Tokyo on a budget Tokyo’s reputation as an expensive city has been grossly exaggerated. Sure, there are muskmelons that cost ¥20,000 and kaiseki meals that set you back twice as much. But even without a corporate expense account, Tokyo can still be rewarding – you don’t have to break the bank to have an enjoyable time in the city. Inside Remember, one of Tokyo’s greatest cultural attractions are its elegant temples – from the iconic Sensoji Temple to the graceful Meiji Shrine – and they don’t cost a thing. Beyond that, we have compiled a list of 30 of January – March 2020 the best free things to do in the metropolis that are well worth your time, including concerts, tours, observation decks, museums and galleries. After seeing the sights, you can take the money you’ve saved and spend it on some of the best food in the city with a price tag of ¥1,000 or less. Live life to the full in one of the world’s greatest cities at a pinch. Yes, it’s possible – and in this issue we’ll show you how. â Do Tokyo for free and on the cheap with our tips on p20 Dusk till dawn What to do in Tokyo when you miss the last train PAGE 40 â YELO The big feast The best all-you-can-eat and -drink deals in Tokyo PAGE 50 â

Just for you Icon of Japan Bespoke gifts, souvenirs Where to get the best and fashion views of Mt Fuji PAGE 52 PAGE 68 â â

FUJIYOSHIDA TOURISM ASSOCIATION TOURISM FUJIYOSHIDA

â FEATURES AND REGULARS 06 Tokyo Update 10 Courtesy Calls 14 To Do 20 Tokyo on a Budget 40 Up All Night 44 Temples for Good Luck 48 Eating & Drinking 52 Shopping & Style 54 Things to Do 58 Art & Culture 62 Music 64 Nightlife 66 LGBT 67 Film 68 Travel & Hotels 72 Getting Around 74 You Know You’re in Tokyo When…

Cover Editor-in-Chief Mari Hiratsuka Editorial Assistant Staff Photographers Aya Ito Advisor ORIGINAL Inc. Art direction: Steve Nakamura Lim Chee Wah Shiori Kotaki Youka Nagase Keisuke Tanigawa Phillip Huey Masashi Takahashi 101, 5-9-9 Hiroo, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 Contributing Editor Tabea Greuner Designers Kisa Toyoshima Paul Clark Executive Vice President +81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.com/tokyo Marcus Webb Jessica Thompson Yuki Masuko Administration Ili Saarinen Akiko Toya Advertising and general enquiries: [email protected] Editor Emma Steen Chikako Fukui Momo Ando Leo Kaku President/Publisher Kaila Imada Kasey Furutani Yuko Odanaka Creative Solutions Aidan McFarlane Hiroyuki Fushitani Time Out Digital Time Out Group CEO Staff Writers 77 Wicklow Street, Julio Bruno Hisato Hayashi Zineb Bektachi Mao Kawakami Reina Iwabuchi London, WC1X 9JY Kunihiro Miki Founder Saiko Miyasato Naoki Shimao Hinata Matsumura www.timeout.com Tony Elliott

KISA TOYOSHIMA +44 (0)207 813 3000

5 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Tokyo Update

COUNTDOWN MOST GOOGLED Tokyo Why do so many Japanese people wear masks? TO TOKYO Update 2020

FIVE THINGS © TOKYO 2020

The 2020 Games are just around the corner and Olympic Tokyoites 2 fever is in full swing. Can’t wait a moment longer? Don’t worry, you don’t have to wait until July to enjoy the festivities. Tokyo 2020 organisers have announced the

The new National Stadium is ready for Tokyo 2020 KOJIMAAYAKO Designed by starchitect Kengo Kuma and his team, this elegant schedule for the Torch Relay, which will begin on March stadium in Meiji Jingu Gaien is the main venue for the Olympic and 12 with the lighting of the flame in Olympia, Greece and JUMP ON ANY TRAIN, walk down any street of visual presentation, perfectly healthy are talking end on July 24 during the opening ceremony, when the or enter any workplace in urban Japan and Japanese women may choose to wear masks Paralympic Games, hosting the opening and closing ceremonies, Olympic Cauldron is lit with the aforementioned flame. you’ll find many people hiding the lower half if they forgot or did not have the time to wear athletics and football events. We love the plant-covered facade and The torch will be transported to Japan by judo competitor of their faces. With so many people wearing makeup. Some people also put it on just to the fact that the eaves of the roof are made from wood collected from Tadahiro Nomura and wrestler Saori Yoshida, both gold surgical masks, it can make first-time visitors help maintain the skin’s moisture level, about Japan’s 47 prefectures. medal-winning Olympians, via a special airplane named to the country feel like Japan is one big especially in winter when the air is dry. Tokyo 2020 Go. hospital ward, or a nation of hypochondriacs, Somewhat inevitably, given its increased Starting March 26, the torch will tour the areas determined to keep germs at bay. Yet plenty usage, the surgical mask has become a 3 affected by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and of perfectly well everyday folk adorn their fashion item in its own right. A well-chosen tsunami. It will then continue its journey through all 47 faces with these medical masks daily. mask can represent alluring mystery, prefectures. Tokyo will be the last prefecture on the tour, So what’s going on? Sure, some of the allowing others to imagine the beautiful Snoopy is back in Tokyo culminating in a grand 15-day finale, which starts in mask-wearers are actually ill and want to face that hides behind it. When combined After a long wait, the new Snoopy Museum is finally open Setagaya City and passes through the 23 central wards in avoid spreading their germs. It’s a matter of with meticulously set hair and eye makeup, addition to the outer edges of the prefecture such as the common courtesy in Japan that people who the mask becomes part of an individual’s in Machida. Here you can look at the original comics of the Ogasawara Islands and western Tokyo cities like Hachioji. cough, sneeze, sniffle or just have general personal style. If you want to make a beloved beagle and his friends by Charles M Schulz and sign Anyone is welcome to watch the Torch Relay – which lurgies should cover up to avoid spreading statement, you’re going to eschew a standard up for fun workshops for some Snoopy-themed DIY. There’s a sees local residents act as torchbearers in every town it their nasties to those around them. Others bland white mask. Instead, you can find Peanuts Cafe here, too. passes – and enjoy the celebratory atmosphere of the may choose to wear a mask to avoid hay fever colourful face-coverings such as character upcoming Tokyo 2020 Olympics. nKasey Furutani or pollen allergies, which are rife in Japan. masks, which are sold in speciality shops But common courtesy in this country and sometimes seen wrapped around the goes beyond just avoiding contagion. In a mouths and noses of hip young millennials. 4 5 à For torch relay schedules, check tokyo2020.org society that emphasises the importance nXiaochen Su

KUREMO/DREAMSTIME THE VIEW FROM YOU 1 ARTITWPD/DREAMSTIME Goodbye to Harajuku Station Shimokitazawa: number two hipster haunt ‘Tis the season for shabu-shabu On the Due to fire and safety concerns, A panel of more than 27,000 global citizens (through the Cold nights equal hot pots. We Tokyoites are Tokyo’s oldest wooden station, latest Time Out Index survey) and Time Out city experts keeping warm in winter with this local delicacy streets of built in 1924, will sadly make way have reached the conclusion that Shimokitazawa is the and you can too – with our list of the best for a modern and bigger structure second coolest neighbourhood in the world (after Arroios shabu-shabu in the city through the link below. Shibuya Crossing Nihonbashi Shinjuku in Lisbon). The district is celebrated for its creative vibes, àtinyurl.com/TOTshabu Tokyo By @l.shutter By @bootsmanphotos By @stylepool_deniz after the Tokyo 2020 Games. walkability and diverse mix of indie businesses.

àtinyurl.com/TOTshimokitazawa NATIONAL STADIUM: COURTESY OF JSC. AS OF 1ST NOV 2019 Send us your best Instagram photos of the city with #TimeOutTokyo

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 6 7 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Tokyo Update Tokyo Update

ONE DAY IN… EAT WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH... UDON OYOBE Inspired by their father, who travelled across Japan to master the craft of making udon, the Oyobe brothers’ Sangenjaya eatery offers a diverse and creative Sangenjaya selection of noodles. The calming, softly lit timber interior has counter seats overlooking the open kitchen as well as a smattering of tables. The udon machine sits in one corner, chugging away to produce fresh strands of snow-white noodles. SHOKUPAN Sangenjaya was a place for We love the kara tantan, which sees chewy, springy noodles served in a rich and eating and drinking back in spicy broth, topped with thinly sliced beef, cabbage, scallions and a boiled egg. the Edo period (1603-1868), à2-23-5 Taishido, Setagaya (Sangenjaya Station). 03 3421 6556. oyobe.jp. 11.30am-2pm (until It looks like a boring white loaf to me...

2.30pm on Sat, Sun & hols), 6-11pm, closed Mon & 4th Tue of the month. YUKI NAKAMURA Sourdough and wholewheat-loving bread snobs often and these days it remains sneer at white bread but shokupan is the king of the true to the cause. The area LOS TACOS AZULES loaves here in Japan. Also known as milk bread, it’s a is packed with restaurants, Born in Mexico, owner and head chef Marco Garcia weaves seasonal Japanese rectangular block of white bread revered for its soft, ingredients through traditional Mexican dishes at this stylish taqueria. Think ayu cloud-like fluffiness and milky sweetness. cafés and bars: hotspots (sweetfish) taco, shiso salsa and guacamole topped with shirasu (whitebait). include the Sankaku Chitai Marco also imports corn from his homeland, which he grinds freshly in-house every So it’s an artisanal version of a white loaf then? alleys, along Chazawa Street day and makes into tortillas, which are then cooked on a flat plancha grill in front Sort of, but baked with an unusual process. The towards Shimokitazawa, and of diners. For dinner, there’s the reservation-only omakase courses (from ¥4,500) secret lies in the water-roux technique known as the of tacos, tostadas, tamales and more, plus a small a la carte menu for walk-ins. On tangzhong method, in which a small amount of flour is the meandering web of lanes weekends, brunch is served from 9am to 3pm. cooked with water or milk to create a base. After that, a south of Sangenjaya Station. à1-17-9 Kamiuma, Setagaya (Sangenjaya Station). 03 5787 6990. lostacosazules.jp. 6pm-11pm, simple combination of basic ingredients – flour, milk, By Jessica Thompson Sat 9am-3pm, 6pm-11pm, Sun 9am-3pm, closed Mon & Tue. butter, yeast, salt, sugar and sometimes eggs – results in a sweet loaf with a delicate crumb, chewy mochi mochi bite, and thin, crisp exterior. SHOP Sounds like it’ll make a good sandwich... You’re right: just like a bowl of plain rice, shokupan is DESK LABO the perfect canvas for layering on different flavours and Owner Takuji Kannai curates high-quality, functional and fun textures. However, prized loaves are best savoured in stationery at this compact neighbourhood gem, which also stocks extra-thick slices to appreciate their texture and taste. zakka (homeware) from across Japan and the world. While shokupan is often sold whole in big loaves, here A reminder of the joys of an analogue life in an increasingly digital are three places where you can indulge in a dreamy slice world, Desk Labo boasts wonderfully-crafted pens and pencils, or three. nKaila Imada greeting cards, wooden lint brushes, calendars and diaries. Whether you want to jazz-up your workspace, buy a gift, get organised or simply be inspired by something beautiful – this is the place to do it. à4-28-9 Taishido, Setagaya (Sangenjaya Station). 03 3421 7409. 12noon- TANIGAWA KEISUKE 8pm, closed Wed. DRINK COMARU This lively little standing bar offers an excellent range of craft sake (from around ¥600 a glass), organic wines, beer and izakaya classics like highballs and sours (¥400-600). While the food menu is entirely in Japanese, you can always DO ask the staff for their recommendations (say the magic word: ‘osusume’). Otherwise, just go with our favourites: TEMPLE AND SHRINE HOPPING seasonal sashimi, the towering potato salad (¥500) and the Sangengaya is dotted with shrines and temples, and these crisp chikuwa (fish paste) and gorgonzola tempura (¥500). TANIGAWA KEISUKE KISA TOYOSHIMA pockets of spiritual reflection and impressive landscaping The payment style is ‘cash on’, ie place your cash in the LEBRESSO VIKING BAKERY F CENTRE THE BAKERY and architecture are a nice respite from the city buzz. If you wooden tray in front of you at the start of the night and the A spacious bakery-café, Lebresso turns out Tucked away from the busy streets of At this Ginza bakery and restaurant, eager have time to spare, seek out the Shoin Taishido Walk and staff will take the payment from there every time you order. hundreds of airy loaves a day and sells its Roppongi, this bakery serves up creative fans line up outside the store an hour before Jakuzure Green River Way. These leafy pedestrian paths à5-15-12 Taishido, Setagaya (Sangenjaya Station). 03 6804 0503. own range of fruit and milk jams. Aside from shokupan loaves as well as several other types opening just to get one of its coveted shokupan connect many temples and shrines in the area. marco.tokyo/shop_comaru.html. 6pm-2am, Sat 5.30pm-2am, KISA TOYOSHIMA the classic shokupan, it also offers seasonal of bread, including a 21-grain cereal loaf and a loaves. You have three choices including a If time is short, head south from Sangenjaya Station Sun & hols 5pm-11pm. MOON FACTORY COFFEE versions like chocolate chip, walnut and even San Francisco-style sourdough. The flavoured British-style bread made with a strong, dense to Saichoji Temple. It features an enormous, regal gate The hard-to-spot sign – look for the crescent moon at apple with sweet potato. While you can get a shokupan are the star here and depending flour that’s ideal for toasting, and another (bukeyashiki-mon) that was transplated from an Edo- street-level – and discreet entrance via a steep staircase loaf to go, we recommend you take a seat at the on the season, you can pick up a loaf made made with two types of domestic Japanese period residence which once belonged to a feudal lord. on the side of an apartment building all add to the café to enjoy some of its delicious and totally with hojicha white chocolate, cheese and flour that is best eaten untoasted. If you’re Nearby, the incredibly serene grounds of Kannonji Temple hideaway appeal of Moon Factory Coffee. Inside you’ll Instagrammable toasts, topped with avocado black pepper, or charcoal and dried tomatoes. eating in, get the set that lets you try all three, are abundant with greenery and dotted with cherry trees, find a homely all-timber interior, excellent coffee and a and bacon Caesar salad, chocolate spread, There’s a small seating area, so you can try accompanied by an assortment of butters, making it a popular spot come sakura season. To the north tranquil atmosphere, with blues music playing softly in banana and almonds, or the aforementioned out the bread with homemade sandwiches jams and spreads. You can even pick your own of Sangenjaya Station, the impressive Taishido Hachiman the background. The hand-drip brews are complex but jams. Or go simple: a wedge-like slice of knocked up on the spot. toaster, allowing you to toast your bread to your Shrine often hosts seasonal festivals and events (check its perfectly balanced, with prices ranging from ¥750 to ¥900. shokupan (about 5cm thick) toasted with à1-23-10 Minami-Aoyama, Minato (Nogizaka, Aoyama-Itchome, liking right at the table. Sandwiches are also event calendar at taishido-hachiman.or.jp/festivals). The homemade desserts are just as good, especially the butter and served with honey. Roppongi stations). 03 6455 5977. vikingbakery.jp. 8am-7pm daily. on offer, as well as shokupan toast topped with àSaichoji Temple, 2-11-6 Shimouma, Setagaya. cheesecake and chocolate cake (¥600). à3-5-6 Meguro Honcho, Meguro (Musashi-Koyama Station). 03 6712 melted cheese right off a raclette. àKannonji Temple, 4-9-4 Shimouma, Setagaya. àTokyo Terao Bldg 2F, 2-15-3 Sangenjaya, Setagaya (Sangenjaya 2780. lebresso.com. 9am-7pm (last orders 6.30pm), Sat, Sun & hols à1-2-1 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 3567 3106. 10am-8pm (last

àTaishido Hachiman Shrine, 5-23-5 Taishido, Setagaya. KISA TOYOSHIMA Station). 03 3487 4192. 1pm-1am, closed Thu. 8am-7pm (6.30pm). orders 7pm), closed Mon (Tue if hols).

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 8 9 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Advertisement feature

Courtesy Be one Calls Cab manners Taxis in Tokyo can be costly, with not to mention confusing – so here’s how to get a better ride. By Xiaochen Su the art teamLab Borderless brings humans and digital technology closer with interactive installations that bend the rules of the art world

he Mori Building Digital Art Museum: teamLab Borderless Multi Jumping Universe Tquickly became a sensation when it opened in 2018. Not only did A star is born inside the Multi Jumping Universe, a trampoline-like surface mimicking the zero gravity the museum connect artworks with feeling of bouncing through space. When you take the first step into the black sky, you immediately physical interaction, it also created a spring up. A galaxy begins to form and stars evolve from tiny gaseous lights into gargantuan suns new art phenomenon with its digital until a black hole eats them up and swallows the universe. As you bounce up and down, sometimes installations. It’s easy to get lost hovering a bit longer than you thought possible, nebulas and galaxies form under your feet, your body inside the 10,000 sqm complex, controlling the creation of the universe. where the rooms and artworks lack boundaries – hence the name ‘Borderless’. The museum has cemented itself as one of Tokyo’s top tourist attractions, having already welcomed over 2.3 million visitors, half of them from abroad. teamLab has also become well-known all AYAKO KOJIMAAYAKO over the world and recently opened their second permanent Borderless GRABBING A TAXI is the easiest nearest hotel, shopping centre or Don’t expect all drivers to work out cheaper than the train exhibition in Shanghai, China on way to get around a new city. But train station. Such high-footfall speak English. However, with or bus if you’re in a group. November 5 2019. there can be plenty of pitfalls locations are usually fronted by most taxis equipped with a That said, Haneda Airport, Light is the main source of wonder Animals of Flowers Born in the Flower Forest, Symbiotic Lives Forest of Resonating Lamps for Tokyo newbies jumping into taxi ranks, where cars for hire are navigation system, detailed which is closer to central Tokyo, in the digital installations, which one in a city where the diff erent awaiting. verbal instructions are usually is a favourable destination for also heighten your other senses, The artwork in teamLab Borderless tends to The Forest of Resonating Lamps appears from customs, technology and pricing not necessary. Write down the taxi-takers. That’s because a fl at- encouraging you to take in the artistic follow you on your trip through the museum. the sky and is reflected in the floor and sides of can baffl e fi rst-time users. Here DO: FOLLOW THE ETIQUETTE exact address of your destination rate applies to selected locations experience in a mindful state. Visitors Turn around and you’ll notice a moose or a bear the mirrored room. The lamps glow and dim, not are the main points to consider Riding a taxi, like many other in Japanese, or the name of within the metropolis, ranging can touch velvet walls adorned with formed by fully blooming flowers. Keep walking, on a repetitive loop but based on the physical when hopping into a Japanese everyday activities in Japan, the major landmark where you between ¥6,100 (to Chiyoda projected flowers or listen to dramatic turn around again, and suddenly there are a interaction between the observer and the lamps. taxi. is bound by social rules. After want to alight, and hand it to the ward) and ¥11,300 (to Musashino music while watching a strobe light million floating petals instead of an animal’s The colours, inspired by the seasonal gradients fl agging down a cab, you should driver. City), excluding toll charges show. The artworks are not timed shape. Much like these flowers, moments in life of traditional ‘Kasane no Irome’ (layered colours DON’T: JUMP STRAIGHT INTO A not open the car door yourself. and late night/early morning video projections but ‘living’ pieces bloom and wither away. So don’t feel bad if an found in silk), blush a shade brighter and then TAXI ANYWHERE Drivers have buttons that open DO: KNOW THE COST premium (10pm-5am). that respond to movement. Here animal explodes into a brilliant array of colours dim, as though they are breathing. Taxis are fi tted with a small the back door automatically (the Tokyo taxis are known to be the are three of the most engaging and as you’re caressing it – that’s just the cycle of life. digital display at a corner of door also closes automatically priciest in the region – so be DON’T: PAY TIPS interactive exhibits. the windshield showing their when you exit). Always sit in the prepared to cough up. The rate is Japan does not have a tipping current status. A red ‘空車’ back; the front passenger seat is ¥420 for the fi rst 1,052m and ¥80 culture and drivers neither (kusha) signals that the car is only used when the backseats for each additional 233m. A late- expect nor accept money in vacant and ready to be hired are fi lled. night surcharge of 20 percent excess of the fare displayed on while an orange ‘実車’ (jissha) While cordial, taxi drivers is added to trips between 10pm the meter. They will not accept means it’s occupied. will not tolerate customers and 5am. A ride into central haggling either. Cash is the safest Major thoroughfares usually attempting to overload their Tokyo from Narita airport, more way to pay, though an increasing have taxis aplenty and you can taxis. Smaller sedans will carry than 60km away, can cost up to number of taxis now also take How to get tickets MORI Building DIGITAL ART MUSEUM: teamLab Borderless fl ag one down pretty much a maximum of three passengers a whopping ¥30,000 one way, IC cards like Pasmo and Suica - Buy them online through the official website (ticket.teamlab.art), or at Lawson or 7-Eleven. Odaiba Palette Town, 1-3-8 Aomi, Koto, Tokyo (Tokyo Teleport, Aomi stations). anywhere as long as it’s not in the back. A group of more than while the same journey on a bus as well as credit cards. Look out - Tickets are sold for a specific day, but not for a specific time slot. Tel: 03 6368 4292 (10am–6pm) - Tickets for the following month go on sale in the middle of the current month. Website: borderless.teamlab.art obstructing traffi c. Hailing a taxi four should take two separate or train will usually only set you for the stickers on the door to - Same-day tickets can be purchased at the door, unless they are all sold out in advance. Weekdays 10am-7pm, Sun, Sat & hols 10am-9pm on a small local street however, cars or fl ag down a van-type taxi back between ¥1,000 to ¥3,000. identify the accepted payment - Please check the official website for other terms and conditions. Closed on 2nd and 4th Tue of the month

can be diffi cult. So walk to the instead. However, a short distance can methods. ART MUSEUM: TEAMLAB BORDERLESS, MORI BUILDING DIGITAL EXHIBITION VIEW, TEAMLAB, GALLERY © TEAMLAB. TEAMLAB IS REPRESENTED BY PACE TOKYO ODAIBA, 2018,

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 10 Advertisement feature Advertisement feature

LOCAL INSIGHT A designer’s darling The MTG-B1000XBD is the latest version of Casio’s popular MTG-B1000 G-Shock watch, packing cutting-edge Master of functionality, including smartphone linkage and time-signal reception, into a shock-resistant metal and resin body. Its carbon-fibre finish symbolises the G-Shock line’s familiar toughness, while the new focus on colour, materials and finishing adds a designer touch. Going beyond pure strength, precision and beauty, the MTG-B1000XBD stands out with its refined balance of all those elements. These are some of the materials highlights of Casio’s latest masterpiece. Designer Shinya Yoshida delivers his verdict on the new G-Shock

asio’s range of G-Shock watches just keeps on expanding, with several noteworthy new models having hit store shelves in 2019. Perhaps the Cmost in-demand of these newcomers is the MTG-B1000XBD, released in October to great acclaim. It boasts a remarkable wealth of cutting-edge features, including a Bluetooth-based time correction system, in a stylish black metal body complete with a layered carbon-fibre bezel. The attention paid to colour, materials and finishing shines through, making the MTG-B1000XBD both a top-of-the-line watch and a designer accessory. We sat down to chat about the new G-Shock with Shinya Yoshida, a car mechanic turned award-winning MTG-B1000XBD-1AJF MTG-B1000XB-1AJF product designer whose work has been recognised as far afield as Paris and ¥135,000 + tax ¥12 0 , 0 0 0 + t a x Milan. Yoshida, whose recent projects include designing the medal cases for culture of woodworking, washi paper, pottery, the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, took a particular interest in the creative use of various urushi lacquerware, gold and silver leaf and so materials in the MTG-B1000XBD. on, plus all the associated techniques. There’s a Layered carbon-fibre bezel Tough Solar functionality lot of attention paid to “feel” in Japanese culture. What was your first impression of Take washi for example: traditional paper-making Achieved by experimenting with Casio’s Tough Solar system of tiny solar cells responds the MTG-B1000XBD? emphasises imperfection and a balance of advanced pressing and cutting to both natural and artificial light, powering your watch on ‘I like the understated black carbon fibre on the standard and nonstandard to achieve a 1techniques, the MTG-B1000XBD’s multi- 3the go. Combined with a high-capacity secondary battery, it ensures the bezel, which really brings out its chequered distinctive feel. I sense this search for balance in layered bezel consists of thin carbon- and stable operation of the time display, alarm, backlight and all the MTG- pattern and keeps the gloss in check, making the MTG-B1000XBD, too. glass-fibre sheets. Its surface is decorated B1000XBD’s other high-performance features. for a nice balance. The matt feel and glossy ‘A watch consists of countless parts, making it with a pattern that makes use of the folds finish are beautiful, too. My roots are in the auto a true aggregation of technology. Watchmakers that typify carbon fibre, while the design of world, so I have this impression of carbon as the are limited to working with the 60-minute dial the black-and-red sides utilises the bezel’s Smartphone linkage epitome of toughness. Carbon fibre is difficult to and can’t depart from the sexagesimal scale, layering. This structure also strengthens the mold and cut, so I’m sure the engineers of this so getting the desired feel and impression is bezel itself, making it a symbol of the MTG- Linking the watch to your smartphone via Bluetooth allows for watch struggled quite a bit before figuring out very challenging. The designers of the MTG- B1000XBD’s next-level toughness. automatic time adjustment four times per day. When you travel how they could incorporate it into the bezel and B1000XBD have managed to not only incorporate 4across time zones, this functionality lets you see the local time with the body like this. But they’ve managed to complete carbon fibre, but also to achieve a hairline finish single push of a button. It also collects what must have been a very challenging with an impressive texture. It doesn’t feel cold Premium up-to-date time zone data from around design, and even incorporated red layers on like most metal materials and is pleasant against metal the world, including changes in daylight the bezel, bringing to mind layers of rock on a the skin. All in all, I think Casio’s designers have finishing savings time policies, and syncs it mountainside. The watch feels like a testament played with “feel” to great effect, fashioning with the watch’s internal registry, to Casio’s dedication to excellence.’ contrasts that still bring about an overall 2Sallaz polishing is applied allowing for time adjustment based balance. It’s a very Japanese approach, and one to achieve an exceptionally on the latest information. In addition, Besides functionality, the watch that builds on tradition.’ smooth mirror-finished smartphone linkage makes it possible stands out with its colour, materials surface on the watch’s sloping to use an app to easily adjust various and finishing (CMF). How do you For you, what is the role of design metal parts. The metal band settings on the MTG-B1000XBD. These approach these in your own work? and CMF in enhancing one’s features a combination of settings include time zone data for ‘Each material has a distinct colour and feel, lifestyle? hairline and mirror finishes, more than 300 cities around the world, so you can’t go about designing something ‘A product is about more than its function. effectively highlighting the and alarm and timer details. without taking those factors into account. I Wearing your favourite item can raise your spirits hardness of the material. think we’ve all seen a product we thought we’d and make an ordinary day feel special. This like in a catalogue or online that didn’t live up to applies to watches, too: they all serve the same expectations when we actually got to touch it. basic function, but are also the ultimate luxury “Feel” is something you can’t quite capture in a item. A watch means something special to its photograph, or even on video. owner. For me, aiming to live a life filled with ‘We have a wealth of words for expressing products you like and attach special meaning to à For more information on Casio’s latest timepieces and where to purchase yours, visit casio-intl.com CMF-related concepts here in Japan. There’s the is crucial for enhancing one’s lifestyle.’ TO DO

