’s History and Guide

Trisha Sofa Copyright © 2020 Trisha Sofa All rights reserved.

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Contents Where Did the Taco Come From? Ultimate Guide to Tacos in City What is a taco? Classic tacos you need to try Tacos Tacos de guisado Regional and unique tacos you need to try Street tacos in Salsas and toppings How to eat tacos like a local! The Best Cities for Taco Lovers 1. Las Vegas, NV 2. Salt Lake City, UT 3. Orlando, FL 4. Bakersfield, CA 5. Miami, FL 6. Santa Ana, CA 7. Tucson, AZ 8. San Antonio, TX 9. Denver, CO 10. Anaheim, CA 25 Essential Tacos Tacos árabes Barbacoa Buche Campechanos Carnitas Cecina Chicharrón De canasta/al vapor Huitlacoche Lengua Pescado Pollo Res Sesos Suadero de res Where Did the Taco Come From?

Jeffrey M. Pilcher, professor of history at the University of Minnesota, has traveled around the world eating tacos. For the past 20 years, he has investigated the history, politics and evolution of Mexican food, including how Mexican silver miners likely invented the taco, how in the Southwest reinvented it, and how businessman Glen Bell mass-marketed it to Anglo palates via the crunchy Taco Bell shell. Pilcher is author and editor, respectively, of the forthcoming Planet Taco: A Global History of Mexican Food (Oxford University Press) and The Oxford Handbook of Food History. His previous books include The Sausage Rebellion: Public Health, Private Enterprise, and Meat in Mexico City, 1890- 1917 and Que vivan los ! Food and the Making of Mexican Identity.

To where have you traced the birth of the taco? And what about the origin of the word itself?

The origins of the taco are really unknown. My theory is that it dates from the 18th century and the silver mines in Mexico, because in those mines the word “taco” referred to the little charges they would use to excavate the ore. These were pieces of paper that they would around gunpowder and insert into the holes they carved in the rock face. When you think about it, a chicken with a good hot sauce is really a lot like a stick of dynamite. The first references [to the taco] in any sort of archive or dictionary come from the end of the 19th century. And one of the first types of tacos described is called tacos de minero—miner’s tacos. So the taco is not necessarily this age-old cultural expression; it’s not a food that goes back to time immemorial.

What role did the taquería play in Mexican history? Who ate there?

For a long time taquerías were in the working-class neighborhoods. Industrialization brought migrants from all over the country, and particularly women, to Mexico City because of light industry. Women brought with them their regional cooking skills. Every state, every region, every town has slightly different foods, so Mexico City was a bubbling stew where all these foods were available. People were able to sample a cosmopolitan world of dining that was not for the rich. This Mexican popular cuisine was the origin of what we think about as Mexican food.

You note that in Mexico, what constitutes “authentic” national food has been an ongoing discussion. When have alternatively embraced European or Indigenous foods, and why?

The Spanish conquistadors looked down on Native foods and tried to bring European foods with them. One of the reasons for this was religion. Corn was associated with Native deities, and wheat was the grain used for the holy Eucharist. These foods also had social connotations. In the 19th century, Native food was considered lower class and European food was considered elite, but here’s the catch: there was recognition that these Native foods were Mexican. So the patriots, the Mexican nationals, wanted to claim that they were really Mexican. So poblano, which is a turkey in this sauce—very spicy—was considered somewhere in between [upper and lower class]. It was not associated with the Natives who were still alive; it was associated with the glories of the Aztecs. People who were of European ancestry claimed, “We are the descendants not of these lower-class Natives all around us, but of the Aztec emperors.” It gave them a political legitimacy.

When did the taco first make an appearance in the U.S. and where? What groups were instrumental in making it popular here?

The first mention that I have seen [in the U.S.] is in 1905, in a newspaper. That’s a time when Mexican migrants are starting to come—working the mines and railroads and other such jobs. In the United States, Mexican food was seen as , lower-class food. It was associated with a group of women called the Chili Queens and with pushcarts in Los Angeles. The Chili Queens of San Antonio were street vendors who earned a little extra money by selling food during festivals. When tourists started arriving in the 1880s with the railroad, these occasional sales started to become a nightly event. Tourists came looking for two things in San Antonio— the Alamo and the Chili Queens. Mexico was considered a dangerous place. The Chili Queens were a way of sampling that danger, but not at the risk of being robbed by bandits. The risk was that the food was hot—people described it as “biting like a serpent.” These women were also sexualized and seen as “available.” So the idea was that you would flirt with the Chili Queens. I think that image of [something] exotic, slightly dangerous, but still appealing has really persisted with Mexican food.

