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Special Report How Do 55 National U.S. and Canadian national parks today face modern eler pressures inside and outside their borders—pollution, av budget cuts, development, soaring visitation, ecological Tr ›› decline. TRAVELER’s expert panelists grade the condition of park destinations, including the gateway towns you visit on the way in and out. Some parks do better than others. One country does better than the other. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot

80 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELER Scorecard Park Regions Rate? Read On.

Fragile desert surfaces near Utah’s Arches and Canyonlands National Parks take a pounding from high-intensity activities such as this four-wheeler contest. The area missed getting a high score due to off-road abuses in the desert and off-putting development in Moab, the gateway town. Heating up in a cool climate (left), a visitor soaks in a hot spring in top-scoring Gwaii Haanas National Park, British Columbia. changing demographics. “Spectacular coast- line, villages seem authentic, and the area is fairly unspoiled.” “Tourism is built on the Celtic and French heritage of the island.” “The park’s Audubon-certified golf course The List is a model for collaborative action between

Scorecard Park scores on the Stewardship Index range from a near- conservation and recreation.” pristine 88 in British Columbia to a near-death 34 in Florida. Gros Morne National Park F YOU VISIT A NATIONAL PARK, you’ll often spend plenty of time just outside the park, NEWFOUNDLAND, CANADA (Score: 78) The too—eating, sleeping, parking, shopping, sightseeing—in the town or region that geogra- geological, scenic landscape of Gros Morne phers call the gateway. A park and its gateway are really a single destination, with simi- receives praise, despite grazing problems lar history, scenery, and climate. The way park and gateway interact can make all the with nonnative moose.“I’ve never felt more difference in the quality of your trip and in the sustainability of the destination. • Using welcome anywhere in North America.” the same Stewardship Index pioneered in last year’s global Destination Scorecard (March “A model of the collaborative actions of 2004), TRAVELER and National Geographic’s Center for Sustainable Destinations surveyed local communities and park management.” some 300 experts in sustainable tourism, destination quality, and park management. We Iasked them to evaluate 55 North American park destinations, chosen in part for the importance (3) Great Basin National Park of their gateways (see survey details page 86). • The scores that follow, listed by rank and NEVADA (Score: 77) Wheeler Peak rises from based on a 1-to-100 scale, reflect the experts’ opinions. No destination rated 90 or above (“un-

Destination the remote east Nevada desert here, a region spoiled and likely to remain so”), but one came close. Top-scoring destinations face relatively few uncrowded, unspoiled, and able to mitigate ›› threats or, significantly, are learning to handle them. While no place fell into the “catastrophic” such threats as grazing and advancing under-20 range, troubles go deep for the bottom scorers, with wounds that may verge on permanent. Even so, every destination, even last-place Everglades/Big Cypress, still retains much of what made it park-worthy. • We hope this index will spark discussion and debate. Each park destination below includes sample panelist comments that reflect the opinions behind the score. To ensure integrity, panelists commented anonymously. For more comments and a list of panelists, see www .nationalgeographic.com/traveler. On Top These 16 parks are virtually pristine and usually on good terms with local people.

(1) Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA (Score: 88) A backcountry visitor Gwaii Haanas might seem to rate its excel- surveys highly ranked lent 88 due simply to light traffic: Fewer Yoho National Park, PAGE 80: JERRY KOBALENKO/GETTY IMAGES; 81: DAVID GRAHAM; RAYMOND GEHMAN (RIGHT), MICHAEL MELFORD (LEFT) than 3,000 visitors a year make it to the British Columbia. park in the soggy, remote Queen Charlotte “Great for hiking and Islands. But there’s more: a unique partner- wildlife viewing,” ship between Parks Canada and the native says a panelist who Haida people. “High cultural integrity,” says used to work there. one panelist. “Haida are very involved in Still, he adds, Yoho park management. Residents display a real and Kootenay need stewardship ethic.” Authenticity, too: buffer zones to “Archaeological and historic artifacts are protect wildlife. left to their natural processes as per Haida tradition, which surprises visitors who expect ‘preservation.’” “Beautiful and in- tact. A great model for other regions.” (2) Apostle Islands National Lakeshore WISCONSIN (Score: 78) Light tourism traffic and long Lake Superior winters help keep the Apostles healthy.“In good shape ecologically. Not over visited.” “No man- made lights visible. Bayfield is a most delightful gateway community, providing authentic Great Lakes atmosphere.” Cape Breton Highlands National Park NOVA SCOTIA, CANADA (Score: 78) Cape Breton Island retains its charm despite

82 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELER “The Apostles are one of my favorite places on Earth, in the summer. You can still have an island almost to yourself for short periods of time.”