seabass rice bowls from Shimane and craftsmen in addition to the deer in autumn field (which is of other yaki-imo-flavoured prefecture or Tokachi Gyutoro thousands of amateur DIYers. gold-lacquered and inlaid with snacks and drinks. Taste a bunch raw beef bowls from Hokkaido, Shop for unique items at the mother-of-pearl) from Izumo to find your favourite, but keep in all for a mere ¥500. Stay until the markets (fashion, interior, Shrine, Shimane, as well as mind to arrive early – most stalls evening to sample different types handicrafts etc), learn a new skill archaeological finds including only operate until they sell out. of sake and beer from a selection at one of the many workshops (we bronzeware from the Kojindani àJan 27-Feb 2. Shinagawa Season Terrace, 1-2- DO of over 100 varieties. Need a break loved the candle and jewellery ruins in Shimane prefecture. 70 Konan, Minato. yakiimo.sonotega.com. Hours from all the eating and drinking? lessons last year), watch live àJan 15-Mar 8. Tokyo National Museum, 13-9 Ueno TBC. FREE. Then sit back and watch a painting performances, drop in Koen, Taito. izumo-yamato2020.jp. 9.30am-5pm, TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO showcase of highlights from up on the music shows, and fill up at until 9pm on Fri & Sat, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is TO to 20 popular regional festivals the food stalls. It’s a full-day affair. hols). ¥1,600, university students ¥1,200, high- from Aomori’s Nebuta Matsuri to àJan 11-12. Tokyo Big Sight West Hall 1 & 2, 3-11- school students ¥900, FREE for younger children. FEBRUARY What’s in town from January to March 2020 Akita’s Kanto Matsuri. 1 Ariake, Koto. hmj-fes.jp. 11am-6pm. One-day DON’T àJan 10-19. Tokyo Dome, 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo. ticket ¥1,500 (adv ¥1,300), two-day ticket ¥2,500 USOKAE RITUAL SENSOJI SETSUBUN FESTIVAL MISS tokyo-dome.co.jp/furusato. 10am-9pm, Jan 19 (¥2,000). The Kameido Tenjin Shrine Setsubun is held every year on 10am-6pm. ¥1,800 (adv ¥1,600) , Mon-Fri ¥1,400 isn’t just popular for its annual February 3, the day before the (¥1,200), evening ticket ¥1,300. chrysanthemum festival – the first day of spring in Japan. The grounds have hosted a unique festival involves the tradition ANTIQUE JAMBOREE Shinto ritual since 1820. of tossing soybeans at family The largest antiques market in Bullfinches are considered to members wearing demon masks THINGS TO DO Japan returns with 500 dealers bring good luck, and the shrine – this symbolic pelting is to drive specialising in artefacts and provides figurines in the shape out bad luck and bring good Bunkyo Ume Festival heirlooms from Japan, Europe of that little bird on January fortune to the house. Thousands and the US. This being the land 24 and 25. If you’re an annual have gathered at Sensoji Temple Every year, thousands of people of the otaku (anime and manga visitor, simply exchange your for the festival since the Edo visit Yushima Tenmangu to admire geeks), special attention is old figurine from the previous period (1603-1868) to chant ‘Oni reserved for collectors of vintage year with a new one. Otherwise, wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!’(‘Demons its 300-plus Japanese plum trees toys, collectibles, figurines and get started by picking one from out! Good luck in!’) as a form of blossoming in their bright pink the like. But you can also shop the large collection – the birds spiritual spring cleaning. You splendour. The shrine has been a for furniture from the Showa come in different sizes ranging might even spot a few Japanese era (1926-1989), Japanese between ¥500 and ¥7,000. All celebrities amongst the crowds. popular spot for ume viewing since antiques including Buddhist wooden figurines are handmade On this day, it is also customary the Edo period (1603-1868) and art, imari ceramic ware and by the shrine’s priests – luck, to eat giant makizushi rolls called events put on during the festival lacquerware, plus a large variety success and happiness sorted. ‘ehomaki’. The rolls are eaten range from shamisen performances of Western miscellaneous goods, àJan 24-25. Kameido Tenjin Shrine, 3-6-1 facing the year’s ‘lucky direction’, silverware, pottery, accessories Kameido, Koto. kameidotenjin.or.jp/events. so look for a stand selling the to ume bonsai displays. For a small and more. Tip: it’s worth hitting 8am-6pm. FREE. lucky snacks to complete your day fee, you can enjoy a Japanese tea the jamboree’s website for the IMPORTANT CULTURAL PROPERTY, ARMOR WITH RED AND WHITE LACING.15TH MUROMACHI CENTURY, IZUMO PERIOD SHRINE, SHIMANE. EXHIBITION PERIOD: JAN 15-FEB 9. of spiritual cleansing. ceremony in the garden as you take printable coupons that will knock IZUMO AND YAMATO SHINAGAWA YAKI-IMO TERRACE àFeb 3. Sensoji Temple, 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito. ¥200 off the ticket price. This Tokyo National Museum Sure, snuggling up with a blanket senso-ji.jp. FREE. in the beautiful late-winter scenery. àJan 10-12. Tokyo Big Sight, 3-10-1 Ariake, Koto. exhibition commemorates the and a roasted sweet potato in àFeb 8-Mar 8. Yushima Tenmangu Shrine, 3-30-1 Yushima, Bunkyo. kottoh-jamboree.com. 10am-5pm. ¥1,000 (adv 1,300th anniversary of the ‘Nihon hand is super comfy, but the real yushimatenjin.or.jp/pc/ume. FREE. ¥800); FREE entry on Jan 12 from 1pm. Shoki’ (‘The Chronicles of Japan’). way forward is to enjoy this Tokyo The historical text describes winter staple in the outdoors, HANDMADE IN JAPAN FES Izumo in Shimane prefecture as served steaming hot from a cart Art, crafts, fashion, accessories a place of the gods with countless – and this week-long event in and much more – it’s all here at sacred sites while Yamato in Nara Shinagawa lets you do exactly the annual Handmade in Japan prefecture was the dominion of that. The size of the festival area children aged 3 and older ¥500, ¥500 skate rental. festival, a massive two-day Japan’s leaders. Explore ancient is huge, so there will be plenty JANUARY ¥200 entry for those not skating. celebration of artisanal crafts Japan by browsing the relics and of stands covering sweet-potato and creativity, which attracts artefacts from these regions, types you wouldn’t usually be YOKOHAMA RED BRICK ICE-SKATING PARK AT over 3,000 artists, designers such as the cosmetic box with able to eat in Tokyo, plus all sorts WAREHOUSE ART RINK TOKYO SKYTREE TOWN Located at the Red Brick Glide at the foot of Tokyo Skytree, Warehouse’s event plaza, this where this rink opens up from popular and spacious ice-skating January until early March. It’s rink is back for its 15th run this particularly atmospheric after year. The theme this season dark when the surrounding FURUSATO MATSURI TOKYO is ‘Sweets Ice Rink’, with the illuminations are switched The annual Furusato Matsuri surroundings designed by Thai on – and you don’t have to be an (Hometown Festival) is a chance illustrator Wisut Ponnimit, experienced skater to take part for the residents of Japan’s other who has created a modern yet as there are one-on-one lessons prefectures to dazzle Tokyoites retro atmosphere featuring his (¥500) available. There’s also a with their regions’ unique adorable character Mamuang. mini rink made with eco-friendly cultures – and, of course, their When you need a break from the plastic for primary-school food. There’ll be stalls hawking ice, head to the nearby Hot Hot children and younger, plus a ©TOKYO-SKYTREE TOWN everything from sake to seafood, Café for some warm snacks such small snow area for the little ones. fun before spring comes along. with special sections devoted as panini or pizza. For professional figure-skating àJan 4-Mar 8. Tokyo Skytree Town 4F, 1-1-2 to fancy desserts and donburi àUntil Feb 16. Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse, performances, make sure to Oshiage, Sumida. 11am-8pm, Fri, Sat, Sun and hols rice bowls. The latter is part of 1-1 Shinko, Naka, Yokohama, Kanagawa. visit on January 4, when young 11am-9pm. ¥1,600, junior-high school students a competition, where regional akarenga-artrink.yafjp.org. 1pm-9pm, Sat, Sun & Japanese talents show off their and younger children ¥900; entrance fee includes donburi restaurants try to

hols 11am-9pm. ¥700, high-school students and skills. Get in some outdoor winter skate rentals. outdo each other – think rosy MASASHIONO/PIXTA FESTIVAL: UME BUNKYO

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 14 15 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo TO DO TO DO

For more illuminations YEBISU INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL ‘warlords’. Food and snacks ANIMEJAPAN 2020 has to offer, this is the only place 2,500 people to attend will receive FOR ART & ALTERNATIVE related to the history of samurai This two-day anime extravaganza you can admire the beautiful a free cup of amazake plus a raffle SEE MORE in Tokyo, see VISIONS 2020 as well as unique samurai-themed at Tokyo Big Sight attracts over scenery from below while cruising ticket to win local goodies and tinyurl.com/ The festival is a two-week- goods will be on offer at various 15,000 fans to its 241 booths each in Japanese-style boats. A pair snacks. We recommend hitting TIMEOUT.COM/ TOTilluminations long showcase of exhibitions, stalls for some ruthless shopping. year, with plentiful entertainment of shamisen players will also the nearby shopping arcade TOKYO screenings, events and live You’ll also have an opportunity such as talk shows, live music be travelling onboard while while you’re in the area to stock talks. This year’s theme is ‘The to try on samurai gear, and see if and cosplay parades happening performing ‘Shinnai-nagashi’, up on Japanese sweets, liquor THE SHINING Imagination of Time’ and the traditional armour stirs the throughout the day. In 2019, the a traditional Japanese tune that and souvenirs from longstanding the festival explores ways to warrior within you. organisers collected votes for will transport you back to the Edo mom-and-pop shops. Three of Tokyo’s most photogenic winter illuminations convey history as well as the àFeb 28-Mar1. Ueno Koen, 3 Ikenohata, Taito. which manga story the event period (1603-1868). Moreover, the àEnd of Mar. Amazaka Yokocho Shopping unpredictable future. The main fb.com/samurai.festa. 10am-6pm. FREE. attendees most wanted to see cherry blossoms will be lit up with Street, 20-3 Nihonbashi, Ningyocho, Chuo. exhibition is free, but some of animated, and the top nominees illuminations in the evening, and amazakeyokocho.jp. 11am-1pm. FREE. the other screenings and events will be revealed at this year’s event. there will be plenty of food and might have an entrance fee. One àMar 21-22. West & South Exhibition Halls, beer stalls lined up along PASSING ON CULTURAL HERITAGE: exhibit not to be missed is a video MARCH Conference Tower 6F, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto. anime- the route. BUDDHIST MURALS AND captured with an ultra-high- japan.jp/en. 9am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm). à Mar 24-Apr 11. Monzen-nakacho area, Koto. SCULPTURES OF HORYUJI speed camera that can record WASHOKU: NATURE AND CULTURE Admission TBC. ¥500 per 20-minute boat ride. Horyuji, a Buddhist temple things that are not seen by the IN JAPANESE CUISINE in Nara with one of the oldest human eye. Traditional Japanese cuisine, also wooden structures in the world, àFeb 7-23. Tokyo Photographic Art Museum, Yebisu known as ‘washoku’, has proved was struck by a fire in 1949,

© TOKYO MEGA ILLUMI Garden Place, 1-13-3 Mita, Meguro. topmuseum.jp. itself to be an important element which severely damaged several Tokyo Mega Illumination 10am-8pm (last day until 6pm). FREE. of cultural heritage ever since the 1,300-year-old murals from the The Oi Racecourse, aka Tokyo City Keiba, will be lit up during the ancient Jomon period. This large- Asuka period (593-710). At this evening races with colourful illuminations. What’s more, there will scale exhibition at the National special exhibition, you’ll be able

be a ‘time travel area’ featuring designs and artworks from the Edo, Museum of Nature and Science to marvel at reproductions of WALL PAINTING FROM KONDO HALL OF HORYUJI (NO. BY 10) SUZUKI KUNYO, TAISHO PERIOD, DATED 1922 (DAISEN CITY). ON EXHIBIT FROM MAR 13 TO APR 12 2020 Meiji, Taisho and Showa eras, as well as a 100m tunnel covered in introduces you to how washoku these murals. There will also be a lights, making it the biggest illumination in the Kanto area. has evolved, and the cooking OEDO FUKAGAWA SAKURA MATSURI AMAZAKE YOKOCHO SAKURA plethora of Buddha statues from àMar 13-May 10. Tokyo National Museum, àUntil Mar 29. 2-1-2 Katsushima, Shinagawa. tinyurl.com/TOTmega. Fri-Sun techniques and preparations that Fukagawa’s annual sakura MATSURI the Asuka period that survived the 13-9 Ueno Koen, Taito. horyujikondo2020.jp. & hols Jan 4-19 4.30pm-9.30pm, Jan 24-Mar 29 5.30pm-9.30pm (last entry have been in use throughout the matsuri takes place along Visit Ningyocho’s Amazake fire. This exhibition will be split 9.30am-5pm, Fri & Sat until 9pm (last entry 30 mins 8.30pm). ¥1,000, high-school, junior-high and primary-school students ¥500, years. The prologue, shown on the Ooyokogawa river, with a Yokocho to sip on a warm cup of in two parts: the first from March before closing), closed Mon except Mar 30 & May FREE for younger children. a large screen that takes up the seemingly neverending trail of amazake (a sweet fermented rice 13 to April 12, and the second 4. ¥1,200 (adv ¥1,100), university students ¥600 entire room, will explore how cherry blossoms in full bloom. Out drink) while admiring the various from April 14 to May 10, both with (¥500), high-school students ¥400 (¥300), FREE SAKANA & JAPAN FESTIVAL washoku has had an effect on of all the sakura festivals Tokyo types of cherry blossoms. The first differing sets of exhibits. for junior-high school students and younger. Succulent crab legs, salmon the world. You will then have an roe bowls and uni (sea urchin) opportunity to see specimens of croquettes are just some of the common ingredients like fish, mouthwatering bites you’ll find at seaweed and vegetables, along Advertisement feature the Sakana & Japan Festival. This with models, interactive videos e sizeable event held in Yoyogi Park and media art. KISA TOYOSHIMA is one of the city’s largest seafood àMar 14-Jun 14. National Museum of Nature o you tiket Rooftop Star Garden festivals, where you’ll be able to and Science Tokyo, 7-20 Ueno Koen, Taito. it ou ouo The rooftop garden at Ginza Six is piling on the romance for the feast on ocean favourites. Nabe washoku2020.jp. Admission TBC. o e winter season. The illumination features 147 sparkling LED pillars, (hotpot) and ramen made with which form a dazzling installation, with light shows synchronised seafood broth will make perfect things to do at to music. Meanwhile, the ‘forest’ area has been turned into a dishes to warm you up on a cold ‘star-filled galaxy’, with laser lights shooting through crystals winter day, while servings of more to create an immersive night scene. acquired flavours such as stewed à Until Feb 24. 6-10 Ginza, Chuo. tinyurl.com/TOTstar. ankimo (monkfish liver) will also obot estaurant Sunset-11pm daily. FREE. be on offer for serious foodies. àFeb 28-Mar 1. Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Located in the bustling abukicho nightlife district, obot estaurant Kamizonocho, Shibuya. 37sakana.jp/ is one of Tokyo’s most fascinating attractions. ere you’ll be treated to sakanajapanfes. Feb 28 11am-8pm, Feb 29 outrageous robot battles, energetic dancers with laser effects and crazily 10am-8pm, Mar 1 10am-6pm. FREE entry. over-the-top parades. Don’t miss these five things while you’re there.

RIKUGIEN CHERRY-BLOSSOM ILLUMINATION a a h h a a h h arca KISA TOYOSHIMA Rikugien is often considered h ar anc ychc un an n h Tokyo Dome City Winter Illuminations one of Tokyo’s most gorgeous r a h nranc 0 nu r har cr r One of the top illumination events in Tokyo in terms of scale, and landscape gardens, featuring a r cur r h an ach r cn h ry boasting hundreds of thousands of LEDs strung all around the traditional Edo period (1603- r n han h rn r an rahc rc r complex, Tokyo Dome City’s light-up has a traditional Japanese 1868) aesthetic. Its huge cherry rr cac h theme inspired by cherry blossoms, Mt Fuji, the Tanabata Festival trees, especially the majestic and more. You can also look forward to a 6m-tall lit-up yagura (high weeping variety, along with the wooden stage), traditionally used at Tokyo’s bon dance festivals in SAMURAI FES rest of the Japanese garden will h hu cca ach 0 nu ur ook o Get up close and personal with be lit up in the evening for this summer, and other quirky contraptions, while the restaurants and r ca n a c r raaana Shows start at 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7.30pm and 9.30pm on most weekdays and cafés around the facility offer special winter-themed menus. Japan’s ancient military force: annual spring special, which also hu-ha cu h n yur a a hr ar weekends. Reserve your seats online or by phone. A standard ticket is ¥8,500, àUntil Feb 26. 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo. tinyurl.com/TOTdome. this large-scale festival in Ueno sees the park staying open later a ahn h h chncur a, c anc excluding food and drinks. 5pm-12midnight. FREE. revolves around all things than usual. rc accry r h an c a n hun Shinjuku obot Bldg -- Kabukicho Shinjuku Shinjuku Station. samurai. There’ll be a host of àMar 19-Apr 7. Rikugien, 6-16-3 Hon-Komagome, an n r yur n . shinjuku-robot.com. pm-pm daily. Sho schedule subject to change. performances including sword Bunkyo. tokyo-park.or.jp/teien/en/rikugien. Until fights and showdowns between 9pm (last entry 8.30pm). ¥300.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 16 17 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Advertisement feature Advertisement feature

Parco Museum Human Made (1F) 5 Tokyo (4F) 6 Street culture pioneer Art, design and fashion and all-round Renaissance feature heavily in the man Nigo’s latest brainchild ambitious programme put sells T-shirts, hoodies, on by Parco’s own museum, socks, hats and other which boasts interiors street-ready gear until designed by up-and-coming 9pm, when it turns into a local lights Daisuke standing-only bar where Yamamoto and Yoshitaka you can sip rare sake from 10 things Tenmizu. The current exhibition on-brand cups decorated showing until January 6 is with the Human Made logo. you can’t miss at the called ‘Wanderlust’. 2G (2F) 4 2G is a fashion and toy shop, gallery and futuristic artwork all in one. The exhibitions are curated by long-established Shibuya gallery new Parco Shibuya Nanzuka, the clothing on sale is chosen by street style icon Motofumi ‘Poggy’ Kogi, and the ‘art Opened in 1973, iconic fashion megastore Parco toys’ completing the package come courtesy of had an outsize influence on the Shibuya culture Medicom Toy, creators of the Be@rbrick line. scene for decades, so its 2016 closure sent serious shockwaves through the neighbourhood. But things are now looking exciting again for Issey Miyake Shibuya (2F) Shibuya’s fashionistas: Parco made its long- 7 Just staring through the huge windows PRACTICAL TIPS won’t do – you’ll want to get in and try on all the awaited and glorious comeback on November 22 outlandish wear and gear from one of Japan’s 2019, when the complex was reborn as a next- most recognisable designers, whose Parco generation shopping hub. Its 193 shops offer a store includes brands such as Homme Plissé Cashless payments comprehensive selection of haute couture, street Issey Miyake (menswear) and Bao Bao Issey No need to carry cash – most shops at Miyake (bags and pouches). Shibuya Parco take credit cards and styles and everything in between, plus a fashion- also let you pay with other electronic forward mix of food, art, culture, entertainment means, including e-money and QR code- and technology, all in a shiny new building based systems. constructed right where the old Parco used to Ipsa (1F) 8 Ipsa can always be Smart multilingual advice stand. For a crash course on the most stylish Restaurant Seven (7F) counted on for its high-quality, Parco’s cutting-edge shopping shopping complex in Shibuya, check out the 10 3 Parco’s restaurant floor made-in-Japan skincare line information system is based on voice spots below. features outposts of seven and range of skin analysis recognition; ask your question in in-demand Japanese eateries, services. The Parco location English, Japanese, Chinese, Korean headed by Kanazawa’s Maimon stands out with its distinctive or Thai, and the answer will appear Sushi, where you get to indulge in inner-wall mural, which is hand- automatically on screen in your super-fresh seafood straight from painted anew for every season. language. There are seven of these the Sea of Japan. Other highlights smart info terminals in the building. include the vegan-friendly Falafel Brothers and Matsuo Jingisukan, More convenient payments which specialises in Hokkaido-style Geyser Parco (3F) and tax-free service grilled mutton. 9 Aiming to provide a space for up-and-coming designers Parco uses the DCC system for multi- and brands to strut their stuff, Geyser Parco hosts a periodically currency payments, which lets foreign Chaos Kitchen changing lineup of eight small shops. The Geyser logo and market tourists pay in their home currency 2 (B1F) space itself bear the signature of YAR, a creative collective led when using a credit card, as well as the A chaotic mixture of by Yoshirotten, one of Tokyo’s most in-demand art directors and Smart Detax app, which automatically food, music and street graphic artists. creates tax-exemption documents for culture awaits on the users who have scanned their passport first basement floor, with the app. where you can follow up a visit to an edgy art Rooftop Park (10F) gallery with some inspired 10Commune 2nd, the much-loved open-air cluster of conversation at a retro food trucks and artsy stalls just off the Omotesando crossing, Nintendo Tokyo (6F) café-meets-gay bar that is the force behind Parco’s certifiably laidback rooftop garden. 1 Fans of Japanese pop culture should head straight for stays open until the wee This oasis of street eats, punchy drinks and city views is set for the sixth floor. Here, Japan’s first official Nintendo store hours. Or you could opt for a late-December opening. entices with Mario and Zelda merchandise and free-to- a parfait with augmented play consoles loaded with the iconic game-maker’s latest reality features, or listen releases, while a remarkably real Mewtwo welcomes you to one of the over 3,000 à at Pokémon Center Shibuya next door. Don’t miss the records lining the shelves 15-1 Udagawacho, Shibuya collaborative ‘Super Mario meets Pokémon’ goodies, which at the Quattro Labo Opening hours: Shops 10am-9pm, restaurants 11am-11.30pm (precise hours vary) are available only at these two shops. music bar. OBSERVATION DECKS 30 FREE THINGS Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building 1 The government-owned towers of the Tokyo Metropolitan Building are a regular feature at the top of tourist to-do lists, and for good reason. The North (reopening mid-January) and South Towers each boast a free observatory on their 45th floors, which unveil jaw-dropping views of Shinjuku’s famed skyscraper skyline and beyond. Both towers feature a souvenir TO DO IN TOKYO shop as well as an affordable cafeteria – but the South Tower has the added distinction of housing an eye-catching yellow, polka- dot piano designed by Yayoi Kusama, which is free for anyone who might want to tinkle out an impromptu sky-high recital. à45F, 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku, Tochomae stations). tinyurl.com/TOTTMGB. 9.30am-11pm (North Tower closes 5.30pm). South Tower closed 1st & 3rd Tue of the month, North Tower closed 2nd & 4th Mon, Dec 29-31, Jan 2-3. TOKYO METROPOLITAN GOVERNMENT GOVERNMENT METROPOLITAN TOKYO Carrot Tower 3 Experience one more way that carrots can help you see in the dark, while taking in a spectacular free view of Tokyo from above. Carrot Tower got its name from the building’s orange façade, and is home to a free observation deck on the 26th floor, along with a restaurant and a more affordable café. Don’t expect close- up views of skyscrapers here as Sangenjaya, while just two stops away from Shibuya on the metro, is largely low-rise and residential – though the deck does make up for it with comfy sofas to sit on while enjoying the view. On a clear day, you might even get an unobstructed view of Mt Fuji. à4-1-1 Taishido, Setagaya (Sangenjaya Station). tinyurl.com/TOTcarrottower. 9.30am-11pm, closed 2nd Wed of the month.

Tower Hall Funabori 4 In providing views out over eastern Tokyo, this 115m-high observation deck is something of a rarity. From here you can see the traditional neighbourhood of Edogawa, where the tower is located, Kasai Rinkai Park and its ferris wheel, the Tokyo Skytree and Mt Tsukuba in the distance. The building, which houses offices, restaurants, concert halls and a cinema, is easily identified by its sailboat-like PIPA100/DREAMSTIME structure jutting into the sky. If you’re lucky, you might even see the occasional Put your wallet away: here’s how you Asakusa Culture and Tourist fireworks from Tokyo Disneyland and DisneySea. 2 Information Center à4-1-1 Funabori, Edogawa (Funabori Station). 03 5676 2211. tinyurl.com/TOTFunabori. 9am-9.30pm daily. It’s hard to miss the stunning Asakusa can enjoy Tokyo without spending Culture and Tourist Information Center designed by Kengo Kuma, located across Bunkyo Civic Center Observation the street from another visitor magnet, 5 Lounge Sensoji Temple’s Kaminarimon gate. This observatory can be accessed directly a yen, from concerts to museums and Besides offering free guided tours, from Korakuen or Kasuga stations without currency exchange and an information setting foot outside, making it a perfect desk, the eight-storey building also sports a option for when it’s raining. You’ll love the (covered) rooftop observation deck, which panorama of Shinjuku from the 105m-high from observation decks to brewery offers the best view of Sensoji without deck protruding from its spaceship-like having to jostle through the crowds. The office building, and more so because deck is open until 10pm so you can also the slanted windows reduce glare and tours (drinks included!). admire the grand temple lit up at night. reflection from sunlight. You’ll get Mt You’ll find exhibitions and cultural events Fuji on a clear day while dusk makes for a on the other floors but if you’re short of spectacular shot when the setting sun is battery power, best make a beeline for the in view – just keep your eye on the clock, By Tabea Greuner and Kasey Furutani street-facing counter on the second floor – Bunkyo Civic Center though, as the deck closes at 8.30pm even it’s fitted with electrical charging points. Observation Lounge though the building is open until 10pm. à2-18-9 Kaminarimon, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3842 5566. à1-16-21 Bunkyo, Kasuga (Korakuen, Kasuga stations). 03 5803

F11PHOTO/DREAMSTIME tinyurl.com/TOTAsakusaCTIC. 9am-8pm daily. 1162. tinyurl.com/TOTBunkyoCC. 9am-8.30pm daily.

