4TH ANNUAL PLACES RATED

111 islands The world’s most appealing destinations—islands—are the ones most prone to tourism overkill. Our 522 experts vote on which ones avoid the danger, which are succumbing to it, and which hang in the balance. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot

ourism is a phenomenon that can cook your Destinations conducted this fourth annual islands score well. As I write this at a B&B on food or burn your house down. In other words, Destination Scorecard survey, aided by George one of them—Salt Spring, British Columbia— we all risk destroying the very places that we Washington University. A panel of 522 experts I can see why the cost of an average house here love the most. in sustainable tourism and destination stew- begins at half a million dollars. Many islands Nowhere more so than on islands. Islands ardship donated time to review conditions in are losing traditional families to such prices. symbolize vacation. Escape! Their very insu- these 111 selected islands and archipelagos (see All the islands that follow, even the lowest larity makes them more attractive than a com- survey details on page 120). The scores that scoring, have great experiences to discover.

parable piece of real estate on the mainland. follow, listed by rank, reflect the experts’ opin- To protect them, to restore them, we must KAOS/SIME (TOP), MUNSHI AHMED/DRR.NET (LEFT) They are worlds unto themselves—their own ions. Quoted phrases from their remarks sug- value them as much as resort developers and traditions, ecosystems, cultures, landscapes. gest the thinking behind the scores. cruise companies do. Even more. That’s what attracts us. But as microworlds, The results show that beach-blessed islands islands are also more vulnerable to population draw sun-and-sand resort tourism develop- Generic vs. authentic: The two faces of Bali mir- pressure, climate change, storm damage, in- ment that can get out of hand quickly. There ror pressures on islands around the world. From t vasive species, and now, tourism overkill. are instructive exceptions: Molokai, Samoa, the surf shop to McDonald’s, a street in Kuta To see how the integrity of islands around Block Island. Multiple cruise-ship crowds can (right) could be in a resort town anywhere. Rice the world is holding up, TRAVELER and our Na- also overwhelm an island, transforming it. paddies near Ubud (above) evoke the true Bali. tional Geographic Center for Sustainable No surprise, then, that cloudy, beach-poor The half-and-half mix earned Bali a score of 57.

108 National Geographic Traveler November/December 2007 109 PLACES RATED A Destination Scorecard A report Our Survey card for Grading System 1. Best Rated 3. In the Balance Score of 77 or Score of 50 to 65. the world’s above. These is- A mix of strong lands are in excel- attributes with lent shape, are potentially seri- islands still relatively ous problems pristine, and are that need imme- likely to remain diate attention. so at least for the BEST-RATED immediate future. 4. In Trouble ISLANDS Score below 50. In excellent shape, relatively 2. Doing Well These islands are unspoiled, and likely to remain so. Score of 66 to 76. facing severe These islands are problems, usually in good shape with excessive Rank: 1. Faroe Islands (Denmark) (SCORE: 87) with only minor tourism among “Lovely unspoiled islands—a delight to the problems. them. traveler.” Remote and cool, and thus safe from overcrowding, the autonomous archi- pelago northwest of the Shetlands earns high marks from panelists for preservation of nature, historic architecture, and local pride. “Spectacular waterfalls and harbors.”

2. Azores, Portugal (SCORE: 84) This temper- Rhodes, ate mid–North Atlantic archipelago’s Greece “green volcanic mountains and picturesque black-and-white towns” offer “driving ISLANDS SCORED IN 2006 tours, handicrafts, and cuisine,” plus an This survey omits a few islands that ecosystem “in great shape” and a “strong appeared only last year in our and vibrant” Portuguese culture. “Locals World Heritage destination survey. are very sophisticated,” but inappropriate These were their 2006 scores: development is beginning to appear. Rapa Nui (Easter Island) 69 3. Lofoten, Norway (SCORE: 82) Chilly, high- Rhodes, Greece 63 latitude islands form a “masterpiece” of Belize reef islands 47 spectacular outcrops steeped in cherished Galápagos, Ecuador 44 tradition. “Many of the villages rent out cozy rorbu, the historic fishermen’s cabins.” “There are several excellent muse- onance for Scots.” With a “renaissance of electric projects may affect attractiveness.” Faroe Islands, Denmark: Borgarin peak over- ums and art galleries.” the Gaelic language,” the largest of the In- Ecotour operators at odds with whalers. shadows a lighthouse in the Faroes (above), ner Hebrides “still retains its romanticism.” an archipelago of steep slopes, grass roofs, 3. Shetland Islands, Scotland (SCORE: 82) 6. Molokai, Hawaii (SCORE: 79) Tops in the and a preservation-minded people who More Norse than Scottish, “Shelties” keep 5. Kangaroo Island, South Australia (SCORE: tropics, Molokai “is 1950s in accommoda- welcome a growing number of visitors. up Viking traditions and show “extremely 80) “Agriculture, tourism, and wilderness” tion,” its rugged coast and minimal beach- Lofoten, Norway: In these chilly but popular high integrity in all aspects of heritage and meld with “high environmental quality and front preventing big-resort development islands with dramatic scenery, you can stay in ecology despite North Sea oil development. local involvement.” Feral pigs and goats, and protecting Hawaiian cultural ways. rorbu, traditional fishermen cottages (right). Great planning controls and attitude.” and introduced koalas do disrupt habitats. “Seems like old Hawaii.”

