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No 814 February 2018

Wellington Section Monthly Bulletin

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Enjoying sunrise beneath Kaitiaki Peak, on the east side of Ball Pass - more here February 2018 Wellington Section member achieves a world first Nigel Roberts has become the first southern hemispherer to climb all the highest points in each of Summer Rock is underway with 12 budding new climbers. Scott and his crew of instructors are the USA’s 50 states. Read more. once again providing a high quality and fun course. I managed to call in on them briefly while they were bouldering Baring Head recently. Clearly no lack of enthusiasm or tenacity. I’m looking forward to seeing them on future trips once they have finished the course. March Section night Wed 28th March, we’re back at the Third Eye, to hear from John Phillips about his climb of Preparation is also well underway for our winter courses. We are still finalising a few details Acongagua - the highest peak in South America. including cost and some logistics. The courses always fill quickly so, if you’re keen, register your interest with us by emailing the section [email protected]. Section nights beyond March Wed 25th April, Rohan Light will talk to us about risk management and decision making in the field. Course timings are as follows: Wed 30th May, Marcus Thomas will present his spectacular Cave book. Friday 27th & Saturday 28th July (Beginner) Friday 3rd & Saturday 4th Aug (Beginner) Wed 27th June - TBA, any ideas please let me know. Friday 17th & Saturday 18th Aug (Beginner/Intermediate) Wed 25th July, Ross Cullen will take us through three years of Norwegian scrambling and climbing. Friday 24th & Saturday 25th Aug. (Intermediate/Advanced) Wed 29th August, it’s the annual Wellington Section Photo competition judging evening. Banff. We are currently negotiating with Vic Uni to hold Banff in one of their large lecture theaters. Wed 26th September, Penny Webster will take us through her quest to climb all of New Zealand’s More details on this as arrangements progress. 3,000m peaks. Wed 28th November, Nina Sawicki will take us on a journey to Kanchenjunga base camp in Nepal. On the book front I’ve just read 10% Human by Alanna Collen. If you want to improve your climbing you might want to think about feeding your climbing microbes the kind of foods that make them flourish and starving the couch potato beer drinking microbes that make that summit out of reach. Where is this situated? “Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm” Winston Churchill.

If you have any comments on what you like or don’t like send an email to [email protected] or tweet us @NZACWellington.

Simon

From the Editor Perhaps in honour of all the good climbing weather we’ve enjoyed this summer I’m please to feature three trip reports in this issue of Vertigo. But I’m sure there are many more sitting in your heads and hearts just waiting to be written up. Let’s share more of our adventures. Just type up a report of between half a page to three pages as a Word document, email it to me at [email protected] with one to six jpeg images and I’ll format it for Vertigo. Don’t forget the page quicklinks at the base of each page - they let you go straight to the page you want rather than having to scroll back and forth all the time. Simon Williamson Chair: NZAC Wellington Peter > Chair’s Report > Section News > Notices > Coming Trips, Courses, Events > Trip Reports > Section Contacts > Our Club On A Page Gear Hire NZAC Unwin Easter Meet - Mt Cook 30th March - 2nd April 2018 The meet is a great opportunity for climbers to get together to climb mountains, rocks, socialise, Don’t forget the Section has gear for hire: avalanche transceivers, ice axes, shovels, stakes, explore and enjoy one of New Zealand’s Premier Mountain Landscape Aoraki/ Mt Cook National hammers, helmets, crampons, probes, PLBs, ice hammers (entry level). Park. Cost: $80 NZAC member and $110 Non-members for 3 night’s accommodation, activities and a barbeque dinner. More information here. To hire gear please fill in the form here. Aspiring Hut closes 9 April for earthquake strengthening

Each item costs $5 per week with the exception of PLBs – PLBs are free but require a deposit of UIAA Damavand Summer Camp 2018 $50 refundable on return. 4th Iran Youth Summer Camp 26 July to 8 August. Damavand is the highest volcano in Asia. In 2018 Alam Kouh has been added for high wall climbing lovers. For more information and to A little bit of advance notice would be appreciated as gear often needs to be retrieved from the gear register interest here. store in Lower Hutt. Gear collections and drop-offs are usually available in the city during the working day or at section night. New Zealand Sport and Recreation Awards 2018 Entries close 7 March for the 11th New Zealand Sport and Recreation Awards, with a new Future Leaders Scholarship. More information and to submit your entry here. Accommodation on Mt Ruapehu International Snow Science Workshop preliminary programme here