21 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo TOKYO FOR FREE Complex 665 9 Established galleries MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Taka Ishii, Tomio Koyama and ShugoArts make up the three- storey Complex 665, along with Intermediatheque the showroom of Broadbean, a 13 Located inside the Kitte shopping mall across modern furniture and design from Tokyo Station, Intermediatheque (jointly run group, on the first floor. Tucked by Japan Post and the University Museum of the away from the hustle and bustle University of Tokyo) is a hidden museum dedicated of Roppongi, the warehouse- to the intersection of culture, history and science. It like building stands out from holds a fascinating collection of scientific specimens its surroundings thanks to a and cultural artifacts, from steampunk oddities to an distinctive white-spiral motif imposing menagerie from the natural world. You’ll on its exterior. The galleries stumble upon taxidermy birds and forest animals as are spacious and so you’ll find well as skeletons in all sizes, from a frog to a minke JAL hangar tour and Sky Museum

a wider variety of works here – AIRLINES JAPAN whale. Perhaps the most compelling exhibit, though, not just in scope and topic but is the story of humans’ evolutionary descent from size as well – compared to other our ape ancestors, told through progressively taller space-limited galleries in the JAL hangar tour and Sky Museum skeletons. Lovers of biology, history and design will neighbourhood. They have been 11 Japan Airlines’ hangar tour takes an hour and 40 enjoy wandering through the dimly lit halls that remind known to exhibit floor-to-ceiling minutes and is split into three exciting sections. First, at the you of Hogwarts’ library. 3331 Arts Chiyoda and wall-to-wall paintings as Sky Museum you will get an introduction to the airline’s history à2-7-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo Station). 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/TOTInter. 6 Wander in and out of well as realistic life-size human from its beginnings in 1951, and a sense of how commercial air 11am-6pm (Fri & Sat until 8pm), closed Mon. classrooms filled with art sculptures. travel has evolved in the decades since, with a fleet of miniature at 3331 Arts Chiyoda. The à2F, 6-5-24 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi aeroplanes and the changing fashions in flight-attendant former junior high school may Station). tinyurl.com/TOTcomplex665. uniforms over the past few decades. You can also take a seat in a still look like an educational Tomio Koyama Gallery, 11am-7pm; Shugo Arts, faithfully recreated cockpit while listening to announcements institution from the outside, 12pm-6pm; Taka Ishii Gallery, 11am-7pm. in different languages. but its interiors have been All galleries closed Sun & Mon. The second part of the tour gets a bit more technical as you get transformed to serve a very into the nuts and bolts of how air travel works and are given an different purpose. Each overview of Haneda Airport. The last part is what you’ve been classroom is dedicated to Mega Web History Garage waiting for: you’ll be guided into the hangar to see aeroplanes a gallery or creative space, 8 Car-maker Toyota’s theme park Mega up close, and watch the aeronautical engineers and mechanics whose occupants are free to Web doesn’t just have a showroom for its at work. experiment with the interior flashy new rides and a test-drive area – it àJAL Maintenance Center 1, 3-5-1 Haneda Kuko, Ota (Shin-Seibijo Station). 03 5460 3755. jal. any way they choose. As such, also features a two-storey exhibition filled co.jp/kengaku. Tours daily at 10am, 11.30am, 1pm, 2.30pm, 4pm (4pm tour will be suspended every room feels like a world of with vintage vehicles. At the History Garage from late Feb; online reservation necessary). Admission only for primary school students and older. its own: some simply display you’ll find 20 regularly changing exhibits VIEW OF THE INTERMEDIATHEQUE 2F PERMANENT EXHIBITION. INTERMEDIATHEQUE © paintings gallery-style while of domestic and international automobiles others fill the space with from the ’50s to the ’70s, and they are installations. Artists can often presented against an equally nostalgic Toto Gallery Ma be found in their classroom backdrop of a Tokyo cityscape from the 1960s. 12 Architecture aficionados rejoice: Toto Gallery Ma, galleries and are happy to For an even more engaging experience, head while bearing the name of its associated company – which Suginami Animation Museum explain their art. The first floor down to the first floor and meet the on-site is well known for its high-tech toilets – is dedicated to the 14 The Suginami Animation Museum by the Tokyo Polytechnic houses a bigger gallery where mechanics who restore and maintain all the art and design of buildings and physical structures, and not University is surprisingly engaging, with a host of hands-on experiences. large-scale exhibitions take classic cars you see here. You can watch them the household white porcelain thrones. Located in the Toto A visit makes for an excellent introduction into the world of Japanese place on a rotating basis, in at work – or, if you ask nicely between 11am Building, the gallery features changing exhibitions with anime, with exhibits focusing on the history and production of most addition to a café, gift shop, and and noon or 1pm and 6pm, they might even models, diagrams and sketches that focus on a particular Japanese anime including ‘Rascal the Racoon’, ‘Crayon Shin-chan’ and small playroom for kids. let you pop into the garage. architect’s or firm’s prototypes and projects. The exhibitions ‘Doraemon’. Through the interactive exhibits, you can dub over an ‘Astro Mega Web History Garage à6-11-14 Sotokanda, Chiyoda (Akihabara à1-3-12 Aomi, Koto (Tokyo Teleport, Aomi stations). 03 3599 0808. spill out to the outdoor space, where you climb stairs to get a Boy’ video, draw your own animation in a computer room and go behind Station). 03 6803 2441. 3331.jp. 10am-9pm megaweb.gr.jp. 11am-9pm (café last orders 7pm) daily. bird’s-eye view of the showpiece. the scenes to explore the production process. There’s even an anime daily. à1-24-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato (Nogizaka Station). 03 3402 1010. tinyurl.com/ library plus a small theatre playing anime shows on loop. English audio TOTOGma. 11am-6pm, closed Mon, hols & between exhibitions. guides and subtitles cover the exhibits and videos, keeping it tourist- Design Festa Gallery friendly, while the inclusion of both vintage and modern anime makes 10 Happening twice a year the museum fun for the whole family. at Tokyo Big Sight, Design Festa àSuginami Kaikan Bldg 3F, 3-29-5 Suginami, Kamiogi (Ogikubo Station). 03 3396 1510. sam.or.jp. is a multidisciplinary celebration 10am-6pm, closed Mon. Scai the Bathhouse of everything from painting to 7 Located a safe distance from Yanaka’s performance art, with up to 12,000 main shopping street is the singular Scai the artists and creatives participating Bathhouse. It’s easy to walk past the sento in each event. This gallery is the Meiji University Museum (bathing facility) without a second thought as the festival’s permanent outpost, 15 With its fascinating mix of exhibits across three departments – traditional architecture blends in with the quiet open throughout the year with 71 commodities, criminal materials and archeology – this basement attraction neighbourhood. But venture in, past the shoe exhibition rooms and spaces to in the huge Meiji University building is one of Tokyo’s best secret museums. lockers (a remnant from the building’s previous explore. With a unique concept The first section is dedicated to traditional Japanese handicrafts such as life) and you’re in for a pleasant surprise. Instead of allowing artists to display pottery, indigo-dyeing, bamboo work, washi paper and lacquerware. The next of dried-out bathtubs, the hollowed-out space and sell their works without any section, which is also the highlight, is where it gets really interesting. It reveals now hosts rotating contemporary art exhibitions commission fee, the exhibitions the torture procedures used in the second half of the 18th century to punish featuring a repertoire of local and international here are a constantly changing criminals, such as haritsuke (crucifixion), gokumon (displaying the head artists. Korean-born painter and sculptor Lee Ufan, roster. There’s also a bar and café on publicly after a decapitation) and ishidaki gougu (putting large rocks on the Japanese painter Tadanori Yokoo and American site, featuring more art on the walls. knees of a sitting person). As a contrast, there are also some historical Western artist Jenny Holzer have all presented their works àEast Bldg 3-20-2 and West Bldg 3-20-18 Jingumae, torture instruments including the iron maiden and the guillotine. There are here in the past. Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae, Harajuku stations). 03 3479 Meiji University Museum English explanations, too, should you want to read up on all the details.

Scai the Bathhouse MEIJI UNIVERSITY MUSEUM

à6-1-23 Yanaka, Taito (Nippori Station). 03 3821 1144. tinyurl.com/ COURTESY OF SCAI THE BATHHOUSE UENO. NORIHIRO 1442. tinyurl.com/TOTdesign. 11am-8pm daily; café à1-1 Kanda Surugadai, Chiyoda (Ochanomizu Station). 03 3296 4448. meiji.ac.jp/cip/english/institute/museum. TOTScai. 12noon-6pm, closed Sun, Mon, hols & between exhibitions. 11am-11pm daily. html. 10am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), irregular closing days.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 22 23 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo TOKYO FOR FREE TOURS FAMILY-FRIENDLY ATTRACTIONS

Narita Airport Transit & Stay Program Yumemigasaki Zoo 16 Airport layovers are hardly ever fun. So if you 21 Roughly 30 minutes from Shibuya, this tranquil have more than six hours to spare before your connecting zoo in Kawasaki combines animal-watching with a spot of flight, get out of the terminal and explore Chiba instead cultural activity as it also houses two shrines and a temple. with the free Narita Airport Transit & Stay Program OF JAPAN IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD AGENCY Established in 1972, it’s home to more than 50 types of offered by local English-speaking volunteers. There are animals including mountain zebras, llamas and penguins. five tours to choose from, including a cosplay experience The grounds are especially scenic in spring, when 400 and visits to the Edo-period (1603-1868) riverside districts Tour of the Imperial cherry trees are in bloom, making it the perfect spot for in Sawara, Tako Town’s paddy fields or Narita’s grand 17 Palace grounds a picnic. Its uphill location also offers a splendid view of Shinshoji Temple. Not only is this the best way to shake Occupying the site of the former Kawasaki city. off the drudgery of the departure lounge, it also gives you Edo Castle, which was also the The National Diet tour à1-2-1 Minamikase, Saiwai, Kawasaki, Kanagawa (Shin-Kawasaki Station). 044 588 a chance to discover the underappreciated Chiba, Tokyo’s residence of the Tokugawa 18 Bit of a political buff? 4030. yumemizoo.com. 9am-4pm daily. neighbouring prefecture where the airport is located. It’s shogunate, Tokyo’s Imperial Palace Educate yourself on the inner Tokyo Water Science Museum best to make an online reservation in advance – that way has been home to a succession of workings of Japanese democracy the guide can plan the tour to ensure you’re back at the emperors since 1868. While the East with a tour of the National Diet airport a good two hours before your flight. Garden is open to the public – and Building, the centre of political Tokyo Water Science Museum àDeparts from Narita Airport Terminals 1 and 2. narita-transit-program.jp. Tours from free – throughout the year, a tour of activity in Japan. There are two Nogeyama Zoo 23 It might not sound too promising, but this Koto ward museum turns 9am. Reserve your tour via the website or at the airport terminal counter; limited spots the palace grounds requires prior 60-minute tours: one for the 22 This fully fledged zoo, located H2O-related science into a fun and engaging topic using immersive displays and available, first come first served. online reservations. This will bring House of Representatives, which within Nogeyama Park on a hill interactive games. You’ll be greeted on arrival by the Wakuwaku Mountain and the you to historic premises such as the requires email reservations, overlooking Yokohama’s Minatomirai Ukiuki Pool, where kids can play with the spray guns and climb into an underwater former Privy Council building and and another for the House of area, was established in 1951, and is home observation post. In the small third-floor cinema, the walls and ceiling all become the Imperial Household Agency Councillors. We recommend the to 93 species. There are the big game a surround screen, on which you can follow the journey of water from the forest to Building (both constructed in former as the prior reservation animals such as lions, tigers and giraffes the city. The subsequent zones, all interactive, expand on the topics introduced the early 20th century boasting guarantees a time slot as well as to tick off your safari checklist, as well in the film: the Aqua Forest focuses on water in nature, Aqua Town explains how Western architectural designs), an English-speaking guide. The as pettable creatures the little ones can water is used in daily life and the staff conduct water-based experiments at the the beautiful Fujimi-yagura Keep tour runs once in the afternoon on get their hands on, including squeaking Aqua Lab. All of which goes to show that, while you might not have given it much and, of course, the Imperial Palace weekdays and you’re able to peek guinea pigs and tiny mice at the Nakayoshi thought until now, water science is anything but dry. itself. The steel-framed reinforced- into the House of Representatives Hiroba (numbered tickets are required; à3-1-8 Ariake, Koto (Kokusai-Tenjijo Station). mizunokagaku.jp. 9.30am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), closed Mon (Tue if Mon concrete structure was completed chamber and the Emperor’s check website for time slots). Don’t miss is hols). in 1968, using materials mainly Room, a lavish space which is the kagu; this greyish-blue bird with red produced in Japan. Tours are reserved for the monarch’s visits. eyes is originally from New Caledonia and, available in English and note that The Roman-style architecture in Japan, can only be seen at Nogeyama you can’t step inside the buildings. and sumptuous interiors are Zoo. The relaxing grounds are also àKikyo-mon gate, 1-1 Chiyoda, Chiyoda (Otemachi enough to win any design lover’s equipped with a café and gift shop. Station). 03 5223 8071. sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/ vote. Don’t forget your passport – à63-10 Oimatsucho, Nishi, Yokohama, Kanagawa (Hinodecho Edo-period riverside district Sawara english/index.html. See schedule on the website for you’ll need it for entry. Station). 045 231 1307. tinyurl.com/TOTnogeyama. NUVISAGE/DREAMSTIME tour dates. Morning tour 9am-11.15am, afternoon tour à1-7-1 Nagatacho, Chiyoda (Nagatacho Station). 9.30am-4.30pm (last entry 4pm), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols) 12.30pm-2.45pm. tinyurl.com/diettours. Mon 2pm, Tue-Fri 3pm, except in May & Oct. closed Sat, Sun, hols & during diet sessions. Suntory Musashino 19 brewery tour Known for its blue and gold cans of Premium Malt’s, Suntory Kirin Ichiban Fire Museum will take you on a tour of its 20 brewery tour FIRE MUSEUM brewery, walking you through the Sure, you’ll have your eyes on the various stages of beer-making, prize – the three thirst-quenching from nurturing the hops to the Ichiban Shibori beers poured just Fire Museum customary sampling of the wares. for you at the end of the tour – but Operated by the Tokyo Fire

KISA TOYOSHIMA 25 The 70-minute tour starts with an the journey through the brewery Department, this free museum is where you introductory video before diving is refreshing in its own way, with can learn about firefighting and disaster into the production process, many hands-on experiences. prevention through the centuries in Japan, and, somewhere along the line, You’ll of course go through the presented through a series of woodblock

you’ll get the chance to walk into entire process of beer-making, KEISUKE TANIGAWA prints, dioramas and historical documents. a beer vat. While you can’t wander with a focus on the brewery’s There’s also a collection of stunning vintage into the production line itself, internationally renowned fire trucks in the basement. But it’s not all explanatory footage with English flagship, the Kirin Ichiban Edogawa Shizen Zoo just show and tell. Kids can change into mini- subtitles give you the lowdown Shibori unfiltered first-press 24 This small zoo in Edogawa ward’s Gyosen Park may not have the big beasts but kids will sized firefighter uniforms on the third floor on what’s going on as you look on beer; you’ll feel and smell the love its variety of smaller animals such as rabbits, guinea pigs, sheep and goats, especially since and explore the inside of a fire truck equipped from the observation gallery. At hops, witness the fermentation they can interact with these friendly creatures at the petting area (sessions run 10am-11.45am, with working sirens. Don’t miss the huge the end, you’ll be treated to three process, taste the beer wort 1.15pm-3pm; summer 10am-11.45pm, 2.30pm-3.45pm). The zoo is also home to adorable helicopter on the fifth-floor outdoor terrace as draft beers – just what you need to and more. And at the end of the Humboldt penguins, Bennett’s wallabies and spider monkeys plus the two crowd-favourites, well – you can climb into the cockpit and get relax after watching other people 80-minute tour you’ll get to taste Kirin Ichiban brewery tour red pandas and giant anteaters. The zoo’s cosy atmosphere makes for a leisurely stroll, and a sense of the scale of the Fire Department’s hard at work. the finished product. Kanpai! there are seats scattered about for you to enjoy a lunchtime bento box. Don’t miss the adjacent operations. The tenth floor, meanwhile, offers à3-1 Yazakicho, Fuchu (take a shuttle from à1-17-1 Namamugi, Tsurumi, Yokohama traditional Japanese Heisei Garden, which offers calming scenery far removed from Tokyo’s a panoramic view of the Shinjuku skyline, Bubaigawara Station). 042 360 9591. suntory.jp/ (Namamugi Station). 045 503 8281. tinyurl.com/ hustle and bustle. Tokyo Skytree and Mt Fuji on a clear day. musashino-b. 10am-3.15pm (last tour), irregular TOTkirintour. Tours every hour 10am-4pm, closed à3-2-1 Kita-Kasai, Edogawa (Nishi-Kasai Station). 03 3680 0777. tinyurl.com/TOTshizen. 10am-4.30pm, Sat, Sun and hols from 9.30am; Nov- à3-10 Yotsuya, Shinjuku (Yotsuya-Sanchome Station). 03 3353 closing days. Mon (Tue if Mon is hols). Feb until 4pm; from Jul 21-Aug 31 9.30am-4.30pm; closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols). 9119. tinyurl.com/TOTfire. 9.30am-5pm, closed Mon & Dec 29-Jan 3.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 24 25 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Organ concert at 27 Suntory Hall OPEN TOKYO The imposing Austrian- made organ at the world- CONCERTS class concert venue Suntory Discounts, deals and exemptions Hall has been described as a ‘jewel box of sound’ by for students, older people and the Austrian conductor Herbert disabled. By Kaila Imada von Karajan. The acoustics are, of course, superb, and Pipe-organ concert at you can experience them 26 Tokyo Opera City for yourself at the free Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall Organ Promenade Concert is completely decked out in that’s been a fixture since European oak, which is well known 1991. Once a month, on a for its excellent acoustic qualities. Thursday lunchtime for Tokyo Come enjoy the majestic sounds half an hour, you can be of the 3,826-pipe organ during the immersed in the tones of one venue’s free lunchtime concert. of the world’s biggest organs, There’s no reservation necessary: which features a total of just drop in before the show starts, 5,898 pipes. Check the Tokyo may not be the cheapest grab a seat either on the ground or website for the programme. of cities, but not everyone has second floor and let your cares drift à1-13-1 Akasaka, Minato (Roppongi- to cough up top dollar. If you’re away with the music. Check the Itchome Station). 0570 55 0017. suntory.jp/

SUNTORY HALL SUNTORY a senior traveller (aged 65 and website for the programme. hall-e. One Thu a month 12.15pm-12.45pm, over), a student (up to tertiary à3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Hatsudai no reservation necessary. cares Station). operacity.jp/en/concert/calendar. Jan education) or a person living 16 11.45am, Mar 11 11.45am. Only admits school with disabilities, you can take ATTRACTIONS children and older. advantage of various offers and DOMESTIC discounts. Many of Tokyo’s major attractions, Pipe-organ concert at Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple FLIGHTS including museums, theme parks and 28 The distinctive Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple is well worth a visit for its unique stone It’s always worth asking about gardens, offer discounts or free entry for architecture alone, inspired by traditional Indian temple designs. The interior is just as senior and student pricing at various groups of visitors. Here are some stunning but features classic Shin Buddhist temple aesthetics instead, complete with popular attractions since many Travelling across Japan can take a toll standout deals. stained glass, chandeliers and beautiful furniture. The best way to experience the serene on your wallet, but if you’re 65+ both have discounts, while major atmosphere, though, is during the free monthly pipe-organ concert, which takes place on a ANA and JAL airlines offer discounts The Tokyo National Museum is free for OTHER Friday lunchtime and usually includes a mix of classical tunes and Buddhist hymns. museums in Tokyo offer free for standby domestic flights. To grab under 18s and people over 70 while the à3-15-1 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 0120 792 048. tsukijihongwanji.jp/enjoy/lunchtime-concert. Last Fri of the month entry to people with disabilities this deal, you’ll need to be an airline nearby National Museum of Western Art ATTRACTIONS 12.20pm-12.50pm, no reservation necessary. (relevant documents may be member; sign up via the respective is free for under 18s and those over 65. Both required). On top of that, a host airlines’ websites. Note that these venues are free for the disabled plus a carer of transport deals allow you to standby tickets can only be purchased or assistant. Traditional Japanese boat ride at Wasen Tomo no Kai travel on the cheap. Here’s how on the day of departure, pending 30 Throughout the Edo period (1603-1868), traditional Japanese to start saving. availability. Prices vary depending At Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, wooden boats known as wasen were used to transport goods and on date and destination, but one-way where the admission price depends on passengers along Tokyo’s many rivers and canals. In order to preserve travel starts from ¥8,150. the exhibition, discounts are available the wasen and its unique rowing techniques, members of the Wasen to high school (15+) and college students Tomo no Kai association provide free rides on these boats once or twice as well as people aged 65 or over. Under a week. No booking is required: just make your way to the Yokojukken- 15s can visit for free, as well as those with gawa Shinsui Park in Koto to enjoy a ride (roughly 20 minutes) on the disabilities (valid certificate required) and canal. If you’re lucky, the boat operator might even wear a shirushi- Buses are an affordable and reliable way to travel, too. one accompanying person. banten (traditional indigo-blue jacket) complete with a suge-gasa Willer Express, whose network spans the entire country, conical hat, perfect for your Instagram shot. The staff will also be offers early bird, senior and student discounts if you book in Animal lovers can save cash at Tokyo’s delighted to teach you how to use the ro, a wooden propulsion tool advance. zoos: the ever-popular Ueno Zoo offers more effective than the regular oar. discounts for visitors aged over 65 or à8-4 Umibe, Koto (Sumiyoshi Station). 03 3647 2538. wasen-tomo.com. 10am-2.15pm, May 1-Jul 20 & Enjoy savings of up to 20 percent on selected trips if you book between 13-15, while kids under 12 and the Sep-Nov Wed, 2nd & 4th Sun of the month; Jul 21-Aug 31, Dec-Feb, Sun only (subject to cancellation due to your tickets three months in advance. Students with valid ID disabled get in for free. Japan’s first theme wet weather). BUSES and the elderly can receive an additional ¥100 off tickets for park, Hanayashiki in Asakusa offers certain routes. children (7-12 years) and older people (65 HOTEL NEW OTANI TOKYO Hotel New Otani Landscape Garden and older) half price entry (¥500). 29 Yes, it’s attached to a hotel, but the Hotel New Otani Landscape Garden is open to The New National Theatre, Tokyo offers non-guests too. The spacious garden, dating On Children’s Day (May 5) and Respect for the Aged Day (the third Z-seat (restricted-view seats) tickets at a back around 400 years, has everything you’d Monday of September), Tokyo’s major attractions play their part lowly ¥1,650 on the day of the show. For expect from a classic Japanese landscape in the celebrations and open their doors for free to the young and other seat categories, there’s a five percent garden: a vermillion bridge crossing a large 5 old on the respective days. discount for those aged 65+ and students pond, a relaxing rock garden with stones from (valid ID required), as well as 20 percent off Sado Island, momiji maple leaves that burn Participating venues include Ueno, Tama and Inokashira Park for kids (under 15). bright red in autumn, and even a waterfall. zoos, plus Tokyo Sealife Park and the Miraikan (The National When wandering it’s easy to get lost amid the NATIONAL Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation). Additionally, on Three of Tokyo’s top parks are in on the scenery, but the fine details of the landscape HOLIDAYS Respect for the Aged Day, those of a certain age can enter the discount game too. At Shinjuku Gyoen, design and nature surrounding you make it Tokyo National Museum for nothing. seniors (65+) and students get in for half well worth the risk. To help you retrace your price (¥250) while over at Hamarikyu steps, the garden is illuminated after sunset and Rikugien gardens, entry for the same throughout the year. groups of visitors is just ¥150 instead of the à4-1 Kioicho, Chiyoda (Akasaka-Mitsuke Station). 03 3265 1111. Traditional Japanese ride boat Note: Prices and discounts are correct at the time of print and may change without prior regular ¥300.

newotani.co.jp/en/tokyo/garden. 6am-10pm daily. KISA TOYOSHIMA notice. Please check the venues’ respective websites for the latest updates.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 26 27 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo CHEAP EATS CHEAP EATS

FUKU SOBA This unassuming noodle shop is tucked away on a side street in Ningyocho THE PRICE and off ers a standing-only counter for hungry slurpers. Tickets for both soba and udon can be purchased at the vending machine, with options starting from a mere ¥310. But what makes Fuku Soba special is its tempura, deep-fried toppings in the form of crispy discs, featuring ingredients such as beni shoga (pickled ginger), small WantIS to feast in one ofRIGHT the world’s best food cities without breaking the sakura shrimp, burdock or a carrot-and-onion mix (also called kakiage). A tempura soba bank? Here are 30 Tokyo restaurants where you can get a great meal and will only set you back ¥440, with additional change from a �1�000* note. By the Time Out Tokyo team fritters priced at ¥130 a piece. GONBEI à 1-16-3 Nihonbashi Ningyocho, Chuo (Ningyocho Station). * Excluding �� percent tax 03 3662 1138. 6.15am-8pm, Sat & hols 6.15am-5pm, closed Sun. This small, warmly lit udon shop in the

KEISUKE TANIGAWA KEISUKE vicinity of Waseda University off ers top-notch noodles on a student-friendly budget. Udon sets start at ¥450 and NOODLES include free refi lls of takikomi gohan (rice seasoned with dashi broth and ORERYU SHIO RAMEN vegetables), while the menu also off ers Oreyu’s diverse ramen menu lists more than 30 options – so if you’re feeling several variations of dipping noodles such overwhelmed, just go with the classics. The Oreryu shio ramen (¥670) is a clean, as chilled sesame, as well as hot broths like light-tasting yet fl avourful bowl topped with a tender slice of pork, spring onions, the warming winter favourite of nikujaga EBISOBA ICHIGEN spinach and mushrooms. (meat and potato) udon. Get there before Originating from Sapporo, this cosy restaurant is justly famed for its The Oreryu juku shio ramen, noon or after 1pm to avoid the lunch rush. prawn-stock ramen, made by boiling down the heads of red shrimp to on the other hand, is more à 18 Babashitacho, Shinjuku (Waseda Station). 03 3202 3550. extract their briny, umami sweetness and then fi nished off with pork customisable as it off ers three 10.40am-9.30pm, closed Sun. back fat and shrimp oil. It’s a luscious soup that tastes of the ocean and broth options; our pick is you’ll want to clean out your bowl. the jukusei (rich salt), which For a bargain ¥830 you can choose either the aforementioned shrimp features a creamy pure chicken soup or one with the addition of pork, plus a seasoning: miso, salt or soy bone broth (no dairy added!). sauce. Plump for salt if you love the rich, unadulterated fl avour of shrimp. This comforting bowl is topped All noodles come with a slice of char siu and half a seasoned soft-boiled with two slices of charsiu pork, egg. Fork out another ¥380 for six pan-fried gyoza and you’ll have one of fried chicken karaage as well the most satisfying meals in Tokyo Station. as a soft-boiled egg. Feel free à Yaesu Shopping Mall South, 2-1 Yaesu, Chuo (Tokyo Station). 03 3548 8833. ebisoba.com. 11am-10pm daily. to spice up your meal with the condiments on the table, like yuzu kosho (yuzu chilli paste), garlic paste, umeboshi (pickled plum) paste and chilli oil.

à 1-28-11 Aobadai, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). KISA TOYOSHIMA NEIROYA 03 3760 5629. oreryushio.co.jp. 11am-6am daily. This homely Ogikubo restaurant off ers creative takes on ramen, cooling kakigori (shaved ice desserts) and aromatic curries. It’s best known, however, for its soupless lemon soba (¥950), thin noodles served dry or ‘maze’-style, mixed with toppings and sauce on a MENCHIRASHI plate rather than in a bowl. If you prefer something Tucked away in an alley off Cat Street, Menchirashi is a stylish space soupy, go for the shoyu-based (¥850) or chicken to savour house-made udon noodles amongst Harajuku’s fashionable and sardine-based ramen (¥950). crowd. But don’t let its American-diner-with-hip-Japanese-twist Neiroya also whips up an addictively moreish interior deter you: prices here are very reasonable, with most udon soup-like curry made with its signature ramen dishes priced below ¥1,000. dashi (Japanese-style stock); a ¥700 half-order Menchirashi is known for its fried-to-order tempura and onigiri is more than substantial enough for a decent rice balls, both of which make perfect accompaniments to a bowl of feed. Keep an eye on Neiroya’s Twitter for udon. If the menu triggers a bout of FOMO, opt for the kake udon (plain news on its seasonal kakigori; you’ll blow most noodles in broth) for ¥450, add on a tempura (from ¥150 a piece) and of your ¥1,000 budget on one of these artful fi nish off with an onigiri stuff ed with a variety of fi llings including tuna desserts – but it’s worth it. and takuan (daikon) pickles (from ¥200). That way you’ll try a bit of à 3-6-24 Amanuma, Suginami (Ogikubo Station). 03 6915 1314. everything. twitter.com/neiroya. 11.30am-8pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am-6pm. à 6-13-7 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku, Meiji-Jingumae stations). 03 6427 9898. menchirashi.com. KISA TOYOSHIMA NEIROYA: KISA TOYOSHIMA 11.30am-11pm (last orders 10.30pm), closed Tue.