3. Chiloé, Chile (SCORE: 82) Gateway to Chile’s 5. Mackinac Island, Michigan (SCORE: 80) “No 7. Aran Islands, Ireland (SCORE: 78) The three- 8. Dominica, Caribbean (SCORE: 77) Rugged, fjord country, “rural and unspoiled” Chiloé cars [banned since 1898], no high-rises, and some off the Irish west coast exude Gaelic green, friendly, with few beaches, the “Na- possesses a “pristine seascape, enhanced by little development pressure” earn praise for tradition. Islanders “maintain a strong sense ture Island” offers an “authentic, unspoiled protected forests and dozens of historic the iconic isle in Lake Huron. “Overall the is- of cultural heritage and identity.” Tourism experience, with natural and cultural amen- towns and wooden churches, 16 of which land is a gem. Downtown is a bit too touristy.” management gets good reviews. ities.” Downside issues: support for Japan are on the UNESCO World Heritage list.” on whaling and a proposed oil refinery. 5. Iceland (SCORE: 80) Dramatic landscapes, 7. Texel, Netherlands (SCORE: 78) Well-cared- 4. Isle of Skye, Scotland (SCORE: 81) unique culture, and high environmental for Dutch holiday island on the Waddenzee. 8. Grenadines, Caribbean (SCORE: 77) “Un- “Wild landscape and a place of cultural res- awareness, but “new smelters and hydro- “Nice low-key destination for cyclists.” spoiled beauty,” not too developed, and great yachting, although yacht discharge • SEE MANY MORE COMMENTS on each of these destinations at www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler pollutes local waters. Authentic—“one of

GRANT DIXON/LONELY PLANET IMAGES (ABOVE), VICTOR SPINELLI/ZUMA PRESS (ABOVE, RIGHT), PER-ANDRE HOFFMAN/AURORA PHOTOS (RIGHT) the last, best hopes of the Caribbean.”

110 National Geographic Traveler November/December 2007 111 PLACES RATED A Destination Scorecard ISLE OF SKYE: “A mixture of activities and stunning scenery combine to leave a long pleasant aftertaste—just like a dram of local malt whisky.” —HUGH GOVAN, MARINE BIOLOGIST

9. Falkland Islands (U.K.) (SCORE: 76) Wild, bleak, and culturally British; a stopover for Antarctic cruises. Notable problem: Leftover landmines from the 1982 war inhibit hiking.

10. Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia (SCORE: 75) Vibrant Acadian and Celtic heritage mix with coastal panoramas on the “top notch” Cabot Trail. Tourism helps combat “high unemployment and out-migration.”

10. Corsica, France (SCORE: 75) “Fantastic mix of mountains, beaches, and strong cultural identity.” The independent-minded Corsi- cans maintain one of the Mediterranean’s last isles sheltered from mass tourism. Well, almost: “Still a gem, but not in August.”

11. Vanuatu, Melanesia (SCORE: 74) “Tradition- al villages, active volcanism, the world’s best kava.” Multicultural archipelago’s “hospit- able people” don’t benefit enough from tour- ism. “Outer islands are of untold beauty.”

Aran Islands, Ireland: Stone walls define the 11. Santa Catalina Island, California (SCORE: landscape on Inishmore (above), where heavy 74) “Lots of visitors,” but most stay in Aval- ISLANDS but well-managed tourism keeps the econo- on. Catalina Conservancy protects nature, DOING WELL my going and the islands populated. although area must recover from the May Retaining sense of place, with a few Molokai, Hawaii: A cliff-lined coast (below) 2007 fire. “Catalina works, for what it is.” surmountable problems. discourages overdevelopment but favors kayaking on the survey’s best-scoring warm- 12. Upolu and Savai’i, Samoa, Polynesia weather island. Corsica, France: Culture, (SCORE: 73) Praised for cultural integrity, or 9. Tasmania, Australia (SCORE: 76) “Great, but history, and nature combine in places like fa’a Samoa, the “Samoan way.” “Family tour- needs to reduce logging” sums up panelist Pointe de la Parata, with its medieval watch- ism businesses give a taste of Samoan life to opinion. “Proposed pulp mill threatens Tas- towers (opposite), helping to make Corsica a the traveler.” Issues with pollution and trash. mania’s image as clean, green, and pristine.” Mediterranean standout. 12. Isle of Man (U.K.) (SCORE: 73) Semi- 9. Bora-Bora, French Polynesia (SCORE: 76) independent island with unique Nordic- “Outstanding natural and cultural beauty.” Celtic “character reasonably preserved.” The island gets praise for balancing beach Past-prime resort hotels need rejuvenation. tourism with “emphasis on local culture, “Manx traditions retained, but shot through archaeological sites, and native species.” with immigration from England.” JIM RICHARDSON (UPPER LEFT), DOUGLAS PEEBLES/DRR.NET (LOWER PEARSON/CORBIS (RIGHT) Risk of becoming “very touristique.” 13. Palawan, Philippines (SCORE: 72) “Blessed 9. Fraser Island, Australia (SCORE: 76) Forested with incredibly beautiful seascapes and sandy island off Queensland, a World Her- landscapes.” Richly diverse marine life itage site, gets good marks for park preser- threatened by pollution, but conservation vation, but “busloads of tourists detract.” improving. Recommended: El Nido and the Calamianes Group. 9. Bornholm, Denmark (SCORE: 76) “‘Homey’ rather than spectacular” characterizes the 13. Moorea, French Polynesia (SCORE: 72) “charming townscapes” of this Danish out- “Stunningly beautiful. Lush flora, extensive post in the Baltic Sea. Crowded in summer. reef systems, diverse sea life, and archaeo- logical sites.” “The experience lingers long 9. Hydra (Ídra), Greece (SCORE: 76) Small after your tan.” Downer: “Style of tourist island with no cars allowed and “beautiful development very intrusive.” local architecture, authentic Greek food.” Good preservation, but can be “swamped by 13. Block Island, Rhode Island (SCORE: 72) day-trippers.” Low-key. Good nature reserves, “charming,