Our snowcraft courses for the past few years have been run out of the Manawatu Tramping and CCUSA - Camp Counsellors USA Skiing Club lodge on Whakapapa. We’re always made to feel welcome and the lodge is well CCUSA is the leader in the American Summer Camp industry and the only Kiwi Company to have situated a short walk from the top of the Bruce Road. Membership to the club is extremely a 100% placement record for 28 years, the most affordable program in New Zealand, offering the reasonable - $35 per year or $50 for a family membership. Members stay at the lodge for $36 a most benefits, including the highest earning potential at camp. Apply here. night including food. If you’re looking for somewhere to base yourself for your winter pursuits or rock-climbing over the summer months go to www.mtsc.org.nz/joining.php to find out more about Information on NZ alpine hut systems requested joining the club. Ang Rita Sherpa is from Khumbu and a graduate from Lincoln University in Parks and Recreation in 1986. He hopes to build a series of mountain shelters on the Three Passes trekking route to reduce danger there. He seeks technical and financial support thepartnersnepal.org.

Mountain Festival in Kyrgyzstan Climbers from all over the world are invited to celebrate the 90th anniversary of the first ascent of Lenin Peak, 7134m. Celebration activities include ascent of Lenin peak, trekking, guided walks, etc. More information and to book here.

UIAA ice climbing season The provisional calendar for the 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing season is now in place. Read more.

ICOpro canyoning course: 6-13 April More information and registration here.

Marion Minifie In her obituary in the Timaru Herald, 29 April 1969 it is stated that ‘Mrs Minifie was a keen tramper and climber and was one of the first women to climb Malte Brun in 1900’.As far as I can find, the first ascent of Malte Brun by a woman was by Freda Du Faur in January 1911, so my grandmother’s must have been later. I would be grateful for any further information. David Minifie - [email protected] Heading to Mt Cupola, Nelson Lakes

> Chair’s Report > Section News > Notices > Coming Trips, Courses, Events > Trip Reports > Section Contacts > Our Club On A Page Mike Neely abseiling into a crevice on Sebastopol Ridge

All our planned South Island trips come with the added bonus that rental vehicle costs for Wellington Section members are covered by the Section.

If you’re uncertain about the skill level required with any of the trips, would like to register your interest or to find out more, email us at [email protected].

Also, please contact us if you’re keen to run a trip yourself – the Committee can help with advertising and logistics.

When What & where 9 - 12 March 2018 Trip to Paynes Ford led by Eric Duggan. The section will pay for transport from Nelson to Takaka and return 20 - 22 April 2018 Rock climbing meet at Tukino Ski Field, staying at TASC lodge. Organised by Eric Duggan Friday 27th & Saturday 28th July Beginner Winter Snowcraft Course Friday 3rd & Saturday 4th Aug Beginner Winter Snowcraft Course Friday 17th & Saturday 18th Aug Beginner/Intermediate Winter Snowcraft Course Friday 24th & Saturday 25th Aug Intermediate/Advanced Winter Snowcraft Course To register for any of these courses contact [email protected]