29 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo CHEAP EATS CHEAP EATS SEAFOOD RICE MEALS SEE MORE

TIMEOUT.COM/ TAJIMA TOKYO Quality seafood at a reasonable price is hard to come by, making Tajima’s lunch off erings so hard to beat. Located just outside Nakano-Sakaue Station, this serene sushi restaurant off ers three seafood donburi rice bowls for ¥1,000 each: a kaisendon topped with fresh seafood, a zeitakudon topped with minced seafood mix (tuna, octopus, salmon roe, whitebait, etc), and a bakudandon with the aforementioned minced seafood, natto (fermented soybeans) and a raw egg. Prefer sushi? You can also get a seven-piece nigiri set with maki rolls and tamagoyaki (egg roll) for just ¥1,000. All the lunch dishes come with miso soup plus a side dish. à 102 Across City, 1-38-1 Chuo, Nakano (Nakano-Sakaue Station). 03 5330 5339. nakanosakaue-tajima.gorp.jp. 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm, closed Sun. KISA TOYOSHIMA

SUSHI DAIDOKOYA Founded in 1979, Shibuya’s fi rst DAYONE kaitenzushi (conveyor-belt sushi) Ochazuke is a comforting Japanese dish of rice topped with various off ers fresh seafood from Toyosu ingredients, with freshly brewed tea (ocha) or stock poured over it just Market, and with plates starting at before serving. At Dayone, where the ochazuke are made with fresh and ¥120, you can happily fi ll up for seasonal ingredients, you can expect a nourishing meal with staples like under ¥1,000. At lunch (until marinated tuna with yam, salmon with roe, and house-made charsiu 2.30pm), donburi rice bowls cost with pork bone broth, all for ¥980 each. Your rice meal also comes with ¥500-700 and include a bowl of miso NIHONBASHI- texture- and fl avour-enhancing condiments like spring onions, seaweed soup. Donburi toppings are seasonal, TENPURAMESHI and arare (small rice crackers), along with a small platter of pickles and a but you can expect combinations like pot of tea or broth that has been especially paired with your main dish. salmon, ikura (salmon roe) and uni KANEKO-HANNOSUKE à Shimizu Bldg 1F, 4-12-4 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi, Nogizaka stations). 03 5770 5563. tonton-inc. (sea urchin) in the Hokkaidodon, and It’s rare to fi nd a cheap and cheerful tempura com/business/restaurant/dayone. Sun-Thu 11.30am-12midnight; Fri, Sat & hols 11.30am-1am. lightly pickled fi sh in the zukedon. course in Tokyo, so forgive us for slightly Sushi Daidokoya is a brisk fi ve-minute stretching our budget to include this stroll from Shibuya Station. Nihonbashi fritter fi xer. The tempura here is à 2-15-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). exemplary. The batter is light and airy, a thin UNATOTO 03 3770 1147. shibuyadogenzaka.com/daidokoya. coat of addictive crispness. The ingredients,

Unagi (grilled freshwater 11am-5am, Fri & Sat 11am-6pm, Sun & hols 11am-11pm. KISA TOYOSHIMA meanwhile, are the star – perfectly cooked eel) is considered a delicacy, while still maintaining their natural juices but this low-key and and fl avours. It’s how good tempura should inviting eatery off ers this ECHIGOYA be: textural, fl avourful and easy on the luxurious dish as a quick and HACHIKICHI wallet. For just ¥1,080 (before tax), you’ll get aff ordable meal. An unadon, Specialising in himono fi sh nine feather-light items including shrimp, grilled eel glazed with a dishes for under ¥1,000 a whiting, squid and maitake mushroom plus sweet-savoury sauce over set, this favourite haunt of an oozy egg served straight from the fryer, white rice, costs as little as Ginza offi ce workers serves up along with rice and clam miso soup. ¥550. For ¥880, you can get authentic teishoku (set meal) at à 1-4-3 Nihonbashi-honcho, Chuo (Mitsukoshimae Station). hitsumabushi, a speciality lunch. The term ‘himono’ refers kaneko-hannosuke.com. 03 6262 3734. 11am-10pm (last orders from Aichi prefecture which to the process of partially drying 9.30pm), Sat, Sun & hols 10am-9pm (8.30pm). resembles the unaju (unagi fi sh so that the fl esh becomes served in a rectangular sweeter and more succulent, a lacquer box) and should be curing method that dates back enjoyed in two ways. First, to the Nara period (710-794) – NAKAYOSHI HANARE you eat the eel and rice with himono was once off ered to the At this unassuming Shibuya Stream restaurant, a branch of the a dash of wasabi. Then mix royal court as a gift. Most of the original in Ebisu founded 40 years ago, you can expect homely dishes things up by pouring dashi dishes here, such as mackerel at an aff ordable price. Classic Japanese fare such as salt-grilled broth into your rice and with crispy skin and salmon, are mackerel, pork and aubergine stir-fry, and deep-fried chicken karaage eat the unagi as you would grilled over charcoal. Sets come are served as set meals, accompanied by rice (cooked in a claypot, no ochazuke (a homely dish of with rice, grated daikon radish, less), miso soup, pickles and a side dish. Prices start from just ¥900 and broth and rice). miso soup and sesame spinach. very rarely exceed ¥1,000 – save for the seasonal specials, which are à 5-52-1 Nakano, Nakano (Nakano à 4-13-11 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 050 5304 always worth considering. Station). 03 5345 6969. unatoto.com. 5336. akr3790831455.owst.jp/en. 11am-12midnight, à Shibuya Stream 2F, 3-21-3 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6427 3513. shikinodaidokoro.co.jp. YUKI NAKAMURA 11am-11pm daily. Sat-Sun & hols 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm. TANIGAWA KEISUKE 11am-11pm daily (last orders 10.30pm).

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 30 31 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo CHEAP EATS MEAT ONIGIRI BONGO Onigiri is the perfect one-handed food – soft, steamy rice with a savoury fi lling wrapped in crisp nori seaweed. It’s cheap and quick, known more for its sustenance than fl avour, and easily found at many takeaway and convenience stores. But at Onigiri Bongo, the humble dish is elevated into a thoughtful, proper meal. Although the rice balls here are already on the larger side, there’s an option to supersize them or add extra toppings for ¥50. The menu features more than 50 fi llings, including classics like ume plum and salmon fl akes HANURI as well as unconventional combos like bacon and cheese, and curry and Visit Korean barbecue restaurant Hanuri for lunch KEISUKE TANIGAWA KEISUKE beef. The onigiri start at ¥260 while lunch sets go from ¥600 and come and you can experience a GIY (grill-it-yourself) beef with two rice balls of your choice plus unlimited tofu miso soup. meal for as little as ¥890. You’ll get 110g of beef – either BUTAGUMI SHOKUDO à Kaneda Bldg 1F, 2-26-3 Kita-Otsuka, Toshima (Otsuka Station). 03 3910 5617. tinyurl.com/TOTbongo. short ribs, skirt steak, shoulder or tongue – and if this At this convenient Roppongi eatery you’ll fi nd one of the best pork tonkatsu in 11.30am-12midnight, closed Sun. isn’t enough, ¥500 will get you an extra 60g. Included central Tokyo. The lunch deal, available daily until 4.30pm, is exceptional – you get in the price is an all-you-can-eat self-service salad a perfectly fried piece of pork loin, coated with crisp, golden panko, and served with bar, where you can stock up on the likes of pickled bottomless rice and shredded cabbage, plus miso soup and pickles, for just ¥1,000 TEMPURA ABE daikon, shaved cabbage, miso soup, steamed rice, tea (though it’s listed as ¥1,100 after tax). The shopping enclave of Ginza is the last and more. Hanuri has several locations in Tokyo but If you want to splurge, premium pork options costing close to ¥3,000 are place you’d expect to fi nd a Bib Gourmand we favour the Shinbashi one for its sweeping 8th-fl oor available. But the standard pork is no slouch: depending on the day, you could meal for just ¥1,000. But on weekday views. In the evenings, plates of meat start at around get an Okinawan meat raised on herbs or a breed from Chiba that feeds on sweet lunchtimes, this anomaly of a restaurant, ¥1,280 per person, and salads cost ¥690. potatoes. tucked away in a narrow basement in à 3-13-4 Shinbashi, Minato (Shinbashi Station). 03 5843 8188. hanuri.jp. à Roppongi Hills Metro Hat B2F, 6-4-1 Roppongi, Minato. butagumi.com/shokudo. 03 3408 6751. 11am-4pm (last orders a back alley, serves excellent tendon 11.30am-4am (last order 3am), Sun 11.30pm-11pm (10pm). 3.30pm), 5pm-11pm (10.30pm) daily. (tempura on rice) for just that. It’s a steal, TARE-KATSU considering dinner here will set you back On days when you’re craving something at least ¥3,500. substantial and a little greasy – don’t This place has serious pedigree: the worry, we’ve all had them – it’s hard to TORIKATSU CHICKEN proprietor Chef Abe had previously worked beat katsu over rice. Pork fi llet crumbed This hidden gem of a restaurant looks like it’s stuck in the ’70s, at Nadaman, one of the city’s top Japanese with panko and deep-fried, and then from its location in a forgotten back-alley building and old-school restaurants, for 30 years. Prawn tempura drizzled with a generous amount of interior to its surprisingly low prices. It specialises in cutlets – meat is a speciality: you’ll get two of these perfectly sweet, mildly tangy katsu sauce, is and vegetables breaded with panko and deep-fried. executed fritters plus three kinds of seasonal irresistibly moreish. While most katsu The popular set meal, which comes with a chicken cutlet, ham vegetables with the Oebi tendon lunch, or a large shrimp-and- joints off er pork and not much else, cutlet and croquette plus rice, miso soup and shredded cabbage, vegetable fritter plus a tempura egg with the kakiagedon. Whichever here you can pick your own katsudon is only ¥700 – it’s arguably the best-value meal in central Shibuya. you choose, you can count on fresh ingredients and non-greasy batter, toppings from classic pork katsu to Otherwise, you can pick and mix from 11 deep-fried options and a fi lling ¥1,000 meal that includes miso soup and pickles. shrimp and even assorted vegetables including chicken, pork, squid, horse mackerel and aubergine. à Subaru Bldg B1F, 4-3-7 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). tempura-abe-ginza.gorp.jp. 03 6228 6077. like aubergine, shiitake mushroom and A set meal of two cutlets is ¥700, three is ¥850 and four is ¥1,050. 11.30am-2pm, 5pm-9pm, Sat, Sun & hols 11.30am-3pm, 5pm-9pm. pumpkin. A four-piece pork katsudon It’s good honest food at feel-good prices – you just have to look hard or a two-piece katsudon with breaded for it (tip: enter the narrow alley next to Shot coff ee bar). veggies are ¥880 each. à 2-16-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3461 0298. 11am-3pm, 5pm-9pm, Sat & hols OMUSUBI STAND à Multiple locations including Shibuya, Kichijoji, Nakano, KISA TOYOSHIMA 11am-8pm, closed Sun. YAKINIKU LIKE Jinbocho and Hibiya. tarekatsu.jp. While yakiniku (grilled meat) ANDON restaurants mostly cater to Visit this charming multi-purpose group dining, the multi-branch space at weekends for the bargain Yakiniku Like chain off ers solo- lunch set, where two onigiri, a hearty GINZA SHABUTSU diner grills – with great success. soup and pickles is just ¥650. Omusubi For more than 20 years, Ginza Shabutsu has Today, it has restaurants across Stand Andon comprises four fl oors: been a local favourite for shabu-shabu (Japanese Tokyo, including Shinbashi, the fi rst houses the onigiri stand, hotpot), thanks to its fresh ingredients and Shibuya, Shinjuku, Akihabara while the second off ers a library and excellent value for money. At lunch, ¥880 will get and Ueno; most outlets also off er a eat-in space. you a plate of fi nely sliced pork, beef, duck or beef few tables for two. Andon uses premium rice from tongue; a combination of two is ¥930. The staff The menu is highly Akita prefecture while the fi llings will fi re up your pot of light chicken broth, then customisable: choose your come in tried-and-tested fl avours bring you your banquet: a plate piled high with cut of beef (or that one pork such as ume plum, salmon, minced tofu, cabbage, carrots and bean noodles; an array option) and the quantity, with meat in miso, chirimen sansho (dried of condiments like ponzu (citrus and soy dipping prices starting from just ¥220 whitebait mixed with sansho pepper) sauce) and the signature sesame sauce made per 50g. Add another ¥200 for a and iburigakko cheese (smoked from no fewer than 20 ingredients; your selected bowl of rice (refi llable between takuan pickles with cream cheese), to meat; and a bowl of steamed rice. To eat, swish 11am to 5pm), soup and kimchi. name just a few. You can also get the the ingredients through the boiling stock until The set meals are even more onigiri at ¥250 a piece and two will they’re cooked. aff ordable; the cheapest of make a fi lling meal. Lunch sets are also At dinner, courses start from ¥3,100. which is only ¥530 for 100g of available for takeaway. à Torishige Bldg B1F, 6-9-15 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). meat plus the aforementioned à 3-11-10 Nihonbashi-honcho, Chuo (Kodenmacho 03 3573 1657. gurunavi.com/en/g001108/rst. 11.30am-3pm accompaniments. Station). 03 3527 2498. andon.shop. 5pm-11pm (last orders (last orders 2.30pm), 5.30pm-11pm (10.30pm). à Various locations around Tokyo, including Shibuya,

10pm), Sat 11am-10pm (9pm), Sun 11am-9pm (8pm). ONIGIRI BONGO: KISA TOYOSHIMA; TEMPURA ABE: KEISUKE TANIGAWA Meguro and Ueno. yakiniku-like.com.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 32 33 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo CHEAP EATS CHEAP EATS MISC KISA TOYOSHIMA FUKUHO GYOZA Cheap and cheerful, Fukuho Gyoza off ers plates of six dumplings for just ¥290. While the gyoza are nothing fancy, they KUSHIKATSU TANAKA are substantial and fi lling, available with Kushikatsu – ingredients dipped in breadcrumbs and deep-fried or without garlic, boiled or fried. To spruce until crisp and golden – were invented in the early 1900s and up your meal, the ¥250 sides include grew in popularity during the wartime era when workers sought pickled cabbage, miso cucumber, fried fast and aff ordable meals. Kushikatsu Tanaka in Daikanyama burdock and dandan tofu. Complete your EBISU BANH is a great place to sample this cheap and cheerful dish, with meal with rice (either served straight or MI BAKERY plenty to satisfy vegetarians, seafood- and meat-lovers alike. The topped with minced meat) and you’ll Flavoursome Vietnamese crisp lotus root is a perennial favourite, as are the juicy shiitake be satisfactorily sated, with your wallet fast food is the name of mushrooms and tender prawns, all for just ¥100-200 a stick – or barely dented. Here with friends (or just the game at this low-key go straight for the ¥500 deal, which off ers fi ve selected sticks. very hungry)? An order of 18 gyoza comes Ebisu sandwich joint. Keep an eye out for seasonal off erings; we love the yellowtail in at only ¥790. The excellent baguettes, and apple in the past winter. On each table you’ll fi nd Tanaka’s à KDX Shinjuku 286 Bldg, 2-8-6 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku- made in-house, are stuff ed signature barbecue sauce – but remember to follow the golden sanchome, Shinjuku-gyoenmae stations). 03 5367 1582. with mouthwatering rule: no double-dipping. fukuho.net. 11.30am-3.30pm (last orders 3pm), 5pm-4.30am CITRON ingredients: we love the à 19-1 Daikanyama, Shibuya (Daikanyama Station). 03 6809 0805. kushi-tanaka.com. (3.30am), Sat 11.30am-4.30am (3.30am), Sun 11.30am-11pm French café Citron has an appropriately stylish interior roast pork and pâté option, 4pm-12midnight, Sat, Sun & hols 11am-12midnight. (10.15pm). for its trendy Gaienmae location, with polished concrete as well as the grilled walls, low-set timber tables and windowsills lined chicken satay with green with fl owers. And the food fi ts the bill – think healthy, onions. There are nine colourful vegetarian fare like quiche, vegetable gratin, sandwich choices (small KEISUKE TANIGAWA KEISUKE sandwiches and salads. There are always vegan options from ¥400; large from GARAGE 50 for soups, desserts and sandwiches. ¥580) while a banh mi set For a unique eating-out experience, bypass the generic For ¥960, you can enjoy the daily quiche or gratin – with a drink, soup or salad Italian restaurants and head straight for Garage 50 in such as the red onion, mozzarella and rosemary quiche, is an extra ¥150-200. With Kichijoji, where the pizzas are cooked in a retrofi tted VW van. or the celery, potato, parmesan and mustard gratin – prices this low, you won’t It’s hipster, sure, and you’ll be eating off paper plates while both of which come with a small salad. For ¥590, there’s mind that there are just a sitting on a stool in a garage, but the pizza is of exceptional a selection of baguettes with fi llings like gruyère, rocket, scattering of stools should value at ¥600. The inside of the vehicle has been refurbished tomato and pesto, or grilled courgette, aubergine and you decide to eat in. to fi t a pizza oven and the owner makes each pie fresh upon tapenade. At lunch, you can get a sandwich with salad à 1-8-14 Ebisu, Shibuya (Ebisu order. You can’t go wrong with the prosciutto topped with a and soup for just ¥960. Station). 03 6319 5390. tinyurl.com/ soft egg, or the basil mascarpone. à Seirin Bldg 1F/2F, 2-27-21 Minami-Aoyama, Minato (Gaienmae Station). TOTebisubm. 11am-8pm daily. KEISUKE TANIGAWA KEISUKE à 1-23-5 Kichijoji, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 11.30am-9pm, Sat 11.30am-5pm, Sun 03 6447 2556. citron.co.jp. 8am-9pm (last orders 8.30pm), Sat 9am-9pm (8.30pm), 11.30am-6pm, closed Tue. Sun 9am-7pm (6.30pm). PONIPIRICA KURA HAYASHIYA Hailing from Hokkaido, soup curry is A tidy, functional Italian restaurant, Kura has Within the fl ashing neon lights and clutter of Shinjuku, you characterised by a fl avourful broth infused a good line in fresh pasta, of which the options can take refuge in the calm, old-worldly charm of Hayashiya, with a bounty of spices, tender chicken are extensive, separated into broad categories tucked into the 5th fl oor of a high-rise building. It serves cooked on the bone, and ladened with a including soy-sauce pasta, curry pasta, salt- yoshoku – Japanese-style Western food – and the menu has rainbow assortment of fresh vegetables like based pasta, creamy pasta and tomato pasta. barely changed since it opened in 1949. Signature dishes include baby corn, lotus root, pumpkin, turnip, sweet There’s even a small selection of Japanese- the omurice (¥720), a paper-thin omelette cocooned around potato and aubergine. style pastas featuring natto (fermented bean) chicken fried rice and Hip Shimokitazawa is Tokyo’s soup curry and cod roe. drizzled with ketchup, hot spot, and with its relaxed vibe and eclectic Lunch off ers the best deal, with prices and the cheese hamburg interior Ponipirica is particularly popular. ranging from ¥650 for the peperoncino (hamburger patty; ¥880). The ¥1,000 lunch (11.30am-3.30pm) includes pasta to ¥1,100 for the domestic beef and An extensive drinks list the day’s soup curry plus rice, salad and mushroom option (dinner prices hike up to features wine from all a drink. At dinner, curry prices start from ¥900-1,200). If you’re hungry you can upsize over the world as well as ¥1,000; choose from fi sh, vegetables-only, to a medium portion for free (or ¥100 for large) Japanese craft sake. chicken or pork-shabu curry. or make it a set meal complete with bread, à Sun Park Bldg 5F, 3-22-12 Shinjuku, à 2-8-8 Kitazawa, Setagaya (Shimokitazawa Station). 03 salad and a drink for an additional ¥400 (or Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3352 6804 8802. ponipirica.in. 11.30am-4pm (last order 3.30pm), ¥150 for just a glass of wine). 5519. 10.30am-11pm daily (last 5pm-10.30pm (9.45pm); Sat 11.30am-10.30pm (9.45pm); Sun à Multiple locations including Shibuya, Nakameguro, Gotanda, KISA TOYOSHIMA orders 10.15pm). TANIGAWA KEISUKE 11.30am-10pm (9.15pm). Yutenji and Togo. kura-jp.com.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 34 35 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Advertisement feature Advertisement feature The evolution of Shibuya Discover how the city is transforming into a futuristic hub for work and play come 2027 SHIBUYA TODAY famous shopping and entertainment hub in central A Tokyo, Shibuya is undergoing Shibuya Scramble a monumental redevelopment Square (2019) project that will last until 2027. 1Opened in November 2019, Tokyu Group, best known for its Shibuya Scramble Square is the private railways, is one of the main tallest building in the area, towering project partners and is driven over the city at about 230 metres. by a vision to transform Shibuya The 47-storey landmark is home into an entertainment city by to 213 shops, covering all your cultivating world-leading business lifestyle, fashion, beauty and luxury opportunities and a new urban needs, as well as two restaurant open to the public. The mall has a connection point has changed that, the bordering Aoyama district. The Tip culture celebrating diversity. floors offering everything from total of 69 stores catering to trendy creating a convenient, comfortable SHIBUYA first four floors will be set aside While the current labyrinthine Japanese and Chinese to Western youths and those who are still young and safer way to navigate the busy for commercial use and will also Don’t miss Tokyu Hands for layout of Shibuya Station makes and International cuisines. The at heart. The interior design may transport hub that is Shibuya Station. include a large plaza planted with more shopping and Magnet it confusing and difficult to move crown on this massive skyscraper is be different on each floor of Tokyu On the first basement floor you’ll TOMORROW lush greenery, which will serve by Shibuya 109 for a closer around, new upper-level pedestrian the rooftop observation deck, Shibuya Plaza but they all feature timeless find a Toei Bus information centre as as a space for cultural exchange view of the iconic scramble passageways will soon connect Sky, which offers breathtaking aesthetics using natural elements well as a fancy powder room. Make between locals and international crossing. the station with the surrounding 360-degree views of Tokyo (more such as stone, paper and wood. The sure to also check out the Uplight Cafe Area surrounding Shibuya visitors. cutting-edge high-rises, resulting about that on the next spread). second floor, for example, is decked on the second basement floor, where Station’s Sakuragaoka in a smoother flow of foot traffic. 2-24-12 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya out in the flagstones that once graced you can also pick up free Time Out 5Exit (2023) Shibuya Scramble Here is an overview of the latest Station). shibuya-scramble-square. the façade of the former Tokyu Plaza Tokyo guide maps and magazines. The 2.6-hectare area southwest Square (Central & West and upcoming buildings that are set com. Shops 10am-9pm, 12F restaurants Shibuya building which closed in 2015. of Shibuya Station will turn into 7Wing; 2027) to change the way you experience 11am-11pm, 13F restaurants 11am-12  1-2-3 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Shibuya Hikarie (2012) a pedestrian-friendly, futuristic- The remaining two buildings of the Shibuya. midnight. Shibuya Sky 9am-11pm (last Station). shibuya.tokyu-plaza.com. Shops The massive transformation looking neighbourhood by 2023. massive Shibuya Scramble Square, entry 10pm). Shop hours may vary. 10am-9pm, restaurants 11am-11pm, 4around Shibuya Station The high-rise buildings here are set the central wing and west wing, are rooftop terrace (17F) 11am-11pm (last entry started with Shibuya Hikarie, which to feature international medical scheduled to open in 2027. The west Shibuya Fukuras 10.30pm). Shop hours may vary. opened to much fanfare back in facilities, offices, shops and wing will take over the site of the (2019) 2012. This 34-storey structure serviced apartments, catering now-closed Tokyu Department Store 2Shibuya Station’s west Underground area of houses a myriad of shops and to multinational companies and while the central wing will be built exit is now home to a new multi- Shibuya Station’s east restaurants plus an arts complex. international businesspeople. on top of JR Shibuya Station. Upon purpose 18-storey building, which 3exit (2019) At its main entrance you can find the completion, the Shibuya Scramble has offices, co-working spaces This new underground space at popular discount ticket booth TKTS, Shibuya 2-17 District Square Complex will be the beaming and shopping facilities. The first Shibuya Station’s east exit connects where you can purchase tickets to (2024) icon of the new Shibuya. floor of Shibuya Fukuras houses a the higher-level train platforms selected events and shows for that 6Another addition to Shibuya bus terminal plus shibuya-san, a of the JR and Ginza lines with day or the following day. Station’s east exit will be a tourist information and art centre those in the basement, where the  2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya 23-storey office complex on co-produced by Time Out Tokyo. Toyoko, Fukutoshin, Denentoshi and Station). 03 5468 5892. hikarie.jp. Shops Aoyama-dori street, adjacent to The popular shopping mall Tokyu Hanzomon lines operate. Transferring 10am-9pm, 6F restaurants 11am-11pm, 7F Shibuya Hikarie. This new tower, Plaza occupies half of Shibuya Fukuras, between those two zones was a restaurants 11am-11.30pm, on Sun until which hosts high-grade offices, is with a breezy rooftop garden that’s hassle in the past but this new 11pm. TKTS (Shibuya flagship) 2pm-7pm. designed to connect Shibuya with Advertisement feature Advertisement feature

The view is unparalleled 2The open-air rooftop viewing space is called the Sky Stage and it’s high enough to see Mt Fuji on a clear day. It undoubtedly tops any existing vantage points in the area with its panoramic views and prime location to experience the dynamic energy of Shibuya. Come hang out at the highest point in 3Shibuya On top of its awe-inspiring sights, the Sky Stage also features hammocks and lounge sofas, so you can leisurely enjoy the views from Shibuya’s highest point. At night, you’ll be able to see a light show called ‘Crossing Light’, which features 18 searchlights.

