Food Stops: Southern India & MumbAi MagazineExplore contemporary India & South Asia singapore edition JANUARY 2014
plus Private Jet Charter Astrology & Travel Sri Lanka Luxury Stays
cover STORY Royal Treatment at Indian Forts & Palaces CKS_Embassy_of_India_AW150114.pdf 1 1/15/14 3:35 PM
Explore contemporary India & South Asia
SINGAPORE EDITION 11
04 editor’s Note 05 contributor’s Page cover Feature 06 Indian Forts & Places - The Royal Treatment The elegant, the subtle, the whimsical and the bizarre! The range of palaces boggles the mind! FEATURES 11 Winter Thrills in India’s alpine Country Stunning scenery, skiing and snowboarding in India’s DESTINATION Himalayan retreats 26 Olde Banglore Beckons The quiet side of India’s Silicon 34 starry Journeys - Where to Go Valley Look to the stars for your next travel destination! BLOGGERS’ TALES 16 r Niranjan Das - Vythiri: The emerald Gateway IN PERSON 17 anuradha Goyal - Bewitching Personal travel accounts of Bomdila Southeast Asian travellers 18 puru - Nalanda: Lost Knowledge 29 Singapore: Audrey Quek’s
Faces & places passage to India 19 Mandip Singh Soin THE WELLNESS DESTINATION adventure is My Business 31 Yoga A Practice for Life Exploring India’s Adventure tourism sector
luXE LIFE 14 private Jet Charter The Uber luxury way of destination hopping in India 14
2 3 42
24 11 FOOD STOPS 24 Flavour of Southern India 34 and Mumbai A literary tour with recipes and a Michelin chef food guide to Mumbai WELLNESS & SPA 36 somatheeram Ayurvedic Hospital & Yoga Centre: The Best of the Best in Kerala
shopping 38 Woven Dreams of Desire Regional guide to fine carpets and floor coverings of India
IN SEARCH OF... 42 Heartland of India Seen through the lens of Rajesh Dhar
South Asia Select 48 sri Lanka Luxury Stays Quick guide & fast travel facts
The Accidental Tourist 52 Going to Gulmarg to Ski Unforgettable and unplanned - first adventure with snow SUBSCRIPTIONS IN Magazine is available on the newsstands as well as by subscription. For more information, please contact Circulation Department Indian Forts & Places Tel: (65) 6735 2972 or Cover Story The Royal Treatment 6 email: [email protected]
2 3 Editor’s Note
Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow! Editorial Team It still comes as a surprise to many but this little ditty is PUBLISHER equally applicable to the snowfields of Jammu & Kashmir, & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Himachal Pradesh and Uttakhand in India. Ski and Nomita Dhar snowboard enthusiasts from around the world are already in the know that these are some of the most pristine, scenic and EDITORIAL challenging slopes on earth for these adventure sports. The Syed Jaafar Alkaff Foo Yong Han time to visit them is now, as the season officially ends around Arjun Dhar March. The great news too is that those who are new to the sports can also enroll in Beginner packages that we feature in CONTRIBUTORS our Winter Thrills in India’s Alpine Country feature. India is Prionka Ray Ranee Sahaney one of the most inexpensive places on earth to learn to ski! Ranjana Rana Adventure travel in India, whether it is skiing, hiking, treks or river rafting — lots more is coming up in a BIG way. We CREATIVE PROJECT MANAGER were privileged to get an expert’s insight on this topic when Valerius Reza Boenawan
Ranee Sahaney interviewed India’s best known Adventure ADVERTISING Expert, Mandip Singh Soin for whom a ‘childhood hobby’ & MARKETING became a way of life — and ultimately his business calling! Jamie Ho Untold thrills and limitless excitement await the visitor in COVER PHOTO this multi-faceted land — And with the slew of fresh new Shutterstock developments, promotions and new facilities in the pipeline you can be assured it’s going to be one rollercoaster ride of PRINTING new adventures and discovery in India’s tourism landscape. IMAGE Printing Pte Ltd Adventure It’s a Luxe Life and the Royal Treatment is exactly what travel in you will get in our Forts and Palaces Guide. The Cover Story gives our selection of the best of what India offers in this MICA (P)188/04/2012 India— © Copyright 2013 by Sun Media Pte Ltd. All materials unique category of accommodation that money can buy. We in this publication are strictly copyrighted and all rights whether it is also have an article also in this issue that suggests private air reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without prior written permission of skiing, hiking, charter is one of the most convenient, hassle-free and thrilling the copyright holder All facts are correct at the time of ways to go palace-hopping—Just ask the well-heeled! publication. While every effort has been made to ensure treks or river the information that appears in this publication is correct Paradise ‘Lost’— and found. That in a nutshell is the at the time of production, changes might occur and Sun tourism story of Sri Lanka. After years of strife, the country’s Media Pte Ltd shall not be liable for any errors, omissions rafting— or inaccuracies that occur. lots more is tourism scene is making a comeback with a vengeance. Our South Asia Select features the Sri Lanka of today which will coming up in spoil you for choices. We start with recommendations for the A publication of a Big way best places to stay in this issue.
Nomita Dhar Publisher & Editor-in-Chief 20 Kramat Lane #01-02 United House Singapore 228773
Tel: (65) 6735 2972 / 1907, 2986 Fax: (65) 6735 3114 E-mail: [email protected] 4 Web: www.sunmediaonline.com 5 Contributors words
Prionka Ray Ranee Sahaney Ranjana Rana
Prionka has The author of this issue’s Ranjana Rana interviewed, cover story, Ranee gives an edited or Sahaney is no stranger interesting written up this to travel writing. A twist to travel issue’s Guest Contributions prolific travel writer planning in this from the and contributor to IN issue by linking region for the Magazine as well as its destinations and IN PERSON weekly e-newsletter IN astrology! Her column. She Touch, she also interviews own journey hails from Mandip Singh Soin for into astrology India and some great insights on began when she has lived in Adventure Travel in India. was 12, after Switzerland She also contributed reading books on and Hongkong before settling down substantially to the Sri Lanka section for this palmistry. Her successful predictions on in Singapore 15 years ago. Her favourite destinations are always edition. She has been a Consulting Editor for reading the palms of friends and family Indian. She says, “I love Mumbai, the past 12 years to the Outlook Traveller strengthened her desire to go deeper where I studied for three years, but group of publications as well as contributed to into this field. She later went on to do her I am absolutely and totally smitten Discover India, BBC Good Food Guide, India PHD in Astrology and she also studied by Benares, where my grandparents Abroad as well as yatra.com. In the past 25 years, Numerology, Vastu and Fengshui. A lived. This city is so anachronistic, that her features have appeared in India’s leading Reiki Grandmaster and Pranic Healing here I lose myself completely.” On newspapers and magazines on a variety of teacher, Ranjana also reads Tarot Cards. what inspired her when writing the subjects that include travel, culture, heritage, In addition to this she is also a past-life wedding story, she says, “Indians love jewellery, fashion etc. She has published a lavish regression therapist and innerchild and to love and weddings are where the coffee table book, Adventure Sites in the World, breathwork facilitator. Ranjana travels a emotions go beautifully overboard. I myself had an elaborate Bengali and also written A Travellers’ Companion: India’s lot as a consultant in her area of expertise style wedding in India, 18 years ago. North East for the Tourism Department (GOI) and also participates in many TV shows. It was a typical big, fat wedding and several chapters for Dorling Kindersley’s with countless rituals, constant dress India and Delhi Agra & Jaipur travel guides. changes, ample food and of course, She has also worked in the capacity of Editorial abundance of emotions. Weddings Co-ordinator for the Incredible India magazine, tend to get larger than life and that’s brought out by the Ministry of Tourism, the best part of an Indian wedding.” Government of India. Foo Yong Han
He loves action whether it is on screen (watching PICTURES movies or playing video games) or for real - sky diving or white- Rajesh Dhar water river rafting. Sun Media’s Rajesh Dhar lives in the City of Joy, Mumbai and is a graphic designer youngest editorial by profession. The 38-year old has a Bachelor of Visual Arts and took up correspondent also photography seriously in 2006. He takes great interest in focusing on loves to ride words people of different religions and their diverse cultures. He says he still and transport gets a great thrill travelling into the country’s heartlands and capturing readers into the now of the moment. He the spirit of the nation. Ultimately for him, he says his aim is to portray spent the last 10 years writing and editing all the possible “merits and demerits of human lives in our society for a variety of print and online magazines through my work”. in Singapore.
4 5 Cover Feature Indian Forts & Palaces
(Above) Ram Bagh Palace the ROYAL
Treatmentby Ranee Sahaney
ust a couple of months of some of the most intimate within the ambit of a world where ago, a galaxy of the aspects of India’s royals hailing from (sometimes) time seems to have country’s who’s who the 565-odd kingdoms that made stood still. from Bollywood, cricket up the country centuries earlier. The elegant, the subtle, the and the business One of the most enticing whimsical, the bizarre — the range community,J along with several attractions of holidaying in India of palaces boggles the mind. Yet politicos jetsetted into Jodhpur is to stay in one of these lavishly some of these heritage properties to join in the lavish 50th birthday appointed royal residences. This (either sold off to hotel chains celebrations of Nita Ambani, wife of came about with the need for or retained partially), fashioned India’s richest industrial magnate, the erstwhile royals to partially from the finest of materials and Mukesh Ambani, of Reliance fame. or completely convert them into services that money could buy, The party, of course, was at the luxurious hotels to ensure their are now perfectly successful, fabulous Umaid Bhavan Palace. upkeep after 1971, when the Indian professionally-run luxury hotels, The fantasy world of India’s regal government withdrew their privy where the regal trappings of past continues to fascinate and purses. Many of these magnificent yesteryear meld seamlessly with all intrigue us. Straddling the length palaces are centuries-old ancestral mod cons. Charting the landscape and breadth of the country are a properties (and quite a few in good of heritage palace hotels across host of exquisite palaces and havelis working condition)—and part of the country, clearly, it is the desert (mansions). They are rich repositories the allure lies the charm of living state of Rajasthan—the Rajputana
6 7 Umaid Bhavan Palace
of yesteryears, which offers the Swai Man Singh II. Ram Bagh Palace Gorgeously appointed interiors— richest and most opulent pickings. has been commissioned to run as a four poster beds and silken chaise the ROYAL Reinventing the courtly life and luxury hotel by the Taj chain since longues et al, transport you to a world of feudal pageantry they are 1972, two years after Jai died in a world of self-effacing glamour and perfect extravaganzas of luxury and polo accident. His internationally- luxury. leisure. From Aubusson tapestries to celebrated rani moved into the The choice of guestrooms varies Belgian glass, from silver-embossed adjoining Lily Pool where she from the luxury and palace suites to buggies to gold crockery, from polo continued to live till her death in the historical and royal suites. The playing elephants to gun salutes and 2009. Grand Royal Suites (Prince’s Suite Rolls Royces— we love Royal India’s Meanwhile, the hotel goes from and the Maharani Suite) served as dedication to excess. strength to strength attracting the personal chambers of the royals. Our list (for the well-heeled the well-heeled and celebrated The Presidential Suryavanshi suite is traveler who wants to enjoy a slice from the four corners of the a world of understated luxury and of royal living) does however throw earth as they come to sample the elegance. Riding and even a game of up some nice little surprise too. legendary offerings of Rajasthan , polo can be arranged on request. Incredibly many of India’s exquisite quintessentially steeped in Jaipur’s www.tajhotels.com/Luxury/ royal residences-turned- luxury bazaars and palace-museums, Grand-Palaces-And-Iconic-Hotels/ hotels have been given a new lease gardens and fortifications. High tea Rambagh-Palace-Jaipur of life with the growing demand on the terrace overlooking the lavish for them as an appropriate 47-acre landscaped environs merges setting for wedding ceremonials, gently into the dusk as the lights Umaid Bhavan Palace honeymooning sojourns and even come up one by one to delineate Jodhpur lavish birthday parties. the palaces’ exquisite proportions against the purpling sky. Located in this celebrated desert Lighted lamps guide the footsteps outpost Jodhpur’s sprawling Umaid Ram Bagh Palace of the folk dancer…while the sound Bhavan Palace, now a hotel with Jaipur of her anklets seem to herald the the Taj chain, has played host to arrival of the cocktail hour at one the likes of Madonna, Mick Jagger Slip into the gilded world of the of India’s most atmospheric and and Naomi Campbell. Home still to maharajas at Ram Bagh Palace in hospitable palace hotels. Tennis erstwhile Maharaja Gaj Singh, the Jaipur. This fabulous pile was the courts, a luxury spa, a shopping Umaid Bhavan Palace Hotel (one of home of one of the most beautiful arcade and the lovely swimming the world’s largest private homes) women in the world— the glamorous pool garden are added allurements dominates Jodhpur’s skyline from Maharani Gayatri Devi, married to to the palace’s classy restaurants, Chittar Hill, as does the fabulous 13th Jaipur’s polo-playing maharaja (Jai) manned by gourmet chefs. century sprawl of the Mehrangarh
6 7 Cover Feature uncover the layers of history embedded in the serpentine lanes of Udaipur and it glorious palaces. www.tajhotels.com/Luxury/ Grand-Palaces-And-Iconic- Hotels/Taj-Lake-Palace-Udaipur
Deogarh Mahal Palace Rajsamand District