Section trip, Mount Wakefield > Chair’s Report > Section News > Notices > Coming Trips, Courses, Events > Trip Reports > Section Contacts > Our Club On A Page Lurking in a blue bag, base of cliff bottom left, the Green Geisha appeared.This stunning, sleek, bi-coloured, latest technology rope stunned the general population and slithered in style quickly overtaking the slowly crawling Caterpillar. Other ropes looked on. Zoro looked on nonchalantly and disappeared around the corner to eye up an unrequited love, a tall 25 that could The Caterpillar and Green Geisha flare a man’s temper and make him bleed for more. Zoro returned. The choice was hard. The gorgeous new girl on By Jenny Cossy the block with smooth skin and supple moves, or the reliable old favourite, slightly short in stature, middle age spread appearing with a slight afro. The crowd kept the girls apart, climbing relentlessly up Seagrass Wall and Franklin’s Tower to ring the bell. All ropes having no rest as the eight climbers had fun in the sun. Zoro finally made his choice, his old favourite the Caterpillar for his March 2017 project on Bo Peep Slab.Alas her ageing stretch did not allow him to reach his final goal and was swiftly replaced with the Green By-stander while he waited for the Green Geisha to appear. This young, energetic and enthusiastic rope climbed upward with glee. But, alas, at the final draw she lacked experienced to assist our hero in his quest. With their bodies worn out and our stomachs impatiently rumbling, they began their descent to The Dangerous Kitchen and the Waitapu Springs Spa and Sauna. The youthful Green Geisha snuck away into the night with Stacey and John to send Franklin’s Tower at midnight and ring the night bell. Crease Wall and Stone Symposium Wall on Sunday gave us all some needed shade yet left us with sore fingertips. The Caterpillar was a great top rope enabler, giving so much friction that not all belay devices could handle her furry bountiful body. The Green Geisha, with a sleek smooth form was always in great demand to lead the way. Many made their own great achievements with amazing support from everyone. Marie led the classy Temple of Stone(18) even as fear clung to her most of the way. John on-sighted his first twenty. Marie on-sighted Anxiety Status(18) and Scarlet brilliantly seconded it. Matt returned to abseiling after a 15 year break and Jenny, the sun lizard, searched for sunny rock in between her swift ascents. Paul in the searing sun left his faithful friend behind in the shade and sweated up the Temple of Stone with the Green Geisha. Zoro, reserving his energy for the next day, fixated on his project…. Fine dining at dusk at Hangdog, among the crowds of Matt Pemberton in action Canterbury University students on a three day holiday, the wine and beer flowed. Games of Avalon were played and the accusations became wilder and more heated. Strange characters emerged from their shells as their cunning alter egos took over. The Caterpillar called and the team were in the van by 7.45am on Monday heading to Bo Peep Slab at Pohara. The Caterpillar craving sunlight and heat, slipped off to Franklin’s Tower to enjoy peace and quiet, sniffing the pink reclusive rope lay alone on the floor at the bottom of the cupboard for a month.The The and white flowers on the tower’s ledges. The Green Geisha sunlight that squeezed under the narrow draught gap lit her furry coat with dappled light, hinting was requisitioned for go-pro activities on the stunning 18, at a life beyond the door - open spaces, fresh air and caressing hands stroking her fluffy sheath far left of the project. The girls had left him, and Zoro surrounding her core. returned to the Green Bystander to attempt his ascent of Late Thursday night, or Friday before dawn, he whispered to her, your time has come to shine the 25 project. Without the wise old Caterpillar or the and he grabbed her with strong calloused hands and coiled her into the bottom of his pack. In youthful Green Geisha, his clean triumph lay just beyond her contorted position she flew south and west, rattled over the hill and curled up with him all his tired, worn out fingertips. It was not to be. Hence the night in anticipation of an early morning rendezvous with the Seagrass Wall. next NZAC Meet was plotted, a return to Bo Peep Wall March 2018 with his own beloved rope. Warm and curvaceous rock basked in the sun above her as her partner gently unbound her and laid her out in a well coiled pile. Feeling loved and wanted, a partner of years, the Caterpillar The Caterpillar was reunited with her loved one, who ascended the unpopulated wall, searching for shining bolts to be attached to with carabiner scooped her up into his arms, smiled and gently took her jewellery. She rose to the sun with excitement. home to rest. The Green Geisha silently slithered away. > Chair’s Report > Section News > Notices > Coming Trips, Courses, Events > Trip Reports > Section Contacts > Our Club On A Page Of fifty, my top two North Denali was probably my best-ever climb. Nine of the eleven members of our party reached the summit on the sixteenth day of our attempt. Not even the fact that collapsed snow-bridges over American climbs crevasses in the lower icefall on the Kahiltna glacier later saw us marooned on the mountain for eight days can take the gloss off the pride I feel as a result of my successful ascent of North By Nigel Roberts America’s highest mountain. Of all the fifty US state highpoints, Alaska’s Denali is my firm favourite.