• SEE MANY MORE COMMENTS on each of these destinations at www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler

112 National Geographic Traveler PLACES RATED SAMOA: “Savai’i is the best kept secret in the Pacific. A cultural gem with beautiful lonely beaches against a background of magnificent volcanoes and rain forest. Long may it remain so.” —LELEI LELAULU, PRESIDENT, COUNTERPART INTERNATIONAL old New England culture of the sea,” but ty.” Tax haven status has attracted the afflu- poor zoning turns second-home influx into ent, inflating real estate. Recommended: “the landscape-altering “large-lot subdivisions.” network of green lanes and cycle routes.”

14. Ilha Grande, Brazil (SCORE: 71) “Richly 15. San Juan Islands, Washington State forested, marvelous beaches, charming (SCORE: 70) Ferry-linked archipelago is slow- communities” near Rio de Janeiro and São paced counterpoint to Seattle; “becoming Paulo. “No big international hotels.” Real- gentrified.” Good conservation; no jet skis. estate development is a threat. Boat-borne whale-watching can get “out of

hand”—i.e., too many boats behaving badly. DENNIS DEGNAN/CORBIS (UPPER), JERRY ALEXANDER/GETTY IMAGES (LOWER) 14. Sardinia, Italy (SCORE: 71) “Coves, caves, and long sandy beaches; mountainous inte- 15. St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands, Caribbean rior preserves a rich cultural heritage.” (SCORE: 70) “Thank God for the national park Some coastal enclave resorts. Outlook on that covers half of this island.” Appropriate tourism development is uneven.

14. Hvar, Croatia (SCORE: 71) Authentic, attrac- Palawan, Philippines: Graceful El Nido bay tive gem of the Dalmatian coast “under (below) epitomizes the beauty of Palawan, control except for the build-up of holiday where conservation scores more hits than homes.” Jammed in summer. misses. Hvar, Croatia: Al fresco diners pack the medieval streets of Hvar town (left). Like 14. Jersey and Guernsey, Channel Islands many Dalmatian-coast islands, Hvar retains (U.K.) (SCORE: 71) Scenic. “Strong identity, rich much of its character in the face of growing cultural heritage, high environmental quali- summertime tourist crowds. PLACES RATED

resorts, great natural feel. Development Seychelles: Clean waters (above), environ- growing too fast,” putting funky character pressure affects remaining portion; some mental awareness, and cautious tourism at risk. “Increasing wealthy-retired second beaches can get crowded with cruise-ship development earn good marks for this Indian homes. Skyrocketing housing prices.” day-trippers from St. Thomas. Ocean country. Panelists called it “paradise” twice—and “expensive” four times. 16. Mount Desert Island, Maine (SCORE: 69) 15. Anguilla (U.K.), Caribbean (SCORE: 70) The “Every tawdry ice-cream shop on the eel-shaped colony “appeals to those seeking outskirts of Bar Harbor disturbs, but then a slower, quiet place. Beaches of legendary tional villages of Babeldaob Island are an you take a hike up Cadillac Mountain, or a beauty, friendly people, fine dining, and under-recognized asset.” Next issue: Asian bike ride in the woods, and all is forgiven.” art.” Reefs, culture, and villages said to be in developers seeking to build large resorts. Praise for rural stewardship offsets the good shape. Worries include “overdone development demerits: “Town overrun new developments” and tendency to “be- 16. Cook Islands, Polynesia (SCORE: 69) “Rela- with trinket shops.” “High-end tourism come a place only the ultra-rich can enjoy.” tively unspoiled” except for Rarotonga, and cruise ships are not in keeping with home to sun-and-sand resorts. A national the natural aesthetic.” 15. Seychelles, Indian Ocean (SCORE: 70) Beau- geotourism plan calls for more emphasis on tiful—“like paradise on Earth”—and priced coral reefs and Polynesian culture. 16. Réunion (Fr.), Indian Ocean (SCORE: 69) that way. “High ecological quality.” Risks: “Volcanic landscapes steal the show.” Multi- “high-class, exclusive tourism, with large 16. Prince Edward Island, Canada (SCORE: 69) ethnic island with mainly French tourism chains entering the market.” “From the fiddles to the oysters, PEI seems that is “not that intrusive.” Reefs degraded. wholly authentic.” Except: “ugly, if not un- 15. Nevis, Caribbean (SCORE: 70) “Nevisians sustainable” tourist development around 17. Bonaire (Neth.), Caribbean (SCORE: 68) preserve cultural heritage and share it via Cavendish; “ecological quality low, cultural Earns praise for its encircling coral-reef well-informed tours.” “Great natural and integrity high.” New bridge not a problem. marine park and worries that the “island is historic beauty, but under threat” from ex- poised to become overdeveloped.” otic species and a proposed oversize resort. 16. Salt Spring Island, British Columbia (SCORE: 69) Rural, tree-clad gulf island with 17. St. Vincent, Caribbean (SCORE: 68) Lush, 16. Palau, Micronesia (SCORE: 69) “Good con- “fine arts, music, creative organic cuisine.” relatively undeveloped. “Natural beauty; servation of the Rock Islands. The tradi- Well-protected, but “the population is loss of the banana sector may mean fewer MICHAEL MELFORD