Situated between Jodhpur and the lake city of Udaipur, Deogarh Mahal Palace seems to be caught in a time warp with its medieval setting. Yet the hotel offers every comfort for a modern-day visitor. Quintessential to the Deogarh experience is the personalized service…you may even get to dine Hotel Lake Palace with Rawat Nahar Singh’s family (who continue to reside in one Fort, where tourists swarm to explore Hotel Lake Palace wing) over a cultural evening on the its history— and some even to do a Udaipur beautifully mashal-lit terrace. bit of zipping from its ramparts. Wake to the peacocks’ cry on a This massive regal pile was Set upon the silvery waters of crisp Rajasthani dawn, tuck into commissioned to give work to his Lake Pichola, the four-acre milky- a thali full of yummy dishes for subjects by Maharaja Umaid Singh marble sprawl of the Lake Palace breakfast and then saunter off into during the great famine that hit the on Jag Nivas Island, is one of the the nearby bazaar for local crafts region in 1929. The yellow sandstone world’s most highly rated private and silver jewellery. All 50 rooms Indo-Art Deco palace (designed by water palaces—now run as a luxury reflect their ages-old Rajasthani Henry Vaughan Lancaster and spread hotel by the Taj chain of hotels heritage — Gokul Ajara, Moti Mahal over 26 acres with 347 rooms) with since the 60s. This secluded fairytale and Ranjit Prakash guestrooms date its lavish setting and period furniture, retreat offers exclusive holidaying to 1670— but all offer the comforts is now divided into three wings: the experiences for all occasions—be of every modern convenience. Residential Wing for the erstwhile His it for a honeymoon —or a writer Do take time to check out the Highness Maharaja Gaj Singh II and seeking fresh inspiration. Legend Deogarh-school miniatures dotting his family, the Private Museum and has it that it was created by a young the interiors. Meals at Deogarh are the Hotel Wing, commissioned in scion (Maharana Jagat Singh II) of driven by the freshness of home- 1972. Its 64 guestrooms are steeped the Mewar royals, to escape the grown fruits and vegetables, in- in Art Deco atmospherics. There’s censure of his elders who objected house milk products and oils. Later a small fee if you want to just visit to his hedonistic lifestyle. The only take a jeep ride with a picnic basket (10am-4pm, closed Sunday). access to his retreat was by boat— to one of the grand waterfalls or ride Don’t miss the fabulous 105 foot even as it is today. the rails on the toy train running high cupola, the amazing Durbar Memorable experiences can through the verdant environs of the Hall, billiards room, two marble be enjoyed amidst its mirrored Aravallis. Vintage car rides, riding, squash courts, an indoor swimming guestrooms, the private sit-outs treks are also arranged. pool and heritage spots in the jutting over the lake, the lily www.deogarhmahal.com palace. Another star attraction is pond, the swimming pool and the collection of murals drawn charming public spots. Pampering by Jodhpur’s court painter Stefan is the keynote of the services and Gajner Palace Norblin, a refugee Polish muralist entertainment and gourmet meals Gajner (near Bikaner) who fled here during the WWII. are the cherry on the cake. The Requests are entertained for riding, enchantment begins the minute Parrots chase each other amongst golf and jeep safaris. you step on to the boat from the the ancient trees, the demoiselle www.tajhotels.com/Luxury/ Gangaur Ghat near the City Palace cranes and black ducks on the lake Grand-Palaces-And-Iconic-Hotels/ complex, for the ride to the water dip deep to catch an unwary fish… Umaid-Bhawan-Palace-Jodhpur palace. Take time in between to then scatter wildly as a tiny boat
8 9 transporting visitors to the other end of end glides by… the priest Dholpur is famous for its stone rings the bell in the family shrine in the Mandir Chowk…guests drowsily quarries which supplied the loll on sun-warmed stone benches catching itinerant breezes wafting over the lake…Welcome to Gajner Raj for building the Viceroy’s Palace—one of Rajasthan’s most picturesque, out-of-the-tourist-path, palace—now Rashtrapati retreats. Once a hunting lodge for the Bikaner royals, Gajner (famed for Bhavan, residence of India’s its Imperial sand grouse shoots with the English Viceroy since the ‘roaring president, in New Delhi. 20s’), is now run as a heritage hotel (with four wings—Dungar Niwas, Mandir Chowk, Gulab Niwas and Nivas Palace into beautiful palace Champa Niwas) by HRH Hotels, resort with both a heritage wing Deogarh Mahal Palace owned by the Mewar royals. with gorgeously accoutered period Just a half hour run from the guestrooms, and a cavalcade desert city of Bikaner on the of newly structured cottages, Jaisalmer Road, Gajner has its scattered around swathes of own little sanctuary where jeep landscaped verdure. rides bring you up-close with Dholpur offers easy access to the blackbuck, chinkara and wild hog. legendary Chambal River, where The beautifully accoutered guest you can go crocodile spotting suites (13 historic suites and 32 and even take a jeep ride around deluxe suites) drowse in dappled those Chambal ravines, famed once sunlight under ancient trees amidst for their dreaded dacoits. Picnics the surrounds of rich foliage on a are arranged at the Talab Shahi scattering of landscaped verdure lake retreat surrounded by lush punctuated by stone court yards. forests filled with wildlife Mughal You can sign up for elephant rides, Shahjehan once hunted. Gajner Palace boating, jeep rides into the desert Dholpur is also famous for its with dinner on the dunes and stone quarries which supplied cycling trips or a game of billiards the Raj for building the Viceroy’s on the 1900s table. Candlelight palace—now Rashtrapati Bhavan, dinners can be arranged in the residence of India’s president, in sanctuary on request. In between New Delhi. Riding is also arranged those lazy bouts head for the Camel on request, as are tours of the Taj or Farm near Bikaner or the famous Rat Temple at Deshnoke. Nadesar Palace www.hrhhotels.com/grand_ heritage/gajner_palace Raj Nivas Palace Dholpur
Another laidback retreat, this beautiful red sandstone palace, run by a scion of the Gwalior royals, offers easy access to Agra with its iconic Taj Mahal, and Gwalior, renowned for its spectacular Fort. Dushyant and his famous mother Vasundhra Raje Scindia, Chief Minister of Rajasthan, have painstakingly converted the Raj
8 9 Cover Feature
Gwalior’s star attractions. The palace has also been the perfect setting for low key weddings for well-heeled and discerning patrons. www.dholpurpalace.com Nadesar Palace Varanasi
The atmospherics of the ancient city of Varanasi—the Benaras of old, is best explored from the luxurious setting of the Nadesar Palace, run now as a Taj hotel. Surrounded by fragrant swathes of jasmine and Falaknuma Palace marigold in a cool mango grove the hotel’s laidback ambience is the The Nizam graciously accepted Chapslee Palace perfect counterpoint to the dusty the offer. Greatly under pressure Shimla hustle and bustle of one of India’s for overshooting his budget for his most visited pilgrimage hubs. Its astonishing personal residence, the Exploring the Raj-era nuances of picture windows, overlooking the prime minister did not demur when Shimla (Simla of those times) from hallowed Ganga, have offered great the Nizam sent him the money to the charming Chapslee Palace gives moments of delight to streams compensate him for the lavish gift!!! you a whole new take on this most of celebrated visitors since 1835. Today even you can enjoy the popular of hill stations in India. Its ten guestrooms, done up in pleasures of that fabulous gift, thanks It is from their summer retreat in colours of the floral offerings to to the arrangements by the Nizam’s Simla that the British continued to the Ganga—marigold and lotus, family with the Taj group to run strengthen their rule from India to jasmine and champa, serve up it as a hotel. The splendour of the Singapore in an increasingly dense islands of tranquility and modern Nizam’s envy will continue to be web of political intrigue. Yet Simla day comforts. Scattered around the talking point for ages to come. was also the most glamorous social the palace are paintings from the Beautifully restored and refurbished hub of the Raj days. Chapslee, maharaja’s personal collection. the palace hotel offers visitors an the summer retreat of Charanjit Golf and spa treatments have been aesthetic journey of many delights Singh, Maharaja of Kapurthala, welcomed diversions at the palace. during a sojourn here in one of their is a beautiful little palace hotel www.tajhotels.com/Business/ 60 guestrooms. Don’t be in a hurry steeped in Raj-era nostalgia with its Nadesar%20Palace,VARANASI to leave. And of course the star period rooms and furnishings and attractions of Hyderabad city—an scatter of exquisite mementoes and astonishing amalgam of the old bric-a-brac. Savour the yesteryear Falaknuma Palace (Hyderabad of the Nizams) and the atmospherics amidst its five suites, Hyderabad super-new (after all its one of India’s library, card room, croquet lawn, top IT hubs) come as an added bonus. tennis court and tasty meals. It’s A massive pile of Italian marble www.tajhotels.com/Luxury/Grand- located near Auckland House spread over 93,971 sq m, the Palaces-And-Iconic-Hotels/Taj- School. Falaknuma Palace was painstakingly Falaknuma-Palace-Hyderabad www.chapslee.com filled with every imaginable luxury and cultural appointments from the four corners of the earth by Nawab Exploring the Raj-era Vikar-ul-Umra, prime minister of Hyderabad. No wonder his lord nuances of Shimla from the and master Mehboob Ali Pasha, 6th charming Chapslee Palace Nizam of Hyderabad, turned green with envy when he came here for a gives you a whole new take party. So when he extended his stay telling him how much he loved it on this most popular of hill the prime minster had little choice but to offer it as a gift to his ruler. stations in India
10 11 Destinations AlpineWinter Thrills in India’s
StunningCountry scenery, or many the alpine village resort of Gulmarg (2,730m), in the state of Jammu and skiing and Kashmir, summons up holidaying community. Skiing holidays F visions of leisurely summer in India are all the more enticing snowboarding in holidays and Bollywood stars from the as visitors can combine a favourite 60’s romancing each other amongst adventure sport with magical cultural India’s Himalayan its sylvan glades or just enjoying pony experiences. CNN International in 2010 rides past its beautiful golf course. rated Gulmarg as Asia’s seventh best ski retreats Gulmarg’s summer delights are the destination. stuff of legend for those in the know. Today, Gulmarg is one of the hottest After all Emperor Jehangir spent hours draws in the global skiing arena for the exploring the botanical richness of discerning winter sports enthusiast. its biosphere expanses and we are If anything the numbers of foreign
so thrilled that its winter offerings skiing professionals seem to have J&K Tourism Photo: are being recognised by the global only increased as word has spread of
10 11 Destinations
its natural virgin powders, off-piste expanses for the thrill seekers, and excellent facilities. High above the little resort stands Mt Apharwat (4,124m) in the Pir Panjal
Photo: J&K Tourism Photo: Range, which is the magnet for the daring skiing and snowboarding buff. It is the fabulous, untrammelled run down its pristine slopes, which has catapulted the resort into the adventure sports arena in India in a really big way. Ski and snowboarding enthusiasts from around the world seem to have more than doubled each passing year buffered by the confidence in the bountiful snowfall, uncrowded ski slopes, back country runs beyond the resort, world-class facilities and Indian hospitality at its best. Challenging Terrain
Gulmarg’s terrain is pretty steep and this makes for a really adrenalin- pumping run for advanced level skiers. In the winter of 2012-13 the hill resort resounded with the exploits of Australian skier—“Wolf Pack” who was reputed for being the best and fastest (Clockwise from left): Views of Gulmarg Gondola base station and scenery. The skier the resort has seen in time. cable cars go up to almost 4,000 metres The other enticement, especially for the beginner, is that it’s probably the who runs the Alpine Ski Shop here and most inexpensive place in the world Gulmarg’s also arranges accommodation in the to learn to ski. The Indian Institute terrain makes for cottages scattered around Gulmarg. of Skiing and Mountaineering here, Yasin and his team also provide lessons conducts regular 10 and 21-day ski a really adrenalin- and mountain guides. courses for different levels. The high Skiing is available at two levels at season is between late-December pumping run for Gulmarg. Beginner and intermediate to early April. This was originally the really advanced boarders and skiers can follow the Gulmarg Ski Club established in 1927 by 200m run from the mid-station hub Raj-era British skiing enthusiasts excited level skiers of Kondogri. For the more advanced by Gulmarg’s skiing prospects. level the gondola takes you up to International skiing companies of floor via a mid-station (the Kondogri Apharwat. Daily reports on snow repute have set up base to cater to Restaurant has many takers) to an conditions are also readily available the needs of the visitors. American elevation of 3990m to Mt Aphrawat. with the ski patrol. If you are looking avalanche forcaster Brian Newman Advance-level skiers and snowboarders to enjoy the more risky ungroomed, helped launch the Gulmarg Avalanche love that over 1,330 vertical metres of back-country (off-piste) explorations Centre. He has also set up an expert uncrowded snow-riding terrain. a mountain guide is recommended. ski patrol team. The resort is supported It’s not just the facilities which make Bunny slopes Poma lifts are run by J&K with a slew of top- of- the- line facilities Gulmarg so enticing, the ski patrol team Tourism on the snow-mantled golf and equipment to facilitate the winter in place too has had rigorous training course. The area is groomed regularly sports. Gulmarg has the world’s in avalanche rescue and medical aid to by Kassbohrer machines. second highest gondola ski lift set up international standards. One can hire The golf course is also the venue for in 1998 by Pomagalsky, the world- equipment for alpine and cross country cross-country ski training and racing. renowned French company to access skiing, snowboarding, ice skating, ice Another thrilling experience is heli- Mt Apharwat from the valley floor. The hockey, toboggans, sledges and snow sking, operated here by professional 2-stage gondola is operated by the J&K cycles etc are available from the J&K international companies stationed here. Cable Car Corporation under Poma government shop. Another popular For the less adventurous Gulmarg has regulations. The cable links the valley shop has expert skier ‘Chacha’ Yasin plenty of sledding and ice-skating.
12 13 Destinations
Patni Top
Apart from Gulmarg the hill station of Patni Top, close to Jammu is also Photo: J&K Tourism Photo: a fun place for skiing beginners; ice skating, snow ball fights and gentler snow activates make it a popular winter destination too. The months of snowfall in the state of Himachal Pradesh is an important highlight on the winter sports calendar. Lots of fun and adventure await heli- skiing experts as well as skiing buffs. Top hubs are the summer resorts of Manali (popular for those daring heli-skiing thrills), Rohtang Pass and the gorgeous Solang Valley. Snow-clad Narkanda Uttarakhand’s Auli (GMVN), the state tourism department, and Kufri bring out the hatted has equipment on hire as well as and mittened visitors in droves but In the state of Uttrakhand the accommodation. Hanuman Tibba, Deo Tibba, Rohtang summer resort of Auli, becomes a You can also enrol for one of their Pass and Chandrakhani Pass bring on major hub for skiing and snowboarding two courses, ranging from 7day-14 the heli-skiiers to these legendary in the dead of winter. With its days, in the months of January- haunts for the more daring. memorable views of the snow peaks March. The package includes basic of the Himalayas it offers a fabulous ski equipment and the lift facility, as back-to-nature holiday. Altitudes at well as food and accommodation. Auli is the hub Auli range from 2,500-3050 m and its Auli is also connected by ropeway of the annual surrounding terrain is marked by lofty from Joshimath, the longest run in pinnacles and picturesque valleys. Asia, from where you can enjoy the national ski From January to March its snowfields priceless extravaganza of the snow- competition held come alive with skiing enthusiasts. Auli bound Nanda Devi Range. The resort is also the hub of the annual national is also equipped with a state-of-the by the Winter ski competition held by the Winter art skiing facility, chairlift system Games Federation Games Federation of India, which give and artificial snow making system a nice edge to all the snow activities —arranged for the 2011 South Asian of India here. Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Winter Games.
