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Home , Elizabeth Arden, Firmenich, Joy (perfume), Sephora

ISSUE #53 MAY 14, 2021

A Publication of WWD

Scents of Health As part of their universal quest for wellness, consumers are looking for fragrances that do much more than just smell great. For more, see pages 8 and 9. PLUS: Cindy Crawford launches and the big pivot in packaging. ILLUSTRATION BY ANDRESSA MEISSNER THE BUZZ 2 MAY 14, 2021 Beauty Bulletin

By the Numbers: Trendalytics’ Predictions For May in Emerging Trends Trends for the month include travel-friendly product formats and renewed interest in fragrance. BY JAMES MANSO

AS CONSUMERS adjust their mind-sets to post-pandemic living, luxuries like travel and fragrance are coming back to the fore. New data from Trendalytics shows heightening interest in from top left: travel-friendly and waterless The Latest Robin Mason; products. “People are starting Bruno Jovanovic; to see the end of the tunnel with Meridith Webster; Nance Hastings; the pandemic,” said Cece Lee Beauty Ellery Fisher; Arnold, chief executive officer of Dawn Francisco; Trendalytics. Maya H. Brown; Joel Porter; In the wake of the pandemic, Amy Calhoun Robb; interest in fragrance — which was Executive Christy Lee. hit hard in the first half of 2020 — is also burgeoning. Lee Arnold Moves posited that the renewed interest was twofold. ¬ In the beauty industry’s latest affairs, effective May 17. She is the Dawn Francisco will fill the top “It's not a thing that bothers game of musical chairs, , successor of Alexandra Trower, slot after having joined as a board you if you don't smell great, but Obé and Alpyn Beauty have all head of global communications, member in 2020. She has been a when you're going back out into cinched new executives. who announced her retirement vice president at both Dermstore the world, it does matter,” she said. Firmenich has tapped Robin last month, and Maria Cristina and on a handful of Estée Lauder “You have to care about personal hygiene in a way you haven't in a Mason for the role of president, fine González Noguera, head of global Cos. brands. fragrance, North America. Mason public affairs, who is now chief UI Global Brands, the parent while. It's how you effect others.” The second prong of consumer most recently worked at , communications and public affairs company of Urban Hydration, has interest is how the coronavirus where she was senior vice president officer at Popular Inc. named a chief marketing officer. impacts smell, Lee Arnold said, of Shiseido Fragrances and the Firmenich is not the only beauty Maya H. Brown joins the company and searches point to a newfound global senior vice president of company with a new president. after a variety of roles at appreciation of scent. “When you the recently acquired Tory Burch Nance Hastings has joined Alpyn Black Opal, L’Oréal USA and don't have your sense of smell license. Prior to Shiseido, she was Beauty as president. Having begun Warner Music Group. anymore, you see how tied it is to the senior vice president of global her career at the Estée Lauder Cos. Virtual fitness platform Obé everything. Consumers won't take it marketing at . with a variety of roles in marketing, has appointed Joel Porter, NBC’s for granted,” she said. Tk Caption Firmenich’s fine fragrance team sales and education, she had a hand director of talent development and Both trends, Lee Arnold said, are has seen other shifts: last week, in launching Tom Ford and casting, as its director of on-air here to stay as the world readjusts it announced the hiring of eventually went on to lead strategic talent. Having overseen casting and to waning threats of infection. Here, the top 10 emerging beauty trends Bruno Jovanovic as a senior initiatives in North America. talent for E! and Bravo, he will do the for May, according to Trendalytics. . Past experience includes Sally Beauty Holdings has same with Obé’s talent. 20 years at IFF, where his projects named a new group vice president Hero Cosmetics is building out its TOP 10 EMERGING TRENDS ranged from Hugo Boss and Coach of e-commerce and digital. Ellery executive team with two new vice 1. toothpaste tabs: +358% to Calvin Klein and Frédéric Malle, Fisher will lead both Cosmoprof presidents. Christy Lee was hired 2. cleansing stick: +268% and others. He will report to Jerry and Sally Beauty’s digital product as vice president of sales for the 3. spf stick: +65% and e-commerce teams. He brand, after heading sales at Sun Vittoria, Firmenich’s global president 4. alcohol-free : +65% of fine fragrance. previously was the vice president of Bum. Amy Calhoun Robb will serve 5. clean perfume: +34% As previously reported by WWD, e-commerce and financial services as the vice president of marketing, 6. perfume: +32% The Estée Lauder Cos. is filling the for H-E-B and has held other roles at following her tenure leading 7. bar: +28% roles of two departing executives Walmart, Amazon and Target. marketing and innovation at Hello 8. black polish: +27% with Meridith Webster, who will B-glowing, the beauty Products. Prior to that, she was 9. probiotic: +10% serve as executive vice president, e-commerce platform, has chosen a the chief marketing officer of The 10. conditioner bar: +6%

global communications and public new chief executive officer. Princeton Review. —James Manso Thomas Mangieri by photograph Hastings TO ALL NURSES OUR HEARTS SAY NEWS FEED 4 MAY 14, 2021

