279 North is Tabo & Dhankar © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Lahaul Valley Manali McLeod Ganj Bharmour Chamba & ( p335 ) ( p335 ) ( p306 ), ( p306 ), Dhankar Dhankar Lahaul Valley Lahaul Valley Chamba Manali Manali ( p319 ) ( p319 ) ( p344 ) and (little drink) in a Raj-era hotel Tabo ( p337 ) McLeod Ganj Ganj McLeod ( p282 ), India’s favourite hill station ), India’s favourite p282 ( chottapeg Bharmour Shimla in ( p339 ) ( p339 ) of monasteries Leh–Manali bus in the serene bus in the serene Leh–Manali old temples in little-visited in little-visited old temples and refugees of refugees backpacker playground of ( p344 ), set amid stunning mountain scenery ), set amid stunning mountain scenery p344 ( in the remote Himachal’s adventure-sport capital

Seek inner peace at the Buddhist the crowds behind by jumping off the Leave chilled-out people and centuries- Encounter karma with the Tibetan Accumulate credits Ski, paraglide, raft or zorb in the climb, trek, Sink a Sink

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS „

Manali is the start of the main overland route to . Increasingly popular, the Great to Ladakh. Great popular, the route Manali is the start Increasingly of the main overland In the far east of Himachal, popular hill station, and further Shimla is India’s most north is Kin- The mystique of the mountains is overpowering. The mighty peaks of the Dhaula Dhar, Pir peaks of the Dhaula Dhar, Pir mighty The overpowering. mystique of the mountains is The

between mountain walls – no wonder Himachal is most people’s favourite northernbetween mountain walls – no wonder Himachal favourite is most people’s state! and Spiti to Kinnaur and ends with some luxury in Shimla. Even the beaten track is a dirt the beaten road Even and Spiti to Kinnaur ends with some luxury in Shimla. and Himalayan Circuit starts in Kashmir, slices through the mountain valleys of Ladakh, Lahaul thrill seekers. Across Himachal, Across with castles, forts,thrill seekers. the lower hills bristle and palaces. temples In central Himachal, Manali and the Kullu Valley provide a base for hippies, honeymooners and a provide In central Himachal, Manali and the Kullu Valley naur, the eastern gateway to Spiti and an increasingly popular destination for domestic hill tours. for domestic hill tours. popular destination to Spiti and an increasingly gateway naur, the eastern centre of McLeod Ganj, home to the Dalai and the Tibetan government in exile. in exile. government the and the Tibetan Ganj, home to of McLeod centre dhist culture abounds in the ancient monasteries of Lahaul abounds in the ancient monasteries and Spiti and the bustling traveller dhist culture adventure activities from treks and rafting to skiing and . Tibetan Bud- and rafting to skiing activities from treks Tibetan and Buddhist meditation. adventure Panjal and western Himalaya ranges rise above Himachal, providing a setting for a host of Himachal, providing Himalaya ranges rise above and western Panjal and Spiti, cut off from the outside world by snow for six months of the year. the year. the outside world by snow for six months of and Spiti, cut off from towns, serene pine forests, endless apple orchards and the high-altitude deserts endless apple orchards and the high-altitude pine forests, of Lahaultowns, serene can match such incredible diversity – rolling foothills, lofty hill stations, madcap traveller lofty hill stations, madcap traveller – rolling foothills, diversity can match such incredible for the thousands of foreign and domestic travellers who come here every year. Few states states Few year. every who come here and domestic travellers for the thousands of foreign

Crowned by the rugged peaks of the western Himalaya, Himachal the western the rugged peaks of Crowned by Pradesh Himachal Pradesh HIMACHAL PRADESH 280 (110km) To Jammu To Amritsar 1 HIMACHAL PRADESH P UNJAB (70km) Jalandhar Pathankot 1A IAHLPAEH HIMACHAL PRADESH Hoshiarpur K ASHMIR J AMU& ὄὄ ὄὄ Chakki Phagwara Banikhet Sangrur Ludhiana Dalhousie Nurpur Kotla Khajjiar Jawali Chauri Khas

D Jaijon

h

Mubarakpur Ravi

McLeod Ganj S i w a l i k i l a w i S a Kangra

Rahon P Chamba Sach Pass 1 (4390m) Masrur

u

B

River Indrahar La

i C h a m b a V a l l e y e l l a V a b m a h C

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Ranital d

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P Nadaun

R a n g e g n a R Nagrota h

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Dharamsala Chenab a

V River

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l n l r e Chamunda

y j Yol

a

Kiratpur y e l l a V i g n a P

Manimahesh Devi

l R Triloknath

Lake

Palampur Rupnagar

Hamirpur E G N A R N YA A L A M I H 21

Bharmour

a

R

Chandigarh n

Holi a

K a n g r a r g n a K

g Baijnath n

Waru Pass

(4803m) Kalicho Pass

e To Delhi g (185km) Udaipur Sundernagar

Manimahesh Chandra P a t t a n V a l l e y e l l a V n a t t a P Rewalsar e (5656m) Kailash Nalagarh Swarghat Billing

S Bilaspur Bir

h y e l l a V Jogindernagar & Taragarh (5040m) Kugti Pass River Mandi Tashijong Ambala i Arki Kasauli m

Tandi l Sutlej a Shashur Kandaghat To Padum Pinjore Kandi Gompa Kalka Solang (65km) Nullah Gondla

H Tayul River

i Naldehra Raison Mashobra ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Prashar Kullu l Katrain Dharampur

l Guru GhantalGompa Lake Bhuntar

s Ghemur Gompa Jagatsukh Manali Khoksar Pandoh Barog 22 Keylong 21 Solan Tattapani (5090m) Shinkun La

Mirhi H ARYN

Aut Beas Khardong Gompa Shimla Karsog

Larji River Kullu Naggar Chail Khanag Nahan Jari Malana K ASHMIR

Valley J AMU& Kufri

Bhaga To TanglangLa(90km); Gramphu Chandratal Tirthan P

L AHU

(3978m) Rohtang La

Sainj River

River Chikha S a Fagu Narkanda

Kasol Hamta Pass i

Giri r Leh (190km) w (4270m) Sainj Banjar Theog Patseo

Glaciers

v Manikaran

a (3223m) Jalori Pass

l

River Thanedhar L a h a u l u a h a L

Hattu Peak i a Chattru

Pulga

Nirath k ὄ ὄ ὄ Ani lonelyplanet.com

Kotgarh t Gushaini (4950m) Baralacha La River Great Himalayan (6001m) Deo Tibba

Dadahu/Dosarka i Bagi National Park Bharatphur City Jubbal Thakur Khan

Yamuna H Rampur

Battal i

Parvati

Renuka Lake V l

l S

u a Khadrala s Sarchu

Rohru

Hatkoti t

Bara Shigri y e l l a V Chandratal l (4551m) Kunzum La Pabbar l

River e

Jeori

l

j River

Srikhand e Mahadev Paonta River V a l l e y (5227m) Sahib

Sarahan ns River y Seema To HIMACHAL PRADESH 281 (kings), creating a a (kings), creating thakurs Punjabi Punjabi (July to OctoberNovember in Lahaul and Spiti) and Main languages: Hindi, Pahari When to go: April to June, October to Population: 6.1 million 55,673 sq km Area: Shimla Capital: „ „ FAST FACTS FACTS FAST „ „ „

Sikh rajas came to dominate the region by the region to dominate came Sikh rajas The state of Himachal Pradesh was formed Himachal The state of During the 19th century the British started the British started During the 19th century History History after Independence in 1948, liberating many after In 1966 the system. from the feudal villages – in- Punjabi from the districts administered Kullu, Lahaulcluding Kangra, and Spiti – were in 1971. was achieved added and full statehood by central government, Initially neglected itself as the power- has reinvented Himachal hydroelectric India, with huge plants house of half the country. power for providing first Westerners to visit were Jesuit mission- Jesuit to visit were Westerners first kingdom of the legendary aries in search of kingdom – a mythical Christian John Prester there Interestingly, Asia. lost in the middle of several Aryan tribes in North India to are eastern Kinnauris of this day, including the Hin- of a mixture most following Himachal, duism and . England in the hills at little bits of creating Dharamsala. Dalhousie and Shimla Shimla, became the British Raj’slater summer capi- pushed railways were tal and narrow-gauge Valley. and the Kangra through to Shimla their influence The British slowly extended was under the thrall the region until most of Shimla. of Ancient trade routes dominate the history of of the history dominate trade routes Ancient northern Large Pradesh. parts of Himachal in the by conquered were Himachal domi- still and Buddhist culture 10th century the mountain Lahaulnates deserts of and in the south accessible areas Spiti. The more divvied up between the state were a host of ranas and rajas, of Kullu with Kangra, tiny states, of patchwork the pile. of and Chamba at the top with signing treaties the early 19th century, The their power. the British to consolidate Shipki La (5669m) 40 miles 60 km Leo Purgyal (6770m) Nako T I B E T C H I N A

Baspa River Puh Chitkul Spillo/Khanum Sumdo

Chango Lippa

Morang -Tibet Hwy -Tibet

Rakcham Hindustan Kinner Kailash (6050m) Tabo Dehra Dun Mussoorie

Jangi River

Kamru

Dhankar Tso Lake Sangla (6593m) Sutlej V a l l e y Mane Rang Shilla (7026m) and may not be correct.

PRADESH •• History HIMACHAL Kinnaur Valley Kinnaur The external boundaries of India The external boundaries Valley Pin

Gompa

K I N N A U R S a n g l a L i n g t i V a l l e y y e l l a V i t g n i L Dhankar Karcham on this map have not been authenticated on this map have not Gulling Kaza Ki Gompa Sichling

Kalpa Mud U T T A R A K H A N D River (U T T A R A N C H A L) Rekong Peo

Ki Tapri Pin

River S p i t i Kungri 0 0 V a l l e y Sagnam Wangtu Sanctuary Park S P I T I Spiti Nichar Pin-Parvati Pass (5319m) Rangrik Rajaji Wildlife National Pin Valley Morang Pangmo

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Ὀ ὄ Ὀ HIMACHAL PRADESH routes inJulyand August. Solotrekking is to October, some butmonsoonrains affect son, includingguides, tent, foodandporters. for all-inclusive treks atUS$50per per- start Dailyrates passes. mote valleysandmountain and othertownsoffer organised treks tore- dozens of agencies inManali, Ganj McLeod Himachal Pradesh isatrekkers’ and paradise, TREKKING and Narkanda( p292 ) nearShimla. boarders congregate onSolangNullah( p317 ) From January toMarch, skiers andsnow- SKIING p310. and p303 water forkayaking andrafting–see p291 , near Shimla churn upsomeimpressive white River nearKulluandtheSutlejRiver The Beas RAFTING and Billing( p331 ). gliding, particularlyatSolangNullah( p317 ) foothills provide perfect conditionsforpara- The soaringthermalsover theHimalayan PARAGLIDING theboxedsee text, p310 . of wildandexhilaratingactivitiesonoffer – Manali isIndia’sadventure withahost capital, Activities kong Peo fordetails. sections those –see from yourpassport,inShimla, Kaza andRe- and photocopiesof pages theidentityand visa permit easily,withtwopassportphotographs Kinnaur andTabo the inSpiti.Youcanobtain line permittotravel RekongPeo between in cally sensitive andforeigners aninner need IndiaandTibetThe borderbetween ispoliti- PERMITS Information around Shimla. intheKulluValleypeak skiingseason and thisisalsothe andSpiti.However, Lahaul valleysofto April,includingthemountain areasmany mountainous fromNovember hills canbechilly anddamp,snowcloses at thistime. Duringthemonsoonmiddle vations foraccommodationare recommended toNovemberand September –advancereser- forvisitors areThe mainseasons May toJuly Climate 282 The main trekking season runsfromMayThe maintrekking season ATR IAHLPAEH • hma HIMACHALEASTERN PRADESH••Shimla on the trip from Manali to Lahaul and Spiti. andSpiti. on thetripfromManali toLahaul Share jointhebuses for localsightseeing. jeeps ternal Many flights. peoplehire acaranddriver thereHimachal Pradesh,though are afew in- provideBuses mostlocaltransportaround Getting Around Shimla andfromPathankot toJogindernagar. via theoldmetre-gauge linesfromKalka to arrangements yourself. iscancelled,makelines. Ifyourflight anynew onto overpriced alternative bytheair- flights and travellers have reported beingbooked are flights Delhi. However, often cancelled thatreceiveand Dharamsala from flights there are small airstrips nearShimla, Kullu The mainroute intoHimachal isbybus,but Getting There&Away layan NationalPark ( p299 ) nearKullu. sible trekking destinationistheGreat Hima- region ( Zanskar Ladakh’s p391 ). Anotherpos- ( p328 ) andthetrek fromPadum toDarcha in trek GanjtotheChambaValley fromMcLeod Pass trek ( fromManali toLahaul p315 ), the to thePinValley inSpiti( p302 ), theHamta the boxedPradesh (see text, p303 ). have‘disappearances’ occurred inHimachal –anumberofnot advised accidentsand from the sweltering heatof the plains,with 1939, the entire government of India fledhere ofmer capital theRaj.Every summeruntil Shimla sum- intothe official haddeveloped again.By1864 thesame nothing wasever built asummerhomeinShimla in 1822and namedCharlesKennedy Scottish civilservant as Shyamala (alocalnameforKali). Thena at Shimla forest butasleepy gladeknown Until theBritisharrived, there was nothing % SHIMLA .nic.in. districtwebsiteThe official ishttp://hpshimla district of Kinnaur,which runsnorthtoSpiti. Shimla, andthemountainous thestate capital, HimachalEastern Pradeshisdominated by PRADESH EASTERN HIMACHAL You can get part way into Himachal by train You canget partwayintoHimachal bytrain Popular moderate treks includethetrek 0177 /pop144,900elev2205m lonelyplanet.com HIMACHAL PRADESH 283 dances. The Dalai Lama holds open dances. chaam At the bus or train stations you will be be- The long, winding, pedestrian-only Mall Mall pedestrian-only The long, winding, flat open area known as the Ridge stretches stretches as the Ridge known area flat open to cover their commission; ask to be taken to ask to be taken their commission; to cover as Christ Church a prominent landmark such and walk alone from there. east to Christ Church, where trails lead uphill trails where Christ Church, east to Temple. Jakhu towards the Down- east from Scandal Point. runs west and hill is Cart train station, Rd, with the the Inter and taxi stands. A passenger State Bus Terminal and between the Mall a quick route lift provides alley- Cart via the maze of Rd, or you can go the Middle Bazar and Lower Bazar. ways of to carry your lug- offering by porters sieged uphill for Rs 30 to Rs 50. Most double as gage your room tariff will increase touts, and hotels (10-12 Dec; McLeod Ganj, p325 ) Celebrating the Dalai Lama’s Nobel Peace ) Celebrating the Dalai Lama’s Nobel Peace p325 Ganj, (10-12 Dec; McLeod A big trade and culture festival in Lahaul festival A big trade and culture market with and music. stalls, dancing (May; Billing, p331 ) Paragliders across the world gather on the slopes above ) Paragliders p331 (May; Billing, p340 ) (Oct; Kullu, p303 ; Sarahan, p293 ) Kullu celebrates the defeat of the demon Ravana) Kullu celebrates the defeat p293 ; Sarahan, p303 (Oct; Kullu, (Aug/Sep; near Bharmour, p337 ) Shaivites trek for two days to bathe in Manimahesh) Shaivites trek Lake, p337 (Aug/Sep; near Bharmour, (Jun/Jul; Ki, p343 ) The monastery at Ki holds whirling masked dances at this time, attended p343 (Jun/Jul; Ki, (Nov; Dhankar, p344 ) Masked Buddhist dances and processions at Spiti’s Dhankar Gompa. p344 (Nov; Dhankar, (Jul; Keylong, (Apr; Chamba, p335 ) Four days of singing and dancing to honour Sui Mata,) Four days of singing and to who gave her life p335 (Apr; Chamba, (May; Manali, p308 ) Animal sacrifices in honour of Hadimba at Manali’s ancient Dhungri Temple. ) Animal sacrifices in honour of Hadimba at Manali’s ancient Dhungri Temple. p308 (May; Manali, PRADESH •• Shimla EASTERN HIMACHAL (Nov; , p292 ) A six-day festival culminating in the ritualsix-day festival ) A immersion of idols of p292 (Nov; Renuka Lake, (Feb/Mar; Mandi, p297 ; Baijnath, p330 ) Villagers march idols of local gods to the temples in Mandi) and p330 ; Baijnath, p297 Mandi, (Feb/Mar; (Aug; Kaza, p342 ) An ancient trade fair celebrated in Spiti, with Buddhist dances, mountain sports) An ancient trade and p342 (Aug; Kaza, (Sep/Oct; Kalpa, p296 ; Sangla, p294 ) Villagers across Kinnaur fill temple courtyards with flowers of p294 ; Sangla, p296 (Sep/Oct; Kalpa, (Jul/Aug; Chamba, p335 ) A harvest held on the banks of the Ravi. festival, Minjar – shoots of maize – are p335 (Jul/Aug; Chamba, (Aug; Triloknath, p339 ) Buddhists and gather at the temple of Triloknath and light giant butter lamps p339 (Aug; Triloknath, (Feb/Mar; Lahaul and Spiti, p343 ; Dec/Jan; McLeod Ganj, p325 ) Tibetans across Himachal celebrate the ) Tibetans p325 Ganj,; Dec/Jan; McLeod p343 Lahaul (Feb/Mar; and Spiti,

(Nov; Rampur, p293 ) An ancient trade fair at Rampur on the old trade route to Tibet, marked days of by three ) An ancient trade fair at Rampur on the old trade route to Tibet, p293 (Nov; Rampur,

bustling rural markets. in honour of Lord or Avalokitesvara. one of Shiva’s mythical abodes. Tibetan New Year with processions, music and dancing, and masked New Year Tibetan flight challenges. Billing for competitions and record teaching sessions in Dharamsala. teaching sessions in Dharamsala. haggling and high spirits. with a huge fair and parade, led by the chariot of Raghunath (Rama). Sarahan celebrates Durga’s victory over the demon Mahishasura with animal sacrifices in honour of Bhimakali. (Vishnu)Parshuram and Renukaji in Renuka Lake. Baijnath as a tribute to Lord Shiva. save the people of Chamba. offered to Varuna, god of rains, in a week-long celebration. god of rains, in a week-long to Varuna, offered Renuka Mela Himalayan Festival International Lavi Guktor Festival Phulech intoxicating fragrance and oracles carry out sacrifices and make predictions for the coming year. Puja Dussehra or Durga Pauri Pauri Manimahesh Yatra Lahaul Festival Lahaul Festival Minjar Ladarcha Himalayan Hang-Gliding Rally Ki Chaam Festival Sui Mata Mela Mela Sui Mata Mela Dhungri Losar Shivaratri FESTIVALS IN HIMACHAL PRADESH PRADESH IN HIMACHAL FESTIVALS Prize, this festival promotes peace and cultural understanding with Buddhist dances and music. Prize, promotes peace and cultural understanding with Buddhist dances and music. this festival by villagers from across Spiti.

