Appendix RECOMMENDED DOWEL DIAMETERS AND WIRE GAUGES FOR BASIC CHAIN TYPES

In chain design the relationship between wire gauge and dowel size is critical to the construc• tion of a successful chain, which to us means a neat, close weave. In general, the low-gauge, heavier wires should be wound on larger dowels while lighter, higher gauge wires need smaller dowels. Usually a limited range of dowel sizes can be used with wire of a particular gauge and one's choice is based on the characteristics desired in the chain. A dowel on the small side gives a compact, more solid-appearing chain while a dowel that is large for the wire produces a lighter, more open look. In Table 1 we recommend a range of dowel diameters and wire gauges appropriate for the basic chain types.

TABLE 1 GAUGEIDOWEL SPECIFICATIONS FOR VARYING BASIC CHAINS Given in thirty-seconds of an inch to clarify dowel diameter relationships; conversion to simpler fractions can be done using Table 2 IS-gauge 20-gauge 22-gauge 23-gauge 24-gauge 25-gauge 26-gauge Single 1:1'32" 1%2" %2" %2" 0/32" ')132" %2" 1%2" 1:1'32" %2" 0/32" ')132" 1%2"

Pinched Loop 2%2" 1)t3z" 1}'32" 10/32" %2" %2" 0/32" 20/32" 1%2" 1%2" %2" 2%2" 10/32" 1%2"

Double 10/32" 1%2" %2" 7132" 0/32" 0/32" )-32" 1%2" 10/32" %2" %2" %2" 1<1'32"

Two-way double 1%2" 10/32" %2" %2" %2" 0/32" Y32" 1%2" %2" 7132" 0/32"

Three-way double 10/32" 1%2" %2" %2" 7132" 1}'32" %2" %2"

Two-way single 10/32" %2" %2" %2" 7132" 0/32" 1%2" 1%2" 1%2"

Three-way single 1%2" 10/32" 1%2" %2" 7132" 1%2" %2"

177 DOWEL DIAMETER RELATIONSHIPS

Wooden dowels, especially the smaller ones, often are only approximations of their stated diam- eters; these approximations are usually close enough to work well in our directions. Table 2 gives the metric measurement and the different fractional parts of an inch for the dowel sizes used in this book.

TABLE 2 DOWEL DIAMETER RElATIONSHIPS Inches Millimeters Thirty-seconds Halves Quarters Eighths Sixteenths 0.79 132" 1.58 132" Y;l' 2.37 %2" 3.16 %2" Va" YJ.6" 3.95 Y§2" 4.74 %2" Yll' 5.53 7132" 6.32 %2" 14" %" 'Yl6" 7.11 %2" 7.90 1%2" Yl6" 8.69 1132" 9.48 1132" ¥S" 0/16" 10.27 1%z" 11.06 1%2" Yl.6" 11.85 lY§2" 12.64 1%2" Yz" %" %" . o/J.6" 13.43 1/32" 14.22 10/32" VI6" 15.01 1%2" 15.80 2%2" 'is" HYl.6" 16.59 2132" 17.38 2%2" lYi6" 18.17 2%z" 18.96 2%2" %" %" lYJl'

178 RECOMMENDED DOWEL DIAMETERS AND WIRE GAUGES FOR BASIC CHAIN 1YPES TROY WEIGHTS

While we have specified the amounts of silver for projects in feet or inches, the prices of precious metals are based on weight. The price of a length of silver wire is usually calculated from Troy ounces but the price of gold may be calculated from pennyweights (dwts.), grains, which are fractions of pennyweights, or Troy ounces:

24 grains = 1 pennyweight (dwt) 20 dwts = 1 ounce (Troy) 1 dwt = 1.5 grams

Troy ounces are heavier than avoirdupois ounces; one Troy ounce equals 1.10 ounces avoirdupois. Table 3 gives the thickness in millimeters and inches and the weight in Troy ounces per foot* of the wire gauges most often used in making the chains in this book.

