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nts Bandipur tiger reserve 122 Kurumgad Island kabini 130 br hills wildlife sanctuary 134 hassan 139 Mosale | Doddagaddavalli | Shettihalli Rosary Church | Gorur Dam | Chitradurga halebid-belur 146 shravanabelagola 150

4 Karnataka Karnataka 5 western ghats Vijayapura 390 Kukke Subrahmanya 266 Almatti Dam | Bilgi | Mudhol | Kudalasangama | Bagalkot Dharmasthala Kalaburagi 402 Sringeri 272 Martur | Ganagapura | Malkhed | Afzalpur | Ghattaraga | Shorapur Agumbe Bidar 412 Kollur 284 Jalasangvi | Humnabad | Basavakalyan Kodachadri Hills | Maranakatte Kudremukh 292 INFORMATION Kalasa Tourist Offices 424 Chikkamagaluru 296 Tour Operators 425 Kemmannagundi 300 Transport Directory 426 Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary 302 Accommodation Listings 430-447 Sitalayyanagiri Photo Credits 448 Thirthahalli 306 route planners Chibbalagudde | Kavaledurga | Kuppalli | Sakrebyle South Karnataka 68-69 | Elephant Camp Kodagu Region 160-161 Honnemardu 310 Coastal Region 200-201 Gademane | Tyavarekoppa | Sagar | Nagavalli Western Ghats 264-265 Jog Falls-Lakkavalli 316 North Karnataka 330-331 Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary 322 Kavala Caves | Anshi National Park Huli Vana 326

6 Karnataka Karnataka 7 air, rail and road connections, connections, air,road and rail numbers, facilities and tariffs. tariffs. and facilities numbers, ▼ 8 Karnataka festivals, architecture, heritage, culture, cuisine, state’s the Karnataka of state the to guide This book this use to how site. The STD code for the area is also mentioned. also is area the for code site. STD The web - and telephone address, details, contact with destination, the around and in offices tourist the lists it addition, In climate/season. the mind in keeping destination a visit to time best the Indicates FastFacts comprehensive hotel listings, with a list of amenities available at each city/ town. town. city/ each at available amenities of list a with listings, hotel comprehensive hub. significant most lines, regional along sections five into divided been has book the of part This is a representative list- representative a is This options in each destination, destination, each in options This box provides details of of details provides box This heads, and taxi fares to the the to fares taxi and heads, nient train and bus connec- bus and train nient restaurants and the kind of of kind the and restaurants with details such as phone phone as such details with destination. Info on conve- on Info destination. There is also a list of local local of list a also is There ing of the accommodation accommodation the of ing tions, road conditions and and conditions road tions, operators are also given. given. also are operators Where to Stay and Eat and Stay to Where nearest airports and rail- and airports nearest -ANGALURUISBIGONBEACHES MANYWITHINEASYREACHOFTHECITYBYATAXIRIDE COASTALMONTAGE MANGALURU 196 Y N COASTALKARNATA W peln ofba fe while feel an off-beat offers appealing city charming this that exploring while find you’ll beaches, sunny and industriesflourishing century.10th the as early as town cosmopolitan a considered was city Ghats, back in the day this Westerncharming the of bio- riches geographical the from fragrances the with from the Arabian Sea and tremulous Caught between wrong.the salty kisses of the breeze you prove just contactsoftaxi andbus B I T Y KARNATA Popular for its exquisite temples, exquisite its for Popular H AR

SA century, but Mangaluru might 20th the of thing a are cities cosmopolitan that think ou’d CH I RA K ANA A ME

N RA food served there. there. served food EZE I K A S Getting There nlec i sil iil t ti day this Their to visible still Coast. is Karavaliinfluence the on city quirky this the rule still that fashionedethos who century 17th the in priests Jesuit the was it that other- worldly. just are thatdelicacies a seafood are serving restaurants of string There enough. inducement the waters off lovely the or pleasures of plunging tired bodies fry,in bangude and kane off lovely hought of the lip-smacking waters the in bodies t the impulses, landscape. urban century 21st a of pace hectic the and ambience town alternating between a relaxed coastal hr ae o rzs o guessing for prizes no are There earthly more with those For Each destination has details of tourist attractions. tourist Theof enddetails ofhas thedestination bookEach has Ullal Beach are 302 are times. lifeguards all at ready that sure make rowing. They and pedalling kayaking, of choice a there’s fine, weather’s the when And hit. huge a be to continue jackets) life with (complete river the the on see-saw bank, mighty a and the A trampoline from a game. distance ball it’s short rains different the completely the in but cluttering glorious are fresh Bengaluru corporates from of host a drizzle-rain-drizzle scenario, the Despite Watersports plumage. with black and grey their pratincoles the aso act also s WESTERNGHATS GETTO,AKKAVALLITOWN CARRYONFORANOTHERKMORSO TILLYOU THEBOARDFOR+UVEMPU5NIVERSITY AND "IRUR&ROM4ARIKERETAKEALEFTLOOKFOR VIA'UBBI 4IPTUR !RSIKERE +ADURAND 3HIMOGA"YPASS.( TO4ARIKERE 4UMKURFROMWHEREYOUGETONTOTHE MAINTAINED.(FROM"ENGALURUUPTO 2OAD4HEROUTEISALONGTHEWELL *ANSHATABDI%XPRESS CONNECTIONWITH"ENGALURUISTHE FORTHEREMAININGRIDE!GOOD FROMTHELODGE.EGOTIATEWITHANAUTO AUTOSSERVING,AKKAVALLIVILLAGE KM TO4ARIKERE WHICHHASPRIVATEBUSES ` KMHRS 2ESORTPICK UPCOSTSARE 2AIL#ONVENIENTRAILHEAD"IRUR*N KARNATA /R CATCHABUSFROM"IRUR ' % 4 4 ) . ' 4 ( % opens with an introductory segment that includes features on on features includes that segment introductory an with opens K A are centre. city the from away railway station is about a kilometre well.the metros, major asall to Connected Bajpe) at away (18km now airport international and an features here railhead and city the Karnataka Coast. It is the biggest of end far the on space picturesque of km sq 132 around occupies that Mangaluru is a budding conurbation otherness. of sense distinct in the salty air to give Mangaluru its commingle which all — of Malayalam snatches odd the Konkani, even English, Kannada, Tulu, — time the all you around all hear you that languages of babble veritable the is strike you the most about Mangaluru commercialtown. around establishments of plethora the in high-steepled venerablechurches that dot the cityscape; and its of profusion the in hillsides; city’s the on bungalows tiled-roof of gates the at name-boards the on scattered — n dy rp Ol Ull a a Resort has Beach Ullal in Only option trip. staying day a on beaches these visit in and stay Mangaluru to best It’s town. in about a move to take convenient are to autos taxi; best is it towns, coastal Beach popular the boasts that south. the to and north, the and (14km) OR The main beaches in Mangaluru in beaches main The city,will port what a befitting As Tannirubavi IE NTAT Fr rvl ewe the between travel For . I ON 2 % 1k) to (17km) Surathkal is a small town small a is Ullal (see page 426) page (see (11km) Someshwar (12km), umr Sands Summer Someshwar Panambur . for water sports) water for extra pay to expect package, 2N a for opted have you (if activities different am-noon on page 422 (Jog Falls) and (Lakkavalli) and Falls) (Jog 422 page on Listings Accommodation see details, For river.the overlooking foliage the amidst set gazebo a the Ghar, in Gol Lick Salt the at buffet-style and Bengaluru. in Lodges office Resorts Jungle Book the at bridge. or the online from on stars perch the by your count warmed drinks, dinner, some early an After bridge. by a wooden accessible island, small a dot peninsula, additions newer hilly the and the on located cottages are older The extra. cost sports Water forest taxes. and fee camera fee, entry birding, ride, boat safari, jeep package accommo 1N/2Dincludes The balconies. compel and Tariff: Lodge Tern of cottages twin-bedded 24 the are hillocks twin the across Scattered Lakkavalli In helpful. staff the and panoramic spacious are Rooms with falls. the of views stay, to place best bed Tariff: 6244732; Tel: 09480595732; (Cell: Hotel 16-room KSTDC’s Falls Jog In ◆ W Timings HERE Nutritious, homely fare is served served is fare homely Nutritious, ` 300 ) isn’t luxurious, but it’s the the it’s but luxurious, isn’t ) 300

T long stretches of pristine beaches, a beaches, pristine of stretches long — despair not however,need mind, in pursuits secular more with Those rivalling those in the Sistine Chapel. thatMangaluruans are happy to claim as paintings oil with and frescoes Chapel, College Aloysius St. religious circuit, as is the magnificent the of part a are Ganapathi Sharavu the and Mangaladevi, Manjunatha, like templesExquisite agrarian. primarily is economy whose society, Religion this century.dominates 9th the in back Kundavarma, an King devotee, by ardent raised was temple a to whom Mangaladevi goddess the from Mangaluru, it is said, draws its name ` O T 7,500) with all mod-cons mod-cons all with 7,500) .083 a, 10.30 am, 7.30-8.30 HI 34$CODE #ELL$4# 4EL -ANGALURU ST&LOOR $AKSHINA+ANNADA 2OOM.O #OMMERCIAL#OMPLEX $EPARTMENTOF4OURISM L 4OURIST/FFICE DELIGHTFUL3UMMERSAREHOTANDHUMID BENIGNANDTHESEAABSOLUTELY WHENFISHISPLENTIFUL TEMPERATURES THEIDEALTIMETOHEADFORTHECOAST 3EPTEMBERTO&EBRUARYIS 7HENTOGO Charges Charges STA /FFICEOFTHE!SSISTANT$IRECTOR ling river views from the the from views river ling

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197 E or an important personality. important an or legend, local a destination, the of aspect unique a on typically write-up, short a comprises This Box USP and wildlife and also given. given. also are sites for timings and prices entry The area. the in attractions main the of description detailed a Gives Do and See to Things Devarakadu: The sacred groves of Kodagu of groves sacred The Devarakadu: ERCTA OS-ANY DOGS OF TERRACOTTA OFFERINGS FORM WITH DOGS HUNTER BY ACCOMPANIED IN 3HIVA IS !YYAPPA WITHGROVESDEDICATEDTOHIM"OTEKARA VILLAGECOMMUNITIES MANYFROM+ERALA ANDMANAGEDBYLOCAL ARE GROVES NAMEDAFTERLOCALGODSLOCALDEITIES 4HESE 4ALUK 6IRAJPET IN ARE /FTHE SACREDFORESTSIN+ODAGU THE OF OLDESTFORMSOFCONSERVINGTROPICALFORESTS ONE ARE 3ACRED FORESTS TEMPLE WORLD OR THE GROVES IN GROVES OF DENSITY TRADITIONINTHEWORLDANDBOASTSTHEHIGHEST +ODAGUISTHEHOTSPOTOFTHESACREDGROVE IAPT EINSEVERAL REGION 6IRAJPET 3HAKTISHEISOFFEREDTERRACOTTAHORSES)N "HAGAVATHY OR+ALI "HADRAKALI #HAMUNDI TO DEDICATED !ROUND3OMWARPET THESACREDGROVESARE TO DEDICATED 2ITUALDANCESAREPERFORMEDATFESTIVALSTOHONOURTHEGODSOFSACREDGROVES eachcentred around its 4HEMOSTPROMINENTDEITYIS!YYAPPA to travel locally. travel to way best the them tells and location particular their in themselves establish visitors Helps Orientation 3ARTHAAVU — DIFFERENTNAMESFOR DEVARAKADUS DEVARAKADUS FRO3HIVA OF FORM . The principle . principle The ARE ARE ACSSCATHE AS SUCH DANCES DANCE OR FESTIVALS TO DEDICATED ARE AND+ERALAPREVAIL ANDLOTSOF #ANARA AND 3OUTH -ERCARA FROM INFLUENCES )N 3AMPAJE DISTRICT -YSORE OLD OR OR-URUDESHWARA DEITIESFROMTHE(ASSAN DEDICATEDTO3UBBAMMA 'ANGADESHWARA HASANANNUALFESTIVALON*UNE TOWARDS(ATHURVILLAGE4HE ACREGROVE 6IRAJPET "ITTANGALA FROM ROAD MAIN THE OFF 4HE6ANA"HADRAKALI 3UBRAMANYA 0OLLAPPA BROTHER YOUNGER ANDASMALLEROBELISKNEARBY SIGNIFYINGHIS ROCK MONOLITHIC HUGE A HAS GROVE SACRED DEVARAKADUIN+OLLATHOLBAIGODVILLAGE4HE DEVARAKADUS NOTED 3OME PERFORMED BEING DANCE TAIL HORNDANCE AND DANCE FEATHER PEACOCK AHAAT +ATHI NAMME NLDTE !YYAPPA THE INCLUDE #HOWRIAAT KIE DANCE KNIFE AA DEVAS NAGA DEVARAKADULIESJUST EVBAT TEMPLE VIBRANT SEE OAK AAT "OLAKK OB AAT +OMB

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MANGALURU VIJAYAPURA MADIKERI MYSURU !SSISTANT !SSISTANT N the publisher.the or author the by either recommendations as construed be not should mentioned. listings each The of facilities with tion, destina- each at budgets across options stay the of listing A Listings Accommodation 7,3 4% 0/ /PP .0 .( .! 4EL / ,OCATION (OTEL"ADAMI#OURT ROOMSERVICE 46 &ACILITIES2ESTAURANT BAR BREAKFAST4% 2OOMS HOTELBADAMICOURTCOM 414 4EL #IRCLE "ADAMI-AIN2OAD ,OCATION 6EERPULAKESHI #LARKS)NN , ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS TRAVELDESK )NTERNET 2ESTAURANT SWIMMINGPOOL BREAKFAST #HAPRAMARI7,3 #HALSA *ALPAIGURI $URGAPUR $IGHA $ARJEELING *ALDAPARA.0 "UXA42 #OOCH"EHAR #HANDANNAGAR "ISHNUPUR "ANKURA %'%.$ 4ARIFF K A 7ILDLIFE3ANCTUARY 4AXESEXTRA 0OST /PPOSITE .ATIONAL0ARK .ATIONAL(IGHWAY .OTACCEPTED R BADAMI STD 08357 STD BADAMI NATAKA ` &ACILITIES 4ARIFF #ELL 3TATION2OAD W CLARKSINNIN ` 2OOMS W 4OBOOKANYSTATETOURISMHOTELINYOURCITY SEETHE4OURIST/FFICESLISTINGSONP !CCOMMODATIONTYPE Waterfall Peak Beach Palace Fort Cave Airport Station Railway ,OCATION!DJACENTTOTHE.0 "ANDIPUR3AFARI,ODGE 2ESTAURANT )NTERNET 46 ` ,OCATION!IHOLE (OTEL-AYURA9ATRI.IVAS ).!)(/,%34$ 2AMADURG2OAD ,OCATION.EAR#AVE4EMPLES (OTEL-AYURA#HALUKYA #ELL BAR TRAVELHELP PARKING 46 4% 2OOMS 'ORUMARA.0 4AMLUK 4AJPUR -ANDARMANI *HARGRAM -IDNAPORE -ALDA +URSEONG +OLKATA ,OLEYGAON ,AVA +ALIMPONG K (/4%,3 S TDC HE 3POTTHESEFLAGS &ACILITIES2ESTAURANT BEER BANDIPUR NP STD 08229 STD NP BANDIPUR RITA HO M GE R E A T S OUTE PLANNER 4ARIFF %!39 T &ACILITIES Y KARNATA 2OOMS E NTS #ELL L E 4 -%42/2%3%26!4)/.3 ` W !##%33 KSTDCCO K A

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▼ 14 Karnataka introducing Karnataka introducing introducing sixth largest state by area in the in area by state largest sixth the is this km; sq 1,91,976 over spread is state the west, to east 400km and south to north from land’, black 750km roughly Stretching earth. bountiful its ‘black to referring or ‘Karunadu’ from derived is Karnataka name The cluster. hill Nilgiri the into Western and Eastern Ghats unite L ■ PRIY

anurag A on the tableland where the where tableland the on lies Karnataka west, its on Sea Arabian the by apped GANAPA K arna allick and mallick t aka THY

ee gdes hmni (or Chamundi goddess Here, Cauvery mankind. of benefit the for river goddess a as flow to Agastya sage forsook that says most India’s important of rivers. one Mythology , Cauvery the of the is Karnataka Mythology and History history goes back two millennia. two back goes history Rajyotsava), Karnataka’s Kannada recorded as (celebrated 1973 1, was State renamed as Mysore recently as November after state a declared Though population. by largest eighth the and country fountainhead ar aa the away carry to inability Ravana’s name. his bear that waterfalls and coast, perennial streams create into to the mountains arrows on shot Lakshmana and to Kodagu Kerala from over While crossing Hampi. present-day in banks of the the on Pampa Kishkindha (Tungabhadra) of kingdom his raised and Rama, Hanuman met Lord who of footprints the Mysuru name. its (Mahish-ooru) giving Mahishasura, demon buffalo the slew Durga) Karnataka during monsoons during Karnataka Karnataka is a land blessed by blessed land a is Karnataka t h monkey the at sena vanara atmalinga k Archives Outlook to to ee tdy the today, Udupi (even ardent in his Kanakadasa devotee to himself reveal to around turned Krishna Lord where land hallowed Gokarna. the is This around coast the on Lanka spawned five Shiva shrines h Biih Ter eay of legacy Their British. and the Arabs, French lands, Dutch, Greeks, Portuguese, foreign the including these from to shores people lured Bazaar Hampi ancient the and trade sea flourishing how chronicled have this Batuta, Nicolo Conti and Ptolemy Ibn over travellers Legendary control terrain. for Mughals the fought even and Sultan Tipuand Ali Haider by succeeded were dynasty, longest India’s as hailed Mysuru, of Wodeyars The lands. these ruled have Nayakas the and Sultans Vijayapura and Rashtrakutas, Bahmani the kings, Vijayanagara Dwarasamudra (Halebidu), of Hoysalas Badami, of Chalukyas Talakadu, Satavahanas, the of Gangas Banavasi, of Kadambas the to from Mauryas around Dynasties 298BCE. Shravanabelgola in died and ascetic Jain a as life of his years later the spent Maurya Chandragupta Emperor that here was It empires. of fall and rise the of travels south. the to Pandavas the tales while recount Ilvala, sage and Vatapi of demons the legend consuming Agastya famous the celebrates Badami temple). behind window the a from is idol Karnataka has witnessed the the witnessed has Karnataka introducing darshan f the of Karnataka K arna t aka 15 ▼ 16 Karnataka Intricately carved sandalwood idols sandalwood carved Intricately introducing ae o Hmi Shivagange, Hampi, of haven the bouldering (legendaryand rock-climbing movie the for backdrop Ramnagaram of boulders granite natural perched ridges of Badami; the precariously sandstone peach-hued stunning the Dandeli; of near Caves Kavala stalagmites and stalactites formations at Yana near Sirsi; monumentsthe limestone giant sand; in buried with of tract Talakadu desert mysterious the exceptional— it makes diversity geographical sheer Karnataka’s Geography this of state. heritage architectural rich the see to experience great monuments still evoke awe. It is a K arna t aka nt P Prashnt Sholay); anjir Many throng this state for its its for state this throng Many saints. and philosophers, poets, of land the as hailed is Karnataka and Literature osos of hotspots make Karnataka one of the global Kodachadri, Agumbe, Kudremukh. and Kemmangundi, Giri, to Budan India, in coffee of birthplace the Baba —from Sahyadris or Ghats Western the of mountains the and forests are dense there Then Kolar. and to the east. the to come with spectacular mountains Murudesh Maravanthe, Kumta, and Gokarna Baindoor, formations. basalt fantastic with off Malpe Mary’s near Island Island St. and Netrani Murudeshwara; site dive fine the Karwar; near Kurumgad islands off the coast—the tortoise-shaped the are ‘Prokritir intrigue Adding play Revenge). (Nature’s first Protishodh’ his pen TagoreRabindranath to poet the inspired Karwar in night moonlit a on ride boat magical A India. in drives coastal scenic most the of called 320km from Mangaluru to Karwar cliffs. laterite and forests with lined beaches Western pristine are Ghats the and Dandeli, Fringing Bandipur,Kabini. the as Nagarahole, such wildlife parks and enthusiasts flock to world-famous Birdwatchers All of these features collectively Sunny beaches at Malpe, Kaup, stretches coast Karavali The , one one Route , Sapphire the Legacy biodiversity wara, .

Jnanpith award winners in India. India. in winners award Jnanpith our of producing the most (eight) Melukote. hon- the has literature Kannada and Subramanya, Moodabidri, Kukke Kollur, Katil, Gokarna, Udupi, Dharmasthala, Sringeri, in flourished thought of Schools Karnataka. of heritage the enriched have Vyasa ers Pampa, Harihara, and Kumara ticians like Bhaskaracharaya, writ- and mathema- Basaveshwara, Sri like Reformers Ramanuja, here. taught Madhava great Shankara, The Gokarna. to Idagunji and Murudeshwara, Route—from Mangaluru, via Udupi, Honnavar, Pilgrim coastal aia (hc as gvs the gives Kannada film industry its name), also (which capital India’s as Hailed and Arts Coffee plucking at Coorg at plucking Coffee Crafts sandalwood acharyas acharyas and the famous Coorgi famous the and Dharwad Dharwad Pak, Mysore like sweetmeats and signature has It heavyweight. culinary a is Karnataka chicken, Kundapur to vada From Bidadi Festivals and Food of which are great souvenirs. great are which of all saris, Kasuti and handlooms Ilkal as such vibrant (wooden and toys), kale Kinhala fromBidar, from work Bidri lacquerware Channapatna, Mysuru, such as sandalwood carving from has handicrafts thriving and state unique The cardamom. nut, and areca pepper like spices honey, coffee, sticks), (incense renowned production, silk also its for is Karnataka and Davangere Benne Dosa Benne Davangere and tindi Belgaum peda, thatte idli (snacks), savouries introducing to Maddur agarbathi pandi. kunda Karnataka nt P Prashnt K arna

t aka anjir 17 ▼ 18 Karnataka Artists participate in a Dasara procession at Mysore at procession Dasara a in participate Artists introducing about 93km east of Bengaluru. of east 93km about mines, Kolar the from came once gold India’s of 90% Nearly 1880. as back far as started country, the in Departments Survey Geological oldest the of one credit its to has Karnataka wealth, mineral in Rich Gold aaa n yuu o h street of the to glory Mysuru in and Dasara pomp — the festivals from grand many its in vibrancy is typically experienced ’ mudde-saaru hotels. military and messes, ‘ragi Reddy eateries, Sauji restaurants, Gowda Lingayat Malnad, besides and in (Coorg) homestays Kodagu at enjoyed best R Karnataka’s pulsating h state’s The ush K arna t aka is cuisine diverse khanavalis cultural , tt, ay ols, allowing story.own their find to each worlds’, many state, ‘one truly its is Karnataka to tagline, up Living and Capital’. Valley’ ‘Pub Silicon ‘India’s to Paradise’ ‘Pensioner’s and City’ ‘Garden from evolving crowns, many had has city The universe. multi-cultural extraordinarily and DJs from around the world. the around from musicians, DJs and bands, rock the to biggest host playing also while Mansur, Bhimsen Mallikarjun and Joshi, Hangal, Gangubai legends music classical Indian of cradle the is state The festivals). regular and Sante Chitra include showcases culture and and Art Habba. Vasanta Utsav Hampi of visual spectacle the Chaturthi, Ganesh and Karaga Bengaluru of fervour The capital The a habbas nad has an has Bengaluru l Das Saibal (folk n

Murudeshwara Keshava Hoysala 49, 2ndFloor, 560001 Bhavan, Course Khanija Race Road, Bengaluru, Karnataka Phone: 080-22352828, Mail:[email protected], Department of Department Tourism, Government ofKarnataka Website:http://www.karnatakatourism.org Experience Heritage ▼ 20 Karnataka Chariot Golden The The opulent interiors of the Golden Chariot exude an other-wordlycharm an exude Chariot Golden the of interiors opulent The introducing for the high season. high the for readying makeover soft a getting it’s busy when except roll, a on much very is train luxury ever-popular Karnataka’s major with UNESCO along World Heritage Sites. So yes, areas, beach and wilderness premier India’s of some to you takes that journey fantastic a along travelling train, furnished magnificently a on luxury in ensconced — why see you’ll and board on Come milestone. T ■

SAHANEY RANEE luxury train passes the 10-year 10-year this the passes as train luxury even waves in come to continues acclaim global he K arna t aka Kochi), this super-luxury journey offers offers journey super-luxury this Kochi), and Thiruvananthapuram, Chennai, (Bengaluru, airports international four states from Accessedand TamilNadu. Kerala neighbouring of spots tourist hottest the of some including itinerary, its to destinations enticing more added began. finally route Chariot Golden Goa, the how That’s to Bengaluru. to returning onwards then and Belur, Pattadakkal, Badami, Hampi, Halebid, Shravanabelagola, Kabini, Srirangapatna, Mysuru, to capital Bengaluru Karnataka the from travellers Since then, the luxury train has has train luxury the then, Since took originally journey 7N/8D The Photographs by Photographs ahtushi deshpande backwaters (in Kerala). (in backwaters Alleppey green gloriously the even and Puducherry of towns Thanjavur and Madurai (in Tamil of Nadu); temple the (Pondicherry); territory Union tiny heritage-filled French the Kerala); (in Kovalam of town beach alluring the to visits allow that combinations several the inviting peachy eiderdown on the the on eiderdown peachy inviting the on arranged pillows, downy of sea a on a with shower, collapse bathroomI toiletries. and towels, attached private really a hotel on wheels. You have your classic tones of peach and beige — it is soothing in beautifully accoutered and appointed cabins, our in deposited brought from our hotel in Bengaluru and centre. business a and mini-gym, a spa, bar,a lounge a restaurants, two coaches, residential 11 with equipped is train air-conditioned fully The coach. and Vijayanagara. I am in the Chalukya Yadukula, Shathavahana, Sangama, Rashtrakuta, Adilshahi, Bahmani, Chalukya, Ganga, Hoysala, Kadamba, — Karnataka of dynasty ruling major a after named is quietude. coaches the of and Each opulence will this India in in revel train by lot a travel who Those cabin. designated my into slip I Indian railway station, that greets me as an of world cacophonous the out shuts which luxury, quiet of hush opulent the It’s coaches. the into entry auspicious traditional the platform. with the drinks cooling of and garlands Chandan length the down snaking train golden and maroon the we of portals inviting the enter to wait can’t Station, Railway Yeswantpur At R evelling in quiet luxury quiet in evelling u bg hv be magically been have bags Our e our see tikka Fine dining and a room fit for royalty for fit room a and dining Fine Madira Bar is lubricating parched throats coach. the in in the sitting area, common to everyone if outside tea fragrant of cup a checks arranging he about goes then smile, and OK, is everything quick a journey. With the on needs our all of care a like who’s concierge-cum-mum) who will be taking attendant, own its has one (each coach our of steward young peach. palest of drape elegant the world with outside the from me separates window The essentials. away stow to cupboard a there’s and me from across plasma A sits luxury. TV understated of nuances the in soaking bed, spacious At the cocktail hour, the well-stocked the it’s and door the on knock A he golden chariot golden the Karnataka 21

▼ 22 Karnataka The full-service dinner on the train has plenty of options from a varied menu varied a from options of plenty has train the on dinner full-service The introducing with plenty of options from a varied varied a from options of plenty with now.destination tomorrow’s and gossip Bollywood It’s cocktail hour, the conversation changes. the into more Deeper city.... verdant a urbane, of loss the jams, traffic awful the of the Bengaluru, lows in schedule sightseeing and (mostly) highs The bios…. and stories swapping is more, and photographer Bengaluru-based a writers, travel well-known two trains, luxury top India’s of some on travelled who’ve couple German a triplets!), their (minus Sangeeta wife Tamil his ebullient with Nasir man finance Pakistani Zurich-based a comprising group, Our and helping loosen metaphorical collars. Dinner is a lavish full-service affair affair full-service lavish a is Dinner K arna t aka we roll into the parking area by the the by area parking the into roll we crowds. the as pictures snap we for alert, on Cameras morning cool the in night. Mysuru, calm and collected, waits we arrive in Mysuru at some point in the tracks, gleaming the with sync perfect in Chariot, Golden the of wheels the of and with florals. pretty by muted purples Hoysala royal in architecture, furnishings by Vijayanagara inspired are restaurants, two the Nalapa, and Ruchi of interiors The gusto. with in watching tuck him order, their change quickly photographer, a orders the fish—it’s grilled Arjun, the delicious. for opt I menu. Lulled to sleep by the gentle chorus chorus gentle the by sleep to Lulled . Some of the others others the of Some thali. offers attractive combinations. attractive offers season new each the since especially urge you to do the full tour. It’s fabulous, I But planned. had I as Pattadakal and Hampi to it make can’t I train. the and reluctantly, after getting back to Mysuru feet! massive deity’s the touch to steps anticipating the joy of climbing over 600 the run to for Chariot Hassan Golden and the Shravanabelagola, to back getting before dinner, and drinks for Gardens Vrindavanthe of direction the in drift we as haze purple a is Twilight solemnity. his but and silence with paintings, ring walls mausoleum delightful of riot of Sultan. bastion Tipu famous the Srirangapatna, for out head we before breakfast, luxurious a at over ponder to vignettes of mesh a river,are the on kingfishers and darters on and firma boar terra wild and deer spotting river, created Nature. by us for especially painting impressionistic an exquisite, The is river riverfront. the on light the morning verdure to of out pelt reaching thick a in scattered are rooms cool and spacious their with lodges. jungle the towards off bouncing over the rutted road that leads we’re Soon, morning. the from images time to slowly unspool our thoughts and us gives countryside lush the through Lodge, set by the Kabini river. The drive we are off to the legendary Kabini River cards. Then the on much very are trips Return in. all the it take to to hard it’s open public, rooms the overwhelming of splendour the through Passing Palace. Mysuru stunning the of gates I must return to Delhi, unfortunately, unfortunately, Delhi, to return must I a with embellished is palace Tipu’s the on boat a in after morning The The low-slung red-roofed bungalows ■ the season. the of start the at updated are Rates head. between costs package full the ForIndians Tariff Backwaters-Kochi-Bengaluru Alleppey Kanyakumari- Kovalam- and Tiruchirapalli Thanjavur-Madurai- Mammallapuram-Puducherry- Bengaluru-Chennai- Itinerary: Bengaluru Boarding: Days 8 Nights/ 7 Duration: Splendour Southern Pattadakkal)-Goa-Bengaluru (Badami, (Hampi)-Badami Hospet (Shravanabelagola-Belur-Halebid)- Srirangapatna)-Hassan (Kabini, Bengaluru-Mysuru Itinerary: Goa Bengaluru/ Boarding: Days 8 Nights/ 7 Duration: South Prideof India South of circuits 2 offers Chariot KSTDC’s Golden The Tel:080-43464346 Bengaluru Road Mark’s St. PappannaLane 8, No. TourismHouse Chariot Golden The Contact accordingly. pay and choice your of journey 4-night W goldenchariot.org InformatioThe n ` 1.25 lakh and lakh 1.25 Tip

You can also opt for a a for opt also Youcan he golden chariot golden the ` 1.50 lakh per per lakh 1.50 Karnataka 23 ▼ 24 Karnataka a cuisine Karnataka Krishna of worship the in origin fascinating a have MTR as such restaurants Udupi roducing karna introducing `Priy G ■ . In South Karnataka, South In kadabu. called various avatars in steamed consumed rice and greens spices, for plantation fondness pork, a displays Ghats Westernthe in Coorg-Malnad of like towns swathe The Gokarna. and Udupi religious barring heavily towards fish and seafood, coast leans Karwar Canara to Mangalore from or Karavali The anurag Mallick anurag a Ganapa a b dvdd into zones. divided culinary distinct be can Karnataka eographically, t aka thy AND

puttu ragi or ot Kraaa s dominated by is Karnataka North while staple the is millet) (finger eglr ws one i 12th in folklore, founded was Bengaluru to According beans! its origin to a humble owes meal of boiled state bean-shaped the of capital the that fate of quirk and spices gongura meat, from like Andhra influences culinary has Gulbarga-Bidar around region Hyderabad-Karnataka the of while flavours Northwest touch Maratha and a Konkani bears areas, Karnataka border ts rncl r ehp some perhaps or ironical It’s jola or (sorrel) leaves. (sorrel) jowar (sorghum). Being bisibelebath vangibath rice), f ihs like dishes of range a in interpreted creatively is but regions most in consumed (Bengal or patties) gram vada masala fritters), to and (potato) banana), caper), banana —made from Karnataka across snack teatime Mavalli (MTR). Room Tiffin or Bhavan Vidyarthi of the some most iconic eateries like CTR, at vadas crunchy and dosas crisp idlis, soft savour and container) leaf sal or ‘donne’ a favourite local the Try here. all them find you’ll bars restaurants, speciality and upscale to hotels military and darshinis eateries, Maratha to Maddur Peda vada and Andhra Dharwad messes, Davangere dosa, benne From epicurean your adventure. start best to the place indeed and state the chieftain Yelahanka.from a Kempegowda, by of expanded on later Beans’, Boiled ‘Village or Benda-kaal-uru village this named he gratitude, staple local kaal the benda him fed lady old an and forest the in hunt a on separated was who II, Ballala Veera King Hoysala by century medu vada medu Vadasand of microcosm a is Bengaluru puliyogare donne biryani donne biryani iruli iruli (hot lentil rice dish). rice lentil (hot bijl ie and rice) (brinjal bie bas. In beans). (boiled menasinakayi sabbaki bajjis (doughnut shaped (doughnut (onion), chitranna Rc is Rice ambode. tmt rice), (tomato balekayi are a popular a are (pearl sago) (pearl (served in (served alugadde (lemon (green (raw Kannada for ‘straining’. for Kannada saaru saaru mutton with paired Often balls). mudde dish from South Karnataka is signature the staple, popular the With South bas saaru saaru bas tempered a is into extract spiced the and while strained is the liquid greens; other and leaves, spinach dill beans, gram, of green made is curry Hassan. The and Mysuru across Mandya, popular meal agrarian Topeople, most or ragi K palya semd igr millet finger (steamed arnataka , it is a hearty a is it , saaru bas is derived from derived is fne mle) being millet) (finger dy r) Te term The fry). (dry idli-vada flavourkarna of s are Udupi staples Udupi are or dal, toor basidu, Karnataka ragi t aka 25

shutterstock ▼ 26 Karnataka Masala roducing karna introducing u te oa staple local the out the Late Dr Rajkumar, still like dishes patrons famous served has which Srirangapatna, near Mess The dingy Jai the Bhuvaneshwari chutney. Military coconut of (thick) bite a with served vada, legendary for Tiffany’s Maddur at pitstop ritual a make and today,travellers Even asafoetida. leaves curry onion, sliced with mixed semolina and flour rice of made crisp flat a is vada between Maddur Mysuru, and Mandya Bengaluru near town small A vada. Maddur the synonymous with is Maddur pair), thatte fluffy cooking on a gridle a on cooking dosas If Bidadi is known for its soft its for known is Bidadi If r lt ad evd s a as served and plate or hte idli thatte t aka sae lk a like (shaped ai mudde ragi thy kar jyothy gatti t and balls), ahvnr Saie Hotel, Shavige At terraces. on Raghavendra yarn silken of home screens like dried at and industries made where is (vermicelli) lane entire also its for is famous Davangere mandakki. and served with butter white of dollops generous the Pak Mysore Sweets. Guru from and Factory Soda milk the rule to with Washdown roost. it continue fare veg biryani, seafood non- Mess/Tegufor RR Mess and for Fishland Poojary’s pulao, for mutton Hanumanthu’s meals, Nasheman Andhra for RRR Indian snacks, South for (Gayatri Room) GTR Tiffin and Mylari eateries like Local Pak. Mysore the Mysore bonda soup and of course dosa, masala Mysore like dishes iconic spawned that destination curry), chops, with ie into puffed rice Masala spice Angadi Mandakki Swamy TS like Manjunath stalls evening, Every bajji mensinkayi with along rice) puffed (spiced as served rice), (mills) produce of Hundreds Hotel. Dosa savoured at Kottureshwara Benne mash) and coconut chutney, best aagr’ fasi ds is dish flagship Davangere’s culinary major a is Mysuru kaal and other coolers at Brahmin md with made dosa, benne mamsa saaru saaru mamsa ae mamsa tale (trotter) soup. (trotter) aaa khara masala, kaima unde Shavige mandakki oggarne oggarne mandakki mandakki alu palya cil fritters). (chilli (brain curry) curry) (brain tet an Street, (mutton or (potato (puffed shavige (keema bhattis badam nargis eih wt lcl ncs like snacks epicurean ‘Mangalore Buns’, local an with delight is Mangaluru cuisine. distinct each their for known communities, various to home is It Kannada. Uttara and Xxx) Page (See Udupi to Kannada flavours transition from Dakshina Karnataka’s Coastal Karwar, and Mangaluru between Hemmed Coastal chutney. coconut watery of ladles with savoured are shavige with heaped plates upig tae i la cups) leaf in steamed dumpling in leaves), steamed screwpine like idlis (cylindrical staples unique try Youcan TajmahalCafé. New at experienced best roti, biscuit and roti khara sajjige-bajjil, shira, The simple yet filling Udupi filling yet simple The K arnataka goli bajji, uppit- gunda at Mavalli Rooms at Tiffin thali moode (rice ‘mum’s food’) for a taste. a for ‘mum’sfood’) (literally, jowan’ or ‘mai bai Restaurant Mary & Bar Mangala Drop by at William Pereira Hotel, sannas. and stew fish chicken curry, Mangalorean curry), offal rm lne Bag cil and round chilli Byadgi slender from sourced curries, and fries in used the masala red or is powder ‘baffath’ food Mangalorean to form or as coconut milk. The key grated in oil, as – used widely is leaves). jackfruit and ok indad, pork baffath, pork aubergines), gulla striped salad round brinjal the (using salad, pork like dishes for known Catholic is community Mangalore The chili. Being a coastal tract, coconut tract, coastal a Being khotte r mensinkai uru ils tae in steamed (idlis aes ankiti kalees flavourkarna of s r Kumta or mattu (pork Karnataka nth kolari srikanth t aka 27 ▼ 28 Karnataka Cuisine Udupi A bowl of bowl A produce gods. the for fit truly is that food to merged tradition and culinary Religion Udupi. in about hung he that ensure to enough well cook to had to also but required godchild, the worship rituals correctly exacting the just not learn to had it surround that maths devotees. feeding of tradition the cultivated also authorities temple the Gradually, daily. deity the to offered are varieties— 14 than fewer delicacies—no the belief in This foods. resulted delicious by stay to enticed was he unless would away devout wander Krishna baby The the that Krishna. believed godchild the devised a set of elegant rituals to worship sage coast. The western Karnataka’s on town a Udupi, TempleKrishna in Sri the saint- the established Madhvacharya when philosopher century, 13th the to back dates that tradition culinary a with do to little has consciousness popular of to Most people believe that ‘Udupi’ amounts roducing karna introducing . However, the Udupi However,the idli-vada-sambar. The Brahmins in the temple and the and temple the in Brahmins The koosambri where naivedyam, t aka shutterstock off with Udupi with off the comes and Next course. first the as rice with served buttermilk, with thinned coconut, pepper, with ground then Seasonal greens are fried with coolant. ultimate the considered thambli, the like salads of consist will meal a So heat. coastal Matti. of hamlet the in only grows that brinjal greenish squat a the gulla, matti around fashioned dishes the than typify scrumptious more are None food. that Udupi dishes signature devised strict Within instance. for taboo, are garlic and Onion to a rigorous system laid down by priests. according chosen are used vegetables the even that cooking Udupi of tradition (the Brahmin loves his food too well).” well).” too food his loves Brahmin (the the in priya bhojana “Brahmana popular towns: coastal so is proverb bland mocking to addition fiery monsoon fare. No wonder then this faintly a are these salt, and chilli red tamarind, with spiced colocasia leaves, ridge gourd, or yam and with ground Freshly rice. boiled with well spicy make Brahmins delicacy. typical a is pumpkin white raw from made feature. prominent a are lentils content, protein their for cooking; Udupi of philosophy the to central is diet nutritious balanced, A tree. teak the of leaves the in steamed and coconut with batter thick a to ground is steamed. jackfruit Ripe and leaves jackfruit of cups cuisine. Udupi of part a form foods steamed of variety Home food is light and cooling in the in cooling and light is food Home the is temple the with entwined So hog te oso, h Udupi the monsoon, the Through a tradition, coastal with keeping In . The meal is rounded sambar. is meal The boundaries, the chefs the boundaries, satvik rasam. atr s ord into poured is batter Idli rd dal urad Te the Then koosambri. that go go that chutneys dia gojju, Udhina rud with ground and jeera, ghee and korma korma and biryani chicken), fried dessert), egg pancake), like Bearys is known for rare delicacies of community trading The fries. fish assorted and thali fish GSB a sample to place the is Manja’s severe a Giri fish. eat to them led famine where system, river Saraswati the to (Bengal) Gaud a are from migrated GSBs have to believed follow as diet pescatarian they being Despite Brahmins, asafoetida. or GSB cuisine is dominated by Narayana’s jetty.the near or Grove Coconut (silverfish) fry, masala (ladyfish) like dishes Bunt iconic with (spicy) flavour. Seafood is aplenty orn aet seily for especially boothai a agent as used souring and pickled widely bimbli in fried coconut masala oil. The fleshy and tangy red crunchy with topped fry, tawa (kingfish) ‘chicken pulimunchi’, a curry curry named after its a becoming pulimunchi’, up ‘chicken ended usually were rooster losing the and common competitions fighting rice. boiled from made roti wafer-thin crisp with with served curry chicken flavourful community) (Tulu- speaking Tuluvas or Bunts the of ad aawt rhi or Brahmin Saraswat Gaud In the past, the In dish traditional a is Kori-roti kalathappa (vermicelli payasa). (vermicelli is bilimbi) (Averrhoa fruit (sardine) pinyanappa rava koli norchad koli puli koli-katta (thick savoury savoury (thick r and fry Et at Eat sukka. (sour)-munchi (steamed (stuffed or cock or bolanjir anjal sheer kane hing Mary Bai cookig her signature dish signature her cookig Bai Mary ih rws n a ic of pinch a vermicelli. delicate and prawns anwith make They exquisite Arabia. with while local tastes Konkani, blend from seamlessly heavily new borrows a dialect Their arrived’. newly ‘the form to or Nav-ayaths called community GSBs Jains and local with intermingled trade Arabian for here came who curry). sailors brinjal (sour and vinegar) with pyaaz ka paired sirke often biryanis, its for known Bhatkal, of town port old the to coast the up Continue Home. Lunch Shetty the legendary in birthed were roast ghee chicken and the chicken Kundapur where hotspot epicurean Further north, Kundapur is an shaiyya jhinga biryani biryani jhinga shaiyya ana k khatta ka baingan oin n cashew in (onion flavourkarna of s Photographs by Photographs Karnataka g mallick anurg t aka 29 ▼ 30 Karnataka A tasty fish speciality fish tasty A roducing karna introducing sotet f efo from an uggi/mastani seafood Try bandga of Karnataka. assortment to Goa the along Konkan coast from Maharashtra, all popular cooler and milk fresh ground masala is a coconut digestive kokum, of curries. Sol Kadi, a piquant blend are in agents souring as relative) used widely pepper Sichuan curry). Kokum and fry stir (horsegram of farmer the staple and curry) prawn and dishes like Karwar flavours Konkani with resonates Goa, of cashew). south raw Located with gourd (ivy vegetable side dish like Kannada, Uttara usually served with fish fry and a to up right coast the along all staple major ih ur-ie om the forms curry-rice Fish grii) n tpa (a teppal and (garcinia) t uih upkari-saaru kulith aka sungta song (mackerel), tindli-moi (thick delightful out churn and food to approach scientific a have who Brahmins, Haviyak to home also is Malnad (yam). suvarnagadde dindu bale carrot, beetroot, from made are with called salads Traditional ones cucumber. sweet or pumpkin coconut, spiced or with lentils) envelopes (rice savoury the it be of plethora a kadabus out churn and shoot), (bamboo from Gowdas delicacies up The rustle fare. steamed of and honey, besides an assortment produce like bamboo, mushrooms wild and ferns herbs, for known and 32) Malnad Page in the Western Ghats are cuisine Kodava coast, the the hill tracts of Coorg (See to parallel inland Running Malnad (clam) kalwa ad nrae te body’s the increases immunity. and C Vitamin with packed is coconut, fresh and gooseberry) or (amla tambuli cooler. aperitif and root buttermilk, is a lightly turmeric spiced fresh from made combat climes. cold the to coolers) (medicinal and chutneys (raita), oe r utr alc prawns garlic and butter or Home Hotel Amrut. Hotel eie Jis n Lingayats, and Jains Besides karle ambat karle (oyster) sukka ae f dried of made semd upig) – dumplings) (steamed gojjus bnn se) and stem) (banana t wta Lunch Swetha at Shunti oaiu nellikayi Vonagiru sukka (crab masala) at masala) (crab Arshina tambuli, Arshina (curries), kesa hr kadabu khara (colocasia) and tambulis nellikayi Bellada kismuri hashis kallele tisrya tisrya rfr it prefer North of plains Karnataka hardy the In North shunti from (ginger) and made Kashaya, minor ailments. minor garlic and onion, fortifies against with pepper, dry red chili, cumin, pudis served assorted are meal the Also with along crunchier. them makes that seeds packed closely as have less water content with tiny act and roughage. cholesterol, The country diabetes cucumbers cut control help Methi leaves cucumbers. heirloom pachadi with begin customarily as consumed staple primary the is A scumptious spread of traditional lunch traditional of spread scumptious A oaa roti jolada pwes pce with packed (powders) K arnataka fngek aa) and salad) (fenugreek jola kadak bella (jowar or sorghum) fabed; some (flatbread); (jaggery) (jaggery) spiced cip. Meals (crisp). menthya with sprinkled liberally curry), gram palya hesarakalu and cubes) flour gram (steamed badnekayi Et tet frs p h evening the up fires Street) (Eat Galli Khau Bail, legendary Hubballi’s Durgada climate. hot the combat help curry) (buttermilk taste. and Buttermilk characteristic imparts serve that Basaveshwara Khanavali and like Basappa Khanavali (eateries) Lingayat with dotted are Hubballi-Dharwad twin of The towns vegetarians. are and Karnataka North in community chutney.(groundnut) or additives – dietary great make that protein ucchelu igyt fr a prominent a form Lingayats gural (Niger seed) and (brinjal curry), curry), (brinjal oaa roti jolada agasi or chl pudi uchhel (flax seed), flavourkarna of s woe green (whole ajg saaru majjige with khanavalis jhunka shenga yenne Karnataka gural that t aka 31 ▼ Karnataka cuisine flavours of karnataka

and its underpinning is rice. The coffee with stalls serving everything Kodava Cuisine plantations were a 19th-century British from chaat, bhelpuri, ‘tomato’ Driving around Coorg, it’s easy to lose enterprise; before that it was rice that ruled omelette and other snacks! L.E.A. one’s bearings. The district is essentially the land. The paddy fields needed protection (Lingayat Educational one big tree-shadowed coffee estate cut up from wild boars, which were shot and eaten, Association) Canteen is known by winding hill roads and the occasional resulting in that prince of Kodava dishes, for its terrific thuppa avalakki small town market square with many pork pandi curry—succulent pork cubes coated (beaten rice with ghee) and their shops and, always prominent among the in a tangy, smooth and very dark masala. signature Masala Toast! vegetable displays, the bright green and Pandi has come to represent the The region has several native yellow stripes of the rotund Mangalore specialness of Kodava cuisine—not only vegetables and dishes unique to sautekaayi (cucumber). The plantation because it is one of those rare South Indian the region. Tingal avrekayi is a bungalows are always tucked away at the pork dishes but also for its unique taste. local bean available only for a end of long driveways. Arriving at these Pandi is tantalising partly because the dry tingalu (‘month’ in Kannada) bungalows, the overwhelming feeling is one spices used in it are roasted before they are while karchikai (Momordica of seclusion. This cut-off-from-the-world ground. The other vital factor is kachampuli, cymbalaria) is a tiny pod feeling is what everyone comes to Coorg a local fruit that adds that crucial pungency vegetable that must be consumed for. And as well-travelled and sociable as to the meat. Another delicacy is tender immediately after harvest, before the Kodavas are, it is the rhythms of the bamboo shoot or baimbale. it bursts open. Both are made seasons and the produce of the land that As for paddy, even though the Kodavas into palya (stir fry). Also popular Hubli Basaveshwar Khanavali Lingayat continue to define Kodava food. do not grow very much of it any more, they are items like jowari dodda The centrepiece of this cuisine is meat continue to honour those rice-eating mensinkayi (stuffed country north. Savajis or SSKs traditions of old—pouring thin chicken curry capsicum) and gulagayi yenagai (Somavamsha Sahasrarjun Pandi curry (pork curry) is unique to over the rice noodle-like nool puttu, turning (like a country cucumber). Kshatriyas) claim descent from out delicious rice-and-coconut cakes called Besides jolada roti, North the mythic thousand-armed pa-puttu, and insisting that pandi curry only Karnataka has typical staples like warrior Kartiveerya Arjun and be eaten with kadambuttu (small, firm balls dapati (mixed flour masala roti). migrated from Central India to of steamed rice). Their rotis are akki (rice) Wheat is used to make kuchida Karnataka and Maharashtra. As ottis; their standard dessert payasa is kadabu (wheat dumpling), kshatriyas, bold flavours of meat broken rice cooked in coconut and jaggery; kudisida kadabu (stuffed and spice dominate their rich and Kodava snacks, such as bado-kajaya dumpling) and uggi chapattis, cuisine. During the festival of and chikka-lunde, are made of rice flour. steamed on green cornhusk and Dussehra, they offer edimi Were one to eat one’s way down the served with spicy kempu (red) (wheat-gram flour dumplings), Western Ghats, the continuities in the food chili chutney and ghee! There’s a arithi (wheat flour diyas) and would be hard to miss. Bamboo shoot is a tradition of pasta making as well lalpani (liquor) to their part of Mangalorean food, too, as is where little dough beads are paramount deity Bhavani. kadambuttu, which the Mangaloreans call pressed on a comb for stripes Eateries such as Nakoda and pundi. The idiappam of Kerala is the nool and shaped into miniature shells Devika in Hubli and Savaji Hotel puttu of Coorg and the shavige of Mangalore. or ‘shankha’. The broken wheat Milan and Kathare’s in Dharwad Yet, unlike Mangaloreans and Malayalis, kheer soute bija huggi resembles serve kaima unde (keema ball), the Kodavas go easy with the coconut, tiny soute bija (cucumber seeds) mutton chops, khara boti, tale while the location of Coorg makes seafood and is a must in all Lingayat mamsa (brain curry) and karadu marginal to its cuisine. Most importantly, of marriages and functions! (spicy) mutton. course, only Coorg has got the pandi! Yet, all is not vegetarian up Northwest Karnataka shares a Jyothy Karat

32 Karnataka Karnataka 33 ▼ 34 Karnataka Korti Kolhar chicken curry meal curry chicken Kolhar Korti roducing karna introducing mxue sne 91 Js past Just is 1931. since (mixture) ‘khara’ Savanur Shivalal’s for legendary of Muslim principality erstwhile The town’ Byadgi. ‘Chili Karnataka’s from in procured are chilis farms while Haveri sheep from meat, sourced of choice popular the is and (Konkani crepe sweet pancake). Mutton khova Belagavi it Be of (Belgaum). cantonment is spice British erstwhile for the in apparent love Maratha and the Maharashtra with border wes o! egu i known their its for is love Belgaum too! locals sweets why see to it’seasy and essential is chili red or curries) kunda sukka t aka or caramelized milk caramelized or (spicy dry fry), fry), dry (spicy rassa mandige (fiery ae Cm, eert the food… its through celebrate Karnataka of diversity Come, fare. di roti, sarson da saag authentic out dishes nearby Restaurant Rohit feedswhile daily visitors of thousands Jhira Nanak Gurudwara at kitchen) (free langar The day. this to flows that Bidar in spring a created and of meat use the and a cuisine spicy heavy, of has influences Andhra Telangana, culinary and bordering Pradesh region, is eateries. local in served oota’, ‘Bijapur Vijayapura its for legendary rice). beaten and powder gram Bengal (spicy curd, served with from the Krishna river and fish fresh with travelers attracts the on Bijapur (Vijayapura) highway Korti-Kolhar Dam, Almatty second his during Deccan the Nanak to Guru came Punjabi 1512, great In cuisine! of boasts also Gulbarga). (earlier Kalaburagi and meetha ka bread lentils) with (meat biryani, dalcha Kalyani biryani, dum like dishes Hyderabad-inspired palya brinjals to Rayadurga local of addition The mutton. or lentils with cooked or chutney into made often and Karnataka North and Central in known as gongura h Hyderabad-Karnataka The eiv i o nt Karnataka not, or it Believe ds tpcl flavour. typical a adds udasi pundi palya, its popular mamsa (sorrel leaves). Locally leaves). (sorrel jhira siiul journey) (spiritual a k dl makki dal, ki mah r cmo in common are puttani-avalakki (mutton) or fresh water fresh or and Punjabi matka pundi layered Chiroti Central made of semolina, is and also popular. Rave Karnataka. South across and dessert, it is widely consumed snack teatime A cardamom. and jaggery, ghee, cashewnuts, or raisins sugar powdered flour, millet finger of made balls lemon-sized flavours. and textures of assortment delightful karadantu an Belgaum kunda fudge-like and be Peda soft Mysore Pak to granular Dharwad From would understatement. its sweets loves Karnataka that say To KARNATAOF SWEETS KA khova Cycle Ballari ua. ae an Hla s a is Halwa Hannu Bale sugar. Ragi or unde puri o rnh Gokak crunchy to Kraaa s a is Karnataka , peni utd ih castor with dusted are laddu or sweet, or laddu are s cip flaky crisp a is a laddu a unde,

dal prepare Catholics Mangalore the Year. Ugadi, New Kannada flatbread on made ritually sweet traditional a is Holige sweet. festive another Athirasa, or Kajjaya with fried along a filling, typically made during Deepavali, sweet is a with India) dumpling North in and (or Karchikai jaggery cardamom. coconut, grated with filled dumpling steamed a Kadabu, Kai is sweets traditional pumpkin! and cucumber from made desserts) sweet of range wide a has Malnad coast. dessert from Karnataka’s Karavali h ana Mni et Sheer Fest. Kurma, literally ‘milk with dates’ Monti annual and the weddings at must a gram, n o te ot loved most the of One payasa ae f pi green split of made kadabus flavourkarna of s , a moong a , vorn (steamed gujiya Karnataka t aka 35 ▼ 36 Karnataka Dharwad Peda; Mandige at Krishnamurti at Peda;Mandige Dharwad roducing karna introducing sweets of Karnataka. of sweets popular and iconic most the of some at look a Here’s coconut). f ea (hcpa lu) sugar flour), (chickpea besan of a is made fudge melt-in-your-mouth Pak Mysore sweet, Indian South popular most the Perhaps Mysore its for known is payasas Eid-ul-Fitr.on made pudding vermicelli festive a is Persian, in aaa s ae f abundantly available of made is payasa Muslim cuisine, Elaneer or Bonda Beary Mangaluru’s In functions. and and marriages all at must a milk, wheat cracked from made antk hs pehr of plethora a has Karnataka (kheer). Lingayat cuisine Lingayat (kheer). P bonda or ak t aka elaneer ug payasa huggi (tender Belgaum Belgaum sugar.castor of veneer Dharwad grainy,a and with the round is peda north, cousins the flat from its Unlike Bazaar! Line shop name the the area the at earned his queues long by Thakur. The Singh popularised Babu grandson was it to plague and made a to migrated due Unnao from Dharwad Ratan Thakur Ram Singh when years, 175 Peda’sDharwad legacygoesback Dharwad nte sweet— another for known is (Belagavi) Belgaum eponymous the Besides Mandige Belgaum ihes i cms n two in dense. and smooth comes or pores with variants—crumbly it unmatched its richness, for notorious and sweetness its for Renowned ghee. of quantities copious and o hc h added Belgaum created he which to he time the returned, By the milk had stove. coagulated the off was switch to forgot but milk Marwari, boiling Jakku better as known Mithaiwala, Gajanan who had cooks migrated from Marwar. Once to thanks accident oa I’ a ut n Brahmin in must a a like It’s folded dosa. is but roomali a is made on an upturned tava like thin a with sugar,and of ghee filling crepe A mandige. K kunda P unda eda a cetd by created was kunda. pedas. However, mande khoa , it khoa, kunda, and or or as ‘Gokak’ as first famous became it Gokak, at sold the karadantu became of Aiholli Amingad Savaligappa 1907, eventually and gum) (fried ‘karadi-antu’ called ingredients were fried, it was also ahm aey r h historic Halwa. Sandow Bhatkal the or Bakery Hashim from box a up Pick milk. wheat a Halwa, or godi of made sweet Godi glutinous its for is famous Bhatkal of town coastal The Bhatkal and nuts fruits, dry jaggery, of made Antinunde Amingad/Gokak large folded. being without baskets, in displayed weddings, Pakmelt-in-your-mouthMysore the of plate A antu Halwa (edible gum). Since the Since gum). (edible ae. eas i was it Because maker. karadantu. s taie snack teatime a is K In karadantu. aradantu ae bt a Bma Sweets Bombay Store. Khova Cycle Abid and at bite a or have bicycles on streets the trawl accentuates who vendors from Buy taste! the which brass plates, sal leaf eco-friendly from on containers dispensed and ‘cycle’ its for famous is (Bellary) Ballari ‘Cycle’ Ballari we ws ae aos byBazaar. Chappal in shop tiny a famous Malpuri’, ki Jaan made ‘Mamu was sweet The syrup. sugar in dunked and khoa with stuffed is sweet fried be to Not confused with malpua, this deep- malpuri. the a with with paan mithai stuffing a of paan like its (shaped for known is (Gulbarga) Kalaburagi While Malpuri Gulbarga’s sl o bicycles on sold khova, khoa), it is synonymous Khova flavourkarna of s Karnataka shutterstock t aka 37 ▼ 38 Karnataka rafts of Karnataka of Crafts artisan Bidriware a shows Delhi in parade Day Republic the at tableau Karnataka’s introducing colours and dyes, and paper made natural paste, gesso of layers thin school. distinct a as emerged paintings Mysuru century, III, Wodeyar Raja 18th Krishna under the In Mysuru. were artists sent rehabi many century although 17th region, the through shockwaves the in Vijayanagara of fall The Empire. Vijayanagara the of days the to back lineage their trace Mysuru The famous gold-leaf paintings of Mysuru The use of fine gold leaf over over leaf gold fine of use The litated by Raja Wodeyar of of Wodeyar Raja by litated K arna P aintings t aka eiiu sgiiac ad soft and significance religious go. you everywhere craft famous and old this of examples fine spot Karnataka, you’ll around travels your On surprise. a as come artefacts shouldn’t and furniture carved wooden of pieces beautiful most the of some produces rosewood and sandalwood of land the That W from secular life. secular from scenes and iconography religious are themes Common Mysuru paintings. distinguish pulp from ood Carving , with its its with Sandalwood, are to be found as inlay work. work. inlay as found be to are the craft rosewood of examples finest but clocks, and panels wall like items carved for used also is Rosewood furniture. long-lasting for recommend connoisseurs the etc. elephants, souvenir holders, card designs— jewellery boxes, decorative intricate pieces, small, and wood, is preferred for borders, are the highlight. the are borders, silk saris,especially withgoldzari meets Mysuru gorgeous. is this product end the craftsman-ship, when traditional and silk, raw India’s of Karnataka bulk the produces without saris. silk complete Mysuru’s be would Karnataka’s of mention No silk Mysuru work. inlay intricate with object royal-looking black-and-silver, rather gleaming, a is and a final washing, what emerges paste, special a of application the after Finally, gold. and silver of then etched is and fitted with inlays object resulting the of colour black the and articles, Bidriware cast to used is copper and zinc of any handicraft of types striking most the of one it developed the art further, making here Artisans dynasty. Bahmani the of capital the Bidar, new in home its bidriware. from found bidriware craft Persia, metal a comes Originally Bahmani Sultans the of land the From Bidriware and teak are what what are teak and Rosewood where. An alloy alloy An where. puja articles crafts crafts

from the small village of Kinhal. of village small the from dyes, vegetable represent a folk art that originated toys with has wooden painted These (Channapatna) received. a cousin famous only its attention of received fraction has Kinhal ToysKinhal social the region. this of nuances represent saris Ilkal embroidery. Kasuti intricate with (border) pallu silk red signature in dazzling shades of green with a this traditional sari usually comes Ilkal, in manufactured Originally Sari Ilkal Traditional Ilkal saris are a must-buy a are Traditionalsaris Ilkal o f crafts Karnataka nt P Prashnt K arna t aka anjir 39 ▼ 40 Karnataka Colourful Channapatna Colourful Toys introducing yuu Gnia ad took cards Ganjifa Mysuru, In rulers. Wodeyar the to thanks Mysuru at own its into came art Ganjifa Persia, in originated cards, and playing decorate to used Derived from the elaborate images Ganjifa items. wood of tradition Channa produce. of reproductions lifelike their for known particularly are artisans Gokak’s painted. being before gum, of layer a in covered toys—wooden all paste, with its assembled articles is for Belgaum, known to close Gokak, Toysof K arna okak and Gokak Art , also has a strong strong a has also patna, t aka Photographs: Channapatna g mallick anurg articles from bell metal. bell from articles craftsmen create daily household Mangalorean while hub casting bronze- old purposes. an is religious Nagamangala for made tradition, ancient Udupi is known for metal objects by Going Metalware of animal tiles. idols roof and pots figurines, deities, containers, mythological and jars sized large include Products Belgaum in village. Narayanpura and district village Khanpur Youat work at potters watch can Pottery durries. weaving for looms and in search Jamkhan of refuge Navalgund Bijapur and to established migrated weavers the of Vijayanagara, the between Sultans war the During Gali. Jamkhan on living Bijapur from weavers by made initially or Navalgund Durries vibrant-hued The Durries striking. incredibly clothing their make natural which hues vibrant and lishments embel metal motifs, traditional attire, colourful their for known well- are region, Hubli-Dharwad the around settled now people, once-nomadic a Lambanis, The K medium of storytelling. of medium a as game the using often epics, Hindu various from inspiration asuti Embroidery jamkhanas ■ ■ were 49, 2ndFloor, 560001 Bhavan, Course Khanija Race Road, Bengaluru, Karnataka Phone: 080-22352828, Mail:[email protected], Department of Department Tourism, Government ofKarnataka Website:http://www.karnatakatourism.org Cuisine of Karnataka ▼ 42 Karnataka ances of Karnataka of Dances introducing Ddaa rm northern from Doddata — Yaksha make it impossible to pigeonhole secular life. religious and from to inspiration growing draw hold, took really it that centuries, 19th and 18th the around Karnataka, western of the parts in was It 13th century. or 12th have the in may originated forms clear earliest 8th century, the though of Yakshagana’s movement Bhakti the to traced be can genesis exports.Its of one cultural famous Karnataka’smost be might Yakshagana An operatic form of dance theatre, Yakshagana It also took on elements that elements on took also It K aa o is ls cousins close its or gana, arna t aka itrad f Karnataka. of hinterland Gowda northern the Kuruba from community, the the of in rituals originated Shiva, Lord of form a Beeralingeshwara, Sri of worship the with associated closely dance, folk popular This Dollu rae mseiig audio- mesmerising experience. visual a create elaborately dancers made-up the and a costumed as providing narrative musicians singers and with night, the in start dance form. Typical performances mere a as — Karnataka southern from Mudalapaya and Mysuru; Ghatta Karnataka; K unitha aoe from dakore shutterstock had jumped into a sacrificial fire, father, her by insulted Sati, wife his that the finding after danced tandavam Shiva Lord when of legend created warrior Veerabhadra,the the with associated Originally a religious dance form V dexterity. demandand energy great that moves acrobatic synch off show group, perform dancers, The accompaniment. as and trumpets flutes with composition, musicthe in centrestage occupy made from the skin of a demon) have to said is Shiva Lord drum a legend, to according signify, or drums, Traditional Artists perform popular folk dances of Karnataka of dances folk popular perform Artists eeragase n i a in ing (to dollu ronised, rie fr t evocative its for abhinaya. praised right, own its a in school distinct into Mysuru evolve helping Bharatanatyam them of all IV, Wodeyar III, Raja Krishna then, and Wodeyar Wodeyar, Chamarajendra Raja — Krishna Wodeyars Mysuru the from patronage forms, found Bharatanatyam art other many with As Mysuru aros n aond with adorned beads. rudraksha as and up warriors dressed dancers, by male exclusively is performed dance still the of form religious to expanded include folk variants as well. The has Veeragase Bharatanatyam Karnataka 43 ▼ 44 Karnataka Beesu Kamsale depicts the slaying of a demon by Lord Mahadeshwara Lord by demon a of slaying the depicts Kamsale Beesu introducing rdtoa frs ti i js a phase. temporary just is this forms, traditional in interest displaying again once youth the with that hopes one have popularity,although in declined to seems Bharatanatyam Mysuru though, years, recent In Venkatalakshamma. K awardee Bhushan Padma successor, and her Thayamma Jatti guru and danseuse under came age golden etrs acn aon an around intricate dancing features members, community Vaidya by performed style, ritualistic This dance. Nagamandala the to rise given has Karnataka, of regions coastal the snake in practised of worship form a Nagaradhane, Nagamandala yuu Bharatanatyam’s Mysuru K arna mandala t aka si to said — h Kdvs ae several many of rituals,which are derived from and have traditions distinct Kodavas The Folk Shravanasura. demon the the depict legend of Mahadeshwara age, slaying early an from trained dancers, of groups thesmall provide and singers as accompaniment, kamsale called instruments Lord brass Cymbal-like of worship Shiva.of form a Mahadeshwara, the associated with dance a Kamsale, Kamsale comes Mysuru, around primarily state, the of parts southern the From K serpents — drawn on the floor.the on drawn — serpents symbolise the energy and spirit of amsale ances of Dances Nritya K o Beesu or nritya, odagu Courtesy wikipedia Performers taking part in the Bhoota kola or guliga ceremony guliga or kola Bhoota the in part Performerstaking ae, and canes, wielding women and men ing include forms folk Other horns. deer holding dancing in a martial style whilst a strictly religious form, with be men to used which Kombaat, nectar.distributing (Cauvery),there’s Then Mohini as Vishnu Lord depicts Kaveri of worship the goddess of part a and traditionally performed by unmarried women Ummathat, Bhasmasura. and Vishnu Lord of legend the with associated is warriors. swords,and fur holding men by performance as group a Bolukat, identity their ru dne ih performers swords. holding with dance group Suggi featur Kolaata, a Kunitha, the beat for the dancers, who who dancers, procession. a of part as the march for beat the set to hide, animal in wheel cart a drum made jaggahalige, by wrapping a the bullock of sound uses the Kunita Jaggahalige Ugadi, during Hubli-Dharwad of villages some in celebration favoured A Jaggahalige medium. invoking performer a of part the on taking and spirits the with culminates in an energetic dance, which goes on through the night, of ceremony The in the coastal found regions worship of deity Karnataka. family and spirit of form a is Bhootaradhane Bhoota ritya Nritya K unita of dances hoa Kola, Bhoota Karnataka K g mallick anurg arna ■ t aka 45 ▼ 46 Karnataka Music Carnatic A Carnatic music concert being held at a temple during a cultural festival cultural a during temple a at held being concert music Carnatic A introducing distinct schools, with a clean break break clean a with two schools, into distinct the evolve from to gift began divine heavens, a as purists by tradi music India’s that centu 13th or 12th the around was It Genesis T the sound of our ancient civilisation. civilisation. ancient our of sound the is music Carnatic soulful, and energetic Both by. and gone years composers, the from artistes poets, of work the forward carrying guru- parampara, the shishya valued that society a from sprung have only could art of form This to its rich cultural under cultural rich its to of testa stands music Carnatic complexity unmatched he K arna t aka tions, regarded regarded tions, pinnings. pinnings. ment ment ry ry t omlsn ad eietn the delineating and formalising at efforts whose early- Hampi, in centuries 16th and late-15th the in lived who highly complex style of Carnatic music. Carnatic of style complex highly the into evolved eventually emperors, and kings of patronage the under and, traditions (such as the Haridasas) that held sway, Bhakti Vaishnava the Hindustani was called it Vindhyas, the now of south But classical. is what to eventually, led, influences Islamic and Sangita century). (late-14th Sara the and century) (mid-13th the the of between publication time some happening It was the Haridasa Purandara Persian of arrival the India, north In agt Ratnakara Sangita getty images getty dasa, dasa,

the hearts of millions of Indians. of millions of hearts the that firmly established Carnatic music in synergy a formed radio of spread the a in and audiences), ticket-buying in growth (ensuing India of urbanisation rapid the arrived, Independence time the by Eventually, compositions. record to notation of usage increased the and tradition — the introduction of the violin, that changes Carnatic the of part integral an became more came empires Dikshitar.Muthuswami and Sastri, Syama Thyagaraja, — Trinity Carnatic the as to referred composers 18th the of century, came along half the three legendary second the in Govindacharya. Then, by refined later and the composer Venkatamakhi, of Mysuru, by century mid-17th the in devised been first have to believed is Carnatic, of Melakartas, survived. have these of of compo scores made having is with credited Purandaradasa music, Carnatic of Father the as to Referred right. own its in form music distinct a becoming it in resulted music Carnatic of elements these legends have passed on, but but on, passed have legends these Dwaram Venkata Vaidyanathan, Kunnakudi Gopalakrishnan, MS Chowdiah, kudalu Tiru Jayaraman, Lalgudi kumari, Pattammal, Vasantha ML Govindarajan, DK Sirkazhi Brothers, Alathur the stage: the to take maestros several see to privileged were then Audiences heyday. music’s Carnatic as regarded are Independence around years The Maestros With the arrival of the European European the of arrival the With root 72 of system The sitions; however, only a fraction fraction a only however, sitions; swamy Naidu, et al. Many of of Many al. et Naidu, swamy which form the foundations foundations the form which ragas, ma the the contemporary luminaries. contemporary TV as and TN Seshagopalan are among these such Sankaranarayanan, TV Artistes Gopalakrishnan, emerged. Hall. Albert Royal New York’s Carnegie Hall and London’s a in voice, career spanning seven decades, graced mellifluous Her India. for an but icon who tradition, became a cultural ambassador Carnatic the MS of light leading the Award, just wasn’t Subbulakshmi Magsaysay the of Ramon recipient a Also Subbulakshmi (1916-2004). Madurai — Shanmukhavadivu honour civilian highest to be awarded the Bharat Ratna, India’s who, in 1998, became the first musician of luminous personalities was the singer strong. going still are Krishnan, TN Balamura M Dr like some, welcoming new influences. new welcoming tradition, of standard the flying on, lives music Carnatic cinema. and fusion in mark their made who’ve Ragunathan, are Nithyasree Mahadevan and Sudha There collaborators. as Reed Lou and can fusion, Zappa, in Frank McLaughlin, John name work his for famous His Philharmonic. Lakshmi Yorkbrother, New the with performed and Hancock, Herbie violin pianist jazz and of YehudiMenuhin great likes the with recorded has Lakshmi rock. classical and pop fusion, jazz, in their use to training put have Many musicians elements. new incorporating the with times, keeping its essence intact, while moved has music Carnatic Future the of Sounds Over the years, new stars have have stars new years, the Over firmament this in star brightest The narayana Subramaniam narayana aaaa Shankar, narayana likrishna and and likrishna ■ carna Karnataka tic music 47 Photographs by anurag mallick Art and temple architecture flourished in Karnataka under several dynasties Heritage & Architecture receiving much royal patronage. called the Vesara style. During ■ anurag mallick and On a lonely hillock at In the 4th century, the local this period, Chalukyan temples PRIYA GANAPATHY Shravanabelagola, following the Satavahana dynasty rose and in Pattadakal, Aihole, Badami, example of his guru, reigned for nearly three centuries. and Gadag were conceived and arnataka’s architectural Chandragupta lived like a hermit Its disintegration gave rise to the Kannada literature evolved. heritage is shaped by the and gave up his life around Kadambas of Banavasi (325- In 753CE, the Rashtrakutas of Kvarious dynasties that 300BCE through the Jain 540CE) in North Karnataka and Manyakheta became the have held sway over it. It is said austerity of sallekhana (fast unto the Western Ganga dynasty of dominant power in the Deccan that a 12-year-long famine and death). The hill was called Kolar and Talakadu (350-550CE) for nearly three centuries. human misery caused monarch Chandrabetta or Chandragiri in in the south. These were the first At the turn of the millennium, Chandragupta Maurya to his memory. By 3rd century BCE, kingdoms to give official status Nripa Kama established the abdicate the throne and embrace the Mauryan Empire extended to the Kannada language, as Hoysala Empire. Art and Jainism. Led by his spiritual till Karnataka, ruled by Emperor evident in the Halmidi inscription architecture flourished, resulting teacher Bhadrabahu, the last Ashoka. Rock edicts of Ashoka of 450CE, attributed to the in the construction of temples acharya of the undivided Jain in Prakrit have been discovered Kadamba king Kakusthavarma. whose ‘sculptural exuberance’ can sangha, Maurya and 12,000 in Chitradurga and Raichur. The rise of the imperial be seen in Belur and Halebid. disciples left for South India led Understandably, both Buddhism Chalukyas of Badami paved the In the 14th century, to counter by their quest for inner peace. and Jainism thrived in Karnataka, way for a new architectural idiom the Muslim expansion towards

48 Karnataka Karnataka 49 ▼ 50 Karnataka Sacred footprints at Chandragiri at footprints Sacred introducing came under the Mughal Empire. Mughal the under came the five eventually into region the kingdoms, of sultanate Bahmani fragmentation the Following culture. ‘Dakkani’ architecture, promoting a unique The and Persian literature and region. Islamic the Bahmani rulers encouraged Urdu over ruled the Vijayapura of sultans and Shahi Adil Kalaburagi of sultans Bahmani the decline, its resulting and Talikota of Battle 1565 the in Empire Vijayanagara the of defeat the Sanskrit, After works. great in spawning Telugu, and Kannada, literature and religion, arts, encouraged kings Vijayanagara The capital. the its as establish to Vijayanagara Empire with Hampi Bukka and Vidyaranya sage Harihara brothers the got Swami south, the K arna t aka shutterstock n so a te itrc Sikh historic the Jheera. Nanak Guru of shrine at stop and bastions of Kalaburagi and Bidar; and Bahmani in architecture Muslim Persian of relics discover unsupported dome, Gol largest Gumbaz at Vijayapura; second world’sthe under echos to listen opulent palaces of the Wodeyars; the explore Shravanabelagola; at massive the to statue (Bahubali) Gomateshwara trail Jain a on embark architecture’; Indian and of ‘cradle the temples as described cave shrines of trinity visit the Hampi; Badami-Aihole-Pattadakal, of site Heritage World UNESCO Stone the at the Chariot the and at pillars musical marvel sites; known Hoysala stone lesser to Hoysala architecture, of gems twin monuments. fascinating through history its of layers reveals Karnataka cantonment. British a as Bangalore of evolution the and Raj British the into Mysuru of incorporation the and death his in resulted which of last the Wars,Anglo-Mysuru four fought Mysuru’ of Tiger ‘The or Sultan Tipu India, South in expansion European resist To Sultan. son Tipu his to passed control until assumed control over the region, Ali Haider commander-in-chief army’s Mysuru the Krishnaraja II, Wodeyar of death Aurangzeb. the With emperor Mughal Empire, leased the state from the former vassals of the Vijayanagara Go beyond Belur-Halebid, the Mysuru, of Wodeyars The ■ 49, 2ndFloor, 560001 Bhavan, Course Khanija Race Road, Bengaluru, Karnataka Phone: 080-22352828, Mail:[email protected], Department of Department Tourism, Government ofKarnataka Experience Seaside Website:http://www.karnatakatourism.org ▼ 52 Karnataka e Big The Karnataka to world the over all from artistes FestivalPattadakalbrings Dance The introducing is usually a mix of experiences! of mix a usually is remin too-important all- an as from serves which chilli, and made tamarind, mango, jaggery,neem, paste hot-bitter ritual tasting of the miss Don’t baths, tradition. temple visits are part of the Ugadi Ritual family and dishes, special of preparation close of members. gathering and a renewal late March or early April, usually with for in celebrated time anticipation, a is Ugadi of year new Kannada The Ugadi K arna b Festivals evu bella, a sweet-sour- t aka der that life life that der aos adcat before handicrafts famous here, pick up some you’re of Karnataka’s while And corner. every at dance and music there’s and night. of this one-time imperial capital, by grandeur royal the evoking area, the through march dazzling Processions look in haun already (usually November). Utsav The old monuments, Hampi three-day the during than here be to time better no there’s but the World Heritage Site visit of to Hampi, time good a is time Any Festival Hampi igy gorgeous, tingly Badami and Aihole join in the the in festivities. exuberant join here. Aihole and congregating Badami world over all the from performers with (also the as known the Festival for Dance venue Pattadakal the is temples, over-a-millennium-old exquisite, stronghold of Pattadakal, a site of Heritage World Chalukyan February,the In Sites. be significant to enough monuments two Karnataka is home to not one but P temples. ancient beau the against place classical taking artistes with Hoysala perform the up Mahotsava, and put left Belur Halebid March, they In behind. temples stunning be celeb contributions Hosyalas’ the remarkable that fitting it’s only So to Karnataka. wealth modern-day cultural has unbelievable of amount Dynasty an bequeathed Hoysala The Mahotsava Hoysala ons n sgt o the a of Festival, marriage. their of celebration Car sights Virupaksha and the to sounds up wakes Hampi April, March- in and Shiva, Lord with Pampa of betrothal ritual annual the for time Hampi it’sDecember, in Utsav; the for time in it make Hampi. to adieu bidding attadakal u dnt rt f o can’t you if fret don’t But iu bcdo o these of backdrop tiful the Festival, Puja Phala rated with a festival at the the at festival a with rated ne b renowned by ances ance Festival Dance Chalukya Utsava) Chalukya

dance, music and frolic. and music dance, cutting of the crop and, of course, ritual There’s mid-December). to Namme (‘new rice’; late-November Mandya region is the is region Mandya the in events biggest the of One V harvest with season the commemorate to continue they And society. their in held cultivation rice place the but the Kodavas haven’t forgotten environs), serene the from (apart plantations coffee its for known best be might region Kodagu The Huthri Folk performers at Folkperformers airamudi or Huthri, ampi FestivalHampi Vairamudi Photographs: THE Puttari Puttari F ESTIVALBIG S Karnataka getty images getty

53 ▼ 54 Karnataka Ellu bella, a special Makar Sankranti dish Sankranti Makar special a bella, Ellu introducing Cuey gives (Cauvery) Kaveri goddess believe Devotees Tula sun the the day enters the on October, in held is Sankramana Kaveri or Primarily a Kodagu tradition, Tula TulaSankramana Cheluva a Lord crown. his wearing Narayana in of fortnight-long procession culminate the festivities or March April), (during the Melukote in at Cheluva Narayana Swamy Held Temple Brahmotsava. river’s waters fill up a tank. And And tank. a up fill waters Kaveri river’s the the which in ceremony, of a for taste hills Kodagu the in temple town small the for Head auspicious day. this on Talacauvery K arna t aka theerthodbhava (Libra). rashi darshan shutterstock at at

due in 2030. in due Maha at perform to look top-down allowed are Jains only statue; the rare a a for up in climb scaffolding raised for the may purpose, festival, once pilgrims the all During place years. 12 takes that of Gomateshwara is a grand event anoin ritual Gomateshwara The (Bahubali). of statue 17m high a with centre Jain ancient an is Karnataka, South of district Hassan the in Shravanabelagola, Mahamastakabhisheka the ritual feeding of cows. of feeding ritual the witness might you and temple, peanuts. a or Karnataka rural and to over Head jaggery, gram, sesame, coconut, of mixture a prepared dish specially for A Sankranti is family. friends and visiting and temples, at offerings ritual prayers, of time a 14, when the sun (January enters Capricorn) is Sankranti Makar that’s of festival harvest the Karnataka, festival in gusto much as with celebrated pan-India A Sankranti Makar merry-making and celebration. celebration. and merry-making for time it’s nightfall, worship. come and for Villages stage events and contests, weapons out take their tradition, by warriors is August. This is when the for Kodavas, in drop to want might visitors that festival Kodagu water.Another holy that don’t forget to carry back some of mastakabhisheka festival is is festival mastakabhisheka . The next next The abhisheka. ■ in in Kailpoldh ellu bella, ting ting

At the centre of the Mysuru royal crest is the mythical bird Ganda-Berunda bird mythical the is crest royal Mysuru the of centre the At ak. hr i none is the There than imposing more marks. land many Mysuru’s view to in trooping many the and city. the dot that sabhas gayana grounds palace the on held concerts of out wafting music the with winter,coming the of hint that just suffused Eve yards. front the in drawn are powders) coloured using art (pictorial Elaborate evil. over good of ph Dasara, a ritual remembrance of the tri of of festival the days mark ceremony Ten and own. pomp her into comes city, truly elegant most Karnataka’s Mysuru, when is October early or September Late TenPerfect A Streets fill up with hundreds of visitors of hundreds with up fill Streets ma Vilas Amba n ns bear ings rangolis um

Kannada heritage. Kannada veri a comprise which grand royal caparisoned a atop elephant. hours several for deity of Karnataka, is taken around the city idol of goddess Bhuvaneshwari, the patron the of the when culminates scion it dynasty, Wodeyar the by a prayer with ceremonial Starting procession. Dasara the for force full in out is regalia princely day, id ht s h ryl mlm f the of emblem royal Wodeyars. the is that bird double-headed the mythical the the of Berunda, featuring insignia Throne embedded Golden the Palace, lit up in all its grandeur. It displays as utr bed salsl with seamlessly blends culture Mass ial, on Finally, u drn tee festivities, these during eur te 10th the Dashami, Vijaya THE al socs of showcase table F ESTIVALBIG S Karnataka Ganda- saibl das 55 shutterstock Wildlife in Karnataka The national parks of Karnataka are a delight for wildlife and nature lovers The Kabini flows along the Heritage Sites. Karnataka’s wide- ■ anurag mallick and National Parks (Anshi, Bandipur, park’s southern boundary and ranging habitat supports a rich PRIYA GANAPATHY Bannerghatta, Kudremukh, and forms a reservoir further down diversity of animal species and Nagarhole), 18 wildlife stream to the south, forming a over 400 species of birds. orests cover a fifth of sanctuaries, and nearly a dozen boundary with Bandipur (880 Perhaps the first step towards Karnataka’s geographical bird sanctuaries. The Nilgiri sq km), where the Deccan Plateau organised wildlife in Karnataka Farea, though only 3% Biosphere Reserve, located at the rises to meet the wrinkled folds started with the Maharajas of landmass (roughly 6,600 sq km), junction of Karnataka, Tamil of the Western Ghats. Mysuru. The wild tracts around is dedicated to wildlife. Yet, Nadu, and Kerala, encloses Recognised as one of 18 global Mysuru were littered with Karnataka supports the largest within its range the world- biodiversity hotspots, the hunting lodges located deep in elephant population in India famous Nagarhole and Bandipur Western Ghats harbour most of the jungle. Set against the (nearly one-fourth), the highest National Parks. Nagarhole (575 Karnataka’s important protected backdrop of the misty Nilgiris, concentration of gaur (over sq km), literally ‘Serpent Stream’ areas. Two sub-clusters of the Bandipur was once the Maharajas’ 8,000) and one of the largest in Kannada, is named after a Western Ghats, Talacauvery and private hunting ground, as were remaining populations of the small river that meanders Kudremukh (600.32 sq km), are Nagarhole, Karapura in the endangered tiger (one-fifth). In through the centre of the park, in UNESCO’s tentative list of eastern fringe of Kabini sanctuary, this state, you will find five before joining the river Kabini. sites to be designated as World and Biligiri Rangaswamy Hills.