• SEE MANY MORE COMMENTS on each of these destinations at www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler

116 National Geographic Traveler A Destination Scorecard ST. LUCIA: “Most noteworthy scenery is the Pitons, but dependence on all-inclusive resorts has limited creation of a restaurant scene. It also limits inter- action with locals, creating an us-and-them atmosphere.” —DAVID SWANSON, JOURNALIST

pesticides but more poverty.” A jocular crit- St. Lucia: Striking architecture of ritzy Jade is also “aloof,” crowded, and stressed—“a icism: “Kingstown ain’t no garden spot.” Mountain, a self-contained resort, echoes the high-end market beginning to fray.” island’s emblematic twin Pitons (above). 17. Sicily, Italy (SCORE: 68) Complex island. “You 19. Out Islands, Bahamas (SCORE: 66) The sta- can find a petrochemical plant next to an rare birds, forest and waterfall hikes,” plus tus of these islands varies. Some are ancient amphitheater.” Assets: Archaeology, diverse hotels. “Vast areas retain integrity. “charming, visually appealing, and relaxed,” culture, food and wine, volcanic Mount Etna. Kailua-Kona is crowded, tacky.” Concerns: but too often preservation efforts vie with Downside: intrusive industry and motor- trend toward larger-scale resorts, cruise foreign investment that promotes “big ways. “Constantly contending with crime.” ships. Invasive species also a problem. development, second homes, and loss of everything Bahamian.” Affluent foreigners 17. Yasawa Group, Fiji (SCORE: 68) Archipelago 18. Pemba, Tanzania (SCORE: 67) “Beautiful moving in: “Chickens crossing the road mix of small islands “making good attempts to island, limited beaches.” Fishing with dyna- with celebrity sightings” on Eleuthera. maintain ecological quality and cultural mite threatens fine reefs. “Tourism is in its integrity.” Growing popularity means “de- infancy”; could grow to help save reefs and 19. Tobago, Caribbean (SCORE: 66) “Charming velopers need watching. Otherwise, idyllic.” Swahili Muslim culture—or degrade them. laid-back rural ambience” on this slow- paced island, but Trinidadian investors push 18. Hawaii (Big Island) (SCORE: 67) A Hawaiian 19. Bermuda (U.K.) (SCORE: 66) Tidy, rich, and “coastal tourism development that is too rap- favorite for many panelists. “Live volcanoes, well-tended, the Anglo-Caribbean outpost id, unregulated,” threatening environment.

• SEE MANY MORE COMMENTS on each of these destinations at www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler MACDUFF EVERTON/CORBIS