BEST TIME TO GO
Season starts from mid-December right up to mid-April. Tourism Offices:
JAMMU & KASHMIR Uttarakhand J&K Tourism Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVNL) Assistant Director Tourist Bureau Tourism Department, Gulmarg Joshimath Mobile: 09419708180 Tel.: 01372-22781 Tel: 01954 -254487, 254439 Website: www.gmvnl.com
J&K Tourism GMVN Directorate of Tourism Rishikesh (Yatra Office) HIMACHAL PRADESH TOURISM Tourism Reception Centre AGM (Tourism) DEV CORP (HPTDC) Shervani Road, Srinagar Tourist Information Centre The Mall, Manali Tel: 0194-2452690-91, 2479548 Shail Vihar, Haridwar By Pass Road, Rishikesh Tel: 01902-253531 Website: jktourism.org Tel.: 0135-2431793 Website: hptdc.nic.in
12 13 luxeLife
Private Jet
Taj Air Flight Charter The uber luxury way of destination hopping in India
ith India’s economy growing private jets market represents in overdrive this past 12 percent of the global market, Popular Holiday decade it comes according to industry watchers. Charters as no surprise that And it’s not just the business Wcorporate India started looking at time community which is looking at private And now you can choose from a and money-saving alternatives in travel. jet travel. The leisure sector is revving range of holiday destinations with quick Reliance Industries , GMR, Bharat Hotels, up to a whole new world of sensations access to a landing site for a jet or a Taj Air, Oberoi Videocon, UB Group and experiences as well-heeled helicopter—be it a full scale airport to and Raymond, have been just a few of travelers sign up for a customized a landing strip in the back of beyond. the top corporate houses who’ve been private charter with family and friends Some of the top destinations: Agra, buying up private jets such as Cessnas, for an exclusive jaunt to their favourite oh the Taj, yes that glorious poem to Beech Kings, Bombardiers, Embraer, holidaying destinations. romance ’the teardrop on the cheek Falcon and Gulfstream for their needs. Today, one can buy a plane - for the of time’ the Taj Mahal! Private jets And the market seems to be growing ultimate in luxury travel for the really now wing over its riverside setting, exponentially. Till around 2005 there well-heeled (read crorepatis) or just offering you the thrill of your life at were less than 40 private planes in get together with a bunch of friends one of India’s top holiday destinations. India. The Business Aviation Association and hire one…. Luxury is no longer The aircraft is parked at the Kheria Air for India predicts 1,400 private just about clothes, hand bags, shoes, Force Station airport while you indulge aircraft including helicopters by 2015, perfumes, makeup and fancy hotels… yourself. By the way, Indian aircraft compared to some 500 today. It’s the ability to afford the luxury of usually get clearances within two days Founder and chairman of VistaJet a world of special customised flights, while foreign registered jets can take up Holding SA, Thomas Flohr, opines dedicated boarding areas, luxurious to a month. that, business aviation in India is on interiors, spacious and comfortable Hyderabad, the city of the Nawabs the cusp of the next phase of growth seating/reclining high-definition flat- is on everyone’s hot-to-go list for those because the number of such travellers screen television, Voice Over Internet on a private jet jaunt. It’s also convenient — “their DNA is very global” — is Protocol (VoIP) —even shower facilities since the airport has a fleet of Cessna poised to rise dramatically. India’s fast- and on-board chefs. Citation CJ1 and CJ2 jets stationed there
14 15 luxeLife
Photo: Joao Carlos Medau
(Clockwise from top left): Religare Voyages’ Dassault Falcon 2000; Invision Air’s Embraer Phenom 100; and Taj Air’s Piaggio P180 Avanti II
for hire. So prep up to pick pearls and your private jet to this city of lakes and Singh) fleet of multiple jets and turbo savour traditional biryanis, after a round royal splendour. props are ready to take you anywhere. of the amazing nawabi collections at the There are quite a few firms that have The fleet boasts of the Falcon 7X, Falcon Salarjung Museum, dinner and stay at come up in response to the burgeoning 2000, Hawker 800XP, Beechcraft 1900D, the fabulous Falunkama Palace, now a market demand for charters. If money King Air B200 and King Air C90. glitzy hotel run by the Taj group. is literally no object, next to buying a Air Charters India operated by Kerala, is where one can pump up jet or helicopter, a call to Taj Air, which the Stic Travel Group offers access to the excitement of an iconic backwater has been in business of exclusive private about 680 aircraft. Baron Aviation tour by flying into town on your charters since 2002, caters to domestic with a fleet of 25 varied aircraft has a own private vahan; there are ready and international travel with a Dassault unique stand— you’re not particularly facilities for private chartered craft Falcon 2000LX, Dassault Falcon 2000, and chartering a plane but actually renting at the capital’s Thiruvanathapuram, the Piaggio P.180 Avanti II. It flies to over a service with them. Invision Air has pepper port town Kochi and Calicut 150 airports in 56 countries. In India it a fleet of Embraer’s Phenom 100s and (Kozikode) airports. offers 130 destinations while commercial the larger Phenom 300s jet for charter. Jodhpur’s spectacular Mehrangarh airlines cover 71 destinations. The choice of charter companies and Fort offers zipping as an adventurous Religare Voyages’ (run by billionaire the destination to fly to is limited just diversion to guests. But you can also zip brothers Malvinder Singh and Shivinder only by your imagination. into town in a private jet to enjoy the pleasures of Rajasthan’s popular desert outpost with its uber-luxurious Umaid For more information Bhavan Palace— which has played host to celebs such as Madonna and her Air Charters India entire entourage. From Delhi, a Citation Tel: 91 12-44595300 or 9811120318 CJ2 private jet charter can get you there Email: [email protected] in an hour. A wildlife safari is definitely Baron Aviation, Mumbai enhanced if you get there by helicopter Tel: +91 22 3002 5252 or a small plane…You’ll never think Email: [email protected] about Ranthambhore or Kanha National Religare Voyages, New Delhi parks again without that little frisson of Tel: 91 11-66562200 delight about that private flight jaunt. Fax: + 91 11 66371499 Udaipur, one of the world’s most Email: [email protected] romantic water palaces was built here Taj Air, Mumbai as a private retreat in a fit of pique by Tel: 91 22-66011825, 91 22-66651081 the scion of the Mewar royals, because Fax: 91 22-26157555 his elders objected to his late night parties. Privacy and luxury are your twin Email: [email protected] Hawker 800XP Interior companions as you zoom into town on
14 15 Bloggers Tales
R Niranjan Das Vythiri – The Emerald Gateway
R Niranjan Das takes the long and winding road on his bike through the emerald gateway that leads to the fabulous Wyanad biosphere expanse
Vythiri envelopes him in a world of whirling mists, waterfalls and blue hills, which punctuate the carpet of lush verdure that typifies the terrain of the Wyanad region. Hopping from one side of the road to the other, bonnet macaques look on as the new visitor finds himself entranced by the curve of black tarmac translating into a series of nine hair pin bends serving up breathtaking views every step of the Thamarassery ghats and visit to the From the chained spirit tree, way as the morning chill catches the famous Pookote Lake. Niranjan rode to Pookote Lake him unawares as he rides on. Vythiri View Point marks the end where there are boating facilities, a At the first hair pin bend he of the ghats and one’s welcome small park and souvenir shop. The hops off at the side road shack to Wyanad district. The rolling road ahead leads into a mosaic to drink hot coffee, a hot spicy landscape hits all the right places of tea plantations and forested duck omelet and some mangoes as he stands bemusedly, where so enclaves. It may be misty and cold while tendrils of mist fasten many other travellers have been from October to February, but themselves on its surrounds. equally bereft of words. Look to the the summer months are a delight Back on the winding 14 km ghat left where by the road stands, the with gorgeous untrammeled views road his lungs gorge on the district’s iconic ficus tree marked by and balmy days. For Niranjan, the fresh mountain air… his head a chain wound around it. This is very sweeping vistas, the ghats and the swirls with the delightful scenery significant in Wyanad’s history. lake make Vythiri a worthwhile heading the other way from him. destination; there’s also the option Most of the journey feels like a CHAINED SPIRIT of staying in one of the numerous “forest ride” as it’s covered in a The story: Legend has it that resorts here. green canopy and when it clears the spirit of a tribal named up in some places, he is rewarded Karinthandan was chained to Blog note: R Niranjan Das’s by “mind blowing vistas with the tree after it started troubling blog titled ‘Tales of a Nomad…!!’ views of the valley.” travellers on this route. The tribal records his personal insights and As Niranjan explains it, for those helped a Britisher reach Wyanad experiences of the many places travelling from Bangalore or Mysore after crossing the treacherous he’s travelled. He goes on long to Wyanad, Vythiri is the last stop forest hills. However, to claim bike trips and will not shirk from before going down the hills. For that he had discovered the place, undertaking treacherous treks, back travellers from Cochin, Kozhikode the Britisher killed the tribal. The packing and train holidays. Many of and places like Kerala, Vythiri spirit of the tribal troubled people his writings have been reproduced is the gateway to the beautiful travelling on that route ever since in numerous in print and online Wyanad region. Highlights of his until he was chained to the tree publications. To read more, visit: trip included the drive through the by a priest! www.rajniranjandas.blogspot.in hotos: www.rajniranjandas.blogspot.in P hotos:
16 17 Bloggers Tales
Her blog on the hill town stood out as one of the most charming destinations in all her encounters with the land and the people in the North East. The beauty of the land and the simplicity of its people left a lasting impression
Bomdila is a picturesque hill town which is generally the night halt for folks heading for Arunachal Pradesh’s ancient Anuradha Goyal and beautifully located Tawang Monastery. Anuradha loved the bustling bazaar, the gossiping Bewitching Bomdila ladies, the colourful stalls and the amazing views of its surrounds. The old monastery at the end combs. The misty drive, she finds is photographs and copy of a photo of the main road dates back three at once thrilling yet scary. Id card. This can be done in Delhi, to four centuries. The hill town She gives some excellent advice Guwahati or Shillong. You have to also sports a new monastery. The to would-be travelers: In these specify which entry route of the government handicraft center lesser travelled tourist spots, no three available will you take and preserves the ancient traditions plans for trips here are carved what places you intend to visit of local artifacts such as mask in stone. One must be prepared and between what dates. Usually a making, furniture making, fabric for the unexpected, delays for permit is issued for 15 days. weaving, embroidery, metal crafts. example from a bandh, which The store here offers excellent force you to make alternative Blog note: Anuradha has been souvenirs. arrangements such as a stay at writing her travel blog for over India’s National Institute of a tea estate. To enter the state eight years and her blog was voted Fashion Technology, she reveals, of Arunachal Pradesh, she also one of 50 best blogs on travel helps them with designs and also reminds us, that you need an inner worldwide, many of them off-beat in getting them IP protection line permit that can be obtained destinations. To read more, visit: for their traditional designs and by filling a form and giving your anuradhagoyal.blogspot.sg weaves. Anuradha clearly enjoyed interacting with the local ladies when she encountered some novelties in the little-visited museum there. At Nag Mandir, midway between Bomdila and Balukpong, she discovers the popular cult that worships snakes in these parts. When not distracted by the gorgeous views she also encounters hundreds of beehives along the way and is left wondering how the locals manage to extract the honey from the hotos: A nuradha Goyal P hotos:
16 17 Bloggers
Tales Photo: Hideyuki Kamon
Puru Nalanda: Lost Knowledge
The ruins still offer today’s towers which was described visitors a lesson from history in the writings of Xuanzang were never found and the Puru, one half of the husband walls were cut to make a and wife team, Ekta and Puru, gate. He described how, “As we of the award-winning Shadows crossed the thick walls, we came The most famous part of the Galore web and blog, visited the to the courtyard. There were University is its giant stupa. History ancient university city of Nalanda nine hostels with rows of double related how the stupa was built last December. He finds the ruins storied rooms for the students. in in seven successive rounds. can still teach us a lesson or two Each room accommodated two Before the excavations began, it about tolerance. stdent boarders with brick beds was totally covered by earth and The University of Nalanda and shelves for keeping books. resembled a small hillock. Till a few is the first great university in Each teacher had a room to years back, tourists were allowed recorded history. Students from themselves. Every hostel had a to climb to the top but had caused Persia, Turkey, Greece, China and central courtyard which served damage to the structure. It is now Tibet came to study subjects as the meditation hall as well as off limits to people. Surrounding like theology, grammar, logic, community kitchen, each with the main stupa are several smaller astronomy, metaphysics, medicine its own water source. On one stupas, which contain the remains and philosophy. First established of such courtyards, the guide of the monks and scholars who over 1,000 years ago, it was once showed us the design of a bow, once resided in the university. a massive complex and centre the insignia of the Guptas. It felt The devastation first experienced of learning that can house up weird, the ruins of a glorious by the University century past made to 10,000 students and 2,000 past and an uncertain future. Puru wonder, “How could one have teachers! In fact, it was so huge There are plans to revive the the heart to destroy this priceless that the current excavated area of Nalanda University in Bihar but treasure of human knowledge. 14 hectares represents just 10 per it’s doubtful it ever reach its Nalanda today stands testimony cent of the original site. former glory.” to the death and destruction To get the most from the In 1193 AD, a savage, marauding religious fanaticism has brought on visit, Puru recommended one army of Turks under the brutal mankind.” He take heart that at least must buy the tickets and hire a leadership of Bakthiyar Khilji the damage experienced by the guide, otherwise the place will attacked and looted Nalanda. ruins during contemporary times “all be just broken bricks.” The Thousands of monks were has been arrested thanks to greater main gateway with its mighty burnt alive and even more were efforts in conservation. beheaded. And the library was Blog note: The web and blog site set on fire – the by the husband and wife team, Puru loss of lives and and Ekta called Shadows Galore knowledge were announced this year it was chosen incalculable. by Thrillophilia, the biggest activity The University travel curator of India as one of was lost to its ‘Top 25 Indian Travel Bloggers.’ history and You will find at their website was to remain “travelogues, photographs, talks buried until its about books, films and food, and rediscovery in the some memories”. To read more, visit: Photo: www.veda.wikidot.com 19th century. www.shadowsgalore.com
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Mandip Singh Soin Adventure is My Business It is also his passion. The founder and managing director of IBEX Expeditions explores highlights of India’s adventure tourism sector with IN Magazine
By Ranee Sahaney
ultiple awards winner, Mandip Singh Soin, is one of India’s leading adventure buffs, whose passion has taken him to some of the world’s and India’s most daring adventureM arenas. He has quite successfully married the ‘hobby’ of his youth with a full-fledged business in adventure tourism! Today he is also a respected and sought-after speaker for adventure tourism. He was last in Singapore for ITB Asia last October; Ibex Expeditions has earned numerous awards and was rated by National Geographic as among ‘The Best Adventure Travel Companies On Earth.’ He was nominated ‘India’s Most Versatile Adventurer’ by The Limca Book of Records and won the Ness Award for mountaineering and explorations by the Royal Geographical Society, UK. In 2012, he was awarded the ´Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award for Lifetime Achievement´ by the Mandip at ITB Asia President of India.