Strung out along a 12km ridge, Shimla seems Shimla a 12km ridge, Strung out along

Shimla sprawls for miles, but the official cen- Shimla the Scandal Point. From here, town is of tre Orientation season. Honeymooners also come here to frolicseason. also come here Honeymooners and January. in the snow in December vember, which coincides with the main tourist which vember, poised on the verge of sliding into the valley. sliding into the of poised verge on the is clearly peaks snow-covered line of A jagged to No- and October visible from April to June city was even briefly the capital of Punjab until city was even the capital briefly of in 1966. redrawn the map was line was constructed in 1903, Shimla’s status in 1903, Shimla’s line was constructed The hill station was assured. as India’s premier all their clerks’ books and forms filled out in filled out and forms clerks’ books all their railway the Kalka–Shimla When triplicate. lonelyplanet.com ὈὈὈ

HIMACHAL PRADESH Maria Brothers Maria BOOKSHOPS lice canhitoffenders withaRs500fine. and spittingexist.Enforcementislaxbutpo- banning plasticbags,littering, smoking Laws Information 284 1pm & 3.30-8pm) Second-hand and antiquarian books. andantiquarian 1pm &3.30-8pm)Second-hand (1.5km) To TheGlen Kalka (82km);Chandigarh(108km) Chadwick Falls(5km);JubbarhattiAirport(20km); To ProspectHill(2km);Summer(3km); 4 1 3 2 5 SHIMLA 37 17 ATR IAHLPAEH • hma HIMACHALEASTERN PRADESH••Shimla Hotel Ranjan...... (see 38) Hotel Mayur...... Hotel Gulmarg...... Hotel Dreamland...... Hotel Doegar...... Hotel Dalziel...... (see 28) Hotel Combermere...... Hotel Classic...... Hotel Amber...... Sri GuruSinghSabhaGurdwara..... Shiv Mandir...... Rothney Castle...... Ram Mandir...... Offices oftheAccountantGeneral.. Kali BariMandir...... ...... Ice-Skating Rink...... Himachal StateMuseum&Library.. Christ Church...... Tourist Police...... State BankofIndia...... Roshan Studios...... Punjab NationalBank...... Minerva Bookshop...... Maria Brothers...... Main PostOffice...... Indira GandhiMedicalCollege...... HPTDC TouristOffice...... HPTDC SatelliteOffice...... (see59) HPTDC SatelliteOffice...... Great EscapeRoutes...... Cyberia...... BSNL CustomerServiceCentre...... Bank ATMs...... Asian &InternationalTravels...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION (2km) Himalayan BirdPark Lodge (2km); To Viceregal A ( 36 % 2565388; The Mall; 2565388; TheMall; 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 E3 E3 C1 F3 F4 F4 C1 D3 D4 E3 E1 D3 B2 C1 F2 E3 A2 E3 C1 D3 D3 E3 E3 D3 F1 E3 B2 F3 F4 D3 D3 F3 h Spars Café...... (see 37) Loveena Restaurant...... Indian CoffeeHouse...... (see 43) Goofa...... Embassy Restaurant...... Domino's...... Devicos Restaurant...... China TownRestaurant...... Cecil...... (see 36) Café Sol...... (see26) Baljee's...... Ashiana...... (see 46) YWCA...... YMCA...... Vikrant Hotel...... Spars Lodge...... Oberoi Cecil...... Le Royale...... Hotel WillowBanks...... Hotel White...... EATING B Station Train 10.30am-

The Mall 21 6 Annandale

Pradesh. 6pm) Goodfornovels,mapsandbooksonHimachal Ridge) Tourist Police Tourist College Medical Indira Gandhi EMERGENCIES Bookshop Minerva

Victory Tunnel 27

Cart Rd 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 47 46 45 44 43 42 14 C E3 E3 F4 D3 D3 D3 E3 D3 F3 D4 A2 A2 F3 F4 E1 ( 20 31 % Ritz Cineplex...... Gaiety Theatre...... Footloose Disco...... (see 52) The Pub...... (see 52) Park Café...... Himani's...... Barista...... ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING 2812344; ScandalPoint) ( 0 0 %

58 Magistrate's Mall The Additional 2803078; The Mall; 2803078; TheMall; See Inset District Office 26 59 25 3 ( 38 22 % 54 ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ lonelyplanet.com 43 40 2803073; The 12 Middle 0.1 miles D Bazar 9 Scandal Middle Bazar Point 200 m 13 52 51 50 49 48 2 h 53 F3 E3 E3 E3 E3 The Ridge 9am- Cart Rd Scandal Point 42 44 HIMACHAL PRADESH

285 10am- has an h 9am-6pm) h state museum 10am-4pm (Indian/foreigner Rs (Indian/foreigner 10am-2.15pm & 10am-2.15pm &

h (fax 2202598; The 9am-8pm, till 6pm low h h 2652561; http://himach (The Mall; % 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm 2803411; The Mall; ( (The Mall; h % ( Viceregal Lodge ( looks like a cross between Harry a cross between Harry looks like 9.15am-1pm & 2-5pm, till 7pm Jun & Jul, tours 24hr) West of Scandal Point; for sending and h h 2.45-4pm Mon-Fri, Sat) West of Scandal Point; 10am-1pm Cook travellers cheques changes cash and Amex or Thomas in US dollars or British pounds. Mon-Fri, in cash Sat) Changes major currencies 10am-1pm and travellers cheques. derbusses. GARDENS VICEREGAL LODGE & BOTANICAL for the British Built as an official residence viceroys, the 20/50; half-hourly) Below the post office; sells print and slide film and offers one-hour processing. Sun) Looks after are There parcels and poste restante. several the Mall. sub-offices west along faxes. receiving guide booklets. the Nest & Wings series of HPTDC tourist office Sights & Activities MUSEUM & LIBRARY STATE HIMACHAL Scandal Point by the 2.5km west of About the mast, telecommunications Rs 10/50, camera Rs 50/100; (Indian/foreigner 1.30pm & 2-5pm Tue-Fri, Sun & 2nd Sat each month) and Mughal Kangra collection of impressive coins and Chamba embroidery, miniatures, carvings,jewellery, temple Shimla paintings of blun- and weapons – including some massive Roshan Studios POST Main post office TELEPHONE offices abound. PCO/ISD/STD BSNL Customer Service Centre Mall; TOURIST INFORMATION glean excellent local information fromYou can MONEY MONEY in facilities no money-changing are There or LahaulKinnaur, Spiti on rupees so stock up dot- are 24-hour ATMs Numerous in Shimla. Point. around Scandal ted Bank Punjab National State India Bank of PHOTOGRAPHY season) Helpful for advice, brochures and bookingseason) Helpful for advice, brochures HPTDC satellite booths by the are There buses, hotels and tours. and the Victory Tunnel. Inter State Bus Terminal altourism.nic.in; Scandal Point; 5 2 3 1 4 400 m 5 9am- 35 19 29 Kufri (16km); 0.2 miles Hill h Rampur (140km) Jakhu 30 F To Sanjauli (500m); 34 28 45 4 10am-8.30pm) 39 E3 C4 D4 E3 F4 D3 D3 E3 E2 52 The Mall (The Mall; per hr Rs 30; 8 57 58 59 60 61 53 54 55 56 h Bazar 1 61 Lakkar Passenger Lift 23 10 16 32 (Jakhu; per hr Rs 40; 0 0 50 Sabzi Mandi PRADESH •• Shimla EASTERN HIMACHAL 57 47 46 60 33 E

49 Mall 18 Kamal Nehru Hospital

Lower Bazaar The The (The Mall; per hr Rs 30; Ridge 56 Hall 11

Town

TRANSPORT SHOPPING Government Deluxe Bus Stand..(see 6) Inter State Bus Terminal (ISBT)... Kalka-Shimla Taxi Union Stand.. Rivoli Bus Stand...... Union...... Himachal Emporium...... Music World...... (see 26) Tibetan Clothes Market...... Tibetan Handloom Shop...... Ambassador Travels...... Fab India...... Vishal Himachal Taxi Operators Cart Rd Cart 51 Bazar 9am-9.30pm) 7 48 Lakkar 55 15 To Chapslee (3km) 41 24 Great Escape Routes Cyberia Asian International & Travels INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS and all bets, internet good following are The CDs: will burn photo lonelyplanet.com h

10pm)

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ὈὈ ὈὈ HIMACHAL PRADESH 9am Sun) of school children drop in before and after small The mostpopular temple forlocalsisthe OTHER TEMPLES chargeeither stand Rs250return. theboxedmenace –see text, above . Taxis from of theRidge, butthemonkeys are franklya hike theforest, through attheeast end starting hereofferings). Getting involves apleasant for around harassingdevotees priately, hundreds of rhesus macaquesloiter to themonkey god,, andappro- Shimla’s mostfamous temple is dedicated JAKHU TEMPLE tiny congregation. albeitwitha There’s stillaSundayservice, glass. era memorialsandsomefinestained Raj- 1846and1857,itcontains Built between ern India(theoldestisinAmbalaHaryana). This very English CHRIST CHURCH cations mast,thensticktothelargest road. poorly signposted –aimforthetelecommuni- from ScandalPointalongtheMall, butit’s bird. state Himachal’s the iridescentmonalpheasant, small collectionof including exoticpheasant, layan BirdPark outside. ets costRs20ifyoujustwanttolookatthe tours Tick- of thebuildingsleave half-hourly. the IndianInstitute of AdvancedStudy,but was hauleduphere bymule. Todayithouses London. Every initsconstruction brickused Potter’s HogwartsSchool andtheTowerof 286 The lodge 4.5kmwalkwest isapleasant Opposite thelodge entranceisthe or youcanbuyoneforRs50. Temple, stickscanbehired onthepathforRs15 Walking doasthelocalsandcarryastick. confronted equivalentofshouting‘bringiton’!OnthewalkuptoJakhu –it’sthemonkey leave clothesdryingonbalconies. Don’tfeed andnever if monkeys eyecontact smileormake nature parksinTajikistan. severe thatthelocalgovernment andshippingthemto roundinguplocalmonkeys hasstarted – theywere madethiswaybyirresponsible feeding –butthe‘ menace’hasbecomesomonkey threatening weren’t anyonewhogetsintheirway.Shimla’s monkeys bornbad orattacking Shimla’s simiansare agenuinemenace,staging daringraidsthroughopenhotel windowsand MONKEY BUSINESS ATR IAHLPAEH • hma HIMACHALEASTERN PRADESH••Shimla Visitors sense. toShimlashouldlearnsomemonkey Alwayslockyourhotel windowsandnever Shiv Mandir Shiv Mandir is the second-oldest church isthesecond-oldest innorth- (admission Rs5; just below theRidge –crowds church ( % h 2652953; 10am-5pm) prasad h , witha services services Hima- (food the grandmock-Gothic the ror films,andthemock-Tudorfollyhousing reminiscent of themansioninHammer Hor- ish architecture, includingthe The Ridge islinedwithgrandexamplesof Brit- HISTORIC BUILDINGS the ISBT. huge white attend whileSikhs the inMiddleBazar, stand at themodernist image of Kali asShyamala. Vaishnavites gather gali hut–style ing donations. school loiter andsadhus onthesteps solicit- About 4kmwestof ScandalPointis WALKING theboxedHume –see text, opposite . Rothney Castle Temple, thegates through of youcanpeek General a formerplaygroundof rich Britishcolonial- About 1kmwestof theRidge istheBen- each month) h Additional District Magistrate Tabo inSpitiare issuedbytheofficeof Free permitsfortravel fromRekongPeo to INNER LINEPERMITS Rekong Peo orKaza. – solotravellers shouldtryforapermitin grants permitsfor groups oftwoormore This officeonlypages fromyourpassport. photos andcopiesoftheidentity visa while youwait,butyou’llneedtwopassport vice Centre ontheMall.Permits are issued post office 10am-1.30pm &2-5pmMon-Sat,closed2ndSat . Above Shimla ontheway totheJakhu Sri GuruSinghSabhaGurdwara Sri , belowtheBSNLCustomer Ser- . Atthewestendof theMall are , formerhomeof AllanOctavian Kali Bari Kali Ram Mandir Ram temple –enshrining an Offices oftheAccountant Offices , justabove thebus lonelyplanet.com Town Hall ( % 2651201; The Glen The , oddly near , HIMACHAL PRADESH

287 Hotel and and Closed at the Up the steps Up the steps ) i 2806897; s/d from Rs 400/750) % (

2653078; fax 2802646; s/d with squat 2653078; fax 2802646; s/d with squat %

( 2652818; d/tr/q Rs 300/400/550) 2803081; above The Mall) 2650021; s/d with shared bathroom Rs 200/350, 2650021; s/d with shared % % ( (

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YWCA Hotel Dreamland Hotel Classic Near the ISBT are several noisy cheapies several noisy cheapies are Near the ISBT offering basic rooms with bathrooms. offering Ranjan net café and lockers for valuables. Book ahead for valuables. net café and lockers in high season. simi- the YWCA should offer writing, time of at similar prices. lar facilities to the YMCA, toilet Rs 330/440, with sit-down flush toilet Rs 550/660) The Classic is a worn but welcoming place and the location is handy for the train sta- paint tion and Scandal Point. A new coat of are has brightened up the rooms and there the Annandale meadow from the views over garden. Sleeping Sleeping during steep rates charge in Shimla Hotels the peak tourist season (April to June, Oc- all and Christmas). At tober to November, discounts. In winter, other times, ask about for an extra heating can usually be provided – claims that in Shimla Touts abound charge. full or closed with should be taken are hotels salt. of a pinch BUDGET YMCA with private bathroom Rs 450/660; all takes beside the Ritz Cineplex, the YMCA or gender. religion age, of regardless comers, a pleasant and clean, and there’s Rooms are A steep climb behind the pavilion at the west the pavilion A steep climb behind has a range the Dreamland Ridge, the end of rooms with TVs well-cared-for and mod- of so ask discounted often est views. Prices are you seebefore the rooms.

Nov-Mar) h (student) of the of Tibet, before devoting his energies his energies devoting before Tibet, (student) of the lamas of

( •• Shimla PRADESH EASTERN HIMACHAL , once the site , once the site chela , about 5km west (67m high) are (67m high) are has pleasant, shady has pleasant, shady Annandale has a Durga temple and temple has a Durga ice-skating rink Prospect Hill Chadwick Falls Sanjauli Summer Hill along the Ridge are a popular diver- are along the Ridge Hume was even more remarkable outside of politics. In his free time he assembled the lar- time he assembled In his free remarkable of politics. outside more Hume was even

gest collection of stuffed birds in Asia, which he housed in a private museum at Rothney Castle, at Rothney Castle, museum which he housed in a private birds in Asia, gest collection of stuffed British Museum shipped to the whole collection was later The his palatial mansion in Shimla. at Rothney seances an avid student of the occult, holding regular in London. Hume was also clairvoyant. luminaries as Madame Blavatsky, the Ukrainian with such Castle toyed Hume even a with the idea of becoming A REMARKABLE CIVIL SERVANT SERVANT CIVIL A REMARKABLE Allan Octavian by his peers, most Hume was one of the an eccentric reactionary Regarded as Kent, Born in joined the Indian civil England, Hume colourful Empire. of the British characters service by administration. Horrified ranks of the colonial quickly rose through the in 1849 and he became an outspoken of the indigenous population, campaigner for treatment the shameful the first political party Congress, found the Indian National helped and eventually social reform India today. Indians, which still governs run for and by for India. to self-government

The taxi unions also offer one-day sightsee-The taxi unions also offer From April to September, travel agents can agents From April to September, travel About 5km away on the Shimla–Kalka on the Shimla–Kalka 5km away About Tattapani (Rs 1120). Tattapani ing tours to Kufri, Naldehra, Fagu and Masho- Fagu to Kufri, Naldehra, ing tours and Naldehra bra (Rs 820); and Mashobra, Shimla. The tours leave from the Rivoli bus leave The tours Shimla. stand at around 10.30am. Seats cost Rs 160 to Rs 245. Contact the office for the current itineraries. In the high season, daily HPTDC organises around sightseeing villages of bus tours Tours Tours In winter there’s an there’s In winter near the Rivoli bus stand. arrange rafting trips from Tattapani on the rafting trips from Tattapani arrange for Rs 800. Shimla, of northwest Sutlej River, Pony rides sion. You’ll pay Rs 40 for a quick turn around Scandal Point and Rs 400 for the trip up to Temple. Jakhu OTHER ACTIVITIES ACTIVITIES OTHER of Shimla. About 3km east of Lakkar 3km east of Bazar, About Shimla. of of the village excellent views at walks. Pretty walks. Pretty the just after 2km further west, best visited and temple an interesting monsoon. There’s railway line, ists, selected for its similarity to the Scottish passeshighlands. through The road here the meadow at flat green run by Gelukpaa small Buddhist monastery monks. of a famous racecourse, and a popular venue a famous racecourse, and a popular venue of and polo matches. for cricket Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book HIMACHAL PRADESH budget. Theoldbuilding–aformercolonial Hotel Classic, theDalzieloffers heritage ona run andwellpriced.It’sworthshelling out of ScandalPoint,thismidrange placeiswell over buildingsandannexes several below the down over Shimla. for oneof the2nd-floor roomswithviews Bazar;rRs600-900,stefrom1200) Lakkar dining roomoverlooking thevalley. localtroutina the excellentrestaurant serves rooms are fullof interesting and littledetails arethis placeisareal charming, find.Staff Rs 600/900) and market. There’s shop alsoanexcellentsweet and shared balconiesoverlookingTVs the hotel hassmall butagreeable roomswithtiny Mandir, thisnoisybutcheerfulNear theRam dining room. rooms arranged aroundahuge wood-panelled fadedbutcleaneconomy bungalow –contains dRs450,newblock550-900) .com; TheMall; boxy singles. round bedsandmirrored ceilings,andplainer hotel offers gloriouslychintzy doubleswith Computer College, thishuge honeymoon sRs300-450,d500-1450) below TheMall; Gulmarg Hotel MIDRANGE morning. are bothOKifyouhave anearlybusinthe Hotel Vikrant 288 Hotel White Hotel o Amber Hotel Dalziel Hotel with fullboardRs9500-12,500; and –ofcourse –acroquet lawn. brary, cardroom,sun lounge,tennis courts with completely original fittings,plusali- There are justsixsumptuousbedrooms, all baroque furniture andpiecesof Victoriana. trophies,Mughalceramics, pets, big-game with chandeliers,tapestries,Afghan car- mountainretreatextravagant iscrammed ofShimla,this about4kmnorth Elysium Hill, PerchedCharanjit SinghofKapurthala. atop geously ostentatious former home ofRaja Chapslee treatment,For thefullRaj bookaroomat FIT FORAMAHARAJA dhaba ATR IAHLPAEH • hma HIMACHALEASTERN PRADESH••Shimla Just downhill from the museum, Justdownhillfromthemuseum, Spars Lodge (snackbar). (

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% 2802542; www.chapslee.com; d ( % 2653602; dmRs150,d250-600) 2656136; www.hotelwhiteshimla.com; 2654774; Middle Bazar;rRs550-1540) 2654774; Middle 2653168; [email protected]; 2653168; [email protected]; 2652394; hoteldalziel@hotmail ( % 2657908; Museum Rd;s/d 2657908; Museum a ) , theoutra- Spread out Northeast Nextto

Jakhu Temple, theelegantRoyalehasanex- an eyrie-like locationonthetrackupto Town Hall, isagreat Baljee’s placetobreak- 20-60; .com; The Mall; rfromRs2750) .com; TheMall; r Rs950-1500) The Ridge; dRs750-1500) The Ridge; comfort. health club,androomshave creature every shines like abeacon.There’s and agym,sauna theWillowBanks ing itinthemountains, and bar. 45 roomsandagym,healthclub,restaurant providesmatch. Aglasselevator accessto the plains,withgrandroomsandpricesto The choice of urbanites from well-heeled rfromRs2500,ste3200) ermere.com; TheMall; views. the lawnhasmountain there’s avery invitingrestaurant andbar, clusive, hidden-awayfeel. Roomsare tasteful, Le Royale TOP END suggest. not asgrandtheglowingneonsignmight Mayur andwelllocated, iscomfortable but deluxe roomwithbalconyandatub. thick carpets.Werecommend upgradingtoa roof roomswith terrace andcompact,fluffy has greatfaçade, theDoegar views fromthe Indian Coffee House ispackedIndian Coffee House withlocal ing Indiansweets. pancakes), andthere’s apopular counter sell- fast onomelettes, (lentil-flour toastanddosas eateries are openfrom10amto10pm. thefollowing stated, snacks. Unlessotherwise puri cakes, potato samosas, serving Bazar dozens of Indianfast-food placesinMiddle As wellastheformalrestaurants, there are Eating to nonguests.There’s wifithroughout. atrium hasagorgeous barandrestaurant, open to moderncomfortswithinandthecentral in Shimla. Colonialgrandeuroutsidegives way green-and-white pileiseasilytheclassiestplace s/d fromUS$215/250; Hotel Combermere Combermere Hotel Mayur Hotel Doegar Hotel o Oberoi Cecil Hotel WillowBanks Hotel Baljee’s h (chickpeas andfriedbread) andother 8.30am-9pm)

( %

(The Mall; dishesRs15-100) Mall; (The Indian CoffeeHouse Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com (

2651002; Jakhu Rd;rRs1500-2500) 2651002; Jakhu % Overlooking ChristChurch,Overlooking

( ( % % 2804848; www.oberoicecil.com; The Mall; 2804848; www.oberoicecil.com;TheMall; ais AShimla institution,the 2652392; www.hotelmayur.com; 2811927; www.hoteldoegar.com;

( ( Behind acrazy-paved Behind % % After weeks of After weeks rough- 2658125; www.willowbanks 2561246; www.hotelcomb ) This spectacular Thisspectacular

