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Table of Contents

Naturalist Phone Numbers 1 Park info 5 Pocket GRTE Statistics 6 Reference Timeline 8 Name Origins 10

Mountains 12 Things to Do 19 Hiking Trails 20 Historic Areas 23 Wildlife Viewing 24 Visitor Centers 27 Driving Times 28 Natural History 31 Wildlife Statistics 32 Geology 36 Trees & Flowers 41 National Park Bears 45 revised 12/12 AM Weather, Wind Scale, Metric 46

Phone Numbers Other

Emergency Avalanche Forecast 733-2664 Bridger-Teton Nat. Forest 739-5500 Dispatch 739-3301 Caribou-Targhee NF (208) 524-7500 Out of Park 911 353-2300 Jackson Chamber of Comm. 733-3316 Recorded Information Jackson Fish Hatchery 733-2510 JH Airport 733-7682 Weather 739-3611 JH Resort 733-2292 Park Road Conditions 739-3682 Information Line 733-2291 Roads 1-888-996-7623 National Refuge 733-9212 511 Post Office – Jackson 733-3650 Park Road Construction 739-3614 Post Office – Moose 733-3336 Backcountry 739-3602 Post Office – Moran 543-2527 Campgrounds 739-3603 Snow King Resort 733-5200 Climbing 739-3604 St. John’s Hospital 733-3636 Elk Reduction 739-3681 Teton Co. Sheriff 733-2331 Information Packets 739-3600 Teton Science Schools 733-4765 Wyoming Game and Fish 733-2321 YELL Visitor Info. (307) 344-7381 Wyoming Highway Patrol 733-3869 YELL Roads (307) 344-2117 WYDOT Road Report 1-888-442-9090 YELL Fill Times (307) 344-2114 YELL Visitor Services 344-2107 YELL South Gate 543-2559

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Concessions

AMK Ranch 543-2463 Campgrounds - Colter Bay, Gros Ventre, 543-2811 Campgrounds - Lizard Creek, Signal Mtn. 543-2831 Central Reservations 1-800-443-6931 Climber’s Ranch 733-7271 Dornan’s Pasta & Pizza 733-2415 Spur Ranch 733-2522 Moosely 733-1801 Exum Mountain Guides 733-2297 Grand Teton Lodge Co. 543-2811 1-800-628-9988 Headwaters Lodge & Cabins 543-2861 @ Flagg Ranch 1-800-443-2311 JH Mountain Guides 733-4979 Medical Clinic 543-2514 Jenny Lake Boating 734-9227 Leek’s Pizzeria 543-2494 Murie Ranch 739-2246 Signal Mountain Lodge 543-2831 1-800-672-6012 Triangle X Ranch 733-2183 Xanterra (Yellowstone) 344-7311 1-866-439-7375

Elevation & Area

Moose 6,467 ft Colter Bay 6,800 ft Inspiration Point 7,200 ft Signal Mountain 7,725 ft Flagg Ranch 6,857 ft Jackson 6,209 ft

Jackson Lake elev. 6,772 ft Park Depth 430 ft Area (low level) 17,800 ac Information Area (high level) 25,540 ac

Jenny Lake elev. 6,783 ft Area 1,191 ac Depth 250 ft

GRTE Low Elev. Fish Creek 6,320 ft GRTE High Elev. Grand Teton 13,770 ft

Highest Wyoming 13,804 ft , Highest 20,320 ft Mt. McKinley, AK Highest World 29,035 ft Mt. Everest, China-Nepal 5 7

1949 – Named for landscape Government accepts land gift of 32,000 painter who traveled with acres from John D. Rockefeller, Jr. the 1872 Hayden Expedition.

September 14, 1950 – Glacier on Mount Moran National Monument becomes shaped like a frying pan or skillet. part of Grand Teton National Park under President Harry S. Truman Signal Mountain – 1891 Robert Hamilton lost while hunting, searchers lit signal fire August 25, 1972 when body found. John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway established. (23,700 acres) – Lewis and Clark named part of this river after the Shoshone, or Snake August 11, 2007 Indians. Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center opens Teewinot – Shoshone for “many pinnacles”, possibly the Shoshone name for the Teton November 5, 2007 Range. Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve (1,106 acres) becomes part of Grand Teton NP Teton – French-Canadian trappers called the three peaks “les trois tetons”, meaning June 21, 2008 the three breasts. Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve Center opens Yellowstone – Indians called this river “Mi- tsi-a-dazi” or Yellow Rock River, according August 25, 2016 to French-Canadian trappers. Centennial 9 11

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Rendezvous ,927 ft Name Origins Rendezvous Mtn. 10,450 ft

Blacktail Butte – Originally called Gros Apres Vous Peak 8,426 ft Ventre Butte, named for blacktail deer now known as .