‘The Shibuya Scramble Square is now the tallest building in the area’

5 things you Book your tickets children aged 3 to 5 is ¥600. You online for cheaper can get up to ¥200 discount if you and stepped into an extraordinary 4rates book your tickets in advance. Do new one. The gallery’s ‘Time River’ is Tickets can be purchased on the note that tickets purchased are a 70-inch 4K screen that depicts the day or ahead of time online. General designated to a specific time slot should know about passing of time and relationships admission for adults 18 years on a specific date. Individuals between people whereas ‘Parallel and older is ¥2,000 at the door, with disabilities will be granted Windows’ further down the corridor junior high school and high school admission at half the price. integrates the themes of time, place students is ¥1,600, elementary and self to give you a greater sense school students is ¥1,000 and There’s shopping, of perspective as you gaze at the too Shibuya Sky cityscape. ‘“Time River” is a 70-inch 5At Shibuya Sky’s souvenir shop on the 45th and 46th floors, 4K screen that depicts you’ll be able to find a myriad of cute keepsakes and thoughtful presents he most dynamic part of Shibuya Sky is the passing of time and that are themed around all things the city is going through a more than just an Shibuya. Popular items include T monumental transformation, 1observation deck relationships between Shibuya Snow Domes or Japanese and one of the new developments Shibuya Sky is divided into three tea bags inspired by Shibuya’s to be unveiled in this grand-scale sections, which include the lift or people’ beloved mascot, Hachiko. You can endeavor is the long-awaited ‘transitional pod’ that transports also take home more personalised Shibuya Scramble Square. This you from the 14th floor to the 45th memorabilia in the form of playful landmark tower is envisioned to floor of the building. Named the snapshots at the photo corner be a leading hub for business Sky Gate, the lift creates a sense of right next to the souvenir shop on and commerce, complete with an anticipation as you make your way the 46th floor, which features a observation facility. to the top. The moment the door backdrop of the Shibuya crossing The building is a grand 230m closes, the light dims and the ceiling that makes it look as though you are complex of shops, restaurants, above you bursts into life, with a floating over the city. offices, event spaces and perhaps spectacle designed by the digital art most impressive of all, a rooftop specialists at Rhizomatiks Design observation facility with a 360° view to captivate you as you are whisked of the city, known simply as Shibuya to the 45th floor. Sky. The Shibuya Scramble Square Rhizomatiks Design’s installations is now the tallest building in the can also be experienced in the district of Shibuya, and that makes Sky Gallery, an indoor observation 2-24-12 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo (Shibuya Station). Floors: 14, 45, 46 and rooftop. its Shibuya Sky the highest vantage corridor designed to make you feel as shibuya-scramble-square.com. 9am-11pm daily (last entry 10pm). point in the area. though you’ve left the ordinary world SHINJUKU UP ALL NIGHT Shinjuku Kotegaeshi Cook your own late-night snack on the hot Toho Cinemas plates of Kotegaeshi, where you can grill The best thing about catching different variations of okonomiyaki at your a newly released blockbuster table. These savoury pancakes originate movie past midnight is not from Osaka and consist of batter mixed having to fight for the last with the fillings of your choice, to be topped remaining tickets and settling with katsuo fish flakes and sauce after into a seat that’s too close to turning golden brown. Available fillings the screen. This seven-storey include pork, soft-boiled egg, kimchi, cinema, under the iconic cheese and noodles. You’re given an Shinjuku Godzilla, features hourglass to indicate when you should flip 12 theatres, with screenings your pancake, but if you’re not confident in starting as late as 4am. Toho your cooking skills, staff will be standing by Cinemas also boasts the ready to take over the grill for you. latest theatrical technology à Shinjuku Ducky Plaza Bldg 3F, 3-21-9 Shinjuku, Shinjuku including Imax screens and Thermae-Yu (Shinjuku Station). 03 3356 2510. towafood-net.co.jp/ Up MX4D theatres with seats that In hectic, and at times grubby, pasutakan/tabid/82/Default.aspx. Mon-Thu & Sun 11am-11pm, can recline, move and even Shinjuku, urban spa Thermae- Fri, Sat & hols 11am-3am. spray water at you for added Yu is an oasis of calm and special effects. cleanliness featuring eateries, à Shinjuku Toho Bldg 3F, 1-19-1 Kabukicho, lounge chairs and several hot Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 050 6868 5063. spring baths. Spend a night tinyurl.com/TOTshinjukutoho. soaking your worries away in a hot bath and consider getting a massage to help you snooze as you await your first train. There are both indoor and Shinjuku Copabowl open-air baths with different With its newly renovated lanes on the minerals, all at varying fourth floor and blacklit ones on the temperatures. Thermae-Yu has third, Copabowl is an especially funky water delivered daily from Izu, bowling alley – plus it gives you the an area famous for its natural all option of adding a few stakes to your volcanic springs, to fill the game to liven things up a bit. Its ‘batsu rotenburo (open-air baths). If game’ offers a series of punishments you don’t fancy getting your hair that the player with the lowest score wet, try a unique Japanese sauna will have to face upon losing the game. experience in one of the stone For ¥500, you can pick a formidable rooms. The ganbanyoku stone punishment from hard-to-swallow saunas are set between 40°C and Jiromaru concoctions to edible locusts. 50°C. Depending on what type Tachigui, or tachinomi, refers to Sentence your opponent to an even of stone you’re lying on, benefits Japan’s age-old tradition of eating Missing the last train can more gruesome challenge for ¥2,500, are said to range from improved while standing up. This custom be a blessing in disguise which will expand your choices of metabolism to better blood dates back to the Edo period (1603- edible insects, including scorpions. circulation. It’s hard to vouch 1868), when hungry merchants if you know about these à Humax Pavilion Shinjuku 3F-4F, 1-20-1 Kabukicho, how effective one session will be would stand around sushi or soba great venues that stay Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3200 6947. tinyurl.com/ at improving your overall well- stalls on the streets, having little TOTcopabowl. 11am-6.30am, Fri-Sat 11am-8am, being, but at the very least your time to sit down for a proper meal open until dawn. Sun 10am-7am. muscles will become less tense between trades. Nowadays, you’ll be night By Emma Steen from the heating effects of the able to find ‘standing restaurants’ stones beneath you. serving all kinds of fare from à 1-1-2 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). ramen to French food, but there’s You’re out with your friends. You know 03 5285 1726. tinyurl.com/TOTthermaeyu. 24hrs, something irresistible about the you ought to leave them in time for the irregular hols. smell of yakiniku that wafts out last train and you announce this to your from Jiromaru onto the streets of group, swearing that the drink in your Kabukicho. hand will be your last. Alas, time slips by The meat here is displayed in glass and before you know it, you’ve missed cases, similiar to a sushi restaurant, the last train home. You’re now faced with the grades and cuts of wagyu with three options: a pricey taxi ride, an listed on wooden planks behind even more costly hotel room or staying the counter. Meat can be ordered in out until the trains start running again single slices (prices generally range the next morning. Thankfully for those between ¥80 and ¥300), which opting for the third way, there are plenty you cook on your own barbecue, so of exciting venues in Tokyo to provide you’ll be able to sample a full array of you with all kinds of enjoyment until flavours from different types of beef. the dawn trains depart. Here are our à 1-26-3 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). favourites. 03 6380 3292. tinyurl.com/TOTjiromaru. 11am-5am daily (last orders 4.20am). NUTHAWUT SOMSUK/DREAMSTIMENUTHAWUT KISA TOYOSHIMA

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 40 41 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo SHIBUYA ROPPONGI UP ALL NIGHT

Tusk Plenty of shot bars in Roppongi will serve cheap tequila until the sun rises, but it’s hard to find a decent cocktail bar that is open past midnight. Tucked away in a corner of Roppongi Hills is Tusk, a relaxed bar reminiscent of the classic watering holes of New York. The spacious venue, complete with a DJ booth and VIP section, is accented by two vibrant artworks by Masashi Udagawa Café Ozawa. Alongside classic cocktails, Late-night cafés are a trademark of Shibuya, wine and spirits, the menu also and while Udagawa Café’s first appearance includes a selection of bar snacks on the scene in 2001 was a quiet one, it’s now such as rusks with a mascarpone a popular haunt for the city’s night owls. dip and a charcuterie board. Olive Spa The café has a retro art-deco look and serves à Roppongi Hills West Walk 1F, 6-10-1 Roppongi, If you’re in dire need of some rest up classic dishes including ginger pork and Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 3478 9991. tinyurl. and relaxation, recuperate with Womb a series of old-school parfaits reminiscent com/TOTtusk. 11.30am-5am, Sun & hols until a massage and sauna session Some clubs will only open their of Japanese kissaten (traditional coffee 12midnight overnight at Olive Spa. Facilities doors during the weekends – shops). The drinks menu is satisfyingly at the Bali resort-inspired spa Womb isn’t one of them. Every extensive, including flavoured lattes, include a Mt Fuji lava stone night is a party at Womb, with EST decaffeinated coffee and a special Udagawa sauna, where you can catch a music ranging from electric A saving grace for fans of indoor house blend, on top of a long selection of break from the unrelenting cold house to hip hop blasting recreation, EST Shibuya is a beer, wine, liquor and cocktails. of winter. Sixty minutes of aroma through the speakers across its playground of ping pong tables, à LD&K Bldg 1F-2F, 18-4 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). Yelo oil treatments, stretch massage three-storey venue. Each night of billiards and bowling alleys. 03 6416 9087. tinyurl.com/TOTudagawacafe. 11am-5am daily Late-night dessert bars are hard to come by in a and dry muscle massage are the week has a different theme; There are four floors reserved (last orders 4am). city that tends to prefer hot bowls of ramen for all ¥13,200 past 8.30pm, and certain nights are reserved for bowling alleys alone, where after-dark munchies, but Yelo is a gem for those ¥12,000 during daytime. for bass music with some trap if you’re hungry you can order looking to satisfy their sweet tooth after a late à Art Shell Bldg 2F, 7-4-4 Roppongi, Minato and hip hop while others are a snack from the touch panels dinner. Tiramisu, matcha and mango milk are (Roppongi Station). olivespa.co.jp/roppongi/ soundtracked by a mix of electro available at every lane. Games only a few of the basic flavours on the kakigori index.php. 03 3478 5533. 12.30pm-5.30am daily. house. On Wednesday, women cost ¥600 (5pm to closing) plus menu, along with more unusual combinations and international visitors are ¥350 for shoe rental. like avocado mascarpone and hojicha kinako granted free entry. Fees on other If knocking down pins isn’t (roasted green tea with soybean powder). nights vary, but prices start from your thing, you can test your At first, the enormous mountain of fluffy ¥1,000 and you can often get hand-eye coordination at the shaved ice might look big enough for two or a discount if you pull out the arcade on the first floor where three people to finish, but it’s so exquisite event’s digital flyer (available on there are a number of claw you’ll find yourself easily demolishing the the club’s social media channels) machines and photo booths whole thing. Customise your snowy mound at the door. that give you the chance to take with toppings such as oreo, shiratama (mochi Karaoke a-okay à 2-16 Maruyamacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). home some memorabilia from dumplings) and extra milk sauce if you’re 03 5459 0039. tinyurl.com/TOTwomb. Opening your spontaneous all-nighter. feeling extravagant. There are also boozy When in doubt, you time varies, closes at 4.30am daily. à 1-14-14 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). kakigori options, like the mint-chocolate- can always aim to 03 3409 4721. tinyurl.com/TOTestbowling. flavoured Grasshopper which comes served in Tsurutontan sing your heart out 10.30am-5.30am daily. Sega arcade closes a martini glass. This branch of hip noodle chain at any of the city’s 12midnight. à Patio Roppongi 1F, 5-2-11 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). Tsurutontan is busiest at lunch, dinner karaoke joints, 03 3423 2121. tinyurl.com/TOTyelo. 12noon-3am, Sun & hols until and 5am, when club-goers sit down for a which are almost 12midnight. wholesome meal to close the night before always open until straggling home, and no wonder. The at least 4am. Don’t chain offers an extensive variety of dishes feel self-conscious perfect for post-dancing calories. Menu about getting a room Flamingo items range from the simple kitsune for yourself – it’s not With an entrance that dazzles passers-by with bright red lights, café and bar Flamingo’s (fried tofu) udon and classic curry udon unusual to see solo exterior is somewhat reminiscent of Paris’s Moulin Rouge, but step inside and you’ll be with slices of beef to carbonara udon crooners getting one met with a funkier ambience of silver disco balls and red lips painted on the wall. There that might just pass for breakfast with just to practice their are flamingos too, of course, in the form of reading lights that nod at you from the bar its toppings of egg and bacon. You can vocals without any counter as you spin on the matching red bar stools and sip on nostalgic diner classics decide on the amount of noodles you onlookers to witness like cream soda. want: choose one bundle for the standard you murdering your The menu after 11pm is less extensive than what’s available during the day but is serving or up to double the noodles for no chosen song. eclectic nonetheless. Keema curry and Thai gapao rice is on offer for those craving extra charge. Eastern flavours, and margherita pizza for cheese lovers. There are desserts as well, à 3-14-12 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 5786 including crème brûlée and banana caramel cake, and the blue milk tea, which really 2626. tinyurl.com/TOTtsurutontan. 11am-8am daily (last does come in a curious shade of pastel blue. orders 7.30am). à 10-2 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6416 5513. tinyurl.com/TOTcafeflamingo. Sun-Thu 11.30am-2am, Fri-Sat 11.30am-5am.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 42 43 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo NEW YEAR SHRINES Nezu Shrine Built in 1706, Nezu Shrine is an excellent example of Edo-period Imado Shrine shrine architecture. Its majestic This house of worship, where the male and female red and gold lacquered buildings deities Izanagi-no-mikoto and Izanami-no-mikoto miraculously escaped destruction are enshrined, is known for its connection to marriage. by the earthquakes, wars and Imado is also believed to be the birthplace of maneki- fires that ravaged Tokyo in the neko, the cat that beckons good fortune. A pair of male 20th century, leading locals to and female maneki-neko figurines are said to bring good believe the place is blessed with luck in a relationship as well as success in business. divine protection. Although Nezu As such, Imado Shrine is home to a variety of maneki- Shrine is famous for the spring neko, and there are cute lucky cat charms for sale as well. blossoming of its 3,000 azaleas, At the shrine you can meet the wife of its head priest, the serene grounds filled with Mrs Keiko Ichino, who is revered as a ‘human power mature, shady trees make it a spot’. You’ll find her sharing her happiness and good pleasant spot to visit any time of energy with visitors by handing out four-leaf clovers and the year. cherries from the shrine grounds. à1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyo (Nezu Station). à1-5-11 Imado, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3872 2703. 03 3822 0753. nedujinja.or.jp. imadojinja1063.crayonsite.net.

Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shinagawa Shrine Near Shinagawa Station, this shrine is popular with devotees Shrine seeking to improve their financial fortunes. Locals believe This is one of Japan’s three major Hachiman the shrine was established in 1187 by Minamoto no Yoritomo, shrines, dedicated to the guardian deity of the the first shogun and founder of the Kamakura shogunate, to Genji clan and the Kamakura warriors. It was honour a deity who protects seafarers and ensures that prayers established as a branch of Kyoto’s Iwashimizu are answered. Today the shrine is closely associated with Hachimangu, where samurai Minamoto no Daikokuten, the god of wealth and one of the ‘Seven Deities of Yoriyoshi prayed in 1603 when he won the the Tokai Region’ and, as such, Shinagawa Shrine is revered as battle of Oshu, before returning to Kamakura one of the ‘Ten Tokyo Shrines’. and established himself as the deity of the The shrine grounds are home to Fuji-zuka, a 15-metre man- Genji clan. The shrine is associated with a made hill created in 1869 by a group of Mt Fuji worshippers wide variety of blessings including romantic known as Fuji-ko, to symbolise the act of scaling the sacred success, household safety, health and mountain itself. The spring equinox sees a ritual known as the longevity, academic success and traffic safety. GET LUCKY ‘Pilgrimage of the Seven Torii Gates’, at which participants walk Some 2.5 million people visit the shrine each Start the new year with a quintessential Japanese tradition through the seven torii gates on the shrine grounds to pray for New Year. and go visit a shrine to pray for good fortune. By Shock Eye health and a long life. The Hata-age Benzaitensha in Tsurugaoka

SOMCHAI SINTHOP/DREAMSTIME à3-7-15 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa (Kitashinagawa Station). 03 3474 5575. shinagawajinja.tokyo. Hachimangu is home to the Masako Stone, which was placed in memory of Hojo Masako (wife of Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of the Kamakura shogunate and Shinagawa Shrine; see left), who prayed at the shrine for NEW YEAR is the most auspicious the safe delivery of her baby. holiday in Japan, and custom à2-1-31 Yukinoshita, Kamakura (Kamakura Station). 0467 22 0315. dictates that one should visit a hachimangu.or.jp. temple or shrine to ask for good luck for the coming year. This practice, known as hatsumode, is usually performed on New Year’s Eve and the first three days of January, when many businesses in Japan are closed so everyone can partake in the age-old ABOUT THE AUTHOR tradition. Atago Shrine Koami Shrine While big names such as Meiji This shrine stands atop Atago Hill at a height This historic shrine in Nihonbashi A member of Shrine and Sensoji Temple are of 26 metres and is dedicated to Homusubi- dates back about 1,000 years. It was Japanese reggae top of everyone’s mind for this no-mikoto, a fire deity. It was built in the miraculously left unscathed by the band Shonan no special occasion, and hence are early days of the Edo Shogunate in 1603 by bombings of World War II and, legend Kaze, Shock Eye frequented by overwhelming Tokugawa Ieyasu to protect the capital from has it, that all the soldiers who received has been hailed crowds, there are other shrines fire and disasters. blessings from the shrine during the by local media to visit, too. Locals call these Its best-known feature is the steep stone conflict returned home safely. As such, as a lucky charm lucky shrines the ‘power spots’, staircase of 86 flights, which extends up from it is celebrated for its ability to ward off or, in local lingo, in reference to their purported the main gate to the leafy inner grounds. The harm. At the annual Doburoku Festival Tower Daijingu ‘walking power rich spiritual and mystical stairs are known as the ‘stone steps to success’, in November, visitors can receive This shrine, the highest in inner Tokyo, is located on the second floor of Tokyo Tower’s spot’. Rumour energy, which you can ‘tap into’ due to an origin story in which Magaki doburoku (unfiltered sake) made from recently renovated observation deck. It was consecrated by the Ise Grand Shrine in 1977 and has it that setting to connect with nature and your Heikuro, a Sanuki clan member, rode his horse the year’s new grain harvest and witness as such, boasts a powerful origin. Today it’s linked to the fulfillment of romantic aspirations his photo as the wallpaper on your phone’s locked surroundings. So open your mind up the hill on the orders of third-generation the Satokagura-mai, a sacred dance and the answering of prayers. Because of its sky-high location, at 150 metres above the screen will somehow improve your luck. Follow him and kickstart the new year on a Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu to prove that he that has been designated a national ground, the shrine is a frequent destination for students praying for ‘higher’ grades. on Instagram @shockeye_official. positive note at one of these seven was the best horseman in all of Japan. intangible folk culture asset. However, to get into the observation deck, you need to cough up ¥1,200 for the admission fee. good-luck ‘power spots’ in and à1-5-3 Atago, Minato (Kamiyacho Station). 03 3431 0327. à16-23 Nihonbashi Koamicho (Ningyocho Station). àTokyo Tower Main Deck 2F, 4-2-8 Shibakoen, Minato (Akabanebashi Station). 03 3433 5111. tokyotower.co.jp. around Tokyo. atago-jinja.com. 03 3668 1080. koamijinja.or.jp.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 44 45 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Advertisement feature Advertisement feature Up-and-comers

Hokkaido: ‘Eating Out’ in a reputation for its 100 percent Tokachi local wine. You can try your hand The vast fields and mountains of at making the stuff yourself by Nagano: ‘Snow and Shinshu Cuisine’ at the Tokachi region in Hokkaido signing up for one of Tsuno’s wine Restaurant Kamakuramura in Iiyama serve as the stage for this experiences, during which local Eat your way outdoorsy food tour. Participants producers teach participants all get to enjoy lunch and dinner made about the vinification process. with local ingredients using portable Armed with all that knowledge, you cooking equipment, all under the then get to sample a pairing of Tsuno around Japan with open sky – actual venues range from wine and select delicacies while a cattle farm to a snowy hillside at the looking out over the Pacific from the height of winter, when temperatures hosting winery’s restaurant. in Tokachi can sink below minus 20 Eat! Meet! Japan degrees. Kagoshima: ‘Dashi with the Five Senses’ in Not sure what food experiences to go for? Start with these award-winners Miyagi: ‘Underwater Sake Makurazaki Journey’ in Kesennuma Katsuobushi, or dried, fermented Did you know that some sake is and smoked skipjack tuna flakes, eady for the culinary experience of a lifetime? aged under water? Learn all about is an essential Japan is considered a dream destination for this unique practice in the seaside ingredient in Rfoodies, and for good reason: the nation’s city of Kesennuma, where the Japanese cuisine. gastronomic culture is among the deepest anywhere, ‘Underwater Sake Journey’ lets The flakes are Niigata: ‘Mushroom-picking and even the cheapest meals are usually delicious, and you in on the alcoholic secrets of primarily used to Cooking’ in Matsunoyama Onsen Tokyo alone has a whopping 226 Michelin-starred the ocean. Participants get to raise make dashi, the restaurants – more than any other city in the world, booze barrels from a depth of 15 umami-packed tour ends with a mushroom-heavy last time we checked. If such abundance makes it metres and lower new ones into the broth that forms dinner enjoyed while sitting around a hard to decide what delicious eating experiences sea, where they will be watched over the foundation traditional irori hearth. to go for during your trip, the new Eat! Meet! Japan by local oyster farmers for an entire of washoku. The project is worth keeping an eye on. Run by the Ministry of year. southern city of Yamagata: ‘Food and Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, it highlights exciting Makurazaki is Asceticism’ in the Dewa food-related initiatives that combine eating with non- Kagawa: ‘Sanuki Udon Japan’s leading Miyazaki: ‘Making Local Wine’ in Tsuno Mountains food topics such as art, sports, technology or history. Akita: ‘Kiritanpo- and Traditional Homes’ at producer of Religious ascetics have practiced Eat! Meet! Japan recently picked out making and Farm Udon House katsuobushi and the ideal place to vegetables. The experience ends with in the Dewa mountain range for 14 particularly noteworthy food-and- Stay’ in Odate Serious fans of Kagawa prefecture’s learn more about the intricacies of a cooking class, which challenges centuries, and their influence something-else experiences from a signature udon may want to dashi. ‘Dashi with the Five Senses’ participants to turn the ingredients is evident even in the region’s whopping 167 applications. We now consider a stay at Udon House, a takes you from a fish flake factory they bought at the market into a culinary culture. These austere give you the worthy winners. guest house themed entirely on to a cooking class and on to a local traditional ichiju sansai (one soup practitioners live off the land these thick wheat noodles. Besides restaurant; other than bathing in the and three sides) meal. by foraging edible plants and making your own udon, you get to stuff, it’s probably the most immersive mushrooms in the mountains and learn about the history, culture dashi experience out there. Mie: ‘Tasty Farm Travels – turning their catch into vegetarian and flavour-related secrets of the Matsusaka Beef Sukiyaki’ shojin ryori (Buddhist cuisine). dish. After the noodle-making, Ishikawa: ‘Food Culture in Taiki ‘Food and Asceticism’ participants Grand Prize participants are led to a nearby farm at Omicho Market’ in Live the country life at Furusato Mura, pull on white robes and ascend the to harvest vegetables, giving them Kanazawa a riverside village that’s all about mountains together with bona fide Tokyo: ‘Tsukiji Cooking’ a comprehensive understanding of Omicho Market is one of encouraging guests to experience ascetics, who treat their guests to in Tsukiji where food comes from in Kagawa Kanazawa’s most popular tourist local farming, fishing and forestry. a cleansing meal and teach them Nagano: ‘Snow – a prefecture where udon eateries attractions, but few travellers are The ‘Tasty Farm Travels’ tour caters how to survive without vending and Shinshu Cuisine’ outnumber convenience stores two able to peek behind the scenes of especially to gourmands: participants machines, supermarkets and at Restaurant to one. the bustling bazaar. This excursion get to pick vegetables and other urban conveniences. Kamakuramura in involves market employees and mushrooms, cook rice on a traditional Iiyama Runners-up Kyoto: ‘Tea Tourism’ in Wazuka Miyazaki: ‘Making Local local chefs sharing the secrets of stove, and savour sukiyaki hot pot Aichi: ‘Matcha Meal and The city of Iiyama in Nagano Wine’ in Tsuno food culture in Kanazawa, beginning made with high-quality ingredients Dessert Experience’ in prefecture is known as one of The town of Tsuno produces high- with a tour of the market and tips such as local Matsusaka beef. Nishio the snowiest places in Japan, Akita: ‘Kiritanpo-making Tokyo: ‘Tsukiji Cooking’ Kyoto: ‘Tea Tourism’ in quality fruit, vegetables, beef and on everything from how to gut a fish Famed for its matcha tea, the city so the local Shinshu Iiyama and Farm Stay’ in Odate in Tsukiji Wazuka much more, but it’s recently earned to how to recognise the best local Niigata: ‘Mushroom- of Nishio in Aichi prefecture offers tourist bureau appears to have Always wanted to stay the night at The Tsukiji Cooking class at Tsukiji Fans of green tea owe it to themselves picking and Cooking’ in a dream itinerary for travellers who picked a low-hanging fruit with a farm? Pastoral accommodation Outer Market, the remaining part of to visit Wazuka. This town of 3,800 Matsunoyama Onsen just can’t get enough of the green this tasty experience. Rather and local delicacies are on the menu Tokyo’s former wholesale fish market, people located just south of Kyoto is It’s shrooms or nothing at powder. Participants get to plan than a traditional restaurant, in the northern city of Odate, where is your gateway to the secrets of considered the birthplace of Japan’s Matsunoyama, a picturesque their ideal tour by choosing one Kamakuramura is a cluster of you’re invited to join a local farmer’s Japanese cuisine. While Tsukiji is best tea culture, where green tea fields hot spring resort where you can meal, dessert and experience from igloos (kamakura in Japanese) family in cooking kiritanpo hot pot, an known for its fresh seafood and sushi stretch towards the horizon in every join a guide on an early-winter an all-matcha lineup; how about in which diners can huddle up Akita speciality made with heirloom restaurants, the folks behind Tsukiji direction. The English-language ‘tea mushroom-picking trip into the picking tea in the fields or visiting a to enjoy miso-based noroshi hot chicken broth and cylindrical rice Cooking are eager to emphasise that tours’ offered here attract more nearby mountains. After gathering matcha factory, and powering up with pot, a warming and nutritious dish skewers. You’ll also get to help out their class is about more than just than 1,000 non-Japanese travellers enough oyster, nameko and other some matcha packed with local tubers and on the farm before staying the night sushi. Besides private and group annually and take participants from seasonal mushrooms, participants soba noodles mushrooms. Making friends with surrounded by nature. The hosts are lessons, they offer a range of unique the lush fields to a tea factory and on head to a traditional home in the and a decadent the locals over a steaming meal all friendly and welcoming, so you experiences – how about learning to have ‘tea soba’ noodles for lunch. town, where a local chef will be on matcha parfait inside a real snow castle sure won’t need to worry too much about from a Michelin-starred chef or taking The tours also include an opportunity Yamagata: ‘Food and Asceticism’ Kagawa: ‘Sanuki Udon and hand to impart knowledge on how to afterwards? sounds like something special. the language barrier. a tour of the Outer Market with a local? to taste nine varieties of Japanese tea. in the Dewa Mountains Traditional Homes’ at Udon House clean, store and cook the fungi. The DANDELION CHOCOLATE It’s impossible not to get excited about chocolate as you take in the component parts of this café and factory, Eating & from the enormous sacks of cacao beans to the shiny metal vats filled with tempered chocolate. Dandelion Chocolate originates in San Francisco but their location in Kuramae, with its modern rustic interior, fits right into this quiet neighbourhood known for its Drinking vibrant artisan community. It’s difficult to choose any single dessert here; luckily many of the sweets are available in a set. Get the brownie flight to sample three baked chocolate cakes made with different varieties of cacao, or the Chef’s Tasting, a dessert platter of five mini treats, including a chocolate MAMANO CHOCOLATE choux and pistachio crème brûlée. Mamano prides itself on being fair-trade as well as organic, dutifully à 4-14-6 Kuramae, Taito (Kuramae Station). 03 5833 7270. tinyurl.com/ sourcing beans from Arriba cacao farms in Ecuador to use in its TOTdandelionkuramae. 10am-8pm (last orders 7.30pm) daily. colourful creations. Arriba cacao is so rare that it is only used in two percent of the world’s chocolate produce. The beans are farmed using sustainable methods to protect the surrounding Amazon forest, free of pesticides and chemical fertilisers. The fresh ganache and bonbons at Mamano are labelled as ‘chocolate of the gods’, a reference to how cacao was originally considered to be sustenance only for kings and deities, celestially dusted with gold and artfully marbled in multiple colours. In winter, you can get the Mamano hot chocolate, made with 50 percent milk, and have the sweetness adjusted to your liking (you should also ask for the seasonal flavoured ones as well). In the warmer months, a popular item is the refreshing yet decadent chocolate kakigori (shaved ice dessert), which comes in flavours such as chocolate orange and honey lemon. à 3-8-8 Akasaka, Minato (Akasaka-Mitsuke Station). 03 6441 2744. mamano-chocolate.com. 11am-9pm, Fri 11am-10pm, Sat & Sun 11am-7pm. Hot chocolate From dark, bitter truffles to creamy white bonbons, these chocolate shops are the most decadent in Tokyo. By Emma Steen MINIMAL TOMIGAYA ARTICHOKE LE CHOCOLAT DE H Minimal founder Takashi Yamashita equates Artichoke’s playful take on chocolate sets Trust upscale Ginza to house one of the finest IF WILLY WONKA had started a chocolate factory in KEN’S CAFE chocolate to Japanese cuisine in that both taste itself apart from other boutiques of its kind. chocolate boutiques around. Le Chocolat Tokyo, he’d be well behind the game by now. While better without the addition of unnecessary Here, you’ll find a myriad of choccy creations de H was started by celebrated chocolatier the bean to bar movement is relatively new, Tokyo’s TOKYO ingredients or flavourings. The company’s disguised as other food, such as white and pâtissier, Hironobu Tsujiguchi, who has chocolate scene has long been highly competitive. There’s no fussing with espresso purist approach is reflected in its name: chocolate made to look like eggs sunny-side- showcased his creations at Salon du Chocolat Annual local events such as the prestigious Salon powder or vanilla extract in a straightforward, gimmick-free attitude up, chicken drumsticks and even grilled unagi. since 2013 – he even took the gold medal for du Chocolat from France identify the best chocolate this kitchen. Ken’s Cafe Tokyo where everything is made with integrity and Aside from the quirky takes on savoury dishes, one year. makers in the country and see how they compare sticks to the basics by using simplicity without excessively elaborate the shop also offers a selection of beautifully You can buy coffrets of Le Chocolat de H’s to overseas experts through a showcase of specially just four ingredients in their packaging or overly complicated flavours. crafted bonbons and single-origin bars, each signature chocs, or pick a limited-edition box crafted bonbons with exquisite ganaches as well as only product. Unsalted butter, Minimal’s neatly packaged chocolates are with a unique flavour profile due to the way featuring the award-winning creations that chocolate-based desserts ranging from soft-serves sugar, eggs and chocolate stamped with colour-coded profiles detailing each individual batch is roasted. were showcased at Salon du Chocolat earlier in to éclairs. make for a simple yet winning each bar’s origin, texture, sugar content, While the chocolates make for the perfect the year; expect daring flavour combinations The following speciality stores are run by passionate combination in one of the most roast and ratio of beans in such a way that gift for anyone with a sweet tooth, the café such as apricot with miso and caramel, or sake chocolatiers who seek to create new experiences decadent chocolate gâteaux they resemble novelty items. But chocolate menu offers a selection of equally artful and praline. The ¥1,200-a-piece Cacao Blanc through chocolate while helping you appreciate the you’ll ever enjoy. enthusiasts shouldn’t walk away without parfaits (from spring) to be enjoyed in-house, de L’illusion is also worth a splurge as it’s made complex characteristics of cacao that vary according to Despite its unassuming appearance – it looks like a plain chocolate purchasing a few bars to sample and compare. as well as drinks such as the chocolate espresso, with rare white cacao harvested from the Piura terroir. For instance, cacao from Madagascar produces terrine – the ¥3,000 cake has earned Ken’s Cafe a coveted spot in the Top At the café, the indulgent chocolate parfait a cacao concentrate served as a 30ml shot. region of Peru. fruity chocolate with strong acidic notes that lovers of 50 Dessert Shops list by the prestigious Japan Sweets Award for three and hot chocolate are year-round crowd à 4-9-6 Miyoshi, Koto (Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station). 03 6458 5678. à 6-7-6 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 6264 6838. tinyurl.com/ bitter chocolate favour, whereas those from Amazonian consecutive years. Eat it at room temperature and it’s a rich gâteau. pleasers, but don’t overlook the seasonal artichoke.tokyo. 11am-7pm daily. Irregular hols, check website TOTlechocolatdehg. 11am-8pm, Sun & last day of hols 11am-7pm regions such as Ecuador often boast floral nuances When chilled, its texture resembles that of ganache, and when warmed, plated desserts either, such as chocolate flan for details. (last orders 6.30pm), closed Mon. with a fruity finish. So go ahead and indulge – you can the centre liquifies like molten chocolate cake that you can combine with homemade ice cream, pastel parfaits and keep it simple with a single-origin bar, splash out on a with a scoop of ice cream. fruit-filled crêpes. luxurious coffret of assorted sweets, or order an opulent à 1-23-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3354 6206. kenscafe.jp. 10am-7pm, closed Sat, Sun à 2-1-9 Tomigaya, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Koen Station). 03 6322 9998.

