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Trastevere & Gianicolo (PDF Chapter) Edition 9th Edition, Jan 2016 Pages 22 COVERAGE INCLUDES: Page Range 158–170, 214–222 • Neighbourhood Top • Sleeping Five Useful Links • Local Life Want more guides? • Getting There & Head to our shop Away Trouble with your PDF? • Sights Trouble shoot here • Eating Need more help? • Drinking & Nightlife Head to our FAQs • Entertainment Stay in touch • Shopping Contact us here

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 158

Trastevere & Gianicolo

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Discovering the Piazza 3 Visiting the nuns’ choir 5 Enjoying the breathtak- di Santa Maria in Traste- of di Santa Cecilia ingly beautiful, vere and visiting its beauti- in Trastevere (p164) to see (p163), with ful church (p160), with the Cavallini . interior decor by . its exquisite interior and 4 Feeling as if you’re soar- exterior mosaics. ing over Rome: the views 2 Bar-hopping and from Gianicolo Hill (p161). people-watching at local haunts such as Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà’ (p168).

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a d n 00000 ti c 00000 a r go Asci 00000 rt 000ar an 00000o en 000L gh 00000P Av Me i 000 00000 t 000 00000 g ia 000 00000 000L V 000 00000 000 000 000 AVENTINO 000 000 For more detail of this area see Map p316 A 159 Lonely Planet’s Explore: Trastevere & Gianicolo Top Tip Trastevere is one of Rome’s most vivacious neighbour- Visit Santa Cecilia between hoods, an outdoor circus of ochre palazzi, ivy-clad fa- 10am and 2.30pm Monday cades and photogenic cobblestoned lanes, peopled with to Saturday, so that you can a bohemian and eclectic cast of tourists, travellers, gain entrance to the hushed students and street hawkers. The bohos and original convent next door to see the Tras Romans might be increasingly rubbing shoulders with Cavallini fresco. wealthy expats and American students from the local &t evere Gianicolo , as rental prices in this most be- guiling district go through the roof, but Trastevere still 5 Best Places clings onto its distinct, Roman character. The very name to Eat means ‘across the ’ (tras tevere), emphasising the sense of difference. ¨¨Glass Hostaria (p168) The area is ideal for aimless, contented wandering, ¨¨La Gensola (p163) home cooking in local trattorias and an evening drink ¨¨Pianostrada Laboratorio to watch the world go by: it buzzes after dark, especial- di Cucina (p165) ly on summer evenings. There are also some beautiful ¨

¨Fatamorgana (p164)  sights here: glittering Basilica di Santa Maria is one of Rome’s most charming churches, Villa Farnesina is the For reviews, see p163.A most breathtaking frescoed mansion you’re ever likely to see (home decor by Raphael and others), and exquisitely frescoed Palazzo Corsini is home to a dazzling, almost 6 Best Places forgotten-feeling art collection. Close by is its former to Drink park, now botanical gardens, and you can hike up Gi- ¨¨Ma Che Siete Venuti anicolo (Janiculum Hill) to see Rome laid out before you a Fà (p168) like a -punctuated patchwork. Don’t neglect to see ¨¨Ombre Rosse (p169) Bramante’s perfect little Tempietto on your way up. To ¨¨Freni e Frizioni (p169) the east, Basilica di Santa Cecilia is the resting place of ¨¨Bar San Calisto (p168) Santa Cecilia, patron saint of music, with a wonderful, hidden Cavallini fresco. For reviews, see p168.A

Local Life 1 Best Works ¨Drinking A coffee or a sambuca con la mosca (‘with of Art a fly’; sambucca with a coffee bean) at Bar San Calisto ¨¨Basilica di Santa Maria in (p168). Trastevere (p160) ¨Passeggiata An evening stroll to see and be seen, ¨¨Stefano Maderno’s with a stop for an ice cream. sculpture in Santa Cecilia in ¨Football Trastevere is a Roma supporters’ stronghold: Trastevere (p164) come a big game, the air of excitement is palpable. ¨¨Frescoes in Villa Farne- sina (p163) ¨¨Caravaggios in Galleria Getting There & Away Nazionale d’Arte Antica di ¨Tram From tram 8 runs Palazzo Corsini (p161) along the main drag of Viale di Trastevere, ending up at For reviews, see p160.A Villa Doria Pamphilj. Tram 3 also stops at the southern end of Viale Trastevere, connecting with (Via Marmorata), Colosseo, San Giovanni and Villa Borghese. ¨Bus From Termini, bus H runs to Viale di Trastevere, while the 780 runs from . For Gianicolo, if you don’t fancy the steep steps from Via G Mameli, take bus 870 from Piazza delle Rovere. BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE SALVATOR BARKI / GETTY IMAGES © This glittering church is said to be the oldest church DON’T MISS… in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Its facade is decorated with a beautiful medieval mosaic depicting ¨¨Facade mosaics Mary feeding Jesus surrounded by 10 women bearing ¨¨The 13th-century lamps. Two are veiled and hold extinguished lamps, ­Cavallini mosaics in symbolising widowhood, while the lit lamps of the the apse others represent their virginity. ¨¨Ancient Roman The church was first constructed in the early 3rd cen- granite columns tury over the spot where, according to legend, a fountain of oil miraculously sprang from the ground. Its current Romanesque form is the result of a 12th-century revamp. PRACTICALITIES The portico was added by in 1702, with its ¨¨Map p316 balustrade decorated by four popes. ¨¨Piazza Santa Maria Inside it’s the golden 12th-century mosaics that stand in Trastevere out. In the apse, look out for the dazzling depiction of Christ and his mother flanked by various saints and, on ¨¨h7.30am-9pm the far left, Pope Innocent II holding a model of the church. ¨¨gViale di Trastevere, Beneath this is a series of six mosaics by jViale di Trastevere (c 1291) illustrating the life of the Virgin. Note the 21 Roman columns, some plundered from the Terme di , the wooden ceiling designed in 1617 by Domenichino and, on the right of the altar, a spiralling Cosmati candlestick, on the exact spot where the oil fountain is said to have sprung. The Cappella Avila is also worth a look for its stunning 17th-century dome. The spiralling floor was relaid in the 1870s, a re-creation of the 13th- century original. 161 1 SIGHTS Fuga, in grand Versailles style, and houses part of ’s national art collection. The Trastevere is dotted with exquisite highlights include Caravaggio’s mesmer- churches and artworks, yet some of its ising San Giovanni Battista (St John the most memorable sights are picturesque Baptist), Guido Reni’s unnerving Salome glimpses down narrow, ochre-and- con la Testa di San Giovanni Battista (Sa- orange-shaded lanes. To the north of lome with the Head of John the Baptist), Tras Trastevere are the slopes of Gianicolo. and Fra Angelico’s Corsini Triptych, plus Today a tranquil and leafy area, it’s works by Rubens, Poussin and Van Dyck. difficult to imagine that in 1849 this was &t evere Gianicolo the scene of fierce and bloody fighting. PIAZZA SANTA MARIA A makeshift army under Giuseppe IN TRASTEVERE PIAZZA Garibaldi defended Rome against French Map p316 (gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Traste- troops sent to restore papal rule. vere) Trastevere’s focal square is a prime people-watching spot. By day it’s full of mums with strollers, chatting locals and 1 East of Viale di guidebook-toting tourists; by night it’s the Trastevere domain of foreign students, young Romans

and out-of-towners, all out for a good time. S

CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO The fountain in the centre of the square is ights D’ASSISI A CHURCH of Roman origin and was restored by Carlo Map p316 (Piazza di San Francesco d’Assisi 88; Fontana in 1692. h7.30am-noon & 2-7.30pm; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) St Francis is said to have IN TRASTEVERE MUSEUM stayed here in the 13th century, and you can Map p316 (%06 820 59 127; www.museodiro- still see the rock that he used as a pillow and maintrastevere.it; Piazza Sant’Egidio 1b; adult/ his crucifix in his cell. Rebuilt several times, reduced/child €8.50/7.50/free; h10am-8pm Tue- the church’s current incarnation dates from Sun; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) the 1680s. It contains one of Bernini’s most Housed in a 17th-century Carmelite con- daring works, the Beata vent, this museum hosts excellent tempo- (Blessed Ludovica Albertoni; 1674), a work rary photography exhibitions. Upstairs, the of highly charged sexual ambiguity. permanent collection contains a selection of It shows Ludovica, a Franciscan nun, in 19th-century watercolours depicting Rome, a state of rapture as she reclines, eyes shut, life-size dioramas showing 19th-century mouth open, one hand touching her breast. Roman life, temporary Rome-related exhi- The 17th-century church also contains the bitions, and Stanza di Trilussa, an instal- impressive 18th-century Rospigliosi and lation relating to the famous Roman poet. Pallavici sculptural monuments. MONUMENT Map p316 (gLungotevere della Farnesina, Pi- 1 West of Viale di azza Trilussa) Resembling a crenellated keep, Porta Settimiana marks the start of Via Trastevere della Lungara, the 16th-century road that BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA IN connects Trastevere with the . It was TRASTEVERE BASILICA built in 1498 by Pope Alexander VI over a See p160. small passageway in the Wall and later altered by Pope Pius VI in 1798. GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE From Porta Settimiana, Via Santa Dorotea ANTICA DI PALAZZO CORSINI GALLERY leads to Piazza Trilussa, a popular evening Map p316 (%06 6880 2323; www.galleriacorsini. hang-out with local youth, and Sisto, beniculturali.it; 10; adult/re- which connects with the ­ . duced €5/2.50, incl €9/4.50; h8.30am-7.30pm Wed-Mon; gLgt della Farnesi- na, jViale di Trastevere) Once home to Queen 1 Gianicolo Christina of Sweden, whose richly frescoed bedroom witnessed a stready stream of GIANICOLO HILL HILL male and female lovers, 16th-century Palaz- Gianicolo (Janiculum) is dotted with monu- zo Corsini was designed by Ferdinando ments to Garibaldi and his army, who 162 fought the French on this spot in 1849. The TEMPIETTO DI BRAMANTE & CHIESA Italian hero is commemorated with a mas- DI SAN PIETRO IN MONTORIO CHURCH sive monument in Piazzale Giuseppe Gari- Map p316 (www.sanpietroinmontorio.it; Piazza baldi, while his Brazilian-born wife, Anita, San Pietro in Montorio 2; hChiesa 8.30am-noon has her own equestrian monument about & 3-4pm Mon-Fri, Tempietto 9.30am-12.30pm & 200m away in Piazzale Anita Garibaldi; she 2-4.30pm Tue-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat; gVia Garibaldi)