56 Karnataka Karnataka 57 ▼ 58 Karnataka Chameleons, tree frogs add to biodiversity to add frogs tree Chameleons, introducing ytm f atrn elephants. capturing of system the perfect and pioneer to Sanderson GP officer led British festival Dasara Mysuru the administration. his personal under was Zoo Mysuru the 1912, Till Gardens. Zoological evolved into which animals, and birds house to enclosure 10-acre a Mysuru, salse the established he 1892, In Indian Wildlife. for the Board of Chairman the first became Bahadur Wodeyar Karnataka. in parks national day modern- for them blueprints became surrounding wildlife the preserves and lodges These h ne fr lpat for elephants for need The aaaa Jayachamarajendra Maharaja K arna t aka Sri Chamarajendra shutterst ock Photographs: ha bangla Khaas kheddah at lo t a egt f 0f. t is It 300ft. of height limestone a to floor monolithic structure towering over the a forest is dense veneratedRock Syntheri Dandeli, of forests the in the Located Shivling. particular in to 40ft of formations, stalagmite the enjoy passage winding a 375 steps descend and then crawl to through have You entrance. are quite tiny and have a seperate at the heart of Dandeli Sanctuary, and Caves, Kavala unique. haunt is habitat wildlife each andkm), sq (475.02 Sanctuary WildernessWildlife at Camp Kali Adventure the or Hills BR in camp Gudi K it Be corner. picnic a and museum, a herbivore a park, reptile a zoo, mini a safari, safari, tiger and is 22km lion a has It Bengaluru. of south located km), adventure sq (260.51 Park National wild Bannerghatta your elephant an of programme. interaction site the now Coorg is trained, be to used for Dasara the in elephants where Forest (Kodagu), guards. Reserve or as mahouts tribes local for created were Department Forest the with Jobs Nagarhole. to Mysuru in palace Maharaja’s the from disallowed, 1970s early wild was elephants were transferred in the capturing elephants and ended Mastigudi at recedes. Kabini the when seen be still can old these of Remains Perhaps the best place to start to place best the Perhaps After kheddah operations were kheddahs Dandeli Dubare

Elephants, once chased and captured, now have a thriving presence in the state the in presence thriving a have now captured, and chased once Elephants, semi-evergreen forests, as well as well as forests, semi-evergreen and evergreen by characterised sanctuaries wildlife several has regions. both of flora has the of and junction Ghats, Western and Eastern the at is km) sq (492.46 Sanctuary Wildlife lories. Indian and hornbill Indian great the macaque, lion- tailed endangered the of refuge a is Sanctuary Wildlife Valley the dense rich biodiversity, A with rainforest century. evergreen 20th the in it discovered who Cinthera, Ms Englishwoman after named n h Wsen ht, Coorg Ghats, Western the In Biligiriranga Swamy Temple Sharavathi daet o hmg town. Shimoga is to km) sq adjacent (395.6 while district, Shettihalli Shimoga in lie oad Sioa and and Gudavi Mandagadde Shimoga Kudremukh. radiating towards in Budan Chikkamagaluru Baba from coast the along running green of swathe north Nagarhole. of edge western the touches tip eastern Brahmagiri (181.8 sq km), whose Cauvery; and km); river sq (102.59 Pushpagiri the the of after origin named km), sq (105 regions—Talacauvery upper in the habitat shola-grassland the nte ky u i a huge a is hub key Another id sanctuaries bird WILDLIFE IN Karnataka K g mallick anurg arna

t aka 59 ▼ 60 Karnataka Jungle Lodges and Resorts and Lodges Jungle Camp Elephant Dubare at bath Lodge; River Kabini pioneer eco-tourism The introducing ae r Gnu a, pn a thrilling a spent Rao, Gundu Sri the late minister, chief Karnataka former sanctuaries. wildlife and parks national many state’s the in holidays experiential the of part intrinsic an be government. Karnataka the by up set umbrella of Jungle the Lodges and under Resorts, lodges, of string a is today lands forested stunning Spread these across ilk. every of photographers and lover,buffs, wildlife botany the the seduce jungles now,the forests; these to came globe the across from hunters T ■

hi handu Aroshi The inspiration came in 1978, when These lodges have been curated to rts t te ue o Russia, of Dukes the to British Fromthe history. royal and long a have Karnataka of forests he K arna t aka to the Karnataka government. Karnataka the to reins the managerial over handed and operations its withdraw to decided TopsTiger no 1987, In them. was to stranger JLR and challenges, come ideas great With (JLR). Resorts and Thus, in 1980, was born Jungle Lodges Karnataka. in home back resort similar commissioned he Tiger Topsa build to so, And imagination. Rao’s Tops captured Tiger at experience his and — bears, species bird tigers,of host a and sloth crocodiles, — leopards, wildlife elephants, of plethora its Parkwith National Chitwan the of aura magical The Nepal. in Lodges Jungle holiday attheworld-famous Tiger Tops epe Ti gop f 6 eot set resorts 16 of group This people. for eye-opener an as serving tourism, JLR was India’s first foray into eco- into foray first India’s was JLR ges / india / images almy picture are fewer in number.in fewer are sightings animal the but greenery with lush while are forests Kabini, the monsoons during river the of banks the to animals the bring hot months summer The a ride. on boat or out safari morning head you you leave as will spellbound properties JLR the anecdotes, storyteller.inner their nourishing personal sharing or even wild the in day the of happenings exciting the with other each regaling campfire, the by gathers everyone as interesting are Mealtimes feeling. like community- a invoke JLR of properties varied the cottage, independent an or conservation. environment aids turn in which etc, rafting whitewater fishing, camping, trekking, tourism, adventure and wildlife of hub a is reserves and sanctuaries many Karnataka’s amidst JLR’s of location and beauty serene The room, tent, a for opt you Whether is is Lodge River Kabini nth kolari Srikanth xeine s nw t tuh the touch mind. one’s of to recesses deepest known is experience an environmental activist — the wildlife these forested and riverine habitats as leave to prepared Be wild. the to visit a than granted for take we much how waters. swirling the in lost tragically are fledglings nests and their latifs’, ‘late the for the island; drown waters monsoon the time the by island the off well fledglings the of most with perfect, be to has period nesting the for timing The nursery. a as waters Bhadra the on island an use terns river of thousands how discover another you as up altogether, experience unique opens hand, other the them. of care learn about their food habits and how to take also you’d scrub-bath; by giving a and them elephants closely them the observing with ‘interact’ to get You beasts. wondrous these of the history, through ecology, and biological aspects guests take naturalists Asiatic elephant a little better as trained is where you can get to understand the up close and personal here. This camp them meet to get you’d and — them of lots Elephants, ticket. the just is Camp JLR’s experience? explore. to hungry adventurer, an into tourist a which transform traditions, and charms its has property 54-acre This wild. the the of call with echoes Lodge River Kabini the uncommon, not are sightings tiger where country, elephant of heart the in estate colonial sprawling A reason. good with and — world the in lodges wildlife five top the of one considered Nothing makes you more aware of aware more you makes Nothing once-in-a-lifetime a for Looking on Lodge, Tern River JUNGLE uae Elephant Dubare LODGES AND Karnataka ■ RESORTS 61 ▼ 62 Karnataka Safaris make for a thrilling experience thrilling a for make Safaris introducing odcs eerh n ra like areas in which research conducts 2005 in Research (ARRS) Station Rainforest the up Agumbe herpetologist set Whitaker Romulus region, the well-known in snakes towards showed people reverence the by bounty all year nature’sround. Fascinated offers Agumbe capital, blackbuck. the protect to sanctuary a declared was km) sq (119 Ranibennur peacock. the to dedicated is district Mandya in km), sq (0.88 species. Adichunchangiri specific of protection the for up set preserves wildlife m ws prdd o tiger a to 1998. in reserve upgraded was km) sq (492.46 Sanctuary Wildlife of the northwest while the Kudremukh, to lies km) sq (88.4 Sanctuary Someshwara Often known as India’s cobra India’s as known Often Karnataka also has K arna t aka specialised g mallick anurg Bhadra to visit wildlife parks. wildlife visit to while found, time best the is April to migratoryOctober be can when species time good a is March to November birding, into aquatic evolved bird sanctuaries. For have that waterbodies large are Gudavi and Bengaluru river near the Kokrebellur of Ghataprabha. 28km of stretch a is Belgaum in Sanctuary Bird Ghataprabha habitats. in similar up set were sanctuaries bird 1940. in sanctuary bird a became it and birds for abode made insects aquatic of abundance the and islets isolated the the The Cauvery. along islets two of site advocated the at sanctuary a of Ali establishment Dr ornithologist Salim Mysuru, of and offers also species. hornbill 4 of sightings domestic It birds. for migratory haven a is Karnataka climate, favourable Kabini. in or Reserve Tiger Anshi-Dandeli be in can spotted but panther majestic black The elusive 2018. of as is home to around 2,500 to leopards up bear.sloth set Karnataka the protect Karnataka North in near Hampi is the only sanctuary wolf, while the of protection the for (45.82 sq km) was set up primarily management. cobra and ecology behavioral ecology, rainforest olwn ti pten other pattern, this Following birds the of survey his During and greenery lush its With Melukote Wildlife Sanctuary a favourite a Ranganathittu aoi er Sanctuary Bear Daroji ■

49, 2ndFloor, 560001 Bhavan, Course Khanija Race Road, Bengaluru, Karnataka Phone: 080-22352828, Mail:[email protected], Department of Department Tourism, Government ofKarnataka Experience wildlife Website:http://www.karnatakatourism.org TOURISMKARNATAKA

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Department of Tourism, Government of Karnataka 49, 2nd Floor, Khanija Bhavan, Race Course Road, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560001 Phone: 080-2235 2828, Mail:[email protected], Website:http://www.karnatakatourism.org South Karnataka Culture, architecture, and the wilderness in your backyard – that’s what great holidays are made of south Karnataka Route Planner

68 Karnataka Karnataka 69 south Karnataka Bengaluru

fast facts When to go The city has great climate all year round. Catch local festivals like Bangalore Karaga at Dharmaraya Temple in March-April, Ramzan on Mosque Road, St. Mary’s Feast in Shivajinagar on Sept 8 and Kadalekayi Parshe near Bull Temple in Nov-Dec. Tourism Offices ● Department of Tourism (HO) Government of Karnataka No. 49, 2nd Floor, Khanija Bhavan Race Course Road, Bengaluru Tel: 080-22352525/ 2727/ 2828 Cell: 09686633491, 07795516979 (DTC) ● Office of the Deputy Director (Urban) District Panchayath Bldg, KG Road Aerial view of Vidhana Soudha and High Court (foreground) buildings beans.’ Pleased, he settled a village Tel: 22204415 at that spot and called it Benda-kal- Cell: 09686633491 uru (Village of Boiled Beans). ● Office of the Asst Director (Rural) BENGALURU Kempegowda, a feudatory of the DC Office Complex, 213, Chapparkalu Where religion meets science Vijayanagara kings, formally Dheer Sandra, Devanhalli founded the city in 1537 and shifted Cell: 09591778824 (DTC) ■ anurag mallick And HAL and ADA are all based here; his capital from Yelahanka as this ● Karnataka Forest Department Priya Ganapathy ‘Silicon Valley of India’ after the place had several large water bodies Aranya Bhavan, 18th Cross, software boom; India’s original ‘Pub and natural defences of the Malleshwaram erhaps no other Indian city City’ and ‘Microbrewery Capital’; Savanadurga range to the east and Tel: 080-2334 3770 has as many epithets as and now also the ‘Expat Capital’, Nandi Hills to the north. W aranya.gov.in PKarnataka’s capital Bengaluru being home to about a tenth of Kempegowda built a town enclosed ● Karnataka State Tourism — India’s fifth largest and fastest India’s expatriates. by a mud fort and named it Development Corporation HO growing metropolis has been called Its folkloric origins speak of how Bengaluru, after his mother’s village. Central Reservation-Accommodation ‘Pensioners’ Paradise’ for its easy Hoysala king Veera Ballala got He divided the walled city into petes Ground Floor, BMTC Yeshwantpur retired life; ‘Air-conditioned City’ separated from his hunting party. to house people of various vocations. TTMC (Bus Stand), Yestwantpur Circle for its pleasant cool climate; ‘Garden Tired and hungry, he encountered Kempegowda’s son Kempegowda II, Tel: 43344334 City’ due to its parks and canopied an old woman in the forest who fed who succeeded him in 1585, marked Cell: 08970650070/ 75 lanes; ‘Aerospace Capital’ as ISRO, him a dish of benda kal or ‘boiled the boundaries of his capital by

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Photographs by anurag mallick letting four oxen walk in four cardinal directions; the place where they stopped, he erected four watchtowers (now well within the city). He beautified the town with getting there lakes, temples, and irrigation tanks Air Kempegowda International Airport around residential areas. As the city Bengaluru, Devanahalli (36km/1 hr; Toll- prospered, neighbouring powers free tel: 1800 425 4425; KSTDC vied for control and in 1638, the Counter cell: 08970650072; Adil Shahis of Bijapur conquered W bengaluruairport.com) is well- Bengaluru and handed it to Shahji, connected to all major Indian airports Shivaji’s father. In 1686, Mughal and several in Asia and Europe. Pre- emperor Aurangzeb captured paid cabs (Karnataka City Taxi Tel: 080- Bengaluru and, in 1689, the Mughal 41552222, 41553333; Mega Cabs Tel: subedar of Sira province leased 4747474) charge `800+toll to MG Road Bengaluru to Chikka Devaraja in the city centre. BMTC’s Airport Shuttle Wodeyar of Mysore, who Service (Vayu Vajra; Toll-free tel: 1800- strengthened the fort and built the 425-1663), with air-conditioned Volvo Kote Venkataramana Swamy Temple. buses services the airport-city route Under guidance of the Maharaja of Rail The three major stations, City Mysore, German botanist and Interiors of Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace Railway Station, Yeshwanthpur, and landscapist Gustav Hermann Cantonment, are connected to Delhi, Krumbiegel planted tecomas, born with British nightlife. son Tipu Sultan, the fort had a Mumbai, Chennai, Hyderabad, and tabebuias, cassias, jacarandas, and A century after the British made unique oval shape with eight many other cities by daily trains rain trees, each flowering sequentially this their cantonment, Karnataka’s doorways. Only parts of the fort wall Road Bengaluru is connected by NH4 through the seasons. Army new leaders chose from Greco- and the Delhi Gate with its intricate to Chennai, by NH7 to Hyderabad, by commander Hyder Ali, who later Roman, Indo-Saracenic and Persian friezes remain, besides a NH48 to Mangalore, and NH209 to became ruler, added to the tag of Dravidian styles for the new public Ganesha Temple in the quadrangle. Coimbatore. SH17 connects Bengaluru ‘Garden City’ by laying out a 140- buildings. Today, most of these Situated within the old fort walls, with Mysore, which is a 3-hr drive. acre park called ‘Lal Bagh’, named heritage structures like Mayo Hall, Tipu’s Summer Palace stands in a KSTDC runs Karnataka Taxis (Tel: 080- after its profusion of red roses. Oriental Building, State Bank of well-maintained garden next to 44664466) across the state. State The colonial era began in 1808, India, BRV Theatre, The Bible Society Ventakaramana Temple. Its buses run from here and from when the Mysore Maharaja leased stand alongside gleaming glass-and- construction began under Hyder Ali Shantinagar Bus Stand (Cell: land in present-day Ulsoor to the chrome high-rises, giving the city its in 1781 and was completed by Tipu 07760990531) and Satellite Bus Stand British who made Bengaluru unique mix of old and new. in 1791. Built out of teak in Indo- (Cell: 07760990530) on the Bengaluru- (anglicised to Bangalore) a Islamic style, the two-storey wooden Mysore Highway throughout Karnataka cantonment, moving their troops THINGS TO SEE AND DO structure is similar to Daria Daulat and to neighbouring states. Types of stationed at Srirangapatna. A large Bagh at Srirangapatna. buses include luxury sleeper Volvos and parade ground came up in the heart Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace u Palace entry fee Indians `25, deluxe Rajahamsa Executive. Tickets of town (today’s MG Road) along and Fort Foreigners `300, Children below 15 for private buses can be booked with churches, barracks, bungalows, Originally a mud fort built by free, Video Camera `25 Timings through Red Bus ( W redbus.in) tree-lined avenues, and rambling Kempegowda in 1537 and later 8.30am-5.30pm parks. The famed ‘pub culture’ was reconstructed by Hyder Ali and his u Fort Timings 8am-5.30pm

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Bangalore Palace gifted to the Maharaja of Mysore by Modelled on the Windsor Castle and King Alfonso XIII of Spain, who sporting Tudor architecture, stayed at Bangalore Palace during his Bangalore Palace is a gem that seems exile in the 1930s. right out of a fairytale — with u Entry fee Indians `240, Foreigners fortified towers, circular turrets and `480 Camera Cell phone `300, Still beautiful manicured gardens. Set in `710, Video `1,480 the spacious Palace Grounds that has witnessed many rock concerts, Lalbagh weddings, exhibitions and rallies, Spread over 240 acres and inspired the palace is accessible from the rear by the Mughal gardens of Sira, Vasanth Nagar entrance. Pick up the Lalbagh is home to India’s largest excellent audio guide (voiceover in collection of rare tropical and English by actor Roshan Seth) from subtropical plants and trees from the office as you navigate through Europe, Afghanistan, and Persia. The the armoury, durbar hall, chambers neo-classical Glass House, modelled and tiled hallways with photos of on London’s Crystal Palace, is the royalty and the kheddah (elephant centre of attraction. The brainchild capture by chasing them) operations, of John Cameron, the superintendent besides Mysore Ganjifa cards. In an of the gardens, this structure was inner courtyard is a royal bench built in 1888 to mark the visit of Bangalore Palace is modelled on the Windsor Castle of Britain

Devotees visiting the Lalbagh Kempegowda Tower Prince Albert Victor, heir to the Car `50 (no vehicles can go inside) Prince of Wales. Constructed with Eco-Vehicle Ride Adult `100 (1 hr) steel and glass manufactured in Children below 12 free, above 12 `20 Glasgow, the Glass House once (9am-6pm) Tel: 080-26571925 sheltered plants imported from Europe. Over the years it fell into a Bull Temple/Dodda Ganapati state of disrepair, until it was Temple renovated in 2003, using laminated Lending its name to one of the oldest glass. It is the venue of the bi-annual residential localities in Bengaluru is flower show. Explore the park’s other basavana gudi, literally ‘Bull Temple’, standouts: Band Stand, floral clock, one of the city’s top landmarks. Built one of the four watchtowers erected during the reign of Kempegowda I, by Kempegowda, a 300-year-old silk this monolithic idol of black stone is cotton tree, rose garden, topiary, the site of the annual groundnut fair lake, bonsai garden, and Maharaja Kadalekayi Parshe in November- statue. Another historic feature is the December. A few steps lead to the rocky outcrop of peninsular gneiss, a adjacent shrine of Dodda Ganesha, national geological monument. It is also known as ‘Satya Ganapati’ or among the oldest rocks on earth ‘Shakti Ganapati’. Kempegowda is dating back to 3,000 million years! believed to have chanced upon an u Entry fee `25 Parking Bike `20, etching of Ganesha on a rock near

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Courtesy wikipedia the Bull Temple, which his sculptors travelogues of 1792, this temple’s carved into an 18ft high sculpture. unique feature is that on Makar u Timings 6am-12 noon, Sankranti (January 14), the sunrays 5.30pm-8.30pm pass through a window and fall directly on the Shiva linga. Gavi Gangadhareshwara Temple Located in the nook of a small hill KR Market called Harirayanagudda in The atmospheric Krishna Rajendra Basavanagudi, the ancient cave Market or City Market is one of the temple dates back a thousand years biggest flower markets in all of Asia. and was expanded by the city’s Originally a water tank and then an founder Kempegowda I. The tall 18th century battlefield during the suryapana or monolithic pillars Anglo-Mysore Wars, the Krishna bearing motifs of moon and sun, Rajendra Market was established in Shiva’s trident, damaru (drum) and 1928 and named after the Maharaja Bangalore Karaga stone parasol (umbrella) were etched of Mysore. Only two buildings from This ancient festival is an important feature of the karaga carrier has never stumbled in the in his time. Dedicated to the celestial the British era remain today, while a Bengaluru’s religious calendar. The origin of history of the festival. couple Shiva-Parvati, the deities are modern building between them the nine-day Karaga festival (March-April) The procession meanders through the set inside a gavi (cave), hence the houses flowers and vegetables on the goes back more than five centuries. It city area, stopping to give blessings at the name. Mentioned in British lower floor, dry goods on the next celebrates the chief deity of the Thigala veerakumaras’ homes and temples in the community, goddess Draupadi, who is said to vicinity. The procession also halts at the The Gavi Gangadhareshwara Temple is often visited by devotees embody the ideal woman. dargah of Hazrat Tawakkal Mastan, the 18th The festival, which involves all faiths, gets century Muslim saint, a proof of the secular its name from the earthen pot from which the nature of this festival. Legend has it that on goddess is invoked. The karaga is made from hearing the approach of the karaga, the saint the sediments of a saltwater pond at ran towards it, but fell and was grievously Sampangi Tank. It is installed in the injured. The Hindus applied kumkum to his Dharmaraya Swamy Temple near City wounds, which miraculously healed. Hazrat Market, where it is sanctified and worshipped Mastan prayed to Draupadi that after his for the duration of the festival. On Chaitra demise, the karaga stop at his tomb, a Poornima (full moon day of Chaitra month), tradition that continues to this day. As dawn the last day of the festival, the karaga is breaks, the procession returns to the temple, carried in a procession that begins at midnight devotees splash turmeric water on each and continues till the morning. Carrying the other and two chosen ones remain at the karaga requires great skill, stamina, and temple to drink a sacrificial lamb’s blood. The concentration, and the bearer prepares karaga is returned to the saltwater pond and through rigorous fasting and penance. Sword- the bearer of the pot breaks his fast. The carrying veerakumaras from the Thigala karaga carrier is said to assume the form of community accompany and escort the karaga goddess Draupadi and dresses in feminine carrier on his journey. They have the licence attire, wearing his wife’s bangles and to kill: they may execute the karaga carrier if mangalsutra, while his wife takes on the role he stumbles and drops the pot! Fortunately, of a widow till her husband returns.

76 Karnataka Karnataka 77 south Karnataka Bengaluru floor, and machines, tools and including Queen Victoria’s statue accessories on the upper floor. opposite MG Road, King Edward VII’s statue near Minsk Square, and Cubbon Park the Chamarajendra Wodeyar statue. Spread over 300 acres in Bengaluru’s Notable buildings here are Attara central district opposite the Kacheri (literally ‘18 offices’; once Chinnaswamy Cricket Stadium lies housing the offices of the secretariat, the city’s beloved lung space, Cubbon it is now occupied by the High Park. Originally created in 1870 by Court) and Seshadri Iyer Hall or Sir John Meade and named Meade’s Central Library. Park after the acting commissioner of Mysore, it was finally named in Government Museum honour of the longest-serving Located at the edge of Cubbon Park, commissioner, Lt Gen Sir Mark this is the second oldest archaeological Cubbon. Integrating rocky outcrops museum in South India. Established with thickets of trees and bamboo, in 1865 on Museum Road by noted grassy expanses, flowerbeds and Orientalist and surgeon Edward fountains, the park has multiple Green Balfour, the museum shifted accesses. Traffic is closed at 5am-8am. here to a larger space in 1877. The Cubbon Park has several historical new building was in Palladian buildings, statues, and monuments, European Classical style with Corinthian columns, floral motifs, A bust of M Visvesvaraya fluted pillars and arches decorated with heads of Greek gods. It was The brick-red Government Museum was established in 1865 designed by Lt General Sir Richard Hieram Sankey, Chief Engineer of Visvesvaraya Industrial & Science Show, 3D show, and Wright Mysore. The museum has galleries Technological Museum (VITM) Brothers Flight Simulator. dedicated to Sculpture, Paintings and The museum was started in 1965 and u Entry fee `75 Timings 10am-6pm Antiquity with vira kallu (hero stones named after noted civil engineer, Closed on festivals like Ganesh or memorials), inscriptions, coins, Diwan of Mysore and Bharat Ratna Chaturthi & Deepavali musical instruments and treasures M Visvesvaraya, whose black marble like the 450 AD Halmidi inscription, bust graces the ground floor in front Vidhana Soudha the oldest example of the Kannada of the Engine Hall. In the front Built in 1956, the legislative assembly text; the Begur inscription that first garden are specimens of a portable of Karnataka, the Vidhana Soudha mentions ‘Bengaluru’; a model of steam engine, an indigenous HF-24 houses the offices of the state Tipu’s 18th century Srirangapatna Marut aircraft, and an Archimedes secretariat and is the largest of its fort; and some cannons. The entry Screw conceived by the Greek kind in the country. Covering an ticket gives you access to the small inventor. There are different galleries area of 50,000 sq m, this stone Venkatappa Art Gallery which is dedicated to How Things Work, Fun building is a fusion of several located next door. Science, Electro Technic, Space, architectural styles — Dravidian, u Entry fee Adult `20, Child `10 Biotechnology, BEL, Science for Kids, Rajasthani, Chola, and Kannada. Timings 10am-5pm, Tuesday-Sunday and Dinosaur Alive, with shows like Fashioned out of locally quarried (Monday closed) Science on a Sphere, Taramandal, granite, the Vidhana Soudha is

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by Foot (Tel 080-41203095, 07019272365 W Bangalore Darshini bengalurubyfoot.com) organises Food Walks, BMTC runs sightseeing bus tours from Bangalore ‘Pete’ walks, the Tipu Sultan tour Kempegowda Bus Station, Majestic. For just or exploring the old quarters of Malleshwaram `400, enjoy a full-day city tour in an AC bus and Basavanagudi. INTACH (Tel: 080- that starts at 8.30am and covers more than a 42064839 W intachbir.org) does ‘Parichay’ dozen popular sights: ISKCON temple, Tipu’s heritage walks once a month. There is a Summer Palace, Gavi Gangadhareshwara Fraser Town Food Walk by Unhurried ( W cave temple, Bull Temple, Lalbagh, etc. For unhurried.in), Jaunty Roads (Cell: 35 years, Deenadayalu has been with 09945694161) in the MG Road area, and KSRTC and serves as an entertaining tour Aliyeh Rizvi of Native Place does an old city guide. He speaks many tongues and sings walk during the annual karaga. Veera Ballala’s legend of ‘boiled beans’ in Kannada, Tamil and Telugu for passengers. Wine & Craft Beer Tours Tel: +91 9972464148, +91 7022030257 A fairly recent but growing phenomenon, W mybmtc.com wine and craft beer tours are a great way to discover the city’s love for high spirits and Bangalore Heritage Walks appreciate the nuances of wine-tasting with Explore the city on foot with Arun Pai’s visits to nearby vineyards and wineries. The Bangalore Walks ( W bangalorewalks.com), Kadu Vinery Tour (Tel: 080-26602666, Cell: from Military Heritage Walk to Victorian 09148551404; `400pp, transportation not The legislative assembly, Vidhana Soudha, is a fusion of architectural styles Bangalore Walk and Cubbon Park Walk to included) is a good day trip to their vineyard Green Heritage Walk in Lalbagh. Bengaluru in Ramnagara, 70km from Bengaluru city; the decorated with frieze panels, Chowdiah Memorial Hall 1-hour tour around the winery is followed by ornamental motifs, floral carvings, Dedicated to Karnataka’s celebrated Paintings within Tipu Sultan’s Palace 6 types of wine-tasting and an a la carte and geometric designs. Renowned violinist T Chowdiah, the hall is a lunch (chargeable extra). There is Kinvah sculptor Shilpi Shamachar crowned popular venue for cultural events. Wine Tours (Cell: 09379907300, the dome with India’s lion emblem. Built by architect SN Murthy, the 09620424002; `1,500pp with lunch in A twin structure, the Vikasa Soudha, structure is built in the shape of a Yelahanka and a 3-hour tour around Nandi finished in 2005, stands alongside. violin. Rebuilt several times due to Valley Winery with wine-tasting, grapes its complexity, opened in 1980, it is stomping, lunch). If you love beer, take a St Mark’s Cathedral an exact replica, down to the strings, Microbrewery Tour at Windmills Craftworks Built for the British army, the keys, bridge and even the bow! (`1,000pp) to see how craft beer is made; construction of this church was also involves tasting of beer. Toit Brewery started in 1808 and later additions Jumma Masjid Tours (Cell: 09019713388; W toit.in; `850pp were made in 1901. Following an Located in Bengaluru’s Cantonment +taxes, includes beer samples, food pairing) unfortunate roof collapse and fire, area, the Jumma Masjid or ‘Friday are organised for groups of up to 20 on the the church was given a facelift in Mosque’ is an elegant brick structure first Saturday of the month, besides tours for 1927. Today, the beautifully restored with gleaming granite pillars, private groups. Brew Tours at Geist (Cell: church is set in a picturesque garden. intricate jaali work and ornate stucco 09886442369) take place on one Saturday a A High Renaissance structure, it has floral motifs on its façade. Built in month (price on request). Tip Kadu Vinery been modelled after St Paul’s the early 19th century, entirely out has grape-crushing on Sat/Sun at `500pp Cathedral and other 17th-century of razed material from Tipu’s Palace and 1 hr guided tour with wine-tasting. churches in England. in Srirangapatna, the mosque was prashant panjiar

80 Karnataka Karnataka 81 south Karnataka Bengaluru damaged by cannon fire and the first Sunday in January are good renovated in 1836. platforms to buy various types of art from local artists. Karnataka Chitrakala Parishath u No. 1, Art Complex, Kumara Krupa Established in 1960, KCP is the state’s Road Tel 080-2226 1816 premier visual arts institution W karnatakachitrakalaparishath.com offering courses in painting, Adults `10 (Children below 5 years sculpture, graphic art, applied art, art have free entry) history, traditional Mysore paintings and leather puppetry, besides master’s ISKCON Temple degrees and doctoral studies. The Art Perched atop a monolithic hillock in Complex hosts regular hobby classes, Rajajinagar, the grand temple workshops, demos, artist camps, complex of ISKCON (International dance performances, folk theatre, Society for Krishna Consciousness) is photography exhibitions, puppet spread over 7 acres. Constructed to shows and music recitals all year commemorate the birth centenary of round. The museum has 13 its founder Sri Prabhupada, the Sri permanent galleries on eminent Radha Krishna Temple is an unusual artists like Nicholas Roerich and HH blend of Dravidian and modern Kejriwal, and Folk Art, International temple architecture. Ornamental Paintings, Mysore Traditional Gallery arches and illuminated cascades of The ISKCON temple in all its glory and Leather Puppets. The Art Mart water lead to the elaborate and the annual Chitra Sante held on rajagopuram. The gold-plated offered during rahu kala, otherwise was more wilderness than city at the kalashas, gold chandeliers shaped considered inauspicious by Hindus. time. Renovated in 1889, recent Steps leading up to the campus like inverted lotus flowers, intricate The festive fervour is best captured additions to its façade are idols of woodwork and beautiful paintings of during the birthday of Banashankari Ardhanareeshwara, Shiva-Parvati, Lord Krishna adorning the lofty Devi on September 13; Dasara and Ganesha, an Anjaneya temple, ceiling are noteworthy. The high- celebrations in October; and the the Basavatheertha Kalyani, and the tech temple complex has a Vedic temple’s anniversary in December- Narasimha temple. museum, an open theatre for January. The temple also lights up on uTimings 7am-12 noon, concerts, a massive 10,000 sq ft hall Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays when 6.30pm-9pm and landscaped gardens. Don’t go devotees offer hundreds of lamps to without tasting the prasad, handed the holy goddess. Someshwara Temple out by a temple functionary as you u Timings 6am-12.30pm,4.30pm- Built by Chola kings, this magnificent exit the temple. 8.30pm Shiva temple in Ulsoor displays a fusion of Chola, Hoysala, and Banashankari Temple Kadu Malleswara Temple Vijayanagara styles. The compound Located on Kanakapura Road, it was The 350-year-old Kadu Malleswara was constructed later by Kempegowda. an ardent devotee, Somana Shetty, Temple lends its name to the bustling The lofty rajagopuram (main temple who brought the idol of Banashankari neighbourhood of Malleswaram. tower) and the dhwaja sthambha (flag from Badami to Bengaluru and built Built around a swayambhu or self- pole) are noteworthy while the main the temple in 1915. In a unique manifest Shiva linga, it earned the shrine has elaborately carved pillars departure from the norm, prayers are prefix of kadu or ‘jungle’, as Bengaluru and ancient inscriptions on the walls. Courtesy wikipedia

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shutterstock Some of the pillars resonate with stone. Witnessing the incident, the musical notes when struck. divine trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva wished to establish themselves Shiva Temple at the spot and transformed into Located on Old Airport Road, the three stone pillars that can still be open-air shrine has a 65-ft statue of found here. Spread over 5 acres, the Lord Shiva in lotus pose with the hilltop temple was built in 1969. river Ganga flowing out of his matted Hanuman Jayanti is celebrated in a locks. Devotees toss coins in the grand manner over 12 days with wishing pool and undertake a pujas, abhishekas (anointment) and simulated Amarnath yatra, around a distribution of mahaprasad. cement cave with replicas of the 12 u 9th Block, Jayanagar jyotirlingas. It is a popular spot on Tel 080-26580500, 26594255 Shivaratri (Feb-Mar) when chants of W ragigudda.org ‘Om Namah Shivaya’ resound u Timings 8am-11:30 am, 5pm-8:30 through the air. pm, Mahamangalarti 11 am, 8 pm u Timings: 10 am to 8 pm Ulsoor Gurudwara Ragigudda Sri Prasanna Opposite the picturesque Ulsoor Lake Anjaneyaswamy Temple and its Kempegowda watchtower Interiors of St Mary’s Basilica The Hanuman temple in Jayanagar is stands the main Sikh centre of believed to have miraculously worship in Bangalore. Built in 1946, of moulded bunches of grapes and religious faiths. originated from a big ‘heap of finger it is a simple white structure with artistic stained-glass windows from u Tel 080-2530 1206 millet’ (ragi gudda) that became a pristine marble floors. Special prayers Paris. The patron saint of this Timings 5:30 am to 12 noon, 4 pm are offered on Sunday, after which legendary church is said to exercise to 8.30 pm, Thu open till midnight The hilltop temple was built in 1969 langar (free meal) is served to all. miraculous powers. The annual St W infantjesusshrine.org. Guru Nanak’s Birthday in Oct-Nov is Mary’s Feast is held across eight days celebrated on a large scale. The in September and draws thousands Cultureama: Art, Craft, Music, gurdwara also offers accommodation of believers from different faiths, Dance, and Theatre to tourists for a day. who come to pray dressed in For those who appreciate music and u Sri Guru Singh Sabha customary orange. the arts, there are several venues Opp Ulsoor Lake, Kensington Road u Shivajinagar, Opposite Russell hosting regular events and festivals. Tel 080-25553461 Market The city has several art galleries like u Timings 4 am to 9:30 pm Tel 080-22865434 the National Gallery of Modern Art, u Timings 5 am to 7:30 pm Peepletree Art Gallery, Venkatappa St Mary’s Basilica Art Gallery, Crimson Art Gallery, Built as a small chapel in 1818 by Infant Jesus Shrine Gallery Sumukha, Sublime, and Abbé Dubois, the church was Established in 1979 by Rev Dr Rangoli Metro Art Centre. The transformed into a grand edifice in Lourduswamy, then Archbishop of Karnataka Chitrakala Parishath near 1874 by Rev LF Kleiner. The Gothic Bangalore, the church in Viveknagar the Golf Course is another pioneering architecture interiors of the church sees huge crowds on Thursday, the institution promoting art with reveal stately arches vaulting towards day dedicated to Infant Jesus. The regular craft and textile exhibitions the ceiling, rich Corinthian capitals church draws devotees from all and the much-awaited annual event shutterstock

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Chitra Santhe showcasing local HAL Heritage Centre and artists. Rock shows, jazz concerts, Aerospace Museum Carnatic and Hindustani classical It is quite natural that the country’s recitals take place at various venues first aerospace museum ought to be across the city. Hard Rock Café, The in India’s ‘Aerospace Capital.’ Located Humming Tree, The B-Flat Bar, on the premises of Hindustan Windmills Craftworks, Social, Aeronautics Limited (HAL), the Bangalore Gayana Samaja, The Blue museum showcases the evolution of Room, Max Mueller Bhavan, Alliance India’s aviation industry and Francaise de Bangalore, Chowdiah aerospace achievements over six Memorial Hall, besides the Bangalore decades through various aircraft Palace Grounds, have been regular models and a Wall of Fame photo venues for music shows. gallery. There are flight simulator Regular productions by various games, a mock air-traffic control different theatre groups and annual tower and a small theatre with hourly theatre festivals always keep the audio-visual shows. A number of crowds milling in to spaces like planes and choppers developed by Ranga Shankara, Jagriti Theatre, HAL are lined up in hangars outside Chowdiah Memorial Hall, Ravindra — from jet trainer Ajeet to Advanced HAL museum is India’s first aesrospace museum Kalakshetra, Gubbi Veeranna Light Helicopter Dhruv and a mock Rangamandira, Atta Galatta JN Tata up of Tejas, India’s indigenous Light Eng) and ‘Stars’ (4:30 pm Eng) daily famous painter’s work and art Auditorium, and Nrityagram. Combat Aircraft. There’s a small with ‘Dawn of Space Age’, an materials. The exhibits include 20th cafeteria, an Aero Modelling Club for additional show only on Sundays century landscapes, plaster-of-Paris Exibit at Jawaharlal Nehru Planetarium children above 12 years and a (10:30 am Eng). Another highlight is works and abstract wood sculptures, reference library with a collection of a short news capsule on events besides other renowned artists. aviation books and magazines. A concerning astronomy, like the Contemporary art shows are often must-visit for aviation buffs! launch of indigenous satellites. The held here where artists showcase u NHAL Airport, Varthur Road planetarium houses a permanent their works. Tel 080-2522 8341 exhibition on space and astronomy, u Kasturba Road W hal-india.com/heritage.asp and holds science exhibitions for Tel 080-2286 4483/3737 u Timings 9 am to 5 pm school children. u Timings 10 am to 5 pm Monday Entry Adults `50, Children `30 Still u Chowdiah Road, High Grounds Holiday camera `50, Video Camera `75 Tel 080-2220 3234, 2226 6084 Adults `20, Children below 10 years Flight Simulator Games Basic `50, W taralaya.org are charged `10 Motion `100/head for 10 min u Timings 10 am to 5:30 pm Holiday Monday & second Tuesday Indian Music Experience Centre Jawaharlal Nehru Planetarium Entry Adults `50, Children `30 India’s first Interactive Music Set up in 1989 and renovated in Museum, it has 9 internationally 2016, the biggest attraction of the Venkatappa Art Gallery designed exhibit galleries showcasing planetarium is the sky dome that Built by the state government in 108 musical instruments. The screens regular shows pertaining to memory of K Venkatappa who fascinating hands-on museum allows the galaxy in Kannada and English. painted the Mysore Palace Durbar visitors to create their own music Catch ‘Our Solar System’ (12:30 pm Hall, the art gallery houses the and has an interesting Sound Garden. Courtesy museums of india

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The Learning Centre imparts music Palace Road classes from experts with regular Tel 080 22342338 workshops and free movie W ngmaindia.gov.in screenings. u Entry Indians `20, Foreigners `500, u Brigade Millennium Avenue, Opp Students upto 18 years free Wood Rose Club, JP Nagar 7th Phase Timings: 11 am – 6.30 pm, Monday Tel 08040908054 is closed W indianmusicexperience.org u Entry Adult `250, Children 5-12 Shopping years/Senior Citizens `150 Timings: 10 am – 6 pm, Open on all Bengaluru has a slew of top malls like public holidays, Monday closed Orion, Garuda, Gopalan, Meenakshi, and Mantri Square Mall, besides National Gallery of Modern Art high-end brands on offer at UB City. Inaugurated in 2009, the NGMA Buy a wide range of Karnataka showcases modern and contemporary handicrafts like statues, sandalwood art by renowned Indian painters like carvings, inlay work and Bidriware Raja Ravi Varma, Jamini Roy, Amrita from Cauvery Emporium on MG Shergil and Rabindranath Tagore. Road or Cottage Industries Emporium. Nearly 500 exhibits are spread For saris, head to Mysore Silk Udyog Luxury hotels are in abundant in Bengaluru, but budget accommodation is plentiful thematically in halls, rooms and in Commercial Street. The Quad, a corridors across two floors. new F&B and shopping complex Indian, Continental and local Where to Stay u NGMA, Manikyavelu Mansion, outside the international airport has cuisine, try Koshy’s Parade Café on some stores for last-minute buys and St. Mark’s Road, a colonial-era relic From budget to boutique and upscale The British brought pub culture here street shopping as well. from 1952. For South Indian fare like luxury, Bengaluru offers a wide idli, dosas, vada and uppitu, head to choice. A charming heritage hotel Where to Eat CTR Shri Sagar in Malleswaram or founded in 1887, Taj West End (Tel: Vidyarthi Bhavan on Gandhi Bazaar 080-66605660; Tariff: 18,560- Bengaluru is a thriving gastronomic Main Road. For Andhra meals on 3,20,000 +breakfast) is set amidst capital. From Nikkei cuisine at IQI to banana leaf and biryani, there’s leafy environs, opposite the Bangalore pan-Asian at Fatty Bao and Sriracha Bheema’s on Church Street and Turf Club, with 116 rooms, full to Gowda cuisine at Bengaluru Oota Nagarjuna Restaurant on Residency service spa, pools and restaurants Company, the Bengaluru palate is Road or Indiranagar Double Road. Masala Klub, Mynt, and Blue Ginger. unbelievably eclectic and For Kerala cuisine, there’s Coconut The Leela Palace (Tel: 25211234 experimental. Award-winning Oota Grove on Church Street, Bekal or Tariff: 13,375-2,67,500 +breakfast) Bangalore above Windmills Thalassery while for Chettinad on Old Airport Road is a majestic Craftworks in Whitefield brings cuisine, try Annachi and Anjappar. modern palace hotel offering 357 authentic regional flavours from When you’re in Bengaluru, don’t rooms, dedicated butler and access to across Karnataka, paired with quirky miss the local donne biryani, typically Royal Club Lounge for the suites. local cocktails like ‘Varathur served in sal leaf containers or Occupying a green corner of MG Overflow’. Yet, the old traditional ‘donne’. Also check out the Dindigul Road, the city’s prime shopping and and iconic joints are still very legend Thalapakatti biryani, now entertainment quarter near Ulsoor popular. For a mix of Kerala, Anglo- open in Bengaluru on 100 Ft Road. Lake, The Oberoi Bengaluru (Tel:

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Ankur Bhalla 25585858; Tariff: 12,500-1,25,000 Marriott overlooking the Turf Club +breakfast) has 160 rooms with with spiffy rooms and suites, cool efficient service, specially curated restaurants, a café and chic equestrian private dining, cultural experiences themed bar. City specialists called and relaxing spa treatment for guests. Navigators offer guests exclusive Overlooking the Bangalore Golf local experiences across the city. In Course, ITC Windsor (Tel: 22269898; Whitefield, the Bengaluru Marriott Tariff: 12,000-2,00,000 +breakfast) Hotel (Tel: 49435000; Tariff: 8,700- boasts grand architecture, period 18,000 +breakfast) offers luxe furniture, art and an unmistakable amenities and facilities in its 391 colonial air. Choose from 240 rooms, plush rooms, ideal for business and sip sundowners at Dublin the bar or leisure travellers. St Mark’s Hotel indulge in a gastronomic journey at (Cell: 08040019000; Tariff: 7,495 + its award-winning restaurants. breakfast) is a 4-star hotel in the Sheraton Grand Bangalore (Tel: heart of Bangalore with around 96 42521000; 10,500-69,500 +breakfast) rooms, a restaurant, bar, and a at Brigade Gateway near the World rooftop event space. Trade Centre and Orion Mall, is at The Park Bangalore (Cell: walking distance from ISKCON 08025594666; Tariff: 6,000-11,000 Temple. It has 230 rooms and a host +breakfast) is one of the earliest of dining options. modern luxury boutique hotels here A big cat beats the heat in a rock pool at the Bannerghatta National Park Renaissance Bengaluru Race and has 109 rooms, gym and Aura Course Hotel (Tel: 08046855555 spa and the award-winning Italia for AROUNDS Bannerghatta National Park Tariff: 8950) is a classy hotel by Italian fare. The Elanza Hotel (Tel: (22km) 66604545; Tariff: 5,500-6,600) is on Begur (13km) Spread over 104 sq km, the park is A tastefully decorated restaurant Richmond Road and offers 43 rooms Once an important town under the home to several endangered species. with breakfast. Goldfinch Hotel (Tel Gangas and the Cholas, Begur is a Bannerghatta Biological Park, a small 080-41291300, 8904036489 Tariff: Bengaluru suburb off the Hosur area in the northern part of the 4500) just off Race Course Road is highway near Electronic City. Begur National Park, houses a 7.5-acre the flagship hotel of a boutique is significant because it has a butterfly park, reptile park, aviary chain with over 50 rooms and a few 1,100-year-old inscription, the oldest and zoo where visitors can get close popular restaurants Banjara, Kabab existing reference to a place called to animals like elephants, leopards, Studio and Sanadige, legendary for ‘Bengaluru’, referring to a war. Besides primates, hippopotamus, zebras, seafood and coastal fare. The Capitol a thousand-year-old circular fort wild boar, sloth bears, reptiles and (Tel: 2228123; Tariff: 4,000-12,000) (only the gateway and portions of birds. There are two rescue centres on Raj Bhavan Road has over 140 walls remain) and a lake, Begur has for lions and tigers, a small play area rooms, a restaurant, bar and pool the stunning temple complex of for children, a café and an area and other services. There are budget Panchaligeshwara with the where elephant rides are organised. hotels in the Majestic area around Nageshwar, Kamateshwar, You require permission to venture the main bus and railway stations. Nagareshwara, Choleshwar, and into the National Park, unless you’re Kameshwar Swamy shrines located staying at JLR’s Bannerghatta Nature For more, see Accommodation Listings in the town centre. Camp located within the herbivore on page 431-432 uTimings 7am-12 noon, 4.30-7pm section. Overnight visitors can

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prashant panjiar explore several trekking trails like the Empire, it was enlarged by the Dewan 1.5 km hike to Mirza Hill or the 3.5 of Mysore, Seshadri Iyer, thus km trail to Uddigebande. allowing Bengaluru access to tap u Safaris Jeep safari `3,500-3,500 water — back then, the water was (zoo+safari+butterfly park+camera; brown and used to be jocularly called AC bus safari Adult `500, Child `300; ‘Seshadri coffee’. While in Non-AC bus safari (zoo+safari) Adult Hesaraghatta, visit Nrityagram, the `280, Child `140, Foreigners `400 famous dance village set up by the Timings 9.30am-5pm, Safari late Odissi danseuse Protima Bedi. 10am-4.30pm (Tue closed) Camera Still `25, Video `200 Boating `60 pp Big Banyan Tree (27km) (30 mins) Timings 10am-4.30pm Nestling next to the sleepy little Contact Tel: 080-29776466; village of Ramohalli is one of nature’s W bannerghattabiologicalpark.org marvellous wonders. The dodda alada Hesaraghatta (25km) mara (literally ‘big banyan tree’ in Famed for the tranquil 1,600-acre Kannada) is believed to be nearly 400 lake and manmade reservoir, years old and its branches and roots Hesaraghatta is also one of the few are spread across 3-4 acres. surviving grassland ecosystems A class in progress at the Nrityagram dance gurukul at Hessaraghatta around Bengaluru, supporting several Devanahalli (35km) species of wintering migrant birds. Originally called Devanadoddi, tank. Ever since the movie was shot, Channapatna (61km) Originally created by Emperor Devanahalli, the site of Bengaluru’s the hillock became known as Sholay Channapatna is synonymous with Achyutha Raya of the Vijayanagara international airport, is also famous Gudda. Ramadevarabetta can be its trademark lacquerware toys that as the birthplace of Tipu Sultan. The reached via a turnoff just before have given this place international Entrance to the Channapatna Temple original mud fort was built in 1501 Ramanagaram town. recognition and acclaim. The by local chieftain Malla Byre Gowda industry came up during the rule of of Avathi, reconstructed in stone in Janapada Loka (52km) Tipu Sultan, who encouraged this late 18th century by Hyder Ali. Inside Right next to Kamat Lokaruchi, the craft. Kanva Dam, 13km from the fort are houses of Tipu Sultan, dramatic folk motif on the gate in Channapatna, offers a stunning view Hyder Ali, and Dewan Purnaiah, a brass relief, flanked by instruments of the local scenery, and is a favourite high-ranking official. About 150m announces Janapada Loka, a 15-acre with birdwatchers. southwest of the fort, in an orchard complex set up by late bureaucrat called Khas Bagh, is a memorial and folklorist HL Nage Gowda, who Shivaganga (58km) marking Tipu’s birth in 1751. also donated his vast personal As one drives along the Bengaluru- collection of folk artefacts. The Tumkur Road, the Shivaganga hill Ramanagram (47km) museum has a stunning collection, rises nearly 1,400m above the plains. Dotted by dramatic rocky hills and including a variety of agricultural, When viewed from a distance, the mountains, Ramanagaram served as hunting and fishing implements, outline of the hill resembles the the backdrop for the Bollywood weapons, household gadgets, figure of Nandi on the east, Ganesha blockbuster Sholay. The pivotal point traditional masks, dolls and shadow from the west, a cobra from the is Ramadevarabetta, a hillock outside puppets. By far the most impressive north, and a Shiva linga from the the town, with about 350 steps exhibit is an exquisitely carved south. This is a well-known leading to a Ram shrine and temple temple chariot. pilgrimage centre. Nearly 300 rough-

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prashant panjiar Kolar (65km) birds as ‘daughters of the village’. The first capital of the Ganga dynasty, With the help of the NGO Mysore Kolar has a rich history. Until not too Amateur Naturalists, a pen has been long ago, almost all the gold in India constructed to care for fledglings came from here. Its mines, located at falling from their nests. In turn, the an astonishing 10,000ft, were the bird droppings are a rich source of deepest active mines in the world. fertiliser for the villagers. When The town’s main attraction is its visiting, don’t approach the birds, or temples. The presiding deity of Kolar try to attract their attention. is the eight-armed goddess Durga, worshipped as Kolaramma. Such is Galibore Nature Camp (100km) the goddess’s power that her idol is At Galibore near Sangam, stay in not placed in the direct gaze of the tented cottages, have your meals at devotee but in a corner of the the Gol Ghar, and experience nature sanctum; visitors are allowed a at its best. Visit Bheemeshwari Windy climes at Nandi Hills, which has the famous Yoga Nandishwara Temple glimpse of her reflection in a mirror. Adventure and Nature Camp at The pit near the sub-shrine is believed Muthathi 14km away for a day of hewn stone steps lead to the summit, at 1,500m, it is quite cold even to be the habitat of scorpions. adventure. There’s no overnight stay with small temples on the way. during peak summer months and Overlooking this pit is the image of here, but the `2,950pp rate includes chilly in the winter months. The Kapala Bhairavi, the goddess of forest entry charges, lunch and Savanadurga (60km) invigorating weather, coupled with scorpions. It is said that, every year evening tea/coffee. A massive rocky hill jutting out of numerous trails, makes the place on the fifth lunar day of the fortnight u Contact Tel: 080-40554055, Cell: thick forests, Savanadurga towers popular with hikers, bikers and of Vishaka, a scorpion emerges from 09449599768/ 09449597885, e-mail: 1,207m with a circumference of others. Tipu Sultan is believed to the pit and stays near the deity [email protected] 14km at the base. The ruined hill fort have visited this cool and peaceful before disappearing. was the seat of the Magadi rulers and retreat often between battles and Mekedatu (110km) later Tipu Sultan’s retreat. The earliest strengthened the fort from these Kokkarebellur (87km) Literally ‘goat’s leap’, Mekedatu is a record of Savanadurga is from hills. Nandi Hills has a number of A nondescript village with no source scenic spot where the Kaveri river 1340CE by Hoysala ruler Ballala III, popular attractions like Tipu’s Drop, of fish for the birds to nest and mate, gushes through a deep and narrow when it was called Savandi. Though a 600m cliff where, according to Kokkarebellur has been the chosen gorge that’s barely 10m at its widest the summit seems contiguous, it legend, Tipu Sultan ordered haunt for spot-billed pelicans and point. The name is derived from an consists of two peaks: Karigudda condemned prisoners to be flung off painted storks for years. The winged incident where a local villager saw a (black peak) and Biligudda (white the precipice. Ironically, it is also the visitors (kokkare means ‘stork’) come goat leap across the gorge to escape a peak). Although there are no steps to best vantage point one can be at to from as far as Europe, Siberia, and tiger. The rocks are slippery and it’s climb, the local authorities have marvel at glorious sunsets on clear Australia and stay for 7-8 months a unsafe to swim — many have not devised a clever route, marked with days. The famous Yoga Nandishwara year, with The villagers treat the been as fortunate as the goat! ■ white arrows. Despite this, the climb Temple, which gives the hills their is still considered treacherous. name, is dedicated to Shiva and is believd to have been built by the Nandi Hills (61km) Cholas a long time ago. u Entry fee #Awesomekarnataka Rising dramatically and terrifyingly `20 Timings 6am-6pm Parking Car steep in places, Nandi Hills is both `150, Bike `30 Nandi Hills Tel: magical and awe-inspiring. Perched 09448636496 (Special Officer)

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Turn left to commune with a abode. Within, lies the lord on the beautiful river, whose melodious back of a snake, dark as the night sky movement you will carry in your with a benevolent smile. A visit to heart for a long time to come. his temple makes a refreshing change from the usual sobriety of prayer. THINGS TO SEE AND DO The Lakha Dweepotsava, when one lakh lamps are lit during Makar Srirangapatna is set within and around the ruins of Tipu Sultan’s fort, which encompasses most of what lies on the north bank. The fort, built during the Vijayanagara era, strengthened by the Wodeyars and then taken over by general Hyder Ali and his son Tipu, is considered to be the second-strongest in India. It cannot be viewed as a

Photographs by prashant panjiar single entity; rather your interaction Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple with it is a constant as you roam Wellesley Bridge over the Cauvery River between the sights, passing through its Bengaluru, Mysuru, Delhi, Water, SRIRANGAPATNA and Elephant gates. Every so often, THE BECKONING ISLE its walls will rear up in picturesque locales perfect for a photo-op, like ■ NANDINI SRINIVASAN Empire’. The lanes between the near the aged Wellesley Bridge. turfed outline of the Srirangapatna fast facts any tales of valour and Fort bear touching memorials to the Jama Masjid When to go Srirangapatna is pleasant glory are tucked into the life of this unique king. As you enter the town, the minarets all through the year, but November to Mfolds of the unassuming But if you’re not too keen on of the mosque beckon you. This April is the coolest season island town of Srirangapatna, former going ‘historical’ on a weekend and simple, graceful structure was built Tourist Offices capital of Mysuru. Maybe it’s due to need other diversions, Srirangapatna in 1787 by Tipu. The prayer hall has ● Office of the Deputy Director the guile of the beautiful Cauvery won’t let you down. The drive itself, a row of cusped arches and a ceiling Department of Tourism river that you tend to lap up every past the golden rocks on which the carved with grapevine designs. PES Engineering College Road anecdote the guide narrates. You blockbuster Hindi film Sholay was Mandya tend to believe that the legendary shot several decades ago and through Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple Tel: 08232-238377 (DD Office) sword of Tipu Sultan, housed within the paddy fields of Mandya, is The presiding deity of the holy isle of Cell: 09481155975 (DTC) the State Treasury, is sacred and no rewarding in itself. Srirangapatna elicits a very different STD code 08232 one dare touch it. It’s not too difficult to find your response from his devotees. There’s ● KSTDC Information Office If stones could speak, probably way around Srirangapatna. Cross something about the expression on Hotel Mayura Riverview Srirangapatna every tiny pebble on the banks of the river to enter the town, then Sri Ranganathaswamy’s face that’s Mysuru Road the Cauvery would make the English turn right for the abode of Lord very human. A long walk through Mandya go red with reminiscences of Tipu ’s Ranganathaswamy and the legend his dark, many-pillared temple leads Cell: 08970650004 victories over the ‘Unconquerable of Tipu Sultan. you past his divine peers and to his

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anurag mallick Sakranti on January 14/15, is a sight The Obelisk to behold. Outside the temple, an About 200m down from the dungeon ancient chariot awaits your is a monument that marks the place inspection, as do a dozen stalls where Tipu Sultan died, while trying selling kitschy keepsakes. Pick up to prevent a British soldier from sets of Tipu Sultan postcards: Tipu pulling out his legendary sword from beheading Britishers, Tipu killing a its scabbard. It is said his body lay tiger with his bare hands, etc. there for two days before the locals ◆ Timings 7am-1.30pm, 4pm-8.30pm noticed and recognised it. A com Puja timings 7.30am-9.30am, memorative obelisk, housed within a 6pm-6.45pm small enclosure into which you may not enter, marks the very spot where Captain Bailey’s Dungeon Tipu fell dead. You may take a photo A little further up the temple towards through the railings. the right is the place the British dreaded the most. On an elevated Dariya Daulat Bagh platform near the fort wall are the This wooden palace built by Tipu in dungeons where Tipu’s prisoners of 1784, set amidst manicured lawns, war were jailed. In the underground looks modest from the outside, and prison you can see hooks on the for the most part is hidden from Devotees near the holy idol walls to which the prisoners hands sight by green shades. But the wealth were chained. In the midst of the of paintings on the walls and the If you’ve carried lunch with you, wall says ‘from this the moon has chamber, there lies a well-preserved , intricacy of the interiors leave the the palace lawns are an ideal place borrowed its light’ and refers to it as ancient cannon. visitor enthralled. Also called the to idle around under trees which are the ‘House of Sleep’. Tipu’s favourite Summer Palace, Tipu used this as an full of great big bumblebee hives tiger stripes cover the walls. At the View of the Gumbaz, tomb of Tipu Sultan alternative resort to receive visitors and monkeys. The palace is on the Dariya Daulat Bagh, turn left and and conduct durbars. road to Ganjam and Sangama. continue along the Sangama Road There is a good collection of ◆Entry fee Indians `25, Foreigners till you reach a fork in the road. period furniture, coins, fabulous `300 Video camera `25 (in the Here, turn right towards the Gumbaz paintings, murals and plenty of garden only) Timings 9am-5pm and the Sangama. historical data of Hyder Ali and note Still cameras not allowed inside ◆ Timings 8am-6pm Tipu’s conquests in the museum the museum. Video cameras may be within the palace. used with permission from the Sangama The painting of Lord Cornwallis Director General, Archaeological The Sangama, 3km south of the receiving the sons of Tipu Sultan as Survey of India, New Delhi town centre, is where the two hostages by Robert Home touches branches of the river Cauvery reunite the chords of your heart. One of the Gumbaz in joyful exuberance. A pilgrim’s most impressive items on display is ‘Tiger of Mysuru’ Tipu Sultan, his chamber lies in ruins just before the a world-famous portrait of Tipu by father Hyder Ali, his mother, sons steps that lead down the small ghat the great German neoclassical and other members of the royal to the water. The tiniest of shrines painter Johann Zoffany. Probably family lie buried in this splendid marks the spot where the waters the closest likeness you’ll ever see of monument called Gumbaz. The meet. The river is full of coracles the great king. inscription in Persian on its western taking pilgrims for a ritual dip.

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Dodda Ghosai Ghat Karighatta This bathing spot, with a Sri Radha About 1km after the Wellesley Madhava Temple by the banks, is Bridge back towards Bengaluru, cross nice enough for a dip in the Cauvery, the bridge over the Lokapavani River but watch out for the water level. It’s and turn right towards Bannur. not a good idea to wade too deep Another 3km further, you reach the into the waters. The temple is run by 450 steps that lead up to the the Narasingha Chaitanya Mutt and Venkataramana Temple atop is open to visitors only on Sundays Karighatta hillock. The sweet smell (6am-6pm). To get there, turn right of jaggery being made in the huts at the 200-year-old Abbe Dubois nearby permeates the air. The trek up Church opposite Ganjam on the is worth it for the temple is situated Sangama Road. in a large compound fringed with tamarind and gooseberry trees.

WHERE TO EAT

Eat at the resorts, or at the highway eateries. The latter serve only thalis getting there and dosas, but are fresh and safe for Air Nearest airport: Bengaluru kids. A few bakeries in the heart of International Airport (125km/3 hrs). Taxi town make excellent fresh bread, to Srirangapatna costs `2,800-5,000; biscuits, chips and cake. The food in KSRTC Volvo bus fare: `150-300 the resorts isn’t inviting enough, but Rail Srirangapatna Railway Station is they do have tables laid out near the connected to cities like Bengaluru, river. Mayura River View is a Mysuru and Hubballi by trains like restaurant and bar that serves North Chamrajanagar-Tirupati Express, and South Indian cuisine. Bengaluru-Chamarajanagar Passenger, Mysuru-Talguppa Express, WHERE TO STAY Vishwamanava Express, Chamundi Express. Rickshaw fare from Railway Srirangapatna offers good options, Station to Main Town (1km) is `30-40 most by the river. Amblee Holiday Road Srirangapatna lies on the Resort (Mobile: 09341912221, Bengaluru (125km/3 hrs)-Mysuru 09845002665; Tariff: `1,500-3,000; (22km/45 min) Highway. Taxi or bus TE) has a swimming pool and a small would be the best option from either of boating stretch along the Cauvery, the two major cities. Bus State and peopled by ducks that surround your private buses ply regularly from boat. Fishing is part of the package. Bengaluru; KSRTC/private buses from The Cauvery river flows behind as Bengaluru (2-3 hrs/ `150-700); from well, providing a soothing view. Mysuru (1-2 hrs/ `35-60) Hotel Mayura Riverview (Tel: 08236-297114, Cell: 08970650004/

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shutterstock shutterstock home to marsh crocodiles as well. ◆ Entry fee Adult `50, Child `25, Foreigners `300 Timings 8.30am- 5.30pm Vehicle fee Bus `125, Car `30, Contact Deputy Conservator of Forests, Wildlife Division, Mysuru; Tel: 0821-2481159 ◆ Location Ranganathittu is 18 km away from Mysuru Air Mysuru Rail Mysuru Junction

Pandavapura (10km) The small town of Pandavapura has an interesting mythological tale. It is said the demon Bakasura lived here and harassed the villagers who sent Amazing rock structures at Thonnur Lake him a cartful of eatables along with a person to devour daily. That is why have a couple of scenes shot here, as In nearby Pandavapura, the Melukote kalyani (pond) is a major attraction the place was originally called ‘Hiri it provides an ideal backdrop for a Yede’ (yede means food). But the rustic setting. The Cauvery is particu 99; Tariff: `2,000-5,000) has 25 rooms AROUNDs Pandava brother Bheema killed the larly enticing here. along the riverbank and a small demon and the place was renamed playground. The location is magical. Ranganathittu (4km) Pandavapura. The town is also home Kere Thonnur (14km) At night you are lulled to sleep by About 3km off the Bengaluru-Mysuru to the only temple in India that is Drive to Pandavapura, then take the the melody of the river that lies a highway lies this hidden gem. Six dedicated to Ahalya, sage Gautama’s immediate left before the town. stone’s throw away from your room. isolated islets on the river Cauvery wife, Lord Brahma’s daughter. From Continue past the lake till you see a Balaji Garden Resort (Cell: make up the Ranganathittu Bird Srirangapatna’s Baburayanakoppal small bridge. Take the immediate left 09844892031, 08105996260; Tariff: Sanctuary. The sanctuary has paddy Circle, turn right for Pandavapura. turn. About 2km down the road, a `700-1,500), on the Mysuru- fields, streams, dense foliage, and board announces Kere Thonnur. Tall Bengaluru road, near Paschchima hundreds of migratory birds from as Mysuru (12km) trees along the shores enhance the Vahini, has 46 rooms, most with far as Siberia and Australia. See page 104 beauty of Thonnur Lake. Sail around attached bathrooms, and a vegetarian A dam built in the 1700s created the lake in round boats. The temples restaurant. There is no pool and the islets and made the place fertile Mahadevapura (13km) here date back to the Chola era. Tipu playground at this hotel. for birds. A tree-lined path leads to Drive 8km further up from Karighatta called this lake Moti Talab. On the Young Island Resort (Tel: 08236- the river from where you can take to this village, famous for its movie way up, stop and get under the falls 297333, Cell: 098545190925, the 15-minute boat ride around the connections. Many regional movies created by the lake water. ■ 09880191272; Tariff: `2,900-4,000), islets. The best time to visit is with 22 rooms, is located 3km away December to April. The river here at Paschima Vahini Circle and offers teems with fish. The banks are heavy #Awesomekarnataka a restaurant and swimming pool. with reed beds, eucalyptus and acacia. The islands are covered with For more hotels, see Srirangapatna Accom bamboo, arjun and pandanus trees; modation Listings on pages 444-445 and flocks of birds. The sanctuary is

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time to consolidate itself when the known as Mysore Palace, was built in British started interfering. Hyder 1912 — a fire had burnt down the Ali’s son Tipu Sultan bravely took old wooden residence in 1897. on the challenge until he was killed Designed by Henry Irwin (whose in the Battle of Mysore in 1799, crowning work the Viceregal Lodge earning the grudging admiration of still lords over Shimla), this palace is his enemies, who nickna med him dominated by domes, turrets and the ‘Tiger of Mysore’. colonnades. Beautifully restored and The Wodeyars returned to rule maintained, the palace is a treasure Mysuru, subject to the British writ. trove of art antiques and rare collect Once again, Mysuru revived its links ibles. In the Marriage Pavilion (open to art and learn ing. It’s a tradition to the public only during Dasara ) that lives on till today, like the die- you can see the chandelie rs, cast- hard fans of RK Narayan’s Tales from iron pillars from Glasgow and a Bel Malg udi who’ll swear they can gian glass-decorated ceiling. This is recognise its landmarks everywhere. also where the jewel-studded It’s a city that harks back to a past 14th-century Golden Throne is when the finer things in life still placed. It is believed that under all

saibal das mattered. It’s a place where time is that decoration it is suposed to be Splendour of Mysuru’s Dasara Procession measured in seasons and not made of fig wood. seconds, and where a horse-drawn tonga still continues to run alongside MYSURU an autorickshaw.

The city beautiful Things to see and do fast facts ■ Archana Rai Bengaluru embraced science and Mysuru’s glorious past does not just strode ahead into the emerging live on in its royal edifices, churches, When to go All year round o veer off State Highway 17 world of technology, Mysuru or museums with rich collections. Tourist offices and pass thro ugh the arched remained enmeshed in a time-warp It’s palpable in the unhurried yet ● Office of the Deputy Director Tgate to Mysuru city is a of old-world royalty. often grand lifestyle of its people, Department of Tourism symbolic act. One leaves behind the The Wodeyars made Mysuru and its literature and performing Mysuru Division, Hotel Mayura, frenetic bustle and the determined grand and irresistible, particularly arts. Cap the city experience with a Hoysala Complex, JLB Road, post-modernist throb of Bengaluru, so under the rule of Chikka Devaraja Mysorean sunset. “Even today I Mysuru Mysuru’s eastern neighbour and, in Wodeyar (1673-1704). He promoted would assert, after having visited Tel: 0821-2422096 (DD Office) many ways, the gracious old city’s art and literature, besides instituting many parts of the world, that Cell: 09620270688 (DTC) upstart sibling. large-scale admin istrative reforms. nowhere can you witness such W karnatakatourism.org Until 1973, when Mysore State By the late 18th century, however, masterpiece sunsets as in Mysore…” ● KSTDC Transport Wing was renamed Karnataka, it was the their sway over Mysuru weak ened wrote RK Narayan in My Days. Yatri Niwas Building, JLB Road spirit of Mysuru that imbued the when their general, Hyder Ali, Tel: 2423652 cultural and social life of the region. rebelled to establish a capital in the The palaces Cell: 08970656400 (7am-9pm) To be a cultivated person was to be nearby Srirangapatna. The young Home to the Wodeyars, the Indo- STD code 0821 Mysorean. But through the 70s, as Muslim kingdom barely had the Saracenic Amba Vilas Palace, also

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prashant panjiar ◆ Entry fee Adult `70, Child `30, Tanjore and Mysuru gold leaf children below 10 yrs free Timings paintings also form a part of the 10am-5.30pm, open all days delectable collection. Next to the palace is the Maha ◆Entry fee Under revision Timings raja’s Residence, now a museum 10am-5pm, open all days with a good collection of art and Located 5km from Amba Vilas artefacts. Normally lit on Sundays Palace, within the sprawling campus and public holidays, the grand of the University of Mysore, lies the structure is a treat, especially during beautiful Jaya lakshmi Vilas Palace Dasara when every evening its entire built in 1905. It houses one of panoply of 97,000 bulbs shine bright Mysuru’s best landmarks the Folklore and illuminate everything around. Museum. With over 6,500 articles ◆ Entry fee Adult `70, Child `30 on display, this museum is one of the Timings 10am-5.30pm, open all biggest of its kind in Asia. days Cameras Not allowed ◆ Entry fee Adult `15, Child `5 The Jagan Mohan Palace houses Timings 10am-1.15pm, 2.30pm- the Sri Jayachamarajendra Art 5pm, closed on Sundays and public Gallery with its collection of Raja holidays Cameras Not allowed Ravi Varma and Nich olas Roerich The second largest palace in the paintings. Ancient musical city, the Lalitha Mahal, is a The Gothic spires of St Philomena’s Church instruments, ivory, sculptures and spectacular white stone building, situated at the foot of the Chamundi St Philomena’s Church statue of the demon Mahishasura, Interiors of Jaghan Mohan Palace Hills. Built in 1913 by Krishna raja Mysuru’s only British edifice, on who was slain by the goddess. Nearby Wodeyar IV, it served as a palace for Ashoka Road, north of the Amba is the monolithic Nandi. guests. The tradition of hospitality Vilas Palace, is this Gothic church ◆ Entry Ordinary darshan free, special con ti nues with ITDC now running it built in 1931. It’s an imposing darshan `100 Timings 6am-2pm, as a 5-star hotel. structure with impressive stained- 3.30pm-6pm and 7.30pm-9pm; its Atop Chamundi Hills lies the glass windows and twin spires that open on all days abandoned royal retreat of Rajendra stretch 175ft into the sky. Vilas. Its main draw is its spectacular ◆Entry Free Timings 6am-7pm, open Other Sights view of Mysuru. all days Cameras Not allowed Over 60,000 palm-leaf manuscripts in Sanskrit and South Indian Rail Museum Chamundeshwari Temple languages are housed in the Oriental Located behind the railway station, Perched atop the Chamundi Hills, at Rese arch Institu te . Located behind this little known but impressive a height of 1,000ft on the eastern Maharaja’s College, its prized museum has locomotive coaches, edge of Mysuru, sits the 11th-century possessions inclu des Prof R Shama paintings and photographs, narrating Chamundeshwari Temple, Sastry’s translation of Kautilya’s the ‘Rail Story’. The prize exhibit is dedicated to goddess Durga, the Arthashastra. It’s one of Mysuru’s the Maharaja’s Saloon, crafted for family deity of the Wodeyars. You many glorious treasures. the Wodeyar rulers in 1899. can either climb the 1,000 steps to ◆ Entry Free Timings 10am-5.30pm, ◆Entry Adult `30, Child `15 Timings the temple or drive up the winding closed Sundays/ Second Saturdays 10am-1pm, 3pm-5pm, Mondays ghat roads. As you approach the To experience Mysuru at its best, closed Cameras Free temple, you can see the towering simply walk. The 150-acre Karanji saibal das

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Debanjan Bose Kere (next to the zoo) is refreshing. It also features vignettes from the Skirting the Manasagangotri Campus TV series Malgudi Days, directed by is Kukkarnahalli Kere, renowned the late Shankar Nag, which made writer RK Narayan’s muse. Narayan a household name across India. Time to return to old RK Narayan House favourites like Swami and Friends, For those readers who loved the Waiting for the Mahatma...etc. iconic Malgudi Days, a walk around its vastly popular author RK Melody Wax Museum Narayan’s House in Yadvagiri can This heritage building, less than 3 be a thrill, because this is where he km away from Mysore Palace houses wrote his now classic stories. life-size wax statues dressed in The house has been restored with traditional attire along with a wide the help of the Mysuru City range of musical instruments, said Corporation and has been to be the largest collection in transformed into a museum now, Karnataka. The museum was created featuring the books that Narayan in honour of musicians from across wrote, the desk and chair he used, the world, comprising 19 galleries his clothes, the Padma Bhushan and each with a different display of the Padma Vibhushan bestowed music and art. Entry Rs 30 Timings RK Narayan House, where he wrote many of his hugely popular stories upon him — along with photographs 9.30 am - 7.00 pm documenting his life. on the Western Ghats), or the anywhere in the country — Regional Museum of Natural ecological interrelationship among everything from the Postal Training Mahishasura statue at Chamundi Hills History (RMNH) plants and animals with emphasis Institute to something important A visit to the RMNH in Mysuru can on conservation of nature and sounding in linguistics. What this be a pretty enlightening experience natural resources, and much more. means, essentially, is that largish as it is highly learning-oriented. swathes of land are left free for a wild Opened in May 1995, the museum, Mysore Zoo growth of trees and other flora, which nestles by the Karanji Lake One of the oldest zoos in India, the managed with adorably varied with the Chamundi Hills as Mysore Zoo provides shelter to a degrees of dedication, around low- backdrop, is a popular stopover for wide range of flora and fauna. It has slung, slanted-roof homesteads. So, the throngs of visitors who pass spacious enclosures both for the walk by on a nippy day with the through this historic city with its animals. Also in abundance to be promise of rain, and the green palaces and historic and globally found here are various rare species of somehow seems greener against the renowned Dasara celebrations. plants and trees. Over 2 million pall of grey skies. Browse at leisure amongst the tourists visit the zoo annually. models, translites, AV aids, dioramas, Shopping thematic, interactive and Walkabouts participatory exhibits, which focus Steeped in southern gentility, Mysuru For shopaholics, Mysuru’s well- on the natural world in all its simply lends itself to fine walks. The planned markets can be a treat. Walk intriguing diversity, be it the floral, city-town is a diffidently colonial into the Devaraj Urs Market — faunal and geological wealth of throwback with possibly the highest named after a notable former chief South India (with special emphasis per capita institutional presence minister of Karnataka — off Sayyaji anurag mallick

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saibal das Rao Road. This market is a delightful What to eat medley of colours and smells. You will, among many other things, find Taking a tiffin break in Mysuru is the Mysuru’s very own special fragrant most delicious thing to do. The city jasmine and the tangy betel leaf. offers terrific ‘set’ dosas (fluffy, soft Also, on Sayyaji Rao Road is the pancakes made of beaten rice, served government-run Cauvery Arts in sets of three), masala dosas, uppittu, Emporium, known for its genuine rava idli and Mysuru rasam. Tasty sandalwood and ivory inlay work. If savouries like churmuris and peanut you are looking for antiques, check masala also entice. But the most out Nayanotsav, near the zoo. outstanding feature of the city is the Drop by at the Government Silk web of bakeries set up by Mysuru’s Weaving Factory on Mananthavady Vaishnavite community, the Iyengars. Road, where you can watch the Try out the veg bun cakes and nipattus famous Mysuru silk saris being at the Iyengar Bakeries on Devaraj woven. The factory also houses a Urs Road and the nearby Sayyaji Rao retail outlet, besides one on KR Road. The sublime Mysuru rasam is Circle. To buy their soap, contact arrived at by adding a freshly ground their Bengaluru head office. masala of coriander seeds, dry red chilli and desiccated coconut. The Grand Mysore Palace Yummy Mysore pak and dosa delight crisp Mysore dosa is lashed on the The focal point of the city’s meticulous trousseau and much more. Ornate as the inside with a light spread of a tangy planning, the city’s signature and the home palace is in its royal purple garb, when it’s coconut and red chilli paste. And of the Wodeyars was designed by the illuminated you have to be there to believe how can anyone forget the Mysore English architect Henry Irwin. Built on the how it feels to see it when 97,000 electric pak — if ever there was a simple recipe ashes of the old wooden palace (gutted in a bulbs light up at once. that called for the greatest expertise, it fire during the February 1897 marriage of Visitors are required to explore the had to be the sweetmeat that Mysuru Princess Jayalakshamanni) between 1897 palace interiors barefoot; shoes and made famous. The perfect pak will and 1912, this palace (also known as Amba sandals are removed just before entering melt in your mouth even before you Vilas Palace) exudes a grandeur that is the palace. These can be secured (free of can say Mysuru. quite unmatched. charge) at the stand located by the The restaurant at Hotel The Durbar Hall with its ornate and entrance gate. You must leave your camera Dasaprakash is recommended for sculpted pillars, the Kalyana Mantapa, the here as well (fee `5) as no photography is excellent South Indian thalis. Mylari jewel-encrusted Golden Throne (displayed permitted inside. Hotel has a melt-in-the-mouth sagu only during the Dasara celebrations; see ◆ Palace entry fee Adult `70, Child `30, dosa and some superb filter coffee. page 119) and the Golden Howdah Children below 10 yrs free, Student groups Bombay Tiffany’s high teas are (elephant seat) are some of the other get a discount Timings 10am-5pm exceptionally great. The Nalpak treasures of the palace. The walled palace Illumination timings During the 10 days restaurants in Ittigegudu, complex also houses several temples and of Dasara, 7pm-9pm; General/ national Kuvempunagar, and VV Mohalla are shrines and the Residential Museum, run holidays and Sundays, 7pm-8pm the best places to head for scumptous by Srikantadutta Wodeyar, the scion of the ◆ Residential Museum entry fee Per delicacies like akki and ragi roti, and erstwhile Mysuru royals. The museum person `40 Timings 10am-5pm Contact the very spicy bisi-bele-huli-anna maintains a royal collection of silverware, Deputy Director, Mysore Palace, Tel: 0821- (hot-lentil-tamarind-rice). chandeliers and furniture, crystal, royal 2421051, 2434425 Photographs: shutterstock

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Courtesy southern star Where to stay The advantage of location goes to The Viceroy (Tel: 0821-2428001; A laid-back stopover city en route Tariff: `1,700-6,900), which faces the Kodagu, Wayanad, and the the Mysore Palace. At the upper end Nilgiris, Mysuru has plenty of hotels of the scale is the Hotel Southern to choose from. Book in advance. Star Mysuru (Tel: 2426426, 2427427; Cell 09448067750; Tariff: `6,000- 12,000). Karnataka Tourism’s Mayura Hoysala (Tel: 2426160; Tariff: `1,100-2,300; TE; dorm `3,200-4,000; TE) is a good option but book well in advance. Kings getting there Kourt Hotel (Tel: 2421142; Tariff: Air Mysuru Airport is connected only to `3,500-5,500; TE) is nearby. Chennai International Airport by Trujet, The friendly, tidy and wi-fi- and Chennai is connected to all metros enabled Mauve Orchid (Tel: and major cities in India and several 4191965; Tariff: `2,000; TE), a B&B destinations in Asia and Europe. set in a century-old property, is However, Kempegowda International tucked quietly behind a department Hotel Southern Star Mysuru is among the upscale properties in the city 1 Airport in Bengaluru (175km/ 3 /2 hrs) is store and health club in a central connected to all metros and major cities location. Of the 12 quaint, spacious Mysore (Tel: 6633333; Tariff: `2,399; hotel that successfully aspires to a in India and most destinations in Asia ‘heritage’ rooms on the ground TE) in Nazarabad are other good qualitatively professional standard. and Europe. Taxi from Bengaluru costs floor, two are air-conditioned. budget options. Windflower Resort The immaculate rooms and suites, `9-20 per km to Mysuru There are also four contemporarily (Tel: 2522500; Website: all of them air-conditioned, are Rail Over a dozen daily connections, furnished ‘apartment rooms’ with thewindflower.com; Tariff: `7,970- done up in sober beiges and browns. including the fast Shatabdi, Rajyarani, glass-cubicle showers and balconies 25,240) fills the vacuum in The bathrooms aren’t dinky either. and Tippu expresses run between on the first floor, often offered as contemporary luxury at Mysuru — They have two restaurants and a Bengaluru and Mysuru Junction. Mysuru pairs with a common living area for it’s popular for its tranquil yet easily buffet breakfast on the house. Express is a very convenient connection even big families. accessible location, understated with Chennai. Yeshwantpur Express is a Closer to the city centre, the aesthetics, spacious rooms, friendly On the Outskirts good connection with Mangaluru business traveller’s choice would be service, good food and spa, although Such a legendary address is the Road From Bengaluru, SH17 via the compact and efficient Hotel MB the lone restaurant gets overcrowded public sector ‘Ashok Elite’ Lalitha Mandya and Srirangapatna is the most International Palace Side (Cell: on weekends and in high season, Mahal Palace (Tel: 2526100, used route, a comfortable drive down a 09739786223; Tariff: `2,000-4,000), while the pool gets mixed reviews. 2470222; Tariff: `4,000-35,000; TE) well-serviced road all the way to Mysuru. near the bus stand and part of the All rooms offer views of a waterbody that its website gives its location as Alternately, take NH209 till Malavalli and hotel chain with properties spread at the centre of the property and ‘Mysuru 570028’; we’re assured then turn right to Mysuru via Bannur. across Karnataka. come with private balconies. post gets delivered that way. The Bus KSRTC has Rajahamsa (`196-220), In a similar price band is Hotel Neither particularly central nor palace, built in 1921 by the city’s Airavat (`294), Airavat Club Class (`326- Siddhartha (Tel: 2522999/ 888; off the map, Jade Garden (Tel: ruling Wodeyars, once hosted the 331), Karnataka Sarige (`129-136), Non- Tariff: `2,340-5,400; TE). Hotel 4008222; W jadegarden.in; Tariff: viceroy in the 2,000 sq ft suite that AC Sleeper (`242) buses from Dasaprakash Paradise (Tel: `3,540-4,800) sits pretty on a wide now bears his name. There’s an Bengaluru’s Satellite Bus Station 2410366, 4008400; Tariff: `1,500- but quiet side street near the bustling indefinable charm about this 5,500; TE) in Yadavagiri and Ginger Law Courts. This is a mid-range extravagant property. Yet its

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alamy images / india picture cheapest rooms (best rates are water, vegan food and awesome available online) are astonishingly Continental breakfasts on affordable. Lalitha Mahal Palace is weekends. There are four rooms superbly located at the foot of (three are big, one is a bit smaller). Chamundi Hills. Opposite is the On the Mysuru-Nanjangud Road serene Indus Valley Ayurvedic is The Village Resort (Tel: 2481310/ Centre (Tel: 2473437; Tariff: 766; Tariff: `6,500-12,000; TE; 2km `18,072-37,190 inclusive of meals, from the city centre). Grand Maurya Mysuru Pickup/ drop, consultation Resort (Cell 09902429378; Tariff: with doctor, Ayurvedic treatments, `3,500-4,000; TE) is on the Mysuru- yoga session), offering treatments Hunsur Road in Hinkal. and Ayurvedic vegetarian cuisine. Top of the list in a city known for Pitched for the yoga scene here, its palaces is Green Hotel (Tel: Anokhi Garden (Cell: 08861600781; 4255000-02; Tariff: `2,440-6,797), W anokhigarden.in; Tariff: `1,500- near the university campus west of 2,000) is a longish way off from the the city centre. Formerly the centre of town. The charming Chittaranjan Palace, its USP is guesthouse, run by Frenchwomen environmentally sustainable Marie and Flora, offers solar-heated tourism. On Sundays, it runs a green The stunning, soothing interiors of Lalitha Mahal Palace hotel bazaar. Between 7am and 10am, one Intricate idol at Somnathapur Temple can pick up organically grown rice, ◆ Entry fee Adult `20, Child `10 occasions of the temple, an emerald honey, fruits and vegetables from all Timings 6.30am-9pm, open all days necklace given by Hyder Ali is placed over Kodagu (Coorg). Cameras Not allowed around the lingam.

For more details, see Mysuru Accomm Karighatta (20km) Somnathpur (35km) odation Listings on pages 442-443 Just outside of Mysuru to its north, is Somnathpur, set on the banks of the Karighatta, a place that resonates Cauvery, is known for its historic AROUNDs with Puranic lore. On the hillock temples. This region was ruled by here is the Lord Srinivasa Temple, several eminent dynasties, beginning Srirangapatna (12km) believed to have been built by the with the Gangas in the 5th century, See page 96 sage Bhrigu. The temple is surrounded followed by the Cholas, the Hoysalas, by tall slender grass known as dharbe, and the feudatories of the Brindavan Gardens (18km) said to have grown from the skin Vijayanagara Empire right up to the Mysuru’s piece de resistance, Brindavan shed by Lord Vishnu in his Varaha 17th century. While historical records Gardens, is to the north-west of the (boar) avatar. may sometimes falter, the region is city, at the foot of the Krishna Raja rich in legend. Sagar Dam. Arrayed below the dam Nanjangud (22km) The Keshava Temple at is the terraced and well-tended This beautiful and grand 11th-century Somnathpur, 30km from Talakad, garden landscaped with fountains Shiva temple is on the banks of the stands in a square of modest houses. — one of them actually dances to river Kabini, to the south-west of The Hoysalas were known for their music (Timings 6.30pm-7.30pm). Mysuru. Devotees throng here for temple-building and are credited It’s great for a pleasant evening but the healing powers of Shiva as Lord with extending the Chalukyan style tends to be crow ded on weekends. Nanjundeswara. On special of temple architecture, and anurag mallick

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anurag mallick combining the Dravidian and Indo- Mysuru tried to force the widow of Aryan styles. An inscription inside the local chieftain, Alamelamma, to the gateway says that this temple part with her jewels, she condemned was built in 1268 by Somanatha the city to a dirge of sand (and the Dandanayaka, a Hoysala general, in Wodeyars to infertility) before the reign of Narasimha III. jumping into the Cauvery. And so it came to be. The Archaeological Melkote (40km) Survey of India has, over the years, North of Mysuru is Melkote, the excavated many temples from the spiritual centre of the Sri Vaishnavite sand, though several are supposedly Iyengars. The saint-philosopher still buried to this day. Ramanujacharya is believed to have Talakad is known for the lived here for 14 years. The panchalinga temples, or the five Cheluvarayaswami Temple has a lingas, said to be born of Shiva collection of rare jewels, used to himself. Shiva as self-healer and dress the deity, Vairamudi, during naturopath, Vaidyanatheswara, the temple festival. presides in the Vaidyanatheswara Temple, a granite structure topped Talakad (48km) with a tower of mortar. A tiered Entrance to the Talakadu Vaidyanatheshwara temple The capital of the Gangas, prized by dhwaja-stambha or flagpole stands the Hoysalas, Talakad became buried in the courtyard. The walls of the a sand bank to get to the Pathaleswara panther. Herds of elephants have under sand in the course of its temple have large sculptured panels and Maruleswara temples, which been known to venture as near as history. When the Wodeyar ruler of of Shiva in his many avatars. Climb have just the cells containing the the village outskirts in these regions. linga, without the grand As a possible day trip from View of the Melkote Yoganarasimha Temple from the summit superstructure, reputedly the oldest Bengaluru, this is the place for an of the temples in Talakad. ideal weekend break. The Cauvery For a lesiurely study of the two river splits into two streams here — temple towns, stay overnight at Barachukki and Gaganachukki. Jaladhama (Cell: 09945695942; About 9km by road from Georgia Tariff: ` 9,800 + meals per couple), a Sunshine Village, turn left at resort at Mudukuthore close to Panditahalli and drive to Shri Talakad. There are many small Vishveshwaraya Hydroelectric Plant, eateries in Talakad and the Udupi labelled the ‘Bluff’. From Bluff, it is a Mess next to the Vaidyanatheswara short 5-min drive to the waterfalls. Temple serves tasty veg meals. The sight of cascades of water ◆ Location 35km or so from Mysuru spreading out over two vast hillsides Airport Air Mysuru Rail Mysuru Jn greet you here. The water is being diverted to feed what was the first Shivanasamudram (77km) hydroelectric plant in Asia. Shivanasamudram is the domain of Gaganachukki has a dargah on Mother Nature. These hills are home the opposite bank, a short drive to wild boar, peacocks, partridges, across to the other hillside. A word elephants and even the occasional of caution though — in these anurag mallick

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Photographs by saibal das regions, the falls represent a literal pool, games room, lounge and Xanadu for boisterous local revellers library. The tariff includes bonfires, and their ilk. The falls are, therefore, a morning trek, all meals, tea and best avoided on public holidays coffee. Book well in advance. while being quite acceptable ◆Location In the Mandya district, on weekends. Don’t swim here, it is on the banks of the Cauvery river Air treacherous and mishaps have Bengaluru Rail Not suitable for going occurred. A couple of food stalls and to Shivanasamudram a few vendors selling fresh coconut water and locally grown gooseberries MM Hills (112km) liberally spiced with red chilli Male Mahadeshwara Hills, also powder complete the experience. known as MM Hills (3,000ft), is a Barachukki is just beyond the sacred spot about 140km from dargah, a few kilometres away. The Mysuru. Surrounded by dense forests, falls here form a sylvan, deep pool. the ancient temple here attracts not You can swim here or even catch a only devotees but nature lovers as coracle ride. well. The temple is dedicated to Lord The villages of Malavalli, Mahadeshwara, believed to be the Panditahalli, Manchanahalli, incarnation of Lord Shiva. The legend Hebbani and Shimsapura seem is that Lord Mahadeshwara still A grand procession in front of the splendid Mysore Palace forgotten by time. Do not miss the performs penance in the temple, in traditional Friday market where you the form of a Shiva linga. Thousands can purchase some unusual items. of pilgrims from Karnataka and MYSORE DASARA A forest by daytime is harsh and Tamil Nadu throng the hills to take distant, by night it becomes an a holy dip in the Antaragange near ■ AMIT MAHAJAN who killed the demon Mahishasura, enigma. A drive at night is a great the temple. This water flow erupts and who literally lords it over the city way to indulge in some post-dinner from the ground and its exact origin asara in Mysuru is different from her hilltop abode. The demon is thrills and spot some wildlife. is still a mystery. from the northern Dussehra; said to have lived in these hills and Pujas are performed thrice a day Dit has nothing at all to do gave Mysuru its name. Where to Stay and Eat and festivals like Shivaratri and with Rama, his story or his triumph The festival became institution- Georgia Sunshine Village (Tel: Diwali are celebrated. The temple over Ravana. India’s major religions alised here and attracted state 08231-247646, 247783, Cell: provides lodging to devotees in its are highly accommodating organisms; patronage during the reign of the 09845754661; Tariff: `4,500-5,500, guesthouses, which have modern as they spread, they absorb the Vijayanagara rulers. An Italian with meals) is the only place to stay amenities. The best time to visit is religious practices of their new traveller, Nicolo Dei Conti, witnessed in Shivanasamudram. Facilities during Mahalaya Amavasya, Dasara, followers. Festivals thereby come to the celebrations in 1420 and left offered here include a swimming Diwali and Karthika Masa. ■ contain within them multiple a detailed account — the Wodeyar celebrations, joys and memories of rulers made Chamunda their tutelary various communities, ritualised, deity, and began the tradition of the evolved and then assimilated over regal Jambu Savari in 1805 during #Awesomekarnataka long periods; gods and goddesses get the reign of Krishnaraja Wodeyar III. multiple names and stories. In The king conducted a special durbar Mysuru, Dasara is a festival devoted in the Mysore Palace during Dasara, to the goddess Chamundeshwari, which was attended by members of

118 Karnataka Karnataka 119 south Karnataka MYSURU the royal family, special invitees, roads, trees, shops, police, their officials and the masses. With the mounts and people — infect every amalgamation of Mysore State into heart and produce a mega celeb- the Indian Union, the pageant is ration, the Mysore Dasara. now flagged off by the chief minister The crowd outside the palace and or governor of Karnataka, and along the Dasara procession route is attended by the scion of the Wodeyar unbelievably thick. There are family. Hence, the celebrations in cordons, trying to contain the the Mysore Palace are quite a bodies and their fervour, but they spectacle to witness. spill over, on to the road, trees, roof tops and just about every perch in the festival sight. The overwhelming faith of this population gives the festival its I am up and about early on the 10th sustenance. The faithful have and final day of the festival. My traversed many miles, have come in hotel balcony offers a view of the from the surrounding villages and palace and I can see an insistent towns, will wait hours, come rain or stream of people making its way sun, to get the fleeting opportunity towards the palace gate. The to pray to the deity who is royally festivities drape everything in view, touring the city in a procession. connect all of it together — palace, This procession, called the Jambu Savari, is the culmination of the 10-day long Dasara festival. The The illuminated splendour of the palace (left); Colour and action at Dasara festival Mysore Dasara celebrations are spread out across several locations complex, after which the procession grounds. The entire route, cordoned in the city such as Jagan Mohan is inaugurated by the governor and off with ropes and with people Palace, Town Hall, and Kalamandira. the scion of the Wodeyar royals; at packed on either side of the road, is However, the most important venue around 2pm, they climb a stage and heavily policed. Moving in the thick is in the grounds of the 20th-century shower flowers on the idol of crowd, I realise that it is here that Mysuru Palace. This becomes an Chamundeshwari, sitting in a golden the real throbbing heart, the spirit open-air setting with the majestically howdah atop Balaram. of this lively celebration, lies. These lit palace providing a stunning back- Balaram is the elephant for the crowds give life to the exploits of drop to classical Indian performances. day, clothed in the most brilliant the performers; without this adoring Every evening, as the sun sets and blues, yellows and magentas. Amidst audience, the entire show is but an spreads its reddish glow in the sounds of cannon fire, several empty routine. The crowds love the western skies, nearly 97,000 palace pachyderms accompany waves of display, and clap, laugh and scream. lights come on, all at once, convert- dance groups, music bands, horses, But it’s the diminutive idol of the ing the gigantic structure into a camels, vintage cars and colourful goddess that has the biggest, the dazzling silhouette and leaving the tableaux out from the palace gates most significant presence. Crowds assembled crowd agape. on to Mysuru’s streets. The grand greet her with worshipping cries, The palace is also where the pageant moves at a snail’s pace and the young run after her, the elderly Jambu Savari begins. A puja is held takes about three hours to cover the plaintively bow to her, as the 10-day- in a temple within the palace 4.5km stretch to the Banni Mantap long fiesta comes to an end. ■

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objections from many quarters to the ban on night driving through the reserve appears to be only strengthening the resolve of conservationists to maintain the status quo. The case is pending in the Supreme Court. I’ve been so pleased to learn that in a recent move by the Forest Department, visitors from June 2019 have to go outside the park to get their tickets, now available at the new counter at STPF Campus of Melukamanahalli, near Anjaneyaswamy Temple, from where they can also board their

FAST FACTS When to go April to January is a good time to visit, but the best animal getty images sightings are from September to The king of the Bandipur jungles December. The park is sometimes BANDIPUR TIGER RESERVE closed from February to April due to Lifeline for CONSERVATION It’s the 21st century and driving heavy forest fires through the pristine swatches of the Go there for Tigers, elephants, gaur ■ RANEE SAHANEY AND natural heritage. Its ecotourism reserve, I’m shocked out of my Wildlife/ Forest Dept offices RAMAN KUMAR warriors are working apace to ensure reverie by the intrusion of the roar ● Bandipur Range Office that generations to come will of a bus spewing smoke and merrily Tel: 08229-236043 lephants…tigers…sandalwood continue to delight in its amazing racing down one of the two national ● Conservator of Forests & Directors and teak...Exotic. Alluring. wildlife and botanical discoveries. highways running through the Gundlupet, Ooty-Coimbatore Road, EEndangered. All prey to Given the status of a reserve in 1932, reserve that connect Gundlupet and Chamarajanagar rampant development and man’s Bandipur is also one of the best Wayanad and Gundlupet and Ooty. Tel: 08226-236043 (Online booking) relentless abuse of Nature’s bounteous managed tiger reserves, blessed with No wonder there are increasing Tel: 295004 (Reservations,) largesse. Sequestered amongst the a provenance of careful preservation instances of animals getting killed Cell: 07760407576 (Deputy Forest tropical forestlands of the deep of this habitat with its varied — and, because of the sound and Range Officer) south, Bandipur Tiger Reserve, one vegetation, exotic mammals, light disturbance, being driven out W bandipurtigerreserve.in (online of India’s oldest and finest game avifauna and insect population, from of the forests — resulting in booking) parks, is valiantly fighting on to as far back as the early 20th century heightened cases of man-animal STD code Bandipur 08229 preserve Karnataka’s monumental by people of foresight. conflict. The on-going crescendo of

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shutterstock safari vehicles. I remember earlier sq km was declared the Bandipur we had to drive about 5km into the National Park. Subsequent additions forest to reach the ticket counter. of land have expanded the total area The intent is to further cut down of the reserve to 912.04 sq km. the disturbance caused by human Sprawled along Mysuru and movement inside the forest. Chamarajanagar districts in the Previously the exclusive game foothills of the ‘Blue Mountains’ — preserve of the Mysuru royals, the the stunning Nilgiri Range — reserve was drawn under the Bandipur Tiger Reserve and National umbrella of Project Tiger in 1973 — Park, one of India’s Mega Diversity ranking high amongst the very first Areas, derives even greater ecological nine tiger reserves in the country for significance by being part of the the conservation of the rapidly contiguous swathe of forestlands dwindling numbers of the apex and savannah grasslands that predator of the Indian jungles. By include those of the Mudumalai 1985, its extended sprawl of 874.20 Wildlife Sanctuary in Tamil Nadu, Nagarahole National Park, again in Karnataka and the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary in Kerala. Bandipur is an intrinsic component of the 5520 sq km stretch comprising India’s first biosphere reserve: the Nilgiri getting there Biosphere Reserve. Air Nearest airport: Mysuru Both the elephant and the tiger A spotted deer and peafowl in the wild International Airport (75km/1.5-2 hrs); are critical for the ecosystem of this Taxi from Mysuru to Bandipur NP costs constantly under-threat landscape What’s deeply concerning is the The lastest tiger census ranks `2,000-2,500; KSRTC Volvo bus fare — a stunning bio-geographic zone wrecking of this critical natural Karnataka with Madhya Pradesh `250-300 comprising generous chunks of wild corridor by rampant development, (Bandhavgarh) for the high density Rail Nearest railhead: Mysuru (80km/2 spaces of the Western Ghats, the making the wildlife exceedingly of its tiger populace. The tiger census hrs) is well connected to all major cities. misty Nilgiris and the splendid vistas vulnerable to man-animal conflict conducted in 2018 (as part of the Bus from Mysuru to the Bandipur of the Deccan Plateau. The issues. Shrinking terrain, shifting All-India Tiger Estimation 2018 or checkpost costs `80. Taxi fare is contiguous forested stretch, of habitats, forest fires and changing AITE-2018) covered five tiger reserves `2,000-2,500 Bandipur National Park, Nagarahole monsoon patterns are now par for (Bandipur, Bhadra, BRT, Kali, and Road Bandipur NP Is located on the National Park, Mudumalai Wildlife the course, robbing the wildlife the Nagarahole, a national park), Mysuru-Ooty Highway and is well Sanctuary, and Wayanad Wildlife space it needs to roam, hunt and Kudremukh, and three wildlife connected by road. Regular buses are Sanctuary, is home to the world’s mate. Its precious botanical sanctuaries (Pushpagiri, Brahmagiri, available from Mysuru (2 hrs) and from single largest Asiatic elephant plenitude has suffered too. and Talacauvery) in Karnataka, Bengaluru (5 hrs), Taxi fare from populace. Karnataka alone, Bandipur’s great treasure, its revealed that Karnataka had one of Bengaluru `6,000. Bus KSRTC/ Volvo according to a 2017 wild elephant elephants, continue to be ruthlessly the highest tiger populations in the from Mysuru (80km/2 hrs) is `80-300; census, has more than 6,000 of targeted by poachers for their ivory country. In Bandipur alone, from fare from Bengaluru (250km/ 5-6hrs) is these gentle giants (housed in the to feed a flourishing international January 8 to 13, there were sightings `550-600 protected environs of Bandipur, market. And the poor tiger? Tiger of as many as 18 tigers, 8 leopards, Bahdra and Nagarhole). parts, too, are big business. 224 elephants, 63 wild dogs, 56

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shutterstock bison, hundreds of deer, and other by the Forest Department begin wild denizens of these forests. from the range office. Trekking is now permitted in Bandipur. The ORIENTATION excellent Interpretation Centre and Souvenir Shop are bustling hubs. The Mysuru-Ooty road leads to the Northwest of the Bandipur Safari entry point of Bandipur National Lodge rears up the highest peak of Park. The Reserves headquarters and the Nilgiris in Bandipur; this is range office (Tel: 08229-236043) are Himavad Gopalaswamy Betta, at located nearby. The new ticket whose summit lies the counter, STPF Campus at Venugopalaswamy Temple Melukamanahalli village, near dedicated to Lord Krishna. The Anjaneyaswamy Temple, is located spectacular Moyar Gorge acts as the outside the forest, near the entry southern boundary between point of the Park. Bandipur Safari Mudumalai and Bandipur game Lodge, run by Jungle Lodges (JLR) of parks. The park is watered by ten Karnataka Tourism, is also located Moyar, Kabini, and Nugu rivers. here. JLR alone is now licensed to Many resorts are located in and operate jeep safaris. No private around Masinagudi town (see Where vehicles are allowed inside the to Stay and Eat on page 129). Jeeps reserve. Mini-bus safaris operated can be hired from Masinagudi (26km

Panoramic view of Bandipur landscape during a jeep safari Mother and baby elephant in Bandipur, one of the major habitats for the animal

from Bandipur) for `2,500 for 2 hrs those chancy predators, the dholes from the Forest Department’s Eco- (wild dogs) that roam the forests in tourism Wing (Cell: 08300255046). packs like local Romeos but can be fearsome when they attack prey en THINGS TO SEE AND DO masse from all sides. And there is the forest, magnificent on its own. Jungle Safaris Safaris: Forest Department mini- Rides into the parks on especially bus safari fee `350 pp Timings laid-out dirt roads called ‘game roads’ 6.15am-9am (2 trips), 2.15pm-5pm offer excellent views of wildlife. At (2 trips) Jeep safari fee ` 3,000 (6 Bandipur, only Jungle Lodges (JLR) pax) Timings 6.15am-8am, can conduct jeep safaris. Other 8am-9.45am; 2.30pm-4.30pm, resorts now have to route their jeep 4.30pm-6.30pm safaris through JLR. Keep your eyes note Elephant safaris have been peeled not just for the elephant, or discontinued. the elusive tiger, but also for the sly leopard, the magnificent black velvet Moyar Gorge skinned, white socked gaur, the lazy It’s totally worth the ride to this sloth bear and the comic antics of stunning gorge, which separates Courtesy bandipur safari lodges

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Courtesy bandipur safari lodges Interpretation Centre and pp), run by Karnataka Tourism’s Souvenir Shop Jungle Lodges, has well-furnished Located at the entrance of the rooms; its tariff includes full board Bandipur Reserve, the interpretation plus morning and evening safaris, centre provides information to forest entry fees and taxes per person visitors on the wildlife of this region. per night. Amongst private hotels, The souvenir shop stocks some there is the popular Windflower interesting takeaways for friends Tusker Trails (Tel: 08229-236055/ and family, a little piece of Bandipur 66, Cell: 09901446666; Tariff: in your bag when you leave. `15,930-16,990), near Mangala village. It has tastefully designed WHERE TO STAY AND EAT cottages and organises village visits and short treks. MC Resort (Tel: As the Bandipur reserve gets hordes 233044/ 45; Tariff: `7,080-8,250, of visitors round the year, there is a with meals) in Melukamanahalli wide range of stay options here village, adjacent to the park, is suitable for all budgets. Staple snacks another option. such as tea, biscuit, and vadas are There are many more private quite easily available in several places resorts around Masinagudi in Tamil in this area. For proper meals, the Nadu, a town located about 26km hotels you put up at are the most from Bandipur. Options here include convenient options. The Forest Jungle Hut (Tel: 0423-2526240; Bandipur Safari Lodge, run by Jungle Lodges, is one of the best properties here Department has 19 rooms and three Tariff: `6,490-8,566, +breakfast) and dorms in Bandipur (Tel: 08229- the Monarch Safari Park (Tel: Bandipur from Mudumalai. From of Mangala, Chikkayelachetti, and 236043/51/60; Tariff: `1,600 for two), 2526250/ 343; Tariff: `3,500-4,500), the Bandipur side, the Moyar Gorge the areas that are home to some dorms (`2,016-4,470 for the full which has a restaurant. The Bamboo or ‘Mysore ditch’, created by the private tourist resorts, which get dorm). For bookings, contact the Banks Farm (Tel: 2526211; Tariff: turbulent Moyar river on the park’s fully booked in season. office of the Conservator of Forests, `7,000, with meals) offers safaris southern boundary, can only be Year-round eco-tourism activities Gundlupet, Chamarajanagar (see Fast and accepts credit cards. Green Park reached by jeep safari or trekking. are on offer for visitors who are Facts on page 123) Resort (Tel: 252-6351/ 486; Tariff: Eco-tourism is another thing to looking to combine a bit of Tip At the time of booking any forest `2,500-6,500), is another convenient explore at this reserve. For over the recreation with a genuine attempt accommodation, it is mandatory to option close to Bandipur. past three decades, Bandipur has to be involved in the conservation also pay the park entry, safari and been at the forefront of the eco- of this spellbinding wildlife guide fee etc. For more, see Bandipur Accommodation tourism movement in India. environment. It’s a big hit with Bandipur Safari Lodge (Tel: Listings on pages 430-431. ■ Extending over an area of 82 sq km, botanical enthusiasts, photographers 08229-233001; Tariff: `6,800-8,300 Inputs from Soumya Prasad which is about 9.4% of the total and environment buffs. area of the reserve, the eco-tourism Some of the resorts, such as activity is conducted extensively in Wildflower Tusker Trails (which the twin ranges of Bandipur (54 sq started out as the highly popular #Awesomekarnataka km) and GS Betta (28 sq km). In Tusker Trails by a descendant of the addition, the eco-tourism area in Mysuru royals) also organise such Kundukere range abuts the villages thrilling activities.

