Eastern USA 5

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Eastern USA

ME

ND VT New MN NY NH England MI p170 New York, MA WI New Jersey & CT RI SD Pennsylvania Great Lakes p60 p516 NJ IA PA NE OH MD DE IN Washington, DC IL WV VA& the Capital Region KY p250 KS MO NC TN SC OK AR The South p332 GA MS AL

LA TX Florida p452 FL

Trisha Ping, Ali Lemer, Charles Rawlings-Way, Regis St Louis, Mara Vorhees, Isabel Albiston, Mark Baker, Amy C Balfour, Robert Balkovich, Ray Bartlett, Jade Bremner, Gregor Clark, Ashley Harrell, Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Vesna Maric, Virginia Maxwell, Hugh McNaughtan, MaSovaida Morgan, Lorna Parkes, Kevin Raub, Simon Richmond, Benedict Walker, Greg Ward, Karla Zimmerman PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Eastern USA. . . . 4 NEW YORK, Ogunquit...... 241 Eastern USA Map . . . . 6 NEW JERSEY & Portland...... 241 Eastern USA’s Top 25. . . . 8 PENNSYLVANIA. . . . 60 Need to Know...... 20 New York City...... 61 WASHINGTON, DC What’s New...... 22 New York State. . . . . 123 & THE CAPITAL Long Island...... 123 REGION...... 250 Accommodations. . . . . 24 Hudson Valley...... 129 Washington, DC . . . . . 251 If You Like…...... 26 Catskills...... 132 Maryland...... 280 Month by Month...... 30 Finger Lakes...... 135 Baltimore...... 280 Itineraries ...... 35 The Adirondacks . . . . . 137 Annapolis...... 287 Road Trips & Thousand Islands. . . . . 141 Eastern Shore...... 289 Scenic Drives ...... 39 New Jersey ...... 145 Ocean City...... 290 Outdoor Activities. . . . . 46 Hoboken ...... 146 Delaware ...... 293 Eat & Drink Like a Local. . . . 50 Princeton...... 146 Wilmington & Brandywine Valley. . . . . 296 Family Travel...... 54 Jersey Shore...... 148 Pennsylvania...... 153 Dover ...... 296 Regions at a Glance. . . . 57 Philadelphia ...... 153 Virginia...... 298 Pennsylvania Historic Triangle...... 304

PISAPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK © Dutch Country ...... 164 Norfolk...... 307 Pennsylvania Wilds . . . . 165 Virginia Beach...... 308 Pittsburgh...... 166 The Piedmont...... 309 Shenandoah Valley. . . . 315 NEW ENGLAND. . . . 170 Blue Ridge Highlands & Southwest Virginia. . . . 319 Massachusetts...... 171 Boston...... 174 West Virginia...... 322 Cape Cod...... 194 Eastern Panhandle. . . . . 323 The Islands...... 200 Monongahela National Forest...... 325 Pioneer Valley...... 203 New River & EVERGLADES NATIONAL The Berkshires...... 205 Greenbrier Valley...... 327 PARK P478 Rhode Island...... 208 Providence...... 209 THE SOUTH. . . . . 332 Newport...... 211 BHOFACK2/GETTYIMAGES © North Carolina . . . . . 333 East Bay...... 213 The Triangle...... 342 Connecticut...... 214 Charlotte...... 346 Hartford...... 214 Great Smoky Mountains Litchfield Hills...... 216 National Park ...... 354 Connecticut Coast. . . . . 217 South Carolina. . . . . 355 Vermont...... 221 Charleston...... 356 New Hampshire ...... 232 Lowcountry...... 361 Lakes Region...... 234 Myrtle Beach...... 363 White Mountains ...... 236 Greenville Hanover...... 240 & the Upcountry...... 365 CHEESESTEAK SANDWICH P162 Maine...... 240 Tennessee...... 366 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Memphis...... 366 Tampa...... 497 History...... 616 Nashville ...... 373 St Petersburg...... 499 The Way of Life...... 626 Kentucky...... 386 Sarasota...... 500 Arts & Architecture. . . . 630 Louisville...... 387 Sanibel & Music...... 633 Captiva Islands...... 501 Bluegrass Country. . . . . 391 Landscapes Georgia...... 394 Naples ...... 502 & Wildlife...... 636 Atlanta...... 394 Central Florida. . . . . 504 Alabama...... 414 Orlando ...... 504 Birmingham ...... 414 Walt Disney World® Resort...... 506 SURVIVAL Montgomery...... 416 Universal GUIDE Selma...... 417 Orlando Resort...... 508 Mobile ...... 418 Florida Panhandle . . . . . 511 Directory A–Z...... 642 Mississippi...... 419 Tallahassee...... 511 Transportation ...... 649 Oxford ...... 419 Pensacola ...... 513 Mississippi Delta . . . . . 420 Index...... 659 Jackson...... 422 Map Legend...... 669 Natchez...... 424 GREAT LAKES. . . . 516 Gulf Coast...... 425 Illinois ...... 517 Arkansas...... 425 Chicago...... 517 Little Rock...... 425 Indiana...... 552 Hot Springs...... 427 Indianapolis...... 552 Tri-Peaks Region...... 428 Ohio ...... 560 Ozark Mountains. . . . . 430 Cleveland...... 561 Louisiana...... 432 Erie Lakeshore & Islands...... 564 New Orleans...... 433 Ohio Amish Country . . . . 565 St Francisville...... 447 Columbus ...... 566 Cajun Country ...... 448 Yellow Springs ...... 567 Cajun Wetlands...... 449 Dayton...... 568 Cincinnati ...... 568 FLORIDA ...... 452 Southeastern Ohio...... 571 South Florida ...... 453 Michigan ...... 572 Miami...... 453 Detroit...... 572 Fort Lauderdale ...... 470 Dearborn...... 579 Palm Beach...... 474 Ann Arbor ...... 580 SPECIAL The Everglades...... 478 Central Michigan . . . . . 580 FEATURES Florida Keys ...... 482 Gold Coast...... 583 Atlantic Coast...... 488 Straits of Mackinac. . . . 587 Road Trips & Space Coast...... 488 Upper Peninsula...... 588 Scenic Drives...... 39 Outdoor Activities. . . . . 46 Daytona Beach...... 490 Wisconsin ...... 591 St Augustine...... 491 Milwaukee...... 591 Family Travel...... 54 Jacksonville...... 493 Minnesota...... 602 Central Park in 3D. . . . . 84 Amelia Island ...... 495 Minneapolis...... 602 National Mall in 3D. . . . 260 Southwest Florida . . . . 496 St Paul...... 608 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 35

Itineraries

CANADA MAINE

VERMONT #• Portland NEW Gulf of HAMPSHIRE É Maine

#• Portsmouth É

Concord #•Salem É #• Provincetown NEW Bennington #• É #• #• YORK Boston #• Cape Cod MASSACHUSETTS É

É

CONNECTICUT RHODE ISLAND

É

#• Montauk A T L A N T I C

É É O C E A N PENNSYLVANIA New York #• City NEW JERSEY

2 WEEKS Up the Coast

Get your big-city fill in the biggest city of all, then mosey into New England for small- town pleasures. The great dynamo of art, fashion and culture, New York City is America at its most urbane. Spend three days blending touristy must-dos – Top of the Rock viewpoint, ­Upper East Side art museums, Central Park rambling – with vibrant nightlife and dining adventures, perhaps in the East Village. After big-city culture, catch your breath at the pretty beaches and enticing charms of Montauk on Long Island. Back in NYC, catch the train to Boston for two days, visiting historic sights, dining in the North End and pub- hopping in Cambridge. Rent a car and drive to Cape Cod, with its idyllic dunes, forests and pretty shores. Leave time for Provincetown, the Cape’s liveliest settlement. Then set off for a three-day jaunt taking in New England’s back roads, covered bridges, pictur- esque towns and beautiful scenery, staying at heritage B&Bs en route. Highlights include Salem and Concord in Massachusetts; Bennington in Vermont; and Portsmouth in New Hampshire. If time allows, head onward to Maine for lobster feasts amid beauti- fully rugged coastlines – Portland is a fine place to start. 36 #•New York City PENNSYLVANIA Amish É

Lancaster #• NEW JERSEY

Country #• Chicago #• É É #• Philadelphia #• É OHIO Pittsburgh MD DELAWARE

#_WASHINGTON, DC INDIANA É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN ILLINOIS WEST Jamestown/ É VIRGINIA VIRGINIA #•Williamsburg

É KENTUCKY #• Durham/ NORTH Chapel Hill

CAROLINA É

TENNESSEE É

It SOUTH AT L A N T I C CAROLINA

i nerar #• Memphis O C E A N ARKANSAS Clarksdale #• #•Charleston GEORGIA ALABAMA #• i es É Savannah #• Vicksburg #• Montgomery

É Natchez #• MISSISSIPPI #• É Mobile LOUISIANA FLORIDA #• New Orleans

4 WEEKS Eastern Grand Tour

This road trip loops around the East through towns large and small, as blues joints, pie shops and civil-rights sights flash by. Start in New York City (but hire a car more cheaply in New Jersey) and hit the road for week one. Head west toward Lancaster to explore the idyllic back roads of Pennsyl- vania Dutch Country. Next is Pittsburgh, a surprising town of picturesque bridges and cutting-edge museums. Enter Ohio by interstate, but quickly step back in time amid the horses, buggies and byways of Amish Country. See the skyscrapers rising on the hori- zon? That’s big-shouldered Chicago. Hang out for a few days to marvel at famous art- works and steely architecture, and chow through the city’s celebrated restaurant scene. For week two, motor south from Chicago on old Route 66, at least for a few time-warped, pie-filled miles. Memphis is the next destination, a draw for Elvis fans, barbecue connois- seurs, civil-rights students and blues-music buffs alike. Follow the Great River Rd south from here through juke-jointed Clarksdale, the Civil War battlegrounds of Vicksburg and the antebellum mansions of Natchez. It’s not far now to New Orleans, where you can hear live jazz, consult with a voodoo priestess and spoon into thick, spicy-rich gumbo. Begin journeying back east for week three. Wheel along the Gulf Coast to the azalea- lined boulevards of Mobile, then inland to Montgomery, to see the world-renowned Memorial for Peace and Justice, a tribute to the victims of lynching. Fall under the spell of live oaks in Savannah and pastel architecture and decadent food in Charleston. Take your pick of Durham or Chapel Hill, side-by-side university towns offering groovy nightlife. Begin week four brushing up on your history in Virginia. Visit Jamestown, where Pocahontas helped the New World’s first English settlement survive, then wander through the 18th century at nearby Williamsburg. A pair of big cities completes the route: Washington, DC, is a museum free-for-all, while Philadelphia fires up the Lib- erty Bell, Ben Franklin and the mighty, meaty cheesesteak. Finally, it’s back to the neon lights of NYC. 37