(The Mall; dishesRs Mall; (The Opposite the channa With

HIMACHAL PRADESH

289 10am- 5538603; ; while ; while , aiding h % Above a Tibetan Han- Tibetan ( Jagson Airlines 9am-6pm) h Himachal Emporium The Shimla Ama- The Shimla Music World 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) 2650743; The Mall; 2652413; entry singles/couples Rs 2652413; entry singles/couples Rs Sharing the same build- Sharing 2805639) h % ( 2652413; Christ seats Rs 35- Church; % % ( (

% ( 208163; The Mall; (The Mall;Rs 60-150) dishes % , with an inconvenient 10kg bag- , with an inconvenient

10am-6pm). Fab India Fab from 7.30pm) ( h h , or boost your music collection with In- 2011234; The Mall; 2625177) Footloose Disco Ritz Cineplex Carpets, shawls and other Himachal Carpets, shawls and other Himachal Stock up on clothes made from vivid Indian Himani’s Gaiety Theatre This modern, multiplex cinema has oc- This modern, multiplex % % Getting There & Away Getting There & Away AIR Shimla, airport, 23km south of Jubbarhatti is served by the tiny aircraft of ( permitting, there Weather allowance. gage to Kullu (Bhuntar; flights from Shimla are and bangles. Fruit and veg are sold at the sold at the are and bangles. Fruit and veg the at the bottom of Sabzi Mandi heaving brand-name hill. For well-made, knock-off, behind market clothes, head to the Tibetan the tourist office. sold at the are souvenirs ( sold at the are souvenirs Tibetan dloom Shop refugees. Tibetan fabrics at dian CDs and DVDs at The Mall; 75) the amongst blockbusters casional imported standard Bollywood fare. Shopping to the bustling Lakkar head Domestic visitors Bazar to hagglewood and handloom for of will find more but foreigners souvenirs, in the crowded and atmospheric interest Middle Bazar, on the way down to the bus from station. You can buy everything here to henna kits tin pots and peacock feathers straight out of the 1980s. It’s male-dominated 1980s. It’s male-dominated the straight of out food is unfriendly, and the without being good, too. Entertainment entertainmentThe most popular is to stroll every- and watch and the Ridge along the Mall everyone else. one watching Even here. Dramatic Club puts on shows teur on, it’s worth taking no show a peek if there’s at the fabulous auditorium. snack bar, this neon and marble place is is place and marble bar, this neon snack 200/300; 8pm) ing, Shimla’s only nightclub rocks to Bolly- ing, Shimla’s on weekends. wood soundtracks till late )

A A n Run Skip Up some OK, it’s a OK, it’s a To eat out in 11am-11pm) Housed in a h India’s chain coffee coffee India’s chain (The Ridge; 30-100) dishes Rs (The Mall; Rs 30-100; dishes

(The Mall; dishes Rs 25-90)

(The Ridge; Rs 50-120) dishes from 10am)

PRADESH •• Shimla EASTERN HIMACHAL h (dishes Rs 30-100; (The Ridge; dishes from Rs 40) (The Mall; pizzas Rs 80-355)

2804848; The Mall; mains from Rs 400, set dinner (Ritz Cineplex, Christ Church; beers Rs 90) (The Mall; dishes Rs 100-200) 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm) % (

(The Mall; h The following places are good for a boozy The following places are Park CaféPark Café Sol Ashiana & Goofa Devicos Restaurant The Pub Cecil Domino’s Embassy Restaurant China Town Loveena Restaurant night out. bar, serving contemporary very a young, In- dian crowd. snack. café is a good spot for a hot drink and a café is a good spot for a hot drink and a tea at Barista, opposite the Town Hall. at Barista,tea the Town Hall. opposite shops have finally made their way to Shimla, their way to Shimla, finally made shops have so you can enjoy cappuccino and English-style Barista buffet. Drinking style, reserve a table at the Cecil is à – lunch evening an extravagant and there’s la carte Rs 780; mere, this place servesmere, menu that an upmarket a and Thai, and there’s to Japanese stretches dessert. for counter cake great glass bubble on the roof of the Hotel Comber- Hotel the of bubble on the roof glass Western fast-food chain, but travellers flock but travellers chain, fast-food Western dhal weeks home after of of for a taste here and rice in the hills. good food in reasonably classy surroundings good food in reasonably at Scandal Point. by HPTDC, these linked restaurants serve restaurants by HPTDC, these linked top of the lift, with good sandwiches and soup top of great are There and tastyhomemade cakes. views from the back room. A laid-back canteen-style restaurant near the restaurant canteen-style A laid-back Indian-Chinese dishes in a boxlike dining dining Indian-Chinese in a boxlike dishes murals. mock-Tibetan room full of tiny hole-in-the-wall place servingtiny hole-in-the-wall place superior Loveena is a clean and calm bolt hole to es- is a clean and calm bolt hole Loveena also Scandal Point. There’s cape the bustle of a moody saloon bar. staples. the fast-food stand at street level stand and head at street the fast-food for a decent restaurant for the downstairs Indian, Chinese and continental menu of dosas. dosas. office workers and civil servants, and workers office talking and cheap coffee of small cups over heatedly lonelyplanet.com Down some steps near the tourist office, the tourist office, near Down some steps steps from the Mall, this laid-back, studenty this laid-back, from the Mall, steps HIMACHAL PRADESH the bottom of the passenger lift. Set faresthe bottomof lift.Set thepassenger include thefollowing: Operators Union attheISBT,stand while The TAXI services. thetable, month inadvance. See below , for uptoa booking counter takes reservations (ISBT; large andchaotic of theRidge. north busstand, Bazar) small Rivoli(Lakkar Tattapani (Rs38,three hours) leave fromthe toChail(Rs35,2½hours)nel. Buses and at around8pmfromneartheVictoryTun- and Delhi(fromRs440,10hours) leaving toManaliseating) (fromRs415,10hours) private overnight deluxe (two-by-two buses The HPTDCandprivate travel agencies offer BUS airport willcostRs520. els hour) onMonday,WednesdayandFriday. US$122, 30minutes) andDelhi(US$137,one 290

Other government leave buses from the Bookings canbemadewith

BUSES FROMSHIMLA ( % eogPo 8 1 hourly 6daily 5daily 10 7 7daily 1daily(checklocallyfortime) regular 4daily 181 12 10 137 15min every 132 Sarahan 9 Sangla 181 197/300(ord/dlx) 260 Rohru 87 2½ 3 8 14 PeoRekong 100 Rampur 10 8.20am Departures Paonta Sahib 6 regular 50 Narkanda 4 hourly 5 102 Nahan 174 regular 2 112 Mandi 47 Manali 300 5 Kullu 167 7 Duration(hr) 6 Jammu hourly 85/178(ord/dlx) daily Hatkoti 79 Dharamsala 190 5 8½ Dharampur (forKasauli) Fare (Rs) 5 5 10 Delhi 215/516/685 regular Dehra Dun Dalhousie 270 Chandigarh 5pm Chamba 12 daily Destination daily (ord/dlx/AC) hourly daily 9 Kalka-Shimla Taxi Union Kalka-Shimla ATR IAHLPAEH • hma HIMACHALEASTERN PRADESH••Shimla % 2658014; The Mall; 2658014; TheMall; 2656326; Cart Rd) 2656326; Cart

( % 2805164) Inter State BusTerminal State Inter h . Thecomputerised 9am-6pm) Vishal Himachal Taxi Himachal Vishal

( % operates from 2658225) Ambassador Trav- . A taxi tothe . Ataxi hasits

travel instyle,catch theposh 6.15pm, returning at6amand8.30am.To class) rundownhilltoKalka at2.25pmand 9am to5pmdaily. isopen Rd.Theleft-luggage office on Cart is1.5kmwestoftrain station ScandalPoint it creeps thehills.Tiny upthrough Shimla 103tunnelsas scenic trip,passingthrough thesteamthough trainsare longgone,it’sa from Kalka, justnorthof Chandigarh.Al- byanarrow-gauge toytrain Shimla isserved TRAIN eogPo 3400 3300 Tattapani 1020 2600 Sarahan PeoRekong 3200/3500 1020 Narkanda Naldehra 520 2700 Manali Kullu 2400 950 Kasauli Dharamsala/McLeod Ganj Dehra Dun 1170 Chandigarh Chail 1020 520 Airport Destination One-way Fare (Rs) Ordinary trains(Rs36/228in2nd/1st lonelyplanet.com Shivalik Ex- HIMACHAL PRADESH A with 291 The only Uphill towards Uphill wildlife park Next door to the Next door to 272005; d from Rs 1200) 230853; r without/with bath- 230853; r without/with masseur. masseur.

% ( %

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248349; r Rs 150-300) (r Rs 220-300) 272052; [email protected]; r Rs % 230749; r Rs 100-500) 230749; (

% The best choice here, with a good with a good here, The best choice (

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( A rare cheap option in Kasauli, with in Kasauli, option cheap A rare 01792 / elev 2150m 01792 / elev 1850m Hotel Ros Common Rainbow Resort Spring View Hotel There is no direct bus to Kasauli from from bus to Kasauli is no direct There deer and birds. SLEEPING Hotel Pineview rooms Shared value. OK but still hardly great hot water. bucket have hot water. hot water. Chail % 65km south of Chail, of The hilltop village Patiala of by the maharaja was created Shimla, as his summer capital, he was expelled after a little too friendly for getting from Shimla military the British with the daughter of Chail overs, commander! If you fancy a few several ‘world’s highesthas one of cricket As grounds’, a 3km walk from the village. a strolls, there’s well as forest Kasauli Kasauli % of on a hillside 75km southwest Perched is another former Raj retreat Kasauli Shimla, sent It has several amongst the pines. Raj- peaceful walks era buildings and numerous over grand views offering through the forest plains. the Punjabi bus from a southbound catch instead Shimla; to a local bus at Dhar- and change Shimla ampur. SLEEPING Hotel Anchal 400-850) for bucket so-so rooms and modest views. Ask SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING Trimurti Inn this place could use a lick of the new bridge, bright and cheerful. are paint but rooms this place also has a private Hotel, Spring View some simple and rooms are bathing block; the river. look towards room Rs 250/300) and its own bathing pools above restaurant Raftingthe beach. and there’s can be arranged Ayurvedica resident budget accommodation in town, this place is budget charming HPTDC heritage hotel in a small in a small hotel HPTDC heritage charming that gardens colonial bungalow, set in lovely tea. for afternoon great are

at at ) was 0177- , set a Naldehra % ( connect- is an up- •• Around Shimla PRADESH EASTERN HIMACHAL 0177-2747739; green 0177-2747739; green trains to and from trains to and service connects 7am-6pm Mar-Nov) % (

Himalayan Queen Queen Himalayan h Hotel Golf Glade 0177-2480171; r from Rs 2200; golf course % has an old colonial church and has an old colonial church 8am-10pm, till 9pm low season) (

Himalayan Queen Himalayan h Himalayan Queen Himalayan

at 5.40pm (returning at 5.30am; Rs 280, at 5.30am; (returning at 5.40pm (Rs 7; 01907 / elev 656m Mashobra

At the golf course, At the golf course, About 15km north of Mashobra, Mashobra, 15km north of About Reached by a drawbridge, the huge white white the huge by a drawbridge, Reached

The September (Rs 900 per day). caves and former palaces. White-water rafting and former palaces. White-water caves expeditions along the Sutlej run from June to spill out onto a sandy river beach. The vil- beach. spill out onto a sandy river to the cult of has several linked lage temples and you can walk to holy Rishi Jamdagam, of the Sutlej River, sleepy Tattapani is known sleepy Tattapani River, the Sutlej of sulphurous springs, which for its steaming % on the banks 30km below Naldehra About Tattapani Tattapani rooms and warm log huts, arranged around rooms and warm log huts, arranged and bar. an inviting restaurant market HPTDC property offering smart hotel smart hotel property offering HPTDC market scented walks. scented fees Rs 250, club hire Rs 250; Rs 250, club hire fees for Ponies can be hired amongst the cedars. pine- more are and there along the ridge treks Hotel Gables Lord Lytton, Viceroy of a former residence and the views are plush Rooms are India. of sublime. some pleasant walks among deodar trees. some pleasant walks among deodar trees. About 12km north of Shimla, the small village the small village Shimla, 12km north of About of Shimla to Tattapani Shimla to Tattapani See p289 for information on buses for and taxis p289 See towns. to the following from Shimla AROUND SHIMLA AROUND SHIMLA has a famous lift The only way to get around central Shimla around central Shimla The only way to get a two-part there’s is on foot. Fortunately, Getting Around Getting Around Delhi (Rs 329/97 in chair car/2nd class). The car/2nd in chair Delhi (Rs 329/97 Nizammudin stationtrain from Delhi’s leaves at 5.30am. with the 12.10pm (returning at 10.30am; Rs 167, chair chair at 10.30am; Rs 167, 12.10pm (returning prices include food. 1st-class car only). All press the only) or 1st class Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book ing the east end of the Mall with Cart Rd, a the Mall ing the east end of from Taxis the ISBT. walk above five-minute the lift cost the train station to the bottom of about Rs 60. 2747809; d Rs 1000-1200, huts Rs 1500-5000) HIMACHAL PRADESH also onfixed dates. all-inclusive 14-dayskicourses forUS$240, bus between Shimlabus between andDehra Dun, butthe Nahan onthe Most tourists justflashthrough % Nahan of Jubbal. built bytheformerRana west, which hasafancifulslate-roofed palace 10km northof Hatkoti towards Rohru. Chanshal Hotel atthe able atthetemple oryoucanstay April andOctober. ’quarters are avail- Chaitra Navratra andAsvin Navratra festivals in large numbers of Shaivite pilgrimsduringthe Kinnauri style,theslate-roofed temples attract founded inthe8thcenturyAD.Builtclassic of thevalley,Durga temple at inrollingfieldsatthemouth public bus.Set bar Valley iseasilyaccessiblefrom Shimla by Running northeasttoKinnaur,thecalmPab- % Valley Pabbar après-ski. snug roomsandarestaurant andbarforsome of thecentre, thisgovernment-run placehas .in; dRs700-1300) views. rant andlarge, wornroomswithmountain alpine mood,aninviting,dark-woodrestau- the mainroad,thisgenial placehasasuitably Palace Mahamaya Hotel SLEEPING &EATING Sports himachaltourism.nic.in fordates. http:// and tuition,butnottransport–see including accommodation,meals,equipment offers skiingpackages seven-day forRs4955, forms intoamodest stop town,butfromJanuary toMarch ittrans- northeast, Narkandaisanondescripttruck- Halfway tothe Shimla between andRampur, % Narkanda you’d expectfromaformermaharaja’s palace. lawns, thishotel hasalltheimmodestluxury in28hectares ofstone mansion,set immaculate .in; rfromRs1200,ste3700; 292 Local buses connectHatkotiLocal buses to Hatu HPTDC Hotel Manali’s HPTDC Palace Hotel 01702 01781 /elev1400m 01782 /elev2708m ATR IAHLPAEH • inu aly Valley HIMACHALEASTERN PRADESH••Kinnaur ( % in Narkanda 242406;www.dmas.gov.in)in Narkanda Directorate of Mountaineering &Allied ofMountaineering Directorate ( % Off themainroad,justeast Off 240661; dmRs75,dwithAC700-800)

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% 242430; hotelhatu@sancharnet ski resort ski 248141; hptdcchail@sancharnet 242448; rRs400-800) a Agrand,grey- ) . TheHPTDC Jubbal Hatkoti runs HPTDC HPTDC , 29km On was was , including honour thegoddessRenukaji. festival ( p283 ) isheldhere in November to to findaroomanywhere inthearea. to paytheirrespects atthesprawling guru. the 10thSikh pilgrimsflockhereSikh as thechildhood homeof GuruGobindSingh, (Uttaranchal) border,Paonta Sahibisfamous thetouristtrackonUttarakhand Well off % Sahib Paonta to Renukalake orPaonta Sahib. to Renukalake. Taxis charge aroundRs500 of30, 30minutes), start the30-minute walk (Rs 34,1½hours) (Rs andDadahu/Dosarka in town. thebestfood hereMilan Restaurant serves Rs 250/450) by themaidan,and Indian families.Theweek-long (Renuka lake) isapopularpicnicspotfor in thetowncentre. lake) (Rani ceremonially bathedinRanital Hindu godsare thestreets ledthrough and Dwadshi the daysof therajas. Duringthe a proud, Aryan people who mainly survive a proud, Aryanpeoplewho mainlysurvive famous export. TheKinnauris, or Kinners, are of appletrees thatprovide Himachal’s most with slate-roofed temples andvastorchards naur, providing villages accesstomountain runs northeastfromShimla Kin- through British asasneakyinvasionroute intoTibet) The oldHindustan–Tibet Hwy (built bythe KINNAUR VALLEY hours). (Rs 34,1½hours) andDelhi(Rs140, seven vices toDehra Dun(Rs35,twohours), Nahan dailyser- hours) andseveral (Rs 137,seven there’s agoodrestaurant andbar. hotel –unexcitingbutwelllooked after, and with ACfromRs1100; ple, Holi festival muna River. Thetownoverflows duringthe Gurdwara Sahib with crumblingtemples andbuildingsfrom cobbled streets of theoldtownare crammed About anhourbybusfromNahan, On theriverside about100mfromthetem- There are decenthotels inNahan, several There are frequent toPaonta buses Sahib There are toShimla hourlymorningbuses 01704 HPTDC Hotel YamunaHPTDC Hotel attheendof themonsoon,idolsof , justaroundthecorner. Theopen-air Hotel Renuka Hotel inMarch, whenitcanbedifficult Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com on thebanksof theholyYa- a Hotel Regency Hotel ) is a standard HPTDC isastandard

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% Renuka Mela Renuka 223302; s/d Bhawan Renukjia Renukjia Paonta

HIMACHAL PRADESH 7am- 293 Dumgir h 234103; r from Rs down in the down %

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( p283 ) is held yearly in ) p283 ( A standard HPTDC prop- Down some concrete steps, steps, Down some concrete Lavi Fair Sri Narain Temple Sat on the main road recalls Kinnaur’s road recalls on the main and Lankra Vir Temple , built from layers of stone and timber stone and of , built from layers 01782 / elev 1920m 01782 / elev 1920m The huge The huge There are some strict entry rules. Male visi- some strict entry rules. Male are There HPTDC Hotel Regency Satluj View Guesthouse weaponry, and across the courtyard is the weaponry, and across the courtyard is the squat carried out right up to the 18th fices were buses run to Sangla (Rs 80, five hours). hours). buses 80, five run to Sangla (Rs Sarahan % the Bushahr The former summer capital of by the fabu- is dominated Sarahan kingdom, lous 8pm) are There earthquakes. to absorb the force of one built in the 12th century, here, two towers and a newer tower from the 1920s containing (the local shrine to Bhimakali a highly revered beneath a beautiful silver- Kali) of version canopy. filigree can be borrowed must wear a cap (which tors shoesinside the temple), must be removed, smoking is banned, and cameras and leather left with belts and wallets must be goods like the guards. Behind is a small dis- the temple horns, lamps and ancient ceremonial play of just uphill from the bus station,just uphill from the bus this place has rooms on severaltatty levels. The but cheap but has good food and cold beers, restaurant almost comically bad service. 600, with AC from Rs 900) Rampur, of edge combin- erty on the western out space to spread ing rooms with plenty of with slightly lacka- and a decent restaurant daisical service. GETTING THERE & AWAY Rampur’s bus station has frequent chaotic and hours) services (Rs 84, five to Rekong Peo via Narkanda hours) (Rs 100, five to Shimla Buses to Sarahan (Rs 32, hours). (Rs 51, three daily Three every two hours. leave two hours) Mandir gaudy modern The bazaar. riverside Budh Temple Buddhist past. tra- attracting the second November, week of villages. from remote and pilgrims ders EATING SLEEPING & Rampur popular liquor stop for truck is a some crummy options are so there drivers, range. in the budget bathroom Rs 200-275) Raghu- Purohit was built PRADESH •• Kinnaur EASTERN HIMACHAL Valley Padam Palace Padam hats. on the highway and the

thepang thepang 01782 / elev 1005m A BAD TIME TO VISIT KINNAUR… A BAD TIME TO VISIT KINNAUR… Most of the time, Kinnaur is peaceful and calm, but all that goes out the window dur- celebrations in Septem- Puja ing the Durga is the main holiday season This ber/October. in Bengal and thousands of holidaymakers Simul- flood into Kinnaur from the plains. taneously, the annual apple harvest lures of fruit wholesalers from across hundreds It can be impossible to find a room India. and in Kinnaur, from Rekong Peo anywhere If Kalpa to the far end of the Sangla Valley. you do end up stuck without a room, you’ll dormi- to search for a bed in a drivers’ have tory or try your luck at local shops. With an easy-to-obtain inner line permit