Tras died from shortly after the siege, Considered the first great building of the together with their unborn child. High Renaissance, Bramante’s sublime The Gianicolo is a superb viewpoint, with Tempietto (Little Temple; 1508) is a per- evere &t evere Gianicolo sweeping panoramas over Rome’s rooftops, fect surprise, squeezed into the courtyard and has several summer-only bars that are of the Chiesa di San Pietro in Montorio, on blessed with thrilling views. There are also the spot where St Peter is said to have been regular children’s puppet shows on the hill, crucified. Small, but perfectly formed, the a long-standing tradition. church has a classically inspired design and ideal proportions that epitomise the Renais- ORTO BOTANICO GARDENS sance zeitgeist. Map p316 (%06 499 17 107; Largo Cristina di Sve- It has a circular interior surrounded by zia 24; adult/reduced €8/4; h9am-6.30pm Mon- 16 columns and topped by a classical frieze,

Sat Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar; gLungotevere S elegant balustrade and dome. More than a ights della Farnesina, Piazza Trilussa) Formerly the century later, in 1628, Bernini added a stair- private grounds of Palazzo Corsini, Rome’s case. Bernini also contributed a chapel to 12-hectare botanical gardens are a little- the adjacent church, the last resting place known, slightly neglected-feeling gem and of Beatrice Cenci, an Italian noblewoman a great place to unwind in a tree-shaded who helped murder her abusive father in expanse covering the steep slopes of the the 16th century, and subsequently was Gianicolo, though the admission charge is tried and beheaded on Ponte Sant’Angelo. unfortunately also a bit steep. Plants have It’s quite a climb uphill, but you’re re- been cultivated here since the 13th century. warded by the views. To cheat, take bus However, in their present form, the gar- 870 from Via Paola just off Corso Vittorio dens were established in 1883, when the Eman­uele II near the Tiber. grounds of Palazzo Corsini were given to the University of Rome. They now contain FONTANA DELL’ACQUA PAOLA FOUNTAIN up to 8000 species, including some of Eu- Map p316 (Via Garibaldi; gVia Garibaldi) Just rope’s rarest plants. There are also various up from the Chiesa di San Pietro in Mon- architectural delights, including the Scali- torio, this monumental white fountain was neta delle Undici Fontane (Staircase of 11 built in 1612 to celebrate the restoration of Fountains) designed by Ferdinando Fuga, a 2nd-century aqueduct that supplied (and who was also responsible for the Palazzo still supplies) water from Lago di Brac- Corsini and the loggia at Santa Maria in ciano, 35km to the north of Rome. Four of Maggiore (p143). the fountain’s six pink-stone columns came from the facade of the old St Peter’s Basili- ca, while much of the marble was pillaged from the . Originally the GIANICOLO CANNON fountain had five small basins, but these If you’re meandering through were replaced by a large granite basin, add- ­Trastevere, or further afield, and hear ed by Carlo Fontana, in 1690. a loud crack, panic not, it’s just the PARK midday cannon salute from the top VILLA DORIA PAMPHILJ h g of the Gianicolo. In 1847 Pope Pius IX ( sunrise-sunset; Via di ) ordered that a cannon fire blank shells Rome’s largest park is Rome’s favourite at this time daily to set a standard place to escape the city noise and bustle. for all the city’s bells. Since 1904 it’s Once a vast private estate, it was laid out been shot from the Gianicolo, as it’s around 1650 for Prince Camillo Pamphilj, a little less disturbing from there, but nephew of Pope Innocent X. It’s a huge it can still be heard across the city. It expanse of rolling parkland, shaded by wasn’t fired during the World Wars, but Rome’s distinctive pines. At its ­recommenced in 1959. centre is the prince’s summer residence, the Casino del Belrespiro, and its manicured 163

VILLA FARNESINA

Serenely and symmetrically proportioned on the out- DON’T MISS… side, this 16th-century villa’s interior is fantastically

frescoed. ¨¨Frescoes by Sebas- Tras Villa Farnesina was built for Agostino Chigi, the im- tiano del Piombo ¨¨ mensely wealthy papal banker. At his banquets he’d en- Raphael-attributed &t evere Gianicolo courage his guests to throw their solid gold plates out of loggia decoration the window once they’d finished (servants would stand ¨¨Peruzzi’s panora- beneath the windows to catch them in nets). The house mas in the Salone was bought by Cardinal Alessando Farnese in 1577. delle Prospettive The architect was Baldassare Peruzzi, formerly Bra- mante’s assistant; he also painted several of the fres- PRACTICALITIES coes. On the ground floor is the Loggia of Galatea, at- tributed to Raphael and depicting a sea nymph, with the ¨¨Map p316 frescoed by Peruzzi, and mythological scenes by ¨¨www.villafarnesina.it

Sebastiano del Piombio. Next door, the Loggia of Cupid E ¨¨Via della Lungara ating and Psyche was also frescoed by Raphael and seethes 230 with naked figures and muscular cupids. ¨¨adult/reduced €6/5 On the 1st floor, Peruzzi’s frescoes in the Salone ¨¨h9am-2pm, to 5pm delle Prospettive are a superb illusionary perspective 2nd Sun of month of a panorama of 16th-century Rome, while Chigi’s ¨¨gLgt della Farne- bedchamber is filled with cavorting cherubs, gods and sina, jViale di goddesses. Trastevere

gardens and citrus trees. It’s now used for DA ENZO TRATTORIA € official government functions. Map p316 (%06 5812 260; www.daenzoal29.com; Via dei Vascellari 29; meals €25; hMon-Sat; gVi- ale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) This snug 5 EATING dining room serves up seasonally based Ro- man meals, such as spaghetti with clams Picturesque Trastevere is packed with and mussels or grilled lamb cutlets. There’s restaurants, trattorias, cafes and a tiny terrace on the quintessential Traste- pizzerias. The better places dot the side vere cobbled street. streets, and it pays to be selective, as many are bog-standard tourist traps. PANATTONI PIZZA € But there are not just tourists here – Map p316 (%06 580 09 19; Viale di Trastevere 53; Romans like to eat in Trastevere too. pizzas €6.50-9; h6.30pm-1am Thu-Tue; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) Known as ‘ai Marmi’, Panattoni is also nicknamed 5 East of Viale di l’obitorio (the morgue) because of its marble-slab tabletops. Thankfully the simi- Trastevere larity stops there. This is one of Trastevere’s INNOCENTI BAKERY € liveliest pizzerias, with paper-thin pizzas, Map p316 (%06 580 39 26; Via delle Luce 21; a clattering buzz, testy waiters, street-side h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-2pm Sun; gViale seating and fried starters – specialities are di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) It’s at re­ supplì (rice balls) and baccalà (cod). assuring spots like this that you can feel o that the world never changes, in some cor- LA GENSOLA SICILIAN €€ ners at least. Here you can buy light-as-air Map p316 (%06 581 63 12; Piazza della Gensola 15; crostata, and stock up on biscuits such as meals €45; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11.30pm, closed brutti ma buoni (ugly but good). Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) This tranquil, classy yet 164 unpretentious trattoria thrills foodies with delicious food that has a Sicilian slant and 5 West of Viale di emphasis on seafood, including an excellent tuna tartare, linguine with fresh anchovies Trastevere and divine zuccherini (tiny fish) with fresh oFATAMORGANA – mint. TRASTEVERE GELATERIA €

Tras Map p316 (Via Roma Libera 11, Piazza San Cosi- LE MANI IN PASTA RISTORANTE €€ mato; cones & tubs from €2; hnoon-midnight Map p316 (%06 581 60 17; Via dei Genovesi 37; summer, to 10.30pm winter; gViale di Trastevere, evere &t evere Gianicolo meals €35; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun; jViale di Trastevere) One of several Fatamor- gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) Pop- gana outlets across Rome, this is one of the ular and lively, this rustic, snug place has finest among the city’s gourmet gelatarie. arched ceilings and an open kitchen that Quality natural ingredients are used to serves up delicious fresh pasta dishes such produce creative flavour combos such as as fettucine con ricotta e pancetta. The pineapple and ginger or pear and gorgon- grilled meats are great, too. zola. Gluten-free.