Second favourite – and the peak I’d most like to go back to and climb again – is Gannett Peak, which at 4,207m above sea-level is the highest mountain in Wyoming. It is the fifth highest of the US state highpoints, and is nearly 500 metres higher than Mt Cook. Gannett Peak is in Wyoming’s Wind River Range, and can be approached either from the east or the west. Whichever route one takes to reach the mountain, climbing Gannett Peak usually takes five or six days.

Nigel will give a presentation about his 50 peak journey at a Section night to be confirmed asap

In July 2006, I was part of a five person expedition, and we approached the mountain from the western side of the On the second day of a six-day climb, Carl Lohman heads up the Titcomb Basin on his way towards Gannett Peak range. Both before and after our snow- (which is hidden by Bonney Pass, the lowest point on the right-hand skyline) and-ice climb to reach the summit on the Photograph by Nigel Roberts fourth day of our six-day trip, we passed through some of the most magnificent On a gloriously sunny Sunday last year – on Sunday, 10 September, to be precise – I reached the scenery it’s ever been my privilege to see. summit of Mt Marcy. At 1,629m above sea-level, Marcy is the highest mountain in New York state, Huge U-shaped glacial valleys filled with and it was my second attempt to climb the peak. The first time I tried to climb Marcy was in late lakes and fields of stunning wild flowers October 2016, but a combination of thick snow and poor visibility made me abandon my solo were breath-takingly beautiful. attempt to reach the summit when I was only an estimated 70 or so vertical metres short of my goal. The remaining 48 US state highpoints I was particularly thrilled finally to have climbed Mt Marcy, because – by doing so – I became one were all interesting, many were of only about 300 people who have stood on top of all 50 US state highpoints. (By way of contrast, beautiful, and more than a handful - more than 4,800 people have climbed Mt Everest.) I also became the first-ever resident of the including, in my case, New York’s Mt southern hemisphere to have ascended all fifty of the United States’ state highpoints. Marcy – were challenging. However, Denali / Mt McKinley and Gannett Peak Reaching the top of all fifty was not something I set out to do when I climbed my first US state are clearly my top two. I commend them highpoint. I was on an altogether different trajectory: in July 1997 I climbed Denali / Mt McKinley, to fellow Alpine Club members as highly 6,194m, while I was on a “Three-and-a-Half Summits” quest – namely, an attempt to climb at least worthwhile goals. three of the six highest of the continental Seven Summits plus Australia’s Mt Kosciuszko, which is only 2,228m above sea-level and, as a Kiwi, I can’t therefore think of it as anything other than a Nigel Roberts returns to Camp Four (5,243m) after his successful July 1997 half-summit. ascent of Denali / Mt McKinley (6,194m) Photograph by Aidan Brennan > Chair’s Report > Section News > Notices > Coming Trips, Courses, Events > Trip Reports > Section Contacts > Our Club On A Page Overnighting with a Kaitiaki At the first swing bridge on the tourist trail leading to Hooker Lake we Up we went - initially steep scree, then 300 or so Words and pictures Peter Laurenson declined the bridge, staying on the steep craggy ground on the true left of the vertical metres of steep snow. By now the sun had Since Guy Mannering and A. P. Harper first crossed it in river. Our understanding was that this is where you had to go to access the caught up with us and, as we cramponed up, sweat January 1890, Ball Pass has become one of those better moraine on the east side of Hooker Lake. Our first surprise, after having poured off. The chute narrowed to a choke stone that known spots than most in our Southern Alps. So when my battled up a little-used smear of a trail for an hour or so, was an Asian tourist I imagined could be a challenge in winter conditions, climbing buddies Simon and Caro suggested we do it due to looking down on us from a small ridge above us. “You going Ball Pass?” he especially if descending. asked. “How the hell did he get there?” we thought. Then we spotted a sign the weather forecast being more favourable there than most A little above that, at about 1,600m, a large rocky plain indicating Ball Pass right, Hooker Lake straight ahead. The trail had been other places at the time I thought, “yeah, I’ve wanted to check called the Playing Field came into view, with Mount expanded and we hadn’t caught up with that fact. Ah well, I got some lovely out Ball Pass for years”. Mabel looming over head. Here, again, route finding shots along the old route that I wouldn’t have if we’d known. Many years before I’d crossed Copeland Pass which, at the demanded care. The key is to remember to keep left/ time, seemed reasonably straight forward, so I wasn’t From there we began a quite gradual ascent of the moraine, affording ever north. A zigzag Z trail leads up about 100m to Mabel’s expecting the Ball Pass route to be too challenging, more expansive views across Hooker Lake and up the glacier to Aoraki northwest ridge crest which, once we rounded, gave us especially in summer. But right from the get go this route Mount Cook. The main challenge on this section of the route are several our first view of Ball Pass. And it didn’t disappoint, continued to surprise us. deeply cut side streams which demand some steep ups and downs to get looking very much a mountain pass. around, but after about three hours we reached the grassy flats of east To gain the Pass required a sometimes exposed rocky We set off from the Whitehorse carpark (Hooker Valley) in Hooker Valley camping area, perched above the terminal moraine. Here was traverse around beneath Mount Rosa to a snow field, calm fine weather and soon realised that our choice to go west our second surprise – despite the wide notoriety of Ball Pass, route finding is which we joined at about 1,800m. This went up in a to east was a good one. Doing it this way had us nice and cool no piece of cake. We wandered around scratching our heads for half an hour north easterly direction to the Pass, though the last 30 until mid day in the shadow of the Mount Cook Range directly or so before spotting a solitary cairn, hidden in a sea of rock. The main or so metres were on steep slippery gravel. above. We would also later discover that the steepest sections problem was that, leading up out of the camping area, there are at least two of the route are on the western side – easier to ascend than viable looking chutes. Eventually we realised that it’s the most northern one Below - approaching the east Hooker Valley camping flats (right), descend. we needed to ascend. with the steep snow chute leading to the Playing Field above