dessert to savour there and then. & hols. TANIGAWA KEISUKE DANDELION: tinyurl.com/TOTminimal. 11.30am-7pm daily.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 48 49 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Eating & Drinking Eating & Drinking

KURAND SAKE MARKET This affable standing bar offers a number of bottomless booze options: pick from a worryingly binge-happy 30-minute (¥1,000), 90-minute (¥2,000) or unlimited session (¥3,000); there’s also a weekend-only lunchtime session for ¥2,000. It’s a self-service bar so you can help yourself to over 100 types of sake, as well as beer, umeshu and soft drinks from the fridge. While there’s a small food menu, you are encouraged to bring your own grub or order delivery to CRAYON HOUSE the venue. Crockery, cutlery and a microwave are available as are menus from nearby HIROBA restaurants which deliver. Health-conscious diners will à Matsumoto Bldg 3F, 2-9-10 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). want to make a beeline for Crayon 03 6455 0277. kurand.jp/en/sakemarket/shibuya. 5pm-11pm, Sat House Hiroba for its buffet. The & Sun 12noon-4pm, 5pm-11pm. multi-level, multi-hyphenate Crayon House – it’s a shop/grocer and a healthy-eating restaurant – cooks up organic Japansese- TAIKO CHAYA and western-style dishes and Maguro lovers get precisely 50 minutes to serves them up in the basement feast to their heart’s content at Taiko Chaya’s cafeteria. The lunch buffet is sumptuous tuna spread. Aside from bottomless ¥1,528 (children 7-12 years old tuna sashimi, you can also make a dent in a ¥1,320, 2-6 years old ¥660) while mountain of negi toro (minced tuna with green dinner is ¥2,750 (children 7-12 onion), marinated tuna and – for a little variety – years old ¥1,375, 2-6 years old FUJIYA non-tuna items such as shrimp, mentaiko mayo ¥770) – and you can fill up your Dedicated carnivores should make a beeline to this smart, modern Aoyama (cod roe with mayonnaise), shirasu (whitebait) plate as many times as you wish. yakiniku haunt, where you can have a wallet-friendly but still belly-busting and and some veggies. Both plain white rice and Take your pick from a selection protein-packed Japanese barbecue at any time of day. Lunch will only set you sushi rice are served – though we’d stay off the including salads, pasta, meat back ¥1,200 (¥1,300 for men) while dinner is a mere ¥1,500 (¥1,980 for men). carbs to get more bang for your buck. and cooked vegetables, and dine Both come with bottomless salad, kimchi and soup – although you’re not To enjoy the ¥1,500 buffet, line up for a indoors or alfresco. Each dish here for the sides. It’s all about the meat – pork, beef, chicken and sausages – ticket before the opening time (from 10am). comes with dietary information which comes either lightly salted or marinated like the spicy kalbi beef. For an Otherwise, you can reserve a guaranteed seat on whether it contains meat, additional indulgence, an all-you-can-drink option can also be added for an extra for ¥1,700 per person. While the buffet is only gluten, soy and/or any other ¥1,000 to ¥1,500; it includes soft drinks, beer, wine and your usual Japanese bar available at lunch, there’s still plenty of tuna on allergens. Mondays are staples such as highballs and sours. And there’s good news if you’re going from the a la carte menu come dinner, along with a vegetarian nights while the 10th, Fujiya to a place where you’ll be in close proximity to other people: the powerful live show where a tuna from Toyosu market is 20th and 30th of every month are ventilation fans hanging over each grill ensure you won’t leave smelling like your cut and its parts are auctioned off to be eaten gluten-free nights. Bang for meal. then and there. à B1F, 3-8-15 Kita-Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando à Aoyama Oval Bldg B1F, 5-52-2 Jingumae, Shibuya (Omotesando Station). 03 6427 6029. hachihachi.co.jp. à Saint Pier Bldg B1F, 2-3-2 Nihonbashi Bakurocho, Chuo (Akihabara, Station). 03 3406 6371. tinyurl.com/TOTcrayon. 11.30am-3pm (last orders 2.45pm), 5pm-11pm (10.30pm) daily. Bakurocho stations). 03 3639 8670. taikochaya.jp. 11.30am-1pm (last 11am-11pm (last orders 9.30pm), Sat, Sun & hols the buck orders), 5pm-10pm (last orders), Sun 10.30am-2.30pm (1pm). TANIGAWA KEISUKE 10.30am-11pm (9.30pm).

Elastic waist pants at the ready ESOLA EBISU DAGASHI BAR – Kaila Imada points you to the This free-flowing Italian wine bar is the ideal Take a step back in time at the nostalgic Dagashi Bar, where place to guzzle down a few glasses of vino from you can enjoy all sorts of old-school Japanese snacks and best belly-busting all-you-can-eat a dizzyingly large selection of reds and whites, sweets over a few drinks. The formula is simple: pay ¥500 or -drink deals in Tokyo as well as sangria, wine cocktails and bubblies. table charge, order a drink and a food item from the menu, It’s all so easy here: make a beeline for the and help yourself to the all-you-can-snack selection which chandelier of wine glasses and below it you’ll includes candies, crackers and cookies. IF YOU’VE GOT A BIG APPETITE, Tokyo is find shelf after shelf of bottles separated by It’s a great place to sample unusual Japanese treats, but a great place to take advantage of some chilled and unchilled varieties, which you can you can’t take them home so you’ll have to fully indulge generous food and drink deals. Aside from pour at your leisure. If you’re feeling peckish, at the bar. The cheapest drink on the menu is the ¥450 hotel buffets, the city has a host of restaurants Esola cooks up some hearty fare that pairs well lemon sour or highball, or the ¥580 beer. The food and bars offering all-you-can-eat (tabehodai) with wine, such as grilled steaks, pasta and menu, on the other hand, offers an assortment of and/or all-you-can-drink (nomihodai) menus. cheese platters; don’t miss out on the addictive izakaya staples like yakisoba (fried noodles) Think your stomach can handle it? Here are French fries slathered with anchovy butter. and takoyaki (grilled balls of dough filled our top picks for great-value gluttony, which The all-you-can-drink wine deal is priced with octopus) as well as desserts such as are all perfect for group dining. Just be sure at ¥1,490 for two hours, or spend an extra fried Oreos, ice cream parfaits and agepan not to overdo it… ¥500 to imbibe at a more civilised pace. For (deep-fried bread) for less than ¥1,000 an greater variety, an option including beer and order. The ¥2,500 all-you-can-drink deal highballs is available at ¥1,990 for two hours offers two hours of drinking and, of course, or ¥2,490 with no time limit. the dagashi sweets bar. à Uehara Ginza Bldg 1F, 1-35-2 Uehara, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Uehara à 1-13-7 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 5458 5150. Station). 03 6407 1668. esolas.gorp.jp. 5pm-12midnight, Sat dagashi-bar.com. 5pm-12midnight, Fri, Sat & day before hols KEISUKE TANIGAWA KEISUKE KISA TOYOSHIMA 12noon-12midnight, Sun 12noon-11pm, closed Mon. FUJIYA: KISA TOYOSHIMA 5pm-3.30am, Sun & hols 5pm-11.30pm.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 50 51 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Stock + Shopping & Style Visit any Japanese shrine and you’ll see plenty of stickers and placards posted around the vicinity. These senjafuda, paper or wooden tags with names of worshippers etched or printed on them, also make for great souvenirs. At Stock +, you can have your name engraved on a wooden sign, which is then attached to a strap or string to create a unique Shopping keychain or necklace. Don’t have a Japanese name? No worries; the staff can translate your name intokanji characters bestowed with good fortune. You are also able to choose the type of wood as well & Style as the design featured on the front and back of the tag. Bonji sanskrit characters can also be added for good luck, and are determined by your Chinese zodiac animal. A senjafuda starts at ¥1,100 and is available in various sizes; the extra large version is perfect as a personalised luggage tag. While you’re there, take advantage of the photo corner, where you can pose in colourful yukata and happi jackets. This service is free with any senjafuda purchase. à5-15-1 Ginza, Chuo (Higashi-Ginza Station). 03 5148 5525. One of senjafuda.com. 10am-8pm, Sat 12noon-6pm, closed Sun & hols. Kakimori A gem of a store in old town Kuramae, a kind Kakimori is best known for its custom KISA TOYOSHIMA notebooks (around ¥1,000 to ¥3,500). The store has got its system down to a tee, These shops offer complete with straightforward English and Japanese White Atelier by Converse Kichijoji personalisation and instructions on how to build your dream A classic pair of Converse is a fashion staple, but did you know you can journal. Make your way through the shelves also personalise your own kicks with the brand? Enter this Converse customisation – from to pick every component of your notebook store, where you can deck out a pair with various designs and patterns bespoke sneakers to jeans and from the paper to the cover, the closure created by popular artists, as well as add on personal touches such as journals. By Kaila Imada and even the spine. Love doodling? Stick to charms and coloured laces – all from ¥9,000 (price includes the shoes). the blank paper options. More of a writer? The process is straightforward. First, try on a sample pair to Kakimori has lots of lined paper and even determine your size and pick either an all-white high- or low-top All calendar-style sheets to fi ll your book. Star, which is exclusive to the White Atelier. The Kichijoji shop also While you wait for your fi nished notebook off ers customisation for toddlers’ and children’s shoes. Next, fl ip – from 20 minutes to an hour – walk over through the design book and pick out your favourite pattern. Converse to the nearby sister store, Inkstand by regularly changes the options to showcase diff erent Kakimori, and pair your new journal with a artists, but there are also simpler typography options pen and custom ink colours. (English alphabets, katakana and numbers). à1-6-2 Misuji, Taito (Kuramae Station). 050 1744 8546. tinyurl. The entire process takes about an hour and a half, com/TOTkakimorityo. 11am-7pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols). so you’ll have your unique pair on the same day. How easy is that? à2-15-4 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 29 0131. whiteatelier-by-converse.jp. 11am-8pm daily. Levi’s Good denim is an investment and you can make it more worthwhile by creating your bespoke pair of jeans from scratch. The new Levi’s fl agship store on Cat Street in Harajuku off ers the Lot No. 1 service; the fi rst of its kind in Asia, it allows denim hounds to create or customise a pair of jeans The Flavor Design with the help of in-house expert tailor Mio Yamamoto. The entire process This unique perfumery off ers scents for your home. You’ll from start to fi nish takes about a month. fi nd everything from air fresheners to candles, including For those short on time, you can still personalise your denim at the DIY sessions for shoppers looking to create their own third-fl oor Tailor Shop, fabric mist (¥4,500). To participate, simply make a adding features like reservation via its website. embroidery, distressing, During the session you’ll sniff around 25 seasonal panelling, studs, buttons fragrances – the scents are inspired by surprisingly and patches from as little specifi c moods and settings, such as ‘a casual night in as ¥500. Moreover, you can Los Angeles’ or ‘a country road in Hawaii’, as well as other also print various patterns fruity and fl oral aromas. Once you’ve decided on your and designs on the T-shirts fragrance of choice, you’ll also need to select a container bought in-store – so you can and cap before mixing and bottling your scent, complete get a complete, one-of-a- with a custom card and label. Other items in the shop kind outfi t. can also be affi xed to the label, making for a perfect à6-16-16 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku, personalised gift. Meiji-Jingumae stations). àKaneko Bldg 1F, 1-15-1 Kamimeguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 6712 7117. 03 6427 6107. levi.jp. 11am-8pm daily. theflavordesign.com. 1pm-7pm, Sat & Sun 12noon-8pm, closed Tue & Wed.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 52 53 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Things

to Do © EIICHIRO ODA/SHUEISHA, TOEI ANIMATION. © AMUSEQUEST TOKYO TOWER LLP TOKYO ONE PIECE TOWER The first theme park of the pirate manga and anime series ‘One Piece’ occupies four floors of the iconic Tokyo Tower. For those unfamiliar with the plot, which centres around Monkey D. Luffy and his Straw Hat Crew, not to worry: a short video of their adventures plays across a massive © KCJ GROUP (KIDZANIA) 360-degree screen right after the entrance. KIDZANIA TOKYO Of the nine attractions, each based on a different Playtime can be educational too, especially at KidZania Tokyo, which character, we recommend Robin’s Finding Ponegliff, a introduces future generations to the world of work through fun puzzle game that will have you searching far and wide activities. Here, children can role play – as pilots or cabin attendants, for clues to solve mysteries. You’ll get hints (available in police officers, firefighters, car mechanics or factory workers, all set The in English) from archeologist Robin through ‘Transponder in a fully realised miniature city complete with shops, vehicles and a snail’ telephones. If that sounds a tad too energetic, you functioning society. can sit down for an exciting 20-minute live show starring Non-Japanese speakers should drop in on Wednesdays, when around Luffy and friends, complete with projection mapping and 40 out of the 100 or so available ‘jobs’ and services can be experienced crowd lighting technology. entirely in English. The kids are also paid a salary at the end of their stint, On your way out, pick up some ‘One Piece’ merchandise in the form of the city’s own kidZos currency, which can be used to shop at the shop, or fuel up on hearty meals including risotto and at the department store and soft-serve ice cream parlour, or redeem for Have fun while staying pizzas at Sanji’s Oresama Restaurant. several services including the rental of child-sized cars. Activities are warm at Tokyo’s top à Tokyo Tower (Foot Town), 4-2-8 Shiba-koen, Minato (Akabanebashi Station). designed for ages three to 15, and reservations are recommended. indoor amusement 03 5777 5308. onepiecetower.tokyo. 10am-10pm (last entry 9pm). ¥3,300 à Urban Dock LaLaport Toyosu, North Port 3F, 2-4-9 Toyosu, Koto (Toyosu Station). 0570 06 4012. parks. By Tabea Greuner (adv ¥3,000), junior high and high school students ¥2,800 (¥2,600), 4-12 year olds tinyurl.com/TOTkidzania. Two sessions: 9am-3pm, 4pm-9pm. Prices differ by session and day, check website ¥1,600 (adv ¥1,500), FREE for younger children. for details.

WITH TEMPERATURES regularly dropping below 10ºC, winter NAMJATOWN & MAZARIA in Tokyo is freezing, but there’s Ikebukuro’s indoor theme park Namjatown – with its huge range of AR attractions no need to be stuck in your LEGOLAND DISCOVERY and rides – is also an unlikely hotspot for fans of dumplings. An alley decorated with hotel room with the heating red lanterns and flanked by one gyoza shop after another, the Namja Gyoza Stadium on. Tokyo has some fantastic CENTER serves up about 100 different kinds of dumplings, while the nearby Fukubukuro indoor amusement parks Tokyo’s Legoland Discovery Center may Dessert Yokocho offers fancy cakes and crepes. where you can escape into not be as big as the ones in California The three-floor facility was recently upgraded with a new extension across the virtual reality, hang out with and Denmark but for fans of the world- top levels – the Mazaria, a VR facility with about 20 games and attractions spread Hello Kitty and friends, play conquering plastic bricks, it still offers out across four zones. Here you can turn into Pac-Man and munch cookies in a with anime pirate Luffy and his bundles of fun. There are two rides maze while avoiding mean ghosts, and partake in a virtual taiko drum festival at crew, and plenty more besides. to enjoy: at Kingdom Quest you must Taiko no Tatsujin by using your whole body to create sounds. Need a bigger boost of You’ll forget about the single- rescue a princess by zapping trolls and adrenaline? Escape from ferocious dinosaurs in the survival game Jungle of Despair; digit chills outside in no time. skeletons from your chariot, while over find your way out of the abandoned Hospital Escape Omega while being attacked by at Merlin’s Apprentice Ride, you’ll enter zombies; or get on a helicopter and fight Godzilla together with your friends. a fantasy world where you’ll attempt to à Sunshine City World Import Mart Bldg 2-3F, 3-1-3 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima (Ikebukuro, Higashi-Ikebukuro stations). TOKYO JOYPOLIS become the wizard’s top apprentice by Mazaria Namjatown 050 5835 2263, Mazaria 050 2018 7899. bandainamco-am.co.jp/tp/namja/en, bandainamco-am.co.jp/others/

One of the few indoor amusement parks helping him conjure magic. © NINTENDO LICENSED BY NINTENDO. © BANDAI NAMCO AMUSEMENT INC mazaria/en. ¥800, children aged 4 to 12 ¥500; passport ticket set for both parks ¥5,500, children aged 7 to 12 ¥3,700. in Odaiba, Tokyo Joypolis is packed with You can also tour a Lego factory, Sega’s virtual reality attractions across three admire a stunning diorama of Tokyo floors. There are a total of 21 thrilling rides built entirely with the iconic bricks, and activities, most of which are available in and catch a film at the 4D cinema. Kids SANRIO PUROLAND English. Enjoy a rafting adventure along the especially will love the Lego NinjaGo This indoor theme park in Tama city is a dream come true for fans of Sanrio, the Wild River or board the Wild Wing, a hang- City Adventure, where they can conquer creators of Hello Kitty and friends. Upon arrival, take the escalator down to a fairytale glider flying over tropical islands. For even various obstacle courses. Dinosaur fans, kingdom of hyper-cuteness, where you’ll enjoy a kabuki-style Hello Kitty musical greater thrills, you and up to five of your friends meanwhile, should explore the Dino (with translations in Chinese, Korean and English), explore the cat-girl’s mansion can arm yourselves with laser guns and fight Island to create their own stop-motion to see how she goes about her daily life, and of course, meet and take photos with zombies at the Zero Latency VR attraction short film. Oh, and don’t leave without the feline female herself. There’s also a colourful parade plus an entertaining My (reservations essential; additional fee applies: taking a photo with the huge resident Melody ride. ¥1,800, Sat, Sun & hols ¥2,000 per person). Lego T-Rex. Fans of the lazy egg Gudetama, who joined the Sanrio family back in 2013, can à Decks Tokyo Beach 3F-5F, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato (Odaiba Kaihinkoen à Decks Tokyo Beach, Island Mall 3F, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato enter the character’s world on the first floor, with several activities on offer including Station). 03 5500 1801. tinyurl.com/TOTjoypolis. 10am-10pm (last (Odaiba Kaihinkoen Station). 0800 100 5346. tinyurl.com/ bowling and dancing games. When you’re feeling peckish, visit one of the four on-site entry 9.15pm). ¥800, children aged 7 to 17 ¥500; passport ticket TOTlegoland. 10am-8pm (last entry 6pm), Sat, Sun & hols restaurants and order one of the many Instagrammable menu items, including a Hello (admission & rides) ¥4,500, children ¥3,500; night passport ticket from 10am-9pm (last entry 7pm). Adv ¥1,950, Sat, Sun & hols Kitty curry, a Gudetama roast beef rice bowl and My Melody dessert cups. 5pm (Sat, Sun & hols from 4pm) ¥3,500, children ¥2,500. Show your ¥2,200, after 4pm ¥1,800 (no entry for only adults; check à 1-31 Ochiai, Tama (Tama Center, Keio Tama Center stations). 042 339 1111. tinyurl.com/TOTpuroland. Hours differ daily, check © 1976,1996,1999,2019 SANRIO CO., LTD. passport for ¥300 discount. website for special adults night). LEGO, THE LEGO LOGO, THE BRICK AND KNOB CONFIGURATIONS AND LEGOLANDTHE ARE LEGO TRADEMARKS GROUP. © 2019 THE LEGO GROUP OF website for details. ¥3,300 (Sat, Sun & hols ¥3,900), children aged 3-17 ¥2,500 (¥2,800), FREE for children aged two and younger.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 54 55 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Things to Do Things to Do

TIME OUT LOVES Hello kitty Saitama

Six purr-fect things to do for those who love the company of cats. By Tabea Greuner

DID YOU KNOW that Tokyo has a ‘cat town’? Studio Ghibli films, in particular ‘Whisper of The quaint, traditional neighbourhood of the Heart’ and ‘The Cat Returns’. Exhibitions Yanaka, which stretches southwards from change regularly, covering a wide range of Nippori Station, is home to plenty of friendly mediums from ceramic art and sculpture stray cats. As such, you’ll find many businesses to painting and photography. Note that the here inspired by or simply celebrating these gallery is only open from Thursday through adorable felines, including cafés, gift shops to Sunday. and even a gallery. Here are four of Yanaka’s à2-6-24 Yanaka, Taito (Sendagi Station). 03 5815 2293. best cat-friendly locations, plus two more gallery.necomachi.com. 11am-6pm (last day of exhibition until 5pm), pawsome venues in other parts of Tokyo. closed Mon-Wed. NECO SEKAI MANEKIYA 1. Neco Sekai, close to Kichijoji Station, 4. Snacking along the Yanaka Ginza 1 sells everything a cat-parent’s heart desires. shopping street is a must when visiting Tokyo’s This speciality pet store carries a large ‘cat town’, and Manekiya should definitely selection of toys and collars for your cats as well be on your list. This little take-out joint sells as more luxurious items including hammocks, taiyaki in the shape of lucky cats, which it calls chalice-shaped bowls and automatic water ‘fuku-nyan-yaki’, and you can watch the staff dispensers. It even has trendy bags and make the classic dessert in large cast-iron pans. backpacks to carry your fur-kid in. If you’re The little crunchy cakes come in four different looking for cat-themed gifts for the owners fillings: red bean paste, custard cream, matcha instead, Neco Sekai also offers tote bags, with red bean paste or pizza flavour. So make accessories, coin cases and more, all featuring sure to get at least two different flavours for adorable cat motifs. comparison – you won’t regret it. àCoppice Kichijoji Bldg A 4F, 1-11-5 Kichijoji-honcho, Musashino à3-9-15 Yanaka, Taito (Sendagi, Nippori stations). 03 5834 8139. (Kichijoji Station). 0422 27 2612. necosekai.net. 10am-9pm daily. manekiya-gurume.com. 11am-6pm, Sat, Sun & hols 11am-6.30pm, closed Wed (next day if Wed is hols). NEKO SHIKI Tokyo 2. Venture out to Mizonokuchi Station in NECO ACTION Tokyo’s neighbouring prefecture Kanagawa 5. You can spot Neco Action easily from – only a 15-minute train ride from Shibuya afar – two comical black cats with yellow Station – and participate in a one-of-a-kind eyes greet you from the large sign above the yoga session. At the rescue cat café Neko Shiki entrance. Step into a shopful of kitty-themed you can relax, stretch and pose in the company souvenirs, spanning from stationery, T-shirts, of charming felines on the third Sunday and towels and socks to tumblers, mugs, magnets, fourth Saturday of each month from 10am. As phone cases and much else besides. You can yoga mats are provided, you only have to bring even shop for items created in collaboration some comfortable clothing, a towel and water. with local cat-loving artists, such as hand- It’s okay to interact with the cats during the painted and realistic-looking maneki-neko 60-minute class (¥2,990) – but you might want (lucky cat) figurines by illustrator Hitomi, to avoid striking a downward dog pose. paintings by Japanese artist Inukai, and àToho Bldg 3F, 1-20-10 Mizonokuchi, Takatsu, Kawasaki, Kanagawa unique cat figurines made out of clay by (Mizonokuchi Station). 044 814 0807. neko-shiki.net/index.html. artist Rie. Yoga lesson 3rd Sun & 4th Sat of a month, ¥2,990; cat café 12noon- à3-10-5 Nishi-Nippori, Arakawa (Nippori Station). 03 5834 8733. 8pm (last entry 7.30pm), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols), from 30min necoaction.com. 11am-6pm, closed Mon (open hols). ¥900 (Sat, Sun & hols ¥1,000). Primary school students have to be accompanied by an adult, no admission for younger children. CAFÉ NEKOEMON 6. Set in a renovated 90-plus-year-old GALLERY NECOMACHI wooden house in Yanaka, Café Nekoemon lets black or white éclair (¥440). Japanese-style 3. Tucked away on a side street in Yanaka, you paint your own maneki-neko figurine over desserts are available as well – think anmitsu Gallery Necomachi holds exclusively cat- a cup of tea and some sweets (set with small (jelly in sugar syrup topped with red bean jam) Kanagawa themed exhibitions. An ivy-covered stone figurine ¥1,650, or ¥2,200 for a bigger moggy). or ice cream with red bean paste, both of which staircase, adorned with realistic-looking white If you’ve already purchased a cute beckoning come with wafers in the shape of a cat’s head cat figurines at the bottom and on top plus a cat at its sister shop next door, then just come and a cup of green tea (¥770 each). feline-shaped fence, leads to the three-storey for the kitty-shaped pastries and cakes: Mont à5-4-2 Yanaka, Taito (Sendagi Station). 03 3821 0090. tinyurl.

building. The storybook setting brings to mind Blanc, cheesecake (both at ¥495 each) or the com/TOTnekoemon. 11am-6pm, closed Mon. ILLUSTRATIONS BY MISO OKADA

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 56 57 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo MISAKO & ROSEN GALLERY In the residential neighbourhood of Otsuka is one of Art & Tokyo’s trendiest art spaces, which is home to some of the city’s most charismatic gallery owners. Founded in 2006, Misako & Rosen Gallery is located inside the striking Treeness House, a visionary building that looks like a concrete stack of potplants, designed by Culture Japanese architect Akihisa Hirata. The gallery was founded by Misako and Jeffrey Rosen, who previously worked for Taka Ishii and Tomio Koyama, both celebrated founders from the first generation of Tokyo galleries. Seeking out artworks

that are either highly abstract or humourous, the TABLE TENDER TOKYO gallery represents 28 contemporary artists from Japan and abroad. TOKYO STATION GALLERY Notable upcoming exhibitions include Takashi A boon to commuters, this glass-fronted space exhibits art from the late Yasumura, who gained recognition in Japan and 19th century to the present day by both Japanese and international abroad with his series ‘Domestic Scandals’ from artists. As well as being the oldest venue on this list, it is also the most 2005 – which features still-life representations of atmospheric, having eschewed the standard white walls for the station’s traditional and modern objects found in his childhood iconic exposed brickwork. These walls have been graced by works Small home in Shiga prefecture – as well as Brazilian artist from great masters in the past, including Picasso, Marc Chagall and Paulo Monteiro, whose spatial art such as ‘The Outside Giorgio Morandi, alongside contemporary Japanese artists including of Distance’ explores the relationships between his Yoshimura Yoshio, whose elaborate, design-driven drawings have been oeuvre and the exhibition spaces his work occupies. featured widely in the media. but à Treeness House 1F, 3-27-6 Kita-Otsuka, Toshima (Sugamoshinden Station). 03 à Marunouchi north exit, Tokyo Station, 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo Station). 03 3212 2485. tinyurl. 6276 1452. tinyurl.com/TOTmisakorosen. 12noon-7pm, Sun 12noon-5pm, closed com/TOTtsgallery. 10am-6pm, Fri 10am-8pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols), hols & between exhibitions. mighty Mon, Tue & hols. Admission fee applies.