Can you tell us a little about the hottest trends in adventure tourism? There are two streams emerging. One is the soft adventure type where folks who have never really done any adventure are venturing forth to try their hand at some gentle walks in the Himalaya or overland jeep safaris etc. Two, are other folks adding on high adventure activities within their holidays such as river rafting or mountain biking or even trying a bunjy or scuba within their adventure holiday.
What are some of the best and most professionally run extreme sports available in India, and how would Panna Park you rate those experiences?
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(Left to right) Mandip at Lake Mansarovar in Tibet; Ladakh; Gangotri Waterfall; Nagaland Hill
We now have an operation which offers bunjy jumping and canyon swings which is a super operation with internationally qualified personnel and the same holds true for zip wire experiences. This is true for river rafting as well where a lot of our guides are internationally trained and have rafted some of the challenging Himalayan Rivers where regular trips operate. In terms of Mountaineering expeditions, here too we have well qualified personnel who are mountain guides who can guide mountaineers on trekking summits or indeed, a few specialist adventure tour operators can provide support for the overseas mountain expeditions that come to climb in the Himalaya. Garhwal and Kumaon in Uttarakhand hold their magic as What in your mind are the most popular activities in this do Sikkim and Arunachal for trekking, mountaineering, river area that attract foreign travellers to India? rafting and canoeing. Some of these states also afford unique The premier options are Himalayan Mountaineering winter trekking options like walking on the frozen river expeditions where there is ample scope to still make first Zanskar or tracking the snow leopard. ascents of so many Himalayan peaks that are unclimbed. The second is to just experience a Himalayan trek, be it on What has been the most exciting adventure experience a popular trail or a relatively unexplored trail, because a in India for you personally in all your years in this field? Himalayan trek is something quite unique unlike the Alps which Possibly the winter expedition that I led which was an are very developed. With the unique cultural intermix of the Indo -British effort in 1994 , to walk on the frozen river diverse Himalayan states, it becomes a very powerful magnet. Zanskar and to attempt to climb Stok Kangri a 6000m Incidentally, India has 77% of the Himalaya in its territory. peak in winter by Skiis. We were flown in a helicopter from Leh to Padum in a helicopter that was flown out from our What are the best adventure tourism destinations in the troops in the Siachen Glacier. We took local porters, guides country? And why? and cooks and gave them employment in winter which Some of the prime ones are, of course, the Himalayan states kick-started this winter tourism in that region; we had so themselves like Ladakh and Zanskar in J&K – good for jeep much fun staying in local Zanskari homes and caves along safaris, treks, mountain expeditions, river rafting, mountain the way for a week through the awesome Zanskar Gorge, biking, angling and more. Then there is of course, Lahaul and also called the Grand Canyon of India. We then made Spiti and the Kulu valley in Himachal Pradesh that are good an attempt on Stok in Snow leopard country as the only for all the above activities, and we can add kayaking as well. people in that wilderness.
20 21 FACES & PLACES
In 2012, Mandip Madhya Pradesh Singh Soin was awarded the ´Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award for Lifetime Achievement´ by the President of India
What is so unique about an adventure holiday experience in India? Say rafting, trekking, mountain climbing, skiing? I think it is the uniqueness of India where each of these sports is conducted in destinations that are uniquely diverse and as is known “people make the difference”! There is also delectable cuisine and an incredible sense of warmth and hospitality wherever people go, be it staying in a ski chalet in the Himalaya or a homestay in Ladakh; or a charming lodge in the forest with vernacular-style architecture which affords trekking possibilities.
According to a recent study by Trip Advisor some of the most chosen experiences are bunjee jumping, sky diving, scuba amongst Indians. Please comment. Sky diving is still nascent as there is only one operation and it is a bit expensive. However, this trend is primarily there in the age range of 25 to 50 and this is good and welcome, having been spurred by the media channels like Discovery and National Geographic, and also people’s ability to travel and see similar activities in other parts of the world and of course, in having the disposable income to partake of this.
Barren Island, India’s only live volcano, was out of Puducherry bounds. Now an agency like Karina Tourism and Adventure was talking about diving trips via a live Can you recommend a luxury adventure holiday, board in the waters by the volcano, which have already sahib-style? been sold out. You did a trip to the volcano some years We have been conducting these for high net worth ago with special permission. Your take on this as an individuals who want to experience adventure in luxury experience to look forward to. so not only do they have a higher ratio of staff per person Barren Island should not be opened for tourism and should but are also given deluxe vehicles and more comfortable be left for scientific studies/visitation since it is an extremely outdoor equipment such as luxury tents, hot water solar fragile eco system and would not be able to sustain tourism showers, hot water bottles, luxury dining tents with rugs, numbers. However, so long as scuba diving happens and its fresh coffee and percolators and delectable teas and around the Barren Island and conducted from a ship, I think cuisine that is high end. the impact should be minimal. Of course, proper guidelines of garbage, no feeding etc would be important to maintain. What would you recommend for first timers wanting an adventure trip to India? What was the most thrilling activity you enjoyed on your There is nothing like a combination of doing a jeep safari trip to the North East? into the Himalaya, absorbing the awe and beauty of the A trek into the fabled area of Kanchenjunga going up to mountain vistas, getting gently acclimatized and finally the Goecha La was one of the highlights, as was rafting down ending of with day walks and day rafting trips to come back the Siang in Arunachal. longing for more.
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What about veterans in the field coming to India for the first time? The sky is the limit as far as mountaineering expeditions go if they are so trained or Himalayan trekking is concerned. To make a 7000 metre ascent or indeed even a 6500 metre technically difficult ascent still draws many from around the world. One of the leading mountaineers of the US, who discovered mountaineer Mallory’s body on Everest, called Conrad Anker made the ascent of Mt Meru’s Sharks Fin route in 2011, which was deemed to be one of the most challenging routes ever done in the Himalaya.
What about activities for young adults? As I mentioned it can range between adventure sports between bunjy, zip wire, para gliding or skiing but certainly, many would like to try their hand at Himalayan mountain Mandip on Thermometer Egg on Rifflehorn biking which gives a physical challenge as well as a high sense of adventure going through Himalayan roads and high and What are some of the tips you’d give to someone who’d remote passes. like to follow your career path? Take the road less travelled and first check if you have a Some recommendations for an adventure holiday for a passion for the great outdoors and if you have a sense of family with a 60 + member and 12-14 year old? adventure and a zest for travel. A lot of the family adventures can either be in the Kumaon Second, get yourself trained in the outdoors by doing a with the charming Himalayan lodges combining walks, mountaineering course by which you can not just conduct looking for Himalayan birds or panoramic Himalayan views yourself safely but also take care of your clients and and doing this all through a jeep safari or indeed treating the understand the importance of minimizing environmental wider landscape of India as an adventure tourism destination. impacts. One must have the knowledge of how tourism For example, we do a lot of these in Rajasthan using forts works in general and have a keen eye for ecotourism and and palace hotels as well as boutique camps, interspersed responsible travel ethics. with short camel safaris, jeep safaris, and Marwari horse riding for those with the skill. How viable has it been to make your ‘hobby’ a business? Similarly, a walking wildlife safari inside a National Park Some tips? in Central India or a dedicated Elephant safari for 2-3 days I guess I was luckier as the field was fairly new and virgin whilst camping en route are all great family ideas, not to miss and today there is more competition for the startups. Kerala where one can walk with the poachers- turned-guides However for anything in Life, the first thing to have and not and stay in tree houses. waver in is ‘self belief’. Then the passion makes sure one does it well and at the same time one needs to display the entrepreneurial spirit to manage the business end of the venture. Not a bad idea to start small as the very nature of Adventure Tourism is different to Big/Large funded startups which are fine for normal tourism but not necessarily for adventure tourism where an organic growth gets you loyal View of Dhankar, Himachal Pradesh customers and the experience to handle clients safely.
22 Mandip on Thermometer Egg on Rifflehorn food Shops Photo: bombaybites.net Photo: Flavours of Southern India & Mumbai A literary tour of the best of South Indian staples and a Michelin chef’s personal guide to Mumbai street to 5-star food haunts
n Southern Flavours: Southern Flavours appropriately of ingredients in English, Tamil and The Best of South Indian introduces us to the culinary heritage of Hindi) for those who are approaching Cuisine, the author India’s four southern states: Karnataka, southern cooking as novices— By the Chandra Padmanabhan Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Andhra Pradesh. way, the book is perfect for the likes of looks at South Indian The photographs in the book are by these adventurous souls. What’s also Istaples — the dosa, idli and vada — N. Prabhakkaar. Priced at INR.599 ,it nice is she takes you practically step by which have been seducing Indian features a total of 153 recipes; 50 of step through the eight food sections- palates (and foreign too) from Kashmir these are new, the others a compilation Basic Recipes, Sambar & Kuzhambu to Kanyakumari for decades now. India’s of her favourite recipes showcased in (28 recipes), Rasam (12 recipes), Poriyal culinary repertoire is as rich and varied as the previous books. Padmanabhan & Kootu (26 recipes), Rice (16 recipes), her offerings dishes and integral to this is has drawn upon the rich experiences Snacks (32 recipes), Sweets (12 recipes), the exotic dishes of the southern states. and piquant experiments in southern Accompaniments (20 varieties). For those who love to experiment cooking from her mother- in -law, You’ll also like the fact that she has with all manner of cuisines Chandra relatives, close buddies and several started each section by telling you Padmanabhan’s Southern Flavours, cooks, to preserve them in her books what its about, the state from which brought out by Westland books, comes for posterity. the recipes are drawn and an index as a perfect addition to your cookery Southern Flavours— hardbound ‘introducing the names of recipes in that bookshelf. This is Padmanabhan’s and glossily appealing, features an section’ The recipes come accompanied fourth book; earlier she gave us Introduction, Buffet Spreads, Suggested by ‘notes’ and ‘introduction’ jazzing Dakshin (Harper Collins), Southern Spice Menus and Glossary—the last of which them up with some interesting tidbits of (Penguin) and Simply South (Westland). is particularly useful (it has the names information and insights which help the
24 25 India’s culinary repertoire is as rich and varied as her cultural offerings AND integral to this are the exotic dishes of the southern states
through the melting pot of cultures and cuisines —Mumbai. Travel with Vikas and experiment with him as he visits some of his favourite restaurants and eateries, selects their signature dishes, Vikas Khanna and helpfully modifies and adapts their recipes into a form that will be a boon to the home cook. Savour Mumbai Photographs are an important crowdpuller for Vikas who wants people Author Vikas Khanna takes a different to dip into his recipes again and again. route in Savour Mumbai — A Culinary He wants his books to gather the Journey Through India’s Melting wherewithal of the regular handling Pot. This Punjabi boy –turned Michelin by a devoted fan…dog years and haldi Chef, who hails from Amritsar and runs stains nothwithstanding…not moulder his own restaurant Junoon in New York, away gathering dust in a forgotten part has been vowing foodies the world of the bookshelf. Southern India over with his culinary expertise. Vikas Vikas’ wanderings around Mumbai really knows his business — after all he involved spending time rolling Roomali started off from Amritsar— a foodie Rotis and mastering Dhania-Pudina paradise par excellence— starting from chutney at Colaba’s Bade Miyan, folding the flavourful fare served at the langars Patti Samosas at Goodluck Restaurant in of the Golden Temple— to the palate- Bandra, to turning Patras at Govinda’s Southern Flavours: The Best of South seducing offerings of the city’s street in Juhu. The tempting aromas of street Indian Cuisine food. His cookbook Flavors First was food too pulled him into the narrow published in 2011. bylanes and khau gallis. Vikas’ book cook avoid making errors in following Savour Mumbai — A Culinary tempts you to summon up gourmet the recipes. When it comes to recipes Journey Through India’s Melting meals for friends from the choicest five- there are a string of them, which are Pot is Vikas’ salute to the city, which star restaurants…or just a simple chaat basic— thus giving first timers a nice has played a pivotal role in his made at some poky joint down a khau introduction to favourites from each journey. This, his 11th book, and galli. At least region. She also informs you about the rather than featuring his own recipes, 20 pages in his kind of utensils you’ll need for cooking is a commendation of the fantastic book are totally these dishes. She is particularly careful smorgasbord of culinary delights devoted to in giving the correct measurements, to on offer in this bustling metropolis. street food, the avoid those cooking disasters. Maharashtran , Gujarati, Konkan, Parsi, rest — the finest Padmanabhan’s new book also street food and five-star favoured and best recipes introduces readers to the variety of fare —all find a place in this excellent from Mumbai’s preparations for basics like dosas and selection Vikas has put together. famed eateries rasam, sambar and even rice. She also Featured in this hard bound, 312 — ranging from brings fresh light on chutneys, again a page book brought out by Westland, 5 star hotel culinary staple in homes across India. is Vikas’ celebration of his culinary restaurants, Keeping in view the growing concern experiences in the city during those iconic eateries for healthy eating she offers alternatives years in Mumbai when he was working and restaurants — such in cooking mediums (olive at the The Leela Kempinski Hotel. He in town. oil) which can be incorporated in holds us by the hand and leads us (with traditional southern dish such as Bissi his plethora of recipes culled from Savour Mumbai - A Culinary Belle Hulli Godhi. his favourite culinary haunts in town) Journey Through India’s Melting Pot
24 25 Destinations Olde Bangalore B eckons
Photo: Incredible India