Colter – , fur trapper traveled through area winter 1807-08, may have been first white man to enter Jackson Hole.

Mount Hunt 10,783 ft Craig Thomas – US Senator from WY, 12 years, who helped fund the NPS. Died prior Open Canyon to opening of CTDVC (1933-2007).

Death Canyon – several theories, possibly an 1899 member of Bannon survey party from Highway View 89, Prospector Mtn. 11,241 ft went into canyon and did not return.

Gros Ventre (grow vont) – “Big belly” in French, used by trappers in 1800s to describe an Indian tribe.

Jenny Lake – Jenny, Shoshone, wife of trapper Richard “Beaver Dick” Leigh. Assisted 1872 Hayden Expedition. Died Albright Peak 10,552 ft from smallpox.

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GRTE Statistics Park History Timeline

Grand Teton National Park March 1, 1872 310,000 acres 485 mi2 Yellowstone National Park established under President Ulysses S. Grant. John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway 23,700 acres 37 mi2 August 10, 1912 established. Facilities Lodging 803 rooms August 25, 1916 Campgrounds 1,200 sites National Park Service created via the Roads 221 miles Organic Act, under President Woodrow Trails 236 miles Wilson

GRTE Visitation February 26, 1929 Year Recreation Total Grand Teton National Park established 2003 2,355,693 4,113,403 under President Calvin Coolidge (96,000 2004 2,360,373 4,000,698 acres; and glacial lakes only) 2005 2,463,442 3,907,354 2006 2,406,476 3,841,685 March 15, 1943 2007 2,588,574 3,982,823 Jackson Hole National Monument 2008 2,485,987 3,832,015 established under President Franklin 2009 2,580,081 3,845,839 Delano Roosevelt (188,000 acres in the 2010 2,669,374 4,002,025 sage flats). 2011 2,587,437 3,866,579

Turnouton Highway 89

one mile southoneMoose mile of Junction 11,303 ft) Grand Teton 13,770 ft 11,938 ft 12,928 ft Glacier Gulch Teewinot Mtn. 12,325 ft

Avalanche Canyon 12,514 ft 12,026 ft Nez Perce 11,901 ft Mount St. John 11,430 ft

Garnet Canyon Grand Teton 13,770 ft 11,144 ft Disappointment Peak Mount Woodring 11,590 ft Mount Owen 12,928 ft Mount Moran 12,605 ft Glacier Gulch Teewinot Mtn. 12,325 ft

Moran Canyon Cascade Canyon Eagles Rest Peak 11,258 ft Mount St. John 11,430 ft Mount Moran 12,605 ft 11,355 ft

Langford

Langford Eagles Rest Peak 11,258 ft

Ranger Peak 11,355 ft 15

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La Jackson

Bivouac Peak 10,825 ft

Snowshoe Canyon ke Lodge Rolling Thunder Mtn. 10,908 ft

Eagles Rest Peak 11,258 ft

Doane Peak 11,355 ft Things Waterfalls Canyon to Do

Ranger Peak 11,355 ft

Colter Canyon

Owl Peak 10,612 ft

Langford

Webb Canyon 17 19

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Hiking Trails

mi: Round-trip mileage hr: Estimated time of round-trip hike. ft: Total elevation climbed during hike dif: difficulty (E=easy, M=moderate, S=strenuous)

Colter Bay mi hr ft dif Lakeshore 2.0 1 100 E Heron Pond/Swan Lk 3.0 2 200 E Hermitage Point 9.7 5 700 M

Cunningham Cabin mi hr ft dif 0.8 1 20 E

Death Canyon mi hr ft dif Phelps Lake 2.0 2 430 M Overlook Phelps Lake 4.2 3 1050 MS Static Trail Jct. 7.9 5 2100 S Static Peak Divide 16.3 12 5100 S+