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the Kabini river was successful. The other creatures. Besides packs of unique feature of a Kakanakote dhol, gaur, jackal and over 300 kheddah was the river drive, first species of birds, one can spot conceptualised by Sanderson in fascinating arachnid species like the 1891 in honour of The Grand Duke ornamental tree trunk spider, of Russia’s visit to Mysuru. The vast jumping spider, two-tailed spider, operation involved thousands of giant cross spider, giant wood spider people who beat drums and drove and tent spider. the elephants across the Kabini river into the stockade. Special galleries THINGS TO SEE AND DO were set up for distinguished guests and royalty to witness the drama. Wildlife Safaris Over the next century, 36 kheddah All safaris in Kabini start from the operations were held until it was Gol Ghar, the river-facing gazebo at finally banned in 1971. The Kabini river was dammed in 1974 for irrigation. Now, visitors congregate here for yet another spectacle. After winter, the reservoir waters

Photographs by anurag mallick are released for irrigation. As the A jeep safari in the forests of Kabini waters recede, dormant grass shoots FAST FACTS begin to sprout, turning the tract When to go All year round, but the into a giant grazing ground, forest and weather are at their best attracting elephants in their between October and March, with good Kabini hundreds, the largest such animal sightings from February to May, Prison turned free range congregation in Asia. Increased when massive elephant congregations protection has led to a spurt in tiger take place during peak summer. The ■ anurag mallick and Sultan of Mysuru failed to capture numbers, with 221 in the Bandipur- Gundre jatre fair is held during Ugadi. PRIYA GANAPATHY any wild elephants. A stone Nagarahole tract alone. Since Kabini Tourist Offices inscription records his disgust and is wedged between the two parks, ● Department of Tourism, Government historic area that served as an warns about the futility of the task the intersecting tiger territories of Karnataka exclusive hunting reserve of and his curse upon anyone who result in good sightings. No. 49, 2nd Floor, Khanija Bhavan, Athe Maharajas of Mysuru, tries it in the future. Wildlife photographers flock to Race Course Road, Bengaluru Kabini was the site of the legendary No further attempts were made Kabini forest to shoot its legends Cell: 09686633491, 07795516979 kheddah operations, where entire until the first British kheddah like Mr Kabini or Bhogeswara Tusker, W karnatakatourism.org elephant herds would be stockaded operation by Colonel Pearson in with ivories so long, they scrape the ● Jungle Lodges and Resorts Ltd. into a ditch. Select ones were caught 1867, which was also unsuccessful. ground. The biggest leopard with Ground Floor, West Entrance and trained for timber operations Another officer, GP Sanderson from the largest territory is the Water Khanija Bhavan, Race Course Road and the Mysore Dasara festival. The the Canal and Irrigation Department, Tank Male or Torn Ear while the Bengaluru first attempt to capture elephants in made an attempt in 1873 and met a Backwater Female tigress gives great Tel: 080-40554055 this manner was made by Tipu similar fate. However, his second sightings as does the solitary black W junglelodges.com Sultan’s father Hyder Ali in 18th attempt in 1874 at Kardihalli in the panther. Yet, in the quest for big STD code 080 century. Despite using his army, the Kakanakote forest on the banks of mammals, it’s easy to miss out on

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and a Responsible Tourism Walk. Kabini River Lodge (Cell: 09449599754; Bengaluru reservations Tel: 080-40554055; Tariff `8,885- 15,694, +meals, 1 boat safari, 1 jungle safari pp; dorm `5,095-6,501 +meals, getting there 1 boat safari, 1 jungle safari pp) once Air Nearest airport: Mysuru Airport served as the hunting lodge of the (70km/ 1 hr) is connected only to Mysuru royals and has been rated as Chennai International Airport by TruJet. one of the Top 5 Wildlife Resorts in However, Kempegowda International the World by the British Tatler Travel Airport in Bengaluru (250km/ 5 hrs) is well Guide. Water Woods (Bengaluru connected to all major Indian airports and reservations Tel: 080-46732010; Tariff several in Asia and Europe by all Indian `16,140-23,554 +meals), located in domestic airlines and several international Karapura, is a lovely waterfront carriers. Taxi costs `9-18 per km property on the banks of the reservoir. Rail Nearest railhead: Mysuru Junction Kaav Safari Lodge (Kochi (71km/ 1 hr) is connected to reservations Tel: 0484-2864800, Cell: Bengaluru, Delhi, Chennai, Mumbai, 09995803861; Tariff `17,230-18,600 Guwahati and other cities. Taxi costs +meals) at Malalli Cross is a private `2,000 (Non-AC) `2,700 (AC) six-room safari lodge with four rooms Road From Mysuru’s Hand Post Circle, Elephant; Crested Serpent Eagle; Kabini Gaur in a complex with a common living; take the Mananthavady Road till Kabini and an upper deck facing the forest Circle. About 5 km from Antarasante; the iconic Kabini River Lodge, run by are two drives a day of 3 hrs each, at and two plush tents on stilts nearby. enter the jungle road to Kabini River JLR. The serene boat ride accesses 6.30 am and 3.30 pm (reporting time Overlooking the disused old forest Lodge at Karapura. The resorts are 2km parts of the lake not reachable by at your resort is 30 minutes prior). department road, you can spot gaur ahead. Bus Daily KSRTC bus services jeep for sighting wildlife such as While the safari cost is billed into the and big cats right in your backyard. serve Kabini from the Central Bus mighty elephants and crocodiles. JLR per person tariff, most other The Serai Kabini (Cell: Stand in Bengaluru Wildlife safaris are carried out by resorts have an all-meals package 09945602305; Bengaluru reservations boat on the reservoir or by jeep in and charge for the boat or jeep safari Tel: 080-40012200, Cell: the two tourism-heavy zones. The separately (`1,650 pp), including a 09900063960; Tariff: `41,900-64,480 now run as The Serai. Kayaking, forested Zone A is significantly larger transfer to/from JLR. +meals for 2N; TE) at Karapura bicycle trails, bonfires and nature and covers part of Nagarahole’s Village, Antarasante Hobli, was once hikes are arranged on request. n Antharasanthe wildlife range while Where to Stay and Eat tiger conservationist TGR ‘Tiger’ on the other hand, the quaint Ramesh’s resort Cicada Kabini before For more, see Kabini Accommodation lakeside Zone B covers DB Kuppe Evolve Back Kuruba Safari Lodge it was acquired by Coffee Day and is Listings on page 438 range, the preferred route in hot (Bengaluru reservations Tel: 080- summer months. Unlike most other 25127000, 46184444; Tariff `30,600- wildlife parks, Kabini does not shut 36,900 +meals & nature activities), #Awesomekarnataka down in monsoon, and the jeep and located in Bheeramballi Village, was 16-seater and 20-seater safari vans formerly known as Orange County and boats are equipped with a Kabini. It offers a luxurious stay with canopy, come rain or shine. There Kuruba dances by a poolside campfire

132 Karnataka Karnataka 133 south Karnataka BR Hills WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

In recent years, the sanctuary has THINGS TO SEE AND DO been exposed to the ravages of quarrying along its fringe areas. This sanctuary is covered with thick Overgrazing is another threat that jungles and a multitude of peaks has to be handled effectively. rising and falling like the ebbs and tides in an ocean of greenery. Whether ORIENTATION you choose to just soak in the goodness of nature or fold your hands The two entry points to the sanctuary in silent prayer at the temple, rest are Yelandur and Chamrajanagar, assured that a visit would rejuvenate which are about 40km apart. The your senses. Chamarajanagar entry is about 40km from the sanctuary via the K Gudi Camp, while Yelandur is 18km from the sanctuary. The route is scenic from the Chamarajanagar side, with the road winding up the hill via Vandarbal village in the foothills. FAST FACTS The forests are dense, the valleys When to go September to April is the deep, and they make for an best time to visit. The sanctuary, enthralling sight. If you plan to halt however, is open throughout the year at Chamarajanagar for the night, Tourist/ Forest Department offices you need permission from the Forest ● Conservator of Forests

Courtesy jungle lodges Department (see Fast Facts). But if BRT Tiger Reserve, Wildlife Division, The leopard is among the major carnivores at BR Hills Wildlife Sanctuary you are not staying back, make sure Sultan Sheriff Circle, you are on your way out by 6pm Chamarajanagar sharp. The forest guards are pretty Tel: 08226-222059 strict about the rule. W aranya.gov.in BR Hills WILDLIFE SANCTUARY Apart from the tents put up by ● Office of the Deputy Director at Lord Ranganatha’s feet the K Gudi Camp run by Jungle Department of Tourism Lodges, right next door is a forest 2nd Floor, Room No. 17, ■ SUNAAD RAGHURAM excellent bridge between the Western resthouse and the Jungle Lodges Deputy Commissioner Bhavan, and Eastern Ghats, facilitating the office located in the hunting lodge Chamarajanagar he Biligiri Rangana Betta or BR exchange of the gene pools of their of the erstwhile Mysuru royals. Tel: 08226-226512 Hills Wildlife Sanctuary, also diverse flora and fauna. Jeeps are available on hire at Cell: 09481815220 (TO), 09886070411 Tknown as the Biligiri Ranga This wildlife corridor witnesses Chamarajanagar or Yelandur to (DTC) swamy Temple Wildlife Sanctuary, some of the largest numbers of wild travel to the sanctuary. Expect to ● KSTDC was formed in June 1974 close to the elephants and tigers east of the pay `1,500 for a day trip from Hotel Mayura Bharachukki BR Temple precincts. Originally Western Ghats in the southern Chamarajanagar and about `800– Shivanasamudra, Kollegala Taluk, spanning an area of 322 sq km, it peninsular region. The forest is also 1,000 from Yelandur. Chamarajanagar was expanded in 1987, after which it home to gaur, dhole, giant flying ◆ Timings Safari hours are from Cell: 08970650053 covered 534 sq km. The strategic squirrel, and the endangered chou- 6.30am-8am, 3.30pm-6pm Cost STD code 08226 location of the sanctuary provides an singha (four-horned antelope). `450pp (10-seater vehicle)

134 Karnataka Karnataka 135 south Karnataka BR Hills WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

prashant panjiar Biligiri Rangaswamy Temple stopped the resident monkeys from The presiding deity of this temple is performing their crazy acrobatics. Lord Ranganatha, whose giant, 21-inch sandals are said to protect Dodda Sampige Mara his feet as he wanders through these This is a mammoth champak forests by night, keeping vigil. Said (Magnolia champaka) tree deep inside to be a few thousand years old, the the forest that is revered by locals. temple is perched on a peak offering According to the Soliga tribals, sage panoramic views of almost the entire Agastya planted it some 3,000 years region, and can be reached either on ago. The stream flowing nearby to foot or vehicle. Behind the temple is where the tree stands is a sight to a spine-chilling 1,000ft drop into the behold. Approach is only by jeep, as dense jungle. Iron railings, installed the terrain certainly doesn’t resemble for safety in recent times, haven’t your neighbourhood park!

Boodipadaga Deep inside the sanctuary is a regal hunting lodge. Now slightly derelict, it was once a famous forest residence of the erstwhile Mysuru rulers. This getting there is where elephants used to be trapped Air Nearest airport: Mysuru airport by the pit method, and also where Muntjac deer at BR Hills (100km/2-3 hrs) and Bengaluru airport the scourge of the jungle, sandalwood (230km/5-6 hrs); Taxi from Mysuru/ smuggler and brigand Veerappan, Trekking environs of the Basavananni Kere Bengaluru to BR Hills Sanctuary costs was incarcerated for a few weeks in The Boodipadaga area, like most area deep inside, should give you `7-12 per km 1986. Today, it is the Forest parts of the BR Hills, offers the intre- ample scope to explore the wildlife Rail Nearest railhead: Chamarajanagar Department Inspection Bungalow. pid trekker enough mud for her and spot animals. The journey (44km) is connected to Mysuru with a Sloth bears and wild elephants often boots. The place is ringed by hillocks through the jungle is bound to be few trains. KSRTC bus from Chama lurk around the lodge. Not too many and mounds clothed in lush jungles. full of surprises as you could find an rajanagar to BR Hills costs `30-40. visitors have returned from this part Anna-Tamma Gudda, Sulare Gudda, animal standing right in the middle Road Take the Mysuru highway to of the jungle without seeing at least Ittige Bare, Devara Betta, Jenkalbare, of the game road as you bank a curve reach BR Hills via Yelandur. It takes one of these two animals. Malki Betta and Karadi Gadde are or go up an incline. Sightings happen about 5-6 hrs from Bengaluru. Bus some of the spots that you can trek around K Gudi Camp itself if you are From Mysuru to Chamarajanagar Ragikallu Madu to. But not before you have the nod lucky. Once a panther was seen just (90km/2-3 hrs) KSRTC buses ply on This is a unique natural formation of the forest department and a tribal behind the dining area at about these routes. Fare: KSRTC buses `75- not too far from Boodipadaga. The guide, without whom you are bound three in the afternoon, perched on a 80 till Chamarajanagar; from water from a stream forcefully gushes to lose your way. tree. Another time, a sloth bear came Chamarajanagar to BR Hills bus fare is into a rocky depression (madu), hurtling down a slope near a log hut `30, which is available only in the creating a whorl, much like the Jungle Safari as alarm calls rented the air. The time morning at 7.30am and 8.30am; taxi movement of a stone grinder used to Even if you are not fortunate enough was nine in the morning. Although fare from Bengaluru (230km/5-6hrs) to crush millet grains. Ragi means millet to spot wildlife on the main road, it is generally safe to hang around, BR Hills is `2,500-3,000 in Kannada and kallu means stone. the safari in the jungle that takes you there is always the possibility of such Hence the name. on the Aane Hadu Road into the surprises springing upon you.

136 Karnataka Karnataka 137 south Karnataka

alamy images / india picture WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

Visitors have three options: a Jungle Lodges tented camp, and two forest resthouses inside the sanctuary. K Gudi Wilderness Camp (Bengaluru reservations Tel: 080- 40554055; Tariff `5,570-8,124pp +meals), the Jungle Lodges’ luxury- tented accommodation is full of rustic stylishness. It has eight permanent furnished twin-bed tents with modern toilet facilities. Three furnished ethnic huts on stilts (log huts) with attached modern toilet facilities are also available. Quaint hurricane lamps light up the night, Foresters carry out a tiger census as there is no electricity here. The Gol Ghar at the camp offers buffet There is a pond within the Jungle breakfast, lunch, and dinner along Lodges campus that is frequented with coffee, tea and snacks. by wild elephants, especially during The Forest Rest House (Tel: summer. A massive tusker is a 222059; Tariff: `1,600 +entry particularly famous visitor, say the charges) has two rooms and is run locals. There are two tame elephants on solar power. Another FRH, in the camp, Kyateshwara and Jaya located in K Gudi, has three rooms. lakshmi. It is Jayalakshmi on whose The caretakers here can prepare your sturdy back you ride into the jungle. meals. Both FRHs can be booked According to a recent survey, there through the office of the Conservator are 17 tigers in this sanctuary. of Forests in Chamarajanagar (Tel: Carnivores also include the leopard, 08226-222059). You could also stay wild dog, lesser cats, and sloth bear. in Chamarajnagar, where plenty of Amongst arboreal mammals, two stay options are available. species of primates have been found. Surveys in the forest have recorded For more, see BR Hills WLS Accom 254 species of birds. modation Listings on page 433. n

#Awesomekarnataka

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punit paranjpe Priest at a temple in rural Hassan

HASSAN The goddess smiles

■ anurag mallick and Shettihalli, a scenic dam, the twin PRIYA GANAPATHY temples of Mosale, and other lesser- known architectural gems of the ocated between Bengaluru and Hoysala Empire. Mangaluru, where the rolling In the heart of the city stands the Lplains gently slope into the temple of goddess Hassanamba. Western Ghats of Sakleshpur to the Locals believe that this smiling west and Chikkamagaluru to the (hassana) goddess (amba) presides north, Hassan is blessed with over the welfare of the city and also pleasant climate all year round and gives the place its name. According has been called ‘Poor man’s Ooty’. to the temple’s sthala purana, the With decent hotels, mostly name Hassan is derived from located on the arterial Bengaluru- simhasanagiri (the hill that resembles Mangaluru (BM)Road, Hassan is an a throne), where Lord Shiva in the ideal getaway well positioned for guise of a kirata (hunter) had interesting sights — a village-themed engaged the great archer Arjuna in a resort, the drowning church of duel, witnessed by the saptamatrike

Karnataka 139 north Karnataka HASSAN

Photographs by anurag mallick or seven mother goddesses. A town Things to See and Do came up around the temple and was called Simhasanapura, which over Hassanamba Temple time got shortened to Hassan. While The temple is dedicated to goddess the temple is open all year round, Amba, a form of Shakti. Legend has the shrine of Hassanamba is opened it that Lord Shiva had fought Arjuna to the public just once a year. in his kirata roop before gifting him Besides being a base for the the weapon pashupatastra. Since the temples at Halebidu-Belur, Hassan saptamatrike wished to see the lets one follow the Hoysala trail to birthmark on the valiant Pandava’s the Chatteshvara Temple at back, Shiva allowed himself to be Chatachattahalli; the Lakshmi pinned down temporarily, for which Narasimha and Someshwara temples he then cursed the goddesses and at Nuggihalli; the Chennakeshava upturned the earth, sending them and Someshwara temples at to their respective locations. The Haranahalli; the Trikuta Temple at goddesses Lakshmi, Parvati, and Belavadi with shrines of Saraswati dwell on Simhasanagiri; Veeranarayana, Venugopala, and Varahi, Indrani, and Chamundi Yoga Narasimha; the Kattameswara reside on Devagiri; while Kenchamba Entrance of the Hassan Hassanamba temple Temple at Arsikere; the Lakshmi is the presiding deity at Kenchamma Narasimha Temple at Javagal; and Hoskote on Sakleshpur Road. Koravangala Where to Eat the Vasantika Devi temple at Sosevur A natural stone image at the Just 11km from Hassan, off the (now Angadi), where the foundation Hassanamba temple complex depicts Arsikere highway, Koravangala is Most of the city hotels have decent of the Hoysala Empire was laid. Shiva in his hunter form while a home to three Shiva temples built restaurants like Shantala in Hassan small shrine to the left is dedicated in Hoysala style that date back to Ashhok, Hoysala in Southern Star, to the goddesses. The inner sanctum the 12th century. The present name Swaad in Hotel Raama, and Parijata opens only once a year for a period of the hamlet is a phonetic in Mallige Residency. of 9, 11 or 15 days in October/ corruption of its older name November depending on the lunar Koramangala. Legend has it that the Where to stay calendar. Don’t miss the unusual main shrine, the Bucheshwara FAST FACTS image of Ravaneshwara, a nine- Temple, was built in 1173 at the Hoysala Village Resort (Tel: 08172- When to go All year round. The headed form of Ravana playing the time of the pattabhisheka (coronation 256764; Bengaluru Tel: 080- Hoysala Festival is held in January veena in an anteroom. It is said that ceremony) of Ballala II by his 22340166/ 88, Cell: 09591077400; Tourist Offices to appease Lord Shiva, Ravana pradhan (minister) Bhutanatha Raja, Tariff: `13,500-19,000 + meals) ● Office of the Deputy Director created a veena by chopping off one or Buchiraja for short, hence the located in Handinkere village, Belur Department of Tourism of his heads and using other organs name Bucheshwara. An inscription Road, features crisscrossing flagstone Sumaka Yathri Nivas Building, of his body. His tenth head forms mentions the architect Bhutanatha pathways that lead to laterite and AVK College Road, the instrument’s tuning knob, the Raja as a Brahmin officer in the terracotta cottages with vernacular Near Old Bus Stop, Hassan stomach forms the base, his spine family that served Narasimha I, styling and garden-facing sitouts. Tel: 08172-268862 forms the fret-board and the entrails Ballala II’s father. There are two Besides a bar, pool, multi-purpose Cell: 09880988825 (DTC) form the strings. Like Arjuna, smaller shrines of Nakeshwara and conference hall, and facility for STD code 08172 Ravana, too, was then gifted a divine Govindeshwara built by Buchiraja’s Ayurvedic massage, there’s cycling weapon by Lord Shiva. brother in 1160. through nearby villages.

140 Karnataka Karnataka 141 north Karnataka HASSAN

Southern Star (Tel: 251816-17; garden and approachable by a Tariff: `3,000-5,000; TE) opposite driveway. It has 37 rooms, a bar, Karur Vysya Bank, BM Highway, restaurant,coffee shop, swimming features 47 modern rooms with a pool, Ayurvedic massage, shopping business centre, travel desk, and arcade and also offers car rentals. massage on offer. The popular Stay Simple Riverdale Resort Hoysala restaurant here is known (Cell: 07846011011; Tariff: `3,750 more for its North Indian dishes +breakfast & dinner) set in a 21-acre and has an attached bar. The hotel coconut plantation amid paddy also organises excursions in and fields adjacent to the Hemavathy around Hassan with guides. river near Ramanathpur temple, Hotel Hassan Ashhok (Tel: offers 10 spacious rooms and 268734-36; Cell: 08884454900; cottages. Designed in stone with Tariff: `5,900-14,720 +breakfast) slanting roofs, the rooms overlook a opposite the District Collector’s tidy garden, with a multi-cuisine Office and centrally located 1km restaurant, swimming pool and from the railway station and ½km recreational activities on offer. from the bus stand, is tucked away Mallige Residency (Tel: 260332- The elegant Mosale twin temples off the highway, overlooking a 33, Tariff: `2,100-2,650 +breakfast) is a modern hotel with the choice of origin of the Hoysala dynasty. The platform. The stone canopy depicts standard, deluxe, executive rooms temple ceilings are elaborately scenes of Kailash with exquisitely and suites; it also features Parijata, a carved with geometrical patterns carved divinities outside the popular pure veg restaurant. and there are richly carved deities sanctum sanctorum. on the temple walls. Built in For more, see Hassan Accommodation Vishnuvardhana’s era by noted Doddagaddavalli (20km) getting there Listings on page 437 sculptors Jakanachari and Located on the route from Hassan to Air Nearest airport: Mysuru Airport Dankanachari, the Chennakeshava Belur, Doddagaddavalli was once a 1 (115km/ 2 /2 hrs), but Kempegowda AROUNDs Temple has a beautifully sculpted prominent town called Abhinava International Airport, Bengaluru (219km/ 6ft idol of Vishnu with a prabhavali Kolhapura, where one of the most 5 hrs) offers more connections. Taxis Mosale (15km) (decorative arch) depicting Matsya, prosperous businessmen of the cost `9-18 per km A short drive from Hassan is Mosala Kurma, Varaha and other Hoysala kingdom, Kulhana Rahuta, Rail Hassan Railway Station is well Hosahalli or Mosale with two incarnations of Lord Vishnu. resided with his wife Sahaja Devi. connected with major cities, including stunning 13th-century Hoysala The Ranga Mantapa has a florid, The devout couple sponsored a Bengaluru and Mysuru temples dedicated to Chennakeshava lotus-shaped ceiling carved with congregation of Lakshmi temples Road From Bengaluru take NH-4 to and Nageshwara. Locally called figures of ashta-dikpalakas (guardians around 1114, built by sculptor Nelamangala and turn left onto NH-48, Awali-Jawali Devasthana, or literally of the eight directions) astride on Malloja Maaniyoja. From the point the Mangaluru Highway Via Kunigal, ‘twin temples’, they are built in their vahanas (vehicles), while the of chronology, this has been declared Yediyur and Channarayapatna to Trikutachala style out of soapstone. carved canopy of the Navaranga hall as the first-ever temple built in Hassan Bus KSRTC offers several Identical in design and workmanship, has various floral designs. The Hoysala style and is a landmark services, including Rajahamsa Executive they stand a few feet apart and each adjoining Shiva Temple is dedicated because of several firsts. It is the only `257, Airavat Club Class `501, temple has an elegant tower in front to Nageshwara and has a beautifully instance where an idol of Karnataka Sarige `199 from Bengaluru with a fine carved figure of Sala with sculpted Nandi idol in front and a Mahalakshmi has been enshrined, the tiger, alluding to the mythical prominent linga on a star-shaped where both the Vaishnava and Shaiva

142 Karnataka Karnataka 143 north Karnataka HASSAN

Gorur Dam (25km) Bisle Ghat (88km) At the confluence of the Yagachi With pristine rainforest and winding and Hemavathi rivers, Gorur Dam is roads, Bisle Ghat is a hidden gem a scenic reservoir created by the that connects the temple town of 146ft high dam stretching for Kukke Subramanya with the coffee 4,362m. Located on the Hassan- estates of Sakleshpur. Arkalgud road, the dam is a hugely popular picnic spot and plans are Chitradurga (90km) afoot to transform it into a Chitradurga lies in the Vedavathi destination on the lines of the Valley, in central Karnataka, 198km famous Brindavan Gardens. northwest of Bengaluru. Gorur village also has a lot of Chitradurga’s fort was so impregnable Hoysala shrines—Para-Vasudeva that it acquired the moniker ‘fort of Temple at the town entrance; the stone’. But it’s not just a magnificent Yoganarasimha Swamy temple built example of military fortification — in 1586 on the banks of river old temples, a palace complex, fine Hemavathi; and smaller shrines of carvings and other remnants of a Trikuteshwara and Kailaseshwara. bygone era, all make it a time capsule There are two inspection bungalows for Karnataka’s rich heritage. View of the Chitradurga Fort at Gorur Dam where one can stay after reservation from the Chief Shravanabelagola (53km) (see page ways of worship are present and is missionaries for British estate Engineer, Hemavathi Project. 150) the only example of a chatushkuta or owners, the Holy Rosary Church four sanctuaries within the same served as the mother church of the Sakleshpur (41km) Chikkamagaluru (61km) (see page structure. Though the main temple area. It was submerged a few decades This gorgeous hill station is situated 296) complex is named after Mahalakshmi, ago due to the flooding of the Gorur near NH48 is part of the Malnad four sanctuaries enshrine the idols of dam, 8km away. However, the solid region and is filled with beautiful Where to Stay and Eat Mahalakshmi, Mahavishnu, Mahakali ruins have withstood the ravages of hilly slopes and plenty of coffee and KSTDC’s Hotel Mayura Durga (Tel: and Bhootanatha in the shape of a several monsoon and seasonal spice plantations. 234342, Cell: 08970656600; Tariff linga. Entering the enclosure through floodwaters that submerged it. `2,128-2,799) is 2km from the fort. a columned mantapa, the ceiling Cruciform in shape with a long Manjarabad Fort (46km) Naveen Regency (Tel: 08194- displays a relief of Shiva in the form nave and two wings, the church is a Built by Tipu Sultan in 1972, this 230052, Cell: 07406667669; Tariff of Nataraja. The temple has a four- tribute to the excellent workmanship unique fort displays the brilliance of `1,455-3,540) is on NH4 Bypass. cornered shikhara with four small of the masons of those days. Islamic architecture in India. One Hotel Aishwara Fort (Tel: 231823; cells marking the cardinal points laid However, after many years of can even view the scenic beauty of Tariff: `850-1,700) is a short walk out around the central navaranga. pressure from the water, the roof the Arabian Sea from this fort. from the fort. ■ has caved in though part of the altar Shettihalli Rosary Church (21km) and the central nave remain. When Drive via Shankaranahalli past fields the dam is full, only the tip of the of sunflower and castor to the rural spire is visible. Salvaging stained #Awesomekarnataka backwaters of Shettihalli to see its glass and other parts of the ancinet famous ‘drowning church’. Built in shrine, a completely new church 1860 in Gothic style by French was built at Jyoti Nagar.

144 Karnataka Karnataka 145 south Karnataka Halebid-Belur

highlight is the nature of carvings The temple is star-shaped, like done on the walls, so intricate that other prominent Hoysala they resemble carvings done on architecture, and this allows a larger sandalwood rather than stone. surface area on which to execute the Halebid is in almost pristine con- carvings. Anyone who has overdosed dition even after almost a thousand on the tall vimanas and gopurams of years of living history. Visiting it is a other South Indian temples will find pleasure, partly due to that fleeting this one a relief — no need to crane sense of reconnaissance one your neck at an awkward angle to experiences on seeing the see the top. Further, all the truly Hoysaleswara Temple, a relic from marvellous sculpture is conveniently almost forgotten history textbooks, placed at more or less eye-view and partly owing to jewellery-like level, thanks to the elevated platform sculpture of the temple. that surrounds the temple.

saibal das The best part of Halebid is the Never mind that the temple is Carvings at the Hoysaleswara Temple in Halebid finely executed carved sculptures in actually incomplete — none of the its temples. Along with Khajuraho guides tell you that an imposing and Konark, the temples here at vimana was part of the original Halebid have ornate carvings, design and was not executed at the Halebid-Belur precisely done. These are so double Take numerous on the walls that they should form a noisy cluster with ■ Dhanwanti Nayak temple, particularly the locking humans and animals speaking to systems that used grid locks, each other — but they don’t. The alebid-Belur go together like interlocks and the pin and socket Hoysaleswara Temple, although twin cities. Separated only by system; they were used for attaching incomplete, resembles a finely fast facts Ha short drive, both were separately carved panels onto the engraved casket. Some of the When to go Ideal time to visit is between home to the Hoysala Dynasty for walls and ceilings. sculptures are actually hollow, rather October and February three centuries (mid-11th to mid- than being simply carved onto the Tourist Offices 14th century). They were founded by things to see and do walls. So a stick passed into the ear ● Dept of Tourism, Govt of Karnataka a Jain, Nripa Kama, whose kingdom of a figure can come out through Sumaka Yathri Nivas Building, was sandwiched between the Cholas Hoysaleswara Temple the nose and so on. AVK College Road, Hassan and the Chalukyas. The main attraction is the Strict Vaastu Shastra has been Tel: 08172-268862 The Halebid and Belur temples Hoysaleswara Temple, which followed to make the temple Cell: 09880988825 (DTC) are cut from the soft stone called actually comprises two temples extremely comfortable even in hot ● Dept of Tourism, Govt of Karnataka chloritic schist. It allowed for very joined by a single platform. The weather. One wall, for instance, is Khanija Bhavan, Race Course Road fine detailing, evident in the second temple is the Shantaleswara completely solid to block out the Bengaluru intricately-carved temple walls. The Temple. Together they took roughly afternoon sun, whereas the other Tel: 080-22352828 tradition of ivory and sandalwood 100 years to build and are still has numerous perforations to allow W karnatakatourism.org, handwork is reflected in the incomplete. This temple is set in a air and light to enter without karnatakaholidays.net sculptures of these temples. Of pristine lawn and the restoration increasing the tem-perature inside. STD code Hassan 08172 special interest are the engineering work done on the temple gives one The resultant inner space is cool, Bengaluru 080 techniques used in ‘assembling’ the an impression of impeccability. The dim and lovely.

146 Karnataka Karnataka 147 south Karnataka Halebid-Belur

saibal das Where to eat

Try Belur’s Vishnu Regency on KG Road for good North Indian and South Indian food. It has clean getting there restrooms and ample parking space. Hassan gives you an opportunity Air Nearest airport: Mangaluru (Belur is to try Malnad specialities such as 127km/ 3.5 hrs), connected by daily ragi balls with both mutton and flights to Bengaluru, Chennai and vegetarian stews. Indian food can be Mumbai. Taxis charge `9-20 per km enjoyed at the two restaurants in Rail Nearest railhead: Hassan (Belur is Suvarna Regency. The Belur 36km/ 30 mins), connected to Bengaluru Restaurant at the Hoysala Village and Mysuru. Taxis charge `9-20 per km Resort is popular for its Indian and Road From Bengaluru, it is a smooth Continental meals. Hassan Ashhok’s drive till Hassan (4.5 hrs) on national multi-cuisine Shantala restaurant is highways, and another 40-45 mins to popular for its Continental and Belur/ Halebid on state roads. Taxi from non-spicy Indian dishes. You could Bengaluru costs `9-20 per km Bus The breathtakingly beautiful Chenna Kesava Temple at Belur also try the KSTDC Mayura or some Regular deluxe and standard buses ply of the Udupi-style restaurants here. between Bengaluru and Hassan. The time of construction. The structure because its vimana was dismantled Kamat’s Restaurant, 35km away Hassan-Belur bus leaves every 15 mins is still pleasing in its proportions in 1879 to protect the sanctum from Hassan, en route to Bengaluru, See Route Planner on page 68 and the temple complex is large sanctorum. Miniature shrines flank has good vegetarian fare. enough for you to pick a corner and the steps to the temple. It is an In Hassan remain undisturbed in your ekatachala temple, with one shrine Where to stay For a heritage experience, there is the cogitations. When the sun gets too on a single platform. In the sanctum, Hoysala Village Resort (Tel: 08172- hot, go indoors and the latticework the large image of Chennakeshava In Halebid & Belur 256764; Tariff: `13,500-19,000 will allow just enough light and air is profusely ornamented. The The KSTDC Mayura Velapuri (Tel: +meals). Hotel Hassan Ashhok (Tel: to let you contemplate the pillared navaranga platform on which 08177-222209; Tariff `1,500-3,500; 268731-35; Tariff: `5,900-14,720 halls and marvel at the hollowed devadasis performed their dances is TE) in Belur has 14 rooms. +breakfast) is an old favourite on the statues of yore while you cool off. the largest platform of its kind. The KSTDC Mayura Shanthala Bengaluru-Mangaluru Road. Suvarna ◆ Entry Free Timings 7.30am- (Tel: 273224; Tariff: `999-1,900) in Regency (Tel: 264279; Tariff: `1,176- Chennakeshava Temple 7.30pm Photography Free, but Halebid has five rooms and a 2,420) is also on the same road. Located in Belur, this temple complex photography of the main deity restaurant. Hotel Vishnu Regency has two entrances but one gopuram. strictly prohibited. (Tel: 223011, Tariff: `800-1,200) on For more, see Halebid-Belur Accomm- This present brick tower was built in To the left, is the smaller, less Kempegowda Road has 20 rooms. odation Listings on page 436 ■ 1397, in place of the mahadwara that elaborate shrine dedicated to Kappe was burned down during the reign of Chennigaraya. At the back of the the mercurial Sultan Mohammad temple are three buildings — a large bin Tughlak. The temple stands on a mandapam, the Andal shrine, and #Awesomekarnataka raised platform and looks like a the Soumyanayaki Temple — built carved casket made of wood polished later, using materials from ruined to perfection. It has a flat roof Hoysala buildings elsewhere.

148 Karnataka Karnataka 149 south Karnataka ShRAVANABELAGOLA

LEGENDS AND MYTHOLOGY

An inscription of about 1180 CE at Shravanabelagola tells the story of Bahubali. Gommata or Bahubali was a son of Adinatha, the first Tirthankara. His brother Bharata, who ruled at Ayodhya, challenged his brothers to fight for the kingdom. Bahubali defeated Bharata but returned the kingdom to him. He then stood for a whole year in the Yogic pose (Pratima Yoga), which the

fast facts When to go October-March are the most temperate months Hilltop view of Shravanabelagola Tourist offices ShRAVANABELAGOLA ● Office of the Deputy Director DHAVALA SAROVARA — SAINT OF THE SILVER LAKE depictions of male and female Department of Tourism deities. The key to this apparent Sumaka Yathri Nivas Building, ■ Vijay Nambisan residents of Shravanabelagola. The paradox is that humans need a AVK Coleage Road, city’s history reaches back to the figure to meditate upon to realise Near Old Bus Stop, Hassan riving towards earliest days of an idea of India. the best in themselves. Tel: 08172-268862 Shravanabelagola, even 10km The first Indian emperor, And surely they see it in Cell: 09880988825 (DTC) Daway a man-like shape Chandragupta Maurya, made his Gomateshwara, a highly revered STD code 08172 becomes apparent, brooding over retreat here after relinquishing his figure among the Jains. Seekers of ● Hotel Mayura Velapuri the flat landscape from atop the only empire to his son and undertook a trivia will appreciate the fact that at Temple Road, State Highway 110, hill on the horizon. From outside the fast unto death in accordance with over 17m, his is said to be the tallest Belur, Hassan town the gigantic bust is clearly the Jain tradition. That was over statue carved from a single rock in Tel: 08177-222209 visible, but within the town he is 2,300 years ago, and even Chandra Asia; some say it is the tallest Cell: 08970650026 masked by his hill and his temple. gupta was not the first Jain to seek monolithic statue in the world. STD code 08177 This gentle colossus, Bahubali or refuge here. And seekers of peace will surely ● Hotel Mayura Shantala Gomateshwara, has been gazing out The Jain teaching is more a way derive it from Gomateshwara’s Opp Hoysaleshwara Temple, upon the world for just over a of life than a religion. Though it monolithic, steadfast patience and Halebid, Hassan thousand years. admits the whole Hindu pantheon, the calm smile on his lips, the smile Tel: 08177-273224 Cell: 08970654600 Yet, even the ancient Bahubali is it adores the divine in humanity. of one who has conquered himself STD code 08177 among the younger permanent Yet, Jain art abounds in classical and thus the world.

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Photographs by shutterstock statue also holds. But he could not it its name. Shravana derives from attain peace because he was standing the Sanskrit word sramana, meaning on his brother’s land. Bharata, ascetic, and is the common understanding this, gave him back appellation of Jain monks. The tank the kingdom, upon which he is about 150m square and best seen attained enlightenment. during the climb. It is easy to walk Local inscriptions and histories around the town. The stiffest say that Bhadrabahu, a Jain acharya challenge is the climb up the hills: and descendant of Mahavira, over 650 steps to the top of predicted a famine in the north and Vindhyagiri Hill (to the south) and moved from Ujjain to Shravana about half that to Chandragiri Hill belagola with 12,000 disciples. He (to the north). Palanquins (dolis) are was followed here by Chandragupta available for the former. Maurya, who attended to the acharya in his last days and thereafter THINGS TO SEE AND DO attained samadhi himself. The smaller hill, Chandragiri, has ORIENTATION the older and richer monuments. A little lower down the hill, within an Shravanabelagola is centred around old stone wall, are 16 monuments, the bela-kola (white tank) that gives 13 of which are temples of Jain Priests offer worship at the feet of the gigantic Gomateshwara statue Tirthankaras. The oldest date to the The massive Gomateshwara statue 8th century and the oldest Neminatha, and Santinatha. It is worship of gods, so most Jain inscriptions to at least the 6th another 100-odd steps to the top of buildings are not really temples. century. The larger hill, Vindhyagiri, the hill and there are smaller shrines The massive rock-cut architecture has the statue of Bahubali at its and many structures along the path. and the crenellated walls make it summit with a temple around him Notable amongst them is the figure seem more of a fortress, yet there is and several smaller temples below. of Gullakayajji, an old woman said no evidence that it was used as The statue is supposed to have been to be an incarnation of goddess such. Perhaps it is best to use the consecrated in 983CE. The town Padmavati, who inspired the Jain word ‘basadi’ or ‘basti’, which between these hills has many Jain sculpting of Gomateshwara. She means simply abode. temples and monasteries. cleaned the statue with a local fruit, Up more steps and round more It’s best to rise early, in whatever a gulla-kayi, when the scholar turns, you come at last to the season, and make the longer climb Chavundaraya could not. quadrangle where Gomateshwara up the rock-cut steps of Vindhyagiri The main doorway to the fort/ stands. He is sculpted with all the while the air is fresh. temple at the top is called mahapurusha lakshana (signs of a Akhandabagilu because it was great man) such as long earlobes, Vindhyagiri carved out of a single stone. broad shoulders and long arms. The An elegant three-celled temple, 572 Flanking the door are figures of expression of peace on his face is steps up, stands on a high terrace Bahubali and his brother Bharata. worth travelling a long way to see. buttressed by slabs of rock. This is It is difficult to know what to call Chavundaraya was a scholar and the Odegala Basadi and has images the main structure. The Jain way writer as well as minister of the of the Tirthankaras Adinatha, does not give prominence to Ganga king Rachamalla. Jain legend saibal das

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says that when his mother was told the story of Bahubali, she took a vow not to eat or drink until she had seen his famous image at Paudanapura (said to be near getting there Purushapura or present-day Air Nearest airport: Bengaluru (157km/ Peshawar). Chavundaraya set out 1 3 /2 hrs), well connected by all major with her on the long journey but airlines from all metros. Taxi to near the present site, goddess Shravanabelagola costs `3,000-4,000 Padmavati appeared to him in a (approx for return) dream. She said the journey was Rail Shravanabelagola is connected to impossible, but that Bahubali would Bengaluru, Mangaluru, Sholapur, appear at Vindhyagiri. Mysuru, and Hassan by trains like Next morning, Chavundaraya Gomteshwara Express, Bengaluru- ascended Chandragiri and shot an Kannur Express, Hassan-Solapur arrow towards the bigger hill, where Express etc. Rickshaw fare from railway it hit a rock. He had the statue station to main town (1km) is `10-50 and carved out of this monolith. It is bus fare is `10 conceived as the main figure in an Chandragiri hill, where Acharya Bhadrabahu and Chandragupta Maurya lived Road From Bengaluru, follow NH4 imaginary temple, and set against (Tumkur Road) north past Yeshwantpur the sky, it is the epitome of the mastakabhisheka is due in 2030. scent of an age when kings and holy to Nelamangala. Stay below the flyover Digambara (‘sky-clad’) Jain ideal. The Tourist Information Centre men lived only for their duty and at the Nelamangala intersection to get The actual sculptor is unknown. (Tel: 08176-257131) of the their dharma. onto NH48 (Mangaluru Highway). From In the corridor around the Shravanabelagola Digambara Jain There are 576 inscriptions on the here, it’s a smooth drive along NH48 quadrangle are some 30 marvellously Matt Institution Managing rocks — the most found on a single past Kunigal till Hirisave, short of carved figures of the Tirthankaras. Committee (SDJMIMC) at the foot site in India. They date from the 6th Channarayapatna. At the centre of ◆ Timings All day of Vindhyagiri is very good with to the 19th centuries and speak of a Hirisave, turn left to catch State Highway ◆ Related info There is a Navakalasha info and advice. The Karnataka dozen dynasties, including the 8 (Chettali Road) to Shravanabelagola. Puja to Gommateshwara every Tourism Office next door is also Gangas, Rashtrakutas, Chalukyas, From Mysuru, drive to Srirangapatna Sunday at 8am. Footwear must be quite helpful. Hoysalas, Vijayanagara kings, and and catch State Highway 7 (Arsikere left at the bottom of the hill (at Wodeyars. Notable are the signature Road) to Krishnarajpet. A country road Chandragiri, too); the charge for Chandragiri of Chavun daraya and the title leads north from Krishnarajpet to safekeeping is nominal. There are To the historically minded, ‘Kaviratna’ denoting the Kannada Shravanabelagola but is good (or bad) in clean toilets at the foot of Vindhya Chandragiri is much more interesting poet Ranna. Inside the wall below patches. KSRTC buses ply from giri. The Mahamastaka bhi sheka than the larger hill. Known as (perhaps the ‘vapra’ of the old name) Bengaluru and Mangaluru. If you stay in or ritual anointing of Gomateshwara Katavapra (which connotes a is a wealth of architecture. Most Hassan, a day-trip to Shravanabelagola is a grand event that takes place fortification) or Kalvappu from basadis are in the southern vimana by taxi will cost `2,000-2,500. Bus No once in 12 years; the last one was ancient times, it gained sanctity from style but betray half a dozen different direct KSRTC buses to Shravana in February 2018. All pilgrims may the visit of Acharya Bhadrabahu. His influences. As there are guides on belagola. Private buses ply regularly. climb up the scaffolding for a rare cave — where the slanting mass of the spot, and many explanatory Fare from Bengaluru (140km/2-3 hr) to top-down look at the statue; only rock above almost presses on the booklets are available, only the more Shravanabelagola is `150-500 Jains are allowed to perform beholder’s eyes — and that of curious and beautiful details are abhisheka. The next Maha Chandragupta, higher up, are remini mentioned here.

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ahtushi deshpande WHILE IN Shravanabelagola `900 for a five-bed room Hall rate is `650 (25 pax) and `850 (40 pax). A good long early morning walk These rooms have attached baths among the fields is recommended. (Indian toilets) and geysers. Write to In the town, the Jain Math or the General Manager, Accommo monastery, where the acharya resides, dation Section, SDJMIMC, has some interesting wall paintings Shravanabelagola, Hassan from the 18th century. The temples District-573135. Jains may also write are of the Hoysala period, from the to the Secretary (Tel: 257131), SDJ 12th century onwards. The Bhandari MIMC (address as above). There is basadi and the Akkana basadi are accommodation at Vindhyagiri itself, pleasing, finished temples. The and Jain food is available. Kalamma Temple has a seated four- Hotel Raghu (Tel: 257238; Tariff: handed image of Kali. `600-1,000), facing the tank in the Tip Bahubali and Shravanabelagola centre of town, is a fairly simple are sacred to the Digambara Jain sect place with a basic restaurant. Besides and it is not unusual to see ‘sky-clad’ these, the many comfortable hotels These elephants at a temple can only be the work of master craftsmen monks in town and on Vindhyagiri. in Hassan town (see page 437, 50km You will be wise to accept their away, are a good base for extended The Kattale basadi (dark temple) studying, but the basadi is notable customs if you want to blend in visits to Shravanabelagola. is the largest and most elaborate but for a flight of stone steps within the Shravanabelagola is strictly also the poorest lit. It has a passage building, leading to a second storey WHERE TO STAY and eat vegetarian. Hotel Raghu is a around the sanctum, but the tower with a second shrine chamber, said reasonable place for refreshments, overhead is now missing. The 1.8m to be built by Chavundaraya’s son. In Shravanabelagola, the SDJMIMC with tiffin and thalis. There is a Jain figure of Adinatha is a fine piece of Many of the basadis do not now (Tel: 08176-257258, Cell: Dosa Palace on the northern end of Hoysala art. The annexe to this hold their original deities. Some 07892471068) provides basic the tank, with much the same rates. temple, the Chandragupta basadi, figures have been shifted here from accommodation for visitors. It Jain food is available at the dates to the earliest Gangas and is other temples, or carved long after operates 22 guesthouses and two SDJMIMC-run temple hostel. probably the oldest basadi here. the basadi was made. dharamshalas on Channarayapatna Tradition has it that this was built by The free-standing Kuge Road. These have rooms with two, For details, see Shravanabelagola Chandragupta, and though it is at Brahmadeva Pillar perhaps dates three, four, five, and six beds, plus Accommodation Listings on page 444 least a millennium later, it is possibly back to 974. It has a seated figure of unfurnished halls. Up to 200 people built on the site of his structure. It’s Brahmadeva on top and eight can be housed in the rooms, and 300 AROUNDs remarkable for its two delicate, elephants supporting the pedestal, people in the halls. In these filigreed screens of soapstone. These of which five remain. On the guesthouses, the rates are `200 for a Belur (see page 146) bear minutely carved scenes from opposite side of the enclosure is an two-bed, `310 for a three-bed, and Halebid (see page 146) ■ the story of Bhadrabahu’s dream and unfinished statue half-sunk in the Chandragupta’s abdication, and their ground. This is said to be an image end in Shravanabelagola. of Bahubali’s brother Bharata, The Chavundaraya basadi, one though the guide said it was a #Awesomekarnataka of the finest, is a contemporary of working model for the Bahubali the Bahubali statue on the opposite statue. However, its inscription hill. The friezes and motifs are worth dates it to around the year 900.

156 Karnataka Karnataka 157 Kodagu Region The compelling richness of fragrant coffee plantations, colonial nuances and warm hospitality Kodagu Route Planner

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is from the 9th century that the Veerarajendra in 1790, who added region’s history is clearer. Some of his own touches to the complex, South India’s most celebrated putting in the two life-sized masonry empires of the time ruled over this elephants, and a stone turtle on the region. The list includes the likes of palace grounds — artefacts that are the Chola Dynasty, the Gangas, still standing today. Changalvas, and the Pandya, The British, who allied with Kadamba, and Hoysala empires. Veerarajendra in his battle against The Haleri kingdom reigned over Tipu Sultan, took over the fort in Kodagu for more than 200 years 1834. The Church of St. Mark’s from the 16th to 18th centuries, inside the complex is a remnant of before it passed into the hands of this rule, as are the clock tower and general-turned-ruler Hyder Ali and portico. The church also has a his son Tipu Sultan. The British museum full of artefacts from occupied the region from the early the region, particularly from the 1800s until Independence. British era. The museum also has a There is a lot to see in the segment dedicated to hometown beautiful Kodagu district — from hero, Field Marshal KM Cariappa. cultural and historical sites such as old forts and foreign settlements and places wrapped in the embrace of nature to modern resorts and quaint cafés. For the adventure buff,

shutterstock there is everything from trekking to The Madikeri Fort, built in the 17th century by Muddu Raja, was expanded later whitewater rafting and angling. fast facts Kodagu has a little bit of When to go Ideal time to visit is between everything: history, adventure, October and May Madikeri natural beauty, and, of course, those Forest Office/ Tourist Office legendary coffee plantations. ● Office of the Assistant Director Coffee Country Department of Tourism Things to see and do Stuart Hill, Madikeri, Kodagu ■ Sid Kapadia ground. One of the biggest coffee Tel: 08272-228580 (AD Office) hubs in India, this hill district is Madikeri Fort Cell: 09448004466 (TO) offee is a seemingly magical spread across 4,102 sq km of the In the heart of Madikeri town lies the Cell: 09844535509, 08073829204 elixir, with its bewitching Western Ghats. Besides large swathes famous Madikeri Fort. When it was (DTC) Caroma and heady kick of of coffee and spice plantations, first commissioned by Muddu Raja STD code 08272 caffeine, that recharges people the Kodagu is home to dense forests and of the Haleri kingdom, the fort and ● KSTDC Information Office world over. While most Indians may experiences heavy rainfall. Its the palace inside the complex were Hotel Mayura Valley View prefer the lure of chai instead, there proximity to Bengaluru makes it the simple mud structures. Tipu Sultan Near Raja’s Seat, Stuart Hill, are many of us who prefer a good perfect getaway for urban dwellers. occupied it for a brief period in the Madikeri, Kodagu old ‘cup of joe’. If you play for the Though it is widely believed that late 17th century and re-built it with Cell: 08970650028 coffee team, then the Kodagu district the Kodagu region has been stone. He was eventually overthrown STD code 08272 of Karnataka (or Coorg) is its home inhabited since the 2nd century, it by Haleri emperor Dodda

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ANURAG MALLICK Omkareshwara Temple any more. Whether or not the legend From afar, you might mistake this is based on any truth, the temple magnificent 18th century temple for itself is quite gorgeous and definitely a dargah for its bright orange and worth a visit. gold paint job. Commissioned by king Lingarajendra II of the Haleri Raja’s Seat dynasty, the temple was dedicated to Also known as the ‘Seat of the King’, Lord Shiva. Legend has it that this this spot in Madikeri is a perfect temple was built as a form of vantage point to watch the golden atonement; the story goes that a sun setting over the valleys around Brahmin was caught in the political Kodagu. Clearly, the former monarchs crosshairs of the monarch, and of the Kodagu district thought so, because his death was unjust, his too, because this spot has long been spirit lingered, giving the king a place of relaxation for the region’s nightmares. The king’s courtiers then royalty, and there’s even an old advised him to build this temple in pavilion here from where they used order to make peace with the to enjoy the view. Today, the spot Brahmin’s spirit, and supposedly, the has a sprawling garden, complete idea worked. After building the with a musical fountain, and even Omkareshwara Temple, the king has a little toy train for children. wasn’t plagued by those nightmares ◆ Entry fee `10 Golden Buddhas at the Bylakuppe Tibetan Settlement, spread over 3,000 acres

The Omkareshwara Temple is said to have been built to appease a Brahmin’s spirit Gaddige and is home to the Namdroling The Raja’s Tombs, or the tombs of Monastery and the famous Golden the sleeping kings, are the final Temple. Over 3,000 Buddhist monks resting place of king Dodda live in the monastery, which was Virarajendra, his wife Mahadevamma established in 1963, and today has a on one side, and flanked by a tomb high school, institutes, a research for Lingaraja (his brother) on the centre, a nunnery and more. The other side. Though the tombs are monastery is also amongst the few built in the Indo-Saracenic style of places in India where Losar or the architecture, with a dome in the Tibetan New Year is celebrated in centre and turrets on the four corners February or March. During this of the structure, since the kings were period, decorations are put up, all Hindu, there are carvings of Lord processions are held, and the Shiva and Nandi on the tombs. compound is even treated to traditional Lama dances. The massive Bylakuppe Tibetan Settlement golden Buddha statues draw many a A Tibetan settlement spread across tourist to the settlement. 3,000 acres of land, Bylakuppe was established in 1961 by exiled Tibetans Cauvery Nisargadhama fleeing from Chinese rule. It is one of A small island in the Cauvery river, the largest Tibetan colonies in India, Nisargadhama can be accessed via a ANURAG MALLICK

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shutterstock hanging bridge. The island is a great Dubare Elephant Camp place to get away from the chaos of If you are fascinated by pachyderms, busy Madikeri and enjoy a relaxing Dubare is the place to go to. Run by boat ride. With sandalwood trees the forest department, the Elephant and bamboo groves all around, Camp is home to a huge herd, and taking a walk here is an immensely trained naturalists give you an insight enjoyable experience. The island also about these gentle giants. You can has enclosures that house spotted not only watch the elephants in deer and rabbits. There is also an their natural habitat but also get up assortment of adventure courses to close and interact with them; keep children occupied. The island elephant rides are available. These has a special spot where the fences are all elephants that have been surrounding the island part to allow retired from logging operations and you to venture into the Kaveri River. a visit to this camp is an extremely The place is peaceful (when not too informative and enjoyable one. crowded, which it usually is on weekends and holidays) and a great Coffee plantation visits spot to relax. You can even choose to With Kodagu’s strong coffee live in treehouses and bamboo credentials, it’s not surprising that cottages run by the state’s forest plantation walks, visits and stays are Pristine beauty of the Cauvery Nisargadhama forested island department if you wish. a part of the tourist setup. You can ◆ Entry fee Adult `10; Child `5 explore coffee plantations, see what `3,068-6,136) and Hill Town serene and tranquil surroundings. the plants look like, and depending Hotel (Tel: 223801) offer 50 rooms, Gubbimane Homestay (Cell: Dubare Elephant Camp upon the time of the year, even while another property nearby, The 07760795415; Tariff: `1,300pp +all witness the beautifully red cherry- Highton Hotel, has 31 rooms. You meals) also in Kabbinakad, serves like coffee plant in bloom, or witness need to call ahead for rates. Club vegetarian meals. Amanvana the process of air-drying the seeds Mahindra Kodagu Valley (Tel: Luxury Spa Resort (Tel: 08276- extracted from the plants. Visiting a 221114; Tariff: `12,000-20,000), 279353-55, Cell: 09480696070/ 71; plantation is an important addition located on Galibeedu Road, offers Tariff: `13,325-14,988 +breakfast, to any to-do list if you are a coffee adventure sports, and has a pool, activities), Kannika International nut and would like to understand spa and library. The Last Resort (Tel: 274728, 273318; Tariff: `1,998- how that delicious brew goes from (Cell: 09880742726; Tariff: `2,500pp, 2,499 +breakfast), and Parumpara seed to plant to bean and eventually with meals), in Hosapatna, is a Resort & Spa (Cell: 09901308444; rests in a jar on your kitchen mantle swanky private cottage with four Tariff: `5,600-10,500, full dorm: as coffee powder. cosy rooms. `11,500 +two meals; TE) are good The Forest Department has options in Kushalnagar. WHERE TO STAY AND EAT a guest house (Tariff: `400-600) Madikeri has superb eco-farm with two rooms at Nanjarayapatna and plantation stays as well. Located In Madikeri, Coorg International Post near Valnoor. The Tamara 2.5km from Madikeri, Shanti Estate (Tel: 08272-228071-72, 229390; Coorg (Bengaluru Tel: 080- Bungalow (Tel: 223690, Cell: Tariff: `4,800-11,500 +breakfast; TE), 71077700; Tariff: `14,000-18,000 09845505200; Tariff: `500-1,000pp) Karnataka Tourism’s Mayura Valley +breakfast; TE), in Kabbinakad is spread over acres of coffee estate. View (Tel: 228387, 298387; Tariff: Estate, is a luxury stay, offering Golden Mist Plantation & Resorts shutterstock

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ANURAG MALLICK (Tel: 265629, Cell: 09448903670, and monks, on a winding hill road 09663923679; Tariff: `3,000pp, with will take you to Madapur. The road meals), and Rainforest Retreat (Tel: to Madapur from Bengaluru, in fact, 265638, Cell 09481501623; Tariff: opens up on a typical countryside Cottages `3,000-4,000, tents `2,000 landscape — palm trees, paddy fields +breakfast) are located in Galibeedu. and a scattering of villages. But once Nestled in leafy environs, Hillyside you reach the tiny hamlet Madapur, Estate (Tel: 08276-262666, Bengaluru it will bewitch you with its unique reservations Tel: 080-41237561, rustic charm. Whether it’s a trek to Cell: 09880031470; Tariff: `1,500) is Makkala Gudi Betta or the ‘Kodaikanal a good choice. of Kodagu’ to enjoy the backwaters of Harangi reservoir or a visit to For more, see Coorg Accommodation Mallalli Falls, this is a place where Listings on page 441. you can get in tune with nature and let the Madapur river wash your Arounds troubles away. Check into any of the two Madapur (21km) beautiful homestays. Run by the A 90-minute drive from Kushalnagar, owners of a coffee plantation, Bel a market place bustling with activity Home is a beautiful estate with a great view. The knowledgeable The lush greens of Siddapur owners not only offer their valuable Bhagamandala, with its three temples, is at the confluence of three rivers insights into this gorgeous slice of Kodagu, they also spoil your taste Ammathi is an education in Kodava cuisine. buds with delicious Coorgi home- The annual Family Hockey Festival Bonfires can also be arranged. cooked food. Coorg River Valley here was intended to integrate far- Coorg Golf Links (Tel: 298009; Homestay is another excellent flung Kodava families. The plan Tariff: Non-members `3,000, option where you can relax by the worked as relatives made it a point to members `1,500) also has a beautiful riverbank and enjoy the chirping of visit Coorg during the month-long cottage, overlooking the golf course. birds and savour the delights of fest that has become the Woodstock Sand Banks (Cell: 09448588150; living in the lovely independent of Sports. Tariff: `3,500-4,000) has cottages and cottages. Spacious bedrooms, a Homestays offering a variety a thatched hut that serves as a swimming pool, and plenty of fresh activities and Coorgi food dot the charming dining area. air and open spaces will ensure area. Do make bookings for your stay your utmost comfort. well in advance. Bhagamandala (35km) Evolve Back Resort (Tel: 08274- This is a temple town at the Siddapur (28km) 252481-84; Tariff: `33,000-70,000 confluence of the Cauvery with the Before the British colonialists +meals, activities) offers serene views, Kannike and the invisible Sujyothi transformed Siddapur’s lush forest a plethora of activities and a choice rivers. Three temples are dedicated to cover into coffee estates, it used to be of three restaurants. Bhagamandaleswara, Subrahmanya, called Siddhapura. The drive to this Alath-Cad Estate (Tel: 252589, and Vishnu. These temples are lit up town is scenic and 8km away is 252190; Tariff: `2,500-4,000) is in by oil lamps during a festival in Ammathi, a place worth visiting. Ammathi. Their home-cooked buffet October/November. A dip in the river punit paranjpe

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Srikanth kolari tall atop the Western Ghats and provides a spectacular view of the multiple green hues of a vast coffee plantation. Meanwhile, the gorgeous 50-year old Glenlorna Bungalow with its sprawling bedrooms is best getting there enjoyed with a steaming cup of tea, Air Nearest airport: Kannur International overlooking the only tea plantation Airport, Kerala (90km/2-3 hrs) and in Kodagu. Although set in the Bajpe International Airport, Mangaluru quietude of the countryside, the five (136km/3-4 hrs). Both are well- bungalows are far from old school connected to most major cities of India. — room service, laundry service, Air India, Indigo, Spicejet, etc are some television channels, and wi-fi are of the major carriers which serve available on-site. domestic and international destinations. Moreover, there are plenty of fun Taxi hire cost (two-way) from Kannur to activities to keep you engaged Madikeri is `4,000-5,000, and from throughout your stay. Birdwatching, Mangaluru `5,000-6,000. KSRTC Volvo photography, cycling, nature walks, bus fare from Mangaluru is `500-700 trekking, golf and open-jeep drives and normal bus fare is `140-300. There through lush plantations, where are also private bus services to Madikeri you can learn about coffee-making (4 hrs/ `550-600) Tata Coffee’s Woshully Estate Bungalow, Polibetta techniques, can keep you busy. The Rail Nearest rail head: Hassan (104km) fresh air infused with the aromas of /Mysuru (117km). It is a 3-hr drive to at Bhagamandala is a papasnana ; it is Polibetta (39km) coffee, vanilla, pepper and other Madikeri from both. Taxi to Madikeri said to wash away your sins. Another Kodagu is a land of mesmerising spices add to the inexplicable beauty costs around `4,000-5,000. There are site worth a visit is the Bhagamandala beauty and scenic charm, which was of the place. KSRTC buses which ply from Hassan temple. The Kodava king Dodda a huge attraction for the British, (4 hrs/`123) and Mysuru (4 hrs/ `118- Veerarajendra reconstructed this 200 who carved out a string of estates in Talacauvery (43km) 347) Road Madikeri is quite well years ago. It has carved ceilings and the most spectacular of locales. At Talacauvery, the shrine to goddess connected by road as it lies on the pillars painted with vegetable dyes. Polibetta is considered the ‘coffee Kaveri is set against the backdrop of SH-88 and can be easily accessed by home’ of Coorg and is located 40km the Brahmagiri Hills, which rise up road. Bus KSRTC buses ply regularly Where to Stay and Eat south-east of Madikeri, a part of to 4,396ft. A dip in the spring at from Hassan (104km/ 4 hrs/ `123), There are a few lodging options in Kodagu’s ‘Golden Quadrilateral’. Talacauvery is the punyasnana , the Mysuru (117km/ 4 hrs/ `118-347), Bhagamandala. Of these, KSTDC’s The Tata group, which has a great holy dip. The only accommodation Mangaluru (136km/ 3-4 hrs/ `500-700) Hotel Mayura Talakavery (Cell: interest here in the coffee business, options, for Talacauvery, are in to Madikeri 08970650030; Tariff: `1,344-1,456, offers five ‘holiday home’ bungalows Bhagamandala (8km). ■ dorm bed `200-300), has comfortable in the area that are now operated by lodging. The hotel’s dining hall Taj management, and serve up an serves good vegetarian food. For excellent experiential sojourn of rich #Awesomekarnataka meals, the Mayur Residency is a history, luxury and heritage. clean eatery. You can also eat good The Polibetta Bungalow, with its vegetarian food at Santosh Hotel, wooden flooring and intricately right next to the temple. engraved Victorian furniture, stands

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called it Virarajendrapet after foot of Malethirke Hill, which wears himself, which over the years, got a bottle-green cloak owing to its truncated to Virajpet. dense forest cover with the spire of The cultural mix in Virajpet is St. Anne’s Church visible from afar. what makes it different. After the Battle of Plassey in 1757 and the defeat of Nawab Siraj-ud-Daula by the British, many Bengali Muslims moved to the south, to settle in Kochi and Kannur. The Kodagu king invited them and various other fast facts communities to populate his newly When to go A good time to visit is founded town. About 100 between mid-December and June, descendants of these Bengali when a series of annual festivals take Muslims from Kannur came to place. The temples of local deities like Virajpet during mid-1790s. The area Bhagavathy and Bhadrakali are at their where they established homes is colourful best. The first festival in Coorg known as Bengali Street. Virajpet is kick-started by Kundath Bott in Kunda accommodated Bunts, Gowdas and Village (after Tula Sankaramana around Brahmins from South Kanara, October 17th/18th) and the last festival

SHUTTERSTOCK Christians from Kannur and takes place at Barana Namme in The St. Anne’s Church spire is visible from afar amid the greenery Periyapatna, Moplas from Malabar, Kandangala Village. The Bhadrakali Tamilians from Madras, Telugu namme (Kali festival) at Kukloor Village Chettis from Andhra, Devangas and in Virajpet takes place around April 23 VIRAJPET Jains from Mysuru; even today and is a colourful and spirited avenues like Telugu Street and Jain celebration. born of a war Street can be found in town! Tourist Offices Due to its proximity to the Kerala ● KSTDC ■ anurag mallick and Bombay, from the south via Heggale border, Virajpet developed as a key Hotel Mayura Talakavery PRIYA GANAPATHY pass in Kodagu (Coorg), aided by commercial centre of Kodagu. The Virajpet-Talakaveri Road, Veerarajendra. The British and the country’s first beekeepers’ Bhagamandala, istory recounts how the Kodavas proved to be invaluable co-operative society was formed Kodagu valiant Kodavas repeatedly allies, especially in the Fourth Anglo- here in 1936 and Virajpet shot to Tel: 08272-243143 Htook on the might of Hyder Mysore War, in which Tipu Sultan fame as the highest producer of Cell: 08970650030 Ali and his son Tipu Sultan. After was killed. A new relationship was honey in Asia. One of the main ● Office of the Assistant Director several rebellions, the Kodava king forged, which paved the way for a districts of Coorg, Virajpet is a nodal Department of Tourism Veerarajendra I entered into an transfer of cultures — from British town. Shops jostle against each Stuart Hill, Madikeri, Kodagu alliance with the British against the etiquette to Scotch and love for the other on either side of the narrow Tel: 08272-228580 (AD Office) Tiger of Mysuru. It is said that gun and game. Legend has it that road that swoops and rises. The Cell: 09448004466 (TO) Srirangapatna, Tipu’s stronghold, the Kodagu king Veerarajendra I frenetic commercial activity, coupled Cell: 09844535509, 08073829204 was attacked by Lord Cornwallis founded a township in 1792 at the with honks and people speaking (DTC) from Bangalore and by General spot where he first met Major different tongues adds to its vibrant STD code 08272 Abercrombie, the Governor of General Robert Abercrombie. He air. The township is located at the

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ANURAG MALLICK Stay at little homestays tucked magnificent view of the town. It’s a away around town, visit a devarakadu steep climb and it’s more sensible to (holy grove), play golf at Bittangala take a jeep to reach the top. You need and escape to nearby getaways like to disembark and trek up a short Chelavara Falls, Nalknad Palace, distance to visit the Shiva temple. Padi Igguthappa Temple, and Thadiandamol, the tallest peak in St. Anne’s Church Kodagu. (See Virajpet on page 447) A key landmark of Virajpet, St. Anne’s was originally built as a small Things to See and Do European-style church in 1792 under the direction of Father Gullivan with Malethirke Hill the support of Kodagu’s rulers. It was Virajpet town is dominated by the dismantled in 1811 and again in Malethirke hill, which commands a 1868 to be replaced by a new spacious church in the present Gothic style. The most magnificent aspect is the 180ft steeple, besides the copper roof, decorated interiors and statues from the Bible. Although King Veerarajendra I presented a gold getting there crown, an ornamental brass box and Air Nearest airport: Kannur International a brass lamp to the church, only the The glass-like sheen of the crystal waters of Perambady Lake Airport, Kerala (58km/1-2 hrs), Bajpe lamp with his inscription remains Airport, Mangaluru (165km/4-5 hrs); Taxi today. The location is picture-perfect temple right next to the clocktower An 18-hole course (6950 yard, par 72 from Kannur to Virajpet costs `1,200- as the church is tucked away from and during the annual Ganesh course), it hosts more than a dozen 1,400; and KSRTC Volvo bus fare is the road and rises amidst leafy Chaturthi festival, this busy Virajpet tournaments through the year. `400; from Mangaluru, KSRTC Volvo coconut trees and red-roofed junction gets chock-a-block with Interspersed with water bodies, tanks bus fare is `450-570 buildings with vast paddy fields on devotees of the elephant god. and natural hazards, the front nine Rail Nearest railhead: Mysuru (110 km/ one side and the majestic Malethirke holes are fun to play while the nine 2.5 hrs) is well connected to all major hill in the background. Perambady Lake at the rear are flatter, narrower and cities. Bus from Mysuru to Virajpet From Virajpet town, take the main more challenging. costs `110-140. Taxi fare is `2,500- Clocktower road towards Kerala via Meenpet. u Contact Coorg Golf Links, Spring 3,000 A prominent landmark, the Just a little past the check-post the Valley Annexe, Bittangala Tel: Road Take the Mysuru highway and clocktower stands on an elevated road curves and the beautiful 08274-298009 follow SH-88A to reach Virajpet via point right in the middle of Virajpet’s Perambady lake lies like a glimmering Tittimati, Gonikoppal and Bittangala. It main street. It was built in 1911 by sheet of glass. The trees and the SHOPPING 1 takes about 5 /2 hrs from Bengaluru. Mukkatira Aiyyappa to commemorate densely foliated hill looming in the Bus From Mysuru (110km/2-3 hrs) British King George V’s visit to India. background cast a stunning reflection Coffee, spices, honey, home-made KSRTC buses ply regularly on these An inscription on the clocktower in its still waters. wine and snacks can be bought from routes. Fare: KSRTC/private buses mentions the foundation stone was Virajpet and Gonikoppal. Pick up `110-300; fare from Bengaluru laid by Sir Hugh Daly, the Chief Golfing at Bittangala traditional Coorg jewellery like (235km/5-6 hrs) is `550-600 Commissioner of Coorg, on February The dew-drenched golf course is best peechekathi, odikathi, kupya chale, 5, 1915. There’s a beautiful Ganesha experienced in the crisp morning air. kokkethathi and jomale at Coorg

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ANURAG MALLICK Traditional Jewellery Works on nature with neat and clean rooms Gonikoppal Road in Virajpet. and a sitout that serves as the dining area where home-cooked Kodava Where to Eat fare is served on request. Rooms are equipped with en suite bathrooms While driving into Kodagu, make a and TV. A trip to their coffee estate lunch stop at Cuisine Papera in can be arranged at an additional Gowri Complex on the Virajpet- cost. Ambatty Greens (Tel: 08274- Mysuru Road in Gonikoppal. Try 298004, 298012; Cell: 09008785744; local Coorg cuisine like pork choodals, Tariff: `10,880-12,160 +breakfast) at voneyy yerchi (smoked pork), bemble Bittangala, Coorg Golf Links, is run (bamboo shoot) and pandi curry. by the Amritara chain. The golf resort is in a picturesque valley and Where to Stay offers 24 aesthetically designed rooms overlooking the 18-hole golf 37, Malabar Road (Cell: course and Ambatty Hills on the far 09886827885; Tariff: `2,000-3,000) side. The restaurant has an electric at Anugraha, 37/12B, Malabar Road, fireplace at its centre with an indoor is an independent house located in and outdoor section overlooking the Ritual dances are performed at festivals to honour the gods of sacred groves town overlooking paddy fields, a golf course and an attached bar. The garden and a backyard with a small complex has beautiful landscaping patch of coffee bushes. Despite being in a 2-acre patch, enhanced by two Devarakadu: The sacred groves of Kodagu close to town, the B&B is snug amidst waterfalls, a lily pond, with plenty of Kodagu is the hotspot of the sacred grove dedicated to Subbamma, Gangadeshwara, tradition in the world and boasts the highest or Murudeshwara, deities from the Hassan Kick back and relax at the serene Ambatty Greens density of groves in the world. Sacred or old Mysuru district. In Mercara and groves or temple forests are one of the Sampaje, influences from South Canara oldest forms of conserving tropical forests. and Kerala prevail, and lots of devarakadus Of the 1,214 sacred forests in Kodagu, 508 are dedicated to naga devas. Annual are in Virajpet Taluk. These groves are festivals or namme see vibrant temple named after local gods (165 local deities, dances, such as the Bolakk aat (lamp many from Kerala) and managed by local dance), Kathi aat (knife dance), Peeli aat village communities. (peacock feather dance), Komb aat (stag The most prominent deity is Ayyappa, horn dance) and Chowri aat (yak tail/bison with 162 groves dedicated to him. Botekara tail dance) being performed. Some noted Ayyappa is Shiva in hunter form devarakadus include the Ayyappa accompanied by dogs, with offerings of devarakadu in Kollatholbaigod village. The terracotta dogs. Many devarakadus are sacred grove has a huge monolithic rock dedicated to Chamundi, Bhadrakali, and a smaller obelisk nearby, signifying his Bhagavathy, or Kali — different names for younger brother Pollappa (Subramanya). Shakti; she is offered terracotta horses. In The Vana Bhadrakali devarakadu lies just Virajpet region, several devarakadus are off the main road from Virajpet-Bittangala dedicated to Sarthaavu (form of Shiva). towards Hathur village. The 16-acre grove Around Somwarpet, the sacred groves are has an annual festival on June 15. Courtesy AMBATTY GREENS

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ANURAG MALLICK they walk over burning heaps of coal tributary of the river Cauvery near and leaping flames. Cheyandane on the way to Kabbe Holidays homestay. The falls are Where to stay visible after walking a few metres Springdale Estate Villa (Cell: into the forest and gush down from 07676107777; Tariff: `3,500 a height of 150ft on a rock shaped +breakfast; TE) is located at Kadanga, like a tortoise, thus called embepare Arapattu Village. (tortoise rock) in the local language. A short drive from the main road The deceptively beautiful falls are takes you up a long driveway leading approximately 100ft deep in parts. to lush coffee and spice plantations One can easily get pulled into its for a luxe countryside stay with four dangerous waters and cautionary spacious double room villas. Stroll signs warn visitors against getting around the plantation, which has a into the water. More than 20 people stream flowing through it, go have died here. The falls are at their birdwatching, angling, trekking or best during monsoon. just curl up with a book on the balcony that offers great views of Kabbe Pass (23km) the property. Lunch and dinner Kabbe Pass has been the proverbial The Chelavara Falls are formed by a tributary of river Cauvery served on request `400 pp, at the bridge between Kodagu and Kerala as resort’s in-house restaurant. trade and culture crossed borders greenery, and open space. Coorg 20-40ft deep and 10ft wide. Their The Windchimes Retreat (Cell: over the years. Through the pass, Golf Links (Tel: 298009; Cell: linear extent is estimated as 500 to 09686976113, 09513331333; Tariff: spices and rice from Kodagu were 09740260346; Tariff: `3,000; TE) at 600 miles in ancient times. Although `4,500-7,500 + breakfast; TE) at exchanged for salt from Kerala, Spring Valley Annexe, Bittangala, traces of these kadangas can be found, Manjunatha Estate, Heggala Road, resulting in the subsequent has six rooms (open only to members most have disappeared due to is set in the hills of Virajpet on a transmigration of culture. The open and their guests) a restaurant, a intensive land use. Admire the sunset 50-acre estate; the resort offers a shrines of Kodagu acquired the snooker table and bridge as additional over Soma Male, visit the Balamuri Chimes standard room and Wind typical Kerala roof and the rain god recreation. The conference hall can Ganesha temple or trudge up to the room, both with king-size panel Igguthappa, with his brothers and be booked through members. Bhagavathy temple, 2km from town. beds, balcony, wardrobe, leather sister, crossed the hills from Kerala to The annual festival at the Bhagavathy sofa and bathroom. Amenities Kodagu. You can trek to the pass to arounds temple, usually on March 21-24, include minibar, tea/coffee maker, see the green hills of Kerala gradually culminates with the priest going into LED TV and iron. stretching out on one side while Kadanga (10km) a trance and performing twelve Chomakund, Hanging Rock, Kabbe Kadanga serves as a vital link to different dances around the temple. Chelavara Falls (22km) Kund, Baliyatra, and Baliyakund Kodagu’s feudal past. The kadangas On March 28, the Choundi Teray A natural waterfall formed by a small loom on the Coorg side. ■ of Kodagu are said to be the most (festival of Chamundi’s spirit) takes ancient war trenches known in the place and three chosen persons world, mentioned in stone become channels of the deities. inscriptions dating back to 888 and During the teray, similarly attired #Awesomekarnataka have existed long before the use of and face-painted like Kerala’s fortifications. The town is named Theyyam, they get possessed by the after these war trenches, which were three gods and become oracles as

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honey producer in South-East Asia. Karnataka after Mullaiyanagiri in the But a chance virus wiped out the Baba Budan Range. Thadiyendamol resident bee population. What you lures trekkers with the promise of a lose on the swings, you gain on the glimpse of the coastline. roundabouts. The bee crisis deflected The trek is gentle, but the last 1 attention to something more than quarter is a steep climb. The 2 /2-hr honey — the bountiful nature that climb (one-way) from Palace Estate produced it. Birdwatchers and back (see page 438) is shorter, but the 1 packers realised that there’s more to longer 3 /2-hr climb from Honey Kodagu than Madikeri. They marched Valley Estate (see Where to Stay and through the clouds to rediscover Eat on page 183) passes through thick Thadiyendamol, and the sleepy rainforest and more scenic terrain. Kodava village of Kakkabe in the shadow of the great mountain.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

With a landscape not tarnished by Coca Cola signboards, Kakkabe is fast facts

alamy images / india picture nature’s laboratory. It can transform When to go Kakkabe is accessible The majestic Thadiyendamol peak is the tallest in Kodagu a boring natural science class into throughout the year, but avoid July- an exciting practical tour. It offers August when the rainforest receives interactive modules on the heavy showers and teems with leeches. formation of clouds, the manufacture The post-monsoon months are very KAKKABE of honey, and the process of cross- rewarding for birdwatchers. Ideal cloud-cloaked mountain pollination — with waterfalls, season is between September and May gurgling streams and treks as your Tourist Offices ■ anurag mallick and the rain god Igguthappa, along with break periods. ● KSTDC PRIYA GANAPATHY his siblings, migrate from Kerala to The rainforest cover gives the Hotel Mayura Talakavery Kodagu. Soon after, the sky darkened. region a rich bounty of rare orchids, Virajpet-Talakaveri Road, hadiyendamol stood tall. For Igguthappa had smiled; he brought plants and birds. Scenic treks take Bhagamandala, Kodagu centuries, he had been the rain. A Malabar whistling thrush, his you to Mallamma Betta, Soma Male Tel: 08272-243143 Tlone sentinel, towering over blue-black coat ruffled, was caught and Kabbe Pass, from where you can Cell: 08970650030 lesser peaks and serving as a landmark unawares by the fat drops of rain. see clouds caressing Kerala’s hills. ● Office of the Assistant Director to seafarers. The tallest peak in Thadiyendamol had covered himself Department of Tourism Kodagu, on a clear day he could see in a giant white cloak and disappeared Thadiyendamol Stuart Hill, Madikeri, as far as the coast. Over time, he had from view.... Now it is just you, the There’s something awe-inspiring Kodagu seen spices from Kodagu being amplified sounds of a rainforest about the name itself. Derived from Tel: 08272-228580 (AD Office) exchanged for salt from Kerala. He come alive and a faint mountain Malayalam to loosely mean ‘I’m the Cell: 09448004466 (TO) had observed also the subsequent trail, with no end in sight. Tallest’ (thadi means broad, yenda is Cell: 09844535509, 08073829204 exchange of culture. How the open Not too long ago, this little village mine and mol is top), Thadiyendamol, (DTC) shrines of Kodagu acquired the in the heart of the south-west Kodagu at 5,730ft, is the highest peak in STD code 08272 typical Kerala roof. And he watched rainforest used to be the largest Kodagu and the second highest in

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Photographs: anurag mallick 1 Igguthappa Temple temple is 2 /2km from Kakkabe. Get Whoever said ‘there’s no such thing onto the road to Madikeri. Take a left as a free lunch’, has obviously not under the arch. After a kilometre, been to the Igguthappa Temple. Not take a right to the temple. only are you handed prasad on a ◆ Timings 6am-2pm, 6pm-7pm Puja platter, you are given a three-course timings 6am-12.30pm meal of payasam, rice and two types of sambhar with wild mango pickle Nalknad Palace to boot (1pm to 2pm). Worshipped Built in 1792 by Doddaveeraraja, as ‘one who gives grain’ (iggu is Nalknad Palace served as the royal Kodava for ‘grain’, thappa means ‘to hunting lodge and summer home of give’), Igguthappa is the de facto rain the Kodava kings. Since there were god. Such are his powers that he has four villages in the vicinity, the place expanded his portfolio to include was called Nal-nadu, a Kodava word, any wish that you may ask for — an which over time got shortened to engineering degree, a child, or the Nalknad. Call it what you will, a girl of your dreams! Thousands palace it isn’t. A double-storey gather for the Kaliyarchi Festival in structure with a conical roof, the March when the god is taken on a decrepit building has intricate procession to the top of Mallama wooden friezes and wall murals. The Betta and reinstalled in the temple, local Kapala tribals — they are An ornate structure next to Nalknad Palace; worship of rain god Igguthappa followed by ceremonial dances. The originally believed to be from official date of the harvest festival Ethiopia — were brought here by the WHERE TO STAY AND EAT offer and the odd Continental Huthri is also determined here. The king from Kerala to look after (pala) breakfast thrown in. Lunch (`200) on the palace. Located on the road to Palace Estate (Cell: 09483198446, request. Misty Woods (Tel: 08272- 1 Virajpet, 3 /2km from Kakkabe, the 09880447702; Tariff: `3,600-4,300 238561; Cell: 09448406405; Tariff: palace is quite neglected, with just a +breakfast, dinner and tea/coffee) at Cottage `7,000-11,000 +breakfast and caretaker to look after it. He’ll let you Kakkabe Post stands on a flat patch dinner) is located on a lush 100-acre into the palace. Entry is free. just above the 18th century Nalknad estate with two waterfalls. Well-spaced Palace; the estate offers a spectacular cottages in three categories — the getting there Rock climbing and treks view. This converted wooden granary Mansion House, Vernacular Styled Air Nearest airport: Mangaluru Airport A 1-hr walk to Nilakandi Waterfall, on pillars has a porch to prop your Cottages, Fairytale Cottages — offer (172km/ 5 hrs) and Bengaluru (260km/ 3km away, is one of the shorter treks. feet up and soak in the views of 21 rooms built aesthetically using 8hrs). Bengaluru is well connected to Apart from barking deer, pangolin Kodagu’s rolling hills. The homestay clay bricks and wood, large bedrooms most other cities in India and also and the flying squirrel, it’s a good can accommodate up to 18 people. and swanky attached baths. They abroad. Taxi charge `9-16 per km place to spot the honey-loving South The 50-acre farm, located on the edge have an Ayurveda centre, a huge Rail Nearest railhead: Mysuru (127km/ Indian marten. There are many other of a forest, grows coffee, cardamom, thatched gazebo, and a restaurant 3hrs). Taxis charge `9-16 per km routes of varying difficulty. Suresh pepper, silk and bananas. Endowed serving Kerala, Coorg, North Indian, Road Take the road from Bengaluru via Chengappa of Honey Valley Estate with an exceptionally wide range of and Chinese cuisine. Srirangapatnam-Hunsur-Kushalnagar- has marked out 28 of them. Palace native trees, flowers and birds, Palace Coorg Coffee Country (Cell: Madikeri-Napoklu Nad-Virajpet road for Estate has the ideal terrain for Estate also has a wild mountain 09686401945; Tariff: `3,200-4,250 about 31km to reach Kakkabe trekking, streams and a 50ft waterfall. stream. There’s farm-fresh fruit, +meals) at Palace Road has 16 rooms Guides are available. organic coffee and Kodagu cuisine on spread across a riverside villa and

