Walking Kilkenny Draft
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WALKING KILKENNY a self-guided walking tour Acknowledgments by Corey Taratuta A special thanks to Liam Hughes and John Anthony Keegan The following sources were used for reference: Discover Kilkenny by John Lonely Planet Ireland by Tom Bradley (O’Brien Press, Ltd); Downs, Fionn Davenport, Des Frommer’s Ireland From Hannigan, Etain O’Carroll and $60 a Day by Mark Meagher Neil Wilson (Lonely Planet) (Wiley Publishing, Inc) Illustrated Guide to Ireland Kilkenny: A Touring Guide by edited by Sandy Sheperd Brian Fox and Pat Nolan (South (The Reader’s Digest Association Limited) DRAFT East Tourism and Kilkenny for tour testing Tourism) www.irish-architecture.com © 2005 Corey Taratuta [email protected] • www.knockahopple.com 1409 N. Prospect Avenue #302, Milwaukee, WI 53202 Main Tour Route Detours & Secondary Routes Tour Stops Restaurant or Pub WALKING KILKENNY MAP (see page 21) 1 2 Kilkenny circa 1698 WELCOME TO KILKENNY TIPS You are about to experience Wear comfortable Kilkenny, one of Ireland’s premier walking shoes. medieval cities and one of the coun- try’s most enchanting inland towns. Dress for the weather. It once rivaled Dublin in importance In Ireland it is often better to wear a water- and has played a continuous role in proof hooded jacket Ireland’s history. Today it is a than to operate an bustling market town that fosters a umbrella. thriving arts community. This walking tour is designed to The streets and side- take you to each of the major attrac- walks of Kilkenny can tions and also off the tourist path to be very busy. The best many of the more hidden finds. You times for a walking will learn much of Kilkenny’s histo- tour are in the morning and the late afternoon. ry and stories and discover why it has been called the Marble City, the Ask for directions. town of the Fighting Cats and the Every effort has been Artistic Heart of Ireland. made to provide easy- Expect the tour route to take a to-use maps and minimum of one hour to walk. Add instructions, but the in visits to Kilkenny’s many attrac- medieval web of tions such as the castle, cathedrals streets can be disori- enting. and brewery and you could extend the tour to last an entire day or Kilkenny is considered more. a very safe town for Several detours have been visitors. However, it is included along the way. These important to remain diversions will take you off the aware of your sur- main track and allow you to explore roundings. even more of Kilkenny. The tour begins at the Kilkenny Read the tour prior to your walk to familiarize Design Centre and ends at the near- yourself with the sites by Butler House. and stories you are about to experience. ABOVE The round tower at St. Canice’s Cathedral (Stop 14) is the oldest building in Kilkenny RIGHT James Hoban, born near Kilkenny in Callan, designed the White House in Washington D.C. based Kilkenny’s crest is displayed on Dublin’s Leinster House on the Thostle (Stop 6) 3 4 Kilkenny Castle today with its THE BUTLER LEGACY Baronial facade In 1177 Theobald FitzWalter was installed as Chief Butler of Ireland and given the title of Prisage of Wine by King Henry II. Such a privilege allowed FitzWalter to claim roughly 15 percent of all wine in Ireland. Not surprisingly, the control of alcohol made the family extremely wealthy. In 1 The Kilkenny Design 2 Kilkenny Castle 3 The Parade was 1328, the Butlers were made Earls of Centre is housed in the began as a wooden tower originally a row of build- Ormond and in 1391 John Butler pur- castle’s former stables. erected in 1172 by ings that formed the east chased the castle in Kilkenny and a sig- The stables, constructed Richard de Clare, better side of Castle Street. nificant portion of the county. in about 1780, feature a known as Strongbow. His They were demolished Butler Castle circa In a time when the Anglo-Normans semicircular courtyard and son-in-law, William by the first duke of 1600 with its French Marshall, later built the Ormond in the early 17th château facade and the Gaelic Irish were severely segre- curved stable block. In stone castle with four century to create an area gated, John Butler was very effective in 1965 the stables were large drum towers. In in front of the castle for managing his Irish tenants. He spoke flu- converted into the Kilkenny Design 1391 the Butler family military parades and ent Irish and worked to eliminate the Workshops. Created to bought the castle and assemblies. Statute of Kilkenny, which forbade promote quality Irish craft continued to live there The Parade now Anglo-Irish marriage. and