When does the taco become a mainstream American food?

The children of those migrants who came in 1910 or 1920 are starting to advance economically. They’re gaining civil rights; many of them fought in World War II and are claiming citizenship. Their incomes are going up and they’re eating more diverse things, but they’re still eating Mexican. A lot of Mexican American tacos are really adaptations of Mexican food to the ingredients that are available through the U.S. food-processing industry. instead of offal meat. Cheddar cheese, iceberg lettuce, tomato— these are all foods that Mexican-Americans start to incorporate into their diet.

So at the same time, what’s happening with tacos in Mexico?

You’re also starting to see new migrants coming into Mexico. For example, there are a lot of Lebanese migrants, and one of the things they bring with them is , or gyros—vertical where they cook lamb, and they put it on little breads. But when they start putting [the meat] on tortillas, they’re called tacos arabes: Arab tacos. Again, it’s the second generation, the children of these Lebanese migrants, who change the recipe a little bit and start using instead of lamb. And they start adding a little . Tacos al pastor, which really doesn’t catch on until the 1960s, then becomes a standard Mexican dish that’s everywhere.

You talk about how the taco business in post-World War II Los Angeles illustrated increasing segregation in the city. What did the location of taco shops—including Glen Bell’s Taco Bell— say about how the taco was being “assimilated” into American culture?

Glen Bell borrowed everything about the taco from his Mexican neighbors. He did not invent the taco. What he did was bring a U.S. business model called franchising. I mapped out where these taco shops were, and I found there were no shops—or very few—in East L.A., the biggest Mexican neighborhood in all of California. I was like, “How can this possibly be?” And I realized that Mexicans, when they were selling to other Mexicans, were not calling their restaurants taco shops. The word “taco” in a restaurant name was actually a way of selling Mexican food to non-Mexicans. What Glen Bell was doing was allowing Americans of other racial and ethnic groups to sample Mexican food without actually going in to Mexican neighborhoods.

What made the fast-food taco possible?

The fast-food taco is a product of something called the “taco shell,” a tortilla that has been pre-fried into that characteristic U-shape. If you read Glen Bell’s authorized biography, he says he invented the taco shell in the 1950s, and that it was his technological breakthrough. Mexicans were cooking tacos to order—fresh—and Glen Bell, by making then ahead, was able to serve them faster. But when I went into the U.S. patent office records, I found the original patents for making taco shells were awarded in the 1940s to Mexican restaurateurs, not to Glen Bell.

So when do you see evidence of the hard-shell taco first becoming popular?

Already in the 1940s, Mexican cookbooks are describing the way to make these, by taking a tortilla, frying it, and bending it over to form that U-shape. It’s hard to say when people started doing this for the first time, but clearly its being done at least a decade before Glen Bell claims to have invented it.

Did the taco lead the way toward a broader commercialization of Mexican food in general?

The taco shell is crucial for taking Mexican food outside of Mexican communities. Corn tortillas do not keep very well. They’re sort of like doughnuts—if you get a fresh doughnut, it tastes really good. If you get one that’s been setting around for weeks, not so good. If the taco shell is fried beforehand, you can wrap it up in plastic and keep it sitting around until somebody wants to use it.

Has the American-born taco circulated back to Mexico? How has the wave of Mexican immigrants to the U.S. in the last 20 years changed food on both sides of the border?

Lets just say that the Mexicans have been a lot more successful at bringing their Mexican food to the United States than Americans have at bringing their Mexican food to Mexico. Taco Bell has tried on a couple occasions to establish restaurants in Mexico, and they have invariably closed down very quickly. But I think Mexican regional tacos—like tacos al pastor, tacos de barbacoa—are becoming increasingly popular in the United States. I think the reason for that is Americans want something they perceive as being a more authentic variety. They want the “real” thing.

What are some of your favorite taco joints in the U.S. today?

Tacos are street food. Where I like to go in Minneapolis is the Mercado Central, which is a little Mexican market on Lake Street. It’s got a number of vendors who are Mexican, and they make the kind of food they had back in Mexico. To me it’s like a little vacation. You can find these kinds of places all over the country now. There’s a whole world of fancy Mexican food, but every place where there are Mexican migrants you’re going to find some good tacos.