Flagg Ranch mi hr ft dif Polecat Creek Loop 2.5 2 80 E Flagg Canyon 4.0 3 250 E

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Rendezvous Mountain 10,450 ft 10,927 ft Granite Canyon

Static Peak 11,303 ft Buck Mountain 11,938 ft Nez Perce 11,901 ft 10,783 ft

Cascade Canyon Open Canyon Teewinot Mtn. 12,325 ft Prospector Mountain 11,241 ft Grand Teton 13,770 ft

Death Canyon Storm Point 10,546 ft Albright Peak 10,552 ft Hanging Canyon Mount St. John 11,430 ft Rockchuck Peak 11,144 ft

Static Peak 11,303 ft Paintbrush Canyon

View from Teton View Point Buck Mountain 11,938 ft Mount Woodring 11,590 ft

Mount Wister 11,490 ft)

The Wall

from View Skillet Glacier South Teton 12,514 ft Mount Moran 12,605 ft Cloudveil Dome 12,026 ft Nez Perce 11,901 ft 12,804 ft

Historic Areas Granite Canyon mi hr ft dif Bar BC Ranch – on Snake River off the Marion Lake 18.5 12 3000 S+ River Road; 2nd dude ranch in Jackson Hole, 1912; Struthers Burt early conservationist. Jenny / Cascade mi hr ft dif Jenny Lake Loop 7.1 4 450 E Cunningham Cabin – Hwy 89; 1880s Pierce Hidden Falls 5.2 3 450 M Cunningham homestead via shuttle boat: 1.2 1.5 180 M Inspiration Point 6.0 4 700 MS Lucas-Fabian – NW of Teton Glacier TO; via shuttle boat: 2.0 2.5 420 MS Geraldine Lucas homesteader, climbed Forks Cascade Cyn. 13.6 7 1500 S Grand Teton. Harold Fabian bought land for Snake River Land Co. became part of park via shuttle boat: 9.6 5 1220 MS

Lake Solitude 19.0 11 2700 S+ Menor’s Ferry – N of Moose; Bill Menor via shuttle boat: 15.0 8 2420 S 1892, est. ferry service; sold to Maud Noble; South Fork Cascade 24.8 15 4200 S+ meeting for park 1923; ferry ended 1927. ()

via shuttle boat: 20.8 12 3920 S+ Mormon Row – off Antelope Flats Rd; settlers in 1889; famous Moulton Barns. Jackson Lk. Lodge mi hr ft dif Lunch Tree Hill 0.5 0.5 80 E Murie Ranch – S of Moose; Adolph & Olaus wildlife biologists in AK & WY; Mardy, Olaus’ mi hr ft dif wife; conservationists, & wilderness Leigh Lake 1.8 1 40 E advocates Bearpaw Lake 8.0 4 350 EM 13.0 8 2600 S White Grass Ranch – near Death Canyon TH; 3rd dude ranch, 1919 – 1985.

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Beaver (dawn & dusk) Visitor Center Highlights Oxbow Bend Swan Lake-Heron Pond Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center Schwabacher Landing Innovative center opened in 2007. Themes: Moose-Wilson Road. Place, People, Preservation, and Cottonwood Creek by Taggart Mountaineering. Interactive displays & huge windows frame . Bison Antelope Flats-Mormon Row Colter Bay Visitor Center Elk Ranch flats Enjoy 35 never before seen items from the David T. Vernon Indian Arts Collection in Elk (dawn & dusk) the remodeled visitor center. The rest of the Teton Park Road north of Moose collection is undergoing conservation Willow Flats treatment. Road River Road Jenny Lake Visitor Center Historic cabin first housed Harrison Moose (dawn & dusk) Crandall, photographer and painter; then Willow Flats store; now geology and natural history Moose-Wilson Road displays. Blacktail Ponds Death Canyon Laurance S. Rockefeller Cascade Canyon Preserve Center Swan Lake Transferred from Laurance S. Rockefeller Gros Ventre River estate to GRTE in 2007. Center is LEED platinum certified. Designed as a place for Continued on following page… quiet contemplation and spiritual renewal.

