Appendix RECOMMENDED DOWEL DIAMETERS AND WIRE GAUGES FOR BASIC CHAIN TYPES In chain design the relationship between wire gauge and dowel size is critical to the construc­ tion of a successful chain, which to us means a neat, close weave. In general, the low-gauge, heavier wires should be wound on larger dowels while lighter, higher gauge wires need smaller dowels. Usually a limited range of dowel sizes can be used with wire of a particular gauge and one's choice is based on the characteristics desired in the chain. A dowel on the small side gives a compact, more solid-appearing chain while a dowel that is large for the wire produces a lighter, more open look. In Table 1 we recommend a range of dowel diameters and wire gauges appropriate for the basic chain types. TABLE 1 GAUGEIDOWEL SPECIFICATIONS FOR VARYING BASIC CHAINS Given in thirty-seconds of an inch to clarify dowel diameter relationships; conversion to simpler fractions can be done using Table 2 IS-gauge 20-gauge 22-gauge 23-gauge 24-gauge 25-gauge 26-gauge Single 1:1'32" 1%2" %2" %2" 0/32" ')132" %2" 1%2" 1:1'32" %2" 0/32" ')132" 1%2" Pinched Loop 2%2" 1)t3z" 1}'32" 10/32" %2" %2" 0/32" 20/32" 1%2" 1%2" %2" 2%2" 10/32" 1%2" Double 10/32" 1%2" %2" 7132" 0/32" 0/32" )-32" 1%2" 10/32" %2" %2" %2" 1<1'32" Two-way double 1%2" 10/32" %2" %2" %2" 0/32" Y32" 1%2" %2" 7132" 0/32" Three-way double 10/32" 1%2" %2" %2" 7132" 1}'32" %2" %2" Two-way single 10/32" %2" %2" %2" 7132" 0/32" 1%2" 1%2" 1%2" Three-way single 1%2" 10/32" 1%2" %2" 7132" 1%2" %2" 177 DOWEL DIAMETER RELATIONSHIPS Wooden dowels, especially the smaller ones, often are only approximations of their stated diam- eters; these approximations are usually close enough to work well in our directions. Table 2 gives the metric measurement and the different fractional parts of an inch for the dowel sizes used in this book. TABLE 2 DOWEL DIAMETER RElATIONSHIPS Inches Millimeters Thirty-seconds Halves Quarters Eighths Sixteenths 0.79 132" 1.58 132" Y;l' 2.37 %2" 3.16 %2" Va" YJ.6" 3.95 Y§2" 4.74 %2" Yll' 5.53 7132" 6.32 %2" 14" %" 'Yl6" 7.11 %2" 7.90 1%2" Yl6" 8.69 1132" 9.48 1132" ¥S" 0/16" 10.27 1%z" 11.06 1%2" Yl.6" 11.85 lY§2" 12.64 1%2" Yz" %" %" . o/J.6" 13.43 1/32" 14.22 10/32" VI6" 15.01 1%2" 15.80 2%2" 'is" HYl.6" 16.59 2132" 17.38 2%2" lYi6" 18.17 2%z" 18.96 2%2" %" %" lYJl' 178 RECOMMENDED DOWEL DIAMETERS AND WIRE GAUGES FOR BASIC CHAIN 1YPES TROY WEIGHTS While we have specified the amounts of silver for projects in feet or inches, the prices of precious metals are based on weight. The price of a length of silver wire is usually calculated from Troy ounces but the price of gold may be calculated from pennyweights (dwts.), grains, which are fractions of pennyweights, or Troy ounces: 24 grains = 1 pennyweight (dwt) 20 dwts = 1 ounce (Troy) 1 dwt = 1.5 grams Troy ounces are heavier than avoirdupois ounces; one Troy ounce equals 1.10 ounces avoirdupois. Table 3 gives the thickness in millimeters and inches and the weight in Troy ounces per foot* of the wire gauges most often used in making the chains in this book. TABLE 3 WEIGHT PER FOOT OF ROUND WIRE Fine Gold 22K Gold Thickness B&S Fine Silver Sterling Silver Troy Troy Gauge (inches) (millimeters) Troy (Ozs.) Troy (Ozs.) (Ozs.) (Dwts.) (Ozs.) (Dwts.) 14 0.06408 1.63 0.214 0.211 0.392 7.87 0.360 7.21 15 0.05706 1.45 0.169 0.167 0.313 6.25 0.286 5.73 16 0.05082 1.29 0.135 0.132 0.248 4.96 0.217 4.34 17 0.04525 1.15 0.107 0.105 0.197 3.93 0.180 3.60 18 0.04030 1.02 0.0846 0.0835 0.155 3.11 0.143 2.85 19 0.03589 0.912 0.0671 0.0662 0.124 2.48 0.114 2.27 20 0.03196 0.813 0.0532 0.0525 0.0981 1.96 0.0900 1.80 21 0.02846 0.724 0.0422 0.0416 0.0780 1.56 0.0715 1.43 22 0.02534 0.643 0.0335 0.0330 0.0615 1.23 0.0565 1.13 23 0.02257 0.574 0.0265 0.0262 0.0489 0.977 0.0447 0.894 24 0.02010 0.511 0.0210 0.Q208 0.0388 0.755 0.0355 0.710 25 0.01790 0.455 0.0167 0.0165 0.0308 0.615 0.0282 0.563 26 0.01594 0.404 0.0133 0.0131 0.0244 0.488 0.0223 0.447 • Approximation. The actual weight will depend on the composition of the