consumer, so that wasn’t a challenge for us,” Crawford said of navigating Cindy Crawford Launches the impact of COVID-19. “We had other challenges, just in terms of getting our components because Meaningful Beauty Hair Care China shut down and then the U.S. shut down. We had challenges with "No one really talks about your hair aging," said the supermodel. getting our products. We had some BY RYMA CHIKHOUNE hiccups there, but not in terms of Cindy Crawford for how to reach our consumer, because CINDY CRAWFORD was in her Meaningful Beauty. we've been doing d-to-c for years.” 30s when she introduced the world Hair is emotional for women, to Meaningful Beauty — and its she said of a lesson learned while French melon-sourced antioxidant expanding into the new category. extract, superoxide dismutase — “We don't talk about it,” Crawford in infomercials alongside her said. “We might say we had a partner and go-to expert, bad haircut, but I think it's very Dr. Jean-Louis Sebagh. vulnerable for women to talk about The format may have been like, 'Oh my god, my hair is thinning counterintuitive to her image as a a little bit.' I know for me, one time supermodel, but from the beginning, a took my ponytail when Crawford has had a knack for how I was 18 years old and chopped it best to relate to her consumer base. off, and that is why I've never really “Doing the infomercial at that had short hair since then, because he time, for where I was in my career traumatized me.” and coming from a more high It comes down to self-confidence, fashion background, was definitely she added. not an obvious move,” Crawford said “I didn't vote myself in,” she said. over the phone, calling from Palm “Hair is like my security blanket. Spring, Calif. “But I knew why I was And I think for a lot of women, you making that decision.” can hide behind it if you're having Meaningful Beauty, launched in that kind of day. When I wear my 2004 with Guthy-Renker, was a hair back in a ponytail, in a weird business endeavor of her own after way that’s my most vulnerable self. years of appearing as the face of I'm showing my full face. I think major campaigns. (“As a model, women's emotional attachment to multiple times you get paid to hair and what it means, in a weird represent a brand, but you don't way it's more emotional than skin.” have skin in the game.”) Utilizing She credits Sebagh for helping her infomercials, though perhaps form a healthy outlook on aging. unexpected, was a marketing tactic “Antiaging, as you know, is a that allowed her to speak directly to hot-button word right now, but her fans as she revealed the “natural Out June 21 on MeaningfulBeauty. always brought to the customer it's impossible to do — as much as secret” behind her looks. com (and available on Amazon in around meaningful, purpose-driven, we would like to,” she continued. Crawford, now 55, has since grown the fall), the line features a $59 results-driven solutions.” “This whole thing is more about the California-based, direct-to-consumer shampoo, $59 conditioner and Meaningful Beauty is well age maintenance, like how do you skin care brand, while exploring various $45 scalp treatment — each made positioned in the market today. In maintain? How do you take care of distribution channels (, with a plant-based alternative to 2020, with in-store retailers closing yourself? We do that through exercise. Amazon, QVC) and attracting more keratin (KeraVeg18) and extramel, and brands focusing on d-to-c, the We do that through eating right. than 4 million shoppers. Today, she an antioxidant complex from the pandemic brought challenges to We do that through mental health, unveils the next stage of business; she's proprietary melon extract. The every beauty category except hair, taking care of ourselves in every way. expanding into hair care. collection, which aims to restore hair which grew 7 percent last year, That can be your skin and your hair, “We expect our skin is going to thickness, hydration, strength and and that momentum is expected to too. It's not about fighting aging, age…and your hair, you know it's shine, also includes a $36 leave-in continue, according to NPD Group. because then you're setting yourself going to go gray, but no one really spray (made to condition and heat- “We've always been direct-to- up for a battle with something that is talks about your hair aging,” she said. protect), as well as a $45 colored root happening anyway.” She noticed a change in her own touch-up product (available in six She paused, and asked, “So, how do hair after having kids. It became shades to conceal gray roots between we just embrace that? How do we be “brittle, dull, thin,” and she even salon visits). The merchandise can kind to ourselves? Why does skin care experienced some hair loss. also be purchased in sets for matter? Why does this “I look at my daughter's hair, and discounted prices. matter? Because it gives us it's so bouncy and shiny,” she said “There wasn’t a product confidence, and then we're with a laugh, bringing up her mini- out there or any solutions to unstoppable as women.” me, 19-year-old fellow model Kaia address this concept of bringing Gerber. “It's not frizzy. It doesn't antiaging treatments to hair… The line features a shampoo, conditioner, scalp treatment, break…I always tease her, like ‘You and this is where we really saw leave-in spray and a colored have my old hair. Give it back.’” the opportunity,” said Shauna product for root touch-ups. Crawford wondered if the Lahiri, chief marketing officer ingredients in her skin care products of Guthy-Renker, of the white — particularly the antioxidants from space the company hopes to fill the melon — would be beneficial for in hair care. “It was a real issue hair. It turns out that they are, she that Cindy was facing herself, so said, based on clinical results. this was a natural progression “It’s a healthy scalp that creates a for us in moving into a hair healthy environment for good hair,” care category and bringing the Crawford said. fundamentals that we have NEWS FEED 5 MAY 14, 2021

Ami Colé campaign imagery. She hired product development specialists who had worked with and Nars to help create shades, using information from the surveys. “We knew that our customer really wanted the my-skin-but-better look. We knew a skin tint that was not too greasy, not too oily or clogging your pores, or sheer frankly — we knew that wouldn't work for this customer because hyperpigmentation is an issue — and oily skin is an issue as well,” N'Diaye said. Ami Cole’s makeup lineup includes skin care ingredients like baobab seed extract, hibiscus extract and pumpkin seed extract. The Skin-Enhancing Tint comes in six shades meant to work with different undertones in melanin-rich skin, and the Lip Treatment Oil comes in a sheer, rosy taupe. The brand’s Light-Catching has a translucent base meant to work across skin tones, especially deeper ones. Ami Colé Creates No-Makeup “I envision [the customer] as a woman who enjoys being herself, with a true in going to the mirror Makeup for Melanin-Rich Skin and feeling confident in what she looks like,” N'Diaye said. “For me "We knew that our customer really wanted the my-skin-but-better look." specifically, being a darker skin tone, BY ALLISON COLLINS I know how important it was for me to feel confident even to function in DIARRHA N’DIAYE, a Glossier society. For me to be able to walk out veteran, is launching a multitasking the door and feel like, 'OK, I look my beauty brand called Ami Colé that best self, I feel my best self.' That’s centers around people with melanin- was crucial to how my day went. That rich skin. is really important for this customer.” Ami Colé will launch in June with N'Diaye has raised more than three products: Skin-Enhancing Tint, $1 million in pre-seed funding for Ami $32, Lip Treatment Oil, $20, and Colé from high-profile individuals, Light-Catching Highlighter, $22. including Katherine Power, Lindsay The lineup aims to give customers Peoples Wagner, Hannah Bronfman even, glowing skin with products and former Glossier president Henry that are vegan, cruelty-free, Davis, as well as Glossier investor The brand's lineup. fragrance-free, alcohol-free, paraben- Imaginary Ventures, Greycroft and free and gluten-free. Products are very much in the peripheral view Debut Capital, an early-stage firm housed in recyclable, reusable or and not really celebrated in their focused on investing in Black, Latine compostable packaging. true glory,” N’Diaye said. “Are you and Indigenous founders. The line was built for and around going to everyday people to talk to The fundraise took a year, N'Diaye Black women with melanin-rich skin, Diarrha N'Diaye, Ami Colé Black women who are dancing and said, and many prospective investors but is also meant to work on a wide brunching on the weekends, or are didn’t understand the need for a variety of lighter and deeper skin that was beauty — people coming in you going to the Golden Globes?” variety of beauty brands focused on tones. It will be sold on the Ami Colé with their Moesha and Brandy braids For Ami Colé, N'Diaye wanted to women with deeper skin tones. website starting May 17, and with and getting them done. But I realized, meet the needs of everyday people, “We had Uoma beauty and Mented Thirteen Lune starting June 1. once you leave that bubble, the world who — like her —wants to use Cosmetics coming up at the same N’Diaye, who is Senegalese thinks of beauty differently. I’ve makeup but still wants to look like time, and every new brand actually American, named the brand after her always been chasing that high, trying themselves, she said. “I wanted that became another reason not to invest mother, who immigrated to the U.S. to get that safe space of beauty and look, that no-makeup makeup look.” in our brand. It was very odd,” from Senegal and has run Aminata feeling comfortable and also seeing At that point several years N’Diaye said. “I’ve had people tell African Hair Braiding in Harlem myself represented, and that was not ago, N'Diaye said her shade me — I kid you not — why not go to since the ‘80s. N’Diaye said growing a reality.” wasn't available in existing tinted Emily Weiss, and just create a Black up and spending time in her mom’s When N'Diaye worked at lines. When she asked version of Glossier under Emily salon shaped her sense of beauty. during her college years at Syracuse, women around her neighborhood Weiss. Or call Sheena from Kosas, “A lot of beauty secrets and she found the shade ranges and what they were doing to achieve and create a Black extension.” exchange were happening there, but storytelling lacking, and the sense the no-makeup makeup look, they But for N'Diaye, building a brand even more interestingly, most of the of beauty was different from what told her they'd been “hacking” it by that centered around and celebrated employees there were straight from she grew up around at major adding oil to foundations, she said. melanin-rich skin was crucial. Senegal. This was their first foray corporations like L'Oréal, where she After talking to her online “It was tough being a darker skin as working women in America. My worked doing social media strategy. community via Instagram and asking tone when there was no Duckie mom creates this safe haven for them. Even a more modern start-up, like 400 women to fill out an in-depth Thot,” she said. “For me, Ami Colé You have women who didn’t speak Glossier, left N’Diaye with the sense survey on shades, shopping, pricing is about sparking joy in those English, but something happened, something was missing, she said. and more, N'Diaye started working communities and putting those there was a synergy that was so “It was very clear that Black on creating a skin tint specifically people in focus, and not in the beautiful,” she said. “I just thought, experiences and Black beauty were with deeper skin tones in mind. peripheral, of beauty.” NEWS FEED 6 MAY 14, 2021