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Pronghorn Driving Distances

Antelope Flats-Mormon Row

Teton Park Road N of Moose

River Road VC

Moose Junction

Songbirds Bay Colter Moose-Wilson Road Teton Destinations Willow Flats-Christian Pond mi mi Phelps Lake overlook Jackson 12 40 Cascade Canyon Gros Ventre CG 12 35 Granite Canyon Moose NA 28 Jenny Lake VC 7 20 Trumpeter Swans Signal Mtn. CG 17 10 Swan Lake Moran Junction 18 12 Christian Pond Colter Bay VC 25 NA Two Ocean Lake Lizard Creek CG 34 10 Flat Creek (National Elk Refuge) Flagg Ranch 42 18 South Gate YELL 45 21 Waterfowl Christian Pond Yellowstone Oxbow Bend Destinations mi mi Flat Creek (National Elk Refuge) Grant 65 40 Moose-Wilson Road Old Faithful 84 59 Snake River bridge in Moose Lake Village 86 61 West Yellowstone 114 89 Canyon Village 102 77 Mammoth 135 110

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LSR mi hr ft dif Wildlife Viewing Lake Crk./Woodland 3.2 1.5 350 E Aspen / Boulder 5.8 3 900 M Stay at least 100 yds. from bears & wolves Do not approach or feed wildlife. Lupine Meadows mi hr ft dif Do not leave backpacks unattended.

Amphitheater Lake 10.1 6 3000 S Species Count Garnet Canyon 8.2 5 2300 S 22 rodents

17 carnivores mi hr ft dif 6 hoofed mammals String Lake 3.7 2 325 EM 3 rabbits/hares Paintbrush-Cascade 19.0 14 4350 S+ 6 bats 9 reptiles & amphibians mi hr ft dif 16 fish Taggart Lk. (out & back) 3.0 2 350 E 300+ birds Taggart / Beaver Ck. 3.9 2 500 M Taggart / Bradley 5.9 3 800 M Bald Eagles and Osprey Oxbow Bend Tram (from top) mi hr ft dif Swan Lake-Heron Pond Marion Lake (out & back) 11.8 7 4000 S+ Jackson Lake Granite Canyon (down) 12.3 7 -4200 S Snake River +450

Bears (dawn & dusk) Two Ocean Lake mi hr ft dif Stay at least 100 yards from bears. Two Ocean Lake 6.4 3 400 M Signal Mountain Road 10.7 5 1100 M Jenny Lake Scenic Drive Two Ocean & Emma 13.2 7 1400 MS Highway 89 north from Moran Junction

VC Moose

Junction Colter Bay Bay Colter

City Destinations mi mi Salt Lake City, UT 285 315 Dubois, WY 75 67 Cody, WY 165 140 Cheyenne, WY 445 415 Falls, ID 105 130 Boise, ID 380 410 Natural Rapid City, SD 505 500 , CO 540 510 History Bozeman, MT 205 175 Billings, MT 280 250

Regional Parks & Monuments mi mi West Glacier, MT 505 480 Devils Tower, WY 450 440 Mount Rushmore 485 480 Rocky Mountain 515 480 Canyonlands, UT 540 570 Zion, UT 570 600 Grand Canyon, AZ 780 810

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Birds in GRTE Wolves Bald Eagles (2011) Known nest sites 18 Grand Teton Wolves 2011 Occupied/Nested 14 Pack Adults Pups Total Successfully Nested 6 Huckleberry 5 1 6 Trumpeter swans (2011) Lower Gros Ventre 3 0 3 Known nest sites 13 Pacific Creek8 4 12 Occupied (2 outside park) 6 Phantom Springs 10 3 13 Successfully Nested 4 Pinnacle Peak 9 5 14 Snake River 3 4 7 Reptiles in GRTE Lone wolves1 0 1 Rubber Boa 39 17 56 Wandering and Valley Garter Snakes Gopher Snake Yellowstone Wolves 2/16/2011 Northern Sagebrush Lizard 98 wolves in 10 packs plus loners 31 released in Yellowstone, 1995-96 Amphibians in GRTE Northern Leopard Frog (rare) Threatened and Endangered Species Boreal Toad (declining, common) Experimental, non-essential Columbia Spotted Frog (abundant) Wolf Western Chorus Frog (common) Threatened Blotched Tiger Salamander Canada Lynx (locally common) Bullfrog (introduced to Kelly Warm Candidate Springs) Sage grouse North American Wolverine Whitebark Pine 33 35

