2010 Mountain Country

GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE REGION

Vacation Excursions Mountain Towns National Parks Regional Map

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34YEARS OF INSPIRATION AT 6000 FT. JEWELRY ORIGINALS Gaslight Alley • Downtown Jackson Hole • 125 N.Cache www.danshelley.com • [email protected] • 307.733.2259 ALLDESIGNSCOPYRIGHTED NATURE TOWNS Connts 5 Greater Yellowstone Ecosytem 36 Cody RECREATION 6 Geotourism 39 Alpine Junction 16 Biking 9 Wildlife 40 Teton Village 20 Rafting the Snake River 14 Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center 42 Jackson 21 Boating Information 15 National Bighorn Sheep Center 46 Pinedale 22 Fishing 50 West Yellowstone 26 Hiking MUSEUMS 50 Dubois 28 Climbing 36 Buffalo Bill Historical Center 32 Horseback Riding 38 Buffalo Bill Dam 34 Rodeos 42 Jackson Hole Historical Society 40 Jackson Hole Resort 48 Museum of the Mountain Man 44 Grand Targhee Resort

MAPS & DIRECTORIES 51 Lodging Directory 52 Business Directory 54 Greater Yellowstone Map

Cover: Hiking Solitude Lake, Grand Teton National Park Contents: Biking Shadow Mountain, GTNP Photos by Wade McKoy and Bob Woodall Publishers Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy dba Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI) Editors Mike Calabrese, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Copyright 2010 by Focus Productions, Inc., Photo Editor P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming, 83001. Eric Rohr All rights reserved. Check out our magazines—the Jackson Hole Dining Guide, the Art Director No part of this publication may Jackson Hole Skier, and the Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide Janet Melvin be reproduced in any form without written —online at: Distribution Managers permission from the publishers. facebook.com/focusjh FPI Mountain Country Adventure Guide is a free focusproductions.com Advertising Sales visitor’s guide published annually in May and tetonadventureguide.com Nanci Montgomery, 307-699-1607 distributed all summer at hundreds of locations yellowstoneadventureguide.com Kyli Fox throughout Jackson Hole, Cody, West Yellowstone, Order magazines, pos ters, and photos online. Ike Faust Pinedale, Dubois, and other regional communities, For mail-order copies of the current set of three magazines, Bob Woodall, 307-733-6995 and at information centers throughout the Greater send $12 to FPI Magazines, [email protected] Yellowstone area. [email protected] P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001. Lower Falls, Yellowstone River, Yellowstone National Park The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem Large, rugged, and wild, these lands beckon travelers to appreciate and protect By Bert Raynes Photos: Bob Woodall

Young grizzly bear Pilot and Index peaks, Absaroka Mountains

You’ve arrived in what is known as the Greater Yellowstone National Park, the world’s largest cold-water geyser near Afton, Ecosystem (GYE). It includes two national parks, seven national Wyoming, the impressive mountains throughout (with special atten - forests, numerous sections of Bureau of Land Management lands. tion to the Grand Tetons), the several national wildlife refuges, the There are wilderness areas, roadless areas, state lands too. It’s large scenic rivers, high-altitude Lake Yellowstone, the national forests. (18 million acres) and largely unfenced. Enjoy seeing wildlife, much of it at ease where hunting is not Whether this is your first visit or you’re revisiting Grand Teton allowed. Enjoy fishing and boating on placid lakes or on fast-flow - and Yellowstone national parks or the surrounding national forests ing rivers. Enjoy walking, hiking, climbing, and bird watching. or any gateway communities bordering the GYE, you will take Smell the flowers. Taste the air. Stomp the snow or play in it. home memories of the glorious natural wonders preserved for you These are your year-round public lands.  in your public lands. Bird watcher, naturalist, and author, Bert Raynes has lived in Enjoy the world’s largest array of thermal features in Yellowstone Jackson Hole for almost 40 years. 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 5 GeeoNattioonal Gueorgraipshicm Society weighs in l l a d o o W b o B : s o t o h P

A Yellowstone tour bus, circa 1930, departs Old Faithful Inn. Blue Star Spring and Beehive Geyser (above); Opalescent Pool (top left)

In 1997 National Geographic senior editor Jonathan B. Tourtellot stone Ecosystem in a big way with the new Greater Yellowstone Ge - was asked for a term and concept more encompassing than “eco - otourism Center (GYGC) in downtown Driggs, Idaho. tourism” or “sustainable tourism.” So he and his wife, Sally Bensusen, “There is nothing else quite like it in the world,” says Teton Val - put their heads together and coined the term “geotourism.” ley Chamber of Commerce booster Julie Brian. The National Geographic Society (NGS) defines geotourism as Which is just what you’d expect from the National Geographic “tourism that sustains or enhances the geographical character of a Society. The site is not only a destination center for tourism, but an place—its environment, culture, aesthetics, heritage, and the well- educational facility as well, housing exhibits on the region’s geo - being of its residents.” logical origins, Native Americans, explorers, traders, mountain men, This concept with a conscience has come to the Greater Yellow - art, and culture.

A roadside view in the Beartooth Mountains, looking down on Twin Lakes

6 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 l l a d o o W b o B : s o t o h P

Near its headwaters, the Yellowstone River flows through the Thorofare, the most remote place in the Lower 48.

The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem is one of the largest, intact temperate ecosystems in the world, still home to virtually all of the wildlife species en countered by Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery. y o K c M e d a W

Fringed gentian Cascade Canyon and the Middle Teton with its black dike

“The National Geographic Society is here for a reason,” says Region are highlighted: Bryan. “They saw the history, the beauty, the recreation, the wildlife— • One of the largest, intact temperate ecosystems in the world, still all that is worthy of preservation.” home to virtually all of the wildlife species encountered by Lewis and The GYGC also serves as anchor point of a newly designated sce - Clark’s Corps of Discovery nic loop highway, the Yellowstone-Grand Teton Loop Road. The route • Headwaters of four major river systems—the Missouri, the Yel - circumnavigates Grand Teton National Park and traverses some of lowstone, the Snake, and the Green—spawning renowned trout fish - Yellowstone Park’s top attractions. The Greater Yellowstone Region eries and clear waters Map Guide —free and loaded with local insight—highlights recre - • A core of public wild lands surrounding Yellowstone, the world’s ational and cultural opportunities, history, and other points of interest first national park, and the dramatic landscapes of the Tetons as it traces the 263-mile loop from Teton Valley, Idaho, north to West • A rich cultural tapestry rooted in Native American tribal heritage, Yellowstone, Montana, east into Yellowstone Park and Old Faithful, explorers, ranchers, farmers and miners, recreation, railroads, the Wild south to Grand Teton Park and Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and then west West and the New West over Teton Pass, before finally culminating in Teton Valley. Check out the new geotourism center in Driggs, Idaho, and ask for The NGS community of geotourist places includes dozens of des - the free Greater Yellowstone Region Map Guide. You can also view ignations worldwide. The unique treasures of the Greater Yellowstone the interactive map online at www.yellowstonegeotourism.org  — Mountain Country Adventure Guide www. yellowstoneadventureguide. com 8 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 ObBull bisonser ving

Stories from Valley So Sweet WILDLIFE by Bert Raynes Great gray owl Photos by Henry H. Holdsworth, Wild By Nature Gallery

Bert Raynes is a local, won him and the valley it - some say national, treas - self an army of loyalists. ure. Like Mardy Murie The following are ex - and the Craighead broth - cerpts from his book Valley ers, Bert has devoted him - So Sweet , available from self tirelessly to Raven any local bookstore. Buy celebrating the flora and the book. Bert and his val - fauna of the valley known as Jackson ley will appreciate it. — The Editors Hole. Its quiet majesty, its unspoiled beauty, and its perfectly balanced Welcome Back Summer ecosystem remained unthreatened until Today is the first day of summer. I take the advent of “civilization.” Bert rec - my clue from the western wood-pewee. ognized this threat many years ago. When that flycatcher returns and begins to Since then he has, through his books, call, it’s summer for me, no matter what the sun or calendar says. his weekly column in the Jackson Hole On my stroll this morning, I was in late News and Guide , and countless discus - spring, accompanied by groups of western sions with countless residents and visi - tanagers, mourning doves, yellow-headed tors, made his case for the valley’s blackbirds, a pair of redhead ducks and yel - protection. His gentle but unmincing low warblers. I’d gone perhaps two-thirds admonitions and distinct voice have of a mile when—from a stand of narrow- American kestrel www. yellowstoneadventureguide com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 9 In the Teton Wilderness lies a creek whose waters themselves divide, a portion flowing to the Atlantic, the remainder to the Pacific— appropriately called Two Ocean Creek.

Baby bison with mother

very early in September, I’ll be outdoors in wood-pewee habitat and be vaguely ill at ease. It will occur to me that the west - ern wood-pewee no longer calls. Then my summer will be over. Oh, there will be hot days yet in the year. The sun still powerful, a few birds still nesting, some even starting families. But summer is over. Today I simply call my call up into the trees: “Welcome back. Thanks for summer.” Western tanager Wolf leaf cottonwoods—came the unmusical, Across the Great Divide insect-like peeurrr note of this, my per - I live west of the Continental Divide. sonal signal bird. The Continental Divide is a hydro - I had walked into summer. graphic distinction: rivers flowing east of Oh, I know, I know. But summer is an the divide eventually end up in the At - attitude as much as a season. I’ve been in lantic Ocean. Those flowing west of it fierce valley snowstorms on July 4, the end up in the Pacific. Distinction or not, beginning of two weeks of bitter cold, wet unless you’re another Captain William weather that killed nesting birds and Clark—the Clark of Lewis and Clark young animals. who possessed an uncanny ability to rec - Summer? Not to me. It wasn’t even ognize the lay of the land—you might spring. walk over the hump of the continent in It was late winter. these parts and entirely miss both its pres - Western wood-pewees seem to me—I ence and significance. The Divide, how - have no field data to substantiate this—to ever, is real and palpable; it’s worth wait deliberately until a good, steady sup - ply of summer insects is assured before returning. When they, ah, sing, I call it summer. So sue me. Soon, too soon, that nasal peeurrr will recede into the background noise of sum - mer, barely distinguishable from many similar sounds. Nature’s Muzak™, eleva - tor sounds: it’s there, but not remarkable. The flip side of this start of summer will be, all too soon, the end. One day, Bull moose Belted kingfisher

10 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 seeking out and recognizing. The Continental Divide is one of many reasons wildlife habitat varies so where I live. Its geology demarcates both dramatic and subtle changes in climate, forest types, topography, susceptibility to air stagnation episodes—and air pollution—and animal mi - gration patterns. In the Rocky Mountains, the Continental Divide runs roughly northwest to southeast. It is never, ever, in a straight line. Jackson, Wyoming, is west of the Divide, as is all of Grand Teton National Park. Red Lodge and West Yellowstone, Montana, and Cody, Wyoming, are east of it. The Divide splits Yellowstone National Park: Yellowstone Lake and Old Faithful Geyser Basin are on

307.733.5599 | 80 Center St. Jackson Hole, Wyoming www.hinesgold.com Hand Made in the U.S.A. Since 1970 Great gray owl the east side, the Snake River and its tribu - taries on the west. Fast, Affordable and On Your Way. In the Teton Wilderness lies a creek whose ® waters themselves divide, a portion flowing McDonald’s of Jackson Hole to the Atlantic, the remainder to the Pacific— appropriately called Two Ocean Creek. The Divide may be imperceptible or dra - matic. It may go unnoticed from the windows of a powerful vehicle or the back of a horse. It rests at 9,000 feet in most of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, climbing to a high point of just under 11,000 feet on Beartooth Pass near the Montana/Wyoming border. Elevation affects wildlife habitat as much as the Divide itself. Cody, Wyoming, is 5,000 feet; heck, corn actually grows and matures there. Red Lodge is 5,550 feet. Dubois, Wyoming, is 6,900 feet, but has a milder cli - mate than Jackson at 6,200 feet, the result of rain and snow “shadows” cast by the Tetons. Thermal areas, differing soils, lakes and rivers all affect plants and animals. I try in my wanderings to be alert to these and other influences. In general: North-fac - Open & Serving your favorites 5:00am - Midnight Daily ing slopes, river edges (and sidewalks) keep their snowpack longer than slopes with other Free Wi-Fi aspects; Douglas fir, spruce, and lodgepole forests tend to grow on them. South-facing 1110 W. Broadway, Jackson, WY • 1 mile west of Town Square slopes are often shrub-covered—“bare” in 307-733-7444 the vernacular. It’s cooler year-round on

www. tetonadventureguide. com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 11 Summer thunderstorm, Snake River Range

Water no longer transparent. At one time I had to I like the various sounds of running think about, deal with, and look at, dirty water. Murmurs and bubbling, swishing water. Meg and I vacationed in Jackson Hole and tumbling noises—even the ominous, back then. I spent happy hours simply looking deeper background sounds of flood-stage into clean water, a pleasure we were denied rivers. In my part of the world, river bot - most of the year. toms are cobble-lined; fast, high water It’s unfortunate that even though my fa - brings a clickiting or clackiting as rock is vorite waters are clear, I typically can’t see carried along and eroded, accompanied by what I know to be there. I’ve accepted that a tearing sound as uprooted trees and plant good fly fishermen and skillful river runners debris are transported to some new repose. see fish and underwater rocks; I never can. The reverberation is superimposed upon an They have a gift—practice hasn’t helped me. unsettling sensation felt through one’s feet I’m content, as there is no choice, to imagine Black Bear what is concealed. I know trout feed on lines revealed north-facing slopes. Meadows lush at 8,500 by surface patterns. I know feet are dry and sere at 6,000 feet, other fac - they are in pools and close tors being roughly equal. Sagebrush steppes to lakeshores. I know there are arid and harsh, as are alpine regions. are aquatic insects, not to Large tracts of unbroken lodgepole pine mention plants. forests occur where I live. They’re usually I don’t see them. Oh, a quiet places without a rich and varied wildlife duck, perhaps, or a mink— population. Alpine tundra also tends to har - should I have especially bor a limited spectrum of animals and plants. good luck—but not some Ponds, lake edges, and river bottoms provide log waiting to grab at any - excellent wildlife habitat for animals large thing I might be floating and small. In nature almost no niche remains past upon. in vacuo, but some habitats are distinctly I’m not much at being in more viable than others in supporting a di - water, either. I might feel versity of wildlife species. differently if wading boots Sometimes I use my knowledge to im - came anywhere near my prove the odds of finding wildlife, deliber - Bald eagle feeding chick continued page 15 ately directing my outings to aspen woodlands or river edges or areas I know a and teeth. certain animal prefers. This is useful when On winter days, there’s the dif - taking a census of bald eagles or trumpeter ferent sound of ice rubbing upon swans, searching for pocket gophers, check - ice—a tearing and abrading, but ing the spawning frenzy of rosy-sided suck - not abrasive sound. It’s natural ers—thought to be declining locally—or music. It belongs. Belongs to the gathering some other needed information. season, to the river. I enjoy such times. But it is my general I like to look at running water, custom simply to get out when I can and particularly clean running water. make quiet observations of whatever I’m for - Clean standing water—water I tunate to recognize. can look into, not just at. In much And only then to figure out on which side of this continent, the water in of the Divide I find myself. rivers, ponds, creeks and lakes is so muddy and contaminated it’s Coyote pups 12 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 www. yellowstoneadventureguide. com WILD by NATURE GALLERY MOOSE OF YELLOWSTONE AND GRAND TETON PHOTOGRAPHY AND TEXT BY HENRY H. HOLDSWORTH | FOREWORD BY CHARLIE CRAIGHEAD

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2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 13 r e t n e C y r e v o c s i D f l o W d n a y l z z i r G y s e t r u o c s o t o h P Bruins in the center’s habitat exhibit behavior that few people ever see in the wild (left), while wolves show the classic dominant and submissive behavior of a pack (above). McKinley (below) arrived at the center in 2006 to help create the nucleus of the growing High Country Wolf Pack. Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center by Mike Calabrese WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA Nothing can prepare visitors to West Yel - quickness of an 800-pound grizzly. lowstone’s Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Cen - The center’s wolves roam in their own ter (GWDC) for the startling, up-close River Valley Wolf habitat, separate from that experience of viewing these epic, almost of the grizzlies. But the two packs are as eas - mythic, animals. The haunting, intelligent ily and productively viewed from the out - eyes of the gray wolves and the regal pelage doors viewing deck through the and majesty of the grizzlies is simply breath - floor-to-ceiling windows of the new Natural - taking, even in this carefully controlled and ist Cabin. Kids, as well as adults, seem mes - maintained habitat. A visit to the center can merized by the wolves, and because passes to be every bit as moving and educational as a the center are good for two consecutive days, journey through the park itself, especially for visitors often return, as if to confirm the real - folks who never venture away from cars or ity and proximity of these mysterious ances - campgrounds. draws visitors into the world of bears, both tors to today’s canines. The not-for-profit Grizzly and Wolf Dis - “real and imaginary.” The 25 taxidermic The center is not resting on its laurels, ei - covery Center, also host to a first-class edu - specimens highlight the richly diverse col - ther. Plans for a birds-of-prey aviary and a ri - cational exhibit center and theater, is the last oration of grizzlies and the awe-inspiring parian habitat are well under way. stop for some of nature’s most recognizable girth of the polar bear. Even accomplished The GWDC is AZAA (American Zoo and and yet most threatened creatures. But it outdoorsmen will find the exhibit area’s in - Aquarium Association) certified, a much should be a first-stop for visitors to the park. teractive stations intriguing and challenging. prized and hard-earned endorsement. A visit All of the center’s eight grizzlies were Watching these bruins (the playful Sam to the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center otherwise doomed, thanks in no small part to tips the scales at 1,000 pounds) tussle with will easily win over the hearts and minds of their unfortunate adjustment to, or run-ins each other or rummage for food—hidden visitors of any age. with, humans. Foolish interactions —like throughout the habitat by both the center’s For more information, call the GWDC at feeding them—or the misguided killing of 800-257-2570 or go online its site: www.griz - staff and visiting kids—reveals behavior that,  predatory sows by ranchers put these bears frankly, few people ever witness. Seeing Illie zlydiscoveryctr.org. on a path toward certain destruction. The actually snatch a live rainbow from the habi - Mike Calabrese , a Jackson resident for 37 years, phrase “a fed bear is a dead bear” is not tat’s stocked pond beats looking at even the owns the region’s premiere music-booking agency, empty rhetoric. most famous and widespread photos of Ko - Noteworthy, is a board member of the Jackson Hole The center’s stunning exhibit, “Bears: Cowboy Jubilee, and supports his fly-fishing addiction diaks swatting at salmon. Impressive as those through music performance, writing, and editing . Imagination and Reality,” compellingly images are, they simply can’t convey the deft 14 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center DUBOIS, WYOMING center a breathtaking realism. Photos and hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range and habits of these pow - erful animals. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging hands-on displays and information. Dubois, of course, hosts o t this interpretive center for o h

p good reason: the nearby l l

a Whiskey Mountain is home to d o the largest wintering herd of o

W Rocky Mountain bighorn b o sheep in North America. And, B Stunning, full-size bighorns, set amidst their natural flora and during winter, the staff offers geology, lend a breathtaking realism to this center. fully guided tours to the snowy habitat. The center’s Few mammals can match the Rocky website also accesses a biolo - Mountain bighorn sheep for its sure-footed - gist’s journal describing the sheep’s slow re - ness. Powerful and nimble, even at 250 to covery from the population “crash” of 1990. 300 pounds, it treads crags and rocky trails Located right on the main street of Dubois like no other creature on earth. But this mag - (which just happens to be Wyoming Highway nificent animal’s survival is threatened all 287/26), the National Bighorn Sheep Inter - over the West. Fortunately, its beauty and ten - pretive Center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 uous existence have been showcased graphi - p.m. during the summer. Admission fees are cally and elegantly in the National Bighorn $2.50 for adults and $6 for families. Sheep Interpretive Center, right in downtown For more information, call toll free (888) 209-2795, go online at www.bighorn.org, or Dubois, Wyoming.  Stunning, full-size bighorns—set amidst e-mail the center at [email protected]. their natural flora and geology—lend to this — Mike Calabrese

continued from page 12 size. Or if I could swim. Or if I just liked the do at least some of the things you absolutely feel of water. had to get done this summer...some left over I’m simply entirely happy to look at gin- from previous years. clear water. Water-clear gin is pretty nice to It’s a nourishing green, welcomed by the contemplate, too. young and old elk and cow, deer and pika, ground squirrel and snowshoe hare. It’s the Green gardener’s green. The tourist’s green. The Summer solstice occurred not quite two hiker’s green. The artist’s green. The green- weeks ago. It is everywhere green. The to-hang-onto green.  green of wild rose and alfalfa, of pussytoe Because soon enough, it will be brown. leaves and gilia, of blue flax and balsamroot. Bert Raynes writes a weekly column in The green of full summer, accented by yel - the Jackson Hole News & Guide . He has lows, reds, blues, and diminishing brown penned four publications covering the birds Summer Hours: 9 a.m. — 7 p.m. hues. Invigorating greens. Promising greens. and animals of Grand Teton and Yellow - 907 W. Ramshorn Street Productive greens . stone national parks. His two favorite Dubois, Wyoming I think of it as the pinnacle green, the apex books, Valley So Sweet and Curmudgeon green. If I weren’t trying so hard to be so Chronicles , have received well-deserved, 307-455-3429 cutesy, the just-at-the-start-of-autumn green. wide acclaim. Bert’s latest book, Birds of www.bighorn.org The green-before-the-chlorophyll-shut-off Sage and Scree with Greg McHuron , has just email : [email protected] green. The green that suggests you ought to been released.