reached 88 percent non-L’Oréal yourself,” said Bryan Edwards, customers. Moreover, 82 percent of cofounder. Edwards added that they customers who interacted with the are eyeing adjacent categories for email — which had a 39 percent expansion, all of which will follow the click-through rate — expressed same try-before-you-buy model. intent to buy. Other categories with tactile Brands have more to benefit than products, like makeup, are shifting just sales gains. “You’re reaching a their sampling strategies. MOB specific audience, you’re collecting Beauty, a makeup brand that launched data on that audience, and the cost direct-to-consumer earlier this year, per acquisition is around $3 per is introducing samples on its website. customer. You’re getting that sample True to its ecologically conscious into consumers’ homes, so even if ethos — its full-size products are they aren’t going in-store, there’s all recyclable and refillable — the that experiential component at samples, which come in the brand’s home,” said Allie Sorensen, senior full range of 65 shades, are recyclable. vice president of digital sales and Clean makeup brand Kosas also Snif's Collection 2 of fragrances. marketing at Abeo. introduced sample kits for $35 on Sampling isn’t the only way to get its website earlier this week, which products into consumers’ hands. its founder, Sheena Yaitanes, said Makeup, Fragrance Brands Snif, a d-to-c fragrance brand that was purely a response to consumer launched last year, gives a try- demand. “Consistently, the number- before-you-buy option on all of its one feedback we get is, ‘I need help Drive Sampling Evolution fragrances, which make up 80 percent finding my shade,’ or ‘I can't find my From digital sampling to modified business models, of the brand’s orders. As previously shade,’ or ‘how can I match my shades? brands in categories more focused on experience reported by WWD, industry sources Do you guys have samples?’” she said. estimate the brand’s sales to reach $3 “The messaging around it is really are finding new ways to reach consumers. million in its first year on the market. about taking the risk out of buying BY JAMES MANSO “The reason why other companies complexion products,” Yaitanes haven't really cracked the code of how continued. “You don’t have to guess CATEGORIES DEPENDENT but it's growing quite quickly,” to sell fragrance successfully online anymore, you know you’re choosing on try before you buy are rethinking said Larry Berman, senior vice is that it's something you need to the right shade, you can do it how to get products into consumers’ president of sales, North America smell in real life,” said Phil Riportella, comfortably from home, and you get hands. at Arcade Beauty. “Magazines were cofounder of Snif. “We need to remove a credit for every dollar you spend As traditional methods channels for the biggest distribution channel for every pain point of buying fragrance on sampling.” product samples — magazines, and sampling. Because the demand for online, of which there are many.” Even with the samples launching in-store opportunities — have fallen by magazines is not as great as it once The brand’s value proposition is d-to-c, the brand said its retail the wayside, brands are finding new was, we've seen a shift in sampling focused on convenience, given that partners stand to benefit from ways to make their products accessible from magazines to in-store and consumers can try scents with no increased trials and exposure. “Driving to consumers with minimal cost. e-commerce,” Berman said. collateral. “The biggest lever that we sampling on our own website will Abeo, a digital sampling firm and According to a case study on have is that we convince people that ultimately still drive buys in Sephora, part of Arcade Beauty, has seen Abeo’s website, when the company there is no commitment for them. our number-one partner. And we just a steady lift in digital sampling spearheaded a digital sampling It costs nothing to try and buy our want to meet [our consumer] where programs for beauty brands. “Digital campaign for L’Oréal Paris’ Infallible fragrances, and to have our products she is,” said Adeline Leong, chief and social sampling is a new channel, Fresh Wear 24HR , it shipped for you to try and experience marketing officer of Kosas.

