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Places Rated 4TH ANNUAL PLACES RATED 111 islands The world’s most appealing destinations—islands—are the ones most prone to tourism overkill. Our 522 experts vote on which ones avoid the danger, which are succumbing to it, and which hang in the balance. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot ourism is a phenomenon that can cook your Destinations conducted this fourth annual islands score well. As I write this at a B&B on food or burn your house down. In other words, Destination Scorecard survey, aided by George one of them—Salt Spring, British Columbia— we all risk destroying the very places that we Washington University. A panel of 522 experts I can see why the cost of an average house here love the most. in sustainable tourism and destination stew- begins at half a million dollars. Many islands Nowhere more so than on islands. Islands ardship donated time to review conditions in are losing traditional families to such prices. symbolize vacation. Escape! Their very insu- these 111 selected islands and archipelagos (see All the islands that follow, even the lowest larity makes them more attractive than a com- survey details on page 120). The scores that scoring, have great experiences to discover. parable piece of real estate on the mainland. follow, listed by rank, reflect the experts’ opin- To protect them, to restore them, we must KAOS/SIME (TOP), MUNSHI AHMED/DRR.NET (LEFT) They are worlds unto themselves—their own ions. Quoted phrases from their remarks sug- value them as much as resort developers and traditions, ecosystems, cultures, landscapes. gest the thinking behind the scores. cruise companies do. Even more. That’s what attracts us. But as microworlds, The results show that beach-blessed islands islands are also more vulnerable to population draw sun-and-sand resort tourism develop- Generic vs. authentic: The two faces of Bali mir- pressure, climate change, storm damage, in- ment that can get out of hand quickly. There ror pressures on islands around the world. From t vasive species, and now, tourism overkill. are instructive exceptions: Molokai, Samoa, the surf shop to McDonald’s, a street in Kuta To see how the integrity of islands around Block Island. Multiple cruise-ship crowds can (right) could be in a resort town anywhere. Rice the world is holding up, TRAVELER and our Na- also overwhelm an island, transforming it. paddies near Ubud (above) evoke the true Bali. tional Geographic Center for Sustainable No surprise, then, that cloudy, beach-poor The half-and-half mix earned Bali a score of 57. 108 National Geographic Traveler November/December 2007 109 PLACES RATED A Destination Scorecard A report Our Survey card for Grading System 1. Best Rated 3. In the Balance Score of 77 or Score of 50 to 65. the world’s above. These is- A mix of strong lands are in excel- attributes with lent shape, are potentially seri- islands still relatively ous problems pristine, and are that need imme- likely to remain diate attention. so at least for the BEST-RATED immediate future. 4. In Trouble ISLANDS Score below 50. In excellent shape, relatively 2. Doing Well These islands are unspoiled, and likely to remain so. Score of 66 to 76. facing severe These islands are problems, usually in good shape with excessive Rank: 1. Faroe Islands (Denmark) (SCORE: 87) with only minor tourism among “Lovely unspoiled islands—a delight to the problems. them. traveler.” Remote and cool, and thus safe from overcrowding, the autonomous archi- pelago northwest of the Shetlands earns high marks from panelists for preservation of nature, historic architecture, and local pride. “Spectacular waterfalls and harbors.” 2. Azores, Portugal (SCORE: 84) This temper- Rhodes, ate mid–North Atlantic archipelago’s Greece “green volcanic mountains and picturesque black-and-white towns” offer “driving ISLANDS SCORED IN 2006 tours, handicrafts, and cuisine,” plus an This survey omits a few islands that ecosystem “in great shape” and a “strong appeared only last year in our and vibrant” Portuguese culture. “Locals World Heritage destination survey. are very sophisticated,” but inappropriate These were their 2006 scores: development is beginning to appear. Rapa Nui (Easter Island) 69 3. Lofoten, Norway (SCORE: 82) Chilly, high- Rhodes, Greece 63 latitude islands form a “masterpiece” of Belize reef islands 47 spectacular outcrops steeped in cherished Galápagos, Ecuador 44 tradition. “Many of the villages rent out cozy rorbu, the historic fishermen’s cabins.” “There are several excellent muse- onance for Scots.” With a “renaissance of electric projects may affect attractiveness.” Faroe Islands, Denmark: Borgarin peak over- ums and art galleries.” the Gaelic language,” the largest of the In- Ecotour operators at odds with whalers. shadows a lighthouse in the Faroes (above), ner Hebrides “still retains its romanticism.” an archipelago of steep slopes, grass roofs, 3. Shetland Islands, Scotland (SCORE: 82) 6. Molokai, Hawaii (SCORE: 79) Tops in the and a preservation-minded people who More Norse than Scottish, “Shelties” keep 5. Kangaroo Island, South Australia (SCORE: tropics, Molokai “is 1950s in accommoda- welcome a growing number of visitors. up Viking traditions and show “extremely 80) “Agriculture, tourism, and wilderness” tion,” its rugged coast and minimal beach- Lofoten, Norway: In these chilly but popular high integrity in all aspects of heritage and meld with “high environmental quality and front preventing big-resort development islands with dramatic scenery, you can stay in ecology despite North Sea oil development. local involvement.” Feral pigs and goats, and protecting Hawaiian cultural ways. rorbu, traditional fishermen cottages (right). Great planning controls and attitude.” and introduced koalas do disrupt habitats. “Seems like old Hawaii.” 3. Chiloé, Chile (SCORE: 82) Gateway to Chile’s 5. Mackinac Island, Michigan (SCORE: 80) “No 7. Aran Islands, Ireland (SCORE: 78) The three- 8. Dominica, Caribbean (SCORE: 77) Rugged, fjord country, “rural and unspoiled” Chiloé cars [banned since 1898], no high-rises, and some off the Irish west coast exude Gaelic green, friendly, with few beaches, the “Na- possesses a “pristine seascape, enhanced by little development pressure” earn praise for tradition. Islanders “maintain a strong sense ture Island” offers an “authentic, unspoiled protected forests and dozens of historic the iconic isle in Lake Huron. “Overall the is- of cultural heritage and identity.” Tourism experience, with natural and cultural amen- towns and wooden churches, 16 of which land is a gem. Downtown is a bit too touristy.” management gets good reviews. ities.” Downside issues: support for Japan are on the UNESCO World Heritage list.” on whaling and a proposed oil refinery. 5. Iceland (SCORE: 80) Dramatic landscapes, 7. Texel, Netherlands (SCORE: 78) Well-cared- 4. Isle of Skye, Scotland (SCORE: 81) unique culture, and high environmental for Dutch holiday island on the Waddenzee. 8. Grenadines, Caribbean (SCORE: 77) “Un- “Wild landscape and a place of cultural res- awareness, but “new smelters and hydro- “Nice low-key destination for cyclists.” spoiled beauty,” not too developed, and great yachting, although yacht discharge • SEE MANY MORE COMMENTS on each of these destinations at www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler pollutes local waters. Authentic—“one of GRANT DIXON/LONELY PLANET IMAGES (ABOVE), VICTOR SPINELLI/ZUMA PRESS (ABOVE, RIGHT), PER-ANDRE HOFFMAN/AURORA PHOTOS (RIGHT) the last, best hopes of the Caribbean.” 110 National Geographic Traveler November/December 2007 111 PLACES RATED A Destination Scorecard ISLE OF SKYE: “A mixture of activities and stunning scenery combine to leave a long pleasant aftertaste—just like a dram of local malt whisky.” —HUGH GOVAN, MARINE BIOLOGIST 9. Falkland Islands (U.K.) (SCORE: 76) Wild, bleak, and culturally British; a stopover for Antarctic cruises. Notable problem: Leftover landmines from the 1982 war inhibit hiking. 10. Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia (SCORE: 75) Vibrant Acadian and Celtic heritage mix with coastal panoramas on the “top notch” Cabot Trail. Tourism helps combat “high unemployment and out-migration.” 10. Corsica, France (SCORE: 75) “Fantastic mix of mountains, beaches, and strong cultural identity.” The independent-minded Corsi- cans maintain one of the Mediterranean’s last isles sheltered from mass tourism. Well, almost: “Still a gem, but not in August.” 11. Vanuatu, Melanesia (SCORE: 74) “Tradition- al villages, active volcanism, the world’s best kava.” Multicultural archipelago’s “hospit- able people” don’t benefit enough from tour- ism. “Outer islands are of untold beauty.” Aran Islands, Ireland: Stone walls define the 11. Santa Catalina Island, California (SCORE: landscape on Inishmore (above), where heavy 74) “Lots of visitors,” but most stay in Aval- ISLANDS but well-managed tourism keeps the econo- on. Catalina Conservancy protects nature, DOING WELL my going and the islands populated. although area must recover from the May Retaining sense of place, with a few Molokai, Hawaii: A cliff-lined coast (below) 2007 fire. “Catalina works, for what it is.” surmountable problems. discourages overdevelopment but favors kayaking on the survey’s best-scoring warm- 12. Upolu and Savai’i, Samoa, Polynesia weather island. Corsica, France: Culture, (SCORE: 73) Praised for cultural integrity, or 9. Tasmania, Australia (SCORE: 76) “Great, but history, and nature combine in places like fa’a Samoa, the “Samoan way.” “Family tour- needs to reduce logging” sums up panelist Pointe de la Parata, with its medieval watch- ism
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