If you decide to stick around, the delightful, For more information on the Kinnaur the Kinnaur information on For more nath Temple in 1925 for the maharaja of Bushahr; only the of in 1925 for the maharaja several are There garden is open to visitors. the stone including ancient temples, terraced and turreted and turreted terraced in the bazaar that cascades downhill from in the bazaar that cascades downhill from the highway. atmosphere, particularly for single women. atmosphere, below the bus stand, Most places to stay are Rekong Peo. Many drunk truck drivers stop truck drivers drunk Many Rekong Peo. a threatening quite creating overnight, here town was once the capital of the Bushahr rajas. the Bushahr rajas. town was once the capital of Today, Rampur change is mainly a place to to from Shimla the journey buses or break % to Kinnaur, this nondescript The gateway Rampur Rampur Valley, visit the local government website at website the local government visit Valley, http://hpkinnaur.nic.in. open all the way to Tabo, but there’s no telling no telling but there’s open all the way to Tabo, locally how long it will stay that way – check Rekong Peo. of north travelling before river on precarious ropeways to complete their ropeways to complete on precarious river writing, the road was journey. At the time of most of the last decade, the road has been the last decade, most of Spiti – forc- and between Peo Rekong blocked buses cross the and to change ing travellers (see the boxed text, p296 ) you can travel north north ) you can travel p296 text, (seeboxed the ). For p341 to the mountain Spiti ( deserts of felt from farming and apple growing. You can You apple growing. farming and from green by their India all over Kinners recognise Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book HIMACHAL PRADESH Rs 700) good place to see traditionalKinnauri archi- good place tosee electric Project. It’s stillapretty spotanda the damsandbarrages of the Hydro- Baspa Himalaya’ buttoday thevalleyismarred by scribed as‘themost beautifulvalleyinthe The ValleySangla, orBaspa, tobede- used % Sangla Valley way/return. from Jeori toSarahancostRs300/500one local bustoSarahan(Rs13,45minutes). Taxis Jeori (Rs 76,fourhours), andchange toa two hours. FromRekongPeo, take abusto (Rs32,twohours) every fromRampur buses hours),Sarahan (Rs132,eight orthere are Three direct plydailyfromShimla buses to THERE&AWAYGETTING paying for. Pricierroomshave viewsworth pets andTVs. owners andcompactroomswiththickcar- Small butwellformed,Trehan’s hasfriendly andthere’s arestaurant. but noTV, Roomshaveseason. carpetsandhotshowers touristsandvery busyin popular withBengali the mainroadpasttemple, thisplaceis valley fromtheupperfloors. restaurant andpanoramicviewsacrossthe with tastefully decorated rooms,arespectable hot water. rooms are more basic,butallbathroomshave have intricate wood-panelledceilings.Dorm ple precinct andthemore expensive chambers 300) offer significantdiscountsoutof season. allhotelsApart fromthetemple guesthouse, SLEEPING &EATING behind theBhimakali Temple. palace on theslopesof in Gharatvillage, forthetreks orgirdyourself ing hills–strolldownhilltothe buffaloes. to Bhimakali, includinggoats,chickens and where amenagerie of animalsissacrificed in theAstomi ritualduring century. Thetraditionlives form oninatamer 294 Trehan’s Guesthouse Trehan’s Sagrika Hotel HPTDC Hotel Srikhand HPTDC Hotel Temple Guesthouse There are peacefulwalksinthesurround- 01786 /elev2680m Rooms here formpartof theancienttem- ATR IAHLPAEH • inu aly Valley HIMACHALEASTERN PRADESH••Kinnaur Classier thanmostHPTDCproperties, of thelastmaharaja of Bushahrisjust

( % Bashal Peak 274491; rRs400-700)

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( ( % % 274248; dmRs25,r150- 274234; dmRs75,rfrom 274205; rRs500-600) . Theflamboyant Dussehra Buddhist gompa Nearbyon ( p283),

for bookings. Camps Camps Across thegullyandbackingontoapple Puja. that allhotels are booked solidduringDurga andOctober. inSeptember ist season Note Ask aboutdiscountsoutsideof themaintour- Sleeping &Eating September. in ( p283) the centrepiece of theannual dhist temples. The andHinduBud- the oldstonehouses for. Walkdowntothelowervillage toadmire and quietthatthevalleywasoncefamous have toheadintothehillsfindpeace spoiled–yet!butyou’ll hasn’t quite been hotels are corner. springinguponevery It arehouses beingrebuilt inconcrete andnew ing Sanglabeyondallrecognition. Wooden ischang-pristine valley,buthydroelectricity and slate-roofed temples lookingoutover a villageonce afairy-tale of lowwoodenhouses The largest village inthevalley,Sanglawas SANGLA plant. hydroelectric passing thegushing cham ontheRekongPeo–Shimla highway, mein, fried riceandIndian snacks. dumplings), ‘Tibetan restaurants’ serving www.banjaracamps.com; s/dtentRs3500/3900) River Baspa –contact operate all-inclusive tented campsalongthe great valleyviews. and theshared terrace andbalconieshave inpeacefulgardens.Roomsareis set spotless the bridge intoSangla,thiscute stonechalet good viewsfromtheupperfloors. a range of carpeted roomswithhotwater and obvious love forthecolourgreen, offers Baspa 1000) showers. running hotwater andbuckets ratherthan and asunnyfrontlawn.Cheaperroomshave orchards, MountKailash hasagentle mood hair-raising roadtothevalleybeginsatKar- to get of areal peaceandisolation.The sense tecture, toheadnorthSpiti butyou need Hotel Mount Kailash MountKailash Hotel The bus stand hashalfadozen identical The busstand Sangla Resort Baspa Guesthouse From April to October, several companies From ApriltoOctober, several Runbyagenial Kinnaurifamilywithan ( % 242382; [email protected]; tentRs2500) 242382; [email protected]; Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com thukpa ( % 242201; rRs600-800)

( % Bering NagTempleBering (noodle soup),chow outflow pipesfromthe ( Banjara Camps % 242206; rRs350-660,ste 242527; rRs300-1000) momos Phulech FestivalPhulech Justbelow ( or

% (Tibetan forms Kinner Kinner 242536;

HIMACHAL PRADESH 295 222897; 222897; Above

(per hr Rs (per hr Rs % ( (Mahabodhi (Mahabodhi A smart white hotel hotel A smart white upstairs. upstairs. Raj Internet Café 222048; r from Rs 250) below the bazaar provides below the bazaar provides % (

is the only place to check is the only place to check dhaba dhaba (r Rs 350-700) 9.30am-7pm) Tourist Information Centre 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) h There is nowhere to change money here. money here. to change is nowhere There Hotel Snow View Ridang Hotel Known to locals as ‘Peo’, the town is spread spread the town is Known to locals as ‘Peo’, in the main bazaar, with a good restaurant and in the main bazaar, with a good restaurant some carpeted tidy rooms, large of a range and all with TV. concrete steps connects the bus stand connects the bus and steps concrete of bazaar, passing through fragrant groves wild marijuana. The h line inner arranges local information and . Uphill p296 text, permits – see the boxed from the bus stand, 60; email. SLEEPING & EATING the main bazaar. in Most places to stay are a shopping arcade in the bazaar, this noisy plain rooms with option has just a handful of bathroom windows that look onto the valley. a cheap There’s hub, but there’s little to delay the traveller traveller to delay the little there’s hub, but the permit to arrange takes than it for longer A steep in Spiti. to Tabo travel for onward is the town near the radio mast walk above Kinnaur Kalachakra Celestial Palace - a 10m-highGompa), with statue of Kai- views across to Kinner muni and great stay, the bus uphill take For a longer lash. to Kalpa. 10km above about out along a looping road are Hwy. Most hotels the Hindustan–Tibet at the bottom of around the main bazaar bus stand.town or uphill from the A set of PRADESH •• Kinnaur EASTERN HIMACHAL Valley (3050m), 14km (3450m), the last (3450m), the last was the former capital Rakcham Chitkul , the former home of the , the former home of Kamru (kings) of Bushahr (shoes and leather (kings) of Although hydroelectricity is one of the cleanest sources of energy, the effect on the landscape on the landscape the effect Although hydroelectricity is one of the cleanest sources of energy, 01786 / elev 2290m WHAT PRICE HYDROELECTRICITY? PRICE HYDROELECTRICITY? WHAT corners of Himachal hydroelectricity Kinnaur Pradesh. Then of the quietest was one Until 2002, dams and turbine stations now harnesses the by storm. A series of vast concrete took the state power to Himachal of the surround- Pradesh and most providing mighty force of the Sutlej River, power plant, capable of generating Nathpa Jhakri power station is India’s largest The ing states. similar half a dozen are stations – and there 1500 megawatts – equivalent to two nuclear power facilities strung out along the Sutlej and Baspa Rivers. dams and coffer giant been sacrificed to create Whole valleys have of Kinnaur has been dramatic. out of enormous concrete mountains now surges past forested that once flowed serenely water flooded Kinnaur projects many villages to demolish their with money, leading have The pipes. Other vanished and steel. villages have in concrete traditional wood and stone houses and rebuild minimal compensation. been offered beneath reservoirs, and displaced villagers have completely for Kinnauris, the loss of natural the quality of life While hydroelectricity is undeniably improving for generations. habitats and cultural heritage will be felt Further up the valley from Sangla are the Further up the valley from Sangla are Share jeeps can take you to Karcham (Rs jeepsKarcham you to can take Share % cen- is the main administrative Rekong Peo for Kinnaur and an important transport tre quieter than Sangla, both are being developed than Sangla, both are quieter as resorts. Rekong Peo from Sangla, and Although to Tibet. stops on the old trade route smaller villages of of smaller villages thakurs thakurs and heads must be should be removed items by a sealed road is reached Kamru covered). startingthrough apple and walnut orchards, into Sangla. the bridge just west of Kamakhya Devi Fort modernising rapidly but there are some im- are there modernising rapidly but and stone houses slate and temples. pressive the tower-style by is dominated The village the village of of the village is The village Bushahr. the kingdom of of AROUND SANGLA AROUND SANGLA Sangla, 2km above Clinging to a rocky spur 30, two hours), on the main Shimla–Rekong on the main Shimla–Rekong 30, two hours), a day trip to take Alternatively, bus route. Peo for jeep from Rekong Peo the valley by share Rs 1500 to Rs 2000. 6.30am and 1.30pm. 6.30am and Local buses (Rs run up the valley to Chitkul at at noon and 5pm, returning 30, two hours) 6.30am, 10am and noon, or there are four four are and noon, or there 6.30am, 10am hours). (Rs 30, three daily buses Rekong Peo to Getting There & Away Away & There Getting Busesrun to Rampur at hours) (Rs 80, five Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book HIMACHAL PRADESH but fornow thisremains oneof themost isbringingmany changes toKalpa, % Kalpa Rs 3500toShimla. Rs 1500to2000foradaytripSangla and (Rs 200)orshared (Rs30).Taxis taxi charge 30 minutes), oryoucantake achartered taxi route. boxed text, above . See p345 formore onthis line permittotravel the onthisroute –see leaves forTabo aninner at4pm.Youneed and Tabo (Rs130,10hours). bus Asecond 165, 12hours) viaNako(Rs78,five hours) (Rs 47,onehour). bus headingsouthandchange atKarcham 4pm (Rs30,three hours) oryoucantake any Sangla there are direct at9.30amand buses (Rs84,five hours).hours) To andRampur 10 hours), viaJeori (forSarahan;Rs76,four police compoundatthetopof ITBPRd. by roador500mthesteps bythe thatstart is2kmfromthemainbazaar The busstand THERE&AWAYGETTING above-average Indianfood. coldbeers, pegsof whiskyand cosy barserves ofstart thesteps this upto thebusstand, bazaar. value formoney. Inn Shambhala Hotel alickofbathroom, butallcoulduse paint. allhavebus stand; roomswithgeysers inthe 296 There are heaps of cheap There are more cheapies uphillfromthe Local buses runfrequentlyLocal buses toKalpa (Rs7, For Spiti,there’s a7.30ambustoKaza (Rs There are toShimla (Rs181, hourlybuses Mehefil Hotel Sumdo. atthecheckpointsinJangi andpassport You’ll have toshowthepermitwithyour arrangementsthroughyourhotel.make Alternatively,pages fromyourpassport. and photocopiesoftheidentityvisa photos150. You’llneedtwopassport the touristofficeinRekongPeo forRs in Spiticanbeobtainedonedayfrom Inner linepermitsallowingtravel toTabo INNER LINEPERMITS 01786 /elev2960m ( % ATR IAHLPAEH • inu aly Valley HIMACHALEASTERN PRADESH••Kinnaur 223477; dmRs50,r300-350) ( (ITBP Rd;mainsRs30-130) % 222858; rRs300-350) dhabas are decent and Near the in the Sairag View looksoutover orchards. It’samodern fieldsabovethrough thevillage, cosyKailash shared/private bathroomfromRs250/300) shared/private are simplebutcleanandwellcared for. Rooms flowery gardenfacingthemountains. past theBlueLotusHotel, thiscottage hasa Nov-Mar) times. ber/October) andoffer discountsatother (Septem- ing theDurga Pujaholidayseason The followinghotels are booked soliddur- SLEEPING &EATING Festival of thevillage aspartof theannual October villagers pilewildflowers inthecentre temple temple complex,plusacolourful Kinnauri-style temples inthe home of Shiva, andthere are someimpressive hotels ontheridge above town. village, plusagrowingnumberof modern there inthe are simpleguesthouses several ing orchards provide fancy-free walksand views acrosstoKinnerKailash. Thesurround- spread outover aridge withbreathtaking ofis apleasingstraggle slate-roofed houses winding roadabove RekongPeo, thevillage peaceful villages inKinnaur. Reached bya path rather thanthewinding road. tered) or walk –followthewell-worn stepped (Rs30/200shared/char-you cantake ataxi Kalpa andRekongPeo (Rs7,30minutes), or thedaybetween runthroughout Minibuses THERE&AWAYGETTING down totheBuddhisttemple. Lotus orthestringof heated lounges facingthevalleyforwinter. Rooms have magnificentviewsand there are Villa isagenuinely tasteful country retreat. chards andfarmlandbeyondKalpa, Kinner Reached or- viaasteep 1kmwalkthrough the mountains. wide, sunnyterrace facingdirectly acrossto has abetter-than-average restaurant and a thisneatmidrangeto thebusstand, place feel. building butthesimpleroomshave avillagey Kailash View Guesthouse View Kailash For meals,trytherestaurant attheBlue Villa Kinner Hotel Chini Bungalow According tolegend, thiswasthewinter Hotel BlueLotus Hotel atthetopof thevillage. InSeptember/ Signposted upthelanebranching right (p283). Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

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226385; rRs250-450; ( 226001; rfromRs500) % dhabas 226006; rRs900-1500)

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HIMACHAL PRADESH

) A 297 a Rani Amrit (temple (temple Panch Bahk-Panch Behind the (mains Rs 40-150; (mains Rs 40-150; around Indira around Indira 222401; www.rajma 225123; r with cold/hot sikharas % ( %

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dhabas dhabas (Indira Market; dishes Rs 25-130) A few doors up, this is a doors A few

mandirs, facing each other each facing mandirs, 224221; r Rs 200-400) , decorated with paintings of paintings of with , decorated mandir, near the British-built the British-built mandir, near % (

The best choice in town, set The best choice ro- with superb views and the colourful views and the colourful with superb Triloknath 7am-11pm) Shiva Hotel Evening Standard Hotel and Treat Restaurant Raj Mahal Garden Restaurant Raj Mahal Hotel Palace Perched at the top of Tarna Hill is Hill is Tarna at the top of Perched avenue of carved of stone avenue Getting There & Away Getting There & Away BUS in the east- The bus station is across the river Rewalsar town. Local buses run to ern part of hourly until early evening. (Rs 18, 1½ hours) long-distance) for details of p298 See the table ( bus services. as a whistle. There’s also a fabulous restaurant also a fabulous restaurant There’s as a whistle. in the garden. Eating plenty of are There Market. this small the market, On the ground floor of but rather swish place serves up Chinese and South Indian food in air-conditioned surroundings. h with a at the Raj Mahal, mantically under trees excellent indoor and outdoor dining, of choice food and a fully licensed bar. All the hotels are around Indira Market. Market. around Indira are All the hotels the or- front rooms overlook expensive more square. market derly bustle in the central clean rooms with offering cheapie reliable Again, TVs moneychanger. and a resident best. rooms are front-facing halpalace.com; r from Rs 440, with AC from Rs 880; to its rightful as the best place to stay position the main palace in behind Tucked in Mandi. bright, cosy and clean buildings, the rooms are towers). Most impressive are the are Most impressive towers). tar Also worth seeking out is the the river. across Akardash Rudar the Beas. over bridge Kaur Park Syamakali Temple Kali. incarnations of the various bloodthirsty an town or take You can walk the 5km from autorickshaw (Rs 40). Sleeping shower from Rs 275/330) market is this modest but inexpensive hotel. hotel. modest but inexpensive is this market and bar, and the a small restaurant There’s timely refurb has restored this historic hotel this historic hotel has restored timely refurb (per hr Rs •• Mandi PRADESH CENTRAL HIMACHAL and a long , dating from Xpert Net ( p283 ) in February, Hanuman Bhutnath Mandir is upstairs near the SBI Bank, near the SBI is upstairs Shivaratri Festival 10am-10pm)

01905 / pop 27,400 / elev 800m 01905 / pop 27,400 / elev h If you follow Bhutnath Bazar to the river, BazarIf you follow Bhutnath to the river,

There’s nowhere to change travellers travellers to change nowhere There’s For more information on Kullu district, For more with a giant statue of with a giant statue of you’ll find bathing ghats (steps or landings) you’ll find bathing ghats (steps animated animated honouring Lord Shiva. of them spread out along the river. The The out along the river. them spread of brightly painted Mandi is crammed with stone temples, most is crammed with stone temples, Mandi opposite the road to the Raj Mahal. the road to the Rajopposite Mahal. Sights & Activities 30; cheques, but the SBI Bank near Indira Mar- but the SBI cheques, Plaza Evening and the Hotel has an ATM ket cash. US dollars can change ride away. trated along the river. The bus stand is on the along the river. trated the Beas,east side of a Rs 10 autorickshaw the 7th century AD, is the focal point for the plex called Indira Market, arranged around a arranged plex called Indira Market, Most places to stay and garden square. pretty concen- are nearby, while the temples eat are Orientation & Information Orientation & Information shopping com- on a sunken is centred Mandi and Prashar. official figures – and you can do a day trip official figures at Rewalsar into the hills to visit the holy lakes Shaivite temples – at least 81 according to temples Shaivite large Sikh a sticky air remin- community and large around the the plains. Sprawling iscent of the Beas confluence of and the Suketi River with ancient the town is dotted Khad stream, feels more Punjabi than Himalayan, with a Punjabi than Himalayan, with a more feels