—Ronald Hiebert, Ph.D., plant ecologist, Northern Arizona University

A kayaker plies Superior waters in northern Wisconsin’s Apostle Islands National Lake- shore, tied for second place at a score of 78. Points out one reviewer, “The Apostle Islands are limited to small watercraft travel, keeping them pristine.” “The grand hotel stands over Waterton like the prince of the forest, and I think it adds to the dramatic scenery.”

—Brenda Barrett, Heritage Area Coordinator, U.S. National Park Service

Human and natural aesthetics ally where the Prince of Wales Hotel overlooks Water- ton Lakes National Park, Alberta. “An incredibly beautiful park”—words echoed by other panelists— “with relatively good tourism infrastructure in keeping with the park surroundings.” MICHAEL MELFORD (LEFT), JERRY KOBALENKO/GETTY IMAGES (RIGHT, LOWER), ERIC SANDER/COSMOS/AURORA PHOTOS (RIGHT, UPPER) Golden support apleasantstayGolden support inthearea.” K The mountainsdominate theforests Yoho, Banff(55). asinneighboring not asintense” problems are corridor and transportation the only concerns.“Gateway area isfine.”the only concerns.“Gateway species and r is spoiled quality reigns tourism “Given itsloca survey’s subtropical park. highest-scoring nteodvlaosrm but otherwise, on theoldvolcano’s rim, crowds doswamp thelodgesite In summer, r B. as “ecologicallysound” and“greatest” of theCanadianRocky Mountain parks. “Vast, wide-open vistas” invite anadventurer into JasperNational Park, Alberta, described OREGON Crater Lake National Park “Nearby town isincrediblyCaveat: littered.” life andfindquietmomentsofsolitude.” Anasazi It isstillpossible toenvision the r r “Its siteuntrampled. rich archaeologically access road pleasedpanelistsby keeping this NEW MEXICO (5) HAWAII (4) ALASKA Wr BRITISH CANADA COLUMBIA, Ko pineforests are worthbristlecone thehike.” the “Camping at 10,000feetisfantastic; “Tourismdevelopment. issustainable.” ris tsamdbgi’mess.” it’s amud-boggin’ trails; ATV on13 “recreational ispermitted riding and boats overlookAhtna peoples, native from cruise Bustours raise new issues: but Otherpanelistsagree, preservation.” treasureing national anddeserve historic “The Kennicott mineandtown are anamaz- parksintheworld!”mountain wilderness ounding region appropriatelyounding region developed.” emains arelatively genuineexperience. emote location meansChacoCanyon oea.A o aeas “Invermere or Asforgateways, ootenay. C. ot angell-St. EliasNational Park &Preserve ’s Chaco Culture National Historical Park Hawaii Volcanoes National Park enay/Yoho National Parks sd fteRcis “development sideoftheRockies, Soe 75) The BigIslandboaststhe (Score: Soe 2 Ahde e.Sur- 72) “A hiddengem. (Score: Soe 77) “One ofthemagnificent (Score: coastal development threatsare Soe 2 h og unpaved long, 72)The (Score: tion onanislandwhere