WALKING a self-guided walking tour

Acknowledgments by Corey Taratuta A special thanks to Liam Hughes and John Anthony Keegan

The following sources were used for reference:

Discover Kilkenny by John Lonely Planet by Tom Bradley (O’Brien Press, Ltd); Downs, Fionn Davenport, Des Frommer’s Ireland From Hannigan, Etain O’Carroll and $60 a Day by Mark Meagher Neil Wilson (Lonely Planet) (Wiley Publishing, Inc) Illustrated Guide to Ireland Kilkenny: A Touring Guide by edited by Sandy Sheperd Brian Fox and Pat Nolan (South (The Reader’s Digest Association Limited) DRAFT East Tourism and Kilkenny for tour testing Tourism) www.irish-architecture.com

© 2005 Corey Taratuta [email protected] • www.knockahopple.com 1409 N. Prospect Avenue #302, Milwaukee, WI 53202 Main Tour Route Detours & Secondary Routes Tour Stops Restaurant or Pub WALKING KILKENNY MAP (see page 21)

1 2 Kilkenny circa 1698

WELCOME TO KILKENNY

TIPS You are about to experience Wear comfortable Kilkenny, one of Ireland’s premier walking shoes. medieval cities and one of the coun- try’s most enchanting inland towns. Dress for the weather. It once rivaled in importance In Ireland it is often better to wear a water- and has played a continuous role in proof hooded jacket Ireland’s history. Today it is a than to operate an bustling market town that fosters a umbrella. thriving arts community. This walking tour is designed to The streets and side- take you to each of the major attrac- walks of Kilkenny can tions and also off the tourist path to be very busy. The best many of the more hidden finds. You times for a walking will learn much of Kilkenny’s histo- tour are in the morning and the late afternoon. ry and stories and discover why it has been called the Marble City, the Ask for directions. town of the Fighting Cats and the Every effort has been Artistic Heart of Ireland. made to provide easy- Expect the tour route to take a to-use maps and minimum of one hour to walk. Add instructions, but the in visits to Kilkenny’s many attrac- medieval web of tions such as the castle, cathedrals streets can be disori- enting. and brewery and you could extend the tour to last an entire day or Kilkenny is considered more. a very safe town for Several detours have been visitors. However, it is included along the way. These important to remain diversions will take you off the aware of your sur- main track and allow you to explore roundings. even more of Kilkenny. The tour begins at the Kilkenny Read the tour prior to your walk to familiarize Design Centre and ends at the near- yourself with the sites by Butler House. and stories you are about to experience.

ABOVE The round tower at St. Canice’s Cathedral (Stop 14) is the oldest building in Kilkenny RIGHT James Hoban, born near Kilkenny in Callan, designed the White House in Washington D.C. based Kilkenny’s crest is displayed on Dublin’s House on the Thostle (Stop 6) 3 4