TABLE 3 WEIGHT PER FOOT OF ROUND WIRE Fine Gold 22K Gold Thickness B&S Fine Silver Sterling Silver Troy Troy Gauge (inches) (millimeters) Troy (Ozs.) Troy (Ozs.) (Ozs.) (Dwts.) (Ozs.) (Dwts.) 14 0.06408 1.63 0.214 0.211 0.392 7.87 0.360 7.21 15 0.05706 1.45 0.169 0.167 0.313 6.25 0.286 5.73 16 0.05082 1.29 0.135 0.132 0.248 4.96 0.217 4.34 17 0.04525 1.15 0.107 0.105 0.197 3.93 0.180 3.60 18 0.04030 1.02 0.0846 0.0835 0.155 3.11 0.143 2.85 19 0.03589 0.912 0.0671 0.0662 0.124 2.48 0.114 2.27 20 0.03196 0.813 0.0532 0.0525 0.0981 1.96 0.0900 1.80 21 0.02846 0.724 0.0422 0.0416 0.0780 1.56 0.0715 1.43 22 0.02534 0.643 0.0335 0.0330 0.0615 1.23 0.0565 1.13 23 0.02257 0.574 0.0265 0.0262 0.0489 0.977 0.0447 0.894 24 0.02010 0.511 0.0210 0.Q208 0.0388 0.755 0.0355 0.710 25 0.01790 0.455 0.0167 0.0165 0.0308 0.615 0.0282 0.563 26 0.01594 0.404 0.0133 0.0131 0.0244 0.488 0.0223 0.447

• Approximation. The actual weight will depend on the composition of the alloy; this varies less with higher karat precious metal alloys than with the lower ones.

TROY WEIGHTS 179 COMPOSITION OF 22K ALLOY FOR FUSED CHAINS-GOLD IN OUNCES

1 troy ounce of 24k gold 33 grains of fine silver, very clean (no solder, etc.) 11 grains of pure copper

COMPOSITION OF 22K ALLOY FOR FUSED CHAINS-GOLD IN PENNYWEIGHTS

22 dwts of 24k gold 1.5 dwts of fine silver, very clean 0.5 dwt of pure copper

ALLOYING 22K GOLD FOR FUSED LOOP CHAINS

Sand a hollow in a new charcoal block that has been bound around the outside with binding wire. The proportions of metals in an alloy are always determined by weighing. Weigh the met• als for alloying very carefully with a gold scale. Place the gold into the hollow in the charcoal block. Using a Smith No.2 or a Prestolite No.3 or No.4 tip, heat until the gold puddles into a molten "button." Let the gold cool, making sure that its surface is smooth and shiny and that it forms a hole; there should be no discoloration or streaks in the metal. Reheat again until molten and add the silver and copper. With an unpainted wood, charcoal, or carborundum stick, stir the metal to mix it. Use the flame to keep the "button" jumping around. After about 1 minute, remove the flame and allow the metal to cool until it is solid. In another charcoal block, make a trough approximately V4" deep and at least 2" long. Place the alloyed metal "button" in the trough and reheat until it melts into a long ingot. Cool, pickle, and put through a square rolling mill, if one is available. If not, hammer the ingot until it is small enough in diameter to be drawn through the largest hole in a draw plate. Anneal often as you hammer. NOTE: If the char• coal block is sprayed with water immediately after the torch has been removed, it will last longer.

DRAWING WIRE

Place the draw plate in the bolted-down vise, making sure that it is tightly secured. File a long point on the ingot, anneal, pickle, lubricate with beeswax or oil and put the point through the largest hole in the plate, going from the back to the front. Grab the point with draw tongs placed right next to the plate and pull the ingot through the hole straight back. Continue draw• ing through smaller and smaller holes until the desired size has been reached. Anneal often, every five or six pulls, or when the metal becomes resistant or hard.

180 RECOMMENDED DOWEL DIAMETERS AND WIRE GAUGES FOR BASIC CHAIN TYPES WORKING IN GOLD

Fusing links made of 22k gold is actually easier than fusing silver links once the process has been tried and practiced several times. The fuse-point is not as obvious, and the link must be watched carefully so as to see this, but there is more time after the link becomes red before the fusion takes place. The 22k alloy, although still very malleable, has a little more resistance than fine silver. In some instances, particularly when the wire is thinner (higher gauge), this property makes it easier to work; when the wire is fairly heavy (lower gauge), it becomes more difficult to form and weave it. Also, unlike fine silver, 22k gold must be pickled after it has been heated, since the copper in the alloy will oxidize.