urm,thepark’s un- supreme, mral. Invasive emarkable.” Soe 77)On (Score: g log- are threatened by subdivisions, though, Nearby lands, ofthepark.” with thecharacter are inharmony services opportunities.Visitor andbackcountry nice mixoffront-country “A rates highfornature andmanagement. Montana’s GlacierNational Park,Waterton ALBERTA, CANADA Wa C P development ontherim.” thelodgeandpreventprotect andpreserve “Oregonians have standto inthestern pride Glacier Bay National Park A cruiseshipbulks over Skagway, Alaska. InsuchInsidePassage ports,megash development eastof Tomales Bay.” r “beautifulnatural hibits,” cr accessible parkdraws praisedespiteweekend andlighthouselife.”This fishing, to farming, from SanFranciscotakes intime you back srie aea on ecp recent estrained gateway towns “except ALIFORNIA n,mnn,anddrilling. mining, ing, oint Reyes National Seashore o wds terton Lakes National Park : hg idvriy”“peddex- “splendid “high biodiversity,” Soe 72) “An hour’s drive (Score: Soe 72)Bordering (Score: vistas,” boost theeconomy, butnot senseof place.The parknow limits them. and tasteful, O y native But“the based.” intactsincemostuseiswater-ecologically Park land “is has now ships. limitedcruise andunsafe.” unattractive, Gateway unplanned, towns are “sprawling, center “resembles GrandCentralStation.” a its natural setting.” Panelists praisethenatural toseethe their cars forcespeopleoutof “Denali doesitright: highestpeakonthecontinent. (Denali), centered onMountMcKinley dled nature” “awesome expanseofunbri- enter thishuge, (6) ALASKA Glacier Bay National Park &Preserve ALASKA ttractions, not the human ones.The visitor notthehumanones.The ttractions, ears ofadaptation isnotbeingtold.”ears ›› fo spend somemoney. “U.S. parksare now serving parksmore seriously.” Inshort,they’ll general take theirgovernment’s role inpre- park-lovers show up. mandates that canconflictwhentoo many also promoting outdoor recreation, dual National Park Serviceprotect nature while ment, whereas Congress demandsthe U.S. P w pling. Allfour surveyed Alaska parksdid with shortseasonssuffer lesstourist tram- the U.S. What’s goingon? y has maintainedbetter funding.”Apparently, U ou get what you pay for. arks Canadamustfirstprotect theenviron- .S. recreation ecologist,“whereas Canada ell, too. Butthere’s more to it.By law, r Last, says oneU.S. panelist,“Canadiansin Obviously ithelpsto benorthern.Parks ced to bemore self-sufficient,”agrees a Why Canada? Denali National Park &Preserve r into thetop quarter of thescoring above average. Sixty percent make it Canadian, buteightof themscore onlyten are F THESE55PARKS, Soe 71) (Score: 71)You take ashuttlebus to (Score: ange, versus apaltry22 percent for This “unspoiled akadview wildlifein park and Tlingit story of9,000 story Tlingit —J.B.T. JULY/AUGUST 2005 ips