% on the saltFormerly a trading stop to route to the Kullu Val- is the gateway Mandi Tibet, the main roads from ley and the junction of The town and Pathankot. Kullu, Chandigarh MANDI MANDI hpkullu.nic.in. to Lahaul, Spiti and Ladakh. Parvati Valleys are popular with hippies, hon- popular are Parvati Valleys peo- junkies. Many adrenaline and eymooners La Rohtang (3978m) north over ple continue Running north towards Lahaul,Running north Kullu and the PRADESH PRADESH CENTRAL HIMACHAL HIMACHAL CENTRAL Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book see and http:// www.kullu.net the websites HIMACHAL PRADESH gompa. shared/private bathroom Rs80/200) shared/private water isincluded. ters forpilgrimsand nonpilgrims.Bucket hot at thered gompahassimple butcosyquar- r withshared bathroom Rs100-200) comfort. looking forspiritualratherthan physical but cleanroomsappealtoBuddhist pilgrims Nyingmapa GompaGuesthouse Sleeping &Eating (per hrRs20; also walkhere from thelakeshore). allegedly (youcan meditated cluding the temples and viewpointsaroundthelake, in- penance here asadedicationtoShiva. to thesage RishiLomas,whowasforcedtodo are anumberof small hill above thelake. Onthefarside of thelake Padmasambhava isunderconstructiononthe ofstatues Tantric of statue deities.A12m-high white 3.30pm. Uphillfromthelake isthetowering pujas mapa Gompa direction, the of inthe 1930s.Intheother GobindSingh yond isthepaleblue and alarge centralSakyamunistatue. Justbe- active the ochre-red aroundthelakeshore,right where you’llfind ethnic cleansingbytheMughals. 17th centurytoplantheirresistance against cametogetherBuddhists andSikhs here inthe AD tospread BuddhismtoTibet, andHindus, hava departedinthe8thcentury fromRewalsar TheIndianmonkPadmasamb-dus andSikhs. lake of isreveredRewalsar byBuddhists, Hin- Around 24kmsouthwestof Mandi, thesacred % REWALSAR LAKE Valley andGreat HimalayanNational Park. Rs 1500perdayforlonger tripstotheBanjar return triptoRewalsar. topayaround Expect airportandRs500fora Rs 600toBhuntar Taxis charge atthebusstation Rs900toKullu, TAXI 298 You cancheck emailat driversLocal taxi canarrange tours toother Dribung Kagyud GompaGuesthouse Kagyud Dribung A countryroadwindsuptothelake and 01905 /elev1350m ETA IAHLPAEH • easrLk CENTRAL HIMACHAL Lake PRADESH••Rewalsar (prayer ceremonies) ataround7amand Zigar Drukpa Kagyud Institute Zigar DrukpaKagyud h hasartfulmuralsandatmospheric Buddha Cave Buddha Cave 8am-8.30pm) Debung Kagyud Gompa Debung Kagyud (Tibetan clothpainting)school Tso-Pema Ogyen Heru-kai Nying- Heru-kai Ogyen Tso-Pema gurdwara Hindu temples temples Hindu , neartheNyingmapa on theridge, where The guesthouse Theguesthouse Tso-Pema Internet Internet Tso-Pema

These austere These ( builtinhonour % , withoutsized 240226; rwith ( % dedicated , withan 240364; of thesagePrashar Rishi. Prashar isan8km Temple home tothestriking,pagoda-style and Bajaura isscenic style temple isalarger version of theclassichut- the 8th centuryADandintricately carved, stone temple intheKulluValley. Builtinthe of Bajaura isthe About 15kmsouthof Kullunearthevillage MANDI TOKULLU fromMandiA taxi costsRs500return. (Rs 18,1½hours), makingforaneasydaytrip. Frequent fromMandi gotoRewalsar buses Getting There&Away thukpa by theNyingmapagompa–good isthe dhist restaurants. Best rooms gleam. ern placeisBuddhistrunandthetidy,tiled toHotel thistasteful mod- Rewalsar, Close pennies inthedorm. orsaverun hotel stand, afew nearthetaxi ing over theoldbuildingatthisbigHPTDC- bldg Rs200,innew350-550) 6km tothevillage of few simplehotels, andyoucanhike thesteep unspoiled villages. Thetownof jar Valley times atthebusstand). Bajaura road,accessible bylocalbus(askfor walk fromthevillage of Kandi ontheMandi– Hotel Lotus Lake LotusLake Hotel Rewalsar HPTDC Hotel Southeast of Mandi isthelittle-visited There are several Hidden away in the hills between MandiHidden awayinthehillsbetween eh 7/0 1 10daily half-hourly hourly 6 Shimla 112 6 87 Manali 12 daily half-hourly 1 4 Kullu 55 6 275/500 half-hourly Dharamsala 102 10 2½ 2 (ord/dlx) 30 daily Delhi half-hourly 6 140 Chandigarh 50 Bhuntar airport Aut (Rs) Destination Fare Duration LONG-DISTANCE BUSESFROMMANDI Departures (hr) sikhara , builtinthe14thcenturyhonour goforaroundRs35. , offering peacefulwalksandtripsto Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com seen alloverseen theKulluValley. Basheshar Mahadev ( % dhabas

( Chaini % 240239; r & TV Rs200-500) 240239; r&TV Pickthenewbuild- 240252; dmRs75,dinold andsimpleBud- to see oneof the to see Topchen Restaurant Topchen Restaurant Banjar momos , thelargest (2730m), Prashara has a Ban- and

HIMACHAL PRADESH

299 8am-5pm) h 265076; www.airdeccan.net; 265076; www.airdeccan.net; % – a sprawl of wood and stone houses – a sprawl of ( (marijuana), with all the risks that this 01902 Malana Destination Fare (Rs) Destination Fare Jari 400 Kasol 550 Kullu 200 Manali 900 Mandi Manikaran 750 600 About halfway along the Parvati Valley, Jari Jari halfway along the Parvati Valley, About in the hangouts the traveller of is the quietest some friendly guesthouses are valley. There is the starting point for treks and the village to and parlia- system with its own unique caste must wait on the outskirts of ment. Visitors % towards Running northeast from Bhuntar is a well- Parvati Valley Lahaul and Spiti, the hangout. Severalestablished traveller small been transformed towns along the valley have accommo- cheap offering into hippie resorts, a nonstop reg- food and dation, international and dreadlocked gae soundtrack to crowds of the The attractions of taffeta-skirted travellers. the hot springs peaceful scenery, valley are wild and a plentiful supply of at Manikaran charas some excellent are . There p1140 entails – see is not rec- but solo trekking in the area, treks . p303 text, ommended – see the boxed Jari TAXI The taxi the airport; fares stand is in front of include the following: PARVATI VALLEY and flights to Shimla (US$122) on Monday, on Monday, (US$122) and flights to Shimla However, and Friday. Wednesday it imposes limit. Baseda 10kg baggage Amit, at Hotel Air Deccan has a daily flight without to Delhi (Rs 4000) this restriction. BUS services regular very (Rs are to Manali There (Rs 9, 30 minutes) Kullu hours), 40, three Buses (Rs 50, two hours). to other and Mandi after hours destinations pass through three there For the Parvati Valley, Manali. leaving servicesregular (Rs 25, three to Manikaran and Jari (Rs 23, 2½ hours) via Kasol hours) (Rs 15, one hour). Jagson Malabar A de- Next door 01902-265320; % ( . at the bus stand, or provides a home provides , opposite the airport. , opposite dhabas Jalori Pass 265790; s/d from Rs 200/350) national park national park 265500; d Rs 400-1900) has flights to Delhi (US$198, Himalayan PRADESH •• Great Park National HIMACHAL CENTRAL % (

% (

265222; www.jagsonairlines.com; Bhuntar bus (dishes Rs 35-80)

8am-5pm) % (

h 01902 Hotel Amit To get here, catch any bus on the Mandi– catch here, To get Wildlife is best spotted on a five- to eight- on a five- is best spotted Wildlife

There are several are There utes) on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, and Saturday, on Tuesday, Thursday utes) stand; and Dharamsala (US$122, 30 min- 1¼ hours) AIR AIR The airport is next to the bus stand. Airlines Getting There & Away Getting There & Away more substantial meals are available at available substantial meals are more Restaurant

cent budget choice about 500m north of the about 500m north of choice cent budget Rooms are bazaar. airport in the main village what you would expect for the price. Sleeping & Eating Hotel SunBeam for buses to the popular Parvati Valley, but for buses Parvati to the popular Valley, to stay in Kullu. most people prefer line passengers. This is also the junction town line passengers. % Bhuntar has the main airport for the Kullu to air- catering hotels and a handful of Valley BHUNTAR BHUNTAR insurance that covers emergency helicopter helicopter emergency insurance that covers evacuations. a taxi to Aut, then take to the route Manali park entrance. tre, 5km before Gushaini, or with private with private Gushaini, or 5km before tre, ). You need travel p310 ( companies in Manali the park rangers at the Sai Ropa Tourist Cen-the park rangers day organised trek, accompanied by a park accompanied trek, day organised can be made through Arrangements ranger. ever-elusive snow leopard. As well as conserv-snow leopard. As ever-elusive runs programmes that the park ing wildlife, a sustainable living for people living provide the conservationon the periphery of area. to 180 species of birds and rare mammals, such mammals, such birds and rare to 180 species of musk deer the and brown bears, as black bears, This 750-sq-km www.greathimalayannationalpark.com; per day Indian/for- camera Rs 50/150) eigner Rs 10/200, GREAT HIMALAYAN NATIONAL PARK PARK NATIONAL GREAT HIMALAYAN seven storeys. A popular longer walk is the walk is the longer A popular seven storeys. to the 3223m trek tallest temple towers in Himachal – damaged damaged – in Himachal tallest towers temple at impressive but still 1905 earthquake by the lonelyplanet.com to the SunBeam, Amit offers smarter rooms to the SunBeam, smarter Amit offers with welcome mod-cons – TV, phones, car- pets and a spic-and-span restaurant. ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ

HIMACHAL PRADESH 300 Kandapattan To (11km) Lake (16km) To Rewalsar (42km) To Bharmour (100km) To Dharamsala KULLU &PARVATIVALLEYS ETA IAHLPAEH • ul abt aly CENTRAL HIMACHAL PRADESH••Kullu&Parbati Valleys ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ

Mandi

To Shimla Uhl (133km) River Tentu Pass Kataula (4640m) Pandoh Manali Pass

(4880m) Drop-off Point Sarvari ὄ Kandi Hanuman (5930m) Tibba

K u l l u River Rafting Bhekhli Temple Beas Kund Vaishno Devi Kullu/Manali Kullu

Bhuttico Manalsu Airport Dhundi Colony Temple Pirdi Raison Beas Katrain V a l l e y Patlikuhl 21 Bhuntar 21 To Tattapani(150km) Temple Prashara Prashar Lake River Old Manali Tapu Bajaura Solang Nullah Take-out Basheshar Mahadev (2730m) Rafting

Bijleshwar Nala Mahadev

Beas Lama Dugh Point River Kalath Chansari Manali Jagatsukh

To Keylong

Naggar 21 Jhiri Rahala River Beas (50km) Chandrakani Pass Naggar Castle Nehru Kund Aut Rumsu (3650m) Mahri Palchan Spring Vashisht Bashona Kothi Hot Prini P Khanol a Bhanara

Temple r Hindu Hongi Thela v Chikha a Rahala Falls t Malana

i Brighu Lake

Jari M a l a n a Pandu Ropa Sethan/ Larji La (3978m) Chikha Rohtang ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ V a l l e y V Rashol Gramphu

a

Tirthan l B a n j a r a j n a B

l Rashol Pass Malana

e (3620m)

Hot Springs y Chandra

River V a l l e y e l l a V River Juara Sainj 6miles 10km 0 0 Chandratal Kasol Sainj Shiagouru

Serai

River River Parvati (4720m) Hampta Pass Manikaran Indrasan (6221m) Pulga ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ Chatru (6001m) Deo Tibba Great Himalayan lonelyplanet.com To Banjar(30km); Gushaini (37km); Jalori La(58km); Shimla (189km)

National Park River Pass; Spiti(45km) Springs Khir Ganga To Pin-Parvati Hot (100km) To Kaza

Tosh Nullah HIMACHAL PRADESH 301 prasad prasad Sri Guru The best of The best of 273095; r from Rs Rs 273095; r from % ( Pizzas here are bet- are Pizzas here 273710; r with geyser Rs Rs r with geyser 273710;

% (

273794; r Rs 60-80) , lurking behind a veil of of a veil , lurking behind % (

(mains from Rs 60)

Probably the best choice in town, set in town, best choice the Probably Situated back from the road, this mod- back Situated 01902 / elev 1737m The town is centred on the huge huge on the The town is centred Old and New Kasol have loads of travel- loads of have Old and New Kasol There are several more guesthouses several in the more are There White House Little Italy Alpine Guest House Alpine Holiday Home Panchali (food offering used in religious ceremonies) ceremonies) used in religious (food offering and Guru Nanak souvenirs. Nanak Ji Gurdwara The shrine the river. on the far side of steam by both Hindus and Sikhs, inside is revered is chock-a- and the road through the village sellingblock with pilgrims and shops the taxi stand near the bridge in Kasol include the taxi in Kasol stand near the bridge Bhuntar (Rs 550), Kullu (Rs 700) and Manali (Rs 1500). Manikaran % from the Ear’, and means ‘Jewel Manikaran stole a giant snake according to local legend, was bath- earrings from Parvati while she them out into the ground ing, then snorted hot springs bubbling beneath. the releasing from the ground is hot emerging The water enoughand it has to be cooled to boil rice for bathing. Locals claim water with river everything from rheumatism to it can cure bronchitis. friendly farmer. The cheerful wood-floored wood-floored The cheerful friendly farmer. and there’s bathrooms shared rooms have a tiny café. servingler restaurants and identical cakes Café, – Moon Dance fare traveller menus of Restau- Sasi Place Restaurant and Evergreen good choices. rant are and you can play pool while than average ter you wait for dinner. GETTING THERE & AWAY pass Buses from Bhuntar to Manikaran at Fares (Rs 23, 2½ hours). through Kasol 300-350) 300-350) trav- space for swapping provide and terraces natural and the rooms bask in the eller stories forest. and river sounds of 300) has presentable rooms with TVs,ern hotel nice Front rooms have phones and geysers. balconies. by the track reached Kasol, maize fields above Holiday Home. beside Panchali amongst pine trees next to the river. Lawns river. next to the trees amongst pine several guesthouses, similar village run by a A in Jari in Jari Rooftop •• Parvati PRADESH Valley HIMACHAL CENTRAL and 276119) Chandra Place Chandra Place % 276202; r Rs 100) (

offering a pleasant, offering A large, hotel-style hotel-style A large, % 276070; r with shared bath- 276070; r with shared ) ( 273763; r with shared/private

% i % (

( The largest place in the vil- place in the The largest ) 276049; dm/r Rs 50/80) 275434; r Rs 100) i % ( %

(

01902 Village Guest House Negi’sHimalayan Adventure

Yerpa’s Guest House ’s Just uphill from the Village Gust HouseJust uphill from the Village Om Shiva Guest House bathroom from Rs 100/350; Most guesthouses close from for winter down mid-October to mid-April. SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING & EATING bridge; most of the amenities are in New Kasol in New Kasol the amenities are most of bridge; side. on the Manikaran Valley. It’s like Vashisht or Old Manali but or Old Manali Vashisht It’s like Valley. travel- bars, reggae so, with dozens of more cafés, body-piercing internet ler restaurants, guesthouses. either You’ll studios and cheap stay it or loathe it. The nicest places to love the on the Bhuntar side of in Old Kasol are % the Parvati HQ in is the main traveller Kasol Kasol Kasol Buses from Bhuntar to Manikaran stop in Jari Jari stop in Buses from Bhuntar to Manikaran (Rs 15, one hour). A one-way taxi between is around Rs 400. Bhuntar and Jari GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE Guesthouse vibe. villagey are the smaller and simpler the smaller and simpler are Guesthouse through Jari, with simple rooms, hot water simple rooms, hot water with through Jari, bathroom and a sunny rooftop in the shared terrace. several old village houses. There’s internet internet several houses. old village There’s can and the owners access (per hour Rs 70) book bus tickets. (follow the guesthousesigns). Most guesthouses are a steep 1km walk above a steep1km walk above Most guesthouses are Jari Mateura in the peaceful hamlet of Jari SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING & EATING can organise local treks, including the trip including local treks, can organise to Malana. tion and the village has a few basic guest- basic has a few village tion and the stays. houses for overnight the village to be invited in and it is forbidden is forbidden in and it to be invited the village their belong- or villagers the any of to touch this Rs 1000 fine if you break a ings (there’s direc- 17km in each is about rule). The walk Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book decent modern place on the main road on the main road decent modern place lage, with a big walled garden and rooms in lage, room Rs 50-100; place on the main road, with neat rooms and mood. sophisticated a slightly more HIMACHAL PRADESH surroundings, popsoundtrack,and abroad lers andpilgrimsare lured here bythecosy naturally hotwater intheshowers. House Bhuntar (Rs 25,2½hours), continuingnorth run regularly ManikaranBuses between and THERE&AWAYGETTING food. menu of andcontinental Indian,Chinese snacksatdouble-quick speed. and Chinese upIndian place onthemainbazaar,serving of theriver. but alcohol isbannedonthegurdwaraside There are restaurants several inthebazaar, EATING House cally hangoutover theriver. have polish andtheupstairs balconiespracti- cinating river views’fromitsrooms.Rooms ‘fas- CountryCharmpromises the busstand, shui. Thebestroomsfacetheriver. ing poolandcarpeted roomswithgoodfeng the road,Moonoffers invitingbath- abright, nice owners andanicevibe. village, hasnicerooms, thisbiggreen house Signposted downanalleyintheoldpartof the full of springwater atgroundlevel. a goodrestaurant andasquare plunge pool ommended placehasarange of simple rooms, bathroomRs75/150) shared/private private bathroom. mentioned,allroomshaveUnless otherwise by asuspensionbridge fromthebusstand. Most hotels are inthemainvillage, reached SLEEPING can change major currencies. village. ing inthevents andfumarolesaroundthe Mandir ples, includingthestonehut–style temperature. tem- Thevillage alsohasseveral the village, withwater diluted toabearable for menandwomeninthegurdwara 302 Shiva FoodCorner tothegurdwaraareClose Country Charm Fateh Paying Guesthouse Padha Family GuestHouse Amar MoneyChanger There are baths facilities withseparate Holy Palace Restaurant Moon Guesthouse ETA IAHLPAEH • avt aly CENTRAL HIMACHAL Valley PRADESH••Parvati

( ( . Keep aneyeoutfor bagsof rice,boil- % % 273742; rRs50-100) 273717; rRs50-100)

( %

(

% (dishes fromRs40) 273703; rfromRs450) ( h 273002; rRs100-150)

(dishes Rs30-130) 8am-8pm) , simpleplaceswith ( Nearby,thisrec- and %

( % 273767; rRs100) inthebazaar Sharma Guest Kailash Guest Kailash 273728; rwith Asimple Raghunath Raghunath Travel- Below Below Over

which has a dailybusconnectiontoKaza. Valley NationalPark tothevillage of Mud, follows theriver thePin fortwodaysthrough take youintothePinValley. Thefinalstage challenging trampover snowandscree will overnight stopbefore attempting thepass.A foran countrytakes Camp, tain youtoHigh TwomoreKhan. aridmoun- daysthrough forestdays through andpasture toThakur from Manikaran. head atPulgaiseasilyaccessiblebybusortaxi agency inKasol orManali ( p310 ). Thetrail- to make arrangements atrekking through no accommodationenroute soyou’llhave Pass (5319m)tothePinValley inSpiti.There’s day trek thesnow-bound crosses Pin-Parvati October, thisstrenuous butrewarding nine- attempted tomid- frommid-September Best Pin-Parvati ValleyTrek Rs 1300toManali. Kasol, Rs600toBhuntar,800Kulluand Bhuntar. canbearrangedtaxi inManali, Kulluor change inKulluorBhuntar. Daytripsby to Kullu(Rs38,three hours). ForManali, From Pulga,theroute ascendsfortwo From Manikaran, charge taxis Rs100to VALLEY TREK STAGES OFTHEPIN-PARVATI PnVle o 67 14 12 6-7 12 to Pin Valley to 9 Chinpatta 5-6 Chinpatta Pin Valley via Mud 8 15 7-8 Camp to High Maidan Pin-Parvati Maidan 12 to Mantalai 7 6-7 Pass High 15 Pandu to Bridge 6 6-7 6-7 18 10 Mantalai to Khan Thakur Camp 5 Pandu 7-8 4 4-5 Thakur to Ganga Khir Bridge 3 Bhojtunda Bhojtunda Pulga to Khan 2 to Khir (hr) (km) 1 16 Duration 5-6 Ganga Stage Route Distance Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com HIMACHAL PRADESH

, the 303 of- trips are trips are Down Down Bijleshwar 222332) Raja Rupi % ( rafting

(marijuana) has 224263; d Rs 385-770) % ( charas charas

222756; r Rs 275-450) % ( (Jagannathi Devi Temple) offers offers Devi Temple) (Jagannathi