Kilkenny Castle today with its THE BUTLER LEGACY Baronial facade

In 1177 Theobald FitzWalter was installed as Chief Butler of Ireland and given the title of Prisage of Wine by King Henry II. Such a privilege allowed FitzWalter to claim roughly 15 percent of all wine in Ireland. Not surprisingly, the control of alcohol made the family extremely wealthy. In 1 The Kilkenny Design 2 3 The Parade was 1328, the Butlers were made Earls of Centre is housed in the began as a wooden tower originally a row of build- Ormond and in 1391 John Butler pur- castle’s former stables. erected in 1172 by ings that formed the east chased the castle in Kilkenny and a sig- The stables, constructed Richard de Clare, better side of Castle Street. nificant portion of the county. in about 1780, feature a known as Strongbow. His They were demolished Butler Castle circa In a time when the Anglo-Normans semicircular courtyard and son-in-law, William by the first duke of 1600 with its French Marshall, later built the Ormond in the early 17th château facade and the Gaelic Irish were severely segre- curved stable block. In stone castle with four century to create an area gated, John Butler was very effective in 1965 the stables were large drum towers. In in front of the castle for managing his Irish tenants. He spoke flu- converted into the Kilkenny Design 1391 the Butler family military parades and ent Irish and worked to eliminate the Workshops. Created to bought the castle and assemblies. Statute of Kilkenny, which forbade promote quality Irish craft continued to live there The Parade now Anglo-Irish marriage. and design, the Centre until 1935. serves as a central loca- In 1811 the crown bought back the has established Kilkenny Cromwell’s siege from tion for tours, public toi- right to the Prisage of Wine for about as the creative heart of 1650-1659 severely dam- lets and the occasional £250 million in today’s economy ($475 Ireland. aged the south wing, and street artist. Walk down million). That money was used to exten- The Design Centre is a one tower was lost. In the Parade to Rose Inn 1967 the Butlers handed Street. Across the street sively remodel the castle from its French popular shopping destina- tion for Irish crafts. A café the castle to the city for a you will see the grey château appearance to its current Baronial within the Design Centre mere £50. stone front of the Shee facade. serves tea, scones and The castle interior has Alms House (Tourist The 17th century saw many of the light lunches. From the been refurbished to its Information Centre). For Butlers emigrate to Europe and America, second courtyard visitors Victorian splendor, and safety, cross Rose Inn while others served in Continental armies can gain access to the guided tours offer a Street at the intersection. and were ennobled for their services. splendid gardens of the glimpse of rooms such as Variations of the Butler name are evident Butler House (see Stop the magnificent Long Gallery. in Spain, Sweden, France (Boutler or de 25). Directly across the Butler), Austria and Germany (Buttlar) street is the castle. and Russia (Butleroff). The Butler family crest Through the years, the decline in rent includes six goblets repre- revenue, the Irish battle for independence senting the family’s Prisage of Wine title and the exorbitant costs to maintain the castle made Kilkenny a less desirable location for the Butler family. In 1935 the contents of the castle were auctioned off, and in 1967 the castle was given to the people of Kilkenny.

5 6 Parliament Street MEDIEVAL HIGH SOCIETY in Irishtown

From 1277 until 1425, Kilkenny was a popular site for the English-ruled meet- ings of parliament and king’s council. In 1366 one of the most famous of these meetings was held. It came to be identi- fied with the Statute of Kilkenny which had been passed at the meeting. The statute forbade any English settler to 4 Shee Alms House 5 St. Mary’s Church 6 The Thostel gets its 7 The Butter Slip, tra- adopt an Irish name, wear Irish apparel or Shee Alms House was lies up the narrow lane name from two old ditionally used by women use the Irish language. Those of Irish established in 1582 to behind the Alms House. English words “toll” to sell butter, served as a blood were forbidden to live within the house six “honest, poor, The 12th century church meaning tax and “sael” passage from High Street walls of any fortified town, and any set- unmarried men” on the served as Hightown’s meaning hall. In addition to a boat slip on the tler marrying an Irish person was commit- upper story and six wid- medieval parish church, to being a custom house, River Nore. Walk down and reverence to the site the Thostel served as a the Butter Slip. Many of ting high treason. ows of fifty years of age or older on the lower was evident in an ordi- guildhall and courthouse. the buildings still have As a result, Kilkenny was divided into story. Contact between nance passed in 1337, Built in 1761 by alderman their original stone win- three areas. Hightown included every- men and women was for- which rewarded anyone William Colles, a family dow jambs and door- thing protected within the town’s walls; it bidden except during who killed pigs found for- associated with ways. At the end of the was located on the highest ground and their two hours of prayer. aging within the church- Kilkenny’s distinctive slip, you will reach Kieran included the castle and significant com- Grounds for immediate yard. The church closed black marble quarries, Street. This street was mercial and government buildings. expulsion included mar- in 1957; however, the the Thostle is construct- previously called Low key is available at the ed of Kilkenny marble Lane to differentiate it Irishtown extended northwest from the riage, missing weekly Divine Service or convic- Tourist Office for visitors and the town’s coat of from High Street. When city. This was where a majority of the tion for an offense such with a special interest in arms is displayed on the you reach Kieran Street, town’s citizens lived. Across the river to as fornication, adultery or heraldry. Continue up the south wall of the building. turn left. the east was St. John’s, named after the drunkenness. Restored laneway to High Street Walk through the arched priory that was built there. This area was in 1986, the Tudor build- and turn right. arcade where fresh dairy the last area to be settled. ing houses the Tourist products were sold right Office. Note the crests into the 20th century. displayed above the front Continue down High and back doors. Take the Street until you reach an interior or exterior stairs arch that reveals a nar- to reach the back door. row lane.