182 Karnataka Karnataka 183 Kodagu KAKKABE

gold paddy fields. It has 10 double around Kodavas: An unusual race rooms. Home-cooked Kodava food adds a special touch. Nadikeriyenda Ainmane, Karada Kodavas or Coorgs, the natives of Kodagu, adage goes that ‘a Kodava is born with a The Tamara Coorg (Tel: 238000, (23km) form a tight knit society that fiercely gun in one hand and a hockey stick in the Bengaluru reservations 080- About 11km from Kakkabe, Karada is guards its unique customs and traditions. other’. They have martial dances and are 71077700; Cell: 09739833939; known for its spectacular ain-mane With their origins shrouded in mystery, the exempted from the Arms Act since the Tariff `14,000-`18,000 +breakfast; (traditional ancestral home) of the Kodavas have intrigued historians and British days, thus permitting them to own TE) is at Kabbinakad Estate, Nadikeriyenda family. The turn anthropologists alike – from theories of a firearm within Coorg without a licence. Yavakapadi village. Part of its through the arch takes you 1km Greek or Indo-Scythian ancestry and links They have a distinctive traditional charm is the 4km drive off the inside to what is considered one of to Kurdistan and Arabia (their sash and costume; men wear a kupya (black main road to the resort past hairpin Kodagu’s best preserved ancestral dagger is very similar to Yemen and the wraparound robe) and chaley (brocaded bends. Running through a private homes with a typical inner courtyard Omani khanjar). The Puranas refer to this red silk sash) with a ‘check vastra’ 181-acre coffee plantation on a and profusely carved doorway and land as Krodadesa while the Kodavas (chequered red headscarf). Kodava fenced 8-acre patch landscaped windows. The road then forks to a consider themselves as children blessed women have a unique sari drape, done with exotic plants, the 5-star resort gorgeous viewpoint. by Goddess Kaveri (thought to be derived toga-style with the pleats tucked at the offers plush wood-panelled Balinese from kod, ‘to give’ and avva or ‘mother’). back and the pallu taken over the front cottages on stilts with a balcony. Where to Stay and Eat Being animists and ancestor right shoulder. Formerly knotted, it is There are 56 rooms across 29 villas. Keemalekad Estate (Cell: 099806 worshippers, they maintain devarakadus today clasped with an ornamental brooch. Elevation, the spa set in a beautiful 66766; Tariff: `1,400-1,750pp) at (sacred groves) and offer meedi (ritual The unusual style commemorates the 140-year-old Subedar Bungalow, Karada Village offers a rustic eco- offering) to their karona (ancestors). legend of River Kaveri’s swift currents offers signature coffee therapy and adventure experience. Apart from Weddings and ceremonies are marked that are believed to have turned their sari other anubhavas (experiences) and the traditional Kodagu non-veg by the absence of priests, officiated pleats backwards. has a Yoga Temple designed like the dishes, Keemale’s menu offers instead by elders. Kodavas have Kodavas speak a dialect known as sanctum sanctorum of a temple. organically grown, local vegetarian characteristic names, including a Kodava thakk and use the Kannada The resort’s green efforts include an delicacies. Lunch/dinner `300pp. maneypeda (clan name) through which script. Besides Coorg coffee, honey, organic vegetable garden, waste Kabbe Holidays (Cell: they trace their lineage. Historically, oranges and spices, Kodagu is famed for segregation site and in-house 09448976460, 07259278429; Tariff agriculture, sports and war have been its distinct ethnic cuisine, made from Gaushala or cow barn, developed `4,000-4,500 +breakfast) at their prime occupations and their martial locally abundant ingredients like kumme for breeding indigenous livestock Chelavara Village is on a plantation. tradition is reflected in their emblem – the (mushrooms), bemble (bamboo shoot), such as the Malenadu Gidda. With three waterfalls in the area, a overlapping weapons of odikathi (broad termey (ferns), kemb (colocasia) and the note Children below 12 years of age brook, a natural pool and a hike to sword) and peechekathi (dagger). Some legendary pandi (pork) curry seasoned are not allowed at the resort because Kabbe Pass presenting magnificent of the country’s best-known soldiers, like with the local vinegar, kachampuli and of the risky steep terrain. views of Kerala, it is a birdwatcher’s Field Marshall KM Cariappa and General paired with kadambuttu (steamed rice paradise and an ideal base for nature KS Thimayya, are from Coorg. A popular dumplings) or akki otti (rice roti). For more, see Kakkabe Accommodation lovers. The cuisine is a scrumptious Listings on pages 438-439 spread of Coorgi dishes. ■ two deluxe and semi-deluxe blocks. enthusiasts. King’s Cottage (Cell: Honey Valley (Tel: 238339; Cell: 09567270165, 09845963883; Tariff 08197444939; Tariff: `550-3,950; `3,600 +breakfast and dinner) in the #Awesomekarnataka TE) is located in the Honey Valley Palace Estate area, nestles amongst Estate. The 56-acre farm is popular forested hills and coffee plantations with families, nature and adventure and overlooks carpets of green and

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National Park makes for a truly catcher, Malabar pied hornbill, thrilling experience. golden-backed parakeet, southern The creation of Nagarhole tree pie, grasshopper warbler, National Park can be traced to the orphean warbler, yellow-billed bab- notification of a 285 sq km game bler, green imperial pigeon and the reserve in 1955, which included the white-bellied woodpecker. reserve forests of Arkeri, Hatgat, and Nalkeri in Kodagu. In 1974, reserve forests from Mysuru district were added and it was upgraded to the status of a National Park in 1998. Though the park was renamed after the late Rajiv Gandhi, it is still called fast facts by its popular name, Nagarhole . When to go November to February is Interspersed with the forests are ideal weather, though animals flock to swampy areas called hadlus the watering holes in the dry summer dominated by grasses — grazing season, so chances of sightings grounds for many herbivores. increase significantly. Sprouting grass in the meadows Tourist/Wildlife/ Forest Dept Offices attract elephants and gaur in large ● Conservator of Forest and Field numbers besides sambar, Indian Director

shutterstock muntjac, mouse deer, four-horned Project Tiger Tigers at the Nagarhole National Park antelope, wild boar, crested porcupine Rajiv Gandhi NP/ Nagarhole Tiger and black-naped hare. Leopards can Reserve be found along the fringes. Other Forest Campus carnivores include jungle cat, dhole Hunsur Nagarhole NATIONAL PARK (Asiatic wild dog), striped hyena, and Tel: 08222-252041 call of the wild jackal. The resident primates include W Nagarhole tigerreserve.com the common langur and bonnet ● Office of the Assistant Director ■ anurag mallick and park and finally meets the Kabini, macaque, sloth bear, pangolin, giant Department of Tourism PRIYA GANAPATHY the largest river draining the forest. A squirrel, flying squirrel, giant fruit Stuart Hill, Madikeri, dam built on the Kabini has created bat and the elusive slender loris. Kodagu nce an exclusive hunting a splendid lake south of the park, Watch a red flameback wood- Tel: 08272-228580 preserve of the Maharajas of which separates it from Bandipur pecker busily chip away at a tree Cell: 09448004466 (TO), 09844535509, OMysuru, Nagarhole is today Tiger Reserve. To the southeast lies and slow down to strain your ears 08073829204 (DTC) the beacon of conservation as the the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, and identify birdcalls from a forest ● KSTDC hub of two of India’s most reputable while to the west, coffee plantations cacophony of squawks, hoots and Hotel Mayura Valley View wildlife schemes — Project Elephant separate the park from the Brahmagiri twitters. The diversity of Nagarhole Near Raja’s Seat, Stuart Hill, and Project Tiger. Situated in the Wildlife Sanctuary. Such proximity ’s vegetation has resulted in a wide Madikeri Deccan Plateau, it also forms an to wildlife buffers and gently variety of birds. Spot the red spur- Cell: 08970650028 integral part of the Nilgiri Biosphere sloping landscape with shallow fowl, grey junglefowl, blue-faced STD code Hunsur 08222 Reserve. The Nagarhole river, literally valleys makes Nagarhole a top wild malkhoa, the yellow-browed bulbul, Madikeri 08272 ‘Serpent Stream’ winds through the getaway. Spotting a tiger at Nagarhole white-cheeked barbet, Nilgiri fly-

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shutterstock Nagarhole also has owl species buffer zones), the park offers great such as the short-eared owl, Oriental sighting opportunities as a 30m area scops owl, and spot-bellied eagle on either side of the forest tracks is owl. Sometimes, a drive down the regularly cleared of vegetation, Nagarhole Main Road is more allowing an unobstructed view. enriching than a foray into its trails However, the tourism zone covers with tuskers frequently spotted by only a small patch of 30 sq km and the roadside. the Forest Department’s wildlife safari is in a 20-seater canter that THINGS TO SEE AND DO barely lasts over an hour. u Entry fee: `250 Timings: 6am-8am, Wildlife safari 2.30pm-4pm Safari Forest Dept bus Nagarhole is perhaps one of the Adult: `500, Child/Student `250 finest remaining habitats of the Asian Camera: `200-400; JLR Contact Elephant in India. Huge herds amble Veeranahosalli and Nanchi Gate, down in the summer months, which Cell 09632566454 is an excellent time to watch them in their element. Nagarhole is worth Whitewater rafting visiting in the dry season, when wild The advent of monsoons in Kodagu animals are spotted in large numbers brings the additional thrill of white near sources of water. Spread over water rafting in the KKR or Upper An elephant family holds its ground in the face of advancing tourist vehicles 640 sq km (combining core and Barapole river, not far from the Nagarhole National Park. Since the the only lodging available inside the secluded homestay set in a 30-acre A Gaur spotted at Nagarhole Barapole river is rain-fed, the gushing park, daytime and weekends are plantation just 2km from the forest, waters last for three to four months noisy with tourists and vehicles. and has four spacious rooms with after mid-June till November. Mornings and evenings are magical en suite bathrooms. Home-made u Contact Southern River Adventures with the jungle coming alive with fresh food includes Kodava cuisine. Cell: 09845514122 chirping birds and alarm calls. Bison Manor Country Retreat For bookings, contact DCF (Cell: 08277455379, 09900700768; Where to stay and eat Hunsur or Chief Wildlife Warden, Tariff: `3,400-4,030, tents `1,400pp, Bengaluru Tel: 080-23345846. dorm `1,200pp) at New Grand Forest Guest House (Cell: Tiger Teak (Cell: 09900652459, Estate, Kutta, is a boutique country 09844204083; Tariff: `1,600-2,000, 08861736831; Tariff: `1,500-2,000 jungle retreat 5km from Nagarhole . full dorm: `2,400 +entry charges) at +breakfast, dinner) at Begoor Village, It offers nine rooms (standard and Nagarhole Tourist Complex, inside Nagarhole Road, Nalkeri Forest, is a deluxe), besides a dorm and tent. the forest. simple, fully furnished homestay The Hornbill multi-cuisine restaurant The Forest Department guest with good views from the balcony. serves veg and non-veg fare from house gives you a chance to stay Bring your own snacks and South Indian, North Indian, and where all the action is. The forest beverages. note Under renovation. Chinese cuisines. The property lodges are located on a patch next Spice Glade (Cell: 09945274533, features a playground and terrace, to the information centre-cum- 09880218048; Tariff: `3,900-4,300 with lots of greenery around the booking office. The food here is +breakfast, dinner) at Kutta, south coffee estate. Trekking and wildlife basic vegetarian fare. Though it is Kodagu, is a picturesque and nicely safaris are arranged on request. anurag mallick

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Courtesy KADAMA KOLLI RESORT Machan Wilderness Lodge (Cell: offer a great view of the surrounding 08970335544; Tariff `6,600- plantation. There are 12 rooms in a 8,260+all meals) at Nagarhole choice of twin cottages with rustic Churicad, K Badaga village, interiors and modern bathroom and Srimangala, is tucked away in the multilevel cabin rooms with separate middle of a coffee estate. Its tastefully entrances and sitouts. Vana designed rooms are built with restaurant serves local Coorgi and minimum ecological footprint and South Indian fare and offers a 360-degree view of the estate. The Library Lounge comes with an indoor fireplace and wildlife tales of the national park adorning the walls, besides freshly brewed filter coffee and cold pressed juices served. getting there Safaris, bonfires and barbecues are Air Nearest airport: Kannur International organised on request. Airport, Kerala (112km/1-2 hrs), Bajpe Narikadi Estate (Cell: Airport, Mangaluru (250km/5-6hrs); Taxi 09845134464; Tariff: `3,400 from Kannur to Nagarhole NP costs +breakfast and dinner) at Kutta `1,500-2,000; KSRTC bus fare `100- stands at the edge of the sanctuary The Kadama Kolli Resort is great for big groups of friends or extended families 250; from Mangaluru, KSRTC Volvo bus on Kutta main road and offers six fare is `450-570 spacious rooms offering simple Veeranahosahalli, Hunsur Taluk, is is on the northern fringes of Rail Nearest railhead: Mysuru (130 km/ comfort, and pet-friendly ambience set in a 40-acre mango orchard. This Nagarhole and stands right at the 2-3 hrs) is well connected to all major with homely food. The Kadama eco-friendly resort offers a mix of entrance to the park, making it cities. Bus from Mysuru to Kutta costs Kolli Resort (Cell: 09481101158, AC luxury suites and adobe-style vibrant with plant and animal life. `150. From Kutta (7km) to Nagarhole 09341101158; Tariff: `6,500 cottage clusters spread across green Open-top jeep safaris, eco-tours, by auto costs `100-200. Taxi fare from +breakfast and dinner) at Parakatageri lawns, each with verandah, treks, campfires, film show, coracle Mysuru to Nagarhole is `3,000-4,000 (Pookola) village and post office, bedrooms fitted out with woven rides and fishing can also be Road Take the Mysuru highway bypass 12km from Birunani town, is a furniture sourced from Thailand arranged. The accommodation via Ranganathittu onto SH-88 and after scenic getaway in the foothills of and Indonesia, a courtyard and comprises 10 double rooms (six Hunsur turn towards Nagarhole via Brahmagiri. It has five independent open-to-sky bathrooms. Lagoon regular and four large standard); 6 Murkal and Veeranahosahalli. The road cottages and two independent suites fringe a 6-acre lake, with Swiss tented cottages to fit four closes after sunset. The nearest town is houses. The cottages can take four islands of mango trees. The multi- persons; and four family rooms/ Kutta (7km) on the southern fringe of persons in each comfortably, while cuisine restaurant dishes out local dorms. Food is served only at the the park while Hunsur is 45km away the independent houses can fit 12 Mysuru delicacies, Indian, Chinese Gudara, a spacious thatched hut. and Gonikoppal 40km. The drive takes people each, making it great for and Continental. Besides jungle They also run the rustic Sundara about 5-6 hrs from Bengaluru. Bus from groups and families looking for a safaris, activities include zipline, Vana Farmstay near Hunsur that Mysuru (130km/2-3 hrs), KSRTC buses digital detox. Activities include paintball, jumarring, board games, accommodates up to 20 people. ply regularly on these routes. Fare: jungle gym, whitewater rafting and swimming, cycling et. Chilligeri Estate (Tel: 08274- KSRTC/ private buses `150-200; bus herpetology walks and workshops. Jungle Inn (Tel: 08222-246022; 244265; Cell: 09448582496, fare from Bengaluru (250km/5-6hrs) is JLR King’s Sanctuary (Cell: Cell: 09902363906; Tariff: `2,500- 09845803904; Tariff `1,900pp `300-400 09449597878, 09449599796; Tariff: 3,500) at 19th km, Hunsur- +breakfast, dinner, tea, snacks), at `6,280-8,496pp +all meals) at Nagarhole Road, Veeranahosahalli, Manchalli, near Kutta, is named

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anurag mallick after the pepper vines abounding on AROUNDs the plantation and the picturesque Brahmagiri mountain range forming Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary, a backdrop. Chilligeri is a century- Wayanad (8km) old cottage set on a 100-acre Wildlife enthusiasts can hop across plantation of coffee, pepper, betel the state border from Karnataka to nut, and banana. Alluring with red- Kerala, just a few kilometres south of roof tiles and red-oxide floors, the Kutta. Jeeps and guides can be cottage has standard rooms for arranged to take you to the Tholpetty families and couples, besides an Forest Range of the Wayanad Wildlife outhouse or family cottage for five Sanctuary. Cost for the jeep hire adults. The lovely garden and from Nagarhole and the guide fee fabulous view of the Brahmagiri are negotiable; however, if you have range from your window are other your own vehicle, drive through the highlights. Foodwise, there is ethnic elephant migratory corridor to cuisine and exotic homemade wines. Thirunelly temple at the base of the Activities include trekking, visit to Brahmagiri Hill and Wildlife tea garden, safaris at Nagarhole Sanctuary nearby. National Park, and Tholpetty u Timings 7am-10am and 3pm-5pm. Wildlife Sanctuary. Contact Asst. Wildlife Warden, Tholpetty, Tel: 04935-250853 The beautiful Irpu Falls are at their picturesque best right after the monsoons Irpu Rameshwara Temple Irpu Falls (15km) Irpu Rameshwara Temple (14km) the Lakshmana Teertha, extinguished The beauty of Irpu Falls is heightened The Ishwara Temple is also known as the fire and blessed its waters with after the rains, when the rainforest is Irpu Rameshwara Temple, as it is the power to absolve a person of his glossy green and the 51.8m cascade believed that Lord Rama consecrated sins. Some believe it was Lakshmana’s becomes a raging torrent. A visit at the Shiva linga. The story goes that tears of regret that became the any other time of the year could be a Rama and Lakshmana were returning Lakshmana Teertha. To sanctify the tad disappointing. Scarcely 1km from victorious from Lanka and crossing spot, Rama instructed Hanuman to the Ishwara Temple, the well marked- over the Brahmagiri Hills from Kerala get a linga from Kashi. When out trail to the falls winds past a to Kodagu, when Lakshmana felt a Hanuman didn’t return as the sacred banyan tree before sudden surge of anger. He handed appointed hour drew near, Rama disappearing into the forest to the his bow and quiver to Rama and shaped a linga out of mud and he Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary. Along stomped off; but oddly, the moment was about to consecrate it, when the walk from the Ishwara Temple to he stepped into Kodava land, his Hanuman arrived. Irpu, spot colourful birds and anger dissipated. Upset that Rama had doubted brilliantly hued butterflies. Endemic Rama explained to his brother him, Hanuman wrapped his tail to the Western Ghats, the Malabar that Kerala’s earth could incite around a mountain in anger, but banded peacock, common banded passions while Kodagu bestowed Rama pacified him by shooting an peacock, and Paris peacock can be calmness. A remorseful Lakshmana arrow and proclaiming that the Kashi seen here. Located near Kurchi shot an arrow into Brahmagiri and linga would be installed wherever the village, Irpu is 7km from Kutta, and threatened to consign himself to the arrow landed. He further decreed 9km from Srimangala. flames that shot forth. Rama created that the temple at Permad would anurag mallick

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shutterstock have more significance than the place could turn even brothers into Ishwara Temple at Irpu. Hanuman enemies. Kodavas believe that when was calmed, but the imprint of his siblings fight in Coorg, it is because tail was left forever on of this curse. It is customary to pay Hanumantabetta. Irpu in Sanskrit your respects at the Irpu temple means ‘enemies’, hinting that the before taking a dip in the Lakshmana Teertha. The temple has a low shikhara and a circular garbha griha in Bode Namme: South Kerala style, with shrines of Gandharva, Bhairava, Mahadeva, Coorg’s tribal fest Ganapathi, and Parvathi. An About 7km after Nagarhole lies the town inscription dated 1763 marks the of Kutta. Legend has it that the goddess renovation of the temple and records Kali came and settled with the low-caste the legend of Rama. Kurubas, and had a child. She called him Kutta and the place where he was born Where to Stay was named after him. A festival is Ramcad Estate Guest House (Cell: celebrated every year in Mid-April to 09448144982; Tariff `1,800pp May in honour of the Kurubas all over +meals) near Irpu Falls is a lovely South Coorg. Called the Bode Namme, homestay on a 40-acre coffee and festival, it always starts on a Tuesday pepper plantation. It has been named and is a time when Kuruba men dress up as Ram’s Forest (Ram Cad). The A Nilgiri langur spotted at Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary in loud garish clothes as women, go homely place offers five cottages that begging for alms, drink themselves silly can accommodate three people in Falls, is an ochre-coloured homestay sanctuary is contiguous with the and sing bawdy songs. In this fortnight of each and around 15 to 20 people in that has a wide choice of Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary in Kerala revelry, tribals are literally found littered total. There’s a separate dining facility accommodation — four standard and a forested corridor punctuated across the landscape, rather sloshed or in each of the cottages. rooms, two deluxe rooms (for 3 pax), by coffee plantations connects it to passed out due to exhaustion. However, Tropical Blooms (Cell: and two family rooms for eight Wayanad and Nagarhole . refined Kodavas steer clear of this 09008163304, 09448475222; Tariff: people. There’s a restaurant serving The evergreen forests are dense chaotic festival, often packing their `3,000, dorm `2,500pp +all meals) home-cooked Indian and local and moist with very little light children indoors as soon as they hear on MN Irpu Road lies in the foothills dishes, indoor and outdoor games, a streaming in through the canopy. the crazy trumpets in the distance. of the Brahmagiri range and offers plantation trek, duck pond, and The forests abound with gaur, sloth elegant premium rooms and dorms, 24-hrs power backup. bear, elephant, barking deer, tiger, a cosy lounge stocked with books, leopard, jungle cat, primates like TV in common areas and a dining Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary lion-tailed macaque, bonnet room where buffet North Indian, (110km) macaque, and the Nilgiri langur, South Indian and local fare are Spread over 181 sq km, the Brahmagiri besides the Nilgiri marten or chinge- served. The sprawling lawn is great Wildlife Sanctuary stretches in a wide kooli, and the elusive slender loris. for campfires and barbecues with arc from Kutta to Makutta. The The area is great for birdwatching great hill views all around. diverse habitat ranges from lowland and butterflies. The best time is Sherlock’s Jungle Retreat (Cell: rainforests in Makutta Wildlife Range October to May. Stop by at the 09591762383; Tariff: `4,200+ to high-altitude shola-grasslands in Reserve Forest Office at Srimangala breakfast), located 400m from Irpu the Srimangala Wildlife Range. The before taking the diversion to Irpu to

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Courtesy WIKIMEDIA COMMONS Where to Stay nature walks etc. Many of the staff Inspection Bungalow (Tel: 08274- have worked here for decades. As 246331; Cell: 09611758153; Tariff: per records, their forefathers came `1,500 + entry charges are applicable to these plantations in the 1890s here) near Srimangala Range Forest from Tamil Nadu and Ceylon as Office, Srimangala labour for British planters. At Glenlorna, you can see third Permad (18km) generation labourers who migrated About 8km from Irpu is the Permad from Sri Lanka, erstwhile Ceylon. temple. Lord Rama’s legendary arrow shot from Irpu landed here and Mrityunjaya Temple Badagarakeri became the spot where the linga that A very unique Shiva shrine located at Hanuman brought from Kashi was Badagarakeri (14km from T consecrated. Rama further conceded Shettigeri). The temple is very that Hanuman’s Shiva Temple at popular with locals. Shiva is Permad would rank higher than the worshipped here as Mrityunjaya or Ishwara Temple at Irpu. Even today the ‘One who conquered Death.’ during Mahashivratri, before the It is said that the Churning of the puja commences at Irpu, a puja is Cosmic Ocean yielded the medicine performed a day prior at Permad. god Dhanvantari, the goddess of wealth Lakshmi, Kalpavriksha, the Glenlorna Tea Estate is a rare jewel in the predominantly coffee country of Kodagu Glenlorna Tea Estate (Tel: 080- Tree of Wishes, amrita (divine nectar), 23570761; Cell: 09481610695; Tariff: and other gifts. While the devas and avoid backtracking for permissions. trek from the Forest Rest House leads `6,000-8,000+ breakfast) at Hudikeri asuras fought over the spoils, no one After a written permission, guides to the highest point in the range, the In a land known for coffee, it is dared touch the vicious poison accompany you to the Forest Rest Brahmagiri peak (1,740m). From astonishing to see vast swathes of halahala. It was so toxic that even its 1 House on Brahmagiri’s summit. there, a 2 /2km trek leads to Munikal tea plantation. Glenlorna is the only fumes were lethal. (literally ‘Sage Rock’), the Kannada tea plantation in Kodagu with a Lord Shiva drank the poison, The 4km trek from Irpu Falls (2-3 name for Pakshipathalam. It is said 50-year-old bungalow run as a which turned his throat blue and hrs) leads to the Forest Rest House at that the ancient caves were the plantation stay by Tata Coffee’s Ama thus he earned the name Neelkanth Narimalaibetta, from where Narimala meditation spot for sages. The deep Plantation Trails. With five sprawling (Blue-Throated One). Since Shiva 1 Peak is a 1 /2km trek. The mountain valley is an excellent birdwatching rooms, the lone tea bungalow is had conquered certain death, he also literally means ‘Tiger Hill’, as tigers site. Return the same way or hike located past Birunani and usually came to be called Mrityunjaya. used to inhabit the area. The basic 7km downhill to Thirunelli and offered as a whole unit to groups People come to this temple to pray two-room Forest Rest House is come back to Irpu via Kutta. (max 13 people). Activities include for a long life. equipped with a kitchen, so pick u Entry fee `150 Trekking fees `200 cycling, factory visit, tea picking, u Puja timings Starts at 10.30am ■ supplies beforehand. See the imprint Guides `500 of what is believed to be Hanuman’s Tip Permits For trekking or stay at tail on Hanumantabetta. From the Narimalaibetta, contact Srimangala FRH, about ½km along the path to Forest Office, Forest Range Office, #Awesomekarnataka the right, two signboards indicate near bus stop Wildlife Range, treks to the Brahamagiri range and Srimangala, Tel: 08274-246331 the Munikal Caves. The 5km return Cell: 09611758153

196 Karnataka Karnataka 197 Coastal Karnataka Restock your treasury of holiday memories with surfing, beachcombing and culinary temptations of a high order Coastal Karnataka Route Planner

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doesn’t matter if you don’t know in the plethora of commercial any of the local languages, you’ll establishments around town. discover that most of the If you are doing the scenic thing Mangaluruans are quite friendly and and driving down to the coast, the will come forward to help you find waving coconut palms and the your way around. towering areca nut trees that frame As can be observed in any other lush green paddy fields are the first place in India, religion is deeply indication that the topography is enmeshed with life in Mangaluru as about to change. That is, if you well. For the pious, no amount of haven’t already begun to feel the perspiration in this humid city will trickle of sweat down your spine. deter their resolve to pay homage at As befitting a port city, what will the multitudinous places of worship strike you the most about Mangaluru that this district offers. is the veritable babble of languages The beautiful Milagres Church that you hear all around you all the in downtown Hampankatta, built in time — Tulu, Kannada, Konkani,

prashant panjiar 1680, was razed to the ground by English, even the odd snatches of Mangaluru's beaches are great for spending leisure time with your loved ones Tipu Sultan in the 18th century. Malayalam — all which commingle Though it was rebuilt, a hundred in the salty air to give Mangaluru its years later, the church collapsed due distinct sense of otherness. to structural reasons and was rebuilt Mangaluru and modelled, this time, along the Coastal Montage lines of St. Peter’s in Rome. For those with more earthly ■ BY ARCHANA RAI alternating between a relaxed coastal impulses, the thought of the lip- with SAIRA MENEZES town ambience and the hectic pace smacking kane and bangude fry, or fast facts of a 21st century urban landscape. the pleasures of plunging tired ou’d think that cosmopolitan A coastal province, it has been bodies in the waters off lovely Ullal When to go September to February is cities are a thing of the 20th split into two districts — Dakshina Beach are inducement enough. the ideal time to head for the coast, Ycentury, but Mangaluru might Kannada, with Mangaluru as its There are a string of restaurants when fish is plentiful, temperatures just prove you wrong. Caught premier city, which is more ‘Catholic’ serving seafood delicacies that are benign and the sea absolutely between the salty kisses of the breeze than any other in Karnataka; and just other-worldly. delightful. Summers are hot and humid. from the Arabian Sea and tremulous Udupi, the seat of the Dvaita branch There are no prizes for guessing with the fragrances from the bio of Hinduism. The nearby town of that it was the Jesuit priests in the Tourist Office geographical riches of the Western Moodabidri hosts a rich tradition of 17th century who fashioned the ● Office of the Assistant Director Ghats, back in the day this charming Jainism, making this place a blend ethos that still rule this quirky city Department of Tourism city was considered a cosmopolitan of faiths. Shaped by its coastal on the Karavali Coast. Their Room No. 02, Commercial Complex, town as early as the 10th century. location and history as a major port influence is still visible to this day 1st Floor, Dakshina Kannada, Popular for its exquisite temples, town, the vibrant culture of the — scattered on the name-boards at Mangaluru flourishing industries and sunny people of this city is amply the gates of tiled-roof bungalows on Tel: 0824-2453926 beaches, you’ll find while exploring highlighted through their different the city’s hillsides; in the profusion Cell: 08105472464 (DTC) that this charming city offers an dance forms, handicrafts, cuisines, of its venerable high-steepled STD code 0824 appealing off-beat feel while festivals as well as the rural sports. It churches that dot the cityscape; and

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prashant panjiar ORIENTATION The main beaches in Mangaluru are Tannirubavi (12km), Panambur Mangaluru is a budding conurbation (14km) and Surathkal (17km) to that occupies around 132 sq km of the north, and Someshwar (11km) picturesque space on the far end of to the south. Ullal is a small town the Karnataka Coast. It is the biggest that boasts the popular Someshwar city and railhead here and now Beach. For travel between the features an international airport coastal towns, it is best to take a (18km away at Bajpe) as well. taxi; autos are convenient to move Connected to all major metros, the about in town. It’s best to stay in railway station is about a kilometre Mangaluru and visit these beaches away from the city centre. on a day trip. Only Ullal has a If you’re coming by road, the city staying option in Summer Sands starts where the lush palm groves Beach Resort (see page 442). end near Kankanady. Hampankatta is the city centre, and a large number THINGS TO SEE AND DO of commercial establishments are located here. The KSRTC Bus Stand Mangaluru, it is said, draws its name is at Bejai, 3km north of from the goddess Mangaladevi to Hampankatta. Local buses start from whom a temple was raised by an Painted interiors of the beautiful St Aloysius College Chapel the State Bank, around 1½km south ardent devotee, King Kundavarma, of Hampankatta. back in the 9th century. Religion sky. All the beaches have ubiquitous legend. Built as a mark of piety by dominates this society, whose and grand signboards that warn King Kundavarma on the advice of A sculpture at Sri Mangaladevi Temple economy is primarily agrarian. swimmers about the dodgy sea. That two Nepalese sages, this temple and Exquisite temples like the doesn’t stop Mangaluruans from the Kadri Manjunatha Temple are Manjunatha, Mangaladevi, and enjoying them. Families flock to the closely interlinked in the rituals and Sharavu Ganapathi are a part of the beaches for some boisterous practices they perform. On the nine religious circuit, as is the magnificent picnicking and take home snapshots, days of Navaratri or Dussehra in St. Aloysius College Chapel, with in which everyone is smiling, as October, the Mangaladevi Temple frescoes and oil paintings that souvenirs. In some ways, it seems as comes alive in a grand celebration Mangaluruans are happy to claim as if Mangaluru has gone back to being of the devi. The Swayamvara rivalling those in the Sistine Chapel. a small town, having forgotten its Parvathi puja in the temple is one Those with more secular pursuits in intentions of being a snazzy city that involves young girls doing a mind, however, need not despair — somewhere in the merrymaking of special fast and also receiving long stretches of pristine beaches, a the evening. It’s this heady sanctified holy sandalwood paste golf course, and a variety of water combination of the old and the new from the priest after the ritual puja. sports are all available within 20km that makes Mangaluru such a ◆ Timings 6am-1pm, 4-8pm of Mangaluru city. wonderful and popular destination. Mangaluru is big on beaches, St. Aloysius College Chapel many within easy reach of the city Sri Mangaladevi Temple Located right in the centre of the by a taxi ride. The stretches of sand This eponymous temple on the city, on the campus of St. Aloysius and surf are marked by translucent southern tip of Mangaluru city is College on Light House Hill Road, waters shining under a clear blue fairly humming with myth and this chapel is, indeed, an architectural Photographs by anurag mallick

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DINODIA photo library gem. Built in 1900, it has a series of Phalguni River Lodge paintings that cover every inch of its roof and walls. Primarily frescoes This Jungle Lodges resort, located just painted upon lime-washed walls, outside Mangaluru, is an excellent option the scenes depict the lives of saints for a back-to-nature sojourn. Though it is ranging from St. Thomas to St. John not by JLR tradition attached to anything De Britto. A labour of love by the resembling a national park or sanctuary, Italian artist Brother Antonio Phalguni River Lodge, overlooking the Moscheni, these paintings also river nevertheless makes for an excellent include oils on canvas that were exception to the rule. The USP of the extensively restored by INTACH. lodge is its neighbour and inspiration — ◆ Timings Tuesdays to Sundays Pilikula Nisargadhama — a Karnataka 9.30am-1.30pm; 3pm-5.30pm; state-promoted eco-education and Mondays 9am-12.30pm; 2-4pm. tourism development project. Spread Visitors not allowed during the over 370 acres that’s home to the Pilikula divine service Camera No Lake and a stretch of tropical forest, photography and videography Pilikula features a 165-acre biological inside the Chapel. Guided tours For park that harbours a snake house as well groups every 30 mins. Contact Cell: as over 65 species of free-ranging birds 09740908505 Mr Henry Pereira The facade of Milagres Church is modelled on Rome’s St Peter’s Basilica and tigers, lions, leopards, mouse deer, (Chapel Guide), Tel: 0824-2449749 sloth bears, crocodiles, porcupines, wild Chapel & Museum Tour fee Indians The cathedral, which was desecrated region, it celebrated its centenary boars and elephants in enclosures that `100, foreigners `150 and destroyed by Tipu Sultan, was year in April 2015. On November resemble their natural habitat. There’s rebuilt by the British in 1813 and all 18, 2018, it celebrated 450 years of also an arboretum, Science Park and a Rosario Cathedral those Christians who had survived its hallowed site. heritage centre. Back at the lodge, you The ‘Mother Church’ of the Tipu’s wrath and 15-year exile in have a choice of accommodation in Mangalore Diocese and the city’s Srirangapatna. The cathedral you Milagres Church comfortable AC rooms or suites. oldest cathedral, dating back to see today stands on the site of the Built in 1680, this church was razed 1568, was established by the Portuguese-era ‘Factory Church’ of by Tipu Sultan, who suspected the Portuguese when they first landed 1568. It was Fr Henry Buzzoni who Catholics of Mangaluru of being in Mangaluru and set up a factory was the driving force behind the secretly affiliated with his arch and godowns for storing spices here. rebuilding of the church in 1915. enemy, the British. Rebuilt in 1811, Italian traveller Pietro delle Velle, Its more spacious structure a decade after Tipu’s death, it who arrived in Mangaluru in 1623 replicated the lofty dome of St. collapsed again a hundred years refers to it as the Church of the Holy Peter’s Basilica in Rome and features later. Rebuilt for the second time in Rosary at Bolar, the other two being beautiful stained glass windows, 1911, its frontage is modelled on St. Our Lady of Mercy of Ullal and of while the main altar of Jesus and Peter’s Basilica in Rome. St. Francis of Assisi at Farangipet. Mary has been created with mosaic The royal stone insignia of the king tiles. What is truly breathtaking, Kadri Manjunatha Temple of Portugal dating back to 1568 can however, is an ornate wooden pulpit On the Kadri Hills within Mangaluru be seen at the entrance, testifying to with images of the Evangelists and city, lies the Kadri Manjunatha the changing fortunes and the Mary and Jesus. The first Roman Temple, dating back to 1068CE. enduring faith of the congregation. Catholic church in the Canara Among the oldest Shiva temples in

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peninsular India, it commemorates the legend of Parasurama, whose extreme penance pleased Shiva and who was taught the art of combat getting there by Shiva himself. The caves atop Kadri Hill, on which the temple is Air Mangaluru International Airport at situated, are popularly known as the Kenjar, Bajpe, is 18km/ 45 mins away; it caves of the Pandavas. The is connected to several major airports, Padmasanastha Lokeshwara, a including Bengaluru, Chennai, Mumbai, bronze statue within the temple, is and Hyderabad, among others by Air among the oldest bronze sculptures India, Indigo, and SpiceJet. in the country. Individual shrines to There is a 24hr pre-paid taxi counter Durga and Ganesh flank the main at the airport and KSRTC offers bus temple. Statues of the Buddha and services to the city as well. Lokeshwara adorn the Rail Mangaluru has two main railway Padmasanastha Temple as well. stations: Mangaluru Central Railway Station on Old Kent Road, Sharavu Maha Ganapathi Temple Hampankatta, and Mangaluru Junction In the heart of the city in Sharavu Maha Ganapathi Temple is as much a culture hub as a place of worship Railway Station at Shantinagar, Padil, Hampankatta on GS Road near the on the outskirts of the city. Taxis and State Bank, this temple, dating back spectacular view of sunsets, make Surfing Ashram autos are readily available at both. almost eight centuries, is both a for a pleasant interlude. Drive down There’s something about the wind Bengaluru is connected by the Kannur pilgrimage and a cultural centre. It to the Lighthouse Hill Park for a in your hair, the smell of sea and the Express. Trains for Delhi, Mumbai, and hosts performances of Yakshagana, look at snakes, deer, and many other powerful thrill of riding a wave. The cities in Kerala and Tamil Nadu include the dance drama famous in the fascinating animal friends. It will be surfing ashram in Mangaluru is the Nizamuddin-Trivandrum Rajdhani Canara region. There is no fee for a nice break for the children after a perfect place if you want to learn Express, Mumbai CST-Mangaluru seeing the Talamaddale performance, long, hot day. the sport in a clean and encouraging Junction Express, Malabar Express, which is a narrated drama without environment. Situated in the coastal and Mangaluru West Coast Express. costumed dancers. Revered as a Sulthan Battery village of Mulki, the Ashram Surf Taxis and autos are readily available at deity of great power, Sharabeswara About 6km from Mangaluru city Retreat offers activities like surfing, both rail stations in Mangaluru. Maha Ganapathi is worshipped in centre in Bolur, lie the ruins of an stand-up paddle, kayaking, Road From Bengaluru, take NH-75 via an elaborate festival that marks important 18th century watchtower bodyboarding, jet-ski, meditation, Neelamangla, Kunigal, Channarayaptna Ganesh Chaturthi every year, as built by Tipu Sultan near the scenic yoga and much more. Not quite and Sakleshpur to Mangaluru (7-8 hrs). well as during the Car Festival that Gurpura river. Tipu, who ruled the your usual spiritual experience but Taxis from Bengaluru to Mangaluru begins on Chandramana Ugadi day area from 1782 to his death in 1799, would appeal to those who believe charge `8-20/km Bus KSRTC operates (the Kannadiga New Year) in April. followed on the heels of his father that nature is, indeed, the highest buses from Bengaluru and Mangaluru, Hyder Ali in resisting British power. Their guest rooms offer a starting from 6am, and there is also an Lighthouse Hill Garden occupation in the Canara region. comfortable stay with a homely feel. overnighter; the main KSRTC stand in If you’re thirsting for some cool Built as a blockade to prevent enemy You can surf year-round but the Mangaluru is at Bejai. The city is also evening sea breeze after a sweltering battalions attacking from boats on waves are in best form during the serviced by Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and day of devout genuflection, a drive the Gurpura river, this watchtower months of May-June and September- Andhra Pradesh state buses. up the Kadri Hills is just the ticket. is fashioned like a fort with spaces October. For an additional charge, The hills, with winding roads and marked out to mount cannons. you may also enjoy snorkelling in

208 Karnataka Karnataka 209 Coastal Karnataka MANGALORE the Arabian Sea. Friendly people, popular cashew drink — kajucho delicious food and free wi-fi are sure sorro, distilled quietly at home so, to make you want to return. unfortunately, not freely available. u Contact Mantra Surfing and Lucky is the traveller who gets to Adventure Sports Centre, No. 6-64, sample this brew. Other absolute Kolachi Kambala, Bappanadu, must-tries include macaroons from Mulki, Mangaluru; Cell: City Bakery, gadbad and dilkhush at 09663141146; e-mail: surfsup@ Ideal Ice Cream Parlour, Mangaluru surfingindia.net; W surfingindia.net/ halwa from Komal Sweets in ashram-surf-retreat Hampankatta. Also take back some of Mangaluru’s famous, smoky, dark SHOPPING date palm jaggery.

The cashew tree in Mangaluru is as WHERE TO EAT versatile as the coconut palm. A quick visit to Fernandes Cashew Seafood reigns supreme in this coriander and chillies to make marvai pundi. Factory and you are greeted by the coastal town, and it should not Bunt Cuisine Fiery bangada curry, giant crab masala, fragrance of the nut. There’s also the come as a surprise that they’re dry prawn in coconut and tamarind and the excellent at it. A trip to Mangaluru Just the food alone can be a good enough piece de resistance of Bunt cuisine, kane, Moode; Kadle usli is incomplete without loading up reason for a visit to the Karavali Coast. or lady-fish fry — are other seafood stars. on a lovely meal at any of the Drenched in coconut, spiced with locally Gujje aajadhina is the vegetarian version of numerous restaurants that dot this grown cinnamon, oora munchi or red chilli, a chicken curry spiced with fenugreek and charming city. The fresh morning and with the unmistakable tang of tamarind coconut gratings. Ripe jackfruit lends itself catch is the ticket to heavenly — food cooked by the Bunt community to the Bunt delicacy, pelakayida gatti. The gastronomic delights and one of the epitomises coastal cuisine in all its glory. A pulp is ground to a paste with coconut and best places recommended is Machali lot of it is about meat and fish. As summer rice and the batter steamed within the Restaurant, which true to its name, beckons, steamed rice dumplings are fragrant leaves of the teak tree. The delicate serves the best of the rest when it dipped into a mean clam curry cooked in a gatti is then eaten dipped in the richness of comes to variety and innovation. masala of coconut, mustard, fenugreek, country chicken curry. Ask for their super special Prawn Ghee Roast. Gajalee Seafood Restaurant is another option and it sorpotel, and fish curry rice. Sands Beach Resort at Ullal are is the local favourite. This hilltop Cardamom at The Taj Gateway seafood and local dishes. restaurant is best known for its Hotel has a multi-cuisine menu. crispy batter-fried Bombay Duck, Cellar, located on KS Rao Road, has WHERE TO STAY Tawa Fried Fish and prawn dishes. a bar and is another good option. A wide range of Mangaluru’s For Continental, Chinese and Thai, Mangaluru has ample staying many cuisines are on offer for head for Hotel Moti Mahal o n options catering to various pockets. sampling among its restaurants and Flanir Road. Also try Hotel Ayodhya Advance bookings are necessary in eateries scattered across town. The for authentic vegetarian treats like peak tourist season, approximately Pereira Hotel opposite Government moode and gunda. The speciality at September to June, especially if you Law College serves authentic Oriental Flavours (formerly are travelling in a large group and Catholic food, like sannas, pork Memories of Joanna) in Summer would like to stay in a particular

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prashant panjiar hotel. If you want to stay on the +breakfast), 5 mins from the railway beachside, remember only a couple station on KS Rao Road, has 45 offer sea views. rooms with room service and TV. The Taj Gateway Hotel (Tel: Hotel Navarathna Palace (Tel: 0824-6660420; Tariff: `5,500-18,000 2441104/08, 4261104; Tariff: `1,499- +breakfast; TE) overlooks the 6,000 +breakfast; TE), 5 mins from confluence of the Netravathi and the railway station, has 63 rooms, Gurpura with the sea. Ask for rooms laundry, room service and TV, but facing this stupendous sight. The no restaurant. Poonja International Taj is Mangaluru’s best hotel. Among (Tel: 2440171-86, Cell: 09141955527; the plusher options, Ocean Pearl Tariff: `1,699-5,999 +breakfast; TE), (Tel: 2413800; Tariff: `7,000-7,499 also near the railway station, has +breakfast; TE) in Kodialbail is a 104 rooms, and a travel desk. Hotel pretty good choice. The Verda Srinivas (Tel: 2440061; Tariff: Saffron (Tel: 4255542, Cell: `1,500-3,500 +breakfast; TE), with 09108025400; Tariff: `4,500-7,400 its 50 rooms, is located in the heart +breakfast; TE) is also centrally of town. Hotel Woodlands (Tel: located and offers very decent mid- 2443751-53; Tariff: `1,568-3,300) is range accommodation. Hotel on Bunts Hostel Road, and has 30 Mangalore International (Tel: rooms and a restaurant. 2444860-64; Tariff: `1,500-3,200 One of the oldest resorts on the Worshippers at the Hazrat Madani Dargah at Ullal Karnataka coast, Summer Sands Summer Sands, Ullal Beach Resort (Tel: 2467690-92; piece of cloth from Saudi Arabia. Trust property is the Tannirbhavi Reservations 08861373737; Tariff: Famed for its healing powers, this Beach, a location for various barge- `6,270-23,260 +breakfast, dinner) is dargah, like others of its ilk, draws mounted power projects in the an escape from the bustle of people from all faiths who descend region. Not much frequented by the Mengaluru. The sea off Ullal Beach in droves to observe the Uroos. locals, this stretch of sand can is not great for a swim but there’s a Also visit the Rani Abbakka provide you with a bit of splendid pool in the 15-acre palm grove, plus Fort, built by a Jain queen, at isolation; you’ll have just the spacious cottages. Ranipura. Rani Abbakka is barely faraway silhouettes of cargo ships known outside Dakshina Kannada, docking into the port for company. For more hotels and details, see but is a legend in these parts for Mangaluru Accommodation Listings both successfully rebelling against Someshwar Beach, Ullal (13km) on pages 441-442 her husband, the Raja of Mangaluru, Ullal, in south Mangaluru, has the and retaining Ullal’s independence; most pristine and rocky beach face AROUNDS and also standing up to Portuguese in the Canara region. Jagged rocks rule. The queen landed quite a few overlook the sea, which, however, Ullal (11km) crushing blows on the European most locals consider too rough for The Dargah in this beachtown is invaders, before a massive Portuguese swimming. The great rock that abuts famous for its Uroos Fair, held armada was sent to defeat her. the sea is Someshwar’s main draw, every five years. Built in memory of as are the series of resorts that line the saint Madani, legend has it that Tannirbhavi Beach (12km) this picturesque stretch of sand and he sailed to the Ullal coast on a Abutting the New Mangaluru Port water. The Summer Sands Beach

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shutterstock Sasihithlu Beach (22km) leather ball is offered to the deity White shores, less crowd and clean through the week-long festival. On waters... what more can one want in the final day, men drawn from the a good beach? This little known Bunt community square up against gem, so close to the city, has it all. each other in a night match using To reach here, start your journey the ball that has lain at the feet of from Sasihithlu Village and take the the goddess for the past week. It is a kutcha road passing amidst an acacia tumultuous end to a week of colour, grove. If noisy places are not your pomp and devotion. thing, this beach is the perfect place to kick back and relax. Kateel (30km) Adjacent to the scenic backwaters Kateel, which means ‘waist of the of Nandini and Shambhavi rivers, river’, lends its name to the famed this lovely beach seems almost cut- Kateel Durga Parmeshwari Temple off from the external world. The situated on a small island. About 50 water is shallow and the waves years ago, the temple was a lonely gentle, hence making it the perfect spot, not terribly popular with spot to take children to. November devotees. The turnaround happened to February is the best time to visit, when a storm hit the area around although if you’re a bit adventurous, 1944 and everything was washed Five-minute camel rides are among the attractions of Panambur Beach you should visit from June-August away except the sanctum of the during the monsoons. goddess. Resort offers beach volleyball and sand sculpture contests. The beach boating trips to St. Mary’s Isle. These is also a favourite venue for Team Polali Raja Rajeshwari Temple Venur (36km) are open to non-guests. Trips to St. Mangaluru, which organises kite- (22km) Located on the Moodabidri- Mary’s Isle begin from Malpe Beach, flying festivals every summer. Yet another example of the dominant Belthangadi Road in Dakshina 2 hrs from Mangaluru, and not from Devi cult that rules over the Canara Kannada, this town is known for its the resort. Surathkal Beach (17km) region, the deity in this very ethnic 38ft tall Gomateshwara statue, As you zip up NH17 towards Udupi, of temples is a blazing red-coloured installed on an elevated terrace on Panambur Beach (14km) you’ll pass Mangaluru’s best-kept goddess. A lovely drive from the south bank of the Gurpur river. Drive up NH17 and leave behind secret: Surathkal Beach, which must Mangaluru through winding ghat Sculpted by Janakacharya, the statue Mangaluru’s chemical haze to be a be rated as among the cleanest bits roads, the Polali Temple plays host was commissioned by the Jain ruler part of the congregation on this of coastline on the Karavali. With its to an annual festival that culminates Veera Thimmana IV Ajila in 1604. city’s most visited beach. As entering lighthouse and close proximity to in a football match. Commemorating The town also has eight basadis and the water is risky, you’ll have to the National Institute of Technology, the devi’s feat of annihilating the the Mahadeva Temple. ■ make do with 5-minute-long camel Karnataka, this is a favourite haunt asura by stamping on his head, a Inputs by Parikshit Rao and Aroshi Handu rides here. You may, however, have of Mangaluru’s hip crowd. But to vacate the beach after sunset — remember, swimming here can be there’s a good chance that the police dangerous, so ask the locals before will otherwise chase you away. you jump into the water. You can #Awesomekarnataka District authorities organise carnivals climb up the lighthouse here, built at Panambur, and the festivities in 1972, or lounge on a few benches include boat races, air shows and constructed on the rocks.

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celestial architect Vishwakarma. After Krishna’s demise, the great archer Arjuna placed the statue in Rukmini Vana, where it got buried

fast facts When to go Udupi is at its best during festivals like Holi, Janmashtami (Krishna’s birth) and the biennial Paryayothsava. Held once in two years on January 18, the Paryayothsava marks the handing over of responsibilities to one of the heads of the eight mutts for a two-year turn. Special ceremonies, religious discourses, rathotsava and temple elephant processions take place during festivals. Across the year, Ramanavmi, Narasimha Jayanthi, Krishna The famous Sri Krishna Temple in Udupi Leelothsava, Ganesh Chaturthi, UDUPI Anantha Chaturdashi, Subrahmanya Krishna Consciousness synonymous with Brahmin or sattvik Shashti, Vasantha Puja, Jagarana Seva, vegetarian cuisine (sans onion and Thulasi Puja, Laksha Deepothsava, and garlic) and soon, Udupi ‘pure veg’ Dhanu Puja are celebrated with great ■ anurag mallick and (principle of duality). He established restaurants, tiffin rooms, and cafés pomp in the temple. During Makar PRIYA GANAPATHY the ashta mutts or eight Vaishnava proliferated. Even today, thousands Sankranti, the harvest festival, monasteries and, over time, Udupi throng the Krishna Temple daily for ceremonies go on for eight days. ocated 60km north of became the seat of Madhava a glimpse of the beautiful idol. Mangaluru, Udupi is considered renaissance and the Krishna Bhakti It is said that mother Devaki Tourist Office Lthe holiest of the seven mukti Movement. Few know that Udupi is entreated Lord Krishna to show the ● Office of the Assistant Director sthalas or sacred sites in coastal also considered the birthplace of the childhood pranks that he played on Department of Tourism Karnataka. Blessed by Lord Shiva and masala dosa. Its origin is attributed to his foster mother Yashoda. Krishna Deputy Commissioner Office Complex, sanctified by the great saint the need to feed the mass of pilgrims assumed his child-like form, broke Rajathadri, A-Block, 2nd Floor, Madhavacharya, it is home to the flocking into the temple town with the pots to steal butter and snatched Manipal, Udupi famous Udupi Sri Krishna Temple. something healthy, quick to cook, away the churning rod and rope. Tel: 0820-2574868 (AD) This is where Madhavacharya lived and substantial. Thus, spiced potato Charmed by this infant form, Cell: 08762444986 (DTC) and taught 700 years ago and was added to a plain dosa and the Krishna’s consort Rukmini got a STD code 0820 propounded the Dvaita philosophy masala dosa was born. Udupi became statue of Bala Krishna crafted by the

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Photographs by ANURAG MALLICK in mud. Centuries later, it was dug Lord Krishna came in a boat. The out as a lump of gopichandan (sacred famous Car Street, where devotees yellow earth) and carried off draw the temple chariot during unknowingly by sailors. As the ship festivals, is the hub of all activity. sailed down the west coast, it was While the 800-year-old Sri Krishna hit by a storm near Malpe; the Temple is the star attraction, the sailors cried for help. Madhavacharya, older shrines of Anantheshwara and who was meditating by the sea, Chandramouleshwara stand like waved his bark garment and the sentinels. Every ceremony at the sailors managed to come ashore. In Krishna Temple begins with a visit gratitude, they offered him any to these two temples. valuable item from their laden ship. Today, Udupi is no longer a small Madhavacharya just asked for a sleepy coastal town but a bustling lump of earth and that’s how the hub on Karnataka’s spiritual circuit. idol resurfaced. He installed it in a It serves as a good base to explore temple and began worshipping it; Jain sites like Karkala, Varanga, and the rituals instituted by him are Nallur in the hinterland, Manipal, unchanged to date. The place was Malpe and St. Mary’s Island, besides called Udupi (from udupa, Sanskrit Kundapura and Maravanthe further for boat), referring to the spot where north on the coast.

Statues on Sri Krishna Temple’s spire Things to See and Do The Sri Krishna Temple chariot is drawn by devotees on Car Street during festivals

Enter Car Street through Kanakadasa right hand and a rope in the left, the through a tiny crack in the wall. Road to the Sri Krishna Temple tower only idol of its kind in India. The Pleased by his devotion, Sri Krishna’s with Kanakana Kindi (Kanakadasa’s innocent expression of the idol is statue is believed to have swivelled window) below it. To the right is attractive. Next to it is the sacred fire around to give him darshan. On the Kanakadasa Mantapa, beyond which lit by Sri Madhavacharya that has opposite side of Kanakana Kindi is is the Anantheshwara Temple in the been burning for centuries and has Kanakadasa Mantapa, a domed middle of the complex, with the never been allowed to be extinguished. structure housing his life-size statue. Chandramouleshwara (or Chandres Legend has it that when Chaitanya At the site of the original entrance wara) Temple located in front. Mahaprabhu came to Udupi, he lit a stands a statue of Chenna Keshava. lamp from this one and took it to The entrance is opened only once a Sri Krishna Temple Vrindavan, where Krishna had spent year on Vijaya Dashami. The trained A unique feature of this temple is his adolescence. temple elephant ‘blesses’ devotees that Lord Krishna is not worshipped A slatted window grille behind with its trunk in return for coins and directly but through a nine-holed the temple is called Kanakana Kindi, bananas. Krishna, considered as the window called Navagraha Kitiki. through which Krishna had revealed Lord of fourteen worlds, is worshipped Dedicated to the nine planets, the himself to his ardent devotee, fourteen times a day with rituals silver-plated window is an exquisitely Kanakadasa, a low-caste Kuruba who extending from 4am to late night — carved screen through which visitors was not allowed to enter the temple. ten services are carried out till noon view the idol of Krishna as a small Undaunted, Kanakadasa went behind and the remaining four in the boy, clutching a churning rod in his the temple and prayed to the Lord evening hours.

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u Sri Krishna Temple Jagadguru Shri Madhwacharya Moola Mahasamstana, Car Street, Udupi Timings 4am–9pm Cell: 08452040404, 09987123949, 09224 444455 W udipikrishnamutt.com

Anantheshwara Temple Legend has it that a childless couple once prayed to Lord Shiva at the Anantheshwara or Ananthasana Temple and were blessed with a son, who grew up to be the 13th century philosopher-saint Madhavacharya. Ever since, childless couples come Anantheshwara Temple here for blessings. This was where Madhavacharya received his spiritual education and later expounded on the Dvaita philosophy. Lord Chandramouleshwara Temple, at the site where Shiva was worshipped by Chandra Parasurama is worshipped in the form of a linga in this shrine and a Chandra Pushkarni, the temple tank forth in the southwest corner of the 40ft tall deepastambha (lamp pillar) where Lord Shiva had pardoned the tank. Then onwards, it is believed getting there stands outside. Madhavacharya’s Moon god, was later appropriated as that once every 12 years, the sacred Air Nearest airport: Bajpe Airport, birthplace Pajaka is 12km away Madhava Sarovar. Ganga flows into this tank to cleanse Mangaluru (54km/1 hr). Taxi to Udupi where his foot impression is herself. Adjacent is a gau-shala or costs `1,800-2,500, KSRTC Volvo bus enshrined in a temple. Madhava Sarovar cow shelter maintained by the fare: `95/ Regular bus: `50-70 The sacred tank with green waters temple trust. Rail Udupi Railway Station is connected Chandramouleshwara Temple was initially part of the by direct trains like Rajdhani, Garib Legend has it that Chandra the moon Chandramouleshwara Temple. After Ashta Mutts Rath, Sampark Kranti, Humsafar, god undertook a penance here in the Madhavacharya gave the newfound The eight maths or mutts (religious Matsyagandha Express, etc to all the forest to redeem himself from a curse idol of Lord Krishna a holy bath centres) instituted by Madhavacharya major cities on the Konkan Railway line. by Daksha Prajapati. Since Lord Shiva here, it came to be known as Madhava can be found around Car Street — Rickshaw fare from railway station to was worshipped by Chandra, the Sarovar. According to legend, when Kaniyooru Mutt, Sode Mutt, Puttige the main town is `35-40 temple that sprung up around it was Madhavacharya was a little boy, he Mutt, Admar Mutt, Pejavar Mutt, Road Udupi is well connected by road called Chandramouleshwara. The expressed a desire to visit Badrinath. Palimaru Mutt, Krishna Mutt, and to Bengaluru, Mangaluru, Mysore tiny entrance, surrounded by shops His guru, being very fond of him, did Shirur Mutt. The mutts are appealing, (Mysuru), and other cities in Karnataka selling religious brassware, is easy to not wish to be separated from his with wide arches, large squares, and Bus KSRTC buses ply regularly on miss. The yellow-coloured, high- favourite disciple. So he prayed to vernacular architecture. The these routes; KSRTC/private buses roofed structure houses a swayambhu the lord for a remedy, and an management of the Krishna Temple from Bengaluru (8-10hrs/ `424-1,032); (self-manifest) linga that changes akashvani (divine voice) instructed is shared in a rotational term of two from Mysuru (7-8hrs/ `550-650); from colour thrice during the course of him not to travel north, as Ganga years by the mutts. During the Mangaluru (1 hr/ `59-474) to Udupi the day — black in the morning, herself would come south to visit biennial Paryaya Festival, officiating blue at noon, and white at night! him. A white stream of water sprang priests hand over responsibilities to

220 Karnataka Karnataka 221 Coastal Karnataka UDUPI other pontiffs and the streets are full confectionery shop and an of devotees, processions, elephants, assortment of halwas made of godi and fireworks. During festivities, (wheat), badam (almond) and pilgrims draw the golden, silver and kushmand (pumpkin), besides holiges bronze chariots parked nearby with from Cinema Restaurant, Diana great fervour. Restaurant, and Mitra Samaj.

SHOPPING Where to eat

From Krishna statues to photographs Mitra Samaj (Tel: 0820-2535600) of the Balamurali idol, vessels and was started in 1949 by Nittur Gopal brassware like diyas, bells and picture Holla as a small tea shop sharing a frames, the shops around Sri Krishna wall with the Chandramouleshwara Temple sell a wide range of religious Temple. The last of the original paraphernalia. Pick up cashew Udupi restaurants, even now, no macaroons or malpuris from any garlic and onion is used in the veg

Udupi annadana and the masala dosa A lot of bananas from the Udupi market go to the temple elephant during festivals It is widely believed that the world’s favourite South Indian dish – the masala food here. Try goli bajji, uppitu dishes. Try the famous fish meals dosa – was created at Sri Krishna Temple (upma), bullet idli, Mangaluru buns, with anjal fry at Hotel Thimmappa in Udupi. For centuries, the temple has biscuit roti, parota with kurma, in Adiudupi. followed the tradition of annadana or pineapple shira and the massive feeding devotees sattvik pure veg cuisine nji a r pa Outlook dosa (Thursday closed). Where to Stay cooked by Brahmins. But none anticipated They also run Mitra Café adjoining the massive inflow of pilgrims. Cooking a the Mitra Hospital on the Old Post Udupi has several pilgrim lodges, p r a sh nt meal of rice, lentils, and vegetables for Office Road. The iconic Diana chowltries (resting places), and such huge numbers became cumbersome. Restaurant (Tel: 0820-2520505; Cell: guesthouses run by different mutts An urgent innovation was needed. A 09448132202) is the birthplace of and temple authorities. Geetha temple priest suggested that a potato the legendary ‘gadbad’ ice-cream and Bhavan, Birla Chowltry, Sri Krishna filling, sans onion or garlic, be added to the serves a good range of local snacks Dhama, Admar Mutt Chowltry, Sri simple dosa. As news of the masala dosa and halwas. Venkatramana Temple Guest House, spread, so did the small eateries that For a wider variety of authentic Puttige Mutt, and Pejawar Mutt’s promoted it. Tiny Udupi cafés, with their Udupi fare, check out New Cinema Adhokshaja Mandir are some basic staple fare of dosa, idli, vada, uppitu and Restaurant) in Mythri Complex and options, besides city hotels and puri palya, spilled out of the temple town ajadinas (dry fry) and chutneys. It marked Woodlands Restaurant (Tel: 0820- lodges. Manipal nearby has better and across India. Yet, Udupi cuisine has the beginning of the tiffin-room culture in 2522807). Hotel Arya in Koteshwar hotels with more luxurious beach much more to offer – pumpkins, gourds, south India and spawned a chain of Udupi on NH-17 is known for its mentya resorts at Malpe and Kundapura. jackfruit, colocasia leaves, raw bananas, cafés across the country and beyond. dosa. Ramakrishna Hotel (Tel: 0820- Samanvay Boutique Hotel (Tel: mango pickle, sambar with ground Everywhere, brand ‘Udupi’ is built on three 2523189-93) on Geetanjali Road has 0820-2500250, Cell: 09448011111; coconut, rasam, adyes (dumplings), pillars: hygiene, taste, affordability. two restaurants, Amantran and LX Tariff: `4,366-6,000; TE) near Brasserie, that serve multi-cuisine Govinda Kalyana Mantapa,

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SHUTTERSTOCK maddale or mridangam, an essential Kinnimulki Main Road, is the only musical accompaniment in Yakshagana 5-star hotel in Udupi; the new performances. The glittering pride of the boutique property is cut off from Deccani Sultans of Bidar, the Humnabad the town’s bustle. It has 48 rooms Nawab Mahal, is a late 19th century with luxurious linen, housekeeping structure with coloured, glazed tiles, Belgian service twice daily, large work desk, glass and lamps, exquisite Austrian bathtub with walk-in shower and chandeliers, a spiral, cast-iron ladder from luxurious bathroom amenities. Birmingham and beautiful Bidriware. The There are two vegetarian restaurants, highlight is the Vijayanagara Kamal Mahal an MTR outlet outside, a coffee of Kukanoor, believed to be the only shop, yoga studio, foot reflexology surviving wooden structure of the famed by FootWorks and complimentary Vijayanagara Empire. Built by the military breakfast. The 3-star Hotel Sharada governor during the reign of Harihara II, it International (Tel: 0820-2521968, served as the residence of the army 2522910; Tariff: `1,500-4,500; TE) commander or Dandanayaka. The home is located on NH-17, Adi Udupi, History, architecture, and artefacts come together in this recreated 7-acre village named after the lotus frieze motif in the Bannanje, offers 42 rooms with ceiling framed by bulbous pendants. A room service and Internet; it also large hall houses a big cache of bhootas, has two multi-cuisine restaurants Hasta Shilpa Heritage Village Museum family deities, pre-Vedic pagan gods and with a bar. Hotel Sri Ram Residency Sometime in the 1970s, the sight of an Durbar Hall, a trading house-cum-residence outlandish animal figurines. There is a (Tel: 0820-2530761; Cell: antique pillar being used as firewood called Hungarcutta Bansale mane, the 300-year-old vessel of bell metal where 09035446019; Tariff: `1,500-4,500; disturbed banker Vijaynath Shenoy so much Byndoor-Nelyadi house, the Belgaum curd or buttermilk stays fresh for a week TE) near the Head Post Office Road, that he bought the piece and dedicated his Peshwada, a British Cantonment home from and containers where rice could stay fresh Thenkpete, is a 2-star hotel in the life to conserving the endangered architectural Bangalore (Bengaluru) with terracotta tiles for five years! Visitors can explore the heart of town with TV and telephone heritage of the region. The result was Hasta depicting Queen Anne on the façade, and a open-air museum through two tours. in rooms with views of the city and Shilpa, a trust established with the patronage 250-year-old Vaderhobli House of the Koni Southern Stroll is ideal for first-time the sea from the rooms on the of the Pai family, besides Finnish and Karanths of Kundapur. Each structure is visitors and the elderly, while the Eastern upper floors. The tariff includes Norwegian aid, to preserve the rich legacy of unique. Kunjur Chowkimane, a ‘courtyard Jaunt was opened in 2018. complimentary breakfast. Dakshina Kannada. It brings together history, house’ of Shivalli Brahmins from Udupi, u Address Alevoor Road, Opp Hotel Lake Hotel Kediyoor (Tel: 0820- architecture and artefacts in a recreated dating back to early 19th century, is built in View, Manipal 2508222, 2522381; Tariff: `1,500- heritage village, with 26 traditional homes the architectural style of Kerala based on the Tel: 0820-2574577; Cell:09845229701 7,000; TE) near Service Bus Stand, artfully restored. Rare heritage structures on 15th century treatise Manushyalaya Email [email protected] Shribeedu, is a landmark hotel with the verge of being demolished were acquired Chandrika. Bhatkal Navayath Muslim House, www.indiaheritagevillage.org 38 rooms and offers room service, by the trust and transplanted into the 7-acre a 200-year-old mansion from Bhatkal, has no Tours Southern Stroll (11/2 hrs): Wed/Fri/ Internet and same-day laundry. The complex in Manipal. Among the oldest conspicuous veranda; tinted glass and slatted Sun; Eastern Jaunt (11/2 hrs): Tues/Thurs/ Gokul Krishna veg restaurant serves structures is the 700-year-old Jangama Mutt windows with tiny vents protected the privacy Sat Timings 11:30 am, 2 pm, 4 pm (Oct- Udupi cuisine and the Gazebo of Puchchamogaru. The three-century-old of a conservative Muslim home. Each of the May); Monsoon Walk (1 hr): 10am, Restaurant offers non-veg fare; the Sringeri House was built as per Vedic richly carved wooden pillars is unique with 11.30am, 2.30pm, 4pm (June-Sept) Kediyoor Confectionery has freshly traditions, and the Vidyamandira was the sterling brass work on the doors. Harkur (Mondays closed) made cakes and sweets. Treebo residence of the pontiff of Ramachandrapura Olaginamane, literally, ‘interior house’, was Ticket `300 pp/ `500 pp for both tours Vijaya Grand (Tel: 0820-2531141; Mutt in Shimoga. You will find a Mangalore built 400 years ago for a Harkur Bunt family. (senior citizen and students 50% off). Tariff: `1,800-4,200; TE) located on Christian House, the regal Mudhol Palace Its spindle-shaped pillars are inspired by the Monsoon Walk `200 pp Old Post Office Road, opposite

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Kalpana Theatre, Diana Circle, is a the 600-acre campus has well laid budget hotel with 30 air-conditioned out roads, towering college buildings, rooms; it has no in-house restaurant, hospitals, hotels and cafés. The so breakfast has to be ordered in. town’s chief landmark is Tiger Circle, named after the big cats that used to For more, see Udupi Accommodation roam here once. Smrithi Bhawan Listings on pages 45-446. (9.30am-1pm, 2.30pm-6pm, closed on Sundays), the house where Dr AROUNDs TMA Pai lived from 1898 to 1979, is now a museum dedicated to his life Manipal (8km) and achievements, documented Manipal is to education what Udupi through photos, awards and is to vegetarian food. The small accolades. Don’t miss the scale model university town revolves around the of the township, which gives a bird’s institutes established by the Manipal eye view of Manipal. Beyond Group, founded by the late Dr TMA Syndicate Bank building is Dr TMA Pai, a doctor, banker, visionary, and Pai Planetarium, (Tel: 0820- philanthropist. From the first 2571922) with 69 seats and four The fishing centre of Malpe caters to the appetite of fish-lovers across Karnataka institute Kasturba Medical College in daily shows on the solar system 1953, today the Manipal Academy of (English 10.30am/ 2.30pm, Kannada 2km to a dead end at the edge of a (Cell: 09844736230) on the Main Higher Education (MAHE) runs over 11.30am/3.30pm, Tuesday holiday). high plateau to End Point, which Road serve multi-cuisine dishes and two dozen professional colleges Special shows are conducted between offers a view of the Swarna river tasty snacks. where lakhs of students pursue 2pm and 3pm for groups of 50 or meandering below and amazing In Manipal head for Country academics. A vibrant young town, more. Further down the planetarium, sunsets. On Udupi Road, Govind Pai Inn & Suites by Radisson (Tel: within the Manipal Institute of Samshodhana Kendra Tel: 0820- 0820-2701600; Tariff: `3,800- An Indian meal at a Manipal restaurant Technology campus, lies the 2521159, Cell: 09902710092 15,000; TE) located on Rajathadri Venugopala Temple. Built in 1973, (9am-5pm, Saturday ½ day/ Sunday Road, Vidyarathna, KA Nagar. A it fuses architecture of three faiths closed) at MGM College Campus casual 4-star hotel, it offers 54 — the sanctum is like a Hindu shrine boasts a huge collection of books on rooms, an outdoor infinity pool, and houses a statue of Krishna history and Indology accumulated spa, business centre, fitness centre. playing the flute; the large dome and by Rashtrakavi Govind Pai. Within mosaic flooring are Islamic; while the same complex is the Regional Malpe (6km) the tall bell tower is typical of Resources Centre for Folk Situated at the mouth of the Udyavara Christian churches. In front of the Performing Arts with a gallery of river, Malpe is an important fishing temple is Brindavan Garden, a well- wooden artefacts and statues in centre with a picturesque beach and maintained park with a sculpture of copper and brass. Outside are a few a natural harbour. At the busy fishing two large elephants at the entrance. stone images and inscriptions. pier, an assortment of bangda The Basic Sciences building across Manipal’s star attraction is Hasta (mackerel), kane (lady fish), prawns, Tiger Circle has an Anatomy Shilpa Heritage Village Museum. shrimp, sharks and crabs are unloaded Museum (Tel: 0820-2922081; Anupam Restaurant (Cell: from a battery of boats. Fisherwomen 8am-5.30pm) and adjacent is the 09448355249, 09916823246 opposite carry the baskets to gigantic scales Pathology Museum (8am-5.30pm). KMC, Manipal Restaurant (Cell: where they are weighed and then Beyond the MAHE complex, drive 09980641064) and Manipal Canteen loaded onto waiting trucks, packed

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SHUTTERSTOCK with crushed ice. Almost single- Ayurvedic spa with aromatherapy, handedly, Malpe sates the appetite of along with water sports and thousands of fish-lovers across adventure activities. The Paradise Karnataka. Malpe has a long, crescent- Lagoon (Cell: 07847800800; Tariff: shaped natural beach hemmed in by `4,000-6,700; TE) at Kemmanu groves of casuarinas and a scenic Hoode, is a lovely beach, backwater ‘marine drive’ where pushcarts sell and houseboat resort. bhelpuri, ice cream and sugarcane juice. The lush St. Mary’s Island is a St. Mary’s Island (12km) speck to the right and a jagged chain Located 6km into the Arabian Sea, a of rocks can be seen on the left. 30-minute boat ride from Malpe Across the bay lies the island of Daria harbour leads to the palm-fringed St. Bahadurgarh with the Balrama Mary’s Island. Locals also call it temple and Malpe’s oldest tile factory Coconut Island. Because of the rocky set up by the Basel Mission. approach, passengers are transferred In Malpe your best bet is the to a shallower boat and taken ashore. Paradise Isle Beach Resort (Cell: Legend has it that before making his 07847800800; Tariff: `3,500-7,000; official landing on the Indian TE) located on Malpe Beach, 6km mainland at Kappad beach near from Udupi. It offers 72 rooms, Kozhikode in 1498, the Portuguese View of the beach landscape from the Kaup lighthouse, which was built in 1901 separate vegetarian and non-veg explorer Vasco da Gama dropped restaurants, a bar, coffee shop, anchor here at the northern-most from the Malpe Development veg cafés as well as shacks selling fish speciality seafood restaurant, island, Tonse Par. He erected a holy Committee (Tel: 0820-2538779). curry-rice and kane fry. The aggressive cross to commemorate the historic crows are quick to snatch fish from Paradise Isle Beach Resort landing and christened the island ‘El Kaup (14km) the plates of unsuspecting tourists. Padron de Santa Maria’. Over time, it Kaup is famous for its beautiful The beach looks beguilingly serene became known as St. Mary’s Island. beach, the shrine of Hosa Mariamma but has strong undercurrents. The 300m long, 100m wide island and the century-old lighthouse on a In Kaup try the Palm Grove is composed of volcanic hexagonal rocky promontory jutting into the Resort (Tel: 0820-2551505, 2579505; basalt rock formations in dramatic sea. A narrow walkway through a Cell: 07406722269; Tariff: `2,000- shades of red and black, contrasting shaded stretch of palm leads to the 2,500; TE) located near Yermal against the turquoise-blue Arabian beach with a few shops and eateries. Beach. It has 13 rooms. There’s no Sea. On account of its geological and Built by the British in 1901, the restaurant but food can be ordered ecological importance, St. Mary’s black-and-white-striped 130ft in from nearby eateries; the Island was declared a National lighthouse throws a beam of light complimentary breakfast is basic Geological Monument. that can be seen 26 nautical miles (usually neer dosa-chutney) served in u Ferry timings to St. Mary’s Island away. Four long flights of steps give a dining hall. There’s a common (5km/20min) 8am-5pm Tickets access to the light on the fifth floor. room with TV, children’s park, `300/400pp (return). note On The 200-year-old temple of Hosa indoor games, and landscaped holidays, the island boat leaves only Mariamma, built like a traditional lawns. With the quiet pristine beach when it is full (15-20 pax); on home, houses the bronze statue of nearby, one can walk along serene weekdays, timings are 10.30am and the Kaup’s guardian deity, the tribal the coastal road lined with an 3.30pm. Boats can also be chartered goddess Mariamma. The beach has abundance of coconut groves.

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Kundapura (38km) settled here in the 16th century and Best known for its eponymous dish built a fort. Army commander Hyder Kundapur Chicken, the ancient town Ali constructed a redoubt at the is tucked away between the Arabian entrance to the river. His son Tipu Sea and the Panchagangavalli river. Sultan built a freshwater tank near The Panchakanya or five rivers — town to breed a particular type of Kubja, Khedaka, Varahi, Souparnika, fish for his personal consumption. Chakra — join as Panchagangavalli After Tipu’s death in 1799, the British at Gangolli. Legend has it that took over the town and anglicised it Kundavarma built the Kundeshwara to ‘Coondapur’. While in town, see temple on the banks of the river and the Sachidanand Dattatreya the town that came up around it was Temple, old mutts with traditional called Kundapura. Some attribute architecture, and visit the beaches of the name to kunda (jasmine), from Kodi, Koradi, and Bijadi, besides the the abundance of jasmine trees here, scenic bridge at Gangolli. Kundapura or to kunda (pillar), referring to the is also a great centre of Badagathittu, traditional way of building houses. the northern style of Yakshagana, Kundapura was the principal port the traditional folk dance-drama of of the Rajas of Baindoor who took Karnataka. Soans Holidays at Grace control of it after the decline of the Villa on CS Road (Tel: 08254-231683, Sachidanand Dattatreya Temple showcases traditional low-key architecture Vijayanagara Empire. The Portuguese Cell: 09448120826) are the local authority on Kundapura and organise property set on 5 acres with eight town has several temples like the Sri Shetty Lunch Home has famous dishes camping, cycling, birdwatching, jeep rooms (four on each floor) in a Mahalasa Narayani Temple, sacred to tours, and trekking to more than 25 heritage home. the Gaud Saraswat Brahmin waterfalls in the area. Shetty Lunch community. Dr Sivaram Karanth’s Home near Kundapura bus stand is Basrur (41km) 1970 Kannada novel Mai Managala famous for its Chicken Ghee Roast Located on the banks of the Varahi Suliyalli is set in Basrur and depicts and Kundapur Chicken. river, Basrur was once a key port its rustic charms. Stay at Soans Island In Kundapura check out UVA town on the Canara coast. Originally while you explore the town. Meridian Bay Resort & Spa (Cell: Vasupura, it was called ‘Bares’ in In Basrur head for the ever- 09449606060, 09483303030; Tariff: Ptolemy’s chronicles, ‘Abu Sarur’ by popular Soans Island (Tel: 08254- `3,000-8,000; TE), a hidden gem Ibn Batuta, and ‘Barcelor’ by the 231683; Cell: 09448120826; Tariff: near Koteshwar just short of town; British. It prospered as the area’s `6,000 with 2 meals and a boat this sprawling upscale resort is set premier rice port in the 16th and trip; TE). This private island resort is on a 33-acre campus about 6.5km 17th centuries and the town’s streets run by Vishwas and Lavinia Soans from Kodi Beach. It has 49 spacious housed various communities — on a 750m strip of land at the rooms with a complimentary traders, artisans, weavers, dancers, mouth of the Varahi river, about breakfast service. and singers. The Mahalingeshwara 6km south of Kundapura. For a detox holiday (no alcohol, Temple was built by the ancient no non-veg), look no further than South Indian merchant guild Maravanthe (54km) Balkatmane Homestay Ayurvedic Nakhara and is hence also called NH-17 cleaves through Maravanthe Retreat (Cell: 08861302296; Tariff: Nakhareshwar Temple. The annual with the Arabian Sea on one side, the `10,000 with meals; TE), a quiet chariot festival is held in April. The Souparnika river on the other, and

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Prashant panjiar the rolling Kodachadri Hills in the beach, with 11 spacious rooms that distance. Tourist facilities are limited come with balcony and a good sea but it’s a scenic patch of rivers, view. There’s no restaurant — food bridges, sprawling cashew and can be ordered from nearby eateries. coconut plantations and orchards of The Sagar Kinara Beach Resort jackfruit and mango. Apart from a (Cell: 09448724861, 09886884046; great photo-op, Maravanthe offers Tariff: `800-1,000; TE) offers six spectacular sunsets. Watch fishermen simple rooms, 1km short of bring in the catch at Trasi and take a Maravanthe. Run by Srinivasa ride in a country boat on the Avabratha and family, it has no backwaters of the Souparnika river. restaurant but food can be ordered For a longer jaunt, take a boat ride to from nearby joints. Lighthouse Island, 5km (30 minutes) into the sea, or to Coral Island for Karkala (40km) snorkelling between October-end An important Jain pilgrimage centre, and April. Karkala is believed to have got its In Trasi/Maravanthe the name from the kari kal or black Sunlight Beach Resort (Cell: granite stone found in the area, used Between the Souparnika river and the turquoise blue Arabian Sea 09880346029; Tariff: `2,300; TE) to fashion temples and idols out of comes well recommended for its it. From 6th century onwards, Karkala supported by 32 pillars with black is flanked by the shrines of excellent location right opposite the served as a base for the Alupas — stone images of Aranatha, Mallinatha, Chintamani Parshwanatha on the feudatories of the Kadambas — who and Munisuvrathanatha in the right and Sheetalnatha on the left. Inside a Jain basadi in Karkala ruled the kingdom of Tulunad for sanctum. The eastern side, where the Outside is another tall stone pillar nearly 800 years. King Bhairarasa daily worship takes place, has small with the image of a seated yaksha on made Karkala his capital and, as images of 24 tirthankaras. Half a top. Though the hillock is only 300ft Jainism flourished, many basadis kilometre south of the basadi leads to above sea level, it offers panoramic (Jain temples/shrines) and a Bahubali Bahubali hill. Halfway up the steep views of fields, Ramasamudra Lake statue were built. The town’s main steps is the simple Parshwanatha- and lush vegetation to the east. Just avenue Ananthashayana or AS Road Padmavathi Basadi. Dominating off AS road, to the west, are other is named after the 700-year-old stone the summit is the imposing Bahubali shrines like Ucchangi Mariamma temple dedicated to Anantha statue (open 8.30am-7pm), also Temple and Shri Venkataramana padmanabha Swamy. Diagonally accessible by road from the back of Temple that enshrines a small opposite is the small shrine of the the hill. At 42ft, this is the tallest panchaloha idol. Across the road is goddess Padmavathi. About half a Bahubali (aka Gomateshwara) the Anjaneya Temple with a tall kilometre away and a few steps up a sculpture after the gigantic one in statue of Hanuman smeared with hill, lies Chaturmukha Basadi Shravanabelagola and was built in vermillion. A day trip from Udupi is 10am-2pm, 4pm-6pm), named so 1432 during the reign of Veerapandya enough to cover Karkala. because it has four entrances. Built in Bhairarasa. A square enclosure In Karkala you’ll find some basic 1856 by King Bhairarasa II, it is surrounds the statue and facing it is but clean accommodation facilities, referred to as Tribhuvana Thilaka the manasthambha, a carved stone at Hotel Suhag (Tel: 08258- Jina Chaityalaya and Ratnaraya pillar. On the right side of the 231991/2; Tariff: `800-1,400) located Dhama in scriptures. A huge stone courtyard is the yajnashala mantapa in the Gopal Towers Complex, Main structure with high ceilings, it is where rituals are held. The entrance Road, near the Indian Overseas Bank Prashant panjiar

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statue to look for a site. Legend has it Devi. To the east lies a lovely lake in that as they reached Attur at the base the middle of which sits a conical- of the Parpare Hill, they put the idol roofed shrine called Kere Basadi. on the ground to quench their thirst The temple priest ferries visitors in a at a spring. The statue took root and rowboat. Though the main deity is refused to budge. Taking it as divine Parshwanatha, it also has idols of will, a church was built in 1839 and Ananthanatha, Neminatha, and replaced by the current one in 1900. Shantinatha. The lake is full of fish Set amidst gentle hills, the church and you can feed them puffed rice or has a holy pond, Pushkarani, behind bread. The picturesque surroundings the 100ft bell tower. The Parpare Hill and quiet atmosphere make Varanga has caves used by Tipu Sultan. The an appealing getaway. Its basadis annual Attur Jatre (festival) in come under Swasthishri Devendra January-end draws people of all Keerthi Swamiji of Hombuja Mutt in faiths. Special prayers are held every Shimoga district. Thursday at 10am. Take the Karkala- Agumbe Road till the arched entrance Nallur (58km) on the left from where Attur Church Nallur is a nondescript village known Kere Basadi, the Jain temple that sits in the middle of a lake in Varanga is 2km away. Buses from Karkala to for its beautiful Digamber Jain temple Moodabelle stop here. Tel: 08258- dedicated to Lord Parshwanatha. Set with standard and AC rooms, a safe to bathe. Forest hikes should be 298232, 230322; Cell: 08762033222, in a walled compound amid a maze vegetarian restaurant and shopping. done only with a local guide, 08746033222 W stlawrenceattur.org of buildings, the sanctum stands on Hotel Prakash (Tel: 08258-234981/2, available at the nearest village a platform housing the 5ft image of Cell: 09632826562; Tariff: `800- Santhekatte or Nalkur near Hebri. Varanga (50km) Parshwanatha and Kushmandini 1,962) is a budget hotel near Carry food and water with you, as The handful of basadis, a mutt, and Devi in front. It is said that if a flower Ananthapadmanabha Swamy there are no facilities. the scenic lake make Varanga a must- decorating the idol falls down while Temple, offering 12 standard rooms visit for followers of the Jain faith a devotee prays, one’s wish will come with cable TV and phone, multi- St. Lawrence Basilica, Attur and an interesting detour for offbeat true. Don’t miss the rare depiction of cuisine restaurant and parking. (41km) travellers. Next to a huge field and Samosharanam on the first floor, a Within a stone’s throw from Karkala parking lot is the 1,000-year-old symbolic representation of heaven Jomlu Theertha Falls (40km) stands the historic St. Lawrence Neminatha Basadi, with a lofty with seven doors, with miniature The Sitha river flows through pristine Church of Attur. Records state that dhwajastambha and manastambha stone figures of humans and animals jungle and falls in a 20ft cascade. there was an older church 7km away pillars in the adjacent enclosure. on their path to salvation. Though the cluster of falls is not big, dating back to 1759, which was About 200ft away is the main mutt u Puja timings Daily 10.30am; it’s a scenic location, with patches of destroyed by Tipu Sultan, and local and the Chandranatha Swamy Special pujas are carried out on black rocky outcrops lending a rich Christians were taken as captives to Basadi with an image of Padmavathi Tuesdays from 10am-1pm ■ contrast to the surrounding forest. Srirangapatna. After Tipu’s death in To reach the falls, one must cross a 1799, the freed captives returned to stream, carefully stepping over build a thatched roof church in #Awesomekarnataka slippery stones. The force of the 1801. As the faithful flocked to the water beating down has carved some shrine, a bigger church was needed. holes in the rock, creating rocky Led by a Goan priest, the parish pools with several points that are members set forth with a 1ft wooden

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Kandukagiri hill. The act of trampling Beach Resort and Naveen Golf in mud — mrida is ‘muddy’ in Resort, even an RNS Highway Hotel. Sanskrit — led to the place being The wide, scenic beach is the hub of called ‘Mrideshwara’; over time it all activity with hawkers, boat rides, became Murdeshwar (also spelt water sports and fishermen bringing Murudeshwara). home the catch at dawn. The beach When Lord Shiva learnt about is safe for swimming, except in the the incident from the wind god monsoons when the sea gets rough. Vayu, he came down to earth with Weekends tend to be crowded. Parvati and his retinue. He visited these five spots and sanctified them What to See and Do as pancha-kshetras (five holy places). It is believed that those who Murdeshwar Temple worshipped them would be liberated Set against Kandukagiri hillock, the from all sins. According to legend, seaside shrine is connected to the when Shiva came to Murudeshwar mainland by a thin wisp of land, he saw himself in the linga. Pleased, which forms the scenic approach to he summoned all the gods and the temple. Located on the site of a

prashant panjiar blessed the place. Some believe it much older shrine, two inscriptions A load of fish on its way to delicious transformation in Karavalli kitchens was from this state of mrid (happiness) that the place was called Mrideshwar. Since the linga didn’t have a pedestal, Lord Shiva MURDESHWAR instructed the celestial architect Shiva by the Sea Vishwakarma to build one. Ironically, it took a modern-day fast facts Vishwakarma to revamp Murdeshwar When to go The best season to visit ■ anurag mallick and disguised as a Brahmin boy and and put it on a pedestal. Local Murdeshwar is post-monsoon, between PRIYA GANAPATHY offered to hold the Shiva linga while entrepreneur and real estate October and March, when the sea is ocated 127 km north of Ravana performed his evening developer RN Shetty renovated the playful and the days are not all that Mangaluru, between Bhatkal prayers. Ganesha placed the linga on ancient temple and transformed a sultry L(14 km) and Honnavar (26 km), the ground where it took root and sleepy coastal village into a hub of Murdeshwar used to be a lonely was enshrined at Gokarna as pilgrim tourism. He erected the Tourist Office seaside hillock with an ancient Shiva Mahabaleshwar. A furious Ravana second tallest Shiva idol in the world ● Office of the Deputy Director temple, until recently. Legend has it tried to move it in vain and flung the at the cost of one crore rupees, Department of Tourism that once Ravana undertook a case of the linga, which fell 23 miles besides a mythology-themed garden NH-17, Near RTO Office, Goa Main penance to appease Lord Shiva and north at Samputeshwar or and lofty 20-storeyed Raja gopura or Road, wished to take his embodiment, the Shejjeshwar. The lid allegedly landed grand gateway tower of the temple. Karwar, Uttara Kannada atmalinga, to Lanka. Lord Shiva 27 miles south at Guneshwar or Understandably, most of the Tel: 08382-221172 (DD Office) agreed on the condition that the Gunavante, the thread fell south at properties are run by the RNS Group Cell: 09483132206 (TO) linga should not to be kept on the Dhareshwar and Ravana trampled across various categories — the basic 09742322901 (DTC) ground. As Ravana neared Gokarna, on the sacred cloth that wrapped the RNS Guest House, the mid-segment STD Code 08385 Lord Ganesha appeared before him linga and hurled it 32 miles south to RNS Residency, the high end Naveen

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prashant panjiar

getting there Air: Nearest Airport is Bajpe, Mangaluru 1 (148 km/ 3 /2 hrs) is connected to major metros like Bengaluru, Chennai, Hyderabad, Mumbai and more by major national carriers. A taxi to Murudeshwar costs approx ` 3,500 Rail: Murudeshwar has a railway station but few trains stop here. Opt instead for any of the trains plying on the Mumbai-Goa-Mangaluru-Konkan Railway line which stop at the most prominent and the nearest railhead, 1 Bhatkal (16km/ /2 hr) from Mumbai. The Matsyagandha Express halts at Murudeshwar Station. Autos from Bhatkal (` 350) will drop you off at Murudeshwar. An alternate option is to board a train till Shimoga (6 hrs) from date the construction of the Nandi Giant Shiva keeping an eye, or three, on beach buffs at Murudeshwar Bengaluru and then cover the rest of mantapa to 1542 by Vijayanagar the journey by road king Devaraya II. Two life-size mythological fantasy park nice circumambulatory path around Road: If you’re driving from Bengaluru, concrete elephants stand guard conceptualised by RN Shetty — the hill, perfect for a nice walk. take the NH48 to Tumkur via outside the 20-storey 237.5 ft high Ravana in meditation, Ganga Nelamangala. Then you can switch to raja gopura. The present temple, emerging from Shiva’s matted locks Where to stay NH206 to Honavar via Arsikere, Kadur, with its golden tint and sculptures of as Sage Bhagirathi looks on and Shimoga, Sagar and Talguppa. At yakshas and yakshinis, is apparently a Arjuna on his ratha listening to Lord RNS Residency (Cell: 08762471841; Honavar, turn south along the NH17 via blend of Chalukyan and Kadamban Krishna expounding the Bhagwad Tariff:2,500-6,000) is a lovely Udupi, Koteshwar, Kundapur, Byndoor styles of architecture. However, the Gita. Towering above is the 123 ft beachside luxury hotel with a great and Bhatkal. Regular state transport dark sanctum sanctorum remains high, four-armed statue of Lord Shiva view of the Arabian Sea, the palm- and private buses operate between untouched, where Lord Shiva is seated in meditation, said to be the fringed beach and rolling hills in the Bengaluru and Bhatkal from Majestic worshipped in his ascetic form of an second tallest Shiva statue in the distance, from the upper floor rooms. Bus Stand. Naik Tours and Travels (Tel: aghora linga. world. With his back to the sea, one It has 86 centrally air-conditioned 08385-260335, 09844022915) on Timings 5:30am to 1pm, 2:30pm to hand rests on his yoga danda (wooden rooms (50 sea-facing, 25 pool-facing Temple Road in Murudeshwar rents out 8 pm staff); the other is stretched, palm and 11 sunset-view). On account of Tourist Vehicles and also organises bus outward, in blessing, while his rear its proximity to the temple precinct, tickets (ordinary buses/ Volvo) to major Shiva statue arms hold a damru (double drum) it’s a pure vegetarian joint with no cities like Mangaluru and Bengaluru Scattered over the Kandukagiri Hill, and a trident respectively. There’s no liquor. The hotel has a restaurant, five minutes from the temple is a entry fee to the park, which has a coffee shop and a conference hall.