Ultimate Guide to Tacos in Mexico City is so rich that UNESCO named it an intangible cultural heritage of mankind, however it’s tacos that are king - the best Mexico city street food you can get. Tacos play such a big part in Mexican lifestyle, for which streets and markets are so central, that talking about new puestos (food stalls) and debating about tortillas, filling and salsas is typical among Chilangos, and has become a natural way of life for me too. A handy food for on the go, even with as little as 48 hours in the capital you will be able to eat your way around the city in tacos, all while exploring its must see attractions. In this Mexico City taco guide we want to share our love for the best tacos in Mexico City. But of course, all the local intel on the best places to eat in Mexico city is of little use without knowing the types of tacos you can get and, of course, how to eat them like a local, so we’ve included all of that too! What is a taco? Taco has two immediate meanings, one relates to the word for “in between” – because, like an edible tool, the tortilla is able to hold food in the center – and tlaxcalli which, when translated from Nahuatl means “tortilla”; a sine qua non for a taco. From the binary of a tortilla and the fillings that come “in between”, this quintessential Mexican dish is formed. Before the conquest, tacos were filled with everything from beans and chile to crickets and maguey worms, but nowadays present far more varied options. The taco, officially recognised as a part of the cultural heritage of Mexico, is made out of corn or wheat depending on the region. With the versatile tortilla as a base ingredient, the name of the dish may change depending on how it is prepared; whether fried to become a , or (slightly thicker) filled with meat and called a . , stuffed with melted cheese, mushrooms, and zucchini flower (to name a few) and – made with a wheat tortilla and served as a wrap holding meat, rice, beans, sour cream, and – are just a few tortilla treasures that answer the question of what to eat in Mexico city. But it’s still the taco who wins it all. Classic tacos you need to try Of course the first taco that you must try is the capital’s signature; tacos al pastor (tacos shepherd style). This historic dish, based on the shawarma’s spit-grilled meat, was brought to Mexico by Lebanese immigrants in the early 20th century. Although now different from the original, tacos al pastor are made with pork, not lamb as they were when the first Lebanese migrants arrived, and they are served on a . Apart from the traditional toppings of and , al pastor must be garnished with a pineapple slice. For the best tacos in Mexico City of this kind head to El Huequito in the city center, El Vilsito in Narvarte, or to El Califa if you’re elsewhere to experience Mexico city tacos like a local.

Meat Tacos Although you can find some vegetarian options, meat is the king among tacos filling, with some of the most typical being longaniza (a sausage similar to chorizo), suadero (skirt, flank or brisket beef), and campechano (a mixture of the two). Cooked in a sizzling choriceros, large metal pans, for hours, the meat is then chopped on a wooden block and delivered on a warm, usually hand- made, tortilla. There are plenty of good taquerías to eat these at, but a favorite at the moment is Los Cocuyos in the city center. For a taco after a late night out, head to one of the taquerías Orinoco or to the historical Chupacabra, if you’re in Coyoacan. If you prefer fish, go to Chico Julio in the La Roma neighborhood. Carnitas If meat is the typical filling of a taco, pork, carnita, is the king among . You can have pretty much any part of the animal served on a tortilla. Among the different types of breakfast tacos, those of carnitas must be tender, moist, juicy and riddled with plenty of well- browned crisp edges. In Mexico City we have street markets very similar to the ones you’ll find at the Chinese Quarter in Paris (no kidding) and at these markets the culinary experience is unbeatable. For some reason, the best tacos carnitas can be found in these street markets. When I am in La Roma on Saturday I never miss the chance to pay a visit to Meche y Rafael to eat some delicious tacos carnitas. This taquerìa is located in a very unique market, Mercado Medellin, nicknamed Little Havana, as it offers products not only from Mexico but also from all over Latin America. Another great option is El Gran Abanico.