> Chair’s Report > Section News > Notices > Coming Trips, Courses, Events > Trip Reports > Section Contacts > Our Club On A Page On the Pass at 2,121m, we knew we were in big mountain Kaitiaki translates as trustee, or guardian, which perhaps makes I sweated my way back up the ridge and met Simon and Caro. country. Back down our ascent route lay a panorama taking in Kaitiaki peak the guardian of Ball Pass. As we set off in the direction We decided to drop straight off the ridge, down steep scrub and the Sealy Range beyond Hooker Lake in the south, then the of Caroline Hut about 10am I was thankful to this Kaitiaki for any role hope we weren’t bluffed. It was a good call. If we’d gone any Main Divide, until Aoraki Mount Cook took over in the north. played in laying on such lovely conditions for us. But on the eastern sooner we would have been bluffed, but at that point we snuck For the first time, on the Pass, Aoraki’s magnificent Caroline side of the range there was no respite from the glaring sun. Stupidly I down on to the flatter boulder and scrub field below. We’d all Face came into view as well and, beyond that to the east, had not sufficiently slip-slop-slapped the day before and had to wear missed the new track, which drops off on the east side of the unfolded the Tasman Glacier, the Minarets, Elie De Beaumont, my fleecy to cover up my sunburned arms. Sweating took on a new ridge at about 1,400m. the Malte Brun Range, to name but a few of the more notable meaning for me as we worked our way onto and along Ball Ridge. About four hours after leaving camp we trudged in to Ball Hut points. O for oooorsome! Here was my next surprise. Simon and Caro had talked this down (1,020m), longing to quench our thirsts. “Looks like the tank’s By the time we reached our campsite, across a snow field as a fairly easy section of the route. Though not as steep as parts of empty” reported Simon. “What the…” Well, it had been an skirting Ball Glacier, about 70 metres below the Pass, it had the western side, much of Ball Ridge is exposed and crumbling. Lots incredibly hot summer. Upon further investigation he dredged been about an eight hour day. As far as memorable campsites of little undulations and sub ridges to lead us astray, especially as it some out after removing the top lid on the tank. “Thank you go, this one was right up there. Two nice flat areas have been was hard to stay focused when the views unfolding around me were Simon!” carved out and protected by low stone walls, in a sheltered so beautiful. Aoraki’s Caroline Face dominated the scene, but the Beyond the hut was another eight or so kms of gradual descent spot commanding unbeatable sunrise/sunset views. Though it views up Tasman Glacier were also compelling. down the old Ball Hut Road. In places the road has given way took us a while to spot them, there were two tiny tarns – more It took two or so hours to drop down to Caroline Hut at 1,800m, to the effects of glacier contraction, requiring short scrambles rock pools actually, right under our noses, nestled in a small where we gratefully restocked our water supplies. From there was through scree and boulder fields. Luckily for us our friend Pip was outcrop beside the campsite. We settled in to enjoy all this, some more scrambling to regain the main ridge. At about 1,500m willing to collect us, wherever we met, along the 4WD track above hoping that the less than appealing weather forecast would not we paused for food. Simon and Caro were suffering from foot strife, Blue Lake carpark. As soon as Simon got a signal he put in a call bear out. It didn’t and my camera got a thrashing. having worn their semi rigid climbing boots. My problem was heat, so and, with still a couple of kms to go to the carpark, her Subaru Our next surprise was the craggy high point looming to the I went ahead while they aired their feet. Forester appeared around a corner. That was nice. Even nicer south, directly above camp. The day dawned calm and clear were the bottles of beer she produced from the boot as we loaded My understanding was that all I had to do was keep on the ridge. It and we felt no particular compunction to break camp. The up our gear. I hadn’t realised until then that Pip is an angel. did seem a bit odd though how poor the condition of the trail was crag looked suitably climbable, to the extent that it would’ve getting. I could still see a trail, but disturbing cracks were beginning been rude not to. So we did, enjoying an easy scramble up to appear in the dry, rocky earth. The further I descended, the more For a route map and more images on to what Mr Google then told us is named Kaitiaki Peak. At these cracks looked like small crevasses, until I reached a sudden www.occasionalclimber.co.nz 2,222m it’s the highest point on the Mount Cook Range to the end point where daylight shone through gaping holes. The rapid south of Ball Pass, affording views on another magnitude of contraction of Ball Glacier had left huge exposed rock slopes behind, fabulousness than back down on the Pass. Life was good. no longer supported by glacial ice. The land was literally falling apart. Below - a panorama from the summit of Kaitiaki Peak. From left, the lower Mount Cook Range with Mount Rosa (2,161m) closest. Then the Hooker Yikes, time to backtrack. Lake, Mount Sefton left of centre, with the Main Divide stretching right to Aoraki Mount Cook. The Caroline Face is top right