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2011 Grand Teton Wolf Packs Geology Timeline

 2.7 Ga – metamorphic gneiss, layered black and white rock, collision of ancient continents  2.5 Ga – igneous granite, speckled black and white rock, magma squeezed into weak zones, highest peaks  775 Ma – igneous diabase, squeezed into vertical cracks, black dike on Mt. Moran, Middle Teton  500 – 100 Ma – shallow seas cover area, depositing sand, mud, and coral, forming sedimentary sandstone, shale, and limestone  120 – 55 Ma – collision of Farallon plate with N. American plate crumples landscape from west to east  70 – 55 Ma – crumpling uplifts and  55 – 45 Ma – widespread volcanism builds

Ga = billions of years ago Ma = millions of years ago ka = thousands of years ago

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Wildlife Statistics

Large Mammal Populations (2010) Numbers approximate

Grizzly Bears (GYE) 600 Grizzly Bears (GRTE) 60 Black Bears (GRTE) 100+ Moose (Jackson Hole) 920 Elk (winter refuge) 7,500 Elk (summer GRTE) 2,000 Elk (Jackson Herd target) 11,000 Elk (Jackson Herd) 11,600 Bison (GRTE) 910 (GRTE) 350 Bighorn (GRTE) 100-150 Wolves (WY) 328

GYE – Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem GRTE – Grand Teton National Park

Minimum distance to view wildlife Wolves & bears 100 yds All other wildlife 25 yds

 30 Ma – stretching starts to form Basin Present-Day Glaciers and Range  17 Ma – Yellowstone Hotspot originates “Little Ice Age” 1400 – 1850 under ID/NV/OR border as magma plume  10 Ma – stretching reaches Teton area, Glacier Location initiates Teton fault; Yellowstone hotspot Triple (3 separate glaciers) Mt. Moran N SW of Teton Range Skillet Mt. Moran NE  5 Ma – Yellowstone hotspot W of Teton Falling Ice Mt. Moran SE Range Petersen Cascade Canyon forks NW  2 Ma – Pleistocene Ice Age starts Teton Grand Teton NE  ~120-160 ka – Bull Lake glaciation, Teepe Grand Teton SE covers valley by up to 3,500 ft of ice, Middle Teton Grand Teton SW carves U-shaped canyons Schoolroom Hurricane Pass E  ~50-14 ka – Pinedale glaciation, carves Jackson Lake, valley floor lakes (Jenny, Why aren’t all the year-round ice/snow Leigh, Bradley, Taggart, Two Ocean, and patches called glaciers? Emma Matilda), and U-shaped canyons Glaciers flow due to gravity. Snowfields don’t move.  ~4 ka – last large earthquake on Teton

fault How fast do the glaciers flow / retreat?  1400-1850 – Little Ice Age, formed Teton Glacier flows about 30 feet per year. today’s glaciers in depressions from old It retreated about 600 feet between glaciers measurements in 1929 and 1963. ? next large earthquake

Are the glaciers retreating?

2008 research indicates glaciers in the park

shrank 10-20% from 1967 – 2007.

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Common Trees & Shrubs Common Flowers

Conifers – have cones, evergreen

Spruce – short, sharp, square Engelmann Spruce – cones ~1.5” Blue Spruce – cones <3” Pink Pines – long, sharp, packets Lodgepole Pine – 2-needle Whitebark Pine – 5-needle, 8,500+ ft Fireweed Sticky Geranium Limber Pine – 5-needle, flexible Fir – short, blunt, flat

Subalpine Fir – tall, slender Douglas Fir – bushy, furrowed bark, flat needles, not a true fir Red

Deciduous – lose leaves in fall Indian Cottonwood Scarlet Gilia Aspen Paintbrush Willows

Shrubs

Ceanothus – pungent smell, burn areas Blue Utah Honeysuckle – split flowers; aka Red Twinberry Mountain Ash – orange berries in fall Mountain Serviceberry – white flowers, rose Penstemon Bluebell family, reddish-blue berry 41 43

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Common Flowers Common Flowers