heading for paradise”

Destination ›› 85 Scorecard MACDUFF EVERTON (RIGHT), JEFF JACOBSON/AURORA PHOTOS (LEFT) www wn are special wn are , the Center for Sustain- for , the Center VELER RA (Score: trea- “An overlooked 66) global warming:“What will Glacier (Score: praise 66) Glacier draws eighing such subtle issues as aes- eighing such subtle when there are no longer any glaci- any when there are no longer ALUATING destination— an entire asked panelists to evaluate just the evaluate panelists to asked V park and gateway—requires both w as well integrity, and cultural thetics bad. good points against as balancing

nationalgeographic.com/traveler. help, T

Antietam National Battlefield National Antietam xperts first aired all points of view by by view all points of xperts first aired he resulting Stewardship Index score, Index Stewardship he resulting y (anonymously, to ensure objectivity). In objectivity). ensure to y (anonymously, To T We E About the Survey wn or visit one often, check it out at check it out at wn or visit one often, nationalgeographic.com/travel/sustainable. echnique, panelists then reviewed the com- echnique, panelists then reviewed many others helped with this study. . then, is an average of informed judgments informed of then, is an average about each place as a whole, taking into that the cards Like faces. account its many scores Olympic judges hold up, our experts’ accomplish- measurable both incorporate aesthetics, style, ment and the intangibles of each desti- an athlete, And like and culture. improve. has a chance to nation Simon Williams, Cassandra Cartwright, and www. Since simple numerical measures cannot do cannot Since simple numerical measures informed turned to the task, we justice to some 300 well- human judgment: a panel of fields—ecolo- of in a variety experts traveled park geography, tourism, sustainable gy, writing management and planning, travel preservation, historic and photography, archaeology. indigenous cultures, using familiar, were places with which they impor- to according weighted six criteria and ecological quality; tance: environmental any condition of integrity; social and cultural sites; archaeological buildings and historic manage- tourism of appeal; quality aesthetic the future. ment; and the outlook for filing comments about each park and gate- wa called the Delphi tool a research of a version t For scores. ments and filed their stewardship see observations, panelists and more a list of Fund and the Conservation able Destinations, Tool- assembled an online “Community have in a gateway live you If resources. kit” of to uildings and the oft-crowded, crumbling ›› for scenery, ecological integrity, and its historic buses. open-top red Needed restora- lodge tion has begun for the Depression-era b Going-to-the-Sun Road.Typically, panelists fret about be called ers?” Also, the park needs around “the area sprucing up.” (11) MARYLAND Park Glacier National MONTANA sure!”The high marks for histori- park gets cal interpretation, management, and sense of place. en- “Surburban problem? Its main croachment is engulfing it.” seem Gateways back,to be fighting though. “Sharpsburg, Boonsboro, and Shepherdsto in their preservation efforts.” E (Score: 68) This (Score:“One of the most 67) (Score: 68) “Sleepy, foggy fishing Death Valley National Park National Valley Death undy National Park undy National (Score:“The lodge is beautiful and 68) F est, the drive.” is worth this site Medora, edwood National and State Parks and State National edwood ALIFORNIA ALIFORNIA harming, and attractive.” “The magnifi- ehicles, and bright lighting near the park. estoration to bringestoration back American martens dramatic places in dramatic America.” Reviewers risk at deemed the ecology sound but from visitation, off-road Vegas--based soaring Las v “Preserving be a priori- the night sky should ty.Looking the stars at desert on a clear Valley.” to Death the trek night is worth villages, bays, coves; and remote, unspoiled, c is unparalleled,cence of the redwoods but a created tourismlogging have and now degraded mosaic of landscapes.” the gateway town,the gateway to a conducive is not visit,”“contemplative Pitchfork“its Fon- but Musical is an experience.” due and Medora W (10) C Zion National Park Zion National UTAH (9) CANADA NEW BRUNSWICK, R C “beautiful little park”“beautiful little on the tide-famous Bay earnsof Fundy praise for aesthetics, few crowds, program of ecological“a strong and r and peregrine falcons” disruptive despite logging on the border. the canyon spectacular.” Most panelists con- the canyon region, gateway curred split on Zion’s but relation- a top score.Theprecluding park’s of Springdale ship with the adjacent town much praise—“outstanding exam- received tries that to be part of the ple of a gateway park experience”—as propane did the free into the park.shuttle buses But a minority disagreed.“horrible.” One called Springdale ride with the bus Combine that and the Disneyland like “feel more experience can park.” than a national ard a Western ard a TRAVELER (Score: 71) “Wide-open (Score: big like “If you 69) (Score: wonder- 69) Soggy but

(Score: water: by Visit “an in- 70) (Score: almost every- from 69) Far enai Fjords National Park National enai Fjords Big Bend National Park Big Bend National K