DA TEO TRATTORIA €€ DA CORRADO ROMAN € % Map p316 ( 06 581 8385; Piazza dei Ponziani 7; Map p316 (Via della Pelliccia 39; meals €25;

E

ating meals around €30; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11.30pm h12.30-2.30pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat; gViale di Mon-Sat; jViale di Trastevere) Tucked away on Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) Don’t expect the quieter side of Trastevere, Da Teo gets refined service or a fancy interior. This is packed out with locals dining on its steam- a proper old-school Roman trattoria, with ing platefuls of Roman standards, such as no outdoor seating, but an unfussy, rough- cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) or fried and-ready atmosphere. It’s packed with lo- lambchops. It’s great to eat out on the small cals, feasting on hearty Roman soul food, piazza when the weather suits. Make sure such as amatriciana (pasta with bacon and you book. tomato sauce).

BASILICA DI SANTA CECILIA IN TRASTEVERE

This church, with its remarkable frescoes by Pietro DON’T MISS… Cavallini, and ancient Roman excavations, is the last resting place of St Cecilia, the patron saint of music. The ¨¨Cavallini’s Last centrepiece is Stefano Maderno’s delicate sculpture, Judgment fresco showing how her miraculously preserved body was ap- ¨¨Maderno’s sculpture­ parently found when it was unearthed in the Catacombe ¨¨Excavated buildings di San Callisto in 1599. This basilica stands on the site of a 5th-century PRACTICALITIES church, itself built over the ancient Roman house where it’s believed Cecilia was martyred in AD 230. You can ¨¨Map p316 visit the network of excavated houses that lie beneath ¨¨Piazza di Santa the church. Cecilia In the right-hand nave the Cappella del Caldarium, ¨¨fresco €2.50, crypt complete with two works by Guido Reni, marks the spot €2.50 where the saint was allegedly tortured. ¨¨hbasilica & But the Basilica’s hidden wonder is Cavallini’s spec- crypt 9.30am-1pm tacular 13th-century fresco, showing a section of his & 4-7.15pm, fresco Last Judgment, in the nun’s choir. Much of this late- 10am-2.30pm Mon- medieval masterwork was lost during the 18th-century Sat remodelling of the church, but what remains gives an idea of its splendour. ¨¨gViale di Traste- vere, jViale di Trastevere 165 DA AUGUSTO TRATTORIA € Map p316 (%06 580 37 98; Piazza de’ Renzi 15; GRATTACHECCA meals €25; h12.30-3pm & 8-11pm; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) For a Traste- It’s summertime, the living is easy, and vere feast, plonk yourself at one of Augus- Romans like nothing better in the sul- to’s rickety tables, either inside or out on try evening heat than to amble down

the small piazza, and prepare to enjoy some to the river and partake of some grat- Tras mamma-style cooking. The gruff wait- tachecca (crushed ice covered in fruit ers dish out hearty platefuls of rigatoni and syrup). It’s the ideal way to cool all’amatriciana and stracciatella (clear down and there are kiosks along the &t evere Gianicolo broth with egg and Parmesan) among a riverbank satisfying this very Roman host of Roman classics. Be prepared to need; try Sora Mirella Caffè (Map queue. Cash only. p316; grattachecca €3-6; h11am-3am May-Sep), next to Ponte Cestio. CIURI CIURI SICILIAN € Map p316 (%06 9521 6082; www.ciuri-ciuri. it; Piazza San Cosimato 49b; snacks around Sun & Mon; gPiazza Trilussa) The wood-fired €3; h10.30am-midnight; gViale di Trastevere, ovens at this historical Trastevere bakery

jViale di Trastevere) have been going for decades, producing a

A splendid Sicilian cafe E selling cakes (the cannoli – pastry tubes of delicious daily batch of pizza, bread and ating ricotta – are filled for you then and there), biscuits. Piled-high toppings (and fillings) and creamy artisanal ice cream. vary seasonally. It’s popular with everyone from skinheads with big dogs to elderly la- FIOR DI LUNA GELATERIA € dies with little dogs. Map p316 (%06 6456 1314; Via della Lungaretta 96; gelato from €1.70; hnoon-12.30am Tue-Sun; DA OLINDO TRATTORIA € gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) This Map p316 (%06 581 88 35; Vicolo della Scala busy little hub serves up handmade gelato 8; meals €25; h7.30-11pm Mon-Sat; jViale di and sorbet – it’s made in small batches and Trastevere) This is your classic family affair: only uses natural, seasonal ingredients, the menu is short, cuisine robust, portions such as hazelnuts from Tonda and pista- huge, and the atmosphere lively. Expect bac- chios from Bronte. Cones are not available, calà con patate (salted cod and potatoes) on as they’d detract from the taste. They make Fridays and gnocchi on Thursdays, but other a few flavours from donkeys’ milk. dishes – such as coniglio all cacciatore (rab- bit, hunter-style) or polpette al sugo (meat- PIZZERIA IVO PIZZA € balls in sauce) – whichever day you like. Map p316 (%06 581 70 82; Via di San Francesco a Ripa 158; pizzas from €7; h7pm-midnight Wed- PIANOSTRADA LABORATORIO Mon; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) DI CUCINA ITALIAN € One of Trastevere’s most famous pizzerias, Map p316 (Vicolo del Cedro; meals €25; h1-4pm Ivo’s has been slinging pizzas for some 40 & 7.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun; gPiazza Trilussa) A years, and still the hungry come. With the diminutive, tucked-away place, this all- TV on in the corner and the tables full (a female-run foodie stop has been attracting few outside on the cobblestoned street), Ivo attention with its delicious meals such as is a noisy and vibrant place, and the waiters parmigiana with aubergine and pumpkin, fit the gruff-and-fast stereotype. meatballs, burgers, pasta with swordfish and wild fennel, and gourmet sandwiches. OLD BRIDGE GELATERIA It’s all exquisitely made and conceived, so Map p316 (Via Della Scala 70; gelato from €2; squeeze in along the bar or take one of the hnoon-2am; gPiazza Trilussa) The artisanal tiny tables with barstools. gelataria Old Bridge has been keeping punt- ers near the Vatican happy for over 25 years, SISINI PIZZA € and have now opened this Trastevere outlet, Map p316 (Via di San Francesco a Ripa 137; pizza offering large scoops of creamy gelato. & pasta from €3, supplì €1.20; h9am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug; gViale di Trastevere, jVi- FORNO LA RENELLA BAKERY € ale di Trastevere) Locals love this fast-food Map p316 (%06 581 72 65; Via del Moro 15-16; piz- takeaway joint (the sign outside says ‘Sup- za slices from €2.50; h7am-2am Tue-Sat, to 10pm plì’), serving up fresh pizza al taglio and ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 166

Rome Street Life

As in many sunny countries, much of life character of the piazza changes towards in Rome is played out on the street. In the the evening when its bars become busy, morning, you can watch the city slowly taking over corners of the square. wake up. Shop shutters are cranked Pedestrianised Via del Pigneto (p171), open, rubbish collectors do the rounds, to Rome’s northeast, follows a similar restaurants set out their tables: Rome is trajectory: market in the morning, bars readying itself for its close-up. and cafes creating a party atmosphere in the evening. In the historic centre, locals and tourists gather to rest and people- Day to Night watch on the (p113), but During the next phase, the fruit and veg these empty as night falls. markets in every rione (neighbourhood) Day or evening, the stadium-sized will swell with people, with a pre­ (p84) ebbs and flows with dominance of matriarchs wielding people-watching entertainment, with grocery trolleys and showing a reckless hawkers, caricaturists and occasional disregard for queuing. street performers. Throughout the day, people come and go on Rome’s piazzas and public spaces. La Passeggiata In Campo de’ Fiori (p90), there’s a busy In the early evening, the passeggiata food market during the day, then the (an early evening stroll) is an important 167 LONELY PLANET / GETTY IMAGES © RACHEL LEWIS / GETTY IMAGES ©

Dinner in the centro

1. IZZET KERIBAR / GETTY IMAGES © storico (p70) 2. Daily market, Campo de’ Fiori (p78) 3. Portrait artist in Piazza Navona (p74)