www. yellowstoneadventureguide com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 15 Recreation and transportation on the trails & pathways of Greater Yellowstone

ver a hundred miles of single-track and pathways create a top-tier collection of bike tours, among America’s best. Dur - ing the last nine years, Friends of Pathways, the U. S. Forest Service, Teton Freedom Riders, even the Boy Scouts of America, have worked to - gether to achieve a truly historic accomplishment. Friends of Pathways joins the towns of Jackson, Victor, and Driggs, and Grand Teton National Park to foster the paved pathway systems that make this a premier destination for bicy - clists of all types. Maps—good ones—are at www.friendsofpathways.org/re - sources. Bike and outdoor shops should have them too, and they’ll also stock good local guide books.

The Grand Teton pathway, a new favorite of bikers—and walkers (above) The Putt putt single-track, an old standby for mountain bikers (left)

Jackson Hole Cache Creek nudges Jackson’s eastern edge so closely that cyclists can ride from the bike shop to the trailhead in just a few minutes. The kiosk there displays a map of the Greater Snow King Trail System and its miles of single-track, bisected by a mellow-grade dirt road climbing lazily up-canyon to the Gros Ventre Wilderness boundary (leave your bike at the boundary for a bike-hike combo–no bikes allowed in the wilderness area). Numerous single-tracks weave along both sides of the canyon. Ride s o t

o the Putt Putt and Sidewalk trails on the north side through sunny fields of h p wildflowers and aspens. Cruise the south-side Hagen and Creekside trails y o

K for timbered and shady rides. Climb Ferrin’s trail and connect with Game c M

e Creek for a 20-plus-mile loop back to town on the paved Von Gontard, d a . W Paul Merritt, and Russ Garaman pathways 16 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 www. tetonadventureguide . com Wilson, Wyoming, the quaint berg a few miles pass accesses loop possibil - west of Jackson, has its own massive bike arena, the ities with the Black Canyon Teton Pass Area . Bike from downtown Wilson or trail, and Lithium—a wild drive up the pass to one of three trailheads. To bike downhill. Or head west to up the pass, take the paved pathway across from Mail Cabin Creek or Idaho’s the Stagecoach Bar one mile up to Trail Creek Mike Harris trailhead. Road, then head another mile up that road to the trailhead kiosk and map. From there, it’s a long, Teton Village steep, beautiful climb (2,000-plus-foot) up the Seven miles of super-fun paved Old Pass Road (non-motorized vehicles single-track traverses the only) to the top of 8,416-foot Teton Pass. But for entire lower mountain, the highest, newest and, some say, the most out - rolling and winding with standing single-track in the region, ride up the Old the ski terrain (designed Pass Road to the second switchback, take the sin - and built by year-round re - A tranquil road-ride in Antelope Flats, Grant Teton National Park gle-track across Mt. Glory’s slide path, then up past sort workers—skiers). A Jimmy’s Mom (super fun and tech-y downhill) to rocky dirt road climbs to the summit, but downhill Rest to learn tricks and jumps. Ask a resort em - the Phillips Canyon Trailhead and parking lot. riding is prohibited above the Gondola (you may ployee for a trail map. Cross the highway and head up the dirt road to the ride down only below the Gondola summit). Those Jackson Hole Pathways is a paved, ten-foot Arrow Trail. This fabulous course reveals many who bike to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain wide trail system that connects Wilson to Teton views as it winds upwards and outwards (and must ride the tram back down with their bikes, free Village and Grand Teton National Park, Jackson to downwards for the ride home). Ride options are of charge. Transport your bike up Teewinot chair - its schools, trailheads and outlying neighborhoods, many, with Sno-Tel, Phillips Ridge, and Phillips lift by purchasing a lift ticket at Nick Wilson’s Café. and Moose to Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Canyon in the mix. The trailhead at the top of the Check out the free beginner terrain park on Eagles Park. Future pathways are planned to connect these MOUNTAIN BIKE TOURS

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2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 17 by pumping through berms and rollers Lake. April cyclists have the Teton Park Road to without pedaling. It’s free and open to cy - themselves—the road is plowed but remains closed clist of all ages and abilities. to motorized travel for the first few weeks. Yellow - This fall Victor Velo hosts a series of stone follows suit, plowing the roads in April and Cyclocross races at Pioneer Park’s Cross allowing cyclists in, but not cars. Check with the Course. The marquee event, the Moose - individual parks for exact dates. Safe biking op - Cross on October 2-3, attracts over 100 portunities in Yellowstone are limited, but search racers. Look for more info at Vic - out a few road spurs open only to cycling and walk - torVelo.com . ing, like Fountain Flat Drive between Madison Road bikers love riding the Driggs- Junction and Old Faithful. Ask for the secret map Victor Pathway on the old railroad bed of 32 miles of old roads closed to motor vehicles. beside the highway and then climbing the What To Bring long, low-angle grade up Ski Hill Road up to Grand Targhee Resort. A mountain bike can take a rider much farther into the backcountry than legs alone. Extra prepa - Pinedale ration is essential. At a minimum, bikers need to be Ten miles into the Wind River Moun - able to fix a flat tire, so take a tube, a tube patch kit, tains above Pinedale, the White Pine Ski tire levers, and a pump. Have an idea of where Area has lift-accessed mountain biking, you’re going and how long the ride should take including advanced riding on downhill (maps and compass help). Pack lots of water, a lit - trails and more moderate trail riding. tle food, light rain gear, a thin warm layer, and a first Rentals available at the resort. aid kit to stop bleeding, dress cuts and abrasions, remove slivers, splint a sprain or break, soothe a Grand Teton and headache, and prevent a sunburn. Holster the pep - Yellowstone National Parks Downhill bikers love Lithium. per spray to deter the occasional lions and bears, or Biking in Grand Teton National Park, perhaps a bad dog owner. Consider also packing a existing routes and expand the system north to always a true joy, reached additional heights last few tools to tighten those nuts and screws that Colter Bay and south to Hoback Junction. All types year with the new Grand Teton pathway . Wind - eventually loosen, a spoke key to adjust the poten - of non-motorized use are encouraged for recreation ing along beside the highway, with some extra tial bent rim, a chain tool and master link for the as well as for transportation. For many locals, safe turns thrown in for fun, the pathway keeps cyclists rare broken derailleur or broken chain, and pliers biking routes are welcomed alternatives to motor - safe from collisions with motorists. Start at Dor - for a sure grip. All this can be packed in a small kit ized transportation, and the pathway system is a nan’s in Moose and bike out and back to Jenny that weighs only a pound or two. godsend. Get thee to a trailhead and go bicycling. Grand Targhee Keeping pace with the growing bike commu - nity, the bike trails around the Grand Targhee re - sort above Driggs, Idaho, satisfy riders of all abilities and agendas. Mom, dad, the kids—and the experts—all love these trails. Base area rides like Ricks Basin and Quakie Ridge are a blast to cruise, whether your pace is fast or slow. Experts can take their downhill mountain bike up the chairlift and bomb down the jumps and berms on Easy Rider, or ride their cross-country bike out to Mary’s Sad - dle and the Teton Vista Traverse. Over a dozen double-track and single-track bike trails give riders great views in the company of wildflowers and as - pens. Pick up a map at the activity center. Teton Valley This old ranching community went totally new- school last year when the nonprofit organization Victor Velo built the Bike Park. Adjacent to Pioneer Park on Elm Street in Victor, Idaho, the Bike Park offers beginner, intermediate, and advanced dirt jumps. A feature called a Pump Track, similar to a small-scale BMX track, helps riders maintain speed Phillips Ridge trail, a good pick for a long, high-altitude ride

18 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 Who Made It Happen These amazing mountain bike trails are the re - sult of a partnership between the Bridger-Teton National Forest, Friends of Pathways (a local non- profit advocacy group supporting pathways), and a variety of service organizations. One service organization of dedicated local mountain bikers, the Teton Freedom Riders, played a critical role in designing and building all the downhill-specific mountain bike trails in the Teton Pass Area. These descents include log drops, dirt jumps, and rock rides and, for more conserva - tive riders, easy ways around those experts-only features. The Teton Freedom Riders continue log - ging thousands of hours each summer buffing out the mountain bike trails. Check out their unique story at tetonfreedomriders.org. Another group of volunteers, The Order of the Arrow, Boy Scouts of America, helped trim the Teton Pass Area construction timetable drastically a cou - ple summers ago, building nearly 10 miles of new single-track (the Arrow Trail) in five days by com - mitting 650 trail workers for one week in July 2008. Pathways resulted from 16 years of advocacy by Friends of Pathways and many other bike enthusi -

Ferrin’s trail tops out in wildflowers and meadows with a Teton view. s o t o h p y o K c M e d a W

Bring plenty of water and remember to drink it. asts, including the Town of Jackson and the late Wyoming Senator Craig Thomas and his succes - sor, Senator John Barrasso, with the cooperation of the National Park Service. Etiquette Please remember, bikes must yield to all other trail users. Expect to see hikers and horse riders on many of these routes. Cyclists riding downhill should yield to cyclists riding up. Trail users should not give up their sense of hearing: turn down those tunes so you can still hear other people com - ing…and the lions, moose, and bears that, rest as - Rentals sured, are out there, too. Ride open trails only. Local Ride Info Respect wilderness and national park closures and private property. Give wildlife a wide berth. Next to Brew Pub Happy trails! Demos —Mountain Country Adventure Guide 245 W Hansen St. 307.734.6886 FitzgeraldsBicycles.com Maps

www. yellowstoneadventureguide . com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 19 Alpine white-water and scenic 1oat trips provide top vacation adventures.

by Tom Bie et the front seat if you can. That’s the first advice, that’s where the action is. Rafting in the Greater Yellowstone region is not only recom - mended, it’s practically required. The area is so packed with burly white water and calm lakes that to return home without getting on the water is like taking a trip to s o t

Hawaii and never going to the beach. o h p y o K The eight-mile white-water stretch of the anxiety will soon be re - c M e

Snake River just below Jackson Hole may placed by exuberance d a W offer the finest one-day introduction to rapids after you’ve pounded / s e in the country. Last year, with its recognition through some beefy r u t n as a Wild and Scenic River, it joined many waves and come through e V s s

others in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers upright and alive. e n r

System. The Snake and all its tributaries are There is a golden mo - e d l i finally protected. (see snakeriverfund.org.) ment, just as you enter W As you load up to begin your trip, some - the smooth, slick tongue White-water paddling—a fun and thrilling day on the river thing changes. You realize just how different of a big rapid, when time lope, black and grizzly bear can all be seen a raft feels than that desk chair you’ve be - stands still and the world is quiet despite the along regional waterways. In addition, come accustomed to and as you peer out over chaos around you. These are the moments on wolves have made their way into Grand Teton a river trip that create National Park, so its only a matter of time be - memories you’ll take fore these, too, are spotted along the banks of home with you. the Snake. Most outfitters offer Sometimes all you may want is silence, the choice of going in ei - and a float through the park offers the perfect ther an oar-frame boat, in answer for a quiet, lazy afternoon. which the guide does all The scenic upper section of the Snake is the work, or a paddle raft, much different than its white-water counter - in which everyone part in that it is very braided, with many dif - aboard helps maneuver ferent routes and side channels. The shoreline the boat downstream. varies greatly along these sections of river, as Whatever option you dense forests of spruce and lodgepole pine choose, call early, espe - give way to the deciduous stands of cotton - cially during those hot woods and aspen, where beavers like to make summer afternoons when their home. The Snake’s waters include long stretches of rapids. everybody is looking for Scenic floats also allow for more of an in - a splash in the face. terpretive trip, with visitors learning the his - a river carrying the collective weight of a Scenic Floats tory of the valley, its fur trappers, western long winter, you understand why this is still heritage, and geography.
considered an adventure. Time on the water is If you don’t think the splash-and-giggle time well spent. scene is for you, you’ll still want to check out Tom Bie worked in Jackson Hole as a fish - ing guide and as the sports editor for the Jack - Learn to enjoy that twinge in your gut as the possibility of going on a scenic trip. It is son Hole News & Guide before moving on to you round a bend and hear a roar like the here where you are likely to encounter some stints as senior editor at The Drake , Skiing , sound of ocean waves breaking on the beach. of the larger mammals that inhabit the region. and Powder . If you’re nervous—good, that’s the idea. The Moose, elk, deer, bison, pronghorn ante - 20 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 Grand Teton National Park surfers are allowed on Yellowstone Boating is restricted to non-motorized craft, and Lewis lakes, but only paddle except on Jackson and Jenny lakes, where power - boats on Shoshone Lake. Again, boats are allowed. But leave the jet skis home! leave the jet skis home! All other Launches along the Snake River access a variety rivers and lakes are closed to of waters, all beautiful, some very dangerous. Life boaters. Life preservers and per - preservers and boat permits are required. Info: mits are required. Boats can be (307) 739-3309. Canoes, pontoon boats, and rented at Bridge Bay Marina. On - small powerboats can be rented at Signal Moun - line: www.nps.gov/yell. Info: (307) tain or Colter Bay marinas on Jackson Lake. 344-7381. Boaters will have to register their craft at the West of Yellowstone Moose Visitors’ Center, where more information West of the park, the Madison Canoe in remote serenity on Yellowstone’s Shoshone Lake. is available in one of the country’s newest and River provides white water from coolest visitors’ centers. Naturally, a host of float - Ennis Reservoir through Bear Trap Canyon and ing, fishing, kayaking, canoeing, sail boating, and idyllic floating to its confluence with the Mis - Don’t Spread Aquatic scenic concessionaires operate by permit within souri River. Info: Madison Ranger District: (406) the park, all researched by going online at Nuisance Species 682-4253. www.nps.gov/grte. Before launching any watercraft, clean, in - Green River & Pinedale Area spect, and dry equipment that is wet from previ - y

o Bridger-Teton National Forest

K ous trips. Scrub wading boots, Aqua Sox, and c The Green River between Pinedale and Big M Class III and IV white water on the Snake wader gear. Put watercraft, trailers, ropes, and an - e Piney is primarily utilized for fishing. For infor - d River begins at West Table and runs eight miles a mation, go to www.blm.gov/wy and pull up a chors through approved hot-water power washes. W

/ through the Snake River Canyon. Self-registra - s map of any BLM field office and district in the Wyoming Game and Fish now requires all e r tion, while not required, is available at West u t state. Just point and click. The short story: Fre - boatowners to purchase boat decals ($5-$10) to n

e Table. Scenic float waters that also hold fish in -

V mont (tons of opportunities and amenities here) help fund boat inspection stations in Grand s clude the South Fork of the Snake. On the Web: s e and Half Moon lakes, near Pinedale, allow paddle Teton National Park and at Palisades Reservior. n r www.snakeriverfund.org. Info: (307) 734-6773. e craft and power and sailboats; and Green River Invasion of aquatic nuisance and invasive d l i For maps and boatloads of good info try species is creating environmental destruction. W Lakes, north of Cora, allow paddle craft only. Call www.Snakeheadwatersact.com. (307) 367-5300 for more info. Rapidly growing aquarium weeds thoughtlessly Other rivers in the area offer possibilities discarded into local waterways—as well as from serene scenery to challenging rapids. On Cody & the North Fork dozens of exotic shellfish, snail, and fish species the Web: www.fs.fed.us/r4/btnf. Everything you In Cody, river runners can catch Class III that have arrived and have been poured mostly wanted to know about recreating on regional and rapids on the North Fork of the Shoshone River into the Great Lakes as foreign shipping bal - national federal land. Or call (307) 739-5500 for from Yellowstone Park to the reservoir, or com - last—are choking out native species. Recre - information on running the Buffalo Fork, Gros bine placid water with Class IV rapids on the main ational boaters, hikers, canoeists, kayakers, Ventre, Hoback, or Greys rivers. Shoshone from the reservoir to just past town. The hunters, rafters, and campers can unknowingly Additional lakes in the area: Slide Lake, east place to start: www.fs.fed.us/r2/shoshone/recre - pick up and relocate everything from the tiny of Jackson (windsurfing, sailboats, paddle craft); ation/fishing or call (307) 527-6241. New Zealand mud snail, zebra and quagga mus - Palisades Reservoir, at Alpine Junction (power Water skiing, fishing, and windsurfing are en - sels to strands of Eurasian milfoil, hydrilla and and sailboats). joyed on the Buffalo Bill Reservoir (see sidebar water hyacinth aquatic grasses and hundreds of Yellowstone National Park on page 38), west of Cody. Info: (307) 587-9227 other invasives. or online at www.bbdvc.com. Please don’t spread aquatic nuisance species. In Yellowstone National Park, motorboats, ca - noes, rowboats, kayaks, sailboats, and wind - —Mountain Country Adventure Guide — Paul Bruun

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www. tetonadventureguide . com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 21 Greater Yellowstone’s waters boast some of the world’s 0nest angling.