THE MARBLE CITY Marble quarried outside Kilkenny is noted for its black color and random splotches and rings of white that resemble drops of paint. A look around the city will reveal the marble’s appearance on numerous buildings, door frames and window jambs. Even the streets were paved with marble until the 1930s, which earned Kilkenny the title of Marble City. A local black limestone is also common and was the primary stone used for the old city walls and many buildings. However, the softer limestone lacks the notable white markings.

7 8 THE WITCH OF KILKENNY Grace’s Castle

One of Kilkenny’s most notorious characters was Dame Alice Kyteler (pro- nounced Kit-ler). The attractive and well- connected moneylender born in 1284 had survived at least three wealthy husbands; each dying under suspicious circum- stances. When her fourth husband suf- fered from a mysterious illness in 1324, 8 Kyteler’s Inn is most 9 Parliament Street is 11 Rothe House, built his children from a previous marriage commonly associated the site where High in 1594, is a fine example suspected foul play and appealed to the with Dame Alice Kyteler, Street meets Kieran of a wealthy Tudor mer- Bishop to try her for heresy. the witch of Kilkenny. In Street. Notice the modern chant’s home. In the mid- Despite being dismissed by town offi- its day, the word “inn” sculpture of Saint 17th century the home Driven mad by the six, cials, most of whom were friends or rela- described a residence Cainneach (Canice). The and the Rothe family beatings she received to, and it was unlikely that artwork featured four played an important role extract her confession, tives of Alice, Bishop Ledrede persisted. Dame Kyteler used it to streams of water for a in the Confederation of Petronilla of Meath did not, Alice used her influence to have him recant her heresy charges, lodge guests. It is now a short time, but the foun- Kilkenny, established to and was paraded through, imprisoned in Kilkenny Castle for a spell. popular pub and a visit to tain was turned off after restore the rites of the the streets of Kilkenny and, Finally, Alice and five others were tried the basement restaurant debris continuously Catholic Church. The fam- burned at the stake on, November 2, 1324, for sorcery, consorting with demons, reveals a vaulted stone clogged the drain. ily lived here until evicted making potions and having intercourse ceiling. Some windows Continue up Parliament by Cromwellian orders in with the devil. on the north side have Street until you reach the 1653. The family regained the property in 1660 only Alice was found guilty and sentenced been blocked in; in an gates of Grace’s Castle. era when a tax was to lose it again after the to be burned at the stake. She escaped levied on windows, many 10 Grace’s Castle was Battle of the Boyne in and fled to Scotland, but her maid angry homeowners opted built in 1210 for the 1690. The home has been Petronilla, one of her accused accom- to close up windows Grace family. In 1566, the restored and houses the plices, was burned in her place. rather than pay the tax, fortified home was given Kilkenny Archaeological The case presented the first time witch- hence, the term “daylight to the county for use as a Society and their collec- craft and heresy were linked and the first robbery.” Continue up jail until 1779 when it was tion of historic artifacts. time heretics were presented as an organ- Kieran Street to rebuilt as a courthouse The society offers tours Parliament Street. and the current facade and a gift shop with a vari- ized group and thus, set off the witchcraft was constructed. Now ety of books and litera- craze in Northern Europe. Modern medi- look directly across the ture. Continue down cine suggests the symptoms of her dying street at the large stone Parliament Street. husband, an emaciated body, devoid of building. body hair, match those of arsenic poison- ing.

9 10 Smithwick’s is brewed at Kilkenny’s THE HOLY SITES Saint Francis Abbey Brewery