Blue Yellow

Arrowleaf Mule’s Ear Harebell Columbine Balsamroot Wyethia

Purple Yellow

Heart-leaved Lance-leaved Showy Arnica Stonecrop Lupine Fleabane

White Violet

Sulfur Yarrow Buckwheat Larkspur Monkshood

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Geologic Landscape Timeline of Natural Events

Teton fault Gros Ventre Landslide – June 1925  40 miles long Heavy rains and minor tremors cause  Up to magnitude 7.5 earthquake several cubic miles of rock to slide off of  Scarp (offset) above String Lake, about Sheep Mountain, creating a dam. 100 ft; reflects 5-10 earthquakes in past 14,000 years (end of ice age) Gros Ventre Flood – May 1927  Offset across Teton fault –up to 30,000 ft Natural dam breaks floods Kelly, WY and near Mt. Moran. kills six people. Standing water in Wilson, WY.

Yellowstone Fires – Summer 1988 1.2 million acres burned in GYE 793,000 acres in Yellowstone (36%)

Other Geologic Features Grand Teton NP Fires (partial list)  U-shaped canyons carved by glaciers 1974 Waterfalls Canyon  Sagebrush flats covered with quartzite 1985 Beaver Creek – Taggart Lake cobbles carried south by glaciers 1988 Fires in JDR extend into YELL 1999 Alder – N. of Jenny Lake  Topsoil washed away 2009 Bearpaw Bay – N. of Leigh Lake  Snake River Terraces reflect older river

channels during glacial melt/runoff  Glacial moraines form natural dams around lakes, covered in lodgepole pines

Which bear is it? Beaufort Wind Scale

Black Bear Grizzly Bear Speed Observation Blonde, Blonde to black, (mph) Color cinnamon, usually with <1 Calm. Smoke rises brown, black grizzled tips vertically Size 100 – 300 lbs 200 – 500 lbs 1 – 3 Wind motion visible in Height 2.5 – 3.0 ft ~3.5 ft smoke No shoulder 3 – 7 Wind felt on skin; leaves Pronounced hump, high rustle Shape shoulder hump, point above highest point 8 – 12 Leaves and smaller twigs in hind legs constant motion. Dished face, Tapered head, 13 – 17 Dust and loose paper rise. more massive Head pointed head, rounded Small branches begin to prominent ears ears move ~1.5 in. not 18 – 24 Moderate size branches 2 – 4 in. visible Claws visible from move. Small trees sway. from distance distance 25 – 30 Large branches move. Large toe arc, Minimal arc of Whistling heard in wires. Prints claws often not toes, claws 31 – 38 Whole trees move. Effort visible visible needed to walk into wind. Color and size may be misleading. Use 39 – 46 Twigs broken from trees. a combination of characteristics. Cars veer on road. 47 – 54 Larger branches break from trees. Uproots some small trees.

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46 48 Metric Conversions Weather at Moose, WY 1958-2011 °F °C Miles Km 100 38 1 1.6 Avg. Avg. 90 32 2 3.2 Avg. Avg. 80 27 3 4.8 High Low Month PPT Snow 70 21 4 6.4 Temp Temp (in.) (in.) 60 16 5 8.0 (°F) (°F) 50 10 6 9.7 Jan 26 1 2.6 43 40 4 7 11 Feb 31 3 1.9 29 30 -1 8 13 Mar 39 12 1.6 21 20 -7 9 14 Apr 49 22 1.5 10 10 -12 10 16 0 -18 11 18 May 61 31 2.0 2.4 -10 -23 12 19 Jun 71 37 1.8 0 -20 -29 13 21 Jul 81 42 1.2 0 -30 -34 14 23 Aug 79 40 1.4 0 -40 -40 15 24 Sep 69 32 1.4 1 16 26 Feet Meters 17 27 Oct 56 23 1.4 5 6000 1830 18 29 Nov 38 14 2.1 23 7000 2130 20 32 Dec 27 2 2.6 40 8000 2440 30 48 Avg. / 52.3 21.6 21.5 175 9000 2740 40 64 Total °F °F in. in. 10000 3050 50 80 11000 3350 60 97 12000 3660 70 113 Record Temperatures 13000 3960 80 129 Coldest: -66°F Moran 1933 14000 4270 90 145 Hottest: +97°F Jackson 2002