design, the Centre until 1935. serves as a central loca- In 1811 the crown bought back the has established Kilkenny Cromwell’s siege from tion for tours, public toi- right to the Prisage of Wine for about as the creative heart of 1650-1659 severely dam- lets and the occasional £250 million in today’s economy ($475 Ireland. aged the south wing, and street artist. Walk down million). That money was used to exten- The Design Centre is a one tower was lost. In the Parade to Rose Inn 1967 the Butlers handed Street. Across the street sively remodel the castle from its French popular shopping destina- tion for Irish crafts. A café the castle to the city for a you will see the grey château appearance to its current Baronial within the Design Centre mere £50. stone front of the Shee facade. serves tea, scones and The castle interior has Alms House (Tourist The 17th century saw many of the light lunches. From the been refurbished to its Information Centre). For Butlers emigrate to Europe and America, second courtyard visitors Victorian splendor, and safety, cross Rose Inn while others served in Continental armies can gain access to the guided tours offer a Street at the intersection. and were ennobled for their services. splendid gardens of the glimpse of rooms such as Variations of the Butler name are evident Butler House (see Stop the magnificent Long Gallery. in Spain, Sweden, France (Boutler or de 25). Directly across the Butler), Austria and Germany (Buttlar) street is the castle. and Russia (Butleroff). The Butler family crest Through the years, the decline in rent includes six goblets repre- revenue, the Irish battle for independence senting the family’s Prisage of Wine title and the exorbitant costs to maintain the castle made Kilkenny a less desirable location for the Butler family. In 1935 the contents of the castle were auctioned off, and in 1967 the castle was given to the people of Kilkenny. 5 6 Parliament Street MEDIEVAL HIGH SOCIETY in Irishtown From 1277 until 1425, Kilkenny was a popular site for the English-ruled meet- ings of parliament and king’s council. In 1366 one of the most famous of these meetings was held. It came to be identi- fied with the Statute of Kilkenny which had been passed at the meeting. The statute forbade any English settler to 4 Shee Alms House 5 St. Mary’s Church 6 The Thostel gets its 7 The Butter Slip, tra- adopt an Irish name, wear Irish apparel or Shee Alms House was lies up the narrow lane name from two old ditionally used by women use the Irish language. Those of Irish established in 1582 to behind the Alms House. English words “toll” to sell butter, served as a blood were forbidden to live within the house six “honest, poor, The 12th century church meaning tax and “sael” passage from High Street walls of any fortified town, and any set- unmarried men” on the served as Hightown’s meaning hall. In addition to a boat slip on the tler marrying an Irish person was commit- upper story and six wid- medieval parish church, to being a custom house, River Nore. Walk down and reverence to the site the Thostel served as a the Butter Slip. Many of ting high treason. ows of fifty years of age or older on the lower was evident in an ordi- guildhall and courthouse. the buildings still have As a result, Kilkenny was divided into story. Contact between nance passed in 1337, Built in 1761 by alderman their original stone win- three areas. Hightown included every- men and women was for- which rewarded anyone William Colles, a family dow jambs and door- thing protected within the town’s walls; it bidden except during who killed pigs found for- associated with ways. At the end of the was located on the highest ground and their two hours of prayer. aging within the church- Kilkenny’s distinctive slip, you will reach Kieran included the castle and significant com- Grounds for immediate yard. The church closed black marble quarries, Street. This street was mercial and government buildings. expulsion included mar- in 1957; however, the the Thostle is construct- previously called Low key is available at the ed of Kilkenny marble Lane to differentiate it Irishtown extended northwest from the riage, missing weekly Divine Service or convic- Tourist Office for visitors and the town’s coat of from High Street. When city. This was where a majority of the tion for an offense such with a special interest in arms is displayed on the you reach Kieran Street, town’s citizens lived. Across the river to as fornication, adultery or heraldry. Continue up the south wall of the building. turn left. the east was St. John’s, named after the drunkenness.