#•Boston

anaa ne r É assasetts IsnsIn re Isan Innesta IIan nnetIt #• New York City

ennsanIa ne erse É #• Chicago #• Philadelphia

eaare TRIP YOUR PLAN I InIana #_WASHINGTON, DC IInIs est aran IrInIa IrInIa

ent nrt arIna tennessee

É É N I C aransas st O C N It arIna i nerar IssIssII erIa

aaaa É i es

IsIana #• New rIa Orleans

Everglades ÷# #• Miami National Park

3 WEEKS Bright Lights, Big Cities

For big, brawny, bold metropolises, the East is your place. These are the cities that never sleep. Begin with a few days in history-rich Boston. Walk the Freedom Trail past Paul ­Revere’s house. Hang out in Harvard Sq’s cafes and bookshops, and chow down in North End trattorias and oyster houses. Then catch the train to New York City. With four days, you can indulge in iconic Manhattan and beyond. Stroll Central Park, walk the canyons of Wall St, go bohemian in Greenwich Village and catch a ferry to the Statue of Liberty. For a more local scene, join residents on the High Line, in Nolita’s stylish shops and in Queens’ creative microbreweries and galleries. Next hop on board a train to Philadelphia, which is practically down the block from NYC. Philly was the birthplace of American independence, and has the Liberty Bell and Declaration of Independence artifacts to prove it. Spend a few days touring the historic sites and indulging in foodie delights like the Italian Market. Don’t leave the Northeast without spending a few days in Washington, DC, a quick trip by bus or train. Beyond the staggering number of free museums and monuments – the Air and Space Museum and Lincoln Memorial among them – the US capital has rich dining and drinking scenes in Logan Circle, Shaw and along U St. Who knows what politico might be swirling a whisky next to you? It’s a long haul to Miami (flying is the easy way to go), so allocate four days to get your money’s worth exploring the exotic museums and galleries, the art deco district, Little Havana and sexy, sultry South Beach. For a change of pace, day-trip to the Ever- glades and commune with alligators. Keep the Southern thing going in jazz-loving New Orleans, with a soundtrack of smokin’-hot funk/brass bands and the sizzle of Cajun and Creole food. Three days of heavy eating with locals in Uptown, the Central Business Dis- trict, Marigny and the Bywater should do it. Last, but not least, Chicago leaps up; the City of New Orleans train is a scenic way to arrive. Bike to the beach, see mod art in Millennium Park and plug into the blues. 38

ennsanIa ne erse

I aran #•Rehoboth Beach

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN #•Assateague Island InIana Monongahela National Forest ÷# ÷# Shenandoah

est É National Park

IrInIa É New River Gorge ÷# National River IrInIa

ent #• Outer Banks

It #•Cape Hatteras É É #• i nerar Ocracoke Island É nrt arIna #• Great Smoky÷# Gatlinburg

i es Mountains tennessee National Park

st N I C arIna O C N erIa

2 WEEKS The Great Outdoors

This trip is for those who like their nature ancient and wild. Timbered mountains, rag- ing rivers and sheltered islands are all on tap. Shenandoah National Park rolls out the welcome mat: this sliver of gorgeousness straddles the Blue Ridge Mountains, so-named for their color when glimpsed in the hazy cerulean distance. Besides scenic drives, hiking is the big to-do here. Five hundred miles of paths – including 100 miles of the Appalachian Trail – wind by spring wildflowers, summer waterfalls and fiery autumn leaves. More activities await a few hours west at Monongahela National Forest, where you can strap on ropes for Seneca Rocks or a bicycle helmet for the Greenbrier River Trail. Adventure-sports enthusiasts will find their wet-and-wild bliss nearby at New River Gorge National River. Outfitters provide white-water rafting gear for the infamous Class V rapids. Next up: Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Though it’s the USA’s most popu- lar patch of parkland, you can leave most of the crowds behind if you’re willing to hike or paddle – studies have shown that 95% of tourists here never venture more than 100 yards from their cars! After a day spent in the wilderness surrounded by lush, heather-colored peaks, there’s nothing quite like arriving in Gatlinburg, the park’s kitschy base. Prepare for fudge shops, Ripley’s Believe It or Not oddities and moonshine distilleries. So goes the first week. Now it’s time to fuel up for the twisty drive through the moun- tains and across to the coast, where the Outer Banks pay off big. Laid-back beach towns full of locally owned ice-cream shops and mom-and-pop motels dot the wind- swept barrier islands. Check out Cape Hatteras, with its unspoiled dunes, marshes and woodlands, or catch the ferry to remote Ocracoke Island, where the wild ponies run. Speaking of which: more wild horses roam Assateague Island, which floats to the north between Virginia and Maryland. It too offers brilliant, secluded beaches and a landscape ripe for birding, kayaking, crabbing and fishing. Still craving surf and sand? Family-friendly, gay-friendly Rehoboth Beach bestows traditional gingerbread houses, kiddie amusements and a big ol’ boardwalk along the oceanfront. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 656

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

spots. With a shout-out to Mary, Anna and Margie WRITER THANKS for their recommendations. And yes, Michael, I’ll Isabel Albiston include Celtic Crossing! Thank you to co-writers Thanks to everyone in Massachusetts who an- Karla Zimmerman, Adam Karlin, and the Destina- swered my questions so patiently and treated me tion Editor team for their Nashville and Franklin so kindly, especially to all the museum guides who hospitality and expertise! showed me around along the way. Thanks also to Leah, Julie and Andrea for your warm hospitality Robert Balkovich and to Trisha for commissioning me for such a Thank you to my family – my mother, father and great project. Lastly, huge thanks to Ellie, Alan and sister – and friends for their love and support. Liz for traveling out to join me at the end of my trip. Special thanks to Michael, Raghnild, Elizabeth and Ming for their hospitality and wealth of tips, Mark Baker and to Matthew for your friendship on the road. So many people came out of the woodwork to And thank you to Trisha Ping for this opportunity, help me carry out research in Minnesota and Wis- and many others. consin. A partial list would include, in Minnesota: Monte Hanson, Alex Friedrich, Leif Pettersen, Liz Ray Bartlett Puhl, Zach Peterson, Stacey Mae McGowan Olson Huge thanks to Trisha and Evan, the rest of the and Robert Olson. In Wisconsin, I’d like to thank Lonely Planet staff, and my family and friends. Sarah Lewison, Richard Ryan and Joan Menefee, You rock. Met such great folks along the way, among many others. I’d also like to thank Trisha thanks for making the trip what it was: Charissa Ping, the Lonely Planet Destination Editor who and Bret; Tara, Amber, and Shannon; Palma first invited me to pitch for this project. and Karyn; May Lee; Theresa and Jessenia; Rebeckah and Ashley; ‘Cousin’ Steve; Ericha and Amy C Balfour Bria; ­Austin (Habari!); Yimee Nguyen; Sabrina For Mississippi insights, thank you Jim Foley, Eone V; Michael Milgate; Kelley Luikey; birder Sara; Moore, Lake Andrews, Sarah Nobles, Kevin Webb Swanee; Jason and Sam; and, of course, Kiko the and Erik Arnold. Team Tennessee includes Jeff and Mermaid. Can’t wait to be back again soon. Heather Kelsey, Lauren Batte, Jim Hester, Frank Watson, Chad Graddy and David Wells. Melissa Jade Bremner and Michael Peeler, thank you for letting me crash Thanks to knowledgeable Destination Editor Trisha at your place and for escorting me to all the good Ping for all her wisdom on the Southern States. restaurants, watering holes and Memphis hot- Plus, the hardworking Georgia and North Caro- 657 lina barbecue chefs for cooking all that mind-­ Brian Kluepfel blowingly good smoky meat and sauce that To my wife and North Star, Paula Zorrilla. To fueled my entire trip around the South. Thanks ­Trisha at Lonely Planet, and Robert and Adam, to North Carolina locals Norm and Skye for their my writing cohorts. To Marc in Atlantic City, top tips and local advice. Last, but definitely not Brooke in Montauk, and Tom K in Hoboken for least, thanks to everyone working hard behind local knowledge. To Joe Dawson, Laura Tafuri the scenes – Cheree Broughton, Dianne and and Karen Ramos for cool beach recommen- SCENES THE BEHIND Jane, Helen Elfer and Neill Coen. dations. And to all the lovely toll-takers on the Garden State Parkway, some of whom I now Gregor Clark know on a first-name basis. Thanks to the many fellow Vermonters who shared their favorite spots in the Green Moun- Ali Lemer tain State with me this edition – especially Many thanks to Will Coley, Nicole Marsella, Shawn O’Neil, Margo Whitcomb, Victoria St Adam Michaels, Regis St Louis and Trisha Ping, John, Jim Lockridge and Joy Cohen – and to and to Professor Kenneth Jackson, who taught Gaen, Meigan and Chloe for a lifetime of com- me more about NYC history than anyone. My panionship on our family adventures in this work is dedicated to the memory of my father, gorgeous place we call home. Albert Lemer, a first-generation New Yorker who inspired my enthusiasm for international travel Ashley Harrell as much as he kindled my love of our shared Thanks to Erin Morris for welcoming me to your hometown – the greatest city in the world. state; Kourtnay King and Paul Haynes for taking me in and enabling me; Chandler Routman for Vesna Maric getting me out of the house; Jason, Elizabeth, Thanks to Trisha Ping and Evan Godt for commis- Iris and Loulou Ryan for being a great family; sioning me; to Alicia Estefania and Susana Felices; Patty Pascal for your unbridled enthusiasm; and a huge thanks to Marta Vila for her generosity. Halsey Perrin, Kim Jamieson and Ruta Fox for Thank you to Atena Sherry for fun times. your help and expertise; and Chris Dorsel for still being amazing. Virginia Maxwell Adam Karlin Thanks to DC locals Barbara Balman and Bob Bresnahan for their convivial company and in- Thank you: Trisha for commissioning this re- sider tips; to Trisha Ping for giving me the gig cent edition, Evan for taking over, and my road and supplying interesting leads; to DC expert trip friends and co-authors extraordinaire Amy Karla Zimmerman; and to traveling compan- and Karla. Thank you to the staff, students ions Eveline Zoutendijk, George Grundy and and faculty of the University of New Orleans Ryan Ver Berkmoes. At home in Australia, CWW for helping me find my voice when it thanks and much love to Peter Handsaker, comes to writing about the South. Thank you who coped with apartment-renovation chaos mom and dad for all you do, and thank you my and didn’t blame me for my absence (well, not favorite traveling companions: Rachel, Sanda too much). and Isaac.