By Paul Bruun

uperb trout rivers lie within an easy reach of northwest y o

Wyoming, so it’s possible to base in K c M

Jackson, Cody, or West Yellowstone, e d a

Montana, and fish a variety of loca - W tions on day trips. But weather rules here Fine-spotted cutthroat trout enliven area waters. in mountain country. Stream levels vary be - National Park Access cause drainage runoff times differ. Higher Fishing seasons on waters in states surrounding Yellowstone National altitude lakes often are not free of ice until Park vary slightly. Most waters are fishable by Memorial Day weekend. late June, while lower-level and larger Yellowstone Park requires purchase of a fishing permit, available from vis - reservoirs where wind aids thawing begin itor stations. Yellowstone as well as Grand Teton National Park also re - quire the purchase of a boat permit (valid in both parks) not only for sail losing ice in mid April. Targeting lakes dur - and powerboats but also for float tubes and pontoon boats. Yellowstone ing early river runoff periods is a entrances and ranger stations sell fishing permits and boat permits. Grand practical plan. Teton boat permits are available at the Moose Visitor Center. A Wyoming fishing license is necessary in Grand Teton. l l a d o o W b o B

The Lewis River in Yellowstone Park provides roadside fishing access at Lewis Falls.

22 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 round. After much hard work and inspiration from the late U. S. Senator Craig Thomas, Congress de - creed that many miles of the Snake River and its headwaters were included under the Wild and Sce - nic River status in 2009. The Snake is headquarters to its own sub - species—a fine-spotted cutthroat trout—and is Wyoming’s largest Blue Ribbon River. A popular Jackson attraction, the Snake is fished and floated by most anglers and visitors. Easily reached lakes like Jackson, Jenny, Leigh, Palisades, and Grassy are ice-free in May and fish well from shore until July’s heat arrives. Then deep water trolling and jigging become popular lake techniques until later in Sep - tember, when fish again are found moving into shallower sections. Lake or mackinaw trout that can weigh 50 pounds, as well as cutthroat, thrive in these deep lakes. Inside the South Entrance of Yel - lowstone are Lewis and Shoshone, both excellent lake and brown trout fisheries. Both are accessible through October. Once the Snake clears, flows are high and swift “Bad” fall weather sometimes accompanies an excellent day of fishing. throughout the summer until late September. Its steep gradient makes wading challenging, so this river is best fished by Trout-harvest Information floating. Cutthroat are enthusiastic about dry flies but also chase stream - Trout seasons on Wyoming’s Snake and South Fork of the Snake in ers, nymphs, and spinning lures. Grasshopper fly fishing in August and Idaho now include year-round fishing. The Snake’s trout harvest season in September is a cherished part of the Snake’s season. More suited to wad - Wyoming runs April 1 through October 31 for cutthroat. Catch-and- ing are the Hoback, Gros Ventre, and Buffalo, as well as Flat Cottonwood release cutthroat fishing is permitted November 1 through March 31. and Pacific creeks. The Hoback provides a giant stonefly hatch in early Idaho biologists have implemented an annual catch-and-release regula - July. Flat Creek in the National Elk Refuge is a challenging fly-fishing- tion on all cutthroat in the South Fork of the Snake as well as a special only, spring creek-like stream that opens on August 1. limit on brown trout. This protects native cutthroat strains from increas - ing rainbow trout intrusion and potential hybridization. Idaho encour - Cody ages year-round rainbow harvest to protect from hybridized spawning, Named for the famous Wild West personality, this Yellowstone east en - especially on the upper South Fork. This concept remains controversial, trance community offers a variety of lake, reservoir, and stream fishing. with many anglers preferring to release the rainbows they capture while Cody anglers follow numerous insect hatches emerging from the North others welcome the chance of creeling a few for the skillet. Fork of the Shoshone. This popular river creates the productive Buffalo Bill Reservoir and offers rainbows, cutthroats, and browns. Lake trout are Be Prepared Visitors focused on fishing must remember the presence of storms, insects, and bears. Higher-elevation weather conditions change rapidly. A savage temperature drop accompanies fast-moving mountain storms that deliver chill - ing winds and combinations of rain, hail, or snow. Pack an extra fleece jacket or insulated vest to aid rainwear. Graphite rods attract lightning, so cease casting when surrounded by thunder - storms. Biting insects inhabit irrigated ranch lands and high meadows where snowmelt col - lects in the early season. Full-coverage clothing and bug repellent are helpful. Keep a currently dated can of pepper spray handy during fish - ing/hiking/camping visits to bear country: re -

s member that bears like to fish too. o t o h

p Regional Fishing Destinations y o

K Jackson Hole c M

e Great angling destinations abound both in d a and around Jackson Hole. Portions of rivers like W the Hoback, Salt, and Greys are open year- Sometimes fishing isn’t about catching.

www. yellowstoneadventureguide . com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 23 also abundant in Buffalo Bill and, unfortunately, non-native walleye have recently entered the system through illegal stocking. Note that Wyoming G&F regs impose spawning closures from April 1 to July 1 on portions of river and reservoir. Wyoming’s first federally proclaimed Wild & Scenic River, the Clark’s Fork of the Yellow - stone, is a ruggedly beautiful trout stream. In - formation on exceptional fishing reached by reasonable wilderness lake hikes from the de - manding Beartooth Highway (U.S. 212) is s o available from Cody fly shops. A variety of t o h grayling, rainbow, cutthroat, and brook trout p y o

are available to fly and spin fishermen after late K c

June. Remember, access on these lakes is im - M e d proved by use of float tubes and portable kick a boats. A short ride from Cody are East and W Wary trout spook easily, so fishermen sometimes employ stealth along the bank. West Newton lakes as well as Hogan and Luce reservoirs. The Lower Shoshone River as it far up the Horse Creek Road from Dubois and park fishing closes in early November. Earlier, flows right through Cody produces excellent then a short ride on County Road 506. Bog Hebgen Lake and its various arms offer superb winter, spring, and late-summer fly fishing . Lake, also accessed from the Horse Creek Road, dry fly fishing. During the morning calm, trout sports both rainbows and arctic grayling. Along locally termed “gulpers” cruise between surface Dubois historic Union Pass Road anglers can pursue blankets of tiny “Trico” mayflies, sipping con - Fremont County’s “banana belt” is nestled fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat in Lake of stantly. Later the Tricos are joined by larger Cal - along the Wind River, where the community of the Woods and also experience Little Warm libaetis mayflies (speckled spinners) as the trout Dubois offers small and large stream and lake Springs. For trophy Yellowstone cutthroat, visit party hits high gear. fishing that begins right in town. The Wind is a Pelham Lake—usually ice free by mid June— The Yellowstone River (with a few tributary year-round fishery known for some braggin’ west of Dubois off Warm Springs Road. Contact exceptions) traditionally opens on July 15 to a length browns. Small-stream fans will love the local shops for exact directions to these inter - flourish of caddis insects. This is a superb fish - scrappy cutthroat in the Wiggins Fork, not too esting area fisheries. ery for large Yellowstone-strain cutthroat that are willing risers for a variety of fly imitations. West Yellowstone In the park the Yellowstone provides an excep - This quaint town sitting tional range of catch-and-release fishing oppor - astride the west entrance to tunities. Yellowstone Lake offers the Yellowstone is the jumping- opportunity to pursue its native cutthroat not off point to legendary West - only from boats and float tubes but from the ern rivers that include the banks as well. Spin and fly fishermen enjoy suc - Madison, Henry’s Fork, Yel - cess from many beaches and shores along park lowstone, Firehole, Gallatin, roads and parking areas. Lamar, Gibbon, and more. The universally acclaimed Pinedale salmon fly hatch on the An Old West ranching community 75 miles Lower Madison begins in late south of Jackson Hole, Pinedale is situated adja - June and peaks around July cent the magnificent Wind River Range and 4. The Firehole, America’s squarely along the historic Oregon Trail. This most unusual trout river, is portion of Sublette County offers hiking and fed by Yellowstone’s great horse-packing entrances to the Wind Rivers and geysers, fumaroles, and ther - its endless trout-filled lakes. The Green and mal springs. A similar resi - New Fork rivers begin here and flow south, dent rainbow and brown where they ultimately unite near “The Nation’s population also flourishes in Ice Box,” Big Piney. It is hard to believe the ex - the Madison in the park, ceptional brown and rainbow fishing in the where excellent mayfly and Green and smaller New Fork. Flowing from the caddis hatches entertain until Green River Lakes, the many miles of the upper hopper fishing takes over in Green meander through private and public August. By mid-September, property, where camping and public access areas spawning fish from miles are found on BLM lands. Upstream from the downstream in Hebgen Lake Warren Bridge on U. S. 189/1919, under which begin migrating into the park the Green flows, are a dozen BLM access areas Crystal clear waters reveal fish to alert anglers. and provide excitement until that offer wading access. Downstream, mostly

24 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 Harriman State Park begin warming in June, the quently employ delicate fishing skills to fool the Henry’s Fork’s prolific insect hatches attract abundant but picky South Fork trout. Both trout lovers from all over the world who enjoy Snake branches have local fly shops and can be challenging its selective rainbows. The South accessed by several Jackson outfitters.
Fork begins in the wilderness above Yellowstone Paul Bruun writes the weekly “Outdoors” column and courses through Grand Teton National in the Jackson Hole News & Guide and contributes to Park, Jackson Hole, and finally into Idaho at Pal - outdoor magazines. He operates South Fork Fly Fish - isades Reservoir. It’s the country’s largest native ing Float Trips and founded the South Fork Skiff drift cutthroat fishery. Big browns swim there too. boat company. He served 12 years on the Jackson Town Council during his 37 years in Jackson. Despite being such a sizable river, anglers fre - private land surrounds the Green, but a hand - ful of public and private access points dot the river. Float fishing is popular beginning in early July when streams and lakes clear. Check local hiking shops for current access information. Vehicle accessible Soda and Willow lakes provide float tube and small-boat angling opportunities. Southeastern Idaho Giant stoneflies and more colorful western fishing aquatic insect hatches historically highlight ex - periences on the Henry’s (North Fork) and the South Fork of the Snake River in Southeastern Idaho. The Henry’s Fork salmon fly hatch be - gins around Memorial Day holiday in the toasty flows of the Warm River area near Ashton. As hunting the waters surrounding Last Chance and the camping snow sports

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www. tetonadventureguide . com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 25 Take to the canyons, peaks, meadows, and forests for walks of any distance.

iking remains the only way to access some of the best places in and around this wild country. With hun - dreds of great trails, choosing one can be the biggest challenge. Pick up a good guidebook—for each one of these suggested hikes, there are dozens more waiting to be discovered.

Grand Teton National Park To mention only one hike for this national park might be viewed as a bit presumptu - y o K ous—there are in fact hundreds of gems. Visit c M e the spectacular Craig Thomas Discovery and d a W Visitor Center in Moose to get a sense of this / s e r

special place. u t n e

Here’s a newly opened hiking area (it was V s s

private property until recently) that is truly e n r unique. e d l i

Drive to Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve W on the Moose-Wilson Road. Get there before Streams rush through Garnet Canyon, the Grand’s lower pinnacles reach into the clear blue sky. 10:30 a.m., as parking is limited. Walk through the Rockefeller Preserve Center to along the rushing creek to Phelps Lake. Catch Stop often at these marked points of interest appreciate the depth of this family’s wisdom a breather on one of the benches set there for and take a stroll, often on boardwalks and and generosity. contemplation and take in the view of the sometimes on stairways, through the geyser In the words of the National Park Service, Tetons reflecting in the crystal-clear waters. basins, to the waterfalls, and by the lakeshore. “Rockefeller made a life-long commitment to Start walking around the lake clockwise and Push yourself just a little farther, dally just a making areas of natural scenic beauty acces - you’ll soon experience some very unusual little longer, and you may just reap the re - sible to the public. He strongly believed that hiking—an elevated grate over sensitive and wards—an erupting geyser, a rainbow re - nature has the power to restore and sustain the otherwise impassable marshlands. fracting in waterfall mist, or pelicans landing human spirit. It was his hope that, by experi - Yellowstone National Park on the lake. There is no place else in the encing this spiritual and emotional renewal, world like Yellowstone. visitors to the preserve would become aware The intrepid hiker will find any number of Jackson of the importance of nature in their own lives otherworldly treks here. But incredible expe - and acknowledge their roles in acting as good riences await even the less-ambitious out - Take a short stroll on the KY trail and stewards of the land.” doors person at the many roadside attractions. wander the flowered south-facing slopes Reflect on that as you head up the trail And, though short, they count as hikes, too. above town, or make it an excursion with

26 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 y o K c M e d a W / s e r u t n e V s s e n r e d l i W

The Beartooth Range is peppered with alpine lakes. 360-degree views by connecting with Josie’s turn left onto Trail Creek Road. Drive a mile mately two miles. Ride the lift down, or ride Ridge trail to the summit of Snow King to the end of the road and park at the trail - the lift up and hike down, or ride the lift both Mountain. Gaze upon the five mountain head. A kiosk shows the route, but better yet, up and down and leave all your energy for ranges surrounding Jackson Hole and the lit - get the map at the State of Wyoming Infor - wandering and picnicking at 10,000 feet. Re - tle town of Jackson nestled in this idyllic set - mation Center in north Jackson or print it on - member, though, the last chair down is at 4 ting. Come back down the same way or loop line at friendsofpathways.org/resources. It p.m. Maps at grandtarghee.com. around down the Snow King service road and contains wonderful historic information. Pinedale Sink or Swim trail back to your car. Park at Grand Targhee the trailhead on Wildlife Drive, just off Snow Pinedale’s backyard is the Wind River King Avenue between Virginian Lane and Beginning your day at 7,860 feet has ad - Mountains and contains 15 of Wyoming’s 16 Flat Creek Drive. Pay attention to the trail vantages—like a hike up the Teton Vista Tra - highest peaks, including Gannett Peak— markers on the way out—the myriad of trails verse to the summit of Fred’s at 10,000 feet Wyoming’s highest at 13,804 feet. Hundreds of can get confusing on the way back. Maps at and a view of the Tetons that will knock your miles of trails, streams, forest, and some 1,300 friendsofpathways.org/resources socks off. Begin this hike on the service road lakes await your selection. Stop in town and get to the right of the base of Dreamcatcher chair some suggestions from a local. Don’t fret over Teton Village lift. Stay left at the first intersection. At the which hike to pick. You can’t go wrong. Ride the tram up to 10,400-feet and with second intersection, veer right for approxi - —Mountain Country Adventure Guide very little effort the high alpine tundra is at your feet. For a good hike from the tram’s top station, walk across Rendezvous Mountain on the Top of the World trail to the Cody Bowl Spur, then on to the Green River Overlook. Go back the same way or loop around to the Summit trail via Rock Springs Loop. For a bigger adventure, take the Granite Canyon trail back to the valley. Better yet, hike up Granite Canyon and ride the tram back down. It’s better for the knees, and it’s a free ride! Remember to bring a coat. It can be cold up there! Maps at jacksonhole.com. Wilson Bring history into the hike on the Historic y

o Wagon Route up Teton Pass. Look for arti - K c facts along the way—buck-and-rail fences, a M e d corduroy bridge, the Reed Hotel Rock, and a W more. Drive up the pass a couple miles and The Jackson Hole Aerial Tram in Teton Village gives hikers a 4,139-foot lift into the alpine zone.

www. yellowstoneadventureguide . com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 27 Why do they climb? Musing from mountaineers

By Steve Gardiner

o one ever asked me why I played football or baseball. Those are normal enough pur - suits for Americans, and they need no explanation. But when I fell in love with climbing, I was asked the question continually. At first I’d stammer, attempt - ing answers. I even tossed off George Mallory’s celebrated “Be - cause it’s there” line, but never re - ally believed it. It just broke the seriousness of the question and covered for my lack of a quick, definitive answer. In fact, when I first heard the question, I never really knew where to start. Climbing is a simple game, but one played out on a complex field with no spectators. Maybe that sums up what concerns the people who ask the question. It is a simple game, because the only rule is to get up the route. No governing committee publishes a rule book with yearly updates. No officials observe the event and re - ward or penalize participants. No The Golden Stair, Grand Teton—Middle Teton Glacier in background photos: Wilderness Ventures / Wade McKoy 28 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 Climb the Grand... and more with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides y o K c M e d a W / s e r u t n e V s s e n r e d l i W

Offering guided climbs and rock climbing instruction throughout the Tetons Custom mountaineering trips & alpine treks in the Wind Rivers & Beartooths Kids and families welcome JACKSON • CODY • LANDER . n Wall Street at dawn on the Grand Teton i w d o o

medals or trophies are given, and no one sees take that chance you take control of your life, G b o

the greatest athletic feat of the climbers, ex - and when you take control of your life it has B y b o

cept the climber and one or two friends. lots of benefits for you. It’s confronting your t o h

Yet, it is perhaps these same traits that fears head on. It’s confronting a lot of human P make climbing appeal to the people who de - fear, fear of death, fear of falling; confronting vote time, energy, and money to the sport. things like laziness, inertia, and being totally After I tried answering the “why” question responsible for yourself, which is uncommon a few times, I decided I should write an essay in our world today, and I think that’s why I explaining my motives. Then, when con - like it. It’s immediate gratification. It gives fronted with the question, I could hand out a you a sense of self-worth. It may be an illu - copy of my essay, or at least summarize the sion, but it’s an important illusion.” ideas I had developed. I tried writing it. The While many of the people I talked with result was an avalanche of words that ended discussed the excellent physical training that up as rubble in the valley of the garbage can. I couldn’t get it right and, in the end, no one ever saw the essay. JACKSON HOLE I decided that the answer was bigger than MOUNTAIN GUIDES an essay, maybe bigger than me, so I started & Climbing School asking the question myself. I posed the Since 1968 question to some of the best climbers in 165 North Glenwood Street America and Europe, and each time I asked, Jackson, Wyoming 83001 “Why do you climb?” I got different and in - 800.239.7642 307.733.4979 teresting answers. www.jhmg.com For example, Scott Heywood of Sheri - Jackson Hole Mountain Guides is an authorized dan, Wyoming, said, “You make conscious concessioner of Grand Teton National Park and is per- mitted by the US Forest Service to operate on the decisions to take a chance, and when you Bridger-Teton, Shoshone and Custer National Forests.

www. tetonadventureguide . com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 29 climbing affords, Chris Bonnington, who climbed Everest and is one of England’s finest climbers, talked about how climbing af - fects one mentally. He said, “One of the fea - tures of climbing is the intensity of concentration it exacts. In its basic form, if you are poised on a rock wall a hundred feet above the ground, all other thoughts and problems are engulfed by the need for ab - solute concentration. There is no room for anything other than the problem of staying in contact with the rock and negotiating the next few moves. In this respect, climbing y o K

offers an escape, or c M perhaps it would e d a be better to de - W / s e

scribe it as a relax - r u t ation, from n e V s

everyday worries s e n of human relation - r e d l ships, money, or i W : s

jobs. This relax - o t o ation lasts for h p longer than just Climbing can be fun, too. those moments when you are actually climbing and life is in jeopardy.” Some believe that climbing can take peo - ple beyond the physical and mental to the philosophical. Jackson Hole’s own Glenn Exum, who died in 2000, once said, “I have loved climbing, and the reason is that if you are up there and having a beautiful day and a few cumulus clouds are sprinkled around and everyone is moving and handling the rope right and the air is clear and you can see for - ever, well, I think that is really almost an un - matchable experience. It is almost sacred.” For some climbers, like Jim Bridwell of California, climbing is art. “It is like gym - nastics, dancing, painting—you have the rock Descending the Owen Spalding route, Grand Teton as a canvas and you express your idea in the route. That’s been my attitude towards climb - ing. It’s a chance to do something new and creative and beautiful. If it is clean, beautiful rock and a line that stands out as pure—good, consistent, hard climbing all the way, good quality moves, consistent in its nature and texture—then it has something to say.” In the end, I guess I have found that the quick, definitive answer I was trying to find so long ago just doesn’t exist. Climbing af - fects people deeply, passionately. I think climbers know why they climb while they are doing it, but the real challenge is trying to transform human motivation into words. Why climb mountains? Perhaps there isn’t a good answer, or perhaps there are many good answers.
Steve Gardiner teaches high school Eng - lish and journalism in Billings, Montana, and was named Montana Teacher of the Year in 2008. Why I Climb is one of his four books, and he has written over 550 articles for var - ious newspapers and magazines.