Jungman has studied the look like with our products?” Dr. Dr. Elsa microbiome throughout her career. Jungman said. “My theory is that we use too many “The test is a really useful tool products that interfere with our skin to understand that your skin is an Jungman biome, and we need to prove that less organ, and you need to really be is more, or using much more gentle mindful about what you do with products is better for your skin health your skin. It’s to collect data on Introduces in the long term,” she said. the microbiome for research, for That theory informed the example, if reactive skin has a Microbiome development of her line, which specific profile,” Jungman continued. launched in 2018 and were some of “For the consumer, on their side, the first to be certified microbiome- they get reports with all of their Swab Test friendly in the U.S. market. The line microorganisms so they can see if The test, which entered consists of two and three minimal products are benefitting a pilot phase this week, serums, priced $40 to $70 on dr-ej. them long-term. We will be sending com. “When I started my company, them recommendations as well.” will be available for I thought the most urgent thing was Jungman is also interested in how consumers in 2022. The at-home to launch products that are very other factors impact the microbiome BY JAMES MANSO microbiome test. gentle. Investors didn’t get why I and more largely, overall skin didn’t put in more actives,” she said. health. “Your skin is also impacted AS CHATTER AROUND the this week. Consumers will swab their “It’s not about being natural or not, by your environment. Women have microbiome crescendos, Dr. Elsa skin over the course of one week, it’s about how it interacts with your hormonal changes, if you’re pregnant Jungman is piloting a one-on-one then send in the results and receive skin as an organ.” or going through menopause. Also, approach with her consumers. a full report on their skin, as well as The swab tests will fuel research. what you eat can also affect your The skin pharmacologist and product recommendations based on “It’s good to know that our products skin. We want to collate all that founder of her eponymous skin care the breakdown of microorganisms on are microbiome-friendly in the lab, information with the microbiome to line, launched the pilot phase of a their skin. The test will launch more but with women who suffer from make the best products and the best skin microbiome swab test earlier widely for consumers in 2022. reactive skin, what would their skin recommendations,” she said. BRIDGING THE DIGITAL DIVIDE

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increase in the quest for wellness Tk Caption overall [and] have seen that 24/7 wellness is what people want,” said Arnaud Montet, vice president of human and consumer insights at IFF. “You have to break the silos between the categories.” IFF, which generally uses the same olfactive ingredients from mass to class, has been doing a deep dive into neurosciences, driven by artificial intelligence and other digital tools to generate big data. “Then we have been able to crack really scientifically the neuroscientific measures correlated with emotion,” he said. Montet noted that these days people have gone back to the roots of perfume, which was used for spiritual and healing purposes up until the 18th century. Today, even the fine-fragrance category is having a self-care moment, as people now wear perfume less for social occasions and delve more into what fragrance does for them personally. It does plenty: Seventy-five percent of emotions generated each day are due to smell, according to scent market research cited by retail solutions provider Mood Media. Further, perfume brands have noticed that speaking the language of emotions and feelings linked to a fragrance is a good way to engage consumers online. “We have more and more briefs with a part dedicated to emotions,” said Nathalie Helloin Kamel, head of global fine fragrance at Japanese fragrance and flavors supplier Takasago International Corp. Most fragrance suppliers have been working on scents’ emotional benefits SMELLING GOOD IS not enough. for decades, although their focus has Fragrances are now expected to sharpened more recently, in part due Fragrance lift moods, calm or even boost to growing demand. mindfulness — and they’re swiftly “We see our clients are very being conceived with these and other responsive to our program on Gets Functional functional attributes. emotion, which we call EmotiOn,” , from mass to prestige, are increasingly being “The data we have says that 80 said Magnani. It’s holistic and percent of consumers are looking into multifaceted, focused on how infused with well-being attributes. a way to improve their wellness, and fragrance can support emotional BY JENNIFER WEIL ILLUSTRATION BY ANDRESSA MEISSNER often they don’t find it in the brands benefits through olfactive accords they use today,” said Matteo Magnani, and ingredients. chief consumer and innovation Through qualitative and officer of global perfumery at Swiss quantitative testing around the fragrance and flavors supplier world, the company has created an Firmenich. “This drives shifts in emotion and odor map indicating every category, from every brand.” feelings caused by different scents. Its Among innovative offers is Rochas EmotiCode outlines how a product Girl, billed as the first 100 percent feel- should smell to convey a certain good perfume. Ninety percent of the emotion, taking into account the fragrance’s vegan formula, created by category, country and consumer a IFF’s Anne Flipo, stems from natural brand sets out to target. origin, and it’s meant to have relaxing In some cases, the ingredients properties thanks to a neroli extract. are tested on brain activity, with (Crystalizing the benefit is Rochas Girl’s neuroscience techniques, such as tag line: “Spray Good — Feel Good.”) fMRIs, giving scientific proof of results. Fragrances started incorporating “We can make sure that the emotional benefits before COVID-19 fragrance design and concept of struck, but the trend has accelerated positioning will be associated with over the past year. the right emotion for the context,” “We have been measuring the said Magnani.  DEEP DIVE 9 MAY 14, 2021