Barbacoa After a wild Saturday night you may want to lift your spirit with this classic taco combo. The typical taco for a Sunday breakfast or brunch and hands down the best cure for a hangover is the barbacoa with the typical accompaniment, a chickpea consommé made using the same meat – lamb slowly cooked in a pit oven. A pre-Hispanic form of cooking meat, from which the term barbecue derives, nowadays it refers to slow-cooked meats, typically lamb, over an open fire, or more traditionally, in a hole dug in the ground covered with maguey leaves. Don’t miss out on this tender, flavourful meat and head to Barbacoa Edison, just behind the monument of the Revolution, or to one of the tianguis (pop-up markets), such as that in Portales, a southern area still untouched by gentrification. Tacos de guisado As in any big city, urban life doesn’t always allow for a home-cooked meal. So in CDMX the home-cooked meal has come to the street in the form of tacos de guisado. The filling, stewed meat and veggies, are usually prepared off-site and placed in ceramic pots called cazuelas to keep them warm. These ancient and not at all flashy tacos come with endless variations as any ingredient that can be stewed has likely been used to make a taco de guisado somewhere in Mexico. Head to Tacos Hola in La Roma and try a favorite, chicharrón en verde (pork cracklings in a green tomato sauce). Regional and unique tacos you need to try Hunting for the best Mexico city tacos is the true adventure, and finding the perfect one is like finding gems or gold. Seriously. The taco industry has reached other countries, we can find tacos in Abu Dhabi, Angkor Wat, Tokyo or New Dehli, but every country has its own ways of cooking, which is why a taco made in Mexico retains a mystique unrivaled by foreign tacos. When it comes to where to eat tacos in Mexico city, you have to hit the pavement. As the sun rises over Mexico City, hundreds of taco stands flood the streets; so many per capita that the temptation to try one is inescapable. As a big city, the concentration of global cuisines is high, with food from every country gathering in this multicultural space, but it’s tacos that still win out, with tacos de birria found outside almost every metro station. You’ll find these at metro Juanacatlan, and these are known for their excellent, gentle taste. Don’t forget the hot soup that brings the flavor of the taco to life, nor the red spicy sauce, cured onion and lemon to garnish it with. Street tacos in Mexico city Street tacos in Mexico city are everywhere; a favorite of which can be found right in the corner of Manzanillo and Campeche at Roma Sur, only on weekends, no other day. In Condesa we have a couple of street markets every Tuesday and Friday on Nuevo Leon and Campeche. The best tacos al pastor, iconic to Mexico city street food, are found downtown in a very small place called El Huequito in Ayuntamiento Street, close to Eje central. In the same street, but at the corner of Balderas, the cochinta from Yucatan Tacos are an unrivaled experience – here toppings are mandatory for the full experience, so add cured onion and habanero sauce (just a few drops). And remember, the cochinita tacos need to be made Michoacan style otherwise you are wasting your time! Saudero tacos (beef) are traditional juicy meat tacos, fried in a deep large casserole where the meat, chorizo and meet to do a fantastic dance on your taste buds. For these there’s only one place for me; at the north of the city, close to the Shrine of Guadalupe, on Garrido and Hidalgo street. If these regional must eat Mexico city tacos are making your mouth water, what are waiting for? Visit immediately! Salsas and toppings No, this isn’t necessarily the case. Whatever the filling, make sure to sprinkle your taco with some , garnish your taco with some chopped onions and coriander and don’t forget one of the amazing salsas that are offered at every taquería’s counter. Salsas are another Mexican paradise, and recipes are kept like family secrets from generation to generation. Embedded in the culture of street food but new to the stage of global flavor, these have not yet been softened for foreign tastebuds, so be careful not to let a super spicy sauce ruin your food. I would strongly recommend trying a little bit before pouring a full scoop over your taco. The great variety of Mexican chilies is reflected in these salsas. The basic ones are red – made out of dry red jalapeños and red tomato this can be mild or spicy it depending on the grandmother who originated it – and green – with green tomatoes and green jalapeño. Then you can have sauces of peanut or pineapple, just to mention some. There’s also usually an avocado sauce that is not to be confused with guacamole because despite a soft green creamy look the avocado sauce can be very spicy. In some taco stands, they also have which is tomato chops, onion and chopped jalapeño in tiny pieces, it can be delicious to put as a topping too. If your mouth starts burning, te enchilaste, as they say, don’t worry – every real Mexican must experience this! How to eat tacos like a local! Eating a taco is all an art and a Mexican can definitely tell somebody who is having one for the first time. However, rule number one is that you must eat your taco by hand, at a taquería or in one of the amazing places to eat in the capital. Grab the taco with three fingers raising your little finger, and tilt your head a little to bite the taco from the side. To eat like a local in Mexico city, especially when eating a taco, requires practice – like when playing an instrument, the tortilla and the stuffing played together like the strings and the body of a guitar – how to roll the taco and your hand position is related to the angle of the plate and inclination of your head. The best way to learn is to watch the locals do it. Don’t worry about dropping some of the fillings onto your plate; it is basically inevitable if you are not a Mexican pro. There is only one thing left to say, provecho! (enjoy your meal), and don’t forget to wish the same to the people close by! The Best Cities for Taco Lovers