Nearing the summit, Grand Teton

DISCOVER CLIMBING WITH EXUM MOUNTAIN GUIDES! From kids to seniors and • Classic Teton climbs beginners to experts, Exum has • Private and group classes everyday a guide for you and Marmot has • Climb the Grand Teton! the outdoor gear you need. • Fun climbing activities for families • Kids-only climbing programs (307) 733-2297 WWW.EXUMGUIDES.COM

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK • SOUTH JENNY LAKE • BOX 56 • MOOSE, WY 83012 • [email protected] EXUM IS AN AUTHORIZED CONCESSION OF GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK www. focusproductions . com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 31 HORSEBACK RIDING

Top: a remote alpine lake in the Absaroka Mountains, fishing for golden trout Below: wrangling the riding stock; spurs

Mosey on down h c n a R C e l

the trail and into g n a i r T / s o

the Old West t o h p l l a d o by Joy Ufford o W b o B You haven’t seen the real There are several noteworthy factors in you’re after, consider a half-day or full-day West until you’ve viewed it choosing the trail ride that fits you. First of all, trail ride. Many outfitters provide lunch trips, decide what country you’d like to see. Outfit - and some even cook up a steak over a camp - from the top of a horse, with ters operate from all the major towns fire or whip up a Dutch oven dinner like Jackson, Cody, Dubois, over red-hot coals. an alpine breeze ruffling and Pinedale for a quick Also consider how long trip. Ranches in outlying you can ride without get - your hair as your mount areas and stables in Grand ting too saddlesore, al - clip-clops along the trail. Teton and Yellowstone though it’s true that the National Parks also supply aches and pains from a Whether you’re a tenderfoot or experi - riders with stock and guides. longer ride will ease up and enced horseman, there are plenty of options In less than an hour or two, vanish in a day or so, and you’ll to choose from, with mountain country out - the mountain ranges, alpine lakes, and have plenty of great memories and pho - fitters offering trail rides that last anywhere geyser basins in the Greater Yellowstone Re - tographs to take home for your efforts. It from an hour to as many days as you can go gion can be brought right in front of your never hurts to check and see if your lodging without a shower. camera. But if it’s the flavor of the wilderness has a hot tub or masseuse on hand, too! 32 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 A different twist is of - square dancing, soaking in a fered by Wagons West. They sun-warmed pool or reading take modern-day pioneers bestsellers in the shade of an into the Bridger-Teton Na - old cottonwood tree. Keep tional Forest backcountry for in mind that reservations two-, four- or six-day cov - might be required, and ered wagon excursions. many guest ranches request Guests can either ride on the a three-night minimum stay. wagons or saddle up on a If you like the idea of the trusty steed, or both. After a Old West but groan at the day of riding along remote thought of actually riding a mountain trails and taking in horse, there’s still hope for scenic vistas, guests are you. Any outfitter worth his treated to a rib-stickin’ or her salt will give you as chuckwagon dinner. The much help as they can— Guided Horseback Trail Rides l l evening continues around they live this life because 2 hour — Half Day — All Day a d o the campfire, where cow - they love being outside All Day Rides include a Sack Lunch o W

b boys serenade guests with themselves. o Yellowstone B authentic Western music. Finally, locals love to When you are all tuckered A young buckaroo share their experiences and Outfitters out, settle down under the knowledge, so don’t be TETON WILDERNESS - HORSEBACK TRAIL RIDES starry night sky in a cozy tent or the bed of the afraid to ask for their opinions and advice. & WAGONS WEST - COVERED WAGON TREKS covered wagon. Awake to the aroma of au - Other sources of information include lodging thentic cowboy coffee brewing over the camp - activities desks, local chambers of commerce, 307-543-2418
{ Local calls from Jackson } fire and dive into a hearty chuckwagon and national forest offices. 1-800-447-4711 breakfast. Then hit the trail again and soak in Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she the Old West. Permittee of Bridger TetonNational Forest and is a ranch hand and a writer for Pinedale’s TetonWildernessArea • Outfitter License#085 For the adventurous, a pack trip just might Sublette Examiner . For the adventur - fulfill those dreams of riding dusty trails THE VIRGINIAN LODGE & RV PARK ous, a pack trip probably first trav - just might fulfill eled by Native Saloon & Liquor Store • Restaurant American hunters Jackson Hole, Convention/Meeting Facilities those dreams of stalking wild game. Wyoming JACUZZI SUITES riding dusty trails A pack trip (so- OUTDOOR HEATED POOL probably first called because OUTDOOR HOTTUB horses or mules are RV PARK traveled by Native packed with all nec - 750 West Broadway American hunters essary gear) can last a night or even a 800-262-4999 307-733-2792 week—the only www.virginianlodge.com limit is your stamina for a rustic backcountry # A Taste of the Old West # lifestyle. The cost generally includes meals, tents, and some good old-fashioned entertainment under the stars. Spending a night in a grassy meadow, listening to horse bells clang and coyotes howl, is a surefire way to create a one-of-a-kind visit to Wyoming. For those who want to combine luxury with wilderness hospitality, there are first-class guest ranches throughout the region, where getting in a daily horseback ride is the norm. Some are extra-good at catering to the family, and offer special kids’ programs that let par - ents have a little time off for themselves. For guests wanting a respite from the sad - dle, these ranches usually offer fly fishing,

www. yellowstoneadventureguide. com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 33 The brave confidence of steer wrestling A cowboy waiting for a ride Ro# de o# ####### The Original Cowboy Sport #######

By Joy Ufford # t’s the most magical moment of the The same can be said of their horses, whether buckin’ Cody Nite Rodeo contract several years ago. Inight, when a microphone crackles broncs or muscled mounts: that good feeling of doing a “They’re all born to buck,” he said. “It’s what they’re to life and the inspiring lyrics of our job well holds as true for the animals as it does for the bred to do. It’s what their great-granddaddies and great- national anthem lift hearts around the men and women who ride them and for the rodeo clowns grandmas were bred to do. A lot of people think they’re arena as many sing along with the words who risk life and limb to entertain the crowd. wild, but they’re not. They just don’t get handled much as that stir them deeply every time—“the land Cody Nite Rodeo colts. They’re bred to buck—and they love to buck.” of the free and the home of the brave…” Cody has been called the“Rodeo Capital of theWorld,” He raises some bucking colts himself and also buys Rodeo is so thoroughlyAmerican now (despite roots in and that isn’t stretching things, with talented cowboys and from certain breeders. vaquero and ranching traditions of Mexico and old Califor - “It’s a whole industry within itself,” he said. “Some nia) that it’s mandatory to see the star-spangled banner people just raise bucking colts.” grasped in a rodeo queen’s hand as she gallops around the Tate knows what he’s looking for. “To me the perfect arena on her horse, both showing off for appreciative crowds. scenario is when the horse looks really good, bucks really That’s what rodeo is all about, in a way—showing off. hard, and makes a really good ride. The cowboy is not From snaky bulls to snorting broncs, born to buck and competing against the horse; the cowboy is competing born to run; from a glittering rhinestone-studded belt here with the horse. You want him to jump out there and to some turquoise-fringed leather there. It’s about showing kick—the higher and harder the better.” off in a good way, because there’s nothing wrong with liv - Bucking bulls are an industry of their own as well, with ing to kick higher, run faster, ride longer, rope quicker. registration programs, futurities, and classics.A cow with For bull and bronc riders it’s about getting better good bucking blood can bring $25,000, even $50,000. scores, keeping a tighter handle on their ride. For the bulls “If your cow’s bred the right way, her calves can bring s

and broncs, it’s about putting on a show trying to launch $2,000 a round at six months old,” Tate explained. o t o

cowboys into outer space. Tate and family, from Oklahoma, own “Mo” Betta h p l l

When the sparkling gals tear around on their Clothing Co., which came about after he asked his mother a d o

stretched-out horses, burning turns around three barrels to design some wild Western shirts when he started o W

set in sand, it’s about speed and style. For the more taciturn rodeoing. He sold them off his back, literally, at rodeos b o ropers, it’s the quick elegance of a rope sailing through the where he first rode bulls and then roped calves. Garth B air to catch a steer or calf in a heartbeat or two. A bucking bronc throws his rider. Brooks is a devoted customer and wears“Mo” Betta shirts Man, woman, or animal, it’s a great way to be alive. girls coming from Peru, Australia, Canada—even at his concerts. There’s nothing like it. Japan—to test their skills in Stampede Park, vying for big The Tate clan works the Cody Nite Rodeo (almost 80 Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years, except to cash and big buckles. And to have an exciting show every years old) from June 1-Aug. 31 at 8 p.m., with the Profes - get even better—better horses, meaner bulls, faster times, night, the rough stock has to buck. sional Rodeo Cowboy Association-sanctioned Cody and more money. But one thing that never changes about Stock contractor Maury Tate said that’s what his Stampede Rodeo (since 1937) July 1-4. Then, on July 5 at rodeo is the contestants’ heartfelt desires to be good, even horses and bulls want to do. He brings 120-130 horses and 2 p.m., bull riders will take to the arena in a PRCA Pro - great, at something they love. 120-150 bulls, which he was raising before getting the Rodeo Xtreme Bulls event.

34 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 Nightly events include bareback and saddle broncs, Jackson Hole Rodeo dives into its debut with minia - calf and team roping, steer wrestling, breakaway roping, ture bull riding and mutton bustin’ every Saturday and barrel racing and bull riding, as well as a calf scramble for “ranch rodeos” every Wednesday for guest ranchers and the kids. The youngsters are friends. The youngsters’ also treated to trick-roping “calf scramble” is still on RODEO demonstrations, meeting bull - the marquee with bull rid - fighters, getting their face ing, saddle and bareback EVERY NIGHT • 8PM painted by rodeo clowns and broncs, team and calf rop - June | July | August more. All seating is covered, ing, barrels and breakaway with great views of the arena. roping. Four-D barrel rac - Cody Nite Rodeo tickets are $18 ing, a format very popular for adults, $8 for kids 7-12. with cowgirls, makes its Cody Stampede tickets range trial run. from $16-$24. All can be re - Jackson Hole Rodeo served by calling 1-800-207- kicks off with a flag-waving 0744, going online at grand entry at 8 p.m. www.codystampederodeo.com, Wednesdays, May 26 or at the Stampede Park on the through Sept. 1, and Satur - west side of Cody. days, May 29 through Sept. Jackson Hole Rodeo 4. Purchase tickets at the “Growing the future one arena office, online, at Flat buck at a time.” Creek Saddle, or the Boot That’s the motto of the all- Barn; $18 for reserved seat - new Jackson Hole Rodeo, with ing, $8 and $13 for general Phil Wilson’s experienced The bull rider and the bull compete for dominance. admission, plus tax. hands holding the reins and
guided by his dream of creating an unforgettable experi - Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a ranch ence in the traditions of western rodeo. hand and a writer for Pinedale’s Sublette Examiner . Wilson is used to building from scratch—he owns a construction company—and as Wyoming Cowboy Church founder, he is used to calling on his faith. And as Jackson Hole six generations of Wilsons can attest, Phil Wilson is born and bred from the hardy stock that brought homesteader Rodeo Sylvester Wilson over Teton Pass to settle his family in Jackson Hole more than a century ago. Family is the key.“All of my family is in on this. Every - body’s got a different chore,” Wilson said as he and son Buskin, a well-known bull rider since high school, tidied up around the rodeo arena on Snow King Drive in Jackson. “We’ve all been rodeoing, and to be rodeo contractors has been one of our dreams in life.” That includes sons Bodee (bucking horses), Brandon (web site), Buskin (bulls) and their wives Lisa, Amy, and Brandi (bookkeepers, ticket sellers, concession help). It also brings in nephews Jason Wheeldon (timed roping) and Trina (4D barrels), Shawn and Selena Wheeldon, sis - ter and brother-in-law Kim and Chancy Wheeldon, Wednesday & Saturday friends Jim and Dood Loose and their son Matthew, and plenty others with their own niches. ALL SUMMER “We want to make it a family and a community rodeo, Grand Entry at 8 p.m. 2010 XTREME BULLS so residents feel like it’s ‘their’ rodeo” said Wilson, re - Reserved Seating vealing that his dream is to make it part of the Jackson $19.50 TOUR STOP Hole lifestyle. General Admission July 5 at 2PM The new Jackson Hole Rodeo aims for the stars, liter - Adult $14, Children $8.50 ally, with renowned professional guest announcers and Family ticket (at the gate only) $42.50 STAMPEDE RODEOS top-of-the-line entertainment. Having the pros on hand (2 parents& their July 1–3 at 8PM & July 4 at 5PM makes each event sparkle through the dust, Wilson be - children under 18) lieves, making each rodeo“just a little more exciting.” For Tickets: He knows plenty about creating an excellent show. P.O. Box 1327 • 1031 12th Street Wilson’s been with the Wyoming High School Rodeo As - Cody, Wyoming 82414 sociation for 20 years, 12 as director and five as president codystampederodeo.com and chairman. codynightrodeo.com The new website, www.jacksonholerodeo.us, intro - 1-800-207-0744 • 307-587-5155 duces rodeo competitors and tracks the latest statistics. Tickets available End-of-season winners receive saddles.“Holiday” rodeos at the Gate or Online are on the calendar for Old West Days, the Fourth of July, www.TheJacksonRodeo.com Teton County Fair, and Labor Day Weekend. Phone: (307)733-7297

www. focusproductions. com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 35 The Plains Indian Powwow, a colorful, festive, rhythmic celebration CODY

WYOMING 82414 By Barbara Foote Colvert

Big in history, big in perspective, big in style, big in things to do indoors and outdoors, thatʼs Cody, Wyoming. s o t o

The town takes its name from found - h p l l a

ing father William Frederick “Buffalo d o o W

Bill” Cody—scout, marksman, hunter, b o B Pony Express Rider, world-renowned Old Trail Town on Cody’s outskirts: historic buildings, artifacts, and even a few famous gravesites Cody saw in this showman, and visionary. northwestern corner ofWyoming boundless opportunity ample, or nearby towns such as historic Meeteese and Red among them the final resting place for Jeremiah “Liver and invested all that he was and all that he earned to make Lodge, Powell and its Homesteader Museum, and Ralston, Eating” Johnson. Johnson, of course, was brought to the the region flower. And flower, it has, into a premier travel which celebrates an annual Rendezvous and Mule Days, big screen by Robert Redford. hub and vacation spot for families, history buffs, and con - are all accessed from Cody.And On the outskirts of town, vis - noisseurs of the great outdoors! at the park’s east gate sits Pa - itors and rodeoers alike gather for Yellowstone National Park, established in 1872 as the haska Teepee, where Buffalo Bill the famous Cody Nite Rodeo, world’s first national park, is a mere 52-miles east of entertained friends and digni - William Frederick where local and regional cow - Cody. The road from Cody toYellowstone is known today taries from around the world. Cody received the pokes perform every night as the Buffalo Bill Scenic Highway, and Teddy Roosevelt Old Trail Town, resting right throughout June, July, and Au - justifiably called it“the most scenic 50 miles in America.” on Cody’s original town site, Congressional Medal of gust. The Cody Stampede, held That it is, with guest ranches offering scenic trail rides hearkens back to a classicWest - four nights during Fourth of July through landscape also perfect for hiking or photo - ern era. Twenty-six weather- Honor for bringing the celebrations, features pro-rodeo graphing. Countless unique rock formations along the scarred buildings and over a West to the world. riders in world-class competition. byway wear historic names such as“Holy City” and“Old hundred horse-drawn con - No wonder Cody is known as the Woman and Her Cabin.” veyances transported from Rodeo Capital of the World! Cody lies in the heart of the Bighorn Basin, and a around the Big Horn Basin con - And speaking of our All- glance in any direction reveals plenty of other scenic tain thousands of artifacts from Indian trappers, frontier American holiday, a Cody 4th will dazzle young and old drives originating right from town. The Chief Joseph Sce - settlers, and cowboys who lived in the region from 1879- like none other, with three parades and a fabulous fire - nic Highway and the incomparable Beartooth Pass, for ex - 1901. Old Trail Town also harbors historic gravesites, works show at the close of four days of pure Western fun.

