travel by Vawn Himmelsbach Santorini is as postcard-perfect as While these islands are by no means But the Greek isles aren’t just for I imagined. But as I elbowed my deserted, they don’t get the volumes sun-worshippers. Kos, the ‘island of way through hordes of tourists all of tourists that Santorini and Mykonos Hippocrates,’ was a surprise, with clamouring to get the same iconic see during the summer season — in its lush, green hills, covered in olive photo of Santorini — and trying to part, because large cruise ships don’t groves and vineyards. Foodies can visit avoid getting smacked in the face go there, and in part because they’re the beekeepers in Kefalos, where they with a selfie stick or accidently photo- less accessible to tourists in general. To can sample thyme honey, traditional Discovering bombing someone’s Instagram shot — get to Ios, for example, you’d have to loukoumades (mini honey donuts) I found myself longing to get back to take a ferry from Santorini; there’s no and raki (a local spirit) flavoured with quiet, peaceful Milos. airport on the island. honey. the Many of these tourists had been Ios does have a reputation as a party Then there’s the award-winning Syrah deposited from large cruise ships, the island, but there’s more to it than that from the family-run Hatziemmanouil Sea kind with up to 9,000 passengers, who — especially if you’re out during the Vineyards. And in Zia, the most were trying to cram in as much action day while the partygoers are sleeping traditional village on the island, you as they could get in a couple of hours. off their hangovers. While it’s not can pick up the local liqueur made Less completely off the grid, you’ll find of cinnamon and sip on black, syrupy Thankfully, I was cruising around the expats and backpackers here, only 500 Greek coffee. If you want sun and Aegean Sea on a smaller vessel, one people live on the island permanently. sand, however, there’s good swimming Travelled that’s small enough to visit ports that It’s dotted with authentic Greek at Marcos Beach. larger cruise ships can’t go (or don’t villages, and has a church for literally bother to). And while we paid a visit every day of the year (yes, 365 of them) The Celestyal Crystal has three- and in to Santorini and Mykonos, we were dotting the rugged landscape. four-day itineraries, for those who want also able to avoid the crowds at smaller, less-visited Greek isles and along the Greece coast of the Turkish Riviera. here are no swaying palm trees Its rugged coastline offers up more than walking on the moon (if the moon “There are some ports that cruise There, no powder-white sand. There 75 beaches of sand, pebble or volcanic had really cool swimming holes). lines can go, but rarely choose to do isn’t a single hotel or resort in sight, rock; some are more easily accessible There are the rock formations of so,” said Dan Buru, cruise director no striped umbrellas or beach bars and meant for swimming; some are Kleftiko, the caves of Papafragkas and for Celestyal Crystal, who has been or sunbathing tourists. Instead, the wild and isolated and require effort the thermal springs at Kanava, Provata with the company for 10 years and deep-blue sea is surrounded by multi- to find. But they’re not packed with and Pikropiyi. The biggest beach witnessed the growth of the cruise coloured volcanic rock that creates tourists like beaches on other Greek is Ahivadolimni, but there are also industry here. pillars and caves and cliffs, giving one islands. Some are actually empty. beaches with dramatic landscapes at the impression of being on another Fyriplaka, Yerakas and Tsigrados. “The big cruise lines, in order to attract planet (or maybe a moon). About half the island is a nature thousands of passengers, they go to reserve, only accessible by boat or off- Many people come to the Greek islands more commercial spots,” he said. “We And making for a great backdrop road vehicle (indeed, the best way to to tick a few things off their bucket list. go also to some niche spots where only when you plunge into the water from see it is to rent a boat for the day from Santorini? Check. Mykonos? Check. we can go and where people cannot ABOVE: The ancient Greek city of Ephesus was built in the 10th century BC. It was your catamaran. the harbour). And it has what some The Acropolis? Check. But that’s like usually go by ferry or [by plane].” once the Mediterranean’s main commercial centre. RIGHT: The impressive grey rocks visitors believe are the best beaches in saying you’ve had souvlaki and Greek of Sarkiniko beach on the island of Milos. This is Milos, one of the Greek all of Greece. salad, so therefore you’ve experienced Milos, for example, is a “hidden gem islands in the Cyclades — an island Greek food. There’s much more to that nobody goes to,” he said. Why? The best way to get around is to rent to add some Greek island hopping to that was created from a series of There’s Sarakiniko, with its lunar Greece and, arguably, more authentic Because when it’s winter back home a vehicle or scooter and wind your their European vacation. On the longer earthquakes, tsunamis and volcanic landscape of glaring-white volcanic experiences to be found by going off in North America, it’s a hard sell: way through the mountainous terrain seven-day itinerary, the vessel makes its eruptions. And while it doesn’t get rock, which makes you feel like you’re the well-worn tourist path. people want white sandy beaches and on the island’s only road to discover way to the Turkish Riviera, for a visit the same level of attention as its more turquoise water, not volcanic rocks. isolated beaches. The Celestyal Crystal to swish Cesme, with its trendy beach popular neighbours, like Santorini and A cruise through the Greek islands In some cases, they simply can’t go: arrived in the morning and, after a clubs and high-end boutiques, as well as Mykonos, that is perhaps what makes with Celestyal Cruises took me to at Samos, for example, windy weather short, scenic drive, I found myself at Kusadasi, with its Turkish bazaars ideal it so appealing. Santorini and Mykonos, but also to conditions make it too difficult for the isolated beach of Manganari, along for shopping (and bargaining). Plus, lesser-known isles such as Milos, Ios larger vessels to navigate. with just a handful of other travellers there’s an option to visit the ancient and Kos — islands that I had never — and plenty of empty beach chairs to kingdom of Ephesus, near Kusadasi. ABOVE: The volcanic Greek island of heard of previously. Turned out, those “However, if you take this cruise … choose from. Milos has some 80 beaches including islands were the best part of my trip. you go to the main attractions, but you Sure, Santorini and Mykonos are secluded caves with crystal clear water. go somewhere that others don’t go to,” I couldn’t quite believe I had a long worth a visit, but the true gems of RIGHT: Architecturally, Syros is one I’d long wanted to see Santorini, with said Buru. “They’re not even aware stretch of sandy beach practically the Aegean Sea are the ones you’ve of the most fascinating of the Greek its blue-domed, whitewashed buildings; Syros is on the itinerary and when to myself during the high season in never heard of — and you just might Islands along with being the most after all, it’s the stuff of legends. Clearly, they arrive they’re amazed. Milos is Greece. But on some of these lesser- discover you had the wrong items on cosmopolitan. though, I wasn’t the only one. the same.” visited islands, it’s possible. your bucket list n

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