­Morgan, Lorna Parkes, Kevin Bennett, Nigel Chin, Samantha THIS BOOK Raub, Simon Richmond, Cook, Lucy Cowie, Andrea This 5th edition of Lonely ­Benedict Walker, Greg Ward Dobbin, Emma Gibbs, Carly ­Planet’s Eastern USA guide- and Karla Zimmerman. This Hall, Victoria Harrison, Jennifer book was curated by Trisha guidebook was produced by Hattam, Gabrielle Innes, Helen Ping, Ali Lemer, Martine Power, the following: Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Lou Charles Rawlings-Way, Regis Destination Editors Evan McGregor, Rosie Nicholson, St Louis and Mara Vorhees. It Godt, Trisha Ping Kristin Odijk, Monique Perrin, Mani Ramaswamy, Sarah was researched and written by Senior Product Editors Trisha Ping, Ali Lemer, Regis ­Martine Power, Vicky Smith Reid, Fionnuala Twomey, Sam St Louis, Mara Vorhees, Isabel Wheeler Regional Senior Albiston, Mark Baker, Amy Rachel Imeson ­Cartographer Alison Lyall Cartographer C Balfour, Robert Balkovich, Meri Product Editor Carolyn Boicos Cover Researcher Ray Bartlett, Jade Bremner, Blazevski Gregor Clark, Ashley Harrell, Book Designer Gwen Cotter Thanks to Sain Alizada, Assisting Editors Sarah Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Fergal Condon, Joel Cotterell, Bailey, James Bainbridge, Vesna Maric, Virginia Maxwell, Sasha Drew, Bruce Evans, Imogen Bannister, Michelle Hugh McNaughtan, MaSovaida Charlotte Orr 658 MaSovaida Morgan lous meal at Sabbathday Shaker Village, Scott Thank you to the lovely souls in Savannah and ­Cowger for the tips and barn tour in Hallowell, beyond who provided tips, guidance and feed- Jack Burke and Julie Van De Graaf for their back for this project. In particular, many thanks kindness in Castine, and Gregor Clark and to Chad Faries and Emily Jones, Robert Firth, Diane Plauche for general Maine suggestions. and Trisha Ping for bringing me on. Special Special thanks to my family, who make coming home the best part of travel. BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND thanks and love to Ny, Ty and Haj. Barbara Noe Kennedy Mara Vorhees I can’t thank enough the endless line of Wash- To the server at a Gloucester restaurant, who ingtonians who always point me in the right recommended that I spend my afternoon at direction, keeping me up to date with the latest a certain delightful beach (which is not in this and greatest happenings. But no one can book). Thanks for sharing your secret spot. I surpass the tireless devotion of Kate Gibbs at won’t tell. Destination DC, who’s always there to answer my next question or let me know about the next Benedict Walker exhibition – thanks! I also would like to thank A special thanks to Cheryl Cowie and Keri my husband, David Kennedy, who is always Berthelot for their guidance, support and game to experience all that DC has to offer – Reiki II’s on the road. As always, to Trish Walker so much fun! for countless hours in the prayer chair, and a big shout-out to family; Andy, Sally and P Lorna Parkes for making sure I didn’t overdo the lobster! In Thank you to the residents of New York for your memory of Kevin Hennessy, Ainsley Crabbe and friendliness, as well as your endearing day- Ben Carey, my fellow adventurers who passed to-day sidewalk and subway rage; the latter I away in other lands while I was researching this expected, but the former not so much. Thanks title. A little part of you remains in Rhode Island to Kat and Heather who at various points joined for me, always. You’ll like it there! me to rate the best cocktail mixologists and live-music dives. Thanks most of all to Austin Greg Ward and Lily who waited patiently for me to return Thanks to the many wonderful people who home, and to Rob and my in-laws for holding helped me on the road, especially at Historic family life together in my absence. Stagville Plantation, Price’s Chicken Coop, ­Bryson City Bicycles and the Orange County Trisha Ping Visitor Center. Thanks too to my editor Trisha Thanks to Alicia Johnson for the sports intel, Ping for giving me this opportunity, and to my Bailey Freeman for the local edit and Martine dear wife Sam for everything else. and Sasha for signing me on! Karla Zimmerman Kevin Raub Many thanks to Paula Andruss, Lisa Beran, Lisa Thanks to Trisha Ping and all my fellow partners DiChiera, Ruggero Fatica, Chuck Palmer, Keith in crime at Lonely Planet. On the road, Jordan Pandolfi and Bob Sanders for taking the time to Mazzoni, Erika Dahl, Ali Lechlitner, Anita and share their favorite local spots. Thanks most to Kevin Welch, Jana and Bill Swigart, Tom and Eric Markowitz, the world’s best partner-for-life Alice Erlandson, Erika Dahl, Marla Cichowski, and road trip companion. You top my Best List Gina Speckman, Jessica Waytenick, Jeff Berg, every time. Luanne Mattson, Sarah Prasil, Erin Hawkins, Erin White, Tyra Miller and Morgan Snyder. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Simon Richmond Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Many thanks to the following people who gen- Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- erously shared their time and knowledge about ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Philadelphia: Jerry Silverman, Lindsay Ryan, Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Tish Byrne, Mason Wray and Rajeev Shankar. Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Regis St Louis Cover photograph: South Beach, Miami; John Coletti/AWL Images © I am grateful to countless innkeepers, park rangers, baristas, shop owners and folks ‘from Illustrations pp84–5, pp260–1 by Javier away’ who provided shared Maine insight. Zarracina. Special thanks to Brother Arnold for a fabu- ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 659

Index

10,000 Islands 481 Walt Disney World® Resort Carnegie Museum of Institute of Contemporary 606 531 19, 506-8, 19 Art 167 Art (Miami) 461 Wisconsin Dells 596 Chazen Museum of Art Intuit: The Center for ancient mounds 552, 572, 619 596-7 Intuitive & Outsider Art 528 A animals 636-40, see also Chicago Cultural Center 521 Abingdon 321 individual species Chrysler Museum of Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum 183 Acadia National Park 10, Ann Arbor 580 Art 307 247-8, 331, 10, 330 Clark Art Institute 207 Jepson Center for the Arts Annapolis 287-9 408-9 accessible travel 122, 642 Antietam National ­Battlefield Cleveland Museum of accommodations 24-5, 54, Art 561 Lexington Art League at 292 Loudoun House 391 55-6, see also individual Apalachicola National Cummer Museum of Art & locations Gardens 493-4 Margulies Collection at Forest 512 the Warehouse 462 activities 28, 30-4, 46-9, see Apostle Islands 600-2 Currier Museum of Art also individual activities 232-3 MASS MoCA 207 Appalachian Trail 19, 47, Adirondacks, the 137-41 Delaware Art Museum 296 Mennello Museum of 316, 19 air travel 649-50, 651-2 Detroit Institute of Arts 573 American Art 504 Appomattox 314-15 Alabama 414-19 Dia:Beacon 129 Met Breuer 79, 82 aquariums Albany 138-9 District of Columbia Arts Metropolitan Museum of Florida Aquarium 497 Art 78 alcohol 645, see also beer, Center 266 Georgia Aquarium 395 bourbon Dr Evermor’s Sculpture Milwaukee Art Museum 592 Alexandria 299-302 National Aquarium 281-2 Park 596 Minneapolis Institute of Alexandria Bay 141-2 Shedd Aquarium 523 Eric Carle Museum of Art 603 Ali, Muhammad 387 South Carolina ­Aquarium Picture Book Art 205 357 MoMA PS1 88 alligators 639 Farnsworth Art Museum South Florida Science 246 Museum of Contemporary Amelia Island 495-6 Center & Aquarium 476 Florida Museum of Art (Chicago) 527 Amherst 204-5 Tennessee Aquarium 383 ­Photographic Arts 497 Museum of Contemporary Amish communities 16, 164, Virginia Aquarium & Frick Art & Historical Art Detroit 573, 575 559, 565-6, 16 Marine Science Center Center 166 Museum of Contemporary amusement & water parks 308 Frick Collection 78 Art Jacksonville 494 27-8 architecture 26-7, 632 Frist Center for the Visual Museum of Contemporary Anakeesta 385-6 area codes 647 Arts 376 Art North Miami 463 Busch Gardens 497 Arkansas 425-32 Gagosian 69 Museum of Contemporary Photography 523 Casino Pier 150 Arlington 299 Galerie F 528-9 Museum of Fine Arts Cedar Point Amusement Arrington 377 Georgia Museum of Art 406 (Boston) 183 Park 564 Art Basel Miami Beach 34 Gibbes Museum of Art 356 Museum of Modern Art 73 Dinosaur Kingdom II 318 art museums & galleries Guggenheim Museum 78 National Gallery of Art 255 Dollywood 385 Albright-Knox Art Gallery Harvard Art Museums National Museum of ICON Orlando 504 143 183, 185 Mexican Art 523 Luna Park 87 American Visionary Art Herbert F Johnson New Museum of Rapids Water Park 476 Museum 283 Museum of Art 136 ­Contemporary Art 69-70 SeaWorld 504-5 Andy Warhol Museum 166 High Museum of Art 395 New Orleans Museum of Steel Pier 150 Art Institute of Chicago 520 Hirshhorn Museum 259 Art 438 Trimpers Rides 290 Bakehouse Art Complex Hood Museum of Art 240 Noguchi Museum 88 462 Universal Orlando Resort Hunter Museum of Ameri- Norman Rockwell Museum 508-11 Baker Museum 503 can Art 383 206 Valleyfair 602 Barnes Foundation 153 Hyde Collection Art North Carolina Museum of Birmingham Museum of Museum 139 Art 343 Art 415 Indianapolis Museum of Norton Museum of Art 476 Map Pages 000 Broad Art Museum 580-1 Art 553 NSU Art Museum Fort Photo Pages 000 Bushwick Collective 87-8 Institute of Contemporary Lauderdale 471 Art (Boston) 179 660 art museums & galleries Asbury Park 148-9 Berkeley Springs 324-5 Pictured Rocks National continued Asheville 351-4 Berkshires, the 205-8 Lakeshore 589 Ogden Museum of Assateague Island 290 Berlin 565 Washington, DC 268 Southern Art 439 Athens (Georgia) 406-8 Bethel 249 Bogue Banks 340 Opus 40 Sculpture Park Athens (Ohio) 571 bicycling 47, 652 Boldt Castle 141 & Museum 135 Atlanta 394-404, 396-7 Abingdon 321 Bonnaroo Music & Arts Orlando Museum of Festival 32, 381 INDEX INDEX Atlantic City 150-1 Boston 185 Art 504 booking services 25 Atlantic Coast 488-96 Cape Cod Rail Trail 195 Parrish Art Museum 125 books 630-1, 632, 636 Paula Cooper Gallery 69 ATMs 645 Chicago 531 Cumberland 293 Boone 350-1