Art in Tokyo extends beyond the walls of big, venerable museums. Here are seven influential contemporary art galleries scattered FUJIKO-PRO. PHOTOGRAPHER: KEI OKANO throughout the city. INSTALLATION VIEW: TDC 2019 EXHIBITION, TOKYO, 2019 INSTALLATION VIEW: AKIRA THE HUSTLER + JONG YUGYONG 'WELCOME TO THE PARADE'. FINE OTA ARTS, TOKYO, 2019 By Julie Anne Sjaastad PUMP AND NANZUKA, BUMP, TOKYO, JAPAN, 2019. © JULIA CHIANG. NANZUKA OF COURTESY INSTALLATION VIEW OF ‘SHINRO OHTAKE 1975−1989’ AT TAKENINAGAWA, TOKYO, 2019. PHOTO BY KEI OKANO. © SHINRO OHTAKE, COURTESY OF TAKENINAGAWA, TOKYO GINZA GRAPHIC OTA FINE ARTS Ota Fine Arts is one of the NANZUKA TAKE NINAGAWA GALLERY best galleries in Tokyo for Nanzuka was formerly known as Nanzuka This gallery near Tokyo Tower doesn’t just Established as part of DNP’s (Dai contemporary art. Established in Underground (2005-2011) due to its basement promote established names; it also sees itself as Nippon Printing Co, Ltd) cultural 1993 in Ebisu, the gallery is widely location. Despite being just five to ten minutes an incubator of emerging artists. Back during activities in 1986, Ginza Graphic regarded as a pioneer in exhibiting away from the frenetic Shibuya Station, its launch in 2008, the gallery inaugurated Gallery (GGG) is an acclaimed Japanese contemporary work. In TOKYO’S ART SCENE is as Nanzuka is surprisingly calm and quiet, its walls with a show by then-emerging artist space specialising in graphic art promoting superstar artist Yayoi vibrant as it is eclectic, with perfect for a leisurely art-viewing experience. Misaki Kawai, who created ‘Kimagure Float’, a and design. Compared to other art Kusama, it shot to prominence, galleries and museums that This discreet yet charming gallery aims whimsical installation that featured drawings, disciplines, graphic art and design accompanying her rise to boast of architectural grandeur to help Tokyo rediscover postwar Japanese free-standing sculptures and on-wall papier- has a shorter history, which allows international fame. The gallery as well as collections filled artists who have either been ignored or mâché. The show was considered bold when it the gallery to showcase artists strives to provide opportunities for with masterpieces and bold forgotten, such as pop artist Keiichi Tanaami, was organised during the hard-hitting 2008 from various eras and countries. new talents too, and is particularly INSTALLATION VIEWS OF TAKASHI MURAKAMI’S SOLO EXHIBITION© 2019 TAKASHI ‘SUPERFLAT MURAKAMI/KAIKAI DORAEMON’ PERROTIN AT TOKYO, 2019. KIKI CO., ALL LTD. RIGHTS RESERVED. © statements of contemporary who created ‘No More War’, a psychedelic anti- recession as art was seen as an obscene excess GGG has featured works by strong when it comes to showing culture. In the last 30 years or so, war poster, and illustrator Hajime Sorayama, in a time of great economic difficulty. PERROTIN TOKYO graphic designers and illustrators up-and-coming Japanese artists. a number of ambitious and whose works often portray feminine robots in Over the years, Take Ninagawa has produced Located in Roppongi’s Piramide Building, the namesake gallery first such as Paula Scher, to name In recent years, Ota Fine Arts unique galleries have sprung up super-surreal and erotic styles. well-curated exhibitions such as the Japanese opened in Paris in 1990 by influential art dealer Emmanuel Perrotin, just one, an influential figure in has brought more variety to across Tokyo, often in obscure The gallery also supports emerging Japanese premiere of ‘Time Memory’ (2010~) by Shinro who’s credited with launching the careers of some of the art world’s postmodern design. Moreover, the its roster, broadening its focus spaces that reward the intrepid artists by providing them with a stepping stone Ohtake, which featured a series of collages biggest stars, namely Damien Hirst, Kaws and Takashi Murakami. gallery has an additional space, beyond Japanese art to regional and dedicated art followers. into the international art scene. Nanzuka is comprising letters, pamphlets and other Perrotin met Murakami during the 1993 international art fair in Graphic Archive Library, in the works from Southeast Asia, East So while you have heard of often involved in collaborations with creatives packaging materials that the artist collected Yokohama, which led to a fruitful partnership that quickly propelled same building, where you can Asia and the Middle East, as well popular art institutions such in other industries – such as fashion, design over the years. Don’t miss the ‘Optional Murakami into international stardom following his first solo exhibition watch videos and browse GGG as opening locations in Singapore as 21_21 Design Sight and The and music – which expands its influence Art Activity’ series when it’s on – instead of in Paris. The gallery has expanded to six cities around the world, publications – it’s a great place to and Shanghai. National Art Center, Tokyo, you beyond the borders of fine art. featuring artworks, the exhibition explores the including Tokyo, which opened in 2017. Fans of Takashi Murakami learn more about graphic design. à Piramide Bldg 3F, 6-6-9 Roppongi, Minato might not be familiar with these à Shibuya Ibis Bldg B2F, 2-17-3 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). artists’ identities through their belongings. should check out his latest exhibition ‘Superflat Doraemon’ at the Tokyo à DNP Ginza Bldg 1F, 7-7-2 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza (Roppongi Station). 03 6447 1123. tinyurl.com/ independent contemporary art 03 3400 0075. tinyurl.com/TOTnanzuka. 11am-7pm, closed Mon. à 1F, 2-12-4 Higashi-Azabu, Minato (Azabu-juban Station). gallery until January 25. Station). 03 3571 5206. tinyurl.com/TOTggg. TOTotafinearts. 11am-7pm, closed Mon, Sun & hols. galleries that should make it onto 03 5571 5844. tinyurl.com/TOTtninagawa.com. 11am-7pm, closed à Piramide Bldg 1F, 6-6-9 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 6721 0687. tinyurl.com/TOTperrotin. 11am-7pm, closed Sun, hols & Dec 27-Jan 6.

your list, too. Sun, Mon & hols. MISAKO & ROSEN: KISA TOYOSHIMA 11am-7pm, closed Sun & Mon.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 58 59 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Art & Culture Art & Culture

hanging from the ceiling on a ESSENTIAL rope, and using his feet to cover a canvas laid out on the floor below with wildly expressive splatters EXHIBITIONS and strokes. As this sizeable exhibition shows, following the 1972 dissolution of the Gutai group, Shiraga continued to express himself through the dripping and oozing qualities Shows inherent to paint itself, in the process exploring questions of spirituality and human potential. à Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Jan 11-Mar 22. to see Gallery 1&2, 3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 5353 0756. 11am-7pm (last entry 6.30pm), Fri & Sat 11am-8pm (7.30pm), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is this hols), New Year hols. Yasumasa Morimura: Ego SAUL LEITER, 'HARPER'S BAZAAR', FEBRUARY 1959, CHROMOGENIC PRINT. ©SAUL LEITER FOUNDATION Obscura, Tokyo 2020 he was belatedly recognised by One of the last chances to enjoy an winter critics and curators as both a art venue that is among Tokyo’s SCENES FROM THE TALE OF GENJI : SAKAKI AND MIOTSUKUSHI (DETAIL), KANO TAN’YU, 1669. IDEMITSU MUSEUM OF ARTS pioneer of colour photography most pleasant: the Hara Museum, Kano School: The Eyes and as one of the ten most visited By Darren Gore and a major contributor to the art which occupies a distinguished Hands That Controlled the art museums in the world. form’s ‘New York school’. This European-style former residence Painting World This show, held in Tokyo show, a follow-up to Leiter’s 2017 dating back to the 1930s, is set to The Kano School dominated before travelling to Osaka in retrospective at the same venue, close at the end of this year. Artist Japanese painting for several July, is the very first time in includes previously unexhibited Yasumasa Morimura has, as this hundred years, from the late the institution’s almost two- works, both monochrome and show documents, spent the past 15th century through to the century-long history that colour, together with a section three decades using photography, dawn of the Meiji period in a large-scale exhibition of uncovering the mystery of film and performance to 1868. Bringing vivid colouring highlights from its bountiful Leiter’s life thorough materials retrieve his ‘self’ from layers of and firm outlines to a style collection has been held outside from his personal archive. accumulated national, cultural inspired by the work of Chinese of the National Gallery’s own à The Bunkamura Museum of Art, Jan 9-Mar 8. and personal history. Across painters, the Kano ‘school’ was walls. A total of 61 works, all Bunkamura B1F, 2-24-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. 03 work sure to resonate with the in fact more of a family: many being shown in Japan for the 5777 8600. 10am-6pm (last entry 5.30pm), Fri & Instagram generation, for whom of its artists came from the first time, are divided into

AT HANAMAKIAT ONSEN, 1975 Sat 10am-9pm (8.30pm), closed Jan 21 & Feb 18. every selfie involves a degree of same bloodline, with others sections with themes such as The Original Image of Japan ‘performance’, Morimura shows being adopted or marrying ‘Landscape Painting and the Taro Okamoto (1911-1996) Kazuo Shiraga himself in the guise of figures as into the clan. Sometimes Picturesque’ and ‘The Golden is regarded as one of Japan’s This is the first solo Tokyo diverse as Marilyn Monroe and extravagant, sometimes refined, Age of Dutch Painting’, with most emblematic 20th century exhibition by painter Kazuo infamous author Yukio Mishima: works by Kano painters (often artists including Monet, Van artists. Famed for his surrealist- Shiraga (1924-2008), a key the latter is depicted staging his commissioned by emperors Gogh, Rembrandt and Vermeer, influenced take on Japanese member of Japan’s radical post- failed 1970 coup d’état just before and shoguns) responded to the to name but a few. culture, his sculptures and war Gutai group and whose committing ritual suicide. changing times, and reflected à The National Museum of Western Art, Mar paintings can be found not only SECRET SOURCE OF INSPIRATION: VIEW OF GALLERY 2, MASAYA YOSHIMURA innovative, action painting- à Hara Museum of Contemporary Art, Jan 25-Apr the fact that the Kano were 3-Jun 14. 7-7 Ueno Koen, Taito. 03 5777 8600. inside museums and galleries Parreno exploring the boundaries an exhibition that reveals the like work is currently enjoying 12. 4-7-25 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa. 03 3445 well-read intellectuals as well 9.30am-5.30pm (last entry 5pm), Fri & Sat but also dotted around Tokyo and between the real and the essence of creativity. Highlights renewed acclaim. In the mid- 0651. 11am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), Wed (except as artists. This exhibition 9.30am-8pm (7.30pm), closed Mon (except Mar 30 other major cities. This exhibition SPEECH BUBBLES (WHITE), EXHIBITION 1997. VIEW: A TIME COLOURED SPACE, COLLECTION MUSEU2017. SERRALVES, FRAC GRAND PORTO, LARGE — HAUTS-DE-FRANCE,imaginary, DUNKIRK. PHOTO © ANDREA ROSSETTI and seeking a form of include sketches by starchitect 1950s Shiraga devised a method public hols) 11am-8pm (7.30pm), closed Mon (Tue presents paintings from several & May 4), Dec 28-Jan 1. tells the story of how in the early Philippe Parreno: A communication that transcends Kengo Kuma showing the seeds of painting that involved him if Mon is hols), between shows & New Year hols. generations of Kano 1950s Okamoto came to an Manifestation of Objects language. of ideas for some of his current artists, together understanding of ‘Japanese-ness’ Among Tokyo’s major art venues, à Watari-Um Museum of Contemporary Art, until projects, and prototypes by Fumie with other works that was radically different to the Watari-Um is one place Mar 22. 3-7-6 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3402 3001. Shibata, known for her work for which inspired their established notions of refinement consistently demonstrating that 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm, closed Mon (except Muji and the Nine Hours capsule creativity. and restraint. Chancing upon contemporary art can be, besides Nov 4, Dec 30, Jan 13, Feb 24) & Dec 31-Jan 4. hotel chain. à Idemitsu Museum of Arts, some pottery from the Jomon a medium for self-expression à 21_21 Design Sight, until Mar 8. Gallery 1 & 2, Feb 11-Mar 22. Teigeki Bldg 9F, period (14,000-1,000 BCE), and commentary on the state of Secret Source of Inspiration: 9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato. 03 3475 2121. 10am-7pm 3-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. Okamoto perceived a wild vitality things today, a whole lot of fun. Designers’ Hidden Sketches (last entry 6.30pm), closed Tue (except Dec 24 & 03 5777 8600. 10am-5pm (last that he felt was the true essence This show from French mixed- and Mockups Feb 11) & Dec 26-Jan 3. entry 4.30pm), Fri 10am-7pm of his country. This set him off media artist Philippe Parreno 21_21 Design Sight, a sleek (6.30pm), closed Mon (except hols), on expeditions, illustrated here has plenty to captivate more Roppongi venue dedicated to Forever Saul Leiter between shows & New Year hols. through photos taken by the artist casual visitors: ‘speech bubbles’ contemporary design, is offering Saul Leiter (1923-2013) was himself, in search of this same formed by helium balloons fill a rare behind-the-scenes glimpse a prominent New York-based Masterpieces from spirit. In then-poverty stricken the ceiling of a corridor, while at the working processes of some photographer whose career the National Gallery, Tohoku and an Okinawa under recent work ‘The Speaking of Japan’s foremost practitioners flourished from the 1950s London post-war US rule, what Okamoto Stone’ (2018) is a synthetic rock of industrial design, architecture, onwards as he shot for leading London’s National uncovered would manifest itself that contains a hidden speaker interactive development and fashion magazines. But in the Gallery is revered in his iconic work. system enabling it to ‘speak’ more. All 26 current members 1980s he walked away from the far and wide for its à Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum, Until Feb 24. a text written by Parreno and of the Japan Design Committee business, and into obscurity. comprehensive 6-1-19 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 03 3406 0801. voiced by German actress Sandra (established in 1953) have shared The early 2000s, with Leiter now collection of 10am-6pm (last entry 5.30pm), closed Tue (except Hüller. There is a deeper side to work-in-progress sketches, an elderly man, saw him make European master

hols) & Dec 28-Jan 4. such seeming playfulness, with drawings and mockups to form a ‘second debut’ of sorts, when YASUMASA MORIMURA: UNE MODERNE OLYMPIA, 2018. COURTESY OF THE ARTIST © YASUMASA MORIMURA KANRYU, 1973, COLLECTION OF TOKYO OPERA CITY ART GALLERY. PHOTO: KOICHI HAYAKAWA. OIL ON CANVAS, 112.0 X 145.0CM. painters, and ranks VINCENT VAN GOGH, SUNFLOWERS, 1888, OIL ON CANVAS, 92.1×73CM. 1924. © THE FUND, NATIONAL COURTAULD BOUGHT, GALLERY, LONDON.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 60 61 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo BUYING CITY POP Music RECORDS IN TOKYO

COCONUTS DISK EKODA Music nerds love this long-running store for its comprehensive collection of Japanese pop music, with a host of sub-genres that are not found in other record shops. Come here for expert advice on the outer-reaches The of Japanese pop and the chance to encounter unique gems you won’t hear about elsewhere. à1-9-10 Toyotamakami, Nerima (Ekoda Station). coconutdisk.com/ekoda. 03 3948 return 2388. 12noon-9pm daily. of city pop

Kunihiro Miki sheds some light on this iconic sound from the ’80s and charts its unexpected 21st century revival

DJ Notoya, one of the few DJs in ON JULY 5 2017, an old and Tokyo keeping city pop alive and well largely forgotten Japanese song was uploaded onto YouTube. vibe, was prevalent in Japan in Fans pulled the source music and Sirup, a project by Osaka- It drew a surprising amount of the 1970s and 1980s. Notable out of obscurity and Japan’s born singer-songwriter Kyotaro attention and within two years city pop artists include Tatsuro city pop found a new audience whose urban grooves borrow it had accumulated 27 million Yamashita, Eiichi Ohtaki, Yumi overseas. Korean producer influences from R&B and views and counting. What’s Matsutoya, Taeko Onuki, Toshiki Night Tempo, who performed at hip hop. more remarkable is that much Kadomatsu, Hiroshi Sato and the Fuji Rock festival in 2019, is With so much love lavished of the praise in the comments Minako Yoshida. credited as a future funk pioneer on the music, Japanese city pop section was in English. The City pop never entirely and a major force behind the will only get bigger and continue song is Mariya Takeuchi’s 1984 disappeared in Tokyo, thanks to city pop boom in Europe and to evolve. hit ‘Plastic Love’, and it has a small group of DJs who loved America. since become an international this retro sound, including City Pop’s revival isn’t only YUKI NAKAMURA icon of the renewed interest in DJ Notoya, whose recent city about unearthing gems from ‘City pop ELLA RECORDS SHIMOKITAZAWA FACE RECORDS Japanese city pop, a genre of pop mix-CD ‘Tokyo 1980s’ the past for a new audience, The selection at this welcoming store features rock, jazz This Shibuya vinyl vendor focuses on soul, funk and rare music that helped define the was a hit. However, it’s only which is what American label never entirely and Japanese pop from the ’70s and ’80s, and vinyl grooves, meaning DJs seeking smooth Japanese pop local scene in the 1980s. in recent years that the genre Light in the Attic did with its junkies come for its diverse collection ranging from for the dance floor flock to the shop. Face Records also Characterised by complex yet has become a global sensation, recent city pop compilation disappeared in ¥500 best buys to rarer and pricier records. For a record stocks many popular city pop classics. pleasant chord progressions, propelled to fame on the back of ‘Pacific Breeze: Japanese City shop in the city centre, it’s unusually spacious, with à10-2 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3462 sharp and groovy rhythms obscure, internet-based musical Pop AOR & Boogie 1976-1986’. Tokyo’ sofas for customers to lounge on while sampling music. 5696. tinyurl.com/TOTfacerecordsshibuya. 1pm-9pm daily. and similarities to American microgenres such as vaporwave It’s also about a new generation àToyo Kogyo Bldg 3F-3A-3, 2-25-8 Kitazawa, Setagaya soul and AOR (album-oriented and future funk, which sampled of young musicians interpreting (Shimokitazawa Station). 080 4057 0220. ella-records.com. rock) music, city pop, a term many sounds from ’80s Japanese the city pop sound to create 2pm-8pm, closed Mon. believed to have been coined pop songs and borrowed heavily something new, such as Sugar’s by record company executives from the design aesthetics of the Campaign and their glossy, to refer to songs with an urban time such as anime and clip art. contemporary take on city pop,

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 62 63 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Best and let the show take your breath away. Here’s a run down of our five favourites. a friendlier, expect Instead, sets. more intimate as you setting sit mere away feet from the action involving theatrics and elaborate stage of performers dozens don’tRouge-style Moulin expect front oras sipyou ofon thea martini stage watch awe-inspiring shows late into the night. affair, and drinks to accompany offering food You the performances. to can opt have in a meal showare clubs, apubs more to casual burlesque opposed As dances. with sultry inducing acts night of titillating adventure. In Japan, venues are known these as ‘show pubs’ and mix laughter- accident put many off cabaret However, clubs. people to head and the you’re right places in for a Time Out TokyoTime January-March, 2020 EXORBITANT PRICES favourites. Steen ByEmma inTokyo. entertainment after-dark greatest Here are our table, are auniquely Japanese ofthe affairandoffer some to your anddrinkserved with food onstage performances Show which combinecabaret pubs, andburlesque Most of Tokyo’sMost premier showare into crammed pubs tighton back venues alleys, located so Nightlife and of the finding fear yourself in an abysmally club strip by seedy in show in show 64 TOTkaguwa. 6pm-12midnight, closedTue. (Roppongi Station).03 6434 5455.tinyurl.com/ à with the dancers. night by having takena picture After the show, commemorate the following at 9�30pm.second at 7�30pm, with the show starts 45-minute doll). The first a cursed about tells(one number the story cutefeel and creepy parts in equal that can eccentric acts features the show also segments, themed Onfights. top of the Japanese- sword dance and staged modern through history of the country’s elements tackle some costumes) kimono and Here,head. in dancers vibrant Japanese, Kaguwa is the place to that’sa performance uniquely For interested in catching audiences KAGUWA ROPPONGI Roppongi NittakuBldg2F, 3-8-15Roppongi, Minato shinobi shozoku (ninja

YUKI NAKAMURA show at 9�30pm. for a light go snackjust if you’re watching the second have show the first of the night at 7�30pm, or booked performance. You to can opt a fullhere eat meal if you on top of a ¥4,000 guest, coverper to charge watch the element of surprise. with a movingstage platform, adding an extra The dazzling 50-minute on show a is performed technology. stage with modern performances theatre, combining traditional and contemporary you’ve before. Kingyo seen as a ‘Neo operates Kabuki’ the world as well unlike anything as acts Japanese around common in clubs of burlesque classic type Kingyo a ravishingoffers show the that includes From KINGYO ROPPONGI anthereafter additional ¥3,000. costing 8pmbetween and 10pm, with hour every two drinks within a 90-minute if you set go For men, a ¥6,900 cover includes charge session. a 90-minute all-you-can-drink watch the show for ¥5,000, which includes night night andEvery iswomen ladies can Notoccasion. involved in any weddings? your to whole the party club to celebrate the bachelorette where nights you can bring Tantra afor package offers bachelor and dancing. pole curious enough to the ins of and ask outs about don’t tend herean you issue to in be case were from all of the corners world, barriers language With who dancers hail audience members. or minglingtasteful with and the artistic) totaking dance to (don’t the poles worry; it’s to sayunstructured with performers the least, are time slots Entertainment those outside 10pm, 11pm, 12 midnight and 12�45am. at 9pm, for 20 to beginning 25each, minutes that last performances choreographed offers Tantra as an ‘artistic brands itself lounge’ and TANTRA TOTroppongikingyo. 6pm-12midnight, closedMon. à 8pm-1am,tinyurl.com/TOTtantra. closedSun. à 3-14-17 Roppongi, Minato(RoppongiStation).033478 3000.tinyurl.com/ B2F, 3-9-5Roppongi, Minato(RoppongiStation).0357756533. There’s and drink order one food of at least a policy from you venues kind, As of its can expect actors tokabuki actors aerial silk Roppongi dancers, performance. plus all you can drink for the duration of the the show which includes deal charge, a meal are for opting the better ¥6,800 package and drink animals item Party each. one food are toaudience asked members order at least cover of charge ¥4,000 to watch the show and and live vocals into their There’s roles. a as they incorporate dance, drama, humour navigate expertly ensemble the tight area space by featuring split levels, and the long show. Konparu aims to tell through stories hour- its multiple unrelated numbers, presenting short to with the rather go style: than substance here are elaborate to say but there’s the least, the costumes and wide, multi-ruffled dresses, showJapanese pub. With quirky headpieces the quintessential encapsulates perfectly this retro venue of basement Ginza in the heart (Japanese take on Western cuisine) dishes, and redWith booths leather its SHOW KONPARU THE Sun 4.30pm-8pm. Sun 4.30pm-8pm. 8593. show-the-konparu.com.6pm-3am, Sat6pm-12midnight, à Konparu BldgB1F, 8-7-5Ginza, Chuo(ShinbashiStation).036215 The stage cleverlyThe stage expands on the limited 65 yoshoku 3205 0128.kokucho.com. 6pm-12midnight, closedSun. à 10pm. following at 7�30pm, with the at second starts item show and a drink The first each. one food order must system atwhere least guest every Kokucho price the same no Mizuumi uses blue hair. to a band demonsof cutesy with horns and cabaretmaterial, dances from European-style mix of out for an eclectic Look to their seats. in one orthey’re twobefore back songs guided toan audience member take part often selects halfwayon stage through the show: the cast if you from plucked get the audience and put Don’t dance alarmed numbers. with be sultry that alternate humour slapstick spectacles no Mizuumi finds a way to put on bawdy relatively its Despite small stage, Kokucho KOKUCHO NOMIZUUMI Arao BldgB2F, 2-25-2Kabukicho, Shinjuku(ShinjukuStation).03 A sister establishment of RoppongiA sister Kingyo, establishment Time Out TokyoJanuary-March, 2020Time Spas of the LGBT Film silver screen Explore Japan’s sento culture through these four films set in public bathhouses. By Mari Hiratsuka