ver a decade ago, A quiet garden city round of golf even on weekdays or for Bangalore (now called the races for that matter. Bengaluru) summoned - the other side of For those looking for the old up visions of quietude Bangalore, a visit around its O and sonorous splendor, Bengaluru’s image as monumental heritage sites and its a garden city that was ideal for living beautiful gardens and palaces will the retired life. The Bangalore of old the ‘Silicon Valley’ of surely put back the clock. The regal wasn’t just the idyll for retired folks, bearings of the city’s beautiful old it was magnet for those who enjoyed India hotels like the Taj West End and slow-paced living in a cultured, Windsor Manor, still ooze richly elegant retreat. By Ranee Sahaney nuanced etchings of their colonial The whirlwind of India’s IT revolution inspirations and stand tall on the city’s changed Bangalore forever. It was no landscape despite the mushrooming longer just peopled with folks living competition from younger, more brash out their days here after retirement, it contestants for patronage. Head out became a lively youthful hub energized for the sprawling verdure of the areas afresh with young executives swarming around the Race Course where you’ll the IT hubs that mushroomed around discover Old Bangalore flourishing the city. amongst those beautiful bungalows Gated condos came up to house and Raj-era villas set amidst brilliantly them and pubs sprouted every which coloured waterfalls of bougainvillea. way lending their own effervescent Drive down Crescent Road and soak might to the city’s social whirl. The in those old world charms or step oldies may have taken to the pubs like into Bridge Road’s favoured haunts, duck to water but they still prefer the bookshops — some shops, which tranquil retreats of their clubs with shut out the clamour of the new city. their blooming flower beds and a Make a tryst with theatre for the night
26 Destinations
Photo: Sanjay Kaul Photo: Incredible India
(On opposite page) Vidhana Soudha, the largest legislative building in India is Getting There in Bangalore
(On this page, clockwise from top left) Brigade Road at night; Lalbagh Botanical Garden; Pandi Curry
Photo: Incredible India Air: Bengaluru International Photo: Incredible India Airport has excellent connections with the major metros and cities followed by a leisurely dinner, say, by a cavalcade of fortified towers, in India. at pricey Jamavar at The Leela… Old battlements and turrets and clinging Rail: The city’s three railheads Bangalore you’ll find hasn’t gone away ivy. The 45,000 sq ft, sprawl of the are: City Railway Station, completely. Bangalore palace, originally an English Yeshwanthpur Railway Station Vidhan Soudha and the High Court, manor house, is as English as it can and Cantt, which offer good Bangalore’s iconic Legislative House of get both within and out. The furniture, connections the major metros and Karnataka state is a spectacular granite designed by Lazarus & Company is cities in India structure broodily overlooking the neo-classical, Victorian and Edwardian. Road: Kempegowda /Majestic surrounding by swathes of verdancy. The Wodeyar’s reputation for the fine Bus Station offer services by KSRTC Standing across the road is the red- arts is well established at the Bangalore interstate buses all over the state bricked Attara Kacheri, Karnataka High Palace where you will encounter the and to Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Court. Commissioned in 1952, the very finest right from the upholstery, to Nadu, Kerala, Puducherry, Goa and Vidhan Soudha is an amalgmation of the rosewood doors, from the stained Maharashtra. Private services are Neo-Dravidian, Dravidian and Indo- glass windows to the Belgium crystal also available on luxury buses such Saracenic inspirations. chandeliers. Star points for reflection as Volvos and the deluxe buses. are the stunning ballroom and the Durbar Hall.The palace gardens were Castles and Palaces designed by famed German botanist Tourist Bangalore Palace was inspired by Gustav Krumbiegel, the architect of Information England’s Windsor Castle and was Lalbagh and government botanist at Karnataka Tourism Dev Corp commissioned in 1887 by Chamrajar London’s Kew Gardens. (KSTDC) Wodeyar, the Maharaja of Mysore, Tipu Sultan Palace is now a museum Central Reservation Office, Badami who was so impressed with the and this flagrant sprawl of Tipu’s House, NR Square, Bengaluru. original. The Tudor- Gothic lines of personal residence was built between Tel 080-43344334/ 37. the structure have melded seamlessly the period 1781 and 1791. The 334- www.karnatakatourism.org with its verdant surrounds. Visitors acre spread of Cubbon Park is one of www.karnatakaholidays.net arriving in its precincts are confronted the city’s most important green spaces
27 Destinations
Culture & Art Kraze Bangalore is one of India’s most cultured cities. All year round you’ll find some interesting cultural activity being hosted at its many cultural venues such as the Bangalore Palace Grounds; look out for dates for exhibitions, concerts, fairs and festivals being held here. Ranga Shankara also arranges plays (all week long, barring Monday). Its well attended annual festival is held in the month of November. Visitors are spoilt for choice amidst Bangalore’s astonishing range of art galleries and exhibitions. Top venues include the National Gallery of Modern Art and the Karnataka Chitrakala Parishathl. A day of the races is highly Leela Palace Bangalore Mahajara Suite sitting room recommended. The city is home to some of the finest thoroughbreds - the lung of Bengaluru. With the city shopping hub. Look for local and of the world and the Race Course becoming even more congested, traffic international brands in those sparkling is where you will see them going running amock at rush hour, Cubbon show windows. Brigade Road is also through their paces. The racing is Park is the just the perfect retreat. The home to Patrick’s Church and Catholic all year round but the race course is great canopy of trees, flowerbeds and Club. busiest between May and June and walkways and the tranquil lotus- filled Amongst Bangalore’s oldest shrines again from November to March pond inspire the park’s reflective is the 16th century Bull Temple, a Located along the Mysore highway ambience. The park environs also living shrine, it is located amongst is the Wonder La Amusement Park, house a host of cultural institutions the serene surrounds of Basavangudi. one of the city’s most popular hubs and government buildings. This temple sports the massive bulk for entertainment for all ages. Its of a bull, carved from black granite. claim to being the country’s biggest The bull appears to be hovering over water and amusement park seems to Walkers’ Paradise its devotees. Legend has it the shrine have added to the lustre. The park Lal Bagh covers 240 acres at the was built by farmers to appease the features water slides, on-ground rides, southern end of the city and is a rampaging bull, who used to terrorized wave pools and many other thrilling horticulturist’s paradise. Be there in their groundnut fields. Featuring activities. In the evening enjoy the January and August when it hosts its traditional Dravidian inspirations the fireworks and a laser show. annual flower shows. Gifted to the temple holds its annual festival in city by Mysore’s (Karnataka of present January during which groundnuts times) legendry rulers, Hyder Ali and are given as an offering. Close by Shopping Tipu Sultan in the 18th century, this is is the equally well attended Dodda The major shopping hubs are one of the city’s unmissable attractions. Ganesha Temple. Another older Brigade Road, MG Road and The fountains, the flowering plants temple, the 9th century cave shrine Commercial Street which stock a and trees, the tranquil ponds and Gavi Gangadhareshwara Temple is huge variety of goods. The Cauvery the bird song makes this a walker’s dedicated to Lord Shiva. It also features Emporium on MG Road is good for paradise. It was given the status of four monolithic pillars and the idol of souvenirs and Karnataka handicrafts. Government Botanical Garden in 1856. Agni—the God of Fire. Stock up on incense, local crafts in The inspiration of the garden is Delhi’s The city’s major spiritual and stonecraft and expensive rosewood, famous Mughal gardens. The Lal Bagh religious sites include the St. Mary’s sandalwood items such as sculptured Rock that is found there is said to be Basilica Gothic church with its vaulting deities, trays and bric a brac. You’ll almost 3000 million years old. arches in the shape of a cross. Mother love the range of textiles, stoles and This iconic shopping landmark Mary’s is holding the Christ child in the jewelry in the city stores. The posh may be a tad racier from older times, sanctum. The church was ascribed the UB City complex features stores with but Brigade Road is still a popular status of a basilica in 1973. international brands and a food court.
28 GUESTS from singapore Person
Audrey Quek’s Passage to India Singapore journalist Audrey Quek discovers Assam and Tawang on her first trip to India
book and the “promise of she loves reading and travelling to find of the Sino-Indian border disputes natural beauty” prompted out and decide things for herself. had frequently surfaced in Audrey’s 55-year-old Deputy Foreign And it was a book that prompted course of work, and so, this visit A Editor of The Straits Times, her to travel to India. Audrey had read she said was, “professionally Audrey Quek to jump at the offer ‘A Passage to India,’ by E. M. Forster very satisfying.” The visit to the of her first visit to India in October in her teens and had been intrigued monastery revealed a display of 2013. This was her first trip to by the thought of the country and its photos showing the visits by the Arunachal Pradesh and Assam. people, wondering if it indeed was as Indian prime ministers and the Audrey had always been keen on colourful, as chaotic and as mysterious Dalai Lama. the world of news and had joined in parts, as Forster had made it out to While in India, Audrey attended the Foreign Desk after graduating be. Equally curious she was to find out, the 2nd International Tourism from university, lured by journalism’s if there were interesting characters like Mart as one of the two media promise of providing a ‘window to Professor Godbole and Dr Aziz in the representatives from Singapore the world.’ True to that promise, country as there were in the book. and her subsequent trip took her her current job allows her to shape The Tawang-Assam visit, therefore to Assam, where she spent five the coverage of world events and she said had, “hit the right buttons,” and of her 10 days in the country. social-political trends in the ‘World’ gave her the opportunity to travel the Audrey says that she was the only and ‘Opinion’ sections of Singapore’s “less trodden path” of north- eastern one in the group, who was new leading daily. In spite of the pressures India with its Himalayan peaks and the to India. She felt this was good as of deadlines, Audrey says her work is cool tea gardens. Her travel also took she came with fresh eyes and an never boring and she is always keen to her to the Sino-Indian border, where open mind. Her verdict was the seek fresh insights on a subject or even she visited war memorials and the trip did live up to the country’s a country for that matter. That’s why famous Tawang monastery. Reference slogan “Incredible India.”
Supported by India Tourism Board Person GUESTS from singapore
She found the diversity of ethnic the group moved to the tea garden packers. Tawang also has special groups, cultures and tourist attractions, resort the next day. The Kaziranga Golf appeal to Buddhists and she felt was especially an eye-opening Resort was a much-welcomed relief, with more could be done to improve experience. She says, “The folk dances I its serene surroundings and colonial the infrastructure, the roads, the saw at the Travel Mart were fascinating era buildings. The National Park, which power supply, the hotels, and, of and the lion dance performance is a UNESCO Heritage site, had a rich course, less red tape. reminded me of similar performances variety of wildlife as well as excellent As for food, Audrey practically back home except that the Indian lion hotels. According to Audrey, Kaziranga became a vegan during the trip. had a shaggy green mane and looked is a “huge, under-appreciated asset for She shared, “Indian vegetarian more endearingly friendly rather than Assam.” food has much to offer; cardamom fierce than those in Singapore.” Although Audrey didn’t stay at the tea is amazingly delicious, yet the India offered Audrey many Banyan Grove resort, she was very simple dessert made up of rice unforgettable moments, one which still impressed by its stately colonial charm. cooked in sweetened milk, the stayed in her mind was, “The ferry ride “It’s for people who love the Raffles in kheer, is particularly addictive.” on the Brahmaputra, with cool evening Singapore,” she says. The Lonely Planet That said, many Singaporeans breeze rippling through the waters award winner, Diphlu River Lodge, hankered for local fare after a against the setting sun which looked like with its eco friendly cottages and the while and one of their travel a huge red ball glowing in the sky. The Agoratoli, nearest to the National companions, a tour operator water and the sky glowed a deep red and Park’s Eastern Range, are other hotels fished out packs of instant noodle. purple. It was breathtakingly beautiful. she found impressive. “It was very odd to encounter You almost forget that you are crammed Audrey’s time in Guwahati, the city ‘Singapore noodle’ on the menu together with other passengers, cars and with excellent eateries and shopping in Tawang,” she says, though she luggage on that vessel.” was short, but she did manage to admits that it was nothing like the buy a “lovely eri silk shawl, an Assam one in Singapore. Instead, it was Cherished Memories specialty there. She found it unusual essentially, “lots of Hokkien mee that the silkworms were not killed in fried with chicken and carrots.” Another cherished moment was the production of the threads and On a final note, “India is like the “dawn at a tea garden” in Assam the scarf now serves as a “treasured a kaleidoscope,” says Audrey, where she found the trees outside reminder” of her visit to the state. “full of many shimmering facets their cottage, “bathed in a golden According to Audrey, “Assam has that change with every turn.” In early morning light” with only the gems to offer to the tourists. It is well hindsight, even the night spent in birds breaking the silence with their connected and has good hotels for the bug-ridden guesthouse seems occasional twittering. visitors who value creature comforts rather amusing to her. “It is part Apart from the beauty of the scenery, and are willing to pay for it.” On of the rich experience that India Audrey found herself being charmed the other hand, she feels it might offers,” she says, “the ying with the by the locals too. She remembers how, be harder to promote Tawang and yang. I am sure Professor Godbole “During a lunch above the clouds, 400 Arunachal Pradesh because of the would agree!” she adds, referring metres high on a mountain near Ptso requirements like, special restricted to Forster’s book. Her advice to the lake, a soldier from the Indian army area pass in addition to the visa. Also, Singaporeans travelling to India had come up seemingly from nowhere the remote mountainous location is to go without preconceptions. to offer me an umbrella when it started means that you need to take either a “What you need are open eyes and to rain! His surprise gesture on a chilly special charter flight or a bumpy drive a sense of wonder, and you will not autumn day was deeply appreciated up, making it better suited for back- be disappointed.” and so was the lunch that was courtesy of the Indian army. Equally charming was the “hot masala tea” that was India is like a kaleidoscope, offered to her and the evening chats with the friendly folks who ran the full of many shimmering hotel in Tawang. On the downside, was the memory of the assorted insects that crawled in from facets that change the nearby fields to their rest-house in Assam. There was no such problem when with every turn Yoga a practice for life The following are excerpts from India Tourism Singapore’s publication on India titled ‘The Welness Destination.’ Travel agents wishing to receive it please contact [email protected]
oga has evolved over thousands of years to embrace a wide range of styles and disciplines. The word yoga means “union” in Sanskrit, the language of ancient India, Yand its significance has never been more relevant today. Many people think that yoga is just stretching. But while stretching is certainly involved, yoga is really about creating balance in the body and mind through developing both mental strength and flexibility. This is done through the performance of poses of postures, each of which have specific physical benefits. There are many types of yoga that are practiced but almost all styles are based on different postures and it’s important to find the right style for you.