alloy; this varies less with higher karat precious metal alloys than with the lower ones. TROY WEIGHTS 179 COMPOSITION OF 22K ALLOY FOR FUSED CHAINS-GOLD IN OUNCES 1 troy ounce of 24k gold 33 grains of fine silver, very clean (no solder, etc.) 11 grains of pure copper COMPOSITION OF 22K ALLOY FOR FUSED CHAINS-GOLD IN PENNYWEIGHTS 22 dwts of 24k gold 1.5 dwts of fine silver, very clean 0.5 dwt of pure copper ALLOYING 22K GOLD FOR FUSED LOOP CHAINS Sand a hollow in a new charcoal block that has been bound around the outside with binding wire. The proportions of metals in an alloy are always determined by weighing. Weigh the met­ als for alloying very carefully with a gold scale. Place the gold into the hollow in the charcoal block. Using a Smith No.2 or a Prestolite No.3 or No.4 tip, heat until the gold puddles into a molten "button." Let the gold cool, making sure that its surface is smooth and shiny and that it forms a hole; there should be no discoloration or streaks in the metal. Reheat again until molten and add the silver and copper. With an unpainted wood, charcoal, or carborundum stick, stir the metal to mix it. Use the flame to keep the "button" jumping around. After about 1 minute, remove the flame and allow the metal to cool until it is solid. In another charcoal block, make a trough approximately V4" deep and at least 2" long. Place the alloyed metal "button" in the trough and reheat until it melts into a long ingot. Cool, pickle, and put through a square rolling mill, if one is available. If not, hammer the ingot until it is small enough in diameter to be drawn through the largest hole in a draw plate. Anneal often as you hammer. NOTE: If the char­ coal block is sprayed with water immediately after the torch has been removed, it will last longer. DRAWING WIRE Place the draw plate in the bolted-down vise, making sure that it is tightly secured. File a long point on the ingot, anneal, pickle, lubricate with beeswax or oil and put the point through the largest hole in the plate, going from the back to the front. Grab the point with draw tongs placed right next to the plate and pull the ingot through the hole straight back. Continue draw­ ing through smaller and smaller holes until the desired size has been reached. Anneal often, every five or six pulls, or when the metal becomes resistant or hard. 180 RECOMMENDED DOWEL DIAMETERS AND WIRE GAUGES FOR BASIC CHAIN TYPES WORKING IN GOLD Fusing links made of 22k gold is actually easier than fusing silver links once the process has been tried and practiced several times. The fuse-point is not as obvious, and the link must be watched carefully so as to see this, but there is more time after the link becomes red before the fusion takes place. The 22k alloy, although still very malleable, has a little more resistance than fine silver. In some instances, particularly when the wire is thinner (higher gauge), this property makes it easier to work; when the wire is fairly heavy (lower gauge), it becomes more difficult to form and weave it. Also, unlike fine silver, 22k gold must be pickled after it has been heated, since the copper in the alloy will oxidize. TABLE 4 MELTING POINTS OF SILVER AND SILVER SOLDERS Melting Point Melting Point (Degrees Fahrenheit) (Degrees Centigrade) Fine silver 1761 961 Sterling silver (92.5%) 1640 893 Hard silver solder 1460 793 Medium silver solder 1390 754 Easy silver solder 1325 718 TABLE 5 MELTING POINTS OF GOLD AND GOLD SOLDERS Melting Point Melting Point (Degrees Fahrenheit) (Degrees Centigrade) Fine gold 1945 1063 22k Gold 1890 1032 18k Gold-hard solder 1520 827 18k Gold-medium solder 1425 774 18k Gold--€asy solder 1390 754 WORKING IN GOLD 181 EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, AND SUPPLIES The following are lists of the equipment, tools, and supplies needed to make the chains in this book. WORKROOM EQUIPMENT Bench with heat-resistant top Optivisor or other magnifying eyeglasses Torch and tips (Smith: 00, 0, or No.1, Pres­ Third arm or other holding device tolite: No.