part of Roman life, as it is elsewhere in Many people out on the stroll will opt, Italy. Locals will usually dress up before instead of paying €6 or so to sit and drink heading out. Like many other parts of at a bar, to stop for a more affordable everyday life, such as coffee-drinking, gelato, which they can eat on their way. Italians have elevated a seemingly simple In summer, you’ll see lots of people practice into something special. enjoying grattachecca – flavoured, crushed Romans will usually head to the ice – along the banks of the Tiber. area that’s most convenient for them. The bella figura (‘beautiful figure’, Trastevere (p181) tends to be a broader better explained as ‘keeping up mix of tourists and young people. Villa appearances’) is important here, and the Borghese (p225) and the Pincio Hill passeggiata is as much about checking Gardens (p118) attract more families everyone else out as it is about enjoying and are more tranquil. is the atmosphere. The passeggiata reaches popular among younger window-shoppers, its height in summer, as 5pm or 6pm while Rome’s smartest shopping strip, Via is when the heat of the day subsides. dei Condotti (p119), attracts a mix of ages. There’s not much else to do, so why not In summer, there’s the Lungo il Tevere head out into the street? festival (p26) on Isola Tiberina, and stalls along the riverside create a new area for early evening wanders. 168 different pasta and risotto dishes served in old-school restaurant set in a 17th-century plastic boxes. It’s also worth sampling the building with tables on a small piazza, Par- supplì (fried rice balls), and roast chicken. is – named for its founder, not the French capital – is the best place outside the Ghetto BIR & FUD PIZZA € to sample Roman-Jewish cuisine. Signature Map p316 (Via Benedetta 23; meals €25; h7.30pm- dishes include gran fritto vegetale con bac- midnight, to 2am Fri & Sat; a; gPiazza Trilussa) Tras calà (deep-fried vegetables with salt cod) This orange-and-terracotta, vaulted, yet and carciofi alla giudia (fried artichoke). contemporary-styled pizzeria wins plaudits evere &t evere Gianicolo for its organic take on pizzas, crostini and fried things (potato, pumpkin etc) and has DRINKING & a microbrewery on site, so serves seasonable 6 tipples such as Birrificio Troll Palanfrina NIGHTLIFE (winter only; made from chestnuts). Trastevere is one of the city’s most VALZANI PASTRIES € popular areas to wander, drink and Map p316 (%06 580 37 92; Via del Moro 37; cakes decide what to do afterwards. It’s €3; h10am-8pm Wed-Sun, 3-8pm Mon & Tue, crowded in summer, with stalls, bars g j spilling into the street and a carnival closed Jul & Aug; Piazza Sonnino, Piazza Son- D rinking nino) The speciality of this glorious, stuck- atmosphere. in-time cake shop, opened in 1925 and not redecorated since, is the legendary torta sacher, the favourite cake of Roman film 6 West of Viale di &N director Nanni Moretti. But there are also Trastevere chocolate-covered mostaccioli (biscuits), ightlife MA CHE SIETE VENUTI A FÀ PUB Roman pangiallo (honey, nuts and dried Map p316 (www.football-pub.com; Via Benedetta fruit – typical for Christmas) and Roman 25; h11am-2am; gPiazza Trilussa) Named af- torrone (nougat). ter a football chant, which translates po- DAR POETA PIZZA € litely as ‘What did you come here for?’, this Map p316 (%06 588 05 16; Vicolo del Bologna 46; pint-sized Trastevere pub is a beer-buff’s meals €25; hnoon-midnight; gPiazza Trilussa) paradise, packing in at least 13 interna- Locals and tourists flock to Dar Poeta for tional craft beers on tap and even more by filling wood-fired pizzas and a buzzing the bottle. atmosphere. As well as the usual selec- BAR SAN CALISTO CAFE tion of pizzas, served with crusts that are Map p316 (%06 589 56 78; Piazza San Calisto 3-5; somewhere between wafer-thin Roman and h6am-1.45am Mon-Sat; gViale di Trastevere, Neapolitan deep pan, it’s also famous for its jViale di Trastevere) Those in the know head trademark ricotta and Nutella calzone. to the down-at-heel ‘Sanca’ for its basic, GLASS HOSTARIA ITALIAN €€€ stuck-in-time atmosphere and cheap prices Map p316 (%06 5833 5903; Vicolo del Cinque 58; (beer €1.50). It attracts everyone from intel- meals €90; h7.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun; gPiazza Tri- lectuals to keeping-it-real Romans, alcohol- lussa) Trastevere’s foremost foodie address, ics and American students. It’s famous for the Glass is a modernist-styled, sophisti- its chocolate – hot with cream in winter, cated setting decorated in warm wood and ice cream in summer. Try the sambuca con contemporary gold, with fabulous cooking la mosca (‘with a fly’ – a raw coffee bean). to match. Chef Cristina Bowerman creates Expect occasional late-night jam sessions. inventive, delicate dishes that combine with DA BIAGIO WINE BAR fresh ingredients and traditional elements Map p316 (www.dabiagio.it; Via della Scala 64; to delight and surprise the palate. There are h10am-1.30pm & 5pm-midnight; gPiazza Son- tasting menus for €75, €80 and €100. nino) With the sign ‘Vini & Olio’ scrawled PARIS RISTORANTE €€€ above the door, this is a hole-in-the-wall Map p316 (%06 581 53 78; www.ristoranteparis. Trastevere institution, lined by bottles of it; Piazza San Calisto 7a; meals €45-55; h7.30- grappa and wine-for-sale, but also offering 11pm Mon, 12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun; wine and spirits by the glass, shots and beer gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) An on tap. The owner is a funny guy, and has 169 been serving up tipples since 1972. In the evening, drinkers spill out on the cobble- 6 Gianicolo stoned Trastevere street. BAR STUZZICHINI BAR FRENI E FRIZIONI BAR Map p316 (Piazzale Giuseppe Garibaldi; h7.30am- Map p316 (%06 4549 7499; www.freniefrizioni. 1am or 2am; gPasseggiata del Gianicolo) This com; Via del Politeama 4-6; h6.30pm-2am; gPi- little kiosk nestles on the top of Gianicolo,

Tras azza Trilussa) This perennially cool Traste- and serves up coffees and drinks, including vere bar is housed in a former mechanic’s cocktails. There are a few tables to perch workshop – hence its name (‘brakes and at and the views are unmatchable. On New &t evere Gianicolo clutches’). It draws a young spritz-loving Year’s Eve it opens all night. crowd that swells onto the small piazza out- side to sip well-priced cocktails (from €7) IL BARRETTO BAR % and to snack on the daily aperitivo (€6 to Map p316 ( 06 5836 5422; Via Garibaldi 27; h g €10; 7pm to 10pm). 6am-2am Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am Sun; Piazza Sonnino, jPiazza Sonnino) Venture a little way OMBRE ROSSE BAR up the Gianicolo, up a steep flight of steps Map p316 (%06 588 41 55; Piazza Sant’Egidio 12; from Trastevere. Go on, it’s worth it: you’ll h g discover this well-kept-secret cocktail bar. 8am-2am Mon-Sat, 11am-2am Sun; Piazza E

Trilussa) A seminal Trastevere hang-out; The basslines are meaty, the bar staff hip, ntertainment grab a table on the terrace and watch the and the interior mixes vintage with pop art. world go by amid a clientele ranging from elderly Italian wide boys to wide-eyed tour- ists. Tunes are slinky and there’s live music 3 ENTERTAINMENT (jazz, blues, world) on Thursday evenings from September to April. BIG MAMA BLUES Map p316 (%06 581 25 51; www.bigmama.it; Vi- BIG STAR BAR colo di San Francesco a Ripa 18; h9pm-1.30am, Map p316 (Via Goffredo Mameli 25; h6pm-2am; shows 10.30pm, closed Jun-Sep; gViale di gViale de Trastevere, jViale de Trastevere) Off Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) Head to this the beaten Trastevere track, this is a cool cramped Trastevere basement for a mellow backstreet bar set away from the main ac- night of Eternal City blues. A long-standing tion, with an alternative feel and its drink venue, it also stages jazz, funk, soul and prices scrawled up on a blackboard. It’s a R&B, as well as popular Italian cover bands. small yet airy interior, where you can drink a wide range of beers and cocktails while LETTERE CAFFÈ GALLERY LIVE MUSIC listening to the hipster DJs, with a laid- Map p316 (%06 9727 0991; www.letterecaffe.org; back, appealing vibe. Vicolo di San Francesco a Ripa 100/101; h7pm- 2am, closed mid-Aug–mid-Sep; gViale di Traste- LA MESCITA WINE BAR vere, jViale di Trastevere) Like books? Poetry? Map p316 (%06 5833 3920; Piazza Trilussa 41; Blues and jazz? Then you’ll love this place h5pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; gPiaz- – a clutter of barstools and books, where za Trilussa) This tiny bar inside the entrance there are regular live gigs, poetry slams, to upmarket restaurant Enoteca Ferrara comedy and gay nights, plus DJ sets play- serves delectable aperitivo and has a wide ing indie and new wave. range of wines by the glass, from €7. Fancy an intimate tête-à-tête, with fine wines and TEATRO VASCELLO THEATRE yummy snacks? This is your place. Map p316 (%06 588 10 21; www.teatrovascello.it; Via Giacinto Carini 72, Monteverde; gVia Giacinto BAR LE CINQUE BAR Carini) Left-field in vibe and location, this Map p316 (Vicolo del Cinque 5; h6.30am-2am independent, fringe theatre stages inter- Mon-Sat; gPiazza Sonnino, jPiazza Sonnino) esting, cutting-edge new work, including There’s no sign outside, and it looks like a avant-garde dance, multimedia events and rundown ordinary bar, but this is a long- works by emerging playwrights. standing Trastevere favourite and it always has a small crowd clustered around out- ALCAZAR CINEMA CINEMA side; they’re here for the pivotal location, Map p316 (%06 588 00 99; Via Merry del Val 14; easygoing vibe and cheap drinks. gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) This 170 old-style cinema with plush red seats oc- OFFICINA DELLA CARTA GIFTS casionally shows films in their original lan- Map p316 (%06 589 55 57; Via Benedetta 26b; guage with Italian subtitles. h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; gPiazza Trilussa) A perfect present pit-stop, this tiny workshop NUOVO SACHER CINEMA produces attractive hand-painted paper- Map p316 (%06 581 81 16; www.sacherfilm.eu; bound boxes, photo albums, recipe books, Largo Ascianghi 1; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Tras notepads, photo frames and diaries. Trastevere) Owned by cult Roman film direc- tor Nanni Moretti, this small cinema with ALMOST CORNER BOOKSHOP BOOKS evere &t evere Gianicolo red-velvet seats is the place to catch the latest Map p316 (%06 583 69 42; Via del Moro 45; European art-house offering, with regular h10am-7.30pm Mon-Thu, 10am-8pm Fri & Sat, screenings of films in their original language. 11am-8pm Sun; gPiazza Trilussa) This is how a bookshop should look: a crammed haven full of rip-roaring reads, with every mil- SHOPPING limetre of wall space containing English- 7 language fiction and nonfiction (including MARKET MARKET children’s) and travel guides. Map p316 (Piazza Porta Portese; h6am-2pm BOOKS g j OPEN DOOR BOOKSHOP S hopping Sun; Viale di Trastevere, Viale di Trastevere) To see another side of Rome, head to this Map p316 (Via della Lungaretta 23; h10am-8pm mammoth flea market. With thousands of Mon-Sat; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Traste- stalls selling everything from rare books vere) This lovely crammed secondhand and fell-off-a-lorry bikes to Peruvian shawls bookshop is a great place to browse and and MP3 players, it’s crazily busy and a lot happen on a classic novel or nonfiction book of fun. Keep your valuables safe and wear in English, Italian, French and Spanish. your haggling hat. LA CRAVATTA SU MISURA ACCESSORIES ROMA-STORE BEAUTY Map p316 (%06 890 69 41; Via di Santa Cecilia Map p316 (%06 581 87 89; Via della Lungaretta 12; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; gViale di Trastevere, 63; h10am-8pm; gViale di Trastevere, jViale jViale di Trastevere) With ties draped over di Trastevere) An enchanting perfume shop the wooden furniture, this inviting shop re- crammed full of deliciously enticing bot- sembles the study of an absent-minded pro- tles of scent, including lots of lesser-known fessor. But don’t be fooled: these guys know brands that will have perfume-lovers prac- their ties. Only the finest Italian silks and tically fainting with joy. English wools are used in neckwear made to customers’ specifications. At a push, a tie ANTICA CACIARA can be ready in a few hours. TRASTEVERINA FOOD, WINE Map p316 (Via San Francesco a Ripa 140; h7am- SCALA QUATTORODICI 2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat; gViale di Trastevere, CLOTHING CLOTHING jViale di Trastevere) The fresh ricotta is a Map p316 (Villa della Scala 13-14; h10am-1.30pm prized possession at this century-old deli, & 4-8pm Tue-Sat, 4-8pm Mon; gPiazza Trilussa) and usually snapped up by lunch. If you’re Make yourself over à la Audrey Hepburn too late, take solace in the famous pecorino with these classically tailored clothes in romano or the burrata pugliese (a creamy beautiful fabrics – either made-to-measure cheese from the Puglia region), or simply or off-the-peg. Pricey (a frock will set you lust after the fragrant hams, bread, Sicilian back €600 plus) but oh so worth it. anchovies and local wines. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 214