Supported by India Tourism Board Jnana Yoga is the Kundalini Yoga Yoga is It is the most powerful form of Yoga of Knowledge yoga and focuses on awakening the This is not knowledge in the intellectual energy which is found at the base really about sense, but the knowledge of Brahman of the spine. Kundalini is, without and Atman and the realisation of their a doubt, one of the more spiritual creating unity. There are seven stages to Jnana, styles of yoga. It focuses on breath involving study, self-realisation, desire, and and movement and challenges balance in protection of the mind. This form of yoga its students both physically and develops indifference to objects and non- mentally. attachment with the world. the body and Swara Yoga mind through Hatha Yoga Swara yoga focuses on controlling It is the most popular form of yoga and manipulating the flow of breath developing practiced in the western world. It is into the nostrils. It demonstrates that the use of yoga postures or asanas. the flow of breath dominates each both mental Hatha yoga attempts to balance the nostril alternately and regularly. The mind and body via physical postures or flow of breath changes from one ‘asanas, purification practices, controlled nostril to the other periodically, thus strength and breathing, and the calming of the mind balancing the entire system, which is through relaxation and meditation. the key objective of Swara Yoga. flexibility Raja Yoga Mantra Yoga The aim of Raja Yoga is self-realisation or Mantra Yoga is an exact science where the liberation. However, the masters simplified its mantras are signposts to the wandering mind, technique so that everybody could practice it steering it to an ideal state for meditation. easily and safely to improve their physical as well Repetition of mantras completely engages the as mental health. Raja Yoga focuses on directing mind, offering a means of getting closer to the one’s life-force to bring the mind and emotions divinity within. into balance. The aim is to focus on an object of meditation or on the lord himself. Power Yoga Power Yoga is the western version of the Indian Kriya Yoga Ashtanga Yoga which emphasis on developing The practice of Kriya Yoga is based on breath, one’s physical flexibility and nurtures the desire the brain and the spinal cord. The goal of Kriya for self-discipline. Power Yoga moves more Yoga is union with the divine. It works with the quickly than regular yoga, and as such gives spiritual energy located deep within the spine. more cardio output. In regular Yoga, the focus is Since Kriya Yoga is based on breath, you can on holding one’s posture, but in Power Yoga the practice this special technique during the whole focus is on the movement. day and in whatever activity you do. Bikram Yoga Bikram Yoga class is a 26-posture (Asana) series that is done in a heated room set to 105 degrees. Every posture is intended to be practiced in a given order, to the best of one’s ability. The heated rooms ensures the flushing out of toxins, among other benefits. This yoga is a medicine, a process by which the individual can reverse the effects of poor posture and chronic ailments. In a relatively short period of time and with regular practice, the body will transform, gaining in strength, stamina and flexibility. Feature Nicobar & Andaman
Starry Journeys:
WhereAstrologer Ranjana Rana looks to the stars to help you decide your plans for travel destinations in India in 2014 to Go
he whole universe moves according to Aries the movement of the (March 21- April 20) planets. Around us, the They are energetic people who enjoy weather,T seasons, day and night are all being in control. They would love to influenced by their movement; even drive to the mountains and once they flowers, fruits and vegetables, animals arrive at their destination, they would like and birds, so why not us humans? to test their competitive skills at trekking, Since ancient times in India, it mountaineering or even skydiving. hasn’t been uncommon for people, The best choice for them would be whether they are leaving for an to explore the arounds of Gangtok, important trip or a long-awaited Darjeeling, Sandakphu or even do the adventure, to consult astrologers more adventurous climb to the Base to find out the most powerful Camp of Mt. Everest on the Khumbu astrological influence that will impact Glacier. Hot ballooning in Rajasthan or on their plans. tiger-spotting in Ranthambhor National Astrology can help you through Park are also good options. a day-to-day analysis of best travel plans and destinations to visit, according to your zodiacal sign. All Taurus zodiacal signs love vacations, but all (April 21- May 21) like to travel in different ways, some Taureans like to maintain their are more adventurous and seek the comfort zone and the warm secure unexpected, while some are more feeling of a home environment structured. Astrologist Ranjana Rana wherever they go. The relaxing luxury
34 35 Nicobar & Andaman Feature
spa such as Ananda In the Himalaya at Rishikesh and Kanatal near Mussoorie Virgo Sagittarius are good choices. Even staying in a (August 22 –September 23) (November 23- December 22) beautiful palace or haveli resort in They are perfectionists who like to be They are keen travellers who like to Rajasthan or a luxury houseboat in the working. They would rather be building satisfy mind, body and spirit. They love Kerala backwater is worth exploring. a home to live in, which they consider to take as many vacations as possible the ideal vacation for them. Also, when if they can afford it. They like travelling they return home from their travels to exotic lands like the Rann of Kutch Gemini they like to talk about the new cuisines or go on a jungle safari to see the wild (May 22- June 21) they’ve enjoyed. They would enjoy a life of Ranthambore or the Gir National They like to visit two places at one trip of wine tasting at the vineyards of Park in Gujarat. go, engaging in anything new that Nasik, the relaxed atmosphere of the stimulates their mind such as museum Dal Lake in Srinagar and the boutique hopping, shopping, nightlife, musical resorts of Rajasthan. Capricorn events, parasailing or scuba diving are (December 23- January 20) the mix of activities they enjoy best. They are business-oriented people Stimulating places would be Goa, Libra who like to mix business and pleasure. the beaches of Kerala or even the (September 24- October 23) The preference would be for more Andamans. They are fun loving people who city-oriented holidays so they’ll visit want good amenities, fine dining and places like Hyderabad with its Salar sophisticated culture, but, they also Jung Museum, and the historical Cancer enjoy being in the outdoors. They love places in Mumbai, Calcutta, Delhi and (June 22- July 22) to have company while travelling. They Chandigarh, which they find utterly They are family-oriented people who would enjoy the deep-forested high- stimulating. would enjoy the sandy beaches of Goa, end resorts at Ranthambhor, Jodhpur Kerala and Puri in Odisha, with their and Udaipur, Munnar and other places families. The sound of the waves of the in Coorg, Kabini near Nagarhole Aquarius sea relaxes their mind. National Park and Wyanad in the (January 21 – February 19) Western Ghats in the south. They take great pains in planning a unique vacation, no matter where they Leo go and what they plan, the bottom line (July 23- August 21) Scorpio is their intellect must be stimulated. They like to travel in style and prefer (Oct 24- November 22) But they also seek satisfaction for their only five-star accommodations. They They prefer vacations on a deserted innermost spiritual needs. For them like to dine in first class surroundings. island or a resort with their loved Agra, Varanasi, Tirupati, Sabarimala and Since the sign of Leo rules royalty, ones. They would enjoy a holiday in Shirdi are good options. travelling to Rajasthan and visiting the a houseboat in Kashmir (complete beautiful forts and palaces of Jaipur, with shikara rides!) as well as staying Jodhpur and Udaipur makes them feel on the floating cottages in the Kerela Pisces at home. backwaters. (February 20 – March 20) They like being near bodies of water bodies of any kind and consider them Adventure in Ananda in the Himalayas. the perfect getaway. The elegance Photo: Incredible India of their vacation is captured in their camera. A trip to Goa, Puri, Konark, Kerala backwaters are good to go.
Jetavana Sravasti in Uttar Pradesh. Photo: Incredible India 34 35 spa & Wellness
here are some very good reasons for Somatheeram Ayurvedic Hospital & Yoga Somatheeram Centre being selected as T India’s leading wellness Ayurvedic centre. They were selected in India’s Ministry of Tourism’s annual National Hospital & Tourism Awards under the category, ‘Best Wellness Center’ for 2011-2012. There are currently over 2,300 spas Yoga Centre: in India, with many more expected to come up in the next few years, so it must have been a particularly gratifying experience for Somatheeram Best of the Best to accept the coveted award from Dr K Chiranjeevi, Minister of State with Check out India’s best wellness centre Independent Charge for Tourism,(GOI) in the presence of the President of when visiting Kovalam, Kerala India, representatives of the country’s travel trade and several celebrities. The spa and wellness market has hub for holistic wellness practices with been registering a 30 per cent year- its ancient tools such as Ayurveda, Sea-side Appeal on-year growth in India, making it yoga and meditation. the fastest growing segment in the Those who have a holistic Somatheeram’s attraction lies also hospitality industry, as revealed at approach to health should consider in its appeal as a seaside destination Global Wellness Tourism Congress Somatheeram Ayurvedic, which has spa amidst lushly verdant environs of (2013) in New Delhi. Wellness Tourism received Harpers & Queen Travel ‘God’s Own Country’ – Kerala. The state focuses on prevention, personal Awards in 2002 as the ‘Best Ayurvedic is alsoone of the world’s top holiday growth, mind-body harmony, and Body and Soul Retreat’; Spa Asia destinations. The timeless ebb and healthy living as opposed to Medical Wellness Media (Singapore) showered flow of the tide of the waters of the Tourism, which entails procedures it with the “Best Ayurveda Centre Arabian Sea at Kovalam holds you in a that are corrective in nature, episodic, Crystal Award’ in 2005. Since its hypnotic spell… even as the rhythmic clinical and treatment-based. inception in 1989, Somatheeram has movement of practiced hands easing There is a huge influx of inbound grown to become not only India’s away the stress inch by inch seeming visitors seeking both spiritual and premier Ayurvedic spa but also one to reflect the rhythms of the ocean’s physical sustenance for stressed-out of the top spas in the world. It has swell. For centuries the world over, spas bodies and minds to India, which is been classified as ‘Green Leaf’ by the and healing places have been usually reputed for centuries as a major global Government of Kerala. sited by the sea or ocean. The fresh sea
36 37 Somatheeram’s Top Selling Packages
• Beauty Care Package in which the treatments Photo: Somatheram comprise herbal face packs, oil massages followed by herbal teas and steam baths • Stress Management Package comprising a holistic combination of yoga, meditation and Ayurvedic therapies. The treatment is given for 3-4 hours daily—over a period of 7 or 14 days (depending on your need or choice) It includes rejuvenation massages and Dhara, Njavarakizhi, Thalam, herbal steam baths, mud packs etc. and orally taken Ayurvedic medicine • Slimming Package is an Ayurvedic weight reduction programme, which includes herbal powder massage and treatment with various medicinal herbal oils. Massages are given for 28 days. In addition there are medicated steam baths and oral intake of herbal juices and infusions. Its also backed by A special Ayurvedic diet plan during treatment breezes and steady movement of the waves leaves one calm, and • Body Immunisation Package is Ayurveda’ at peace with the world. great defense against the ageing processes in Somatheeram was started in 1989 and was the dream of one man, the body by putting a stop to the degeneration Polly Matthew (living in Germany with his family) to bring to the of the body’s cells and to strengthen the body’s world the amazing benefits of India’s traditional healing practices immune defense system. Recommended for of Ayurveda. It was in his own home setting in Kerala that he set up both men and women before they hit the age a well wellness centre. The tropical garden setting overlooking the of 60 it involves Rasayanas (very specialised sea is scattered with cottages built in the traditional Kerala-style to Ayurvedic medicine) and purifying the body merge harmoniously with their surrounds. He would offer at his new and sweating it out through Panchakarma ocean-side retreat three of the most important gifts from ancient and Swedakarma. A 28-day programme it India: Ayurveda, yoga and meditation. incorporates body massages, Snehapanam, The people manning the wellness activities there are experts in Virechanam, Nasyam, Snehavasthi, Dhara, their fields, so you know that you are in good hands. Each patient Pizhichil, Njavarakizhi, Tharpanam, Sirovasthi, entering this serene world gets personalized attention for their Karnapooranam along with medicated steam individual constitution. On arrival patients meet up with one of the baths. doctors for the first consultation. A check-up follows along with • Body Purification Package is a lovely a detailed questionnaire about one’s lifestyle. Based on this, the detox session to zap those terrible eating doctor charts out an individual treatment course and food plan. habits, lifestyle aberrations etc.which result Often this is followed by a two-hour general massage by two in the imbalance of the Tridoshas. The 15- therapists, to relax and place one in a calm frame of mind. Whatever day treatment involves Snehanakarma (oil the treatment you get for your individual needs, on the following days application), Swedanakarma (sweat treatment) at the spa there’s always a period of relaxation so that the treatment is and Panchakarma (purification). In addition more effective. Daily yoga and meditation sessions help underscore the there are body massages, Snehapanam, Nasyam, entire process of liberation from stress and distress to body and soul. Virechanam (a, medically supervised purgative Diet is an integral part of the treatment and your dietary needs will be treatment), Snehavasthi, Dhara, Pizhichil, charted out according to your individual Dosha (one of the three body Njavarakizhi, Karnapooranam, Tharpanam, energies that govern a person’s physical constitution). These meals can Sirovasthi, steam baths and oral herbal be enjoyed at their ocean-facing restaurant’s terrace. medicines. Kovalam beach is offers some additional touristic highlights. • Rejuvenation Package This treatment gives Some of the packages on offer also includes a traditional Kerala the tired old cells and tissues a nice overhaul — backwater cruise. The resort has an Internet café and WLAN refreshing and rejuvenating the body’s systems Internet access and also arranges cultural performances for its in order to preserve the balance between body, guests. On the Wellness front the resort’s packages include cost of mind and soul. Synchronised body massages accommodation, treatment, yoga, meditation, Ayurvedic full board with medicinal oils and cream co-ordinated by and other services (such as transfer to and from the airport). The along with Sirodhara, medicinal steam baths and Panchkarma (body cleansing) packages follow selected regimes. oral medicine are administered over a period of For current rates and more info you can log on their website: 7-14 days, for 90-120 minutes daily. http://www.somatheeram.org/en/ayurveda
36 37 Shopping
Woven Dreams of Photos credit: Memorable Carpets credit: Memorable Photos Desire A region by region guide for some of the world’s finest carpets and floor coverings in India
n a time not so long ago, Oriental carpets and rugs to drape their manufacture of hand knotted carpets the names of places like mansions and fortified places…their by emperor Akbar who brought in ‘Srinagar, Lahore, Amritsar, exquisite penthouses in London or New carpet weavers from ancient Persia Sind, Multan, Mirzapur, York or their huge ancestral piles back to the royal ateliers of the palaces. It Allahabad’- rolled off the in the English countryside. brought in some of the elements of Itongue with practiced ease from the design and refinement. exquisitely dressed merchant, with Common motifs in carpet design his turned up curly-toed slippers and An Ancient became the Tree of Life, the Bird of elaborate turban atop a fair brow and Paradise, the circle and with some blue eyes, as he ticked off each item Craft Indian influences in time, the lotus as it was carefully laden on to the Weaving is ancient craft in India, and even the swastika. Dominating sailing ship bound east – to Europe. that is steeped in the cultural hues were those of the new Persian And the merchandise? Jewels…not inspirations drawn from humble colour palette the ‘haft rangi precious stones hewn from the earth, villages. There’s little doubt that one (harmonious combination of the but woven dreams in jewel tones from of the most enticing products to leave celestial seven-colours) style of tile the hands of some of the finest carpet those ancient looms are carpets and mosaic — the green (Moon), red weavers in India, the great gem in the floor coverings. The art of carpet (Mars), deep blur/turquoise (Mercury), English crown. weaving in India reached its zenith gray (Jupiter), white (Venus), black Yes, privileged and moneyed Europe in the 16th century in Mughal times (Saturn), yellow (Sun), symbolizing just could not get enough of those with the introduction of the organised paradise and divine beauty on earth.