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anurag mallick Recently, water sports like kayaking, and Continental food — from has been started by the hotel. The seafood to chicken ghee roast and RNS Golf Resort (Tel: 08762471752; local beverages. Tariff: 3,500-8,260) spread over 42 acres, the luxury resort is located in a AROUNDS beautiful golf course by the sea with rooms and a restaurant overlooking Bhatkal (16 km) the greens, beside a swimming pool. Once a part of the Hoysala Empire The RNS Guest House (Cell: during the rule of Ballala III from 08762471842; Tariff: 1,700-5,000; 1291 to 1343, Bhatkal is an ancient TE) is a mid-budget hotel with 45 port town that was later administered rooms and ideal for families on a by the Vijayanagara kings, who had tight budget . The Mavalli Beach their coastal headquarters at Heritage Home (Cell: 09901767993; Honnavar. Bhatkal became an Tariff: `4,000 upwards) located on important trading port of the Murudeshwar Beach Road) is a lovely Vijayanagar Empire in the 16th beachfront heritage homestay offers century, frequented by Jain and Arab five rooms with traditional decor merchants who came to sell their and great sea views and sunsets from wares, horses from Arabia and the balcony. Enjoy the warm weapons in exchange for sugar, Bhatkal’s largest Jain temple Jattappa Nayakana Chandranatheshvara Basadi hospitality of hosts Rajeshri, Devdas pepper, spices and rice. and family with home-cooked Indian Many of Bhatkal’s temples and name was given to this place. Many was built in Vijayanagar style in Jain basadis were built during this holy temples and basadis were 1545 with donations from Bhatkal’s Bhatkal Jain stone inscriptions period of prosperity. Italian traveller constructed here during traders during the reign of Queen Varthema (1503) noted that Bhatkal Chennabhaira Devi’s rule. Chennadeviamma of Hadavalli. was a noble, beautiful city among Bhatkal’s largest Jain temple is With the decline of the Vijayanagar the top-ranking centres of trade and said to be Jattappa Nayakana Empire, the queen controlled local commerce in the Vijayanagara Chandranatheshvara Basadi, built trade and battled the Portuguese Empire. Emperor Krishnadevaraya in 1556 by Narana Nayaka, son of a who called her ‘Raina da Pimenta’ allowed the Portuguese to build a general in the queen’s army. The or Pepper Queen. Inscriptions fort here in 1510 but little of it double-storey structure has three describe acts of war, worship, faith survives. After the fall of chambers on each floor, which once and sacrifice. One inscription Vijayanagara, the Saluva rulers who housed images of tirthankaras. mentions a Portuguese raid on ruled from their capital Hadavalli Inscriptions in the complex describe Bhatkal on 23 October 1542 16km away, brought the coveted Bhatkal as a ‘town of palaces and describing how the Portuguese town under their rule. Eminent shrines glowing with the riches and captain laid siege to the city, burnt Kannada scholar Akalanka II was splendour of the kingdom’. A tall it down and marched towards the born here and became the mentor granite pillar rising above the palace. Warrior Enkapa Nayaka died of Jain grammarian Bhattakalanka crowded marketplace draws one to a hero’s death while battling the (1598), who wrote the treatise Shabd- Parshvanatha Basadi dedicated to enemy at the gates. anushasana. It is said that the 23rd Jain tirthankara. The squat Many Saraswat Brahmin traders Bhattakalanka rescued the people shrine with ornate balustrades and and Konkani families had migrated during an earthquake and hence his dvarapalas (guardians at the door) from Goa to Bhatkal to escape anurag mallick

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Portuguese persecution. Over time, with the queen to build churches Arabian traders intermingled with and realised their dream of opening them to form a new community a factory at Bhatkal in 1678. Under called ‘Nav-ayaths’, and literally Tipu’s rule, Bhatkal’s overseas trade means ‘newly arrived’. While their received a further boost. East of dialect borrows heavily from town at Moodbhatkal, the lofty Konkani and the local tastes have a flagpole of Kethapayya Narayana touch of Arabia, they have developed temple stands out amidst a field of their own distinct identity. coconut and adike (betelnut) trees. The old Jumma Masjid dating The stone temple with granite back to 1447 AD had been given a carvings is colloquially known as modern facelift but the old town is ‘Adike Narayana’! littered with opulent mansions that Pink-hued salt is extracted in the traditional manner at the Sanikatta salt pans hint of a rich past — Ishaqi House, Where to eat Barmavar House, Bab-e-Africa, the Naveen Beach Restaurant at RNS lobsters, moray eel, angelfish and spectacular Barnawi House, with Residency is the main eating hub of Nethrani Island surgeonfish. The shallow Nursery, only imported tiles, stained glass windows Murdeshwar and offers authentic, Nethrani or Pigeon Island is easily the best 10m deep, is ideal for beginners and and ornate woodwork and Moulana pure-veg South Indian cuisine and dive site off the Karnataka coast. The photographers and is named after the Bungalow on the highway, with a veg thalis. Several beach shacks serve landing is a little rough with a short profusion of juveniles of several fish monogrammed ‘M’ on its gates. vegetarian cuisine while some, scramble over rocks covered in barnacles. species. Grand Central Station, a gradual In the late 17th century, the tucked away from the temple area, Set atop a hillock, an old temple at the slope going down 20m has schools of big Portuguese reached an agreement serve fish curry-rice. Nisarga summit, offering a stunning view of the surgeonfish, parrotfish, red snappers, Residency has the non-veg Hotel sea, is accessed by an arduous trek. batfish, barracudas and rabbitfish. Aladdin’s Bhatkal Halwa Nisarga and a separate veg restaurant According to local legend, a Brahmin once Cave is believed to be the mouth of a Sharavathy. went to perform puja on the island in a tunnel leading to the core of the island. The The busy bazaar has lots of local makeshift boat fashioned out of banana Abyss drops down 35m and has large delicacies like date halwa, salted roti, leaf. Sadly, the leaf broke and the priest schools of barracuda and tuna. The dead Bhatkali biryani (try the chicken drowned leaving the island uninhabited end Cul de Sac with sheer walls on either biryani at Kwality Restaurant) and ever since! Local fishermen leave live side teems with tiny reef fish and several the famous Bhatkal halwa, a cocks and goats as offerings at the small species of goby in a bed of sea grass. glutinous sweet made of godi (wheat temple atop the island’s summit for a wish Netrani Adventures (Cell: 09900431111, extract). Every day at dawn, in the that came true. The British tagged it Pigeon 09916554422) offers scuba diving at backyard of Bhatkal Super Halwa’s Island because of the large number of Netrani Island; trips range Rs 5,000 (45 home factory on Bunder Road, pigeons. Another bird that frequents the mins) upwards. They also offer scuba Nazeer, Israj and Yakub take turns to island is the swiftlet, whose nests are a courses; for more info log on to stir the large cauldron of halwa, gourmet’s delight as Bird’s Nest Soup. netraniadventures.com. Dive Goa (Cell which is poured into trays to cool, The island, with its corals and clear 09325030110), based at the O Pescador cut into cubes and shipped out. blue waters, is a great snorkelling and Resort at Panjim’s Dona Paula Jetty in Goa Hashim Bakery stocks jars of diving hub. Local resorts like Sai Vishram offers diving packages (inclusive of diving Bhatkali lon miri or red chilli paste and adventure outfit Barracuda Diving gear) here. It has a permanent dive centre and aale lahsoon or ginger garlic organise trips to Nethrani. Each dive site at Netrani. For information on course fees, masala paste, the heart and soul of is unique. Dini’s Delight, 8 m deep, has a packages and custom-made tours, visit Navayathi cuisine. Chillies on the gigantic coral head and one may find their website divegoa.com anurag mallick

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shutterstock Honnavar (20 km) Baindoor or Sumana River with the Once Honnuru or ‘Golden Town’, sea and amazing sunsets. Honnavar is home to Rama Teertha, the spot where Lord Rama shot an Where to stay arrow to create a perennial spring. As Sai Vishram Beach Resort (Cell: the story goes, while wandering in 088613 02296; Tariff: `8,000-14,000, search of Sita with his brother with meals) on Someshwara Beach Laxman, Rama encountered an asura Road is a ‘pure-veg, non-alcoholic (demon) who had caused a drought beach resort’. It may not sound an in the area. Rama killed the demon attractive proposition at the outset and shot an arrow into the earth and but Sai Vishram will bowl you over a spring gushed forth, rejuvenating with its charms! Named after Sai the earth. The place came to be Baba, the resort, is owned by an known as Rama Teertha and centuries ardent devotee, MD Manohar Shetty, later it continues to flow, even in cousin of noted medic Devi Shetty. peak summer. Later, Honnavar came Spread over 24 acres, it has 26 units under Hyder Ali before it developed — 10 luxurious beachside tents with into a naval dockyard and trading shaded patios and a private backyard, A narrow suspension bridge over river Sharavati hub. The Sharavathi bridge here is 10 standard and deluxe AC rooms the longest in Karnataka. About 6 with sea views and 5 stepped AC highway serves excellent seafood 225291; Tariff: `650-1,250) on km from Honnavar, Apsara Konda cottages. Named Sun, Earth, Bhatkal and delicious non-veg fare. Shamsuddin Circle, opposite the Bus Falls is a picturesque setting with a and Water, each ‘concept’ house has Stand is a basic hotel on the highway fine beach. a distinct vernacular design. Where to Stay with simple rooms. Encouraging guests to spend time RNS Highway Hotel (Cell: Baindur (32 km) outdoors, none of the rooms have 08385268192; Tariff: `900-2,300) Idagunji (20 km) Legend recounts how Sage Bindu TV, telephones, newspaper or wi-fi, near RNS Hospital, just 1 km from Drive 13 km north of Murudeshwar undertook a penance near Ottinane making it ideal for a complete detox. the railway station and 700 m from and turn right 7 km off NH-17 to the where the river Sumana merges with Try the backwater cruise during high the bus stop, is a budget hotel with holy ‘Edakunji kshetra’. The small the Arabian sea. The place became tide, which takes you past basic rooms, an average restaurant village in Karwar’s Honnavar taluka known as ‘Bindu-uru’ (Bindu’s Someshwara Temple, where the with limited menu and ample is located on the left bank of the village) which evolved to Baindoor. Baindoor River joins the sea, and 6 parking, ideal for highway travellers Sharavathy River, hence the name The lush viewpoint Ottinane is km inside to the sluice gate. Early looking for a quick overnight stop. Ida-kunji, from eda meaning ‘to the located on a hillock off the highway mornings are ideal for dolphin The Royal Oak (Tel: 08385-222655; left’ and kunj meaning garden. It is as you head out of Maravanthe cruises, while evenings must be Tariff: `2,500 upwards), formerly the holy seat of the Pancha-khadya- beyond Baindoor. Here, you can reserved for a hike to Ottinane known as Citrus Murudeshwar, is on priya Ganapathi worshipped with an witness the confluence of the Sunset Point. ■ Bunder Road, near the Bus Station, unusual offering of moode (an idli- Belalkanda, is a 30 min drive from like offering), made up of five Murdeshwar. It has 32 rooms ingredients called mashbhaksha. The (including triple rooms and family offerings are stacked on all the sides #Awesomekarnataka rooms) with veg and non veg of the idol till it reaches its head but restaurants on separate floors. Hotel oddly, it is never enough to Kola Paradise (Tel: 08385-223707, completely cover it!

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name originated from the ear-shaped beach bums got added to the usual confluence of the rivers Gangavali flow of pilgrims. Adding colour are and Aghanashini where Gokarna is the Halakkis, an agriculturist tribe located. The temple that came up that traditionally sold haal-akki or over it was called Mahabaleshwar ‘milk-rice’ for subsistence, now seen after Ravana’s maha-bal (great power) hawking vegetables in the market and the town became a pilgrim dressed in beaded finery. centre and one of the sapta puris Gokarna in some ways is Goa (seven sacred spots) of Karnataka. pushed back a few decades. While The panoramic drive from the the main beach attracts the devout, highway weaves past the chequered leisure tourists favour Kudle and salt beds of Sanikatta resembling Om beaches to the south. Hidden outsized waffles, rocky cliffs, and from view, reachable only by a the Arabian Sea. Car Street, the coastal hike are the isolated Paradise arterial road winding through town, and Half Moon beaches. Quaint and is lined with temples, bylanes, rustic beach shacks with hammocks chariots and clusters of tiled homes line the edge against a backdrop of

prashant panjiar with vernacular architecture, besides mountains. Some of the local resorts Two coves join to form an inverted symbol of ‘Om’, at Gokarna’s Om Beach quaint Udupi eateries, souvenir organise activities like nature hikes, shops, and cyber cafés. Two Brahmin treks, birdwatching excursions and sects, who live on either side of a trip to Yana, besides water sports Gokarna’s Car Street, manage the such as parasailing, banana boat GOKARNA temple activities in a three-year rides, and snorkelling off Om and The tale of the sacred atmalinga rotational stint. Kudle beaches. An ancient pilgrimage centre, ■ anurag mallick and Saptakoteshwar (present day Goa), Gokarna is an important seat of PRIYA GANAPATHY Ravana neared the coast around Sanskrit education, where Brahmin Gokarna when Lord Vishnu artfully priests recite Sanskrit shlokas in he scenic temple town of blocked the sun with his sudarshana temple courtyards and devotees Gokarna on Karnataka’s west chakra. The pious Ravana thought it perform pind daan for the salvation Tcoast is associated with an was time for his evening prayer. Lord of their ancestors. Only Hindus are fast facts enchanting legend. The atmalinga Ganesha appeared as a Brahmin boy allowed inside Gokarna’s temples. When to go From November to March was the supreme embodiment of and offered to hold the linga while Besides the temples of Lord Shiva, worshipped by the Ravana went to bathe. However, he Mahabaleshwar, Maha Ganapathi, Tourist Office saptarishis (seven great sages) and all put it down, where it took root. and Venkataramana, are smaller ● Department of Tourism, Government the gods. Blessings were bestowed on Despite Ravana’s best efforts to shrines dedicated to Bhadrakali and of Karnataka the person who merely glanced at it uproot it, the linga remained affixed Tamra Gauri. No. 49, 2nd Floor, Khanija Bhavan, and untold power was entrusted to but suffered a distortion because of Yet, Gokarna has another side Race Course Road, Bengaluru the one who possessed it. Pleased by his brute force. It resembled the that goes beyond its spiritual air. Tel: 080-22352525/ 2727/ 2828 Ravana’s great penance, Lord Shiva shape of a ‘cow’s ear’ (go-karna), ergo, Ever since an ‘Om-shaped’ beach Cell: 09686633491, 07795516979 granted his wish to carry the linga the name. Another legend states that was discovered by the spillover W karnatakatourism.org from Kailash to Lanka. After Lord Shiva emerged from the ear of a crowd from Goa, a motley mix of STD Code 08386 performing the midday rites at cow at this spot. Some say that the backpackers, yoga practitioners, and

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prashant panjiar THINGS TO SEE AND DO chariot) used in temple festivities are housed nearby. Customarily, pilgrims Mahabaleshwar Temple first bathe in the sea and worship a Gokarna’s ancient Mahabaleshwar Shiva linga fashioned out of mud Temple is often compared to the before paying tribute at the Vishwanath Temple at Varanasi, Mahabaleshwar Temple. Male hence it’s hailed as Dakshin Kashi devotees must be bare-chested to (Kashi of the South). King enter the main sanctum and perform Mayurasharma of the Kadamba jalabhisheka (consecration by holy dynasty built the earliest temple water) or doodhabhisheka around the mid-4th century although (consecration by milk). most shrines in the temple complex belong to the 16th-17th century, the Tamra Gauri Temple later Vijayanagara period. A 6ft tall Located to the rear of the linga is housed in a square called the Mahabaleshwar Temple, the temple Saligrama Peetha with only the tip of Tamra Gauri (also Gouri) is visible through a small opening. The dedicated to Lord Shiva’s consort as entire atmalinga is opened for public Uma or Gokarna-nayaki who came viewing only during the colourful to Tamra Parvat (Copper Mountain) Gokarna is also an important place of pilgrimage festival of Ashtabandha, held once in in search of Shiva. Her idol is seen 12 years. The Dodda Ratha (big holding a balance in her hands, Venkataramana Temple Rama Teertha/Bharateshwara chariot) and Sanna Ratha (small alluding to the tale of her measuring For his part in the atmalinga saga, Temple the sanctity of Gokarna versus Lord Vishnu is worshipped here as A little to the south of town, en route Temple chariots decked up for a festival Varanasi and proving how the coastal Venkataramana. Situated at a to Kudle and Om beaches, lies Rama town outweighed Kashi in terms of junction in the eastern end of Teertha, a temple built on a hill at its spiritual weight! Gokarna town, the temple guards the spot where Lord Rama and his over the Mahabaleshwar shrine at brother Bharata performed penance, Maha Ganapathi Temple the far end of the road. A lofty, hence its other moniker, The temple deifies Lord Ganesha, ornate pillar stands outside the Bharateshwara temple. The Garuda who in the guise of a Brahmin boy temple’s sanctum sanctorum. and Rama-Sita Caves are located deceived Ravana to save the atmalinga nearby and the vantage point offers from being carried off to Lanka. Koti Teertha a great view of the Arabian Sea. Within the shrine is a 5ft ancient On the way to the main Gokarna two-armed Ganesha granite idol. A beach and reachable by a maze of Kudle Beach hole at the top of its head represents narrow lanes is the Koti Teertha kund South of Gokarna’s main beach the violent blow struck by an angry (tank) with its emerald green waters. dominated by pilgrims, lies the Ravana. The temple is also known as The sacred man-made tank is quite broad, palm-fringed Kudle Beach, Siddha Ganapati. The annual deep and graphic signs warn devotees accessible by a 20-minute coastal Shivaratri festival in February is to take care while having a dip. walk from town or a circuitous 5km celebrated with a rath yatra when the Nearby is a temple dedicated to Lord drive. Stretching for nearly a temple chariot ritually starts from Krishna, apparently built where he kilometre, Kudle Beach is a lot cleaner the Ganesha shrine to the performed a penance to kill the and quieter, and is favoured by those Mahabaleshwar temple. demon Banasura. who are here to worship nature. shutterstock

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anurag mallick Om Beach and follow the trail of white arrows Gokarna’s famous Om Beach was over crags and a little diversion into once a coastal hike away past Kudle, a forest patch before you emerge on a 30-minute jaunt, but a direct road to Paradise. If hiking is strenuous, from Gokarna town has made it take a boat from Gokarna. easily accessible, taking away the sheen and allure of a ‘hidden beach’. Where to Eat Here, a promontory juts out from the coastline, dividing the beach This being a temple town, Gokarna’s into two semi-circular arcs resembling main beach is purely vegetarian with the inverted letter ‘Om’, visible mostly Indian food available, besides clearly once you walk past the shacks the odd café serving Western cuisine. lining the whole sandy shore and Gokarna International’s Downtown climb the mountain on the far side. Restaurant offers good coastal cuisine while Purohit Restaurant Half Moon/Paradise Beaches serves veg North and South Indian The trail south of Om Beach winds fare and Chinese dishes. Pai Hotel through a small forest patch and on the main road is a good place for along a narrow path with the idlis and dosas. The beach cafés at Om Beach Resort has four Konkan-style colonial cottages and offers yoga mountainous slope on the left and a Kudle and Om beaches rustle up sheer drop to the right. After the anything from pizza, pasta, falafel, or renamed, though a slew of resorts has 24 traditional Konkan villas isolated Half Moon, walk over rocks shakshuka to banana pancake and has added some swank to Gokarna. made of earthy laterite and rustic muesli with curd, fruit, and honey. Hotel Om International (Tel: thatch that camouflage its plush A lively game of volleyball underway Eat at White Elephant Restaurant & 08386-256445; Cell: 09480603786; interiors: an open inner courtyard Cottages, La Pizzeria Kudle View Tariff: `2,464-4,130 +breakfast) on with aircon only in the bedroom and The Rock Namaste Café on Taramakki Road, close to KSRTC Bus and bathrooms partially open to the Kudle; and Shantidham Café, Stand, Ganjigadde, is located in the sky. Locally sourced organic Nirvana Café, Raasta Café, and heart of Gokarna, near the main vegetables and fresh sea fish are Dolphin Shanti Café at Om Beach. temple and the beach; the landmark served at Anamaya Beach Restaurant Sea Bird and Om Beach Resort have hotel has been around for over three and Cocum Restaurant and the in-house restaurants as well. decades. Though revamped from menu does not feature meats, hard Om Lodge to Om ‘International’, liquor, processed foods, dairy, refined Where to stay the rooms are nothing fancy but sugar, or refined flour. The signature clean and equipped with a mini- programme, Swa Wellbeing for 5 Gokarna is a pilgrim town with fridge, locker, and hot water kettle. nights costs `1,22,500 for two. For no-frills hotels and basic lodges run CGH Earth SwaSwara (Tel: 0484- longer stays, try their rustic low- by temple priests. A good bet for 4261751; Cell: 09744070099; Tariff: impact forest abode Vana Vasa pilgrims is the New Prasad Nilaya `76,000 for 3 nights, all-inclusive nearby. The Kudle Beach View (Cell: 07406958097, 09483939434). with pick up and drop from Goa/ Resort & Spa (Tel: 08386-256056/9; Most others head to the ‘clifftop’ or Hubballi airport) at Donibhail, Om Cell: 08130967666; Tariff: `5,500- ‘beachside’ shacks around Kudle Beach, is a wellness resort. The 8,700 +breakfast; TE) at Kudle Beach, and Om beaches. Many pop up in 30-acre campus, with three large sprawls across three blocks and is ‘season’ for a spell and get relocated reservoirs for rainwater harvesting, accessible by a series of steps. It has prashant panjiar

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anurag mallick beach-view rooms, garden-view restaurant and swimming pool. rooms, and a massage centre. The Local sightseeing and water sports at spacious deluxe and superior rooms Kudle Beach are organised. The are airy, with LED TV with DTH, location is great but the topography aircon, cosy couches, mini bar, coffee and steps make it difficult for senior maker, and wi-fi. There’s also a citizens and people with physical garden restaurant, a rooftop disability. Jungle Lodges’ Om Beach Resort (Cell: 09480885307; Tariff: `2,758-3,245 +all meals, nature walk, temple visit pp) on Om Beach Road, Bangle Gudde, features four Konkan- style colonial cottages, colour-coded brown, green, blue, and violet to getting there represent the four rivers in the region AIR Nearest airport: Dabolim Airport, — Sharavathy, Gangavali, Kali, and 1 Goa (155km/ 3 /2 hrs), is well connected Souparnika. Arogya Kshetra, the to Bengaluru, Mumbai by major airlines. Ayurveda section, has a host of Taxi to Gokarna costs `3,500-4,000 specialised rejuvenative and Pink-hued salt is extracted in the traditional manner at the Sanikatta salt pans approx. Another option is the Hubli therapeutic treatments, besides yoga Airport (145km/3 hrs), which offers sessions. There’s an open-air bar sea view, besides wi-fi, car parking natural manner of open evaporation connections to Bengaluru, Mumbai, with an airy restaurant at the lower and left-luggage services. in salt fields in this brackish backwater Hyderabad, Tirupati, and Jindal Vidya level. Arthigamya Spa & Resort region, yielding upto 12,000 tonnes by Spicejet and StarAir. Taxi to Gokarna (Cell: 08880688806; Tariff: `3,500- For more, see Gokarna Accommodation per year. The typically pink-hued salt costs `3,000-3,500 approx 5,500 +breakfast; TE), also on Om Listings on pages 435-436 is the magic ingredient in Uttara RAIL Gokarna Railway Station is 10km Beach Road, is a new resort with Kannada and GSB (Gaud Saraswat from town. It is connected to Mumbai, spacious standard and luxury rooms AROUNDS Brahmin) cuisine. You can watch the Panjim, Mangalore (Mangaluru), and with bathtubs, a restaurant, a good salt-making process at the Nagerbail Ernakulum by several trains, such as outdoor pool (open 24 hrs) and a Sanikatta Salt Pans (4km) Salt Owner’s Co-operative Society Matsyagandha Express, Marusagar SF spa offering traditional massages, If there’s one place worth its salt, it (Tel 08386-256131). Express, Poorna Express etc therapies, and scrubs. Kudle Beach is would be Sanikatta. Located on the ROAD: From Bengaluru, take NH4 to just 100m away, a minute’s walk. banks of the Aghanashini river en Tadadi Port (5km) Tumkur and then switch to NH206 Nimmu House (Tel: 256730; Cell: route to Gokarna, the vast tapestry of Located south of Gokarna is Tadadi towards Shimoga. The drive gets 09448181532; Tariff: `1,500-3,000; muddy brown saltpans is a dramatic Port, a minor fishing port with a fish pleasant after Bhadravathi as you head TE) on Mani Bhadra Road is an sight. Since 1720, this tiny hamlet processing plant set up with Indo- towards Honnavar via Sagar. From iconic family-run budget guesthouse, spread over 581 acres has quietly Danish collaboration. The local Honnavar, you can cruise comfortably started in 1990 by the gregarious built its reputation as the oldest salt heavyweight Sayi Exports ships out along NH17 to Madangeri; from here Nirmala (nicknamed Nimmu) and manufacturing site in Karnataka and an assortment of seafood to countries take a left turn towards Gokarna Ajit Gokarn. Revamped in 2004 and still continues this legacy. After as far as Japan. A trip to see their fish- BUS Good options are KSRTC’s Airavat run by the next generation, Amit meandering through the forested curing plant can be enlightening. service from Bengaluru (`843), and Bharata, its warm hospitality Western Ghats, the Gangavalli and Karnataka Sarige `518, and the Non AC keeps regulars coming back. The Aghanashini rivers are enriched with Mirjan Fort (21km) Sleeper `769 property has 10 AC rooms with medicinal and mineral benefits. Set on the banks of the Aghanashini attached private balconies offering Sanikatta salt is extracted in the river, the fort is a remarkable piece of

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shutterstock Dhareshwar Beach. Categorised as Chandika river. Reachable by a 3km the basic Aura Priya, deluxe Aura hike after a drive from Sirsi (16km) or Classic, and luxury Aura Signature, Kumta town (47km), Yana is famous the cottages are made of eco-friendly for its crystalline formations of black material. Kedige Homestay (Tel: rock that have lent a dramatic 222273, 220426; Cell: 08762519277; backdrop to several film songs. Tariff: `2,100-5,000; TE), near the Yana’s song-and-dance routine is Alvekodi Church, is run by Prakash not new. Legend has it that the and Prajna Shanbhag as a charming demon Bhasmasura received a boon little homestay, 3km south of Kumta from Lord Shiva that gave him the town on the highway. It’s a simple power to turn anybody into ashes by setup of three non-AC rooms with just placing his hand on their head. attached bath, balcony and terrace, Wishing to test his new powers on with delicious Konkani fare. the god himself, he chased him till Located on an 8km (or 5-mile) Shiva found refuge in the caves of stretch of beach, 5 Mile Beach Yana. Lord Vishnu was called for Resort (Cell: 06381266942; Tariff: help and he, in the form of seductive `1,000 +breakfast pp) at Holangadde dancer Mohini, lured Bhasmasura The 16th-century Mirjan Fort, built by a queen, has a double-walled architecture Grama offers AC deluxe Swiss tents into a dance duel to match her steps. with private bathrooms. Enjoy the While imitating her clever pose of architecture that withstood several from Goa to escape plunder by the sight of dolphins, spectacular sunrise placing her hand on her own head, battles in the past. The construction Portuguese. The town’s main bazaar and sunsets, play volleyball, and the demon turned himself to ashes. of the 16th century fort is attributed is a good place to buy sandalwood take a boat to Gokarna (seasonal). Even today, the faithful believe the to Queen Chennabhairadevi of statuettes. From there, a 2km ride Nirvana Nature (Cell: 07742735052; rock was blackened by the flames Gersoppa, who is said to have lived westwards leads you to the secluded Tariff: `999) at Nirvana Beach Road and that the ashy residue found at here during her reign, as the nearby Kumta Beach. The rocky hillocks are Hubbanageri/Kagal village offers Yana are the remains of Bhasmasura. port at Mirjan village grew as a trade great in the evenings as the sun simple cottages made of stone, wood Of the 61 rock formations, the centre shipping pepper, saltpetre, slowly sinks into the Arabian Sea. and bamboo. The property’s tree most notable are the twin shikharas: and betelnut to Surat. Accessed by Kumta serves as a base to explore houses overlook the sea. the 120m tall Jagamohini and 90m wide steps at its four entrances, Yana and the rich hinterland in the Bhairaveshwara, named after the though only one is open today, the interiors of Uttara Kannada. Yana (50km) incarnations of Vishnu and Shiva. At laterite fort is double-walled, has In Kumta The Hotel Pandurang In a scene right out of the Lord of the the base is a large cave temple lofty turrets on its bastions, besides International (Tel: 08386-221538; Rings saga, the towers of Jagamohini dedicated to Lord Bhairaveshwara. several interlinked wells and canals. Tariff: `950-1,900; TE) in Gandhi and Bhairaveshwara rise like giant The adjacent cave houses a bronze Nagar, on the main highway cutting black karst limestone columns above image of Chandika, an incarnation Kumta (32km) through town, is a no-frills hotel the lush Sahyadris and the blue of Devi Durga. ■ This small coastal town synonymous and makes for a convenient pitstop, with Kumta onions and chilli is also with its 41 rooms and a restaurant. known for its sandalwood handicrafts Aura Ecostay (Cell: 08971280866, made by the Gudigars, traditional 09632673893; Tariff: `3,500-10,000 #Awesomekarnataka artisans. Like a lot of shrines in Uttar +breakfast; TE) on NH-66, Dhar Kannada, the Shanteri Kamakshi and eshwar Kadekodi, has 15 spacious Mahalsa temples were shifted here AC rooms with sit-outs overlooking

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Back on the beach, the evening Kajubagh, just a kilometre away from comes with food carts and a the bus stand. It has been renovated, refreshing breeze from the sea. As but the results have been a little the sun disappears behind the disappointing. The Dattatreya islands, sitting atop one of the Temple at Baad, around a century viewpoints at Karwar, you’ll be old, still exudes an old-world charm rewarded with a stunning view of and has a tranquil ambience. The the sea and the crimson sky. Many Muralidhara Mutt at Kodibagh has decades after Tagore penned the an 85-year-old structure, with a tiled words in “infinite joy”, it remains roof, carved pillars and airy an apt description of the gift Karwar courtyards. A round trip to all these lavishes on every visitor. places is doable by auto. ◆ Note The temples and mutt are THINGS TO SEE AND DO open from 6am till late evening. Rabindranath Tagore Beach Bridge across the river Kali Named after the great poet whose A walk across the Kali River Bridge

Photographs by ANURAG MALLICK first play was written during his stay during the early hours of the day is Kurumgad Cintacor Island Retreat at Karwar, the beach today is the refreshing. Take occasional breaks on nucleus of the town’s social life. the way to look down: you’ll see Locals love to spend a few hours fisherfolk going out into the estuary KARWAR every evening here, chatting with friends and watching children play NORTHERN QUEEN on the beach. Kids can enjoy a ride on the toy train that runs alongside ■ Vivek M nature is not a mirage of the the beach. You can also take them to imagination but reflects the joy of the Naval Museum or the aquarium s the highway swirls and the infinite…”. close by. At the museum, you can FAST FACTS descends towards Karwar, the This is just a curtain-raiser to watch a short video on naval ships When to go From September to March. Asudden change in the what is to follow. The alluring and see the displayed models and Most resorts close during the monsoon landscape, from the dull brown and islands off the coast of Karwar, close photographs of naval ships. Tourist offices amber hues of the hills to the lush to the mouth of the mighty Kali The Rabindranath Tagore Beach ● Office of the Deputy Director green palm-fringed coast, partly river, make this part of the country at Karwar is a nice and long stretch Department of Tourism hidden by a mist and punctuated by a sought-after coastal destination. of sand but is not too clean. NH-17, Near RTO Office, Goa Main little rivulets emptying themselves Here, after basking in the sun for a Swimming is not actively Road, into the sea, is both dramatic and while, only the perplexity over the recommended here. Karwar, Uttara Kannada welcoming. The beach appears in next course of action can somewhat ◆Museum entry fee `15 Timings Tel: 08382-221172 (DD Office) sight the very next minute and spoil the reverie: should one head 10am–1pm, 4.30pm–6pm Aquarium Cell: 09483132206 (TO) almost magically, there’s nothing back into the woods to feast on Entry Fee `50 Timings 10am–6pm Cell: 09742322901, (DTC) between you and the deep blue sea. freshly caught crabs, or slide into a W karnatakatourism.org, It’s the same stretch of beach that hammock for a nap under shady Temples in and around Karwar karnatakaholidays.net Rabindranath Tagore was referring palms, or hop on to a boat to watch The Vithoba-Rakhumai Temple, STD code 08382 to when he said, “…the beauty of dolphins frolicking in the sea? built in 1603, is on the Main Road at

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prashant panjiar in their canoes, hurling their nets western half of the hill is a play area just as the waters begin to glisten in with stone benches, offering the morning light; and wide-bellied fantastic views of the Kali river boats leaving the village of Kodibagh merging with the sea. Food carts to collect sand from the other bank. selling ‘Bombay’ chaat and ice cream Sadashivgad Hill, at the northern appear here after 4pm. Those seeking end of the Kali River Bridge, is a very a bigger panorama of the landscape popular hangout. At the base of the can climb up the steps to a viewpoint. The more daring can head to the top of the hill, where the ramparts of a fort, built in 1698 by the Sonda kings, are to be found.

Other beaches of Karwar getting there With its golden sands and delightful AIR: Nearest airport: Dabolim Airport, range of watersports, Devbagh Goa (90km/ 2hrs), is well connected to Beach is a huge draw. On a good Bengaluru and Mumbai by major day, you might be lucky enough to airlines. Taxi to Karwar costs `3,500- spot dolphins while out on a sail. 4,000 approx Lying in close proximity to Devbagh RAIL: Karwar Railway Station is well Beach, Majali Beach offers pretty River Kali, Rabindranath Tagore’s bust at Karwar beach, people enjoy a boat ride connected to Bengaluru, Delhi, Mumbai, much the same action. This happens Coimbatore, Thiruvananthapuram, to be a ‘resort beach’ and many of buy cashews, often sold on the streets. fresh from Baithkol port. Try the Ajmer etc. Important trains serving this the guests enjoy the river cruise to You can also pick up salted or masala prawn or crab ghee roast, prawn station are Netravati Express, Tilmati Beach with its black sands. cashews from the Kwality Dry Fruits biryani, kalva sukka (oyster), tisrya Kochuveli-Mumbai LTT Garib Rath Though located 5km from Store on the Main Road. Whole- sukka (clam) or the signature bangda Express, Jamnagar-Tirunelveli Express, Karwar, Binaga Beach lures mango pickles are a Karwar speciality. mastani (mackerel coated in red Mangala Lakshadweep SF Express, enthusiasts with its Portuguese-era UK Pickles, located opposite the masalas, wrapped in leaf and cooked) Matsyagandha Express, Coimbatore- Our Lady of St Anne’s Church. Mahadeo Temple at Baad, makes along with meals with bangda fry. Jabalpur SF Express, Pune-Ernakulam Koodi Bagh Beach offers lovely some of the best. To pick up The cooks at the Devbagh Resort SF Express, Thiruvananthapuram- views of the Kali river joining the handicrafts, head to the Arvind Art make some great dishes out of Hazrat Nizamuddin SF Express etc waters of the Arabian Sea. Water Centre on Coutinho Road; they mussels and crabs. Alcohol is ROAD: From Bengaluru, take NH4 to sports is again a big lure with a specialise in making wooden mandaps available at all the resorts except Tumkur and then NH 206 towards good smattering of canoes, kayaks, that serve as stands for idols. Riveredge, where you’re allowed to Shivamogga. From Honnavar, one can and banana boats dotting the sea bring your own. Hotel Bhadra’s cruise comfortably down NH17 to reach here. Sunsets are really special at WHERE TO EAT Pavilion Bar and Restaurant serves Karwar BUS KSRTC’s Rajahmsa Koodi Bagh. delicious, Karwar-style mackerel, seer Executive service from Bengaluru `749, Undoubtedly, the small popular fish, and prawn masala. The cuisine Airavat `867, Airavat Club Class Shopping eatery Swetha Lunch Home in is a mix of Maharashtrian and Goan `1,172, Karnataka Sarige `528, Non AC Ananda Arcade on Green Street styles and most dishes are bright red Sleeper `883. Buses to Goa also stop The markets on the Main Road and serves the most authentic flavours of and spicy. Hotel Bhadra’s Udupi Café at Karwar. around Subhas Circle sell a lot of local Karwar. Run by the Basrur family, it offers idlis and dosas for breakfast. produce. Karwar is a good place to dishes out excellent seafood, sourced Hotel Amrut on the Main Road is

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clean rooms. All these hotels arrange perfect for swimming, fishing, taxis for sightseeing. snorkeling, stargazing and luxurious massages at the cliff-side Kurumasana For more, see Karwar Accommodation Spa. Every year in January thousands Listings on page 439 of devotees come for a pilgrimage on Pushya poornima, when the island arounds resort shuts for two days. The adjacent Madhyalingad or Madyagad Kurumgad Island (10km) is also known as Sanyasi Island. The tortoise-shaped island of Folklore recounts how the island Kurumgad (from kuruma, Sanskrit was named after a sage who sought for ‘tortoise’ and gad meaning ‘fort’) refuge here. Strangely, boats cannot is 7km from Baithkol jetty at Karwar. dock here and local fishermen swear Fortified by Basalinga Nayak of the that a certain divine power can be Sonda dynasty for a battle against felt even today. the British, only the ruins of one bastion remain. Kurumgad served as Devgad/Oyster Rock (11km) Fresh fish figures on the menu of most of the resorts in Karwar a rustic island getaway called The A 25 min boat ride from Kurumgad Great Outdoors, until The Little lies Devgad, once Devaragudda or the best restaurant in town. The any resort, then the only option is Earth Group transformed it into a ‘god’s hillock’. When the British coastal cuisine on offer here, ranging Hotel Bhadra (Tel: 08382-225212, private island getaway called docked here, they found its rocky from shell fish to pomfret, cooked 225212-13; Tariff `3,500-5,500; TE), Cintacor Island Resort (Cell: shore full of oysters and named it using local spices, attracts a huge located at the southern end of the 9487533640). A choice of plush, Oyster Rock. A short walk leads to crowd. Try the chilli squid with bridge. The rooms are decent and ocean-themed rooms with modern the summit where a 66 ft stone chilled beer. Hotel Sai International basic but some of the bathrooms are décor are set amidst wild shrubbery masonry lighthouse stands. Built in and Hotel Premier also serve coastal dark and unventilated. with balconies overlooking the 1864 by Chance Brothers, it can be and North Indian dishes in their A good place to stay here is Arabian Sea. Go on nature walks accessed by smooth teakwood steps restaurants, including kane and Sterling Resort (Tel: 266000-02; along neatly marked trails (Temple that lead to an upper chamber. prawn masala in the Karwari style. Tariff `6,000-8,000) near the Toll Trail, East Mile Trail, West Mile Trail), Caretaker Govind looks after the Hotel Poornima on the Main Road Naka. It has 50 rooms, some of take a boat ride at sunrise or sunset lighthouse and its impressive serves good South Indian dishes for them sea-facing, with a restaurant, and indulge in water and adventure polished antique lights, gleaming breakfast. Ashirwad Ice Internet access and games. sports. Enjoy the day’s catch at copper cans and mirrored discs. A Refreshments on Kaikini Road Karwar town has many options Captain Nemo’s Deck overlooking door opens out to a narrow makes the best icecreams and milk for the budget traveller. Hotel an infinity pool while watching wraparound balcony that offers shakes in town. Do try out their Premier (Tel: 229925-26, 229925- dolphins dance in open waters. Cut magnificent views of the sea and the ‘lighthouse special’. 27; Tariff `990-1,568) on Green off from all civilization, Kurumgad is coconut covered coastline. n Street has clean rooms and efficient WHERE TO STAY service. Hotel Sai International (Tel: 229956; Tariff: `600-1,350) on In the town the Main Road, with large rooms, is #Awesomekarnataka In case one wants to stay close to the another good option. Hotel Kali River Bridge, where all the action Navarathna (Tel: 226927; Tariff: is centred, and yet not be a part of `900-3,500; TE) has decent sized,

260 Karnataka Karnataka 261 Western Ghats There’s no better place to commune with nature than among the landscapes of India’s top bio-diversity hotspot Western Ghats Route Planner

264 Karnataka Karnataka 265 Western Ghats KUKKE SUBRAHMANYA

green splendour. For the theists, can A huge quadrangle leads you to the there be a more beautiful place to sit main deity — Sri Subrahmanya with and pray? the serpent god protecting him. The silver idols gleam within the THINGS TO SEE AND DO darkness of the sanctum sanctorum. The Vedavyasa Samputa Narasimha Myths about the slithering reptile Temple is south-east of the main abound in India. The snake, in its temple within the quadrangle. The various moods, is attributed with holy Sringeri and Subrahmanya having the power to make such mutts are also situated within the crucial decisions as to whether one temple complex. will bear children, suffer from skin About a 100m from the main ailments or strokes of ill luck. In temple is the temple of Adi most of Karnataka, the first Subrahmanya. A huge anthill here destination for childless couples is is a popular attraction. Nearby is a Kukke Subrahmanya, where special shrine to goddess Hosaligamma, naga pujas are undertaken to seek the bodyguard of Sri Subrahmanya. the blessings of the Snake God, who ◆Timings 7 am-1.30 pm, 3.30-8.30 dwells here along with the son of pm Abhishekh timings 9.30-10 am Shiva, Kumaraswamy and his wife (get your slip by 8.30 am) The entrance to the Kukke Subrahmanya temple Devasena. Legend has it that the Serpent King Vasuki had undertaken Biladwara a penance on Kumara Parvatha Literally meaning ‘the door of the nearby. When Lord Kumaraswamy hole’, this is a cave about half a KUKKE SUBRAHMANYA — or Subrahmanya — came here kilometre from the Subrahmanya SACRED EARTH IN THE HILLS after winning a battle against the Temple. Legend has it that Vasuki, demon Tarakasura, Vasuki prayed the Serpent King, hid here to protect ■ NANDINI SRINIVASAN As you get off NH48 at Sakleshpur that the lord would stay here with himself from Garuda, the golden for Kukke Subrahmanya, you can him permanently. His wish was f you live in a city and your only see green and more green. If granted and Vasuki enjoys all the worst nightmare is a car you are extra sensitive and happen pujas and reverences Lord Ibreakdown or flat tyre, it’ll do to drive to Subrahmanya in the Subrahmanya is entitled to. Both the you good to get acquainted with rains, you might just find, every so serpent king and the lord were Girigaddhe Bhatt. He lives 2,000 ft often, your breath caught in your brought down the hill in a basket above sea level and climbs up and throat. The munificence of the (kukke), which is why the place is FAST FACTS down the hill everyday. The monsoon on display all around will called Kukke Subrahmanya. When to go September to May. The contented smile on his face, and on make male egos realise why nature The Subrahmanya Temple is set rains add a sensuous touch to every person living in the ghats of is personified as a woman. against the backdrop of the Kumara Subrahmanya and the surrounding Dakshina Kannada who accepts life Kukke Subrahmanya is primarily Parvatha Hills, with shops and ghats. Special Car festivals are held as nature bestows, told me a hundred a place of pilgrimage; but even if temple choultries lining the road during December in Subrahmanya and things that not even a thousand ‘Art you’re an atheist, you may well be leading to the temple. Kashikatte, during April in Dharmasthala of Living’ sessions would have led to believe that there has to be a the main entrance, is lined by STD code 08257 drilled into my head. superhuman creator behind such shrines of Hanuman and Ganapathi.

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Prashant panjiar Bird King and vehicle of Vishnu, and Half way up the peak, at 2,000 ft, undertook a penance to invoke is Girigaddhe, where Girigaddhe divine protection. There is nothing Bhatt lives with his family. Three very interesting here, unless you feel generations of the family have elated about having walked past the stayed here in the sole house on the place where the serpent god slithered. hill, which offers rest to trekkers. Others can give it a miss. The Bhatt family have a neat thatched hut, grow vegetables, have Kumara Parvatha their own cattle for milk supply and Kukke Subrahmanya and its surroun are a contented lot. They aren’t dings are indeed a trekker’s paradise. bothered by the absence of electricity The majestic hills stand 4,000 ft or any connection with the world above sea level, their green folds below. Everything is so fresh here, sending a seductive invitation to right from the plantain leaves that trekkers to explore their rocky terrain are laid out for lunch and the and thick forest belts. The base of vegetables and greens that go into Kumara Parvatha is a 5-km walk it. Your enthusiasm for the better from town. At the end of Bisle Ghat, things in life is completely revived where the borders of Coorg, Dakshin when you see the women cook so Kannada and Hassan districts meet, a zealously for the trekkers. Their Pilgrims feed an elephant at the Kukke Subrahmanya Temple difficult 25-km trek through the pickles and papads are lip-smacking. forest will take you to the top of The road to the Bhatt household spectacular. More than 6,000 people a visual treat, unfolding a new marvel Kumara Parvatha. in the foothills is very slippery and from all over India trek up to Kumara of nature at every turn. muddy and thickly forested. Yet, the Parvatha every year. The road from Kashikatte, near Bhatt family climb to their hillside Write to the Bhatt household at the police station, takes you to this house in just 1 hrs while even Girigaddhe Bhatt, Girigaddhe wonderful stretch. The wide sky habitual trekkers take not less than House, Subrahmanya Post, Sullya above gets gradually blocked out by 4 hrs. Trekkers camp a little away Taluk-574238, Dakshin Kannada, the thick trees all round and just from the Bhatt household. Water and tell them of your visit in when you think the road is going to getting there can’t be had anywhere on the advance. Stay is free, there’s space in get darker, the forest clears very Road The route to Kukke Subrahmanya mountain, so fill up here and carry the yard for 50 people and food is quickly, bathing you in welcome is along NH4 to Nelamangala, and then enough water up with you. offered at a nominal sum. You can sunshine. The water from the source NH48 (Mangaluru Highway), to The trek to the top of Kumara also call Girigaddhe Bhatt at a Kukke of the Kumaradhara River cascades Sakleshpur via Kunigal and Hassan. Parvatha begins a few yards away Subrahmanya number (Tel: 08257- down at numerous places, creating Turn left at Sakleshpur to from the house. Though 281501, Mobile: 09448647947) little waterfalls en route. Subrahmanya. Mullaiyanagiri is the highest peak between 3.30 and 4 pm, when he’s Half way up the ghat, stop on the Bus KSRTC runs regular buses from in Karnataka, Kumara Parvatha is in town. bridge and step out of the car to take Bengaluru’s Majestic Bus Stand said to be the toughest trek. The in a truly spectacular sight. Water En route halts Stop to bask in the path upto Girigaddhe is quite Bisle Ghat flows down in a strong current greenery around and drink chai at do-able for beginners, but the path If you don’t do the drive up the under the bridge forming a stream. wayside hotels, or pull in at one of the beyond is daunting. A 40-foot-tall winding roads of Bisle Ghat, you will The sight of the clear water gushing many restaurants in Hassan rock at the peak marks the end of live to repent your mistake. For, over huge rocks on either side of the your trek. The view below is every inch along this 28-km route is bridge is a photographer’s delight. A

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Prashant panjiar Tariff: `100-1,200) to book rooms at From Kukke, get back on to NH48 any of the lodges (Akshara, Ashlesha, and turn left towards Mangaluru. Skandakrupa, Kumarkrupa and Drive till the forested section at Kartikeya) and guest houses. But Periashanthi, then turn right. Three these are not for the finicky. kilometres later, at Kokkad Circle, Sheshnag Ashraya (Tel: 281215/ turn right again. Watch out for the 19; Tariff: `800-1,850), a private signboard 2 km down the road, hotel, is the best option. It offers then turn right again onto SH38 to non-AC and AC accommodation Dharmasthala. with TV, plus all necessary facilities A 39-foot-high statue of Lord including hot water in the taps from Bahubali, carved out of a single 6 am to 8 am. The KSTDC-approved piece of stone, stands majestically a Hotel Mayura Residency (Tel: few yards away from the Manjunatha 281336; Tariff: `520-1,080) is barely Temple. The 170-kg statue was 100m from the Subrahmanya brought here from Karkala in 1982. Temple, and is comfortably equipped ◆Timings 7 am-2 pm, 7-9 pm for visitors. Abhishek timings 8.30-11.30 am The Manjunatha Temple Trust For details, see Kukke Subrahmanya (Tel: 08256-277121/ 41; Tariff: `100- The revered statue of Bahubali at Dharmasthala Accommodation Listings on page 440 1,000) has set up 3 dharamshalas and 8 modern guest houses for few kilometres from here, you can unsafe due to wildlife. Do get back AROUNDs pilgrims. The numerous ‘hotels’ see a watchtower. Another excellent before dark and carry along water here are for light breakfast and viewpoint, even if you can’t climb and eatables. Dharmasthala (62 km) snacks only. up the tower. The clouds drift by so The distinctive feature of Further down from the temple close you feel you can almost catch WHERE TO EAT Dharmasthala is that, though the you will find the interesting Car them. Look closely at the mountains presiding deity here is Lord Museum with its line-up of 60 across and you’ll see waterfalls in at The temple serves free meals on all Manjunatha — an incarnation of vintage cars, all in running least three places. days, except Ekadasi, till 2 pm and Lord Shiva — a family of Jains has condition. The custom-built car of About 7 km from here is a Forest again in the night till 9.30 pm. Neo been at the helm of affairs here for the King of Mysuru Sri Department office. A few steps away Mysore Café and Hotel Raghavendra more than 500 years. The Heggade Jayachamarajendra Wodeyar, a and, wow, you’re on a small swing offer delicious tiffin. Try Mangalore clan’s annadhanam scheme provides Daimler Double Six (1949) stands bridge, with the Kumaradhara bajjis. Mayura Residency serves food every day for everyone who majestically amidst other models flowing below. At the 28th km (the delicious veg meals at its in-house comes here — 10,000 people are fed like the Chevrolet Impala (1962) road continues to Sakleshpur), there Kumarakrupa Restaurant. here with 2,500 kg of rice cooked and Jaguar (1951) in the portico. is the welcome iron arch of the every day. ◆Timings 9.30 am-1 pm, 2.30-6 pm n Forest Department to your right. WHERE TO STAY Walk in for a breathtaking view. If you are lucky you can even spot Subrahmanya is a small place so elephants, bison and deer drinking don’t expect very upmarket #Awesomekarnataka from the river. You cannot drive up accommodation. The temple runs Bisle Ghat between 5 pm and 8 am, choultries and guest houses. Contact when it becomes lonely and also Temple Lodges (Tel: 08257-281224;

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heat of the sun. A place that could infuse such love between natural enemies must surely be a hallowed one, where he could establish his mutt. Why was Sarada the ishta devata (favourite deity) of Shankara? Legend has it that Sarada was none other than Saraswati, consort of Brahma, who was cursed by Sage Durvasa to be born on earth as Ubhaya Bharathi. She married Mandana Mishra of Mahishpatipura, a renowned Vedic scholar. She was redeemed from her curse after she was defeated in a theological debate, along with Mandana Mishra, by Shankara, who, it is believed, was an incarnation of Shiva. When Shankara requested her to stay back, the Divine Mother promised to shutterstock SRINGERI Tunga River HERMITAGE UPON A HILL Rishyasringa was born of a deer, with horns on his forehead. The hermitage ■ DBN Murthy and Vimala Murthy via the Kudremukh National Park, was his home and his world. He later along the course of River Tunga, brought rain to the neighbouring FAST FACTS he enchanting pilgrim centre with a small stream near its origin. kingdom of Romapada and married When to go All year round. The nine- of Sringeri nestles in the lush Thousands of devotees visit Sringeri the king’s daughter. It was Sage day Dasara/ Navaratri festivities in Oct, Tforests of the Western Ghats. year after year, to return with a Rishyasringa whose blessings King and Maha Shivaratri, Ram Navami, Washed by the holy waters of the sense of fulfilment and spiritual Dasaratha invoked at the Saraswati Puja and the Aradhana River Tunga, peace and serenity renewal. Indeed, the mystique of Putrakameshti Yagna (sacrificial (birthday celebrations) of the Jagadguru reign here. The rain gods are kind to Sringeri is better experienced than prayer performed for progeny), and draw huge crowds. the region too. Serenaded by explained. Sringeri is, quite simply, obtained four sons. Tourist office generous monsoons, verdant a joy for the eyes and a balm for the Legend has it that Adi Shankara ● Office of the Assistant Director Sringeri is reached by a hill road soul. It is where Nature is truly God chose Sringeri when he was searching Department of Tourism from Bengaluru that passes through and God is Nature. for a suitable place to establish his Vimal Niwas Bldg., Near Kote Circle, aromatic herb and coffee plantations, first mutt. It’s said that he was Belur Road, Chikamagalur which throw up a spectacular display LEGENDS AND MYTHOLOGY struck by the sanctity of this Tel: 08262-228493 of flowers in the month of May. The beautiful spot when he saw the Cell: 09481311946 (DTC) road from Mangaluru is no less Sringeri gets its name from Sage unusual sight of a hooded cobra STD code 08265 beautiful, for it takes the traveller Rishyasringa, son of Sage Vibhandaka. protecting a frog in labour from the

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shutterstock reside on earth wherever Shankara in 1906 to become the present, invoked her. He did so in Sringeri. elegant granite structure it is. An Associated with the Mallikarjuna ambulatory passage, a vestibule and Temple is another legend. It is said an open, spacious central hall with that fervent prayers — either for rains three entrances now surround the to start or stop — will be answered original sanctum. The shrine has without fail here. Ever since the great an impressive gopuram built in the Adi Shankara set up his first mutt in Dravidian style. The sanctum Sringeri, spirituality has flourished houses two metallic idols of Sri uninterrupted in this holy place. Saradamba made of panchaloha, the larger one believed to have ARCHITECTURE AND ANTIQUITY been installed by Vidyathirtha in the 14th century. The Sarada Temple was an ordinary Built in 1356, the architectural construction until it was renovated elegance and sculptural grandeur of the Vidya-Shankara Temple stands as a testimony to the genius of the Hoysala, Vijayanagar and Dravi dian styles of temple design and Sharadhamba Temple in all its glory architecture. Built in the shape of a chariot, the Vidya-Shankara Temple Vidya-Shankara Temple and the Sarada Temple getting there contains, in exquisitely carved Guru Nivas are walking distance Sri Saradamba, the presiding deity of Air Nearest airport: Bajpe Airport, stones, the very essence of the Yoga from the bazaar and the bus station. Sringeri, is revered in popular Mangaluru (100km/2-3 hr). Taxi to Sastras and astronomy. The 12 pillars The ornate gate at the entrance holds imagination as the embodiment of Sringeri costs ` 2,000-2,500 (return); in the hall represent the zodiac the promise of a great experience for Goddess Saraswati, though the KSRTC Volvo bus fare: `120/ Regular/ signs, on which the sun’s rays fall pilgrims. Autos charge `10-15 for the opinion proffered by some scholars private bus: `120-750) according to the order of the solar 1-km ride to the main temple com is that she has a separate identity. Rail Nearest railhead: Shimoga (95 months in a marvellous synthesis of plex from the bus stand. On the The temple is associated with the km/2-3 hr) is connected to major cities architecture and astronomy. main Bharati Street is the ancient Sri Sringeri Mutt. Goddess Sarada is by direct trains like Bangalore Express, Chappara Anjaneya Temple and the seated on the Sriyantra, carrying the Mysore Express, etc. Bus fare to ORIENTATION Sri Parsawanath Tirthan kara Jain rosary, vessel and book in three Sringeri is `100; taxi costs ` 2,000- Temple, which are worth a visit. hands with the fourth hand held in 2,500 (return) It is easy to cover distances in this These are at walking distance from a gesture of protection. There are two Road Sringeri is well connected by road small town. The most celebrated Sarada Temple’s main gate. Torana smaller idols, the utsavamurthis, one to Chikamagalur, Udupi, Hassan, among Sringeri temples are the Ganapathi, Kere Anjaneya, Malayala in silver and the other in bronze. Shimoga, Birur, Agumbe, Mangaluru, Sarada Temple and the Vidya- Brahma and Adi Shankara are the Sarada is Guru Rupini; through Bengaluru and other cities in Karnataka Shankara Temple. Guru Nivas, across other temples that can be covered in the person of the Jagadguru she Bus KSRTC buses ply regularly from the river, is the dwelling place of the 2-3 hrs by auto. dispenses her grace. Sarada is the Bengaluru (320km/8-9 hr/ `120-750), pontiff of the Sringeri Mutt. Perched saguna form of the Supreme there are private buses from Mangaluru atop a hillock is the less visited Shiva THINGS TO SEE AND DO Absolute. Resplendent in alankara (100km/2-3hrs/`100-120); from Udupi temple of Bettada Malahani of matchless beauty, her impeccably (85km/ 2-3hrs/` 80-90) kareswara, popularly known as Mal One complete day with an overnight and unusually pleated sari fans out likarjuna. The Sarada Temple, the stay should suffice in Sringeri. in absolute symmetry, while her

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Prashant panjiar glowing diamond nose-ring almost Contact Office Administrator (Tel: seems to illuminate the temple. The 08265-250192, 250594; W sringeri. pilgrim is mesmerised by her divine net) for performing seva, on advance smile and would want nothing more payment than to gaze at her in humble Tip Photography, mobile phones supplication. and smoking are strictly prohibited The utsavamurti is taken in a procession around the sanctum, in a Vidya-Shankara Temple silver chariot, before the temple’s As the pilgrim enters the temple closure every night. This grand complex, the stunning sight of the ceremony is not to be missed. Vidya-Shankara Temple, with its ◆Location 1 km south of the bus majestic gopuram soaring into the stand on the main street of Sringeri sky, meets his eye. This grand temple Darshan Timings 6 am-2 pm, 4-9 was built over the mortal remains of pm; Mahamangalaarti timings: 10.30 Vidyathirtha, the teacher of am, 12.30 pm, 8.45 pm Seva There is Vidyaranya. The saint-guru of the no fee for entrance or for special founder-brothers of the Vijayanagara darshan. Sevas are between 7.30 am Empire, Harihara and Bukka, and 1 pm and 5.30 and 8.30 pm. Vidyaranya is a legendary figure in the history of Karnataka. The imposing granite structure of the Kigga Vidya-Shankara Temple looks from This is a lovely wooded small town certain angles like a chariot about to with the River Nandini nearby, 9 km commence its celestial journey. There from Sringeri. The sanctum of the are 104 sculptured images executed Sky-high: Vidya-shankar temple with its majestic gopuram Sringeswara Temple here houses a in Hoysala style. On the floor is a linga of a unique shape, with three large stone on which a circle is ◆ Location Within the same complex, structure was renovated by Puttap protuberances resembling horns — drawn with lines corresponding to by the banks of the River Tunga payya in 1621. Inside the sanctum is hence the name Sringeswara. The the shadow of the pillar as it falls Timings 7.30am-1pm, 5pm-8.30pm a large black-stone Shivling, believed temple belongs to the Vijayanagara during each month — a truly stupen Puja timings The morning and to be swayambhu. It is in this temple period and is built in granite. The Nandi dous astronomical feat. The Shivling evening pujas are conducted at both that Shri Abhinava Nrisimha Bharati idol of the temple is a fine piece of known as Vidya-Shankara, installed Vidyashankara and Mallikarjuna (1600-1623), then head of the architecture. On the Narasimha over the samadhi, is worshipped temples. Devotees can also offer Sringeri Mutt, drew a figure of Lord Parvata hillock nearby is a shrine for daily. There are five cells to house the pujas on payment. Contact Cell: Ganesha with a piece of turmeric on Narasimhadevaru, with two small images of Vidya-Ganapati, Brahma, 09818536378; Tel: 08265-250123 a pillar, and worshipped it in the sacred tanks nearby. Avoid climbing Vishnu, Mahesvara and Durga. Don’t absence of an image of the deity. the hill during the rains, as the pathway miss the broken wooden image of Mallikarjuna Temple Since that time, the outline of the is not safe. Saradamba, believed to be the This ancient temple is a shrine to god gradually bulged out in relief. You can journey to Kigga by hailing original one installed by Shankara Shiva known as Malahanikaresvara This Ganapati is called Kambada an autorickshaw which takes around charya. An ‘approved’ guide, (popularly referred to as Mallikarjuna), Ganapati — Ganapati of the pillar. 30 mins. Buses from Sringeri to Kigga identifiable by a badge, provides destroyer of the impurities of the The temple is reached by a flight of run every half hour. fluent commentary to visitors in jiva. It is reputed to be as old as the about 150 steps, which are not too Kannada and English. Ramayana. Records say that the early difficult to negotiate. The shrine

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M balan/ south india picture slowly emerges into view as you Holiness Sri Bharati Tirtha climb higher. Early mornings or late Mahaswamigal, who lives in the evenings are ideal to be at the top. Guru Nivas across the river over the Darshan is peaceful as few pilgrims Vidya Tirtha Setu. As you cross the visit the place. bridge, you enter a garden full of Tip Be wary of slippery moss during areca, coconut and fruit trees. This is the monsoons. Those unable to the sacred Narasimha Vana. An aura climb the steps can opt for autos to of holiness and peace envelops you the top through a winding, rough as you enter the garden. The River road, for a fee of `30. On Kartika Pur Tunga can be a gentle stream or a nima day, Deepothsavam is celebrated rushing torrent as and when the on a grand scale season dictates. ◆Location In the heart of town, on a Explore the garden; understand hillock Timings 7 am-1 pm, 5-8 pm that flowers and fruits are not for plucking. Tread carefully — snakes Guru Nivas may not be as kind as during the The Sringeri Mutt has always times of Shankara! The self-radiant commanded the highest veneration. Sphatika Chandramouleeswara is The present 36th Jagadguru is His kept in the guru’s personal custody, and is worshipped every day. Nearby At the renowned Sringeri Mutt are three Adhishtanams (samadhis) of past Jagadgurus. Not to be missed A bathing ghat on the river Tunga is the audience given by Sri Bharati Tirtha, himself an eminent scholar WHILE IN SRINGERI Krishi Kendra, a few metres from of the Vedas and sastras. the Sarada Temple. Personnel might ◆Timings 10.30 am-12.30 pm, 5.30- A walk through the temple town, be away on field trips but will 6.30 pm Related info If men want to which takes about 45 mins, can be a educate anyone interested in their receive the tirtha prasad (offering of rewarding experience. A walk on the bio-diesel project. holy water) from the Jagadguru, they banks of the River Tunga is must remove their upper garments exhilarating. Fishing is not allowed SHOPPING and stand in a line. Women have no here. The river should not to be pol dress code but must stand in a luted with remnants of puja Shop for Malnad specialities like separate line. materials and other litter. Enjoy a midi mango (tiny, whole mangoes) bath in the river but avoid using pickles, pure honey, amla (gooseberry) Other temples soap. A short walk behind the Guru oil, jackfruit pappad, banana chips, Chappara Anjaneya, Parsawanath Nivas takes you to the Sri Sadvidya mango and tamarind tokku (a spicy Tirthankara Jain Temple (on the Sanjeevini Sanskrit Maha Patha shala preserve). A few shops on Bharati main Bharati Street), Torana Kendra, a wood-and-tiles marvel in Street sell these (look out for large Ganapati, Kere Anjaneya, Malayala acoustics, with each classroom signboards). Handicrafts such as san Brahma and Adi Shankara are some soundproofed. This residential dalwood items make good gifts. Visit of the other holy temples that figure school for boys trains about 100 stu the Vidya Bharati Bookstall run by on the extensive itinerary of the dents to be well versed in the Vedas the mutt to pick up books, cassettes, pilgrim to Sringeri. and sastras. Try to visit the Jatropha CDs, posters and other souvenirs. Apoorva Salkade

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anurag mAllick WHERE TO EAT A number of ‘mess’-style eating places such as Akshaya Mess, Behind the Sarada Temple is the Annapurna Mess and Apoorva mutt’s huge dining hall where Mess, located on the two main pilgrims are served meals. The daily streets of the town, serve basic South annadana (free distribution of food) Indian food and snacks at reasonable is a special feature of Sringeri. It’s rates. Hot and simple food is what considered as temple prasad and so, you get. A mini-thali includes rice, wasting of food is frowned upon. sambhar, rasam and vegetables Basic food consisting of rice, huli, (chappati on request) for about `40. saru (curry made with lentils and Only veg food is served. vegetables), and buttermilk, is served Hotel Sannidhi, at the end of twice a day on shining stainless steel Bharati Street, and Kamat plates, in the scrupulously clean Restaurant, on Mallikarjuna Street, dining hall. The modern kitchen, are recommended for snacks. These where rice is steam-cooked, can cater are fairly clean and dish out standard to 3,000 pilgrims daily. All are fare at reasonable rates. Don’t miss welcome. There is no dress code. It is their good, typical South Indian recommended that devotees have at filter coffee. Service is quick and least one meal here for it is essential friendly. Set-dosa, a plate of four to the experience of a pilgrimage. small, spongy dosas served with butter, chutney and sambhar, is a A refreshing drink while temple hopping speciality not to be missed. Garlic- free dishes are served on request. Red chutney in the masala dosa usually has garlic, as does the rasam served with the meals. Narthaki Bar, located on the Horanadu diseases in plants and animals can be ground floor of Hotel Shubhodhaya Horanadu is nestled in a picturesque treated with it. on Bharati Street, is an unpretentious setting of forests and hills. The The Kaleshwar Temple dedicated to joint that serves alcoholic drinks, Annapurnesvari Temple here, 8 km from Shiva is on a hillock, 4 km from Horanadu. veg and non-veg food. The ambience Silent Valley Resort, is a popular pilgrim Another half a kilometre further is the is not too great but the food is destination. Annadana is performed twice Girijamba Temple, which holds a 3-day reasonably good. a day with basic food of rice, saru, huli and Girija Kalyanotsav festival celebrating the buttermilk. According to legend, Sage marriage of Kaleshwar and Girijamba just WHERE TO STAY Agasthya installed the idol here. The after Diwali. A gold idol, kept in the temple was renovated in 1675. A new idol Mudigere treasury, is taken out every year The Sringeri Mutt offers as many as of Adisakti has been installed in the for this festival. 500 rooms in its guest house, and sanctum. The shrine has unusual rituals Horanadu can be accessed by buses dormitory accommoda tion in — there is puja only in the afternoon and at and taxis from Sringeri. Private buses run dharamshalas, which can be booked night, except in December when puja is every 1 to 11/2 hrs from the bus stand at the Tourist Reception Centre (Tel: performed thrice a day. The kumkum used through the day. Taxis charge `1,200 for 08265-250123, 250594; Tariff: `100- here for worship has medicinal value and the return trip. Prashant panjiar

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shutterstock shutterstock style toilets are available. Hot water is available only in the morning. Room service is a tad bit slow. The restaurant, Hotel Sannidhi, is one floor below, and serves hot and delicious South Indian food and lip- smacking snacks.

For more details, see Sringeri Accommo dation Listings on page 444

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Agumbe (28 km) This verdant high-altitude village set in seclusion in the rainforests of the gorgeous Western Ghats in Shimoga district offers a lavish A man standing near a waterfall in Agumbe banquet of nature’s bounty all year round. Agumbe’s numerous This entire belt including the reserve waterfalls come into their full glory forests around Kundapur, in this vast swathe of biodiversity Shankaranarayana, Hosanagara, A devotee being blessed by the temple elephant during the monsoon, so if you are Sringeri and Thirthahalli falls under looking to enjoy these wondrous the umbrella of the Agumbe 1,000) near the entrance of the bed, fan and often a shared bath sights on a sunny day, do have a Rainforest Complex and forms one temple complex. The rooms are room/ toilet. Bed linen may not care for the slippery terrain on the of the largest remaining contiguous spartan. You can get a Western toilet meet your standards — so carry way. Of particular beauty are the forest stretches in the country. This on request only. Bed sheets and your own. Hot water is supplied on thunderous Onake Abbi, Bakarna stunning landscape is a huge draw blankets are provided, but no soap or request. Service is friendly. Tariffs and Jogi Gundi falls. Stunning views for trekkers. Come prepared for towel. The fastidious are advised to range from `300-700. A double bed of these lush surrounds can be had leeches and sudden downpours and carry bed sheets and pillow-covers, room comes with an attached from the very popular Sunset View cobra sightings, as Agume is India’s as cleanliness cannot be guaranteed. bathroom, which again leaves much Point. Devotees throng to the nearby famed cobra capital. The Agumbe Hot water is available for a limited to be desired. Sri Venugopala Krishna Swamy Rainforest Research Station has been time in the mornings. Consumption The best bet is the Hotel Shubho Temple while wildlife buffs head for pivotal in pioneering the world’s of alcohol is not permitted. Stay is dhaya (Cell: 09480947162) at the the Someshwara Wildlife Sanctuary first radio-telemetry project on the allowed only for a maximum of end of Bharati Street, about 1 km in the high season for tiger-spotting. King Cobra. n three days. There is no system of from the Saradamba Temple. The advance reservation and this facility rooms are on the second floor, some is on a first-come-first-served basis with a good view of the river and for visitors and pilgrims alike. the hills. They are clean, as are the #Awesomekarnataka There are options like Giri Lodge sheets and blankets with good (Tel: 250485), on Bharati Street, mattresses and though there is no which offer basic facilities like a AC, fans, cable TV and Western-

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real nature, as he (Shiva) is seen in the deity here is known as this temple in female form, Vishnu Mookambika, the mother of Mooka. replies, “Listen, O Indra, the male Another legend says that a small and female are eternal principles of portion of the sanjeevani that the universe. Yet they are never Hanuman was carrying for the separate. They are as gold and the unconscious Lakshmana fell upon ornaments made out of it.” this hill, even now home to many healing herbs. It is also said that Adi LEGENDS AND MYTHOLOGY Shankara performed penance on the hills of Kodachadri, 40 km from Sage Kola, from whom Kollur derives Kollur. He wished to take the Mother its name, was bestowed with a Goddess to Kalady’s repentant powerful, wish-fulfilling linga. He people, for he had cursed their built a hut over it and worshipped it small-mindedness when he had throughout his life. According to returned to Kalady to perform his legend, Shukracharya, the guru of mother’s funeral rites. The Mother asuras, predicted the demise of Goddess appeared before him and Kumbhasura, a terrible demon, at said she would follow him to Kalady

Photographs by prashant panjiar the hands of a woman. Sage Kola, with the stipulation that he would Pilgrims at the Mookambika Temple, which was built over a millennia ago along with other holy men and not look back to see if she was divinities, prayed to the Mother following. If he did, she would stop Goddess for succour. Meanwhile, at that very spot. Shankara walked Kumbhasura began severe austerities ahead, reassured by the sound of kollur to propitiate Shiva, who appeared to KOLAPURA: SAGE KOLA’S HOME bless him with the immortality he sought. However, the Mother ■ DBN Murthy and Vimala Murthy Adi Shankara installed the idol of Goddess struck him dumb (mooka) Mookambika in Kollur about 1,200 before he could ask for his boon. hat sets Kollur apart from years ago. The small, square sanctum Now called Mookasura (dumb other places of pilgrimage? sanctorum also houses the egg- demon), the infuriated asura began a FAST FACTS WFamed as one of the most shaped Udbhava-Jyothir (self- renewed reign of terror. The Mother When to go Anytime throughout the sacred sites in Karnataka, it’s located manifested and effulgent) linga, Goddess appeared again and this year, though the monsoon months (Jun- in stunningly beautiful surroundings, with the Suvarna Rekha (golden time a fierce battle ensued and she Sep) can be very wet reminding one of the evocative streak), dividing the visible portion killed the wicked Mookasura at a Tourist office imagery of red earth and pouring of the linga into two parts, the left place called Maranakatte (marana is ● Office of the Assistant Director rain. Lush green forests, windswept being larger than the right, said to death and katte is platform) near Department of Tourism towering hills, enchanting waterfalls uniquely connote the immutable Kollur. However, just before he died, Deputy Commissioner Office Complex, and gurgling rivers make Kollur — nature of Shiva and Shakti. It is Mookasura repented his misdeeds Rajathadri, A-Block, 2nd Floor, most of which is protected as the believed that Goddess Mookambika, and, in humble supplication, begged Manipal, Udupi Mookambika Wildlife Sanctuary — the presiding deity, merged with the the Mother Goddess to stay Tel: 0820-2574868 (AD Office) an extraordinary experience for not linga to bless her devotees. permanently in Kollur. He also asked Cell: 08762444986 (DTC) only the devout but also for nature In the Skanda Purana, when that his name be remembered along STD code 0820 lovers as well. Indra asks Vishnu to explain Shiva’s with hers henceforth. It is thus that

284 Karnataka Karnataka 285 Western Ghats kollur

alamy images / india picture her anklets, which ceased at Kollur. the temple say it was first built in He turned around and she remained 1218 by one Venkanna-samanta, here thereafter. son-in-law of Sankanna-samanta, who belonged to the family of the ARCHITECTURE AND ANTIQUITY rulers of Banki. The fort of the rulers of Banki was in Halakallu, about The temple, excepting the sanctum, three miles from Kollur. However, which is much older, dates back to the temple has been renovated and the 12th or 13th century. Inscriptions added upon many times since. What on the walls of the inner prakara of we see today belongs largely to the Nayak period (1629-1697). The Vijayanagara rulers, great devotees of Goddess Mookambika, contributed considerably to the wealth of the temple and its popularity. getting there ORIENTATION Air Nearest Airport: Bajpe Airport, 1 Mangaluru (105km/3 /2hr). Taxi to Sri A large ornate gateway welcomes Mookambika Temple costs `3,500- visitors to the temple town of Kollur. 4,600; Private bus fare from Mangaluru The beautiful River Souparnika flows Souparnika River, originating in Kodachadri Hills, flows by Kollur to Kollur is `156. a kilometre north of the Mookambika Rail Nearest Railhead: Byndoor Temple. From the bus stand (2 km to Kollur draws many practitioners of Nearby is Saraswati Mantap, the Mookambika Road Railway Station the north) to the temple, Tantra too. very spot at which Adi Shankara is (30km/45min) is connected by direct autorickshaws can be hired for `10- Behind the linga, on a raised believed to have composed the trains like Netravati, Matsyagandha, 15. The guest houses and the bazaar platform, is the large panchaloha superb hymn, the Soundarya-Lahari. Poorna, Coimbatore-Jabalpur Express, are about a 100m away from the bus (five precious metals) icon of the Artistes come here to seek Saraswati’s etc to all the major cities on the Konkan stand and a comfortable walk from four-armed Mookambika, considered blessings. At the Chowdeswari Railway line. Taxi fare from railway the temple. Footwear stands are to be one of the best in the country. Temple, to the north, is the station to Temple is `700-900 available outside the temple for a The deity looks as she appeared in kshetrapalani (the female divinity Road Kollur is well connected by road small fee. Adi Shankara’s vision. Seated in the that protects the holy temple). In to Bengaluru, Mangaluru, Kundapur and lotus posture, she carries the chakra the outer ambulatory passage, apart other cities in Karnataka Bus KSRTC THINGS TO SEE AND DO (discus) and sankha (conch) in her from several kinds of interesting Volvo bus are available only till two upper hands, and holds her smaller shrines, a magnificient Kundapur. Bengaluru-Kundapur (9-10 One full day with an overnight halt other two hands in the gesture of golden chariot is on display. hr/`465-1,058), Mangaluru-Kundapur should suffice at Kollur. abhaya mudra (protection) and The puja rituals are a combination (2hr/`97-353). From Kundapur one has varada mudra (boon-bestowal). It is of Vedic and Tantric rites. Devotees to take a private bus to Sri Mookambika Mookambika Temple an image of exquisite beauty. enter the sanctum in orderly queues. Temple, Kollur. Private buses ply The gurgling of a mountain stream In the outer ambulatory passage Kollur is free of touts or pujaris regularly on Kundapur-Hemmadi route; in the background rings in the ears is a shrine to Veerabhadra Swamy. hassling the pilgrims. Everything is Bus fare from Mangaluru: `156 of the pilgrim as he enters the revered He is the kshetrapala, the protector clean, orderly and systematic. Mookambika Temple. One of the of the temple. The Subrahmanya ◆ Location 2 km north of bus stand major Shakti shrines in the country, Swamy Temple is on the other side. and 100m north of bazaar and guest

286 Karnataka Karnataka 287 Western Ghats kollur houses Timings 5am-7:15am, (performed with a medicinal 7:45am-11:30am, 12pm-12:20pm, decoction prepared from spices and 12:45pm-1:30pm, 3pm-5pm, herbs) and kashaya neivedya 5pm-9pm Temple Tel 08254-258521- distribution (7.30-8.30 pm). A tirtha 2/ 221 W mookambikatemple.org bottle costs `5 at the counter. The Sevas and darshan Special darshan Rathotsava (chariot festival) in Apr- (ticket: `25) is through the sacred May, Onam in Sep and the exultant west (Shankara) gate, from where Adi nine-day Navaratri festival draw great Shankara is said to have first stepped crowds. In Nov-Dec there is a special into the temple. Dantadhavana (a Vanabhojana (forest-food) Habba ritual ablution) puja is performed at (festival), when the alankara of the 7 am followed by Udaya (dawn) puja devi is very special and the Souparnika at 7.30 am. Pradosha mangalaarti River and the forest are worshipped (popularly called the salaam mangal Tip Men must remove their upper aarti as Tipu Sultan, ruler of Mysore, garment while entering the sanctum. saluted the devi with a salaam during Cell phones and photography are his visit to Kollur) is held between not allowed inside 7.15 and 7.30 pm. Mahamangalaarti is at 12.30 and 7.30 pm. A unique Other temples feature is the kashaya mangalaarti A pujari will perform the puja for the vana (forest) devatas and devis at Colourful masks and dolls at Kollur Bazaar Mookambika Temple’s Shakti shrines Masti Katte, 2 km north of the Mookambika Temple, within 5m of cleansing experience. Just walking WHERE TO EAT the main road, and explain their along the Souparnika River, with its significance. An autorickshaw can be clear waters, can be very relaxing. The daily annadana (free food) takes engaged for the round-trip (`30). The There is a self-operated rain gauge as place in the dining hall inside the Balamuri Ganapati Temple (open 5 well as a conventional one at the Mookambika Temple complex, to am-1.30 pm, 3-9.30 pm), 10m to the PWD Inspection Bungalow (near the the west. The meal comprises of rice, west of the Mookambika Temple, in guest houses), which is worth a brief sambhar, saru (rasam), payasa (kheer, a side lane, houses a beautiful, white visit. Sri Ramachandra Mutt, with its in the morning only), vegetable marble idol of Lord Ganesha, set at a lovely Amruthadhara Goshala, is curry and buttermilk. Rice is cooked higher level so that devotees may 61/2 km east of the temple (`70-100 in five huge 100 kg containers by easily witness all the pujas. This by an autorickshaw). steam heating. temple is also known as Beedhi ◆ Timings 11.30am-2pm, 7.45-9.30 (Street) Ganapati. SHOPPING pm A number of restaurants and WHILE IN KOLLUR A few Malnad and Kerala specialities cafés in the bazaar, north of the like appam (soft, deep-fried jaggery temple and within 300m, serve veg The scenic beauty of Kollur makes sweet), pineapple, khajur (fig) and South Indian snacks and food. visiting it a delightful experience. A banana halwa taste great and are Eateries in this area, like Hotel Sri bath in the roga nivarini (remover of worth buying in the shops of the Akshaya, Hotel Devi Dharshini, Sri ill-health, as the water flows through bazaar. Pick up bottles of honey for Mookambika Canteen, Hotel forests of herbs) River Souparnika is a family and friends. Reshma and Hotel Vishwas provide

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Tariff: `1,600-5,124), which offers 18 rooms. Mookambika Palace (Tel: 258560; Tariff: `2,239-4,000 + breakfast) has 36 comfortable rooms. Smaller private hotels are located about a 5-10 min walk from the temple and are located in the bazaar, north of the main temple.

For more hotels see Kollur Accommodation Listings on page 440

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Kodachadri Hills (40 km E) Equated in greatness to the Sanjeevani Parvata that Hanuman carried for A security guard poses for the camera the wounded Lakshmana, a part of which is said to have fallen here, the months are considerably tougher name Kodachadri is derived from with the added hazards of leeches kutaja, a medicinal plant found in and roadblocks. Allow at least half Elephants are considered holy here abundance here. Today, drug a day, if not longer for this manufacturing units source medicinal spectacular trip. veg thali meals for about `20. Devi 400m north of the Mookambika plants and shrubs from here. The Dharshini is recommended for Temple is Lalithambika (Tel: 258328; life-giving Souparnika River takes its Maranakatte (21 km) slightly better food and cleanliness. Tariff: `200-600), a modern guest birth from this holy spot. Among the It’s considered auspicious for a Note: All directions refer to the house, built recently and in good holiest places in Kodachadri is the pilgrim to first visit Maranakatte observer facing the Sri Mookambika condition. The bed linen is clean. Sarvagna Peetha, where Adi Shankara before having a darshan of Goddess Temple (sanctum) or the bus stand. Extra sheets are provided on request. meditated. From here, the view of Mookambika (see Legends and Hot water is supplied on request and the surroundings areas, including Mythology on pages 285-286). The WHERE TO STAY payment. AC rooms (with TV and the Jog Falls, Arabian Sea, Kollur Brahma Kunda stream, flowing north geyser) are also available. There is a Town and the forests is of this temple, enhances its scenic The temple authorities provide canteen on the ground floor that breathtaking. beauty. It would be best to visit en decent accommodation to pilgrims serves coffee, tea, snacks and thali The journey up the mountains to route Mookambika if travelling by in their guest houses. Allotment of meals. Other guest houses include Kodachadri is not easy. Only jeeps taxi, or hire one later to get here. rooms is strictly on a first-come-first- the reasonably clean Mata Chatra ply on this route. The monsoon ◆Timings 6 am-1.30 pm, 3-8.30 pm ■ served basis. These guest houses (two (Tel: 258221; Tariff: `200), and floors, no lift) are a 10-min walk Souparnika (Tel: 258221; Tariff: north from the Mookambika Temple. `150-300). #Awesomekarnataka Do not expect much by way of There are also many private service or cleanliness. Swarnambika lodges, including the excellent (Tel: 08254-258221), situated near Abimon Residency International the bus stand, is very basic. About Boutique Hotel (Tel: 258544;

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like an American town with wide open spaces and low buildings, it’s a pleasant place to stay but doesn’t have very many tourist spots. Most places to see around have their own dots on the map, which means a lot of driving. So this holiday is best done with your own car. If you are

FAST FACTS

When to go Avoid March and April. Besides a general lack of colour in this dry season, many places are closed to nji a r pa visitors due to the danger of forest fires Wildlife/Tourist Offices ● Dy Conservator of Forests Kudremukh Wildlife Division Karkalla Tel: 08258-298183 P hotographs by Pr a sh nt W myecotrip.com KUDREMUKH Tea bushes at Kudremukh STD code 08258 ● Office of the Assistant Director THE MOCHA MOUNTAINS petrol pump attendant will Department of Tourism immediately slip into a first world Vimal Niwas Bldg., Near Kote Circle, ■ ANURADHA KUMAR and white blossoms in Kudremukh. act. Wiping hands, he will don Belur Road, SUSHEELA NAIR With no apparent effort, the land disposable plastic gloves and proceed Chikamagaluru here grows coffee, palms, cardamom to serve excellent machine-brewed Tel: 08262-228493 n the route to Kudremukh and mango, with quite a few hills stuff in golden yellow Coffee Day Cell: 09481311946 (DTC) it’s a good idea to keep the also given over to mosaic-like tea cups that have spill-proof lids on STD code 08262 Odriver caffeinated, though plantations. Kudremukh is a them. The price makes a statement ● Range Forest Officer it’ll always be the scenery that’ll landscape designed entirely by rain too; coffee is cheaper than tea in Kudremukh NP wake up the senses here. As you go and there is an ease to life in these these parts. Wildlife Range beyond Chikkamagaluru and to the parts that is obvious in the freshly Kudremukh windward side of the Malnad coffee painted villages and the clean THINGS TO SEE AND DO Chikamagaluru hills, the difference in the scenery streets. Tel: 08263-255998 would be apparent. Coffee trees that But nature is not the only Kudremukh town was set up entirely STD codes 08263 Kudremukh, 08262 still await the first shower in performer in these parts. Ask for by the Kudremukh Iron Ore Chikamagaluru, 08258 Karkala Chikkamagaluru are drenched in coffee on this drive and your taciturn Company Limited (KIOCL). Built

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people (Tariff: `4,400-6,000, dorm `1,750 + meals; TE pp) Entry, trek and guide charges are inclusive with the room tariff. The best hotel to base yourself, though, is located in Kalasa (see getting there below). Air Nearest airport: Bajpe Airport, Mangaluru (100km/2 hrs). Taxi from AROUND KUDREMUKH Mangaluru to Kudremukh NP costs `1,500-2,000 Kalasa (20 km) Rail Nearest railhead: Mangaluru Kalasa is a small town encircled by a (100km/2 hrs). Bus fare from Mangaluru host of interesting places to visit. to Kudremukh NP is `100 Topping the list are the Panchatirtha, Road One can drive from Mangaluru the five sacred ponds. Rudra Tirtha via Karkalla to Kudremukh NP is 5 km from Silent Valley Resort. (100km/2-3 hrs) Bus From Mangaluru Vasishtha Tirtha (6 km), Amba (100km/2hrs) private buses ply regularly Tirtha (8 km) Varaha Tirtha (30 km) on this route. Fare: Private bus `100. and Naga Tirtha (35 km). Close to Kudremukh is 350 km from Bengaluru Amba Tirtha is a huge boulder called and 95km from Chikamagalur. Bheemana Kallu that bears a Sanskrit inscription stating that Sri Madhava Hanuman Gundi water falls inside the forest (left); Recovering Bhadra River (right) charya (the founder of the Dvaita the huge restaurant overlooks the School of philosophy) brought and pool. There is one dorm here. hiring one, go for a sturdy vehicle as Bhagawathi Nature Camp, placed it here with one hand. The Also in Kalasa is the Thotadur roads are bad in parts. (Bengaluru Reservation Tel: 080- Kalasa trip is done easiest if you are Yathri Nivas (Tel: 274699; Cell: 40554055). The camp closes during based at Silent Valley Corporate 09448007014; Tariff: `500-990), Kudremukh Peak the dry season. Inside the forest are Resort (Tel: 08263-274801-02; Tariff: which has a vegetarian restaurant At 6,214 ft, this peak which means Hanuman Gundi Waterfalls (16 `4,000-6,000, dorm `1,300 per and arranges trekking and the ‘horse-face hill’ falls before the km) and Gangamoola (12 km), person, with all meals), a hotel set sightseeing. town and requires a small hike up. where the Tunga, Bhadra and amidst wonderfully natural On a very, very clear day the blue Netravathi rivers originate, a scenic surroundings, and also a good base Horanadu (28 km) edge of the Arabian Sea is visible spot one can trek up to. for visits to Kudremukh. The Bhadra (details, see Sringeri page 272) from there. The peak is closed to River is just 6 km from here. All the visitors in March and April. WHERE TO STAY AND EAT rooms here are individual cottages, For details, see Accommodation Listings quite pretty and self-sufficient and on page 440 n Kudremukh National Park The Bhagwati Nature Camp The park, 10 km from the town, (Bengaluru Reservations Tel: 080- consists mostly of evergreen 40554055; Tariff: `1,711-2,242 + rainforests and is extremely beautiful. meals, forest entry charges, activities) #Awesomekarnataka But forests here are so thick that big is located inside the Kudremukh game sightings are rare. Inside the National Park. The camp has 12 park, you can stay at Jungle Lodges rooms and dorm that sleeps 14

294 Karnataka Karnataka 295 Western Ghats CHIKMAGALUR

makes for a great souvenir for folks with the legendary peak was not to and friends back home. This be easy. However, plans were made ‘younger daughter’s city’ (which is for an early morning drive, followed what Chikkamagaluru means) was by an eventful trek, to catch those given as dowry by the local hotshot spectacular views for which it was chieftain Rukmangada Raya of equally famed. Sakrepatna. In his lordly fashion he Never, but never make the mistake bequeathed another parcel of land, of thinking that the hike up to nearby Hiremagalur — famous for Mullaiyanagiri will be a cakewalk, its ancient Kodanda-Ramaswamy particularly in the rainy months. In Temple — as part of dowry to his the warmer months, the hike up is ‘elder daughter’. The devout, as a relatively easy and the views matter of fact, find scenic spectacular. Camp here for the night Chikkamagaluru a nice little base (the temple priest might even for visits to the legendary Hoysala arrange a quick meal for you) and temple sites Halebid and Belur, a you’ll find the stars look close short haul of about 40 km away. It’s enough to touch. Chikkamagaluru also the perfect springboard for below is a tangle of glittering tinsel enjoying treks to various nearby laid out against the black velvet

anurag mallick peaks, waterfalls and the famous night. A day after Diwali, the Chikkamagaluru is nature’s nirvana Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary. Mulappaswamy Temple doors are thrown open for thousands of THINGS TO SEE AND DO devotees trekking up for a darshan CHIKKAMAGALURU and the magic lamp-lighting Mullaiyanagiri ceremony. You need a 4WD to get IN COFFEE COUNTRY Ever since friends and acquaintances in Bengaluru learnt I was headed out ■ RANEE SAHANEY plantations, this is where the for Chikkamagaluru…the name aromatic beverage was first Mullaiyanagiri seemed to resonate he cicadas’ songs rise to a introduced to India by a saintly Sufi the strongest…stronger than the crescendo as twilight steals mystic from Yemen, known as Baba cups of coffee I was to down all the Tacross the skies. The drizzle Budan, who migrated here in the way to this beautiful coffee belt. FAST FACTS has eased off and only a tender 17th century. Mullaiyanagiri (25 km from town), When to go September to February are breeze wafts through the massive Chikkamagaluru is an important Karnataka’s highest peak at 6,332 ft the most temperate months banyan tree overlooking my lovely hub for the planters who’ve been with its ancient, but newly renovated, Tourist office villa with its own private splash immersed in the business of coffee Mullapaswamy Temple (raised to ● Office of the Assistant Director pool. I am at The Serai production. It, thus, also offers Lord Shiva), was wrapped in a gauzy Department of Tourism Chikkamagaluru resort, soaking in visitors the luxury of choosing their veil of mist and drizzle when I swept Vimal Niwas Bldg., Near Kote Circle, the slumbering silences and soothing own ideal blend of coffee and into town. So to me all the hype of Belur Road, Chikamagalur green, calm and rested and chicory at any one of the numerous this sky-kissing wonder seemed to be Tel: 08262-228493 ruminating over my many options curing outlets where the raw coffee a figment of the collective Cell: 09481311946 (DTC) for exploring Chikkamagaluru is dried, shelled, winnowed, graded imagination. And the afternoon’s STD code 08262 District. Home to endless coffee and packed, ready to be marketed. It drenching rain indicated that a tryst

296 Karnataka Karnataka 297 Western Ghats CHIKMAGALUR

anurag mallick Surrounded by great swathes of coffee plantations, the holy shrine of the Baba attracts devotees, both Muslim and Hindu. Hindu devotees believe that the Baba is an incarnation of Sri Dattatreya Swamy. Come here getting there in the summer months when the Rail Chikkmagaluru Railway Station is 2-km track from the holy shrine to connected to Bengaluru by the Manyakyadhara Waterfalls is Chikkmagaluru-Yesvantpur Fast more accessible to visitors. Every 12 passenger train. However, Birur Jn (46 years the hills are a purple-hued km/ 1 hr) is a better option. Indica taxi mass under the weight of the to Chikkamagaluru: `8-10/km Good blossoming wild kurinji flowers. train options are the Janshatabdi Express from Bengaluru City and the SHOPPING Bengaluru Express from Birur Road Most people prefer to drive down Choose your own blend of coffee to Chikkmagaluru to explore the district and chicory at any one of the F&G at will. From Bengaluru, head for (Fresh and Ground) Café Coffee Day Hassan via Kunigal and Channaraya curing unit outlets dotting the patna. Where the main market ends at marketplace, as well as Panduranga Hassan, turn right to catch the state Dattatreya peeth shrine is located in the Baba Budangiri Hills Coffee Works, one of the oldest and highway to Chikkmagaluru. Bus KSRTC finest coffee roasters in the town has a Volvo service (`451-479) to and part of the way to the peak and the mystic, Hazrat Dada Hayath Mir (established 1938), on MG Road. from Chikkamagaluru rest of the journey is to be done on Khalander. Baba Budan, as the mystic foot. The narrow hilly trail (punctu came to be known in these parts, left WHERE TO STAY AND EAT ated by the Seetala Mallikarjuna Arabia in 1650 with seven coffee kHomestay (Cell: 09844042152; Temple — a Shiva shrine) can be beans and settled in a cave in the There are two luxury hotels around Tariff: `3,500 + meals pp) in the slippery and scary if it’s been raining. Chandra Drona Parvatha along with town — The Serai Hotel & Spa Bynekhan and El Dorado coffee And the 350-odd steps (about 3 km a few companions. It was the Baba (Cell: 09686445488; Tariff: `24,320- plantations which arranges treks from Seetalayanagiri) leading to the who first introduced coffee to the 78,720; +breakfast and The Gateway and more. Pakshikoota Homestay Mulappaswamy Temple at the top Indian soil. In the colonial days in Hotel (Tel: 08262-215000; Tariff: (Cell: 09448618366; Tariff: `2,200 + seem to disappear in the mist. With the early 1800s, enterprising `9,500-10,500). Less expensive meals pp) is close to town. no parapet to protect you along the Britishers broke more ground by options are The Planters’ Court way it can be a daunting affair even setting up vast expanses of coffee (Tel: 235884-85; Tariff: `2,200-2,400; For more details, see Accommodation for the most experienced trekker. cultivation, which continue to be TE), and the Nature Nirvana Listings on pages 433-434 n nurtured by Indian planter families Baba Budanagiri Hills to this day. Plump for a stay in one of The Baba Budanagiri Hills (earlier the several homestays on offer by called Chandra Drona Parvatha) are coffee planters. Try Nature Nirvana #Awesomekarnataka 25 km from Chikkamagaluru town Homestay (see Where to Stay and Eat and also home to the cave shrine on page 299), which is in close (Dattatreya Peeth) raised to the Sufi proximity to the serene Sufi shrine.