Sleeping

From opulent five-star palaces to chic boutique hotels, family-run pensions, B&Bs, hostels and convents, Rome has accommodation to please everyone. But while there’s plenty of choice, rates are universally high and you’ll need to book early to get the best deal.

Pensions & Hotels Rental Accommodation The bulk of Rome’s accommodation consists For longer stays, renting an apartment will of pensioni (pensions) and alberghi (hotels). generally work out cheaper than an extended A pensione is a small, family-run hotel, hotel sojourn. Bank on about €900 per month often in a converted apartment. Rooms are for a studio apartment or one-bedroom flat. usually fairly simple, though most come with For longer stays, you’ll probably have to pay a private bathroom. bills plus a building maintenance charge. Hotels are rated from one to five stars. Most hotels in Rome’s historic centre tend to Seasons & Rates be three-star and up. As a rule, a three-star Rome doesn’t have a low season as such but room will come with a hairdryer, a minibar rates are at their lowest from November to (or fridge), a safe, air-con and wi-fi. Some may March (excluding Christmas and New Year) also have satellite TV. Note that Roman ho- and from mid-July through August. Expect tel rooms tend to be small, especially in the to pay top whack in spring (April to June) centro­ storico and Trastevere, where hotels and autumn (September and October) and are often housed in centuries-old palazzi. over the main holiday periods (Christmas, New Year and Easter). Most midrange and B&Bs & Guesthouses top-end hotels accept credit cards. It’s always Alongside traditional B&Bs, Rome has many best to check in advance. boutique-style guesthouses offering chic ac- commodation at midrange to top-end prices. Accommodation Websites Breakfast in a Roman B&B usually con- ¨Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/italy/ sists of bread rolls, croissants, yoghurt, ham rome/hotels) Consult a list of author-reviewed and cheese. accommodation options and book online. ¨060608 (www.060608.it/en/accoglienza/ Hostels dormire) Official di Roma site with Rome’s hostels cater to everyone from back- accommodation lists. Details are not always packers to budget-minded families. Many offer up to date. hotel-style rooms alongside traditional dorms. ¨Bed & Breakfast Association of Rome Some hostels don’t accept reservations for (www.b-b.rm.it) Lists B&Bs and short-term dorm beds, so it’s first come, first served. apartment rentals. ¨ (www.bbitalia.it) Religious Institutions Bed & Breakfast Italia Rome’s longest-established B&B network. Many of Rome’s religious institutions offer ¨ (www.romeasyoufeel.com) cheap(ish) rooms. These often impose strict Rome As You Feel curfews and are fairly short on frills. Book Apartment rentals, from cheap studio flats well ahead. to luxury apartments. 215 Lonely Planet’s Best for Location NEED TO KNOW Top Choices Albergo Abruzzi (p217) Palm Gallery Hotel (p222) Wake up to the Pantheon. Price Ranges Arty retreat in elegant sur- Casa di Santa Brigida These price ranges roundings. (p217) A convent overlooking are for a high-season

Piazza Farnese. Sleeping 181 (p219) Chic ­double room with private luxury on top shopping street. ­bathroom: Arco del Lauro (p221) Best for € under €110 Minimalist comfort in Trastevere Romance €110 to €200  €€

 .B&B Hotel Sant’Anselmo (p222) €€€ over €200 Villa Spalletti Trivelli (p221) Escape to this beautiful Liberty- Stately style in a city-centre Breakfast is included style villa. mansion. ­unless otherwise stated. Hotel Locarno (p219) Star in your own romance at this Reservations Best by Budget art-deco gem. ¨¨Always try to book ahead, especially for the € major religious festivals. Arco del Lauro (p221) A Best B&Bs ¨¨Ask for a camera cool bolthole in happening ­matrimoniale for a room Trastevere. Maria-Rosa Guesthouse (p221) Your Trastevere home with a double bed; a Althea Inn (p222) Designer from home. camera doppia has twin comfort at budget prices. beds. La Piccola Maison (p218) Beehive (p220) Classy hostel Quiet comfort near Piazza Checking In & Out near Termini. Barberini. ¨¨When you check in you’ll need to present €€ Best Value for your passport or ID card. ¨ Palm Gallery Hotel (p222) A Money ¨Checkout is usually be- delightful villa hotel. tween 10am and noon. In Althea Inn (p222) A hidden hostels it’s around 9am. Residenza Maritti (p216) gem near Testaccio. Welcoming hideaway near the ¨¨Some guesthouses and forums. Le Stanze di Orazio (p219) B&Bs require you to ar- Get your money’s worth at this range a time to check in. Daphne Inn (p218) Boutique Vatican B&B. hotel with superlative service. La Controra (p218) Quality hostel in upscale area. €€€ Babuino 181 (p219) Bask in understated luxury Villa Spalletti Trivelli (p221) Live like country-house nobility 216 Where to Stay

Neighbourhood For Against Ancient Rome Close to major sights such as , Roman Not cheap and has few Forum and ; quiet at night. ­budget options; restaurants are touristy. Sleeping Centro Storico Atmospheric area with everything on your Most expensive part of town; doorstep – Pantheon, Piazza Navona, restau- few budget options; can be rants, bars, shops. noisy.

ANCIENT ROME Tridente, Good for Spanish Steps, and Upmarket area with prices to  & the Quirinale designer shopping; excellent midrange to top- match; subdued after dark. end options; good transport links. , Esquilino Lots of budget accommodation around Stazione Some dodgy streets in & San Lorenzo Termini; top eating options in Monti and good ­Termini area, which is not nightlife in San Lorenzo; good transport links. Rome’s most characterful. San Giovanni Authentic atmosphere with good eating and Few options available; not & Testaccio drinking options; Aventino, a quiet, romantic many big sights. area; Testaccio, a top food and nightlife district. Trastevere & Gorgeous, atmospheric area; party vibe with Very noisy, particularly on Gianicolo hundreds of bars, cafes, and restaurants; some summer nights; expensive. interesting sights. , Near St Peter’s Basilica and ; Expensive near St Peter’s; Borgo & decent range of accommodation; some excel- not much nightlife; sells out lent shops and restaurants; on the metro. quickly for religious holidays. Villa Borghese Largely residential area good for the Auditorium Out of the centre; few budget & Northern and some top museums; generally quiet after choices. Rome dark.