TABLE 4 MELTING POINTS OF SILVER AND SILVER SOLDERS Melting Point Melting Point (Degrees Fahrenheit) (Degrees Centigrade) Fine silver 1761 961 Sterling silver (92.5%) 1640 893 Hard silver solder 1460 793 Medium silver solder 1390 754 Easy silver solder 1325 718

TABLE 5 MELTING POINTS OF GOLD AND GOLD SOLDERS Melting Point Melting Point (Degrees Fahrenheit) (Degrees Centigrade) Fine gold 1945 1063 22k Gold 1890 1032 18k Gold-hard solder 1520 827 18k Gold-medium solder 1425 774 18k Gold--€asy solder 1390 754

WORKING IN GOLD 181 EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, AND SUPPLIES

The following are lists of the equipment, tools, and supplies needed to make the chains in this book.

WORKROOM EQUIPMENT

Bench with heat-resistant top Optivisor or other magnifying eyeglasses Torch and tips (Smith: 00, 0, or No.1, Pres• Third arm or other holding device tolite: No. la or No.2; for alloying: Smith Pickle pot (crock pot, lift out kind set at No. 2 or Prestolite No. 3 or No.4) low heat, or a pyrex glass dish on a cup• Striker warming unit) Small kiln (desirable, not absolutely Pickle-Sparex No. 2 essential) Pickle and copper tongs Flexible shaft Rolling mill (for making gold wire) Bench vise Large vise bolted to a solid surface (for Dowel set (V16", 3/32", Vs", 5/32", V16", 7/32", making gold wire) II" 9/ " 5/ " 11/ " 3/" 13/ " 7/ " 14 , 132 , 116, 132, 18, 132, 116 , Draw plates and tongs (for making gold 15/132 " , 1/"12 , 9/161 " , 51"18, 111116, "31" 14 , a nd 7/'')18 wire) Charcoal block (new)

HAND TOOLS

Small chain-nose pliers 1.4 mm round edge joint file Small round-nose pliers Scribes, two of the same size Larger round-nose pliers Long scribe with a blunt point Grooved 1 Vz" pliers (groove must accom• Leather (or plastic) mallet modate 14 gauge wire) Small planishing hammer Scissors (small) or snips jeweler's saw and blades (03 and 06) Fine tweezers Two metal blocks Tweezers for firing Files (medium-No.4): barrette, rat-tail, half-round

182 RECOMMENDED DOWEL DIAMETERS AND WIRE GAUGES FOR BASIC CHAIN 1YPES SUPPLIES

Flux-yellow, liquid Indelible ink pen Flux brushes Small metal ruler Silver solders-hard, medium, and easy Water dish Ochre and ochre brush Empty small screw-cap jars (or empty 35 mm film containers) to be used for Paper towels holding links Masking tape

USEFUL ADDITIONS

Wire gauge Calipers Micrometer

SOME SOURCES OF EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, AND MATERIALS

METALS

T.B. Hagstoz & Son, 709 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106 (215)-922-1627; Nat'l 1-800-922-1006 Hoover and Strong, 10700 Trade Road, Richmond, VA 23236 (804)-794-3700; Nat'l 1-800-225-5510; FAX 804-794-5687 Myron Toback, 25 West 47th Street, New York, NY 10036 NYC (212)-398-8300; NYS 1-800-442-8444; Nat'l 1-800-223-7550; FAX 212-869-0808

TOOLS

Allcraft Tool & Supply, 666 Pacific Street, Brooklyn, NY 11217 (18)-789-2800; Nat'l 1-800-645-7124

Anchor Tool & Supply, P.O. Box 265, Chatham, NJ 07928 (201)-635-2094

Frei & Borel, 119 Third Street, Oakland, CA 94607 (415)-832-0355; 1-800-772-3456; FAX 415-834-6217

SOME SOURCES OF EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, AND MATERIALS 183 Gesswein, 255 Hancock Avenue, Bridgeport, CT 06605 (203)-366-5400; 1-800-243-4466; FAX 203-366-3953