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visitors almost everything a full- filled with sweetmeats and coconut, fledged hill station does. There’s the so heavy it lands with a thud in Rock Garden within the guest your belly. house premises maintained by the Horticulture Department. The For details, see Kemmannagundi Kallahati Falls (10 km) drop from a Accommodation Listings on pages 439- height of 122m and are quite pretty. 440 n It’s a lovely place for a picnic lunch. You could take a short trek to the Hebbe Falls (8 km), but don’t attempt swimming here. And then there’s Z Point, a good place from which to watch sunsets. Its very popular with trekkers. The Information ◆ Garden timings 9.30 am-5 pm When to go Just after the rains, from mid-September to February WHERE TO STAY AND EAT Tourist office ● Office of the Assistant Director

Courtesy wikipedia In Kemmannagundi proper, the Department of Tourism Hebbe Falls is a glorious sight in the monsoons hilltop Horticulture Department Vimal Niwas Bldg., Near Kote Circle, Guest House (Tel: 08261-237126; Belur Road, Chikamagalur Bengaluru Reservations Director of Tel: 08262-228493 Horticulture, Lalbagh Bengaluru Tel: Cell: 09481311946 (DTC) KEMMANNAGUNDI 080-26579231; Tariff: `1,500-2,000; W karnatakatourism.org, A MONARCH’S RETREAT TE, dorm `2,000) is the only option. STD code 08261 Most of the rooms here are ordinary Getting There AIR: Nearest Airport: ■ ANURADHA KUMAR Krishna Rajendra Wodeyar IV made and provide the barest facilities. But Mangaluru International Airport, Bajpe it his summer haven in 1932. It’s Raj Bhawan (Tel: 08261-237126; (150 km/ 5hrs) is well connected to he way to Kemmannagundi is compact charms — views, waterfalls, Tariff: `1,500-2,500), right on top, major metros by Air India, Spice Jet and planted with enough gardens, all in a day’s work — make has fantastic views and adequately Indigo Taxi for Kemmannagundi cost Tcompelling road signs to it one of the most fun-filled short furnished large rooms. Located a few around `10-15/km waylay innocent tourists into some holidays from hectic Bengaluru. kilometres away from the town, RAIL: Nearest Railhead: Birur Jn (35 other, seemingly more tempting Ozone Valley (Tel: 215078; Cell: km/ 1 1/4 hr) is connected to major holiday. But if you stick firmly to THINGS TO SEE AND DO 09448971207, 09448727717; Tariff: metros and cities. Taxis to your path, skirting the tangential `2,000 + meals pp) is a beautiful hill Kemmannagundi as above charms of Halebid and Belur, the Views of sprawling coffee estates resort amidst coffee plantations. ROAD: From Bengaluru head for Chikkamagaluru coffee estates, and shaded with silver oaks stream past The food served at the Horticulture Kemmannagundi via Bhadravathi Main the distant road to Kudremukh, the car window. The Horticulture Department’s Guest House in Road and Tarikere Bus From Bengaluru you’ll reach a hill that was once Department Guest House is thick Kemmannagundi is not all that KSRTC services Chikkamagaluru (`243- preferred by a monarch. with flowers that invite you to put great. If you are with kids, bring 634) from where you can catch a Kemmannagundi is actually a single, your feet up and unwind. along snacks because there are no private bus to Bhajabundangiri; jeeps/ secluded hill that’s been successfully The 4,705-foot-high Krishna shops nearby. Try dilpasand from taxis are available to Kemmannagundi posing as a hill station ever since Rajendra Hill manages to provide its any roadside stall. This is bread

300 Karnataka Karnataka 301 Western Ghats Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary

Earlier known as the Jagar Valley you head to the Honnala checkpost, Game Reserve, it now comprises 492 the sanctuary’s main entry point. The sq km and was reconstituted as the other entry is the Muthodi Gate. Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary in 1974 There is a distance of 2km between by the Karnataka Government. It the two and it is in this part that you was brought under Project Tiger as will find the Forest Range Office the Bhadra Tiger Reserve in 1998. (Muthodi village). There is another Located in Chikmaglur and Shimoga route that offers amazing views of the Districts in the verdant folds of the Baba Budanagiri range and its lush Western Ghats the Reserve offers environs. Down the Tarikere Road, plenty of opportunities to explore just 6km away from Chik-magalur, is and enjoy this magical world — be the Kymara Junction. Past coffee it through trekking or by going on a estates and up the Baba Budanagiri jungle safari. incline, you reach Kavikalgundi. Teak The Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary is plantations, a legacy of the British, home to not just the tiger and can be seen in Jagara village, which elephant, but to the panther, bison, is located in the immediate vicinity sloth bear, wild dog, flying squirrel of the wild-life sanctuary.

Photographs Courtesy Wikipedia (including the giant Indian squirrel) The mist-covered Chandra Drona A majestic tiger caught unawares in a clearing and wild boar. It also has over 120 mountains (also part of the Baba species of flora, such as teak, rose- Budanagiri range) form a horseshoe- wood, mathi, honne, nandi, tadasalu shaped boundary around Bhadra; it Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary and kindal. About 200 species of birds are tiger country found here, such as the singing shama, southern tree pie, Malabar ■ RANEE SAHANEY and coconut palms. We stop to take snaps whistling thrush, quaker babbler, SUNAAD RAGHURAM of the lofty 300-year-old teak tree, yellow bulbul, black-winged kite, known as the Jagara Giant, whose king vulture, great horned owl, great FAST FACTS he rain, sometimes a veil of girth is a whopping 5.21m, and one pied hornbill and black-naped blue When to go From October–December gentle drizzle, sometimes an of the attractions of the sanctuary. flycatcher. Unfortunately, poaching and March–June Tenthusiastic downpour, Crocodile bark trees (yes they really of flora (some of the most exotic and Wildlife/ Forest Dept offices accompanies us all the way on the have the look and feel of a croc’s prized timbers, such as rosewood and ● Deputy Conservator of Forests drive to the Bhadra River and its back!) dot the landscape along with teak grow here) and fauna, especially Bhadra Wildlife Division (Project Tiger) wildlife sanctuary set in the mount exotic and expensive timbers such as in areas close to the plantations, is a Chikkamagaluru ainous region of Malnad (Malenaadu) rosewood, sandalwood and teak. growing problem here. Tel: 08262-234904 — Karnataka’s tropical paradise. Wild turmeric carpets the edge of the ● Department of Tourism Swathes of darkling coffee plantations, dirt track in parts. The trail is littered orientation Govt of Karnataka backed by the mist-shirred, emerald with storm-strewn branches as we Email: [email protected] mountaintops of the iconic Baba bounce deeper into the forested Bhadra Widlife Sanctuary can be W karnatakatourism.org Budanagiri Range yield, reluctantly terrain — the young helper in the reached from Chikkamagaluru W karnatakaholidays.net almost, to cultivated fields of potatoes, jeep battles these and the hungry (23km away) via the small towns of STD code 08262 marigold, arecanut, sugarcane and leeches without turning a hair. Joldal and Mallandur, from where

302 Karnataka Karnataka 303 Western Ghats Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary

Where to stay and eat

The Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary has two forest rest houses, which can be booked at the office of the Deputy Conservator of Forests in Chikma- getting there galur. The Muthodi Nature Camp Air Nearest airport: Bajpe Airport, (Tel: 08262-234904; Tariff: `1,000, Mangaluru (160km/3-4hrs); Bengaluru dorm `2,400), located in the forest, International Airport (240km/3-4hrs); has two tents and two dorms (each Taxi from Mangaluru to Chikamagalur with eight beds). The dorms can costs `3,500; KSRTC bus fare is `160; accommodate more people, but you from Bengaluru, KSRTC Volvo bus fare will need your supply of pillows, is `500 bedsheets and blankets. For food, Rail Nearest railhead: Mysuru (160 km/ you could ask the caretaker to prepare 3-4 hrs) is well connected to all major meals. There are no fancy restaurants cities. Bus from Mysuru to in Bhadra, so be prepared to rough it Chikamagalur costs `160. Taxi fare is out. However, there are many hotels `3,500. Fare from Chikamagalur to and restaurants in Chikkamagaluru Bhadra WLS (32kms) by a jeep or a and outside the sanctuary. The JLR- taxi would be around `1,000-1500. run River Tern Lodge (Tel: 08261- Road From Bengaluru via Hassan; then 215425; Tariff: `14,800 + meals, 2 drive via Joldal and Mallandur to An Indian bison grazes at the vegetation safaris) is one of the better options. Chikamagalur, which is 32km away from Bhadra WLS. Bus From Mysuru has moist-dry deciduous forests and seeing the forest on foot. About For more, see Bhadra WLS Accom (160km/3-4 hrs) KSRTC buses ply high bamboo groves. Shola forests 8km from the Range Office is the modation Listings on page 432 regularly on these routes. Fare: KSRTC/ are also found here. Nagarbhavi lake, where elephants private buses `160; fare from Bengaluru Forest jeep safari Indians `450 per congregate. There is a waterhole at AROUND BHADRA WLS (240km/3-4hrs) is `200-500 person (1.5 hrs); Foreigners `1200 Talbidrekere, where you can spot per person Timings 6am–9am; plenty of wild-life. Melgiri and Sitalayyanagiri (18km) 4pm–6pm. Kesarhalla too offer excellent The drive to Sitalayyanagiri is a treat. lawns and white picket fences, make sightings. Tigers are some-times It offers excellent views of the for an enchanting pastoral scene. Things to see and do seen in Chandanahadlu, Western Ghats, Chikkamagaluru, Further up the same road is the Doddahadlu and at a rocky escarp- rolling valleys and coffee plantations. highest peak in Karnataka, Mullaiya- There are plenty of opportunities to ment near the Jenkalgiri caves. Ancient estate houses, with their nagiri (21km). At 6,300ft above sea explore Bhadra’s magical environs moss-covered sloping roofs, green level, it offers excellent views. ■ — be it through trekking or on a Jungle Safari jungle safari. The chances of spotting Hire the forest department jeep ani-mals are quite high. unless you have your own transport. A guard will accompany you to #Awesomekarnataka Nature Trail make sure you find your way back. There is a 3.5-km-long nature trail If you are in a big party of over 10, at Muthodi for those keen on you can hire the forest mini-bus.

304 Karnataka Karnataka 305 Western Ghats Thirthahalli

celebrates the washing off the blood are popular trekking hotspots. stains event as Yellu Amavasye Day. It Splendid views can be enjoyed of the is held on the new day of the verdant terrain of the Western Ghats, Margshira month in the Hindu famed for their great biodiversity. calendar. On the first day of the festival the idol of Lord Rameswara Where to stay and eat (the utsav murti) is carried to the Tunga and a ritual consecration There’s a mix of accommodation (abhishek) is carried out at including hotels, homestays and Parashurama Thirtha. Devotees then guesthouses in and around take a ritual bath in the river. On the Thirthahalli. For meals ask for second day the idol is pulled by the popular local favourites such as devout along Car Street in Thirthahalli avalakki which comprises beaten rice Photographs Courtesy Wikipedia An evening view of the Tunga Bridge in a showy pageant. On the third day seasoned with lentils, spices, salt, of the festival the idol is placed on a akki rotti — a flatbread made from raft (teppa) and taken downriver to salted rice flour (good for breakfast) Kuruvalli (this ritual is known as the and not to mention the yummy Thirthahalli Teppotsava) and then returned to its midigayi-uppinakai, a spicy tender A Little Discovered Gem home in Thirthahalli . Fireworks and mango pickle. the illumination of the Tunga Bridge Gabadi River Edge Resort (Tel: ■ RANEE SAHANEY generations to come. This legendary and Rama Mantap are also part of 08181-244100, 244200; Cell: spot is blessed Thirthahalli — or the the festival highlights. 09449552633; Tairff: `2,000 + meals he lush monsoon mosaic of ‘Village of the Holy Water.’ Legend pp) is located in Gabadi, Tudur Post varying shades of emerald is has it that the waters of the Tunga Tunga Bridge and offers 4 rooms, a library, trekking Ttruly a balm for eyes punished can wash away your sins. This iconic link between Thirthahalli on prior request and a bonfire. The by the searing heat of a Northern Its lovely surrounds and the and its neighbouring Kuruvalli also summer. Greedily one soaks up the several townships which lie in close goes by the name of Jayachamrajendra splendour of the Western Ghats as proximity to Thirthahalli offer Wadiyar Bridge, as it was inaugurated we bowl along the road from visitors excellent opportunities for by the famous Wadiyar royal of Bengaluru to Shimoga and off-beat exploring walking and trekking Mysuru, on its completion in 1943. Tirthalli ruminating by the roiling trails, pilgrim points, literary haunts, A magnet for tourists the Tunga waters of the Tunga River set in a a bird sanctuary and even an Bridge was built by renowned FAST FACTS swathe of rich forestland. It was here elephant camp run by Karnataka’s scholar-architect. Sir M Visvesvaraya. When to go October and March at the Tunga River, that Parashurama famous Jungle Lodges and Resorts. The elegantly arching structure is Tourist office is said to have arrived to wash off the supported by a host of pillars on ● Office of the Assistant Director last remnants of the blood on the Things to see and do either side. Department of Tourism axe by which he slew his mother A-Block, 3rd Cross Renuka Devi, on the directions of his Rameswara Temple Anandgiri and Siddeshwara Gudda Gopala Gowda Extension father Sage Jamadagni. This act of The little township is also linked to Ananadgiri Gudda falls on the road Shivamoga ridding the sesame-seed sized stains Lord Rama. The stone built Sri to Shimoga and Siddeshwara Gudda Tel: 08182-251444 (AD Office) of blood from the guilt-ridden Rameswara Temple stands close to is situated alongside the Agumbe Cell: 09611515576 (DTC) Parashurama’s axe has laid the the spot (Parashurama Thirtha) Road. Both these hills, a short STD code 08181 ground for its veneration for where a great throng of devotees walking distance from Thirthahalli,

306 Karnataka Karnataka 307 Western Ghats Thirthahalli

Kuppalli (18km) Just 18 km from Thirthahalli, Kuppalli revels in its importance as the birthplace of the great Kannada poet and playwright Kuvempu, as also of his son Poornachandra Tejaswi getting there who rose to become an eminent Air Nearest airport: Mangaluru writer, novelist, photographer, (167kms/ 3 1/2 hrs). publisher, painter, naturalist, and Taxi `9-13 per km environmentalist. Both father and Rail Nearest railhead: Shimoga son were cremated here. Kavishaila, (60kms). Many trains run from Mysuru a Stonehenge-style monument and Bengaluru to Shimoga created from megalithic rocks also Road From Bengaluru take NH-206 to stands on this site as a memorial to Shimoga and NH-13 (Thirthahalli the poet. Nearby, massive slabs of road) to reach Thirthahalli, which is granite feature engraved poems and about 54 km from Shimoga. Kuvempu’s House In Kuppalli quotes by Kuvempu. His childhood Bus Several buses ply from Bengaluru home mane is now a museum. to Thirthahalli. Good options are Bananki Homestay (Cell: Tunga River where it turns on its KSRTC’s Rajahamsa Executive from 09481490555, 09448320047; `2,250- head in U-turn as it wends its way Sakrebyle Elephant Camp (40km) Bengaluru (`462) and Airavat Club 2,500 +meals pp) at Devangi Post, north to Shimoga, 50km away. The Situated in Sakrebyle, which is also Class (`625) Thirthahalli has 7 rooms and river shares its great plenitude of fish readily approachable from Shimoga arranges plantation walks and with the locals. It’s not surprising to town (12 km), this camp offers cycling. Devangi Atithya Homestay find families heading out to a spot visitors some of the most thrilling the mahouts and then take to the (Tel: 274235, 274135 Cell: called Matsyadhama to feed the fish moments in the company of captive feeding area. Elephant rides are 09448766567, 09449430003 `2,500, which are found here in great Asiatic elephants in an eco-friendly subject to availability. Jungle Lodges +meals, pp) in the same area has 6 numbers in this holy river. environment. Maintained by the operates a wonderful resort here rooms, a swimming pool, games Forest Department the elephant and also offers some rewarding treks room, kids play area and arranges Kavaledurga (16km) training camp, located by the Tunga and birding tours. The tariff at the nature walks and trekking. The A huge draw for trekkers the 9th River, is considered to be one of the camp includes your stay, meals and Dodda Mane Homestay (Cell: century Kavaledurga Fort, a seven finest in Karnataka.The interaction activities. You can stay in a wooden 09448603343; Tariff: On request) is tiered structure was developed by session allowed between the visitors cottage, a tented cottage or the located at Kasturi Akka, Main Road, Keladi’s Nayakas who once ruled over and the elephants can last for up to moderately priced dorm. Dodda Mane, Agumba and has 2 Shimoga and Vijayanagara. Ruins of 2 to 3 hours. The best time is early rooms, 1 5-bedded dorm and arranges buildings and remnants of old morning when the elephants are See Thirthahalli Accommodation Listing meals and provides travel facilities. temples mark the different level of bathed in the water of the river by on page 445 ■ the fortress. Apart for this short tryst Arounds with the history of this area, the biggest reward when you huff and Chibbalagudde (10km) puff your way up to the top of the #Awesomekarnataka Home to the Sri Siddhi Vinayaka fort, is the panoramic views of the Temple, raised to Lord Ganesha, Western Ghats, the gleaming Varahi pretty Chibbalagudde overlooks the River and the Mani Dam.

308 Karnataka Karnataka 309 Western Ghats HONNEMARDU

Even as your tent is pitched at dusk, HONNEMARDU you can hear the chirp of the cicadas, LINGANAMAKKI’S EMERALD ISLE the wind whistle through the bamboo thickets and the soft swish of bats as ■ ALLEN MENDONCA Linganamakki Reservoir is better they settle on trees laden with fruit. known as Honnemardu after the The silence is disturbed more rudely FAST FACTS n 1965, Linganamakki dammed tiny hamlet that nestles above the by the loud metallic calls of the When to go All year round, except the Sharavathi River. When the hills overlooking the waters. And racket-tailed drongo. But it’s the during the rains. However, Honnemardu Idam’s sluice gates were closed when the reservoir overflows, the nights that are the most magical. As a is best post-monsoon and the temporary walls erected run-off cascades down 960 ft as Jog bonfire blazes and the sweet aroma of Tourist office between the hills blasted away, the Falls, India’s highest and Asia’s roasting potatoes wafts towards the ● Assistant Director of Tourism waters from the Sharavathi roared second highest waterfall. tent, you can lie on your back and Gopala Godwa Extension into the gorge, consuming large Almost halfway across the gaze at the stars with little else to do. A Block, Third Cross, Shimoga tracts of evergreen forest. Once the reservoir, an emerald isle, which is There you are, on your very own Tel: 08182-251444 waters settled, an enormous visible from Honnemardu, nestles island in a lake surrounded by verdant Cell: 09611515576 (DTC) shimmering mirror of blue spread amidst the blue waters. Take a coracle hills, miles away from the hurly- STD code 08183 over several square kilometres. from the mainland and glide across. burly of the city.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO Honnemardu is in the heart of the The exhuberant cascades of Jog Falls Malnad region, a land with a rich history, numerous Jain basadis (tiny temples), Hindu shrines and tribal villages. It’s also a land that offers an enormous scope for true lovers of adventure and thrill.

A quiet night on the isle Driving along the road hewn in the hills, you can glimpse through the trees the sheer drop and the silver flashes of the Sharavathi River far below. And then the road dips towards Honnemardu. There, perched on a bluff, is the base camp of The Adventurers, a Bengaluru-based NGO (Honnemardu Campus Tel: 080-23305508, 23409712; Cell: 09448485508), in operation for more than 25 years, which organises camping and adventure activities on the lake and in the verdant hills around. Trained

310 Karnataka Karnataka 311 Western Ghats HONNEMARDU

shutterstock Courtesy wikipedia instructors familiar with the starlight. There are maybe a couple surrounding forest areas guide you of snakes, they say, but no wild through these activities, which are animals, and rest assured, the snakes popular with a wide range of wouldn’t be able to enter the tent. A Bengaluruans, from kids to the guide always stays with the group middle-aged. Safety measures include on the isle overnight and a life jackets and instructors trained in professional instructor, trained for rescue and first-aid programmes. rescue and first-aid, mans the coracle The experience begins when to and from the isle. Settle down to you’re paddled to the isle from the vegetarian dinner with a thermos Honnemardu by guides in a coracle. of coffee and a container of water. Explore the small isle. You can Wrap up the night with a leisurely explore some jungle trails, watch round of star-gazing. the sunset and enjoy the whole Come the morning and the guide outdoor experience. Tents are takes you back to the camp at pitched once you reach the isle. Honnemardu. This is truly a wildlife There’s no electricity, but you won’t and nature reserve for there are need lights — there’s the moon and absolutely no tourist facilities of any

prashant panjiar A yacht for you Yellow-browed Bulbul; an Orange-headed thrush A traditional coracle measures 8-10 ft in kind for miles around. They’ve more activity, perhaps a walk along diameter, is made from bamboo and arranged for a breakfast of fluffy ancient trails. Try and identify the buffalo hide and coated with pitch. Rotund white idlis and chutney, topped numerous trees that create a canopy as they are, traditional coracles are with steaming hot Coorg coffee. of colour and shade. nevertheless a stable proposition that You’re fortified for the action during take a lot of weight — including the the day! Birds and butterflies occasional moped. The smooth and tiny Bio-degradable garbage can be The forests around Honnemardu and rocks that create super-mini falls at every left behind. Carry back all other Jog Falls are a birdwatcher’s delight. second metre along Karnataka’s rivers Coracle rides can be lots of fun trash. Only veg food, no liquor, no A large number of species can be are no match for the smoothness of the smoking. The isle can ‘carry’ a sighted while walking along the coracle’s flat bottom — a beauty gliding cruise up-river. Every other tourist hotspot maximum of 60 people. ridges of the valley — the European across smooth waters. But the ones used in Karnataka with the tiniest body of bee-eater, fairy blue bird, ruby- by the guides in Honnemardu are made water in sight offers coracle rides. Adventure cheeked bulbul, orange-headed of fibreglass, with hidden air pockets on Fishermen too still use them, but it’s There is a wide array of activities to ground thrush, scarlet minivets. the sides to ensure they won’t sink not advisable for the less experienced to choose from — camping on the You’ll also find blue rock pigeons should water get in. try their hand at rowing coracles because island, trekking, canoeing, rafting, sheltering on the rocks just amidst There was a time when one could the currents are swift and the waters run kayaking, wind surfing, swimming. the waterfalls, swallows flying purchase a coracle for around Rs 800- deep. It takes considerable skill before All these activities are part of the around, red-whiskered bulbuls and if 1,200 from the hamlets that dot the hills you can learn how to spin a coracle on a deal. A morning in the great outdoors, you’re lucky, the elusive yellow- around Honnemardu and Jog Falls, and virtual central axis. a light lunch followed by a light browed bulbuls. Interestingly, there snooze and you’re again ready for are a number of very beautiful

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of ancient times. The best part, you can also shop for a range of paintings made by the skilled painters here.

Tyavarekoppa (9 km from Shimoga) getting there A thrilling experience for kids is a Rail Nearest railhead: Talguppa (11 km/ tiger and lion safari with over 20 of 45 mins). From here, only jeeps can the majestic beasts roaming around travel to Honnemardu. They cost approx in two sprawling enclosures, at `1,500 one way Good train options are Tyavarekoppa. It’s worth a visit either the Talguppa Express from Bengaluru on the way to Jog or on the return City and Bengaluru Express from journey by road. Tyavarekoppa is on Talaguppa the highway between Sagar and Road A comfortable drive on national Shimoga. It’s best to hire a taxi from highways. For the last stretch, it’s good Shimoga. Do remember to negotiate to have either a 4WD or a sturdy frame. rates in advance. Bus KSRTC buses from Bengaluru go to Talguppa. From here, catch a jeep to Sagar (27 km) Honnemardu (`1500 return) Sagar, a cultural centre, is famous for its rural theatre exemplified by A sweeping view of the mounitanside at sunset Ninasam, the theatre village founded robust Kaanur Kote, a fort that was by Magsaysay Award winner KV once the garrison and stronghold of butterflies: red helens, blue usually reccommended for most Subbanna. On any given day, watch the legendary Pepper Queen, Chan mormons, blue bottles, striped tourists is a fun weekend stay (in movie classics from all over the world nabhairavadevi. For miles around, tigers, oak leaf, truly a feast for any pitched tents) for 2 or more days. in the auditorium. Just 3 km away, it’s just dense undergrowth, with butterfly lover. lies Ikkeri, the old bastion of the innumerable shades of green. A large Tip A copy of Salim Ali’s Book of For more details, see Accommodation Keladi rulers for 120 years. The big number of bird species can be sighted. Indian Birds and binocs can be really Listings on pages 437-438 (Honnemardu attraction here is the tranquil And though there’s jungle overgrowth handy if you’re going birding. and Jog Falls) Aghoreshwar temple. all around, one can spot deer and sometimes even boar. Though it is WHERE TO STAY AND EAT AROUNDs Nagavalli (75 km) relatively safe, it is best to take Located deep in the lush the trek with a guide to avoid getting There’s only the camp run by The Gademane (10 km) Govardhanagiri Forest Range lies the lost in the forest. The Adventurers Adventurers (Bengaluru Cell An easy drive from Honnemardu is serene village of Nagavalli, from (see Where to Stay and Eat on page 314) 09448485508; Tariff: `4,000 + meals this little village famous for its where one can go trekking to the also arrange adventure treks here. n pp & activities for 2 days), open Chitara art. A noted organisation through the entire year. Price includes doing this remarkable work is all meals (wholesome veg fare), stay Chittaradangala. Villagers here used #Awesomekarnataka in tents, use of equipment and charred rice powder and colours helpful guidance from trained concocted from jungle fruit to paint instructors. Though they offer walls and these days, canvases, with various programmes, the one that is drawings that resemble cave paintings

314 Karnataka Karnataka 315 Western Ghats JOG FALLS-Lakkavalli

When it rains, one can also witness the majesty of the Dabbe Falls in the Bhimeshwari Valley, about 30 km from Jog Falls. You need to drive down to Hosagadde, about 25 km away, trek down about 5 km and then start the steep descent to the falls. The Lushington Falls are 35 km from Jog Falls. To reach here, drive down to Bilgi (10 km from Siddapur), from where you start the 3-km trek down-river before the final descent to the falls. You can also get to Jog Falls from Lakkavalli via Shimoga, Sagar and Talguppa.

River Tern Lodge River Tern Lodge, set close to the small village of Lakkavalli, along the borders of Chikkamagaluru and shutterst o ck

FAST FACTS JOG FALLS-Lakkavalli Monsoon glory of Jog Falls When to go The camp is open all year a tern for the better Karnataka’s great poet Nissar Ahmed round as it’s quite pleasant unless you described Jog as a leitmotif of the can’t handle the humungous rain ■ RANEE SAHANEY and an even greater sound than Raja, as rich cultural and historical heritage between June and September. If you Allen mendonca if heralding His Majesty’s presence. of the state in his evergreen song are going fishing, the angling season is Almost adjacent are Rocket and Jogada Siri. October to mid-April. Peak season for og is really four falls in one — Rani, the former so named because Kannada filmmakers and actors tern watching — March to June Raja, Rani, Rocket and Roarer — he streams down like a rocket including matinee idol Dr Rajkumar Contact Jwhich carefully coordinate their plummeting to the earth, and Rani have picturised numerous romantic Jungle Lodges & Resorts Ltd run to produce a truly aesthetic for her grace. interludes against the backdrop of 49, GF, Khanija Bhavan experience of delight. Between July and October, Jog is the falls, prancing about in the Race Course Road, Bengaluru Raja is the grandest, tumbling a study in foam and spray, sparkling hamlet of Kargal close by, or at the Tel: 080-40554055 from atop the precipice. Halfway during the day and almost golden at bottom where a pool swirls and Email: [email protected] down is Roarer, which makes up for night when it is lit up by sulphur disappears into the rocks in the river’s W junglelodges.com its comparative lack of height with vapour lamps. No wonder onward journey to the Arabian Sea.

316 Karnataka Karnataka 317 Western Ghats JOG FALLS-Lakkavalli

shutterstock Shimoga districts, offers a most exploring one of India’s pristine alluring wildlife holiday experience wildlife sanctuaries. Plus, much of in Karnataka. This unique and the trained staff is recruited from popular lodge is named after the tens the local villages. of thousands of Indian river terns Tucked away, off the bend of the (Sterna aurantia) that congregate on road, running alongside the two tiny islands in the Bhadra backwaters, River Tern awaits visitors backwaters during their annual with traditional warmth and non- breeding season from March through invasive hospitality. all the way to May. Jungle Lodges & Resorts (JLR) has Things to see and do played a pivotal role in opening up some of Karnataka’s least visited Sprawling across twin hillocks nature hubs and River Tern is a true conjoined by a pretty little wooden gem in every sense. You have the bridge, River Tern Lodge nestles by nesting birdlife, the glorious the backwaters of the Bhadra River, backwaters and the promise of about 4 km from the little township of Lakkavalli, which serves the resort with basic necessities including the services of a doctor. Close to it is the BRP (Bhadra River Project) fish hatchery which is involved in the Grey Heron looking for a tasty morsel breeding of catla, rohu, mrigal, silver getting there carp and grass carp in the emerald Boat rides and birding km wide and spread over 492 sq km Rail Convenient railhead: Birur Jn (44 ponds set against lush verdure. Voile scarves of mists enfold the river with plunging depths ranging km/11/2 hrs). Resort pick-up costs are The resort is located behind the at daybreak, lifting intermittently to between 136 ft and 186 ft) normally `1,000-1,200. Or, catch a bus from Birur Bhadra Dam (about 500m away) reveal the steely ripple of the water submerged under the onslaught of to Tarikere, which has private buses/ erected in 1962. The northern border under a morning breeze. With a break the annual monsoon, become autos serving Lakkavalli village, 4 km of Bhadra Tiger Reserve and Wildlife in the cloud cover, the river turns a temporary nurseries for tens of from the lodge. Negotiate with an auto Sanctuary is conveniently close for a pale robin’s egg blue, the smear thousands of breeding river terns, as for the remaining ride. A good leisurely safari (also see page 302). stretching to the far side. It’s been the waters recede. In the high connection with Bengaluru is the Visitors can look forward to exciting raining most of the night and it season, the cacophony would put Janshatabdi Express outdoor activities such as mountain seems I won’t be able to approach the poor Cacophonix to shame as the Road The route is along the well- biking, guided short/ long treks, nesting islands. But as luck would birds squabble for perches on the maintained NH48 from Bengaluru upto water sports, island camping, angling, have it, post-breakfast there’s a knock tiny islands. The islands also act as Tumkur from where you get onto the rock climbing for children and star on the door and a boatman dressed in nurseries to the pratincoles with Shimoga Bypass (NH206) to Tarikere gazing, apart from birding and boat camouflage fatigues tells me to follow their grey and black plumage. via Gubbi, Tiptur, Arsikere, Kadur and rides on the backwaters. And if you him to the boat. I quell my natural The boat chugs along with a Birur. From Tarikere take a left (look for want to splurge a bit, go for the fear of the river running high and my healthy purr and I’m exhilarated as the board for Kuvempu University) and package that includes a visit to the inability to swim, as the lure of the the swish of the water slaps its carry on for another 18 km or so, till you Sakrebyle Elephant Camp by the river terns surfaces strong and firm. flanks and throws up a spray that get to Lakkavalli town Tunga River and the Tyavarekoppa From March to May, two islands mingles with the light drizzle on my lion/tiger safari. on the Bhadra backwaters (192 sq face. Deeper and deeper we go in

318 Karnataka Karnataka 319 Western Ghats JOG FALLS-Lakkavalli

Courtesy River Tern Lodge Courtesy River Tern Lodge the weather’s fine, there’s a choice of kayaking, pedalling and rowing. They make sure that lifeguards are ready at all times. ◆Timings 7.30-8.30 am, 10.30 am-noon Charges Rates vary for different activities (if you have opted for a 2N package, expect to pay extra for water sports)

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

In Jog Falls KSTDC’s 16-room Mayura Gersoppa Hotel (Cell: 09480595732; Tel: 0818- 6244732; Tariff: `2,358-4,500, dorm bed `300). Sharavathi Adventure Camp (Tel: 213399; Tariff: `4,000 per person (+ meals & some activities are organized).

In Lakkavalli River Tern Lodge, where cottages have delicious views from the balconies Scattered across the twin hillocks are Go biking at River Tern Lodge the 24 twin-bedded cottages of River this watery territory. To my right, impelled by some inner clock will Tern Lodge (Cell: 09449599780; some drinks, count the stars from the dam looms grey and forbidding, not leave till their duty is done…. Tariff: `7,500) with all mod-cons your perch on the bridge. Book its waters only released when the ◆ Boating timings 7.30-8.30 am, and compelling river views from the online or at the Jungle Lodges and depths climb to the danger mark. 4pm-5pm The peak nesting season balconies. The 1N/2D package Resorts office in Bengaluru. On the left is one of the emerald is March-June includes accommodation, all meals, Nutritious, homely fare is served green islands with birds wheeling jeep safari, boat ride, birding, forest buffet-style at the Salt Lick in the high. I grab my camera and hit the Water sports entry fee, camera fee and taxes. Water Gol Ghar, a gazebo set amidst the right buttons, regardless of the grey Despite the drizzle-rain-drizzle sports cost extra. The older cottages foliage overlooking the river. skies and drizzle for I have spotted a scenario, a host of corporates fresh are located on the hilly peninsula, clutch of terns sitting quietly on the from Bengaluru are cluttering the and the newer additions dot a small For details, see Accommodation Listings downy grass close to the water’s pathway to the water sports area island, accessible by a wooden bridge. on page 438 (Jog Falls) and (Lakkavalli) edge. Some have paid the penalty operated by professionals at River After an early dinner, warmed by pages 440-441 n for their late sojourn…little Tern. In the summer it must be fledglings, drowned in their grassy glorious but in the rains it’s a beds by the waters, sweep by us but completely different ball game. A the mothers remain stubborn, short distance from the bank, the #Awesomekarnataka braving the rain, keeping the trampoline and a mighty see-saw on remaining eggs warm. Yes, it’s way the river (complete with life jackets) past the season but the laggards continue to be a huge hit. And when

320 Karnataka Karnataka 321 Western Ghats Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary

orientation Birding If you seek adventure, then hop onto Dandeli is the town closest to the a rubber dinghy and attempt to tame Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary. To enter the furious rapids of the Kali. Or get the sanctuary, you have to come via into a coracle and sail along the river. Haliyal to the Range Office at the Watch cormorants drying themselves Kulgi Nature Camp (run by the on rocks, kingfishers fishing, and Forest Department), about 11km egrets waddling on the river bank. from Dandeli town on the Ambika Nagar-Yellapur route. It has a Nature Gowli villages Interpretation Centre with a The gowlis are graziers who live museum. Entry tickets can also be around the Tavaragatti (24km) and bought here. Entry to the sanctuary is 3km from the Kulgi Nature Camp, which offers accommodation and adventure activities. ◆ Entry and jeep safari charges `450 pp Safari timings 6am-8am, FAST FACTS shutterstock 4pm-6pm Photography Still photos Crocodiles are the kings (and queens) of Kali river in Dandeli no fee, Video only if permitted. Best time to visit All year round, except during the monsoons Things to see and do Go there for Black panthers Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary Wildlife/ Forest Dept offices The chief attractions of the sanctuary Tourist Offices wild wild south are crocodile-spotting in coracles on ● Director the river Kali, rafting, birdwatching Kali Tiger Reserve ■ SUNAAD RAGHURAM chital all live here for sure, but not in and hiking. Dandeli as large numbers for them to be Tel: 08284-231585 eputedly the oldest game spotted unfailingly like in most other Crocodile watching W kalitigerdandeli.com reserve in the country — an forests of south India. Imagine going down a river in a ● Dy Conservator of Forests (Territorial) Rarea of 204 sq km was declared Dandeli is also home to that coracle and being surrounded by Haliyal a reserve in May 1956 — Dandeli most mysterious of the big cats in over 150 crocodiles! That’s exactly Tel: 08284-220128 Wildlife Sanctuary is spread over an the tropics — the black panther. what happens if you go down the STD code 08284 expanse of 450 sq km. It comprised Official records say that eight of Kali river, just outside Dandeli town. ● Department of Tourism a larger area that was unfortunately them exist here and there are people It is said that the crocodiles Office of the Deputy Director lost due to the pressures of human who have actually seen them. There congregate at this spot (called NH-17, Near RTO Office population explosion, mining and are also arboreal creatures such as Kerwad) to eat the pulp waste Goa Main Road industrialisation. Hence, tourists the flying squirrel, flying snake, released into the waters of the Kali Karwar should remember that while a visit flying lizard and different kinds of by the West Coast Paper Mill, set up Uttara Kannada to Dandeli is about experiencing the hornbills. Not to forget the slender in the 1950s. Over the years, they Tel: 08382-221172 great wilderness, there is no loris, locally known as van manav have become habituated to eating Cell: 09483132206 (TO), 09742322901 guarantee that one will spot big (jungle man), which makes a sure- the industrial waste. Talk about STD code 08382 animals. Elephant, gaur, sambar, and shot appearance soon after sunset. instant — and organic — recycling!

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more information, contact Kulgi Nature Camp (Tel: 08284-231585). From the last point where vehicles are allowed, the caves are a 2-hour walk. Get ready to brave a climb of 540 steps on the way to the caves, getting there from where, after a tour through Air Nearest airport: Hubballi Airport narrow passages, you’ll come across (70km/1.5-2hrs) is well connected to the a rock formation that resembles a major cities by Indigo, Air India, Go Air, Shivalinga. The Forest Department etc. Taxi from Hubballi airport to Dandeli offers a daily tour of these caves, costs `2,000; KSRTC bus fare `100 from 6am to 12 noon (Tel: 08284- Rail Nearest railhead: Hubli (Hubballi) 231585; Fee `600pp). Taxis charge Junction Railway Station (78km/1.5- `600 from Dandeli to Phansoli. For 2hrs) is well connected to major cities. the journey from Phansoli to Kavala, Bus from Hubballi station to Dandeli hire a jeep (`600pp by jeep). costs `100. Taxi fare is `2,000. Road The most convenient way to Anshi National Park (54km) reach Kali Tiger Reserve, Dandeli, is Rows of log houses in Kulgi Nature Camp Anshi was designated a National from Hubballi (70km). Park in 1987, and covers an area of Kalbhavi (16km) areas. Their homes Deputy Conservator of Forests 340 sq km. The Anshi Village lies are unique and consist of bamboo (Territorial) Office. Near the Dandeli within the park; here, you will find vehicle to drive around Anshi as the walls smeared with a combination Bus Stand is the Jungle Lodges the Forest Range Office. About 3km Forest Department does not organise of mud and cow dung. property, Kali Wilderness Adventure away is the Anshi Nature Camp. any safaris. The Barpali View Point Camp (Tel: 230266; Tariff: `3,781- You can hire jeeps at Karwar and offers fantastic views. This is the area where to stay 6,608, with meals). It has 14 rooms Dandeli town. Anshi is home to where there are maximum sightings and 11 tented cottages and offers deer, Indian bison Malabar civet, of the black panther. The Kulgi Nature Camp (Tel: 08284- meals, coracle rides, river rafting, Malabar giant squirrel, pangolin, 231585, 291831; `1,200-1,500) is and safaris. Bison River Resort (Tel: and sloth bear, as well as leopards, Where to Stay and Eat located 3km before the entry gate of 08383-256539; Tariff: `6,000, with tigers, and elephants. Reservations for the Anshi Nature the sanctuary on the Ambika Nagar- meals) in Ilva has 33 cottages. ◆ Entry fee `400 (includes guide) Camp (Tel: 08284-231585; Tariff: Yellapur route. It has 10 tents, eight Timings 6am-8.30am, 4pm-6pm `1,200 per tent, dorm bed `125) cottages, and one dorm (15-bedded). For more, see Dandeli WLS Accom To stay at Anshi, you need have to be done at the Director, Safaris and treks can be arranged. modation Listings on pages 434-435 permission from the office of the Dandeli-Anshi Tiger Reserve. The Range Office is also located Deputy Conservator of Forests at ◆ Location 60km from Hubballi here. Bookings are made at the office arounds Dandeli. You will need your own Air Hubballi Rail Karwar ■ of the Director, Dandeli-Anshi Tiger Reserve, in Dandeli town. The camp Kavala Caves (25km) closes during the monsoons. The In the middle of the Western Ghats Jaladarshini Forest Rest House tree canopy, are the ancient caves of #Awesomekarnataka (Haliyal, Tel: 220128; Tariff: `800) in Kavala. You’ll have to make a pit Dandeli has four rooms and a cook. stop at the Phansoli Village Range Bookings are done at the Haliyal Office for your entry permit. For

324 Karnataka Karnataka 325 Western Ghats HULI VANA

Courtesy huli vana nearby. There’s hot water for baths, the Huli Vana has only three ‘rooms’ to cooking is all on firewood and there are choose from—a log cabin and two large kerosene lanterns for the common areas. rooms with huge French windows. With a In many ways, Huli Vana is not just a sitting room, fireplace and attached place to stay, it’s an experience. It makes bathrooms, these are the ‘luxury rooms’. possible a certain way of escape that’s My bathroom sits in a little hollow downhill getting increasingly difficult for the average and has a marvellous earthen stove with person. And by being brave enough to hot water constantly bubbling away. It also eschew all frills and yet ensure a certain has spider families, wandering slugs, small modicum of comfort, it stays true to its frogs and something that eats my soap mandate in a way that I find very comforting. each night. Since none of these go hiss, I No Internet, no phone, no electricity, a do not get hysterical. cellphone that works only at a certain spot On the last night, Sunil gets a bonfire under a certain tree... It’s an escape from going next to a beautiful vantage point—a the constant connectedness that is our wooden platform built on high ground with twenty-first-century inheritance. fantastic views. We sit around the hypnotic I trek, I read, I eat, I sleep, I pick burrs flames, roasting potatoes and sharing off my clothes. Two peaks, Jenkal Betta stories. A perfect ending, too. Chilling out at lovely Huli Vana (Karnataka’s second highest) and Digkal Betta, ask to be climbed. I turn down the For more, see Huli Vana Accommodation former and accept the easier Digkal. Listings on page 438 n Breathtaking, in more ways than one, the HULI VANA way up is a long haul and my lungs beg for deep in the rainforest mercy. The next day, we venture into the rainforest, literally bush-whacking through ■ VAISHNA ROY When Huli Vana calls itself a jungle the dense undergrowth. Luckily, it’s retreat, that’s exactly what it is. It’s not just January and quite dry, so there’s no sign t has been a long and boring haul from a cute term for a luxury resort cuddled of a leech anywhere. Lots of elephant and THE INFORMATION Chennai, and the final 40 km of NH48 is amid a tame patch of trees. After a last sambar markings but we don’t sight Getting There Nearest airport: Ione pothole after another, till you land in lonely temple, about 12 km short of our anything. Actually, this is prime tiger and Mangaluru (164 km). Nearest railhead: the last one and it’s Sakleshpur. When I destination, even the rough roadway gives bear country (huli in Kannada means tiger), Sakleshpur (33 km). From Sakleshpur, finally drag myself into the Gypsy and up and we are bouncing over rocks and and the old guide has a hair-raising story take the Hanbal-Devaldekere-Margunda head for Huli Vana deep in the hills, it’s fording streams. We reach a clearing in the (and scars) of his too-close encounter with route. From Margunda, Huli Vana well past seven in the evening and there’s middle of the rainforest, park next to a a bear. And while we were trekking up organises a guide a full moon rising. As are my spirits. It’s brook and I am shown to my log cabin by Digkal, an elephant came calling right up to Accommodation 2 stone villas secretly quite a kick when you are in a torchlight and moonbeam. the kitchen, making the cook very nervous. (sleeps 6-7 people each) with place where nothing but a cliché will do. I Huli Vana is off the power grid. Actually, We see the evidence next day — heaps of attached bathrooms, Dome tents (Oct- roll my tongue satisfied around the words it’s pretty much off any grid and off the fresh dung, giant footprints, branches and May), with meals and sleeping bags. and say it aloud: “The hills are bathed in map as well. If Sunil, the owner, does not trees torn off and strewn casually. We Tariff `2,500 + meals pp (tents), `3,500 moonlight.” Wave upon wave of the escort you there, it’s unlikely you will find follow in its wake and I soon find myself + meals pp (stone villa) Sahyadris is awash in a silvery light that it. The one CFC bulb in my room is struggling along the steepest and narrowest Contact 09108671755 has transformed the scene into an intriguing powered by a 2kW hydro turbine, fed by a tracks that the huge creature has no W hulivana.com and surreal moonscape. brook that throws itself off some rocks business to have tackled so casually.

326 Karnataka Karnataka 327 North Karnataka Ruminate over lost kingdoms and uncover those secret histories amongst the ruined cities north Karnataka Route Planner

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tanks of scented oils. Amidst Hampi’s ruins are exquisitely carved stone pillars which still resonate with the seven musical notes, stone chariots with wheels that turned, a prototype of a pinhole camera, the loftiest temple tower in Karnataka, the largest statue of Ganesha in the state and other feats of architectural genius that baffle the mind. In 1565, the confederacy of Muslim sultanates plundered the city and caused the empire’s decline. The wooden superstructures have long been burnt with only stone remnants to piece together a mighty jigsaw puzzle that was torn asunder. The mind is forced to imagine the lost vision of Hampi and a golden era prashant panjiar trapped in stone. For centuries the HAMPI Sentinels of an ancient civilisation LEGACY IN STONE natural barrier of the river and rocks on three sides. The city was in the ■ anurag mallick and town Hospet in Ballari district, form of a srichakra with the PRIYA GANAPATHY Hampi is a passage into time where Virupaksha temple in the middle one must peel off layers of history to and nine gateways, the first in fast facts othing prepares one for the find its true soul. Hospet. Once larger than Rome with When to go The monsoon (July- life-changing, mind- It has a Neolithic past of cave palaces grander than Lisbon, the September) and winter (November- Nexpanding experience of paintings and burial dolmens bustling metropolis and its world February). Catch the 3-day Hampi Fest walking through the magical (locally called Mauryar Mane), a famous bazaar drew traders, in November. In Jan-Feb check out the landscape of Hampi. Boulders of mythological timeline as the travellers and chroniclers, all of legendary Virupaksha Temple Car every conceivable shape and size lie monkey kingdom of Kishkindha in whom have recorded Hampi’s glory Festival and the annual Purandaradasa perched in a strange balance, defying the Ramayana and an empirical extensively. Their travelogues reveal Aradhana Music Festival at Vithala gravity and logic. Iridescent green history as the capital of the the global trade in spices, jewels, Temple fields of paddy, sugarcane, banana Vijayanagara Empire, which silks, cottons, diamonds and horses. Tourist Office and coconut irrigated by the stretched from coast to coast. While Two centuries of prosperity spawned ● Office Of The Deputy Director northeast flowing Tungabhadra, Vijayanagara’s ruins span 64 miles, magnificent architecture, the ruins Department of Tourism rebel against the starkness. And in the main city was spread across 29 of which stand silent today. Near Lotus Mahal, Kamalapura, Hospet between, lie the ruins of a once sq km along the southern bank of They were witness to their Cell: 09880404150 flourishing city with monuments the Tungabadhra river. Situated in wealthy king weighing himself in W karanatakatourism.org and boulders that echo her fabulous seven concentric circles, the capital gold to be given to the poor as STD code 08394 tale. Just 13 km from the nearest was virtually impregnable with a charity and their queen soaking in

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shutterstock site lay forgotten under rubble until palace complex with its structures, excavations in late 19th century. In fortifications and monuments. North 1986, UNESCO declared the of the river from Virupaksha temple enchanting ruins of Hampi a World is Virupapura Gadde, full of budget Heritage Site. Explore by hired lodges while Anegundi across bicycle, bike, car or on foot, take a Vitthala temple has monuments boat across the Tungabhadra or drift linked to the Kishkindha kaand down in a theppa (coracle), a mode (chapter) of Ramayana. With 56 key of transport that has been around sights and 1500 state archaeological since Vijayanagara times. October monuments, there’s indeed a lot to to March is the best season; avoid see. Cycle rental `100 (off season) summer months when temperatures —200 (season) can be hired from can touch the high forties. Hampi Bazaar or your hotel. To get to Hampi from Virupapura THINGS TO SEE AND DO Gadda and Anegundi Villages, where most of the accommodation is, the Hampi’s extensive ruins can broadly ferry or coracle costs `30 /50 per be divided into two sections. The head. Service is 7.30am-5.30pm Sacred Centre stretched around the Auto (full day) `1,000 Virupaksha, Krishna, Achyutaraya and Vitthala temples, each with a Sacred Centre market and township that developed around it. The Royal Enclosure is the Virupaksha Temple Hampi Bazaar, where fine fabrics and precious jewels were once traded At 165 ft, the nine-storeyed tower of Achyutaraya Temple Virupaksha temple — the highest glory thereafter. On the far left is a elephant, blesses visitors with a gopura in Karnataka — can be seen Dining Hall built in 1510, still in use, loving thump on the head with her from afar. Dedicated to the and a colorful Kalyan Mantapa. The trunk, in exchange for a few bucks. paramount deity Lord Shiva and his central courtyard has a Deep Stambh consort Pampa Devi, the idols are set or pillar of lamps and a Vijay Stambh, Hampi Bazaar within an ornate mantapa with erected to herald a victory. The Nearly 35 yards wide and 800 yards decorative paintings on the ceiling. 3-laned passage to the left dates back long, the legendary Hampi Bazaar The inner sanctum dates back to 8th to 1440 and the queen, ministers was known in memoirs as “a very century, though the main arch and king walked through it to the beautiful street with very beautiful Bishtapayya Gopuram was built by main temple for darshan. Just houses”. Stretching from Virupaksha Harihara and Bukka in 1442. Near adjacent is a 1510 temple bell whose Temple to the monolithic Nandi at the entrance is a three-faced Nandi peals could be heard 3km away. the far end, this was the main that represents the past, present and Without a guide, it is easy to miss the business avenue. According to future of Hampi. side passage with an early example of Portuguese traveller Domingo Paes, In the 1565 sack of Hampi by the a pinhole camera — a small hole in who visited during the reign of allied Muslim rulers of the Deccan, the wall, dating back to 1442, shows Krishnadeva Raya, “In this street live the face that represented the future the inverted image of the main many merchants and there you will was defaced and locals postulate that gopuram projected on the opposite find all sorts of rubies, and diamonds, Hampi never regained its former wall. Lakshmi, the delightful temple and pearls, and seed pearls and Photographs by anurag mallick

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Photographs: shutterstock clothes, and every other sort of thing Pampapati (Pampa’s husband) hence there is on earth that you wish to the sacred area is hailed as Pampa- buy”. Today, it is a far cry from the kshetra. The hill has the Prasanna or world famous marketplace that it Mula Virupaksha Temple, Sree was. The shops have been relocated Gayathri Peeth Math and some Jain from the avenue to a small riverside temples. Further on, Sunset Point patch adjacent to the temple called offers a great view in the evening. Janatha Plot, which bustles with souvenir shops, cafes, lodges, Kadale Kalu (Gram seed) Ganesha handicraft stores and hawkers. Dating back to 1440, the 18ft monolith is the largest Ganesha Hemakuta Hill statue in Karnataka. A 24-pillared Legend has it that Hemakuta hill was temple was built around it later for where Lord Shiva undertook penance protection. In 1565, during the sack before marrying Parvati and burnt of Hampi, Adil Shah of Vijayapura Kama to cinders with his third eye. broke open the stomach and trunk Shiva’s personification as the of the idol believing that it held presiding deity Virupaksha (virup- hidden jewels. The resulting split Its a toy story aksha or the terrible-eyed one) gave stomach resembled two halves of a the site its name Virupakshapura. gram seed, lending the sculpture its of crafting Kinhal toys is complex. The The Pampa river is named after popular name Kadale Kalu (gram Kinhal kale design is drawn on a piece of light polki, Parvati, and Shiva known as seed) Ganesha! Kinhal kale, the tradition of painted wooden hale or hirelevu wood and the artist carves toys of North Karnataka does not enjoy the out a rough form. Tamarind seed powder, This impressive monolith was built around 1440 same fame as the Channapatna toys of wood dust, pebble powder and gunpowder the south, yet it represents a rich artistic is mixed with water and left to boil resulting heritage dating back to the 16th century. in a fine paste called kitta. Strips of jute are The woodcraft is believed to be as old as pasted on the figure, sandpapered and the Vijayanagara Empire and thrived under polished with a stone. Ornamentation or royal patronage. Kinhal chitragaras are jewellery is embossed on the figure using regarded as descendants of the artists who pebble powder paste and liquid gum. painted the murals in the Virupaksha or Colours are applied using a procedure Pampapati temple at Hampi. After the fall called lajjawar. In Kinhal, the art is on the of the Vijayanagara Empire, the artists wane. But around 100 chitragaras still dispersed to Kinhal, a small village near make murals and wall hangings recreating Koppal, Kanakagiri, Harapanahalli, and patterns from Virupaksha’s murals or Kampili, besides Ananthpur in Andhra scenes from the epics. They also make Pradesh. The craft received support from idols for temples and festivals – Kinhala the Nawab of Koppal, Desais of Kinhal, Gauri, Ganesha, Shiva-Parvati astride and Nawab Salar Jung of Hyderabad who Nandi for Gowri Hunnime/Habba, Durga, also patronised the lacquered Nirmal Lakshmi and Saraswati. Folk toys like woodcraft of Adilabad district. This resulted Kiskalgombe, Benne Krishna (Krishna with in a blend of Indo-Saracenic art that is now butter ball) and Uyyale Gowri (Gowri on a a characteristic of Kinhal craft. The process swing) are still sold at village fairs. prashant panjiar

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prashant panjiar Sasive Kalu largely intact except for the lower Nearby, the Sasive Kalu (Mustard left hand and trunk. Behind the seed) Ganesha got its name from the image is the outline of a female perfectly rounded toes of the idol, figure — symbolic of Parvati, the akin to mustard seeds! Built in 1516, eternal protector of Ganesha, who the richly carved 9 ft Ganesha is was always behind him.

Krishna Temple The Bala Krishna Temple was built by Krishnadeva Raya in 1513 to commemorate his victorious conquest over Prataprudra Gajapati getting there of Odisha. Air Nearest airport: Jindal Vidyanagar Airport (35km/ 1hr) is connected to Ugra Narasimha Bengaluru and Hubballi by Trujet. Taxi Ugra Narasimha is one of Lord `9-20 per km, However Hubballi Airport Vishnu’s nine avataars taking on the (162km/ 4.5hr) is well connected to fierce form of Lakshmi Narasimha, Bengaluru, Mumbai, Hyderabad and part man (nara), part lion (simha). Tirupati The 6.7m high statue was carved out Rail Nearest railhead: Hospet a single block of granite in 1528 (13km/1/2hr) is well connected to during the reign of Krishnadeva Bengaluru, Vijayapur, Hubballi, Raya. The figure is seated on Adisesha, Ugra Narasimha, a fierce manifestation of Lord Vishnu Guntakal and also to major cities like the seven-headed snake depicted in Goa, Howrah, Pune, Kolhapur, hoods fanning above the image. The Vishnu Temple Matanga Hill Bhubaneswar, Ahmedabad, Vadodara, structure used to have four arms The Vishnu temple was consecrated Named after Sage Matanga who had Visakhapatnam, etc. Sight seeing taxi to originally, which were amputated in to famous Vaishnava saint Tirumangai his ashram here, Matanga Parvatam Hampi costs `2,800 (return). Auto will the Muslim invasion of 1565. The Alvar and was built by Sadashiva (hill) was where Sugreeva and charge `200-300 to Hampi. ST buses image of Lakshmi also suffered the Raya in 1556. Behind it is a 2-storeyed Hanuman sought refuge from the are also available same fate. gate called Harishankar Mahadwara. wrath of Vali, who couldn’t set foot Road Take NH48 from Bengaluru till here because of the sage’s curse. Tumkur and on Chitradurga. Stay below Badavi Linga Achyuta Raya Temple Hanuman became Sugreeva’s the flyover intersection to catch the right To the right of the Narasimha Built between 1530-40 in the reign of minister and spotted the itinerant turn onto NH13 for Hospet via sculpture is the Badavi Linga temple. Achyuta Raya, its main deity is princes Rama and Lakshmana from Hosahalliu. NH48 is a good run till The 3m high monolithic lingam has Tiruvengalanath or Lord Ayodhya and arranged a meeting. Chitradurga, but NH13 offers a bumpy its base perpetually in 1m of water, Venketeshwara. It is the only temple Apart from a good view after a steep ride. Travel during the day to avoid fed by an arm of the Tungabhadra. complex to have two enclosures climb, there is a temple dedicated to heavy night traffic. Bus The KSRTC This temple celebrates Shiva’s within the main temple. North of Virabhadra here. super deluxe night bus leaves daily manifestation as Jalakantheshwara. the temple are the atmospheric ruins from Bengaluru, which is also Built in 1467 during the Sadashiva of a long street of short pillared Kodandarama Temple connected by deluxe and ST buses, Raya period, the temple is named mandapas, formerly called Achyutapet, Dedicated to Kodandarama or ‘Rama KSRTC bus fare is `650-782 after Badavi, an old woman who but more popular as Sooley Bazaar or with a bow’, the temple is situated worshipped the linga. Courtesan’s Street. opposite Chakratirtha, the most

338 Karnataka Karnataka 339 north Karnataka HAMPI sacred bathing ghat on the complex are the Sabha Mandap, a Tungabhadra. The sanctum 100-pillared meeting hall and the sanctorum has 15 ft tall figures of Kalyan Mandap or marriage hall for Rama, Sita and Lakshmana carved the royal family. The Natya Mandap on a natural boulder. It is believed or Dancing Hall is also known as the that after defeating Vali, Rama Saptasvara Mandap famed for its crowned Sugreeva as the monkey musical pillars. When tapped, the king at this spot. pillars emit the sound of 56 musical instruments including — jaltarang, Vitthala Temple veena, tabla, pancha tala and damru. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu’s form The Sapta-svara Khamb with its 16 Vitthala, the temple in local lore was pillars resonates with the seven surs deemed so opulent that even Lord (notes). The Stone Chariot facing Vishnu found it too grand and the temple is in itself a miniature returned to his humble home! shrine with an image of Garuda, Construction began in 1513 under resembling a temple chariot or ratha the reign of Krishnadeva Raya and in which temple idols are taken out continued by Achyuta Deva and in procession. Built in 1516 from a Sadasiva Raya. It suffered destruction monolithic boulder, only the wheels in the Muslim invasion of 1565. The of the chariot were added externally. main structures in the temple In the past, the wheels could actually Visitors throng the Vitthala Temple move in the past but were cemented The view from Koti Linga is serene later. The chariot was originally Purandaradasa Mandapa right at the southern edge of the drawn by horses, which were Adjoining the Vijaya Vittala temple Tungabhadra river bank. Nearby, lies damaged in 1565 and were ultimately is a 60-pillared mandapa or pavilion a sheet rock with streaks that are replaced by elephants. consecrated to Purandara Dasa, a explained as marks made by Sita’s holy saint of the Haridasa movement garments as she was passing by. King’s Balance (Tulabhara) who is hailed as the pitamaha When Sugreeva showed Rama the Southwest of the Vitthala Temple, (grandfather) of Carnatic music. This jewels, which the latter recognised as the King’s Balance is a giant pair of is where he is said to have composed Sita’s, it was decided that Lord Rama scales, where the kings of Vijaynagara and sung in praise of Vitthala or Lord would kill Vali and Sugreeva, along weighed themselves in gold on Vishnu. Used on religious occasions with his army of monkeys, would in festive occasions like Coronation for anushthana (austerities) and on return help Rama find Sita. Day (Tulapurusha Dana), New Year Jan 14 for aradhana (worship), the and eclipses. Gold or its equivalent mandapa with a white-washed top Kotilinga was distributed to the Brahmans and has traditionally been used by sages Carved on a massive boulder located the needy. The structure consists of to meditate. Today, people wash near the Tungabahdra river is a large two 15 ft granite pillars with a stone clothes on its stone slabs. square mandala which features a host beam, the underside of which of stone lingas known as Koti linga displays three hoops. Carved into Sugreeva’s Cave (koti — meaning a crore). Near it is a the stone floor are images of a great The cavern where Sugreeva hid Sita’s beautiful and intricate carving of number of people prostrating in jewels for safety is known as Padmanabhaswamy or Lord Vishnu front of the king. Sugreeva’s Cave and can be found resting on Anantha.

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prashant panjiar Royal Enclosure doors that served as the palace gates. The sprawling Royal Enclosure or Originally found in 13 pieces, they Palace Area is a miniature city within were joined together and are now on Hampi that housed palaces, pavilions, public display. temples, audience halls, royal baths and stables. Mahanavmi Dibba Erected in 1513 to commemorate King’s Palace Krishnadeva Raya’s victorious Only the base of the King’s Palace campaign over Prataprudra Gajapati remains in what was once the largest of Odisha, it is also known as House enclosure in Hampi with an of Victory. Later, it was used by the underground chamber that served as king to view public festivities during a treasury and private hall. The the 9-day Navratri festival which led Underground Chamber and Public to it being referred to as the Dasara Bath are in a state of disrepair; as is Platform or Mahanavami Dibba. The the hundred-pillared Audience Hall existing structure is a three-tiered described by Abdur Razzaq as the base, the lowest being 40 sq m and loftiest building in the citadel. the top-most 24 sq m. Its walls depict Outside the enclosure are two stone scenes from everyday life during Vijayanagara times. Lotus Mahal Pushkarni The Elephant Stables can be recognized by their striking Indo-Islamic architecture This stepped tank with a depth of 7 m and an area of 22 sq m was watchtower to the left of this vast the famous Elephant Stables is an excavated as recently as 1986 and is tier used to be guarded by eunuchs. Indo-Islamic structure. More or less in excellent condition since it was intact, only the central room has lost well preserved underground. Made Lotus Mahal its superstructure. Persian ambassador of schist, the tank was used by royals A two-storeyed structure that Abdur Razzaq noted in his unique and for religious purposes. The resembles lotus petals when seen memoirs that the royal elephants symmetric design of the five tiers is from above, the Chitragni Mahal is used to be tied by chains to an iron breathtaking beyond belief. better known as Lotus Mahal. Built hook embedded in the ceiling of for Tirumala Devi, the favourite each room. Zenana Enclosure queen of Krishnadeva Raya, it is a North of the King’s Palace is the beautiful hybrid of Islamic, Hindu Hazara Rama Temple Zenana or Ladies Quarters, which and Jain styles of architecture. The According to popular belief, the housed the Queen’s Palace, water plain narrow block of stairs suggests temple gets its name from the pavilions and quarters for attendants. that it was an afterthought; perhaps numerous bas-reliefs depicting scenes Since it housed women, it had three the architect forgot to add a staircase from the Ramayana, hence Hazara watchtowers manned by guards and in the original plan! Rama or the Temple of a thousand a high wall with four sham entrances Ramas. But the name is actually and no prominent gateway. Nothing Elephant Stables derived from Hajana Rama, meaning remains of the ornate Queen’s Palace Drum-shaped octagonal domes ‘palace temple’ in the Telugu except the basement. The Shikhandi capping the eleven massive rooms, language. Situated at the entrance of shutterstock

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prashant panjiar the royal palace enclosure, this was a is more or less intact, showing private temple for the royal family. Muslim influence in its elegant Dedicated to Lord Rama, the inner domes and arches. sanctum was erected in 1422 while the external structure came up in Queen’s Bath 1666. Shilpi (sculptor) Mudannachari Further en route to Kamalapura, lies Somannachari is credited as the the Queen’s Bath. Built for architect of this unique temple, the Krishnadeva Raya’s chief queen only such in Hampi with rich Tirumala Devi, the 8ft deep pool carvings on the external walls. encompassed by a plain square Nearby are the splendid ruins of the exterior has decorated corridors and taksal or mint. beautiful arched windows and balconies inside. Dandanayak Watchtower Past the erstwhile market of Standing where the third wall of Vijayvithalapura, are the ghostly Vijayanagar used to be, the ‘Danaik’ remains of the Heera-moti bazaar, or Dandanayak Watchtower, is once a roaring 16th century market named after the army commander. of precious stones. To the left is The area around it used to be Hazari Panduranga Tank and further Rampur and guards kept a close ahead, a structure called Vasanta The Hazara Rama Temple in Hampi depicts scenes from the Ramayana watch over any possible intruders. Utsav Mandap. A Kalyana Mandapa While there were many such towers, built in 1512, it served as a marriage exhausted after their tour of Hampi temple blessed with natural air- this is the most significant one that hall for soldiers. Bhima’s Gate is a on foot, cursed the hot rocky citadel conditioning. gateway dedicated to the Pandava and called it names. When the sisters Malyavanta Hill, to Raghunath Temple hero Bhima, the side-walls depict leaned against each other tiredly, a Malyavanta Raghunath Temple scenes from the Mahabharata such local sage turned them into stone! In Also accessible by vehicle, this temple as Bhima slaying Kichaka and 1992, the tremors of the Latur atop Malyavanta Hill is a sacred site. Draupadi tying up her hair. Situated earthquake were felt as far down as The cave shrine has a large bas relief on the road to Kampili, is the Hampi, causing the boulder on the of Lord Rama, Lakshmana, Sita and Ganigitti Temple or commonly, the right to crack into two; both halves Hanuman. It was atop Malyavanta ‘Oil Woman’s’ Temple. It was now sit unperturbed. Hill that Lord Rama and Lakshmana actually a Jain shrine, built in 1385 supposedly waited for four months by Iruga, a minister of Bukka II Underground Virupaksha Temple to tide over the monsoons before during the reign of Harihara II. One of the oldest temples in Hampi, they marched to Lanka with the the Underground Temple is dedicated vanara sena (monkey army) to Other Monuments to Prasanna Virupaksha and was retrieve Sita. An akhanda Ramayana built during Sangam rule in the 14th patha goes on continuously here. Sister Stones century and improved in 1517 by The oddly named Akka-Tangi Gundu Krishnadeva Raya. This temple was Hampi Archaeological Museum, or Sister Stones refer to two massive discovered during excavations in Kamalapura boulders that lean against each other. 1923 in a state of utter disrepair. The Started in 1972 and maintained by According to local lore, around 1510, temple sanctum is perennially the Archaeological Survey of India, two sisters Yellamma and Bullamma, underwater, making it a water-cooled the small but useful Archaeological

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Museum on Daroji-Kamalapura Road local community a name which is displays sculptures and artefacts carved in stone today. unearthed from excavations at Gagan Mahal, the 16th century Hampi. The scale model of Hampi royal palace, houses a government exhibited here gives a bird’s eye view office and an ancient Durga temple. and full scale of the ruins. The ASI Also worth a look are the old north Kamalapuram publishes a booklet on and south gateways, Ranganatha Hampi, which includes a map that is Temple, a Jain temple with solid available here, if in stock. pillars and Huchchappayana Matha Entry `5 Timings: 9am-5pm Temple, a dilapidated structure near the river with black stone lathe- North of the River turned pillars and fine panels of graceful dancers. Anegundi Anegundi has beautiful vernacular During the reign of the Vijayanagar architecture, best enjoyed on a walk kings, the royal elephants were through its streets lined with houses brought from their stables in Hampi sporting ornate windows, doorframes to be stationed closer to the river, for and pillars. Located on an island and a proper bath. Over time, this reachable by coracle or boat is the pachyderm halt came to be known sacred complex of Nava Brindavana. Anegundi Gagan Mahal, which houses an ancient Durga temple as ane-gundi (elephant hole) by the It houses the mortal remains of nine Madhva saints, prominently hand combat with his brother using these very rocks. Whatever Chintamani, where Rama killed Vali Madhvacharya’s disciple Sugreeva. The exact spot is marked they could not take with them Padmanabha Tirtha and Mantralaya on a boulder near the riverbank, remained, as one finds them now in Sri Raghavendra Swamy’s guru which bears the imprint of a weapon, Hampi. A porous rock, in the custody Sudheendra Tirtha. One must observe which Lord Rama had placed to be of spiritual caretaker Baba Ram Das, silence and avoid crossing the yellow used against Vali. The site where Vali is claimed to be a piece of bone demarcation lines as the seers are fell is indicated by a stambh (pillar) belonging to Vali. said to be in samadhi. on the other side of the Tungabhadra. Stay in heritage lodgings like A big mound of ash in present-day Shabri Gupha Uramma Heritage Home (named Nimbapuram village alludes to the The Ramayana mentions a pious old after the village goddess) and cremated remains of Vali. lady called Shabri, a disciple of Sage Peshegar House, run by The Matanga who tasted ber (wild berries) Kishkindha Trust, who also have a Pampa Sarovar before offering the choicest ones to Shorba café and craft store selling This unassuming lotus-filled tank is Lord Rama. Owing to her low caste, popular banana fibre products. regarded as one of the four holy Shabri had been chased away by (Tel: 08533 267793, 267662 sarovars created on earth by Brahma local seers sometime earlier and took W thekishkindatrust.org) before the descent of River Ganga. up lodging in a humble cave near The backdrop of Pampa Sarovar is a Pampa Sarovar. Almost immediately, Chintamani wall of rocks that holds the rocky the water turned muddy. On Rama’s Chintamani is the riverside spot citadel of Vali Killa and Durga arrival, the people complained to from where Lord Rama shot his Temple. Legend has it that the army him about it. To his surprise, instead arrow to kill Vali during his hand-to- of monkeys built the bridge to Lanka of purifying the pond, even his

346 Karnataka Karnataka 347 north Karnataka HAMPI divine touch made it dirtier. Sensing When no visions came to him, he the reason to be the injustice meted thought of quitting in disgust. But to Shabri, he asked her to take a dip that very night, Goddess Lakshmi in Pampa Sarovar. By restoring her appeared in his sleep and asked him honour, the water became fresh to make a wish. The sage mockingly again, as it remains to this day. The asked for a rain of gold for an hour white washed cave has Lord Rama’s and 15 minutes. Lo and behold, the charana paduka (foot imprints) and a next day it rained gold. A temple was sooty dhuni (sacrificial fire). Naturally built for the goddess of wealth in air-cooled, the cave once led to an 1336 with an idol cast out of pure underground path 4.5 km from gold. Roping in Harihara-Bukka, Pampa Sarovar to Pampapur (Hampi), Vidyaranya Swami laid the opening out near the Virupaksha foundation of the Vijayanagara Temple under the Tungabhadra, Empire and urged the brothers to which has long been closed. move the capital south of the Tungabhadra. A rare figure of Lakshmi Temple Vidyaranya Swami can be seen in a Vidyaranya Swami, the seer from small niche in a subsidiary chamber. Sringeri Math undertook a penance at this spot for 24 years, meditating Anjanadri on the dwindling Hindu might. The jagged white streak on the Anjanadri Hanuman Temple, believed to be the birthplace of the monkey god Anjanadri Hill seen from a distance Sanapur Lake is a scenic locale marks the 550 whitewashed steps up built by Kampabhupa, the brother of Camera `50 Timings 10am-6pm; to a famous hilltop temple and the Emperor Harihara II in 14th century Open All days Sightseeing Tour rewarding view it presents. About and connected present-day Ballari KSRTC bus tour (Full day): `425 pp halfway up, Anjani Gupha, a cave district to Raichur across the Timings 9am-5.30pm dedicated to Hanuman’s mother Tungabhadra river. Tip The tour ticket does not cover Anjana can be seen. The cave has an entry fee underground network that has been Sanapur Lake Bouldering The main climbing blocked. A further ascent leads to the A natural lake expanded into an hangout is Goan Corner. Kishkinda Hanuman Temple on the summit, irrigation reservoir, Sanapur Lake is a Trust (Cell: 09449284496) offers the birthplace of the Monkey God, scenic locale surrounded by rocky equipment and instructions. which till date is guarded by monkeys. hills and boulders. The road is lined Tip Distances between monuments Watch out for food items; the with paddy and banana fields and are considerable, so hiring a cycle is monkeys can be quite aggressive. wends past boulders to reach the recommended. The ruins are The hike is best done early morning lake. Warning signs discourage secluded after sunset so avoid with alluring views of the sunrise visitors from swimming in the lake, moving around alone especially over the boulders, river and fields. which has slippery boulders and with valuables. crocodiles! A few boatmen ply Old Stone Bridge coracles for tourists. SHOPPING Also known as Halle Kallena Setvi Entry fee Vittala Temple & (Old Stone Bridge) in Kannada, or Palace Area Indians `40; Foreigners Hampi Bazaar has a colourful popularly, Hanuman Bridge, it was `750-800 (Same day ticket for both) assortment of bric-a-brac and a host

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of hippy-tinged clothing and WHERE TO EAT accessories. Bargain for junk jewellery, tie-n-dye scarves, kurtas and Hampi Bazaar has several rooftop wraparound skirts, mirrorwork jholas cafes serving Indian thalis, South and bags etc. In Anegundi, The Indian meals, Punjabi food and Kishkindha Trust’s Shorba Workshop Continental food. From humus and has skilled local artisans’ woven macaroni, to banana and Nutella products from shorba or banana fibre pancakes, wood fired pizzas and — mats, bags, chappals, clothes and German breads, Hampi’s food other knick-knacks. Evolve Back offerings are varied and global, Kamalapura Palace Hampi has a having been home to several good boutique as well. Hotel Malligi Westerners who overstayed from the in Hospet has a good in-house 60s and seen the influx of Israelis boutique and well-stocked bookstore. recently. Meat and alcohol are not Traditional Kinhal craft like toys, served in Hampi because of the site’s wood carvings, table tops, cradles, religious importance but is available cots, chairs and other collectibles are just across the river and at KSTDC’s available at the nearby village of Mayura Bhuvaneswari at Kinhal, 30 km from Hospet. At Kala Kamalapura. Mango Tree, moved Kushala Kendra in Sandur, Lambanis from its riverside patch to the main Hampi’s food offerings are varied and global, thanks to the influx of Westerners and local villagers make handicrafts, bazaar, serves excellent Indian and bamboo art and Lambani dresses. Western food from pancakes and be arranged only on prior request; 09481715421, 09449633839; Tariff poori-alu to sangria. Other hotspots otherwise there are plenty of `1,000-1,400) with 7 rooms hot Ornaments at Hampi Bazaar include Funky Monkey and Gopi restaurants nearby. Pushpa Guest water, TV and Internet. Rooftop in the main bazaar besides House (Tel: 241440; Cell: Across the River the Uramma Goan Corner and Laughing Buddha 094862677099; Tariff: `900-1,800) Heritage Homes (Cell: 09448284658; across the river. In Hospet, Waves Bar has 6 rooms and provides hot water Tariff: Rs.3,200-4,500) in Anegundi & Restaurant at Malligi is very good. and wi-fi. Rocky Guest House (Tel: Village, offers seven ethnic rooms, Evolve Back Hampi’s Tuluva 241951; Cell: 09449763221; Tariff: shared bathrooms, garden dining Restaurant serves a massive `800-2200 +breakfast; TE ) may be a area, wi-fi, taxi service and local Vijayanagara Thali, besides Nizami better bet with 7 rooms, restaurant, cuisine. Hampi Boulders Resort cuisine at Bahmani restaurant and hot water, TV, parking and room (Cell: 09448034202; Tariff: `7,691- drinks at Howdah Bar. service. Another option here on the 17,972 + breakfast) at Narayanpet, Jantha Plot in Hampi Bazaar is Gopi Bandi Harlapura PO has 20 luxury Where to stay Guest House & Restaurant (Tel: cottages with attached baths, 241695; Cell: 08762166122, separate sit-outs overlooking the In Hampi Bazaar Ranjana 08349241695; Tariff: `1,000-3,000 + river and a rock landscape. Activities Guesthouse (Tel: 241696; Cell: breakfast; TE) with rooms with include wildlife safaris, nature treks, 09448989304; Tariff: `1,000-1,500) attached bath, hot water, good fishing, beach volleyball, river located behind the Government rooftop restaurant serving Indian rafting, rock climbing, birdwatching School offers 8 simple rooms with thalis and Conti, wi-fi and can and visits to Hampi, Anegundi and TV and wi-fi. There’s no room arrange local transport. Lakshmi Krishna Deva Raya Wildlife service, no food, but breakfast can Heritage Tourist Home (Cell: Sanctuary. The Kishkinda Heritage

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Resort (Tel: 287037; Cell: The Goan Corner (Tel: 287002/ 94; 09449144167, 08762286168; Tariff: Cell: 09448212621; Tariff: On `3,400-5,600 + breakfast + water request) in Virupapura Gaddi, park; TE) near Broken Stone Bridge Hampi Island, has an open-air dorm Cross, Sanapur, Gangavathi Taluk ( 24 pax) — mattresses and mosquito offers 29 AC and Non-AC cottages, nets provided, a restaurant, rents amusement park, boating, swimming crash mats for bouldering by the pool, restaurant and bar. day and organizes transport. Shanthi Guest House (Tel: 287038; Cell: 09449260162; Tariff: In Kamalapura and Around `1,624-2,100) in Virupapur Gadde, You can opt for KSTDC’s Mayura Sanapur Post has 24 rooms and Bhuvaneshwari (Tel: 241574; Cell: cottages with views of paddy fields 08970650025; Tariff: `2,464-5,300) or garden, multi-cuisine restaurant, located near the ASI Museum and 24 hr hot water, laundry, wi-fi, bike Kamalapura Bus Stand and has 30 rental and travel desk. Located here rooms, 6 dorms (10-bedded) ,a also is Mowgli Guest House (Cell: restaurant, bar, wifi and arranges 09481072921; Tariff: `1,000-2,000; guides on request. The Clarks Inn TE) with 35 rooms and cottages Hampi (Tel: 241245; Tariff: `4,000 + with verandahs and balconies or breakfast); TE ) has a 38 spacious Evolve Back Kamalapura Palace Jal Mahal is a promise of grand luxury swing beds, restaurant and lounge rooms, a multi-cuisine restaurant, serving Italian and Israeli food, pool and lounge bar. The Heritage Resort Orchid Central Keerti (Tel: 300100; furniture, Lambani wall hangings, table, hot water, travel desk. The Hampi (Cell: 09845602838; Tariff: Tariff: `6,000-1,00,000 + breakfast) dining hall, darbar hall, vintage car `6,600-11,930 + breakfast; TE) at on Station Road. This 4-star hotel museum, bar and billiards room and Forest Department Guest House Hosamalapanagud has Deluxe, offers 134 rooms, 24 hr dining, a well-stocked library. Jacuzzi and Pool Villas, the Kishkinda outdoor pool and a fitness centre. Restaurant a swimming pool, a The Hotel Malligi (Tel: 228101-08; For more, see Hampi Accommodation games room and a spa. The Hampi Tariff: `2,800-3,600 + breakfast; TE) Listings on pages 436-437 Heritage & Wilderness Resort (Cell: has 106 rooms, a restaurant, 09449597874, 07019710511; Tariff: swimming pool, handicrafts shop AROUNDs `4,250-7,250 + meals, jeep safari, and bookstore KSTDC’s Hotel entry fee; TE pp) near Kannada Mayura Vijayanagara (Tel: 259270; Daroji Sloth Bear Sanctuary University, P.K.Halli Road, Cell: 08970650002; Tariff: Rs.999- (21km) Kamalapura offers 21 cottages jeep 1,500 + breakfast; TE) opposite Govt. Located not far from the World safaris, campfire and film screenings. PU College, Dam Road, Dam Circle Heritage Site of Hampi where Lord Hyatt Place Hampi (Tel: 08395- Tungabhadra Dam, Ballari can be Rama encountered the vanaras 661234; Tariff: `4,037-9,000 + accessed from Hospet; it has 20 (monkeys), Daroji is believed to be breakfast) in Vidyanagar Township, rooms,a restaurant, beer parlour, the place where he met Jambavanth, Toranagallu also offers rooms with gardens and dam view. On Palace the bear. Locals believe that the sloth outdoor plunge pools, a 24/7 Road, Sandur, head for Shivavilas bear population in the area is because restaurant, chic bar, outdoor pool, Palace Hotel (Tel: 260223/309/310; of this encounter. Spread over 82.72 business centre, gym and free wi-fi. Tariff: `6500-15,000 + breakfast; TE) sq km of dry deciduous scrub, In Hospet check out the Royal for its 12 heritage rooms, vintage southern thorn forests and a boulder-

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shutterstock ridden landscape full of caves, this is grey francolin, yellow throated indeed the perfect habitat for bears. bulbul etc.The new Nature Covering the Bilikallu Reserve Forest Interpretation centre at Daroji has and Bukkasagar Reserve Forest in large framed photos of the region’s Sandur and Hospet taluks of Ballari wildlife in an inner courtyard lined district, the sanctuary was established with palms and hunting trophies in 1994 exclusively for the with natural light streaming in preservation of sloth bears. Since the through a skylight. An inner chamber area is surrounded by sugarcane has info panels on local flora, fauna fields and fruiting trees like Ber and and birdlife. There’s also a stuffed Mahuva with easy access to food tiger in a glass case on display. Jungle sources like ants, termites and forest Lodges & Resorts runs a no-frills honey, the bears live like kings. jungle camp on Daroji road near While the sanctuary is open from Kamalapura. Local wildlife guide sunrise to sunset, the best time to Pompayya Malemath (Cell: 094491 visit is late afternoon when bears 36252) organises 2-3 hour tours to descend from adjacent hillocks to Daroji with pick up, drop, entry fees, feed. A watchtower and machan etc and has a hide near the Forest overlooking Karadikallu Gudda (Bear Department for enthusiasts of bird Rock Hill) provide the perfect vantage and animal photography. point to view the bears. Over 150 Entry fee `50 Indians, `300 TB Dam has boating facility, a small aquarium, and a musical fountain species of birds can be spotted in and Foreigners, Vehicle `500 Timings around Daroji — painted spurfowl, 6am-6pm (TB) Dam are opened, a symbolic was his southern headquarters. gesture practiced by all dams to Renowned for its ancient temples Daroji Sloth Bear Sanctuary TB Dam (24km) celebrate India’s independence. and wells, it allegedly had 700 A tributary of the Krishna River, the temples, 700 wells and 700 dwellings Tungabhadra originates as two Kanakagiri (38 km) of shepherds at one time! Kanakagiri streams Tunga and Bhadra near A famous Kannada saying goes: is considered so sacred that people Shimoga in the Western Ghats, Kanniddavaru Kanakagiri nodi, who are unable to make it to Tirupati which join at Lakolli Dam, 50 km kaliddavaru Hampi suthi (Those with satisfy themselves by visiting the from Hospet. The Pampa Sagar or eyes, see Kanakagiri, those with feet temple here, supposedly considered Tungabhadra Dam at Munirabad in roam around Hampi). A small town the ‘second Tirupati’. Parasappa Koppal district was opened in 1953. 20 km from Gangavathi in Koppal Nayaka, commander of the Parking at the entrance, visitors can district, Kanakagiri is located at Vijayanagar king Prouda Devaraya take a shuttle for a guided tour of the Triveni Sangam or the sacred built the present Kanakachalapathi bridge, the landscaped garden and confluence of three rivers, Ajanta, temple in 14th century, but an the Sunset Point on top of the hill Pushpa and Gopika. ancient shrine existed earlier. for excellent views from Vaikunth This is the ancient spot where Discovered accidently by a cowherd Guest House. There’s boating facility, Kanaka muni undertook a rigorous Hudichappa Nayaka, who noticed a small aquarium and a musical penance and the skies rained gold, his cow emptying her milk over an fountain with light and sound show giving the place its name. It was also anthill. The saligrama or sacred stone at 7:10 pm. On August 15 every year, called Suvarnagiri or ‘golden hill’, discovered here was enshrined and the 33 doors of the Tungabhadra during the reign of Ashoka when it devotees venerated the linga in its

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first abode of Murugan or Karthikeya in South India. Around 10km from Sandur towards Toranagallu, is the scenic Narihalla, a reservoir with two massive rocks formations that became the famous filming locale of Puttana Kanagal’s Kannada movie Manasa Sarovara. While in Sandur stop at Kushala Kala Kendra for some interesting Lambani crafts as souvenirs. (Check out W sandurkushalakala. com)

Ballari (62 km) Ballari (earlier Bellary) is known for its kote (fort) built atop the hill Ballari Gudda. Rising around 460 ft A sculpted pillar in Kanakagiri from the plains below, the upper hill fort was built by Hanumappa Nayaka, Hordes of local kids gleefully slide a feudatory of the Vijayanagara down the sloping rockface. Ballari Fort, whose faulty renovation led to a death sentence for a Frenchman Empire and the lower part by Hyder Ali in late 18th century. Sanganakallu (66 km) garbagriha, as Laxmi Narasimha. the square Sandur Fort dotted with The Vijayanagara ruler employed An ancient archaeological site from Within the temple complex is an bastions, accessible by a zigzag path a French engineer for the renovation the Neolithic period (around 3000 unusual Parameshwara statue through a series of three gateways. of the forts but on completion, it BC), it is a group of hills south of a depicting Shiva in his nijaswaroopa Shiva Vilas Palace of the Ghorpades turned out that the forts were on a horseshoe shaped valley. Spread over (full form) and not as a linga, besides has been converted into an lower level than the opposite hill. 1,000 acres, it is believed to be one of a rare chaturmukhi (4-faced) idol of atmospheric heritage hotel. For this strategic blunder, Hyder Ali the earliest settlements in South Lord Brahma. About 10km from Sandur is ordered the French architect to be India. First excavated in 1946 and The temple has beautifully carved Krauncha Giri, an elliptical mountain hanged at the fort’s east gate. The again in 1964, the discovery of an pillars and several stone and wooden with a narrow pass that was described grave of the unfortunate architect unusually large number of stone statues, plaster models with stories by Kalidasa in his famous work, the dates back to the year 1769. axes, tools like stone hammers, from the epics sculpted on its walls Megha Sandesa. Follow the steps from the base chisels and picks, besides pottery and Lord Vishnu’s Dasavatara According to legend, this gap was which pass through rocks onto a indicate that it was perhaps a depicted on its pillars. made when Kartikeya pierced the plateau and the entrance of the fort. Neolithic factory site. ■ mountain with his vel (spear) in a Sandur (42 km) battle with the demon Taraka hidden An erstwhile princely state ruled by inside the mountain. The forest the Ghorpade royal family of range is named Swamimale and the #Awesomekarnataka Marathas, Sandur lies on the southern 8th-10th century Kumaraswami edge of the original Vijayanagara Temple built on a hilltop by the metropolitan area. Of significance is Rashtrakutas is believed to be the

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refined at Badami in 6th and 7th centuries, culminating at Pattadakal in 7th and 8th centuries. The temples built were sandhara (with pradakshina path) or nirandhara (without circumambulatory path), as they toyed with various superstructures over the sanctum — shikhara (tapered), mundamala (without superstructure), rekhaprasada (Northern smooth curvilinear), vimana (Dravidian) to Kadamba- Chalukya shikhara (fusion). Blending the Nagara style of north Indian temples with the older south Indian Dravidian architecture, the Chalukyas created a signature fusion style called Vesara.

anurag mallick Agastya Tirtha Lake, where sage Agastya vanquished two demons between the 4th and 8th centuries AD. The first king Pulakesin I (540- Badami 66 AD) strengthened the fort and FAST FACTS was a great patron of art, culture When to go Between September and Stone Immaculate and architecture. His grandson February. Summer in this region is hot Pulakesin II (609-42) built a vast Tourist office ■ anurag mallick & name Badami, or ‘almond coloured’. empire extending from Narmada in ● Dept of Tourism PRIYA GANAPATHY The sun emblazons the stone ridges the north to Cauvery in the south. Govt of Karnataka, Hotel Mayura in myriad hues of red, pink, ochre The chief city Vatapiadhishtana Chalukya KSTDC, Badami adami is situated at the and orange, depending on the time served as the capital from 540 to Tel: 08357-220414 southernmost point of the of the day. This spectacular setting 757 AD until it was wrested by the Cell: 09538430065 BDeccan Trap, at the mouth of might seem like Grand Canyon until Jain Rashtrakutas. The Chalukyas ● Department of Tourism a ravine between two red sandstone the sight of women in vibrant Ilkal were prolific builders and used Government of Karnataka cliffs overlooking the cool green saris and men sporting spotless Badami’s rocks as their canvas and No. 49, Second Floor, Khanija Bhavan waters of Agastya Tirtha Lake. Here, Gandhi topis, brings one back to building blocks, hewing out rock Race Course Road, Bengaluru sage Agastya vanquished the demon reality with a bump. cut caves and experimenting with Tel: 22352828 brothers Vatapi and Ilvala, cursing Badami or Vatapi served as the different types of temple architecture Email: [email protected], that they turn into stone hillocks. capital of the great Chalukyan in all their wondrous avatars. W karnatakatourism.org, The rocky outcrop surrounding the Empire, which brought the whole of A virtual laboratory for Chalukyan karnatakaholidays.net lake on three sides bears natural Karnataka under one rule and architects, their experiments at STD code 08357 peach streaks giving the place its controlled most of peninsular India Aihole in the 5th century were

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anurag mallick Start with Badami’s rock-cut Aihole, hailed as the ‘cradle of south caves, gateways, forts, inscriptions Indian temple architecture’. and sculptures. Vestiges dating to the pre-historic era dot the landscape THINGS TO SEE AND DO as dolmen (stone structures for burial) and rock shelters with rare Visitors brave the heat and the cave paintings dating to the ascent, fending off troupes of Mesolithic Age. Short detours lead persistent monkeys swinging about to the venerated temple towns of to see Badami’s key sights, found in Banashankari and Mahakuta on to three major clusters — the first one the sacred temple complex of being the South Fort with its four Pattadakal, renowned Coronation famous rock-cut cave temples, then City of the Chalukyan kings, 24 km the North Fort with ruins of the fort away. Further downstream along and palace complex and the Agastya the Malaprabha river, lies dusty Tirtha lake and its surrounding temples and monuments.