For example, Firmenich findings show something completely new,” said The executives said that customers “Forty-six percent of consumers do a brand marketing a fabric softener Christophe de Villeplee, president of are looking especially for mindfulness- expect fragrances to have antibacterial with well-being attributes in China global consumer fragrances at IFF. related olfactive attributes. properties,” said Magnani. “That’s would need to use a floral composition, Fragrance suppliers keep digging “You’re going to see them very soon a different concept of functional with rose, jasmine and a touch of cedar deeper into scents’ emotional on the market,” he said. fragrance, but one that is very notes, while in India, the softener’s scent connection in various realms. During the pandemic, home relevant for the future, as well.” would have to be much warmer, with “Most recently, we’ve been trying to fragrance sales have been soaring. French fragrance and flavors musky notes for the same desired effect. explore more and more the attributes According to an NPD Group study, supplier has recently honed Firmenich’s database, which is of how the brain functions, and see if 51 percent of fragrance users queried in on the natural active ingredient constantly developing, now has more we could so something for overall well- said they had used scented candles at Cannabis Sativa. Derived from hemp, it than 50,000 consumer data points. being,” said Jeremy Compton, senior home last year, for example. has a vegetal scent and is purported to Takasago has for more than three vice president, head of science and All home fragrance products, help with stress, anxiety or depression. decades been using neuroscience technology — fragrances at . including for fabric care and “Combining its expertise in the to see how fragrance impacts VivaScentz, technology meant to cleaning, are in high demand. development of perfumes, cosmetic human brains. FMRIs are used by “Consumers expect all of them ingredients and aromatic molecules, the supplier, for instance, to see to contribute to their well-being,” Symrise now provides its customers which area of brains blood is sent “We have been said Firmenich’s Magnani, adding with a 360-degree solution with in response to smells linked to love, that can be for moments of serenity, Hemp Vitessence in order to respond pleasure and delight. measuring the balance and comfort. “In that sense, to the growing trend of cannabis in “We already have some accords on increase in the fragrances play a big role.” the cosmetics industry,” the company that,” said Helloin Kamel. Sales at Neom Organics London, a said in a statement. Sometimes it’s counterintuative which quest for wellness 17-year-old brand conceived to boost “Consumers associate hemp with olfactive ingredients have the ability to overall [and] have well-being, doubled last year versus health holistically and associate it with do what. Lavenders, which generally 2019 and are on track to more than relaxation, being modern and hip, as are consider calming, can also be super seen that 24/7 double in 2021. well as emotional well-being,” Timothy stimulating, depending on the type. wellness is what Nicola Elliott, Neom’s founder and Evans-Lora, applied research chemist Ditto for citrus, albeit in the inverse. creative director, was fascinated by at Symrise, said in the statement. Takasago has for years had an people want. You how its most sophisticated products, According to a study the olfactive accord in its portfolio with have to break the such as Hydrating Magnesium Body supplier carried out, 30 percent of “de-stress” attributes proven by Butter, to help stress, sleep and mood, respondents believe hemp to have a biomarkers such as cortisol levels. In silos between the have been flying off shelves. holistic dimension. the past, customers were only slightly categories.” “That is an ode to people’s knowledge Other independent beauty brands interested in that offer, but that’s of well-being, and that level of have also been integrating various changed completely these days. —arnaud montet, iff knowledge growing,” she said, adding forms of well-being into their product “Since one year, we see that in 80 Neom’s Wellbeing Pod, an essential offer. percent of the briefs we receive there oil diffuser that retails for 50 pounds, Véronique Gabai-Pinsky, who is something linked to the emotional help consumers attain a holistic sense is selling strongly, too. Whereas in in 2019 launched her eponymous side,” said Helloin Kamel. of well-being through fragrance, was the past people would buy into one lifestyle and fragrance range inspired Takasago has also been working on launched in June 2020 and has been category of essential oils, today it’s by the south of France where she non-waking hours. “Lack of sleep, or quickly snapped up since for beauty multicategory usage, depending on grew up, wanted to create a new low-quality sleep, is really an issue we and personal care products. how someone feels each day. olfactive structure so that users are facing at the global level,” she said. IFF’s four-year-old Science of “We are definitely seeing a huge experience scent as a sensation rather It’s a problem that’s been increasing Wellness platform combines conscious rise in that bucket of consumers than as a construction. dramatically during the pandemic. and unconscious measures using that are on their first step into well- “The high concentration of naturals Swiss fragrance and flavors proprietary AI and specific ingredients. being,” said Elliott. “So this isn’t gives you that connection with nature, supplier Givaudan, which has had a “We have been able to open now, necessarily the Goop girl that you and therefore with some elements neuroscience program running for thanks to neuroscience, what we would have associated well-being of well-being,” she said. “It is about more than three decades, four years call cognitive wellness — cognitive with three years ago.” escapism, a perfume for the self — as ago focused on fragrances called benefits,” said Montet, citing a Well-being takes many guises for opposed to a perfume for others. It is DreamScentz to help with sleep. move away from the more classical perfume suppliers. Another area about feeling well in your skin [and] IFF, the U.S.-based supplier, has “relaxed” or “happy” attributes. “We where Firmenich, among others, is surrounding you with a bubble of teamed with SleepScore Labs, which go toward some new dimension. seeing a lot of customer interest is light that makes you feel good. scientifically analyzes sleep. Somehow it helps us today go into the on the connection between fragrance “We’re going even further, in using “There’s an opportunity to create famous ‘mindfulness,’ ‘self-esteem.’” and hygiene. the power of nature in helping people feel better,” added the executive. Szent claims to reinvent the flavor experience, with its water bottles that have a ring around their necks infused with essential oils to experience passionfruit, mint, pineapple, tropical and tangerine. The concept from the U.S.-based company that plans to go global next year, is built on the fact that one’s sense of smell is responsible for as much as 80 percent of what is tasted, alongside being able to influence moods, trigger memories and affect performance. Eye of Love is a U.S.-based vegan brand that claims to pack its colognes and perfumes with pheromones “to help you project the status and confidence so many people find attractive. Our mission? To make you from left: Rochas Girl; smell your best, feel your best, be Symrise's Hemp Vitessence. your best.” ■ DEEP DIVE 10 MAY 14, 2021