> Chair’s Report > Section News > Notices > Coming Trips, Courses, Events > Trip Reports > Section Contacts > Our Club On A Page Left above - Caro ascending the lower section of Kaitiaki Peak above the campsite Centre - regaining Ball Ridge beyond Caroline Hut Right - on the lower section of Ball Ridge, with Tasman Glacier beyond Below - setting off from the campsite beneath Ball Pass.Tasman Lake is right, with the craggy profile of Ball Ridge stretching left to the Malte Brun Range

> Chair’s Report > Section News > Notices > Coming Trips, Courses, Events > Trip Reports > Section Contacts > Our Club On A Page Powered by volunteers

We’re always thankful for volunteers and members stepping forward to help the section run smoothly. A lot goes on to keep our club going, virtually all powered by volunteers. On the back page is our “Club on a page” summary. It gives an at a glance description of all the things we do, how and why. Feel free to print a copy and pass it on to anyone who might be interested in becoming a member or volunteer. And if you’d like to learn more about how you could get involved, please email us at [email protected].

Blair Bryant has had to step down from the Committee due to an unexpected opportunity for him in Singapore. Thanks for your support Blair and all the best in the tropics.

Role Name Contact Chair person Simon Williamson 021 054 7684 Secretary, gear custodian Carolyn Ellis 021 574 287 Treasurer Vacant Trip co-ordinator Eric Duggan 021 350 161 Section nights, Vertigo, Photocomp Peter Laurenson 021 446 725 Social media Marie Kelly Club liaison Keith Munro Library, Projects Alex Waterworth General Committee Matt Pemberton General Committee Guy Dubuis General Committee Joshua Mouat Patron John Nankervis Rock drill overseer Jeremy Tries 027 555 5893

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> Chair’s Report > Section News > Notices > Coming Trips, Courses, Events > Trip Reports > Section Contacts > Our Club On A Page > Chair’s Report > Section News > Notices > Coming Trips, Courses, Events > Trip Reports > Section Contacts > Our Club On A Page