SHINGTON

heodore Roosevelt National Park National Roosevelt heodore erlingua and Lajitas tend tow ALASKA (7) Jasper National Park National Jasper CANADA ALBERTA, credible place to see marine wildlife and credible seabirds.” town, The gateway Seward, “has embraced the park.” But: “Cruise traffic needs to be checked.” vistas, landscapes” with sweeping characterize the Canadian Rockiesthe biggest of parks— treasure.”“a gorgeous is authen- town “The tic, tourist-tack a minimum.” at Panelists ecological health.differ on the park’s Several forestry, drilling,criticize Alberta’s and mining activities next door. ful,“beautiful park with a less than beautiful a disagree the park but like Panelists gateway.” are towns logging.“Gateway about nearby laid-back; claimed to be the once Forks World.’” ‘Logging Capital of the where, Big Bend suffers both U.S. from and as sharply Mexican air pollution as well in the Rio Grande. levels lower Otherwise, a winner: hordes of visi- by “Not overused tors.The visited.” park I’ve most natural “Authentic, unspoiled.”of “The gateways T set,movie not excessively.” but Ugly signage hovers over sprawling motel strips in regional gateways like St. George, Utah, St. George, like gateways in regional strips motel sprawling over Ugly signage hovers a high “OK.” its score happier fit with adjacent Springdale keeps park’s The in the Zion area. GEOGRAPHIC NATIONAL T DAKOTA NORTH Olympic National Park Olympic National WA (8) TEXAS These 23 parks cope with a few chal- a few cope with parks These 23 lenges, areas. in gateway some of them Still Doing OK Still Doing skies, prairie, wildlife, and a feel for the Old

›› Destination Scorecard 86 “One of the greatest jewels of the Pacific Northwest... threatened by the large amount of logging that occurs on nearby lands.”

—Ronald Nickerson, Ph.D. recreation faculty, Minnesota State University

Driftwood provides a front-row seat for sunset at Rialto Beach in Olympic National Park, Washington. Part coast, part mountain rain forest, the park itself gets good marks, but its surroundings earn mixed reviews. (12) Black Canyon of the Gunnison (14) Joshua Tree National Park National Park CALIFORNIA (Score: 63) “I found peace at COLORADO (Score: 65) Vistas let you “see Joshua Tree.” “Truly undiscovered back- simultaneously the snowcapped Colorado country.”The park’s popularity with rock peaks and hot deserts below” in this un- climbers draws mixed reviews, and pan- crowded, out-of-the-way park. “Land, air, elists criticize smog from L.A., growing

Scorecard and water unspoiled.” Well,maybe not weekend crowds, and new houses and water for long: Panelists sharply criticize plans for a huge landfill next door. federal plans to cede Gunnison River water rights for development use, damaging Mesa Verde National Park canyon ecology. COLORADO (Score: 63) Panelists disagree on Mesa Verde’s condition, from “well- Bryce Canyon National Park managed” and “marvelous interpretive UTAH (Score: 65) Great hiking and geology walks” to “serious wildfire problems and in the park—“still a magical fairyland”— damage; archaeological heritage in dan- but several reviewers dislike tacky gate- ger; reduced aesthetic appeal.” The gateway towns: “junky, overstressed, and un- way, Cortez,“has a true Western feel.” appealing for many miles.” Others cite a park/locals disconnect, with tourism jobs Solitude reigns on Cumberland Island National Mount Rainier National Park Seashore, Georgia. Limited access prevents WASHINGTON

Destination few and jobholders “not very concerned (Score: 63) This “attractive, about park environment.” crowding but alienates gateway families. well-preserved and stewarded area” has sup- ›› port from local communities. Reviewer North Cascades National Park (13) Acadia National Park praise for the rugged park’s good ecological WASHINGTON (Score: 65) This lightly visited MAINE (Score: 64) Coastal beauty and help- quality mixed with bitter remarks about park “needs a better trail network.” Scenery ful local groups vie with summer crowding traffic jams in both summer and winter. and wildlife look fine, but “the quality of and tacky commerce in the otherwise attrac- some gateway settlements was disturbing. tive gateway of Bar Harbor. Adds a local pan- Tallgrass Prairie National Park I have memories of concrete.” elist: “The increase in PFAs (People From KANSAS (Score: 63) “The interpretation of Away) is eroding social integrity”—lobster- what the tallgrass prairie once was will stag- Pacific Rim National Park Reserve men can’t afford to live on the coast. ger the imagination—a great stop for cross- BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA (Score: 65) A country drivers.”Too small to portray the “stunning, wild, and beautiful” but frag- Petrified Forest National Park vastness it represents, the park drew panelist mented park scattered along the edge of ARIZONA (Score: 64) In an exemplary effort, calls for “more of everything.” Vancouver Island, Pacific Rim seeks cultural locals and the Park Service cooperated to integrity in part by employing staff from more than double the size of this fairly (15) Arches & Canyonlands local native communities. Challenges in- healthy park.The biggest problem, despite National Parks clude rising visitation and new development, Herculean efforts by park staff, “continues UTAH (Score: 62) These “well-managed” plus clear-cut logging areas nearby. to be theft of petrified wood.” desert parks are “among the most beautiful RAYMOND GEHMAN (UPPER) BOB KRIST (LOWER)

How many is too many? At Delicate Arch, in Arches National Park, Utah, sheer numbers of admirers can spoil the desert experience. It’s a growing issue for park managers: open access versus crowding.