A QUINTESSENTIAL JAPANESE discovers the joys of sento (and experience, sento, or public automated toilets). baths, are more than just wellness The fi rst public bath in Japan centres to relax, reinvigorate Lucius travels to is Inari-yu (6-27- A place From left: Maiko Asami, Lauren Rose your mind and warm up against 14 Takinogawa, Kita. twitter. Kocher, Lisa Tani, Elin McCready the winter chills – they also com/inariyu_t. 2.50pm-1.15am, function as unoffi cial community closed Wed), a wooden public centres, where folks from the bath in Nishi-Sugamo. In a case of an ‘anime wife’ in order to music,’ says Asami (Maiko, who of places that still aren’t aware of neighbourhood gather to mingle of life imitating art, the retro of our reclaim the term, is a group of five prefers to go by her surname). ‘It’s what LGBTQ+ stands for’. and socialise. With such a great signage produced by the fi lm’s women – Midori Morita, Lauren difficult to cater to the needs of social microcosm on off er, it is no design team was so good it has Rose Kocher, Elin McCready, every individual with our budget More collaborations wonder that directors through been preserved by the sento’s Maiko Asami and Lisa Tani – who and number of staff, but we’re moving forward the years have set movies within owners and continues to be are determined to make Tokyo’s trying to create a space where While Waifu only got up-and- a sento house. Here are our used at the bath today. Other own entertainment scene more everybody can enjoy themselves. running in the past year, the favourite fi lms and where you 'Mio on the Shore' public bathhouses used in the Meet the women accessible to the city’s LGBTQ+ For instance, [at the venue of a group is already looking into the can experience the locations they fi lming includeOedo Onsen community. The group, which has previous Waifu party] the fourth possibility of hosting barrier- were fi lmed in. near future. The scene where The fi lming took place atMatsu- Monogatari (2-6-3 Aomi, Koto. reshaping the city’s held five events in the past year floor is non-smoking and hosts free events in collaboration with the characters are enjoying no-Yu (43 Katsuura, Katsuura, tinyurl.com/TOToom. 11am-8am music and nightlife to resounding acclaim, say they pop-ups for LGBTQ+ zines and other queer parties with a similar MIO ON THE SHORE (2019) a softshell turtle hotpot was Chiba prefecture. 0470 73 0629. daily) in Odaiba and Kita Onsen scene by promoting are open to all people regardless art revolving around topics of agenda by inviting transgender ‘Watashi wa Hikari wo Nigitteiru’ actually shot at two locations: the 2.30pm-10.15pm, closed Thu), the Tengu-no-Yu (151 Yumoto, Nasu, of gender, race, age or sexual gender, sexuality, sex work and DJs who are active around Asia. This highly recommended 2019 sushi restaurant Edoyasu (7-1-8 oldest bathhouse in Chiba which Tochigi prefecture. 0287 76 2008. inclusivity orientation. feminism.’ The women have a clear fl ick is set in the retro townscape Tate-ishi, Katsushika prefecture. has been around for more than kitaonsen.com. 8.30am-4.30pm The group was formed after Elin ‘We have an emphasis on understanding of exactly how of Tate-ishi, which is located in 03 3695 6973. edoyasu-sushi.com. 100 years. Despite the subject daily) in Tochigi prefecture; DISCRIMINATION based on was turned away from a lesbian creating a safe space for feminism they plan to expand their parties. Katsushika prefecture, halfway 5pm-11pm, or while supplies last, matter (and title), ‘Melancholic’ the latter hot spring features a gender and sexuality is an issue in party in Shinjuku Ni-chome – not just for women,’ adds They want to tap into a notable between central Tokyo and Narita closed Sun & hols) and the popular is surprisingly uplifting – mixing striking giant tengu (long-nosed many communities and Tokyo’s for being a trans woman. After Lauren. network of female DJs, including Airport in Chiba. Written and Chinese restaurant Lanzhou action, comedy, romance and goblin) mask in its interior. music and nightlife scene is no realising there weren’t enough the likes of 7e, who debuted at Fuji directed by Ryutaro Nakagawa (4-25-1 Tate-ishi, Katsushika family drama to giddy eff ect. exception. Waifu, whose name party venues in the city where A place like Koenji or Rock last year, or Vitamin-Q, who (who also helmed the lauded 2015 prefecture. 03 3694 0306. HER LOVE BOILS BATHWATER was taken from the caricature people of sexual minorities could Shimokitazawa for the has been active in Tokyo’s music drama ‘Tokyo Sunrise’), ‘Mio on 6pm-10.30pm, Sun & hols until (2016) be themselves, Elin and her fellow LGBTQ+ community scene since the ’90s. the Shore’ centres around Mio 10pm, closed Mon). Both are well ‘Yu wo Wakasu hodo no Atsui Ai’ Waifu members agreed that they ‘After hosting several events, ‘For our third event, we had Miyagawa (played by Honoka worth a visit. Released in 2016, this comedy needed to initiate change. So they we’ve seen an increase in events Sapphire Slows give a talk on Matsumoto), whose peaceful life drama is the work of director ‘We should work decided to organise their own and parties with the same her experiences as a female DJ in Nagano is upended when she Ryota Nakano, who garnered event, one that would have a strict policies,’ says Elin. ‘It feels like and producer in a heavily male- reluctantly moves to Tate-ishi critical acclaim for his towards making anti-discrimination policy. Waifu is having an influence, dominated industry,’ says Lauren. to work at a sento run by a friend independent fi lm ‘Chichi wo Tori which was what we wanted ‘We did that because there aren’t of her father’s, Kyosuke Misawa ni’ (‘Capturing Dad’). The fi lm more places Zero-tolerance door policy from the beginning. Now there many opportunities to learn and (Ken Mitsuishi). She is soon Inari-yu sento follows strict but caring single ‘We put up our policy at the are more opportunities for cis understand that side of the music caught up in the modernisation mother Futaba Sachino (Rie that recognise entrance to ensure that everyone women and trans women to business, especially for women. projects in the area and fi ghting THERMAE ROMAE (2012) Miyazawa), who has an epiphany gender-fluid, who comes respects that it needs interact in Ni-chome, and that’s There are only a few female DJs to save the bathhouse which is This science-fi ction comedy, after being diagnosed with to be a safe space,’ says Lisa. ‘We amazing.’ out there, so we want to provide earmarked to be demolished to MELANCHOLIC (2019) directed by Hideki Takeuchi, is terminal cancer and decides to non-binary and don’t ever want anyone to be ‘People around me like going a place for women to be able to make room for redevelopment. This suspenseful comedy-drama based on the eponymous manga fulfi l four wishes on her bucket verbally or physically harassed to Roppongi or Nishiazabu for cultivate their interests.’ Spoiler alert: the real-life was shot on a tiny budget and by Mari Yamazaki and was such list. One of them is to reopen the genderqueer at our parties.’ The group also nightlife, but I think we could ‘While we have a zero-tolerance traditional public bath used released with little fanfare in a success that it spawned the family business – a public bath produces ‘security stickers’ as an do with more places like Koenji policy, we don’t want people to as the set has unfortunately August last year, but it quickly sequel ‘Thermae Romae II’ that had suspended operations. individuals, too’ extra measure, worn by the staff or Shimokitazawa that revolve think that the event has a stiff fallen to the same fate as its became a word-of-mouth hit in 2014. The fi ctionalsento was fi lmed as well as attendees who want to around art and music,’ adds atmosphere,’ says Maiko. ‘It’s counterpart in the fi lm and has running to increasingly packed The frankly bonkers plot in two locations: Tsuki-no-Yu in help ensure that the party rules Maiko. ‘Ni-chome is great for a good time, so come and party ceased operation, adding extra cinemas for weeks. follows ancient Roman Tokyo’s Bunkyo Ward, now sadly aren’t being violated. people who identify as gay or with us.’ poignancy to this endearing The fi lm examines the bathhouse designer Lucius closed, and the still-running lesbian, but I think we should depiction of Tate-ishi on relationships among a group (Hiroshi Abe) who discovers his Hana-no-Yu (2541-1 Tomoecho, A space for feminism, work towards making more places à Follow Waifu on Instagram screen, and a rallying call to of sento workers after their local steam bath conceals a time Ashikaga, Tochigi prefecture. not just for women that recognise gender-fluid, (@waifu_party) and Twitter (@wife_ visit this charming old-school lives are dramatically aff ected tunnel that leads to modern- 0284 21 8538. 1.30pm-10pm, ‘I realised what a privilege it non-binary and genderqueer waifu) for event information. area which could itself be following a late-night murder at day Japan. Cue a culture clash closed Sun) in Ashikaga City,

is to just go to a club and enjoy individuals, too. There are lots TEXT BY EMMA STEEN; INTERVIEW BY HISATO HAYASHI AND KOSUKE SHIMIZU; PHOTO BY YUKI NAKAMURA lost to redevelopment in the the bathhouse where they work. comedy as our ancient friend Tochigi prefecture.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 66 67 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Travel & Hotels

A small sightseeing village between Lake Kawaguchiko and Lake Kawaguchiko Lake Yamanakako (two of the You’ll find a jaw-dropping Fuji Five Lakes), Oshino Hakkai is panorama at the home to ponds that receive their Travel & northeastern shore of Lake water straight from the slopes of Kawaguchiko, right next Mt Fuji. The mountain’s snowmelt to the Kawaguchiko Music has been filtering through porous Forest. It’s especially popular lava layers, turning it into clear in spring, when shutterbugs spring water. Hotels flock to the site looking to At selected thatched houses capture the sacred mountain you can shop for souvenirs, local within a frame of pink sakura, produce and crafts. Some of courtesy of the dozens of them are restaurants, serving cherry trees by the shore. soba, udon and other Japanese On windless days when the LEONG/DREAMSTIME KIT CHON dishes. There’s also a museum lake is exceptionally still, Oshino Hakkai on site that displays old farming you could even take an Insta- Oshino Hakkai fulfills all your tools, household goods and even worthy shot of the majestic requirements for that picture- samurai armour and weaponry. mountain with its reflection perfect shot of Mt Fuji – imagine à Shibokusa, Oshino-mura, Minamitsuru-gun, mirrored on the lake’s a rural Japanese village featuring Yamanashi prefecture. 0555 84 4221. oshino.jp. surface. small thatched huts and little FREE, except for the area around Sokonuke-ike that If you’re not afraid of ponds of crystal clear water, with belongs to the museum: 9am-5pm, ¥300, primary heights, board the Mount Fuji the star mountain in the distance. school students ¥150, younger children ¥100. Panoramic Ropeway at the eastern shore, which goes up to an observation deck near the summit of Mt Tenjo. From there you can look out to Lake Kawaguchiko on one side and Mt Fuji on the other. à Kawaguchi, Fujikawaguchiko-machi, Fuji Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi prefecture. rocks PLATONGKOH/DREAMSTIME

To see Mt Fuji in all its glory, take a day trip out of Tokyo to these scenic spots in Yamanashi and Kanagawa. By Tabea Greuner Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nemba THE HIGHEST PEAK in Japan at Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nemba is Make sure to take a souvenir 3,776m, Mt Fuji is stunning with a former farming village turned photo on the little bridge that its elegant, perfectly symmetrical tourist attraction, situated not far overlooks the scenic village, with shape. It is the icon of Japan, and from the shores of Lake Saiko, one Mt Fuji in the background – you one that many tourists want to see of the Fuji Five Lakes. Its quaint can even dress up in a kimono or on their trip to Tokyo. Even though countryside setting provides an samurai armour, available for rent you could catch a glimpse of the ideal photo opportunity, with nearby at ¥1,000 per person. Art mountain from the city all year round the towering Mt Fuji acting as a enthusiasts should check out the if you’re lucky, winter is the best backdrop to charming traditional on-site gallery with its regularly time to travel slightly out of Tokyo thatched houses. changing exhibitions by local proper to the areas surrounding Nemba village was destroyed artists. During our visit we met the mountain for the perfect view, by a massive landslide in 1966 famous illustrator and producer when the air is cool and crisp and the Lake Ashi and the twenty ‘heritage’ houses Kosei Maeda of the hit anime brilliant blue sky is mostly cloudless. ASSOCIATION TOURISM FUJIYOSHIDA Hakone is not only known for its many onsen (hot spring) resorts, that you see today are true-to- series ‘Manga Nihon Mukashi These five scenic spots in Yamanashi Chureito Pagoda of Arakurayama Sengen Park it’s also home to the expansive Lake Ashi – the symbol of this original reconstructions that are Banashi’, which aired from 1975 and Kanagawa – easily reachable The famous Chureito Pagoda overlooking Fujiyoshida city and Mt Fuji is almost as iconic a sight mountainous region – which formed about 3,000 years ago. now home to craft shops – think until the early ’90s. from Tokyo as a day trip – are your as the peak itself. Set against a slope, the five-storey structure belongs to the Arakurayama Sengen There are a few ways to take in Mt Fuji here: from the southern pottery, incense-making and à 2710 Saiko Nemba, Fujikawaguchiko-machi, best bet for a spectacular photo of Mt Park and was built in 1962 as a peace memorial to commemorate war victims. shore at Moto-Hakone, where you’ll also get a perfect trifecta of the weaving. The site as a whole is a Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi prefecture. 0555 20 Fuji. Just try to get there early in the Regardless of the season, you can expect great views from this vantage point. You’ll find the aforementioned lake, the mountain range at the back and Hakone museum, documenting the daily 4677. fujisan.ne.jp/iyashi. 9am-5pm (Mar-Nov), morning or late afternoon as mid-day pagoda surrounded by pastel pink cherry blossoms in spring, lush greens in summer and fiery red Shrine’s famous red torii gate, or from the deck of the fun but kitschy lives of the farmers back in the day, 9.30am-4.30pm (Dec-Feb); last entry 30min before clouds can sometimes drift in and leaves in autumn. In winter, the roofs turn white with snow – so get your cameras ready. sightseeing ‘pirate ship’ plying the lake several times a day. as well as the tragic disaster that closing time. ¥350, junior-high and primary school block the view. à 2-4-1 Asama, Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi prefecture (Shimoyoshida Station). 0555 21 100. fujiyoshida.net. à 45-3 Moto-Hakone, Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa prefecture. occurred over half a century ago. students ¥150, FREE for younger children.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 68 69 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Travel & Hotels Travel & Hotels

as it offers gentle slopes as Hakuba Tsugaike (hakubawow. well as mogul routes and the jp) adventure park which is open aforementioned steep run. Seki year-round. Some of the obstacle Onsen, on the other hand, is courses open in the summer popular among intermediate will also be operating during the skiers looking to plow through winter along with snow tubing tons of powder. and snow-biking courses. Getting there Getting there From Tokyo, Myoko Kogen is Take a shinkansen from Tokyo reachable in three to four hours. Station to Nagano Station, then The most popular route is to catch head to the east exit of Nagano the direct shinkansen from either Station to take a bus to Hakuba. Tokyo or Ueno Station to Nagano The entire journey will take Station. From there, the local Kita approximately three-and-a- Shinano line will take you to Myoko- half hours. HAKUBA.COM Kogen Station in about 45 minutes. HAKUBA uncongested, well-lit trails in case Don’t miss Don’t miss Roughly 250km from Tokyo is the you didn’t catch enough powder Hakuba is well liked by young Myoko Kogen is a bather’s paradise valley of Hakuba. This famed ski in the daylight. For beginners, party lovers who appreciate a as it’s rare to find so many different destination in Nagano was the there is an array of international rowdy après sesh and many of types of onsen in one location. The host of the 1998 Winter Olympics snow-sports schools in the area the 50-plus cafés offer nightlife hot springs here – Akakura, Shin- and has grown to be an ever- where both children and adults entertainment even after the Akakura, Ikenotaira, Suginohara, popular destination for keen skiers can take lessons in skiing and slopes have closed. Myoko, Mushi and Seki onsen and snowboarders looking for the snowboarding. From March 1-4, the village – are prized for their water’s best resorts to tear up the slopes As one of the most international will host the inaugural Snow unique colours and properties. every winter. ski destinations in Japan, Machine (snow-machine.com), a The water ranges from clear (rich The valley has ten different Hakuba has a wide range of winter music festival focusing on in minerals) to cloudy white (rich ski resorts and each winter cafés, restaurants and bars to electronic music. Expect local and in sulphates to help alleviate high sees approximately 11 metres refuel in after a packed day on the international artists including Art blood pressure) and even black of snowfall. Some resorts even mountains. If you fancy changing Vs Science. Festival passes start (known to soothe dry skin). have slopes that are open after up your routine and taking on from AUD300 (about ¥21,712). Let it snow àmyokotourism.com dark, where you can ride freely on activities off the slopes, head to àhakubavalley.com/en Looking to plough through powdery slopes this Advertisement feature winter? These are some of the best ski resorts near Tokyo. By the Time Out Tokyo team inter nderand NOZAWA ONSEN surely enjoy the steep and bumpy A popular winter-sports snow run. Not into skiing? Not Enjoy a spectacular ski season at Hoshino Resorts Tomamu and Bandai destination, Nozawa Onsen is to worry: you can always go for a located in the mountainous snowcat ride or a snowshoe walk caf and even a church. There is region of Nagano prefecture. through the drift-covered forest. also the Ice Crystal Park, where The sprawling ski area stretches the tables and chairs are made over 297 hectares and is blessed Getting there from ice. with soft, powdery snow from late Hop on the Hokuriku Shinkansen Come experience the Ice November to early May. from Tokyo Station and get off Hotel (Jan 18-Feb 2) and relax There are 36 different slopes at Iiyama Station in Nagano in an onsen surrounded by catering to both beginners and prefecture – the journey takes ice. Sit down for an ice-themed sin esrts two-night stay (one of the paying

advanced skiers. The gentle about one hour and 40 minutes. MICHELLEMEALING/DREAMSTIME afternoon tea (Feb 1-2) and Ats andai nights has to be on Monday slopes of Uenotaira, easily Then board the Nozawa Onsen sample the unique brled Prefer an active holiday? Alts through Thursday). accessible via the Hikage and Liner, a bus that brings you directly MYOKO KOGEN averages around 14 metres a chocolate kakigori. Bandai caters especially to Kids, too, will have a ball. Nagasaka gondolas, are perfect to the village in 25 minutes. A free The mountainous Myoko Kogen season, is the result of obliging sin esrts There’s more excitement lovers of winter sports. Located Children aged 12 and under for first-time skiers. At the base shuttle bus runs between Nozawa in Niigata is made up of nine geography. Moisture is swept mamu outside the Ice illage: relish on the slopes of the Bandai staying at the resort get to enjoy of Hikage, which is connected to Onsen and the ski resort (15-20 main ski resorts including Myoko in from the nearby Sea of Japan Located at the scenic in 20 different bubblies at the mountain range in Fukushima the ski lifts, gear rental and the Nozawa Onsen village by the minutes one way). Akakura, Myoko Suginohara, and is cooled down rapidly by the Shimukappu village in Hokkaido, Superb iew Champagne Bar (Mar prefecture, the ski resort attracts warm-water pool for free. And Yu Road walkalator, you’ll find a Myoko Ski Park, Madarao Kogen surrounding mountain peaks. Hoshino Resorts Tomamu is 1-Apr 5), and dig into Hokkaido skiers and snowboarders from that’s not all: the resort also ski and snowboard school, plus Don't miss and Tangram Ski Circus. They As such, this resort, one of the wowing winter vacationers with specialities at the Overflowing across the greater Kanto region provides a day care, snow-rafting playgrounds and fun activities At the end of your frosty are all connected, with Akakura oldest in Japan, is home to some the Ice illage, a popular annual Seafood Festival, where you can and beyond. experiences as well as beginner ideal for families with kids. adventure, go warm up in one village acting as the central point, of the longest (Myoko Suginohara) occurrence here since 18. feast on fresh sushi topped with If you’re hitting the slopes, ski lessons just for kids. Yamabiko, on the other hand, of the 13 Soto Yu facilities in where you’ll find most of the and steepest (Akakura Onsen Ski Undoubtedly one of the most copious amounts of seafood. take advantage of Bandaisan is home to the Skyline Course, a the village. These communal accommodation. The attraction Resort) ski runs around. unique winter attractions in Onsen Hotel’s ‘Skier First  andaisan nsen te rmises snfied 4,500m-long run for intermediate baths are famous for their here goes beyond its ample The wide variety of resorts Japan, the Ice illage is set to e iae is n en unti Package’ to enjoy a late 1pm skiers, stretching from the summit mineral-rich alkaline water and snowfall and plentiful options for offers something for everyone, resemble a fairytale world, with checkout, free rides on the first eitement fr te e ar re detais at fami re detais towards the base along mountain wooden structures that resemble skiing and snowboarding – Myoko from newbies to advanced skiers 11 igloo-like buildings hosting sntmamuinter slide up the slopes, plus one ridges. Experienced thrill seekers architectural designs of the Edo Kogen is also home to seven seeking challenging runs and accommodation, bars, shops, a free night for every consecutive at ats should head for the Schneider period (1603-1868). natural onsen (hot springs). adrenaline. Akakura Onsen

course instead, where they will ànozawakanko.jp/en The abundant snowfall, which Ski Resort is a great all-rounder NOZAWA ONSEN: KAMIZOH/PIXTA

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 70 71 January-March, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Tokyo READY P76-79 GETTING AROUND 22/10/2013 12:46 Page 77

Getting Around GoingGoing underground? underground? Getting Welcome to the world’s most efficient transport system Around Welcome to the world’s most efficient transport system

Ticket to ride Getting Around Flash your passport and get access to a host of discounted tickets for trains, buses, metro and even the shinkansen

EVERYONE KEEPS TELLING you GREATER are only a few vendors within the ANA Visit Japan Fare how expensive Japan is, right? country, who sell passes at a mark- The ANA fare allows you to fly Don’t believe the hype. There are TOKYO (KANTO up. Check japanrailpass.net for a to any destination across Japan bargains to be had, particularly list of authorised sales offices. for only ¥13,000 per flight (plus when travelling in this fine REGION) à¥29,650-83,390 10 percent tax), including code country. So if you’re looking to share ones. You must live outside cross town or fly the length of JR Tokyo Wide Pass Japan Bus Pass of Japan, and your international Japan, we’ve got you covered. If you’re looking for a whistle- Offered by Willer Express, which return ticket to or via Japan can stop tour of Kanto, this beauty operates highway buses across be with any airline. This fare is will give you three days of Japan, this pass gets you three, five limited to a minimum of two to a TOKYO unlimited travel on JR East or seven non-consecutive days of maximum of five segments, and shinkansen (bullet trains) and travel (which can include weekends must be issued outside of Japan. Tokyo subway ticket limited express trains in the with the right pass) – within a two- Blackout dates apply. Only available to tourists, this region. There are drawbacks month period. There are some pass comes in 24-hour, 48-hour though – tickets can only be used blackout dates (namely, Golden ANA Super Value and 72-hour options. It’s valid on on consecutive days and cannot Week and the Obon holidays in By reserving and purchasing in all Tokyo Metro and Toei subway be used for Tokaido Shinkansen August), but other than that you advance through the airline’s lines – so no JR or private train or JR buses. can pretty much ride whenever dedicated website, you will lines for you (even then it should à¥10,180 (children ¥5,090) you want within two months of enjoy substantial fare discounts cover all the major tourist sites your first journey. The deal is on ANA domestic flights to any and attractions in Tokyo). Tickets only available via willerexpress. major city in Japan. Fares start can only be bought at Narita and JAPAN-WIDE com, and to those with a foreign from ¥7,700 (Tokyo to Osaka, as Haneda airports, some larger passport, including residents. of Nov 30 2019). The fare may hotels and Bic Camera locations Japan Rail Pass àFrom ¥10,200 differ depending on the date of within Tokyo, and you’ll have to The top trump of rail passes, departure, date of purchase and flash your passport to get one. this will get you on all JR trains – JAL Japan Explorer Pass destination. à¥800 for 24 hours, ¥1,200 for 48 hours, ¥1,500 including shinkansen – as well as Flying can sometimes be cheaper for 72 hours (children ¥400, ¥600, ¥750) local JR buses and a ferry service than taking the shinkansen (to the lovely Miyajima Island in – especially if you’re holding Toei Bus one-day pass Hiroshima) during the validity a foreign passport plus an à Note: Prices and fare conditions Valid for one-day unlimited use period (7, 14 or 21 consecutive international air ticket to and are correct at time of print, and are of Toei buses around Tokyo. days after first use). Only visitors from Japan. With this special subject to change. Please check Don’t worry, the buses display to Japan are eligible; it is highly deal, you get to enjoy a domestic the official websites to confirm upcoming stops in English. recommended that you buy your flight from just ¥5,500 per flight before purchasing.

à¥500 (children ¥250) pass outside of Japan as there (inclusive of tax). KUREMO/DREAMSTIME

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2020 72 73 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visitJanuary-March,www.timeout.com/tokyo 2020 Time Out Tokyo77 … ¥100 can get You know you a lot more than you think you’re By Youka Nagase

in Tokyo AT JAPAN'S ¥100 SHOPS you can get almost anything from household to beauty products and even souvenirs for less than a euro, pound or US dollar. But they are not the only places when… in Tokyo where you can pick up great bargains with a single silver coin. Here are some amazing ¥100 food and drink deals we love.

Lanterne Ikejiri-Ohashi This modern izakaya in Ikejiri-Ohashi has one of the best happy-hour deals in the city: a whisky highball plus two pieces of karaage (fried chicken) for ¥100 from 5pm to 7pm every day. The karaage is cooked to perfection; it’s crispy on the outside while the meat retains all its juices. Even if you miss happy hour, at full price the drinks here are relatively cheap, with a ¥400 ‘extra bubbly’ highball that can be upgraded to a mega jug for an additional ¥300. à106, 3-1-11 Higashiyama, Meguro (Ikejiri-Ohashi Station). 03 6303 0140. instagram.com/lanterne_ikejiriohashi. 5pm-1am, closed Sun.

Toriba Coffee Sweets Paradise cake shop Just because Ginza is Tokyo’s biggest Sweets Paradise is well known for its all-you- shopping district and brimming with can-eat dessert buff et (¥1,100-1,490), but don’t designer labels and luxury boutiques, overlook the restaurant’s adjacent cake shop at don’t assume everything costs a its Akihabara and Shinjuku branches. Most of fortune here. Independent roastery the cakes on off er only cost ¥100, including the Toriba Coff ee, located just off the main souffl é cheesecake, choux cream, éclair, rich thoroughfare, serves a cup of joe for chocolate cake and the classic shortcake that’s a mere ¥100. Two options from the topped with a strawberry. Not even the local daily roasts are available for takeaway convenience store can beat this. With prices – there are a few bar tables too, should this low, you probably won’t mind paying a little you want to drink in. Although Toriba bit more for the seasonal premium selection, calls this a ‘tasting’, the generous where the most expensive piece will only set you amount is equivalent to a small coff ee back ¥270. that would easily cost you four or fi ve àAkihabara and Shinjuku. sweets-paradise.jp/cakeshop. Opening times times the price elsewhere. vary depending on the store. à7-8-13 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 6274 6611. tinyurl.com/TOTtoriba. 11am-9pm, Sat, Sun & hols 11am-7pm. Jujo Ginza Shopping Street Eat, drink and shop like a local at Jujo Ginza, which is less than 20 minutes by train from Shibuya Station. There are lots of deals to be found at this retro shopping arcade: its Boulanger Vague 180-strong directory is made Japan’s appetite for bread is growing, with numerous up of many cheap eateries speciality and internationally renowned bakeries opening as well as speciality and shops across the city, selling pastries that can cost as much discount stores. Walk down as a bowl of noodles. Boulanger Vague is a much needed the street and snack along the exception, as the bakery off ers 100 kinds of fresh-from-the- way – get a croquet for ¥30, a oven baked goods for only ¥100 each. You can fi nd anything yakitori skewer for ¥60, inari from sweet to savoury, including melonpan, muffi ns, curry sushi for ¥80 or a meatball for buns, mentai (marinated pollock roe) camembert mini a measly ¥20. baguettes and Danish pastries. Handily, there’s an attached à2-24 Kami-Jujo, Kita (Jujo Station). jujo- café, so you can sit and enjoy your bread while it’s warm. ginza.com. Opening times vary depending àSuper Viva Home Toyosu 2F, 3-4-8 Toyosu, Koto (Toyosu Station). 03 6221 3321.

on the store. bakery-aqua.com. 10am-9pm, Sat & Sun 9am-9pm. IIDA KENTO

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