Is it Catholic or Protestant? DETOUR The history of Christianity in Ireland is long and turbulent. Missionaries such as Saint Patrick brought Christianity to Celtic Ireland in the 5th century. In the 12th century, Catholic Anglo- Norman nobles took control of Ireland making it subject to English rule. By this 12 Saint Francis 13 Saint Francis Abbey 14 Saint Canice’s The Bishop’s Palace time Ireland had become known as the Abbey Brewery now is visible to your right Cathedral was built in was built as the “Land of Saints” and numerous monaster- houses the Smithwick when you reach the stop- the 13th century on the Episcopal palace dur- ies were already formed. Brewery (pronounced light. Founded in 1232, it site of a 6th century ing the 1350s and In the 16th century, England’s Henry Smit-icks). The arch and was desecrated by monastery founded by remodeled in its current VIII broke from the Catholic Church and alley named “The Ring,” Cromwell in 1650. The Saint Canice. William Georgian design in demanded all his subjects convert to the which leads to both the abbey is located within Outlawe, son of the 1736. The building and friary and the brewery, is the brewery complex, and Kilkenny Witch, financed its gates are currently Protestant Church. Thus began centuries often called “Heaven’s it is recommended that a new lead roof for the being remodeled to of fighting with the Irish. England pre- Gate.” Established in those desiring a closer bell tower to avoid sen- accommodate the vailed and introduced severe laws that 1710, the brewery is now look should make prior tencing in his heresy trial. national headquarters reduced the rights of Catholics. owned by Guiness and arrangements with the It collapsed shortly after of the Heritage Council. The enforcement of these laws varied brews Smithwick’s, brewery. After the inter- in 1332, and in 1650 Adds 5 minutes between communities, but that changed Kilkenny and Budweiser section, you will cross a Cromwell’s troops used it roundtrip when Oliver Cromwell arrived in 1649. beers. The monks of the wide, inconspicuous as a stable. The round Saint Francis Abbey are bridge. This was the bor- tower, built in 1100, is Cromwell traveled the country closing, reported to have been der between Hightown Kilkenny’s oldest building, destroying and/or converting all Catholic expert brewers all the and Irishtown. Walk to the and visitors are allowed churches by any means necessary. All way back to the 13th end of Parliament Street, to climb to the top. The monasteries were closed, and their con- century. A video presen- cross Dean Street and climb is not for the weak tents seized. tation in the atmospheric take the steps to Saint or claustrophobic. From In the 1790s, Catholics regained the basement offers free Canice’s Cathedral. At the here follow the road rights to own land, vote, marry samples every afternoon church gate you may back to Dean St. You in the summer months. choose to take a detour may detour to Kenny’s Protestants and practice law. Although 90 Continue down to visit the Bishop’s Well or cross Dean St. percent of the population was Catholic, Parliament Street to the Palace. and take narrow road to the Protestant gentry maintained all posi- stoplight. Abbey St. tions of power. As a result, Catholics did not reclaim their churches, but built new ones instead. As a result, most Protestant Churches one visits in Ireland today were once Catholic.

11 12 Stone coffins outside THE GUARDIANS OF THE CITY The Black Abbey

For several years, Marty the Dominicat has guarded the courtyard of the Black Abbey. The friendly black and white tabby not only resembles a robed Dominican friar, but he is also named after Dominican St. Martin DePorres. People working in and near the abbey keep Marty fed. In return, he greets 15 The Black Abbey 16 Old City Walls and 17 New Building Lane abbey visitors with a nudge and a purr. was built outside the city Black Freren Gate pro- side the front door, Marty often patrols name from the black city’s old fortifications. the stone coffins on display in the court- habits worn by the About 1,450 meters of Follow New Building yard. The coffins were discovered among Dominican monks. In wall enclosed the seventy Lane. It will merge with the ruins while the abbey was being reno- 1543, after the dissolving acres of land known as Abbey Street at the vated. It is believed that these coffins of all monasteries, it was Hightown. The walls were Black Abbey. Turn left converted into a court- built of local limestone. on Black Mill Street. belonged to wealthy Norman settlers who house. After 1650, it was Black Freren Gate (Black Marty the Dominicat felt that like stone homes, stone tombs left a ruin until being Friars’ Gate) is the only watches over the were considered signs of distinction. Black Abbey restored in 1866. The surviving gate to the city. abbey contains contempo- It was a minor entrance rary and 14th century win- to Hightown and allowed dows and its “L” shape the friars, who had their floor plan results from new own keys to the city, to structures built over the come and go as they north transept while the pleased. The metal abbey was in ruin. Walk beams on the gate were up Abbey Street to the recently added for preser- arched entrance; notice vation. Continue up the remnants of the Abbey Street and follow medieval walls. the path the monks would have used. Turn right on Parliament Street, and turn right again on New Building Lane.