36 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 At the Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center (See story and sports center in case www.yellowstonecountry.org. The Cody Country Cham - photos on next page), just six miles from Cody, Buffalo the great outdoors (or ber of Commerce, Wyoming’s oldest, was founded at the Bill’s remarkable foresight is further revealed through his the trekkers them - turn of the 20th Century by George T. Beck—originally vision to bring water to the town and the region. The cen - selves) need a break . as a hunting club—and a group of enterprising Cody ter also recounts the dam’s construction and houses dis - For lodging in the business leaders, including Buffalo Bill himself. plays about the Big Horn Basin and surrounding areas. many excellent bed William Frederick Cody received the Congressional Nearby Buffalo Bill State Park is a destination all its own. and breakfasts, hotels Medal of Honor for bringing the West to the world. Visit But it’s Cody itself that really calls out to travelers. In and motels, and for Cody and see why!
the curve of Sheridan Avenue lies the Buffalo Bill Histori - details of a huge array Barbara Foote Colvert, a graphic designer, journal - cal Center, home to five separate museums encompassing of seasonal events ist, writer, and editor, has been an award-winning news - more than 300,000 square feet. The original Buffalo Bill throughout the year, paper lifestyle editor and columnist. Her books include Museum was erected on the current site of the Cody The BBHC houses an exten - contact: www.cody - Harvest of Hope–Family Farming and Farming Chamber of Commerce in 1917, just ten years after Cody’s sive collection of items, like chamber.org or Families and Resolutions. death at the age of 71. Moved to its current site with con - this massive grizzly bear. struction of the Whitney Gallery of Western Art in 1959, the BBHC also houses the Plains Indian Museum, the Cody Firearms Museum, and the Draper Museum of Nat - ural History. Take a break in the BBHC coffee shop or bistro, or peruse books, Native American jewelry, fine art prints, and other items of local interest in the gift shop. Museum visitors can relax knowing that a pass is good for a second day if they haven’t seen enough of what James Michener rightly called“The Smithsonian of the West.” The wide streets of “Downtown Cody,” lined with gal - leries and shops carrying Western art, photography, fur - niture, jewelry, clothing, keepsakes, and more, welcome

The spirit of Buffalo Bill seems to overtake you here in Cody, Wyoming. His sense of adventure will inspire

An Old West shootout, performed nightly out - you to ride horses and side the historic Irma Hotel in downtown Cody ride rapids. To hike, fi sh the tired, the hungry, and the curious.“Where’s the beef?” and holler at the rodeo. Cody’s range of fine restaurants will supply the answer, You’ll discover rustic and whet the appetite of even the most discerning palates. The historic Irma Hotel, built by Cody himself in shops, great food and an 1902 and named for his youngest daughter on the occa - American legend. Plan sion of her engagement, sits in the center of town. The famous cherry-wood bar is one of the most pho - your amazing trip at tographed sites in Cody, a gift from QueenVictoria to the yellowstonecountry.org famous showman. Outside the Irma, the Cody Gunfight - ers entertain visitors nightly throughout the summer 8 1-800-393-2639 8 season, reenacting famous gun battles and shootouts by Western characters you will recognize. To enjoy a historic overview of the town, hop aboard the Cody Trolley for a charming tour through Cody’s past and present. Relax listening to music in Cody City Park during the free summer concert series; book a trip on the Shoshone River for white-water thrills, or take off &LY INTO #ODY VIA $ELTA AND mountain biking, rock or ice climbing. 5NITED !IRLINES Cody also boasts a state-of-the-art aquatic and

www. yellowstoneadventureguide. com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 37 BULLALO BILL DAM Celebrates 100 years by Mike Calabrese

yth, history, and epic landscape draw In 1946 the dam was renamed in honor of visitors to Wyoming and the West. Countless Buffalo Bill, who even then knew the value of pMieces of dramatic geography, often adorned the West and perhaps its most coveted ele - with wildlife equally stunning, transfix all but ment: water. An American visionary, Cody re - the most jaded souls out here. It’s the stuff of alized that canals could never really supply dreams and longings, for young and old, and enough water to efficiently nurture settlement all of it is crafted by nature’s deft, patient hand. and growth in the region. He gave up on his Okay, maybe not all of it. own plan for an extensive canal system and In the heart of Colonel William F. Cody’s redirected his efforts and support to the con - r e

old haunt, in fact right on struction of the dam. t n some of Cody’s own land, While still reliably e C r o

one piece ofWyoming re - fulfilling its original pur - t In 1946 the dam i s i

flects nature and man at pose, the dam today V m

work together, albeit re - was renamed in draws thousands of ad - a D l l

luctantly. The Buffalo Bill mirers and recreation - i honor of Buffalo Bill, B o

Dam, fashioned from al - ists as well. Buffalo Bill l a f f

most 83,000 cubic yards State Park and the reser - u

who even then knew B

of concrete over five voir’s waters play host to y s e t

years, sits on the bed of the value of the West anglers, boaters, r u o

the Shosone River, in a campers, photographers, c o and perhaps its most t canyon carved by nature windsurfers, hikers, cy - o h over millions of years. coveted element: clists, and those simply P The spectacular un - seeking a breathtaking Dam construction, December 1908, two years before completion dertaking in the water. place to view the results Shoshone Canyon of nature’s and man’s claimed the lives of seven combined efforts. men during its construction, no small cost The visitor center is staffed and open when compared to the pittance (by today’s from May to September, affording visitors standards) of the project’s final bill: $929, 658. jaw-dropping views of both the dam and the At 353 feet high and 200 feet across, the im - river. A nonprofit enterprise, the center also pressive structure was the tallest of its kind offers travelers the chance to grab a cup of back in its early days, when it was known as coffee while viewing exhibits, enjoying a the Shoshone Dam. movie in its theater, or even purchasing tick - Power and water flowed from the dam, ets to Cody’s Nite Rodeo. The Buffalo Bill Dam

providing lifeblood to farmers, ranchers, and is designated a National Civil Engineering y o K

residents in the region upon its completion in Landmark and is listed on the National Reg - c M

1910. More than 93,000 acres of land in the ister of Historic Places. e d a

surrounding Bighorn Basin depend on the liq - For more information, visit the website at: W uid gold stored behind the dam for irrigation. www.bbdvc.com.
Windsurfing on Buffalo Bill Reservoir NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY • The finest live music acts in the region • Jazz, Swing, Rock, Country, Solos, Duos,Trios & Big Band • Impeccable references

Michael Calabrese • 307-733-5459 P.O. Box 289 • Wilson, WY 83014 E-mail: [email protected]

38 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 ALPINE

WYOMING 83128

by Mike Calabrese

A little over a half-hour from Jackson, the alpine community of, well, Alpine, has been quietly luring residents and travelers for years now. Something of a gate - way village, Alpine, Wyoming, boasts every square inch the

l jaw-dropping scenery of Jack - l a d o son Hole and pretty much all of o W b the same exhilarating recre - o B ational opportunities. Alpine, at the confluence of the Greys and Snake rivers, on the banks of the Palisades Reservoir What it doesn’t have, though, is the crush of equally impressive sources. Like the Snake and Salt rivers. regiment of resident Jackson workers who happily com - visitors who make their way into Grand Teton and Yel - But it might be the Greys River that really surprises.Acces - mute through the Snake River Canyon every day expect lowstone national parks. In other words, Alpine might be sible from right downtown, this beguiling, limpid waterway what residents in any western town do: restaurants, wa - the ideal spot to lay over in, before or after making that winds through a gorgeous valley tering holes, medical services, a push through the region’s high-profile parks. and is nearly paralleled by a good Anglers quickly warm to the community calendar that nour - Nestled at the mighty Snake River Canyon’s mouth, national forest roadway. The ishes a healthy social life, all the Alpine lies a stone’s skip away from pristine waters just Wyoming and the Salt River river’s accessibility and elements that knit together begging for families to cavort in and around. It’s Ranges hem the river’s idyllic set - prized trout population, mountain country towns. perched alongside the Snake, Greys, and Salt rivers, and ting and help explain its appeal to They’ve found it here in opens up onto the vast big-water playground known as campers and trekkers. Anglers while kayakers celebrate Alpine, Wyoming. And so can the Palisades Reservoir. quickly warm to the river’s accessi - the Greys’ early season anyone lucky enough to arrive at Campers, anglers, hikers, horseback riders, boaters, bility and prized trout population, sporting challenges. this not-so-hidden valley among kayakers, hunters—pretty much every type of outdoor while kayakers celebrate the Greys’ the stars. enthusiast who’s ever romped beneath the Tetons—know early season sporting challenges. For more info, go online at that this playground extends well into the Alpine, The town itself serves a diverse and demanding com - www. starvalleychamber.com for an introduction to Wyoming region. munity of natives and transplants alike. Both they and a Alpine and its offerings.
For years now, Jackson’s pricey real estate has nudged caravans of folks south along the Snake River to this BUFFALO MOUNTAIN charming area. Homesites can still be purchased here ALPINE ROD & REEL without taking on a debt service that might overwhelm ~ Fly Shop & Tackle Box ~ Furniture & Gallery average-family budgets. So critical is this bedroom com - Custom Rod Building • Rod & Reel Repair munity, that daily weekday buses shuttle workers and vis - Bamboo Rod Repair & Refenishing "Take a piece of Wyoming home." itors between Alpine and Jackson. New Custom Bamboo Rods Furniture Fine Art Photography Travelers, too, are picking up on Alpine’s amenities. Wood Bowls Clocks Jewelry & more Guns, Hunting The confluence of waters, geography, and accommoda - Ammo & Fishing tions in the community provide ample outlets for visitors and More Licenses to mountain country.

RVers, who often come up empty-handed in places Dave Lloyd- Owner & Builder • 56 Years Experience with shrinking or disappearing RV parks, have no trouble 185 HWY 89, Alpine WY • 307-654-FISH (3474) finding spots to tarry in or near Alpine. Just outside the email DLloyd @silverstar.com 185 Hwy 89, Suite E • Alpine • 307-654-0077 town, travelers can head up the Greys River road or wend their way around the reservoir or into the Snake River We have your perfect dream Canyon itself to camp, picnic, and recreate. home or investment property! The Palisades Reservoir, claiming 25 square miles of Full Hook-ups w/both water, 70 miles of shoreline, and year-round fishing, rests 30 and 50 amp service Pull-thrus • Large Tent Area right in a bonanza of mountain landscape. Of course, Free Wireless internet with this much water, one would expect nearby wetlands Showers • Laundry 38RV& and waterfowl viewing areas—just the like the one a few Beer, Wine & Package Liquors a large In walking distance of grocery miles south of town. The Palisades is home to native cut - stores, restaurants, tent area throat, browns, kokanee, and mackinaw, and because banking and Post Office Tiphany Gayhart, RESV/Associate Broker GRI Easy drive to Jackson Hole motorized craft are permitted on the lake, anglers can Off: (307)654-7725 185 HWY 89 D cover a lot of water. Greys River Cove RV Park Cell: (307)690-7701 PO Box 3689 Naturally, a reservoir this expansive would be fed by Tavern on the Greys Fax: (307)654-7726 Alpine WY 83128 25 Highway 89, Alpine, WY 307-880-2267 or 307-654-4667 [email protected] http://jacksonholejunction.com/

www. tetonadventureguide. com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 39 s o t o h p l l a d o o W b o B

Paragliding Jackson Hole Aerial Tram TETON VILLAGE

WYOMING 83025 Another popular option from the valley floor, hike up Teton Village is a destination unto it - and ride the tram down for free. self, complete with lodging and dining TANDEM PARAGLIDING FLIGHTS that ranges from four-star luxury to econ - Descend the mountain’s heights on a 20-minute tan - omy fare, and a wide array of resort ac - dem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding. Certified pi - lots with hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are tivities available as turnkey adventures or eager to introduce first-timers to the unique experience do-it-yourself excursions. Tucked up of tandem paragliding. against a 4,100-foot-tall mountain be - MOUNTAIN BIKING decked with forests, flowers, cliffs and Seven miles of super-fun single-track traverses the entire lower mountain, rolling and winding with the ski crags, laced with trams and gondolas, terrain (designed and built by year-round resort work - bordering Grand Teton National Park— ers—skiers). Start biking from the base area or purchase well, you get the picture. a lift ticket at NickWilson’s Café to transport your bike up

AERIAL TRAM The high-alpine tundra The same aerial tram that whisks skiers and snow - boarders up 4,139 vertical feet during ski season also car - abounds with hardy wildflow - ries summer vacationers on a round-trip journey into the high alpine landscape of flowers and granite. The ride ers and fascinating geological might include spotting a moose, deer, or even the occa - aspects, including fossils from sional black bear foraging on the mountainside. The sleek cabins, which carry 100 passengers in ski the ancient oceans that once season, easily accommodate 60 people in the summer, standing and seated. A complete bus tour can board the covered Jackson Hole. tram all at once. At the summit, take in the unrivaled 360-degree Climbing wall views of Jackson Hole, the Snake River, and Grand Teton Mountain is a great way to start a hike. The high-alpine National Park. Teewinot chairlift. Ride up to the summit of the Bridger tundra abounds with hardy wildflowers and fascinating High-altitude weather changes quickly from sunshine Gondola via Solitude Road. Downhill riding is not per - geological aspects, including fossils from the ancient to thunderstorms and vice versa, so pack a jacket, water, mitted above Amphitheater Bowl. Those who want to get oceans that once covered Jackson Hole. and sunscreen, even for a short walk. into tricks and jumps should check out the beginner ter - You can also choose to hike down the Mountain Trail, rain park on Eagles Rest. This is great for kids and novice HIKING a 7.2-mile trek, or head off the backside into Grand Teton riders—and it’s free. A tram ride to the 10,450-foot summit of Rendezvous National Park for an even longer day. Under construction now and opening in summer

40 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 2011, The Bike Park will include and science of Jackson Hole. Jun - about five miles of new trails ior trekkers hike, play sports, un - suitable for all skill levels. dertake science and arts projects, For a leisurely ride without and frolic in the water. automobiles, travel the Moose- Wilson pathway north to Grand BRIDGER GONDOLA & THE COULOIR Teton National Park or south all RESTAURANT the way to Wilson. With evening comes the Ask any resort employee for Bridger Gondola as it fires up to a summer trail map or more transport diners to the Couloir trail details. Restaurant. At 9,095 feet, the TRAIL RIDES contemporary and hip restau - Saddle up and experience a rant is nearly 3,000 feet above trail ride at the corrals on the east the valley floor and provides a side of the village. Head out on unique setting for evening cock - hourly trail rides astride a quality tails or dinner. The outdoor mountain horse in the company deck is a great place to gaze at of a real cowboy wrangler. Corbet’s Couloir and the soaring heights of the Headwall and DISC GOLF Tensleep Bowl. Play nine holes of Frisbee golf on the free course near the base SUMMERFEST of the resort. Bring your own EVENTS discs or buy them at one of the re - Throughout the summer sort’s many shops. Playing is free. Teton Village is home to many unique gatherings, some in the MOUNTAIN SPORTS new Village Commons with its SCHOOL pop-jet fountains, playground, The year-round Mountain and natural amphitheater where Sports School administers moun - free outdoor music events take tain biking, trail-orientation place July 18,August 1, 8, 15, and classes, and bungee-trampolin - September 5. See the Vista 360 ing. Additionally, they help oper - Children’s Mountain Cultures ate the summer yurt and private Bungee trampoline festival at the Father’s Day cele - adventure guide services. bration on June 20, the 16thAn - SLEEP IN A YURT nual Jackson Hole Wine Auction from June 23-26, the The modern Rock Springs yurt houses a wood-burn - Silver Collector Car Show andAuction on July 4 (complete ing stove, eight bunk beds, a kitchen, and a large dining with fireworks at dusk), the Art and Antique show from table. A 2.5-mile hike up a trail that gains 1,400 feet in el - July 9-11 andAugust 27-29, theArt Show from July 24-26 evation gets you there, and then your only responsibilities andAugust 20-22, and the Logan-to-Jackson bike race fin - COMEANDSTAYWITHUS. are enjoying the scenery and your friends. Expert guides ish on September 11. Enjoy a comfortable, pleasant and inexpensive cook the food, stoke the stove, and even do the dishes. stay in Teton Village at the base of the GRAND TETON MUSIC FESTIVAL Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Witness epic orchestra performances by musicians KIDS’ RANCH 1 or 2 Persons: $69—$79 per night per room The Kids’ Ranch operates June 15-August 31, right from some of the finest orchestras in the world, including 3 or 4 Persons: $79—$89 per night per room next to the Bridger Gondola, and is well equipped with principal players from the world-famous Chicago, San Rates vary from high to low seasons. staff and facilities to handle wee ones from as young as Francisco, Houston, Pittsburgh,Atlanta, and Detroit sym - Shared Bunkroomsavailable six months old. phonies. Conducted by Donald Runnicles, the summer Box 583, TetonVillage, WY 83025 schedule begins July 1. 307-733-3415 • FAX: 307-739-1142 Licensed day-care providers lead youngsters on adven - http://www.thehostel.us tures in TetonVillage while focusing on the nature, history, —Mountain Country Adventure Guide email:[email protected]

SEIZE THE TETON VILLAGE DAYS OF SUMMER! A mecca of wildflowers, wildlife and mountain scenery interspersed with a wonderful sampling of lodging, restaurants, spas, activities and entertainment. Whether you stay for just the day or a week, there is plenty of relaxation and adventure to enjoy for everyone. Pick up your free copy of The Village Mix in any of the businesses in Teton Village or visit www.gotetonvillage.com

www. tetonadventureguide. com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 41 The town of Jackson sits adjacent to the National Elk Refuge, Snow King Mountain and Cache Creek, and East Gros Ventre Butte (right). JACKSON

WYOMING, 83001

y by Joseph Piccoli t e i c o Scarcely 150 years ago, Jackson Hole was home—in S l T a here are more than a few old- summer and fall only—to small bands of NativeAmer - c i r o icans and a handful of fur trappers. t timers who say their community dis - s i

H Later, the trappers and Indians were replaced by e l appeared along with the sign. o homesteaders who managed to endure here while rais - H n “Howdy Stranger, Yonder is Jack - ing beef cattle and cultivating what few crops could ma - o s k

c ture during a growing season that—in a really good a son Hole, the Last of the Old West,” J year—might be as long as three months. y s

e said the 1930s wooden sign on t It was a tough life and it truly was a slice of the Old r u o West. But Jackson Hole’s future (“hole” was trapper c Teton Pass, its cowboy fashioned o t slang for a mountain valley) was determined when o h after Jackson Mayor Harry Clissold.

P those homesteaders realized that dudes (rancher slang Pretty much everybody was a cow - for summer tourists) were easier to keep than cattle. This 1930s sign welcoming travelers on Teton Pass was removed in 1973, dilapidated by age. Jackson boy back then. There are still many dude ranches in the valley, and Mayor Harry Clissold posed for the drawing of the Times sure have changed. There’re a few real cow - although you can still saddle up a horse and ride off into cowboy. A replica created by Bob Rudd in 2000 boys left, but Jackson Hole has become a place where the sunset while staying at one, you will have choices now stands in its place. an “old-timer” is anyone who has lived in the valley that would befuddle a trapper: will it be a horseback longer than you. The sign is back, though, recreated by (Below) Town Square with its stagecoach, board - ride today, or tennis? Or perhaps a round of golf? walks, and elk antler arches, is officially named Bob Rudd and the Rotary Club in the year 2000. Jackson Hole is now a year-round vacation destina - George Washington Memorial Park. Jackson’s history began before the cowboy, of course. tion. The town of Jackson is a gateway to Yellowstone s o t o h p l l a d o o W b o B

42 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 and Grand Teton national parks, to national forests, and to not want to lose the contact with friends and neighbors af - Grand Teton parks) where travel on foot or by horseback wilderness areas. Visitors hike, bike, ride horseback, fish, forded by regular excursions to pick up their mail. is the only travel possible. climb mountains, marvel at the geysers of Yellowstone, The Postal Service dropped its plans for home deliv - For many people, the realWest is found in those places and gape at the stunning Teton mountains. ery of the mail and even after opening a large post office where the impact of humans is least in evidence. In Jack - They attend symphony orchestra concerts and browse in west Jackson a few years ago, it bowed to public pres - son Hole, those places can be found in literally every di - through art galleries and museums by the dozen. sure and kept the“old” downtown post office open. rection. From the Jackson Town Square, the hub of urban So if the wide-open spaces of the OldWest really were Probably the most important thing about Jackson’s life in the valley, you can reach a roadless wilderness in populated by cowboys and bad guys, by schoolmarms and Western heritage, and the thing that has remained un - less time than it takes a person to reach a shopping mall shady ladies, clearly much of the Old West really has changed, is its location. Sure, this is Wyoming, the state in most American cities. packed up and pulled out of town. with license plates that feature a picture of a cowboy on a So as glitzy as Jackson may seem to some, you’ll never Not all of it is gone, however, and not all of what’s left bucking bronco. But Jackson is also surrounded by some be far from its roots—nor from the real West.
is simply a show put on for the 30,000 or so visitors who of the most spectacular and unspoiled lands in the West. Joseph Piccoli is a writer and editor living in crowd the streets of downtown Jackson on an average There are millions of acres surrounding Jackson (in Jackson Hole. summer day. wilderness areas and the backcountry ofYellowstone and

The Jackson Hole Playhouse entertains nightly with live theater and dinner to boot. Take the Shootout for example. A bunch of locals don classicWestern wear every night at 6:00 p.m. (except Sun - day) from Memorial Day to Labor Day, head down to the Town Square, and pretend to shoot each other. In the best spaghetti-Western tradition there’s a bit of corny melo -

The Shootout is a labor of love for locals who turn out in historically accurate costumes that really are too valuable to be worn while rolling around on the street. drama performed to set the scene, then guns blaze and the street is suddenly strewn with bodies. After a moment, the bodies stir, then stand and dust themselves off. The tourists think it’s great and you might think the event is pure Chamber of Commerce booster - ism. But for the locals who produce the show it is a labor of love. Many have performed every summer for years and turn out in historically accurate costumes that really are too valuable to be worn while rolling around on the street. Another example is the wooden sidewalks in the downtown area. One woman I know (she’s a“local”) says she likes them because they give her a great reason not to wear high heels. Jackson, after all, retains enough of its Western heritage that you’ll see folks wearing blue jeans at even the most formal events. Some of what keeps Jackson a real Western town is simply the stuff of small towns everywhere. A while back the U.S. Postal Service tried to introduce home delivery of mail to Jackson. Residents objected because they did

www. tetonadventureguide. com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 43 t r o s e R e e h g r a T d n a r G y s e t r u o c s o t o h P Bikers and hikers on Fred’s Mountain soak in the views of Peaked Peak (right) and the massive Teton Range stretching into the distance. GRAND TARGHEE

WYOMING 83414

High on the western slope of the Teton Range, hidden among forests of spruce, fir, pine, and aspen, sits Grand Targhee, a full-service, year-round re - sort. Over 2,500 acres of perfect ter - rain for hiking, biking, horse-riding, music festivals, and, of course, skiing, lie upon two mountain peaks that stretch upward from the quaint West - ern village. And from the top of those peaks, the rugged Tetons seem close enough to reach out and touch.