(Bijli Mahadev) is surmounted by a is surmounted (Bijli Mahadev) Kullu Taxi Operators’ Union Kullu Taxi There are several in the important are temples There From April to June or July, Aaditya Guest House Reached via a 3km trek from Chansari, Chansari, from via a 3km trek Reached Sultanpur. There are severalshrines devoted are There Sultanpur. to Raghunath is idol (Rama) and the revered paraded through town during Dussehra. To leading the two tracks either of take here, get the bus stationuphill opposite look for and the imposing near the gateway Kullu. of rajas the of former palace by taxisurrounding hills, accessible or local possible on the Beas River – see p310 . p310 possible on the Beas – see River Sleeping Sleeping Hotel Vikrant the taxi stand, this place is cracking value. TVs,Rooms have and cosy warm hot showers blankets. from the bus sta- Just across the footbridge the bazaar, this smart, tion, to the right of 11km southeast of Kullu on the east bank east bank Kullu on the 11km southeast of the Beas, of of the hilltop temple Mahadev attracts divine bless- 20m wooden pole that of lightning.The surge ings in the form of lingam inside the stone Shiva power shatters back together is then glued which the temple, with butter. Tours The sightseeing from the taxifers stand, tours in- (Rs 300) and Temple cluding trips to Bhekhli (Rs 750), the ParvatiBijleshwar Mahadev Val- ley (Rs 900) and Prashar Lake (Rs 1800). bus (ask for times at the bus stand). About bus stand).bus (ask for times at the About the Bhekhli, of village 3km from Kullu, in the Bhekhli Temple valley. Kullu and the vista over an impressive a small alley behind the cricket ground at ground at the cricket a small alley behind

accepts •• Parvati PRADESH Valley HIMACHAL CENTRAL 224605/222349; 224605/222349; % (

(chariot) holding the(chariot)

11am-2pm Mon-Fri) h is behind the taxi stand (

just north of the centre in the centre just north of festivals in India ( p283 ). Over 200 idols p283 in India ( festivals HPTDC tourist office If you plan to head into the hills, especially around the Parvati Valley, we recommend joining an we recommend Valley, Parvati If you plan to head into the hills, especially around the

01902 / pop 18,300 / elev 1220m / pop 18,300 01902 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) an international reputation, but dealing is a high-stakes game and there are at least a dozen bodies at least a dozen are but dealing is a high-stakes game and there reputation, an international fallen foul of the criminal underworld. who have to travellers belonging somewhere out there you around dangerous terrain steer in numbers, guides can safety well as providing As trek. organised walking alone and always let your hotel Avoid with locals if you get into trouble. and communicate going and when you plan to be back. cautious about befriending Be extremely you are know where by! than sorry is the motto to live safe Better sadhus and others wandering in the hills. WARNING – FATAL VACATIONS VACATIONS WARNING – FATAL from the Kullu and Parvati ‘disappeared’ tourists have foreign Since the mid-1990s around two-dozen With this in – killed by local drug gangs. in accidents while trekking alone or murdered Valleys Manali the local drug scene. around careful mind, it makes sense to be very Close to the bus station on the main road,

The main post office is uphill from the taxi The The pre-eminent temple in Kullu is the is the in Kullu temple The pre-eminent Rag hunath Temple travellers cheques only in US dollars, British only in US dollars, cheques travellers ATM international an pounds and euros. There’s India on the maidan.at the State Bank of Sights & Activities State Bank of Patiala stand. There are internet cafés on the main internet are stand. There Rs 40 per hour. road in Dhalpur charging HPTDC buses, which leave from outside. from outside. HPTDC buses, leave which h It’s useful for booking deluxe at Dhalpur. bazaar below the Hotel Shobla International. Shobla bazaar below the Hotel office and most restaurants and hotels. The bus and hotels. office and most restaurants the north of are station and Raghunath Temple the short cut down through – take theriver Kullu is divided in two by the Sarvari River. The divided in two by the SarvariKullu is River. town has the taxi stand,southern part of tourist Orientation & Information Orientation & Information long carnival and market is held on the maidan is held on the long carnival and market as(parade ground), with entertainment such a motorcycle Wall ofacrobats, musicians and is scarce. accommodation Death. Predictably, statue of Lord Raghunathstatue of from the Raghunath Simultaneously, a week- in Sultanpur. Temple are paraded into town from surrounding tem- paraded into town from are rath ples, led by a huge but every October some 30,000 devotees some but every October de- loudest and the largest for one of scend on it Dussehra

Kullu is the local administrative centre and centre administrative Kullu is the local holi- from the hippie a pleasant change makes the of in the valley. Most elsewhere day resorts goesyear the town its business, quietly about KULLU KULLU % Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book HIMACHAL PRADESH .co.in; rRs500-800) a restaurant andnetcafé. and geyser, andthere’s musty rooms withTV hasroomy, cricket ground,theRamneek river. andbalconies,somefacing the with tinyTVs ofsmall hotel hasagoodselection rooms 304 Ground Cricket 12 4 1 3 2 5 KULLU 3 Hotel Ramneek Hotel 10 ETA IAHLPAEH • avt aly CENTRAL HIMACHAL Valley PRADESH••Parvati Footbridge 13 14

1

Taxi Stand...... Main BusStation...... Planet Food...... Hotstuff...... (see 14) Dhabas...... Hotel ShoblaInternational...... Hotel Ramneek...... Aaditya GuestHouse...... Raghunath Temple...... Bhuttico...... State BankofPatiala...... State BankofIndiaATM...... Police...... Main PostOffice...... Internet Cafés...... HPTDC TouristOffice...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION oe irn...... A4 Hotel Vikrant......

Ὀ Ὀ Bazaar To Bhekhli

5 9 16 2 National Hwy 21 Hwy National A (3km) 11 6 Alarge place overlooking the Maidan Manikaran (45km);Kasol(50km) Valley (11km);Bajaura(15km);

To BhutticoColony(8km); Sultanpur ( Raja Rupi

% Bhuntar (10km);Parvati 4

15 Sarvari River Sarvari Temple (14km);Naggar(21km); Dhalpur 222558; hotel_ramneek@yahoo 0.2miles 300m 0 0 To BijleshwarMahadev Bazaar Akhara Manali (40km) Sarvari 8 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B A4 A4 A4 A4 A4 A4 A4 B4 B3 A3 A5 A4 A4 A4 A4 National Beas River Hwy 21 7 – see – see p299 . The airportforKulluis10kmsouthatBhuntar AIR Getting There&Away theboxedof Kullu–see text, opposite . the huge Bhuttico handloomcentre justsouth famous shawls,oryoucanbuyatthesource thevalley’s outletsselling Kullu hasseveral Shopping floor. nonveg) baronthetop andaratherstark Indianfood (vegthis placehastasty and A curiouschalet-style buildingnextdoor, andinternational favourites.Chinese office, withagoodcheap menuof Indian, litfast-foodbrightly placenearthetourist proper restaurants behindthemaidan. plusafew andbusstation, stand the taxi There are numerous Eating safaris. traders andIndianholidaymakers onjeep class hotel, catering mainlytoroaming international.com; rRs1320-2750; the valley. details. hours after departure –see p314 formore side theKulluValley arrive inKulluabout1½ fromManalivalley. Buses todestinationsout- aroundthe hasfrequentbus station services River, the On thenorthsideof theSarvari BUS Planet Food Hotstuff See the table, the table, See below around buses , foruseful BUSES FROMKULLU Mandi 55 2½hr every 15min every 15min every 2½hr 1½hr 55 hourly 30 3hr 15min every 38 Manikaran 30min Mandi Manali 9 31 Kandi Airport 1½hr 3 Bhuntar Banjar 40 2hr 5 Aut 24 daily 1½hr (Rs) daily Destination Fare Duration Departures every 15min Hotel ShoblaInternational Hotel

Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com (dishes Rs30-200;

(dishes fromRs75; dhabas a ( %

Aglitzybusiness- ) clustered around h 222800; www.shobla h 8am-10pm) 8am-10pm) A

HIMACHAL PRADESH

305

10am- Vishnu (admis- h 248290; www , the former Gauri Shankar % (

Jagtipath Temple , which houses , which the painter’s Roerich Gallery downstairs and the downstairs , dedicated to Shiva and surrounded by to Shiva , dedicated , covered in ornate carvings. in ornate Downhill , covered Urusvati Himalayan Folk & Art Museum A five-minute walk uphill from the gallery A five-minute style of Himachali architecture. It was con- architecture. Himachali style of the last raja in 1978 when into a hotel verted a tiny one-room on hard times. There’s fell TEMPLES TEMPLES down the track beside the castle, Heading you’ll pass the handsome 11th-century Mandir past the tiny post office is the Temple Narayan. devoted to Vishnu smaller temples Roerich, who died in Naggar in 1947. The Roerich’s sur- display some of lower floors Spiti and Kullu, of colourful paintings really Lahaul, preserve while the upper floors the rooms. Roerich was also the artist’s private signed a treaty the Roerich Pact, brains behind than 60 countries guaranteeing the by more preservation cultural monuments around of the world. is the sion with the same ticket) ethnological artefacts collection of personal a the Roerich family. There’s and photos of and regularly for children here painting school modern art. of exhibitions changing museum stone said in the courtyard houses of a slab wild bees. by been The carried here to have the castle is to staybest way to experience . p306 – seehere ROERICH GALLERY continues The main road through the village for 2km to the Nikolai painter the eccentric Russian home of 1pm & 1.30-6pm Tue-Sun, till 5pm Nov-Mar)1pm & 1.30-6pm Tue-Sun, .roerichtrust.org; admission Rs 30, camera Rs 25; , the Bhutti Weavers’ Cooperative. Established in Established in Cooperative. , the Bhutti Weavers’ is a fine 7am-10pm) h (www.bhutticoshawls.com) Bhuttico PRADESH •• Naggar CENTRAL HIMACHAL (foreigner Rs 15; (foreigner fort

With so much competition, the sales pressure in touristy places can be fairly overbearing and and overbearing places can be fairly in touristy competition, the sales pressure With so much

01902 / elev 1760m 1944 by a group of village women, Bhuttico charges fixed prices and has outlets in most major and has outlets in most major prices fixed women, Bhuttico charges 1944 by a group of village Expect angora, from Rs 3000 of Rs 300 for lambswool, from Rs 1000 for to pay upwards towns. shawls worn by village women. embroidered for the exquisitely for pashmina and Rs 6500 you’ll have to haggle hard for a bargain. For high quality without the hard sell, head to the near- For high bargain. to haggle hard for a you’ll have est branch of SHOPPING SHOPPING FOR SHAWLS of described as the Valley but it might be better of Apples known as the Valley is Kullu Valley The selling traditional Kullu of shops is lined with scores Bhuntar to Manali the highway From Shawls. angora rabbits. pashmina goats or using wool from sheep, on wooden handlooms shawls, woven of an income for thousands and it provides in the Kullu Valley is one of the main industries This You can cooperatives. into shawl-weaving themselves organised many of whom have local women, the women who make from them. shawls directly around Kullu and buy of these tour several

Bhuntar 200 Jari 550 Kasol 700 Manali Mandi 900 Manikaran 800 Naggar 650 700 (1100 via Naggar) Destination Fare (Rs) Destination Fare example of the alternating stone and timber stone and the alternating example of Built by the Sikh rajas of Kullu in 1460, this of by the SikhBuilt rajas dramatic Sights & Activities Sights & Activities NAGGAR CASTLE can check your email at several small net- can check the of The owners cafés for Rs 60 per hour. treks can arrange Poonam Mountain Lodge into the hills. between Kullu and Manali but everything of but everything of betweenManali Kullu and is around the castle, 2km uphill. You interest 20th century, ensuring a steady stream of Rus- of stream 20th century, ensuring a steady lies on the back road sian tourists. The village Nikolai Roerich set up home here in the early Nikolai Roerich set up home here % Naggar Castle, the Centred on imposing Naggar was the capital of slumbering village painter The Russian Kullu for 1500 years. of NAGGAR NAGGAR Autorickshaws provide services provide Autorickshaws around Kullu; cost around Rs 30. trips in town should Getting Around Getting Around following: The taxi stand on the maidan books tours trips. Destinations include the and charter TAXI lonelyplanet.com HIMACHAL PRADESH castle, thisplacefeels abitlike askichalet. 1000) Rs 600-1000; and roof terrace. garden café serves decent pizzas and pastas. decentpizzas andpastas. garden café serves winter) the best. isprobably atoptheHotel Ragini Restaurant but therestaurant isonlymediocre. colonial finery.Theviewsare breathtaking, dormitories topalatialsuites decked outin onto awidevarietyof rooms,frommodest the castle. Woodandstonecorridors open 1000-2500) bathroomRs d withshared bathroomRs300,withprivate veranda. Cheaperroomsshare facilities. warmth totheroomsandyoucaneaton French-run colours Bright guesthouse. add Gallery you’llfindthischeerfully chilled-out, .com; rRs150-400) 500-600) Purmina Guesthouse&Restaurant great food. listic activities.Therooftop restaurant serves bytourgroupsforyogaandotherho- used parquet floors andbalconiesagarden haslovely roomswith the castle,Ragini bright and fishingtrips. ing stove. Theowners organise treks, tours there’s acommunallounge withawood-burn- Rooms are wood-panelledandwarm, [email protected]; rfromRs250) and agardenfullof oldHindushrines. village withneat,sun-filled guesthouse rooms hill onthepathbelowcastleisthispeaceful vate bathroomRs200/250) the smallhamletof ChanaltiNaggar. there’s downhillin avillage-style guesthouse Hotels are clustered aroundthecastleor Sleeping &Eating Gallery. Roerich ple ridge above the Naggar, uponthe woodenoutbuildings.High carved like Galleryisthepagoda- Just belowtheRoerich 306 All thehotels have restaurants; Kailash Alliance GuestHouse Nearby are thesimilarbutlessexciting Poonam MountainLodge&Restaurant Chanderlok Guesthouse La Purezza NaggarCastle HPTDC Hotel Ragini Hotel isreached byawoodlandpathbeyondthe Tripura Sundari Devi Temple Devi Sundari Tripura , which benefits fromacosyrestaurant ETA IAHLPAEH • aai CENTRAL HIMACHAL PRADESH••Manali On the road to the Roerich Gallery,this Ontheroad totheRoerich andthe Obviously, the best place to stay is Obviously,thebestplacetostay i

(dishes fromRs50; ) Thebestof thehotels around

On the road up to the Roerich OntheroaduptoRoerich ( % Sheetal Hotel Sheetal Hotel 248185; [email protected];r About five minutes’ down- (

% ( % 247763; gilloualliance@yahoo Murlidhar Tem- Krishna Murlidhar 248213; rwithshared/pri-

( h % ( % , surroundedby Justbelowthe 11am-10pm, closed 248316; dmRs75, ( 248250; rRs400- % ( 248219; rRs %

248248; equivalent of alighted hisboathere Noah, to for bribes(see p1140 ). to arrest orstingthem peopleforpossession warned –localpoliceare more thanhappy here bythe famousManali June toOctober. Many touristsare alsolured KeylongLeh, andKaza fromapproximately to with dailybuses SpitiandLahaul, Ladakh, more peacefulmood. in thevillages of Vashisht orOldManali fora ofis insevere need sometownplanning–stay is crammedwithconcrete hotels andthetown andtemples, butmodernManalistone houses the 1960sthere wasnothinghere butafew old hippie villages aroundthemaintown.Until sports or,more commonly,tohangoutinthe views, whileforeigners comeforadventure ists comehere forhoneymoonsandmountain tourists to Manali year-round. Domestictour- sceneryluresThe surroundingmountain % MANALI onthewaytoManalioff forRs1100. 550 andfromKulluRs650,oryoucanstop A return fromManali taxi costsRs toNaggar from6amto6pm(Rs15,onehour). Naggar runregularly ManaliLocal buses between and Getting There&Away Bookworm BOOKSHOPS Information ontheeastbank. and theRohtang La Manali onthewest bankandonetoVashisht River –one to Old from Manali along theBeas alleys branching west.Tworoadsrunnorth and mosthotels andrestaurants are onthe are stands town. Thebusandtaxi ontheMall a continuationof thatrunsinto thehighway Manali aroundonestreet, theMall, isbased Orientation winter fromaroundOctobertoMay. times.OldManalithese andVashisht for close Year. Pricesforroomscanmore thantripleat other surge invisitors forChristmasandNew humanity hasreturned toManali. There’s an- tolate OctoberSeptember itcanfeel asifallof fromApriltoJuneand the world.Indeed, re-create humanlife after floodsdestroyed branch in the NAC Market. branch inthe NACMarket. booksand Nest&Wingsguides. There’snovels, picture a According tolegend, Manu, theHindu pointfor This isalsothemainjumping-off 01902 /pop4400elev2050m (Map (Map p309 ; 252920; Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com h 10am-6pm) For charas butbe HIMACHAL PRADESH 3 11 307 21 D3 B4 D5 D3 D5 A4 A3 31 4 7 24 5 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 35 10 34 2 D 19 18 14 28 13 HPTDC Hot Temple Baths Complex 6 Two-Storey 36 Vashisht Colony Tibetan Leh (485km) See Central Manali Map (p309) Keylong (115km); 00 0.1 miles 200 m Rohtang La (51km); 20 Aleo/Left Bank Solang Nullah (13km); To Whispering Rocks (6km); Toasted & Roasted...... A4 DRINKING TRANSPORT Blue Star Café...... (see 24) Blue Star Café...... (see Moon Dance Garden...... Pizza Olive...... Rainbow Café...... 30) Shiva Garden Café...... (see Tibet Kitchen...... 18) World Peace Café...... (see Anu Auto Works...... Bus & Taxi Stand...... Enfield Club...... Beas River Park D3 A4 B5 B5 D3 D3 B4 D3 A3 B5 D3 B5 A3 Nature Forest

Reserve

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 The Mall The

Rd

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Rd House School Circuit ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ 17 23 20

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Hadimba Rd Hadimba 25 ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ B Blue Heaven Café...... Hotel Dream River...... Hotel Paradise...... Hotel Pinewood...... Hotel Surabhi...... Hotel Valley View...... Jungle Bungalow...... Kalp-Taru Guest House...... Mountain Dew Guesthouse...... Negi's Hotel Mayflower ...... Sonam Guesthouse...... Sunshine Guest House...... Tourist Nest...... Veer Paying Guest House...... A3 14) Baisho Restaurant...... (see EATING 16 32 C4 B5 D3 D3 A3 D3 D3 A5 D3 D3 D3 D3 D4 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Club House 27 12 15 30 26

PRADESH •• Manali CENTRAL HIMACHAL 22 Rd Loghut 33 AC Nala 1 Dhungri SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING Bodh Guest House...... Guest House...... Dragon Guest House...... Hotel Arohi...... Hotel Brighu...... Shri Hari Yoga Ashram...... Apple View Paying Guest House...... Banon Resorts...... Hadimba Temple...... Center...... Himalayan Extreme Public Baths...... Rama Temple...... Reiki Centre...... Vashisht Mandir...... D3 Old Temple (500m);