T.B. Hagstoz & Son, 709 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106 Phil (215)-922-1627; Nat'l 1-800-922-1006 Rio Grande, 6901 Washington Avenue NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109 1-800-545-6566; Service 1-800-533-3299; FAX 505-344-9671 Myron Toback, 25 West 47th Street, New York, NY 10036 NYC (212)-398-8300; NYS 1-800-442-8444; Nat'l 1-800-223-7550 FAX 212-869-0808

KILNS

Allcraft Tool & Supply, 666 Pacific Street, Brooklyn, NY 11217 (718)-789-2800; Nat'l 1-800-645-7124 J E C Products, Inc., 416 South High Street, P.O. Box 111, Port Byron, IL 61275 (309)-523-2600 Rio Grande, 6901 Washington Avenue NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109 1-800-545-6566; Service 1-800-533-3299; FAX 505-344-9671

184 RECOMMENDED DOWEL DIAMETERS AND WIRE GAUGES FOR BASIC CHAIN TYPES Glossary

These terms are particularly associated with those techniques used in making classical loop-in-Ioop chains.

Alloy A combination of two or more metals that have been intimately mixed, usually by fusing with heat.

Annealing A process in which metal is heated to remove the hardening that results from its being worked or handled. This process makes the metal softer and more easily worked.

Balling Up Using heat to form a small ball at one end of a wire or link. A modern technique for adding a decorative element to woven chains or clasps.

Butting Bringing the two ends of a link tightly and evenly together.

Double Loop-in-Loop A type of chain made by weaving one link through both loops of the two previous links on a chain.

Fine Gold Pure 24 karat (100%) gold. This is too soft and malleable to be worn or handled without deforming and must be alloyed for most jewelry.

Fine Silver Pure (100%) silver. Although this is similar in malleability to 24 karat gold, a few types of wearable jewelry can be made from it. Sterling silver may have to be used for some parts of a fine silver piece to provide extra strength.

Flux A substance used to prevent oxidation, eliminate surface tension, and guide the flow of metal during soldering.

Fusing The technique of joining metal without soldering by heating under conditions that cause the components to melt and flow into each other.

Join The line where two parts meet.

Joint The construction that unites two parts.

Jump Ring A ring that connects two parts of a piece of jewelry.

Karat (in England carat) The unit indicating the amount of fine gold in an alloy. Fine gold is 24 karat.

Karat Gold Indicates the amount of fine gold in a particular alloy; examples: 22k (91.6%), 18k (75%)' 14k (58.3%).

Loop-in-Loop Chain A type of chain made by weaving permanently closed links, fused or soldered, through each other. After the links are formed into long ovals and bent in half, the

185 loop of the link that is being added is passed through both loops of the most recently incorporated link on the chain.

Malleability The softness or workability of a metal.

Mandrel A tapered tool on which round or oval metal pieces can be shaped. The jaws of round-nose pliers are often used as small mandrels.

Milling Modification of the shape, size, and thickness of a piece of metal by passing it repeatedly between steel rollers.

Multiple A chain that has more than one row of links. Multiples are usually made by soldering links together before weaving or by weaving in two directions.

Ochre An earth pigment used by jewelers to insulate a portion of a metal piece while an adjacent section is being heated. The ochre, which can be removed later, is painted onto the area.

Pickle A weak acid solution used to remove oxide scale and flux from a piece after soldering.

Pinched Loop A type of chain woven like single loop-in-Ioop chains in which the links are constructed with loops at right angles to each other.

Planishing Gently flattening or extending a metal by striking it lightly with a smooth-faced hammer.

Point Soldering The use of the point on a soldering pick to place solder in a joint with precision and control.

Quenching Cooling hot metal by immersing it in water.

Scribe A small, pointed, tapered tool designed principally for marking or scoring metal, but with several other uses in chain making. Single Loop-in-Loop A type of chain made by weaving a link through both loops of the previous link on a chain.

Solder An alloy with a melting point lower than that of the pieces that it is used to unite. Hard solder is closest to the melting point of the metal (or metals) being joined, medium solder is intermediate, and easy solder has the lowest melting point and can be used only for final soldering.

