Scruffy Masculinities A visual analysis of gay bear representations in Walter Van Beirendonck’s runways Iulian Suman Department of Media Studies Stockholm University Master’s Thesis/ Fashion Studies (30 credits) Spring 2021 Supervisor: Chiara Faggella Abstract Despite the vast research regarding non-conformative bodies, there is little material on the gay bear representation in fashion modelling. This thesis investigates the bear embodiment in the runway shows of Walter Van Beirendonck, respectively W&LT Autumn/Winter 1995–1996 Paradise Pleasure Productions, W&LT Autumn/Winter 1996-1997 Wonderland, Walter Van Beirendonck Spring/Summer 2010 Wonder, and Walter Van Beirendonck Spring/Summer 2011 Read My Skin. Critical visual analysis follows the gay bear symbolism in the video recordings of the runways, revealing how it challenges the fashion industry’s body standards and, in a broader frame, the dictates of hegemonic masculinity. The concepts of gender performativity and biopower provide the theoretical frame of the study, while Madison Moore’s theory of ‘fabulousness’ and José Esteban Muñoz’s understanding of ‘utopia’ lead to the articulation of performances both masculine and queer. The findings lead to the discovery of non-dual and body-inclusive gay bear embodiments that challenge the relationship between body and dress and can extend beyond the limits of the runway. Keywords: Walter Van Beirendonck, W&LT, Fashion show, Hegemonic masculinity, Gay bears, Non-conformative bodies, Gay masculinity, Queer masculinity. Acknowledgments I would like to express my deep gratitude to my supervisor Chiara Fagella for her guidance and continuous support throughout my research process. Furthermore, I would like to thank my teacher Louise Wallenberg that suggested the topic of my thesis and introduced me to queer and gender studies. Lastly, I would like to thank Stefan for his limitless moral support during the process of writing this thesis. Table of Contents Introduction ........................................................................................................................................... 1 Research Aim and Questions .............................................................................................................................. 6 Theories .............................................................................................................................................................. 7 Methodology ..................................................................................................................................................... 12 Empirical Sources ............................................................................................................................................. 13 Visual Analysis ................................................................................................................................................. 15 Criteria for Classification of Bears in the Selected Collections ........................................................................ 17 Literature Review ............................................................................................................................................. 18 Walter Van Beirendonck, as Seen by Fashion Scholars ............................................................................... 18 Bear Studies.................................................................................................................................................. 19 Fashionable Male Bodies and Runway Shows in the 1990s and 2010s ....................................................... 21 Delimitations .................................................................................................................................................... 24 Thesis Outline ................................................................................................................................................... 25 Chapter 1. Rubber Men and Fairy Tale Beasts ................................................................................ 26 Paradise Pleasure Productions .......................................................................................................................... 27 Wonderland ...................................................................................................................................................... 37 Chapter 2. Is Queer Bears an Oxymoron? ........................................................................................ 52 Wonder ............................................................................................................................................................. 52 Read My Skin ................................................................................................................................................... 61 The Venturesome Journey of Bear Masculinities in Walter Van Beirendonck’s Runways: A Final Discussion ................................................................................................................................... 66 Conclusion ............................................................................................................................................ 69 Sources .................................................................................................................................................. 72 Bibliography ........................................................................................................................................ 73 Image Sources ...................................................................................................................................... 78 List of Figures Cover photo. The finale of S/S Wonder Paris, 2009 Figure 1. Cover of Bear Magazine No38, 1996 ...................................................................................... 3 Figure 2. Cover of Bear Magazine No21, 1992 ...................................................................................... 3 Figure 3. Walterman figure; Retrospective Exhibition Dream the Dream Away, Mode Museum Antwerp, 2011 ......................................................................................................................................... 5 Figure 4. Ikonik Karl artwork: Karl Lagerfeld web shop image, 2021 ................................................... 5 Figure 5. The Finale of A/W collection Paradise Pleasure Productions, Paris, 1995 ............................ 27 Figure 6. Model wearing red latex suit with flowers A/W Paradise Pleasure Productions, Paris, 1995. ............................................................................................................................................................... 29 Figure 7. Model wearing black latex suit, A/W Paradise Pleasure Productions, Paris, 1995. .............. 29 Figure 8. Matching garment 1, A/W Paradise Pleasure Productions, Paris, 1995 ................................ 32 Figure 9. Matching garment 2, A/W Paradise Pleasure Productions, Paris, 1995 ................................ 32 Figure 10. Tulle embroidered shirt and feather headpiece, A/W Paradise Pleasure Productions, Paris, 1995 ....................................................................................................................................................... 35 Figure 11. Tulle shirt embroidered with flowers and feather headpiece, A/W Paradise Pleasure Productions, Paris, 1995 ........................................................................................................................ 35 Figure 12. Model wearing the top “Finally Chesthair!” front, F/W Wonderland, Paris 1996 .............. 39 Figure 13. Model wearing the top “Finally Chesthair!” back, F/W Wonderland, Paris 1996 ............... 39 Figure 14. Model wearing faux fur trousers and t-shirt with the text ”Bears”, F/W Wonderland, Paris 1996 ....................................................................................................................................................... 40 Figure 15. Bear model wearing a top printed with a scenery containing the backside of a bear, a mushroom, and the word ”Cute!”, F/W Wonderland, Paris 1996 ......................................................... 40 Figure 16. Model wearing a crop-top nude illusion garment, F/W Wonderland, Paris 1996 ............... 41 Figure 17. Models wearing hoodies with rounded ears and gloves, F/W Wonderland, Paris 1996 ...... 42 Figure 18. The Finale of F/W Wonderland, Paris 1996 ........................................................................ 43 Figure 19. Kinky King model wearing a top printed with crowned swans and heart, F/W Wonderland, Paris 1996 .............................................................................................................................................. 44 Figure 20. Kinky King model wearing a top printed with the image of a hairy chest and nipple clamps, F/W Wonderland, Paris 1996 ................................................................................................................ 44 Figure 21. Models wearing ”bear superheroes” tops with rounded ears hoodies, F/W Wonderland, Paris 1996 .............................................................................................................................................. 46 Figure 22. Model wearing an outfit in red and green, F/W Wonderland, Paris 1996 ........................... 49 Figure 23. Model resembling the Santa