38 Shopping (Left to right) Kashmir Namdha; Isfahan Persian Rug; Kashmir Chainstitch Tree of Life Photos credit: Memorable Carpets credit: Memorable Photos
Hand knotted Treasured The carpets brightly hued and highly The range of patterns and colorings Collectibles refined were hand knotted dreams in are drawn from the spectrum of nature Indian carpets are marked by their silk featuring a mind boggling 4224 —or — if you prefer geometrical refined elegance, superb finish and knots per square inch if not more. In weaves, its all there. Check out the timeless beauty and continue to be time the art of carpet weaving on Indian quality of a hand woven carpet by the treasured collectibles. Primary carpet soil continued to flourish, eventually, tightness of the weave and the density weaving centers, which continue to absorbing modifications combining of the knots. The tighter the weave and dominate the trade from the ancient royal needs and the influence of the more dense the knotting, the higher its times, are the Kashmir Valley, Uttar native Indian arts. durability and value, apart from a much Pradesh, Punjab and Haryana and Both wool and silk were the favoured neater design. For flat weave carpets (an Rajasthan. materials for hand knotted carpets. integral part of India’s weaving heritage) Latecomers they may have been During Mughal Jehangir’s reign even you have a choice of wool and cotton but the likes of Madhya Pradesh and pashmina was used with the knot durries and kilims. Himachal continue to produce vibrant count rising higher still—making them gorgeous works of woven art resembling miniature paintings all the rage. Given the emperor’s deep interest in botany it is no surprise they featured many floral elements. Overtime local artisans started replacing the Persian kairgars in the great karkhanas introducing many Indian influences to the craft. Sadly for rugs and us today carpets whose provenance dates back the 16th and 17th century are privately held or to be found in museums. However India today is one of the world’s top manufacturers renowned for its superb range of carpets and floor coverings of the highest quality. You can pick up hand-knotted woolen carpets, tufted woolen carpets or gabbe woolen carpets and handmade woolen durries. If it’s silk you yearn for go for a pure silk carpet or one, which is a mix of both wool and silk, or cotton and silk. Kashmir Wool Carpet
39 Shopping
offerings. The most prolific centers Shahjahanpur, Hardoi and — Agra, the the mass production of low quality and of duree and kilim production are home of the Taj Mahal, built by that medium-range pile carpets. You can Haryana, Punjab, Karnataka, Tamil great connoisseur of all things fine and also pick up Persian, plain embossed Nadu and Orissa. From Punjab look for beautiful, Mughal Emperor Shahjean. and Tibetan carpets, silk and Indian stunning geometric motifs, from Orissa Akbar set up ateliers at Lahore and wool carpets, cotton rugs and carpets and Andhra Pradesh the ubiquitous ikat Agra to produce some of the most and even jute, bamboo, grass and coir pattern Karnataka’s Navalgund durees exquisitely fashioned hand-knotted floor coverings here. also popular as of Karnataka, also carpets for the royals, which would known as jamkhans, feature parrots feature Persian, Turkish and Central and peacocks woven in shades of green Asian designs. In Agra you can find both Rajasthan Photos credit: Memorable Carpets credit: Memorable Photos and yellow rust and black. the traditional as well as new designs. Rajasthan’s weaver community has Its weavers continue to maintain the been are traditionally noted for its fine- traditional”calling out” system in which quality hand-knotted woolen carpets Kashmir the master weaver follows the design (80 knots to 120 knots) and floor and keeps calling out to the weavers the coverings with the major hubs being Valley colors to be used for each knot. Agra Jaipur, Ajmer, and Bikaner. Contributions The Kashmir Valley produces some is renowned for its high quality hand- also come from smaller townships of India’s finest, softest and purest silk knotted Persian, Turkish carpets using such as Tonk, Barmer, Chaksu and and woolen carpets. They are inspired natural dyes. Manaharpura. Predominant colours in by both traditional Persian designs and the palette were blue, red, and shades the splendour of Kashmir’s legendary of purple along with some light green natural beauty. Srinagar was a major The art and deep blue. Afghani influences could carpet-weaving hub. The Kashmiri be found in the vibrant colouring and carpets, which undergo a laborious of carpet geometric motifs. Predominant patterns process, show strong influences of from Rajasthani carpet ateliers were the Persian splendour. The world adores weaving in dushala, charkona, mehrab and shikar them for their silken magic, exquisite along with the traditional Indo-Persian beauty and deep refinement; a carpet India reached offerings. Carpets of the highest order with a pure silk pile rendered on a featuring 400 to 600 knots per square 20% cotton yarn base with 400 knots its zenith inch are now probably only available on per sq inch is said to be an 80% silk order here as against the more common carpet. Kashmiri weavers are richly in the 16th counts of 16 to 36 knots now available schooled in the art of reproducing in Rajasthan. in fine detail Turkish, Turkman and The duree, one of Rajasthan’s most Caucasian antique patterns. From the century in popular weaving traditions, continues to remote reaches of Ladakh come pure fascinate buyers from around the world. wool carpets defined by vibrant colours Mughal times Once used as an underlay, the duree and bold motifs. It also produced floor has come into its own as a popular floor coverings such as the tsukdan woven The Mutiny of 1857 against British covering featuring both geometric and from yaks’ hair imported from Yarkand, rule, legend has it, resulted in many floral designs. You can pick up those of and the tsuktul doubling as a blanket. weavers from Agra fleeing to a tiny cotton yarn, wool and camel hair made Gabbas , the poor man’s floor covering village called Madhosingh, located in Bikaner and Jaisalmer. Namdahs, is made from pieces of blanket scraps between Bhadohi and Mirzapur, and felted rugs are woven in around Tonk. and then embroidered or appliqued; started plying there trade here. Another namdas made from pressed felt and legend claims that in the 17th century a embellished with embroidery in chain travelling Persian master weaver set up Madhya stitch is another ancient weaving base for carpet weaving here. Be that tradition in the Valley. Wagguor floor as it may… the fact is that the region Pradesh mats woven out of reed mace continue around Bhadohi and Mirzapur (also From Madhya Pradesh come a to be produced around Srinagar. located in Uttar Pradesh) went on to vibrant range of a carpets and rugs in become the premier carpet weaving traditional Indian designs. But the state hubs in India. Ample support from the is also renowned for its fabulous durees Uttar Pradesh maharaja of Benaras (Varanasi) added featuring range of folk designs. This The carpet belt in Uttar Pradesh fresh impetus to the range and quality thick cotton (and also woolen) floor makes a sweep over the districts of carpets being produced in the covering is woven on traditional looms of Bhadohi, Mirzapur, Sonebhadra, Bhadohi, Mirzapur and Benaras belt. by the women in the traditional ‘Punja’ Varanasi, Chandauli, Allahabad, Eighty per cent of India’s carpets are technique usually in bold patterns Koshambi, Jaunpur, Ghazipur, Sitapur, manufactured here, which also includes and bright colours with folk designs.
40 Mitchel Agra Green
Where to Buy Important hubs are Sironj, Raigarh, DELHI Jhabua, Jabalpur and Shahdol. Carpet Cellar While the humble Punja duree of 1, AnandLok, Khelgaon, Opposite Panipat in Haryana has become one of Kamla Nehru College, Siri Fort Road the fastest growing floor coverings from Tel: (011) 41741011 India (Fab India has played a pivotal role in its popularity) Amritsar’s famous Mouri Cottage Ind Exposition Ltd Indo-Persian design of geometrical 16, DcmBldg, Barakhamba Rd, PANIPAT motifs from the 19th century continue to Connaught Place Marwar Carpets Panipat be a popular export item. Tel: (011) 23719110 www marwarcarpets.com There is no doubt that the market also thrives on machine made carpets which Rugs & Riches Vishnu Carpets are less expensive than handcrafted ones 405/1, First Floor, Ghitorni, Nr www.vishnucartpets.com with newer, more contemporary designs Hanuman Mandir, Mehrauli Gurgaon but for many of us the antique look is Road, Delhi – 110030 BADOHI still more endearing. Tel: (011) 64697393 Harika Rugs Chakdewan Gaan, Bhadohi, Memorable Carpets 2/5B, Basement, Jangpura A, BANGALORE New Delhi Carpet Splendor Tel: 011-24372671, 204-7/23, Sophia’s Choice Building, F. A. Mir Mobile: 09891479470 2nd Floor, St. Marks Road Mir Bashir Mobile: 9811140266 Tel: 080- 65600949, 22484035 Mobile: 09900281058 Pala & Co. carpetsplendor.com D-12/D, HauzKhas Tel: 91-11-26854671: Cocoon Carpets 2nd Floor, K.P.Towers, 777-A, 100 ft Also visit online Central Cottage Rd, HAL II Stage, Indiranagar, Industries Emporium - Tel: 080-25201120, 44 www.cottageemporium.in and the state emporiums on Baba Kharag The Karnataka Handloom Singh Marg (near Connaught Place) Dev. Corp. Ltd. and Dilli Haat (opp. INA Market) 1, Priyadarshini Commercial Complex, Tank Road, Ulsoor, JAIPUR Tel: 080-25575421, 25575425 Jaipur Choudhry Exports Mobile: 0 9900017278 D12 Hanuman Nagar Vaishali Nagar AMRITSAR Tel: 0141-2350736 Everest Carpets Anand Market, Tel: 0183-3100937 MUMBAI Cocoon Carpets AGRA A - Block Basement, Shiv Sagar Estate, Rose Carpets Dr. A. B. Road, Worli JeoniMandi, Johns Mill No. 3, Agra, Tel: 022 2492 8647, 48 Tel: 0562-2622121 Email: [email protected] MIRZAPUR Mahadjoo Adarsh Carpets Behind the Taj Mahal Hotel, Colaba Jigna, Mirzapur, Tel: 05442-280356 Website: www.mahadjoo.com/ contact-us.html VARANASI BIL Continental Limited (previously Shyam Ahuja Durees Bholanath International Ltd.) Flat No. A-6, Ground Floor, Poonam P. O. Thathra, G. T. Road, Kachhawan Apartments, Tel: +91-542-2620221 (Top) Kashmir Silk Carpet; (bottom) Kashmir Dr Annie Besant Rd, Worli Fax: +91-542-2620090 Namdha Tel: 022-2492 6017 Email: [email protected]
Photos credit: Memorable Carpets 41 Search of Heartland of India
Photos by Rajesh Dhar The focus is on people of different religions and diverse cultures. Rajesh Dhar loves to travel into the interior of the country to capture what he calls the ‘Spirit of India’
Followers A flock of sheep is religiously following the shepherd through the lush green ‘Maidan’ of Kolkata.
Location: Kolkata The Black Beauty Beauty of an upcoming storm in one of the sea beaches in West Bengal. A colorful, well decorated horse in the foreground and the splashes at the backdrop created a very dramatic ambience.
Location: Digha, West Bengal
Demigod I ‘Gajan’ is a rural festival of West Bengal. The devotees use to dress like the gods and goddesses and are known as ‘bohurupees’. They play sequences from Indian mythology and the ‘bohurupees’ who perform are mostly underprivileged.
Location: Burdwan, West Bengal Demigod II Another ‘Gajan’ festival performance
Location: Bardhaman, West Bengal.
The Scholar A young pupil intending to be a pundit is educating himself with the vedic slokas in a Sanskrit school.
Location: Uttar Pradesh Packaging The idol of devi Laxmi is being covered with a polythene sheet to protect her from the sudden rain on the way to the ‘pandal’ during the durga puja festival.
Location: Kolkata
Holy Breeze The pilgrims are drying their wet clothes after the holy dip in the Ganges, during the auspicious ‘makar-sankranti’ festival in Ganga Sagar.
Location: Ganga Sagar, West Bengal Ritual During the Durga puja festival there is a ritual of bathing the banana tree in the holy Ganges. The banana tree is called as ‘Kola-Bou’ or the wife of Lord Ganesha.
Location: Kolkata
Holy Dip A sadhu is takes a holy dip in the Ganga Sagar during the auspicious ‘makar-sankranti’ festival.
Location: Ganga Sagar, West Bengal FORTIS@FSH_A4 AD_Jan14.indd 1 15/1/14 3:24 pm South Asia Select
LuxurySri Lanka Stays Rising like a Phoenix from the ashes of turbulent times, the country’s tourism scene is well on the road to recovery with a vengeance
he most beautiful places Last March, soon after the opening Four months later a news article in the world don’t of Mattala Airport, the Chairman of Sri reported the Minister of Investment necessarily have the best Lankan Airlines talked about Sri Lanka Promotion’s complaint that under accommodations to cater being more than capable of attracting the prevailing conditions, achieving T to the salubrious whims of a million more tourists than the 2.5 million tourists even by 2020 is the discriminating traveler. Previously original number of 2.5 million by 2016. doubtful. The Minister’s reason was, off-limits to travelers, the island of Sri He said, “I believe this to be a realistic “Hoteliers upped the floor rates by 200 Lanka is now fully open for business figure, given that the island now has a to 300 per cent, making Sri Lanka’s and has projected a host of new second international airport.” However, hotels the most expensive in the region accommodations in new areas opening there are still some growing pains. and if not for this huge hotel room up to tourism again. Sri Lanka’s charges, we could have met the 2.5 attractions include mountains, tea million tourists target by 2012”. plantations, culture and history. But Sri The most As the best things in life continue to Lanka’s fabled sun-kissed beaches are be free, it’s just the cost of going and the major draw for tourists. And this is beautiful places staying there to experience them will where you’ll find how tourist facilities in the world continue to cost money. The following have been transformed in the last few handy primer should provide some years, which also means there’s an don’t necessarily insights into the best places for a impressive choice of new resorts, villas sunny stay in Sri Lanka. and boutique hotels. have the best Hotel bookings are up by a third year The Sri Lankan government has set by year and chic new hotels are opening, a target of 35,000 rooms by 2016 to accommodations both on the beach and on the tourist meet the anticipated demand of 2.5 trail that takes in Nuwara Eliya for the tea million tourist arrivals. The government to cater to the plantations, Kandy for the Temple of the has reason to be confident of meeting Tooth, the Sigiriya rock fortress and the the target. In 2010, just a year after the salubrious ancient capitals of Anuradhapura and end of the war, tourist arrivals jumped Polonnaruwa. Packages are available, but by 50 per cent, and are increasing whims of the you might also consider doing Sri Lanka steadily by the year. Sri Lanka seems on your own; hiring a car with a driver well on its way to recovering its discriminating for a fly-drive with a difference. It doesn’t position as one of the world’s most cost much more than self-drive and is desirable travel destinations. traveler. much easier.
