Fashion. Beauty. Business. LIM BACK IN TAKING UNLIMITED THE USA NEW YORK SEP 2015 3.1 Phillip Lim The Made in America Givenchy hits New No. 1 marks 10 years as a movement is now York Fashion Week force in advanced a core part of fashion with a new store — contemporary. brands’ strategy. and big show. Features p. 48 Markets p. 26 Fashion p. 12 PURE PLAY “Business affords creative, but creative creates businesses.” businesses.” creates but creative creative, “Business affords Nature is blooming all over again PURE for beauty brands. PHILLIP LIM PLAY US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Donna Heiderstadt SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE SENIOR EDITORS, FINANCIAL Arnold J. Karr, Vicki M. Young ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lorna Koski BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis Phillip Lim in his SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Bobbi Queen Hudson Street ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine studio. SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton BEAUTY EDITOR SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale SENIOR ACCESSORIES EDITOR Roxanne Robinson SENIOR MARKET EDITOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITORS Taylor Harris, Erik Maza MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes MARKET EDITORS FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt ACCESSORIES Lauren McCarthy, Misty White Sidell BEAUTY Molly Prior DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR, Bobbi Queen FURS & INNERWEAR FASHION READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Ally Betker, Leigh Nordstrom The Features CORRESPONDENTS LONDON Nina Jones LONDON, EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lorelei Marfil LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra 3.1 + 10 = Au Naturale NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, 54 The naturals category in Kelsi Zimmerman Winning Equation Ellen Thomas beauty is booming, as a new NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Ashley Davis, 48 With a blend of cautious Kayana Cordwell generation of brands deliver PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil creativity and calculated cool, PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher on the promise of combining PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich partners Phillip Lim and Wen PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke efficacy, luxury and good-for- REPORTER, NEWS Zhou have built a brand that’s PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB ASSISTANT Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant you ingredients. WEB EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault at the forefront of advanced SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell contemporary fashion. DESIGN DEPARTMENT CREATIVE DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski ART DIRECTOR Geraldson Chua SENIOR DESIGNER Christa Guerra DESIGNER Robyn Boehler DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown PHOTO STUDIO PHOTO STUDIO MANAGER Eileen Tsuji PHOTO STUDIO ASSISTANT Emily Taylor PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Thomas Iannaccone COPYDESK COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, Maxine Wally PREPRESS PRODUCTION DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin WWD.COM SITE DIRECTOR Michelle Preli ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Ryan Richmond WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Pooja Bhaskar PUBLIC RELATIONS PR COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni Photograph by MARK MANN Contents Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER ADVERTISING ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Shannon Fitzgerald SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Joanna Block CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 Swimwear from Ralph Lauren Purple Label ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles Swimming is optional with the latest wave of CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti indie swim brands, which are injecting the AUDIENCE MARKETING VP & SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Ellen Dealy market with energetic graphics and colors. CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker , page 38 & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch PRODUCTION PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley Agenda PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao SUMMITS & EVENTS VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger Fashion 12 Accessories 34 EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher Givenchy shakes things up . Key trends and hot sellers for back- DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle New happenings and events for to-school . Accessories Briefs DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert New York Fashion Week . EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING Fashion Briefs FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC Stephanie George PRESIDENT AND VICE CHAIRMAN Beauty 20 Retail 36 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR Diptyque is expanding from a Plenty of players are ready to OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT candle concern into a full-fledged resuscitate beat-up retail names FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer lifestyle company . Smell Test . Retail Briefs DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson . Sofia Vergara’s latest fragrance . Beauty Briefs WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC ARE DIVISIONS OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION Jay Penske Markets 26 38 CHAIRMAN & CEO Made in America finds a retail A few independent swim labels are VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne path . Previews of Milano Unica, stirring up the surf with fashion EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar Texworld and Première Vision customers . Gant embarks on a STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, Paul Woolnough trade shows . Market Briefs major rebranding campaign in the BUSINESS AFFAIRS States . M Briefs SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene SVP HUMAN RESOURCES DEPARTMENTS VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West 10 Social Studies 62 They Are Wearing VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen The best and worst in social media, what’s Stockholm’s best-dressed residents have a distinct DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion trending, whom to follow. style that’s both edgy and understandable. DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Joni Antonacci CONTROLLER Young Ko SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGERS Christina Yeoh, 44 Eye 64 Remember Derek Ramsey DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko • Parties Closing out the summer at the Hampton Author Andrew Wilson tells Alexander McQueen’s DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus Classic. story . Annette Worsley-Taylor’s legacy. DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, • Arts & Culture Cartoonist Marisa Acocella & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson Marchetto has a new book, “Ann Tenna: A Novel,” 66 Finale SENIOR IT ANALYSTS Carl Foner Aramis Miranda-Reyes a satire on the excesses of social media. Piecing It Together: The creative process of digital IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber • Report Card Who got top grades at the VMAs? artist Rosanna Webster. Fred Baez TO CONTACT WWD 60 Think Tank EDITORIAL +1-212-256-8130 Executive search consultant Lewis Alexander ADVERTISING +1-212-256-8102 decodes the business behind luxury denim’s key CIRCULATION +1-515-237-3650 players: Dior Homme, Louis Vuitton, Tom Ford ON THE COVER: Digital collage by Rosanna Webster. and Prada. PHOTOGRAPH BY NYRA LANG 8 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Social Studies EDITED BY KRISTEN TAUER THE WEEK IN SOCIAL MEDIA Best Worst “can you see this?” Sheer pantyhose in the summertime — what If this is where wearable technology is going, did she expect? we’ll take Google Glass instead. @ladygaga @hoodbyair Lady Gaga, singer Hood by Air, fashion brand “The 2nd week of studies at Central St Martin begins. Intense, exciting, serious and fun all the same time.” Antonio Banderas shared his back-to-school look. @antoniobanderasoficial Antonio Banderas, actor “My Clique and right hand @alexandrat-