SCENIC CHAIRLIFT RIDE For the best Teton views possible anywhere, without breaking a sweat, that is, ride the Dreamcatcher chairlift to the 9,862-foot summit of Fred’s Mountain. Use the lift for Targhee’s base-area plaza holds all the services needed for mountainside comfort. sight seeing or as a jump-start to a spectacular, high-alti - old-fashioned way. Aside from walking, riding a horse is sport, Grand Targhee Resort is gaining traction as a tude hike. Take your bike up the lift, too—as long as it’s the only way to tour the Jedediah Smith Wilderness Area renowned mountain bike destination. the downhill variety. Learn about these special bikes and within the Teton Range.And horses can take you a lot far - Check out a variety of mountain bike events through - trails at Targhee’s bike shop, Teton Mountain Outfitters. ther than your own two feet. out the summer, including the annualWydaho Bike Race, a Three-Race Downhill Series, and the Pierre’s Hole HORSEBACK TRAIL RIDES MOUNTAIN BIKE 50/100. Test the latest two-wheel technology on June 26- A good horse is still the best companion—and the Spectacular single-track trails wind through wild - 27 during mountain bike demo days. best mode of travel—for a long tour through these moun - flower-draped meadows near the village, and miles of tains. The local cowboys at Crooked Canyon Stables can technical lift-serviced downhill trails drop from the sum - HIKE saddle up a good steed and show you these mountains the mit. Staying abreast of the growing enthusiasm for this Hikes from 30 minutes to several hours—to days,

44 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 weeks, or months for that mat - Kimock’s Crazy Engine, Grace ter—start from the village. Potter and the Nocturnals, David Guided hikes are available, too. Lindley, andAlejandro Escovedo. Food, games, and on-site activi - CLIMBING WALL ties are all a part of this summer The fun and challenge of music festival. Tent camping on - sport climbing is at your finger - site is available during the festi - tips at Grand Targhee. Coached by val weekend. Take advantage of the experienced staff, participants the free shuttle service and leave may climb six different routes on your vehicle in Driggs. an artificial climbing wall. 23RD ANNUAL DISC GOLF Disc golf, a perfect activity TARGHEE BLUE - GRASS FESTIVAL for the whole family, is free to all From Friday to Sunday, Aug. Targhee guests. An 18-hole disc 13-15, check out the granddaddy golf course begins at the base of of northern Rockies bluegrass the mountain and meanders festivals. Musicians, some leg - through its lower reaches. Rent endary, return every year. See discs at the Activity Center, Bela Fleck, Bearfoot, Edgar where score cards and maps are Meyer and Zakir Hussain, Johnny Lang ripping at Targhee in ‘09 also available. An annual Disc Brother Mule, Fishing Music, Golf Tournament is held late July. Keller Williams and the Keels, Mollie O’Brien and Rich NATURALIST PROGRAMS Moore, Punch Brothers—featuring Chris Thile, Sam Bush Start your Rocky Mountain journey at the Naturalist Band, Crooked Stills, and Sarah Jarosz. Center located just off the plaza and get a feel for what LODGING critters and plants you may find here. From moose to pine Three Western-style lodges are located in the alpine martin, from lupine to forget-me-not, feast your eyes, ears, village. A wide range of condominiums, vacation homes, and nose on nature’s purest assemblage in the Lower 48— and town homes are available a and know a little more about it. short distance from the resort. SPA Spectacular single-track DINING Bring balance and harmony With four restaurants to to your body and spirit in The trails wind through wild - choose from at Grand Targhee, Spa at Grand Targhee. Get a tra - flower-draped meadows near you won’t go hungry—no mat - ditional relaxation Swedish ter what time it is. The Branding massage. Or splurge on a Teton the village, and miles of tech - Iron Grill is the resort’s signature Body Polish, a full-body exfolia - dining experience with house tion scrub with salts and essen - nical lift-serviced downhill specialties to suit any persuasion. tial oils. Follow that with a warm trails drop from the summit. The Trap Bar, an après-ski insti - steam shower or a therapeutic tution for 40 years, serves pub bath treatment. That should do fare along with live entertain - the trick! Or, simply go for a ment and eight flat screen televi - swim in the heated outdoor pool, or a dip in the hot tub. sions for sports days. Wild Bill’s Grill offers fresh-tossed 6TH ANNUAL TARGHEE MUSIC FEST pizza, burgers, and south-of-the-border creations, and From Friday to Sunday, July 16-18, an eclectic gather - Snorkels is a breakfast favorite boasting freshly baked ing of bands perform in a natural outdoor amphitheater pastries, specialty coffees, omelets, and burritos.
adjacent to Targhee’s base-area plaza. Catch performances — Mountain Country Adventure Guide by Keb Moe, Spearhead, Los Lobos, Shawn Colvin, Steve s o t o h p y o K c M e d a W

Targhee music festivals attract music lovers from across the country.

www. tetonadventureguide. com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 45 Fremont Peak, thought to be Wyoming’s tallest by its namesake explorer, stands vigil over Island Lake in Titcomb Basin near Pinedale. PINEDALE

WYOMING 82941 by Julianne Couch Photos by Fred Pflughoft P Home to roughly 1,500 people, Pinedale rests at an el - inedale might be the perfect evation of 7,100 feet and snuggles up against the pristine Wyoming town. Plenty to do without Wind River Mountains. It’s only 78 miles from Jackson being overrun with tourists. Easily ac - Hole and 130 miles from Yellowstone National Park. Pinedale’s backyard encompasses the Wind River Moun - cessible but not plastered with too tains, the Bridger-Teton National Forest, and the Bridger much pavement. Home to iconic cattle Wilderness. The Wilderness itself contains 15 of herds but also to colorful wildlife, and Wyoming’s 16 highest peaks, including Gannett Peak— Wyoming’s highest at 13,804 feet—and hundreds of miles lodged right up against record-setting of trails, streams, and forest. There are also some 1,300 trout streams and fishing lakes. In lakes, and hundreds of miles of hiking trails and fishing short, Pinedale is a great place to streams in the Bridger Wilderness. spend a sunny afternoon sitting on a Fremont, Half Moon, and other local lakes—as well as the Green River—offer recreationists world-class fish - bench along a wooden sidewalk, ing and boating. Fremont Lake is Wyoming’s second watching the world go by, and an ideal largest natural lake. At 9 miles long, a mile wide, and 607 Hundreds of lakes, many teeming with beauti - setting for a rewarding vacation in feet deep, the lake is the seventh-deepest in the continen - ful trout, dot the Wind River Range. tal United States. One of its most coveted treasures is mountains and forests.

46 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 mackinaw trout. Half Moon, Willow, and Boulder lakes may choose to stick closer to town, though, and take an are also great fishing spots, and Half Moon’s marina is auto tour of the many historic sites in the area, clearly both a gateway and a haven boaters. marked on state maps and complete with on-site histor - The Green River is, of course, one of Wyoming’s pre - ical markers. The LODGE mier trout waterways. It originates in the Green River Pinedale claims a rich history as a center for farming AT PINEDALE Lakes, not far from Gannett Peak, and flows for 730 miles and ranching, its inviting pasture land long a lure to live - • Indoor Pool & Jacuzzi stock and their caretakers. In • Free Continental Breakfast fact, both sheepmen and cattle - • Free High-Speed Internet men found the valley so enticing • Refrigerator and microwave in every room that in 1902 a battle broke out • Located minutes from White Pine Ski Area between the groups vying for 307-367-8800 the same territory. When a large Locally Owned & Managed flock of grazing sheep looked up West Hwy 191 in Pinedale • 1054 W. Pine St. Pinedale, WY 82941 to find themselves munching Reservations 1-866-995-6343 vegetation on land claimed by cattlemen, the stage was set for trouble.As a result of that trans - o t o gression, a band of 150 masked h p

l men raided the sheep camps, l a d killing a herder and clubbing to o o

W death 2,000 sheep. The rest of b o the sheep, and their herders, left B for other grazing land. Fremont Lake—vast, deep, and named for explorer John C. Fremont Today folks are a little more BEST PIZZA IN WYOMING! before draining into Utah’s Colorado River. tolerant of differences in Sublette County and in For those who’d rather not venture into Pinedale’s vast Pinedale. Hunters, ranchers, anglers, hikers, horsemen, Homemade Dough & Sauces backyard, there’s plenty to do right in town: sports, arts, businessmen, artists, and tourists all seem to get along Dine-in, Pick-up, Delivery, Take-n-Bake history, nature, dining, dancing, something for just about just fine in this town that has something for everyone. any visitor.
SANDWICHES • SALADS • PASTAS Summer fun in Pinedale begins in May with the an - Julianne Couch is a freelance writer living in 307-367-6760 nual opening of the Museum of the Mountain Man (see Laramie, Wyoming. • 4 Country Club Lane Pinedale, WY • next page). Perched high on a hill overlooking the town, it offers outstanding art collections and an extensive re - search library ofWestern history. The museum sheds light on both local history and the life and times of the moun - tain men who rendezvoused in the Green River valley. Jim Bridger, Kit Carson, William Sublette and other hearty souls all sought beaver for the fur trade but along the way also discovered the beauty and mysteries of the Rocky Mountains. On six occasions, between 1824 and 1840, mountain men gathered just outside of what would in the late 1870s become Pinedale. They enjoyed days, some - times weeks, of good times and pelt trading with one an - 31 S. Sublette Ave. other and the local natives. Nowadays when folks echo the call of the mountain Pinedale, WY men to “Meet me at the Green,” they’re referring to the Green River Rendezvous Days and Pageant. The pageant has been held annually on the second weekend of July 307-367-3667 since 1936. Rendezvous Days, July 8-11, perpetuates the spirit of the original rendezvous with a host of activities, including rodeos, art shows, period crafts, a Trader’s Row, Located at the Phillips 66 historic demonstrations, and special exhibits and events at the Museum of the Mountain Man. on the South end of Even after the modern-day mountain men and Pinedale. women pack up their powder, visitors can still enjoy golf - EAT HERE! GET GAS! ing, shopping, dining, or visiting art galleries. The summer calendar is loaded with many other Open 5amto 10pmDaily events, including a town picnic and fireworks for the 4th (307)367-6717 of July, golf tournaments, boat regattas, rodeos, a county fair, and lots of traditional family-fun events. • Breakfast selections • Freshhotcoffee • Subs • Burgers• On the way out of town, travelers can course along the • Sandwiches • Salads • Fresh-Cut Meats • Centennial Scenic Byway, which officially begins just out - side of Pinedale. Along the route the kids and crew can Lunch& Dinner Specials Daily. GREAT Pizza, served all day! scan for elk, moose, deer, antelope, bears, wolves, and • Propane • Ice • ATM • plenty of small mammals and other creatures that inhabit the deep forest and, sometimes, the roadways. Some folks PINEDALE’S LARGEST SELECTION OF DELI MEATS & CHEESES

www. focusproductions. com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 47 GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS AND MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN

By Mike Calabrese

Only the term “mountain man” can match that of “cowboy” for the wealth of color and lore associated with the “winning of the West.” Cowboys, of course, roamed pretty much every - m o where west of the Mississippi and c . e n i have outlived even their almost mythi - l n O

cal epoch of the late 1800s. But moun - e l a d

tain men, who made do with less (after e n i all, cowboys always had their horses P , t s i and cattle), pretty much went the way r h c l of the beaver hat by the late 1850s. i G t n i l C y b s o t o h P The Green River Rendezvous Pageant portrays historic events from over 170 years ago. For every Bat Masterson, Bill Hickok, and honoring him. Fitting, then, that a .40 caliber Wyatt Earp, there’s an equally notable moun - half-stock rifle of his should end up in the re - tain man. John C. Fremont and William Sub - gion’s most famous collection of mountain lette are namesakes to a couple of Wyoming man history and memorabilia—the Museum counties and mountain peaks. Jedediah Smith of the Mountain Man in Pinedale, Wyoming. and Kit Carson have certainly garnered Even more fitting, the museum is situated enough press to earn their places in popular on a hill not far from the site of the original Western culture. And mountain man Jim Green River Rendezvous, held in 1833 in the Bridger is so revered around here that visitors “Valley of the Green.” Over 3,000 Indians, to Wyoming will find no fewer than 21 places hundreds of mountain men, fur trappers, and m missionaries assembled there to barter and o c . trade their goods. The cry “Meet me on the e n i l Green!” was a reminder and a reassurance to n

O early trappers, who spent long and isolated e l a

d winters gathering beaver pelts, and to traders e n i who traveled countless miles on hazardous, P , t often life-threatening trails. These rendezvous s i r sometimes lasted for months. Time enough to h c l i get supplies, renew friendships, swap stories, G t

n trade, tipple and, naturally, debauch. Of the i l

C 16 rendezvous held during the height of the Rocky Mountain fur trade, six were located in the Green River Valley. Exhibits at the museum provide a good starting point for visitors heading to the 75th

Of the 16 rendezvous held A tipi village and the towering Wind River Mountain Range are part of the setting for the pageant.

during the height of the over 200 members of the community per - The museum also colorfully showcases west - Rocky Mountain fur trade, form in original costumes, is set for Sunday, ern wildlife, Indians, fur trapping, wagon July 11, at 1 p.m. on the Pinedale Rodeo trains, mountain men, and bison in its six were located in the Grounds. For more information visit the 15,000-square-foot facility. Green River Valley. Green River Rendezvous Pageant Associa - The Museum of the Mountain Man is open tion’s website at meetmeonthegreen.com or daily from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m., through Sep - call (307) 367-2242. tember 30. Admission fees are $5 for adults, Annual Green River Rendezvous, a re-cre - The museum captures the ways and lore $4 for seniors, and $3 for kids 6-12 years old. ation of those original mountain man gather - of these hardy individuals. Clothing, arti - For more information call toll free (877) 686- ings. This year’s rendezvous is again replete facts, mounted animals, even the Chief 6266 or go online at museumofthemountain - with activities for the entire family and runs American Horse Warrior Society tipi help man.com.
July 8-11. The Rendezvous Pageant, where bring the days of the mountain man alive. 75th Annual Green River Rendezvous Thursday Main Events... July 8 – • Vendor Street Fair Sunday July 11, Pinedale, Wyoming • Rendezvous Rodeo • Green River Rendezvous Pageant 2010 • Sublette County Library “Book Sale” Pinedale, • “Spirit of the Winds” Fireworks Show Wyoming Book one of our year-round • Museum of the Mountain Man adventure packages today. These • 3-on-3 Basketball Tournament include, float trips, horseback riding, fishing, rodeo, golf, romance, • Sublette County Library : 4-wheeling, snow machining Capitol Christmas Tree Sublette County and many more. Ornament-Making Event Chamber of Please call or go online for more information • Rendezvous Parade Commerce www.pinedalesuites.hamptoninn.com • Kid’s Fishing Derby 307-367-2242 888-285-7282 West Side of Pinedale • Trader’s Row 19 East Pine St. 55 Bloomfield Ave PO Box 176 !

• Live Music e n i l

n Pinedale, WY82941 Pinedale, Wyoming 82941 O e l a d

e GreenRiver n i P t a h c

307-367-6700 o Rendezvous l l u C c M Pageant m a P f o y

s Association e t r u o C o t o h

www.museumofthemountainman.com www.sublettecountylibrary.org P Pinedale Traders www.meetmeonthegreen.com www.sublettechamber.com

www. focusproductions. com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 49 YELLOWSTONE GATEWAY COMMUNITIES by Mike Calabrese

Gateway towns traditionally play second fiddle to the regions and attractions that lie just beyond them. Not in Mountain Country. Joining well-known Jackson and Cody, these two towns boast an ap - peal all their own. Dubois and West Yellowstone harbor compelling landscapes, rich histories, and endless outlets for recreation or relaxation. These gateway communities hail visitors to tarry a bit be - fore dropping into those ultimate destinations. The tie hacks of old Dubois and the first tourists shuttled through West Yellowstone were all yearn - ing for a place calling out to them. These gateways did just that—and they still do . The rivers of Yellowstone Park, near West Yellowstone, are an anglers delight.

West Yellowstone rests comfortably at Watch for the Smoke Jumper program, fly- 6,666 feet, its air clean and refresh - casting clinics, the Mountain Bike ing—and welcoming. The town’s WEST YELLOWSTONE Biathalon, The Janet Clarkson Me - broad streets, passel of restaurants, diverse morial Triathlon, and the opening of fish - shops, and tree-hemmed lodging could be the start of one WYOMING 59758 ing on the park’s inimitable Firehole River. July, of course, great venture into Yellowstone National Park itself. black bears, 10,000 thermal features, roughly 200 geysers starts with the usual bang and festivities on the 4th, while West, as locals call it, is the perfect place to begin and 41 waterfalls, and at 2,221,766 acres, enough land to August plays host to the 40th Annual Yellowstone Rod preparing for that journey into the park. Bookstores stock - apply for United Nations membership. Run, the 6thAnnual SmokingWaters Rendezvous, and the ing an amazing array of regional history, angling, and Blazing hot days and brisk, cool nights endured in Yellowstone Historic Center Ball. photography tomes also provide a sanctuary to relax in cars, tents, or on the trails demand a certain amount of Topping it all off, the West in WestYellowstone is cele - before—or after—a park foray. Gift shops, microbrew - preparedness from Yellowstone’s visitors. Weather ex - brated by that most Western of traditions, rodeo. Cow - eries, delis, pizzerias, bike and outdoor-gear rental out - tremes move in and out of the area like goldfish darting pokes compete every weekend, from June throughAugust, lets, angling shops, clothing enterprises, restaurants, around in an aquarium. The nights can carry both the in the arena just a few miles outside of town. Visit sandwich counters, bars, grocery stores, all of them in haunting howling of wolves and coyotes (yep, even in www.yellowstonerodeo.com for details. West are prepared to help the weary—and at times town) and the daunting chill of quick temperature drops. For more information, visit West’s chamber site at stymied—traveler. West’s summer calendar is loaded with gatherings and a www.westyellowstonechamber.com. Or call the chamber West itself butts right up against a park that is home mind-boggling menu of festivities that beckon visitors. at 406-646-7701.
to 300 miles of roads, six types of ungulates, grizzly and June pretty much kicks off the region’s summer season.