1. Las Vegas, NV

Surprised to see that Sin City is the country's top spot for taco lovers? Consider that the Hispanic population of Las Vegas is booming, which means authentic Mexican food that can rival what you'll find south of the border. You'll enjoy no fewer than 454 Mexican restaurants here, and yes, most of the good ones can be found off of The Strip. Sure, you'll find favorites like Nacho Daddy and Tacos El Gordo in the heart of the action on the strip, but true taco lovers venture off the beaten path for guacamole made tableside at El Dorado Cantina or mole poblano at Las Cazuelas. 2. Salt Lake City, UT

A city associated with ample ski resorts, Salt Lake City also has a large proportion of Mexican restaurants for its relatively small population of 200,000. And, let's be honest, what tastes better than a plate of tacos and fresh-made guacamole after hitting the slopes all day or hiking Utah's Wasatch Mountains? Whether you're hankering for fish tacos at Lone Star Taqueria or cochinita pibil at the wildly popular Red Iguana, Salt Lake has plenty of excellent Mexican food to tempt your taste buds, tacos included. 3. Orlando, FL

If you're like most people, Orlando makes you think theme park central. You're not wrong, thanks to more than a dozen such parks running the gamut from Walt Disney World to Universal Studios' Wizarding World of Harry Potter. Guess what else Orlando has a lot of? Yep, Mexican restaurants — 168 to be exact. Suffice it to say, you'll find what you're looking for among Orlando's spread of taco spots. From famed tamales and fantastic flan to restaurants built around booze (think tequila bars and mezcalerias), locals and tourists alike appreciate the variety found here in this tasty corner of Florida. 4. Bakersfield, CA

Located about two hours north of Los Angeles, Bakersfield is famous for an influential genre of country music dating back to the 1950s made famous by Buck Owens and Merle Haggard. Today, the Bakersfield Sound is alive and well at Buck Owens' Crystal Palace, a music venue and eatery where Mexican food makes only the briefest of appearances. Fortunately, there are 184 places to eat around here where Mexican food is most definitely on the menu. From the beloved Nuestro Mexico restaurant with its chicken mole enchiladas and to street tacos at popular food trucks like Vatos Tacos, there's a lot to love about the eats in this Central Valley City. 5. Miami, FL

Prefer your beaches with white sand and warm turquoise waters? One of only two cities to crack our list from outside the western half of the country is way down south in Miami. And beyond its renowned nightlife, art deco architecture and dreamy beaches, this South Florida city is well-known for its killer Mexican cuisine. Sure, the city is celebrated for its Cuban food, but you'll also find more than 200 Mexican restaurants in the mix.

6. Santa Ana, CA

Located about 20 minutes inland from Huntington Beach (a.k.a. Surf City) and tony Newport Beach, the seat of Orange County has the highest ratio of Mexican restaurants on our top 10. Living in Santa Ana means that nearly 28 percent of all restaurants in your vicinity will be the kind where meals generally include chips, salsa and . Good news for taco lovers! Santa Ana is home to 6 out of 10 of the best taco spots in Orange County — three of which are favorites for their Al Pastor (Taqueria Tapatia #2, Tacos Sinaloa, Taqueria el Zamorano). Like a taco with a little — or a whole lot — of heat? Don't miss the chicken diablo taco at Taqueria Zamora. If easy access to world-famous beaches plus a stacked selection of Mexican restaurants sounds like your speed, it may be time to start saving your pennies. 7. Tucson, AZ

The University of Arizona and its nearly 45,000 students are a big part of Tucson. Good thing the co-eds are fans of Mexican food. Mexican restaurants account for nearly 20 percent of the dining scene here, which means you'll find more tacos, tostadas and than you can shake a handmade tortilla at. Not sure where to start? Try the Cadillac margaritas and famous platter at El Charro Café or the crispy green chile at Seis Kitchen. From there, just follow your gut — or at least its grumbling. 8. San Antonio, TX

The only Texas city that cracked our top 10 also boasts the highest number of Mexican restaurants. We dare you to sample the salsa at all 684 San Antonio outposts. Home of the Alamo and the festive River Walk flanking the San Antonio River, this Lone Star City boasts a rich Mexican heritage. People of Mexican origin make up 91.3 percent of the city's Hispanic Tejano population, which total more than 54 percent of the local population. What does that mean for you? You guessed it — ah- mazing Mexican cuisine. Expect Tex-Mex staples, mariachi music and delicious bakery delicacies like (Mexican sweet bread).