CEO of The Packaging Company. APC’s monomaterialTk Caption packaging options. “It's not something that we take from the junkyard.” The best alternatives remain glass, aluminum and tin. Lumson, for one, is betting big on aluminum, having recently launched TAL, or Techno Airless Aluminum, which is recyclable, light and easy to customize, along with meeting the market’s increasing demand for safety, with the group’s Hermetic Snap Closure System. Eco-design is another must for beauty packaging solutions today. A metal spring might be replaced with a plastic one in a pump, or a valve made of silicon might be substituted with TPE, as silicon disrupts the recycling process, explained Sabine Bouillet, global business development director for personal care at Aptar. “It’s a very big technical challenge,” she said, adding: “Our goal is to have concrete actions that will make a big impact for the circular economy.” Lin said simultaneously people want packaging to be beautiful and draw attention. “Decoration is going to become manager at Baralan. more important — to decorate The Italian company just launched your packaging in a way [that’s Beauty Packaging the Biobased Packaging Series, sustainable], but still presentable,” a recyclable line for fragrance she said. “That will be a big topic.” and cosmetics produced with a Reusability is also key. Three years Suppliers Pivot to biopolymer combining natural fibers ago, the concept was considered and waste materials. futuristic, said Bouillet, while today Eastman recently introduced a new it’s becoming a priority. line of molecularly recycled polyesters. An increasing number of suppliers Meet New Demands Produced by Eastman's Advanced are focusing on refill technology, Their focus, like never before, is on sustainable solutions, as Circular Recycling technologies, these and some have had to pivot from well as more hygienic and e-commerce-compatible offers. sustainable resins include Cristal Renew, packaging for makeup to skin care, made using up to 100 percent certified as the latter category has soared. BY JENNIFER WEIL, SANDRA SALIBIAN AND RYMA CHIKHOUNE recycled content. “We took a pretty significant hit,” With the same processing ease said Ariel Kuzon, director of marketing BEAUTY PACKAGING suppliers “This year, we can see that brands of virgin polymers and level of at HCT Group, referring to color are swiftly pivoting to meet are really shifting their interest to performance in terms of clarity, luster, cosmetics having historically been the new client demands due to the getting more circularity and focusing color compatibility and durability of company’s bread and butter. “Skin care coronavirus pandemic, from requests on recyclability,” added Cathy Nicolay, Eastman’s heritage products, these is definitely shifting a little bit into for more sustainable and hygienic product manager at Albéa. materials deliver environmental more of a core business for us.” offers to more compliant solutions for As consumers are ever more benefits, including landfill diversion HCT has designed airless pumps e-commerce, as that channel booms. concerned with what’s good for and reduced greenhouse gas for skin care formulas with packaging Last year and the start of 2021 have themselves and the planet, there’s emissions, according to the company. including an inner lining made from been highly challenging, with country a rise in packaging briefs with an “We are offering these solutions a commercially compostable material, lockdowns leading to supply chain emphasis on the likes of carbon at scale, for manufacturing globally. which can be refilled. stoppages plus raw material shortages — footprint and shorter lead times. This means that brands don’t have to Meanwhile, APC has been creating including for plastics — and skyrocketing As such, suppliers have been wait to address their sustainability refillable airless bottles and jars prices, among the various woes. focused on using more bio-based needs,” said Tara Cary, market using from 75 percent to 100 percent Suppliers’ business has not materials, such as Ecowood at HCP development manager, specialty consumer-recycled material. normalized, but it is functioning better and bioresins at Aptar. plastics — cosmetics and personal Reusable packaging leads to fewer today, driven by numerous phenomena. Cosmopak has for about the last care packaging at the company. units of products sold, so can dent “The secular trends that happened five years been investing in post- Mono-materials are also a focus at suppliers’ top line. pre-COVID-19 were only accelerated consumer recycled plastics made with APC Packaging. The group produces a “You can consider it as a threat, by the pandemic,” said Dan Wolfe, bioplastics, produced from renewable jar wholly of PCR. but it can also be considered as an senior vice president of business biomass sources, such as sugarcane. “We are working on a mono- opportunity,” Bouillet said. “Because development at Cosmopak. “We're starting to see some of the material packaging pump,” said the the consumers are going to put more Sustainability is the biggest focus now. payoff of that investment,” Wolfe said. group’s founder and chief executive value on the packaging. It’s not a “Every brief is asking for a All packaging suppliers are on a officer Lisa Lin. piece of plastic that they’re going to sustainable solution,” said Eric Firmin, continual quest for new sustainable — A bane for all packaging suppliers throw away every week.” president of HCP Packaging France. especially mono-material — solutions. is that it’s impossible to use 100 As the pandemic heightens “The pandemic has really pushed “[Developing] new items in a single percent recycled plastic, as the consumers’ awareness of hygiene and CSR into the center of discussions,” material helps to reduce the use of molecules are hard to mold. safety, packaging to keep products agreed Aude Charbonneaux, CSR different substances, minimizing “About 15 percent of the plastic in sterile is gaining traction, including manager at Albéa. “There is no waste and increasing the possibilities our containers is recyclable, but it's pump applicators, airless options and meeting with customers that is not of reuse,” said Maurizio Ficcadenti, recyclable from waste that we have sprays that are anti-bacterial or self- around sustainability.” global research and development in our factory,” said Michael Salemi, cleaning, noted Lumson’s marketing  DEEP DIVE 11 MAY 14, 2021

director Romualdo Priore. “Hygienic solutions are now a key priority for our clients,” said Priscille Caucé, CEO of Cosmogen. The company’s bestselling Squeeze’n line with a patented On-Off closure system protects product formula and after that’s been dispensed the packaging can second as a massager, for instance. Cosmogen has recently released a model to be used with a refill. “We saw an acceleration of interest in accessories like spatulas,” Caucé added. Those could be in ceramic, semiprecious from left: stones or woods, such as bamboo. Sustainable There has been a notable rise in areas and allows the group to be challenges for the mid- to long- packaging from Aptar, Cosmogen, requests for antibacterial packaging flexible and to respond promptly to term is to reduce the number Albéa and Lumson. solutions, as well. Some ready-to-go different product orders, making the of components and variety of offers included blending sponges, company very competitive on the materials used in packaging. sustainability front. “Sustainability while Cosmogen created a next market,” Ficcadenti said. “The other goal is to ultimately is not a journey that concerns only generation of antibacterial items An Albéa factory in France reduce the cost of the full [e-commerce] product launches, but it’s an ongoing during the pandemic. diversified after making packaging for supply chain, because today [it’s] very challenge encompassing the whole “Now, we can inject an — a slow category during the complex,” Garofalo said. supply chain,” Priore said. antibacterial agent into a plastic pandemic — to manufacturing other Before the health crisis, the “Clearly there is still a lot of work tube,” said Caucé, adding that it can types of products for local customers e-commerce channel was largely to be done to get to a truly circular kill 99 percent of bacteria. in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. viewed separate from brick-and-mortar, economy, a necessary component of a Cosmogen has conceived makeup “With the pandemic, we saw that and big customers asked for different sustainable future,” said Cary, adding brushes with antibacterial fibers, too. [increasingly] customers want a shorter sorts of packaging options for the each. that Eastman actively seeks out and As there’s a cross-pollination of supply chain, to be more responsible in “We see more and more customers forms collaborations with companies product categories (think makeup their production,” said Nicolay. interested in omnichannel solutions,” across the value chain, customers with skin care benefits), new needs “Our new strategy is to diversify he said. “Our ultimate goal is to and other organizations “to create arise for brands. “We are working our plants to be able to answer more develop one solution that fits with all standards and build frameworks aimed on cosmetics clusters, such as the locally to big and small customers distribution channels.” at preserving our natural resources and ‘make-care,' developing solutions that with closer production,” she said. This can give consumers a accelerating the circular economy.” can enhance makeup products but Some Albéa plants now produce consistent experience, while trial Aptar, for one, has already entered also preserve skin care formulations,” multiple types of packaging. The sizes and minis attract attention. into some partnerships and will partner Priore said. group is also replicated its Fast- “Because of hygiene matters and increasingly with various stakeholders. “Is there a sweet spot between Track Beauty program, involving of shops being closed, we needed to “It’s important that we actors in the hygiene and sustainability?” mused lower minimum orders and speedier reinvent sampling,” said Albéa’s Nicolay, supply chain work together in order to HCT’s Kuzon. “That's what we're product turnaround times, in the adding sustainability is being taken into meet [a] common goal,” Garofalo said. trying to work on to solve.” U.S., while also expanding the offer. account, too, with more durable and “We cannot build this future One sticking point can be that eco- Numerous pain points exist for reusable options at top of mind. alone,” Bouillet said. “We need to friendly packaging often comes with beauty product packaging that’s not Packaging suppliers agree no one work altogether inside the ecosystem a higher price tag. e-commerce compliant. In a survey should go it alone, especially on the of beauty.” ■ “It does cost more,” said Salemi, conducted by Aptar, 50 percent of noting an increase of 30 to 40 percent respondents reported leakage a over traditional solutions. major issue, followed by damaged These days, suppliers are finding product packaging. it is important to be able to produce “We have seen pumps in general, closer to their clients, so as to but especially pumps, have have manufacturing facilities that been considered the product can easily pivot — sometime to technology with the biggest needs of new categories — and increase an e-commerce packaging compliant capacity when demand ramps up. solution,” said Luigi Garofalo, director Sustainability-minded reasons of business development personal include reduced shipping distances. care at Aptar Beauty and Home, “Today, HCP has a global footprint in adding dispensing closures in some Europe, but also in the U.S.,” Firmin said. cases aren’t robust enough. In 2019, the group doubled the size Packaging executives are focused Baralan bio-based packaging. of its Mexico plant’s capacity, with a on the ISTA 6-Amazon.com protocol new building expansion of 113,020 with three levels of certification. square feet. The same year, HCP Aptar, for instance, has adapted the debuted a 398,265-square-foot facility Over-Boxing standard to assess its in Huai’an, China, and enlgarged its dispensing solutions for online sales. plant in Germany, where HCP invested “These are very rigorous and in new injection molding and assembly challenging tests,” said Garofalo, machines, plus decoration equipment. explaining that includes a drop Baralan’s geographic reach, with test with nine orientations and a headquarters in Italy, and branches transit simulation. “If we pass all the in New York, Los Angeles, Fort tests, then we claim our product as Lauderdale and Shanghai, played an e-commerce capable.” important role in managing speeded Aptar had started using the protocol up time-to-market demands. prior to the pandemic, but accelerated “Baralan’s stock inventory the process due to strong demand. management on packaging and Passing the tests is now mandatory Cristal Renew accessories is located in multiple for all new developments. Among the from Eastman. BIG IDEAS. BOLD THINKING. AUDACIOUS INNOVATION.