88 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELER MAP: NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAPS NL 500 NS PE 500 NB RI CT OCEAN MA he Bottom ME acing Trouble km mi. ATLANTIC F T NH 0 0 DC ⓦ ⓦ MD NJ VT DE NY QC PA VA erton Lakes NP, AB NP, Lakes erton NC angell-St. Elias NP & Preserve, AK Elias NP & Preserve, angell-St. trified Forest NP, AZ NP, trified Forest ocky Mountain NP, CO ocky Mountain NP, edwood National & State Parks, CA Parks, & State National edwood oint Reyes National Seashore, CA Seashore, National oint Reyes oint Pelee NP, ON NP, oint Pelee ellowstone/Grand Teton NPs, WY NPs, Teton ellowstone/Grand osemite NP, CA NP, osemite heodore Roosevelt NP, ND NP, Roosevelt heodore allgrass Prairie NP, KS NP, Prairie allgrass SC FL Y Y Zion NP, UT Zion NP, On Top Still OK Wr Wat T Sequoia & Kings Canyon NPs, CA NPs, Sequoia & Kings Canyon VA Shenandoah NP, MI Lakeshore, Sleeping Bear Dunes Nat. T R R P P Pe WV (Score: different 54) “Two ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ KEY ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ GA OH KY (Score:“This urban park pre- 55) MI IN AL TN ON Mount Rushmore National National Mount Rushmore ut not sprawl on the fringe. ut not sprawl IL MS b NU WI e, lood,“cheesy and sprawl- are gateways but MEXICO GULF OF LA AR Memorial/Badlands National Park Memorial/Badlands National experiences. remote Badlands is relatively and unspoiled; a shopping is like Rushmore mall.” can still stir the patriotic Rushmore b ing” Sioux, with the Lakota and relations who claim part of Badlands,“edgy.” are (21) (21) SOUTH DAKOTA Hot Springs National Park Springs National Hot ARKANSAS serves the tradition of ‘taking the waters.’ serves the tradition of is an architectural wonder” Row Bathhouse for renova- “millions more —which needs historic district is compati- tion.”The town’s bl MO IA MN MB OK KS ND SD NE TX enay/Yoho NPs, BC NPs, enay/Yoho CANADA ot enai Fjords NP, AK NP, enai Fjords acific Rim NP Reserve, BC acific Rim NP Reserve, SK Glacier Bay NP & Preserve, AK NP & Preserve, Glacier Bay MT Glacier NP, AZ NP, Canyon Grand NV Basin NP, Great NC, TN Smoky Mountains NP, Great NL Morne NP, Gros BC Haanas NP & Haida Heritage Site, Gwaii HI NP, Volcanoes Hawaii AR Springs NP, Hot AB Jasper NP, CA NP, Joshua Tree K Ko KY NP, Cave Mammoth CO NP, Mesa Verde WA NP, Mount Rainier SD NPs, Mount Rushmore/Badlands WA North Cascades NP, WA Olympic NP, P UNITED STATES ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ CO WY MEXICO NM MT NT AB UT ID AZ (Score: 55) Canada’s WA BC NV YT HI OR CA AK AN CE

