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Home , Dwarka, Dwarkadhish Temple, Vrindavan

in The in marks the culmination of ’s journey

Ward at the Kumbha Palace, Chittorgarh EXPERIENCE Living the legend

A princess, an As myths go, Mirabai’s story is unique. It is said that in the early 16th entury, Mirabai, mo- unwavering tivated both by the persecution from her in- devotee and laws and her love for Lord , left her a celebrated home and set out to follow the call of her heart and travel through . She went from Chit- mystic poet, torgarh to and eventually to Dwar- MIRABAI’s ka, where she is said to have disappeared under story continues mysterious circumstances. I, too, left my home and family and followed Merta , to be shrouded the call of my heart to travel through India. near , is in mystery. Along the way, I discovered the story of Mira- Mirabai’s birthplace Abai. Intrigued, I followed in her footsteps across Canadian three states to visit the places and relive the Marg to look for the Mirabai temple. Down a stories most associated with the saint. narrow lane, I saw a battered sign and a door. travel writer For five centuries, Mirabai’s name has stood Stepping through the gate, I found myself in- MARIELLEN for piety, devotion and spiritual longing. To this side a small courtyard. Here, I met Praduman day, people continue to honour her with songs, Pratapsingh, who told me that his ancestor WARD traces temples and even an annual festival. I wanted built this temple for Mirabai and she lived here her legend by to find the woman behind the legend and un- for 15 years. It was a lucky start to my Mirabai following the cover some essential truths in her story that expedition. I was thrilled to find a living con- would perhaps be relevant for women today. I nection to the saint. Pratapsingh is the ninth saint’s footsteps also hoped to somehow shed light on the mys- generation of his family to preside over the from Vrindavan tery behind her disappearance in Dwarka. With temple, and while showing me around he talked the help of an Explorer’s Grant from Kensing- about Mirabai with a knowledge and vigour to Dwarka ton Tours, I travelled for several weeks in Octo- that few textbooks can convey. I got a sense of ber last year. I set out from and my first Mirabai as a living, breathing woman. stop was Vrindavan—Krishna’s playground. PURSUIT IN PUSHKAR WANDERING IN VRINDAVAN My next stop was Pushkar in Rajasthan, locat- Upon my arrival at Vrindavan in Uttar ed close to Merta City, which is supposed to be

Pradesh, I joined pilgrims along Mirabai’s birthplace (she was born circa. 1500 CREDIT HERE PLEASE

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AD). In Merta City, there is Krishna. This is where Mirabai danced and not only a Mirabai temple, sang for Krishna. A mere glance will leave you but also a Mirabai museum awestruck by the vastness of this mountain- dedicated to the Rajput prin- top fort, which only hints at the obvious might cess, housed in the palace of its rulers. This was no petty royal family where she grew up. A must- Mirabai quarreled with and walked away visit for travellers, it con- from. I left Chittorgarh with a much greater tains statues and text de- appreciation for the struggles she faced, and tailing her life story. eventually overcame. At the Mirabai temple here, I was invited by a DWARKA DIARIES group of women ( Then came the final stop on the itinerary: saints) singing Mirabai Dwarka, on the coast of . Mirabai was Ward began songs to join them on drawn to Dwarka because of the venerable her joueney in the tiled floor. Sitting Dwarkadhish Temple, one of the most impor- Vrindavan among these women, tant Krishna temples in India. It’s a long way watching the joy on from Chittorgarh to Dwarka, even in modern their faces, I felta strong times. So it must have been an incredible jour- camaraderie. It was ney for her, by foot, in the 16th century. through this experience Here is where Mirabai’s story ends. At that I began to get an about the age of 50, she is said to have disap- idea of the love she en- peared while singing in the temple, leaving gendered and the sister- only a piece of her sari wrapped around the hood that is borne Krishna murti. The spiritual tradition is that through her devotion. she dissolved into love for Krishna, which can Merta City houses be a little hard to understand today. a temple and CHASING The fitting end to my journey was meeting museum dedicated Hardik Dwarka, the youthful but wise priest to Mirabai CHITTORGARH A taxi ride away from of the Dwarkadhish Temple. He explained to Merta City is Chittor- me that Krishna represented awareness, garh, Mirabai’s home after she married Prince while Mirabai was emblematic of devotion, Bhojraj of Mewar. With a guide leading us, we and together they merged to form a higher toured Chittorgarh, spending the majority of self. As I stood inside the ancient temple con- our time at the crumbling Kumbha Palace, templating his words and enjoying the energy where she lived, and at the exquisite Mirabai of the place, I suddenly felt buoyant waves of temple. Built for her by her father-in-law, Rana joy pulsing through me. I realised that Mira- Sangram Singh, the powerful king of Mewar, bai’s story is a true reflection of love. n the well-maintained temple contains a beauti- Mariellen Ward is a travel writer based in To- ful statue of Mirabai seated at the feet of Lord ronto and Delhi. Breathedreamgo.com

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