DETOUR Kenny’s Well, associated with Saint Kieran or Kenny, offers a pleasant walk through Irishtown. From St. Canice’s, follow Coach Road down the hill, cross Dean Street, turn right on Dean Street and take note of the homes with fine Georgian doors on your left. Stroll through the small patch of green space located near the roundabout before crossing Dominic Street. Kenny’s Well is located just beyond The Well Food Market on Kenny’s Well Road. The well once supplied water for the Black Abbey. The cell built around it is believed to date to the 8th century. Adds 15 minutes 13 14 Photo of St. Victoria’s Relics

The wax-encased relics of St. Victoria displayed in St. FIGHTING CATS OF KILKENNY Mary’s Catholic Cathedral The source of the popular expression “fighting like Kilkenny cats” is unknown, but many theories exist on its origins. The proceedings of the meetings of Parliament and the frequent squabbles between Hightown and Irishtown have both been given credit. However, the most likely his- tory stems from a sport common with the 18 James Stephens 19 Saint Mary’s 20 Capuchin Friary 21 IRA Plaque placed soldiers stationed here during a rebellion in Home, located at #38 Catholic Cathedral, was built in 1847. An off- on the corner of the 1798. Two cats were tied together at their Blackmill Street, housed located at the top of the shoot of the Franciscan building next to the friary tails and thrown across a line and left to one of Ireland’s early cru- hill, stands as the tallest Friars Minor, Capuchin is commemorates two IRA fight their way free. saders for independence. structure in Kilkenny. short for the Italian word soldiers who were killed Commanders quickly banned the sport, Stephens, 1825-1901, From Blackmill Road you scappuccini or hermits. 1921 in Kilkenny and helped catfight and sought to confront the perpetra- cathedral. Notice the Ireland in 1615 and Follow Friary Street create a secret organiza- entrances to the crypts emphasize a modest until it joins Parnell and tors. An offending soldier heard his tion called the Irish below (one crypt has a lifestyle and focus much New Streets. Turn left on approach and cut the cats free with a swing Republican Brotherhood particularly interesting of their efforts on being New Street. If you are of his sword. When the officer arrived at the and its U.S. counterpart, skull and cross bones). confessors and confi- looking to end your tour scene, only two bloody tails were left dan- the Fenian Brotherhood. Built between 1843 and dants for people in their early, this would be a gling from the line. The misguided officer They recruited and 1857 amidst the Great time of need. For this good point to stop and believed the cats had fought until only their trained soldiers to fight Famine, the design is reason, there is a bell return to the Kilkenny for Ireland’s independ- tails remained and hence the famous rhyme based on the English inside the front door of Design Center or High ence. Stephens was Gothic cathedral of the church. Ring it, and a Street. was born: arrested for conspiracy Gloucester, but due to friar will dutifully take There once were two cats in Kilkenny, but escaped on a ship economic constraints, it is your confession. Each thought there was one cat too many, bound for France by believed the nave was So they fought and they hit, dressing as a lady’s shortened. They scratched and they bit, maid. The U.S. Civil War St. Mary’s houses a Till excepting their nails, interrupted the groups’ number of notable stat- And the tops of their tails, flow of U.S. backed ues, mosaics and the financing, but independ- Instead of two cats relics of Saints Clement, ence was eventually won Cosmos and Damien. There weren’t any. in 1921. However, the most unusual is the wax- SAINTS VICTORIA & ANATOLIA encased relics of Saint Arranged for marriage to noble Roman pagans, sisters Veronica on display under a side altar. The Sacred Victoria and Anatolia refused to marry and devoted their lives to Heart Altar, statue and God. Their angry suitors had them tortured in hopes of breaking altar rails are credited to their faith. Refusing to worship idols, the sisters were executed. the Marble Works of Their guard, so moved by their example, converted before he James Pearse, father of too was executed. Legend states Victoria’s executioner was Padraig Pearse, a leader immediately struck with leprosy and died six days later, eaten of the1916 Rebellion. by worms. The story is suspected to be pious myth. Enter the church from James St. To continue, St. Victoria’s wax-encased bones and a chalice of her blood follow James St. to High were a gift from the Pope in 1845 in honor of the consecration St. and turn right. Turn of St. Mary’s Cathedral where the relics are now housed. right again at Friary St. 15 16 Plaque honoring Bishop Brownrigg dis- THE FLYING GREY MARE played in St. Patrick’s Church