MAY 19–20 / VIRTUAL

SPEAKERS INCLUDE

Sir John Barnett Abena Boamah Sharon Chuter Jo Horgan Tara James Taylor Vicky Tsai Laney Crowell Global Artist & - Acheampong CEO & Founder Co-CEO & Founder SVP, Beauty & CEO & Founder CEO & Founder Activist CEO & Founder UOMA BEAUTY MECCA BRANDS Personal Care Vertical TATCHA GROVE HANAHANA NIELSENIQ COLLABORATIVE BEAUTY

Nicola Kilner Stuart Landesberg Gemma Lionello Liah Yoo Carol Hargrave Kelly Vanasse Anastasia Soare CEO & Co-founder CEO & Co-founder EVP & General CEO & Founder Senior Director, CCO & SVP, CEO & Founder DECIEM GROVE Merchandise Manager, KRAVEBEAUTY Commerce Product Grooming & Health ANASTASIA COLLABORATIVE Accessories & Beauty Marketing, Product Communications BEVERLY HILLS NORDSTROM INC. Marketing P&G BEAUTY PAYPAL

Barbara Paldus Charlotte Katherine Power Joel Schlessinger, Alexis Schrimpf Mazdack Rassi Stéphane CEO & Founder Palermino CEO & Founder M.D. VP, Global Skin CBO & Co-founder Rinderknech CODEX BEAUTY CEO & Co-founder VERSED + MERIT FAAD, President & Personal Care MILK MAKEUP President & CEO DIEUX LOVELYSKIN.COM Design, and Founder, L’ORÉAL USA & Chief Editor, SeeME Beauty Cosmetic Surgery P&G BEAUTY PRACTICAL DERMATOLOGY MAGAZINE

BUY TICKETS Marie La France John Melo Alex Lorestani VP, Strategy CEO CEO & Co-founder DASH HUDSON AMYRIS GELTOR

ATTENDEE INQUIRIES SUE JIN LEE [email protected] | SPONSORSHIP INQUIRIES AMANDA SMITH [email protected]

EVENT SPONSORS:

For more information visit fairchildlive.com MASTER CLASS 13 MAY 14, 2021

your hair,” “take control of your hair We have dozens of doctors available otherwise it’s going to fall out.” As a in house that are with us full time, brand, we have always taken a much who schedule consultations with more empowering approach. We our customers to set them up for never talk about fear, we never talk success. That allows us to support about loss, we’re always empowering customers and address concerns they consumers to approach this problem have. If a product doesn’t work right, in a very different way and most which sometimes happens, we dive importantly not making them feel in a little deeper, do a hair mineral bad about themselves. analysis. You’re sending a hair sample to our lab, we analyze your hair, we How have you gone about analyze your health and doctors are building your consumer base? giving tips based on these findings. G.T.: In order to really build a legacy When we tailor our approach based brand, which is something we’re on these conversations, retention doing, you need credibility. You can’t goes through the roof. That’s one of just put a bunch of communities the reasons our subscription base is together and then hope for the best close to 90 percent of customers that and use marketing to scale. We are buying products. started with our doctor community. When we didn’t have any funding How do you think consumer and it was all our own money still, we shopping habits have changed put in everything to invest in product over the past year? research, working with universities, G.T.: You can’t just be marketing connecting with doctors. We brought the company, you need some fuel, a lot of people on board in order you need some innovation, you need to prove that this newly targeted proof, you need science, especially approach targeting the underlying when you solve a complex problem. causes is really working. Consumers are becoming way more savvy and critical of how they’re What did growth during the spending money. pandemic look like for you? Especially in the wellness category, G.T.: Understanding the whole body you can’t just be a wellness product approach really was the foundation without science. We’ve invested to being able to continue to grow millions of dollars in clinical trials during such a turbulent time. There to prove to the world that these was so much more awareness around nutraceuticals are able to make a wellness in general and people’s difference. If you don’t have scientific Giorgos Tsetis, CEO of Nutrafol. health. Wellness and the approach to backing, I don’t think companies wellness hasn’t even reached critical will be able to scale considering how mass yet in my opinion. consumer mind-sets are changing. From a growth perspective, the Giorgos Tsetis, revenue in February 2021 was close What does the next phase to up 100 percent compared to 2020. look like for Nutrafol? The company in general from 2019 to G.T.: There are 40 million women CEO of Nutrafol 2020 grew about 60 percent. We saw in the U.S. that unfortunately suffer new customers on Nutrafol.com in from hair fall to hair loss at some The hair supplement brand is growing quickly. 2020 up 150 percent. point. There are about 50 million BY ALLISON COLLINS We had some core products men, just in the U.S. When you that truly added value to people’s look at that addressable market, GIORGOS TSETIS started million and $175 million in sales for lives during a pandemic where it’s massive. Nutrafol after his own journey with 2021, according to industry sources. there was so much loss of control. We will continue to expand hair loss prevention. The company has patented its hair Hair is something that is still very our hair wellness portfolio. We’ll Tsetis was on Propecia, and supplement blend, and has secured an important to people because it’s part continue to innovate, and we’ll stay “suffered tremendously from the side investment from L Catterton. of their identity. very focused on hair. We’re going effects,” he said. Here, Tsetis talks Nutrafol’s It’s almost like, how do you treat to further invest in new scientific “As a young man, yes, I got to keep growth, strategy and upcoming your hair like your skin? You’ve been developments in next generation my hair, but I suffered from sexual products. This interview has been very proactive, taken a very antiaging topical solutions as well [launching side effects of these drugs,” Tsetis said. edited and condensed. approach when it comes to skin, but this year], we’ll continue to launch He partnered with cofounders let’s take care of our skin because different products within the space Roland Peralta and Sophia Kogan, What resonates with your customers especially nowadays with the stresses addressing different life stages and began Nutrafol, an alternative about Nutrafol, versus Minoxidil or and the demands and the stimuluses for consumers. hair wellness company that talks something like Propecia? across the board — the human body Our client acquisition cost about hair growth instead of hair Giorgos Tsetis: People are really is not made for that, and hair’s not actually started to drop. We have loss, and uses “medical grade starting to resonate with an inner that important for survival. a very strong growth team within botanicals” in formulations, he said. wellness approach to target beauty, the company that is focusing on “I always believed there should in this case hair. Wellness is a very How do you think about diversification in marketing channels, be a healthier solution possible. We broad word, but we’re tying it to hair subscriptions as part of the really lowering the acquisition cost, merged Eastern thinking by targeting wellness and educating consumers overall business proposition? because the space has become very the root causes of a problem with around all these important G.T.: The way we incentivize crowded. By just becoming better new Western technology. The goal underlying causes that need to be subscriptions on our e-commerce with targeting and diversification was always to create something that addressed. channel is really through services. your marketing mix you can become was very healthy and effective at the To address Minoxidil and Propecia, This is an emotional journey for way more efficient at scale. same time,” Tsetis said. it’s branding in general. These hair a lot of people…there’s always The company, which was founded in loss drugs are always associated further opportunity for us to guide DIRECT CONNECT: @giorgostsetis

2015, is expected to do between $150 with fear and anxiety. It’s “don’t lose people throughout their journey. Ace Jessica Photograph by EYE CANDY 14 MAY 14, 2021

Career High Some little-known facts about the longtime Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. exec. BY JENNY B. FINE

This week, John Demsey celebrated his 30th anniversary at the Estée Lauder Cos., where he has worked on 25 brands. Well-known for both his professional achievements — building MAC from a niche makeup artist brand into a global cosmetics powerhouse, raising more than $500 million as chairman of the MAC VIVA GLAM Fund and helping to bring Tom Ford’s beauty vision to life — and his OOO pursuits (avid photography collector and consummate party host), we decided to dig a little deeper. Here, the executive shares 30 things you might not know.

1. I first met Estée Lauder in 1984 15. First paying job: Sorting when I was working on the floor of accounts payable in my father’s office. Bloomingdale’s 59th Street and she would come in to meet customers 16. In Paris I lived in the maid’s on Sundays. room where Andy Warhol ran the factory. 2. Favorite campaign I worked on more 17. Fave childhood shows: "Captain than 30 years at Kangaroo" and "The Brady Bunch." ELC: Tom Ford F--king Fabulous. 18. I wear three scents: Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur, Tom Ford 3. I've attended Neroli Portofino and Jo Malone more than 1,200 London Basil and Neroli. fashion shows. 19. Favorite sweet: Chocolate 4. Go-to designers: Tom Ford, covered graham crackers from EAT. Anderson Sheppard, Thom Browne, Ermenegildo Zegna, Bottega 20. Color I can’t stand: Veneta, . Pepto pink.

5. When I was a national sales 21. Favorite flower: manager for the Estée Lauder Brand, orchid. we had a sales meeting in Florida. 22. Pre-COVID-19, The airline lost my luggage and I I hosted more than a had to wear Leonard Lauder’s dozen events per year at yellow pants. my town home, catered 6. I have a pair of shoes named by Cornelia Guest. Now it’s after me: “The Demsey” from six people, socially distanced Gaziano & Girling. and food from Caviar or Seamless. 7. My grandmother’s first cousin, Uncle Bernie Mitchell from , 23. Style icon: Grace Jones. created Jovan Musk in the 1970s. 24. I obsessively collect watches. 8. Pre-pandemic lunch: I have 50 and have instituted a Two PB&Js made with strawberry one-in, one-out policy. jelly and creamy peanut butter on 25. I have six dogs, three cats whole wheat. and two birds in residence. 9. During pandemic lunch: 26. Repeat purchase on Amazon: Granola and yogurt from Sant Nature’s Miracle. Ambroeus via Caviar delivery. 27. Ride or die ELC products, 10. One thing I won’t ever eat: Crème de la Mer, Moisture any kind of fish. Surge, Estée Lauder ANR. 11. More than 900 photos hang in 28. Favorite comic strips: my town house, including works by "Charlie Brown," "Archie," Miles Aldridge, David Bailey, Steven "Richie Rich," "Fantastic Klein and Terry O’Neill. Four." 12. The first photograph I ever 29. I will never wear purchased was at a flea market in Crocs or Birkenstocks. Paris. It was a head shot of Brigitte Bardot as a brunette. 30. I live by the words of my mentor, Leonard Lauder, who said, 13. First movie: "Wizard of Oz." “If you can’t see the future

14. First Leonard you will never get there.” Lauder concert: Seals and Croft followed by David Bowie.

John Demsey and Rihanna at the 2014

CFDA Fashion Awards. Stock Adobe by photographs and orchid Crocs