DUBOIS

WYOMING 82513 A small town in big country, Dubois, Wyoming, is about an hour’s drive from Jackson (to the west) and s

Riverton (to the east). This little gem of a town is bordered o t o by geography unarguably second to none. h p l l

Set in the upperWind River valley, the town is framed a d o

by Butch Cassidy’s haunting Dubois Badlands to the east, o W

the stark Absaroka Range to the north, and the majestic b o

Wind River Range to the south. B A stroll down the main street, most of it still appointed The Absaroka Mountains lie north of Dubois and tower over Torrey Lake. with boardwalks, yields a taste ofWyoming’s OldWest fla - nearly 800 miles of trails lacing the range’s vast, stunning Whiskey Mountain Wildlife Habitat Area, just minutes vor. Log buildings, saloons, quaint shops, and even tipis beauty. Over 150 glaciers work theWinds, beckoning hik - from town, is home to North America’s largest wintering welcome the travel-weary visitor. ers and climbers alike. The Winds are studded with lakes herd of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. And the National The nearby Wind River Range, revered by Native and creeks, themselves teeming with rainbow, cutthroat, Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, in downtown Dubois, Americans for years before the white man’s arrival, is re - golden, brook, German brown, and mackinaw trout. An - provides an awe-inspiring venue for the country’s most plete with colorful history and wildlife. Shoshone and glers should come well supplied and ready to reel. And impressive display of these noble creatures. Sheepeater Indians traveled and hunted throughout this much of the wildlife thatYellowstone visitors can spy also Dubois is not some sleepy littleWyoming town scram - range, which borders the 2.2-million-acre Wind River roams the Winds. bling for tourist bait. Dubois is that little diamond door - Reservation, today home to Northern Arapaho and East - One of the world’s most magnificent big game ani - way into the historic past and today’s great outdoors. ern Shoshone tribes. mals, the Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep, is showcased Want to know more? Call: 307-455-2556.
Backpackers and hikers to theWinds can choose from in the Dubois area, both indoors and outdoors. The

50 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 LODGING DIRECTORY Looking south over Jackson Hole and Grand Teton National Park; photo Bob Woodall

Grand Targhee Resort Grand Targhee offers convenient, comfort- ExperienceJackson true Western Hole hospitality Super in the heart 8 of able, and flexible lodging both on-mountain Jackson Hole. Just steps away from the free city and in Teton Valley. Whether you desire to bus, river rafting, and other recreation. Compli- be at the Resort or on Ski Hill Road you have mentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless immediate access to the area’s summer ad- internet, microwave/refrigerator,cable TV with HBO ventures including mountain biking, horse- and free local calls. Custom packages & group back riding, rafting, fly fishing, and much rates. more. 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, WY 83001 Alta, Wyoming 83414 800-800-8000 / 307-733-6833 1-800-TARGHEE 307-353-2300 www.jacksonholesuper8.com www.GrandTarghee.com [email protected]

Lakeside Lodge Resort Located on the shore of Fremont Lake 4-miles Motel 6Two Resort miles from historic in Jackson town square, 1 block from north of Pinedale. Western hospitality, privacy free bus shuttle, Next toKmart shopping center & informal comfort surrounded by pristine with shops and restaurants. All guest rooms were wilderness. The resort includes a main lodge & completely remodeled spring 2009. Guest rooms restaurant, deluxe log cabins, and marina with surround a park like setting for picnics and our boat rentals. A perfect location for meetings, con- swimming pool. Guest laundries, free local calls, ventions, family reunions, receptions, training free morning coffee,WIFI access & expanded sessions or any large group function. cable. Pet friendly & kids under 18 stay free 600 So. Hwy 89, Jackson, Wy 83001 Pinedale, Wyoming 82941 307-733-1620 Fax: 307-734-9175 877-755-LAKE / 307-367-2221 Reservations Number 1-800-466-8356 www.LakesideLodge.com www.motel6.com

Mountain PropertyWe offera wide Management selection of Jackson Hole lodging, LocatedPainted just three BuffaloInn blocks from the Town featuring vacation rental homes, condos and cab- Square, the Painted Buffalo Inn offerscon- ins to suit all tastes and budgets. A broad selection venient, comfortable accommodationsin the of properties cater to the diverse requirements of heart of Jackson. Within walking distance, visitors. Rentals range in size from one-bedroom you will find streets lined with restaurants, condos to custom luxury mountain estates. Many shops, and galleries. Once here, our knowl- properties are located minutes from Jackson Hole edgeable staff will help to ensure an enjoy- Mountain Resort, Grand Teton National Park or the able vacation for you and your family. southern entrance to Yellowstone National Park. 400 West Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001 Jackson, Wyoming 83001 800-288-3866 / 307-733-4340 1-800-992-9948 307-733-1648 www.paintedbuffaloinn.com www.mpmjh.com [email protected] e l r g d ib e ri m e s t f o r d l a s n e o s a lu o n e e R s c o u c C m R e LODGING INDEX /B n P a e c y s — o n c t I S e A l s e o i c n t g r d v R A a s in / F p n e a e r a b a e tn g c t u f m u e ic ri i w in la e s HOTELS ~MOTELS Rates Based on ta k m T k d F /F ro t p rn te s a i t o n t a c e e e i e re w o m a e p i e ir t u LODGES ~RESORTS Double Occupancy R B S H S H P S M M F In S Grand Targhee Resort $$-$$$ • • • • • • • • • Jackson Hole Super 8 $$ • • • • • Lakeside Lodge & Marina $$ • • • • • • Motel 6 $••••• Mountain Property Management $$-$$$ • • • • Painted Buffalo Inn $$ • • • • • • • •

($) Cost Per Night upto $100; ($$) Cost Per Night upto $250; ($$$) Cost Per Night over $250

www. focusproductions. com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 51 A CTIVITIES–BUSINESSES–SERVICES ACCOMMODATIONS & RV PARKS JC JEWELERS Jackson's premier fine jewelry store. Specializing in Jenny Lake & Teton Village. Beginner to Advanced. Climb Grand custom designs in bridal and fine colored stone jewelry using eco- Teton & other peaks. One-day climbs. Families & groups. ALPINE, WYOMING friendly precious metals and gems. Known for integrity, knowledge, Reservations:307 733-2297. pg 31 GREYS RIVER COVE RV PARK Just 35 miles south of Jackson Hole and creativity. PG 13 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968 Offering guided through the Snake River Canyon. 38 full RV hook-ups & a large tent TETON VILLAGE Throughout the summer season Teton Village climbs and rock climbing instruction in the Tetons, Winds, area, in walking distance of grocery stores, restaurants, bank & P.O., hosts several art and antique shows. For a list pick up the Free Beartooths, Red Rocks, Moab & Indian Creek and City of Rocks. 800- showers, laundry, free wireless internet. 25 Highway 89, 307-880- Village Mix brochure or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or 239-7642 www.jhmg.com pg 29 2267 or 307-654-4667 pg 39 call 1-866-749-4077 pg 41 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT CLIMBING WALL A variety CODY, WYOMING P INEDALE, WYOMING of climbs from easy to complex. pg 41 BUFFALO BILL’S CODY/YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY Information cen- THE BARN DOOR Unique furnishings, antiques, gifts & accessories P INEDALE, WYOMING ter, 836 Sheridan Av., 800-393-2639 www.yellowstonecountry.org pg 37 for the home. Don’t miss this special diamond in the rough. 31 SUBLETTE COUNTY Hiking & climbing in the Wind River & DUBOIS, WYOMING South Sublette Av. 307-367-3667, barndoordesign.com pg 47 Wyoming Ranges.MountainManCountry.com pg 47 TRIANGLE C RANCH 3-6 day traditional summer dude ranch vacations with programs for the whole family. (800) 661-4928 or 307- 455-2225 AUTO, TRUCK & RV SERVICES CLOTHING-OUTDOOR GEAR & APPAREL GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING TIRES—BRAKES—ALIGNMENT—OIL CHANGE DUBOIS, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casual all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Take a scenic chairlift to the wear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books, summit, experience downhill and cross-country mountain biking or BIG 0 TIRES Featuring famous Big O Brand Tires. Bigfoot tires for GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend. horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800- all your SUV and 4x4 needs. Computer alignment, complete brake ....where outdoor adventures begin. www.windrivergearshop.com, TARGHEE pg 45 & 51 service, shocks, struts & wheels, express oil change. Best tire warran- 19 N. First St., 307-455-3468, pg 29 ty in the business. 90-day financing available. www.bigotires.com. JACKSON, WYOMING Next to K-Mart & Motel 6, 530 S. Hwy 89, 307-733-8325 pg 21 JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING MOTEL 6 Remodeled! Remarkable! Clean, friendly, affordable. Pet JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 43rd Anniversary! Locally friendly, kids under 18 stay free. Outdoor pool & picnic courtyard BICYCLE: RENTAL, SALES, & SERVICE owned & operated, Jackson’s premier outdoor store, extensive open in summer. Guest laundry. WI-FI. 600 So. Hwy 89, motel6.com, JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING selection of brand name products needed for any outdoor pursuit. 307-733-1620 Reservations call:800-4MOTEL6 pg 51 Two locations; on the Square in Jackson 307-733-3270, Alpenhof in FAT TIRE TOURS Guided mountain-bike adventures on the Elk Teton Village 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 25 MOUNTAIN PROPERTY MANAGEMENT offers a wide selection of Refuge, Snow King Mountain, and the Bridger-Teton Forest. Beginners JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is Jackson Hole lodging, featuring vacation rental homes, condos, and thru experts. Great Fun. 40 S. Millward. 307-733-5335 pg 17 cabins to suit all tastes and budgets. www.mpmjh.com, 800-992- your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, 9948 or 307-733-1648 PG 51 FITZGERALD’S BICYCLES WANTED! Visitors to Jackson Hole look- accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bike ing for bike rentals, repair, sales & local info. Must be willing to rentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 41 PAINTED BUFFALO INN Offers comfortable lodging in the heart of interact with friendly bike addicts. Appreciation for customer serv- TETON VILLAGE boasts a wide range of outdoor apparel stores. downtown Jackson, 3-blocks from the Town Square. Swimming pool, ice a must! 307-734-6886 pg 19 sauna & shuttle stops are just a few of the conveniences we offer. Pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village businesses 400 W. Broadway, www.paintedbuffaloinn.com 800-288-3866 pg 51 HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike shop. Staffed for the listings or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com pg 41 by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Dealer for SUPER 8 Experience true western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Specialized, Trek, Haro and Santa Cruz. Bike tours daily. 520 West DINING–RESTAURANTS–DELI–GROCERIES Hole. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless Broadway. 307-733-5335 pg 17 internet, microwave/refrigerator. Custom packages & group rates. LOUNGES & LIQUOR STORES www.jacksonholesuper8.com, 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, 800-800- JACKSON HOLE SPORTS Bike Rentals for the entire family in the 8000/307-733-6833 pg 51 Bridger Center, Teton Village. Free Teewinot lift access with full day ALPINE, WYOMING rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. 307-739-2687 pg 41 VIRGINIAN LODGE 170 rooms, jacuzzi suites, swimming pool, TAVERN ON THE GREYS A fun hometown pub located at Greys restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facilities. 750 W TETON VILLAGE Several sports stores rent, sell and service bicycles. River Cove RV Park in beautiful Alpine. Drinks served to you"Tavern Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999 pg 33 www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 41 STYLE" by Larrisa, Allison, Carla, Alice & Mickie, good for groups, VIRGINIAN RV PARK 105 large spaces, 64 pull-through spaces. 50 TETON VALLEY-DRIGGS/VICTOR, IDAHO outdoor seating, beer, wine & package liquors. 25 Highway 89, 307- 654-4667. pg 39 amp electric, full sewer hook-up, cable TV, laundry, swimming pool, GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where restaurant, saloon and liquor store. 307-733-7189 pg 33 all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Mountain bike rentals, sin- GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING PINEDALE, WYOMING gle & double track riding from base. A variety of downhill riding GRAND TARGHEE serves up a variety of fare at reasonable prices. from top of chairlift. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 45 HAMPTON INN & SUITES PINEDALE, We have 102, comfortable, Find dining at the Branding Iron Grille, quick snacks at Snorkel’s or clean rooms! Amenities include fitness room, pool, business center, Wild Bill’s Grille, or a full service cafeteria. The Trap Bar & Grille is complimentary breakfast, laundry/valet service. Call for information BOATING, SCENIC & WHITEWATER RAFTING home to great food, spirits and local entertainment in a casual on one of our adventure packages today. West side of Pinedale, JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING atmosphere. pg 45 www.pinedalesuites.hamptoninn.com 307-367-6700 pg 49 JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING MAD RIVER BOAT TRIPS With 14 departures daily, Mad River has LAKESIDE LODGE RESORT AND MARINA On the shore of something for everyone. New equipment, trained guides & the BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS The locals' first choice for a great Fremont Lake, 4-miles north of Pinedale. Privacy & informal most variety. Breakfast, lunch & dinner trips.The best name in half pound burger, hot dogs and sandwiches. In a lively diner comfort surrounded by pristine wilderness. Resort includes whitewater & scenic trips! 1255 S Hwy 89, 307-733-6203/800-458- atmosphere. Daily from 11:30 thru dinner. Counter service & take- main lodge & restaurant, deluxe log cabins, & marina, with 7238 pg 21 out. Next to the Cadillac Grille, on the Square. 307-733-3279 pg 56 magnificent views of the lake & the Wind River Mountain SANDS WILDWATER RIVER TRIPS In our 5th decade, our boatmen CADILLAC GRILLE A locals' favorite for over 20 years. Choice steaks, Range. www.lakesidelodge.com, 307-367-2221 pg 51 have a deep knowledge of every turn, rapid, & current. We've taken game, fresh seafood & pasta. Innovative dishes prepared with care & THE LODGE AT PINEDALE Center of Pinedale, 43 rooms, deluxe tens of thousands of people safely down river, including the precision for the discerning palate. Lunch & dinner. Premium well continental breakfast, indoor pool & jacuzzi,laundry, high- President of the United States. Variety of scenic & whitewater trips, drinks. Bar menu. 2-for-1 happy hour 5-7daily. Opens daily at 11:30. On speed internet, lobby computer & free Wi-Fi, refrigerator & breakfast & overnight trips. 307-733-4410/800-358-8184 pg 21 the Jackson Town Square. 307-733-3279 pg 56 microwave in every room, Sat-TV w/HBO. COULOIR AT JH MOUNTAIN RESORT Step off the Bridger Gondola www.lodgeatpinedale.com. 866-995-6343 pg 47 PINEDALE, WYOMING 3,000’ above the valley at 9,095’ for fine dining at the Couloir SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE MountainManCountry.com pg 49 LAKESIDE LODGE & MARINA Offers marina services, gas, boat slips—seasonal & temporary, trailer parking, pontoon, small fishing Restaurant, a truly unique dining experience. Open evenings June TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING boat, canoe, kayak, paddle boat & jet boat rentals. Quick tie ups for 27-Sept 10 (except Sat), Cocktails & appetizers on the “Deck,” start HOSTEL A friendly lodge with rooms all have private baths & maid those stopping for a meal, purchase beer, or to visit. On Fremont Lake, July 4. Ride FREE 4:30-10p.m. 307-739-2654 pg 41 service. Rates range from $69 for 1-2 people to $89 for 3-4 people. 4–miles from Pinedale. www.lakesidelodge.com, 307-367-2221 pg 51 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo:jerky, salami, smoked Bunk rooms available. At the base of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram, roast, steaks & burger. Elk:steaks, burgers & jerky. Pick up your steak in Teton Village, Wyoming. www.thehostel.us 307-733-3415 pg 41 CAMERAS, BINOCULARS & PHOTOGRAPHY for the BBQ. Gift packs smoked trout & more. WE SHIP! Free JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING Samples south of town in Smith’s Plaza, & downtown in Gaslight the Teton Village Market, lodging & accommodation for all seasons. Alley. 800-543-6328 / 733-4159. www.jhbuffalomeat.com pg 2 DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full service camera store. Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes, for family getaways JACKSON HOLE DINING GUIDE This 96 page magazine is a compendi- Authorized dealer:Canon, Nikon, Leica, & Pentax. Binoculars, film, and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 pg 41 um of menus from the areas restaurants, with index of food types, along frames, & accessories. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & TETON VILLAGE A wide variety of lodging choices from high end with maps to restaurants. Pick up a copy at your lodge or view on line digital processing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307-733-3831 at www.focusproductions.com to very affordable are available in Teton Village. Pick up the Free pg 2 & 55 Village Mix brochure in Teton Village or visit on-line at JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT At Teton Village, over 12 restau- FOCUS PRODUCTIONS, INC. Publishers of Mountain Country, Jackson www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 41 rants offer breakfast, lunch & dinner, from gourmet burgers, pizza to Hole Skier & JH Dining Guide. Commercial & editorial photography & stock photo library. 307-733-6995 www.focusproductions.com distinct American cuisine. pg 41 ART–ANTIQUES–JEWELRY–FURNITURE ® JH PHOTO SAFARIS Embark on a relaxed, educational photo safari McDONALD’S OF JACKSON HOLE Great Tastes, Affordable ALPINE, WYOMING through Teton & Yellowstone. Photographers looking to hone their Choices. Featuring McDonald's freshly prepared breakfast & regular BUFFALO MOUNTAIN FURNITURE & GALLERY Unique gifts to wildlife & scenic skills and curious environmental observers are wel- menu favorites. Wi-Fi availability for your convenience. 5:00am-mid- furniture for your home. Take Wyoming home with benches, stools, come on board our Sprinter Van for a journey into the majestic night daily. 1110 W. Broadway Hwy 22. pg 11 photography, fine art, jewelry, clocks, bowls. WE SHIP. mountains that form the valley of Jackson Hole. 877-607-6377 pg 13 TETON VILLAGE has a wide array of food and drink establishments www.buffalomountaincustomfurniture.com 307-654-0077 pg 39 WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photogra- are scattered throughout. Pick up the Village Mix brochure for the JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING phy of Henry H. Holdsworth.T Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney listings, or on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com 866-749-4077 pg 41 wildbynaturegallery.com 307-733-8877 pg 13 VIRGINIAN SALOON Restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facili- DANSHELLEY JEWELERS:Wyoming’s Finest Jewelry Experience ties, 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999. pg 33 since 1976! From diamonds & elk ivory, to Teton & wildlife originals & distinctive wedding sets. This gallery transcends the ordinary! CLIMBING GUIDES & CLIMBING WALL PINEDALE, WYOMING Downtown in Gaslight Alley, just off the Town Square. GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING LAKESIDE LODGE RESTAURANT Dine inside or out on the deck www.DanShelley.com 125 N. Cache. 307-733-2259 pg 3 and enjoy fine food and spirits in a casual atmosphere with breath- GRAND TARGHEE CLIMBING WALL Experience the fun and chal- HINES GOLDSMITHS Jackson’s premier gallery of fine jewelry taking views of Fremont Lake and the Wind River lenge of sport climbing at the base area. Our staff will help coach Mountains.www.lakesidelodge.com, 307-367-2221 pg 51 designers since 1970. Elegant one-of-a-kind pieces. The original you to the top of our specially designed climbing wall. pg 45 designers of the Teton pendants, charm & rings, plus a large selec- OBO’S MARKET & DELI-SPECIALTY MEATS Breakfast selections, tion of unique charms and charm beads. 80 Center Street, east side JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING fresh coffee, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads, fresh-cut meats. of town square. www.hinesgold.com 307-733-5599 PG 11 CLIMB WITH THE EXUM GUIDES Daily climbing instruction - Lunch & dinner specials, GREAT Pizza, served all day! Pinedale’s