leather bedsteads, hanging lamps, and the 4 Ancient Rome ­occasional art tome.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL oRESIDENZA MARITTI GUESTHOUSE €€ FORTY SEVEN €€€ Map p300 (%06 678 82 33; www.residenzamar- Map p300 (%06 678 78 16; www.fortysevenhotel. itti.com; Via Tor de’ Conti 17; s €50-120, d €80-170, com; Via Petroselli 47; r €170-300; aW; gVia tr €100-190; aW; mCavour) Boasting stun- Petroselli) Near the Bocca della Verità, the ning views over the forums, this gem has plain grey facade of this classy four-star rooms spread over several floors. Some are gives onto a bright modern interior, full of bright and modern, others are more cosy sunshine and sharply designed guest rooms. in feel, with antiques and family furniture. There’s also a rooftop restaurant and, in the There’s no breakfast but you can use a fully basement, a gym and Turkish bath. equipped kitchen. HOTEL FORUM HISTORIC HOTEL €€€ % NERVA BOUTIQUE HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ Map p300 ( 06 679 24 46; www.hotelforum. Map p300 (%06 678 18 35; www.hotelnerva. com; Via Tor de’ Conti 25-30; r €180-350; aW; com; Via Tor de’ Conti 3; s €70-180, d €90-300; mCavour) The stately Forum offers formal aW; mCavour) Fresh from a recent make­ elegance and inspiring views. From the over, this friendly hotel is tucked away be- rooftop restaurant you can survey a sea of hind the Imperial Forums. Its snug rooms ruins, while inside it’s all antiques, wood- display a contemporary look in shades panelling and dangling chandeliers. Rooms of cream, grey and black, with padded are small and classically attired. Parking is available for €40 per day. 217 aW; gCorso del Rinascimento) This small 4 Centro Storico hotel offers a range of handsome, modern rooms in a 15th-century palazzo near Pi- HOTEL PENSIONE BARRETT PENSION € azza Navona. They come in various shapes Map p304 (%06 686 84 81; www.pensionebar- and looks, but the most striking feature a rett.com; Largo di Torre Argentina 47; s €115, d showy silver-and-grey design. Breakfast aW g

€125, tr €150; ; Largo di Torre Argentina) costs €10 extra. Sleeping This charming pension boasts a conveni- ent central location and an exuberant decor HOTEL TEATRO DI POMPEO HOTEL €€ that marries leafy pot plants with statues, Map p304 (%06 6830 0170; www.hotelteatro­ busts and vibrant stucco. Rooms are cosy dipompeo.it; Largo del Pallaro 8; s €90-165, d

€110-220; aiW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) and come with thoughtful extras like foot  CENTRO STORICO spas and fully stocked fridges. Tucked away behind Campo de’ Fiori, this charming hotel sits atop the 1st-century-BC ALBERGO DEL SOLE HOTEL € – the basement break- Map p304 (%06 687 94 46; www.solealbiscione. fast room is actually in the theatre’s ruins. it; Via del Biscione 76; s €70-100, d €100-145, tr Rooms are attractive with classic wooden €120-180; aW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) furniture, terracotta floor tiles, and, in This simple, no-frills place is supposedly some, sloping wood-beamed ceilings. the oldest hotel in Rome, dating to 1462. There’s nothing special about the function- DIMORA DEGLI DEI BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ al rooms, but each floor has its own out- Map p304 (%06 6819 3267; www.pantheondimo- door terrace, and the location near Campo radeglidei.com; Via del Seminario 87; r €80-200; de’ Fiori is excellent. No breakfast. aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) Location and discreet style are the selling points of this ALBERGO CESÀRI HISTORIC HOTEL €€ elegant bolthole near the Pantheon. On Map p304 (%06 674 97 01; www.albergocesari.it; the 1st floor of a centuries-old palazzo, it Via di Pietra 89/A; s €70-150, d €110-250; aW; has six high-ceilinged tastefully furnished gVia del Corso) This friendly three-star has rooms. Breakfast (€10) is optional. been welcoming guests since 1787 and both Stendhal and Mazzini are said to have slept CASA DI SANTA here. Modern visitors can expect tradition- BRIGIDA RELIGIOUS ACCOMMODATION €€ al rooms, a stunning rooftop terrace, and a Map p304 (%06 6889 2596; www.brigidine.org; wonderful central location. 96, entrance Via di Monserrato 54; s/d €120/200; aW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) HOTEL DUE TORRI HOTEL €€ Named after the Swedish St Brigid who died Map p304 (%06 6880 6956; www.hotelduetor- here in 1373, this tranquil convent enjoys a riroma.com; Vicolo del Leonetto 23; s €70-140, d superb location overlooking Piazza Farnese. €110-220, tr €140-240; aW; gVia di Monte Bri- Rooms are simple, clean and decidedly low- anzo) If the rooms at this refined hotel could tech – entertainment here is limited to a pi- talk, they’d have some stories to tell. The ano in the communal room, a small library Due Torri might now be a classically attired and views from the roof terrace. three-star with period furniture and 26 cosy rooms, but in centuries past it housed oHOTEL CAMPO a cardinals’ residence and a brothel. DE’ FIORI BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Map p304 (%06 687 48 86; www.hotelcampodefio- ARGENTINA RESIDENZA BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ ri.com; Via del Biscione 6; r €90-400, apt €80-350; Map p304 (%06 6819 3267; www.argentinares- aiW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) This rak- idenza.com; Via di Torre Argentina 47; r €120-200; ish four-star has got the lot – bou- aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) Escape the doir decor, an enviable location, professional hustle and relax in the comfort of this quiet staff and a fabulous panoramic roof terrace. boutique hotel on Largo di Torre Argentina. The interior feels delightfully decadent with Its six decently sized rooms sport a low-key its boldly coloured walls, low wooden ceil- contemporary look with design touches ings, gilt mirrors and restored bric-a-brac. and elegant furnishings. Also available are 13 apartments.

HOTEL NAVONA HOTEL €€ ALBERGO ABRUZZI HOTEL €€€ Map p304 (%06 6821 1392; www.hotelnavona. Map p304 (%06 679 20 21; www.hotelabruzzi.it; com; Via dei Sediari 8; s €60-170, d €60-260; Piazza della Rotonda 69; d €120-340, tr €150-400, 218 q €180-450; aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) As DAPHNE INN BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ locations go, the Abruzzi’s tops the charts, Map p308 (%06 8745 0086; www.daphne-rome. bang opposite the Pantheon. Its recently com; Via di San Basilio 55; s €115-180, d €130-240, refurbished rooms sport a smart look with ste €190-290, without bathroom s €70-130, d blown-up photos printed on white walls and €90-160; aW; mBarberini) Run by an Amer- dark wood flooring. They are small, though, ican-Italian couple, the Daphne has helpful

Sleeping and late-night noise might be a problem. English-speaking staff and chic, comforta- ble rooms. They come in various shapes and sizes, but the overall look is smart contem- 4 Tridente, Trevi porary. There’s a second branch, Daphne Trevi, at Via degli Avignonesi 20.

TRIDENTE, TREVI & THE QUIRINALE & the Quirinale

oLA CONTRORA HOSTEL € HOTEL SUISSE PENSION €€ (%06 9893 7366; Via Umbria 7; dm €20-40, d Map p308 (%06 678 36 49; www.hotelsuisse- €80-110; aiW; mBarberini, mRepubblica) rome.com; Via Gregoriana 54; s €80-100, d €135- Quality budget accommodation is thin on 170, tr €180-200; iW; mSpagna, mBarberini) the ground in the upmarket area north of An air of old-school elegance pervades at Piazza Repubblica, but this great little hos- this delightful family-run pension. Attrac- tel is a top choice. It has a friendly laid-back tive antique furniture and creaking, pol- vibe, cool staff, double rooms and bright, ished parquet floors set the tone for the 12 airy mixed dorms (for three and four peo- tasteful, modestly decorated rooms. ple), with parquet floors, air-con and pri- vate bathrooms. GREGORIANA HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 679 42 69; www.hotelgregoriana. a HOTEL PANDA PENSION € it; Via Gregoriana 18; s €120-168,d €150-288; ; Map p308 (%06 678 01 79; www.hotelpanda.it; Via mSpagna) This low-key, polished art-deco della Croce 35; s €65-90, d €85-130, tr €120-150, q hotel is fantastically set behind the Span- €160-190; aW; mSpagna) Near the Spanish ish Steps. Beds have beautiful, circular Steps, in an area where a bargain is a Bul- maple-wood headboards, snow-white linen gari watch bought at the sales, the Panda and lots of gleaming rosewood. Staff are flies the flag for budget accommodation. It’s ­friendly and unpretentious. a friendly place with high-ceilinged rooms and simple, tasteful decor. Air-con is free in MARGUTTA GLAMOUR summer, but €6 in other periods. STUDIOS APARTMENT €€ Map p308 (%333 7982702; www.marguttaglam- LA PICCOLA MAISON B&B €€ ourstudios.com; Via Margutta 54-55; apt €150- Map p308 (%06 4201 6331; www.lapiccolamaison. 180; mSpagna) Four charming apartments com; Via dei Cappuccini 30; s €50-180, d €70-270; on one of Rome’s prettiest streets, which aW; mBarberini) The excellent Piccola Mai- has a village feel despite being in the thick son is housed in a 19th-century building in of Tridente. All are decorated with flair, a great location close to Piazza Barberini, and the two larger apartments, in former and has pleasingly plain, neutrally decorated artists’ studios, are spectacular, with dou- rooms and thoughtful staff. It’s a great deal. ble height ceilings; the smaller two are charming, with pretty outlooks.