The Kilkenny Hunt Club was well known for boisterous evenings. Simon Morris, who was manager of the Hotel in the 1860s, recalls a particular night: “A celebrated grey mare was the subject of discussion. A bet of £50 made by Mr. Courtenay, the owner of the mare dared that he would ride up the two flights of stairs, 22 Talbot’s Bastion 23 St. Patrick’s Church 24 Club House Hotel into the club room and jump over the screen. Talbot’s Bastion is the was built in 1899 under served as the “club Mr. Courtenay went to the stables and last remaining turret that the guidance of Bishop house” for the Kilkenny demanded the animal. He started on his per- once guarded the walled Brownrigg. Thirteen Hunt Club, founded in ilous escapade, then up one flight of stairs, city. Few remnants of the years earlier he had invit- 1797. The club became turned the landing and faced the second original fortifications ed the Sisters of St. John the horse switching sta- flight. remain. One other turret of God to establish a tion on the Cork to Dublin and four wall-towers pro- convent on the site. The stagecoach. As club Not faltering, a slip of the iron hoofs on tected the city’s west sisters remain at St. membership dwindled, the brass protectors of the stairs caused wall. In contrast, there Patrick’s, as does Bishop the guest rooms and din- every eye to strain, every heart to beat wild- were no such battle- Brownrigg. His remains ning room were opened ly. ments on the city’s east are buried in front of the to the public. Legend has The door was reached and the whole side because the River altar. If you visit the it that on a bet Mr. assembly at the banquet, with gaping eyes, Nore provided adequate church, be sure to note Courtenay of County beheld their equine guest. All the voices in protection. Look at the the unique choir loft and Cork rode his mare DETOUR church diagonally across through the second story the room were raised to stop the foolhardy the gold plate honoring the street from Talbot’s Bishop Brownrigg. From window to the street venture. The leap was placed so he could Bastion. here you may choose a below without injury. jump it from the door, towards the front win- detour to the grounds of However, the true story is dows. Only now the imminent danger St. Kieran’s College or believed to be told on the became apparent. Would the animal first turn up Ormond Road. opposite page. clear the screen, then rush through the win- 25 dow and on to the street sixty feet below? Butler House was built about 1780 for the St. Kieran’s College, Servants shrieked; the mare’s own groom built in 1836, served as widowed countess of a seminary until 1994. offered his last entreaty to stop his master. Ormond. Without a prop- It now houses the All to no purpose. The course was clear - er heir, the castle and National University of AWAY! And the house reverberated from the family wealth passed to Ireland Maynooth shock. The mare well jumped it, but the her nephew, the 16th Kilkenny campus. stake was not won. She touched the screen in Earl of Ormond. The Adds 15 minutes passing. widow was assured life- long housing and a Again the screen was arranged. This time stipend; this share in her the position changed so to avoid the possibil- husband’s estate was ity of the animal bounding on to the street. known as her dower. The The signal was given, and, with a noble streetside is simple, but jump, the grey mare cleared the screen, the courtyard garden greeted with the shouts of an alarmed and shows more character. amazed audience.” Access to the courtyard Adapted from Hotels of Ireland by Frank Corr can be gained from the Kilkenny Design Centre (Stop 2). Butler House is now a B&B. 17 18 WALKING SAINT JOHN’S The suburb of St. John’s, known as Photo of Photo of “the continent” Tynan’s because it lies across Kilkenny the water from the Bridge College rest of Kilkenny, House Bar provides a different perspective of the town. Although the A Tynan’s Bridge B John’s Bridge con- C E Wind Gap provides a F St. John the area is primarily res- House Bar, located on a nects St. John’s with the began as grammar view of the city very few Evangelist Church, built street once an exercise rest of Kilkenny and school established before tourists see. With views in 1908, was constructed idential, walking St. run for horses, has been offers a picture-perfect 1539 beside St. Canice’s. of the castle and St. with money willed by John’s provides its around since the 18th view of the castle and It moved to this location Canice’s Cathedral, this Martin O’Loughlin who own bit of history. century and in the same the River Nore. in 1684 and served as a panorama was common emigrated and prospered This tour begins in family since 1919. The Originally built after university for six months in 19th and 20th century in the gold mines of one of Kilkenny’s front bar displays 1200, John’s Bridge was in 1690. The current paintings. Across the Australia. Built near the historic pubs, cross- shelves, scales and destroyed and rebuilt building, built in 1782, street from Wind Gap is churchyard of an earlier es the River Nore memorabilia from the after the great floods of was transformed into the the home of John Banim, St. John’s Church (the old days when it doubled as 1487 and 1763 (as was County Hall in 1985. Its 1798-1842. Considered cemetery is nearby), the and gradually climbs a grocery and pharmacy. the Green Street Bridge pupils included Jonathan “Ireland’s ” building was extensively to scenic Wind Gap. The U-shaped bar, tile to the north). The pres- Swift, 1667-1745, author Banim’s series “Tales by remodeled in 1984 and This tour takes about floor, gas globe lamps ent bridge was the of Gulliver's Travels; his- the O’Hara Family” pro- features Victorian tiles, an hour (longer if and brass fixtures give a longest single span torian Richard Stanihurst, vides a historic look at beautiful windows, inter- you add Lacken Victorian ambience that ferro-concrete (rein- 1547-1618; philosopher Kilkenny’s poverty and esting organ pipes and Walk). makes this is an ideal forced concrete) bridge George Berkley, 1685- hierarchy in the 18th and visitors are encouraged to spot to enjoy locally- in the British Isles at the 1753 and Admiral David 19th centuries. Banim is look for angels among the brewed Smithwick’s or time of its completion in (later Earl) Beatty, 1871- buried in nearby St. ornamentation. Kilkenny ales. 1910. 1936. John’s cemetery.