You'll find local landmarks like the 75+-year-old Mi Tierra Café to brand-new restaurants like Evo Contemporary Mexican Cuisine. 9. Denver, CO

Colorado's capital is more than just a jumping-off point for skiers looking to carve up the Rockies. There's good reason people from all over the country are beelining to the Mile-High City in record number, what with the stunning natural beauty, a thriving economy and 300 days of sunshine a year. Oh, and did we mention the tacos? With a whopping 309 Mexican restaurants, it'll take you a few years to scour the city for your favorite fajitas. Start your tasty exploration with local favorites like La Loma's Southwest-style Mexican cuisine (don't miss the green chile and stuffed sopapillas), Benny's for liters of margaritas and killer .

10. Anaheim, CA

Anaheim isn't just home to Disneyland, the Anaheim Ducks and The Angels. This Orange County city also boasts 151 Mexican restaurants, which makes up a grande 22 percent of the city's total restaurants. The OC's Mexican cuisine scene is strong, to say the least, and Anaheim is no slouch. From tacos al pastor at local favorite Taqueria Los Gueros to carne asada at Sabrosa Mexican Grill, Anaheim has a lot to offer when it comes to authentic Mexican food that's worth braving the busy 5 freeway for.

25 Essential Tacos

The taco is deceptively simple by reputation. But the reality is: So much goes into the preparation for the myriad fillings of the ubiquitous taco that to dismiss this handheld meal as no more than street food is a huge disservice. Mexican food is a UNESCO- designated cultural treasure, and in the taco category, these vessels of masa, meat or meat-like proteins and are widely varied.

But it's also easy to get lost among all the options to stuff in tortillas and fall back on the basics. Which is fine, but if you're not exploring the wide-world of taco fillings, you're doing your palate a disservice. To give you the knowledge you need to live your best taco life, we enlisted the expertise of Steven Alvarez, an assistant English professor at St. John’s University in Queens who came to fame when he started teaching a taco literacy course at the University of Kentucky. We discussed the origins and mythology behind some of the most popular tacos around and came to the conclusion that it could very well take years of study to tell the stories of every taco imaginable. But here's a handy guide to the taco fillings you're most likely to come across. Al pastor

Pronunciation guide: tah-ko all pass-tor Tacos al pastor, the more famous cousin to the taco árabe, loosely translated to “shepherd-style” pork. The meat is marinated in a blend of chilies and , then slow-cooked on trompo using an open flame. The spinning mound of pork is usually topped with a pineapple, of which thin flecks are often garnished on top of the protein for a sweet, tangy kick.

Tacos árabes

Pronunciation guide: tah-ko aar-ah-bez One distinct dish that showcases the culinary connection between the Middle East and Mexico is the taco árabes, which utilizes flavorful slices of pork (a departure from halal-friendly proteins of the Arab/Muslim-majority region) from a trompo or spit. The marinated pork is then stuffed into a pillowy, pita-like .

Barbacoa

Pronunciation guide: bar-bah-ko-ah Traditionally, Alvarez says barbacoa refers to the style of cooking meat by the Taino people of the Caribbean. In Mexico, it refers to slow-cooking over an open flame or in a hole dug into the ground until the fatty protein is tender. In and in south Texas' Rio Grande Valley, the economic-yet-flavorful beef head or beef cheeks (cachete) or goat () is often utilized and served at eateries on weekends, such as at Vera’s Backyard Bar-B-Que in Brownsville.

Birria

Pronunciation guide: bier-ee-ah Head to Guadalajara in the western Mexican state of Jalisco, and you’ll find the country’s birria capitol. A spicy meat stew, usually prepared with goat that’s marinated in a spicy -based broth, birria street vendors are commonplace all over the region. Often served during weddings or other special occasions, birria is traditionally a special occasion dish, but also often comes in taco form. Surrounding states like Michoacán, parts of , and Zacatecas -- which specializes in birria de res (beef) -- also make variations of the dish.