November/December 2007 119 PLACES RATED

19. São Tomé and Príncipe (SCORE: 66) Tiny, 21. Solomon Islands, Melanesia (SCORE: 64) undeveloped, “very beautiful” two-island Fascinating archipelago: atolls, mountains, African country offers nature, beaches, cul- lagoons, fjords, reefs, mountain forest, 70 How the Island ture, unique colonial farms, but “very weak” languages. “Spectacular place, great people, Survey Works environmental policing, threats of mass but turbulent.” Other negatives: “overfish- tourism, and “disregard for sustainability.” ing, overlogging, Chinese casinos.” his survey rates the quali- 21 Jeju (Cheju), South Korea (SCORE: 64) A ties that make a destination favorite with Koreans for its nature, caves, unique—“integrity of place.” farms, and fishing, crowded Jeju shows an It’s not about consumer ISLANDS IN “astonishing contradiction” between its service, so a poor but THE BALANCE artificial resort areas and protected nature tunspoiled island like Palawan can A mixed bag of successes and worries, reserves. Management is improving. with the future at risk. rate higher than a Hilton Head, 21. Ocracoke, Outer Banks, North Carolina called “the best golf-course-and- (SCORE: 64) “Like the Outer Banks used to be,” gated-community island anywhere.” 20. Cyprus, Turkish side (SCORE: 65) Scoring its charm shielded by ferry-only access. But We selected mainly small and higher than the overdeveloped Greek side other panelists rate it already overdeveloped. medium-size islands and groups, of the island, Turkish Cyprus has a “politi- allowing a few larger exceptions cal situation that stifles development,” 21. Kauai, Hawaii (SCORE: 64) “Still beautiful with relatively unified character, leaving time to lay out a strategy, but his- but increasingly overbuilt.” Numerous com- such as Iceland and Tasmania. toric buildings are neglected, and “many plaints cite an overall poor presentation of Since evaluating an entire destina- second homes are being built all over with Hawaiian culture as well as sightseeing- little planning.” helicopter noise that spoils the Na Pali tion involves such unquantifiables coast experience. “Disappointing.” as aesthetics and cultural integrity, 20. Bazaruto Archipelago, Mozambique we decided the best measure is in- (SCORE: 65) Native flora and “stunning” formed human judgment: a panel of marine ecology in these “not yet spoiled” 522 well-traveled experts in a offshore islands now draw “increasingly variety of fields—ecology, sustain- inappropriate” tourism development. able tourism, geography, travel writing and photography, site man- 20. Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts agement, historic preservation, in- (SCORE: 65) “Has lost some of its authenticity digenous cultures, archaeology. in steamroller of East Coast money,” which “has helped fund preservation efforts. We asked panelists to evaluate Not too overdeveloped.” But: “outrageous just the islands with which they cost of living.” were familiar, using six criteria weighted according to importance: Sanibel: Famous for shell-strewn beaches (below), the Gulf Coast island, “an undervalued environmental and ecological quali- historical and cultural destination,” earns high praise for conservation but not for losing its ty; social and cultural integrity; “old Florida” feel to second homes and real estate inflation. Cape Verde: São Vicente musicians condition of historic buildings and (above) cook up the world-renowned rhythms that flavor the “appealing landscape and culture” archaeological sites; aesthetic ap- of the cash-strapped archipelago off West Africa. “Its great strength lies in its folklore.” peal; quality of tourism manage- ment; and outlook for the future. Experts first posted points of view on each destination—anony- mously, to ensure objectivity. After reading each others’ remarks— a variation of a research tool called the Delphi technique—panelists filed their final stewardship scores. For a list of panelists, see www

.nationalgeographic.com/traveler. HEMIS/ALAMY (UPPER), PETER ESSICK/AURORA/GETTY IMAGES (LOWER) The resulting Stewardship Index rating is an average of informed judgments about each place as a whole—all its many faces. Like the scores posted by Olympic judges, our experts’ ratings reflect both measurable factors and the intangibles of style, aesthetics, and culture. And like an athlete, each island has a chance to improve.

120 National Geographic Traveler JOSE L. GAY . (SCORE: 61) (SCORE: on Phuket “Ugly” defines (below) and broader criticism for and broader “Threat of development “Threat (SCORE: 61) (SCORE: Madeira Islands, Portugal Islands, Madeira Tortola, British Virgin Islands, Carib- British Virgin Tortola, reforms.” Recommended: the Ha’apai and the Ha’apai Recommended: reforms.” island groups. Vava’u 24. Mixed bag. “Despite reputation for its gar- for its “Despite reputation bag. Mixed dens and high-quality in beautiful walking mass-market suffers from Madeira scenery, hotel development”—but mainly on the coast near Funchal. 24. bean Unlike this beautiful island.” looms over losing its is “rapidly Tortola Gorda, Virgin visi- cruise 3,500 up to “Permitting charm.” tors a day is diminishing quality of life.” 46): (score: Thailand Phuket, Beach area the Patong Tied with Key West in 2004 at a score of 43, in 2004 at a score West with Key Tied earns at 46, Phuket and tied again this year from for rebounding panelist praise spotty tsunami the 2004 in better rebuild ways. to chance the missing Populous, —RORY MACLELLAN, TOURISM PROFESSOR TOURISM MACLELLAN, —RORY Less visited “Some beau- “Some (SCORE: 62) (SCORE: (SCORE: 62) (SCORE: (SCORE: 61) 61) (SCORE: PLACES RATED PLACES Tonga, Polynesia Tonga, Lombok, Indonesia Lombok, Barbados, Caribbean tiful yet largely undeveloped locations” in a undeveloped largely tiful yet political kingdom suffering “tensions over the same,” but north coast “has some truly north coast “has some but the same,” “much stricter Needs developments.” awful interiors retain Mountain control.” growth Minoan heritage “incredible authenticity. and portrayed.” but poorly protected 23. and developed than neighbor Bali, less cul- than neighbor Bali, and developed with better ecotourism, rich, but turally Coastal especially on soaring Rinjani. prob- a growing and sewage development it not be- “May lem. One panelist pleads, Bali!” come the next 23. clean, and rich in heritage. Seen as cultural- clean, and rich in heritage. tourism yet aware, ly and environmentally to Barbados the real continues “submerging and golf, of beaches, seekers bring in more winter homes.” 24. (SCORE: Striking (SCORE: 63) (SCORE: “Sunshine, stark- “Sunshine, “Wonderfully (SCORE: 64) (SCORE: “There remains a mismatch between the islands’ cultural assets assets cultural islands’ the between a mismatch remains “There (SCORE: 62) 62) (SCORE: (SCORE: 62) (SCORE: and sand. (None of the latter exists.)” (None of and sand. and the majority of visitors who continue to look for cheap sun, sea, cheap for to look who continue of visitors majority and the MALTA: Crete, Greece Crete, Martinique, French West Indies West Martinique, French Corfu, Greece Corfu, Nantucket, Massachusetts Nantucket, St. Lucia, Caribbean “Still has a magnificent historic city cen- has a magnificent historic city “Still 23. preserved heritage” in the Ionian Islands. Ionian heritage” in the preserved in places but “has and charming Vibrant lost much of its soul to mass tourism.” ly blue seas, and rugged mountains are still and rugged mountains are ly blue seas, 22. island with iconic twin Pitons. “Highest iconic twin Pitons. island with Carib- of any of all-inclusives percentage visitor interaction bean island” minimizes with local culture. 23. “Great except for crowds in summer and for crowds except “Great “Intel- tasteless mega-mansions.” too many and “rugged sea ligent land use policies” high costs. tainted by now folk” tradition 21. 62) 23. ter.” Well-to-do. Mainly beach tourism; Mainly Well-to-do. ter.” but bland resorts.” “cute PLACES RATED