48 49 Nilaveli
Chaaya Blu Trincomalee
deluxe from US$198) near Nilavaeli North & North Beach is a 10-minute boat ride from Alankuda Pigeon Island , which also features Western Coast the popular Pigeon Island Resort Among the finest places to stay (www.pigeonislandresort.com). The in the Northeast area is the pretty Nilavaeli Hotel has a huge swimming West & South little native-style wooden chalets of pool and rooms with ocean views. Maalu Maalu (www.maalumaalu.com; Dine at leisure at its oceanfront West Coast US$195 full-board for a deluxe room) restaurant on fresh sea food. For those who can’t resist the charms in Passekudah. Trincomalee Natural Harbour is just of the more fully developed west Now you can hit the fabled 40 minutes away. coast there is quite a diverting range Trincoamalee beaches (which now To the north of Colombo, along the of sleep options. The expressway gets feature several enticing resorts) West Coast, visitors are now heading you to Galle the great tourism hub— travelling there by seaplane. The new for Kalpitiya and Puttalam Lagoon. the ‘weekend Rivera’ of Sri Lanka, service was launched by Cinnamon Air The serene and pristine expanses from Colombo in an hour. The Asia (www.cinnamonair.com). Cinnamon of the Kalpitiya peninsula are just Leisure group offers the highly popular Air’s convenient schedules are in sync a three-hour drive from Colombo. boutique property River House (www. with incoming international flights, Projections for tourism here include asialeisure.lk; from US$ 230++) which thus you cut the journey time to an the setting up of a Maldives-style is located near Balapitiya. hour on the seaplane flights. Cinnamon eco-resort around 14 lagoon islands. The Galle Fort Hotel (www. also flies to Sigiriya, in central Sri Lanka, Already travelers are discovering galleforthotel.com; from US$ 200) and Kandy, Koggala and Weerawila in the joys of leisurely sojourns at an award winning property offers the south. the picturesque Alankuda Beach beautifully appointed garden rooms, An excellent new sleep option is Resort (www.alankudabeachresort. lofts, suites and apartments. This the Chaaya Blu Trincomalee (www. com; from US$138 per night) located boutique hotel is steeped in a timeless cinnamonhotels.com/ChaayaBlu on the Kalpitiya peninsula. This new serenity with the stunning ocean Trincomalee.htm; singles from resort which features both medium and the stalwart fortification from the US$140) which has been completely size houses and low slung cottages 1860s waiting to be explored. transformed by a makeover. This 70’s is surrounded by tropical splendour. The Aman group properties are resort which suffered from the conflicts Meals are served in the pool-fronted renowned for their impeccable lineage in the area is welcoming tourists with pavilion. Prices include meals. and Sri Lanka’s beautiful Amangalla a whole new fresh outlook offering a Another good bet here is the (amanresorts.com; US$700 per room choice of 36 beach chalets, 43 superior Dolphin Beach Resort (dolphinbeach. per night) is no exception. The recent rooms and two suites all open on to lk/; doubles full board US$280) which makeover has converted, what used seascapes. The retro-style property offers snorkeling at the St Anne’s coral to be the New Oriental Hotel, into a features bleached wooden decks, reef, dolphin and whale watching rare gem, one of the island-country’s cut cement floors, rattan furniture and kite surfing. Accommodation most enviable boutique properties. The and denim trimmings. Don’t miss the features as custom- built spacious, old world charm is further enhanced brilliant snorkeling and scuba and, of air-conditioned luxury tents with and with its setting in Galle Fort, a UNESCO course, the whale watching. verandahs. The intimate interiors are World Heritage Site. Activity highlights The 45-room Nilaveli Beach fitted with king-size beds, unique include whale watching excursions. Hotel (www.nilaveli-beach-hotel- furnishings and en suite chic bathroom Jetwing Lighthouse (www. trincomalee-sri-lanka.en.ww.lk; single with rain-showers jetwinghotels.com/jetwinglighthouse;
48 49 South Asia Select
half board US$290) is the last offering of his amazing talent to Sri Lanka by Geoffrey Bawa. The hotel, overlooking the ocean is marked by its minimalist elegance and stately comforts. Bawas’s pictorial narratives define its beautiful interiors while its guest rooms envelop you in a world of soul-stirring delight. Jetwing Lighthouse, Galle, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World and holds the promise of a fabulous holiday in its tropical environs Located in the gorgeous environs of a tea plantation the award winning Kahanda Kanda (www.kahandakanda. Chaaya Blu Trincomalee com; from US$ 450 for two per night) near Galle, offers visitors a richly colonial-era nuanced holiday. This serene boutique retreat, quite close to historic Galle has on board nine stylish, individual suites overlooking Koggala Lake. Whale watching, fort tours, bike rides, rainforest walks, scuba and surfing are arranged on request. If you are looking for a spot of privacy, while you trawl Sri Lanka’s legendary tropical splendour a good option is the secluded Frangipani Tree (www.thefrangipanitree.com; from US$250 per night) resort which fronts the Indian Ocean on the western tip of Thalpe Bay on a picturesque beach. On offer here are three villas with nine suites. Light and airy each sleep option is thematically contemporary, with the Villa Bentota villas featuring private terraces and sun beds. Life becomes even more slow- night) continues to hold the standard retreat. In between catch some yoga paced around the 35 m infinity pool. high judging from the number of and massage sessions. It’s the perfect Located on the southern end discerning guests making a beeline retreat for honeymooning couples. of Galle is Villa Bentota (www. for it in Wadduwa. The hotel offers Accessible by wading through the paradiseroadhotels.com/villabentota; sumptuously appointed pavilion suites bay waters in this gorgeous, privately singles/doubles from US$312 nett), (12 of them) which feature private owned island with its neo-Palladian one of the newer and most popular plunge pools and high-tech interiors. mansion, it is a big hit with those boutique hotels on Paradise Road it The lush lawns are the setting of a seeking sun and serenity away from offers 15 designer rooms and suites. huge swimming pool. the madding crowd. The resort has a Villa Bentota is housed in the Mohotti long list of celebs, aristocrats, writers Walauwa, converted by world- and eccentrics who’ve been charmed renowned architect, Geoffrey Bawa into South Coast by its fabulous moorings. Sri Lanka’s first boutique hotel in the The atmospheric warmth of the Taprobane Island (www. 70s. It is also is open for weddings and Dutch-colonial-style villa at Satori taprobaneisland.com; call ahead for private functions. It’s just 90-minute Villa (www.satoriexperience.com; sleeps rates), found in the bay of Weligama is drive from Colombo. six, from US$595 per night) located a delightful tropical retreat spread over In 2010, this spanking new boutique in the rainforest near Unawatuna, 2 ½ acres, punctuated by five en suite hotel property on the West coast along the south coast, is heightened bedrooms, tropical gardens and an between Wadduwa and Panadura by the services of the chef who whips infinity pool. It used to be the personal was recognized as the Best Boutique up great meals while you soak in the retreat of a French hedonist. Resort in Sri Lanka. Serene Pavilions sights. Gather a bunch of friends and For those in the know, the charming (www.serenepavilions.com; offers B&B head here for some heartwarming resorts in Sri Lanka done by legendary ocean pavilion rooms from US$630 per leisure time in this secluded tropical architect Geoffry Bawa add a whole
50 51 new dimension to their holiday. poster beds, and period furniture. The Located in the southern coast near in-house chef for each bungalow can Tangalle is The Last House (www. summon up picnic lunches, hearty thelasthousetangalle.com; whole house, Casa Colombo planter breakfasts and delicious from US$985 per night), is Bawa’s last high teas —all beautifully served in project before his death in 2003. One traditional style. Meals are served in can just marvel at the joyous treatment the garden or the bungalow terraces. of open and closed living spaces in this cheery, spacious resort ensconced between the sea and the rainforest. Colombo Each suite at the Colombo’s popular 12-suite retro-chic Casa Colombo Central & (www.casacolombo.com; suite from Tree Trails US$650 per night), features the stamp North Central of its dynamic founder-owner, Lalin Provinces Jinasena’s, creative inspirations. The Another great winner from pink pool could well be the first of the Jetwings stable Vil Uyana its type in the world according to the (jetwinghotels.com/jetwingviluyana; hotel website. The poolside features from US$259 per night full board) eight glass sun beds, three canopied located in Sigiriya which is a part of day beds and chrome elephants the triangle encompassing Sri Lanka’s wading the shallow pool. top cultural and heritage attractions. If you don’t’ want to go into town The resort has become a nature-lovers a good option is the picturesquely Wallawwa hotspot as the beautiful thatched-roof set Wallawwa (www.thewallawwa. villas on stilts overlook the beautiful of new holiday experiences when com; from US$205 per night) boutique wetland the hotel has itself created. you base yourself at Tea Trails (www. hotel located in Kotugoda which You can survey the astonishing range teatrails.com; check ahead for current is just 15 minutes from Colombo’s of avifaunal wealth it has attracted. rates) at Hatton reputed for its Bandaranaike International Airport. The wetland and its forested surrounds luxuriant vistas of tea plantations. Sri The Wallawwa shows you that you can are now home to 80 species of birds, Lanka’s first Relais & Chateaux resort, have a perfectly decent resort in close 17 species of mammals, 36 species Tea Trails offers just four colonial-days proximity to the airport without the of butterflies and 21 species of planter bungalows (built between noise pollution. The Z spa here is the amphibians. 1888-1950) with 21 guestrooms and star point of the hotel. Its 17 colonial- The highlands of the Central suites, but each one is appointed in style bedrooms and suites are set Province summon up a whole range utmost luxury and richly nuanced with amidst landscaped verdure.
Useful Info Dondra Head
From January to April mighty blue whales make a regular appearance near Dondra Head, on the southern coast. In the vast and verdant expanses of Yala National Park thrilling sightings await of leopards and elephants in the wild. The good news is that after having been closed to the public for almost two decades the government has once again opened up the more remote Wilpattu National Park. Sri Lanka’ s recently opened up East Coast beaches, after the government lifted the ban on them because of the conflict that ripped through the region, putting tourism on hold, are all set to give the southern favourites a run for their money. The sandy crescent of Arugam Bay is one of Asia’s hottest surfing hubs. Other hot spots are further north at the pristine stretches of Uppuveli and Nilaveli near Trincomalee. Militant Tamil leader Prabhakaran’s bunker at Mullaitivu has become a tourist spot now— a grim reminder of the civil war that impacted heavily on tourism in these parts. Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil, the most impressive religious piece of architectures in Jaffna, is also one of the most significant Hindu temple complexes in all Sri Lanka. Trincomalee’s hot springs at the Koneswaram Temple, are a huge draw for streams of pilgrims. The stunning Trincomalee Harbour, lest we forget, is amongst the top 10 largest in the world.
50 51 The Accidental Tourist Going to Gulmarg to Ski Unforgettable and unplanned - first experience with snow and skiing!
irst to Jammu City, then Kashmir, and a tour of Srinagar; then a last minute decision to see the snow peaks of Gulmarg. Manjeet Singh,F a Singaporean IT professional said, “It was the start of the season in October and we wanted to experience snow. We took the Gulmarg cable car gondola, the highest in the world. We covered 1.6 km going up to almost 4,000 metres and that’s where the snow and the views were really breathtaking.” “It was the first time I touched snow in my life. My wife and 14 year-old daughter were all very excited. But what made it quite special was when our guide suggested some ‘basic’ ski lessons! It is something we did not plan it but we did it! “Right at the top of the mountain the air is very thin and it was advisable that we stay only for two or three (Top): The view from over 13,000 feet at Gulmarg. (Above) hours. So the experience on skis Manjeet and family bundled up to brave minus four degress Celcius climate was short but still a memorable one. We found moving around, actually and his family to go to a high altitude preconception that many travellers more like pushing along, on skiis was ski resort like Gulmarg and the have about security in Kashmir was very much easier than walking!” said unexpected ski lesson was truly the unfounded. He shared, “Everyone Manjeet. To make the experience topping on the cake. was friendly, there were no signs of complete while taking in the scenery, They spent about four days in any trouble and we felt totally safe he added, “The temperatures were J&K, two nights at the Taj in Srinagar when we are out on the streets.” around minus four degrees Celcius (facing the Dal Lake) and one night He felt, “If you have a spirit when we there and then It started in Gulmarg where they stayed at the of adventure and willing to try snowing for a few minutes.” posh new 5-star Khyber Himalayan something new, or you’re the type He and his daughter found skiing Resort & Spa. At Khyber, Manjeet said, who enjoys places off the beaten especially fun and wished that there “The hospitality, accommodation and track, you’ll like Gulmarg.” That spirit was more time for them to have service were superb and right from of adventure is gearing Manjeet “proper” lessons (that would take up your room’s balcony you can see to already start planning his next to at least seven days). Manjeet, a first snow-capped mountains.” trip to India to travel on the Lei- generation Punjabi, born in Singapore, This was also the first time he Ladakh Highway to explore and see has been on many annual holidays to visited the state of Jammu and scenic cold desert views of the Trans India but this is the first time for him Kashmir. He was quite glad that one Himalayan region next summer.
52 What if...
EXPLOrE WhAt if
Xander returns to the start of his trip to the Himalayas
…SOmE jOUrNEyS WErE TEN yEArS IN THE mAKING? Would a sleepover in their classroom in Grade 1 prepare is his Grade 11 week of independent travel. For Xander, the students for trekking in the Himalayas in Grade 11? At adventure began when he joined UWCSEA and spent a night UWCSEA, we believe it does. That’s why our Outdoor away from his family for the first time. Education programme begins with a night in the classroom when students are just six years old, and challenges them At UWCSEA, students learn that they can stretch themselves further each year. further than they thought possible. In the words of the UWC movement founder, Kurt Hahn, “there is more in you Take Xander, a Grade 11 student, whose five-day trip than you think.” to Taman Negara in Grade 5 helped to give him the determination, adaptability and resilience he needed What if your child joins UWCSEA? to trek for two weeks and have a homestay with a local Visit www.uwcsea.edu.sg to find out more. family in Ladakh, North India in Grade 10. The next step
UWCSEA Dover is registered by the CPE CPE registration No. 197000825H registration Period 18 july 2011–17 july 2017 UWCSEA East is registered by the CPE CPE registration No. 200801795N registration Period 10 march 2011–9 march 2017 213ADV-1314