Buche

Pronunciation guide: boo-chay Buche refers to the stomach of the pig. When stewed for several hours with a variety of spices and chiles, the meat breaks down to a tender, somewhat chewy texture. Most would consider buche to be less spongy than beef tripe. If you’re squeamish, I recommend ordering it well-done for slightly crunchy ends.

Cabeza

Pronunciation guide: kah-bay-zah The meat from the head of a cow is particularly flavorful, typically only requiring salt. Sometimes it’s braised to tenderness, while other taquerias may serve it al vapor or steamed. Some spots may only utilize the cheeks, such is the case with barbacoa, while carnicerias may prepare the head whole.

Campechanos

Pronunciation guide: cahm-pay-cha-nohz Typical in southern Mexico such as in the states of Campeche and Tabasco, campechanos are for when you can’t get enough meat in your life. Tacos campechanos are often made with a combination of whatever is leftover to create a new, complex-in-flavor medley of meats. Usually, it’s a combination of carne asada or cecina de res (thinly sliced beef), longaniza (a spicy pork sausage) or chorizo and maybe chicarrón, providing a balanced mix of salty, spicy and crunchy.

Carne asada

Pronunciation guide: kar-nay ah-saw-dah Carne asada literally translates to grilled meat, but in this context it’s referring to ranchera or flap steak from the short loin section of a cow. Carne asada is typical in the northern frontier states, in particular Sonora. The meat is usually marinated in a blend of citrus juices, , and other spices and then simply grilled. This particular cut of meat is especially thin, making it easy to just grab a hunk with a tortilla and eat it plain, but in taquerias the protein is typically chopped into small bits.

Carnitas

Pronunciation guide: kar-nee-tahs The state of Michoacán is carnitas country. Translating literally to little meats, carnitas is made with shredded pork shoulder that’s braised or simmered for several hours in its own fat until tender so that the meat easily comes apart. The slow cooking brings out a simple pork flavor, and if done right the shredded meat bits come out slightly crispy on the ends.

Cecina

Pronunciation guide: seh-see-nah Cecina, or carne, refers to beef or pork that’s been expertly thinly sliced, salted, and dried partially in sheets or strips in the air, sun, or smoke. For beef, a large piece is marinated in a coating of chili pepper, essentially turning it into a continuous roll of slices. The result is a somewhat smoky slice of meat that easily folds into a tortilla, with no need for chopping up into small bits.

Chapulines

Pronunciation guide: cha-poo-leen-es Deriving from the Nahuatl language, chapulines are grasshoppers and are commonly eaten in parts of Mexico. In more recent years chapulines have been touted as one of the most sustainable food sources in the world, though they have been a staple in southern Mexico for centuries. They are often dried and toasted and flavored with lime juice, , and sometimes chili, making for a protein-rich, low-fat, savory, earthy, and crunchy snack, not unlike a bowl of dried shrimp. They can be eaten alone such as at sporting events, but chapulines are also often sprinkled into tacos, tostadas, and even .

Chicharrón

Pronunciation guide: chee-chah-rroan Most of you are probably familiar with chicharones as pork rinds, or fried pork skins. Alone, chicharrones are a satisfying snack while watching the big futbol game. But as a taco filling, they take on a whole new quality. Tacos de chicharrón are soft, not crispy, after being simmered in for a spicy, somewhat chewy (but in a good way) combination.

Chorizo

Pronunciation guide: choh-ree-soh The Spanish ruled over Mexico for centuries, bringing their language, Catholicism, cattle, and disease. They also brought chorizo, which in Spain is usually cured and smoked. In Mexico, it’s sold fresh and uncooked. Mexican chorizo is a blend of minced meat -- typically pork (though other meats are also utilized) -- that’s seasoned with spicy chili peppers. To cook it, the ground meat is removed from its casing. The state of Toluca is considered the capital of chorizo and is available in bright-red or green.

Cochinita pibil

Pronunciation guide: ko-chee-neeta pee-beel In the south of Mexico from the Yucatan Peninsula, cochinita pibil reigns supreme. Instead of beef, a suckling pig is marinated with many of the region’s citric juices, such as bitter oranges, lemons, limes or . The pig is usually seasoned with annatto seed, giving it a burnt orange hue, then wrapped in a banana leaf and slow roasted. The result of the slow cooking is an incredibly tender meat.