A-B Auburn 560  Pérez Art Museum Miami Boothbay Harbor 245-6 457, 459 Aurora 136 Detroit 575

border crossings 650  Philadelphia Museum of Duluth 610 Art 23, 154 Falmouth 194 Boston 18, 174-92, 176-7, Phillips Collection 266 B Fayetteville 329 180-1 B&Bs 24 Pizzuti Collection 566 Franconia Notch State accommodations 186-7 Baltimore 280-7 Portland Museum of Park 238 activities 185 Art 243 Bar Harbor 248-9, 330 Indiana Dunes 559 children, travel with 179 Provincetown Art Barataria Preserve 446 Miami 463, 465 drinking & nightlife ­Association & Museum Barnegat Peninsula 149-50 Minuteman Commuter 189-90 199 baseball 628 Bikeway 192 entertainment 190 Renwick Gallery 264 basketball 629 New York City 88 festivals & events 186 Reynolds Center for Bath 245 Northampton 204 food 187-9 American Art & bathrooms 647 Palm Beach 475 itineraries 175 Portraiture 265 Battle Green 192 Provincetown 199 LGBTIQ+ travelers 189 Ringling Museum shopping 190-1 ­Complex 500 beaches 29 Richmond 311 sights 174-85 RISD Museum of Art 209 Acadia National Park 248 Sleeping Bear Dunes ­National Lakeshore tourist offices 191 Rodin Museum 155 Bahia Honda State Park 485 585 tours 185 Rubin Museum of Art 68 Belleayre 133 Tallahassee 512 travel to/from 191 Salvador Dalí Museum Washington, DC 268 499 Canaveral National travel within 191-2 Seashore 489 birds 640 SCAD Museum of Art 408 walking tour 184, 184 Captiva Island 501 bird-watching Smith College Museum Boston Tea Party 182, 617 of Art 204 Chicago 531-2 Cape May 152 Boundary Waters 613 Southeast Museum of Fire Island National Grafton Notch State bourbon 16, 388 Seashore 124 Park 249 Photography 490 Brandywine Valley 296 Folly Beach 361 Lake Martin 450 Speed Art Museum 387-8 Brattleboro 222-3 Fort Lauderdale 471 Laura Quinn Wild Bird Taubman Museum of Bretton Woods 238-9 Art 320 Gulf Islands National Sanctuary 483 Seashore 514 Merritt Island National breweries 23, see also Torpedo Factory Art distilleries Hammonasset Beach 219 Wildlife Refuge Center 301 Asheville 351, 353 Kiawah Island 361 488-9 Virginia Museum of Fine Boston 189-90 Arts 310 Martha’s Vineyard 202 Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge 336 Brew Ridge Trail 314 Void Projects 459 Miami 456, 457, 42 Pelee Island 565 Burlington 231 Wadsworth Atheneum 215 Muskegon 584 Birmingham 414-16 Cape Cod 196 Walker Art Center 603 Myrtle Beach 363-4 black bears 637-8, 13 Charleston 360 Walters Art Museum 282-3 Naples 503 Block Island 212 Chicago 23, 541, 542, 543 Weisman Art Museum 603 Ocean City 290 Bloomington 556 Cleveland 562, 563 Whitney Museum of Ocracoke Beach 339 Blowing Rock 349-50 Grand Rapids 581-2 American Art 67 Ogunquit 241 blue crabs 288 Mad River Valley 227 Williams College Museum­ Orient 128 of Art 207 Blue Ridge Highlands Milwaukee 592 Saugatuck 584 Wolfsonian-FIU 456 319-22 Minneapolis 607 St Augustine 492 Wynwood Walls 461 Blue Ridge Pkwy 16, 39-40, Muskegon 584 Virginia Beach 308 Yale Center for British 320, 349, 16 Nantucket 201-2 Art 219 Beaufort (North Carolina) Bluegrass Country 391-2 New York 112-13 340 Yale University Art bluegrass music 43, 321 Pittsburgh 168 Beaufort (South Carolina) Gallery 219-20 blues music 421, 527, 633 362-3 Portland 244 arts 630-2, see also boat travel 651, 652 Beckley 328-9 Stowe 228 individual arts boat trips Beecher Stowe, Harriet 215 Washington, DC 275, 276 Chesapeake Bay 289 beer 276, see also breweries Bronze Fonz 592 Fort Lauderdale 471-2 Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Brooklyn Bridge 86 Map Pages 000 Factory 228 Islamorada 484 Brooklyn Heights Photo Pages 000 Bennington 223-4 Key Largo 483 ­Promenade 86 661 Brown University 209 Charlotte 346-8 Civil Rights movement 621-2 Dexter Avenue Parsonage Brunswick 412-14 Charlottesville 312-14 Martin Luther King Jr 416 budgeting 21, 24, 52, 54 Charm 565 398-9, 416 Dickinson, Emily 205 Buffalo 142-4 Chatham 196-8 landmarks 417-18 disabilities, travelers with Buffalo National River Chattanooga 382-4 memorials 416-17 122, 642 429, 432 Chelsea Market 67-8 museums 367, 394-5, distilleries, see also Burlington 229-32 414, 418, 422, 569 breweries Chesapeake Bay 281, INDEX bus travel 651, 652-3 288, 289 trails 15, 415 Firefly Distillery 362 bushwalking, see hiking Chicago 10, 23, 517-48, Civil War 301, 619-20 Jack Daniel’s Distillery 367 Bushwick Collective 87-8 522, 524-5 Clarksdale 421-2 Kentucky 388 B-E business hours 646 accommodations 533-7 Cleveland 561-4 Maker’s Mark 393  ,activities 531-2 climate 20, 30, 31, 32, 33 Ole Smoky Moonshine children, travel with 532 34, see also individual regions 386 C drinking & nightlife 541-3 Cadillac Mountain 248 CNN Center 395 Siesta Key Rum 501 entertainment 543-6 Cahawba 418 Coca-Cola 395 Wigle Whiskey 167 festivals & events 533 Cahokia Mounds State cold exposure 644 diving 48-9, 340-1, 486 food 537-41 Historic Site 552 Columbus (Indiana) 557-8 dogsledding 613 history 517, 520 Cajun Country 448-9 Columbus (Ohio) 566-7 Dolly Sods Wilderness 325 itineraries 520 Cajun culture 433 Concord 192-3 dolphins 640 LGBTIQ+ travelers 545 Cajun Prairie 450-1 Coney Island 87 Door County 599-600 shopping 546-7 Cajun Wetlands 449-51 Connecticut 214-21 Douglas 584-5 sights 520-31 Cambridge 183, 185, 189 consulates 643 Dover 296-8 tours 532-3 camping 24 cooking classes 53 drinks, see beer, bourbon travel to/from 547 Canada, travel to/from 650 Coral Castle 479 driving, see car travel, travel within 547-8 Cannon Mountain 237-8 Cornucopia 601 scenic drives walking tour 530, 530 drugs 645 canoeing, see kayaking & Corolla 333, 336, 29 canoeing children, travel with 24-5, Duke University 344 costs 21, 24, 52, 54 54-6 Duluth 610-11 Cape Cod 194-200, 197 country music 375, 634 Atlanta 395 Duquesne Incline 166 Cape Cod National coyotes 639 ­Seashore 198 Boston 179 Durham 344-5 Crawford Notch 238-9 Cape Hatteras National Chicago 532 Dylan, Bob 611 Seashore 336 Miami 463 credit cards 645 Cape May 152-3 New Orleans 435 Creole culture 433 Capital Region 58, 250-329, Chimney Rock 351 Crisfield 281 E 252-3 Chrysler Building 76 crocodiles 639, 11 earthquakes 637 accommodations 250 churches & cathedrals Crooked Road 321 East Bay 213-14 climate 250 16th Street Baptist Crystal Coast 340-1 East Lansing 580-1 food 250 Church 414 culture 626-9 Eastern Panhandle 323-5 highlights 252-3 Anthony Chapel 428 Cumberland 293 Eastern Shore 289-90 travel seasons 250 Cathedral Church of St Cumberland Island National­ Eastern State Penitentiary 156-7 Capitol Hill 262-4 John the Divine 86 Seashore 413 Eau Claire 598 Captiva Island 501-2 First Ebenezer Baptist currency 20 Church 399 Edgar Allan Poe National car travel 651, 653-5, see customs regulations 642-3 Historic Site 157-8 also scenic drives Full Gospel Tabernacle Cutchogue 127 Church 369 Edisto Island 361 Carrboro 345-6 cycling, see bicycling Old North Church 178 Edmund Pettus Bridge Cash, Johnny 376 St Andrew’s Dune Church 417-18 cathedrals, see churches & 125-6 electricity 643 cathedrals D St John’s Episcopal Dahlonega 405 Ellis Island 61 Catskills 13, 132-5, 13 Church 310 dangers, see safety embassies 643 caves 315, 331, 394, 430, St Louis Cathedral 434 Daniel Boone National Emerald Mound 424 558, 330-1 St Patrick’s Cathedral Forest 393-4 emergencies 21 CBD 22 77 Dardanelle 429 Empire State Building 71-3 cell phones 646-7 Thorncrown Chapel 431 Dartmouth College 240 Empire State Plaza 138 cemeteries 299, 310-11, Trinity Church (Boston) Dayton 568 Endless Bridge 603 408, 439 182-3 Daytona Beach 490-1 Erie Islands 564-5 Central Park 79, 84-5, 80-1, Trinity Church (New York Dean, James 555 City) 65 Essex 218-19 84-5, 84-5 Dearborn 579-80 Washington National etiquette 53, 642 Chapel Hill 345-6 deer 639 Cathedral 267 Eunice 450-1 Charleston 356-61 DeLand 511 Churchill Downs 387 Eureka Springs 431-2 Charleston County Sea Delaware 293-8 Islands 361-2 Cincinnati 568-71 events 30-4, see also Delaware Water Gap 147 Charlevoix 587 cinema 622, 631-2 individual events, Detroit 12, 572-9, 574, 12 locations 662 Everglades 478-9 Fort Mackinac 588 Hanover 240 Elms, the 211 Everglades City 481-2 Fort Macon 340 Harbor Country 585 Embassy Row 266 Everglades National Park 11, Franconia Notch 237-8 Harpers Ferry 323-4 Empire State Building 331, 478-9, 2, 11 Franklin 377 Hartford 214-16 71-3 exchange rates 21 Franklin, Benjamin 155 Harvard University 183 Faneuil Hall 175, 178 Exorcist Stairs 267 Frederick 292-3 Hatteras Island 333 Flatiron Building 70 Fort Raleigh National INDEX INDEX Fredericksburg 302-4 health 643-4 Freedom Trail 184, 185 heat exhaustion 644 Historic Site 336 F Front Royal 315-16 Hemingway, Ernest 486, Fort Sumter National Fairmount 555 Monument 357 Funks Grove 551 487, 587 E-H Falmouth 194-5  High Country 349-51 Franklin D Roosevelt family travel, see children, Home 131 hiking 46, see also walks  travel with Fredericksburg & G Abingdon 321 Fayetteville 328-9 Spotsylvania National Galax 322 Appalachian Trail 19, 47, Fenway Park 183 Military Park 303 Galena 549-50 316, 19 festivals 30-4, 50, see also Graycliff Estate 143 galleries, see art museums Big Bluff 432 individual festivals, & galleries Hildene 224 locations Blackwater Falls State Historic RCA Studio B gardens, see parks & Park 325 Fifth Avenue 77 gardens 376 Blue Ridge Pkwy 320 films 622, 631-2 Gatlinburg 385-6 Independence Hall 153 Finger Lakes 135-7 C&O Canal National Lincoln Home National gay travelers, see LGBTIQ+ Historic Park 293 Fire Island National travelers Historic Site 550 Seashore 124 Crawford Notch State Little Rock Central High Gemini Giant 551 Park 238 fish 640 School 426 geography 636 Franconia Notch State Flatiron Building 70 Martin House Complex Georgetown 245 Park 238 142-3 Florida 58, 452-515, 454-5 Georgetown University 267 Great Smoky Mountains Martin Luther King Jr accommodations 452 Georgia 394-414 National Park 354 Birthplace 398-9, 15 climate 452 giardiasis 644 Monongahela National Martin Luther King Jr food 452 Gold Coast 14, 583-7, 14 Forest 325 National Historic highlights 454-5 Golden Isles 412-14 Monument Mountain 205 Site 398 travel seasons 452 Graceland 367 Mt Magazine State Maryland State House Florida City 479-80 Park 429 287 Grand Haven 583, 14 Florida Hwy 1 44-5 Mt Nebo State Park 429 Monticello 312 Grand Ole Opry 376, 380, 17 Florida Keys 17, 482-8 New River Gorge National Montpelier 313 Grand Rapids 581-3 River 327 Florida Panhandle 511-15 Mount Vernon 300 Grandfather Mountain Petit Jean State Park 429 New York State Capitol Floyd 321-2 349-50 Shenandoah National 138 Flume Gorge 238, 14 Great Barrington 205-6 Park 316 Old Exchange & Provost folk music 634 Great Lakes 58, 516-614, Sleeping Bear Dunes Dungeon 356 food 26, 50-3, see also 518-19 National­ Lakeshore 585 Old South Meeting individual locations accommodations 516 Superior Hiking Trail 612 House 175 barbecue 51 climate 516 Tamiami Trail 480-1 Old State House 175­ cooking classes 53 food 51-2, 516 Tuckerman Ravine 239 Parthenon 376 costs 52 highlights 