29 Manalsu Manali To Manu Maharishi Solang Nullah (11km) MANALI 5 2 3 1 6 Dhungri Van Vihar 4 lonelyplanet.com

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ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ὈὈ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ HIMACHAL PRADESH h carried out inMay for thethree-day areadorn the walls.Grislyanimal sacrifices ings of dancers, and hornsof bullsandibex walls of the temple are covered inwoodcarv- wife of Bhima fromtheMahabharata. The from acrossIndiatohonour Hadimba, the was erected in1553.Pilgrimscomehere cient woodandstonemandir(Map p307 ) Also knownastheDhungriTemple, thisan- HADIMBA TEMPLE Sights &Activities the KulluValley. theboxed See text, p303 . andmurdersdisappearances of foreigners in in Manali anddrugsare behind manyof the have arrested been fordrug-related offences thelastdecadeoverOver 160foreigners Dangers &Annoyances office Tourist office HPTDC booking TOURIST INFORMATION sub-postoffice Manali Centre Service BSNL Customer POST &FAX Bank ofPunjabForex change someextramoneyhere. orSpiti, Lahaul heading northtoLadakh, some –butnotall!foreign cards.Ifyouare havejab NationalBank ATMs thataccept change, of buttheStateBank IndiaandPun- inManaliBanks nolonger offer foreign ex- MONEY Email Café Digital Café connections. around Rs90.Thefollowingplaceshave fast Most internet caféswillburnphoto CDsfor ACCESSINTERNET Police assistancebooth CivilHospital Manali EMERGENCY 308 on HPTDCbusesandroomsinhotels. Mall; h Mon-Sat). window( railway booking atthe brochures andlocalinformation.Booktraintickets h Changes cashandcheques. 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)Forposterestante andparcels. 9am-6pm Mon-Sat)Cansendandreceive faxes. 8am-9pm, 10am-5pmMon-Satinwinter)Helpfulfor h ETA IAHLPAEH • aai CENTRAL HIMACHAL PRADESH••Manali 7am-8pm, 9am-5pminwinter)Canbookseats (Map (Map p309 ; perhrRs50; (Map (Map p309 ; perhrRs50; Mp p309; (Map ( (Map p309 ; % Mp p309; (Map % Mp p309; (Map Mp p309; (Map % 253385) Justsouthoftown. 521925; 252175; The Mall; 252175; TheMall; (Map (Map Model Town; Model Town; h %

h h % h p309; 9.30am-7.30pm) 252116; The 10am-8pm) 8am-1.30pm 252326) 8am-10pm) fax 252404; Dhungri Dhungri

h workshop producingTibetan carpets. lamas andBuddhistdeities.There’s alsoasmall of reveredcrammed withstatues , ditional ofstatue Sakyamuni,thehistoricalBuddha. ple Manali, the backfromthemainroadinsouthof Set BUDDHIST MONASTERIES of Himachal temples. andscalemodels architectural woodcarvings objects,instruments,weapons, ics, household % &FolkArt Culture ofHimachal Museum Opposite the Hadimba Temple, theinteresting MANALI MUSEUM can take anautorickshaw(Rs30). animals, peopleandhouses. ings of of knives, goathorns,andtineffigies tree Bhima, isworshipped intheformof a gora rabbit. costume withyourarmaroundayakoran- temple offering souvenir photosintraditional month) .dmas.gov.in; This ALLIED SPORTS DIRECTORATE OFMOUNTAINEERING & thevillage ofthrough Goshal. trail toSolangNullahrunsnorthfrom here after landingtheboatthatsaved humanity.A the site where Manu tohave issaid meditated and stone are andthewood somebeautifuloldhouses the feel of village. anIndianmountain There the Manalsu Nala,OldManali still hassomeof About 2.5kmabove theMall on the farsideof OLD MANALI ant, Himachal’s bird. state Himalayan birds,includingthemonalpheas- (entry Rs5; asideasa set has been of theBeas A large grove of deodars (cedars) onthebanks NATURE PARK Mela 6am-6pm) Further along the same laneisthemoreFurther alongthesame tra- Ghatotkach, thesonof Hadimba and It’s a20-minute walkfromManali oryou

Mp p309; (Map 253846; entryRs10; near thetemple. Villagers make offer- adventure sports centre centre sports adventure has itsheadquarters atAleo,about 3km 23) Poowlas otr rud the around loiter Photo-wallahs ( p283). Gelukpa Cultural SocietyGompa Cultural Gelukpa h h , with an atmospheric prayer room , withanatmosphericprayerroom Manu Maharishi Temple Maharishi Manu h 9am-7pm) Himalayan NyinmapaBuddhistTem-Himalayan 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed2ndSat each 6am-6pm) h , withasmallaviary of 8am-8pm) contains atwo-storey contains ( % hasreligious rel- 250337/253789; www lonelyplanet.com isbuilton nature reserve reserve nature Mp p309; (Map (Map p309 ; ; p309 (Map

sacred sacred HIMACHAL PRADESH 309 200 m C4 C4 C5 C4 C4 C5 C4 C5 C4 C3 C4

(Map p309 ; 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 0.1 miles Colony Tibetan D Kullu (40km) To Vashisht (800m) Bank To Directorate of Aleo/Left

Mountaineering & Allied Hwy

Sports (3km); Naggar (15km); Naggar

22 19 River Beas 20 8 39 9 45 4 10 Manu Market Park Centre 37 Nature Wildlife 6 11 0 0 Information has fixed-price tours, includ- tours, has fixed-price 40 1 31 13 Stand)...... Himalayan Inder Motors...... 8) HPTDC Bus Booking Office...... (see 1) Jagson Airlines...... (see Life Adventure Tours ...... Manali Luxury Coach Operators 45) Association...... (see 9) Railway Booking Office...... (see Taxi Booking Desk...... Mount View...... (see 30) Mount View...... (see Original Sher-e Punjab...... Bhuttico...... Bhuttico...... 37) HimCoop...... (see Magic Shop...... NAC Market...... 39) Tibet Art Collections...... (see 36) Tibet Emporium...... (see Bus Station...... Hadimba Auto Rickshaw Booking Office Him-Anchal Taxi Operators Union (Taxi SHOPPING TRANSPORT 42 36 SDM

Office 29 House Rd 35 Mall Forest 14 Rd

17 41 Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Reserve Circuit 24 School Rd The C3 C4 C3 C4 C4 C3 A3 C4 C5 D4 C4 C5 D3 B5 C3 B4 C4 B5 27 25 32 ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 Him-Anchal Taxi Operators Union Him-Anchal Taxi 34 30 Mission 33 2 Tibetan Underground Market 20 38 Mission Hospital 3 15 7 252120; The Mall) 5 21 The Private travel agencies offer similar bus similar bus offer agencies travel Private tours. % Laing Rohtang (Rs 1200), Solang Nullah (Rs 500) and Naggar (Rs 550). and Manikaran and the Parvati Valley (Rs (Rs and the Parvati Valley and Manikaran enough people. are 250), but only if there 18 44 43 ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ

23 Hadimba Rd Hadimba Model Town Rd ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Area 28 Tibetan 26 Airport (50km)

Gompa Rd Private Bus Stand (150m); B Rangri (6km); Kullu (40km); Café Amigos...... Chopsticks...... 25) Johnson's Café...... (see Khyber...... 35) Kwality Sher-e Punjab...... (see Manali Sweets...... Mayur...... Mom's Kitchen...... Folk Art...... Tours...... North Face Adventure Hotel Aroma...... Hotel Beas...... Hotel Kunzam...... Hotel Snow View...... HPTDC Tourist Lodge...... Jamuna Guesthouse...... Johnson Lodge...... Mount View Hotel...... Pushpak Hotel...... Sunflower Hotel...... Museum of Himachal Culture & Museum of Himachal Johnson's Hotel...... C3 SLEEPING EATING To Manali Civil Hospital (50m); Town Model C3 C5 C4 C3 C4 B5 C4 C3 C5 C3 C4 C4 C4 C4 12 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 PRADESH •• Manali CENTRAL HIMACHAL 16 AC

Antrek Tours & Travels...... C3 Himalayan Nyinmapa Buddhist Himalayan Adventurers...... Himalayan Journeys...... Temple...... Durga Mandir...... Gelukpa Cultural Society Gompa.... 16) Ghatotkach Tree Shrine...... (see HPTDC Tourist Office...... (see 8) HPTDC Tourist Office...... (see Manali Sub-Post Office...... 9) Police Assistance Booth...... (see Punjab National Bank...... State Bank of India...... State Bank of India ATM...... Tourist Office...... Bank of Punjab Forex...... Bookworm...... 39) Bookworm Branch...... (see Centre...... BSNL Customer Service Café Digital ...... 5) Email Café...... (see INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES See Manali Map (p307)

CENTRAL MANALI CENTRAL 5 2 3 1 Dhungri Van 4 Vihar

bus to Naggar La (Rs 170), Rohtang (Rs 220) Tours by day tours In season, the HPTDC offers rafting and treks to skiing and mountaineering rafting and treks – seecourses for details. the website south of Manali on the east bank of the Beas. bank of on the east A Manali south of from activities can be arranged, of range huge

lonelyplanet.com

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ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ὈὈὈ HIMACHAL PRADESH Vashisht) % Himalayan Extreme Center Extreme Himalayan Adventurers Himalayan TheMall) .antrektours.com; 1Rambagh, Tours&Travel Antrek for popularoptions. adventure theboxed activities–see text, above andcanarrangetablished treks, tours and The followingplacesare reliable andwelles- ADVENTURE TOUROPERATORS 310 www.himalayanadventurersindia.com; The Mall) www.himalayanadventurersindia.com; TheMall) from Rs1200for15minutes, butalwayscheckyourgear. start tandemflightsat Solang Nullah industry seemstohave Summertime cleanedupitsact. Paragliding atManaliwassuspendedforseveral yearsfollowingaseriesofaccidents,butthe Paragliding Sports Mountaineering trainingcanbearrangedthroughthe Mountaineering to acclimatise. tothepass,thenyoucanfreewheeland yourbike down.On allhigh-altituderoutes, time take you One audaciousdaytripisthedescentfromRohtangLa–busesandtaxiscantransport hirebike SpitiandLahaul. forRs100/500perhour/day,oryoucanorganise tourstoLadakh, The steep slopesaroundManalioffer someprimecountryformountainbiking. Agencies offer Biking Mountain houses. monasteries, withaccommodationintents mountainpassesandglaciallakes, orvillageguest- andSpitiforaroundRs2000perday,visiting Lahaul Jeep safariscanbearrangedtoLadakh, Safaris Jeep Beas andtheParvati Rivers atKasol. daily fishinglicencesfromHPTDCcostRs100.Topspotsincludetheuppertributariesof March toJuneandJulyNovember androds tacklecanbehired fromagenciesinManali; The rivers oftheKulluandParvati Valleys are richintroutandmahseer. The seasonrunsfrom Fishing sense ofweightlessfreedom. Travel agentsarrangeridesforRs500perperson. Tethered hot-air balloonsoffer impressive viewsofthevalley,butdon’tquite achieve thefull Ballooning be arrangedinManalithroughthetouroperatorslisted on below ; alsosee p92 ofadventureTo getthemostoutofManali,upintomountains. Allsorts can activities . OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES INMANALI Deo Tibba (6001m).See p95 for more onmountaineeringinIndia. series oflocalascents. LocalagenciescanarrangeexpeditionstoHanumanTibba (5930m)and and training(minimumage17years).The coursescover essentialmountaintechniques anda forRs3600/US$365(Indian/foreigner),May toOctober includingfood,accommodation,guides 9816174164; www.himalayan-extreme-center.com; 9816174164; www.himalayan-extreme-center.com; ETA IAHLPAEH • aai CENTRAL HIMACHAL PRADESH••Manali ( % 250337; www.dmas.gov.in) (Map (Map p309 ; Mp p309; (Map (Map (Map p307 ; % % 252292; www 253050; . Basic26-daymountaineeringcoursesrunonfixed dates from double. Atothertimes, askaboutdiscounts. midrange hotels canincrease bymore than times, pricesatbudget and mas. Atallthese toNovember,June, September andChrist- fortourism areThe peakseasons April to Sleeping Face Tours Adventure North Journeys Himalayan www.northfaceindia.com; TheMall) www.northfaceindia.com; Park. OppositeNehru .himalayanjourneysindia.com; TheMall) Directorate ofMountaineering &Allied Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com (Map (Map p309 ; Mp p309; (Map % 252365; www % 254041; HIMACHAL PRADESH 311 252506; r Rs 252465; r from 252465; r from % % (Map p309 ; (Map p309 ;

. Near the Nyinmapa gompa, this neat, A short walk from the Mall on the on the A short walk from the Mall Mount View Hotel Jamuna Guesthouse (www.himachal.com) about, but the riverside location is pleasant about, but the riverside a bargain. enough and the dorms are

price makes up for the eccentric interior up for the eccentric interior price makes design. Model Town, this place has ques- of edge tionable décor but warm carpets underfoot. 150-300) Rs 250) wood-balconied place has a laid-back mood place has a laid-back wood-balconied and garden. The terrace and a peaceful rear PRADESH •• Manali CENTRAL HIMACHAL 253656; dm Rs 75, d % Himachal Helicopter Skiing Himachal Helicopter (Map p309 ; Plenty of shorter walks are possible from Manali, though the usual rules on safe trekking apply – trekking apply – possible from Manali, though the usual rules on safe Plenty of shorter walks are Rooms here are nothing to write home nothing to write are Rooms here Other Activities Other Activities Other include horse riding (Rs 900 per day), canyoning (Rs 800 per activities available in the area (Rs 1500 per person for 10 minutes). flights day) and sightseeing helicopter During summer, the ski slope at Solang Nullah is a popular place for zorbing – basically, rolling p335). You can make text, arrangements inflatable ball (see the boxed downhill inside a giant in Manali or in Solang Nullah – expect to pay Rs 200 for about 20 minutes. Zorbing Zorbing Walking & Trekking Walking & Trekking multiday Most agencies offer Manali is a popular starting mountain treks. point for organised days), Popular options include Beas Kund (three for around US$60 per day, all inclusive. treks (4270m) to Pass days) and the Hamta to Spiti (eight Valley from the Parvati Trek Parvati the Pin . p282 information on trekking, see Lahaul days). For more (five side 12km hike up the western The walk alone. going and never you are someone where ie tell 6km to to the bus, or you can trek to Solang Nullahof the Beas River is a pleasing alternative along the Manalsu Nala stream. Lama Dugh meadow the snowline above From January to March, the village of Solang NullahFrom January to March, the transforms into Himachal’s ski main and skiing expeditions can be arranged on Year-round details. for p317 snowboarding resort – see ) for around opposite ( skiers (experienced powder Himalayan only) through Center Extreme virgin days). Costly heli-skiing to five trips to high-altitude powder can three Rs 2000 per day (trips last be arranged through Skiing & Snowboarding Skiing & Snowboarding Rock Climbing ranging routes and traditional a good range of bolted have at Solang, Aleo and Vashisht cliffs The day offers ) in Vashisht opposite ( 6c (British 5a to 6a). Himalayan 6a to Center Extreme from French bring a selection all equipment. Independent climbers should trips for Rs 800 per day including of slings, nuts and cams (particularly and a 30m or 60m rope. in the smaller sizes) White-water rafting trips on the Beas River can be arranged at the small village of Pirdi, 3km 3km of Pirdi, at the small village can be arranged River rafting trips on the Beas White-water and the take- Pirdi between water 14km of Grade II and III white is There from Kullu. downriver Book number of passengers. Rs 650 depending on the Jhiri; trips costs Rs 450 to out point at at Pirdi. or directly agents through travel Rafting Rafting Manali Manali HPTDC Tourist Lodge villages of Old Manali and Vashisht (see and Vashisht Old Manali of villages p316 ). Central Manali has plenty of budget places; places; budget Central of has plenty Manali in the are spots backpacker laid-back more BUDGET BUDGET Heating is rare in Manali so be prepared to so be prepared in Manali is rare Heating to stay warm. under a blanket dive Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book Rs 300) HIMACHAL PRADESH are quieter andlarger. Roomsattheback opposite the busstation. this reliable cheapie intoanalley issqueezed If youdon’tmindabitof andbustle, noise monasteries, thisisaquaintchoice. Oldbut bushotel.com; dfromRs300) place has the classic Himachal ‘wood ’n’ stone’ place hastheclassicHimachal ‘wood’n’stone’ place has wornbutspacious rooms,some 450) private balconiesandsigns of loving care. look. There’s aneatgarden and roomshave r Rs200-250) Take thepathuphillabove theClubHouse. who take prideintheirneatandtidyrooms. above runbyafriendlyfamily theClub House, village inthepeaceful orchards guesthouse % best views. aroomuptopforthe Get vines androses. nice balconiesandagardenfullof fruittrees, r Rs150) a laundryandtravel agency. the temple. There’s agreat garden,acosycafé, this cheap andfriendlyplacedownhill from from Rs100/200) [email protected]; bathroom rwithshared/private above theClubHouse. and bigcommunalbalconies.It’sonthepath furnishedrooms sive hassparsely guesthouse backpacker market, thisfadedbutinexpen- shared bathroomRs100/150) October. restaurants downforwinter inlate close travellerestablished centre. Mosthotels and Manaslu Nalastream, OldManali isawell- Uphill fromManali onthefarsideof the Old Manali gompa. Roomsare chintzy, butfairlypriced. big lime-green hotel justnorthof theGelukpa arein theevening themainattractionatthis Huge shared balconieswhere youcansitout clean sheets andblankets. geysers, and comfy roomscomewithTVs, able whetherthere view. isamountain Facilities are goodfortheprice,butit’sdebat- 312 Sunflower Tourist Nest Tourist Paying GuestHouse Apple View Mountain DewGuesthouse Veer Paying GuestHouse Jungle Bungalow Aroma Hotel Hotel Dream River Dream Hotel Pushpak Hotel 253899; rwithshared bathroomRs150) Soothed bythesoundof theriver, this ETA IAHLPAEH • aai CENTRAL HIMACHAL PRADESH••Manali A solid-lookingthree-storey with house Near the Dragon Guest House, this this NeartheDragonGuestHouse,

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sophisticated midrange placeinthecentre of 600; book in advance in season. book inadvanceseason. for character. It’spopularwithcoach tours so theywon’twinanyprizes and clean,though below themaintown.Roomsare comfortable A massive HPTDC-runhotel ontheriverbank orchards andmountains. and balconiesoffer splendidviewsof gardens, with fireplaces andoodlesof colonialcharm, propertyhashugerambling Raj-era rooms r Rs350,plus250forfirewood) directions. able andthere are viewsintwo mountain Temple. worn,roomsare Although comfort- quiet locationonthewaytoHadimba reliable travel agency fortreks andtours. There’s arestaurant, aninternet café,anda over orchards andwindowsontwosides. are better thanmostinOldManali withviews place onthewaytoupmarket. Snugrooms ontreks.com; rRs250-600; Dragon GuestHouse MIDRANGE Old Manali. handy forthemaincluster of restaurants in does agreatdoes jobof delivering it,with large and WoodenBeauty’ ‘Exotic flower promises with acascadeof woodenbalconies.TheMay- Rs 1800,ste2000; RdheadinguphilltoOldManali.House The bestoptionsare allfoundalongCircuit TOP END for oneof thequieter roomsattheback. rooms, andaninvitingrestaurant andbar. Ask middle of town,withspaciousandwell-styled a cons youwouldexpectfortheprice. you canreally spread outin,withallthemod Manali, offering carpeted rooms comfortable, .snowviewhotelmanali.com; rRs1100-1800; colonialmood. and asatisfyingly haslargestone house roomswithfireplaces under thetrees, thishandsomewoodand inimmaculate lawnswithhammocksSet with anextrasinglebed.Thelocationis Hotel Pinewood Hotel o Negi’s Hotel Mayflower Hotel Negi’s SnowView Hotel Hotel Beas Hotel Paradise Hotel Hotel Kunzam Hotel ) a Ahuge, well-runHPTDCpropertyinthe ) An olderplacethatbenefitsfroma Sunshine GuestHouse Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

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A log cabin–style coffeeshop in A log cabin–style coffeeshop (Map p307 ; dishes Rs 100-300; The restaurant at Johnson’s Hotel Hotel Johnson’s at The restaurant A few doors down from its Kwality down from its Kwality doors A few momos On the road to the Club House, this is A bright, fast food–style cafeteria serving A bright, fast food–style cafeteria from 8am) Original Sher-e-Punjab Khyber Several places in town serve half-decent nightlife of Restaurants form the centre Tibet KitchenTibet include restaurants Popular backpacker Johnson’s Café Pizza Olive Kwality Sher-e-Punjab coffee and English-style tea, including Café tea, and English-style coffee Café.Amigos, Chopsticks and Johnson’s and most servein Manali The most alcohol. atmospheric places for an evening beer are Chopsticks and Khyber. pleasingly international restaurant serves restaurant pleasingly international con- vincingly done pizzas and pastas and you can or out in the garden. eat indoors 10pm) ) and Moon p307 Garden CaféShiva (Map ), both serving de- p307 Dance Garden (Map for Rs 30 to Rs 100. fare cent traveller Drinking Toasted & Roasted h servingOld Manali, in town. the best coffee times a day. three shown are DVD movies mains and the drinks menu runs to cold beers, runs to cold beers, mains and the drinks menu wines. fruit local cider and Himachal Rs 140-300) serves modern European excellent Indian and lamb with mint saucecuisine, including roast an There’s trout with almonds. and Himachal evenings. for warm summer outdoor terrace OLD MANALI ser- numerous garden restaurants are There ving all the usual suspects – pizzas, pitta-bread wraps, evening. All thesefrom early morning to late places close November. by the start of this prisingly modern place for Old Manali, wholesome Indian and continental Indian wholesome with food home. of the taste 20-70) Indian food. and South Punjabi pure-veg with meaty this place fills the gap relative, fast foody the Punjab. It’s a bit less dishes from made. and everything is freshly by the main junction, this upmarket Upstairs an Indian a bit like feels bar and restaurant TGI Friday. It serves of version good meaty a decent Tibetan and Chinese place with the a decent Tibetan restaurant. a real of feel from Rs 30)

) A a from from h PRADESH •• Manali CENTRAL HIMACHAL serving Indian 251523; www.john 253026; www.banonre 253764; johnsonshotel@ % Built in wood and ) % % One of several places One of ) dhaba, a (Map p309 ; The Mall; dishes Rs 20- p309 (Map