24. Islands of Lake Titicaca, Peru/Bolivia (SCORE: 61) Some isles are natural; others float, made of reeds. Authenticity varies from “real culture, enacting real traditions” to “trinket selling.” Lake suffers pollution.

24. Sanibel, Florida (SCORE: 61) Panelists judg- ing by Florida comparisons like Sanibel; those recalling the “old Sanibel” score it lower. The award-winning 1976 “Sanibel Plan” for sustainability “has been sorely compromised, but Sanibel has more integri- ty than most developed islands” in Florida. “The Ding Darling Refuge is a treasure.”

24. Santorini, Greece (SCORE: 61) History, catastrophe, beauty, Atlantis theories, beaches, Minoans, wine—one expert calls Santorini “the greatest island site in the world.” With issues to match: “Social, cultural, and environmental character has been submerged in the tourism flood” with “rampant illegal construction” defac- ing rural areas and “a need to limit Key West, Florida (score: 46): The cherished sunset performances at Mallory Square now drown cruise ship tourism.” The spectacular in tourist hordes, who also fuel a “generic party-hearty attitude.” caldera’s volcanic and archaeological story is not well told. 27. Maui, Hawaii (SCORE: 57) “Still attractive,” 28. Guadeloupe, French West Indies (SCORE: say panelists, but “exploding development” 55) “Heavily developed. Much looks modern 24. Maldives (except Male), Indian Ocean means Maui could be “damaged by its own and bland, still with pockets of French- (SCORE: 61) Low-lying atolls “threatened by success.” “Getting too pricey for locals.” In Creole culture.” Mix of all-inclusives and global warming.” Ultimate enclave tourism places it seems “like a slice of Los Angeles smaller independent hotels. Good trail —resort-only islands—provides “stunning invading Paradise Lost.” system on the Soufrière volcano. seascapes” and little contact with Muslim population. (Most live in the capital, Malé.) 27. Bali, Indonesia (SCORE: 57) Bombed, beau- 28. Mauritius, Indian Ocean (SCORE: 55) tiful, and beleaguered, Bali draws heavy Unusual cultural diversity appeals on this 25. Grenada, Caribbean (SCORE: 59) “Still comment both pro and con: “Gorgeous populous independent island. Ugly con- recovering from devastation by Hurricane scenery and endearing local traditions; struction, environmental problems, enclave Ivan in 2004.” Dangerously tempted by “big awful coastal tourism ghettos—unplanned resorts detract. “Moving down-market.” box tourism,” but geotourism approach now and reflecting the worst excesses of pack- gaining favor would focus on its good mix age tourism.” Despite the terrorist attacks 29. Mykonos, Greece (SCORE: 54) Picturesque of culture, scenery, diving, birds, and sailing. of 2004 and 2006, “the Bali spirit remains.” Cycladic architecture, small-scale hotels, but “cultural integrity was rapidly lost in 25. Capri, Italy (SCORE: 59) Scenic, with charm- 27. Cape Verde, West Africa (SCORE: 57) A the 1960s.” Now heavily visited; “cruise ship ing old houses and churches, but “huge music-rich, water-poor, beautiful multi- passengers clog the narrow streets.” Its crowds” earn pricey Capri “a reputation as island country “rapidly developing, could arguable contribution: “a fun spot that a tourist trap.” “Overvisited and overhyped.” easily exceed carrying capacity.” keeps pressure off more pristine islands.”