Cueritos Pronunciation guide: que-ree-toz Cueritos refers to pig skin, but don’t confuse them to chicharrones (see above). Instead of deep frying, these thin strips of skin are pickled in vinegar and seasoned with chilis, peppers, , and other spices.

De canasta/al vapor

Pronunciation guide: de caan-ahs-tah, all vah-poor No, not a filling, but rather a style of taco that translates to basket for the vessel they sit in after they’ve been made. , also known as tacos al vapor or tacos sudados (sweaty), start with a fried tortilla that’s filled with ingredients that have the ability to sit out for several hours at a time. Once assembled, they’re steamed and are later sold from a basket by street vendors, particularly in Mexico City (they can also be found in many chilango restaurants stateside). While DF vendors fill them with all kinds of ingredients like tinga or cochinita pibil, the ones filled with potato (which is mashed to a puree consistency) or tend to hold up the best.

Huitlacoche

Pronunciation guide: whee-tla-ko-cheh Most of the meat fillings can be traced to Spanish colonialism, with the introduction of livestock to the Americas. But there’s one ingredient that has been quintessentially tied to Mexico’s identity long before the Spaniard invasion and that’s corn. And with corn comes huitlacoche. Known by several other names, including Mexican truffle, or corn mushroom, huitlacoche is a fungus that grows on organic corn and is extremely rare. But if you do come across huitlacoche on the menu of a Mexican eatery, devour it. When heated or canned (you’re not likely to find the fresh variety in most U.S. establishments), the usually white, velvety morsels turn an inky black and the flavor has a rich earthiness to it, similar to that of a mushroom.

Lengua

Pronunciation guide: lane-goo-wah Spanish for , some say lengua is too chewy, but if done correctly, that’s not the case. Slow cooked for several hours, then chopped into small, uniform chunks, the texture is smoother and more buttery than other cuts of beef.

Pescado

Pronunciation guide: pes-skah-doh While fish tacos can be found on menus everywhere, the birthplace of the original is , which sits along the Pacific Ocean directly south of the US California. They usually consist of a fried or grilled white fish filet that’s topped with cabbage or lettuce, pico de gallo salsa, and some sort of creamy sauce -- either sour cream or a citrusy mayo. Many Baja-area fish taco vendors also make tacos with camarones (shrimp) that are dressed in the same manner.

Pollo

Pronunciation guide: poy-yo This should be obvious: Pollo means chicken. And if you see this on a menu, the pollo is usually marinated and grilled and then cut into chunks, while other times it’s shredded to make tinga (see below). Sometimes, chefs give the chicken a southern-fried twist. And if you’ve been to Taco Bell relatively recently, you might have seen the pollo act as a deep fried shell.

Res

Pronunciation guide: Rayz Another basic entry, but necessary if Spanish is not your strong suit. Res means beef or livestock. So if you see it as part of any menu item, just know it know it’s gonna be cow-related.

Sesos

Pronunciation guide: ses-ohs If lengua is smooth, sesos (cow brains) are custard. The texture is often favored by those who prefer a silky soft meat. Preparation involves boiling down the head until the meat falls off the bone, then gets seasoned or either braised or grilled.

Suadero de res

Pronunciation guide: swaw-de-roh de ray-s Suadero de res calls for the section of beef between the belly and leg. The meat is stewed in lard for several hours, then fried, resulting in a slightly crisp caramelization. Alvarez says most often, tacos de suadero are associated with Mexico City.

Tinga

Pronunciation guide: teen-gah For folks wanting to steer away from shredded pork, beef, goat, lamb or some of the other meaty fillings, there’s chicken tinga with origins in the the state of . Typically flavorful chicken thighs are braised in a tomato- chili sauce and then shredded.

Tripas

Pronunciation guide: tree-pahz Usually referring to the cow’s stomach or intestines, tripas require cleaning, boiling, and cooking to avoid a rubbery texture. Traditionally, especially in farming areas, tripas are often prepared in a “disco” made with two tiling discs, which are stacked on top of each other and have a pole welded in the middle. It kind resembles a wok. In the upper disc, the tripas are boiled and cooked and the lower disc holds the charcoal or wood used to heat the ingredients.