HOTEL TAX HOTEL MOZART HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 3600 1915; www.hotelmozart. Everyone overnighting in Rome has to com; Via dei Greci 23b; r €140-200; aiW; pay a room-occupancy tax on top of mSpagna) The Mozart has classic, immacu- their regular bill. late rooms, decorated in dove greys, egg- ¨¨€3 per person per night in one- and shell blues, golden yellows and rosy pinks, two-star hotels with comfortable beds, gleaming linen and ¨¨€3.50 in B&Bs and room rentals polished wooden furniture; deluxe rooms ¨¨€4/6/7 in three-/four-/five-star have jacuzzis and small terraces. hotels. It also administers the Vivaldi Luxury Suites and several apartments nearby. Look The tax is applicable for a maximum out for special offers on the website, where of 10 consecutive nights. Prices in rooms can go for as little as €80. reviews do not include the tax. 219 HOTEL BAROCCO HOTEL €€ CROSSING CONDOTTI GUESTHOUSE €€€ Map p308 (%06 487 20 01; www.hotelbarocco. Map p308 (%06 6992 0633; www.crossingcon- com; Piazza Barberini 9; d €160-290; aiW; dotti.com; Via Mario de’ Fiori 28; r €240-470; mBarberini) Very central, this well-run, wel- aW; mSpagna) This is one of Rome’s breed coming 41-room hotel overlooking Piazza of upmarket guesthouses, where all the Barberini (the pricier rooms have views) has fittings, linen and comforts are top of the

a classic feel, with rooms featuring oil paint- range, and the pretty, though not large, Sleeping ings, spotless linen, gentle colour schemes rooms have lots of character and antique and fabric-covered walls. Breakfast is ample furnishings. There’s also a well-stocked and served in a wood-panelled room. kitchen with drinks and a Nespresso ma- chine. The more expensive rooms, recently HOTEL LOCARNO HOTEL €€ added, have walk-in showers and a kitchen- VATICAN CITY, BORGO & PRATI Map p308 (%06 361 08 41; www.hotellocarno. ette, and the top choice has a Turkish bath. com; Via della Penna 22; s €90-260, d €120-270; aiW; mFlaminio) With its ivy-clad exte- HOTEL DE RUSSIE HOTEL €€€ rior, stained-glass doors and rattling cage- Map p308 (%06 32 88 81; www.hotelderussie.it; lift, the Locarno is an art-deco classic – the Via del Babuino 9; d €550-850; ai; mFlaminio) kind of place Hercule Poirot might stay if he The historic de Russie is almost on Piazza were in town. Many rooms have silk wall- del Popolo, and has exquisite terraced gar- paper and period furniture, and are occa- dens. The decor is softly luxurious in many sionally in need of TLC, but full of charm. shades of grey, and the rooms offer state- There’s a roof garden, a restaurant and an of-the-art entertainment systems, massive atmospheric bar. mosaic-tiled bathrooms and all the luxu- ries. There’s a lovely courtyard bar. HOTEL MODIGLIANI HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 4281 5226; www.hotelmodigli- ani.com; Via della Purificazione 42; s €100-160, d 4 Vatican City, Borgo €100-270; aW; mBarberini) Run by an artis- tic couple, the Modigliani is all about atten- & Prati tion to detail and service. The 23 dove-grey HOTEL SAN PIETRINO HOTEL € rooms are spacious and light, and the best Map p312 (%06 370 01 32; www.sanpietrino. ones have views and balconies, either out- it; Via Bettolo 43; s €45-75, d €55-112; aiW; side or over the quiet courtyard garden. mOttaviano–San-Pietro) Within easy walk- ing distance of St Peter’s, family-run San oBABUINO 181 BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Pietrino is an excellent budget choice. Its Map p308 (%06 3229 5295; www.romeluxu- 11 cosy rooms are characterful and prettily rysuites.com/babuino; Via del Babuino 181; r decorated with terracotta-tiled floors and €240-715; aW; mFlaminio) A beautifully the occasional statue. No breakfast. renovated old palazzo, Babuino offers dis- creet luxury, with great attention to detail, COLORS HOTEL HOTEL € a sleek roof terrace and modern, chic rooms Map p312 (%06 687 40 30; www.colorshotel.com; with touches such as a Nespresso machine Via Boezio 31; s €30-90, d €45-122; aW; gVia and fluffy bathrobes. A new annexe across ) Popular with young travellers, the street has added more suites and rooms this welcoming hotel impresses with its that continue the theme of understated el- fresh, artful design and vibrantly coloured egance. The same company runs the simi- rooms. These come in various shapes and larly impressive Margutta 54 (Map p308; sizes, including some cheaper ones with %06 322 95 295; www.romeluxurysuites.com/ shared bathrooms and, from June to Au- margutta/default-en.html; Via Margutta 54; d gust, dorms for guests under 38. Breakfast from €250; mSpagna) and Mario de’ Fiori 37. on request costs €6.50.

CASA FABBRINI B&B €€€ LE STANZE DI ORAZIO B&B €€ Map p308 (%06 324 3706; www.casafabbrini. Map p312 (%06 3265 2474; www.lestanzediorazio. it; Vicolo delle Orsoline 13; r €280; mSpagna) A com; Via Orazio 3; r €85-135; aiW; mLepanto) beautifully styled boutique B&B that could This small boutique B&B is excellent value have sprung from the pages of Elle Deco- for money. It has five bright, playfully ration, with antique doors as bedheads, ­decorated rooms – think shimmering rain- coloured-glass lamps and painted furniture. bow wallpaper, lilac accents, and designer bathrooms – and a small breakfast area. 220 FABIO MASSIMO name only, this pearl offers small, hotel- DESIGN HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ standard rooms, each with its own ensuite Map p312 (%06 321 30 44; www.hotelfabiomas- bathroom, and decorated in tasteful low- simo.com; Viale Giulio Cesare 71; r €89-229; aW; key style – beamed ceilings, wooden floors, mOttaviano-San Pietro) Walkable from Ottavi- French windows, black-and-white framed ano metro station, this sleek design hotel is photos. There’s also an apartment, with

Sleeping convenient as well as stylish. From the 4th- kitchen, that sleeps up to four. No lift and floor reception and breakfast area, corri- no breakfast. dors lead off to nine rooms, each furnished in contemporary reds and slate greys, with WELROME HOTEL HOTEL € flower motifs and hanging lamps. Map p320 (%06 4782 4343; www.welrome.it;

;MONTI, ESQUILINO & SAN LORENZO Via Calatafimi 15-19; d/tr/q €110/148/187; aW  HOTEL BRAMANTE HISTORIC HOTEL €€ mTermini) A small, spotless hotel in a quiet Map p312 (%06 6880 6426; www.hotelbramante. backstreet not far from Termini. Owners com; Vicolo delle Palline 24-25; s €100-160, d Mary and Carlo take great pride in looking €140-240, tr €175-260, q €190-300; aW; gBor- after their guests and will enthusiastically go Sant’Angelo) Nestled under the Vatican­ advise you on where to eat, what to do and walls, the Bramante exudes country- where to avoid. Their seven simply deco- house charm with its cosy internal court- rated rooms are clean and comfortable. No yard, wood-beamed ceilings and antique breakfast but kettles and fridges are pro- ­furniture. It’s housed in the 16th-century vided, and there are plenty of nearby bars building where architect Domenico Fon- for a cornetto (croissant) and coffee. tana once lived. PAPA GERMANO HOTEL € oVILLA LAETITIA BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Map p320 (%06 48 69 19; www.hotelpapa­ (%06 322 67 76; www.villalaetitia.com; Lungote- germano.it; Via Calatafimi 14a; d €50-110, with- vere delle Armi 22; r €200-280, ste €500; aW; out bathroom dm €15-35, s €30-65, d €40-85; gLungotevere delle Armi) Villa Laetitia is a aiW; mTermini) Easygoing and popular, stunning boutique hotel in a riverside art- Papa Germano is a budget stalwart. There nouveau villa. Its 20 rooms, each individu- are various sleeping options, ranging from ally designed by Anna Venturini Fendi of four-person dorms to private rooms with or the famous fashion house, marry modern without bathrooms. It has a family-run feel, design touches with vintage pieces and the decor is plain and fairly smart, and all rare finds, such as an original Picasso in rooms are scrupulously clean. the Garden Room. ALESSANDRO PALACE HOSTEL HOSTEL € Map p320 (%06 446 19 58; www.hostelsalessan- 4 dro.com; Via Vicenza 42; dm €19-35, d €70-110, Monti, Esquilino tr €85-120; aiW; mCastro Pretorio) This & San Lorenzo well-kept favourite offers spick-and-span, oBEEHIVE HOSTEL € terracotta-floored doubles and triples, as Map p320 (%06 4470 4553; www.the-beehive. well as dorms sleeping from four to eight, com; Via Marghera 8; dm €25-35, s €50-80, d all with cheery bedspreads. Every room has €90-100, without bathroom s €60-70, d €70-80, tr its own bathroom with hairdryer. There’s a €95-105; aW; mTermini) S More boutique basement bar, and it runs local tours. chic than backpacker dive, the Beehive HOTEL ARTORIUS HOTEL €€ is Rome’s best hostel; book well ahead. Map p320 (%06 482 11 96; www.hotelartori- There’s a spotless, eight-person mixed dorm usrome.com; Via del Boschetto 13; d €86-140; or six private double rooms, some with air- aiW; mCavour) con. Original artworks and funky modular The art-deco lobby looks furniture add colour, and there’s a cafe. promising, and the rest delivers too in this Some off-site rooms, sharing communal 10-room Monti hotel with a family-run feel. bathrooms and kitchen, are another bar- Rooms are simple and plain – not large, but gain (single €40 to €50, double €60 to €80). perfectly comfortable – and one (room 109) has a terrace. Book well ahead. BLUE HOSTEL HOSTEL € DUCA D’ALBA HOTEL €€ Map p320 (%340 925 85 03; www.bluehostel.it; Map p320 (%06 48 44 71; www.hotelducadalba. Via Carlo Alberto 13, 3rd fl; d €60-150, apt €100- com; Via Leonina 14; r €115-380; aW; mCavour) 180; aW; mVittorio Emanuele) A hostel in 221 This appealing four-star hotel in the Monti aged 12 or younger are welcome) is housed district has small but charming rooms: in a lovely 16th-century convent, close to most have fabric-covered or handpainted the river. It is run by the Casa Internazi- walls, wood-beamed ceilings and big flat- onale delle Donne (International ­Women’s screen TVs. House) and offers safe, well-priced ­accommodation in Trastevere. Reception RESIDENZA CELLINI GUESTHOUSE €€