O Park Banff National C Destinations ted Park I FL Cypress, NP/Big erglades IF ME cadia NP, AC NB undy NP, A Antietam National Battlefield, MD Battlefield, National Antietam WI Lakeshore, National Apostle Islands UT NPs, & Canyonlands Arches AB Banff NP, TX Big Bend NP, CO the Gunnison NP, of Black Canyon UT NP, Canyon Bryce NS Highlands NP, Cape Breton NC Seashore, National Cape Hatteras NM NP, Caverns Carlsbad NM Park, Historical National Chaco Culture VA Park, Historical Colonial National OR NP, Lake Crater GA Seashore, Nat. Cumberland Island CA NP, Valley Death AK Denali NP & Preserve, Ev F P PA Military Park, National Gettysburg ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ ⓦ Ra ut visitor crowds produce an urban feel- produce ut visitor crowds b in local park plans bog down ing.” Corrective “political gridlock.” Though tourism is big region,in the gateway the industry grows connection to the park.” “without any (20) (20) CANADA ALBERTA, oldest, won- most popular park still retains derful beauty and backcountry, a park- but piercing transportation corridor disrupts mammal migrations, crowding, facilitates growth.and spurs gateway no Probably studied and debated: Canadian park is more “Beautiful, ecologically resilient, and facing challenges,extreme which do seem to drive sustainability.” efforts towards innovative elopment. ev eep blue glacial eep blue yd TRAVELER On this barrier island, wa te mountain views” in a passYosemite—magnificent

uinsand grandeur of wealth (Score: 56) Backcountry areas (Score: 62) “Natural resources (Score: used, 58) “Heavily well- (Score: 56). “D (Score:The majestic dunes on 60) (Score: historic sites The two 59)

(Score: 62)

ocky Mountain National Park ocky Mountain National Mammoth Cave National Park National Cave Mammoth Sleeping Bear Dunes National R Colonial National Historical Park Historical Colonial National

The gateway to both parks,The gateway Moab, “has

ys, reviews. get mixed however, Crowds acing Trouble ery summer.” quality has “Environmental

orktown/Jamestown) r. osemite National Park osemite National ALIFORNIA ALIFORNIA wirls over whether to maintain the his- wirls over “the gloomy r “the gloomy beaches.”couple with incredible Debate s houses. plantation toric decaying but The St. from to the park leaves boat Marys, with fishing town “still an authentic little shrimp boats.” get high marks, butYosemite Valley reels un- reels get high marks,Valley butYosemite der enormous popularity: “still breathtaking, Lake Michigan are “getting more crowded “getting more Michigan Lake are ev improved, appears there but to be no end to the demand for second homes, retirement communities, estates.” and vacation Still, and to fit in well thought were local towns to be supportiveof the park. Lakeshore NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC GEOGRAPHIC NATIONAL Y C COLORADO (19) KENTUCKY (18) (17) VIRGINIA (16) MICHIGAN Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks National Sequoia & Kings Canyon C Cumberland Island National Seashore National Island Cumberland GEORGIA destinations in the world and the most chal- and the most world in the destinations lenged,” with by Arches crowded the more fa metamorphosis” a tremendous gone through center, to recreation mining town from sports. worrisomecomplete with off-road managed” sums up sentiment on Mammoth, guided tourswhere thwart visi- widespread re- tor damage.“Gateway have communities appeal,”tained their small-town local cul- but “trinketization.” suffersture from Chemicals the formations. erode in polluted water (Y that rival or sur that forests, wild rivers, the High Sierra.” Care- has improved.taking inside the parks Gate- wa smog hurt the score. and severe linked by a parkway are deemed authentic are a parkway by linked and appealing, not so the neighborhood. but becom- are areas “The surrounding gateway does that in a way ing overcommercialized sense of place.Too not enhance the region’s chains degradingmany are the experience.” lakes and majestic lakes “totally overstressed”“totally park. “Traffic, condo developments, the sappy, and noise around lessen appeal.” of Estes Park touristy town