518 Hilton Head 362-3 Pentagon 299 etiquette 53 itineraries 535 hip-hop music 635 Petersen House 265 festivals 50 travel seasons 516 historic buildings & sites Pope-Leighey House 300 fish fry 593 Great River Road 40-1 Audubon State Historic Radio City Music Hall 77 Philadelphia ­ Great Smoky Mountains Site 447 Robie House 529 cheesesteak 51, 162, 2 National Park 13, 23, Battleship North Carolina­ Rockefeller Center 73, 76 pizza 539 341 331, 354-5, 13, 330 Rough Point 211 seafood 50-1, 288, 53 Big Pink 135 Green Bay 598-9 Supreme Court 263 supper clubs 593 Biltmore Estate 351 Green County 595 Ulysses S Grant Home vegetarian & vegan Greenbrier Valley 327-9 Breakers, the 211 549 travelers 52 Greenport 127-8 Cahokia Mounds State US Capitol 262-3 football 628-9 Historic Site 552 Greenville 365-6 Vicksburg National Fort Lauderdale 470-4 Gulf Coast 425 Carillon Historical Park Military Park 422 568 forts Gulf Islands National Virginia State Capitol 310 Chrysler Building 76 Castillo de San Marcos Seashore 514 Washington Irving’s National Monument 492 Gullah culture 358 Colonial Michilimackinac Sunnyside 130 588 Fort Adams 211 White House 264 Dana Thomas House 550 Winterthur 296 Dexter Avenue ­Parsonage H Wormsloe Historic Site Hamptons, the 125-6 416 Map Pages 000 408 Ellwood Manor 302-3 Photo Pages 000 hang-gliding 337, 15 Historic Triangle 304-7 663 history 28, 616-25, see also jazz 633-4 Lenox 206-7 Louisiana 432-51 Civil Rights movement Jekyll Island 413-14 lesbian travelers, see Louisiana floods 637 Boston Tea Party 182, 617 Jersey Shore 148-53 LGBTIQ+ travelers Louisiana Purchase 619 British colonialism 617-18 Johns Hopkins University Lewes 294 Louisville 387-90 Civil War 301, 619-20 284 Lexington (Kentucky) 391-2 Lowcountry 361-3 Great Depression 620 Lexington (New England) Lower Hudson Valley Louisiana Purchase 619 192 129-30 INDEX INDEX Native Americans 262, K Lexington (Shenandoah Lower Keys 485 Kancamagus Hwy 236 616, 617, 619 Valley) 317-19 Luray 315-16 kayaking & canoeing 47 Obama presidency 622-4 LGBTIQ+ travelers 645 Lyme disease 644 prehistoric cultures 616 Amelia Island 495-6 Atlanta 403  H-M Revolutionary War 618 Apostle Islands 601 Boston 189  slavery 619-20 Boundary Waters 613 Chicago 545 M Trump presidency 624-5 Buffalo National River Fort Lauderdale 473 Mackinac Island 588 432 Vietnam War 621-2 Miami 469 Mackinaw City 588 Charlotte 347 World War II 620-1 Minneapolis 606 Mad River Valley 226-7 Chicago 531-2 hitchhiking 655 New Orleans 444 Madison 596-7 Cincinnati 569 Hoboken 146 Washington, DC 277 Maine 240-9, 242 Clarksdale 421 holidays 646 Liberty Bell Center 155, 12 Mammoth Cave National Everglades 480, 481 Homestead 479-80 libraries Park 331, 394, 330-1 Key Largo 483 Hopewell people 572 Boston Public Library 183 Mamou 450 Lexington 318 horseback riding 391, 472 Folger Shakespeare Manassas National Little Rock 426 ­Battlefield Park 301 horses 391 Library 264 Logan 571-2 manatees 497-8, 640 hostels 24 Latter Library 435 Ocracoke Island 339 Manchester 232-3 Hot Springs 427-8 Library of Congress 263 Pictured Rocks National Manitou Islands 585 hotels 24 New York Public Library Lakeshore 589 73 Manteo 333 Hudson Valley 129-32 St Simons Island 412 Newberry Library 527 Marathon 484-5 Hudson Yards 23 Tarpon Bay 502 Providence Athenaeum Mardi Gras 31, 439 Huntsville 415 Kelleys Island 564-5 209 markets hurricanes 637 Kentucky 16, 386-94 Woodrow Wilson Ann Arbor 580 Hyannis 195-6 Kentucky Derby 389 ­Presidential Library Boston 190-1 317 Keweenaw Peninsula 590 Burlington 229-30 lighthouses I Key Largo 482-3 Chatham 197-8 Bodie Island Lighthouse ice skating 89, 155, 531 Key West 485-8 Chicago 528 336 Illinois 517-52 Kiawah Island 361 Detroit 573 Kidron 565 Cape Hatteras immigration 626, 649 ­Lighthouse 337 Madison 596 Kill Devil Hills 333 Independence Day 33 Cape May Lighthouse 152 New Orleans 438 Killington 226 Indiana 552-60 Fire Island Lighthouse 124 New York City 67-8, King, BB 421 71, 100 Indiana Dunes 558-9 Horton Point Lighthouse Indiana University 556 King, Martin Luther Jr 15, 128 Marquette 590 255, 367, 398-9, 416 Indianapolis 552-5 Montauk Lighthouse 127 Martha’s Vineyard Kinzua Bridge Skywalk 165-6 Indianola 421 Ocracoke Lighthouse 339 202-3, 197 kiteboarding 337 inns 24 Portland Head Light 243 Martin Luther King Jr Kitty Hawk 333 Institute Woods 146-7 Rockland Breakwater Birthplace 15, 398-9, 15 insurance 643-4, 654 Knoxville 384-5 Lighthouse 246 Martin Luther King Jr internet access 25, 644 Sandy Hook 150 ­National Historic Site 398 internet resources 21, 23, Saugerties Lighthouse 135 L Maryland 280-93 56, 628, 645 Split Rock Lighthouse 612 Lafayette 448-9 Mashomack Nature Islamorada 483-4, 17 Lake George 139-40 Lincoln (New England) 237 Preserve 128 Isle of Palms 361 Lake Martin 450 Lincoln, Abraham 251, Massachusetts 171-208 550, 558 Isle Royale 639 Lake of the Clouds 591 Massachusetts Institute of Ithaca 136-7 Lake Placid 140-1 Lincoln Center 83 Technology 185 itineraries 35-8, see also Lake Pontchartrain 446 Lincoln Hwy 41-3 Massachusetts State individual locations Lakes Region 234 Lincoln Memorial 251, 9 House 174 Lake Superior 611 Litchfield Hills 216-17 Mayflower II 194 literature 630-1, 632 J Lancaster County 164, 16 medical services 644 Jackson 422-3 languages 20 Little Rock 425-7 memorials, see monuments & memorials Jacksonville 493-5 Lansing 580-1 lobsters 50-1, 53 James Island 361 Leesburg 303 Logan 571-2 Memphis 366-73, 368, 370 Jamesport 127 legal matters 644-5 Long Island 123-9 Mercer-Williams House 408, Jamestown 305-6 lemurs 344 Lookout Mountain 383 27 664 Miami 13, 22, 453-70, 458, Jefferson Memorial 258-9 Automotive Hall of Ford Rouge Factory Tour 460, 13, 42 Kunta Kinte-Alex Haley Fame 579 579-80 accommodations 466-7 Memorial 287 Backstreet Cultural Ford’s Theatre Center activities 463-5 Lincoln Memorial 251, 9 Museum 434-5 for Education & ­Leadership 265 children, travel with 463 Lost at Sea Memorial 127 BB King Museum & Delta Interpretive Center 421 Fort William Henry drinking & nightlife 468-9 Martin Luther King Jr Museum 139 Memorial 255 Benjamin Franklin INDEX INDEX entertainment 469-70 Museum 155 Frank Lloyd Wright Home festivals & events 465-6 National Memorial for & Studio 548 Peace & Justice 416-17 Birmingham Civil Rights food 467-8 Institute 414 Franklin D Roosevelt history 453 National September 11 Home 131 M Memorial 65 Bennington Museum 224  itineraries 457 Boston Tea Party Ships & Freedom House Museum  National WWII Memorial 300-1 LGBTIQ+ travelers 469 259 Museum 182, 18 Freer | Sackler 262 safety 470 Pilgrim Monument 199 Brooklyn Museum 87 sights 453-63 Busy Beaver Button Gerald R Ford Museum Stonewall National 581 tourist offices 470 Monument 69 Museum 529 tours 465 Cabildo 434 Gilmore Car Museum Strawberry Fields 83 579 travel to/from 470 Vietnam Veterans Carnegie Museum of Natural History 167 Gold Coast Railroad travel within 470 ­Memorial 254-5 Museum 463 walking tour 464, 464 Washington Monument Center for Civil & Human Rights 394-5 Grand Ole Opry House Michigan 572-91 (Baltimore) 283 Center for PostNatural 376, 380, 17 Middleburg 303 Washington Monument (Washington, DC) 255 History 167 Graveyard of the Atlantic Millersburg 565 Museum 337 Wright Brothers National Center for Puppetry Milwaukee 591-4 Memorial 336 Arts 395 Great Lakes Science Center 561 Minneapolis 602-8, 604-5 moose 636-7, 639 Charleston Museum 357 Greenfield Village 579 Minnesota 602-14 Morehead City 340 Chatham Shark Center Gulf Coast Exploreum Minute Man National Morrilton 429 196-7 Historic Park 192 418-19 motels 24 Chicago Architecture Mississippi 419-25 Center 521 Hammond Harwood motorcycle travel 651, 653-5 House 287 Mississippi Delta 420-2 Chicago Children’s Mount Desert Island 248 Harley-Davidson Museum Mitchell, Margaret 398 Museum 532 Mount Vernon 300 592 Mobile 418-19 Chicago History Museum Mountain View 430-1 528 Harriet Beecher Stowe mobile phones 646-7 Mt Airy 292-3 Children’s Museum of Center 215 Mohonk Preserve 130 Mt Baldhead 584 Indianapolis 553 Hemingway House 486 monasteries 135 Mt Monadnock 233 Concord Museum 193 Henry Ford Museum 579 money 20, 21, 24, 52, 54, Mt Tremper 133-4 Connecticut Science Historic New Orleans 643, 645-6 Mt Washington 238, 239 Center 215 Collection 434 Monongahela Incline 166 Mummers Parade 30, COSI 566 Historic Tredegar 310 Monongahela National Country Music Hall of Historic Village at Allaire Forest 325-7 158-9, 31 Fame & Museum 375 148 Montauk 126-7 museums 27, see also art museums & galleries, Delta Blues Museum 421 HistoryMiami 457 Montgomery 416-17 sports museums Driehaus Museum 526 Illinois Holocaust Montpelier 227-8 4-H Tidelands Nature Dumbarton Oaks 267 Museum 548 monuments & memorials Center 413 DuSable Museum of Immigration Museum 61 African American Civil Acadian Village 448 African American International Spy War Memorial 265-6 Adler Planetarium 523 History 529 Museum 265 Bennington Battle Air Mobility Command East Hampton Town James Monroe Museum Monument 223-4 Museum 297 Marine Museum 125 & Memorial Library 303 Bunker Hill Monument Amazing World of Dr Emily Dickinson Museum 179 Seuss 204 205 Jewish Museum 78-9 Civil Rights Memorial American Black Empire State Railway John Dickinson Center 417 ­Holocaust Museum Museum 133 ­Plantation 297 Fort McHenry National 592 Eudora Welty House John F Kennedy Hyannis Monument & Historic American Civil War 423 Museum 195 Shrine 283 ­Museum – ­Appomattox Evergreen Museum 284 Johnny Cash Museum & Franklin Delano Roosevelt­ 315 Fernbank Museum of Store 376 Memorial 262 American Museum of Natural History 395 Kennedy Space Center George Washington Natural History 82-3 Field Museum of Natural 488 Masonic National American Revolution History 523, 10 Kurt Vonnegut Museum Memorial 301 & Library 553 Museum at Yorktown Flagler Museum 474 306 Landis Valley Museum 165 Florida Keys History of Art Deco Museum 456 Diving Museum 484 Levine Museum of the Map Pages New South 347 000 Auburn Cord Duesenberg­ Ford Piquette Avenue Photo Pages 000 Museum 560 Plant 575 Lightner Museum 492 665 Lincoln Presidential National Civil Rights Peabody Essex Museum USS Alabama 418 Library & Museum 550 Museum 367 193 USS Constitution Little Traverse History National Geographic Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum 179 Museum 587 Museum 266 Museum 532 Vermilionville 448 Louisiana Children’s National Great Blacks in Penn Center 363 Villa Zorayda Museum Museum 435 Wax Museum 282 Plimoth Plantation 193-4 492 Lower East Side National Museum of Poe Museum 310 Vizcaya Museum & INDEX INDEX ­Tenement Museum 69 ­African American Pollock-Krasner House Gardens 462 Lower Mississippi River ­History & Culture 255 125 White House Visitor Museum 422 National Museum of Port Discovery 282 Center 264 American History 258 Lowndes County Prairie Acadian Cultural William J Clinton  M-N ­Interpretive Center 418 National Museum of Civil Center 451 ­Presidential Center

 War Medicine 292 Maine Maritime Museum Railroad Museum of 426 245 National Museum of Pennsylvania 164 Willie Dixon’s Blues Margaret Mitchell House ­Natural History 255, Heaven 527 258 RE Olds Transportation & Museum 398 Museum 579 Willie Nelson & Friends Mark Twain House & National Museum of the Museum Showcase American Indian 262 Ripley’s Believe it or Not! Museum 215 150-1 376-7 Martin Luther King Jr National Museum of the Women’s Rights US Air Force 568 River Road African National Historic ­American Museum 447 National Historical Site 398 National Mustard Park 137 Museum 596 Rock & Roll Hall of Fame Maryland Historical & Museum 561 World of Coca-Cola 395 Society 283 National Naval Aviation Wright Museum 235 Museum 514 Sag Harbor Whaling & Maryland Science Center Historical Museum 125 Ybor City Museum State 282 National Railroad Park 497 Museum 599 Scott & Zelda Fitzgerald Memphis Rock ’n’ Soul Museum 417 music 43, 321, 578, 633-5 Museum 367 National September 11 Muskegon 584 Memorial Museum 65 Selma Interpretive Met Cloisters 83 Center 418 Myrtle Beach 363-5 Mexican Cultural National Toy Train Museum 164-5 Shaker Village of Mystic 217-18 ­Institute 266 ­Pleasant Hill 393 National Underground Miami Children’s Shelburne Museum 230 Museum 463 Railroad Freedom Center 569 Shore Line Trolley N Millyard Museum 232 Nags Head 333, National Women’s Hall of Museum 220 15 Mint Museum Randolph Slave Haven Underground­ Nantucket 200-2, 347 Fame 137 197 National WWII Museum Railroad Museum/ Naples 502-4 Mississippi Civil Rights Burkle Estate 369 Museum 422 439 NASCAR Racing Experience­ Nauticus 307 Songbirds 382-3 490 Motown Historical South Florida Science Museum 575 Naval Station Norfolk Nashville (Indiana) 556-7 307 Center & Aquarium Nashville (Tennessee) 17, Muhammad Ali Center 476 387 New York State Museum 373-82, 374-5 138 Southampton History Museum of Art & History Museum 125 Natchez 424-5 Newseum 265 at the Custom House Spam Museum 609 Natchez Trace Pkwy 43-4, 485 North Carolina Maritime 424 Museum 340 Stax Museum of Museum of Discovery & ­American Soul Music national & state parks 26, Science 471 North Carolina Museum 367 48, 331, 638, see also of History 343 parks & gardens Museum of Mississippi Steven F Udvar-Hazy History 423 North Carolina Museum Center 254 Acadia National Park 10, Museum of Science 178 of Natural Sciences 247-8, 331, 10, 330 343 Strawbery Banke Museum of Science & Museum 233 Appomattox Court House O. Winston Link Museum National Historic Industry 529 Studebaker National 319-20 Park 314 Museum of the American Museum 560 Ocean City Life-Saving Assateague State Park Revolution 154 Tallahassee Automobile Station Museum 290 290 Museum of the Bizarre & Collectibles Museum 341 Old Fort Niagara 145 511-12 Bahia Honda State Park 485 Museum of the Old Rhinebeck Tallahassee Museum 511 ­Aerodrome 132 Barataria Preserve 446 ­Everglades 481 Telfair Academy 408 Old Slave Mart Museum Berkeley Springs State Mütter Museum 154-5 Tennessee State Museum 356 Park 324-5 Mystic Seaport Museum 376 Osborn-Jackson House Bill Baggs Cape Florida 217 Titanic Museum 386 125 State Park 463 Nantucket Whaling Titanic: the Artifact Oscar Getz Museum of Biscayne National Park Museum 201 Exhibition 505 Whiskey History 388 479 National Air & Space Tudor Place 267 Museum 251, 254, 27 Parris Island Museum Blackwater Falls State 363 United States Holocaust National Archives 264-5 Park 325 Patricia & Phillip Frost Memorial Museum 263 National Automotive & Brandywine Creek State Museum of Science 459 US Space & Rocket Park 296 Truck Museum 560 Center 415 666 national & state parks Kelleys Islands State New England 57, 170-249, 82, 94-5, 103-4, 110, continued Park 564-5 172-3 119, 80-1 Canaveral National Lake Dardanelle State accommodations 170 Upper Manhattan 83, 86, Seashore 489 Park 429 climate 170 105, 111, 120 Cape Henlopen State Leonard Harrison State food 50-1, 170 Upper West Side 82-3, Park 294 Park 165 highlights 172-3 95, 104-5, 110-11, Cape May Point State Mammoth Cave National ­119-20, 80-1

INDEX INDEX history 171 Park 152 Park 331, 394, 330-1 travel seasons 170 walking tour 90, 90 Cherry Springs State Marsh-Billings-­ West Village 65, 67-9, 92-3, Park 165 New Hampshire 232-40, 223 Rockefeller National 98-9, 108-9, 117, New Haven 219-21 70-1 N-P Chicot State Park 450-1 Historical Park 225  New York State 57, 123-45, C&O Canal National Minute Man National New Jersey 57, 145-53, 62-3

62-3  Historic Park 293 Historic Park 192 New London 218 Newport 211-13 Colt State Park 214 Montauk Point State New Orleans 11, 433-46, Park 127 Niagara Falls 18, 144-5, 18 Congaree National Park 436-7, 440, 11 nightlife 28 364 Mt Magazine State New Paltz 130-1 Crawford Notch State Park 429 Norfolk 307-8 New River 327-9, Park 238 Mt Monadnock State 19 North Adams 207 New River Gorge National Cumberland Falls State Park 233 North Carolina 333-55 River 327-8 Resort Park 393 Mt Nebo State Park 429 North Carolina Mountains New York City 9, 23, 57,­ Cuyahoga Valley National Natural Bridge State 348-54 ­61-123, 64, 74-5, 8-9 Park 563 Park 318 North Fork 127-8 accommodations 91-6 Dry Tortugas National Natural Bridge State North Shore 611-13 Park 49 Resort Park 394 activities 88-90 North Woodstock 237 Everglades National Park Newport State Park 600 Bronx, the 88, 112-13, 121 Northampton 203-4 11, 331, 478-9, 2, 11 Ozark Folk Center State Brooklyn 86-8, 95-6, Fakahatchee Strand Park 430 105-7, 111-12, 120-1 Preserve 480 Petit Jean State Park Chelsea 65, 67-9, 92-3, O Fort Adams State Park 429 98-9, 108-9, 117, 74-5 Oak Park 548 211 Porcupine Mountains Chinatown 65, 92, 97-8, Obama, Barack 531, 622-4 Wilderness State Fort Clinch State Park 108, 117, 66-7 Ocean City 290-1 495 Park 591 drinking & nightlife 107-13 Ocean Grove 148-9 Fort Macon State Park 340 Robert H Treman State East Village 69-70, 93, 99- Ocracoke Island 339-40 Franconia Notch State Park 136 101, 109, 117-18, 70-1 Ogunquit 241 Park 237-8 Robert Moses State Park 124 entertainment 113-16 Ohio 560-72 Grafton Notch State festivals & events 91 Park 249 Shenandoah National Ohio River 558 Park 316, 331, 331 Financial District 61, 91-2, Old Cahawba Great Smoky Mountains 96-7, 107-8, 116-17 National Park 13, 23, Split Rock Lighthouse ­Archaeological Park 418 food 50, 96-107 331, 354-5, 13, 330 State Park 612 Old North Bridge 192-3 Stonewall National Gramercy 70-1, 93, 101-2, One World Observatory Hammonasset Beach 109-10, 118 State Park 219 Monument 69 61, 65 Table Rock State Park Harlem 83, 86, 95, 105, Opelousas 450-1 Hawks Nest State Park 111, 120 328 365 opening hours 646 Unicoi State Park 407 Lower East Side 69-70, Hocking Hills State 93, 99-101, 109, 117-18 Orlando 504-6, 508 Park 571 Vogel State Park 407 Lower Manhattan 61, 65, Outer Banks 14, 333, 336-9 Hopewell Culture Voyageurs National Park 91-2, 96-7, 107-8, Oxford 419-20 National Historical 613-14 116-17, 66-7 Ozark Mountains 430-2 Park 572 Whirlpool State Park 145 Meatpacking District Hot Springs National White River State Park Park 427 65, 67-9, 92-3, 98-9, 553 108-9, 117 P Hunting Island State Windley Key Fossil Reef Midtown 71-3, 76-8, 93-4, painting 630 Park 363 Geological State 102-3, 110, 118-19, Paisley Park 603 Indiana Dunes National Site 484 74-5 Queens 88, 112, 121 Palm Beach 474-7 Park 559 National Archives 264-5 safety 121 panthers 638 Island Beach State Park National Cherry Blossom Paris 429 149-50 Festival 31, 269, shopping 116-21 31 parks & gardens, see also Isle Royale National National Mall 9, 251, 254-5, sights 61-88 Park 590 national & state parks 258-62, 260-1, 9, SoHo 65, 92, 97-8, 108, 117 Jamaica State Park 48 Airlie Gardens 341 260-1 tourist offices 121 John Pennekamp Coral tours 89 Atlanta Botanical Garden National September 11 395 Reef State Park 483 travel to/from 121-3 Memorial 65 Battery & White Point Native Americans 262, 616, travel within 123 Garden 356 617, 619 Union Square 70-1, 93, Belle Isle Park 573 Map Pages 000 101-2, 109-10, 118 natural disasters 637 Brookgreen Gardens Photo Pages 000 Navy Pier 523, 5 Upper East Side 78-9, 364 667 Brooklyn Botanic State Botanical Garden plants 636 Savannah 408-12, 410 Garden 87 of Georgia 406 Plymouth 193-4 scenic drives 39-45, 41 Brooklyn Bridge Park 86 Tompkins Square Park 70 podcasts 23 Acadia National Park 248 Bryant Park 77 Vulcan Park 414-15 population 23, 626-7 Blue Ridge Pkwy 16, Campus Martius Park Washington Square Park Portland 241, 243-5 39-40, 320, 349, 16 68-9 573, 12 Portsmouth 233-4 Brockway Mountain Cave Point County Park Parton, Dolly 385 postal services 646 Drive 590 INDEX 599-600 passports 647, 649 Poughkeepsie 131-2 Crooked Road 321 Central Park 79, 84-5, Peaks of Otter 320 Presley, Elvis 367, 369, 634 Florida Hwy 1 44-5 , , 80-1 84-5 84-5 Peanut Island 476 Prince 603 Foothills Pkwy 354 Chimney Rock Park 351  P-S Pelee Island 565 Princeton 146-7 Great River Road 40-1

 (City Park (New Orleans Pennsylvania 57, 153-69, Princeton University 147 Highland Scenic Hwy 326 435 62-3 Providence 209-11 Hwy 13 601 Coolidge Park 383 Pennsylvania Dutch Provincetown 198-200 Hwy 61 612 Cornell Botanic Gardens ­Country 16, 164-5, 16 136 public holidays 646 Kancamagus Hwy 236 Pennsylvania Wilds 165-6 Lincoln Hwy 41-3 Crescent Park 438 Pensacola 513-15 Dumbarton Oaks 267 Mt Magazine Scenic Pentagon 299 Q Byway 429 Fairchild Tropical Garden Petoskey 587 Quechee 225-6 462 Mt Washington Auto Philadelphia 12, 153-64, Road 239 Forsyth Park 408 156-7, 160, 12 Natchez Trace Pkwy Fort Williams Park 243 Phippsburg 245 R 43-4, 424 Frederik Meijer Gardens Racine 595 Phoenicia 133-4 Pensacola Scenic Bluffs & Sculpture Park 581 Radio City Music Hall 77 phonecards 647 Hwy 514 Garvan Woodland rafting 47-8, 327, 328, 347, Pictured Rocks National Skyline Dr 316 Gardens 428 429, 19 Lakeshore 589 Whiteface Veteran’s Georgetown Waterfront railways 133, 219, 238, 563 Piedmont, the 309-15 ­Memorial Hwy 140 Park 267 Raleigh 343-4 Pigeon Forge 385-6 sea turtles 413, 489, 639 High Line 65, 67 Red Cliff 601 Pinkham Notch 239-40 seafood 50-1, 288, 53 Hudson River Park 68 Rehoboth Beach 295 Pioneer Valley 203-5 Seaside Heights 149 Ijams Nature Center 384 religion 626-7 Pittsburgh 166-9 Selma 417-18 Independence National resorts 24 Historical Park 153-4 planning Seneca Falls 137 Rhinebeck 132 Kentucky Horse Park 391 accommodations 24-5 Seneca Rocks 325 Rhode Island 208-14 Lake Leatherwood City activities 46-9 senior travelers 643 Richmond 310-12 Park 431 budgeting 21 Serpent Mound 572 ridesharing 655 LeFrak Center at calendar of events 30-4 Shelburne Farms 229 road trips, see scenic drives ­Lakeside 89 Eastern USA basics 20-1 Shelter Island 127-8 Roanoke 319-20, 618 Lincoln Park 528 Eastern USA’s regions Shenandoah Valley 315-19 Louis Armstrong Park 435 57-8 Roanoke Island 333 Singer Castle 141-2 Madison Square Park 70-1 family travel 54-6 rock climbing 130, 325 skating 465 Mary Ann Brown food 50-3 rock music 367, 561, 634-5 skiing 49 ­Preserve 447 internet resources 21 Rockefeller Center 73, 76 Belleayre Mountain 133 Máximo Gómez Park 461 itineraries 35-8 Rockland 246-7 Hunter Mountain 134 Millennium Park 521 repeat visitors 22-3 Rockwell, Norman 206 Killington Resort 226 Minneapolis Sculpture Route 66 45, 521, 551 road trips 39-45, 41 Mad River Glen 226 Garden 603 Rowan Oak 420 travel seasons 20, 30, 31, Porcupine Mountain Ski Naples Botanical 32, 33, 34 Russellville 429 Area 591 ­Gardens 503 plantations Snowshoe Mountain National Gallery of Art Resort 326 Sculpture Garden 255 Berkeley Plantation 306 S Stowe 226, 228, New York Botanical Boone Hall Plantation 358 safety 654-5 49 Garden 88 Drayton Hall 357 Sag Harbor 125 Voyageurs National Park 614 Northerly Island 523 Historic Stagville Salem 193 Sleeping Bear Dunes Olbrich Botanical ­Plantation 344 Sandwich 194 National Lakeshore Gardens 596 Laura Plantation 446-7 Sandy Hook Gateway 585-6 Piedmont Park 398 Magnolia Plantation 357 National Recreation Sloss Furnaces 414 Prospect Park 86 McLeod Plantation 361 Area 150 Smith College 204 Public Garden (Boston) Middleton Place 357 Sanibel Island 501-2 Smith Island 281 174 Monticello 312 Saranac Lake 140 Smithsonian Castle 262 Rose Kennedy Montpelier 313 Sarasota 500-1 smoking 642, 646 Greenway 175 Myrtles Plantation 447 Saugatuck 584-5 Smugglers Notch 228 Shelby Farms Park 369 Oakley Plantation 447 Saugerties 135 snakes 639-40 Shofuso Japanese House Shirley Plantation 306 Sault Ste Marie 589 & Garden 155 snorkeling 479 Whitney Plantation 446 668 snowmobiling 614 T volunteering 648 wildlife 636-40 soft drinks 53 Taliesin 597 Vonnegut, Kurt 553 wildlife reserves South Bend 559-60 Tallahassee 511-13 Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge 297 South Carolina 355-66 Tallulah Gorge 407 W South Shore 124-5 Tamiami Trail 480-1 Chincoteague National walks, see also hiking Wildlife Refuge 290 South, the 58, 332-451, Tampa 497-9 Birmingham Civil Rights Cypress Creek National

INDEX INDEX 334-5 Tanglewood Music Festival Memorial Trail 415 Wildlife Refuge 552 accommodations 332 206 Boston 184, 184 Duke Lemur Center 344 climate 332 Tannersville 134 Chicago 530, 530 Everglades Outpost food 51, 332 taxes 646 S-Z Cliff Walk 212 479-80  highlights 334-5 taxis 655 Cotton Valley Rail Trail Georgia Sea Turtle itineraries 337 telephone services 646-7 235 Center 413  travel seasons 332 Tennessee 366-86 Miami 464, 464 JN ‘Ding’ Darling National Space Coast 488-90 theater 28-9, 631 Wildlife Refuge 502 New Orleans 440, 440 Sperryville 303 theme parks, see Laura Quinn Wild Bird New River Gorge National ­amusement & Sanctuary 483 sports 628-9 River 328 ­waterparks Louisiana Universities sports museums Walt Disney World® Resort Thousand Islands 141-2 ­Marine Consortium 450 Carolina Basketball 19, 506-8, 19 Museum 346 time 647 Manatee Viewing Center Washington, DC 23, 58, Chicago Sports Museum Times Square 73 497-8 251-80, 256-7 527-8 tipping 121, 646 Merritt Island National accommodations 269-71 College Football Hall of toilets 647 Wildlife Refuge 488-9 activities 268 Fame 395 Top of the Rock 77-8 Okefenokee National drinking & nightlife 275-8 Wildlife Refuge 47 Green Bay Packers Hall tourist information 647 entertainment 278-9 Pea Island National of Fame 599 train travel 651, 655 festivals & events 269 Wildlife Refuge 336 Indianapolis Motor travel to/from Canada 650 Speedway 553 food 271-5 Wildwood 151-2 travel to/from Eastern USA Williamsburg 304-5 Kentucky Derby Museum 649-51 history 251 387 Williamstown 207-8 travel within Eastern USA itineraries 254 Louisville Slugger 21, 651-5 LGBTIQ+ travelers 277 Willis Tower 521 ­Museum & Factory 387 Traverse City 586 sights 9, 251-68 Wilmington (Delaware) 296 NASCAR Hall of Fame trekking, see hiking tourist offices 279 Wilmington (North 347 ­Carolina) 341-2 Triangle, the 342-6 tours 268-9 National Sporting Wingspread 595 Tri-Peaks Region 428-30 travel to/from 279-80 Museum 303 Wisconsin 591-602 Tuckerman Ravine 239 travel within 280 Women’s Basketball Hall Wolfeboro 235-6 of Fame 384 TV 631-2 Washington & Lee wolves 639 Spring Green 597 ­University 318 women travelers 648 Springfield (Illinois) 550-1 water, drinking 644 U water parks, see Woodstock (New York Springfield ­(Massachusetts) Universal Orlando Resort 204 ­amusement & water State) 134-5, 13 508-11 parks St Augustine 491-3 Woodstock (Vermont) 225-6 University of North Carolina­ waterfalls Woodstock Festival 621, 622 St Francisville 447-8 345 Amicalola Falls 405 work 648 St Helena Island 358 University of Virginia 312-13 Arethusa Falls 238 WWII 620-1 St Paul 608-9 Upcountry 365-6 Kaaterskill Falls 134 Wright brothers 336 St Petersburg 499-500 Upper Peninsula 588-91 Niagara Falls 18, 144-5, 18 Wright, Frank Lloyd St Simons Island 412 US Capitol 262-3 Statue of Liberty 61 Sabbaday Falls 236 architecture 300, 529, US Naval Academy 287 550, 595 Staunton 316-17 WaterFire 209-10 USS Constitution 179 homes 548, 597 Stillwater 609 weather 20, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, see also individual trails 549 Stockbridge 206 V regions Wrigley Field 528 Stowe 226, 228-9, 49 vacations 646 websites, see internet Straits of Mackinac 587-8 vaccinations 644 resources Sugarcreek 565 Weedon Island Preserve 499 Y vegetarian & vegan Yale University 219 Sullivan’s Island 361 travelers 52 Weirs Beach 234-5 Yankee Stadium 88 Sun Studio 367 Wellfleet 198 Vermont 221-32, 223 Yellow Springs 567-8 Sunken Forest 124 Welty, Eudora 423 Vicksburg 422 Yorktown 306-7 Super Bowl 629 Ville Platte 450 West Nile Virus 644 surfing 48, 126, 465 vineyards 216, 309, 405, 586 West Palm Beach 476-7 Virginia 298-322 West Virginia 19, 322-9 Z Virginia Beach 308-9 whales 199, 620, 640 Zika virus 644 Map Pages 000 Virginia Military Institute 318 White House 264 zoos 79, 88, 267-8, 282, 463, 602 Photo Pages 000 visas 647-8 White Mountains 14, 236-40 Whiteface Mountain 140 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 669

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Eating Parking Glacier Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Park/Forest Cafe Train station/Railway Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd interest – she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia for Lonely Planet – but she also covers Finland, Bali, Armenia, the Netherlands, the USA and Australia. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.

Hugh McNaughtan New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applica- tions for visa applications, and turned his love of travel into a full-time thing. Having done a bit of ­restaurant-reviewing in his home town (Melbourne) he’s now eaten his way across four continents. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field…

MaSovaida Morgan The South MaSovaida is a Lonely Planet writer and multimedia storyteller whose wanderlust has taken her to more than 35 countries across six continents. Prior to freelancing, she was Lonely ­Planet’s Destination Editor for South America for four years and worked as an editor for newspapers and NGOs in the Middle East and United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida.

Lorna Parkes New York City Londoner by birth, Melburnian by palate and former Lonely Planet staffer in both cities, Lorna has contributed to numerous Lonely Planet books and magazines. She’s discovered she writes best on planes, and is most content when researching food and booze. Wineries and the tropics (not at the same time!) are her go-to happy places, but Yorkshire will always be special to her. Follow her @Lorna_Explorer.

Kevin Raub Great Lakes, The South Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written nearly 50 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Along the way, the confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad).

Simon Richmond Pennsylvania Journalist and photographer Simon has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s, covering countries including Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. He has lived in the UK, Japan and Australia, and is now based back in the UK in Folkestone on the east Kent coast. His travel features have been published in newspapers and magazines around the world, including in the UK’s Independ- ent, Guardian, Times, Daily Telegraph and Royal Geographical Society Magazine, and in Australia’s Sydney Morning Herald and Australian newspapers and Australian Financial Review magazine.

Benedict Walker New England Born in Newcastle, Australia, Ben holds notions of the beach core to his idea of self, though he’s traveled thousands of miles from the sandy shores of home to live in Leipzig, Germany. Ben was given his first Lonely Planet guide when he was 12. Two decades later, he’d write chapters for the same publication: a dream come true. A communications graduate and travel agent by trade, Ben whittled away his twenties gallivanting around the globe. He thinks the best thing about travel isn’t as much where you go as who you meet: living vicariously through the stories of kind strangers enriches one’s own experience. Come along for the ride on Instagram @wordsandjourneys.

Greg Ward The South Since whetting his appetite for travel by following the hippie trail to India, and later living in northern Spain, Greg has written guides to destinations all over the world. As well as covering the USA from the Southwest to Hawaii, he has ranged on recent assignments from Corsica to the Cotswolds, and Japan to Corfu. See his website, www.gregward.info, for his favorite photos and memories.

Karla Zimmerman Great Lakes, The South, Washington, DC Karla lives in Chicago, where she eats doughnuts and yells at the Cubs, and writes stuff for books, magazines and websites when she’s not doing the first two things. She has contributed to 70-plus guidebooks and travel anthologies covering destinations in Europe, Asia, Africa, North America and the Caribbean. To learn more, follow her @karlazimmerman on Instagram and Twitter.

Other contributors Barbara Noe Kennedy contributed to the Washington, DC section. Lonely Planet Tennessee staff Ben Buckner, Evan Godt, Alicia Johnson, Alexander Howard, Bailey Freeman and Sarah Stocking contributed to the Nashville section. Charles Rawlings-Way curated the Great Lakes chapter, and Martine Power curated the Florida chapter. ­organisations. Find him on Instagram and Twitter @markbakerprague, and his blog at www.mark bakerprague.com.

Amy C Balfour Capital Region, New England, The South Amy practiced law in Virginia before moving to Los Angeles to try to break in as a screenwriter. After a stint as a writer’s assistant on Law & Order, she jumped into freelance writing, focusing on travel, food and the outdoors. She has hiked, biked and paddled across Southern California and the Southwest, and recently criss-crossed the Great Plains in search of the region’s best burgers and barbecue. She has written many books for Lonely Planet and her essays have appeared in the Los Angeles Times and Southern Living, and the travel anthologies Go Your Own Way and The Thong Also Rises.

Robert Balkovich New England, New York State Robert was born and raised in Oregon, but has called New York City home for almost a decade. When he was a child and other families were going to theme parks and grandma’s house, he went to Mexico City and toured Eastern Europe by train. He’s now a writer and travel enthusiast seeking experiences that are ever so slightly out of the ordinary to report back on. Follow on Instagram @oh_balky.

Ray Bartlett Florida Ray has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, Tan- zania, Guatemala, Indonesia, and many parts of the USA to life in rich detail for publishers, news­ papers and magazines. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Instagram and Twitter @kaisoradotcom.

Jade Bremner The South Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try, and it’s no coincidence many of her favorite places have some of the best waves in the world. Jade has edited travel magazines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times and has contributed to the Times, CNN and the Independent. She feels privileged to share tales from this wonderful planet we call home and is always looking for the next adventure.

Gregor Clark New England Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of ­countries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas.

Ashley Harrell The South After a brief stint selling day spa coupons door-to-door in South Florida, Ashley decided she’d rather be a writer. She went to journalism grad school, convinced a newspaper to hire her, and starting covering wildlife, crime and tourism, sometimes all in the same story. Fueling her zest for storytelling and the unknown, she traveled widely and moved often, from a tiny NYC apartment to a vast California ranch to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where she started writing for Lonely Planet.

Adam Karlin New England, Pennsylvania, The South Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks, covering an alphabetical spread that ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe border. As a journalist, he has written on travel, crime, politics, archeology and the Sri Lankan Civil War, among other topics. He has sent dispatches from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!) and his essays and articles have featured on the BBC and NPR, and in multiple non-fiction anthologies. Adam is based out of New Orleans. Learn more at http://walkonfine.com, or follow @adamwalkonfine on Instagram.

Brian Kluepfel New England, New Jersey Brian had lived in three states and seven different residences by the time he was nine, and just kept moving, making stops in Berkeley, Bolivia, the Bronx and the ‘burbs further down the line. His journalistic work across the Americas has ranged from the Copa America soccer tournament in Paraguay to an accordion festival in Québec. His titles for Lonely Planet include Costa Rica, Bolivia and Ecuador. He writes a blog about Venezuelan baseball players and another regarding birds of many nations called www.brianbirdwatching.blogspot.com.

Vesna Maric Florida Vesna has been a Lonely Planet author for nearly two decades, covering places as far and wide as Bolivia, Algeria, Sicily, Cyprus, Barcelona, London and Croatia, among others. Her latest work has been updating Florida, Greece and North Macedonia.

Virginia Maxwell Washington, DC, Virginia Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year up- dating Lonely Planet destination coverage across the globe. The Mediterranean is her major area of AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Trisha Ping A year working abroad in Mulhouse, France, and a fascination with languages turned Trisha into a lifelong traveler. Over her 15-year career as a writer and editor, she spent two years as a Destination Editor at Lonely Planet and is now the publisher of BookPage. She lives in Nashville, Tennessee. Trisha researched and curated the Plan Your Trip, Understand Eastern USA and Survival Guide chapters.

Ali Lemer New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania Ali has been a Lonely Planet writer and editor since 2007, and has authored guidebooks and travel articles on Russia, NYC, Los Angeles, Melbourne, Bali, Hawaii, Japan and Scotland. A native New Yorker and naturalized Melburnian, Ali has also lived in Chicago, Prague and the UK, and has traveled extensively around Europe and North America.

Regis St Louis New England, The South Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans.

Mara Vorhees New England, Washington, DC & the Capital Region Mara writes about food, travel and family fun around the world. Her work has been published by BBC Travel, Boston Globe, Delta Sky, the Van- couver Sun and more. For Lonely Planet, she regularly writes about destinations in Central America and Eastern Europe, as well as New England, where she lives. She often travels with her twin boys in tow, earning her expertise in family travel. Follow their adventures at ­www.havetwinswilltravel.com. Isabel Albiston New England After six years working for the Daily Telegraph in London, Isabel left to spend more time on the road. A job as a writer for a magazine in Sydney, Australia, was followed by a four- month overland trip across Asia and five years living and working in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Isabel started writing for Lonely Planet in 2014 and has contributed to more than a dozen guidebooks. She’s currently based in Ireland.

Mark Baker Great Lakes Mark is a freelance travel writer with a penchant for offbeat stories and forgotten places. He’s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the Czech capital, Prague. He writes mainly on Eastern and Central Europe for Lonely Planet as well as other leading travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are too remote or quirky for the guides. Prior to becoming an author, he worked as a journalist for the Economist, ­Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among other OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 5th edition – Apr 2020 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78701 824 2 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 2020 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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