is open from 7am to 3am. The 13 simple Sleeping Map p320 (%06 4782 5204; www.residenza- rooms sleep two, four, five or eight, and cellini.it; Via Modena 5; s €100-135, d €115-150; some have views onto the internal ­garden. aiW; mRepubblica) With grown-up fur- It’s wheelchair accessible.­ nishings featuring potted palms, polished wood, pale-yellow walls, oil paintings and oARCO DEL LAURO B&B €€ & TRASTEVERE GIANICOLO a hint of chintz, this charming, family-run Map p316 (%346 2443212, 9am-2pm 06 9784 place on a quiet road parallel to Via Nazion- 0350; www.arcodellauro.it; Via Arco de’ Tolomei ale offers spacious, elegant rooms, all with 27; s €72-132, d €132-145; aW; gViale di Traste- satellite TV and jacuzzi or hydro-massage vere, jViale di Trastevere) This fab six-room shower. There’s a sunny flower-surrounded B&B occupies a centuries-old palazzo on a terrace for summer breakfasts. narrow cobbled street. Its gleaming white rooms combine rustic charm with a mod- oVILLA SPALLETTI TRIVELLI HOTEL €€€ ern look and comfortable beds. The owners Map p320 (%06 4890 7934; www.villaspalletti.it; are welcoming and always ready to help. Via Piacenza 4; r €450-620; aiW; mSpagna) With 12 rooms in a glorious mansion in RELAIS LE CLARISSE HOTEL €€ central Rome, Villa Spalletti Trivelli was Map p316 (%06 5833 4437; www.leclarisse.com; built by Gabriella Rasponi, widow of Italian Via Cardinale Merry del Val 20; r €80-230; aW; senator Count Venceslao Spalletti Triveli gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) Set and the niece of Carolina Bonaparte (Na- hacienda-style around a pretty internal poleon’s sister). It’s a soujourn in a stately courtyard with an olive tree and a smat- home: rooms are soberly and elegantly tering of cast-iron tables, this is a delight- decorated, and the sitting rooms are hung ful oasis in Trastevere’s bustling core. In with 16th-century tapestries or lined with contrast to the urban mayhem outside, the antique books. There’s a basement spa. hotel is a picture of farmhouse charm with rooms, each named after a plant, decorated in rustic style with wrought-iron bedsteads 4 Trastevere & Gianicolo and wood-beamed ceilings.

MARIA-ROSA GUESTHOUSE B&B € RESIDENZA ARCO DE’ TOLOMEI HOTEL €€ Map p316 (%338 7700067; www.maria-rosa. Map p316 (%06 5832 0819; www.bbarcodeito- it; Via dei Vascellari 55; s €45-65, d €65-80, tr lomei.com; Via Arco de’ Tolomei 27; d €155-205; €80-120; iW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di aW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Traste- Trastevere) This is a delightful B&B on the vere) This gorgeous place is decorated with 3rd floor of a Trastevere townhouse. It’s a ­polished antiques and rich contrasting simple affair with two guestrooms sharing chintzes that make the interiors feel like a a single bathroom and a small living room, country cottage. It’s a lovely place to stay, but the homey decor, pot plants and books and the owners are friendly and helpful. create a lovely, warm atmosphere. The own- er, Sylvie, also has a further three rooms BUONANOTTE GARIBALDI GUESTHOUSE €€ on the floor above at La Casa di Kaia (Map Map p316 (%06 5833 0733; www.buonanottegar- p316; %338 7700067; www.kaia-trastevere.it; ibaldi.com; Via Garibaldi 83; r €210-280, closed 7 Via dei Vascellari 55; with shared bathroom s €45- Jan‒7 Mar; aiW; gPiazza Sonnino, jPiazza 55, d €65-75; W; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Sonnino) With only three rooms, this is a ha- Trastevere). There’s no lift. ven: an upmarket B&B in a divinely pretty inner-city villa, set around a courtyard. The LA FORESTERIA ORSA MAGGIORE HOSTEL € rooms are beautifully decorated and there Map p316 (%06 689 37 53; www.casainternazi- are works of art and sculpture all over the onaledelledonne.org; 2nd fl, Via San Francesco di place – this is artist Luisa Longo’s house. Sales 1a; dm €26, s/d €75/110, without bathroom Pick of the rooms is Blue, upstairs, which €52/72; iW; gPiazza Trilussa) This lesbian-­ opens onto a greenery-shaded terrace. friendly, women-only guesthouse (boys 222 HOTEL SANTA MARIA HOTEL €€ HOTEL LANCELOT HOTEL €€ Map p316 (%06 589 46 26; www.hotelsantamaria. Map p314 (%06 7045 0615; www.lancelothotel. info; Vicolo del Piede 2; s €90-225, d €100-290, tr com; Via Capo d’Africa 47; s €100-128, d €130- €130-330 ; aiW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di 196; aW; gVia di San Giovanni in Laterano) A Trastevere) Walk along the ivy-lined approach great location near the Colosseum, striking and you’ll enter a tranquil haven. Surround- views, and helpful English-speaking staff ing a spacious modern cloister (a former

Sleeping – the family-run Lancelot scores across convent site), shaded by orange trees, rooms the board. The lobby and communal areas are cool and comfortable, decorated in sunny gleam with marble and crystal while the colours, and with terracotta floors. There are spacious rooms exhibit a more classic style. some larger family rooms. The staff is pro-

SAN GIOVANNI & TESTACCIO GIOVANNI SAN fessional, and there’s access for people with HOTEL ROMANCE HOTEL €€ a disability. Nearby Residenza Santa Maria Map p314 (%06 8929 5106; www.hotelromance. (Map p316; %06 5833 5103; www.residenzasan- it; Via Marco 37a; s €70-140, d €70-200; tamaria.com; Via dell’Arco di San Calisto 20; s €90- aW; mColosseo) A warm welcome awaits 190, d €100-230; iW) is its smaller sister. at this family-run three-star near the Colos- seum. It has quiet, comfy rooms decorated VILLA DELLA FONTE B&B €€ in traditional Roman style and views over a Map p316 (%06 580 37 97; www.villafonte.com; lush garden next door. Via della Fonte dell’Olio 8; r €80-230; aW; gViale j di Trastevere, Viale di Trastevere) A terracotta- oHOTEL SANT’ANSELMO HOTEL €€€ hued, ivy-shrouded gem, Villa della Fonte is Map p314 (%06 57 00 57; www.aventinohotels. a romantic choice, occupying a 17th-century com; Piazza Sant’Anselmo 2; s €90-265, d €99- building in a street off Piazza Santa Maria 290; aW; gVia Marmorata) A ravishing ro-

in Trastevere. It has five rooms, all of which mantic hideaway in the elegant Aventino  are simply decorated but have pretty out- district. Its rooms are not the biggest but looks, good bathrooms and comfortable they are stylish, juxtaposing four-poster beds. The sunny garden terrace is a plus. beds, Liberty-style furniture and marble bathrooms with modern touches. oDONNA CAMILLA SAVELLI HOTEL €€€ Map p316 (%06 58 88 61; www.hoteldonnacamilla- savelli.com; Via Garibaldi 27; d €165-250; aiW; 4 gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) It’s sel- Villa Borghese & dom you have such an exquisite opportunity Northern Rome as to stay in a converted convent designed oPALM GALLERY HOTEL HOTEL €€ by Borromini. It’s been beautifully updated; Map p324 (%06 6478 1859; www.palmgalleryho- muted colours complement the serene con- tel.com; Via delle Alpi 15d; s €100-120, d €100-210; cave and convex curves of the architecture, aW; gVia Nomentana, gViale Regina Margher- and service is excellent. The pricier of the 78 ita) Housed in an early-20th-century villa, rooms overlook the cloister garden or have this gorgeous hotel sports an eclectic look views of Rome, and are decorated with an- that effortlessly blends African and Middle tiques – it’s worth forking out that bit extra. Eastern art with original art-deco furni- ture, exposed brickwork and hand-painted tiles. Rooms are individually decorated, 4 San Giovanni with the best offering views over the wiste- & Testaccio ria and thick greenery in the surrounding streets. oALTHEA INN B&B € Map p314 (%339 4353717, 06 9893 2666; www. altheainn.com; Via dei Conciatori 9; d €70-125; mPiramide) In a workaday apartment block, 4 Southern Rome this friendly B&B offers superb value for HOTEL ABITART HOTEL €€ money and easy access to Testaccio’s bars, Map p326 (%06 454 31 91; www.abitarthotel. clubs and restaurants. Its spacious, light- com; Via Matteucci 12; d €130-150; mPiramide, filled rooms sport a modish look with white dOstiense) Located in the gritty, trendy Os- walls and tasteful modern furniture. Each tiense area, the Abitart is decorated with also has a small terrace. a pop-arty feel, and is close to some good restaurants. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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