D Maudlin Castle, a F Lacken Walk, located G St. John’s Abbey name derived from at end of the Wind Point was built by Augustinian Magdalene, guarded the viewing spot, takes you Monks in the 13th centu- entrance to the Hospital down a narrow, stepped ry and served as the of St. Mary Magdalene. path to Lacken’s Well and parish church of the sub- The hospital dates back onward to a riverside urb of St. John’s. to at least the early 14th path. It can be quite iso- Because of its continu- century, and the castle is lated, so use caution, ous run of windows on all that remains. By 15th especially on uneven ter- the east wall, it became century, the hospital was rain. The rustic nature known as “the lantern of funded by urban rents trail becomes less mani- Ireland.” and the best room was cured as you go; back- reserved for the sover- tracking is necessary to eign of Hightown. return to Wind Gap. 19 20 EATING, DRINKING & SHOPPING SITES AROUND KILKENNY

This area will describe some suggested stops for restaurants

Jerpoint Abbey, built in Kilfane Glen and Dunmore Cave, famous the12th century by the Waterfall offers a pictur- for a massacre that took Benedictines, features esque walk through the place inside. Guided unique stone carvings on gardens and a view of an tours of this Duchas the pillars of the cloister artificial waterfall and (Irish Heritage) site take that provide a unique rustic cottage. visitors into the gaping look at 14th and 15 cen- mouth of the cave and tury life. Bennettsbridge, home share historic and geo- of Nicholas Moss logical story of the cave. Kells Priory is a spec- Pottery, has become a tacular complex of ruins. popular destination for Founded in the 12th cen- Irish crafts. tury, this Augustinian pri- Distance to: ory offers an almost end- Duiske Abbey was 177mi (284km) less assortment of 13th restored in the 1970s to Cahir 42mi (67km) to 15th century buildings, create a medieval church Cashel 47mi (75km) walls and towers to that accommodates a Clonmel 32mi (52km) explore. The best way to modern liturgy. Local Cork 92mi (148km) enter the priory is from craftspersons paid spe- Dublin 73mi (117km) the old mill located near cial attention to medieval Galway 107mi (172km) the Kings River. construction methods, Killarney 123mi (198km) going so far as using Limerick 70mi (113km) Kilree Abbey offers a wedges and dowels Rosslare 61mi (98km) quiet ruined church with instead of nails. The site Shannon 75mi (119km) a well-preserved round includes a visitor center, Waterford 30mi (48km) tower. giftshop and two high Wexford 50mi (80km) crosses.

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