South Fort The rock-cut caves (Cave 1, 2, 3 and 4) hewn out of red sandstone are at four levels on the precipice of a hill Lord Vishnu seated on Sheshnaga, a wonderful example of rock-cut art getting there connected by steep flights of stairs. Air Nearest airport: Hubballi Airport, Caves 1 and 2 are of northern Deccan adjoining wall depicts Goddess riding his vahana Garuda. The which is linked to Bengaluru, Mumbai, style of 6th-7th century and similar Durga as Mahishasura Mardhini and ceiling is dotted with images of Hyderabad, Tirupathi and Jindal to Ellora Caves. In contrast to the once inside the 70 ft X 65 ft verandah soaring celestial couples and the Vidyanagar by SpiceJet and StarAir. spartan exteriors, the interiors are are imposing sculptures of Harihara lotus motif encircled by fish and Taxi to Badami from Hubballi costs luxuriously carved with ornate (half-Shiva, half-Vishnu form) and swastika symbols. Friezes show the `2,700 appx, depending on AC or non- pillars, delicate friezes, sculptures of Ardhanarishvara or fused half male- samudra manthan (churning of the AC taxi gods and goddesses, bracket figures half feminine form of Shiva and ocean) and scenes of Krishna’s Rail Badami Railway Station is of amorous demigods and ceilings Parvati. The ceilings vividly childhood. King Kirtivarman I, who connected to Bengaluru, Mysuru, embellished with elaborate flowers showcase erotic couples. ascended the throne in 567, ordered Hubballi, Vijayapura and Solapur, by and foliage. Cave 2: Walk through a forecourt the carving of this temple in 578. Solapur Express, Gol Gumbaz Express, Cave 1: Climb around 40 steps to and climb 64 steps to enter Cave 2, Cave 3: Trudge up 60 steps to the Secunderabad-Hubli Express, Varanasi- reach the lowermost and oldest flanked by celestial guardians and largest and most spectacular of the Hubli Express etc. cave, 59 ft above ground level. pot bellied dwarves. Four ornate four caves, with the richest traces of Road 500 km from Bengaluru via Dating to 6th century, it is dedicated pillars with carvings of the mythical painting. Marvel at the grand figure Chitradurga, Hospet and Kushtagi; turn to Lord Shiva and enshrines a linga. yali support the temple, which has of Lord Vishnu seated on the coiled right after Gajendragarh towards The side wall has captivating figures less detailed carvings than the first snake Adisesha, with smaller carved Badami (70 km/1 1.5 hrs from there of the 18-armed Nataraja in his cave. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, he images of Indra on his elephant Bus A deluxe bus from Bengaluru’s cosmic dance Tandava, striking 81 is depicted in his avatars as Varaha Airavata, Brahma on a swan and Majestic Stand leaves daily at 8.30 pm Natya mudras (dance poses). Guides the boar rescuing Bhoodevi (Mother Shiva riding the bull, on the ceiling. and reaches Badami at 7.30 am will often conceal various arms to Earth), Vamana in his Trivikrama Numerous forms of Lord Vishnu are explain the dance postures. The pose vanquishing Bali and Vishnu depicted here including Narasimha,

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Photographs by shutterstock Viraata purusha, Harihara and North Fort Trivikrama. The sculptures give A dramatic climb on the path behind insight into the lifestyle in ancient the Archaeological Museum leads to times, especially trends in fashion, a sandstone chasm with fortified jewellery and hairstyle. gateways and early 7th century ruins Cave 4: Located east of Cave 3 of the north fort, a good place to get and 10 ft lower is the smallest and a bird’s eye view of Badami. An early most recent of the cave temples. An morning climb is rewarding for 8th century Jain cave, two dwarapalas photography as the valley is bathed (gate keepers) guard the entrance. in the soft glow of sunrise and the The walls have major carvings of cave temples to the south side are Parshvanath, Mahavira on a lion reflected in the shimmering Agastya throne and Bahubali in standing Tirtha Lake. The multi-storey posture covered in vines, besides mandapas, an underground chamber seated tirthankaras and other Jain that served as a treasury or private iconography. Nearby is an 18th audience hall, numerous platforms, century Muslim tomb of Siddi Abdul double fortification walls and Aziz Malik. remnants of a treasury, granary, watchtower and three Shiva shrines, Carved idols inside the Badami Cave are worth a look. The outer walls of the Lower Shivalaya, have been dismantled and only the towered sanctuary remains. The Upper Bhutanatha Temple, dedicated to Shiva as the god of souls, spirits and ghosts Shivalaya has many friezes and sculptures depicting Krishna’s life on in 5th century, to trap the rainwater Bhutanatha Temple the west wall and episodes from the runoff escaping down the mountain. On the lake’s eastern end stands the Ramayana on the south face — It’s believed the waters flow through Bhutanatha Temple dedicated to Kumbhakarna being awoken from medicinal herbs and minerals Shiva’s form as the god of souls, slumber and Rama vanquishing imbuing it with healing powers. spirits and ghosts. It dates back to demons. The square vimana or tower Around twenty temples are 7th century with the outer mantapa over the well-preserved sanctuary is spread around the tank including added in 11th century during the crowned by a kuta or square. The shrines of Nagamma, Vishnu and late Kalyani Chalukyan age. The Malegitti Shivalaya happens to be Shiva, chiefly the Bhutanatha temple was built in that corner the oldest and finest preserved temple. The gradient of the lake specifically to enhance its beauty at example of the Dravida style of early near the temple is 7m and 10m on dusk. The platform extends into the Chalukyan architecture. the far side. In the rainy season, the east end of the tank, a picturesque moment the water level touches the setting. During the monsoon, a Agastya Tirtha & around last step, the water automatically waterfall cascades down the cliffs in drains out instead of flooding the the backdrop, adding to its charm. Agastya Tirtha Lake temple. Even at times of extreme The Shiva linga in the shrine was a Named after Sage Agastya, the jade heat and drought, the water remains. later addition after the original deity green Agastya Tirtha or Bhutanatha The only time it dried out completely was removed. Behind the temple a Lake is an artificial lake constructed was in 1942. small path leads to some boulder prashant panjiar

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anurag mallick carvings of Vishnu and his Yellamma or Suryanarayana incarnations and Jain figures seated Temple on a throne. Located at the west-end of the tank, the 11th century Yellamma temple Mallikarjuna Temple of late Chalukya period is notable for This temple cluster, located on the its tower. Its crimpled and layered northeast side of the tank dates to roof is a hybrid form of the curved the 11th century. The typical late shikharas of north India and Chalukya features include plain Dravidian pyramids. The east-facing walls, angled eaves over the mantapas idol has a chariot style shikhara. and stepped pyramidal towers with Since it was empty for some time, an deeply carved and closely spaced idol of Yellamma Devi was installed. horizontal courses. The shrine, dedicated to Shiva, is a smaller Koshtaraya Cave Temple building to the right of the main South east of the Bhutanatha Temple temple. Its intricate geometrical in a natural cavern under the cliff is columns have alternate cubical and Koshtaraya Cave. cylindrical designs, separated by According to local folklore, this polygonal bands. was the abode of a king suffering

The thousand-year-old Yellamma Temple, built in the late Chalukya period Sidlaphadi cave drawings are fascinating examples of prehistoric art Sidlaphadi cave drawings: Painted in blood

Rock art in the form of bruisings, engravings have no parallels in the rest of South India. and paintings dating back to the Neolithic Besides geometrical designs, there are period (4000-800BCE) can be found all scenes of significant social performances over the eastern part of North Karnataka. such as hunting, group dance, burying the There are nearly a dozen sites of painted dead, etc. which are less frequent. It is shelters around Badami dating back to the remarkable how they have survived Mesolithic Age (10,000BCE). A short hike centuries of storms, winds and fluctuating to Kutaganakeri (or Kutakankeri), 5km temperature. The outline drawings, most from Badami, beyond a cluster of huts in a commonly in colours like dark red, green shrub jungle, lie the fascinating prehistoric and white are in mineral colours mixed with Sidlaphadi cave drawings. Literally handi rakt (boar’s blood). Since many of ‘Lightning Rock’ in Kannada, the name is these cave shelters are situated on rock derived from the gaping holes in the natural faces that are quite difficult to access, they rock arch, formed when it was struck by have fortunately been untouched by lightning. Similar, but more clearly defined modern human intervention. Physical are the cave drawings in nearby fitness and good footwear is imperative as Ranganathaguda. The images of boars, the route is rocky and thorny. Guide striped animals and stick figures of humans Chandregunda Katageri (Tel: 08357- with exaggerated trunks or spinal chords, 240597, 09448823161).

364 Karnataka Karnataka 365 north Karnataka Badami from kushta rog or leprosy, who literature reflected in the vachanas quarantined himself in here. The and witticisms of poet Sarvajna. It Agastya Tirtha contained holy eulogises Kappe Arabhatta, believed mountain water that flowed through to be a Chalukyan warrior. Ayurvedic herbs thus acquiring medicinal properties. The ritual of Archaeological Museum his daily bath in the waters of this Beyond the caves, stands the museum tank, miraculously cured the king with unusual exhibits and sculptures and the cave was named Koshtaraya including Lajja-Gauri images of the in his memory. fertility cult which flourished in the era and an ancient Buddhist cave Kappe Arabhatta Inscription temple, the only natural cave among A cliff near the Bhutanatha temple all the other rock-cut temples. overlooking the northeast end of the Timings: 9am-5pm. lake at Tattukoti has a 7th century inscription in old Kannada, believed Jambulinga Temple to be the first example of a tripadi in Hidden by the tall buildings in the Kannada. The tripadi or native three- centre of Badami is the temple metre verse is a cryptic form of constructed in the year 699. The temple depicts Shiva as the Lord of A flower merchant in Badami the Jambu tree and has three shrines dedicated to the trinity. Several temples bear the characteristic Vesara style of Chalukyan art — a Back view of the Jambulinga Temple combination of North and South Indian styles. in the 6th century. The inscription directly from craftsmen near the on a hillock dated 543 AD is Banashankari temple. The area is Dattatreya Temple considered the oldest and reflects the also known for its wooden doorframes The 10th to 12th century temple is period of Pulakesin I (Vallabheswara) with vattala or carved strips, which dedicated to Lord Dattatreya, who is and gives a detailed account of the represent the prosperity of the owner; shown with a single head and four fort. Near the Bhutanata temple, on the wider the doorframe, the more hands like Vishnu, seated serenely in a rock, another ancient Pallava affluent the owner. A number of padmasana (lotus position). Carved inscription mentions Mamalla bangle shops and other stalls sell emblems of the Trimurti – Brahma’s Pallava’s victory over the Chalukyas religious items, and Banashankari’s swan, Vishnu’s Garuda and Shiva’s of Vatapi in 642 CE. legendary betel leaves, the sweetest Nandi are also seen. Interestingly, in the country, vouch locals! the right earlobe jewellery and hair SHOPPING decoration represent Shiva, but the WHERE TO EAT other side depicts Vishnu. Ancient Arts Emporium (Tel: 08357- 221704) at Badami Court stocks In Badami, Karwar Restaurant at Pallava Inscriptions souvenirs. Ilkal (36 km from Aihole) Badami Court serves a wide variety Badami is noted for two early is famous for its traditional of Indian and International cuisine. inscriptions dating events in history handloom, art silk and silk saris; buy In town, Hotel Rajsangam (New)

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anurag mallick dishes out pure veg fare. In Aihole, on the house. Mookambika Deluxe eat at Hotel Chalukya or KSTDC (Tel: 220067, 220997; Tariff: `1,250- Hotel Mayura Yatri Nivas. 1,950) on Station Road has rooms with TV and Internet in the lobby. WHERE TO stay The KSTDC guest house, Hotel Mayura Chalukya (Tel: 220046; The choice of hotels is limited for Cell: 08970650024; Tariff: `1,000- the discerning tourist. 2,750) is fairly decent and has 26 Clarks Inn (Tel: 08357-220150 rooms, a restaurant, a beer bar and Cell 09717170573, 09650500634; expansive gardens. Hotel Anand Tariff: Rs 3,500-5,500 +breakfast) at Deluxe (Tel:220074; Cell: Veerpulakeshi Circle, Badami Main 09448559892; Tariff: `700-2,200) Road, offers 40 rooms , The Bridge near the KSRTC Bus Stand, Station restaurant/coffee shop and, The Road has 50 rooms, a restaurant Illusion Bar. The Badami Court and bar. The Heritage Resort (Tel: (Tel: 220207, 220230-32; Tariff: 220250 Cell 09449852711; Tariff: 3,750-5,600 + breakfast) Tariff Rs `2,400-3,900 + breakfast) on Station 3,750-5,600 + breakfast) is a swanky Road has 8 rooms and 6 cottages, a option with AC rooms, Restaurant, veg restaurant and Internet in the swimming pool, travel desk, lobby only. Internet, room service and breakfast For more, see Badami Accommodation Here reigns goddess Banashankari, a form of Parvati, who destroyed a demon Naganath Temple erotic sculpture Listings on page 430 black stone idol depicts the powerful Naganath Temple (10 km) AROUNDs eight-armed goddess seated on a A short drive east of Badami off the snarling lion and trampling a hapless Banashankari-Mahakuta road lies Banashankari (4 km) demon. Coconut groves line Harida Naganathankolla with the Naganath A short drive northwest of Badami Tirtha, the sacred pond in front of Temple secretively tucked away in a leads to Cholachigud in the the temple, enclosed on three sides pretty little forest clearing. One of Tilakaaranya forest where the idol of by stone mantapas with inner the early Chalukyan temples, the a fierce black goddess astride a lion colonnades. A beautifully carved ancient Shiva shrine is flanked by tramples a demon underfoot. She is Deepa Sthambha (pillar of lamps) figures of Bhairava and Chamunda goddess Banashankari or Shakambari, rests on carved elephants, facing the and a massive Nandi bedecked with a form of Parvati who was the kuladevi temple and tank. One could climb garlands and bells guarding the (family deity) of the Chalukyas of inside the pillar to the top for a great entrance. All the windows are Kalyan. According to the Skanda view. The annual jatre or temple remarkable for their exquisite, Purana, the goddess destroyed a festival in January is called banada- intricate lattice work while the demon called Durgamasura at this hunnime, celebrated with elaborate gorgeous carvings on the pillars spot and stood to protect the ‘vana’ pujas, village fair, car festival, street depict Mithuna couples and ancient or ‘bana’ (forest) around. Originally plays, circus and stalls. An ancient fashion trends — women sporting built by the late Chalukyas, the Parvati Temple is located nearby. various hairstyles, calf-length skirts, present Dravidian style temple Further down the road, artisans sell pant-like garments and quirkily belongs to the 17th century. The intricate woodcarvings. mismatched earrings! anurag mallick

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Mahakuta (16 km) donations of gold, a silver umbrella An ancient Banyan tree with gnarled and land grants made to the temple roots looms over a temple complex by Chalukyan king Vinayaditya’s with a tank enclosed by the hills. mistress Vinapoti and Chalukyan Mahakuta was the abode of sage ruler Mangalesha, dating 690 AD. Agastya and believed to be the site Inside the large walled courtyard are where he annihilated Vatapi and two Shiva temples on either side of a Ilvala; transforming the slain demon spring-fed tank. brothers into two hillocks which still stand. Hailed as Dakshina Kashi, Vishnu Pushkarni Mahakuta was once a great pilgrim The sacred tank lies between the two centre for Shaivas and Saktas, main temples. Water flows into it worshippers of the Shakti cult. The continuously from a natural 7th century Chalukyan temple mountain spring. In the middle of complex is a confluence of north the tank is a small pavilion with and south Indian styles of Panchalinga-Mukha sculpture bearing architecture. A stone pillar a five-faced aspect of Shiva. The commemorates a Chalukyan victory stepped tank has a beautiful with inscriptions praising Mahakuta. waterspout shaped like a cow’s face Other epigraphical evidence record besides other sculptures. There’s an underwater shrine with a linga in Mahakuteshwara Temple one corner of the tank; one has to The Pattadakal temple complex is a UNESCO World Heritage site duck under the water surface to access it. a small stone pedestal in the outer Chalukyan city and served as a royal courtyard. The jali work or windows ceremonial centre where kings were Mahakuteshwara Temple with exquisite trelliswork exhibit the crowned. Located at a sacred spot The older of the two temples, it is Chalukyan love for ornate windows. where the river Malaprabha became dedicated to Shiva and built in uttaravahini or took a northward Dravidian style, surrounded by Mallikarjuna Temple turn, the town was also known as smaller shrines. The sanctum displays Located on the other side of the Kisuvolal or Raktapura ‘red town’ delicate scrollwork, a statue of tank, the temple has a similar dome- after the red sandstone used to build Ardhanarishvara and scenes from like tower and tiers with miniature the temples. UNESCO declared the epics. Its outer walls are shrines. There are rich carvings at the Pattadakal a World Heritage Site as it embellished with sculptures of the entrance and ceiling of the columned has fine examples of Nagara early Chalukyan era, including mantap inside depicting Hindu (northern), Dravida (southern) and images of Varaha rescuing Bhudevi, deities and amorous mithuna couples. Vesara, a fusion of both styles of Vishnu motif of Venugopala and Inside the enclosure, are various architecture in the same temple other deities. There’s an unusual smaller shrines, with detailed wall complex, the only one of its kind in image of Ganesha holding his broken carvings of Shiva with Parvati. India. Most of the temples are from tusk as a pen while writing the 7th and 8th centuries and located in Mahabharata. Several naga stone Pattadakal (24 km) a riverside complex set amidst tablets are scattered around. A smaller Pattada-kallu literally ‘coronation landscaped gardens. Each of its 10 linga with five faces of Shiva sits on stone’ was the second most important major temples (nine dedicated to anurag mallick

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Shiva and one Jain shrine) display Jambulingeshwara Temple interesting architectural features, Built in north Indian style with making Pattadakal an important site characteristic curvilinear shikhara, to study the development of temple the sukanasi or ‘parrot beak’ like architecture in south India. projection over the entrance of the sanctum sanctorum depicts Shiva in Kada Siddheshwara Temple his tandava pose with Parvati and Inside the temple complex the small, Nandi by his side. partly damaged early 8th century shrine, has a fine sculpture of Shiva Galaganatha Temple holding a serpent and trident in his East of the Jambulinga temple, the raised arms with Parvati standing shrine is in ruins but the southern right beside him. The outer walls of side has a sculpture of Shiva wearing this sanctum sanctorum depict Lord a garland of skulls killing the demon Ardhanarishvara on the northern Andhakasura. The tower is in the wall, Harihara on the west and northern Rekhanagara style and Lakulisha to the south. The shikhara animal fables from the Panchatantra (spire) is of an intricate northern are depicted in the basement of the Rekhanagara style. eastern moulding.

The Sangameshwara Temple attracts devotees from far and wide Lajja Gauri of life and creative power of the receptive. The human form and the intercourse/ Chandrashekhara Temple Sangameshwara Temple A strange stillness fills the air at birth pose are a metaphor for creation. South of Galaganatha is a squat Across the lawns, past the older and Siddannakolla, 7km from Aihole. A faint Lajja Gauri suggests life, creativity and shrine without a tower with simpler temples, are the more gravel path leads to the ancient abundance; her sacred images are found dwarapalas (doorkeepers) guarding complex south Indian vimana Sangameshwara temple in a valley. near springs, waterfalls and sources of the entrance to the sanctum that temples with their stepped pyramidal Obscured by trees with only the gurgling running water, symbols of life-giving houses a Shiva linga with Nandi on a formation. The oldest temple in the sound of a waterfall to guide one to the sustenance. Sometimes they are nestled platform facing the temple. complex, the Sangameshwara shrine sacred site, the mystique of the divine in sacred groves to remind people that was built during the reign of King figure squatting under the crevasse of a trees are vaults of water. She is carved Kashi Vishwanatha Temple Vijayaditya Satyashraya (697–733 huge rock, is palpable. She is Lajja on kumbhas (clay pots), as an assurance Located west of the complex, this is CE) and is thus also known as Gauri, a mysterious, lotus-headed of fullness. For centuries now, streams of the last of the north Indian style Vijayeshvara temple. The patron’s Goddess, always portrayed with legs childless women have worshipped Lajja temples. Also known as death in 734 CE left the temple splayed and raised in a primal manner Gauri — offering stone cradles to fulfill Kashivishveshwara temple, the unfinished, which was completed in suggesting either birthing or sexual their wish. Most often these sacred sites sculptures on the wall depict various later centuries. Above the eaves are receptivity. The soles of her feet are are out-of-bounds for men during pujas forms of Shiva. The pillars inside friezes of ganas (dwarves) with turned upward, her arms bent upwards all year round. Close to the lovely have intricate friezes based on the expressions of struggling to hold the and each hand holds a lotus. The Rig waterfall lies a low-roofed meditation Shiva Purana, Bhagavat Purana and temple aloft. Veda mentions the primordial female chamber and also a shrine of Lord Shiva the Ramayana, chiefly Ravana lifting divinity as Adishakti or Mother Goddess. with the idols of the sapta-matrikes Mount Kailasha and Virupaksha Temple She is the essential female, divine source (seven goddesses). Kalyanasundaramurti, the marriage The Virupaksha and Mallikarjuna of Shiva and Parvati. temples commemorate the

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anurag mallick Chalukyan victory over the Pallavas facing the temple housing a massive of Kanchi and were erected by two Nandi. The deep-green stone bull sister-queens. The biggest and most figure covered in a red floral cape ornate temple in the complex, the shows early use of colour. A columned Virupaksha temple was built by hall leads to the inner sanctum, Queen Lokamahadevi and was also which houses a Shiva linga that is called Lokeshwara. The grand worshipped even today. structure is the only complete temple to be built in the 8th century and Mallikarjuna Temple allegedly inspired by Kailasanatha The temple built by temple at Kanchipuram and in turn, Trailokyamahadevi, the queen of inspired the Krishna temple at Ellora. Vikramaditya II was originally called Images of Lingodbhavamurti, Trailokeswara Temple. Similar in plan Nataraja, Ravananugraha and to Virupaksha but smaller, it has Ugranarasimha are excellent. Don’t sculptures of Mahishasuramardini miss the frieze that depicts a bull and and Ugranarasimha. The ceiling has an elephant in the same sculpture. panels of Gajalakshmi and Nataraja The temple has a huge gateway, with Parvati while the pillars depict several inscriptions and a pavilion the life of Krishna. The friezes show amorous couples, everyday scenes in Aihole architecture ancient times and a woman with an Durga Temple in Aihole, the first commercial capital of the Chalukyas 8th century musical instrument. pillars in the mandapa and a Jina Vijayapura when many monuments Papanatha Temple statue in the northern eave. were used for residences and storage. Situated ½ km south of Mallikarjuna Excavations have revealed an older Legend has it that after avenging the temple away from the cluster of brick shrine under the present one. death of his father, Sage Jamdagni eight shrines, the grand temple is and killing kshatriyas (warriors), Lord known for its mixture of Dravida Aihole (34 km) Parasurama washed his bloodied and Nagara architectural styles. It Located on the banks of the battle-axe in the Malaprabha river, has an elaborately carved 16-pillared Malaprabha river about 10km from which turned red with blood. The main hall with an impressive image Pattadakal, Aihole was the first village ladies who had come to fill of Nataraja in the centre of the commercial capital of the Badami water and wash clothes at the river, ceiling with scenes from the Chalukyas between 6th and 8th shrieked ‘Ai hole’, ai (exclamation of Ramayana and Mahabharata. centuries. Also called Aivalli, terror), hole (river); hence the name. Ayyavole, Arya-Hole and Aryapura, it A natural axe-shaped rock on the Jain Temple is considered to be the birthplace of river, north of the village bears Locally known as Jain Narayan Dravidian temple architecture. It footprints, adding credence to tale. Temple, the 9th century shrine was became a stronghold of the The region’s red earth is also ascribed built by Krishna II of the Rashtrakutas. Rashtrakutas in 9th and 10th to this legend. There are over 120 Styled on Kailasanatha temple of centuries and the late Chalukyas of Chalukyan stone and cave temples Kanchipuram, it has two beautifully Kalyani in 11th-12th century. After spread across the rocky outcrops and chiselled stone elephants at the the fall of Hampi, the area came fields. Some temple enclosures are in entrance, lathe-turned sandstone under the Adil Shahi dynasty of the centre of the village, fenced off anurag mallick

374 Karnataka Karnataka 375 north Karnataka Badami by the ASI with fine specimens of the fort’. Set on a high plinth, the Chalukyan sculpture on display at temple’s elaborate friezes depict Aihole’s museum. It also has a handy gandharvas and celestial beings guide Glorious Aihole with maps and besides episodes from the Ramayana. info. Of most importance here are 16 The piece de resistance is a niche free-standing structures and 4 rock with the ferocious multi-armed figure cut shrines with Hindu, Jain and of Mahishasuramardini slaying the Buddhist temples and monasteries. buffalo demon and unusual depictions of the boar-headed Durga Temple incarnation of Vishnu and goddess Aihole’s best known and most Lakshmi. Filling the niches are impressive monument, the comical pot-bellied ganas or dwarves horseshoe-shaped Durga temple in sharp contrast to the larger awe- seems more like a Buddhist chaitya at inspiring deities. Ajanta Caves. The semi-circular apse and gallery wrapping around the Suryanarayana Temple sanctum are unusual. The name is a Next to Durga temple is the shrine of misnomer and derived from Suryanarayana with a pyramidal ‘durgagudi’ meaning ‘temple within shikhara. The sanctum has a statue of the sun god on a chariot with his Statue of sacred bull Nandi in Aihole companions Usha (dawn) and Gaudargudi Temple, one of the earliest Hindu temples to have a pradakshin patha Sandhya (dusk) and seven small horses carved at the bottom. is Gaudargudi (also Gaudergudi). It is The outdoor display includes among the earliest temples where excavated statues, artwork, virakallu Lad Khan Temple architects included pradakshina patha (hero stones) and demolished One of the earliest temples with (circumambulatory path) in Hindu temple parts while an indoor beautiful latticed windows, the temple design. The sanctum is empty collection exhibits better preserved temple dates back to 450 AD. but has a Gajalakshmi on its lintel statues of various divinities. Don’t Originally a royal assembly and with an inscription dedicating the miss the life size depiction of Lajja marriage hall, it was used as a temple to Gauri, an aspect of goddess Gauri in birthing position with a residence by Adil Shahi commander Parvati. It is possible over time lotus head. Lad Khan. The hall has Shiva Gauriragudi (Gauri’s temple) got accompanied by Nandi and the phonetically corrupted to Ravanaphadi Cave porch projects outward with carvings Gaudargudi. Next to it is a large 10th Northwest of the village and less of loving couples on its ornate pillars. century stepwell with carved than a kilometre uphill, lies one of An upper sanctum has images of sculptures on the walls en route to Aihole’s oldest rock-cut cave temples. Vishnu and Surya, the sun god, Chakragudi; its 7th century Nagara- The court hall with two carved pillars carved on its walls and offers a good style tower is noteworthy. in front is flanked by life-size view of the village. sculptures of guardians. Dating to Aihole Museum and Art Gallery 6th century the sandstone rock cut Gaudargudi The small museum next to Durga cave has remarkable sculpted figures Standing next to Lad Khan but much temple has a wealth of sculptures of Shiva as Ardhanarishvara, Harihara older and more open from the sides salvaged from Aihole and around. and a spirited dancing figure of a

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village below. The name Meguti is a phonetic corruption of Melgudi or ‘upper temple’. It is notable for the inscription by poet Ravikirti on a slab in the outer wall dating back to 634, mentioning the royal patronage to the temple by Pulakeshin II.

Other Temple Complexes Scattered all over Aihole and the riverside of the Malaprabha, are various significant temple complexes. West of the Durga temple, near the Meguti Jain Temple ticket office at the entrance is the Ambigergudi temple complex, a temple tower displaying square troika of shrines archaeologically mouldings. Jyotirlinga temple noted for the 1st-3rd century red- complex with sixteen Shiva shrines ware bowls and ruins of an older has lovely Nandi mantapas and a brick temple, revealed in excavations. large stepwell. Ramalinga/ The Kuntigudi complex, a quartet Ramalingeshvara temple complex Nandi Mandapa at the Mallikarjuna Temple complex of temples in the middle of a market is located on the banks of the street crammed between houses has Malaprabha river, 2.5 km south of glorious Nataraja holding aloft a century) temple. It is notable for its sculptures with unusual perspectives. Durga temple. Other shrines include sinuous serpent. intricate pillar carvings in the portico The Maddin temple group in the the popular Huchimalli temple and inside the shrine, besides artwork heart of town uses green imported with a larger than life statue of Hucchappayya Matha on the inner walls and ceiling. Look stone for its fine lathe-turned pillars, Vishnu seated atop Adisesha, the Separate from other temple clusters, out for Narasimha, Nataraja, Shaiva not seen anywhere else in Aihole. Chikkigudi group, Tarabasappa about 1km south of the Durga temple dvarapalas, Garuda besides scenes of Triyambakeshvara temple group in temple, Umamaheshwari temple complex on the far side of Aihole daily life depicting dancers, musicians the village, including the Rachigudi and a two-storey Buddhist temple on village are two Hindu monuments – and devotees. In a strange penchant and Desiyar temples, are from Meguti Hill. a large Shiva temple in the front and for horse-headed women, to be 10th-11th centuries, bridging the a monastery no longer in use. The found here are panels depicting Rashtrakuta and Late Chalukya Where to Stay 7th century temple displays amorous bearded older men being embraced periods. Mallikarjuna temple The Hotel Mayura Yatri Nivas mithuna couples on the columns and on the eastern porch column. complex of five Hindu shrines (Cell: 09591164103; Tariff: `1,200- mandapa walls including outré ones explores the square form with 1,500) has 24 rooms, a restaurant, like a horse-headed woman seeking Jain Meguti Temple portico, sabha mandap, sanctum and Internet and room service. ■ the attention of a shocked man! A climb uphill southeast of Aihole past a two-storied Buddhist temple Hucchappayya Gudi leads to one of its oldest shrines. The About a few hundred meters temple is dedicated to Lord Mahavira #Awesomekarnataka southwest of Huchappayya matha, and a stone staircase connects the in the fields towards the river is this lower sanctum to the upper level, early Chalukya period (6th-7th which overlooks Aihole Fort and the

378 Karnataka Karnataka 379 north Karnataka Hubballi-DHARWAD

warrior princess who fought the their growth potential, the cities British, the city is also famous for its have been selected under the Smart Sufi shrines. However, today Hubballi City Project and also the Solar City, has established itself as an important Green City master plans. Hubballi- industrial and commercial centre of Dharwad are also popular textile Karnataka state. hubs famous for handlooms and Dharwad served as the gateway fostering the development of unique between Malenadu (Western Ghats) handicraft traditions of the region - and Bayaluseeme (the plains). Its the 1000-year-old weaving tradition ancient Sanskrit name Dwarawata of Ilkal in Bagalkot district which (from dwara or doorway and wata/ spawned the famous Ilkal saris in wada or town) gave credence to its cotton and silk and the unusual strategic importance as the entrance geometric kasuti embroidery of to the hills. For centuries, Dharwad, Dharwad. Dharwad is also famous located about 800m above sea level for a delicious sweet item, the was the resting place for travellers brown-toned sugar-dusted Dharwad

Photographs by anurag mallick and a place that offered a pleasant peda, which has earned a GI tag. The renowned Bhavanishankar Temple in Hubballi climate. It is believed that around the 14th century, Dhar Rao, an THINGS TO SEE AND DO official of the Vijayanagara kings built the fort in the heart of Dharwad Hubballi Hubballi-DHARWAD town in 1403. Adilshah, the Sultan Twin Cities of Vijayapura, who went on to build Bhavanishankar Temple a fort in the area known as Manna Set in the old Hubballi area of the ■ anurag mallick and Purballi, was home to an ancient Killa, later called Nazratabad, city, the ancient temple constructed PRIYA GANAPATHY Bhavanishankar temple and an old captured it in 1573. Today an Jain basadi. The British established a educational hub, it was home to he twin cities of Hubballi- factory here during Adilshahi rule, several stalwarts from the field of Dharwad are often uttered in which was looted by Shivaji in 1673. literature and music – from Gangubai Tthe same breath though they The Mughals conquered old Hubli Hangal, Mallikarjun Mansur to Da lie 17km apart. Historically, the and handed the administration to Ra Bendre, thus earning the tag ‘The region came under the rule of several the Nawab of Savanur who built an Cultural Capital of Karnataka’. fast facts dynasties including the Chalukyas, extension called Majidpura. But the Several notable educational When to go October to February Rashtrakutas, Vijayanagara, Adilshahi, establishment of new Hubli in institutions like IIT, University of Tourist offices Mysuru kingdom, the Marathas and Durgadabail (Fort Maidan) is Agricultural Sciences, Karnataka ● Office of the Assistant Director finally the British. Hubballi, literally attributed to Basappa Shettar, an University, Indian Institute of Department of Tourism hu-balli (flower creeper) known as enterprising trader. Hubballi has a Information Technology in Dharwad Near Rangayana, Behind Hotel Hubli till recently, was a commercial famous flower market and a locality and KIMS, Karnataka State Law Mandara, College Road, centre famous for trade in cotton, called Gardenpeth, hinting at its University, KLE Technology Dharwad saltpetre and iron in the past. Under enduring connection with flowers. University in Hubballi besides the Tel: 0836-2744522 the Vijayanagara rayas, old Hubli, With the historic landmark of Kittur mushrooming IT companies have Cell: 08497859699 (DTC) which also went by other names like Rani Chennamma Circle in the heart put the twin cities at the forefront STD code 0836 Rayara Hubli, Eleya Purvadahalli and of town honouring the legendary of education and business. Given

380 Karnataka Karnataka 381 north Karnataka Hubballi-DHARWAD in Nagara style was allegedly built by Nrupatunga Hill the renowned temple architect of A small hillock offering a view of yore, Jakanachari. Dedicated to Lord Hubballi city, locals love to spend a Shiva and Parvati, the small temple few relaxing moments or bring bears remarkable floral motifs and excited children to the kids park Puranic carvings on its walls and here. Pack a snack as shops and sculptures of Lord Shiva, Ganapathi, eateries are scarce. Parking is at the Narasimha, Brahma and Parvati. base and it’s a 1km walk to the hilltop. Occasionally, troupes from Aasar Shariff Dargah Kala Kendra perform local songs and Constructed by Mohammed Adil dances on the weekends. Shah in 1646, the Aasar Shariff dargah enshrines two strands of hair Syed Fateh Shah Vali from the beard of Prophet This shrine of a Sufi saint draws Mohammed, in a casket. The relics Hindus and Muslim devotees alike. are displayed to the public during In 1780, Tipu Sultan visited the the annual 2-day urs (fair) during Id, dargah after he won the campaign the birth anniversary of the prophet, against the Nawab of Savanur. The which draws thousands of pilgrims tomb is marked by a large entrance Both motorcycles and elephants find their space on Hubballi’s streets to the shrine. gate. Sadly, the natural tank known as Lal Talab in its precincts doesn’t Siddharoodha Mutt Indira Gandhi Glass House The gate to a Sufi saint’s shrine exist today. A prominent religious centre for Inaugurated by former PM Indira Advaita philosophy, this was where Gandhi, the large impressive Gangubai Hangal Musical Museum Gurunatha Roodha Swamiji, a glasshouse in a garden setting (similar Hindustani classical music legend Dr reformer saint lived and preached. to the one in Lalbagh, Bengaluru) is Gangubai Hangal was born in Devotees throng the sprawling a popular location near the old bus Dharwad but lived in a simple home complex, meditate in the prayer hall stand. Though it has seen better days called Ganga Lahiri, in Deshpande and visit his Samadhi. It is believed when its toy train and musical Nagar in Hubballi. For years, till the that one’s wishes are granted by fountains were functional and during day she passed away, her home praying at the peaceful sacred place. flower shows, today it is a wooded remained a major landmark for The car festival during Mahashivaratri place scattered with sculptures and frequent visitors. Today a portion of is celebrated with much pomp here. statues, ideal for a walk or to relax the legendary home has been Timings 6am-6pm. with a cup of tea or coffee at the converted into a museum by her kiosk. Entry fee `10. grandson to showcase the richness of Moorusavira Mutt Indian classical music. Displaying Another famous religious centre Unkal Lake her awards, citations, gramophone founded in the 12th century that A cool scenic sunset spot that has recordings, souvenirs, photos and marks the place where Sri become a local favourite, thanks to rare centuries old musical instruments Channabasavanna, a revered boating facilities and decent collected from all over, the place is a Lingayat saint halted with 3000 landscaping. Located 3km from town treasure trove and a fitting tribute to (literally ‘mooru savira’ in Kannada) on the way to Dharwad, the 110-year- India’s musical maestros and other shivasharanas (saints) enroute old lake is the main source of water continues to be a big draw. to the holy place of Ulavi. for Hubballi. Entry fee `10.

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Chandramouleshwara Temple DHARWAD Narrow lanes lead to the little-known dilapidated ancient temple belonging Bendre Bhavan to the Western Chalukyan or later One of the most significant icons of called the Chalukyan era, located Dharwad’s literary heritage and the near the famous Unkal Lake. Though Navodaya or renaissance movement the 900-year-old temple lacks a in Kannada, is poet laureate shikhara, its sculptures and pillars are Dattatreya Ramachandra Bendre, still considered noteworthy. The more popular as Da Ra Bendre. The ancient temple has two lingas, one Jnanpith awardee is synonymous of which is a chaturmukha (four- with Dharwad and his works celebrate faced) linga besides two Nandi statues the beauty, simplicity and spirit of at the entrance. his beloved hometown. His lucid poems and plays were often penned in the calm surroundings of Sadhanakeri, Attikola, Mugad and Kelgeri and continue to inspire generations of people. Until his Dharwad Bendre Bhavan, dedicated to Kannada literateur DR Bendre death in 1981, Bendre lived in his getting there lovely old ochre-hued home ‘Shri in the khyal style was born in Mansur, Air Hubballi Airport is connected to Matha’ at Sadhanakeri. In the garden Gangubai Hangal Birthplace & 5km from Dharwad. He received all Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Mumbai, Jindal is a small memorial with a bust of Memorial Musical Museum three national Padma awards and Vidyanagar and Tirupati by SpiceJet Bendre and the poems he had written ‘Gangothri’, the erstwhile home of the Sangeet Natak Akademi and Star Air for his wife. Next door is Bendre Dr Gangubai Hangal, the doyenne of Fellowship for his highly valuable Rail Hubballi Railway Station is Bhavan, a museum with a library Hindustani classical music was contribution to music. ‘Mrutyunjaya’, connected to Bengaluru, Mumbai, Goa, showcasing numerous portraits and converted into a museum showcasing his residence in Dharwad has been Puducherry, Howrah etc by Rani photographs of him and extracts of her life and legacy and contribution converted into a unique museum Chennamma Express, Sharavati his timeless poetry. to music. She won several honours under the Dr. Mallikarjun Mansur Express, Vishwamanava Express, and prestigious national awards National Memorial Trust. This Trust Haripriya Express, Hubli-Londa-Hazrat Sadhanakeri Park including the Padma Bhushan and also organises an annual National Nizamuddin-Goa Link Express etc. Jan Set a few metres from Da Ra Bendre’s Padma Vibhushan. With Concert on September 12-13th with Shatabdi trains ply between Hubballi Memorial is a beautiful lakeside park photographs, info panels and musical performances at the museum and Bengaluru daily. that has remained one of Dharwad’s memorabilia and musical instruments to mark his death anniversary and Road Hubballi is connected to famous landmarks to this date. One in different rooms, the humble home also presents three awards on Bengaluru (NH48) (410 km/7 hrs). Taxi of the seven surviving lakes in the in Shukravaradapete in Dharwad December 31st to commemorate his `10-15/km Bus KSRTC’s Rajahamsa city, the lush park is a haunt for attracts several tourists who come to birth anniversary. Executive (`481-581), Airavat Club walkers, writers and families seeking pay homage to one of India’s finest Class `848, Airavat Gold Class (`743- some moments of inspiration or musical gems, who performed well Basel Mission Church 858), Non Ac Sleeper `730, AC Sleeper relaxation. The exciting water show into her nineties. Set on Station Road and established `913. Plans are afoot for a bus rapid- with laser lights is a big attraction, by the Basel Missionary Society in transit system to improve connectivity especially for children, besides the Mallikarjun Mansur Memorial 1844 is the oldest church of Dharwad. between Hubballi-Dharwad. numerous sculptures and art Mallikarjun Mansur, the famous Also called the Hebich Memorial installations in the park. Indian classical singer who excelled Church, the lovely white heritage

384 Karnataka Karnataka 385 north Karnataka Hubballi-DHARWAD building is simple and elegant with Gothic arched windows and beautiful stained glass. Where to Eat

Dharwad Adventure Base Eat a traditional veg meal of jolada Just 7km from town, the new water roti, hesarukalu palya (green gram theme park is a 10 min drive from curry), yenne badnekayi (brinjal curry) Dharwad that provides a dash of fun and pudis (powders) at prominent and adrenalin for visitors. Set in a Lingayat eateries like Basappa 27-acre mango orchard, the activity Khanavali in Dharwad. For non-veg centre is partially complete, and ideal fare, try Sauji cuisine at Hotel Milan for a day trip dedicated to dry and Savaji at Jubilee Circle; for biryani its wet games, cable cycling, zip lining, Niyaz Restaurant on PB Road. Don’t fun rides etc. with food and miss Dharwad’s signature sweet— refreshments thrown in. Dharwad Peda, available at Thakur u Tickets Weekdays/Weekends Adult Pedha. In Hubballi, vegetarians will `650/700, Child `500/550 Timings love Basaveshwara Khanavali; for 11am-6pm Cell 09341841567, Jain thalis its The Sigdi and Rasoi. 08792846238 Plunge into Durgada Bail, the local Interiors of a traditional Dharwad home, with wooden pillars W dharwadadventurebase.com ‘eat street’. Sauji cuisine 52 rooms, poolside lawn, free wi-fi, delectable seafood, North Indian, Where to stay gym, steam and sauna, a multi- Mughlai and local dishes are aplenty cuisine restaurant, a bar, and here. The in-house Spa offers relaxing Being a bustling hub of commerce patisserie serving chocolates, cakes Ayurvedic and Western therapies. and education, there are numerous and pastries. Cotton County Resort hotels and lodges in Hubballi- (Tel: 2335799/899; Cell: DHARWAD Dharwad, easily accessible from the 09243264099; Tariff: `2,000-4,500 In Dharwad Hotel Dwarawata – airport and railway station. +breakfast; TE) opposite Hubballi The Door Town Hotel (Tel:0836- Kyriad Prestige (Tel: 0836- Airport and managed by Verda, is a 2790999 Cell: 09108986362; Tariff: 6616661; Cell: 08884455627; Tariff: pleasant place filled with greenery `3,500-5,500) is a decent option with `3,500-6,000 + breakfast; TE) near and offers 45 comfortable executive, 41 rooms, a restaurant, bar and Nekar Bhawan, Opp KH Patil PU deluxe AC rooms and AC cottage coffee shop. Another option is Mayur College, Unkal Cross Hosur Service room with amenities like pool, free Aaditya Resort (Tel: 2461701; Cell: Road is managed by Citrus; this wi-fi and restaurant. The Ocean 07090422999; Tariff: `6,200-9,600 + elegant place offers 62 fresh clean Pearl Resort & Spa Tel: 2226600; breakfast; TE) with 48 rooms, a rooms; 3 F&B options including Cell: 08197666333; Tariff: `5,000- restaurant, bar, swimming pool, gym, multi-cuisine restaurant Tangelo, 7,499; TE ) on the Hubballi-Dharwad and travel desk. gym, free wi-fi and temperature- Highway, Rayapur, is a plush resort controlled rooftop infinity pool. with 28 rooms and 2 cottages with AROUNDs Clark’s Inn Airport Hotel (Tel: private balconies presenting pool or 2232675; Cell: 09902276113; Tariff garden views. Shraman Veg restaurant Agadi Thota (25km) `5,000-7,500 + breakfast; TE) on offers Marwari thalis, Coral multi- Located 25km from Hubballi city Gokul Road is a decent option with cuisine restaurant serves fresh and and 30km from Haveri, Agadi Thota

386 Karnataka Karnataka 387 north Karnataka Hubballi-DHARWAD

and an ancient Kalasiddheshwara kings and Deccan Sultanate vying for Temple with beautiful painted control. Today the cantonment city carvings, besides old Chalukyan still has several vestiges of its glorious shrines dedicated to Puradeshwara past. The ancient Belgaum Fort and Ankeshwara. Nearly 5km from complex is surrounded by a moat town, beyond the 10th century fort and has centuries old mosques. The of Parashgad lies Yallammagudda hill 12th century Jain temple at with the temple of goddess Yellamma Kamalabasti in the fort area with its or Renuka Devi, once associated with lotus like roof dedicated to Neminatha the ancient practice of devadasis. is noteworthy. At the city centre are the Mahadev temple and Attiveri Bird Sanctuary (43km) Kapileshwara temples dedicated to A pristine sanctuary about 15km Lord Shiva. The pink stone from Mundgod, is a birdwatcher’s architecture of St. Mary’s Church haven located around the Attiveri with its gothic arches and stained Reservoir. Presenting riverine and glass windows is another remarkable deciduous forests, the sanctuary landmark. Belgaum is famous for a covers 22.3 sq km and is a habitat for milk-based sweet similar to khova nearly 79 species of aquatic birds like called Belgaum kunda (best at Camp Great and Little egrets, Black-headed Purohit) and maande or mandige, a A statue of Kittur Rani Chenamma, who fought valiantly against the British Ibis, Grey Francolin, Eurasian crepe-like sweet available at spoonbill and other migratory species Krishnamurthi Saralaya at Konwal is a rustic themed daytrip venue for the British East India Company, the arriving from distant lands each year. Gali. Try the Malai Bun and Irani people of all ages. Set in a farmhouse, British Commissioner St John Ideal time to visit is Nov-March; Chai at Luna Tea Bar and Apollo Tea the place offers great traditional Thackeray was killed in 1824. An avoid heavy monsoon months May- Bar, besides biryani at Niyaaz Hotel. North Karnataka food (breakfast, obelisk was constructed to his August Timings 6am-6pm. For a getaway from Belgaum, head to lunch and evening snacks like girmit memory in the British cemetery in the picturesque horseshoe-shaped bhaji) with activities like camel, Dharwad. Later, Kittur Fort was Belagavi/Belgaum (95km) Gokak Falls on the Ghataprabha tonga and bullock cart rides, boating, stormed and Queen Chennamma Historic Belgaum or Belagavi as it is River. A 60km drive from Belagavi games, pottery etc. was imprisoned in Bailhongal Jail called today dates back to the 12th town, the falls plummet 52m (172ft) Entry fee Weekdays/Weekends `450/ where she died. century AD. Founded by the Ratta down a sandstone gorge and the `550, includes food and games dynasty, it was referred as Venugrama sight is spectacular after the rains, Timings 10.30am-6.00pm; Cell Saundatti (38km) or Venupura (city of bamboo) in especially Sep-March. Ancient 08880096000 W agadithota.com Once Sungandavarti, Savadavarti early texts. Belgaum came under the Chalukyan monuments line the and Savadatti, Saundatti served as Yadavas and had a tumultuous banks of the gorge. Gokak is known Kittur (32km) the capital of the Ratta dynasty, an history with the Khiljis, Vijayanagara for its Gokak kardantu, a rich chewy A historical principality founded in offshoot of the Rashtrakutas, between 1585, Kittur is associated with valiant 875-1230 until they moved their queen Rani Chennamma (1778- capital to Belgaum. Being great #Awesomekarnataka 1829) who fought the British. On the patrons of Jainism, the Rattas outskirts of town lie the remains of established several Jain basadis here. the queen’s palace within a fort. The historic town has an 18th During the armed rebellion against century fort with impressive bastions

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as Bijapur became the powerful can be found in museums across capital of the Adil Shahi dynasty that Eurpoe today. ruled in 16th-17th centuries until it Geographically, the district was conquered by the Mughals in occupies a barren plain, sloping the year 1686. eastward from a string of feudatory The contribution of the Adil Maratha states to the dominion of Shahi kings to the architecture, the Nizams. Situated on an open painting, language, literature and plain, Vijayapura had no natural music of Karnataka is significant. defense. Therefore its fort and the The synthesis of Hindu and Islamic gateways were built with extremely cultures created marvellous examples hard and strong materials. Ibrahim of South Indian Islamic architecture. Adil Shah I who succeeded his father The Adil Shahis were known for Ismail, fortified the city. Vijayapura tolerance towards Hindus and non- interference in their religious matters. They employed Hindus in high posts in accounts and

Photographs by anurag mallick administration, and maintained Gol Gumbaz, the mausoleum of king Mohammed Adil Shah records in Marathi! Vijayapura became a cosmopolitan city that fast facts attracted scholars, artists, musicians When to Go September to February is VIJAYAPURA and Sufi saints from Rome, Persia, the best time. Can be visited all year Iraq and Turkey. The mushaira round DOORWAY TO THE DECCAN (poetic symposium) was born in the Tourist offices Vijayapura court and later traveled ● Dept Of Tourism, Govt of Karnataka ■ anurag mallick and the ‘city of learning’. Oddly, the next north. The Dakhani language, a mix Deputy Director’s Office PRIYA GANAPATHY chapter in Bijapur’s story was scripted of Persian-Arabic, Gujarati, Marathi Block 1, Tourist Plaza, Indi Road, Opp in far-flung Turkey. After Murad II, and Kannada, developed into an Dr. BR Ambedkar Stadium, Vijayapura ong considered the doorway to the Ottoman Emperor died, there independent spoken and literary Tel: 08352-250359 the Deccan, Vijayapura’s skyline was a war of succession. Historians language. It prospered under the Cell: 09448149515 Lis dominated by sooty domes suggest that the crown prince Bahmani kings and was later known ● Tourist Information Officer and towering Islamic edifices under executed all other sons but Yusuf as Dakhan Urdu to distinguish it Vijayapura whose foundation lie the ruins of a Adil Shah was smuggled to Persia as from the north Indian Urdu. Under Cell: 08095658443 (TO) forgotten city. Legend has it that a slave and landed in the court of the Adil Shahis many literary works ● District Tourism Consultant Bijapur was once Vijayapura (and Bidar Sultanate. His bravery gained were published in Dakhani including Vijayapura recently reverted to its old name). the Sultan’s favor and he was Ibrahim Adil Shah II’s book of poems Cell: 07353269510 Referred to as ‘Vidyanagari’, appointed the Governor of Bijapur. and music, Kitab-e-Navras. Under ● KSTDC Tourist Office ‘Dakshina Varanasi’ or Benares of the With the breakup of the Bahmani the patronage of Ibrahim II the Hotel Mayura Adil Shahi South in ancient times, ‘The City of state in 1482, Yusuf Adil Shah Vijayapura school of painting too Station Road, Vijayapura Victory’ prospered under the Kalyani established an independent sultanate. reached its zenith. We are lucky that Cell: 08970650031 Chalukyas in 10th-11th centuries. He built the Citadel or Arkilla and Persian artists of the Adil Shahi W kstdc.co An inscription on the wall of Ibrahim the Faroukh Mahal. Being a man of court have left behind a wealth of STD code 08352 Rauza refers to the city as ‘Vidyapur’, culture, he invited poets and artisans, miniature paintings, some of which

390 Karnataka Karnataka 391 north Karnataka VIJAYAPURA has two forts — one encircling the graceful minarets and stately entire town and another fortified mosques, its many mahals (halls and citadel protecting the royal palace palaces), bavdis (tanks), gateways and enclosure. With the loot from the scattered ruins steeped in history. A sack of Hampi, Ali Adil Shah I two-day stay is advised to do justice launched ambitious building to the many intricate monuments in projects, constructing the Gagan the cityof Vijayapura. Mahal, his own tomb Ali Roza, a large well Chand Bawdi and the Gol Gumbaz Jami Masjid. With 50 mosques, 20 Dominating Vijayapura’s skyline, dargahs and as many palace Gol Gumbaz was built in 1626 by complexes Vijayapura occupies a Mohammed Adil Shah and styled on prominent place on the architectural a seven-storeyed mosque in Arabia. map of India and is often hailed as From its summit, a muezzin would the ‘Agra of South India’. It is also give the call for azaan (prayer), hence home to the largest known medieval it was known as ‘Bol’ Gumbaz. Over cannon in the world. the years, it got corrupted to Gol Gumbaz, because of the round dome. THINGS TO SEE AND DO On entering the compound, the Nagar Naubat Khana, a gateway like The majestic Gol Gumbaz Vijayapura or Bijapur captures the structure is seen; this was the perch imagination of every visitor with its from where the mighty nagaar hall set on a plinth, are the u Entry fee `25 (Indians), `300 (drums) would be sounded for the gravestones of the seventh sultan (foreigners) Timings 6am-5.30pm A side-eye view of the Gol Gumbaz naubat (welcome) of the Adil Shahi Mohammed Adil Shah, his wife, sultan on his approach to enter the daughter, grandson and favourite Jami Masjid Gol Gumbaz. courtesan, Rambha. Built by Ali Adil Shah I (1557-80) out Today it houses the office of the The Whispering Gallery is an of the spoils of the 1565 Talikote war Archaelogical Survey of India and acoustic and architectural wonder. against Vijayanagara, the magnificent the Archaeological Museum in the Not only is every sound audible, the mosque is regarded as the jewel of gatehouse has a collection of Chinese acoustics ensured that sentries posted Adil Shahi architecture. Designed for porcelain, paintings, armoury, at the archways could overhear the the increasing population of the city, miniatures and stone sculpture, slightest whisper. The echo of a loud it was set in a sprawling ground including carvings from Chalukyan clap can resound between seven to covering 1,16,300 sq ft with graceful temples. Built on a single rock in twelve times, depending on the arches, aisles, halls and a large onion 1626, the original site spread over 64 prevailing noise levels. Back in the dome. The main section to the west acres. The 210 ft high stone and day, it was a venue for musical and has nine huge arches with decorative masonry structure is made of black dance performances. Seven storeys motifs on their apexes in a semicircle, Vijayapura granite capped by a brick with 17 clunky medieval steps in resembling a flower bud. Despite its dome. With an internal diameter of each lead to a gallery outside that apparent perfection, this imposing 124 ft, it is the fourth largest dome in provides superb views of the city. mosque is incomplete as it lacks two the world and the second largest The mosque on the left was where minarets. Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb unsupported dome after St. Peter’s the Sultan spent time to offer his added a sprawling prayer hall divided Basilica in Rome. In the centre of the daily prayers. into 45 compartments to house over

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2,000 worshippers. What makes the rauza (literally ‘garden’), the masjid remarkable is its fine Islamic monument is noted for its striking calligraphy as verses of the Quran are symmetry, elaborately decorated beautifully inscribed in gold. A heavy walls, slender minarets and cornices. curtain hangs over the beautiful The mausoleum stands to the left mihrab, an arched niche 7 m high and the prayer hall to the right. and 6 m wide. These twin edifices each with a lofty u Entry Free Timings 8am-5.30pm tower are ornamented with four graceful minars. The carved panels Ibrahim Roza are decorated with crosses, lotuses, A palatial mosque and tomb complex wheels and calligraphic inscriptions, set in a square enclosure on a single reflecting the religious tolerance of slab of bedrock, Ibrahim Roza is said the Adil Shahi dynasty. Two stone to have been the inspiration behind chains, each carved from a single the Taj Mahal in Agra. Constructed rock hang from the sides of the by Persian architects under Ibrahim prayer hall. Every door, made of teak Adil Shah (1580-1627), it houses his wood and re-enforced with metal, is tomb and those of his family. unique. The arches in the hallway Approachable by a path laid out surrounding the inner perimeter of through a beautifully manicured the mausoleum are superbly crafted The Ibrahim Roza tomb complex, where Ibrahim Adil Shah II is buried while the façade has stunning Malik-e-Maidan cannon; hallways of the tomb artwork in stone, including a map to ten others at the various gateways. A The muzzle is shaped like a lion the basement, which lies under the curtained wall about 10 ft. high ran whose jaws are poised to devour an mausoleum. from bastion to bastion. The whole elephant. The cannon used 600 kg of u Entry fees Indians `25, Foreigners fort was surrounded by a deep moat gunpowder in one go and pellets `300 Timings 6am-5.30pm spanning 30-40ft in width. that weighed 50 kg each. About 10 gunners were required to set it off Ark Killa/Bijapur Fort Malik-e-Maidan Cannon and they had to jump into a tank of Vijayapura was the only one of the Straddling the fort walls on the Buruz water to avoid going deaf. It was splinter Bahmani kingdoms to have or Lion Tower bastion is Malik-e- used in the Talikota war of 1565, two forts. One citadel Ark Killa Maidan or Lord of the Plateau. when the splinter Bahmani states surrounded the palace buildings and Reputedly the largest medieval joined forces to defeat Ramraya. the other enclosed the city, remnants cannon in the world and the second Always cool to touch even under the of which can still be seen. Bijapur largest in India, it was built on the hot sun, the cannon emits a soft Fort was built by Adil Shah in 1503- orders of Burhan Nizam Shah I for tinkle when tapped gently! Locals 04 and has four main gates and his son-in-law Adil Shah. Fourteen perpetuate the myth that if one several secondary gates. The fort feet long and weighing 55 tonnes, touches the cannon and make a wish walls measured 11 km in length and the cannon was forged out of it will come true! were as wide as 6 m in some parts. Its gunmetal in Ahmednagar. It took u Entry Free Timings 8am-5.30pm height ranged from 30 to 50 ft and 400 bullocks, 10 elephants and 100 whole structure was strengthened people to drag it to its present Bara Kamaan with ninety-six massive bastions of location and part of the fort wall had Located northwest of the citadel, various designs. In addition there are to be torn down to accommodate it! Bara Kamaan was the most ambitious

394 Karnataka Karnataka 395 north Karnataka VIJAYAPURA project of Ali Adil Shah II. Envisioned platform with only two levels of as a 12-storeyed structure with 12 incomplete yet massive arches in arches on each level, Ali’s tomb dark basalt. Looking at its scale, one would have surpassed the Gol can only marvel at the architectural Gumbaz. However, it remains a audacity of the sultan. In the centre symbol of his unfulfilled dreams as of the elevated platform, Ali is laid to construction came to a halt with the rest beside his queens and eleven sultan’s death and the tomb was left other ladies of the Zenana. incomplete thanks to the indifference of his successors. Also known as Ali Jod Gumbaz Roza, the big roofless structure stands As the name suggests, the Jod on a raised 215 feet (66 m) square Gumbaz are twin domes built in 1687 on an elevation by Aurangazeb during the era of Ali Adil Shah II. They enshrine the tombs of two traitors Khan Mohammad and Khawas Khan, a father-son duo who helped the Mughal Emperor getting there Aurangzeb defeat Sikandar, the Air Nearest Airports: Hubballi young Adil Shahi ruler. It was also (200km/5hr) and Belgaum (220km/5hr). known as Abdul Razak Dargah. Bara Kamaan, an extremely ambitious tomb project that was left unfinished Air India, Indigo etc flights from both the u Entry Free Timings 8.00 airports connect Vijayapura to major am-5.30pm Khan, after whom it is named. The the 52 ft deep tank made it an ideal cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Hyderabad strategically located bastion affords resting spot in its time; today the etc. Taxi’s charge `8-10/km Asar Mahal good views over the city. water is dirty and full of garbage. Rail Vijayapura railway station, is well Earlier called Adalat Mahal, Asar connected to major cities like Mumbai, Mahal was built in 1646 by Sultan Anand Mahal Navraspur Secunderabad, Hyderabad, Solapur, Muhammad Shah as a hall of justice. West of Gagan Mahal, Ibrahim Adil Around 7km from town on Athani Varanasi, Raichur etc. Important trains There is a square tank in front and Shah II built this two-storeyed palace road, Navraspur was the cultural seat include LTT Hubli Exp, Solapur Express, the walls and ceilings of the gilded in 1589 as a performance space of the Adil Shahi dynasty. Musical HYB BJP PSGR etc. You can catch a hall are covered in paintings of exclusively for music and dance. The performances by artists of the Adil rickshaw/`10 pp or horse cart/ `70-100 landscapes and various designs. ornamental roof has fine stucco work Shahi period were held in the Sangeet to the downtown area 2km away Emperor Aurangzeb had these with an interesting open front Mahal and the tradition continues Road Vijayapura is connected to major whitewashed but were later restored. platform, accessed by two flights of even today. The Navraspur Festival cities by NH13. The 530km journey u Entry Free Timings 8.00 steps on either side. Formerly, a in August is a 4-day music and dance from Bengaluru takes 9-10hrs. Taxis am-5.30pm general assembly area, it is presently extravaganza. charge `8-10/km Bus Bengaluru to being used as government offices. Vijayapura overnight bus fares begin at Other Monuments `500 approx to 1200 from Majestic bus Haider Burj or Upari Burj Taj Bawadi The other historic structures of stand ; from Hubballi to Vijayapura fare This 80 ft high Upari Burj or ‘upper Built in 1620 by Ibrahim Adil Shah II Vijayapura include Sat Manzil (a is `210; from Belgaum its `220. Check watchtower’ was commissioned by in memory of his wife Taj Sultana, seven-storied palace), Mehtar Mahal out redbus.in Ibrahim Adil Shah II in 1584 and Taj Bawadi is a 223 ft square well. (a palace built by sweepers), Aras built by his military chief Haider Beautifully arched rooms overlooking Mahal (Ali II’s pleasure resort), Chini

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Mahal or Faroukh Mahal (lofty delicious shenga chutney powder and durbar hall built by Yusuf Adil Shah), sweet shenga holige and chikki. Jal Manzil (a water pavilion), Chota Asar (with fine stucco ornamentation), WHERE TO EAT Bukhari Masjid (built by Chand Bibi for a moulvi), Afzal Khan’s Cenotaph Tiny eateries dish out the delicious and Nauzer Elavia (century-old Bijapur oota, a signature vegetarian mansion). thali that offers jola (jowar/sorghum) or sajji (bajra) roti, vegetable or soppu SHOPPING palya (greens), pulses, mosaru (curd) and the trademark Shinga (also shenga Besides hand-woven Ilkal saris, or groundnut) chutney with sprigs of Vijayapura is famous for grapes and heirloom methi (fenugreek), onion pomegranate (exported to Europe), and cucumber. For multi-cuisine, try raisins and groundnut. The Umadi Karhaai and The Sigdi. Kirana Shop at Lal Bahadur Shastri Market is a good place to buy dry WHERE TO STAY fruits, spices and shenga (groundnut) products. Make sure to pick some Shashinag Clarks Inn ( Tel: 08352- 260344, 260444; Cell: 08151869044, Korti Kolhar matka curd; Bijapur Oota 07568258599; Tariff: `2,000-5,000; TE) on the Solapur Bypass Road is a Bridge over the Almatti Dam, which aids both irrigation and recreation 3-star property features 30 rooms, restaurants, a coffee shop, lounge/ 259234/36; Cell: 08660288008; is located on the right toe of the bar, garden, swimming pool, gym Tariff: ` 1,000) near Basaveshwara river. Though the water is diverted and a spa. KSTDC‘s Mayura Adil Chowk has 46 rooms and a for irrigation purposes, it is also plays Shahi Annexe (Tel: 250401; Cell: restaurant. The Sabala Heritage host to leisure activities like boating 08970650031; Tariff: `1,680) on Home (Cell: 09448118204; Tariff: and is a popular tourist spot. As with Station Road, near Ambedkar 1,600-4,000 + breakfast) on the most dams, it has a nicely laid out Stadium, has four clean rooms, Sabala Campus, NH 13, near Ganesh garden popular with locals. Make a separate veg and non-veg restaurants Nagar, Vijayapura Bypass, offers 7 pit stop at Korti-Kolhar for fresh and Internet service in the lobby AC/ 4 non-AC rooms, veg cuisine matka dahi, served with shenga pudi only. The Hotel Basava Residency (non-veg on request), Internet, (spicy powder) and avalakki (beaten (Tel: 243777; Cell: 091525499; Tariff: Banjara Village visit and cultural rice) besides fresh fish from the dam `2,900-5,200; TE) also on Station activities. It also runs a NGO called served at highway eateries. Road, near Gol Gumbaz, has 28 Sabala for empowerment of local rooms with complimentary breakfast. women, on the city outskirts. Bilgi (63 km) Another option on Station Road is Around 25 km north of Bagalkot, Hotel Kanishka International (Tel: AROUNDs Bilgi has several monuments of the 223788/789, 255506; Tariff: ` 2,500; Kalyana Chalukyas besides the TE) with 26 well-appointed rooms, a Almatti Dam (60 km) Dargah of Hazrat Hassan, which restaurant and Internet service. Hotel The main reservoir of the Upper draws huge crowds during Muharram. Sagar Deluxe (Tel: 251121, Krishna Project (UKP), Almatti dam South of town is the old Shiva temple

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getty images Chalukyan style overlooks the sacred confluence of the Malaprabha, Ghataprabha and Krishna rivers. In 12th century, Jathaveda Muni established a learning centre here where the poet and social reformer Basavana or Basaveshvara spent his childhood and gained education. He founded the Lingayat sect, composed several vachanas and on returning from Kalyana, merged with the Shiva linga here. His underwater samadhi Aikya Mantapa is located at the exact sangama (confluence) and is marked by a stone mantapa (or pavilion) with a linga. After the area was flooded because of the damming of the river, it was converted into a The temple at Kudalasangama overlooks a sacred confluence step-well approachable via a connecting bridge from the Panka Masjid of Siddeshwara, surrounded by and Kamaleshwar temples, the Sangameshwara Temple. The 200 ft hillocks with a beautiful kalyani Mahavir basadi and the Brahmagaddi high Basava Gopura houses the march of time, it is referred to as (tank). An inscription dating to 1695- Veerashaiva Math are the main Basava International Centre and the Bagadage. It appears that one of the 96 on the temple steps mentions attractions here. Syed Peer Dargah ashram has a museum of antiquities. Vijayapura kings decided to present that Khanderao Timmaji a attracts huge crowds during the Kudalasangama has developed into the town to his daughter as ‘bangle’ subordinate of Vizier Haidar Khan annual urs. The town’s other an important pilgrim centre for or ‘ornament money’; consequently built the shrine’s eastern doorway. In highlights include the Mudhol Lingayats; many visitors also offer the place came to be called Bagdikot, the northern part of town is Aretina hound — a special breed of hunting their respects at Basavana Bagewadi, which over time took on the corrupt Bhavi, literally ‘six-bullock well’ in and guard dog known for their hardy the saint’s birthplace. form of ‘Bagilakote’ or ‘Bagalkot’ as Kannada, a beautiful stone kalyani. nature, that was bred exclusively by we know it today. Noteworthy The ruined Shiva shrine inside the the Maratha Ghorpade family who Bagalkot (90 km) shrines include Shri Bhavani, Pandur well is not worshipped as the linga is ruled the area, and its famous According to legend, Bagalkot town anga,Kotalesha,Raghavendraswamy broken. The walls bear Kannada, grindstones and tulsi katte or holy is believed to have been granted to Matha and Motagi Basaveshwara, Marathi and Persian inscriptions basil pedestals. Situated about 20 km the Vajantries (village orchestra) of besides a Jain basadi of Parshwanatha, citing that the well was built by from Mudhol, Lokapura has several Lord Ravana. In Chalukyan a Virakta matha and beautiful Visajipanta, in 1708 AD. Rashtrakuta temples dedicated to inscriptions which have survived the mosques like Panka Masjid. ■ Lokeshwara, Ramalingeshwara and Mudhol (82 km) Durgadevi. Located on the scenic left bank of the Ghataprabha river, Mudhol was Kudalasangama (85 km) #Awesomekarnataka once Muduvolal or ‘Lovely Town.’ It About 20 km north of Hungund, the is the birthplace of famous Kannada 12th century Sangameshwara or poet Ranna. The underground Shiva Sangamanatha temple, built in

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library at Khwaja Bande Nawaz Dargah which houses 10,000 books in Urdu, Persian and Arabic, perhaps education was ingrained in Kalaburagi’s ethos. It was only natural for it to become the educational hub it is today. A unique synthesis of several cultures and many tongues, the historic fortified city brims with citadels, palaces, mosques, stately tombs and bazaars. The Bala Hisar (citadel within a citadel) here is one- of-a-kind and the magnificent Jamia or Jumma Masjid is comparable to the Cordoba mosque in Spain. The dargah of Khwaja Bande Nawaz continues to be one of the holiest Islamic shrines in South India, with Persian friezes, inscriptions and a canopy of mother-of-pearl inlaid with mirrors. There is a whiff of Photographs by Anurag mallick Arabia here as fantastic stories Gulbarga Fort, a military masterpiece abound about paupers turning into Kalaburagi princes, golden oil lamps that could BASTION OF THE BAHMANIS Bahman Shah expanded his kingdom by conquering Bidar, ■ anurag mallick and (bahman) patron. He distinguished Malkhed, Dabhol, Goa, Kolhapur PRIYA GANAPATHY himself in battle and rose through and parts of Telanganga. After his the ranks to become the governor of death in 1358, his eldest son alaburagi (meaning ‘stone Daulatabad province. When the Muhammad Shah I seized the fertile heap’ in Kannada) was nobles of Deccan rebelled against Raichur Doab from the Vijayanagara fast facts Kformerly Gulbarga, a Persian Tughlaq, they captured the fort of kingdom and Golkonda from the When to Go Best in winter, between moniker that described it as ‘a city of Daulatabad and propped up Afghan Raja of Warangal. Kalaburagi October and January flowers and gardens’. It retells the noble Ismail Mukh as the Sultan of prospered and the riches spawned Tourist office ultimate rags-to-riches story of Zafar the Deccan under the title Nasiruddin art and architecture, scholars ● Dept of Tourism, Govt of Karnataka Khan, a poor labourer nominated by Shah. Being old and unable to rule, received royal patronage and No 49, 2nd Floor, Khanija Bhavan Gangu, his Brahmin master in Delhi Ismail handed over authority to Kalaburagi emerged as a centre of Race Course Road, Bengaluru to the service of Muhammad Bin Hassan Gangu, who assumed the learning. When Feroze Shah invited Tel: 080-22352828 Tughlaq. Impressing the Sultan with name Alauddin Bahman Shah, chose Sufi saint Khwaja Bande Nawaz W karnatakatourism.org his zeal and honesty, Zafar became Kalaburagi as his capital (renaming it Gesu Daraz, the place flourished STD codes 08472 (Kalaburagi), 080 known as Hassan Gangu or Gangu Ahsanabad) and laid the foundation into an educational and spiritual (Bengaluru) ‘Bahmani’ after his Brahmin of the Bahmani kingdom in 1347. centre. With a legacy such as the

402 Karnataka Karnataka 403 north Karnataka kalaburagi fly, inscriptions that cast a spell and by Alauddin Bahman, the fort neem leaves that taste sweet if your contains ruins of mosques, temples, wish were to come true. stables, ammunition dump, 15 towers, 26 cannons and several THINGS TO SEE AND DO beautiful courtyards. The highlight, Bara Gaz Top is regarded as one of Gulbarga Fort the largest cannons in the world and West of the city and protected by a is 29 ft long. With no natural wide moat are the desolate ruins of a defence like a hilly site or a river once powerful fort. Originally built nearby, the Bahmanis instead by Raja Gulchand and later fortified endowed Gulbarga Fort with Bala Hissar, a massive rectangular keep, or citadel within a citadel. This important piece of military architecture was inspired by the Crusades and is one of the few examples found in India. The fort getting there lies in ruins with wild shrubs growing Air Nearest airport: Rajiv Gandhi in the moats. To its rear is the 14th International Airport, Hyderabad century Bazaar Street, lined with 1 (230km/5 /2hrs), is well connected to small chambers now converted into metros and cities across India. Taxi dwellings. From here, head down to costs `10-14/km the derelict tombs of the early Khwaja Bande Nawaz Dargah, one of South India’s holiest Muslim shrines Rail Gulbarga Railway Station is Bahmani sultans. Feroze Shah connected to Bengaluru, Hyderabad Bahmani, who died in 1422, is buried filling the inner area. The imposing the impressive gateway flanked by and Mumbai by the Pune-Hyderabad here in the largest and most elaborate tall arch in the main northern tall minarets. In the Junaidi dargah is Express, Udyan Express, Konark of all mausoleums. gateway is also noteworthy. a tree that grew out of Khwaja Gesu Express, Karnataka Express, Daraz’s miswaq (twig of a tree used as Kalaburagi (Kalaburagi)-Hyderabad Jamia Masjid Shah Bazaar Mosque a toothbrush). The tree overshadows passenger train Built in 1367, the large Jamia Masjid The oldest mosque in Kalaburagi, it the courtyard and visitors receive a Road Kalaburagi is connected by commemorates Kalaburagi’s status as is one of the first in India to reflect twig as blessing. 1 highways with Hyderabad (5 /2hrs) the Bahmani capital. Designed by Timurid architectural influences of and Bengaluru; the latter is a 13-hr long Rafi, a Moorish architect from the multi-bay prayer hall, like Khwaja Bande Nawaz Dargah drive which is not too smooth Bus Kwajwin in northern Persia, its Isfahan, seen in a more refined form The tomb of Sufi saint Khwaja Syed There’s a deluxe bus overnighter from elegant domes and arched columns at the Jamia Masjid. Located north of Mohammad ‘Bande Nawaz’ Bengaluru and deluxe and ST buses are reminiscent of the great mosque the fort, the 14th century mosque (Comforter of the people) is one of through the day from Hyderabad. Also of Cordoba in Spain. The fact that it has a domed entrance chamber South India’s holiest Muslim shrines. available from Hyderabad’s main bus does not have an open courtyard leading to a courtyard with a prayer Born in 1321, he became a disciple of stand are KSRTC’s Rajhamsa night bus makes this 38,000 sq ft mosque hall beyond. The dargah of Sufi saint Hazrat Khwaja Nasiruddin when he 1 service (5 /2hrs/ `328), Airavat Gold rather unique in India. A huge dome Sheikh Sirajuddin Junaidi, the simple was fifteen. It is believed that once (3.45hrs/ `491) and Non-AC seater covers the west bay, with four 14th century tomb, has arcaded while carrying his spiritual guide on (6hrs/`233) medium-sized ones at the corners recesses and a flattened dome. In the his shoulders, his long locks of hair and 63 smaller ones arranged in rows 16th century, Yusuf Adil Khan added got entangled in the palanquin but

404 Karnataka Karnataka 405 north Karnataka kalaburagi he suffered the pain quietly, without and the dome is lined with elaborate stopping. Pleased by his dedication, friezes. The mosaic mirrors reflect his mentor conferred the title Gesu verses from the Quran and vibrant Daraz ‘he with the long hair’ on him. paintings. A gold plate stuck to the When Nasiruddin died in 1356, roof of Gesu Daraz’s grandson’s tomb Khwaja Bande Nawaz was appointed is believed to be an oil lamp that the head of the Sufi order in India. miraculously overturned and wafted After forty years in the north, Timur’s to the ceiling when a thief tried to sack of Delhi led him to the Deccan. grab it. The mausoleum opposite has On invitation of the Bahmani sultan, fine ornamentation on the walls, he settled in Kalaburagi, breathing with a lovely drape above the tomb. his last in 1422. His treatises on Story goes that the Khwaja had Sufism, law and philosophy became fathered many sons but wished for a instructional texts for students at his daughter and it finally came true. madrasa in Kalaburagi. Khwaja’s Her grave lies nearby and a neem tomb is encircled by tombs of his tree shades the tomb. It is believed relatives. Men are permitted to enter that if one makes a wish and chews the main tomb while women pray on a neem leaf from the tree, his/her from outside. The canopy over his wish would be granted if it tasted grave has designs in mother-of-pearl sweet. The dargah library houses 10,000 books in Urdu, Persian and A tomb in the Haft Gumbaz Complex Arabic. The 16th century mosque Sharana Basaveshwara Temple, which exemplifies Maratha-style architecture has sculpted brackets while the forecourt has a large ceremonial arch robbers, hence the name Chor later moved to Kalaburagi to dedicate built in 17th century that is unusual. Gumbad (The Dome of Thieves). his life to the service of the people. The dargah of Shah Kamal Mujarrad, British political agent Philips The temple has a richly carved spire another saint who lived in Kalaburagi, Meadows Taylor, author of Confessions with an idol depicting the guru- lies further south. of a Thug, is believed to have camped shishya parampara (tradition) and here for a while. showcases several relics of the saint Chor Gumbad who took mahasamadhi (consciously Perched on an isolated hill west of Sharana Basaveshwara Temple leaving one’s body) here. A chariot town is Chor Gumbad, built as a Set in the heart of town, the 19th festival is held in his honour near tribute to Khwaja Gesu Daraz. It is century Shiva temple is built in Gulbarga tank every year. believed that Ahmad Shah erected it Maratha style and named after 18th to commemorate his victory over his century social reformer Sharana Other monuments brother, Firuz Shah after regaining Basaveshwara who spent much of Also worth seeing are the tombs of the throne in 1422 with support of his life in Kalaburagi. Legend has it Sultan Hasan, Ghias-ud-din, the his spiritual adviser Gesu Daraz. The that when the saint was on his way fine mausoleum of Feroze Shah and 30 m tall structure with a massive to Basavakalyan the region was in family with its two low-slung domes, dome has unusual miniature corner the grips of a severe famine and he trellis windows and kalashas in each chhatris and stucco work with leaf halted at Farhatabad on the outskirts corner, the elaborately decorated motifs on the ceiling. After it was of Kalaburagi. Disturbed by the sight Langar-ki-Masjid, the complex of abandoned, it became the haunt for of starvation, he stayed back and seven royal tombs known as the shutterstock

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Haft Gumbaz on the outskirts of the environment, try Jagdamba Maratha city, the immaculate lawns of Khanavali and Jai Bhavani Maratha Mahboob Gulshan and Kalaburagi’s Khanavali also known as Chaddi many elegant mosques. Hotel (since the owner sported Maratha style shorts in the past). SHOPPING Kababish, Nawaz and Zam Zam Café dish out good biryani and Buy perfume in little glass vials from chicken/mutton curries while Zaiqa ittar sellers and books on religion in Khaja Colony near KVN Medical and philosophy at bookstalls outside College serves samoli (shawarma the dargah. sandwich or stuffed oblong bread). Near the dargah are some shops WHERE TO EAT selling Kalyani biryani.

Kamath Restaurant and Gajanan WHERE TO STAY Khanavali in the Supermarket are popular haunts; city hotels like Hotel The popular Hotel Citrus Gulbarga Colourful street snacks Pariwar and Sanman have good (Tel: 08472-241919; Cell: vegetarian restaurants. Hotel Chetak 09606070807; Tariff: `4,000- 09036235555; Tariff: `1,500-4,000 + dhyana (no talking permitted inside). at Humnabad Base is a small eatery 6,500;TE) near the Gold Hub Mall, breakfast; TE) near Khwaja Bande Photography is not allowed beyond serving fiery Sauji cuisine like mutton Opp KBN Hospital offers 25 rooms Navaz Dargah, on Temple Road has the main entrance arch. chops and kaima unde (meatballs). with complimentary breakfast. It a choice of 43 rooms. For Timings: 9 am-1:30 pm, 4pm - 8pm For spicy Maratha fare in a no-frills has a restaurant, bar and provides convenience sake, it has two Internet services. The Hotel Golden restaurants, one veg and one non Martur (16 km) Fiery Sauji meat curry Regency (Tel: 266688; Cell: veg. The well-stocked bar is a popular The tiny village is known for an 09663535500; Tariff: `1,350-1,575) hub. Also on offer are internet important inscription on a stone on Station Road, behind AK Asian services, room service and TV. plaque at the Kalingeshwara Temple. Grand has 20 rooms with free Dated 1124 AD, it reveals the origins breakfast, room services and For more, see Accommodation Listings of the renowned author of Mitakshara, Internet on pages 438-439 a law treatise written 10 centuries Atharva Hotel (Tel: 277999, ago, followed in Indian courts even 243399 Cell: 09036141999; Tariff: AROUND Kalaburagi today! The legal commentary by `1,900-5,500 + breakfast; TE) located great jurist Vijnaneshwara explains at Ram Mandir Circle, High Court Buddha Vihara (10 km) Yagnvalkya Smruthi, propounded by Road offers 34 rooms, a veg A Buddhist temple complex 10km philosopher Yagnvalkya. Except for a restaurant and internet. The Hotel from the city on Sedam Road near few minor alterations, the laws in Aditya (Tel: 224040-41; Cell: Gulbarga University, the vihara India relating to Hindu joint family, 09740478140; Tariff: `1,600-4,900 + blends architectural features of property rights, stree dhana (women breakfast; TE) opposite the Public eminent Buddhist centers of Sanchi, property) and succession are still Garden on the Main Road offers 62 Sarnath and Ajanta. The white stupa governed by Mitakshara. Discovered rooms with room service and amid landscaped gardens is a serene in 1932 by Prof PB Desai and Internet in the lobby. The Hotel spot best experienced in the evening. deciphered by famous epigraphist Heritage Inn (Tel: 224093-94; Cell: A meditation room is available for Sitaram Jagirdar, the temple

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antiquities, including the 9th century Tungabahdra and Krishna river and temple of Shri Malkhed Tirtha manifested as a pillar that was dedicated to Neminath. The temple installed here. This temple is famous pillars and walls are suffused with for its strange sidi yata ritual to striking carvings. Malkhed is also appease the presiding deity. Local famous for its two great personalities lore says that a saint who came here — Madhava saint Jaya Tirtha or many years ago, prepared an Tikacharya and poet Pushpadanta agnikunda (fireplace) and danced on who wrote during the reign of the fire. Inspired by his devotion, the Rashtrakuta king Krishna II. As per villagers too started to worship the Jain scriptures, Jaya Tirtha came to deity in this manner. The temple Malkhed to spend his final days near practices this ritual to this day. the brindavana of his spiritual master Akshobhya Tirtha and disappeared Shorapur (110 km) on the banks of the river Kagini. Also known as Surapur, this picturesque town lies on a ridge Afzalpur (56 km) surrounded by hills. Scattered around Enroute from Vijayapura to are temples, palaces, mosques, Twin domes of the tomb of Afzal Khan, a loyal general to Adil Shah of Vijayapura Kalaburagi lies the small outpost of ashurkhanas (mourning place) and Afzalpur, built in memory of Afzal an imposing fort. Shorapur was inscription mentions that the powder mixed in coconut oil is Khan, the sipehsalar (Commander in where Raja Venkatappa Naik rebelled medieval jurist was in the court of applied to boils and ulcers, tender Chief) of Adil Shah of Vijayapura. Set against the British in 1857. Standing Emperor Vikramaditya (1076-1126 leaves are used for treating fever. in a garden, the twin domes of Afzal high above town to the north is AD). Born in Masemadu village in Khan’s tomb and mosque see few Taylor’s Manzil, the residence of Bidar, Vijnaneshwara lived in Martur, Ganagapura (38 km) tourists though locals offer namaaz British Political Agent Col. Philip where he wrote his Mitakshara. Also Overlooking the sacred confluence here. The structures are topped with Meadows Taylor and author of worth a look is the millennium-old of the Amreza and Bhima rivers is slender intricately carved minarets Confessions of a Thug. The once baobab tree believed to have been Ganagapura. A famous centre of and are fine examples of intricate beautiful mansion with a manicured brought from Africa by the Dattatreya worship, this pilgrim Islamic architecture. garden sadly stands as a poorly Portuguese. Since the tree grew in centre has the sacred matha of Shri maintained government rest house the Lakshmi Temple, villagers call it Narasimha Saraswathi. Thousands Ghattaraga (70 km) on a bare plot of land today. The Lakshmi gida or ‘Lakshmi’s plant’. come here all year round for a holy About 16 km south of Afzalpur is the single storeyed mansion with a The villagers don’t touch the sacred dip at the sacred confluence whose centuries old Bhagyawanti Devi semicircular portico overlooks the tree for fear of enraging the goddess, waters are believed to possess unique Temple. The tutelary deity of the former garden and town. The which is why it has survived for healing properties. A huge jatra (fair) Vijayanagara kings, the goddess is Gopalaswamy temple draws many centuries. The tree hints that Martur, is held here every February. believed to have come via the crowds, jatra on Janmashtami. ■ an important place during the reign of Vikramaditya VI of the Kalyani Malkhed (39 km) Chalukyas, may have also been a Situated on the banks of river Kagini major trade and business centre. The between Kalaburagi and Sedam, #Awesomekarnataka baobab is packed with medicinal Malkhed was once Manyakhet, the values — the leaves heal wounds capital of the Jain Rashtrakutas. The without leaving scars, burnt leaf famous Jain centre has several Jain

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Ferishta, several foreign engineers and architects were employed in the construction of Bidar Fort. Russian traveller Athanasius Nikitin (1470–1474) was so enamoured by the city that he adopted the name Yusuf Khurasani and lived here for four years, writing a vivid account of life during the Bahmani period. Bhai Sahib Singh, one of the Panj Pyare (five beloved ones), who offered to sacrifice their heads at Guru Gobind Singh’s behest and were baptised as the first members of the Khalsa, was a barber who hailed from Bidar. During his second udasi (holy journey) in 1510–1514, Guru Nanak visited Bidar while travelling from Golconda to Nanded and met Muslim saints Pir Jalaluddin and Yakoob Ali. A gurudwara stands at the spot where he created a fresh Photographs by Anurag mAllick water stream. Bidar Fort, built by a Bahmani ruler For nearly a century, Bidar BIDAR remained the Bahmani capital until City Of Whispering Monuments Kalaburagi served as his capital, Bidar was made a taraf (province). ■ anurag mallick and believed to be the home of Vidura, in The town flourished as the PRIYA GANAPATHY the Hindu epic Mahabharata. Between provincial headquarters and in the 10th and the 13th centuries, it 1424, the ninth Bahmani ruler erched like a crown on came under the Chalukyas, Yadavas Ahmad Shah I shifted his capital to Karnataka’s northeastern tip at and Kakatiyas. In 1322, Muhammad- Bidar. He rebuilt the old Hindu fort FAST FACTS P2,200 ft, Bidar stands on a bin-Tughlaq captured Bidar and left and laid out beautiful palaces and When to go Best from October to plateau overlooking the picturesque it under the charge of his officers and gardens. Reputed Islamic scholar February Manjira river valley. Once covered in a garrison. Tughlaq’s Sadah Amirs Mahmud Gawan came from Arabia Tourist Office dense bamboo clusters, the place was (revenue collectors) and military to Bidar in 1453. Well versed in ● Office of the Assistant Director called Bidarooru or ‘town of bamboos’, commanders rebelled against him Persian and mathematics, he became Department of Tourism from bidaroo (bamboo) and uru and elected the old Ismail Mukh as tutor to Mahmud Shah III (1462– Deputy Commissioner Office Bidar (village). In ancient times, it was their sultan at Daulatabad. After he 1482) and later his Prime Minister, Tel: 08482-225262 Bedadakota, the romantic haunt of abdicated, on August 3, 1347, Zafar looking after the administration for Cell: 08884336435 (DTC) the celebrated mythological pair Khan assumed the title of Alauddin 30 years and constructing several STD code 08482 Nala-Damayanti and Vidurapura, Hasan Bahman Shah. While monuments. According to historian

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the kingdom splintered into five THINGS TO SEE AND DO independent Deccan sultanates in 1518. After the Bahmanis, their The fort, madrasa and watchtower viziers the Baridis (1504–1619) are in the heart of Bidar, while the continued to rule Bidar, which royal tombs dot the red laterite became the seat of the Barid Shahi countryside at Ashtur just outside dynasty. The Bijapur Sultanate took town to the east. Jharna Narsimha Bidar in 1619, which in turn was lies nearby to the south while Guru conquered by Mughal emperor Nanak Jhira is located in the north Aurangzeb in 1656 and later the and Papnash temple in the northwest Nizams of Hyderabad. Enriched by of town. various influences, art, craft and culture prospered here. Bidriware, a Moti Masjid silver etching craft unique to the Located near Talghat Darwaza, Moti city, was patronised by its sultans Masjid was built in 1694 out of black and named after the place. There trapstone and is hence popularly are over 90 monuments in and known as Kali Masjid (Black Mosque). around Bidar, including 30 tombs The vaulted ceiling has fine plaster that draw historians, offbeat decorations and another unique This part of the fort, Rangeen Mahal, was designed by a Persian architect travellers and lovers of architecture feature is the presence of a number to this fascinating ‘City of of khanqabs (hospices) or Sufi Bidar Fort the sculpted basalt lions on the Whispering Monuments’. dwellings, which are still in use. Archaeological finds confrm the arched entrance. The parapet above remains of a Hindu fort dating to 3rd has a band of coloured- tiles with a Solah Kumbh Mosque, built by the Bahamanis, and restored by Aurangzeb century BCE, which was later used by Naubat Khana (drum gallery) upstairs. the Chalukyas, Yadavas and Kakatiyas. The path zigzags to the domed In its present form, the 15th-century Gumbad Darwaza—it’s said that Bidar Fort encircling the town was 3,000 men could take up positions built by Ahmad Shah Bahmani between the two gates to defend the between 1426 and 1432. A series of formidable fort. The ingenious seven imposing darwazas (gates) Mandu Darwaza has an entrance guarded the old city, which was through an underground tunnel. surrounded by a 5.5 km-long wall Rangeen Mahal, built by second and a triple moat built by Turkish Barid Shahi ruler Ali Barid (1542-80) mercenaries and designed along the using a Persian architect features lines of medieval European forts. The elaborately carved wooden pillars, moat was once infested with Persian couplets engraved in encaustic crocodiles. Ahmad Wali Shah laid out tiles and exquisite mother-of-pearl magnificent gardens, fountains and inlay work. Gagan Mahal (Sky water features. Most of the façade, Palace) has two large courts and was moat and 37 bastions surmounted built by the Bahmani kings in 14-15th with cannons are intact. Enter from century with later additions by the the southeast through the majestic Barid Shahis. Near it are the Shahi Sharza Darwaza, called so because of Matbakh (Royal Kitchen) and Shahi saibal das

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Hamam (Royal Bath), now converted once rested, the Takht Mahal, the into a museum housing a modest Royal Pavilion and Hazar Kothri. collection of 13th-century sculptures Today, all that remains of it are the and weaponry. Further on is the black basalt bases of carved pillars Zenana with a 16-columned prayer that once held up an ornate wood hall built in 1423 by Qubli Sultani and mortar ceiling. known as the Solah Khamba Masjid. Once the town’s main mosque, it is Madrasa of Mahmud Gawan the oldest Muslim building in Bidar One look at the decorative white, and one of the largest mosques in yellow and green tiles on the minaret India. Next to it is the double-storeyed and the viewer is immediately Tarkash Mahal, built for the Sultan’s transported to Isfahan. These tiles Turkish queen and the royal harem. were indeed brought from Persia and The walls have colourful tiles and the madrasa was styled on West stucco work while the upper rooms Asian architecture. As prime minister feature the trademark Barid Shahi of the Bahmani kingdom, Mahmud motif of a chain and pendant. Don’t Gawan oversaw the construction of miss the Diwan-e-Aam where the several buildings, including his Takht-e-Firozi (Turquoise Throne) legendary madrasa in 1472. Familiar Madrasa of Mahmud Gawan, with its visibly Persian design influence with renowned colleges at Samarkand Ashtur Bahmani tombs and Khorasan, Gawan’s madrasa too calligraphy featured on its tiles, building is approached by a wide was a multi-disciplinary university. which remain intact to this day. flight of stairs. The high crenellated An imposing three-story building parapet has corner finials. Each face with 100 ft-tall minarets in four Chaubara has two tiers of arched recesses with corners, the large courtyard was Right in the heart of Bidar stands a rectangular opening at the centre. surrounded by cubicles where Chaubara, a circular watchtower. The 600-yr-old mausoleum is a students could stay. It had large Strategic to the city’s defense, it popular pilgrim spot for those seeking lecture halls, a prayer hall, mosque offered a great vantage on all sides a cure for illnesses. and a library housing 3,000 rare and currently serves the same volumes. After Gawan was wrongly purpose as a traffic roundabout. The Ashtur Bahmani tombs executed on charges of treason, the flight of 80 steps through a winding A 3 km-winding drive to Ashtur, a madrasa suffered greatly after his staircase leading to the top of the small village east of Bidar leads you death, though the building stood tower was sealed off recently. to the royal tombs erected by firm for two centuries. Following the Bahmani kings from 1436 to 1535. capture of Bidar by Aurangzeb in late Chaukhandi Known for their secular outlook and 17th century, the buildings served as West of the Ashtur necropolis on a empathy towards their predominantly a powder magazine and barracks for hillock stands Chaukhandi, an Hindu subjects, it is significant that his cavalry. Unfortunately, a huge octagonal mausoleum of Hazrat Shah the Bahmani tombs were located in arsenal explosion destroyed much of Khalilullah Rahmat Ali Kirmani the outskirts of the city unlike those the edifice, its rooms and three Baba, a Shia saint and spiritual of the Barid Shahi rulers. minarets. Only a few cubicles, a advisor to the Bahmani rulers. Many The onion-domed tombs of the lone minaret and the adjacent of his followers have been buried Bahmani kings and their wives are mosque beautified by the elegant alongside. This unusual two-storeyed square-shaped with arched arcades

416 Karnataka Karnataka 417 north Karnataka BIDAR all around. The interiors have blackened by the soot of candles and coloured and gilded paintings of oil lamps lit by devotees who consider great beauty on the ceilings, while him a Sufi saint. Nearby, is his son the exteriors have bulbous domes, Allauddin Shah II’s tomb with unique stone carvings and coloured tiles. blackstone edgings. The two most impressive are those The most unusual tomb is that of of the ninth and tenth Bahmani a later ruler, the Sultan Humayun, rulers, Ahmad Shah I and Allauddin which got split in half by lightning. Shah II. The interior of Ahmad In order to lessen the load on the Shah I’s tomb is embellished with dome of his tomb, spongy bricks exquisite gilded paintings. Sadly, that float in water were used, making most of the murals have been it an innovation in construction. destroyed by the leaking roof and Barid Shahi tombs Set in a sprawling landscaped garden called Barid Shahi Park stand the tombs of the Barid Shahi dynasty. Qasim Barid (1481-1504), originally a Turkish slave of Bahmani Sultan getting there Mahmud Shah, got Mahmud Gawan Air Nearest airport: Rajiv Gandhi executed and became the prime International Airport, Hyderabad minister and eventually the de facto The Chaubara watchtower; Barid Shahi tombs; Guru Nanak Jhira Sahib gurdwara 1 (137km/ 2 /2 hrs). Taxi `10-14 per km ruler. His tomb is plain and small Rail Bidar Station is connected to with a conical dome for which bricks II (1587-1591) has a squat façade and (jhira means spring) after the Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Mumbai, Shirdi, with decreasing girth were used for spiral motifs in the arch of miraculous mountain spring with Pune, Aurangabad and other cities by better stability. Since it is not the southern entrance. Several medicinal properties. An Amrit Kund the Mumbai-Bidar Express, Pune- plastered, building techniques of the pyramidal tombs can also be found was built at the origin of the spring Hyderabad Express, Machilipatnam- time can be seen easily. Ali Barid in the same enclosure. and devotees sprinkle holy water and Bidar SF Express, Hazur Sahib Shah’s tomb, built by him three collect some to take home. Visitors Nanded-Bengaluru Express, years before his death in 1577, is one Guru Nanak Jhira Sahib must cover their heads to enter the Yesvantpur-Bidar Express etc of the finest examples of Islamic Located near Ali Barid’s tomb, Guru gurdwara. The small Guru Tegh Road Bidar is quite well connected by architecture. A two storied gateway Nanak Jheera is said to be the largest Bahadur Museum in the complex National Highways to Bengaluru and leads to the 70 ft-high tomb with a Sikh temple in Karnataka. The story showcases Sikh history. Every year, Hyderabad Bus It is about 14-15hrs big dome supported by four pillars goes that the first Sikh guru visited thousands of Sikhs from across the ride by several bus services from and a grand pavilion set on a high Bidar in April 1512 when the area country visit Guru Nanak Jhira, Bengaluru, including KSRTC’s (Tel: 080- platform built in green granite and was in the grips of a severe famine. which defies region’s aridity by 49596666) Rajhamsa service (`1,006) laterite. Rich floral designs have been To rid the scarcity of drinking water, gushing forth all year round. Airavat Club (`1,187), Non A/c Sleeper carved on stone and painted tiles Guru Nanak uttered ‘Sat Kartar’, (`1,439). KSRTC also offers two and calligraphic patterns line the shifted a stone with his wooden Jharna Narasimha Temple services from Hyderabad, which are — inside of the dome. In front of it is sandal, and out gushed a crystal clear The subterranean temple carved into Rajhamsa (`195/ 3hrs) and Airavat the tomb of Ibrahim Barid Shah, spring of sweet water from a laterite a plateau is located in a cave 1 Club `287/3 /2 hrs) similar in design but smaller. The trap in the mountain. This place approachable by a 100 m-passage tomb of the last sultan Qasim Barid came to be known as Nanak Jhira filled with chest-high water. The

418 Karnataka Karnataka 419 north Karnataka BIDAR

mould of ordinary soil made malleable with temple authorities rent out clothes Bidri castor oil and resin. The molten metal alloy for visitors who wade through the Bidar is known for a special type of is poured into it and allowed to cool and murky waters of the underground encrusted metalware known as bidri harden. The surface is smoothened with jharna (stream), past overhanging characterized by intricate floral and files and scrapers till it shines. It is then colonies of bats, for a darshan of Lord geometric designs, inlaid in gold, silver or blackened with copper sulphate solution to Narasimha. Legends recount a fight brass onto a black matte surface. The be etched into a traditional design. With between Lord Narasimha and Jala ancient and attractive craft evolved over the Bidri piece firmly fixed on a waxed Rakshasa (water demon) and how 4000 years ago from the culture-rich stone, the craftsman uses small chisels to the demon was defeated. However Persians, Syrians and Iranians and came engrave the design, drawn freehand with a his dying wish was to be close to the to Bidar in early 15th century. Abdulla-bin- sharp metal stylus. Into these chiseled lord, hence, the unusual underwater Kaiser, a Persian artisan brought from Iran grooves, he carefully hammers pure silver access to the shrine where the Lord is by Sultan Ahmed Shah Wali Bahmani in the form of fine wire or flat sheet. After in his ugra roopa (fierce form). For introduced the craft to others in the the inlay, the article is filed smooth and this reason, devotees do not see the Mahmud Gawan madrasa. From buffed. During the final oxidation process, idol directly but only in the reflection ornamentation of royal swords and the shiny surface is blackened so that the of a plate held by the priest. Paan, a local favourite weapons, the Sultans extended its use to silver inlay design stands out. There is a vases, goblets and hookah bases. By mid- particular type of soil found in this area Papanaash Temple WHERE TO EAT 17th century, the craft was popular as which when mixed with ammonium chloride The beautiful Papanaash temple is ‘Bidari’. The original Persian technique and water, produces a very special paste. located in a valley and is dedicated While in Bidar, try the langar (mela involved inlaying gold or silver on a steel or When rubbed onto the heated Bidri article, to Lord Shiva. Legend has it that at the free kitchen) at Gurudwara copper base. However, today, the base the paste darkens the body of the piece, Lord Rama installed the linga here, Nanak Jhira Saheb. Rohit Restaurant metal is a zinc-copper alloy in the proportion but has no effect on the intricate silver on his return from Sri Lanka. People at Guru Nanak Colony inside Guru 16:1 with designs in silver or brass. The inlay. Finally, groundnut or coconut oil is also believe that one can see snakes Nanak Gate en route to the gurudwara zinc gives the alloy a deep black color. used to polish each item and deepen the guarding the idol especially during is excellent for Punjabi and North Each Bidri piece is cast separately using a black matte coating. Shivaratri. A natural spring flows Indian veg fare. There are several into the temple pond, believed to pure veg options like SSV Restaurant have curative powers. and Kamat Hotel on Udgir Road while Royal Anmol Restarant nearby Dev Dev Vana on New Bus Station Road offers non- An Eco-Tourism center, 6 km from veg dishes as well. Try allu susula, Bidar town on the Hyderabad sometimes mispronounced as Highway, Dev Dev Vana is a Botanical ‘Sushila’, a popular breakfast item of Garden home to more than 200 tempered puffed rice. For jowar roti medicinal plants. and local food, head to Lakshmi Khanavali or Aum Shree Rakshaka SHOPPING Tiffin & Meals at Madival Circle.

