BiodiversitY FORFOOR ALL TASTESTASTES

BiodiversitY FORFOOR ALL TASTESTASTES A trtravellingavelllingling menu tthroughhrough LLiguria’siguriguria’s prprotectedoteectcted areasareas Region of Department of the Environment Section on Projects and programmes for the Protection and Development of the Environment summary

Project realised with funding from the Ministry for the Environment and the Protection of the Land and Sea as part of the “National Strategy for Biodiversity: implementation of sustainable tourism”

www.parks.it/regione.liguria/ Eindex.php

Introduction 07

Regional Protected Area and Marine Protected Area Hanbury Botanical Gardens 10 Regional Nature Park 14 Regional Nature Reserve Island 18 Regional Nature Reserve Rio Torsero 22 Regional Nature Park Bric Tana 24 Regional Nature Park Piana Crixia 26

Credits Regional Nature Reserve Adelasia 28 The photographs were provided by the Parks, Natural Reserves, Protected Marine Areas, and the Region of Liguria. Furthermore: Marine Protected Area Island of 30 Archivio GBH - Daniele Guglielmi pp. 10, 11, 12-13 Regional Nature Park Beigua 32 Piero Pelassa p. 14 Cristiano Queirolo p. 34 (in alto) Protected Natural Area Monica Saettone p. 35 (ricetta) of Local Interest Mura Park 38 Gabriella Motta pp. 36-37 Fabrizio Fazzari pp. 44-45 Regional Nature Park Antola 40 Mariapaola Chiarlone pp. 26,27 Riccardo Massino p. 27 (ricetta) Regional Nature Park 46 Marine Protected Area Portofino 52 Editorial coordinator Regional Nature Park Aveto 54 Alessandro Avanzino Editor National Park 60 Fabrizio Fazzari, Titti Motta Marine Protected Area Cinque Terre 64 Graphics and layout Barbara Ottonello Regional Nature Park and Marine Protected Area 66 © 2015 Sagep Editori Regional Nature Park Montemarcello-- 70 www.sagep.it ISBN 978-88-6373-366-2 Alta Via dei Monti Liguri 74 introduction

Biodiversity and taste. So, my job is to explain this pairing, this logical jump from a scientific term that in Europe is synonymous to protecting habitats and species, to that noun so dear to our pleasure. I need to do it in two stages. First of all, imagine that you are in a large room in Rome where all the representatives of the Regions and the Minister - who generally talk about biodiversity as if it were only a fact of legislation, procedures, and Latin names - vote in a document that provides support to Regions in relation to information and tourist activities, to be presented at Expo 2015. Was it all just a big mistake? No, anything but. These are experts who want to send out a clear message shared at national and EU level; i.e., that the protection of biodiversity produces essential goods and services. Sure, they are services and goods (“eco-system services” in Euro lingo) that we often do not pay for with money: clean water, pure air, wood, fuel, natural recycling of waste, environments for recreation, and measures to mitigate erosion. But we pay dearly when we do not have them: just think of the costs involved in building and maintaining a water purifier… So then, does biodiversity help tourism? Of course it does! If Liguria is one of the most visited Italian regions, it is because it still manages to maintain a land that is intact, beautiful, and healthy in the 2000 Nature Areas interspersed around the Region and, in particular, in the Parks. Also, because it can boast a “natural capital” of extremely high value that counts three bio-geographical regions (alpine, continental, and Mediterranean) in one small space, a unique case in . So if a picture is worth a thousand words, in Liguria, where the people are not that chatty, we like the idea that a flavour, or an aroma, is worth so much more. Aromas and flavours, more than sight, hearing, and touch, immediately reawaken feelings of pleasure and fulfilment that do not need to be rationalised. They communicate with our most emotional side linked to deep memories. Therefore, the flavour of biodiversity is the way we have chosen to explain, without too many words, how our delicious food is so indissolubly linked to the protection and development of our rich, precious, and widespread regional biodiversity. When you discover the plain cuisine typical of western Liguria (page 15) or the ciuppin fish soup (page 27) , taste the honey from the Ligurian Parks (page 33) or the pigato grape (page 17) or try the San Stè cheese (page 55) or the anchovies (page 65) , you cannot help but immediately think of the wonder of the alpine pastures, the beech woods in autumn, the shady chestnut groves, the garrigue in bloom, the aromas of the Mediterranean scrub, the mysterious bats, the thousands of species of birds, the corals, and the gorgeous underwater landscapes of our Marine Protected Areas... and of how much the work of the men and women who look after them all is worth.

The Assessor for Parks of the Liguria Region Pippo Rossetti liguria’s protected area

The Regional system of Protected areas is integrated by Rete Natura 2000 (a network comprising areas that are particularly safeguarded for the habitats and birds and fauna) and the widespread network of paths comprising the REL (Ligurian Hiking Network).

[11 ] Regional Nature Park Antola

[6] Regional Nature Park Piana Crixia [20 ] Botanical Garden Pratorondanino [1 4] Regional Nature Park [9] Regional Nature Aveto Park Beigua [10 ] Protected Natural Area of Local Interest Mura Park [5] Regional Nature Park GENOVA [19 ] Alta Via dei Bric Tana [7] Regional Nature Reserve Monti Liguri Adelasia [12 ] Regional Nature Park Portofino [18 ] Regional Nature Park [13 ] Marine Protected Area Montemarcello-Magra-Vara [8] Marine Protected Area Portofino Island of Bergeggi

[15 ] National Park [4] Regional Nature Reserve Cinque Terre Rio Torsero [16 ] Marine Protected Area Cinque Terre [ ] [2] Regional Nature Park 3 Regional Nature Reserve Gallinara Island [17 ] Regional Nature Park Ligurian Alps and Marine Protected Area Porto Venere [19 ] Alta Via dei Monti Liguri

0 10 20 30 40 km [1] Regional Protected Area and Marine Protected Area Hanbury Botanical Gardens

0 10 20 30 40 km P I t H

THE SHADDOCK which is typically c Hanbury Jam S

regional and marine protected u G Many citrus trees produce eaten at d A o r fruit with lots of seeds and breakfast or L Ingredients area hanbury botanical gardens F P lack commercial qualities, afternoon tea by 1 kg of caffra apple or kei but their conservation is the English. apple pulp LOCATION important for maintaining In Riviera, the bitter 2 slightly unripe apples or quinces Corso Montecarlo, 43 biodiversity from a orange trees are a sign of La Mortola 750 g of sugar 18039 (IM) genetic, historical, and the cultural exchanges ½ shaddock (or alternatively Tel. +39 0184 22661 agronomic point of view, between the 2 untreated lemons), www.giardinihanbury.com/en/contatti also for possible future Mediterranean, the just the rind SURFACE AREA usages. Orient, and English style water, as needed 18 hectares The shaddock is extremely which is reflected in the MUNICIPALITY large; it produces fruit that love for gardens and Ventimiglia is over 2kg in weight and nature, also through the 25cm in diameter, with a estate of the Hanbury very thick aromatic peel. Botanical Gardens, a The fruit of the bitter regional protected area { orange tree are the basic managed by } ingredient of marmalade University. Preparation Peel and core the caffra apples and unripe apples or quinces. Place the caffra apple HOW TO GET THERE In 1867, Sir Thomas Today the Hanbury pulp, the sugar, and the By car Hanbury purchased a large collection includes 270 A10 motorway Genova – white part of the Ventimiglia: exit at Ventimiglia. holding at Capo Mortola , at citrus plants, including shaddock or lemon rind SS 1 Aurelia towards France Ponte the French border, and ancient ornamental or in a saucepan with very San Luigi (approximately 7 km) created a botanical garden production varieties , with little water and bring Escota A8 motorway Aix en there which became world 60 different types of sweet to the boil. Provence – Menton: exit at Menton. famous. Along with the orange, bitter orange, After 20 minutes add the RN 7 towards Italy Ponte San Luigi. pre-existing citrus and lemon, cedro, lime, apples or quinces cut into SS 1 Aurelia (3 km). olive trees , he introduced chinotto, grapefruit, and small pieces. By train new varieties of fruit and bergamot, many of which Continue cooking until Genova-Ventimiglia line you reach the desired (Ventimiglia station) ornamental trees from are important for eating or RT bus terminus (Riviera Trasporti gardens all over the world for cosmetic , density. - Tel. + 39 0184 592706) for Ponte and French, Genoese, and pharmaceutical , and Fill sterilised jars with the San Luigi in Via Cavour, 150 metres Sicilian nurseries. ornamental purposes . mixture, leaving 0.5 cm from Ventimiglia railway station. of empty space. In Liguria, citrus trees were The cultivations have a low Close the jars well and cultivated since the 16th environmental impact, with leave to cool. century in , Genoa, biological methods subject During the cooking San Remo, and Menton. to rigorous monitoring. BEYOND THE GARDEN The Hanbury Botanical process, the yellow The sea lying under Capo Gardens also support social colour of the caffra Mortola comprises a activities and the spread apples turns red. protected marine area of the principles of The rind of the shaddock which is extremely rich in respecting flora and (similar to a pomelo) biodiversity, with meadows nature overall , in or the lemons is needed of posidonia , underwater collaboration with the to make the jam bitter. springs of fresh water, hinterland municipalities. shallows, caves, and They recently took part in Hanbury Jam has a interesting populations of the reconstruction of the slightly sour taste and is sea bass and lobsters. The Herb Museum at Cosio served with tea and utilisation of the area is d’Arroscia and promoting English biscuits. IMPERIA regulated by conservation lavender (essential oils and measures aimed above all other products in the at protecting the fauna municipalities of Molini and its habitats . di Triora and Carpasio ). 10 11 Hanbury Botanical Gardens, Lomelosia cretica regional Nature park Ligurian Alps

LOCATION Piazza Umberto I 18037 Pigna (IM) Tel. +39 0184 1928312 [email protected] www.parks.it/parco.alpi.liguri/Eindex.php SURFACE AREA 6041 hectares MUNICIPALITIES Cosio d’Arroscia, Mendatica, Montegrosso Pian Latte, Pigna, Rezzo, Rocchetta Nervina, Triora

HOW TO GET THERE The Park reflects in the sea for centuries as references by RECOMMENDED lands of the Park. In these be made to what a beautiful, By car starting from its modern religions, while a ITINERARY places where the sea is and therefore rugged and A10 motorway. Val Nervia: exit at Ventimiglia or Bordighera, take the SS1 mountaintops, over 2000 civilisation of stone and Plain cuisine nearby as it shaped them tough, land can offer. The Aurelia towards the SP 64 for Dolceacqua, metres high. Due to this pasturage also materialised on The subject of food is and left its mark in the matters of the table are Rocchetta Nervina, or Pigna. Valle continuity, the Park has the land and the settlements, everyday culture in the mountains, reference must united with the need for Argentina: exit at Taggia, take the SS1 applied as a candidate as a which are still today immersed survival and the talent of Aurelia towards the SP 548 for Badalucco, Molini di Triora, Triora. Valle Arroscia: exit UNESCO World Heritage in an authentic, habitable generations of women at Imperia Est towards the SS28 for Pieve Site together with the Medieval air. There are also which transform the land di Teco, Colle di Nava. adjacent Parks of works of art whose roots are into flavour and health. By train Mercantour (France) and based in common religion, There are not many Imperia Oneglia and Imperia Porto Maurizio stations for Valle Arroscia; Taggia the Maritime Alps legends that transmit the different ingredients and station for Valle Argentina; Ventimiglia (Piedmont). dreams, hard work, and fear of they are all simple: alpine and Sanremo stations for Val Nervia. Nature’s intense work over entire generations, in the herbs , chestnuts , wheat By bus millions of years built this memory of the jus primae Riviera Trasporti has daily bus services to flour , dairy products , white the seven municipalities of the Park land, which is now a unique noctis and the witch hunts. cabbage , leek , garlic , (www.rivieratrasporti.it ) geological environment, and Triora hosted the last big turnips , potatoes , cheese . biodiversity comprises of European event in this terrible However, like magic, the refined and ancient chapter of history as we can skilled countrywomen’s endemisms. see in the specific museum on hands bring out the flavour, Together with the rich the subject. In an environment which is love for the land, quality of the particular where man can truly recognise celebration, virtuosity, micro-climate and its soils, himself, intellectuals from all satisfaction, and quality of which testify a past of deep over Europe found the right life. The cuisine is bianca geological upheaval, the climate here to develop great (plain) here, as the tomatoes Park of the Ligurian Alps has ideas. In 1957, the Situationi st and basil of the coast are far a completely different International was set up in away. Salt gets here with atmosphere to the modern Cosio d’Arroscia , right in the difficulty, but there are world, gleaning its strength middle of the Park, combining alpine huts, distance from IMPERIA from far-off eras. The traces various experiences of the home for the long periods of ancient druid rites are 20th century avant-garde of migratory herding and, conserved and were used movement. therefore, the need to 14 15 P I t H

THE WHITE BEAN c note the other S Sugeli u G OF PIGNA d great wealth of this A o r L A simple type of pasta prepared

If the Park of the F P area: the Taggiasca Ligurian Alps merits to olive dominates the with just water and flour and made into little balls, which are be appointed a lower slopes of the then shaped with the typical UNESCO World Heritage Park’s mountains. This “corpu de diu” (finger press). It Site it is largely thanks to exceptional cultivar has is traditionally served with a the composition of its soil. rightly been made famous white sauce made with It is in this incoherent land by many important chefs, fermented ricotta called brusso (bruss). This can be considered located in the high and a drizzle of extra- the “national” dish of the mountains, with chalky virgin olive oil is perhaps Ligurian Alps as it is spread all spring waters rich in the best companion of through the area of Monte minerals, where the white the white bean of Pigna Saccarello, in the brigasca area, bean of Pigna , protected to make its flavour Mendatica and its alpine huts, by the Slow Food triumph and restore the Montegrosso, Rezzo, Cosio, and Triora. movement, grows. Before deepest sense of these you taste it, you may be lands. That is to say, we tempted to say that it is must return to the white only a bean, a small ovoid bean of Pigna (and also bean, but when it comes the Cucina Bianca or the into contact with your goats and beans of { taste buds, only then will Rocchetta Nervina) if we you feel its soft butter-like really want to find out } texture, almost as if there what we are made of and, Ingredients was no skin, and a flavour in the Park of the Ligurian 1 kg of flour similar to chestnuts and Alps, if you believe that 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin fresh walnuts. our well-being is to be far olive oil nourish oneself using only d’Arroscia ; in Mendatica , a itinerary, known as the Strada The mountains of Pigna , from the hustle and 20 g of salt what can be gathered in the recipe called Streppa e della Cucina Bianca (route of Castelvittorio , and Buggio bustle, you will finally find For the sauce pastures or forests and the caccia là (literally, tear off plain cuisine), you can reach are the exclusive locations the time to ask yourself ½ glass of extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves of garlic milk of the brigasca sheep. and throw into the water as La Brigue in nearby France or of this legume: a treasure the right questions and, 150 g of bruss You can find several it is); in Montegrosso Pian Briga Alta in Piedmont where for a wonderful, suffering perhaps, find the best 1 glass of milk variations of the same Latte , another recipe, Le this culture continues. This land. Along with the white replies to these Oil, as needed dishes in each of the Raviore , ravioli containing up Cucina Bianca has a bean of Pigna, we must also questions. 2 potatoes municipalities along the to twenty types of different recognised king, the famous road of the alpine huts: an herbs; in Rezzo you can Brusso , a ricotta-based Preparation itinerary of flavours that are taste ü bunettu de laite (milk cheese that is fermented in Mix the flour with warm always different, while pudding), a simple, velvety spirits, with a strong, unique water, two tablespoons of uniting to create one dessert, and finally Triora flavour, used in dressings and extra-virgin olive oil, and salt. distinct tribute to the land. whose bread does not need dishes, or simply spread on Knead until you get an even So, herbs dominate in Cosio any fillings. Along this Triora bread. and smooth dough. Cut into balls and shape by pressing your finger into them. Cut two potatoes into chunks. Cook the sugeli and potatoes together in boiling water for Ü GRAN PISTAU Ligurian Riviera called to this wheat, i.e. pork 15 minutes. In another pan, There is a place in the fasce (terracing rind, leek, garlic, extra- fry a couple of cloves of Park of the Ligurian supported by dry-stone virgin olive oil made garlic in the half glass of from Taggiasca olives, Alps where, for many walls). The wheat grown extra-virgin olive oil. Add 150 years now, a really using this ancient bay leaves, salt, and a ancient tradition has method which involves pinch of cheese. This gr of bruss into the pan, been revived: sowing huge effort is then dish, which has now been along with a glass of milk and wheat by tearing up the harvested and placed in revived and is celebrated the oil, as needed. Drain the steep land from the a special mortar and in a festival, is another pasta and potatoes and sauté mountain by the typical crushed roughly. All that symbol of the food them in the pan with the method used in the the land offers is added rooted in the land. bruss and then dish it up. 16 17 Regional Nature Reserve RECOMMENDED ITINERARY retrieved from the wreck of Artichoke pie A dip in the history roman ship of the I Century Gallinara island The history centre of BC, sunk off the coast of Ingredients is one of the most important Albenga The Diocesan for the pastry of Liguria. The name of Museum of Sacred Art has 250 g of flour LOCATION “Albingaunum” has inside a rich colection of art 130 g of water Municipality of paleocristian and roman works which go back until one 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin Albenga olive oil Piazza San Michele, 17 origins. It is ancient Medieval thousand years ago. The salt, as needed Tel. +39 0182 5621 episcopal point. Infact we can Baptistery (second half of V for the filling 17031 Albenga see beautiful of its towers, century) is one of the most 5 Albenga artichokes [email protected] buildings and monuments in important paleochristian extra-virgin olive oil www.parks.it/riserva.isola.gallinara/ ½ onion Eindex.php archaeological areas, for monument of Liguria and example the Public Roman Northern of Italy with a fine 1 teaspoon of parsley SURFACE AREA 50 g of Parmigiano Reggiano 11.00 hectares Therme which are in the River Byzantine mosaic. In Palazzo cheese MUNICIPALITY Centa. If we are in Vadino, we Oddo we can visit a 2 eggs Albenga can go through ancient roman permanent exhibition of 200 g of prescinsêua route: the Julia Augusta route about 200 antique glass salt, as needed that is a full of archaeological pieces form the Albenga finds. The history of the town necropolis. The extraordinary is inside in its Museum: in Blue Plate from the II Century Roman Naval Museum we can AD is a unique find and see amphorae used for obviously the gem of the storing wine and tools exhibition. { for the pastry } HOW TO GET THERE Situated along the stretch communis) , easily resist Mix together all the By car of coast between Capo drought conditions thanks ingredients, gradually adding A10 motorway Genova – water a little at a time, until Santa Croce and the point to essential oils in their Ventimiglia: exit at Albenga. you get a soft dough. Leave of Vadino, Gallinara Island leaves that can secure By train to sit under a damp cloth. Genova-Ventimiglia line was detached from the molecules of water. The for the filling (Albenga station). mainland due to a rise in island hosts almost 300 By sea Fry the onion and parsley in From the port of Laigueglia there sea level during the types of flora, including an the oil. Clean the artichokes, are weekly visits in summer. Quaternary Period. The endemic species exclusive cutting off the stalk and www.liguriaviamare.it island has maintained a to eastern Liguria, known external leaves. After strong natural character. as “campanula del The island is a private property and chopping them into wedges, at the moment is not yet open, Its distinctive savonese” (Campanula take out the central section. possible boat trips around the Mediterranean habitats are sabatia De Not.) . It grows all After washing them, cut them Gallinara the euphorbia dendroides along the coast between PIGATO drop in temperatures at night into thin slices and cook with scrub and the holly oak Bergeggi and the French The Pigato grape arrived in which favours the wealth of extra-virgin olive oil and (Quercus ilex) low and high border and it is the only Liguria from Greece in the aromas of this classic Ligurian water, until they are soft. scrub. The euphorbia Ligurian vegetation species Middle Ages, from one of the wine. It is a straw coloured Then add them to the onion dendroides is an interesting of priority interest for in the wine which tends to turn and parsley. Place the tertiary relict and forms Europe. Aegean Sea. In 1830, the golden when aged. It has a artichokes, the prescinsêua , bushes up to 2 metres in It is also possible to do a prelate Francesco Gagliolo full-bodied, dry flavour, eggs, and Parmigiano height which lose their virtual visit in the “Fortino planted the first vine in with a bouquet of Reggiano into a bowl, mix leaves during summer. Genovese” which is dated Ortovero (SV), but the wine Mediterranean scrub and together, and add salt if needed. Roll out 2-3 thin Most of the shrubs of the XVI century. was only put on the market by yellow pulp. It is a notably layers with half of the dough. Mediterranean scrub, such Albenga is knew for its the winemaker Rodolfo elegant wine. Place one on top of the other, as strawberry tree (Arbutus flowers exported in all Gaggino in 1950, at the price It should be drunk within while brushing with oil, place unedo) , Spanish broom Europe and for its of 300 Lira. The best pigato three years, without letting it the filling on top and close (Spartium junceum) , thorny agricolture: can boast four grapes are generally age too much, though this using 2-3 more layers rolled broom (Calicotome typical produces : spiky cultivated on the hillside at rule is very variable out using the rest of the spinosa) , Italian buckthorn artichokes, trombetta heights of at least 300 for certain reserves dough. Brush the pie with an t

IMPERIA P c (Rhamnus alaternus) , courgettes, cuore di bue metres above sea level: with particular I

u egg yolk and a small amount H d Pistacia lentiscus , and tomatoes and purple therefore, in an environment shares of wood or S

o of oil and bake in the oven for G r A common myrtle (Myrtus asparaguses. near the sea, but also with a vinifications. P 35-40 minutes at 160°C. L

18 F 19 Gallinara Island Regional Nature Reserve RECOMMENDED find the oratory of Santa Bread-crumbed ITINERARY Caterina . The suburb of scorzonera Rio Torsero Discovering Ceriale Peagna was the home of de Seiò In the historical town ancient, noble families centre of Ceriale, we can such as the Girardenghi, Ingredients LOCATION still admire some remains Genta, and Arduini. The 1 bunch of scorzonera Municipality of Ceriale of the Medieval city walls Medieval hamlet is 3 eggs Piazza Nuova Italia, 1 extra-virgin olive oil 17023 Ceriale (SV) and tower, in addition to characteristic with its old the large tower church of San Giovanni breadcrumbs, as needed Tel. +39 0182 91931 salt, as needed [email protected] (“Torrione”) erected in Battista , dating to the 14th www.parks.it/riserva.rio.torsero/ 1564 to protect from century, with remains of Eindex.php Preparation pirate attacks. In addition, frescoes from the 15th Wash the scorzonera, cut SURFACE AREA the parish church of Santi and 16th centuries and a 4.0 hectares it up into pieces, and boil Giovanni Battista ed Baroque style bell tower. MUNICIPALITY it in salted water. Ceriale Eugenio , rebuilt in 1637 The present-day parish Drain and leave to cool. after the sack of the town church, located in the Whisk the eggs, add as mentioned above, middle of the village, some salt, and dip the contains paintings from the dates to the 18th century scorzonera into the egg. Genoa school of painting and shows hints of late- Carefully let it drip and (Orazio De Ferrari, Piola, baroque style. Peagna also them dip it into the Carlone). has “Silvio Lai” breadcrumbs. We can also admire a palaeontological museum Heat the oil in a pan and wooden crucifix displaying full of fossil shells and fry the bread-crumbed notable craftsmanship ammonites dating to scorzonera. HOW TO GET THERE Situated in the gastropodo, and which still features the hole ancient eras and By car immediate hinterland scaphopods (over of a sphere thrown by one belonging to the Regional Genova-Ventimiglia motorway, exit at Borghetto Santo Spirito, of the town of two hundred of the Algerian marauders. Nature Reserve of the towards Ceriale. Ceriale , the valley of species). Alongside the church we River Torsero. From the Via Aurelia (SP1), in the Rio Torsero is very There is no lack of centre of Ceriale, follow Via important from a corals, colonies of { Romana uphill; at the first junction palaeontological bryozoa, otoliths of turn right onto Via Magnone, } Scorzanera is a plant which becomes Via Nostra Signora point of view as it fish, remains of originally from eastern delle Grazie once you get past the hosts an extremely echinoderms and Europe and belonging to overpass over the A10. Continue rich deposit of fossils crustaceans, and straight until the crossroads where the Asteraceae family, the Via Nostra Signora delle Grazie, from the Pliocene era interesting types of same as artichokes, Strada Nuova di Peagna, Via Case (from 5.2 to 1.8 micro-fossils. radicchio, and Jerusalem Sottane, and Via Tecci e Paverne million years ago), To protect the artichoke. It is a perennial plant, cultivated annually, intersect. notable for their deposit, which has By train especially in Liguria, where Albenga railway station exceptional been studied since its use is particularly Ceriale railway station conservation the start of the 19th widespread. The roots are condition and the century, the harvested from October abundance and Regional Nature until the end of winter. variety of the pieces. Reserve of the River The name of the species has uncertain origins. It may The River Torsero Torsero was set up in derive from “scorzon” in old carved its bed from 1985. French, “Scorsone” in the sedimentary rocks A collection of TROMBETTA has a very delicate Italian, and “escorzonera” in of the “ Ortovero fossils from the COURGETTE flavour. It is very versatile Spanish, which means black formation ”, unveiling deposit can be The name “ trombetta ”, in the kitchen and goes rind; and also “viper” perhaps due to the use of its the layers containing found in the “Silvio or trumpet, is justified well with both meat and roots as an antidote to fossils. Lai” museum in by the thin, tubular, fish dishes . snakebites. There are particularly Peagna, a suburb of slender shape, with It is excellent to In Italian, the word high numbers of Ceriale, located just slightly broader ends. use in making scorzonera is mostly meant t IMPERIA P as scorza (rind) and nera c shellfish shells, a few hundred Its flesh is light yellow quiches, frittata, I u H (black). d belonging to classes metres from the and is soft, compact, and frisceu S o G r A of bivalvia, reserve. and in no way watery. It (fritters). P L

22 F 23 regional Nature park RECOMMENDED visitors can hike through Millesimo Risotto ITINERARY the entire area. with truffle BRIC TANA The Nature Trails of the Short circuit: Millesimo – Park Bric Tana – Millesimo Ingredients The nature trails – which From Millesimo you go 4 spring courgettes LOCATION together make up an along the provincial road 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin Piazza Italia 2 itinerary to best visit the to Murialdo up to the olive oil 17017 Millesimo (SV) 50 g of butter Tel. +39 019 564007 Park – run through the land Torino-Savona motorway vegetable stock, as needed ufficio [email protected] in the municipality of bridge. Under the bridge 400 g of rice www.parks.it/parco.bric.tana/Eindex.php Millesimo , which is also the there is a small road 50 g of grated Parmigiano SURFACE AREA body in charge of going uphill to the left Reggiano cheese 169 hectares managing the area. The (Via Boschetto). Taking 1 black truffle MUNICIPALITY countryside features high this, you will find the first Millesimo hills; the climate is trail signpost further on, continental with alongside a millstone wintertime temperatures leaning against a small dropping well below zero, wall. The sign points right while the heat is moderate towards the road for Bric in the summer. The Tana. From here, if you { network of the itinerary look downhill, you can } paths is divided up into see the River Bormida of Preparation circular routes . Three of Millesimo held by a small Place 25 g of butter and them are called “short” and dam; during the winter the oil in a large pot. Slice enable you to visit the months, you can use the courgettes, add them HOW TO GET THERE Strange calcium spires (den) or, in the local various locations with their binoculars to see the grey to the pot and cover with By car loom over the River dialect, “ Tana dra vurp ” particular natural herons and cormorants A6 “Verdemare” motorway the lid. Cook on a low Torino – Savona, exit at Millesimo Bormida, growing up from (fox’s den), is a true central patrimony in just a short resting on the poplars heat for 10 minutes. By train the chestnut groves and node where the nature and time. The other two “large” and alders that populate In the meantime, keep Cengio railway station 5 km away mixed forests of the small history of the protected circuits cover a broader the opposite bank the stock on the boil. and San Giuseppe di Cairo railway regional park of Bric Tana, area intersect. surface area, so that fitter of the river. station 8 km away Add the rice to the pot with its important presence In the immediate and gradually add the of surface and surroundings of this stock a little at a time, underground karst forms. geological phenomenon stirring constantly. When TRUFFLE In some caves there are there is an archaeological hunters, organised in cooked, add the truffle, The king of the table niches where millstones site which boasts primary associations, find the chopped up into tiny The city of truffles , Millesimo were carved out by patient importance for Liguria and precious tuber, both black leaves, along with the and the surrounding hills are stonecutters , while certain interest on a and white varieties , the king remaining butter and the lands where expert truffle prehistoric relics were national level also. of the table since ancient Parmigiano Reggiano, found in the place called times. The quality of the stirring well. Serve Tana dell’Orpe . Thanks to land and environmental and immediately, the palaeobotanical climactic conditions bring accompanying the dish with a good bottle of red research related to the the quality of the product wine. study of pollen found at the to the heights of Alba truffles. Indeed, the two- site, we now know about (The recipe was kindly the primordial state of the day National Truffle Festival is held at Millesimo every provided by Giovanna area and the dietary habits Dadone Bormida, who is an of the ancient inhabitants. year during the last week of award-winning chef from the The Protected area of Bric September. In addition to Ligurian Truffle Hunter and Farmer Association of Tana and Valle dei Tre Re offering side-shows and exhibitions, there Millesimo – The City of was created to safeguard Truffles). the karst phenomenon, are also with its sink-holes and conferences and t IMPERIA discussions P c ponors. The existence of a I u H

organised on the d large ponor that can be S o G topic. r A explored called “Tana” P L

24 F 25 regional Nature park the oratory of the 20th century found on Langa hazelnut cake Annunciazione, and the the slopes. Moreover, you Piana Crixia picturesque hamlet typically can find all the shops and Ingredients arranged in terraces with, restaurants where you can 100 g of “Tonda Gentile delle above it, the barely visible buy and taste the traditional Langhe” hazelnuts LOCATION ruins of the medieval castle dishes from Liguria and 100 g of sugar 1 egg Via Chiarlone, 47 with its reconstruction in Piedmont near this trail. 17058 Piana Crixia (SV) 100 g of plain flour Tel. +39 019 570021 75 g of dry amaretti biscuits [email protected] 100 g of butter THE SPRING should not miss the duo of www.parks.it/parco.piana.crixia/ ½ sachet of baking powder for BLOSSOMING OF the “Giro basso dei Eindex.php desserts SPONTANEOUS ORCHIDS calanchi” (low gully trail) SURFACE AREA In the patches of meadows and Himantoglossum 795 hectares and the glades we find adriaticum which matches MUNICIPALITY around twenty different the small orchid Piana Crixia species of spontaneous characterised by a large orchids which, along with “tongue” with the appeal notable scientific interest, of the imposing forms are also a wonderful sight which erosion moulded into { with their shapes and the clayish rocks of the colours, something to look slopes of the hills of } out for while you are Piana, criss-crossed with walking along the gullies the branching cracks which Preparation of one of the various water carved into the land, Mix the egg with the sugar, visiting itineraries creating fascinating flour, and butter. geometrical hieroglyphics. offered. You certainly Shell the hazelnuts and toast in the oven until they turn HOW TO GET THERE Piana Crixia is located in a wine and food products golden, then chop them up By car strategic position at the (where the famous Ravioli Savona-Torino motorway finely together with the dry To reach Piana Crixia by car, exit at foot of the Ligurian alla Pianese are the tastiest amaretti biscuits. the Altare-Carcare or Millesimo Apennines, just 35 km from emblem of the entire Mix them in well with the toll booth on the Savona-Torino Savona and the same gastronomic stand) are dough, adding the baking motorway. Then follow the state distance from the town of united with open-air live powder. Then pour it all into road for Acqui Terme, going past Cairo Montenotte. Acqui Terme, already music and small commercial a buttered tin and bake in a By train famous back in Roman activities from Valle Bormida. fan oven at 180°C for You can also get to Piana Crixia by times for its sulphurous, approximately 45 minutes. train (the Savona-Alessandria line). boiling waters. The paternal RECOMMENDED The railway station is located in the (Kindly provided by centennial suburb Molino. grandmother of Pope ITINERARY Francis was born in Piana From “stone mushroom” to Trattoria Tripoli). Crixia (in the hamlet of the flavours of the land Cagna, now called San During the entire calendar Massimo) in 1884 and, still year, you can visit the today, we can see the evocative ice house (dating houses where to the end of the 19th TONDA GENTILE as “Tonda Gentile delle rancid. The nut is “Grandmother Rosa century) and the old HAZELNUT Langhe” up to recently – second only to almonds Margherita Vassallo” was irrigation canal, which has The hazelnut is the fruit which is the most in terms of vitamin E born and lived during her now become a waterway of the common hazel widespread cultivar in levels . youth, along with the that connects the village and (Corylus avellana ), a tree Langhe and in Liguria. Due to its good yield Baptistery where she was the Park area where we can originally from Europe The nuts are light in and, above all, its baptised in the church of admire, from a and Asia Minor, which colour and have a thin organoleptic qualities it San Massimo. From June geomorphological point of belongs to the shell. They have a high is considered the most 26th to July 5th, the view, the Stone mushroom Corylaceae family. yield from shelling esteemed variety on a prestigious Market of the and the meanders of the The hazel groves we find (46-48%) and the nut global level and its Piana Tourist Office is held River Bormida and, from an inside the Park has a great aroma and a entire harvest in Piana Crixia . This festival, architectural and landscape belong to the delicate flavour . The fat is bought t

IMPERIA P c which involves every citizen view point, the monumental cultivar called I level is low and, up by the u H d of Piana, is like the local parish church of Santi Tonda Gentile S therefore, it conserves sweet-making o G r A EXPO where the typical Eugenio, Vittore e Corona, Trilobata – known P well without turning industry. L

26 F 27 Regional Nature Reserve RECOMMENDED find the Adelasia Tagliolini alla ITINERARY Regional Nature Reserve povera (Poor Man’s Adelasia Following ’s which still has well- Tagliolini) footsteps visible traces of the Starting from Savona famous battle among the Ingredients LOCATION towards the Sanctuary of woods (trekking for the pasta Via Sormano, 12 Savona , a spectacular enthusiasts should not 500 g of all-purpose flour 17100 Savona 5 whole eggs Tel. +39 019 8313432 basilica dedicated to the miss a night in the 10 bunches of nettles, boiled in [email protected] Virgin Mary on the site Cascina Miera shelter in advance www.parks.it/riserva.adelasia/ where Our Lady of Mercy the Reserve for a unique Eindex.php salt, as needed appeared to the saint experience among for the sauce SURFACE AREA Antonio Botta in 1536. nature, history and 400 g of porcini mushrooms 1273 hectares Here, Napoleon organised legend with routes 200 g of jowl bacon MUNICIPALITY the details of the counter- suited to everybody, 1 shallot Cairo Montenotte attack of Montenotte. including by mountain 1 matured toma cheese from Val Bormida Then you climb up towards bike or horse). extra-virgin olive oil Mount Negino, where the The itinerary then white wine, as needed French lines were continues, passing by the positioned, with remains suburb Ferriera di of the fortifications still Montenotte turning there today, and continue towards Dego , where on in the direction of the battle of the same Montenotte where you name took place. { Preparation } HOW TO GET THERE Geomorphological called after the Princess for the pasta By car protrusions, abundance of Adelasia , the daughter of Make dough by mixing the A6 Torino – Savona, exit at Carcare, towards Altare to SP 12 water and majestic beech Otto I of Saxony who, flour with the egg yolks and Savona – Altare. tree forests , together with legend has it, eloped to the nettles, well squeezed and From Savona – SS 29 of Colle di typical Mediterranean Liguria with her beloved chopped up. Add the egg Cadibona towards Turin, at Altare vegetation formations, Aleramo, the squire she whites and salt a little at a take the SP 12 Savona – Altare time. Prepare small portions towards Savona. meadows full of orchids married against her By train and glades, are the main father’s will, and found with the dough, around 80-90 Torino-Savona rail line, characteristics of the sole safe refuge here in these g each, roll them out, leave to Ferrania railway station. Ligurian Reserve that is woods. rest, and then prepare the By bus tagliolini. EscursioniBUS, upon request, fully publicly owned. The These places were also Freephone number 800 012727 name derives from the rock the setting of the battle for the sauce (call 48 hours in advance). of Montenotte fought in Wash the porcini mushrooms April 1796 between the THE MUSHROOMS every autumn to pick the well, eliminating the earth with a brush. Dice the stalks and Austrian and The Reserve is found in a delicious porcini and slice the heads. Brown half the Piedmontese allies and Site of Community caesar’s mushrooms , but shallot in some oil, add a dash the French troupes Importance (S.C.I.), also for researchers and of wine, and add in the commanded by Napoleon including a complex group scholars, given the presence mushroom stalks. Once they in a crucial time of GENOVA of slopes and valley floors of extremely are cooked, blend into a cream modern history. which feature high rare species and new to that is not too thick. Brown SAVONA We can still see traces of biodiversity values with Liguria, such as Russula the other half shallot in oil, add that battle among the forest formations, dry carpini , Russula puellula a dash of wine, and then the woods, with the trenches meadows, and humid zones. Ebbesen , Phanerochaete jowl bacon. Once browned, at Bric Tesoro - This rich, varied panorama velutina , and Cortinarius add in the sliced mushrooms. Castellazzo, places which creates an environment caesioflavescens , a Cook the tagliolini, adding one still show great charm: that is particularly particularly tablespoon of oil and salt into people say that they talk favourable to the growth of interesting species the water. Then sauté in the to those who know how mushrooms: an authentic because this is pan with the sauce and grate t

IMPERIA P c to listen, telling in their paradise, not only for the the first time it I some toma cheese on top. u H d own way what happened has been found S “mushroom pickers ” who o (Kindly provided by Locanda G r A 200 years ago. come in their thousands in Italy. P dei Frè). L

28 F 29 marine protected area passes near to the Fort of Ciuppin Sant’Elena which or Fish soup ISland of BERGEGGI dominates the entire coast, rises up to Ingredients Castellaro – an ancient 2 kg of various types of fish LOCATION settlement of the first (cuttlefish, silver scabbardfish, Via De Mari, 28/D Ligurians - and then rockfish, weaverfish, atlantic 17028 Bergeggi (SV) stargazers, tub gurnards, eels, red Tel. +39 019 25790201 descends back down to mullet, wrasses) [email protected] Torre del Mare . 50 g of pine nuts www.ampisolabergeggi.it From here, following the 1 stalk of white celery historical carruggi , you 1 carrot reach the coast and then 1 shallot continue the walk along by 1 leek tomatoes, as needed the sea. The itinerary 1 glass of Vermentino white wine weaves among the fish fumet, as needed historical-archaeological, 2 cloves of garlic botanical, and naturalistic parsley, as needed RECOMMENDED sites in the heart of the rosemary, as needed saffron pistils ITINERARY Bergeggi Regional Nature nutmeg, to taste The equipped botanical Reserve with spectacular extra-virgin olive oil path clambers up among views of the Island and the salt, as needed the typical Ligurian coast, among glimpses of pepper, as needed terracing cultivations, the unexpected beauty of through the “Natte” cork the high cliffs plunging HOW TO GET THERE A spur of rock covered in of Mount Sant’Elena, the church oak wood (the largest of its down into the sea, opening By car Mediterranean brush in the of San Martino, the square with kind in eastern Liguria), out into the sea cave . You can exit the A10 at the Savona toll booth or at Spotorno-Noli, middle of the sea, sea beds the school and the houses or you can take the state highway with corals and meadows of surrounded by dry-stone walls no. 1 Aurelia, towards Posidonia oceanica , a rocky and caruggi (alleyways) which { Genova-Ventimiglia and vice versa. coast made of cliffs, caves, steeply lead down to the sea. By train } and inlets: this is the The beaches of Bergeggi with The closest railway station is Preparation Spotorno-Noli; as an alternative, Protected Marine Area called their crystal clear waters are In an earthenware pan, heat a get off at Savona station and the “Island of Bergeggi”, a perfect for practising water minced mixture of garlic, continue the journey by public bus. treasure chest of bio-diversity, sports in almost any time of the parsley, and pine nuts in history, and legends. The coast year: diving, snorkelling, extra-virgin olive oil. Add the is watched over by a small swimming, sailing, windsurfing, chopped-up shallot, white village sheltered on the slopes kayaking, stand up paddling, celery, carrot, leek, and fishing, excursions, and many rosemary. Wet with a splash more. The Blue Flag of the of Vermentino wine and cook beaches (starting from 1997) for at least 15 minutes. Add and the Environmental the saffron pistils, some Certificate ISO14001 (since FISH ON THE TABLE : want to save precious grated nutmeg, well-ripe sustainable consumption biological resources from GENOVA 2007) testify the daily effort tomatoes, and, if needed, the being made to improve the Within the Protected Marine collapse, while simultaneously fish fumet prepared in the

SAVONA quality of life for citizens and Area, human activities are preserving the tradition of meantime with the fish tourists. The stretch of the managed in a sustainable artisan fishing , “good” food scraps. Add all of the fish to coast overlooking the island of manner and artisan fishermen, must inevitably be “good” for the sauce, and sauté it for a Bergeggi boasts Liguria’s most conserving an ancient culture, the environment as well; the few minutes. Pour in the rest well-known sea cave . Used since when they carry out their fish from the Island of of the fumet until all the fish ancient times, numerous activity in a responsible Bergeggi Protected Marine is covered well, and cook for approximately 30 minutes. palethnological remains were manner, are not only Area fished from Blend it all and add salt and found inside the cave dating to compatible with the needs of the sea at Noli, are t

IMPERIA P pepper if needed. Dress with c the Neolithic period, testifying the Protected Marine Area, protected by the I u

H a drizzle of extra-virgin olive d the cave’s use as both a burial but also represent a true Slow Food S o

G oil. Serve with croutons. r A and living space. patrimony of the area. If we Movement. P L

30 F 31 regional Nature park fostering the Beigua district. range of dairy products (milk commercialisation of There is a notable ancient and cheese), the different BEIGUA products in a network of tradition in the processings of beef and the local market and also confectionery industry: lamb , the colourful and tasty broader forms of including amaretti di forest fruits , the coveted LOCATION distribution. There are Sassello , now exported all picking and conservation of Via G. Marconi, 165 numerous delicacies to be over the world, the mushrooms and chestnuts , 16011 (GE) Tel. +39 010 8590300 discovered and tasted in exquisite crumiri di , in addition to the delicious [email protected] agricultural and agritourism and the canestrelli di honey , all precious www.parcobeigua.it enterprises and at the inns Sambuco . These are environmental indicators of SURFACE AREA and restaurants of the completed by the wide the Park’s wide valleys. 8715 hectares MUNICIPALITIES Arenzano, , RECOMMENDED majestic 15th century chestnuts and the spectacular , Genoa, Masone, ITINERARY Medieval castle which stands canyon of the Gargassa , Sassello, Stella, , Varazze The Park honey route over the red roofs and Valley . The itinerary Reaching the Stura Valley beautiful frescoed and continues, leaving behind it from Passo del Turchino, you decorated buildings of the the road leading to Ovada, come to Masone, the historical centre. For following in the footsteps of perfect location for relaxing centuries it was fief of the the Cistercian monks towards strolls through the woods, to Spinola family and now is the Tiglieto , in the Upper Valley of discover the processing of capital of filigree and is part the River Orba, where the the cheese made with the of the “ Italy’s most beautiful abbey of Santa Maria alla milk produced from the hamlets ” circuit. At Campo Croce was built in 1120. Here HOW TO GET THERE In a land rich in contrasts like by mountains facing out grazing animals of Beigua, to Ligure you can find Cascina too you buy excellent honey By car Liguria, nestled between the onto the sea, where nature, taste the delicious “crumiri” Fornacia , a small family-led at the Vinazza beekeepers . The A10 Genova – Ventimiglia: exit at Genova-, Arenzano, Varazze, mountains and the sea, the history, culture, and biscuits and the surprising beekeeping enterprise that culinary route through the Celle Ligure, and Albisola; Park of Beigua – the largest ancient traditions are honeys of the beekeeping produces delicious fruit jams heart of the Park of Beigua A26 Voltri – Santhià: exit at natural protected area in extraordinarily precious enterprise Amè d’Masun , made from the harmonious crosses through the suburbs Masone. Liguria – is a perfect and note-worthy elements. which with its 160 beehives union of honey and forest of Urbe, then reaches the By train Genova – Ventimiglia line: the example of the region where The Beigua district was spread out between five fruits. Following along the historic centre of Sassello , the railway stations of Voltri, you can find, in close included under the apiaries, is one of the most main road, you come to first Italian municipality to be Arenzano, Cogoleto, Varazze, quarters, environments and prestigious list of important producers in the Rossiglione , famous for its granted the Orange Flag of Celle Ligure, and Albisola. Genova landscapes that are so international geoparks Park. When you cross the traditional autumn event the Italian Touring Club for – Ovada line: the railway stations of Campo Ligure and Rossiglione. different from one another, under the aegis of village of Masone you come held on the first Sunday of the tourist and environmental By bus leaving visitors stunned. A UNESCO in 2005. to Campo Ligure , with the October dedicated to quality of the hinterland. The ATP Genoa Provincial Transport spectacular balcony formed The natural protected area amaretto capital, Sassello is Company ( www.atpesercizio.it ) is a special land, not only famous all over Liguria for the TPL Savona Line ( www.tpllinea.it ) ARFEA Alessandria ( www.arfea.it ) due to the conservation of wealth found in the forest the biodiversity and the undergrowth and the prestige geodiversity, but also of the porcini mushrooms. because of the protection Just a short distance from the

GENOVA of the cultural identity of centre, it is worth visiting each community found another prestigious

SAVONA within it. There are various beekeeping enterprise, called initiatives activated to la Bottinatrice , which promote and enhance local produces amazing biological productions , involving honey. Then going uphill agricultural and towards the soft slopes of agritourism enterprises , in Mount Beigua , you cross order to support a through the thick beech tree sustainable development of woods of Piampaludo and IMPERIA the local economy, Pratorotondo , precious including by reviving treasure chests of various traditional productions and species of mushrooms, 32 33 wonderful to take the sea begins; a spectacular and for the Neolithic Bunettu (custard) photographs of and panoramic road leads from settlements of the “Rock delicious to eat cooked. the ridge to mixed woods shelter of Fenestrelle”. The bunettu is a custard with an Once you get to the top of with broad-leaved trees Before reaching Varazze, ancient tradition, typical of Mount Beigua and pass by typical of the Alpicella area, we recommend stopping Liguria and Piedmont (bunet). On special feast days, to add the Plain of Stella , the famous for its rock walls to off to taste the honey some prestige to the dessert, tortuous descent towards be climbed (“bouldering”) produced by the beekeeping the precious Amaretti di Sassello enterprise Emilia Montali in were added to the custard. Campomarzio. Once you Traditionally the bunettu was reach the coastal stretch, cooked in a copper mould placed on a wood-burning stove. you go past the beautiful beaches of Varazze , Ingredients Cogoleto , and Arenzano , 5 fresh eggs enjoying wonderful 1 litre of milk panoramas over the Gulf of 8 armelline (kernels from peach or apricot seeds) Liguria, to then arrive at the 200 g of sugar (150 g to be last stop-off of our itinerary melted in the milk for the cream, which we reach by climbing 50 g for the caramel) back up the green Cerusa 3 soft Amaretti di Sassello Valley, on the heights of biscuits 1 glass of Vermouth Genoa-Voltri , where in AMARETTI DI produced via a delicate Sambugo you can SASSELLO process: the rolling, appreciate the delicious The amaretti biscuits are where the dough is honey of the agricultural extremely high quality, placed on the baking enterprise of Francesco created with the trays in small portions; Bozzano , a genuine ingredients of an the baking, and, above testimonial of the passion all, the wrapping in the { ancient recipe that of these lands. dates to the 19th traditional bow shape. } Preparation century: almonds , This is why the amaretto Place the kernels in a glass of apricot kernels , egg is round and a bit lukewarm water for a few white, and sugar. squashed, with a soft minutes. Peel them and THE CISTERCIAN ABBEY nearby important products with the The apricot kernels are a and aromatic heart and crush with a mortar and OF TIGLIETO connecting roads towards neighbouring areas. vital ingredient which the characteristic pestle until they became a Founded in 1120, the abbey the towns of Genoa and In recent years, there have characterise the slightly bitter flavour. paste. Break and whip the of Santa Maria e Santa Savona. From its been important restoration amaretti and distinguish Recently, in addition to eggs. Crumble up the Croce of Tiglieto was the foundation onwards, the works carried out on the first Cistercian monastery monks dedicated themselves Abbey, including with the their flavour. In Liguria, the traditional version, amaretti with your hands. built in Italy and outside to the cultivation of the support of the Managing there are abundant new multi-flavoured Place the milk, sugar, France. The Romanesque land and farming and Body of the Park of Beigua, crops of apricots whose amaretti are being armelline paste, crumbled- complex is comprised of the woodland activities, which have brought back to stone contains a very produced, with a rich up amaretti, whipped eggs looking after the woods, the surface the ancient church, the monastery, and particular bitter almond, variety of flavours (rum, and Vermouth into a the refectory on three sides picking fruit and trading splendour of these places. the armellina, which hazelnut, chocolate, container. Then pour the of the cloister, with the resulting mixture into a large fourth side bordering areas must be skilfully mandarin, coconut, custard mould. Cook using used for agricultural use. In balanced with the classic lemon). the “bain-marie” method for the middle of the Medieval sweet almond. The companies from approximately four hours, era, when the first monks The amaretti are Sassello that produce placing the mould into a arrived from Cîteaux, there these tasty biscuits are were no settlements in the wide saucepan, taking care plain of Tiglieto, surrounded Giacobbe , Virginia , to add more water to the by thick woods and isolated Isaia , La Sassellese , pan when it evaporates. by the mountains behind it. Amaretti Vittoria – When the bunettu is cooked, Also, the ground was marshy Panarello , Biscottificio leave it to cool down and due to the nearby River del Sassello – Orba . It was the perfect then take it out of the Baratti & Milano, mould. Turn upside down and t

place to ensure the solitude P c and some I of the community of u serve on a plate H d S

brothers, but not complete local o accompanied by a glass of G r A isolation thanks to the confectioners. P Passito wine. L

34 F 35 View from Mount Beigua protected natural area of local along the routes climbing paths linking the ancient city Trenette al pesto back up in the city, the “villa to the hills: the steep stoned interest Mura park residences”, rural nuclei that uphill paths to the new walls Ingredients represent interesting whose six gateways link up to for the pesto (with a mortar historical agricultural the two valleys; link-up and pestle) LOCATION structures. The land is also pathways halfway up the slope 70 g of leaves of Basilico Municipality of Genoa full of traces of the main and on the ridges; 19th Genovese DOP Via Garibaldi, 9 50 g of Parmigiano Reggiano 16124 Genoa roads of passage between century military mule tracks cheese (matured 36 months) [email protected] the port of Genoa and the which connect the forts lying 10 g of Pecorino Sardo cheese www.parks.it/parco.mura/Eindex.php Valley regions: the Roman Via more inland; mechanical lines (matured 15 months) IAT Postumia over the River built between the end of the 2 tablespoons of top choice fresh Tel. +39 010 55729031 pine nuts from Pisa [email protected] , the ancient Via del 19th century and the start of Sale (Salt Road), then the 20th century (Zecca-Righi 3 cloves of garlic from Vessalico SURFACE AREA 1 pinch of cooking salt 611.69 hectares retraced in Medieval times by funicular, Principe-Granarolo 3 tablespoons of extra-virgin MUNICIPALITY Via dei Feudi Imperiali over cog railway, narrow gauge olive oil Genoa the River , comprising railway, the so-called Casella for the pasta the matrix of the settlements train, which runs along the 670 g of durum wheat flour outside the city along the eastern edge of the Mura Park 1 egg edge of the Park. There are and connects it up to Antola 20 g of white wine also the traditional pedestrian Regional Park). 255 g of water

BASIL from the 19th century thanks

P Basil is one of the to the introduction of I t H most typical greenhouses to agriculture in c S u

HOW TO GET THERE Behind the Old Port and the above sea level with highly G

d cultivations of Liguria , a strongly agricultural area: A By car o r historical city, in the panoramic points with 360° L the symbol of the western side of Genoa. { F A10 Fiori motorway, Genova – P Ventimiglia, exit at Genova Ovest barycentre position with views over the city, Corsica, agriculture suspended Genoese basil, or Basilico Preparation } A12 motorway Genova – Rosignano, respect to the linear and the Alps. on the sea and a Genovese DOP , is protected for the pesto exit at Genova Est progression of the coast and cuisine with ancient flavours. by the EU under “protected Clean the garlic and crush it A26 motorway Voltri – Gravellona, the urban extension along the RECOMMENDED ITINERARY Dating back centuries, the designation of origin” label of which connects to the A10 at Voltri with the mortar and pestle until A7 motorway Genova – Milano, exit rivers Polcevera and Bisagno, The fortifications route cultivation of basil has been quality. The certificate was it becomes a paste, add the at Genova Ovest historical axes of This land conserves notable enjoying unprecedented granted following the pine nuts and then the basil and By train communication between the signs of the urban history of popularity in recent years. demonstration of the salt. Press (no longer crushing) Genova Principe and Genova sea and the Po Valley, the Genoa: the historic aqueduct, Basil was introduced to influence of the environment for some time, turning it Brignole railway stations. The Park is connected to main Mura Park boasts an ancient and complex various areas of the and the traditional around in order to get an even Italian and European cities by characteristics of high levels structure used to supply the Mediterranean and to production techniques paste; at the end, add the Regional, Intercity, and Eurostar of nature and is the largest city with water; sixteen towers Liguria itself by the Romans, handed down over time in Parmigiano, the Pecorino, and trains. green area of the city. It and fortresses built between the oil a little at a time. By aeroplane who considered it to have obtaining an inimitable Cristofolo Colombo airport quickly reaches 600 metres the second half of the 18th medicinal properties. It product, the basic ingredient for the pasta www.airport.genova.it century and the first half of the became a traditional in the recipe for Genoese Spill the flour onto a pastry 19th century; the imposing city cultivation in Genoa starting pesto. board. Pour the egg, wine, and walls dating to 1626, which some of the water into the limited the city’s growth until middle. Mix the liquid and last century, with 13 of the gradually add in the flour and GENOVA the remaining water. Knead original 20 km still conserved until the dough is sufficiently SAVONA in a good state, making them elastic and smooth, not sticky. the longest in Europe, an Leave to stand for about an inseparable historical and hour. With the rolling pin, start landscape pairing with the Park to roll out one part of the and the distinctive symbol of dough up to approximately 3 the city. In addition, there are mm in height and then use the numerous other testimonies of pastry wheel to cut out strips 5 past history conserved in the mm wide. As you go, place the IMPERIA Park: archaeological sites, strips to dry on a cloth monasteries and convents sprinkled with flour. 38 39 regional Nature park emerges in the most western part of the ANTOLA protected area, on the other hand, gives unusual and spectacular forms to LOCATION the land, creating canyons Scientific offices: La with rugged sides, Torriglietta, Via N.S. Provvidenza 3 overhanging pinnacles and 16029 (GE) walls that make perfect Tel. +39 010 944175 habitats for numerous birds [email protected] of prey and feature www.parcoantola.it/Eindex.php characteristic rocky SURFACE AREA vegetation. 4837 hectares There many food farming MUNICIPALITIES , , Fascia, products of the Park , , , included in the Regional Ronco , , roadmap of traditional , Torriglia, , products : in order to indicate the local origin a label was set up called “ The RECOMMENDED creating canyons with Flavours of the Park ”, fruit ITINERARY rugged sides, overhanging of a careful promotional Itinerary 1 pinnacles and walls that and development policy of From the motorway exit recall an Alpine the Local Market Network. at (A7 environment. Wedged HOW TO GET THERE In the heart of the ancient mule tracks, These include the meat of motorway Genova- between two natural By car Ligurian Apennines, the Mount Antola is the Antola and the delicious Milano), you take the defensive towers, the A7 Genova – Milano (exit at Busalla, provincial road no. 8 Castello della Pietra in , Isola del Cantone); Regional Nature Park of centre of an imposing mostardella sausage , the A12 Genova – Rosignano (exit at Antola ranges over the mountain chain which honey and the delicate rose which goes up the Vobbia Vobbia dominates the Genova Est, SS 45 state highway upper Scrivia and spreads out like a syrup from the Scrivia Valley and weaves along valley with its admirable Genova – Piacenza) valleys, in a sunburst from the Valley , without forgetting the evocative canyon uniqueness. Main roads: S.S. 35 “dei Giovi”; S.S. 45 Genova – Piacenza; S.P. 226. mountainous land which panoramic climax, at the potatoes and chestnuts, carved out by the river A stop-off in the town of By train holds great patrimony borders of four regions the food of bygone times. from the conglomerate Vobbia means you can Genova – Arquata Scrivia line and of nature and (Liguria, Piedmont, Those with a sweet tooth rock. Massive and, at the taste the delicious with the Genova – Casella railroad biodiversity, history and Lombardy, and Emilia just cannot miss the local same time, easily mostardella , a typical By bus ATP S.p.A. (Provincial transport architecture, and Romagna). pandolce (sweet bread) and fractured, the sausage made with raw company) lines leaving from Genoa traditions. There are numerous the delicious canestrelletti conglomerate gives beef and pork. You then By foot The crossing of paths climbing up from di Torriglia biscuits, one of unusual and spectacular follow on towards From Alta Via dei Monti Liguri, numerous paths and the old rural hamlets forms to the land, Crocefieschi where you through the two crossings of the Park’s top products . Crocetta d’Orero and Passo della towards the peak of come upon the road for Scoffera Mount Antola. Hikers Nenno and the are greeted with an Valley , as far as the village extraordinary panorama of Avosso. In this area, the ranging from the breeding of cattle and pigs

GENOVA to the guarantees the production north-western Alpine of the typical Formaggetta

SAVONA arch. From the and ricotta cheese of the beginning of spring Scrivia Valley . onwards, the soft chalky From Avosso, going along slopes of Antola display the provincial road 226 beautiful and abundant towards Busalla , you reach blossomings including Savignone with the chance narcissus , the Park’s to visit the various symbol flower. agricultural enterprises IMPERIA The conglomerate which produce the rose formation which syrup of the Scrivia Valley. 40 41 P I t H

is the symbol of the ROSE SYRUP it is made with c S Rose Syrup u G environmental quality of The rose syrup is produced in just roses, sugar, d A o r L

this area. the Scrivia Valley. For and lemon, F P Ingredients From Torriglia, drive along centuries and until some without any 1 l of spring water the provincial road no. 15 decades ago, in the Scrivia colourings or 1 kg of sugar of Val Brugneto which Valley (in the Genoa preservatives, in small from 300 g to 500 g of petals of roses suited to offers evocative panoramic hinterland) it was very laboratories with flowers syrup glimpses of Brugneto Lake common in the gardens of cultivated in the valley without 1 lemon, its juice and the meadows of the country homes to any use of chemical products. Antola . Here, from early cultivate these specific roses It can be used as a drink spring to early autumn, you whose petals were used to diluted in cool water, or added can hear the bells of the make syrup, jams and other to white wine as an aperitif. cows out to pasture. The particular recipes, also used In can replace sugar in hot tea meat from Antola is one of for their medicinal properties. and gives a particular flavour the most recognisable The environmental conditions to sorbets and ice-cream , { products with “ The of the Scrivia Valley are panna cotta , yoghurt , fruit } Flavours of the Park ” logo. favourable for planting salads , and crêpes . It is Once past the town of rosacee in general and roses protected by the Slow Food Preparation Propata, the itinerary in particular: the main Movement. Bring the water to the The traditional Rose Festival take the famous state follows on towards Casa del varieties used for this boil. Take off the heat and which is held in Busalla highway no. 45 from Romano and the purposes are some of the add the rose petals. every year on the second Genoa for around 25 km, Cassingheno Valley : in the oldest species, rugosa and Energetically mix the weekend of June sees all which weaves along the spring, the mowed meadows muscosa , selected over time infusion until all the petals the producers attending Trebbia Valley on its way enable you to admire, even until they reached a rustic are incorporated into the and offers the opportunity down to Piacenza. Along from the side of the road, quality and a rate of liquid. Add the juice of to taste the syrup and the streets of the hamlet, the copious and perfumed adaptation to the land that one lemon. Leave to stand discover the many possible an intense aroma invites blossomings of narcissus, they are suitable for “natural” for 24 hours at room combinations. you to enter into the many the symbolic flower of the production. By researching temperature. Itinerary 2 stores and taste the typical protected area. Once you texts and gathering Once the time of infusion This itinerary starts off in canestrelletto biscuits. In get back to SS 45 in testimonies on the field, the has passed, place the the Medieval hamlet of May of every year, the Beinaschi , you continue in association of local producers liquid into a container, Torriglia, at the foot of the traditional Festival is held the direction of Genoa once recovered the ancient recipes including that obtained ancient Castle Fieschi and in honour of this typical again. In Montebruno , a for rose syrup and jam, to from manually squeezing Mount Prelà, with the biscuit made with flour, historical village located on save from oblivion this the petals (the petal mush rivers Trebbia and Scrivia eggs, butter, and sugar. In the left bank of the River traditional product with many must be squeezed, running down from the Torriglia you can also taste Trebbia, you can have a virtues. Rose petal syrup has compact and dry). Filter the infusion with a gauze latter’s slopes. To reach the honey, a traditional “sweet” break with an intense colour and aroma; or a sieve. Torriglia, you just need to food farming product that canestrelli and pandolce . Put the infusion on the hob once more. Add the sugar, trying to melt it MOUNT ANTOLA modern hikers, attracted connects the Po Valley fully. AND VIA DEL MARE by the undisputed and the hills of the Bring to the boil. Leave A crossing of numerous landscape and Oltrepò Pavese area to the the syrup to boil for a few paths and ancient mule naturalistic value of this promontory of Portofino minutes. Using a colander tracks, the peak of Mount land. and the sea. and a funnel, pour the There are many Just a few minutes’ walk Antola (1597 metres above syrup into dry bottles with sea level) is an important itineraries leading up to from the top of Mount hub of the hiking network the peak, including Antola you can find food an airtight top. The syrup along the Ligurian short, easy tracks by and drinks at the Rifugio is ready to use in a few Apennines. Human foot, by mountain bike escursionistico Parco days. presence on this mountain or by horse or long Antola refuge with the It can be drank with fresh goes back to ancient itineraries for a few possibility to stay water as a thirst- times: from shepherds with days trekking, like the overnight (30 beds in quenching and refreshing their flocks and merchants Via del Mare , the shared rooms, for summer drink, or drank “highest” of the salt heading towards the plain, information contact: pure and hot as a cure-all to people out picking route which, passing by T. +39 339 4874872 – medicinal herbs and Antola, still today www.rifugioantola.com ). of wintertime ailments. 42 43 Regional Nature Park of Antola, blooming daffodils regional Nature park high density of a species by hectare), in addition to a Portofino remarkable variety of birds and invertebrates. From a religious, historical, LOCATION and architectural point of Viale Rainusso, 1 view, the land managed by 16038 Santa Marcherita Ligure (GE) the body encompasses a Tel. +39 0185 289479 fascinating series of [email protected] testimonies, above all http://www.parcoportofino.com/par related to the first human codiportofino/en/homepage.page settlements in ancient SURFACE AREA times, the Castellaro di 1056 hectares , the Abbey of San MUNICIPALITIES Camogli, Portofino, , Fruttuoso , the thousand- year-old church of San Nicolò di Capodimonte, Mediterranean scrub Margherita Ligure the Abbey of San and the wonderful views Before leaving in the Gerolamo, known as over Cala dell’Oro and morning we recommend Cervara , and the numerous the Tower, as far as visiting the thousand- fortifications including Pietre Strette. year-old abbey of San Castello Brown in Day 2: Hike from San Fruttuoso, a monastery Portofino. Fruttuoso to Santa full of history and A network of over seventy HOW TO GET THERE The Park manages the extremely limited zone, kilometres of paths enables By car three Sites of Community the co-existence of you to choose from walks A12 Genova – Livorno, toll booths of: , Rapallo, Importance (Park of extremely different and hikes of various length SS 1 Aurelia Portofino, Rio Tuia- types of vegetation: and difficulty, with the By train Montallegro, from the mesophile possibility to appreciate to Genova-La Spezia line, stations of: Pineta-Lecceta delle woods of the northern the maximum the peculiar Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo, , Chiavari Grazie) slopes to the nature of the entire zone. By bus The particular Mediterranean brush of You can get to the municipalities of geomorphological and the southern slopes RECOMMENDED the Park by the bus services of micro-climatic which host a broad ITINERARY Tigullio Trasporti S.p.A. By sea characteristics of the area concentration of flora Two days trekking from Trasporti Marittimi Turistici Golfo have enabled, in an (with an exceptionally Camogli to Santa Paradiso snc Margherita Ligure http://www.golfoparadiso.it/php/ind ex.php?lang=eng Day 1: Hike from Camogli , Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio – the famous Ligurian Tigullio - Marine Lines maritime village, as far as www.traghettiportofino.it/en/ San Fruttuoso In addition, there are various boat services leaving from the port of The route first reaches San Genoa (in the Expo-Genoa Rocco , a suburb of Camogli

Aquarium area). GENOVA “facing out onto” Golfo Paradiso and then SAVONA continues on to the Batterie, military structures built during the Second World War to defend the LA SPEZIA Gulf of Genoa. After a full immersion into history, the itinerary follows on as far as Toca IMPERIA and then continues, passing through the aromas of the 46 P I t H

traditions closely PREBUGGIUN c Silene vulagaris (bladder S Pansoti in walnut u G linked to the landscape This is a mixture d campion).

A sauce o r L F surrounding it. of spontaneous P Almost all the plants The itinerary runs herbs typical of used in the prebuggiun Ingredients along the southern Ligurian cooking, are not fit to be eaten for the dough slope, first passing by used in preparing the when fully grown: it is 200 g of white flour Base O and then filling of pasta “delle better to pick them 1 egg water, as needed continuing to Mulino feste di magro” when the plant is still salt, as needed del Gassetta, an (vegetarian). young. for the filling information point and Prebuggiun is a term in Given the different 600 g of prebuggiun museum space with an Ligurian dialect that organoleptic 150 g of fresh ricotta adjoining restaurant cannot be translated characteristics of each 100 g of grated Parmigiano that prepares dishes literally: it probably one, the complex Reggiano cheese 1 egg from the local and derives from the verb compositional balance of extra-virgin olive oil regional cuisine. Here preboggî (in Ligurian the prebuggiun is linked nutmeg, as needed you can taste some dialect), which means to to the search for a good salt, as needed typical dishes and, why pre-boil , in a culinary balance in the flavours, for the walnut sauce not, take part in a sense, therefore a kind of considering that they all 200 g of walnuts cooking laboratory! In “blanching”. have a specific 30 g of grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese the afternoon, you Among the plants used in vegetation aroma: bitter 70 g of extra-virgin olive oil continue on foot to the prebuggiun , we find (radicion ), wild ( gè ), soft part of a loaf of bread Portofino or Santa numerous composites flavourful-neutral dipped in milk Margherita Ligure with yellow flowers such (boraxe ), flavourful- 1 clove of garlic (your choice). as Sonchus oleraceus sweet ( talegua ), and (common sowthistle) and spicy. Reichardia picroides The most common use of FOCACCIA (focaccia with cheese difficult to replicate. (French scorzonera), as the prebuggiun is as a WITH CHEESE from Recco) was Perhaps this is why the well as Borago officinalis filling for fresh pasta, an They say that this “invented”. IGP recognition (borage), Malva sylvestris excellent base for { product was already Focaccia di Recco col continues, thanks to the (common mallow), vegetable minestrone or, } around at the time of Formaggio has now product’s strong Preparation Raphanus raphanistrum simply boiled, used as a Boil the vegetables and drain the third crusade. obtained the important connection to the area, (wild radish), Sanguisorba filling for ravioli, stuffed In ancient times the recognition of the IGP thanks to the manual and them well. Chop them up population of the coastal (Protected Geographical natural way in which the minor (salad burnet), and meatloaf or frittata. roughly and mix them with towns used to flee to Indication) European focacciai (focaccia the ricotta, egg, cheese, a the immediate hinterland label of quality, and the makers) of the area pinch of nutmeg, a teaspoon to seek refuge from the production zone of the stretch the sheets of of oil, and salt. Prepare the raids by the Saracens. famous gastronomic dough, like veils; when pasta and leave it to stand. Legend has it that, speciality only includes you see them you wonder thanks to the availability the towns of Recco, how they manage to Roll it out into a sheet that is of oil, cheese, and flour, Avegno, Camogli, and handle them, with those not too thin and cut out cooking the dough full Sori. big hands, without squares 5 cm each side. Place of cheese on a covered It is a simple and tearing them. Flour, fresh a spoonful of the filling in the slate, this gastronomic healthy product, with cheese, extra-virgin olive middle of each square, fold it product that we now just a few ingredients, oil, water, and salt, in into a triangle by joining the know as Focaccia di far from any type of addition to the expertise edges and turn them upwards Recco col Formaggio sophistication, yet of the master focacciai . to make a boat shape. After searing the walnuts and taking off the skin, using a mortar and pestle carefully crush them together with the garlic, cheese, oil, one teaspoon of lukewarm water and the soft part of the bread. Cook the pasta in salted water for 5 minutes. Serve hot with the walnut sauce on top. 49 Regional Nature Park of Portofino, Christ of the Abyss Regional Nature Park of Portofino, Punta Chiappa marine protected area THE TONNARELLA (TUNA guided into the two Capponadda FISHING TRAP) OF chambers. In the trap at alla ligure CAMOGLI Camogli the fish is not Portofino * Used since 1600 the tuna killed: the so-called fishing trap of Camogli “death chamber” is raised Ingredients is the last of a series of by the fishermen who 2/3 gallette del marinaio LOCATION fixed tuna fishing traps then pick out the fish 80/100 g of tuna in oil Viale Rainusso, 1 along the coast around the (little tunny, frigate 1 boiled egg 16038 S. Margherita promontory of Portofino. tuna, great amberjack, 1 ripe tomato Ligure (GE) The term “tonnarella” Atlantic bonito, and taggiasca olives Tel. +39 0185 289649 derives from the fact that Atlantic horse mackerel ). 2/3 fillets of salted [email protected] it is a system of fishing As testimony to its anchovies www.portofinoamp.it that is similar to the more environmental 1 teaspoon of white wine SEA SURFACE AREA widely known tuna fishing sustainability, the entire vinegar 346.00 ha traps, though simpler and fishing plant is located capers MUNICIPALITIES smaller: it features two within the Marine onion Camogli, Portofino, chambers and a barrier Protected Area and, since oregano Santa Margherita Ligure net for catching “passing” 2011, it has been parsley fish. The net intercepts protected by the Slow extra-virgin olive oil from the fish who is then Food Movement. Riviera Ligure salt, as needed { HOW TO GET THERE The Marine the sea. By car } Protected Area of Along the southern A12 Genova – Livorno, toll booths Portofino extends front, there are Preparation of: Recco, Rapallo, Chiavari Break up the gallette SS 1 Aurelia around the submerged cliffs By train promontory of the which rapidly drop and dampen them with Genova-La Spezia line, stations of: same name. down reaching water and some vinegar Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, The coast appears in great depths and so that they take on a Rapallo, Zoagli, Chiavari consistency halfway all its charm: creating a wealth By bus between spongy and You can get to the municipalities of evocative glimpses of micro-habitats crunchy. the Park by the bus services of and small inlets with rarely found Tigullio Trasporti S.p.a. Place the gallette in a By sea vegetation brushing in the Mediterranean. ceramic container and an ancient method. Trasporti Marittimi Turistici Golfo GALLETTE DEL add the tomato Paradiso snc MARINAIO (SAILOR’S The gallette were chopped up into pieces, http://www.golfoparadiso.it/php/inde CRACKERS) used by sailors and x.php?lang=eng the onion sliced up, the Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio – The galletta is a thin fishermen who would anchovies with the Tigullio - Marine Lines focaccia that is dry and bring them with bones taken out www.traghettiportofino.it/en/ compact, perfect for them on their long and cut into small In addition, there are various boat minestra, soups, and voyages out to sea; pieces, the tuna services leaving from the port of Genoa (in the Expo-Genoa capponadda (seafood indeed, their distinctive crumbled up, the feature is that capers, and the olives. Aquarium area). GENOVA salad). Dry and crumbly (its they keep for a long Mix it all together and

SAVONA base ingredients are time. dress with the water, flour, and salt), extra-virgin olive oil, you can happily munch adjust the salt, and add on some at any the oregano. LA SPEZIA time of the day. Place it all on a plate They are made and garnish with the boiled egg cut up as by the bakers of

t you wish. P c I Camogli who use u

IMPERIA H d S a traditional o G r A P recipe following L

52 F 53 regional Nature park old beech forests, and RECOMMENDED Goat’s milk is excellent rocky peaks that are ITINERARY for making pure cheeses Aveto almost inaccessible. The pastures and cheese (caprini), as tomini or The Park’s hiking route formaggette , to be patrimony is comprised of The Park of Aveto hosts eaten fresh or mature. LOCATION a dense network of paths numerous sheep and The high pastures on the Via Marrè, 75/A that are well signposted goat and cattle mountains of the Aveto – 16041 (GE) Tel. +39 0185 340311 and can be followed on breeders , which have Valley enable, above all, Visitor Centre in the Aveto Valley foot, horseback, or been present in these the breeding of cattle Via Roma, 47 – 16048 (GE) mountain bikes (and in Apennines for centuries with summer grazing Tel. +39 0185 870171 winter with snowshoes or and still apply basically and winter spent in the The following can be found at the offices: Environmental Education Centre skis). By following these the same methods today stable, thanks to the ([email protected] ) – paths you can cross the as in the past. local production of hay. Information Point – Environmental entire Park, discovering its Especially on the There is the hugely hiking accompaniment service – most evocative corners. southern slopes of the prestigious presence of Thematic library Tel. +39 0185 343370 But the Park is not only massive Mount Aiona , in a local rustic breed that [email protected] about nature: we can Valle Sturla, we find the has been selected for www.parcoaveto.it discover the ancient work last alpine huts for centuries, mucca SURFACE AREA of man comprising cattle grazing, which still cabannina , at risk of 3018 hectares amazing rural villages, have a rational and extinction, and now also MUNICIPALITIES religious buildings that integral management protected by the Slow Borzonasca, , Ne, Rezzoaglio, testify an ancient work of system that is extremely Food Movement. This Santo Stefano d’Aveto evangelising or the ancient and the only one breed provides milk that devotion of the mountain of its kind in the region. is rich in the aromas of HOW TO GET THERE The notable wealth of In the space of just a few dwellers, terraced strips, Meanwhile, in the the fodder of the By car flora and fauna together kilometres, the Park ice-houses, and “barchi” nearby pastures and also valley’s pastures. The A12 Genova – Livorno (exit at Chiavari or ) with a variety of rocks displays a landscape that is (traditional hay barracks, in the Graveglia Valley milk is used to make Main roads: S.P. 586 of Val and minerals that are varied both due to its with a movable roof). there are still sheep and cheese: San Stè and U d’Aveto; S.P. 26 of Val Graveglia; unique in Liguria, make natural aspects and its There are numerous typical goat herds , which are Cabanin , with the latter S.P. 26 bis of Passo del Bocco; S.P. the Park of Aveto a agricultural and forest products which qualify the heirs of a thousand- made solely with 654 of Val di Nure; S.P. 56 of Barbagelata; fascinating destination, features, with a stretch of area from a gastronomic year-old breeding Cabannina milk. We must S.P. 23 of Scoglina unmissable for nature marine environment with point of view and practice of the not forget the quagliata, By train lovers, and also for those olive groves, vineyards, and transform a journey to the Mediterranean the excellent ricotte, Genova – Pisa line (Chiavari or who want to come into vegetable gardens. This is Park into an extraordinary and Sarassu , a type of Lavagna train stations) mountains. By bus contact with somewhere followed by the area of the route “from nature to the Tigullio public transport made to fit man and chestnuts, the table”, discovering all those (freephone number 800014808 – nature, different to the mountainous stretch typical products, +39 185 3731); frenetic city life. characterised by meadows, Public Transport Company harvested, selected, or of Parma and its Province (TEP) handed down by the (freephone number 800977966 – mountain dwellers through Tel. +39 0521 2141) the generations, which the Park of Aveto still conserves and offers, and

GENOVA which identify it as a Park “for all tastes” . SAVONA The rural hospitality of the Park offers a vast choice of agritourisms, B&B, holiday homes, hotels, LA SPEZIA alpine huts and shelters, in addition to the new Ospitalità Diffusa accommodation network IMPERIA (www.unamontagnadiaccogl ienza.it ). 54 55 P I t H

ricotta made with PATATA c average, but decreases in

S Baciocca u G matured whey that is QUARANTINA d heavy lands or humid areas. A o r truly flavoursome. (RAPIDLY L The white patata quarantina This is a quiche whose flavour is F P To taste these cheeses, DEVELOPING is suited for all usages in enriched by cooking it under a you can follow a route by POTATOES) cooking. It is traditionally testo (a traditional cooking plate), traditionally over a layer car which starts from Between the 19th and 20th used in dishes such as of chestnut leaves. Perlezzi in centuries, potatoes helped in focaccia and cakes, gnocchi, the Sturla Valley, where resolving the problems of and “ prebugiun ”, the farmer’s you can try the caprini at hunger that cyclically hit the single-course meal based on the “U Pastine” rural world, along with the potatoes and lacinato kale, agricultural enterprise, chestnuts from these valleys. and “ baciocca ”, a delicious and then go back up the Nowadays, they are a vital quiche. For some years now entire valley towards the side dish on our tables and a the Park of Aveto has been { pass of Forcella and basic ingredient for the area’s collaborating with the Ingredients } following on through the cuisine, with traditional “Quarantina Consortium” (an 1 kg of patate quarantine Aveto Valley, stopping recipes unearthed by the association which promotes 2 onions off at the “Petramartina” more attentive restaurants. family-run agriculture and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, agricultural enterprise in The cultivation of certain the rural revival of the as needed 1 slice of lard Scabbiamara, or at Mileto varieties typical of the local Genoese mountains – milk, flour or Parazzuolo, where you “Val d’Aveto” dairy just For visits or purchases Apennines ensures the www.quarantina.it ) to set up extra-virgin olive oil can find other family-run cannot be missed. contact the above- typical nature of the dish and the exhibition Patate dal salt, as needed dairies which produce In Santo Stefano d’Aveto mentioned enterprises in adds an organoleptic value to Mondo , an exposition of pepper, as needed cabannina cheese. you can visit and purchase advance. Contact details the cuisine of the Park of approximately three hundred In the main town of products at the same and telephone numbers are Aveto. The patata quarantina different varieties of potato Preparation Rezzoaglio you will also family-run dairies that available on the website is the top variety of potato in from many countries, which Slice the potatoes thinly find the Park’s Visitors produce the famous cheese http://www.parcoaveto.it/E Liguria and is considered the is held every year during the and place them in a Centre and a visit to the of Santo Stefano d’Aveto . prodotti.php most famous, the oldest, and last week of September at colander with salt for around 15 minutes. Slice the tastiest among the local the Park’s Visitors Centre at the onions finely and place varieties. It is produced in the Rezzoaglio. With the support them in a bowl with water entire area of the Genoese of the Park, the Consortium and table salt. Mince the hinterland: the potato has a also organised a conservation lard. Rinse the onions, drain round to round-oval shape, field at a local agricultural them, and fry in some oil on the skin is smooth and yellow, enterprise for the a low heat. Turn off the and the inside is white. reproduction of the varieties heat and add the minced It is a semi-early variety (and on exhibit coming from all lard. In a bowl add the the term “quarantina” or over the world. onions and lard to the “rapidly developing” probably This is the only field of its potatoes and flavour with underlines its early kind in Italy and can be the grated Parmigiano harvesting), and its visited during the Reggiano, some flour and conservation qualities are summer period milk, and mix it all together average. The yield is also (Tel. +39 0185 343370). well. Place a sheet of dough made with flour and water on a wooden platter and THE FOREST has privileged the (including the famous place the mixture on top. SUPPLY CHAIN AND short supply chain: “chair of Chiavari”), Heat the testo in a wood- THE FORESTRY the materials while the scraps are burning oven for ECO-MUSEUM gathered from the virtuously used as approximately 20-30 The area of the Park selection cutting of combustible biomass. minutes. Carefully slide the of Aveto has a high conifers aiming With the aim of dough from the platter level of forest deciduous high forest conserving and onto the chestnut leaves, structure are used for displaying the ancient coverage, one of the cover with the testo, and highest in Italy. works or furniture and recent testimonies The forests are (such as the of the local uses of the cook for roughly 30 containers of “ecological” furniture forest’s resources, the minutes. There is also a biodiversity. For the for the Park’s Park set up a Forestry “vegetarian” version purposes of sustainable shelters) and top class Museum at Lago delle without lard which is just management, the Park craftsmanship Lame . as tasty. 56 57 Regional Nature Park of Aveto National park Cinque Terre

LOCATION Via Discovolo snc c/o Stazione Manarola, 25 19017 Riomaggiore (SP) Tel. +39 0187 762600 [email protected] http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/ ?id_lingue=2 SURFACE AREA 3854 hectares MUNICIPALITIES Levanto, Monterosso, Riomaggiore, Vernazza, La Spezia

HOW TO GET THERE The National Park of materials left by man. RECOMMENDED By car Cinque Terre, a The National Park of ITINERARY From the A12 motorway, in the Genova – La Spezia section, you UNESCO World Cinque Terre is Sciacchetrail can exit at the toll booth of Heritage Site, is a naturally also a great The name Sciacchetrail is Carrodano to reach Levanto and naturalistic oasis, habitat for various the combination of the then Monterosso, Vernazza, and which over time has species of fauna who words Sciacchetrà and Corniglia. In the same way, by exiting at the toll booth of maintained intact its find the perfect Trail : the dessert wine , you can reach characteristics of conditions here to live produced here and a walk Monterosso, Vernazza, and uncontaminated and reproduce. through nature. Corniglia. nature. Sciacchetrail is a trail Coming from La Spezia, you can take the Litoranea coastal road and The landscape, challenge which unites then easily reach Riomaggiore and formed of rocks with the communities and it Manarola. A narrow, tortuous road, different origins and exalts the area and the known as “strada dei Santuari”, ages, is distinguished connects the five villages. hard work required in the By train by the particular cultivation of the land. It The trains are particularly frequent, gradient and the lack is held every year in especially during the summer, and of flat sections. spring. the local trains stop at all the stations of the Cinque Terre: The high and jagged Beautiful and in some Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, coast is linear, with sections still unexplored, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare. very little inlets and the trail route is not for The end of the line is La Spezia, on promontories, carved everyone, both due to the Pisa-Genova line, where all the long-distance trains stop. out by the sea in the technical aspects: a By sea pleasant and circuit that starts and In spring and summer there are suggestive caves. ends at Monterosso al daily services by sea to La Spezia, The few beaches, Mare , uniting the five , and Porto Venere. LA SPEZIA Monterosso, Vernazza, Manarola, both with sand and villages and respective and Riomaggiore are also serviced, pebbles, are the result sanctuaries via 47 km of during the day, by internal of the debris left by dirt tracks climbing more navigation lines, with Monterosso the waterways, as the last stop. than 3000 m; and also http://www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti landslides, or because the organisers, .it/home.asp?lang=eng accumulations of the Park of Cinque Terre 60 P I t H

that the c S Farinata (chickpea u G prestigious wine d

A pancake) o r L

has become the F P emblem par Ingredients excellance of 1 l of water Cinque Terre. between 350 and 450 g of It has a fruity, floral aroma , chickpea flour 50 g of wheat flour which recalls the essences 10 g of salt of the Mediterranean extra-virgin olive oil scrub: tones of dried fruits, pepper, to taste apricot jam, yellow peach, vanilla, chestnut honey, and spices. Its colour is warm and intense: from golden SCIACCHETRÀ yellow to amber, tending Sciacchetrà is a dessert towards topaz. It has a { wine, sweet and smooth , sweet flavour that is never } produced in the Cinque sickening, warm, with a Preparation Terre area from the grapes good body, velvety and Mix the two flours together of the Bosco , Albarola , and suave, well-balanced, and and dilute with salted water Vermentino vines. with a pleasant and very Leave to stand for at least While the origin of the light tannic quality. three hours at room name is enveloped in With an average yield of 25 temperature. mystery - some say it l by q of grapes – they are Remove the foam formed derives from the Semitic left to dry out in the sun on the surface with a ladle. term shekar which was until November and are Bring the mixture to the and the Local Tourism along the competition network of paths in used in Palestine 3,000 then sorted by hand to right density by adding System, decided to only route at any time of the Cinque Terre. years ago to define select only the best – and more salted water make 200 bibs available year, as special signposts Sciacchetrail is not fermented drinks, whereas an extremely high quality and then add around half to avoid creating too will be installed. only a competition, but others claim it comes guaranteed by its DOC a glass of oil. much pressure. Sciacchetrail is the event is also a big festival In the meantime heat the from the verb in local label (DOC since 1973 like For all those who will chosen by the Park to dedicated to the wine- oven at 220°C at least. dialect sciacàa , or “to the dry type), Sciacchetrà is not be able to take part inaugurate the new makers of Cinque Terre Grease a pan (possibly in squash”, used in this case a niche product that can in the first edition, vertical signposting and their extraordinary tinned copper) with plenty to indicate the squashing develop for ten, twenty, there will be the system which will work to protect the of oil, then pour in the of the grapes - it is certain and even thirty years. opportunity to travel distinguish the entire terraced landscape . liquid already mixed, checking that the oil has mixed in evenly. Bake for approximately 15- 20 minutes. When cooked turn on the grill to make the surface turn golden. Take care that the pan is always perfectly flat, otherwise the farinata will be thicker on one side and thinner on the other. And in order to avoid uneven cooking, you also have to rotate the pan gradually as the surface is turning golden. When you take it out of the oven, sprinkle with a little ground pepper to taste.

63 marine protected area level, the sea floor , and the French Anchovies becomes mixed: the coast near Toulon. marinated in Cinque Terre muddy area, probably due For this reason, in certain lemon to the larger amount of periods of the year, the fine sediment, is waters off the Protected Ingredients LOCATION populated by colonies of Marine Area of Cinque fresh anchovies Via Discovolo sns Leptogorgia sarmentosa, Terre are crossed by 1 clove of garlic c/o Stazione Manarola, 26 the juice of one lemon 19017 Riomaggiore (SP) while the rocky sections numerous fin whales, are covered in bottlenose dolphins, and extra-virgin olive oil Tel. +39 0187 762600 1 bunch of parsley, chopped [email protected] Paramuricea clavata. In groups of common oregano, as needed www.parconazionale5terre.it/area- this area you can often dolphins. salt, as needed marina-protetta-cinque-terre.asp?id_ lingue find the broad sea fan The Protected Marine pepper, as needed SEA SURFACE AREA (Eunicella verrucosa) Area plays a vital role in 4591 hectares which is not very common managing the coastal MUNICIPALITIES in the Mediterranean. environment and, even Levanto, Monterosso al Mare, Capo Montenero mainly though the Protected Riomaggiore, Vernazza hosts populations of hard Marine Area of Cinque sublayers, including Terre was only set up formations of coral with recently, some positive { sea fans of yellow-orange effects can already be } Leptogorgia sarmentosa seen, especially with with wide branches of up regard to the species of Preparation to 40 cm. The sea of non-migratory and quality Clean the anchovies, also Cinque Terre is included in fish, such as the increase taking out the bones, HOW TO GET THERE Bordered to the west by rocks covered in colonies the International area in numbers and size of and open them like a By car Punta Mesco and to the of yellow cluster anemone called the “ Sea Cetacean brown meagre (Sciaena book. Place them on a From the A12 motorway, on the east by Punta Pineda just (Parazoanthus axinellae) Sanctuary ” including the umbra) and dusky grouper tray with high edges and Genova – La Spezia section, you place under running can exit at the toll booth of beyond Capo Montenero, and colonies of Tuscan coast, northern (Epinephelus marginatus). water (not too strong) Carrodano to reach Levanto and the marine reserve of Paramuricea clavata for around half an hour. then Monterosso, Vernazza, and Cinque Terre almost forms which, at greater depths, Corniglia. In the same way, by The fish will turn a lighter a gulf, closed at the land have a mixed red and THE SALTED ANCHOVIES Monterosso al Mare. Known exiting at the toll booth of colour, while remaining OF MONTEROSSO as pan du ma , the anchovies Brugnato, you can reach side by a coast plummeting yellow colour. compact. Monterosso, Vernazza, and A traditional dish of Cinque into the sea. At 40 metres below sea are fished using the Dry them and place Corniglia. At Punta Mesco and Capo Terre, the anchovies are traditional method of light Coming from La Spezia, you can them on another tray, take the Litoranea coastal road and Montenero, the rocky processed according to the attractors and with cianciolo basting them with a few then easily reach Riomaggiore and coast sinks down to 30 m ancient recipe of nets and are processed by drops of lemon. Manarola. A narrow, tortuous road, in depth and along these hand over two to three days. Place them in a cool known as “strada dei Santuari”, cliffs you can admire really The careful placing of the connects the five villages. place for roughly an By train diverse and colourful fish in layers, suitable hour. The trains are particularly frequent, underwater environments pressing, and accurate Drain them, if necessary, especially during the summer, and and, unusually for the monitoring of the quantity and lay them out on a the local trains stop at all the serving tray. stations of the Cinque Terre: Mediterranean, even at just and quality of the brine Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, 15/20 m in depth you can make the anchovies firm Sprinkle them with Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare. see magnificent fans of and tasty , also guaranteeing parsley and oregano and The end of the line is La Spezia, on Paramuricea clavata and their perfect conservation. add salt and pepper to the Pisa-Genova line, where all the other sciophyte species The product maintains all taste. long-distance trains stop. Finally, drizzle with some By sea that usually live at greater the aroma and flavour of extra-virgin olive oil. In spring and summer there are depths. the fish when it was freshly daily services by sea to La Spezia, At Punta Mesco the rocky caught. We recommend Lerici, and Porto Venere. LA SPEZIA Monterosso, Vernazza, Manarola, wall falls steeply, almost trying it with oil, oregano, and Riomaggiore are also serviced, vertically, down below the and garlic for an during the day, by internal surface of the sea for exceptional t navigation lines, with Monterosso P c around 20 m where appetizer, but it I u

as the last stop. H d we find the sea bed is also excellent as S http://www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti o G r A .it/home.asp?lang=eng characterised by scattered a second course. P L

64 F 65 P I t H

MUSSELS AND OYSTERS to place bundles c Stuffed mussels S

regional and marine protected u G Visitors are always curious of of mastic tree on d A o r the pole-like structures which the sea bed in the L Ingredients for 6 people F area Porto Venere P can be glimpsed here and gulf in order to 50 large mussels there in the stretch of sea catch the larvae 2 Kg small mussels LOCATION that extends towards the of the passing Ostreaedulis , 4 eggs 1 soaked bread roll Municipality of Porto overlooking island of thus creating oyster- Venere 100 g of Parmigiano Reggiano Via Garibaldi, 9 . These are the “ sea breeding, which developed cheese 19025 Porto Venere (SP) vines ” which for over a in parallel with mussel- 200 g of minced mortadella Tel. +39 0187 794823 century have been supporting breeding at least until 80 g tuna [email protected] the nurseries of mussels and, halfway through the last garlic http://www.parconaturaleportovenere.it/?i parsley d_lingue=2&id_prodotto=&id_galleria=&ti for the past few years, of century, when oysters marjoram tolo_galleria= oysters as well. Mussels are suffered the crushing extra-virgin olive oil SURFACE AREA bivalve molluscs that belong supremacy of the numbers dry white wine 274 hectares in the Nature Park and 132 to the Heterodonta group and achieved in mussel- tomatoes skinned and pureed hectares in the Marine Protected Area those bred in Porto Venere breeding. Recently salt, as needed of the Regional Nature Park of Porto belong to the species mytilus attention has been placed pepper, as needed Venere galloprovincialis. The first on oysters once more, with MUNICIPALITY Porto Venere oyster nursery dates to 1890, the intention of giving when the biologist Carrazzi, mussel-breeders the chance together with Emanuele to branch out with another Albano from Taranto, began product, i.e. oysters. { } Preparation HOW TO GET THERE The Regional Nature nature, history has also been RECOMMENDED downhill, with a total height Meticulously clean the mussels By car difference of 198 metres, Park of Porto Venere present here since ITINERARY to be stuffed. Open them raw A12 motorway Genova-Livorno to be tackled with the right A15 motorway La Spezia-Parma offers a unique landscape prehistoric times, with the Circumnavigation of the with a knife, break the “nerve”, Exit at La Spezia, and then take the with its high coasts , Grotta dei Colombi cave , up island of Palmaria equipment. and leave them to drain in a provincial road to Porto Venere (15 km) caves , and vegetation to the recent past when From Terrizzo , which you The path starts on a dirt container. Open the small By train which in all seasons Marconi used to experiment can get to via the public track which softly ascends Services from Genoa, Parma, and Pisa: mussels with steam: half will be La Spezia Centrale station permeates the his innovative studies in front boat service from Porto to altitude, running along used in the filling and the other then A.T.C. bus, line 11/P to Porto environment with of the village. It is a UNESCO Venere and La Spezia , you the part of the island facing half will go into the sauce. Venere mutating tones of colour. World Heritage Site. can access the route that the and Prepare the filling by adding Freephone number 800 The element behind weaves along the island of which enables you to see the bread, mortadella, tuna, http://www.atcesercizio.it/index.php/en/ By bus every detail, harmonising Palmaria . The route the Fortress Umberto I , the minced mussels, the From the car park in Cavo there is a everything, is the sea. At includes sections of path , and the Parmigiano Reggiano, and the shuttle service as follows: times it is calm and with various levels of numerous small beaches of herbs to the eggs. Fill the – in the months of March, April, May, crystal clear, reflecting, difficulty, going uphill and Cala della Fornace . mussels, closing them and June, and September taking care not to break the Saturday from 2:00 pm to 8:00 pm like an enchanted mirror, Sunday and public holidays from 10:00 the multi-coloured rocks valves. Prepare the sauce in a am to 8:00 pm and flying seagulls; and large, low pan, by frying in the – in the months of July and August extra-virgin olive oil the sometimes it is rough every day from 10:00 am to 8:00 pm ground garlic and parsley with and almost angry, roaring Saturday, Sunday and public holidays the remaining mussels from 10:00 am to midnight and shattering against chopped up roughly. Add some (bus every 15 minutes) the rock with the church By sea wine, and then the tomatoes La Spezia, Lerici, Cinque Terre, Tigullio, of San Pietro located at and half a glass of the water Versilia the top. The Park is released from the mussels Tel. +39 0187 732987 crowned by the opened raw. Do not add salt. http://www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it/h archipelago with the Carefully lay down the stuffed ome.asp?lang=eng LA SPEZIA Trasporto Pubblico Isola Palmaria three islands , Palmaria , mussels into the pan, taking (Public Transportation Palmaria Island) , and , which care that they do not open, Consorzio Barcaioli Porto Venere challenge the blue sea in and leave them to cook on a Service a turbine of aromas and low heat for approximately half Tel. +39 347 8024817 gazes towards infinity. an hour and, in any case, until But the Park is not just the sauce is reduced. 66 67 Regional Nature Park and Marine Protected Area Regional Nature Park and Marine Protected Area of Portovenere, the church of San Pietro of Portovenere, the island of Tino regional Nature park Montemarcell o-Magra-vara

LOCATION Via Paci, 2 19038 Sarzana (SP) Tel. +39 0187 691071 [email protected] http://parco.parcomagra.it/index.php SURFACE AREA 3932 hectares, of which 1206 hectares “Adjoining Special Area” MUNICIPALITIES , Arcola, , , Borghetto Vara, Brugnato, Calice al Cornoviglio, Carro, Carrodano, Follo, Lerici, Pignone, Riccò del Golfo di Spezia, Rocchetta Vara, Santo Stefano Magra, Sarzana, Sesta Godano, Vezzano

HOW TO GET THERE The river area includes the groves, hamlets of great By car stretch of the River Magra historical and naturalistic A12 motorway Genova – Livorno (toll booths at Carrodano, Brugnato, which runs through Liguria interest, rocks and karst areas, Santo Stefano Magra, and Sarzana) and comes out along the with caves and sinkholes. The Parma – La Spezia motorway (toll River Vara , its main River Vara dominates and booths at Santo Stefano Magra, tributary, as far as the designs the valley, wedged in rural culture. The Vara outside the hamlet along the grassy Apennine slopes, and Sarzana) the SP6, you enter into an creating a suggestive SS1 Aurelia; SS62 della Cisa bridge of Santa between rocky meanders and Valley is crossed over by By train Margherita . Following the widening in small farmed many paths which enable imposing pine forest, contrast. The pine forest is Pisa - Genova line, Sarzana and La two rivers, the protected plains. In this enchanted place, you to discover considered one of the most linked to Alta Via dei Monti Spezia stations; Parma – La Spezia area forms a stretch which, there are many agritourism uncontaminated beautiful of the Ligurian Liguri by various paths and line, Santo Stefano Magra station By bus even though it reaches and agricultural enterprises, environments. One of Apennines, with timber mule tracks (the old Vie del ATC LA Spezia 1000 m wide in some parts, where you can taste dishes these paths starts from the trees extending for various Sale - salt routes) suited for By sea is generally rather narrow. from the local tradition and 16th century hamlet hectares. The green, almost walks through the green Lerici tourist port, dock along the The hilly area is found in Suvero , a suburb of emerald, wood of conifers countryside or for trekking River Magra Ferries from La Spezia to Lerici the section of the Park Rocchetta Vara, dominated stands out strongly against or mountain biking. where the promontory of by a castle which was a Caprione is which, from defensive structure and Arcola , continues towards then a residence of the the sea as far as Punta . Bianca with rugged and In front of the castle, lies rocky forms: on one side the church of San Giovanni the Gulf of La Spezia and Battista which conserves the open sea, on the other the low-relief in white the mouth of the River marble called The Virgin with Magra , the plain of Luni the Child surrounded by and the Apuan Alps LA SPEZIA Angels playing Music dating permanently veined with to the end of the 15th white. The Vara Valley is century. Continuing characterised by hills with towards the Casoni pass , woods of century-old which towers over 1000 chestnut trees, olive metres above sea level, just 70 P I t H

its past as a Roman camp, while EXTRA-VIRGIN c managed to conserve a S Stamped corzetti u G traces of the wall are still visible OLIVE OIL OF d unique habitat,

A pasta (corzétti o r L

running along Via delle Mura as RIVIERA DI F P extraordinarily rich in stanpæ or corzetti far as the old gate. From LEVANTE biodiversity that would del Levante) Montemarcello you can enjoy a The Park of otherwise be jeopardised wonderful panorama of Golf of Montemarcello-Magra- by external sources. This pasta is “stamped” Poets and its islands. From the Vara still today The local olive cultivar because the decoration of hamlet, you continue along path conserves vast terraced used in making the oil is these small medallion-shaped no. 433 which runs halfway areas where people still the Razzola olive. Its discs of pasta is stamped using a wooden stamp called along the coast, crossing practice the traditional structure is similar to the corzetto. This decorates the through Mediterranean scrub, manual harvesting of Taggiasca olive plant, but pasts in order to “get it ready” with numerous aromatic olives . Together with the the branches are less to hold the sauce better. essences, until it reaches fact that oil is only drooping. The leaves are The word corzetto indicates Zanego , from which you extracted with medium sized. The fruit is both the wooden stamp (pear, apple, beech, or maple wood) descend towards Tellaro. mechanical and physical larger and longer than the and the engraved pasta. Following along path no. 3 processes, this creates Taggiasca olive, black in toward Lerici, you come to the top quality oil that colour, which ripens late ruins of the hamlet Portesone . maintains the unique and progressively, very Lying 138 metres above sea original characteristics rich in oil with a yield of level, this ancient agricultural of the fruit. Thanks to 24.4%. The plant does not and pastoral village has a few the conservation and resist well to low RECOMMENDED ITINERARY Bocca di Magra . From the car dilapidated houses suffocated development of temperatures, but is From the mouth of the River park you climb up towards the by the dense vegetation. In the traditional olive constant in its { Magra to Lerici monastery of Santa Croce del 16th century, the plague cultivation, the Park has production. } This magnificent crossing, one Corvo (1176) whose ancient seriously hit the inhabitants of of the classic examples of the chapel conserves the Holy this hamlet and the survivors Ingredients promontory of Caprione, links Cross. Past this monastery, you fled to Barbazzano , another white wheat flour from Suvero extra-virgin olive oil the village located at the mouth follow a mule track until the abandoned village that you can grated cheese of the River Magra to the tarmacked road where you reach by following the path that nutmeg splendid hamlet of Lerici. Along reach the path which weaves continues on flat ground at 115 water, as needed the route, you come across the towards the village of metres above sea level. This historic centre Montemarcello, Montemarcello, crossing hamlet was owned by the bishop Preparation the Park’s Botanical Garden , through Mediterranean scrub of Luni and the small two-storey Mix all the ingredients and the two abandoned passes in some sections, with houses can still be seen. They are together, adding the water at Portesone and Barbazzano. numerous aromatic essences now used as shelter for small a little at a time, until you Worth noting are the ancient and spectacular blossomings livestock or to store farming get a soft, even dough. “cavanei”, constructions in dry (broom, orchids, cistus, equipment. The church and Roll the dough out into a stone which recall the Sardinian strawberry trees, euphorbia, defensive walls with the guard sheet and cut into circles. Cook in boiling salted water megalithic towers “nuraghe”, thyme, helichrysum, rosemary, tower have disappeared over for just a few minutes. whose function is not clear. etc.), then the evergreen oaks time. The plague led to the Once drained, add your and abandoned cultivations. abandonment of the village and Indicated by the signpost no. 3 preferred sauce. The village streets, which cross and Alta Via del Golfo (AVG), the foundation of Tellaro and The traditional sauce for the path starts and finishes at at right angles, still today recall Fiascherino. corzetti is made with minced poultry, onion, celery, and bay leaves, HONEY the 1980s. botanical varieties or by mixing butter with In the area of Calice al The environment played and their blossomings pine nuts, marjoram or Cornoviglio , there is an important role in the are well staggered over sage, and cheese. an ancient link development of the season, enabling a However, thanks to their between the honey , the beekeeping in Calice. very diverse harvest. decorations, they hold the land, and the culture, Indeed this is an In this way, at least six sauce even more; but the discovery of uncontaminated land types of honey are therefore, they go that is perfect for produced, with different beekeeping activity, well with pesto or almost entirely producing high quality colours, flavours, abandoned during the and perfectly biological and organoleptic mushroom sauce. previous years, dates to honey. There are many characteristics. 72 73 Alta via urban centres and villages in grazing ground, woods of markets were once held to the valley floor by a network larch trees and rocky crests trade products. It is not dei Monti Liguri of connecting paths. It is topped with snow, giving uncommon to walk through also included in the shelter to endemic flora nuclei of houses that were European network of hiking which testifies the Ice Age once inhabited, linked to LOCATION trails that link the environments. Following livestock grazing, ice houses c/o Camera di Mediterranean to Central along the ridge, you cross for gathering snow as ice Commercio di Genova Via Garibaldi, 4 (stanza 8) Europe. The route crosses through forests of century- reserves during the summer, 16124 Genoa through various natural year-old beech trees and small huts or charcoal Tel. +39 010 24852200 environments with top chestnuts , a tree used over burners. The Alta Via dei Mobile +39 346 6873556 landscape value . Depending time by man as a source of Monti Liguri is a long path, [email protected] www.altaviadeimontiliguri.it/portale/e on the altitude, the food. In many sections, the perfect for long hikes, but it n/homepage.wp exposure of the slopes, and trail comes to old paved can also be followed just LENGTH the geological paths , remains of mule over sections that only take 440 km of the main route, over 80 conformation, you switch tracks , and the salt routes , a few days, thanks to the linking paths – maintained by the from a Mediterranean Medieval stone bridges numerous roads and AVML Association – from environment to an Alpine that climbed up the slopes crossings that meet the trail, Ventimiglia to La Spezia setting, with high-lying and reached the ridge or exploiting the numerous meadows, still used today as crossings, places where connecting paths.

PROTECTED AREAS OF THE The Alta Via dei Monti enables you to discover ALTA VIA Liguri is a hiking trail that uncontaminated parts of Regional Park of the Ligurian Alps, covers approximately 440 Liguria . Its route goes along Regional Park of Piana Crixia *, Regional Park of Bric Tana *, Regional km from west to east along the ancient communicating Nature Reserve of Adelasia, Regional the Ligurian ridge. roads used in bygone times Park of Beigua, Urban Park of Mura, It is a panoramic route that for trading, traces of old Regional Park of Antola**, Regional invites hikers and tourists mule tracks which climbed Park of Portofino**, Regional Park of Aveto, Regional Nature Park of to get to know Liguria from up the Ligurian ridge from Montemarcello – Magra – Vara on high, leaving their gaze the sea and then descended wander over the blue sky as towards the Po Valley. **The Park is linked to the Alta Via through the Bormida Natura (BN) itinerary far as the horizon, blurring The route is divided into 43 **The Park is connected to Alta Via with the sea. The Alta Via stages , linked to the main through Via del Mare (VM) RECOMMENDED ITINERARY Among eagles and whales (from Calizzano to Verzi) You mainly walk along forest

GENOVA roads, along the spine of the woods. From Calizzano , you

SAVONA take the road for Colle di Melogno , then turn right for the Sanctuary of Madonna della Grazie . The path then LA SPEZIA climbs up the spine of the woods, entering into the beech woods, and then arrives at Fonte della IMPERIA Greppia , where you find the Casa Rifugio del Corpo Forestale dello Stato (state 74 P I t H

forestry shelter) at 1174 THE CHESTNUT c and more consistent fruit. S Castagnaccio u G metres above sea level. You TREE d Therefore, they grafted the

A (chestnut flour o r L

continue along the Alta Via The chestnut tree’s F P wild trees. From then on, the cake) dei Monti Liguri towards the link with the cultivation of chestnut trees wooded Conca dei populations of the became widespread up to the On feast days, chestnut Carbonari ; here in times past hinterland was very strong in start of the 19th century. The flour was used to make the charcoal-burners used to the past, to the point that it cultivation of the chestnut was castagnaccio , a typical and prepare conical stacks of was known as the arbu , or tree, so popular, that in the Stura famous dessert with an unmistakeable aroma that wood, covered in soil that par excellance. In his book Valley the word erburu (tree) cheered up the month of they lit on the inside and left Pomona Italiana , Gallesio cites means chestnut tree. During November and other periods to burn slowly in order to two varieties of chestnut tree the time of Napoleon, three- as well. obtain carbon. Once you get that are distinguished in the quarters of the cultivated land to Giogo di Giustenice (1143 Ligurian Apennines, Gabbiana of the as it Ingredients metres above sea level), you and Ciria . Again thanks to was then, were used for 300 g of chestnut flour 50 g of pine nuts can descend to the Pian delle Gallesio, we learn that the chestnuts and the cultivation 100 g of raisins Bosse refuge at 841 metres, market for these varieties of area of this tree even included fennel seeds owned by the CAI (Italian chestnuts was even the hill of , now a extra-virgin olive oil Alpine Club) of Loano, or you international, with exportation residential area of Genoa just a salt, as needed can reach the panoramic to Marseille and Barcelona. few hundred metres from the peak of Mount Carmo , which They currently have a regional sea, where, up the end of the offers a wonderful view over and inter-regional market, 19th century, there were the coast and the Ligurian selling them as dried chestnuts houses with shingle roofs : mountains. If you take the and chestnut flour. The tree slates in chestnut wood. full red triangle path, in 1 hour has an average strength and a Perfect for making flour, the { and 15 minutes you get to good yield. The fruit is oval in chestnuts are dried in } the shelter. To descend to shape and its marking is characteristic seccherecci , Verzi , follow the path marked medium to small. The skin, or which were genuine “oven- Preparation with two full red squares , pericarp, is a dark brown huts” where the chestnuts Dilute flour in a terrine which alternates in sections colour and is very thin, were placed on wooden grates and add the water between a path in the woods whereas the inner flesh is a and dried slowly at a low heat needed to make a batter. and mule tracks through very pronounced greyish white for approximately 40 days. Add salt and pour into a well-greased tin. Sprinkle meadows and vegetable colour and is soft, buttery, and Once they had reached the the raisins, previously gardens which descend subtle. right level of humidity, they softened in lukewarm towards the coast. The path The chestnut tree probably are cleaned and ground to water, onto the mixture, passes alongside a “hut”, a grew spontaneously in these make flour (from Atlante along with the pine nuts, small circular stone building, woods, but in the Middle Ages Regionale dei prodotti and fennel seeds. Baste used as a shelter by farmers. people wanted to obtain larger tradizionali , Liguria Region). with oil and bake in the oven at 190°C until THE GARDEN OF varieties of the tree Trombello, a young member cracks form in the BIODIVERSITY (approximately 400) that of the Slow Food Movement, surface. It can be served Thanks to funding from populate the land that has been following Franco’s either warm or cold. two different projects, one Franco worked with care all work and taking from the CNR (National these years, inherited from photographs of it in order Unlike panella , a simpler research council) in his grandparents in to conserve important version of the same cake collaboration with the Pianesia. Franco’s daughter, documentation. The ancient which was almost Solidarius Cooperative, the Elisa, in agreement with the varieties of the chestnut exclusively consumed in “Mediterraneo” Association Slow Food Gulf of Poets trees , many of which are the mountain areas, the and “Il Cigno” Consortium, section in charge of the only found in the Vara castagnaccio was also and the other from Slow area, gathered photographic Valley (as many as 25 widely eaten in the city. Food Liguria, the “ Garden and documentary material varieties of chestnut of the Starting from the autumn of Biodiversity ” was on the various species of almost 50 with fruit found months, you can still find created in the spring of the tree variety that her in almost the entire 2014 by Franco Andreoni, father had taken care of peninsula), are the it in farinotti , bakers the head of the Slow Food over the years in order to centrepiece of the specialised in farinata , Community of the chestnut bring Pianesia back to life collection alongside the alongside panissa , made growers in the province of despite the floods and numerous fruit plants with chickpeas, and La Spezia. The idea is to abandonment. In addition, conserved thanks to timely vegetable quiches. give a name to all the since 2014, Matteo grafting. 76 77 Alta Via dei Monti Liguri Printed by Grafiche G7 Sas, Savignone (Ge) for Sagep Editori Srl, Genova May 2015