Soldering Joining two metal pieces with solder by heating in the presence of flux.

Sterling Silver A silver alloy, 92.5% fine silver, 7.5% copper. Sterling silver is stronger and harder than fine silver and is difficult to fuse successfully for chains.

Tamping The final shaping and evening of a chain done by gently tapping it with a leather, plastic, or rubber mallet.

186 GLOSSARY Terminations Constructions that cover and finish the ends of a chain and that may form part of the clasp.

Truing Final adjustments made to a chain to bring all the links to the same openness and evenness.

Weave-Off A technique for creating two (or more) smaller chains with each originating on loops of a foundation (or initial) chain.

Wire Gauge The thickness of wire. The higher the gauge the thinner and lighter the wire.

Work Hardening The brittleness and loss of malleability that develops in metals as they are worked or handled.

GLOSSARY 187 INDEX

annealing, 11, 12-13 four-way single loop-in-Ioop pinched loop link forming chains, 97-99 positions, 47, 48, 52 balling-up, 27, 29, 32, 34, 35, foxtail chain, 2, 67 planishing, 34, 40, 53, 130, 153, 158, 161, 163, 174 fusing, 4, 16-18 155, 163 basic loop-in-Ioop process, 2, 4, 20 graduated links, 116 quadruple loop-in-Ioop basic tools, 6-12 Greek chains, 2, 54, 68, 80, chains (two-way bowtie link shape, 19-20 100, 123, 145 double), 2, 100, 103, 145, broken links, 22 148 Bronze Age, 2 Hellenistic chains, 2, 123, 133 Byzantine period, 2 Hu, Mary Lee, 85 repairing broken links, 22 Roman chains, 2, 51, 54, 68, Castellani, 3 inconsistently formed links, 80, 100, 123, 145 charcoal block use, 11-12, 21,47 116 insufficiently fused links, 21 sailor's chains (pinched collar rings, 41, 42, 44, 45, 64, loop), 2, 46, 59, 123, 65, 164 Kulicke-Stark Academy of 126, 129 common problems, 21, 24, Jewelry Art, 3 sectional chains, 71 47, 68, 90, 99, 110, 116 kilns, 11, 184 sextuple loop-in-Ioop chains composite links, 115 (three-way double), long dog bone link shape, 2, 104-106 dog bone link shape, 19-20 19-20 single loop-in-Ioop chains, double loop-in-Ioop chains, loop-in-Ioop chain names, 3 2, 23-24, 46, 91, 116, 2, 67-89, 133 lopsided bowtie link shape, 130, 138, 142 dowels, 9, 182 19-20 solders, 12, 182, 183 soldered chains, 115-136 Egyptian chains, 1, 100 malformed links, 21 starters, 90, 92, 96, 98, 101, Etruscan chains, 2, 68, 100 malleability, 6 105, 108 evenness in weaving, 20 Medieval period, 2 strap necklaces, 2, 145 exclamation point link shape, multidirectional chains, 2, 4, 19-20 90-114 tamping, 71 multirow chains, 2, 4, tapered chains, 109-114 fine silver,S, 183 115-151 tapered sections, 113 fluxes, 12, 183 terminations, 71,169-176 four-way double loop-in-Ioop Parrish, Louise, 27 three-way double loop-in- chains, 107-108 pinched loop chains, 2, loop chains, 2, 104-106 46-66, 123, 126, 129

189 three-way single loop-in-loop 22 karat gold, 5, 180 weave-off links, 81 chains, 94-96 weaving chain, 5, 20 through-bead links, 41-42, use of anannealed and wooden drawplate, 94, 96, 63-66 annealed wire, 110 +03 truing, 24, 28, 32 uneven pinched loop chain, work hardening, 6 two-way double loop-in-Ioop 47 wrapped bead clasp, 164-166 chains, 2, 100-103, 145, wrapped bead chains, 54-58, 148 Walters Museum, 129 71-76 two-way double loop-in-Ioop watchmaker's pliers, 10 wrapping into chain, 55-58, chains, 91-94, 137, 142 weave-off chain, 80-84 73-76, 155-157

190 INDEX