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Visit to Rome Is an Intoxicating and Vivid Dive Into Italy's Historical Heart

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Visit to Rome Is an Intoxicating and Vivid Dive Into Italy's Historical Heart Coffee is religion in Italy and there’s no prosciutto sliced off the bone, panini, shortage of choice. My first mission upon fresh cheese and plump berries for arriving in the city is to always find a good an impromptu picnic by the river. coffee close by, often asking local friends My favourite stall is number 22, Casa for recommendations or simply following Manco, for its freshly baked focaccia. my nose. To fit in with the locals, we stand Cooked in rustic slabs and sold by the at the bar to sip our espressi, and it’s slice, the fragrant bread is topped with never long before we’re engaging in mushrooms and ricotta or tomatoes, visit to Rome is conversation with one or two residents. anchovies and mozzarella, each slice an intoxicating My preferred place to stay is drizzled with a beautiful robust extra virgin and vivid dive G Rough, a small, nine-suite hotel olive oil and a sprinkling of salt. There’s into Italy’s historical heart, which connects located within walking distance of all also the wonderful Esquilino market that to the pulse of this Eternal City through its the must-visit sights. Designed by pulses with life and vitality. It’s a covered ancient charms and timeless architecture. leading architect Giorgia Cerulli, the market on Via Principe Amedeo near There’s no better way to discover the hotel features luxurious contemporary the Termini train station, and displays essence and underbelly of Roman life than design, including an understated abundant seasonal and regional fruit and by exploring its food culture. Rome is entrance. It’s also right next door vegetables as well as the occasional exotic a wonderful city for a food pilgrimage. to popular enoteca Cul de Sac, where tropical fruit, seafood, meat, Indian and My auto pilot tells me to hit the streets we like to stop for an aperitivo in the late African spices. The wild strawberries from to see what tastes I’ll find along the way. afternoon, choosing a different glass Nemi, southeast of Rome, are exquisite I make time for stops at cafes, bars and of wine each day from its extensive list. when in season. Arestaurants where the best food is simple The produce markets reflect the Much of the traditional food of Rome and honest, often found in the seasons, and a visit to any one of the city’s is based on Jewish recipes and this back streets, far from the mercati informs me of what to expect on becomes evident when you explore the tourist-clogged Spanish Steps. restaurant menus. My favourite market is narrow, cobblestoned streets of the Mercato di Testaccio, a gentle 30-minute Ghetto, the old Jewish quarter. Locals @christinemanfieldchef walk from our hotel and a few blocks in swoon over pizza bianca baked around from the river, on Via Benjamin Franklin. the clock at Forno del Ghetto, a kosher Open every day except Sunday, this bakery that has been making bread produce heaven offers a wondrous display for more than a hundred years. of the local harvest. It’s a very joyful place Try its crusty ossi, a perfect for any keen cook who cares about the snack. As we meander provenance of their food, and it makes through the Jewish me yearn for access to a kitchen. quarter, we Instead we get our hands on discover The marble Pantheon Fountain, which sits just outside the majestic monument. 132 delicious.com.au DEL0819p132 132 26/6/19 10:40 am GLOBAL FLAVOURS. CLOCKWISE (from above): G Rough Hotel features wares by iconic Italian designers; antipasto at Cul de Sac; Testaccio Market (inset); where you can also pick up glorious artichokes; pizza by the slice at Casa Manco; lunch and a spot of people-watching at Cul de Sac’s outdoor space; order a slice or two at Casa Manco. DEL0819p133 133 26/6/19 10:40 am CLOCKWISE (from above): carciofi alla giudìa, or Jewish-style artichokes at Ristorante Dillà; Pierluigi Ristorante’s spaghetti alle vongole (inset); frame-worthy scene in Porta Settimiana; Ristorante Dilla’s message to customers can be seen from the outdoor seating; one of Rome’s largest piazzas, Piazza Navona. OPPOSITE (from above): cacio e pepe at Da Cesere al Casaletto; chef Leonardo Vignoli with his prized pecorino; view over the Forum, with Via Sacra, Arch of Titus and the Colosseum. 134 delicious.com.au DEL0819p134 134 26/6/19 10:41 am GLOBAL FLAVOURS. of chilli. I might opt for classics like empire, located a couple of blocks away saltimbocca alla Romana – pan-fried veal close to Campo di Fiori. Rimessa is a escalope with sage and prosciutto. If it’s wine-and-food tasting room where guests late spring, I adore the perfect simplicity sit at a communal table and allow the of quadrucci e piselli, short pasta and kitchen to showcase its talents. The clever tender, sweet peas, tossed with pancetta menu is accompanied by carefully chosen and garlic. My idea of heaven. wines and a relaxed, uncontrived style. When in Rome, I generally eat I succumb to its expert direction and at a local osteria, enoteca trust the staff wholeheartedly. or trattoria. They’re Abruzzese chef Sarah Cicolini opened casual, relaxed and her trattoria, Santo Palato, in 2017. Her vibrant, and the gutsy food and hipster style has so much food is terrific, soul, showcasing a menu that heeds cooked with care nose-to-tail comfort cooking, and whether and easy on the it’s her signature tongue-and-tail terrine wallet. One of or a traditional rigatoni alla carbonara, my favourites is her passion for the food is unmistakable. Dillà, for its fresh Natural wines play a significant role on Alice Kosher Pizza, salads, so full of Cicolini’s menu, and are a standout, too. where we devour a texture and flavour. (Read more on Sarah Cicolini on p 84). couple of generous Served with fish or The noisy, fast-paced Da Francesco slices, one adorned with pasta, they make a is next on my go-to list. Try its steak grilled eggplant and another perfect lunch. The service served with balsamic vinegar, and with potato and rosemary, as they is friendly, inviting and informed focaccia with fine shavings of ham. emerge from the woodfired oven. The and its daily specials are listed on the A silken, wobbly, perfectly made panna traditional food shops in this district blackboard. Roscioli is the definitive cotta drizzled with a local acacia honey captivate our senses; it’s like tasting Roman trattoria and on everyone’s go-to is the perfect way to end a meal here. history in every bite. list. It boasts one of the most convivial Al Moro, near the Trevi Fountain, has Indeed, history is reflected in many of dining rooms in the city – the atmosphere an enticing menu where vegetables play the city’s favourite dishes. It’s pretty easy is palpable. It definitely pays to book a starring role alongside fried baby to go weak at the knees over the crisp ahead to get a seat and be amongst it all. calamari and the ubiquitous salted cod. deep-fried salted cod (filetto di baccala) The food is authentic and incredibly With its prime corner position in the served from any number of hole-in-the consistent, impressive in its style and narrow streets of the Lucina district, wall establishments across town, and simplicity. Roscioli’s Roman pastas – Ciampini is ideal for a salad or antipasti when in season, broad beans (fava), bucatini all’amatriciana and cacio e pepe from its bistro menu. I always save room artichokes (carciofi) and kale (cavolo nero) – along with its salumi and cured meats, for one of its sweet pastries. are spectactular. Romans also breathe new are out of this world. Around the corner is While seeking a little retail therapy life into the humble broccoli – steamed its sister, Antico Forno Roscioli, serving along Via del Corso or Via Condotti, and tossed with fried anchovy crumbs, deliciously authentic pizza by the slice. I like to stop in at Antico Enoteca for decadent lashings of garlic and a hint The same family has added Rimessa to its a well-deserved aperitivo and perhaps DEL0819p135 135 26/6/19 10:41 am.
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