25. Tahiti, French Polynesia (SCORE: 59) 27. Curaçao (Neth.), Caribbean (SCORE: 57) 29. Federated States of Micronesia (SCORE: “Mountains, waterfalls, climate—Tahiti does “Excellent protection of old town Willem- 54) Very mixed condition. Great cultural not disappoint.” “Sometimes the French in- stad,” a World Heritage site. Demerits for authenticity, diving, and archaeology—amid fluence overrides the Polynesian too much.” oil refinery pollution, coastal development. trash, collapsing reef systems, population Tourism “not benefiting locals enough.” pressure. Still, many pristine locales sur- 28. Isla Mujeres, Mexico (SCORE: 55) Still “very vive. Remote and expensive to get to. 25. St. Kitts, Caribbean (SCORE: 59) Despite its Mexican,” this small island with good reef unique assets—historic Basseterre, scenic protection is “getting overcrowded with day- 29. Mallorca, Balearic Islands, Spain (SCORE: landscapes, distinctive small resorts, a music trippers from Cancún”; has “lost its quaint 54) “Despite rape of the coastline, Mallorca festival—St. Kitts is opting “for large resorts, and charming appeal.” “To damn by faint still remains beautiful.” Mass tourism at the casinos, golf courses, and cruise ships.” praise: better than Cancún or Cozumel.” beaches but “aesthetic appeal and local cui- sine outstanding in less developed areas.” 26. Viti Levu, Fiji (SCORE: 58) “Beautiful. The 28. Malta, Mediterranean (SCORE: 55) “The people are wonderful,” but political instabil- Maltese take great care to share their histo- 30. St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands (SCORE: 53) ity, dying coral, and “a tendency to overtake ry and culture with visitors.” Dense array of “Real West Indian island where locals cultural and aesthetic integrity with larger- archaeological and historic sites, “but over- work and live—not a tourism-dedicated JEFF GREENBERG/ALAMY scale tourism development” lower the score. whelmed by mass tourism.” Pollution, too. playground.” Historic buildings poorly

• SEE MANY MORE COMMENTS on each of these destinations at www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler

124 National Geographic Traveler PLACES RATED

maintained, “crime is a problem, as is water St. Thomas: Guests relax at a resort near tryside is scarred or quarried or flattened quality on many beaches,” but trends are Charlotte Amalie. Per capita, such stay-over with half-built developments everywhere.” improving, with plans to “focus more on visitors typically put several times more into cultural and natural heritage.” island economies than do day-trippers from 33. Antigua, Caribbean (SCORE: 50) “Beautiful cruise ships like those in the harbor. beaches and wonderful people and culture,” 30. Zanzibar, Tanzania (SCORE: 53) “Incredible but the government “is corrupt. They have place—culturally, historically, ecologically” lost touch with much of their heritage,” but at risk from “mass tourism driven by survive on this populous island, elsewhere although well-managed Nelson’s Dockyard government policy that favors large invest- “overbuilt with enclave resorts that do not draws praise. The island suffers from pollu- ments.” “Development threatens historic favor cultural exchanges.” Assets include tion, erosion, and uninformed mass tourism Stonetown” and sparks “cultural clashes Old San Juan, some of the paradores (coun- with “profits in the hands of the few.” with conservative Muslim residents.” try inns), El Yunque rain forest, the Arecibo Observatory. A recent campaign urging 31. Canary Islands, Spain (SCORE: 52) travelers to “explore beyond the shore” is “Intensively developed, mass tourism” has starting to address panelists’ concerns that ISLANDS “severely compromised” coastal Las Palmas tourism has been focused on the beach. IN TROUBLE and Tenerife, but La Palma, Lanzarote, El “Visitors need to know what else Puerto Under severe pressure, excessive Hierro, and La Gomera retain charm and Rico offers.” Environment improving. tourism; many working to recover. their own flora and fauna. “Staggering bio- diversity makes the Canaries unique.” 32. Cyprus, Greek side (SCORE: 51) “Marvelous scenery and cultural history” under pres- 34. Hatteras Island, Outer Banks, North

32. Puerto Rico (U.S.), Caribbean (SCORE: 51) sure from “overdeveloped mass tourism.” Carolina (SCORE: 49) “Every lot a McMansion” ANDRE JENNY/DRR.NET “Beautiful and culturally significant places” “Between Larnaca and the southwest, coun- on this barrier island, but the national

• SEE MANY MORE COMMENTS on each of these destinations at www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler

126 National Geographic Traveler A Destination Scorecard seashore “is another world.” Hatteras “has down: “overdeveloped,” “way too crowded resisted high-rises and prohibits billboards,” by cruise-ship hordes,” and “coral reefs but suffers from “ugly strip malls and non- degraded and overfished.” A sobering per- A Note from descript eating establishments.” Beyond the spective: Several panelists still thought Key the Editors park, says one panelist, “I fear the worst for West best of the Keys. “In comparison, the this lovely, once secluded, place.” other Keys seem like a string of Motel 6s with pools in which nobody cares to swim.” his survey isn’t the final 35. Aruba (Neth.), Caribbean (SCORE: 48) “A word on the travel health of vacation factory with fabulous beaches,” 37. Phuket, Thailand (SCORE: 46) “We missed the world’s islands. It’s a Aruba is “overbuilt, gaudy, fast losing its cul- the window of opportunity after the 2004 work in progress, a snap- ture.” “Cruise ships have resulted in a tacky tsunami” with ugly buildings, pollution, sex shot in time. We hope that downtown.” A minority, though, calls Aruba tourism all back in place. “Original charm tplaces at the bottom of our Desti- “dynamic, interesting,”—and a safety valve: as a beautiful, unspoiled, and culturally rich “If thousands of tourists are going to be destination has been completely lost.” nation Scorecard won’t be there for dumped on a Caribbean island with little long. We’re interested in construc- more than beach, shopping, and a casino in 38. Hilton Head, South Carolina (SCORE: 45) tive criticism, not condemnation. mind, I’d rather they stay on Aruba than on “Classic overdevelopment of a natural won- Rating islands brings the issues of other more fragile islands.” der.” Aesthetics win praise, but the subur- sustainability strikingly close to banized island is “soulless” with few hints home. We all seem to have our 36. Grand Cayman (U.K.), Caribbean (SCORE: of its Gullah past. “Golf and gated commu- favorite islands, and while most 47) “Exceptional diving and snorkeling,” but nities—monotonous in a squeaky clean way.” have problems, we choose to forgive “banking defines the island. Tourism is “Extreme pressure to continue development them because, on balance, their heavily weighted to cruise ships.” Damage even though the local population wants to still lingers from Hurricane Ivan in 2004. stop development.” “Culturally sterile and attractions outnumber their warts. deliberately elitist. Beaches still beautiful.” We also recognize that some travel- 36. Roatán, Bay Islands, Honduras (SCORE: 47) ers actually like 24-hour casinos, “Quickly disappearing jewel” invaded by 39. Jamaica, Caribbean (SCORE: 44) “With gargantuan cruise ships, and cruise-ship crowds and mainland “ladino” wonderful natural and cultural assets, it has neonized strips of souvenir stores. laborers, with “rapid uncontrolled develop- lost control.” Panelists cite crime and Many islands recognize their ment” and stresses on coral reefs. “Huge poverty, large all-inclusive “tourist ghettos,” problems and are working to be- new cruise port will increase pressure.” degraded reefs. “Enclave tourism keeps the come sustainable. They realize that culture away from the visitors.” And yet: good stewardship of place not only 36. St. Martin (Neth./Fr.), Caribbean (SCORE: “It’s not too late.” “Port Antonio, the Blue results in a better travel experience, 47) The Dutch side of this binational, Mountains, Cockpit Country, and the south multiethnic island “is a mess: high-rise and coast offer authentic experiences.” but it’s simply smart business. In strip development, loss of community char- fact, places like Curaçao, Grenada, acter, traffic, and schlock.” A new, second 39. Providenciales, Turks and Caicos (SCORE: and Puerto Rico are discussing geo- cruise-ship pier will add to the crowds. The 44) “Isla Generica”: Booming Provo has tourism initiatives that, by definition, French side rates better but lacks a plan “destroyed the beauty of Grace Beach with would use tourism to enhance their to prevent further overbuilding. excessive development.” No sense of place, geographical character, addressing but “diving and waters remain beautiful.” issues related to environment, cul- 36. Cozumel, Mexico (SCORE: 47) “Just no ture, aesthetics, heritage, and the escape from cruise ships”—ten or more at 40. Ibiza, Balearic Islands, Spain (SCORE: 37) well-being of their residents. once. “Cozumel is hardly Mexican anymore. “Really, something is going wrong there.” And remember: Simply because Diving is still a reason to visit,” with gov- Spain’s raver nightlife island is rated as ernment working harder to protect reefs. overdeveloped, with “half lost to the party an island has problems doesn’t circuit.” Still, many panelists thought parts mean it’s not worth visiting. Many 37. Oahu, Hawaii (SCORE: 46) Hit for lack of retain “charm and cultural identity,” with islands are grappling with issues authenticity, environmental stresses, and many islanders striving to regain control. that have yet to affect their quality because “indigenous Hawaiians do not ben- of tourism. Our goal is to alert—not efit from tourism,” Oahu, especially rede- 40. St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands (SCORE: 37) alarm—consumers about issues veloping Waikiki, gets mixed reviews: “A mess—too many cruise ships disgorging that should concern them. To help “Confinement of a large majority of tourists passengers into the small town.” Four out of us all look to the future. to the ten blocks of Waikiki is a modern five visitors are cruise passengers. The cap- This survey is intended to be con- marvel,” but: “Local residents avoid Waiki- ital of “Charlotte Amalie is one big ugly structive. Travelers, the travel ki, and interaction with tourists is missing, jewelry store” with “population density as is the ‘Aloha spirit.’ ” greater than Manhattan when the ships are industry, and the islanders them- in.” Many panelists agree with this charac- selves are in this together. We all 37. Key West, Florida (SCORE: 46) Despite terization: “a totally spoiled, low-quality, seek rewarding getaways—and we praise for fun, heritage, and cultural char- high-volume destination,” while admitting all want them to stay that way. acter, serious problems drag the score that the island retains attractive corners.

PROVIDENCIALES, TURKS AND CAICOS : “What was once the sort of raw, romantic coastline vacationers dream of is now a strip of megahotels on an increasingly crowded beach.” —KIM LISAGOR, JOURNALIST

November/December 2007 127