Bidriware can be bought from several Where to stay workshop-cum-showrooms on Chowbara Road. From vases, boxes, Most of the accommodation in letter openers to decorative and Bidar comprises simple, basic city autilitarian items, it is all here. hotels to choose from. Hotel Shiva

420 Karnataka Karnataka 421 north Karnataka BIDAR

Courtesy wikimedia commons Chalukya dynasty. The 11th century Iswara temple here is dedicated to Kamalishvara and has splendid sculptures of Ganesha and Narasimha. The temple’s exterior walls are adorned with bracket figures of seductive madanikas that are ‘moon- breasted, swan-waisted and elephant- hipped’ in alluring posess — shasana sundari or shilabalika inscribing an epigraph and salabhanjika in tribhanga (tri-bent) pose while holding the branch of a sal tree. The star-shaped temple plan and sculptures were evidently the source of inspiration for the celebrated Hoysala bracket figures at Belur, Iswara Temple, Jalasangvi Halebidu and Somanathapura. Basavakalyan (78 km) An arch at Basavakalyan, known as the place where many saints lived Humnabad (52km) King Someshwara I (1042–1068) Humnabad is famous for its ancient moved the capital of the Kalyani International (Cell: 09900292989; Sales Tax Office, Gandhiganj, offers temples. The serene shrine of Lord Chalukyas from Manyakheta (present Tariff: `800-1,700) opposite 22 basic rooms. Jungle Lodges’ Veerbhadreshwara dates back to Malkhed) to Kalyan in 1050 and it Akkamahadevi College, next to the Blackbuck Resort (Tel: 080- 1725 and is greatly renowned for its remained so till 1195. This was the Reliance Petrol Bunk, New on 40554055; Cell: 09611158198; unique moving pillar. The colourful centre of a great social and religious Naubad Road, Nawadgeri has 34 Tariff: `5,200 pp + meals & activities) annual jatra (fair) is held over 10 upheaval in 12th century. Famed for clean but basic rooms with room is 18km from town and in close days from 26 January and the its cultural heritage and renowned service. The Sai Palace Lodge proximity to Vilaspur Lake and mahotsava features pulling rathas or for the saints who made the town (Cell:09448335886; Tariff: `650- Honnikeri Reserve Forest offers 18 temple chariots. A similar festival is their home, including social reformer 1,000; TE) opposite the Central Bus cottages, nature walks, bird held in November at Changlara Basaveshwara, Akka-Mahadevi, Stand, behind Mayura Restaurant in watching, trekking and safaris village nearby. Also worth a look is Channabasavanna and Siddarama, Shiva Nagar, offers 31 rooms and the Manik Prabhu temple at Basavakalyan became a seat of has its own multi-cuisine restaurant For more, see Bidar Accommodation Humnabad dedicated to the famous learning and spiritual wisdom. Of and bar. Hotel The Krishna Regency Listings on page 432 ascetic and overlooking the turbulent importance here are the Basavakalyan (Tel: 08482-221991; Cell: confluence of the lovely Viraja and Fort, museum with 10th century Jain 09341111136; Tariff: `850-1,500) at Around Bidar Guru Ganga streams. idols and Basaveshwara Temple. n Swamy Towers on Udgir Road , near the KSRTC bus stand offers 22 Jalasangvi (40km) decent rooms, with room service. Located 10km northwest of Another option is the budget Hotel Humnabad off the Bidar-Kalaburagi #Awesomekarnataka Ashoka (Tel: 08482–227621; Cell: highway towards Dubalgundi, 09448126155l; Tariff: `700-1,000) Jalasangvi was built by King near Deepak Film Talkies, opposite Vikramaditya VI of the Kalyana

422 Karnataka Karnataka 423 Information TOURIST OFFICES/ TOUR OPERATORS

TOURIST OFFICES TOUR OPERATORS

In f o r m a t i o n In f o r m a t i o n & Bo o k i n g BENGALURU STD 080 Sky Way Tour trekking Destinations All Arjun Tours & Travels Location Tourism House, 8 Karnataka, excluding Coorg, Karnataka Tourism Ground Floor, BMTC Uttara Kannada Location Karnataka Tourism Papanna Lane, St. Marks Madikeri W karnatakatourism.org Yeshwantpur TTMC (Bus Tel 08382-221172 House, FF, 8 Papanna Lane Road, Benguluru Tel 22111401 Karnataka State Tourism Stand), Yeshwantpur Circle Cell 09483132206 (TO) St. Marks Rd, Bengaluru Cell 08884467467 W NAGARAHOLE STD 0821 Development Corporation Bengaluru 09742322901(DTC) Tel 22217054 Cell 099019 skywaytour.com Services Tour JLR (Wildlife Safari- (KSTDC) Tel 43344334 09419 W arjuntours.com packages, accommodation, Karnataka) W kstdc.co Cell 08970650070/ 75 MADIKERI Services Tour packages, transport, jlr/ Golden Chariot Location JLR King’s Jungle Lodges and Department of Tourism accommodation, transportation, bookings Destinations All Sanctuary, Veerana Hosahali Resorts Ltd BADAMI Office of the Assistant local sightseeing, ticketing Karnataka Gate, Nagarahole, Hunsur Cell W junglelodges.com KSTDC Director Destinations All Karnataka 09591139114, 09480395742, The Golden Chariot Hotel Mayura Chalukya Stewart Hills Road, Madikeri DANDELI STD 08284 09632566454 W junglelodges. W goldenchariot.org Ramdurg Road Kodagu Bakpackers Foundation Dandeli.Com (Rafting) com Services Accommodation, PWD Compound Tel 08272-228580 Location No. 76, Annayappa Location Solad Complex, Opp Wildlife Jungle Safari State Tourism Offices Badami Cell 09448004466 (TO) Gardens, New Thippasandra Syndicate Bank, JN Road Destinations All wildlife BENGALURU Tel 08357-220046 Bengaluru Cell 09449649236, Dandeli Tel 233721 Cell sanctuaries of Karnataka n Department of Tourism (HO) Cell 08970650024 KSTDC 09731873096 W bakpackers. 09902474761 W dandeli.com, Government of Karnataka Hotel Mayura Valley View org Services Trekking, thekarnatakatourism.com COORG Near Raja’s Seat, Stuart Hill mountaineering, backpacking, Services Tour packages, SURFING CLUBS No. 49, 2nd Floor, Khanija KSTDC Madikeri rock climbing, parasailing, accommodation, transport, Time for surfing Morning Bhavan, Race Course Road Hotel Mayura Talakavery Cell 08970650028 paragliding, parent-child watersports and adventure and Evening Lessons Bengaluru Virajpet-Talakaveri Road camps, accommodation, activities Destinations All Surf Season Oct – April Tel 080-22352525/ 2727/ 2828 Bhagamandala Mangaluru transport Destinations Karnataka Bookings from August Cell 09686633491 Coorg Department of Tourism All Karnataka 07795516979 District Tourism Tel 08272-243143 Office of the Assistant HAMPI STD 08394 Mangalore Surf Club Consultant (DTC) Cell 08970650030 Director Dravidian Trails Hamsa Tours & Travel Location Tannir Bavi Beach Room No. 02, Commercial Location 18, Santhapriya (Bouldering) 2, Sultan Battery Ferry Line, Office of the Deputy Director HOSPET/ Hampi Complex, 1st Floor, Dakshina Ambabhavani Nagar Location Travel Desk Heritage Kasba Bengre, Mangaluru (Urban) Department of Tourism Kannada, Mangaluru Someshwara Road Resort Hampi, Cell 09482213019 W surf District Panchayath Bldg Office of the Deputy Director Tel 0824-2453926 Vidyaranyapura, Benguluru Hosamalpangudi, Hampi Road mangalore.com Services KG Road, Bengaluru Near Lotus Mahal Cell 08105472464 (DTC) Cell 09844792197, 093427 Ballai Cell 08884489443, Surfing, stand up paddle, Tel 22204415 Kamalapura, Hospet Taluk 55647, W dravidiantrails.in 09686552820, 09845205589 slack lining, training on surf Cell 09686633491 Hospet (Bellary) MYSURU Services Tour packages, W hamsatours.com Services lifesaving Destination Cell 07996463857 (TO) Karnataka State Tourism accommodations, transport Accommodation, rock climbing, Tannir Bavi Beach, Mangaluru Office of the Assistant 08660646812 (DTC) Development Corporation Destinations Karnataka and bouldering, village tours, Director (Rural) (KSTDC) Southern Indian Trails seasonal winery tour, bird The Shaka Surf Club DC Office Complex KSTDC 2, Jhansi Rani Laxmi Bai watching, guide Destinations Location Kodi Benge, 213 Chapparkalu Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneshwari Road, Mysuru Hoysala Tours and Travels Hampi, Badami, Vijayapura Udupi Cell 09986742710 Dheer Sandra Kamalapur, Hampi, Bellary Tel 0821-2423652 Location 30, 7th B Main and other parts of Karnataka W theshakasurfclub.com Devanahalli Tel 08394-241574 Cell 08970650109 Road 4th Block, Jayanagar Services Accommodation Bengaluru Cell 08970650025 Bengaluru Tel 22441763 Travel Maaya (Bicycle Tours) with local cuisines, surf Cell 09591778824 (DTC) VIJAYAPURA Cell 09845064452 Location Opp to Mango Tree camp, kayaking, yoga Tariff KARWAR KSTDC W hoysalatours.com Restaurant, Janatha Plot `5,000/person/night +meals, Karnataka State Tourism Department of Tourism Hotel Mayura Adil Shahi Services Tour packages, Hampi Cell 09482826490, stay, 2 surf lesson Development Corporation Office of the Deputy Director Station Road, Vijayapura safaris, accommodation, 09152924551 Services Tour Destination Kodi Bengre (KSTDC) NH-17, Near RTO Office Tel 250401 transportation Destinations packages, accommodation, Beach, Udupi Central Reservation Office Goa Main Road Karwar Cell 08970650031 n All Karnataka transport, bicycle tours,

424 Karnataka Karnataka 425 Information Transport Directory

Transport Directory AIRLINE OFFICES BENGALURU CANTT RAILWAY STATION AIRINDIA Located in the Cantonment in Vasant Nagar this AIR BUS Toll Free: 18602331407 W airindia.in station connects to major metros and cities KEMPEGOWDA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (BIAL) KSRTC Flybus STARAIR across India Also known as Bengaluru International Airport, it Kempegowda Airport, Bengaluru Airport Tel: 080-66783303 W starair.in BENGALURU CITY JUNCTION is located at Devanahalli, 40 km from Bengaluru Helpline Cell: 09972213726 Origin: Bengaluru This station is connects Bengaluru to major Customer Care Tel: 080-44554422 Tip SpiceJet operates flights from Hyderabad metros and cities across India HELPLINES KSRTC’s 24-hrs non-stop Flybus, hourly service and StarAir now flies from Ahmedabad to YESHWANTPUR RAILWAY STATION Toll Free: 18004254425 operates between: Belgaum on all days except Tuesdays This station is served by long distance trains W bengaluruairport.com Kempegowda Aiport and Mysuru— (4 hrs/ from major metros and cities in India `800) MYSURU AIRPORT AIRLINE OFFICES Kempegowda Aiport and Manipal, via Mangaluru Distance from Mysuru Airport to town is 10km MANGALURU AIR INDIA — (9-10 hrs/`1,250) HELPLINES The city’s major railheads are: Airport Tel: 080-66785161, 22978423 Airport Tel: 0821-2596802 W aai.aero MANGALURU CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION Toll Free: 18602331407 W airindia.in Bengaluru Metropolitan Transport Located on Old Kent Road, Hampankatta this Madurai (via Chennai) Corporation’s (BMTC) Airport Shuttle Service AIRLINE OFFICE station is connected to major metros and cities ALLIANCE AIR Helpline: 18004251663 W mybmtc.com TRUJET in India Toll Free: 18602331407 W airindia.in/alliance-air Air-conditioned Volvo buses (Vayu Vajra) run Customer Care Tel: 040-40904090 W trujet.com MANGALURU JUNCTION RAILWAY STATION GO AIR every 15-20 mins between the airport and the city Origin: Chennai Situated on the outskirts of the city it is well Customer Care: 022-62732111 connected to major metros and cities in India Toll Free: 18602100999 W goair.in MANGALURU INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT HUBbaLLI AIRPORT SURATHKAL RAILWAY STATION INDIGO Mangaluru Airport is 13km from town The airport is 8 km from town This station is located in Kadambodi and Tel: 0124-6173838 HELPLINES offers connections to Thiruvananthapuram, Cell: 09910383838 W goindigo.in Kenjar, Bajpe, Mangaluru AIRLINE OFFICES Alapuzzha, Ernakulum, Madgaon, Ratnagiri, SPICEJET Airport Director Tel: 0824-2220400 SPICEJET Mumbai, etc. Cell: 09871803333, 09654003333 W mangaloreairport.com; aai.aero Cell: 09871803333, 09654003333 W spicejet.com W spicejet.com STARAIR MYSURU STARAIR AIRLINE OFFICES Airport Tel: 080-66783303 W starair.in MYSURU JUNCTION Airport Tel: 080-66783303 W starair.in AIR INDIA Origin: Bengaluru, Jindal Vidynagar, Tirupati This station is connected to major metros and Origin: Belgaum, Tirupati (via Hubballi) Toll Free: 18602331407 W airindia.in cities in India TRUJET INDIGO JINDAL VIDYANAGAR AIRPORT, BELLARY Customer Care Tel: 040-40904090 W trujet.com Tel: 0124-6173838 Cell: 09910383838 Distance from Jindal Airport to town is 36km HASSAN Origin Jindal Vidyanagar W goindigo.in HASSAN JUNCTION VISTARA SPICEJET AIRLINE OFFICE This station is connected to major metros and Cell: 09289228888 W airvistara.com Cell: 09871803333, 09654003333 TRUJET cities in India Origin: Ahmedabad, Delhi W spicejet.com Customer Care Tel: 040-40904090 W trujet.com Origin: Bengaluru, Hubballi SRIRANGAPATNA AIRPORT TRANSFERS AIRPORT TRANSFERS SRIRANGAPATNA RAILWAY STATION TAXIS KSRTC operates frequent bus services to the city. RAIL This station is a convenient link for Pre-Paid Taxi There’s a 24-hr Prepaid Taxi Counter as well HELPLINES Sravanabelagola (81km/2hrs from Bengaluru) KSTDC City Taxi Tel: 080-41553333 Enquiry – 139 Cell: 09880121969 W kstdccitycabs.com SAMBRA AIRPORT, BELGAUM Online information and reservation W indianrail. NANJANGUD State-run KSTDC city taxis are metered; Belgaum Airport is 10km from town gov.in; irctc.co.in NANJANGUD RAILWAY STATION fare Rs 14.50-19.50/ km HELPLINES This is the nearest railhead for Bandipur (54km) Mega Cabs Airport Director Tel: 0831-2562020 BENGALURU but Mysuru is the bigger railway station with Tel: 080-47474747 W megacabs.com W aai.aero The city has three major railheads: better connections

426 Karnataka Karnataka 427 Information Transport Directory

BIRUR RADIO CABS KSRTC offers connectivity from Bengaluru within (TNSTC) and Andhra Pradesh State Road BIRUR JUNCTION Easy Cabs the State and beyond; its services include Transport Corporation (APSRTC) This station is a convenient railhead for Tel: 080-43434343 FLYBUS, Airavat Bliss, Airavat Superia and Chikkamagaluru (46km), Shivgiri Trails (17km) W easycabs.com Volvo Club Class PRIVATE BUS SERVICES and Kemmanagudi (35km). It is connected to Mega Cabs Ganesh Travels & Tours major metros and cities in India Tel: 080-47474747 PRIVATE BUS SERVICES Location: Old Bus Stand, Hampankatta W megacabs.com Sugama Tourists Tel: 0824-2440977 Vijayapura/ BIJAPUR Meru Cabs Location: No 7, Vishwa Complex, 2nd Cross, W ganeshbus.in BIJAPUR RAILWAY STATION Tel: 080-44224422 Gandhinagar; Tel: 080-22377777 Located near Gol Gumbaz this station W merucabs.in W sugamatourists.com MYSURU is connected to major metros and cities Ola Cabs Tejas Tours & Travels TAXI in India W olacabs.com Location 2, Shiva Garden, Opp BMT Bus Depot, Mysore Cabs Old Madras Road, Hoskote; Tel: 27906363, Location: 3502, 3rd Main Road, 3rd Cross, Tilak HOSPET CAR RENTALS 29706363 Cell: 09980277773 Nagar; Cell: 09972395189 W mysorecabs.com HOSPET RAILWAY STATION Clear Car Rental W tejastravels.com Mysore Taxiwala This station is connected to major metros and Cell: 08888855220 Location: #1244, 1st Cross, Krishnamurthypuram cities in India W clearcarrental.com MANGALURU Tel: 0821-4264040 Cell: 09972110099 TAXI W mysoretaxiwala.com KARNATAKA COASTAL AREA BUS Cel Cabs Cell: 09243603037, 09343135100 DHARWAD RAILWAY STATION BENGALURU METROPOLITAN TRANSPORT W celcabs.com BUS This station is connected to major metros and CORPORATION (BMTC) KARNATAKA STATE ROAD TRANSPORT cities in India HELPLINES CAR RENTALS CORPORATION (KSRTC) GOKARNA RAILWAY STATION Control Room Cell: 07760991399 City Taxi Tours & Travels KSRTC BUS STAND This station is an important stop on the Konkan BMTC BUS STANDS Location: Near Don Bosco Hall, Bolmatta Gen Enquiry Cell: 07760990763 Line and is connected to Mumbai, Panjim, Kempegowda Bus Stand Tel: 080-22952311, Cell: 07795012677, 07795012699 KSRTC City Bus Stand Cell: 07760990954 Mangaluru and Ernakulum 22952314 W citytaximangalore.com HUBLI RAILWAY STATION Shivajinagar Bus Stand Tel: 080-22952321, Mangalore Taxi KSRTC HELPLINES This station is connected to major metros and 22952324 Location: 1st Floor, CEE PEE Complex, NH48, Chamarajnagar Bus Depot Cell: 07760990313 cities in India Pumpwell; Cell: 09972722878, 09071064179 Chikkamagaluru Gen Enquiry Cell: KARWAR RAILWAY STATION BMTC runs both ordinary and air-conditioned W mangaloretaxi.com 07760990419-20 Hassan Gen Enquiry Cell: This station is connected to major metros and luxury buses on major routes. The BMTC’s 07760990523 cities in India Airport Shuttle Service, operated the air- BUS SHIMOGA RAILWAY STATION conditioned Vayu Vajra Volvo bus is very KARNATAKA STATE ROAD TRANSPORT The KSRTC Terminal is located opposite the main It is the nearest (80km) railhead for Honnemardu convenient for the city-airport run. CORPORATION (KSRTC) Railway Station. It offers services for long and is linked to Bengaluru Vayu Vajra also operate along some routes KSRTC BUS STAND distance travel. KSRTC’s Skybus service from UDUPI RAILWAY STATION within the city. Location: Bejai and to Kempegowda Airport, Bengaluru has been It offers linkages between the north and south Gen Enquiry Tel: 0824-2211243 welcomed as it’s swift and cheaper than taxi. along the west coast by the Konkan line. KARNATAKA STATE ROAD TRANSPORT CORPORATION (KSRTC) State Bank Bus Stand/Mangaluru Bus Stand PRIVATE BUS SERVICES ROAD HELPLINES Location: 4th Cross Road, Uppinagadi Village Seabird Tourists BENGALURU Control Room Cell: 07760990100, 07760990560 Gen Enquiry Cell: 09663266001 2932/L32, Shop No 12, Bengaluru-Nilgiri Road TAXI General Enquiry Tel: 080-49596666 KSRTC has express and luxury buses Near Kalyan Jewellers, Five Light Circle KSTDC City Taxi connecting Bengaluru, Chennai, Mumbai, Tel: 4288818 Cell: 09900081578, 09243726812 Tel: 080-41553333 KSRTC BUS STANDS Chikkamagaluru, etc. The bus stand is also W seabirdtourists.com Cell: 09880121969 Satellite Bus Stand Cell: 07760990530 serviced by Kerala State Transport (KSRTC), Tip (Only for Mysuru, Bengaluru, Chennai, W kstdccitycabs.com Shantinagar Bus Stand Cell: 07760990531 Tamil Nadu State Transport Corporation Mumbai, Goa) n

428 Karnataka Karnataka 429 ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS hotels

Legend Forest Department BELGAUM STD 0831 Roy Road, Opp ITC Gardenia Cottages frh Southern Star Belgaum Near Richmond Circle Tel NA Not accepted Location Inside the forest, Location Opp Belgaum Golf 41350000-01 W ramanashree. / / ` NH National Highway Accommodation type? Special Hotel needs? Bandipur NP Tel 236043 51 Course, Katgali Road, Desur com Rooms 68 Tariff 5,500- Spot these flags 60 W bandipurtigerreserve.in Khanapur Cell 07676902709 9,000 +breakfast; TE NP National Park Spot these flags Rooms 19, dorms 3 Tariff W hotelsouthernstar.com Facilities Restaurants, heritage tents safari treks spa Opp Opposite `1,600, dorm `2,016-4,470 Rooms 13 Tariff `3,500 gym, travel help homestay adventure Cruise PO Post +park charges Facilities +breakfast; TE Facilities TE Taxes extra Dining hall, jungle safari, Restaurant, internet, room Lemon Tree Premier WLS Wildlife Sanctuary METRO RESERVATIONS wildlife movie service, TV Location 2/1, St John’s Road To book any state tourism hotel in your city, see the Tourist Offices listings on p418 Tip Online Reservations Ulsoor Tel 44802000 W IN CHIGARIMALE lemontreehotels.com Rooms hotels easy access The Serai Resort Belgavi Nature Camp JLR 188 Tariff `4,500-30,000 Location Kaniyanapura Location Opp Rani +breakfast; TE Facilities Badami 430 Dandeli-Anshi 434 Karwar 439 Mangala, Gundlupet Tel Channamma University Restaurant, bar, swimming Bandipur 430 Dharmasthala 435 Kemmannagundi 439 236075, 080-40012200 Chigarimale, Halabhavi Village pool, spa, gym W Belgaum 431 Dubare 435 Kollur 440 Rerservations Cell 094898 Kakati Cell 09449599782 23601 W theserai.in Rooms junglelodges.com Rooms 5 New Kumarakrupa Guest Belur-Halebid 431 Gokarna 435 Kudremukh 440 24 Tariff `14,500-17,400 cottages Tariff `1,200 +meals, House ksTDC Bengaluru 431 Hampi/Hospet 436 Kukke Subrahmanya 440 +breakfast; TE Facilities nature walks pp Facilities Location Kumarakrupa Road Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary 432 Hassan 437 Lakkavalli 440 Restaurant, bar, swimming Dining area, nature walks, visit Tel 22259404-07 W kstdc.co pool, spa, safaris, treks, bird to Rani Channamma Zoo 150 `2,240 Bhagamandala 433 Honnemardu 437 Madikeri 441 Rooms Tariff watching, nature walks Facilities Restaurant, travel Bidar 433 Honaradu 437 Mangaluru 441 BENGALURU STD 080 help, internet, parking, TV BR Hills 433 Huli Vana 438 Mysuru 442 The Windflower Tusker Trail Bengaluru Marriott Hotel Brahmagiri 433 Jog Falls 438 Polibetta 443 Location Near the NP Whitefield Sheraton Grand Mangala Village, Gundlupet Tel Location 8th Road, Plot No. 75, Bangalore Hotel Chikkamagaluru 434 Kalaburagi 438 Shravanabelagola 444 236055/ 66 Bengaluru Tel 080- EPIP Area Tel 49435000 W Location 26/ 1, Dr Rajkumar Chitradurga 434 Kakkabe 438 Srirangapatna 444 40012200 Cell 09901446666/ marriott.com Rooms 388 Tariff Road, Malleswaram-Rajaji- 09900613333 W thewindflower. `8,700-18,000 +breakfast; TE nagar Tel 42521000 com Rooms 22, cottages 15 Facilities Restaurants, bar, W marriott.com Rooms 230 BADAMI STD 08357 Hotel Mayura Chalukya Melkamanahalli, Mangala, Tariff `15,930-16,990 + meals swimming pool, gym, spa Tariff `10,500- 69, Clarks Inn ksTDC Gundlupet Tel 233001 Cell Facilities Restaurant, bar, 500+breakfast; TE Facilities Location 1755, Veerpulakeshi Location Near Cave Temples, 09449597880, 09449599794, parking, swimming pool, spa, Hotel Ramanashree Restaurants, bar, swimming Circle, Badami Main Road Ramadurg Road Tel 220046 09449599779 W junglelodges. jungle walk Location 16 Raja Ram Mohan pool, gym, spa Tel 220150 Cell 09717170573, Cell 8970650024 W kstdc.co com Rooms 22 cottages Tariff 09650500634 W clarksinn.in Rooms 26 Tariff `1,000-2,750; `6,800-8,300 + meals + 2 Rooms 40 Tariff `3,500- TE Facilities Restaurant, beer safaris pp Facilities Rest- 5,500 +breakfast; TE bar, travel help, parking, TV aurant, bar, nature walks Facilities Restaurant, bar, room service, TV IN AIHOLE STD 08351 Country Club Hotel Mayura Yatri Nivas Location Mangala Village, 3 Hotel Badami Court Location Aihole Cell km off Bandipur Checkpost Location 17/ 2, Station Road 09591164103 Rooms 24 Tariff Tel 236090-91/ 94/ 96/ 37-38 Tel 220207, 220230-32 W `1,200-1,500 Facilities W countryclubholidays.com hotelbadamicourt.com Rooms Restaurant, Internet, TV Rooms 18 Tariff `4,000 + 28 Tariff `3,750-5,600 meals pp Facilities Restau- +breakfast Facilities BANDIPUR NP STD 08229 rant, nature walk, Internet Restaurant, swimming pool, Bandipur Safari Lodge JLR Tip Formerly Bush Betta travel desk, Internet Location Adjacent to the NP Wildlife Resort

430 Karnataka Karnataka 431 ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS hotels

St Mark’s Hotel The Leela Palace W eagleeyeholidays.in Rooms 09900292989 W theshivainter Jungle Lodges and Resorts Tel IN IRPU STD 08274 Location 4/ 1, St Mark’s Road Location 23, Kodihalli, Old 15 houses, 43 villas, cottages national.com Rooms 34 Tariff 080-40554055 Irpu Resorts homestay Tel 40019000 W stmarkshotel. Airport Road Tel 25211234 10 Tariff `3,500-6,500 +meals, `800-1,700; TE Facilities Basic Location Near Irpu Falls, amidst com Rooms 96 Tariff `7,495 W theleela.com Rooms 357 activities) Facilities accommodation, room service Nijaguna Resorts & Spa coffee plantations, Kurchi +breakfast Facilities Restau- Tariff `13,375-2,67,500 Restaurant, swimming pool, Location Nijaguna Park, K N Village, via Srimangala, South rants, bar, gym +breakfast; TE Facilities adventure activities, travel help The Krishna Regency Pura Road, Chamarajanagar Kodagu Cell 09448475222, Restaurants, bar, swimming Tip Glasshouses have their Location 8-9-285/ A-4 Tel 222463 Cell 09902984872 09980461418 Rooms 3 Tariff Taj MG Road pool, spa, gym own indoor swimming pools Swamy Towers, Udgir Road W nijagunaresorts.co.in Rooms `2,000 per person + meals pp Location 41/ 3, MG Road Tel The Oberoi Jhari Eco Stay Devi Colony Tel 221991 Cell 25 Tariff `4,500-8,500+ Facilities Home-cooked meals, 66604444 W tajhotels.com Location 37-39, Mahatma Location Datha Peetha Road 09341111136 Rooms 22 Tariff breakfast; TE Facilities plantation walks, garden Rooms 165 Tariff `11,350- Gandhi Road Tel 25585858 Athigundi Village Cell 098860 `850-1,500 Facilities Room Restaurant, bar, spa, pool, 20,350 +breakfast Facilities W oberoihotels.com Rooms 03791/ 09886787039 W jhari. service, TV gym, internet Ramcad Guest House Restaurants, bar, gym, spa 160 Tariff `12,500-1,25,000 in Rooms 8 Tariff `7,500; TE Location Near Irpu Falls, +breakfast; TE Facilities + meals, amenities Facilities BR HILLS STD 08226 BRAHMAGIRI WLS STD 08274 Ramcad Estate, Near Irpu The Capitol Restaurants, bar, swimming Buffet meals, nature walks Hotel Mayura Biligiri ksTDC Bethel homestay Temple, Kodagu Cell 094481 Location Opposite GPO, Raj pool, spa, gym Location Biligiri Hills Location 6 km from Irpu 44982 Rooms 5 cottages Bhavan Road Tel 22281234, BHAGAMANDALA STD 08272 Yalendur, Chamarajanagar Bethel Estates, Bhiruga Tariff `1,800 + meals pp 22267076 W thecapitolhotel. The Park Hotel Mayura Talakavery Tel 244111 Cell 08970650068 Village, Srimangala Facilities Trekking arranged com Rooms 140 Tariff `4,000- Location 14/ 7 Mahatma ksTDC W kstdc.co Rooms 16 Tariff W bethelehomestaycoorg.com on prior request, room service 12,000 +breakfast Facilities Gandhi Road Tel 25594666 Location Bhagamandala `999-2,240 Facilities Veg res- Rooms 4 cottages, 2 tree Restaurant, bar, pool, gym W theparkhotels.com Rooms Madikeri, Coorg Tel 08272- taurant, internet, attached bath houses Tariff `2,500 per Chikkamagaluru STD 08262 109 Tariff `6,000-11,000 243143 Cell 08970650030 person + meals Facilities Coffee Village Retreat The Chancery +breakfast; TE Facilities Rest- Rooms 18, dorms 2 (8/ 22 K Gudi Wilderness Camp JLR Dining area, trekking, river Location Kimmane Plantation Location 10/ 6, Lavelle Road aurants, bar, pool, spa, gym bedded) Tariff `1,344-1,500, Location In the forest, wading, safari, solar power, Billur PO, Mudigere Cell Tel 41188888 W chancery dorm `2,400 (8pax) / 4,400 Kyatha Devaranya Gudi, BRT generators, room service 09448182987, 09742896744 hotels.com Rooms 130 Tariff IN MEKEDATU (22pax), `300/ pp Facilities Wildlife Sanctuary, Dist Bengaluru Reservations Cell W coffeevillageretreat.com `4,500-14,000 +breakfast; TE Hotel Mayura Sangama Veg restaurant Chamaraja-nagar Tel 211886 09972362052, 09448201771 Rooms 5 Tariff `2,500-3,500 Facilities Restaurant, gym, ksTDC Cell 094495 99790, + meals pp Facilities Dining travel help, internet Location Kanakapura Tal BIDAR STD 08482 09379676618 W junglelodges. Coorg Guest House hall, indoor games, trekking, Ramanagar Tel 080-29760100 Blackbuck Resort JLR com Rooms 4, log huts 3, Location Main Road fishing, cycling, sightseeing The Elanza Hotel Cell 09483035533 W kstdc.co Location Vilaspur Taluk Cell tented cottages 8 Tariff Srimangala Cell 09901205450 Location 88/ 2, Richmond Rooms 14, 1 dorm (14 beds) 09740880119, 09611158198 `5,570-8,124 + meals pp W coorgguesthouse.com Devigiri Plantation homestay Road Tel 22233666 W the Tariff `1,456-1,680 dorm W junglelodges.com Rooms Facilities Elephant rides, Rooms 8, dorm 1 Tariff Location Near the state elanzahotels.com Rooms 43 `2,800 Facilities Restaurant, 18 cottages Tariff `5,200 jeep safari, trekking `1,500-3,500; TE, dorm `500 highway, 12 km from Tariff `5,500-6,600 +breakfast; travel help meals + activities pp Facilities Bengaluru Reservations pp Facilities Dining hall Chikkamagaluru, Hosa Road TE Facilities Restaurant, bar, Dining hall, nature walks, bird gym, internet, TV BHADRA WILDLIFE SANCTUARY watching, trekking, safaris, film STD 08262 Bengaluru Reservations Tel The Gateway Hotel Eagle Eye Holidays 080-40554055 Residency Road Location Between Bhadra and Location 66 Residency Road Muthodi Wildlife Sanctuary Hotel Shiva International Tel 66604545 W tajhotels.com Hoscodu Estate, via Sanga- Location Opp Akkamahadevi Rooms 98 Tariff `10,880- meshwarpet, Kadavanthi Tel College, Next to Reliance 14,270 +breakfast Facilities 252153/ 44 Cell 09341415588 Petrol Bunk, New Bus Stand Restaurants, cafe, pool, spa 09481252153/ 09880827762 Naubad Road, Nawadgeri Cell

Disclaimer Only a representative listing of hotels in each area has been given. The facilities listed may not be exhaustive. Tariff indicates the approx range (lowest to highest) of the rates prevailing at the time of going to press. The listings given here should not be construed as recommendations by the publisher

432 Karnataka Karnataka 433 ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS hotels

Arasinaguppe Cell 094488 Rooms 12 Tariff `2,128-2,799 Kali Wilderness DUBARE STD 08276 GOKARNA STD 08386 Kudle Beach View 17524, 07019243189 Facilities Restaurant, parking, Adventure Camp Coorg Dale Hotel Gokarna International Resort & Spa W devigiri.co.in Rooms tree Internet, TV Location Riverbank, Kogilban Location Ammangala Estate Location Near bus stand Location 365, Kudle Beach houses 1, bamboo house 2, Uttar Kannada Tel 230266 Cell Valnoor PO, Via Kushalnagar Main Road, Ganjigadde Tel 256056/9 Cell 081309 tents 6, dorms 1 Tariff `2,500- Hotel Mourya Delux Lodge 09449597871 Reservation Tel 267496 Cell 09880466496, Melinkeri Tel 256622, 257368 67666 W kudlebeachview.com 3,000 + meals pp, dorms `2,200 Location A Santhe Bagilu 080-40554055/ online W W homestaykodagu.com Cell 07899265368 Rooms 39 Rooms 16 Tariff `5,500-8,700 + meals pp Facilities Dining Road Tel 224448 Cell 087222 junglelodges.com Rooms 14, Rooms 2 Tariff `3,000 + Tariff `700-1,800; TE Faci- + breakfast Facilities Restau- hall, games, common TV 17277 W mouryalodge.in tents 11, dorm 1 (10 bedded) breakfast Facilities Home lities Separate veg and non- rants, swimming pool, Ayur- Rooms 25 Tariff `500-900 Tariff `4,503-6,608, tent cooked meals, plantation veg restaurants, room service vedic massage centre, yoga Honeyvale Estate HERITAGE Facilities Basic accom- `3,781-5,369, dorm `1,805- walks, fishing, birdwatching studio, internet, TV homestay modation, attached bath, TV 2,360 pp Facilities Dining Hall, Hotel Om International Location Amidst coffee coracle ride, safari, internet Dubare Elephant Camp JLR Location Taramakki Road, ON OM BEACH plantation, Javali PO, Mudigere Hotel Naveen Regency Location Nanjarayapatna PO, Near KSRTC Bus Stand, Namaste Café Taluk Cell 09449825005 Location 7/ 3B, NH4 Bypass Kulgi Nature Education Kushalnagar, Somwarpet Tal Ganjigadde Tel 256445 Cell Location Om Beach Tel W honeyvale.com Rooms 5 Near RTO Tel 230052 Camp frh Tel 080-40554055 Cell 094495 09480603786 W hotelominter 257141 Cell 09886466565 Tariff `2,800 + meals pp Faci- Cell 07406667669 W naveen Location Inside the KTR, Kulgi 97876 W junglelodges.com national.business.site Rooms W namastegokarna.com lities Dining hall, common TV regency.com Rooms 37 Tariff Tel 08284-231585 W kaliti Rooms 18 cottages Tariff 20 Tariff `2,464-4,130 +break- Rooms 25 Tariff `1,000-4,000; `1,455-3,540 Facilities gerdandeli.com Rooms 10 `5,393-6,160 + meals pp Faci- fast Facilities internet, TV TE Facilities Restaurant Nature Nirvana homestay Restaurant, travel help tents, 8 cottages, 1 dorm (15 lities Trekking, boating, bird- Location Bynekhan and bedded)Tariff tents `1,200, watching Bengaluru Reser- Nimmu House Paradise Holiday Cottages EL Dorado Plantations, DANDELI-ANSHI TR STD 08242 cottages `1,500, dorm `3,000 vations Tel 080-40554055 Location Mani Bhadra Road Location Kudle Beach Road Baba Budanagiri Hills Anshi Evergreen Camp frh Facilities Cook available Tip Day Visit Time 8.30-11am; Cell 09152762547 W nimmu Om Beach Tel 257943 Cell W naturenirvana.com Rooms Location Inside the KTR, Tariff `1,499 + breakfast, lunch, house.in Rooms 10 Tariff 09060649490 W paradise 5, dorms 1 (10 bedded) Tariff Anshi-Ulavi Road, Anshi Tel Panther Jungle Stay elephant interpretation, nature `1,000-3,000 Facilities Res- holidaycottages.com Rooms 8 `3,500 + meals pp, dorm 08284-231585 W kalitiger Location Kogilban Road walk pp; Elephant bathing and taurant, internet, parking, TV Tariff `1,500-2,400 Facilities `3,000 +meals pp Facilities dandeli.com Rooms 5 tents, 3 Badakanshirada, Haliyal feeding `885 + breakfast pp Meals on request, internet Dining area, coracle rides, cottages, 1 dorm (15 bedded) Karwar Cell 09886911255 ON KUDLE BEACH trekking, fishing, nature walks, Tariff `1,200 tents, `1,500 W pantherstaydandeli.com Veerabhoomi Tourist Village Gokarna International Beach SwaSwara Resort plantation tour, birdwatching, cottages, `3,000 per dorm; TE Rooms 2, dorms 3 (24 Location Kudlur village Resort Location Donibail, Om Beach TV Mangaluru Reservations bedded), camping tents 20 Kudige Road, Kushalnagar Tel Location Near Uma Cell 09513320363 W cghearth. Tel 0824-4279152 Cell Bison River Resort Tariff `2,000, dorm `1,800, 278213 Cell 09448078113 Maheshwar Temple, Kudle com Rooms 24 villas Tariff 09844042152 Location Riverside, Village camping tents `1,400 + meals W coorgveerabhoomi.com Beach Tel 257843 Cell `76,000 +meals for 3N/ 4D ILVA, PO Ganeshgudi, Uttar pp Facilities Restaurant, water Rooms 28 Tariff `2,000-6,000 08884741005 Rooms 39 Tariff Facilities Restaurants, Ayur- The Serai Chikmagalur spa Kannada near Dandeli Tel activities, adventure activities + breakfast Facilities Restau- `2,800-3,500 Facilities Res- veda centre, yoga, swimming Location Beyond Amber 08383-256356 Cell 099166 rant, spa, pool, DJ music taurant, Ayurvedic massage pool, internet, birding Kochi Valley Residential School 39005 Rooms 33 cottages DHARAMSTHALA STD 08256 Mugthihalli PO, KM Road Cell Tariff `6,000 +meals Facilities Gayatri Guest House 09686445488-91 W theserai.in Restaurant, bar, eco-tourism Location Behind the Temple Rooms 29 Tariff `24,320- activities, rafting, water sports, W shridharmasthala.org Rooms 78,720 + breakfast Facilities adventure rope activities 104 Tariff `200-300 Facilities Restaurant, café, bar, pool, Lodging, common bath spa, gym Bengaluru Reserva- Dandeli Jungle Camp Reservations Shri Kshetra tions Tel 080-40012200 and Resort Dharmasthala Tel 266666 Location Dandeli-Joida CHITRADURGA STD 08194 Road Pradhani Village Sannidhi Guest House Hotel Mauya Durg, Cell 09449244567, 094487 Location Near Bahubali Hill Chitradurga ksTDC 97270 Rooms 15 cottages W shridharmasthala.org Location Next to Maharani Tariff `1,750 all incl. pp Rooms 21 Tariff `1,500-2,000 College, Opp Fort Tel 234342 Facilities Restaurant, Facilities Lodging only Cell 08970656600 W kstdc.co adventure activities Reservations Tel 266666

434 Karnataka Karnataka 435 ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS hotels

Reservations Tel 0484- Vishnu Regency Kishkinda Heritage Resort 08970650025 W kstdc.co The Goan Corner Tel 260332 W malliger 4261751 Cell 0974407009 Location Near Chenna Location Near Broken Bridge Rooms 30, dorms 6 (10 bedd- Location Virupapura Gaddi esidency.com Rooms 42 Kesava Temple, Kempe Gowda Cross, Sanapur, Anegundi ed) Tariff `2,464-5,300 Faci- Hampi Island Tel 287002/ 94 Tariff `2,100-2,650 + IN KUMTA STD 08386 Road Tel 223011 Cell Gangavathi Taluk Tel 287037 lities Restaurant, internet, TV (both ringing) Cell 094482 breakfast; TE Facilities Veg Nirvana Nature 09448655546 W vishnu Cell 09449144167 W kishkinda 12621 W thegoancorner. restaurant, TV Location 70B, Nirvana Beach regency.in Rooms 20 Tariff heritage.com Rooms 29 Tariff Heritage Resort Hampi wordpress.com Rooms dorm Road Hubbanageri/ Kagal `800-1,200 Facilities Veg `3,400-5,600 Facilities Res- Location 48/ C & 4B Tariff On request Facilities Southern Star Hassan village Cell 07742735052 W restaurant, travel help, TV taurant, bar, waterpark, internet Hosamalapanagudi Cell Restaurant, crash mats for Location Near Guru Theatre nirvananature.com Rooms 10 09845602838 W indoasia- Bouldering on rent per day, BM Road Tel 251816- Tariff `999 Facilities HAMPI/ HOSPET STD 08394 IN HOSPET STD 08394 hotels.com Rooms 40 Tariff transportation organized 17 W hotelsouthernstar.com Restaurant, room service Hampi’s Boulders Resort Hotel Hampi International `6,600-11,930 + breakfast; TE Rooms 47 Tariff `3,000-5,000 Location Narayanpet Location Station Road Facilities Restaurant, pool, HASSAN STD 08172 Facilities Restaurant, internet IN YANA STD 08388 Bandiharlapur Post, Koppal Hospet Tel 222067-222070 games, spa Bengaluru Reser- Hotel Hassan Ashok Shree Sai Riverview Dist Cell 09448034202 W Cell 092343161111 W hotel vations Tel 080-42019557 Location Opp DC office, PB HONNEMARDU STD 08183 Jungle Resort hampisboulders.com Rooms hampiinternational.com Rooms No. 121, BM Road Tel 268734- The Adventurers Location 38 kms from Yana, 16 cottages Tariff `7,691- 54 Tariff `2,500-7,000 +break- IN VIJAYANAGARA 36 Cell 08884454900 Location In the forest, Honne- Ramanuguli, Ankola Tal Tel 17,972 + breakfast Facilities fast; TE Facilities Restaurant, STD 08394 W hassanashok.com Rooms mardu, Sagar Tal Rooms 276874 Cell 09591631900 Nature walks, trekking, safaris bar, internet, room service, TV Hotel Mayura Vijayanagara 37 Tariff `5,900-14,720 + tents (12-15 pax) Tariff `4,000 W sairesorts.in Rooms 14 Location Opp Govardhan breakfast; TE Facilities Res- + meals, activities pp/ 2D Tariff `2,800 + meals, some Hyatt Place Hampi Hotel Malligi Garden Tungabhadra Dam taurant, bar, pool, internet, spa Facilities trekking, canoeing, water activities, pp Facilities Location Vidyanagar Location Near Laxmi Talkies Ballari, via Hospet Tel 259270 coracle rides Bengaluru Speed boat rides, water Township, Toranagallu, Bellary Jambunatha Road, Hospet Tel Cell 08970650002 W kstdc.co Hoysala Village Resort Reservations Cell 09448485508 scooter, rock climbing, trekking Tel 08395-661234 W hyatt. 228101-08 W malligihotels. Rooms 20 Tariff `999-1,500 + Location Survey No 357 Note: Foam mats are provided com Rooms 115 Tariff `4,037- com Rooms 160 Tariff `2,800- breakfast; TE Facilities Handikere Village, JH Kere for sleeping HALEBID-BELUR STD 08177 9,000 +breakfast; TE Facilities 3,600 Facilities Restaurants, Restaurant, beer bar, internet PO, Belur Road Bengaluru Mayura Shanthala ksTDC Restaurant, bar, pool, spa, gym bar, swimming pool, gym, spa Reservations Tel 080- HORANADU STD 08263 Location Opp Hoysala IN VIRUPAPURA GADDA 22340166 Cell 09591077400 Bhadra Nivasa Lodge Aishwarya Temple Tel 273224 Rahul Guest House IN KAMALAPURA STD 08533 W hoysalavillageresorts.com Location Near the temple Cell 08970654600 W kstdc.co Location Opp Govt Bus STD 08394 Shanthi Guest House Rooms 59 Tariff `13,500- W shrikshetrahorandu.com Rooms 5 Tariff `999-1,900 Stand, PO Hampi Tel 241648 Clarks Inn Hampi Location Virupapura Gadda 19,000 + meals Facilities Rooms 150 Tariff `500- Facilities Restaurant, guide Cell 09449349768 Rooms 2 Location HPC Road, Opp ASI Tel 287038 Cell 09449260162 Restaurant, bar, pool, spa 3,000 Facilities Lodging arranged, room service, TV Tariff `800-1,000 Facilities Museum, Kamalapura Tel W shanthihampi.com Rooms only, attached bath, hot Travel help, room service, TV 241245 W clarksinn.in Rooms 24 Tariff `1,624-2,100 Mallige Residency water, TV Reservations Tel IN BELUR STD 08177 38 Tariff `4,000 +breakfast; TE Facilities Restaurant, travel Location 266, High School 08263-269615 Cell Mayura Velapuri ksTDC Uramma Cultural Residency Facilities Restaurant, Internet help, internet, room service Field Road, RK Puram 09845704614 Location Near KG Circle Location Anegundi Village Temple Road Tel 222209 Cell Cell 09448284658 W uramma Evolve Back Kamalapura 08970650026 W kstdc.co heritagehomes.com Rooms 7 Palace Hampi Rooms 14, dorms 2 (20 beds Tariff `3,200-4,500 + breakfast Location Hallikere Village each) Tariff `1,500-3,500; TE, Facilities Dining area, Internet Kamalapura Post Cell 083942 dorm `4,000; TE Facilities 94700 W evolveback.com Restaurant, bar, TV IN ANEGUNDI STD 08533 Rooms 40 Tariff `39,000- Hotel Sarvesh 59,000 + two meals Facilities Sumukha Residency Location Near Bus Stand Restaurants, pool, spa, internet Location Opp Govt Hospital Gangavathi, Dist Koppal Tel Temple Road Tel 222181 230912 Cell 09480488308 Hotel Mayura Rooms 27, dorms 2 (5 bed) W kishkindaheritage.com Bhuvaneshwari ksTDC Tariff `750-850 dorm `1,000 Rooms 30 Tariff `616-1,970 Location Opp petrol pump Facilities Basic accom- +breakfast; TE Facilities Kamalapura, Hospet-Ganga- modation, attached bath, TV Restaurant, bar, internet, TV wati Road Tel 241574 Cell

436 Karnataka Karnataka 437 ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS hotels

HULI VANA 080-25127000, 46184444 W Kalaburagi STD 08472 tea/ coffee Facilities In house Rooms 25 Tariff `2,200-3,000 `6,000-8,000 + breakfast; TE Huli Vana Rainforest Retreat evolveback.com Rooms 12 Hotel Citrus Gulbarga restaurant, food on request +breakfast; TE Facilities Res- Facilities Restaurant, pool Location Survey No 23 jacuzzi huts, 21 pool huts, 4 Location Gold Hub Mall, 3rd taurant, pool, gym, internet Hodchalli, Hanbal Hobli pool reserves Tariff `30,600- Floor, Opp KBN Hospital Tel The Tamara Coorg YOGA IN HANKON STD 08382 Sakleshpur Tal W hulivana. 36,900+meals, nature activities 241919 Cell 09606070807 Location Kabbinakad Estate IN DEVBAGH STD 08382 Camp Riveredge Paradise com Rooms 2 villas (6-7 Facilities Restaurant, bar, W citrushotels.com Rooms 25 Napoklu Nad, Yavakapadi Devbagh Beach Resort JLR Location Near Kali River people each) Tariff `3,500 + pool, spacoracle rides, boat/ Tariff `4,000-6,500 +breakfast; Village Tel 238000 Cell 097398 Location Devbagh Beach Hankon, Karwar Dist W meals pp Facilities Dining vehicle safari, nature walks TE Facilities Restaurant, bar, 33939 W thetamara.com Tariwada, Post Shivagad Tel campparadise.info Rooms 4 area, mini library, nature walks, internet, room service, TV Rooms 56 cottages Tariff 221603 Cell 09449599778 cabins, 10 tents, dorm (10-12 trekking Bengaluru Reser- Kabini River Lodge JLR `14,000-18,000 + breakfast; TE W junglelodges.com Rooms pax) Tariff `3,000 + meals, vations Cell 09108671755 Location Karapura, PO Hotel Kadamba Residency Facilities Restaurant, bar, inter- 20 cottages Tariff `6,850 + trekking, kayaking, canoeing pp, Tip Dome tents (Oct-May), Nissana Belthur, HD Kote Taluk Location Jawali Complex net, meditation, yoga, Rudraksh meals, boat rides, forest entry tents & dorm `2,000 + meals, with meals and sleeping bags. Cell 09449599754 Bengaluru Supermarket Tel 241111-15 tour Bengaluru Reservations charges pp Facilities Dining trekking, kayaking/canoeing pp Tariff `2,500 + meals pp Reservations Tel 080- Rooms 18 Tariff `600-1,600; Tel 080-71077700 area, water sports, nature Facilities Rafting, kayaking, 40554055 W junglelodges.com TE Facilities Restaurant, TV walks, fisherman village visit, canoeing, tubing for children, JOG FALLS STD 08186 Rooms 15, cottages 10, tented KARWAR STD 08382 Tip Online booking river crossing, rock climbing Hotel Mayura Gerusoppa cottages 6, dorm 1 (10 bedded) KAKKABE STD 08272 Bhadra Hotel Note: Cabins have attached Location Opp the falls, Jog Tariff `8,885-15,694 + meals, 1 Chingaara Estate Location Near Kali Bridge ON KURUMGAD ISLAND bath, Tents have detached Falls, Sagar Taluk, Shimoga boat safari, 1 jungle safari pp, Guest House NH17, Uttar Kannada Dist Tel Cintacor Island Resort toilets (12-15 m from tent) Dist Cell 09480595732 dorm `5,095-6,501 + meals, 1 Location PO Yavakapadi 225212-13 Rooms 38 Tariff Location Kurumgad Island W kstdc.co Rooms 10, dorm 1 boat safari pp Facilities Kabbinakad Tel 238633 Cell `3,500-5,500; TE Facilities Cell 09487533640 W cintacor KEMMANNAGUNDI STD 08261 (10 beds) Tariff `2,358-4,500, Restaurant, safaris, coracle 09591821339 W chingaara. Restaurant, internet islandresort.com Rooms 15 Dattatri Bhavan dorm bed `300 Facilities Res- boat ride, Ayurvedic massage com Rooms 9 Tariff `1,700- cottages Tariff `12,500-20,000 Location On a hill Rooms 4 taurant, internet, hot water, TV 2,700 Facilities Dining hall, Citrus Hotels Karwar +breakfast, boat transfer; TE Tariff `2,000; TE Facilities The Bison Resort birdwatching, nature walks, Location Near Canara Bank Facilities Restaurants, pool, Restaurant, trekking, hot water Sharavathi Adventure Location Gundathur, N sightseeing, trekking, tennis Kaikani Road Tel 237000 spa, fishing, dolphin sighting Reservations See Horticulture Camp, Jog JLR Belathur PO Kabini, HD Kote W citrushotels.com Rooms 31 cruise Ooty Reservations Tel Dept Guest House below Location 6 kms from Jog Taluk W thebisonresort.com Coorg Coffee Country Tariff `2,800-3,200 +breakfast; 0423-2244000 Falls, Kargal-Jog Falls, Sagar Rooms 12 tents, 2 rustic Location Palace Road TE Facilities Restaurant, bar, Horticultural Department Tal Tel 213399 Cell 094495 machans, 1 suite cottage Kakkabe Cell 09686401945 spa, internet, room service, TV IN SADASHIVGAD Guest House 99784 W junglelodges.com Tariff `12,004-23,790 +meals, W coorgcoffeecountry.com Sterling Karwar – Resorts Location In the Forest Rooms Rooms 18 cottages Tariff 1 coracle boat ride, small trek Rooms 16 Tariff `3,200- Hotel West End Location NH66, Toll Naka 30, dorms 3 (6 bedded) Tariff `4,000 Facilities Nature walks, to the tribal village Facilities 4,250 + meals Facilities Location 604, Dr Pikle Road Sadashivgad Tel 266000 Cell `1,500-2,000; TE, dorm `2,000 treks, boating, kayaking Swimming pool, trekking, bird- Dining hut, trekking, estate Tel 227712 Cell 09482403730 09003302727 W sterling Facilities Restaurant, trekking, watching, fishing, boating Ben- walks, games, campfire, W hotelwestendkarwar.com holidays.com Rooms 50 Tariff sightseeing, hot water Stay@Matthuga galuru Reservations Tel 080- hot water Homely Retreat 41278708 Cell 7022155961 Location Near the falls, BH Honey Valley Road, Talavata Cell 098807 The Serai Kabini Location Amidst plantations 99975 W matthuga.in Rooms Location Adjacent to Kabini Yavakapadi PO Tel 238339 28 Tariff `2,400-3,800 Faci- River Lodge, Survey No 60/ 1 Cell 08197444939 W honey lities Veg restaurant, swim- Nishana, Karapura Village Cell valleyindia.in Rooms 18 Tariff ming pool, games, trekking, 09945602305 W theserai.in 650-3,950 Facilities Dining Rooms 20 Tariff `41,900- hall, nature walks, trekking KABINI STD 08228 64,480 + meals/ 2N; TE Faci- Evolve Back Kuruba lities Restaurant, pool, gym, Palace Estate Safari Lodge safari, boat rides, nature walks, Location Kakkabe Post Cell Location Bheeramballi Village kayaking, Bengaluru Reser- 09483198446 W palaceestate. and Post, HD Kote Taluk vations Tel 080-40012200 co.in Rooms 8 Tariff `3,600- Bengaluru Reservations Tel Cell 09900063960 4,300 + breakfast, dinner and

438 Karnataka Karnataka 439 ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS hotels

Kemmannagundi Reservat- Tariff `650-1,700 Facilities Facilities Restaurant, Facilities Dining area, water ming pool, Ayurvedic massage, Polaycad Bungalow ions Special Officer, Krishna Veg restaurant, dining hall swimming pool, hot water sports, wildlife film, boating Bengaluru Reservations Tel Location Mumad Road Rajendra Hill Station, PO Bengaluru Reservations Tel 080-25232329, 42019557 Ammathi Tel 298272 Cell Kemmannagundi Bengaluru Hotel Mookambika Palace KUKKE SUBRAMANYA STD 08257 080-40554055 Cell 09448606066 W polaycad.com Reservations Director of Location Car Street, Kundapur Anugraha Lodge 09449599769 Golden Mist Plantation & Rooms 4 Tariff `3,750-5,250 Horticulture, Lalbagh Tel 258560 Cell 09916682455 Location Kukke Subrah- Resorts treks + breakfast Facilities Food on Bengaluru Tel 080-26579231 W mookambikahotels.com manya, Kadaba Taluk Cell MADIKERI STD 08272 Location 10 km from Madikeri request — Coorg cuisine only Rooms 36 Tariff `2,239-4,000 09448549671, 08453502400 Cauvery Nisargadhama Village Galibeedu Tel 265629 Ozone Valley + breakfast Facilities Veg W anugrahakukke.in Rooms Location 2 kms from Kushal- Cell 09448903670 W golden- Rainforest Retreat Location 5 km from town restaurant, internet 50 Tariff `700-1,600 Facilities nagar on an island off mist.net Rooms 3, cottages 2 ECO-RETREAT tents Denton Khan Estate Cell Lodging, attached bath Madikeri-Mysuru Road Tel Tariff `3,000 + all meals pp Location Mojo Plantation 09448971207, 09448727717 Jyothis Residency 228305 Rooms 10 cottages, 1 Facilities Home-cooked Kaloor, PO Galibeedu Tel W ozonevalley.com Rooms 4 Location 27/ 5, Beside Sri Hotel Mayura Residency dorm (10 bedded) Tariff meals, trekking, nature walk, 265636/ 38 Cell 09481501623 cottages Tariff `2,000, + meals Mookambika Temple, Kunda- Location Kukke Subrah- `1,000 dorm `2,400 Facilities plantation tour W rainforestour.com Rooms 4 pp Facilities Restaurant, pool, pura Tel 258552 Cell 094807 manya, Kadaba Taluk, Near Meals on request Reser- cottages, 3 tents Tariff `3,000- trekking, nature walks, TV 21366 W jyothisresidency.com Kashikatte Tel 281336 Cell vations Deputy Conservator of Heritage Resort ayurveda 4,000, tents `2,000+breakfast; Rooms 72 Tariff `2,799-5,000 09152776665 Rooms 44 Tariff Forests, Madikeri Location Valley-facing, 50/ 3 TE) Facilities Dining hall, Raj Bhavan + breakfast Facilities Veg res- `970-2,454 Facilities Lodging, 1st Monnangeri Village organic vegetables and fruits, Location On a hill, Krishna taurant, internet, room service attached bath Club Mahindra Kodagu Galibeedu Tel 265794-96 W solar lighting, birding Rajendra Hill Station Rooms 8 Valley spa treks rafting indoasia-hotels.com Rooms 32 Tariff `1,500-2,500; TE Faci- KUDREMUKH STD 08263 Hotel Seshanaag Aashraya Location Galibeedu Road Tariff `12,600-14,000 + all Shanti Estate Bungalow lities Canteen, attached bath, Bhagawathi Nature Camp Location Near the Temple Kalakeri Nidugane Village Tel meals Facilities Restaurant, Location Main Road, 2.5 km hot water Reservations See Location Inside Kudremukh Car Street, opp new KSRTC 221114 W clubmahindra.com bar, pool, Ayurveda centre from Madikeri Tel 223690 Cell Horticulture Dept Guest House NP, Mudigere, Chikamagalur bus stand Tel 281215/ 19 Cell Rooms 220 Tariff `12,000- Bengaluru Reservations See 09845505200 Rooms 1 above Cell 09449597875 W jungle 09448091295 W sheshnaag 20,000 Facilities Restaurant, Coorg International alongside bungalow, 1 cottage, 1 old Tip Mainly for VIP Guests lodges.com Rooms 12 cot- aashraya.com Rooms 30 bar, pool, activity centre, spa, style house Tariff `500-1,000 tages, dorms 1 (14 bedded) Tariff `800-1,792 Facilities gym, rafting, trekking, internet Mayura Valley View ksTDC pp Credit Cards NA Facilities The Last Resort Tariff ` 1,711-2,242, dorm Lodging, attached baths Location Opp All India Food on request, sightseeing Location Glendale Farms `1,475 + meals, forest entry Coorg International Radio Raja’s Seat Tel 228387 arranged, hot water Ballavara, Kallathipura PO charges, activities Facilities Temple Guesthouse Location Near St Joseph’s Cell 08970650028 Tip An old style house with a Tarikere Taluk Cell 078290 Restaurant Bengaluru Reser- Location Near Kukke Subrah- Convent, Convent Road Tel W kstdc.co Rooms 35, bath outside 26617 W thelastresort.in vations Tel 080-40554055 manya temple Tel 08257- 228071-72 W indoasiahotels. dorms 1 (10 bedded) Tariff Rooms 20 Tariff `2,300 + 281265/ 224 W karnatakaone. com Rooms 27 Tariff `4,800– `3,068-6,136, dorm `8,000- MANGALURU STD 0824 meals pp Facilities Dining hall, In Kalasa gov.in Facilities Basic accom- 11,500 + breakfast; TE Faci- 10,000 Facilities Restaurant, Ginger Mangalore power back-up Bynekaadu modation, food provided in the lities Restaurant, bar, swim- bar, TV Location Near Infosys, Kottara Location Kalasa, Mudigere temple as Prasadam In Karthi- Valley of the Birds Taluk Cell 09741521777 keya Kumarakrupa Rooms 66 Location GM Farm, Thanige- W bynekaadu.com Rooms 12 Tariff `50/ sgl; `100/ dbl; byle PO, Tarikere Taluk Cell dorms Tariff `2,800-3,500 + `160/ 3pax In Skandakrupa 09481193152 W valleyofbirds. meals; TE pp Facilities Res- Rooms 42 Tariff `100/ dbl in Rooms 2 Tariff `2,500 per taurant, trekking, bonfire person + meals Facilities LAKKAVALLI STD 08261 Dining hall, power back-up The Silent Valley Resort River Tern Lodge JLR Location Thodlu, Kalasa- Location Behind Ranganatha- KOLLUR STD 08254 Kudremukh Road Tel 08263- swamy Temple, Bhadra Project Bhagirthi Tourist Home Cell 09008444436 W green Cell 09449599780 W jungle Location Gopalkrishna Temple planetresorts.com Rooms 30, lodges.com Rooms 15 cot- Road Tel 258290 Cell 094492 dorms 1 (30 bedded) Tariff tages, 8 log huts Tariff `7,400 69420 W bhagirathitourist `4,400-6,000, dorm + meals, jeep safari to Bhadra home.com Rooms 27 `1,750+meals; TE pp TR, forest entry charge pp

440 Karnataka Karnataka 441 ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS hotels

Chowki Junction Tel 6663333 Rooms 84 Tariff `7,000-7,499 Nilgiri Road, Opp Woodland IN BRINDAVAN GARDENS Tip Formerly The Bungalows activities; TE, full bungalow W gingerhotels.com Rooms 79 +breakfast; TE Facilities Res- Theatre Cell 09739786223 STD 08236 by Tata Coffee, now under the 25,000-30,000 + breakfast, Tariff `2,855 +breakfast Faci- taurant, gym, spa, internet, TV W hotelmbinternational.co Mayura Kauvery ksTDC Taj Management activities; TE Facilities Home lities Restaurant, gym, internet Rooms 73 Tariff `2,000-4,000 Location Inside KRS cooked food with a butler The Verda Saffron + breakfast Facilities Res- (Brindavan Gardens), Krishna The Cottage service, cycling, tea factory Hotel Poonja International Location GHS Road, Near taurant, travel help, internet, Raja Sagara, Srirangapatna Location Near Tata Coffee visit, nature walks Location KS Rao Road, Janatha Bazaar Hampankatta room service, TV Taluk, Dist Mandya Tel 297189 Head Office, Polibetta, South Tip With Tata Coffee Ltd Hampankatta Tel 2440171-86 Tel 4255542 Cell 091080 Cell 08970650022 W kstdc.co Coorg Cell 09886314567 Cell 09141955527 W hotel 25400 W theverda.com Hotel Southern Star Mysuru Rooms 20 Tariff `1,300-2,800 W thecottagecoorg.com IN MADAPUR STD 08276 poonjainternational.com Rooms Rooms 42 Tariff `4,500-7,400 Location 14-15, Vinobha Road Facilities Restaurant, beer bar Rooms 3 Tariff `3,500 + Bel Home 104 Tariff `1,699-5,999 + +breakfast; TE Facilities Cell 09448067750 W hotel breakfast Facilities Food on Location Bellarimotte Estate breakfast; TE Facilities Restaurant, internet, TV ssouthernstar.com Rooms 105 Royal Orchid request, estate tour, sight- Madapura PO, North Coorg Restaurant, bar, beauty parlour Tariff `6,000-12,000 + Brindavan Gardens seeing organised, bonfire Cell 094488 73543, MYSURU STD 0821 breakfast; TE Facilities Location Facing KRS, Krishna 08762061135 W belhome.co Phalguni River Lodge JLR Country Inn & Suites by Restaurant, bar, swimming Raja Sagara Cell 099020 The Porcupine Castle Rooms 2, wooden cabins 2 Location 10 kms from Radisson Mysore pool, gym, spa, travel desk 00153 W royalorchidhotels. Location Hanchikad, Pollibetta Tariff 3,500 + breakfast Mangaluru, Pilikula Nisarga- Location Plot No 345/ A com Rooms 24 Tariff `6,000- W porcupinecastle.com Facilities Dining hall, food dhama, Moodushedda Village Hebbal Industrial Area, Near Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel 9,500 +breakfast; TE Facilities Rooms 23 chalets, 2 tree provided on request, estate Tel 2263633 Cell 094831 Infosys Campus Tel 6642000 heritage Restaurant, café, bar, house, 2 wood houses Tariff tour, bird-watching, trekking 12769 W junglelodges.com W countryinns.com Rooms Location Lalithmahal Nagar swimming pool, spa, Internet `5,500-7,500 + breakfast; TE Rooms 21 Tariff `2,500-4,500 130 Tariff `4,000-7,500 + Siddhartha Layout Tel Facilities Restaurant, swim- Coorg River Valley +breakfast Facilities Kitchen, breakfast; TE Facilities 2526100, 2470222 W lalitha POLIBETTA STD 08272 ming pool, plantation tours, Location Chandra-prasad bar, Ayurvedic massage Restaurant, bar, swimming mahalpalace.co.in Rooms 54 Ama Plantation # nature walks, room service, Estate, Nandimotte, Madapura centre, visit to artisan’s village/ pool, gym, spa Tariff `4,000-35,000 + break- Trails Coorgs travel help Bengaluru PO, North Coorg Cell biological park fast; TE Facilities Restaurant, Location Pollibetta Estate Reservations Tel 080- 09448108154, 08762033604 Ginger Mysore bar, swimming pool, room Tata coffee ltd, Pollibetta Main 41660805 Cell 09008466808 W coorgrivervalley.in Rooms Summer Sands Location Near Nazarabad service, TV, travel help Road Tel 080-235707613 W 10 Tariff `2,000-2,500 + Beach Resort Police Station, Nazarabad amaplantationtrails.com In Hudikeri breakfast Facilities Food Location Near beach, Mohalla, Vasant Mahal Road The Green Hotel ECO-heritage Rooms 6 bungalows Tariff Glenlorna Estate provided, pool, estate tour, Chotamangalore, Ullal Tel Tel 6633333 W gingerhotels. Location Chittaranjan Palace `7,500-15,000 + breakfast Location Hudikeri Post birdwatching, trekking, fishing 2467690-92 Reservations com Rooms 98 Tariff `2,399 + 2270 Vinobha Road, Jaya- activities Facilities Meals Hudikeri Bengaluru Tel 080- 08861373737 W summer breakfast; TE Facilities lakshmipuram Tel 4255000-02 provided, plantation tour, 23570761 Cell 09916073156 SHIVANASAMUDRAM STD 08231 sands.in Rooms 90 Tariff Restaurant, gym, spa, travel W greenhotelindia.com Rooms guided coffee/ tea picking, W amaplantationtrails.com Georgia Sunshine Village `6,270-23,260 +breakfast, desk, internet 31 Tariff `2440-6,797 + birdwatching Bengaluru Res- Rooms 5 (15 pax) Tariff Homestay dinner Facilities Restaurant, breakfast; TE Facilities ervations Tel 080-23570761 `7,000-10,000 + breakfast, Location On Shimshapura bar, pool, spa, club house Hotel Mayura Hoysala Restaurant, bar, bakery, coffee ksTDC shop, travel help The Gateway Hotel Location 2, Jhansi Laxmi Bai Old Port Road Road Tel 2426160 Cell The Windflower Spa & Location Near State Bank of 08970650014 W kstdc.co Resorts India Circle, Old Port Road Rooms 50, dorms 2 (16 and Location Behind Mysuru Race Tel 6660420 W tajhotels.com 20 bedded) Tariff `1,100- Course, Maharana Pratap Rooms 96 Tariff `5,500- 2,300; TE dorm `3,200-4,000; Road, Nazarbad Tel 2522500 18,000 +breakfast; TE Faci- TE Facilities Restaurant, bar, W thewindflower.com Rooms lities Restaurant, internet, travel help, internet parking, TV 39 Tariff `7,970-25,240 + breakfast Facilities Res- The Ocean Pearl Hotel MB International taurant, bar, swimming pool, Location Navabharath Circle Palace Side gym, spa, yoga. travel help, KS Rao Road, Kodailbail Tel Location 43/ A, BN Road room service, laundry, car 2413800 W theoceanpearl.in Hardinge Circle, Bengaluru- rental, parking, TV

442 Karnataka Karnataka 443 ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS hotels

Road, PO Hebbani, Malavalli Reservations Evovle Back Tel 250210 Cell 09448503400 The Cute-A Village Resort area, trekking, plantation tour, birdwatching, herbal garden Tal, Dist Mandya Tel 247646, Resort Tel 080-46184444 Rooms 18 Tariff `1,500-2,000 Location Bommuru Agrahara rope activities, village tour, tour Bengaluru Reservations 247783 Cell 09845754661, Facilities Kitchen, meals on Road, Srirangapatna KRS games, fishing, common bath Tel 080-40554055 09448110660 W georgiasun Sand Banks request, kids play area, Road, near Ranganathittu Bird shine.com Rooms 10 Tariff Location Polycad Estate parking, bath attached Sanctuary, Mandya Cell Kolavara Heritage Homestay UDUPI STD 0820 `7,780-14,310 +meals, fun Ammathi, South Coorg 09980858100, 08088237045, Location Thirthahalli Tel Samanvay Boutique fishing, bonfire and morning Cell 09448588150, Guru Prasad Lodge 08088237046 W thecute.in 254722, 202210 Cell 094803 Hotel trek Facilities Dining area, 0944976853 Location Opp Sringeri Mutt Rooms 20 Tariff `3,240-9,655 30033 W kolavaraheritage.com Location Near Govinda swimming pool W bestcoorghomestay.com Subhash Street Tel 250556 Facilities Restaurant, Rooms 7 Tariff `2,750 +meals Kalyana Mantapa, Kinnimulki Rooms 4 Tariff `3,500-4,000 Cell 09743030556 Rooms 10 swimming pool, spa pp Facilities Dining area, Main Road Tel 2500250 Cell Hotel Mayura Bharachukki +breakfast Facilities Treks, W sringerilodgeguruprasad. indoor games, nature walks, 09448011111 W samanvay Shivanasamudra ksTDC games, trip to coffee estate, blogspot.com Tariff `700- THIRTHAHALLI STD 08181 plantation tours, bird watching udupi.com Rooms 48 Tariff Location Kollegola Tal sightseeing tours, boating, 1,500 Facilities Restaurant Bananki Homestay `4,366-6,000 + breakfast Chamaraj Nagar Cell birdwatching, fishing, bonfire, pure veg, attached bath Location Devangi Post, Kuppali Homestay Facilities Veg Restaurants, 08970650053 W kstdc.co pick-up/ drop arranged. Dinner Thirthahalli Tal Cell 094814 Location Thirthahalli Rooms coffee shop, temple tours Rooms 4 Tariff `1,443-1,700 charges `375/400 Sringeri Mutt 90555, 09448320047 W banaki 4, dorms 1 Tariff `1,450 arranged, foot reflexology, TV Facilities Restaurant, parking Location Sringeri Tel 250123, homestay.com Rooms 7 Tariff +meals pp Facilities Dining SRAVANABELAGOLA STD 08176 250594, 250192 Rooms 500 `2,250-2,500 +meals pp Faci- area, sightseeing arranged, Treebo Trend Vijaya Grand SIDDAPUR STD 08274 Hotel Raghu Tariff `100-1,000 Facilities lities Dining area, plantation bonfire Bengaluru Res- Location Old Post Office Alath-Cad Estate Bungalow Location Main Road Tel lodging, attached bath walks, games, cycling ervations Cell 09900005858 Road, Opp Kalpana Theater, Location Amidst coffee 257238 Cell 09844068852 Diana Circle Tel 2531141 plantations, Ammathi, via Rooms 17 Tariff `600-1,000 SRIRANGAPATNA STD 08236 Dodda Mane Homestay Sakrebyle Elephant Camp W treebo.com Rooms 30 Virajpet Tel 252190, 252589 Facilities Veg restaurant, Amblee Holiday Resorts Location Kasturi Akka, Main Location Sakrebyle, Tariff `1,800-4,200 + breakfast Cell 09482980873, 094829 internet Location 17, SH17, Mysuru Road, Dodda Mane, Agumba Gajanoor Cell 09480887180 Facilities Internet, room 80735 W alathcad coorg.com, Bengaluru Highway Cell Cell 09448603343 Rooms 2, W junglelodges.com Rooms 6 service, TV alathcadhomestay.com Rooms SDJMIMC 09341912221, 09845002665 dorms 1 (5 bedded) Tariff On wooden cottages (Chalets), 3 11 Tariff `2,500-4,000 Location Bahubali Matt W ambleeresort.in Rooms 35 request Facilities Meals tented cottages, 1 dorm (10 IN MANIPAL STD 0820 +breakfast Facilities Home- Dharmashala, Channaraya- Tariff `1,500-3,000; TE provided, common bath bedded) Tariff `1,800-2,065, Country Inn & Suites by cooked Coorg meals, patna Road Tel 257258, Facilities Restaurant, pool, per person +meals, elephant Radisson plantation tour, internet 257131 Cell 07892471068 boating, fishing, kids play area Hingaara – The Nature Stay interaction, trekking, forest Location Rajathadri Road Rooms 22 guest houses, 2 Location Guddekeri Post Cell entry charges pp, dorm bed Vidyarathna, KA Nagar Tel Coorg Golf Links dharamshalas, 4 halls Tariff Cauvery Sannidhi 09481534099, 09900602529 `1,600 + meals, elephant 2701600 W countryinns.com Location Spring Valley `200-900, hall `650-850 for Indian Culture W hingaara.com Rooms 4, interaction, trekking, forest Rooms 54 Tariff `3,800- Annexe, Bittangala Tel 298009 Facilities Lodging only, meals Location 69, Bommuru dorm 1 Tariff `1,950+meals, entry charges pp Facilities 15,000 + breakfast; TE Cell 09740260346 W in the temple Agrahara Village, Paschima activities pp Facilities Dining Dining area, trekking, Facilities Restaurant, coorggolflinks.in Rooms 6 Vahini Circle, Off Mysuru- Tariff `3,000; TE Facilities SDK Residency Bengaluru Highway Cell Restaurant, recreation room Location CR Patna Road, Opp 07899478876, 08277689011 Yatri Nivas Tel 276544 Cell W mysorecauverysannidhi. Evolve Back Resort 09448220514, 09152651808 com Rooms 10 Tariffs `3,000- Location In a plantation, PO Rooms 12 Tariff `1,200-2,200 3,500 Facilities Kitchen, veg Karadigodu, Siddapur Tel Facilities Lodging, room homecooked food, dining hall 258481-84 W evolveback.com service, attached bath Rooms 32 villas, 26 cottages, Hotel Mayura Riverview 5 bungalows Tariff `33,000- SRINGERI STD 08265 ksTDC 70,000 + meals, nature Bhide Homestay Location Mysuru Road Tel activities, guided spice tour, Location Bharathinagara 297114 Cell 08970650004/ 99 forest trek Facilities Res- Menase, Opp Rajiv Gandhi W kstdc.co Rooms 25 Tariff taurants, café, treks, guided Sanskrit University `2,000-5,000 Facilities plantation tour, spa Bengaluru Chikamagalur-Sringeri Road Restaurant, bar, kids play area

444 Karnataka Karnataka 445 ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS hotels swimming pool, gym, spa, Restaurant, bar, room service, IN TRASI/ MARAVANTHE Tariff `1,680 Facilities `2,000-3,000 Facilities Home Heggala Road, Heggala travel help, room service, TV parking, hot water, TV STD 08254 Separate veg and non-veg cooked Kodava cuisine, Virajpet Cell 09686976113, Sagar Kinara Beach Resort restaurants attached bath 09513331333 W thewindchime Hotel Madhuvan Serai Palm Grove Resort Location NH-17, Trasi- sretreat.in Rooms 8 Tariff Location Near Smriti Bhavan Location Fisheries Road Maravanthe Beach Cell Sabala Heritage Home Sithara Homestay `4,500-7,500 + breakfast; TE Upendra Nagar, Near Tiger Yermal Bada Cell 074067 09448724861, 09886884046 Location Sabala Campus, NH Location Sidapur Road Facilities Food on request Circle Tel 2571667-68 Cell 22269 Rooms 13 Tariff Rooms 6 Tariff `800-1,000 13, Near Ganesh Nagar Virajpet Tel 256310 Cell 07829901250-51 W hotel `2,000-2,500 + breakfast Facilities Travel help, room Vijayapura Bypass Cell 09740190812 W sithara.org IN GONIKOPPAL madhuvanserai.com Rooms Facilities Meals on prior service, TV 09448118204 W sabala Rooms 4 Tariff `4,000 Naadmane Homestay 47 Tariff `3,000-7,000 request, dining area heritagehome.org Rooms 11 Facilities Club house, Location Hebbale Estate (breakfast; TE Facilities Sunlight Beach Resort rooms (7 AC/ 4 non-AC) Tariff trekking, plantation tours, Devarapura, Gonikoppal Cell Separate veg and non-veg IN KUNDAPURA Location Opposite Trasi 1,600-4,000 + breakfast birdwatching 09886637259, 09900090141 Restaurants, bar, spa, internet STD 08254 Beach Cell 09880346029 Facilities Veg cuisine (non-veg W naadmanehomestay.com Tip Handicap Friendly – Coqueiros Beach Cottages Rooms 11 Tariff `2,300 on request), Internet, Banjara IN BITTANGALA Rooms 6 Tariff `1,200/ folding wheelchair available Location Hale Alive, Facilities Basic accom- Village visit, cultural activities Ambatty Greens person + breakfast pp Beach Road, Near Kinara modation, room service Tip Runs an NGO called Location Bittangala, Coorg Facilities Home cooked Satkar Paradise Hotel Koteshwara Cell 081239 Sabala for empowerment of Golf links Tel 298004, Kodava cuisine Location End Point Road 11781, 09591682258 IN KARKALA STD 08258 local women 298012 Cell 090087 85744 Near Crumbz Bakery, 2nd W coqueirosbeachcottages. Hotel Prakash W ambattygreens.com Rooms IN KARADA Cross, Vidyaratna Nagar com Rooms 10 cottages, 2 Location SH-37, Near Shashinag Clarks Inn 24 Tariff `10,880-12,160 + Club Mahindra Virajpet Tel 4291000, 4292000 dorms Tariff `3,500-4,500 Anantha Shayana Temple Tel Location NH-52, Solapur breakfast Facilities Location Palangala Village W satkargroup.com Rooms 36 +breakfast; TE dorm (non-Ac,6 234981/ 2 Cell 09632826562 Bypass Road Tel 260344, Restaurant, bar, swimming Karada Post Tel 260700, Apartments Tariff `2,200; TE bedded) `800/ bed, AC (8 W hotelprakashkarkala.com 260444 Cell 08151869044, pool, library, recreation room 269999 W clubmahindra.com Facilities Service apartment bedded) `6,000; TE Facilities Rooms 25 Tariff `800-1,960 07568258599 W clarksinn.in Rooms 174 Tariff `8,500 with AC, fridge, microwave, Restaurant, bar, spa, games, Facilities Restaurant, TV Rooms 30 rooms Tariff Coorg Golf Links -15,000+breakfast Facilities stove, utensils water sports, fishing, cycling `2,000-5,000; TE Facilities Location Spring Valley Restaurant, bar, coffee lounge, Hotel Suhag Multicuisine restaurants, Annexe, Bittangala swimming pool, spa, gym IN MALPE STD 0820 UVA Meridian Bay Location Gopal Towers Coffee Shop, lounge/ bar, Tel 298009 Cell 09740260346 Malpe Sea Front Cottages Resort & Spa Complex, Main Road Tel garden, pool, gym, spa W coorggolflinks.in Rooms 6 Keemalekad Estate Location Malpe Beach Cell Location Prafulla Enclave 231991/ 2 Rooms 21 Tariff Tariff `3,000; TE Facilities Guesthouse 07847800800 W malpeseafront Halady Road, Koteshwara Cell `800-1,400 Facilities Veg VIRAJPET STD 08274 Restaurant, recreation room Location Karada Village cottage.com Rooms 8 09449606060, 09483303030 Restaurant, room service, TV 37, Malabar Road Homestay Cell 09980666766 Rooms 4 cottages Tariff `2,000-7,000 W meridianbayresort.com Location Anugraha, 37/ 12B IN KADANGA Tariff `1,750+breakfast pp Facilities Separate veg and Rooms 49 Tariff `3,000-8,000 Seethanadi Nature Camp Malabar Road Cell The Windchimes Retreat Facilities In house restaurant non-veg Restaurants, swim- + breakfast; TE Facilities Location Hebri, Taluk Karkala 09886827885 Rooms 3 Tariff Location Manjunatha Estate with Coorgi cuisine ming pool, spa, water sports Restaurant, pool, gym, spa, Udupi Cell 09449599758 W salon, mini library, travel help, junglelodges.com Rooms 7 Paradise Isle Beach Resort internet, room service, TV cottages, dorms 1 (10 bedded) Location Malpe Beach Cell Tariff `1,534-2095, dorms 07847800800 W theparadise IN BASRUR STD 08254 `1,298 Facilities Restaurant isle.com Rooms 72 Tariff Soans Island Bengaluru Reservations Tel `3,500-7,000 Facilities Veg Location CS Road, Basrur 080-40554055 and non veg restaurants, bar, Village, 6km from Kundapura coffee shop, spa, water sports Tel 231683 Cell 09448120826 VIJAYAPUR/ BIJAPUR STD 08352 W soans.com Rooms 5 Tariff KSTDC Mayura Adil Shahi IN KAUP STD 0820 `6,000 +2 meals, boat trip up Annexe ksTDC Hotel Mayura & down Facilities Dining area, Location Station Road, Near Location NH-66, Uliargoli Cell birdwatching, fishing, nature Ambedkar Stadium Tel 250 09448952921 Rooms 15 Tariff walks, cycling 401 Cell 08970650031 W `750-1,600; TE Facilities Tip Fixed Menu kstdc.co Rooms 4

446 Karnataka Karnataka 447 Photo Credits

Front Cover Satish kumar Shutterstock: Page 3, Nandi Bull at Chamundeshwari Temple Virupaksha temple surrounded by the old ruins of the ancient city of Hampi shutterstock Page 5, Left: Yellow-Browed bulbul seen near Dandeli Back Cover Page 49, Below left; Sala fighting the Lion, the emblem of getty images the Hoysala Empire - Chennakeshava Temple Top: Jog Falls, Shimoga Page 57, Top right: Giant Malabar Squirrel at Nagarahole Shutterstock National Park Bottom: A majestic tiger at Kabini Page 57, Below left: Tortoise at Bannerghatta National Park Inside the Book Page 66-67, Beautiful decoated ceiling and pillars of the ANURAG MALLICK Ambavilasa Hall, Mysore Palace Page 4, Right: Temple at Somanathapura Page 70, Aerial view of Vidhana Soudha and High Court Page 5, Middle: The Ibnii walkway to the Kaadu (foreground) buildings Page 6, Left: Boat at Karwar Beach Page 198-199, Aerial shot of sea and river in Udupi Page 6, Right: Kabini Gaur Page 262-263, Jog Falls at Sharavati River Page 7, Left: Bara Kaman at Bijapur Page 310-311, The exhuberant cascades of Jog Falls Page 7, Right: Stone chariot in the courtyard of Vittala Page 328-329, The remains of a Shiva temple of the Temple in Hampi Chalukya period atop the north fort at Badami Page 43, Right; A Veeragase dancer Page 57, Top left: A Spotted deer Srikanth Kolari Page 57, Below right: Sloth Bear at Daroji Bear Sanctuary Page 24: Udupi restaurants such as MTR have a fascinating Page 158-159, Beautiful scenic view of Madikeri origin in the worship of Krishna getty images Courtesy Images Page 43, Top left: Yakshagana Wikipedia Page 38, Karnataka’s tableau at the Republic Day parade PRASHANT PANJIAR in Delhi shows a Bidriware artisan Page 7, Middle: Masala Dosa at Hotel Mitra Samaj in Page 43, Below left: Dollu Kunitha (with drums) Car Street, Udupi Page 101, Kaveri River near Dodda Ghosai Ghat

Saibal das Page 4, Left: Mysore Palace during Dasara Route Planners Page 5, Right: Gomateshwara Statue Graphics: Rajesh KG

448 Karnataka