52 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2010 largest selection of deli meats & cheeses. 5am to 10pm Daily. At the J ACKSON HOLE, WYOMING Phillips 66 on the south end of Pinedale. (307)367-6717 pg 47 WIND RIVER PIZZA & PASTA ”Best Pizza in Wyoming!”Dough & JACKSON HOLE RODEO Wednesday & Saturday, all summer, at 8 sauces homemade daily, organic and highest quality ingredients p.m.Reserved seating – $19.50, General admission – adult $14, chil- make for phenomenal food! Panini’s, hoagies, incredible salads, pas- dren $8.50, Family ticket at the gate only – $42.50 (2 parents & tas, Philly cheese steak. 4 Country Club Lane, 307-367-6760 pg 47 their children under 18). Tickets online www.TheJacksonRodeo.com, (307)733-7297 pg 35 FRISBEE GOLF TRAM—GONDOLA–CHAIRLIFTS G RAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 18-hole disk golf course. 1-800- TARGHEE pg 45 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Take a scenic chairlift to the TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING summit, access our mountain bike trails or horseback riding in our 9-HOLE FRISBEE GOLF Course starts at Jackson Hole Sports in Teton panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 45 Village. Course is free, maps, info and discs available in the shop. TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING 307-739-2687 pg 41 JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM The NEW tram is here! Ride 4,139’ GIFTS–RETAIL SPECIALTIES above the valley to 10,450’ and the alpine timberline environment. Take in the 360 degree panorama, naturalist on duty. The bigger J ACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING cabins can accommodate up to 60 people. 307-739-2654 pg 41 TETON VILLAGE Gift shops, apparel, sports equipment, at Jackson JACKSON HOLE BRIDGER GONDOLA Ride 3,000’ above the valley Hole Sports in the Bridger Center. 732-3618 pg 41 to 9,095’ to the Bridger Restaurant. Cocktails & appetizers on the JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo & Elk steaks, burgers, “Deck,” July 4-Sept 10 (except Sat). Fine dining at the Couloir jerky, salami & smoked roasts. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift Restaurant June 27–Sept 10. Ride FREE 4:30-10p.m. 2-for-1 Happy packs available, WE SHIP! SEE FOOD & RESTAURANTS pg 2 Hour, 4:30-5:30 307-739-2654 pg 41 JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE The official logo store of the TEEWINOT CHAIRLIFT Ride the chairlift with your bike or on foot to Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Your source for logo apparel & gifts access miles of single track for all types of riders & hiking trails into on the east side of the Jackson Town Square. 307-734-6045 pg 41 Grand Teton NP. Tickets (free with rental) & bike rentals at JH Sports GUIDES & OUTFITTERS in the Bridger Center, at the base of the lift. 307-739-2687 pg 41 FISHING–HORSEBACK RIDING–HUNTING WILDLIFE & PHOTO SAFARIS –TOURS DUBOIS, WYOMING MUSEUMS, & INTERPRETIVE CENTERS THUNDER MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, D UBOIS, WYOMING covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River Mountains. 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225 NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER Enjoyable & educational experience."Sheep Mountain,"photos GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING & hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range & GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where habits of these magnificent animals. Gift shop. 9am-8pm daily. all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Go horseback riding in our 307-455-3429 pg 15 panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 45 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING JH PHOTO SAFARIS Embark on a relaxed, educational photo safari JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 43rd Anniversary! through Teton & Yellowstone. Photographers looking to hone their Exceptional guided fishing trips, hand-crafted flies, and superior wildlife & scenic skills and curious environmental observers are wel- service are the norm. On the Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270 & the come on board our Sprinter Van for a journey into the majestic Alpenhof in Teton Village, 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 25 mountains that form the valley of Jackson Hole. 877-607-6377 pg 13 TETON VILLAGE TRAIL RIDES Take a horseback ride on the Historic RIVER RUNNERS MUSEUM Historic boats, rafts, artifacts & replicas Snake River Ranch with a real cowboy. Hourly rides. Quality moun- take visitors into another era, when river running was a courageous tain horses. Next to Teton Village. TetonVillageTrailrides.com, 307- & risky means of travel. In the Mad River Boat Trips “Wedge,” 1255 733-2674 pg 41 S Hwy 89, Jackson 307-733-6203 pg 21 l WAGONS WEST COVERED WAGON TREKS Relive pioneer l

a WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENCE SCHOOL provides year- days on a 2, 4 or 6 day trek into the Mt. Leidy highlands of d

o round wildlife viewing & natural history interpretation to anyone

Jackson Hole. Horseback riding, chick wagon meals, campfire o interested in close-up, ethical viewing of Greater Yellowstone’s wild entertainment. Sleep in tent or wagon. [email protected] W animals in their natural habitat. www.wildlifeexpeditions.org 888-945- 307-886-5284, 800-447-4711 pg 33 b o 3567, 307-733-2623 pg 8 WESTBANK ANGLERS Home to Jackson Hole’s most experienced & B professional guided fly fishing services. Full & 1/2 day trips, beginner to Bison-Yellowstone National Park PINEDALE, WYOMING experts. Snake, Green, New Fork & South Fork Rivers & Yellowstone 75rd ANNUAL GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT This hour- National Park. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 25 JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING long re-enactment relives the early mountain man & Indian history of YELLOWSTONE OUTFITTERS 2 & 4 hr & all-day horseback rides into HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike & outdoor the area. “Meet Me on the Green!” Sunday, July 11, 1pm at the Teton Wilderness. 6-day 1st class horse-pack trips into Yellowstone & shop. Staffed by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. 307-367-2242. pg 49 Thorofare Rivers. Orvis-endorsed outfitter. Box Creek base camp east Hiking & running shoes and accessories. 520 West Broadway-#3. 307- MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN Exhibits on fur trade, of Moran Jct. @ 23590 Buffalo Valley Road. June, July, Aug & Sept. 733-5335 pg 17 Mountain Men, Plains Indians and Western exploration. Open daily Reservations needed, 307-543-2418, 800-447-4711 pg 33 JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 43rd Anniversary! Locally 9am-5pm through September 30. Green River Rendezvous weekend SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Hiking, fishing, riding in the owned and operated. Extensive selection of brand name products July 8-11, 2010. Toll free-877-686-6266 pg 48 Wind River & Wyoming Ranges.MountainManCountry.com pg 47 for any outdoor pursuit. Hand-crafted flies, & superior service. On the Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270, the Alpenhof in Teton Village WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCY CARE 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 25 GRIZZLY & WOLF DISCOVERY CENTER See LIVE bears & wolves. JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is Get a glimpse into their worlds at this AZA accredited, Not-for- your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, Profit, Wildlife Park & Educational Center. Films, programs & activi- ST. JOHN’S FAMILY HEALTH & URGENT CARE Walk-ins welcome. accessories & resort wear for the entire family. 307-739-2687 pg 41 ties for all ages. 1-block from Yellowstone National Park. Open 365 X-ray & laboratory services on-site so doctors can assess & treat your days a year (GWDC bears DO NOT hibernate). 1-800-257-2570 pg 15 condition promptly. Open extended hours, evenings & weekends. In TETON VILLAGE Several Outdoor stores in Teton Village have gear, the Smith’s Plaza, 1415 S. Hwy 89, 307-739-8999 pg 43 clothing etc. to outfit you for any adventure. Pick up the Village Mix brochure or on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com. pg 41 WYOMING HISTORICAL SITE ST. JOHN’S EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT Staffed 24/7 by board-certi- fied emergency medicine physicians. St. John’s offers comprehensive WESTBANK ANGLERS Jackson Hole’s fly fishing experts. Most com- VISITOR CENTER plete selection of flies & tackle available. Mail order & website cata- hospital care including diagnostic imaging, certified Clinical Laboratory logues. Retail store on the Teton Village Road, just North of the CODY, WYOMING & Surgery Center services. 625 E. Broadway, 307-733-3636 pg 43 Aspens. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 25 BUFFALO BILL DAM & VISITOR CENTER Open daily May 1-Sept. MUSIC 30. Free admission, enjoy views from the top of the dam. The cen- PARAGLIDING ter includes exhibits, a theater, a self-guided audio tour, bookstore, GRAND TARGHEE MUSIC FESTIVALS Great food, vendors, games, & restrooms. www.BBDVC.org Located 6 miles west of Cody on way part of our summer music festivals. Tent camp in our beautiful for- JH PARAGLIDING Tandem paragliding rides from the top of the to Yellowstone. pg 38 est during events. It starts with the 6th Annual Targhee Fest, July 16- Jackson Hole Aerial Tram—the experience of a lifetime. Instruction 18. Next is the 23rd Annual Grand Targhee Bluegrass Festival, Aug available. Reservations & rates in Café 6311 at the Nick Wilson’s at 13-15. www.grandtarghee.com pg 45 the base of the Bridger Gondola, (307) 690-4948 pg 41 WEDDINGS, CONVENTIONS, PARTIES NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all REAL ESTATE GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 38 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where TETON VILLAGE Throughout the summer season Teton Village ALPINE, WYOMING all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 45 hosts musical performances. For a list pick up the Free Village Mix REAL ESTATE OF STAR VALLEY brochure or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com. pg 41 Specializing in all properties in JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING Jackson Hole, Alpine (Star Valley) & Pinedale areas. We can help w/ JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Full service resort in Teton OUTDOOR SHOPS-FISHING-CAMPING-HIKING all your real estate needs. Member ofthe Teton Board of Village. Hotels, restaurants, lounges, recreation. 307-733-2292 pg 41 ALPINE, WYOMING Realtors/MLS. Contactpg 39 us today, Jacksonholejunction.com NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY Thirty years in Jackson (307)690-7701JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING Hole, impeccable references. Provides entertainment for all types of ALPINE ROD & REEL Dave Lloyd–Owner & Builder, 56-years expe- occasions. www.noteworthymusicagency.com Call Mike Calabrese rience. Custom built rods, custom bamboo rods, rod & reel repair TETON VILLAGE There are several real estate offices located in 307-733-5459 pg 38 & refinishing. Guns & ammo, camping & hunting supplies. Wyo Teton Village. Pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in all Teton hunting & fishing licenses, ATV permits. [email protected], Village businesses or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com. pg 41 PINEDALE, WYOMING 185 HWY 89, Unit C, 307-654-FISH (3474) pg 39 RODEO LAKESIDE LODGE & RESTAURANT has meeting facilities to accom- DUBOIS, WYOMING modate up to 100 participants for your company meet- CODY, WYOMING ing/convention, weddings, family reunions or other special events. WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casual Catering service is available. www.lakesidelodge.com, 1-877-755- wear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books, CODY NITE RODEO Best of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. All Rodeo Events. LAKE(5253) / 307-367-2221 pg 51 GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend. Nightly at 8:00, June 1– Aug. 31. Kid’s events, clowns, covered grand- ....where outdoor adventures begin. www.windrivergearshop.com, stand, free parking. Tickets available at the covered wagon in city park, SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Facilities for any function, from 19 N. First St., 307-455-3468, pg 29 front gate & various businesses. 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 35 guest ranches to hotels. MountainManCountry.com pg 48

www. focusproductions. com 2010 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 53 • CODY • DUBOIS • JACKSONHOLE • REDLODGE • MAMMOTH • GARDINER • PINEDALE • WYOMING • IDAHO • MONTANA BRIDGER • HOBACK • PERCE NEZ • SHOSHONE • • YELLOWSTONE BILL BUFFALO • PAHASKA • FAITHFUL OLD • TETONS GRAND • PASS TOGWOTEE • VENTRE GROS • RIVER SNAKE • • WASHBURN • DUNRAVEN To Three To Bozeman To Livingston Forks Red To Billings To Billings Big Sky Y MONTANA J Á Ennis t e Lodge 15 t Á l 89 r lo CUSTER Á e t v w 308 Á i 39 s LNATIONAL k R t Granite Pk. 12,799 ft. e k o re r 41 n Highest Point In Montana. C 212 72 o 191 e FOREST k F R c s o k r GALLATIN G iv R a Gardiner la l e Cooke City la North Entrance Northeast Entrance C ti r t NATIONAL n t Á B R e a r t o iv Á Tower o t h Beartooth Pass e Mammotht M FOREST r o u 10,940 Hot Springs Junction 18 Á n t 287 18 29 a i n 31 Át 50 s 22 Ch ief J ose ph Á 21 Sc iso en ad n Hebgen 19 Yellowstone 46 ic M R H 120 iv i e Lake Á gh r Sunlight Basin w 8 National Park ay 18 r Norris Á e v 296 Á i To Powell 87 R t t Canyon Á Y 13 Æ n e o 12 l Lam k a M Á b l o West Entrance o ar R r o u b a i wsto iver s n t t G 14 b a 14 14 n A i n 17 West Á e s A Á R Henrys 16 i Yellowstone tMadison v e Fishing Lake r r Junction e Bridge v i Á t 42 R Á e l t 27 Cody 14 o 16 Bridge Lake 52 h Pahaske Tepee 16 e t 14 r y t i Bay piti Valle t 20 F 21 t 16 a Buffalo Bill Dam

W To Greybull Á 20 Visitors Center Æ Island Park Island East Entrance t 17 West Sh Res. Át Thumb Yellowstone oshon Park Old Faithful Át e River Buffalo Bill Res. 120 tGrant Lake ne Shoshone Village ho Lake WYOMING os Sh 22 rk To: o 20 TARGHEE Lewis Lake F Meeteetse th Thermopolis r SHOSHONE u Riverton NATIONAL e Heart Lake o iv S Lander R k s Casper r FOREST i NATIONAL o w e Y F L e l s ake R l ’ Sn iver o y South Entrance w FOREST r s n Flagg Ranch t e t Á o H er n Riv e lls Át Fa 89 BRIDGER-TETON R i Ashton A v Mountain Country Grand NATIONAL FOREST b e s r k a ee r o 50 Teton 27 Cr k fic a ADVENTURE i ac River National P M eton Colter Bay Village T t o J 55 32 u 33 Park tJackson Lake Lodge n GUIDE Á t Yellowstone Outfitters t Jackson Wagons West a Rexburg t iver i Lake tSignal Mountain Lodge uffalo R n Tetonia Grand Moran B s Targhee t t Resort Leigh Lake Á www.focusproductions.com tJenny Lake t Jenny Lodge 26 Togwotee Pass Upper Wind River Valley SCALE: 1 inch = approx: 20 miles J Teton Range 89 55 9,658 feet Lake 191 t Moose BRIDGER-TETON W Brooks Lake Á 55 Á Driggs i t NATIONAL FOREST nd 33 Jackson Hole tTeton Science School R Approximate milage between red dots IDAHO Mountain Resort iv Æ G er Teton Village t ro t Kelly s V t 26 INFORMATION Teton Valley en Triangle C Ranch 287 Á Slide tre BOZEMAN, MONTANA t G Lake R Westbank r iv 31 Victor Anglers t 31 o e Dubois 406-586-5421 s r t Á CODY, WYOMING V d J t 22 390 tNational Museum of Wildlife Art e a o 307-587-2297 21 t tSpring Creek Ranch / Amangani n Union Pass t R C Wilson r s o DUBOIS, WYOMING e s n 23 a Torrey 307-455-2556 To Idaho Falls tJackson M P t Á Teton Pass Á i Lake n n To GARDINER, MONTANA Granite Hot o o Swan Valley u i e Riverton Springs t n n Trial 406-848-7971 26 n U t Lake Lander t a GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK a l 26 13 k D e i r 307-739-3300 Hoback e

r n e i v C s v JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING i Junction e i t d it Á n R Green 307-733-3316 a e H Upper Green River Valley

r n River ob G LIVINGSTON, MONTANA 26 ac e Lakes k e 406-222-0850 Palisades Res. R r 89 iv W yon er G MEETEESE, WYOMING Á 23 Can 352 i n L iver d Gannett Pk. 307-868-2423 ake R 189 R PINEDALE, WYOMING Sn i 13,804 ft. t 191 v Highest Point 307-367-2242 Alpine e BRIDGER-TETON 53 r In Wyoming POWELL, WYOMING New Fork Lakes M 307-754-3494 NATIONAL FOREST o CARIBOU 33 u RED LODGE, MONTANA G Fremont n 406-446-1718 Willow Lake NATIONAL r Lake t e WYOMING TETON VALLEY/DRIGGS, IDAHO a Star Valley y 89 s i FOREST n 208-354-2500 R Soda Lake i s WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA v Lakeside Lodge e Á Resort & Marina 406-646-7701 r t Half Moon Lake WIND RIVER VISITORS COUNCIL 11 Burnt 800-645-6233 189 tÁ Lake Pinedale YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK J Boulder Lake Át Afton 191 307-344-7381 J To Big Piney & Evanston Map design by Bob Woodall T o Evanston Copyright 2010 – Focus Productions T o Rock Springs • MADISON • MORAN • FIREHOLE • GIBBON • TEEWINOT • ROOSEVELT LODGE • WASHBURN • JENNY LAKE • LEIGH LAKE • NORRIS • GALLATIN • WIND RIVER • ABSAROKA • WAPITI VALLEY SNOW KING • HAYDEN VALLEY • MOOSE • WILSON • TETON VILLAGE • DRIGGS • VICTOR • GRAND TARGHEE • BEARTOOTH • COOKE CITY • 54 MOUNTAINCOUNTRYADVENTUREGUIDE 2 0 1 0 w w w. focusproductions. c o m Beyond the Still. ■ New 10 Megapixel sensor coupled with ■ Improved Optical Image Stabilization ■ 18.0 Megapixel CMOSsensor and Canon’s DIGIC 4 Image Processor designed provides up to 4 stops correction. Dual DIGIC 4 Image Processor for high as the High Sensitivity System for improved image quality and speed. ■ Minimum focusing distance of 1.2m/3.9 ft low light image performance. at all zoom settings – useful for getting ■ ISO 100–6400 (expandable to12800) ■ A high-powered Wide-Angle 5x Optical closer to your subjects. for shooting from bright to dim light. Zoom (equivalent to 28 – 140mm) with ■ High speed CPU and optimized 8.0 fps continuous shooting up to Canon’s Optical Image Stabilizer gets you ■ algorithms for high speed AutoFocus 126 Large/JPEGs with UDMA CF card up close and personal to your subjects. performance. and 15 RAW. ■ Improved Smart AUTO intelligently selects the proper setting for the camera based on ■ All Canon cameras and lenses include a 1-year Limited Warranty/Registration Card 22 predefined shooting situations. Warranty available for inspection at authorized Canon dealers. ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE SQUARE 733-3279 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING LARGE GROUPS AND PARTIES ARE WELCOME www.cadillac-grille.com