F parks;Major problems confront 13 often ga unsuitable it’s

›› Destination Scorecard 90 Rock Bottom Destructive external pressures and major internal difficulties afflict three parks. Scorecard (25) Shenandoah National Park VIRGINIA (Score: 48) Best of the beset by far, Shenandoah needs a buffer zone to protect its famous vistas from more residential sprawl. Haze, invasive species, and plant dis- eases add to its troubles. Several panelists agree on the secret to a visit: “Hoards drive along Skyline Drive and see each other’s bumpers, but a back dirt road can take you to miles of hiking without a soul in sight.” Gateway town centers retain some charm. (26) Great Smoky Mountains Destination National Park ›› NORTH CAROLINA, TENNESSEE (Score: 40) Terrible traffic, vista-choking haze, invasive species, and crowded trails number among the problems facing the beloved Great Herds of two kinds meet in Yellowstone National Park, where a snowmobile controversy sends Smokies, a treasure house of biodiversity. a low rating even lower. A quieter mingling of species on the Fairmont Banff Springs golf Topping all negatives are the “horrible,” course (below) belies Banff’s ongoing struggle to cope with four million visitors a year. “appalling,” “distasteful” gateways of Gatlin- burg, Pigeon Forge, and Cherokee: “theme (22) Carlsbad Caverns National Park tiny, stressed Point Pelee’s birding fame has parks, outlets, and billboards.” Federal poli- NEW MEXICO (Score: 53) Panelists split on made bird habitats regionally popular, as in cy hasn’t helped, either: “Kicking people off Carlsbad’s tourist sections, from “good visi- the lauded gateway town of Leamington. 6,600 tracts of land to create the park has led tor control and education” to “significant to huge cultural problems.” formation damage” and “a case study in plac- (23) Gettysburg National Military Park ing visitor use above sustainability. Shameful.” PENNSYLVANIA (Score: 51) The consensus on (27) Everglades National Park/ Above ground, the park draws praise, the notoriously tacky Gettysburg? It’s getting Big Cypress National Preserve gateways criticism—“glitzy tourist attrac- better.“Taking down the observation tower FLORIDA (Score: 34) “Clearly a paradise in tions unsuited to the landscape.” and curtailing the most obnoxious elements jeopardy,” the Everglades is dying of thirst in the encroaching phalanx of fast-food and other maladies. Upstream demand for establishments represents a victory.” Park water by the sugar industry and growing management is improving, and the historic cities has slowed a much-heralded restora- downtown thriving, but so is adjacent sprawl tion program to a crawl. Promised federal and “a dense corridor of wax museums,T- funding has not been forthcoming.The shirt shops, and chain eateries.” national park is not over-visited, but off- road vehicles have scarred Big Cypress. “A Yellowstone/Grand Teton National Parks culture of big swamp buggies, high-speed IDAHO, MONTANA, WYOMING (Score: 51) watercraft, and airboats does little to pre- “Yellowstone, our oldest national park, faces serve the more fragile areas.” Birding is still some of the most serious threats—water good, if only a shadow of what it used to be. quality, erosion, overuse, wildlife issues.The “Rapid development on all sides has created local community is informed and support- an unpleasant, unattractive gateway to one of ive” except perhaps for the controversial the planet’s unique places.” snowmobile proponents,

lambasted by many pan- MICHAEL MELFORD (UPPER), RAYMOND GEHMAN (FAR LEFT), PATRICK WARD/CORBIS (LEFT) elists, with a minority mild- Grand Canyon National Park ly dissenting.“Teton is in ARIZONA (Score: 53) At this “geological better shape than Yellow- wonder of the world,” South Rim throngs stone, but both are overrun” dominate the visitor experience. “The except forYellowstone’s big chances of finding a peaceful South Rim backcountry. sunset spot are equal to winning at a Vegas casino.” Many panelists also take points off (24) Cape Hatteras for incoming air pollution, noisy overflights, National Seashore too many cars generally, the failure to bring NORTH CAROLINA (Score: 50) in trolleys instead, and disrupted water lev- The nation’s grandest els in the Colorado River.The Tusayan gate- stretch of barrier island way is “filling up with fast-food and hotel beach is “obscenely over- chains with no sense of place.” developed” north of the Na- tional Seashore. “This place Point Pelee National Park doesn’t have the same fami- ONTARIO, CANADA (Score: 53) “Heavily im- ly feel that it used to have.” pacted by the feet of birders” and ecologically At the south end, Ocracoke Minor among local off-road excesses, a swamp buggy provides isolated between farmland and Lake Erie, still draws praise. a raised look at any Everglades wildlife it doesn’t scare off.

92 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELER