Boom Time NEW YORK — Covergirl Is All Grown Up
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
BEST AND WORST IN MEDIA/SECTION II Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 29, 2005 • $2.00 ▲ Calvin Klein’s Obsession Night masterbrand. Page 9. WWDFRIDAY Beauty Boom Time NEW YORK — CoverGirl is all grown up. P&G’s leading makeup brand is launching its first antiage product, Advanced Radiance Compact Foundation, with the hopes of meeting the needs of Baby Boomer customers. The line, which industry sources said could generate $25 million its first year on shelves, will be supported by former CoverGirl Christie Brinkley. For more, see page 10. As Estée Lauder Net Rises 6%, Firm Cuts Outlook for Year By Amy S. Choi Tom Ford and China. prior year. Sales climbed 8 percent NEW YORK — Disappointments in For the three months ended to $1.54 billion from $1.42 billion. fragrances and seasonal items hit March 31, Estée Lauder’s net Excluding the benefits of currency the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.’s first- earnings rose 6 percent to $106.2 exchange, net sales rose 6 percent. quarter results, but the beauty million, or 46 cents a diluted share, The results were well below giant remains optimistic, thanks to from $98.3 million, or 42 cents, in the See Estée, Page 16 PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY BRYN KENNY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY PHOTOS BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 29, 2005 WWD.COM Robust Sales at Gucci Drive PPR By Robert Murphy Gucci’s WWDFRIDAY PARIS — PPR said Thursday that lusty demand Flora bags. Beauty for Gucci shoes and bags, especially the Flora line, lifted the French luxury and retail groups’ GENERAL revenues in the first quarter. Estée Lauder delivered higher quarterly sales and earnings, but results Sales of leather goods at Gucci bounded more 1 were below forecasts. than 25 percent, propelling sales at the Italian company up 14.2 percent to 429.9 million euros, or Lusty demand for Gucci shoes and bags gave a boost to first-quarter $564.2 million at average exchange. 2 revenues at PPR. Overall, PPR’s luxury division reported sales SUZY: Designing for the dogs…A piercing slight from Brosnan…Cannes were up 10 percent to 711.5 million euros, or 6 don’t for Madonna. $933.8 million, the latest indication of a robust en- Robert Wichser was named president and chief executive officer of Sean vironment for Europe’s key luxury players. John, reporting directly to Sean “P. Diddy” Combs, founder and chairman. Earlier this week, Switzerland’s Compagnie 16 Financière Richemont reported a 10.1 percent causing late deliveries had been resolved. Pinault hike in sales for its fiscal year ended March 31. said new YSL president Valerie Hermann was Media In Depth, a Section II, is included in this issue. Meanwhile, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton working on implementing merchandising strate- Classified Advertisements........................................................................19 said its first-quarter sales improved 9.8 percent. gies to lift the house out of the red. The gains at PPR’s luxury division helped off- Sales of YSL leather goods improved 9.1 per- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is set mild increases at its retail arm, such as the cent, while sales of women’s clothing gained 11.5 [email protected], using the individual’s name. Printemps department store chain and the percent in the quarter. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 Redcats catalogue business, which were stalled by YSL sales increased 3.9 percent in Japan, 6 per- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. weak consumer spending in France and else- cent in the rest of Asia and 2.4 percent in Europe. VOLUME 189, NO. 91. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional where in Europe. They were flat in the U.S. issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL PPR said its sales in the three months through YSL Beauté’s sales gained only 0.9 percent due OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill March 31 improved 2.2 percent to 4.11 billion euros, to a “difficult” fragrance market, Pinault said. Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, or $5.39 billion, from 4.02 billion euros, or $5.27 bil- YSL Beauté’s sales in the period tallied 140.6 mil- Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- lion, a year ago, largely in line with analysts’ con- lion euros, or $184.5 million. President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration sensus expectations. Sales rocketed 46.7 percent to 32.6 million euros, No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, PPR’s stock fell 1.6 percent to close Thursday at or $42.8 million, at Bottega Veneta. Pinault said the ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR 75.60 euros, or $97.52 at current exchange, in trad- brand was “moving rapidly to reach the 200 million SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is ing on the Paris Bourse. euro goal in annual sales” that Gucci Group chief required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new “It’s a satisfying performance in a difficult envi- executive Robert Polet set in December as part of a subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, ronment,” said François-Henri Pinault of the re- wide-ranging strategy presentation. please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild sults, speaking on his first conference call to ana- Bottega Veneta performed well across all re- magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully lysts and reporters since taking over as PPR’s chief gions: up 40.7 percent in North America; up 49.7 screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. executive from Serge Weinberg last month. percent in Europe; up 60.6 percent in Japan, and WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED Though Pinault trumpeted the stellar leather up 67.7 percent in the rest of Asia. MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART goods sales at the Gucci brand, he reported lack- Among Gucci Group’s “other” brands, where WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED luster sales of clothing — including at most of the sales rose 9.8 percent to 69.4 million euros, or $91.1 TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE division’s other labels, which also include Yves million, Pinault singled out “good activity” at ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney, Alexander Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen and Boucheron. McQueen and Balenciaga. He said there was room for improvement at He called the flat ready-to-wear sales endemic Sergio Rossi, where Isabelle Guichot, formerly pres- to the industry, and said he hoped for a pickup ident of rival luxury conglomerate Richemont’s Van Quote of the Week later this year. Cleef & Arpels and Lancel businesses, was recently At the money-losing Yves Saint Laurent house, named president. sales dropped 3.6 percent to 39 million euros, or Meanwhile, in PPR’s other retail activities, “Customers care about a satisfying $51.2 million at average exchange, marred by logis- sales increased 0.7 percent to 3.4 billion euros, or tical problems and meager wholesale orders from $4.46 billion, affected by weak consumer spending shopping experience as much as retailers. Pinault said retailers had taken a “cau- in France and elsewhere in Europe. tious” attitude in ordering YSL since they had Sales at the Printemps department stores they do about product.’’ “poor sales in the past.” slipped 1.4 percent and sales at the Redcats cata- — Paul Pressler, president and chief executive officer, Gap Inc. But he heralded designer Stefano Pilati’s first loguer moved up 1.3 percent. collection for the Paris label as an “important” PPR’s other retail operations include the Fnac first step in relaunching the brand.