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The name says – this place serves it all

Manali’s favourite favourite Manali’s Facing the bus station, this is the most Facing An old-fashioned traveller café with cakes, café with cakes, traveller An old-fashioned Mom’s Kitchen Café Amigos

Mayur Mount View o Johnson Lodge Johnson’s Hotel Banon Resorts popular Indian restaurant catering to a mix- catering popular Indian restaurant – always a locals and holidaymakers of ture curries good sign. The menu runs from veg to continental sizzlers. is very similar. similar. is very Next door to Chopsticks, the Mount View fruit wines and tea in metalfruit wines and tea Come teapots. early to nab a table in the evening. Buddhist chanting on the stereo and good and good on the stereo Buddhist chanting and Chinese and food, cold beers, Tibetan 120) town, with in Manali choice popular traveller apple crumble, plus decent coffee. apple crumble, plus decent coffee. from early each morning to late at night. morning to late from early each 120) Chinese and hot Tibetan, pizzas, Tex-Mex, sweets, hot chai Manali Sweets 7am) MANALI MANALI

offering the usual range of domestic and in- of the usual range offering open are The follow places fare. ternational between 8am and 10pm daily, unless other- wise stated. Eating Eating Manali all over and cafés restaurants are There but the cottages are the last word in peace the are but the cottages and privacy. in Manali and their hotel is huge and luxuri- is huge and their hotel in Manali cosy, to feel large a bit too ous. Rooms are The Banon guesthouse the first family opened sonlodge.com; d Rs 2650; stone place, with large, lovely gardens, cos- lovely with large, stone place, excellent rooms and an seting wood-floored restaurant. named in honour of the Raj-era landowner of named in honour and this is a classy wood Jimmy Johnson, gmail.com; d Rs 1800-4500; gmail.com; d Rs 1800-4500; wood-panelled rooms and lovely lawns and and lovely rooms wood-panelled gardens. Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book sortsmanali.com; r from Rs 3100, cottages from Rs 7900; 40-100) timber in the traditional Himachal style, this Himachal timber in the traditional in its large, chic place has a pop at designer bright rooms. HIMACHAL PRADESH % (AMS; see (AMS; see p1188 ). the symptoms of Sickness Acute Mountain a shawlorwarm clothingandbealertto ver en route at Keylong orSarchu. Bring days,withastopo- hausting butspectacular the bone-shaking intwoex- ascentto Leh make buses From 15JulytoSeptember, Leh ValleyParvati change atBhuntar. (Rs 15,onehour)from6amto6pm. Forthe runtoNaggar hours). Regularlocalservices hours) (Rs40,two viatheairportatBhuntar 1½ hours), continuingtoMandi (Rs87,four 30minutes gotoKulluevery (Rs30, Buses Kullu &Parvati Valleys the travel agents throngingtheMall. Tickets fromtheirofficesor canbebought Owners Association % h hasa The busstation BUS local travel agents or Bhuntar –see p299 at . Youcanbookseats Manali’s airportis50kmsouthat closest AIR Getting There&Away allsortsofsells magictricks. Heart Complex,the ofpickles. Inthebasement theModern City produced organic juices,jams,driedfruitand (Map p309 ; TheMall) dried apples,raisinsandapricots. aswellwinterglasses clothing,nutsand cooperatives have shopsaroundtheMall. theboxedprices –see text, p305 other . Several p309; isthecooperativeplace tostart Tibetan messages. Tibetan knick-knacksandfunkyT-shirts with Tibet Emporium probably hasthebestchoice. Acrosstheroad, Collections Tibet Art –mostare openfrom10amto7pm. Ladakh souvenirsselling fromHimachal, Tibet and Manali iscrammedwithsouvenir shops Shopping 314 252843; www.jagsonairlines.com; TheMall) 252843; www.jagsonairlines.com; Luxury buses areLuxury buses runbythe Shawls are soldallover Manali. Agood Street vendors fake sell brand-namesun- 5am-7pm) 252116; The Mall) 252116; TheMall) % ETA IAHLPAEH • aai CENTRAL HIMACHAL PRADESH••Manali 260079; TheMall) foradvancebookings. Mp p309; (Map sells awiderange sells of locally

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snow conditions). July tomid-October (exactdates dependon toKaza inSpitiisopenfrom the KunzumLa mally openfromJunetolate October and toKeylong isnor- La The Rohtang inLahaul &SpitiLahaul at Keylong orSarchu. October, charging aroundRs1000,stopping Keylong. runtillaroundmid- Private buses but youarrange yourownaccommodationin (Rs525)alsoleaveernment buses at11am, in Keylong) at11am.Ordinarygov- toLeh 1600 withtented accommodation andfood leaves 4amand5am. between daily bustoUdaipur(Rs121,ninehours) continues toTabo (Rs187,15hours). The hours) at5.30amand6am;theservice leaveFor Spiti,buses forKaza (Rs152,10 4amand1pm(Rs87,sixhours).long between In season, HPTDCrunsadailybus(Rs In season, In season, thereIn season, are regular toKey- buses about theroute,For details see p338 . in Manali. timeyoueatoutand orderabottlenext Take abreak fromthefizzychemicallager strong fruitwines,fromappletoplum. perry (pearcider)andawiderangeof locally andmadeintoalcoholiccider ontime.to market The rest isfermented itand apricots,butnotallthefruitmakes huge quantitiesofapples,pears,plums bounteousHimachal’s orchardsproduce FRUITS OFHIMACHAL PUBLIC BUSESFROMMANALI apr 50 0 2.20pm 2.45pm & 4pm 12 20 5 295 6.30pm 10am & 12.40pm (ord/dlx) daily 500 15 10 Shimla 200/300 8am,6pm&7pm 350 Jammu 10 16 Jaipur 205 Haridwar 7pm(change at 345 Dharamsala 16 2pm& 3.30pm Dehra Dun 15 315 295 Chamba Amritsar (Rs) Destination Fare Duration Departures Dalhousie) Banikhet (hr) for lonelyplanet.com HIMACHAL PRADESH 315 9816113973; , by the turn- 253825; % % 9816163378; 251094) % % (Map p309 ; (Map p309 ;

(Map ; p307 (Map p307 ; p307 (Map Enfield Club 01902 From Prini, the route climbs through climbs From Prini, the route pine Lots of places rent out motorbikes, but but motorbikes, out places rent Lots of Stage Route Ropa 1 Distance Duration Juara Pandu 2 Prini to Sethan/ (hr) to (km) 3 Ropa Sethan/Pandu 5-6 4-5 4 Juara to Shiagouru via Hamta Pass 7-8 Shiagouru to Chatru 8 10 3-4 10 8 Vashisht Rd) Vashisht Gompa Rd) Vashisht Vashisht % on the slopes Manali 3km north of About ) is the p307 (Map the Beas,east of Vashisht Diamond Hotel, Model Town Rd) pass the foot of the reaching acclimatise before The climb to the pass is steep and at Juara. views sublime snow-peak are tiring but there from the top. On the descent, you can possibly the journey with push on to Chatru or break From Chatru, camp at Shiagouru. a riverside road transport runs north to Ladakh, east to Spiti and south to Manali. Himalayan Inder Motors Life Adventure Tours AROUND MANALI Hamta Pass Trek or this four- Easily accessible from Manali, Pass crosses the 4270m Hamta trek five-day The trailhead is the village the Pir Panjal. over Prini, accessible by bus on the Manali– of Naggar but it’s camping all the way so road, p310 the way to go – see are treks organised for recommendations. to Sethan, forests then open meadows to time to gives campsite Chikha. waterfall A MOTORCYCLE MOTORCYCLE tackle people mountain the passesMany to Ladakh bikes. or Spiti on bought or rented The and sells doesrepairs Enfield off to Vashisht, second-hand machines. third-party in- the price includes sure make a per day is Rs 450 for rate The going surance. to Rs 350 for a 100cc 500cc Enfield and Rs 300 Reliable Honda or Bajaj. to 150cc Yamaha, places: rental Anu Auto Works (Map p309 ; . 253366; The Mall) Hadimba Auto Rickshaw Book- % has share jeeps to Leh (Rs has share PRADESH •• Around Manali CENTRAL HIMACHAL (Map p309 ;

Him-Anchal Taxi Operators Union Him-Anchal Taxi

252120; The Mall) Other one-way fares include the following: Other one-way fares Private travel agencies run similar deluxe run similar deluxe agencies travel Private

For details of public busesFor details see of the table, Government buses run regularly from from buses run regularly Government Bhuntar airport Dharamsala 3500 Kaza 5500 Keylong 4000 Kullu 900 9000 Leh Manikaran 1300 Naggar Solang Nullah 600 (900 via Naggar) 300 300 Destination Fare (Rs) Destination Fare

around Rs 50. If you can’t find an auto in the head to the street, ing Office Getting Around Getting Around AUTORICKSHAW for and Vashisht Autos run to Old Manali around Rs 1200. cost the same if you disembark at Keylong. cost the same if you disembark at Keylong. Sightseeing trips to the Rohtang La cost to mid-October; book a day in advance. Seats book a day in advance. to mid-October; The % TAXI opposite . opposite In season, companies run HPTDC and private (Rs buses (Rs 350 to Rs 415), Jammu to Shimla 350) and Dharamsala/McLeod Ganj (Rs 400). Other Destinations Other Destinations Chandigarh, the fare is Rs 225/375 (ordi- Chandigarh, the fare nary/deluxe). the bus stand till mid-afternoon; the fare is is the fare the bus stand till mid-afternoon; To Rs 360/625/885 (ordinary/deluxe/AC). services to Paharganj, but we’ve heard reports services heard reports but we’ve to Paharganj, buses and getting people booking deluxe of ordinary buses end. at the Delhi special AC sleeper service at 5.30pm special AC leaves buses(Rs 1100). All (Rs run via Chandigarh book- Book at the HPTDC 385, 10 hours). ing office. the AC bus leaves at 4.30pm (Rs 815) and the 815) and the at 4.30pm (Rs leaves bus the AC the daily HPTDC buses to the Himachal busesthe daily HPTDC to the Himachal The de- in Delhi. Tourism office on Janpath (Rs 615, 12 hours), at 5pm bus leaves luxe Delhi & Chandigarh & Chandigarh Delhi comfortableThe most are for Delhi options lonelyplanet.com 1000 to Rs 1500, 14 hours) at 2am from July 1000 to Rs 1500, 14 hours) HIMACHAL PRADESH fers forbeginners dailyyogaclasses at10am main road. Centre Reiki atthe andReikisessions about themassage (Rs 100toRs150).We’ve heardgoodthings at8amand4.30pmand advancedclasses YogaAshram Hari theorange-roofedtrack downtotheBeas, of quackpractitioners. Alongthewalking able inVashisht, butthere are alsoplenty (from Rs2000perday). skiingandsnowboardingtourshigh-altitude day, withallequipment)andthree- tofive-day ing atVashisht, SolangandAleo(Rs800per www.himalayan-extreme-center.com) p310). adventure activitiesaroundthevalley(see two-storey Kinnauristyle. mandir atthebackof thevillage, builtinthe andthere’s Vashisht asecond and Rama, uphill. Nearbyare similartemples toShiva and women,orthere are open-airbaths just free; stone Dedicated tothesage Vashisht, theancient SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES internet accesscostsRs50perhour. netcafésofferseveral international calls,and bakeries andGerman aboundand services lage. Travel agencies, moneychangers, laundry Himachali temples inthemiddleof thevil- the publicbaths, andanumberof typically beyond withornate carving stone houses down forthewinter fromlate October. risks –see p1140 close . Mostguesthouses accommodation and while foreign touristscomehere forthecheap bathe inthehotspringsandtourtemples, the KulluValley. Indiantouristscomehere to ofbest andbrightest thetraveller centres in 316 All sortsof holisticactivitiesare avail- Travel agents canarrange treks andother There are someinteresting oldwoodand You love skiing. Youlove yaks. Whynotcombinethetwo?Accordingto SKIING YAK around locally inManaliand youmaybeableto prove thesceptics wrong. defying speed.There isagrowingbodyof opinionthatyak-skiing doesn’treally exist,butask up thehillsideatdeath- theyak,andgrabs ontotheropetobewhisked ofnuts toattract bucket the atthebottomthenshakes a pulleyattachedto atree, The skier thentiedto ahungryyak. ofnuts. arope,yakandbucket Oneendoftheropeiscarrieduphillandfedskier, through of yak-skiing wasinvented byaTibetan awilling yakherderinManali.Itinvolves apairofskis, h ETA IAHLPAEH • rudMnl CENTRAL HIMACHAL PRADESH••AroundManali Vashisht Mandir 5am-9pm) Himalayan Extreme Center Center Extreme Himalayan

( % with separate areas withseparate formen 250195; www.reiki-world.com) ( % 250493; has charas public baths h offers rockclimb- . Be aware of. Be the closed winter) ( % 9816174164; (admission

onthe of- Shri Shri large old-fashioned attracting village house, that willappealtooldertravellers whovalue deluxe rRs500; hotel. Choose frombasicbackpackerhotel. Choose quarters, panding placeisfastturningintoamidrange above Temple, theRama thishuge andex- but wellkept andthequietlocationisaplus. storey Vashisht Mandir. Roomsare spartan clean andtidythree-storey placenearthetwo- fine views. niture butthey’re goodvalueandsomehave valley views.Roomshave anoddmixof fur- decent cheapie thattakes advantage of the from thesprings. over thevillage andhotwater comesstraight a hippiecrowd.Upstairs roomshave views ies are shown inthelounge. rooms. Every interesting evening, worldmov- should beleftoutsidethesimplebutclean decorated withpaintingsbytheowner. Shoes crooked woodencharm, andthewallsare bathroom Rs70,d200) tober). toOc- (ApriltoJuneandSeptember season prices listed belowcandoubleinthepeak fromOctober toApril.The Most placesclose SLEEPING ing out over the Beas Valley.ing outover the Beas Inside,rooms hotel have thebiggest balconiesintown,look- Rs 300) with uninterrupted valleyviews. and more expensive roomshave balconies creature comforts.Therooftop caféispopular &geyserRs300-500) r withTV pool isonlyfilledintermittently. carpetsandviews.Thetinyswimming TVs, decent hotel roomsanddeluxe rooms,with Bodh GuestHouse Sonam GuestHouse Hotel Brighu Brighu Hotel Surabhi Hotel Dharma GuestHouse Valley View Hotel Kalp-Taru GuestHouse The‘viewside’roomsatthismodern Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com is ( ( % %

( ) 253414; r with TV &geyser from 253414; rwithTV Time %

252796; [email protected]; Up the right-hand path Uptheright-hand This place has a certain Thisplacehasacertain (

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( ( % % magazine, the sport magazine,thesport A big,modernplace 254165; rRs120-150) 252354; basicrRs150-450, 253433; rRs100-150) 251783; swithshared A A A HIMACHAL PRADESH 317 based Further Further 256009; r Rs 300- 98161066045; s/d Rs % (

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256181; r Rs 300) 256010; r with shared/private % % ( ( 256008; [email protected]; r Rs Downhill from the ski slope, %

( 3km above the village is a popular the village 3km above 250337/252342; www.dmas.gov.in) 250337/252342; Directorate of Mountaineering & Allied % Above the village liquor store, this is this is liquor store, the village Above (

A big grey-stone place just downhill from A big grey-stone Down by the village stream, this is another stream, Down by the village Raju Guest House Paying In summer, pony rides cost Rs 100, quad- In summer, pony rides Iceland Hotel Friendship Hotel Snow View Hotel The and courses companies run similar Private POMA/Hotel Regency Patalsu 550) with suitably ‘Alpine’ rooms proper ski lodge, provided are mood. Heaters and a cosy, chalet as standard, and ski and snowboard rental costs just Rs 350 per day for guests. bathroom Rs 200/350) rooms with has carpeted cheapie this cheerful down- lounge and a stove-warmed geysers stairs. downhill, the Snow View is similar to the Friendship Hotel. 600) the slopes (look for the Ropeway Ski Centre snug and warm, the com- sign). Rooms are TV has a giant munal lounge and guests get a 50% discount on the lift pass. ski gear, can be rented at dozens of wooden dozens of at can be rented ski gear, huts on the road between Solang Nullah and can join expedi- skiers Advanced Manali. and tions to high-altitude slopes in Manali Vashisht. Rs 300, zorbing starts rides cost at Rs bike 200 and paragliding flights start at Rs 1200. also good for walking – the The slopes are Shiva temple on all these for more p310 destination. See activities. SLEEPING & EATING or gas heaters in Solang Nullah offer All hotels otherwise Unless stated, stoves. wood-burning with hot showers. bathrooms rooms have is already in operation on the beginners slopes slopes on the beginners in operation is already the village. above and ad- for basic, intermediate day courses on set betweenvanced skiers January dates (In- Rs 3100/US$240 of The fee and March. and includes equipment, food dian/foreigner) the slopes. dorm accommodation at – expect to pay Rs ski and boot rental offer Rs 300 for use350 to Rs 500 per day, plus of and slightly clothing, tired the ski lifts. Winter Sports in southern Manali runs all-inclusive 14- all-inclusive runs Manali in southern a simple, low-key place with pleasant, wood- a simple, low-key panelled rooms. 400/600) Manali •• Around PRADESH HIMACHAL CENTRAL Upstairs at Upstairs A chilled-out A chilled-out Most people Most people (dishes Rs 30-100) (dishes Rs 40-100)

254421; [email protected]; r Rs (dishes Rs 20-80)

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A genuinely midrange hotel at the hotel midrange A genuinely ) a

01902

Other good traveller restaurants include the restaurants Other good traveller Baisho Restaurant World Peace CaféWorld Peace Rainbow Café If these places are full, there are several are full, there If these are places Hotel Arohi resorts at Auli and Gulmarg. A small drag-lift A small drag-lift at Auli and Gulmarg. resorts Solang to the level of the more established ski the more Solang to the level of for paragliding, walking and zorbing. From and snowboarders skiers to March, January alpine-style runs. A new can enjoy 1.5km of ropeway is under construction that will raise a long, green meadow about 13km north 13km north meadow about a long, green In summer the meadow is used Manali. of The best of the modest ski resorts in Himachal in Himachal the modest ski resorts The best of the bottom of Solang Nullah sits at Pradesh, Solang Nullah % turn-off. turn-off. banks of the Beas River. Coming uphill, the Coming uphill, the Beasbanks of River. the Vashisht 200m north of trail begins about near the Himalayan Extreme Center near the Himalayan Extreme past and down to the the ruined HPTDC baths for the journey between Vashisht and Manali; and Manali; for the journey between Vashisht a lift back to to get on being able don’t rely the trail than 7pm. On foot, take later Manali GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE about Rs 40 to Rs 50 Autorickshaws charge from Rs 30. Blue Heaven Café and Blue Star Café, both Blue Heaven with old Indian and continental favourites sit back on in front of nightly DVD movies. nightly DVD movies. sit back on in front of restaurant above the Hotel Brighu, with mood the Hotel above restaurant to menu and comfy cushions lighting, a huge traveller food and rooftop views. The menu views. food and rooftop traveller and Israeli food. runs to Italian, Mexican the Hotel Surabhi, this is a popular choice for Surabhi, this is a popular choice the Hotel end up at this rooftop place at the end of an place at the end of end up at this rooftop fare, traveller for decent evening; come here soundtrack. and a ceaselesscold beers reggae hours are 7.30am to 11pm. There are several are 7.30am to 11pm. There are hours for takeaway snacks. German bakeries EATING EATING Beer and standard opening is widely available Rainbow Café. including the restaurant. restaurant. including the guesthouses the on the track behind more start of the village, offering good rooms with offering the village, start of TVs and views from everywhere, and geysers 500-900; are carpeted and clean, with geysers in the with geysers and clean, carpeted are bathroom. Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book HIMACHAL PRADESH from Rs2000,ste2800) cash andthere’s anATM inthemainbazaar. early bus inthemorning. There are afew goodoptions ifyouhave an Sleeping battles sinceIndependence. in town, commemoratinglocalwar heroes and palanquinsbelongingtolocalrajas. fabricsandembroidery,weapons ple carvings, ings fromtheKangra school, alongwithtem- displayssomefine miniaturebus stand paint- Rs 10/50; The Sights Tibetan carpetsforRs3500upwards. Mon-Sat) The 1pm Sat) people onlycomehere tocatch abus. andabusybazaar,butmost a goodmuseum has town of itself Ganj. Dharamsala McLeod travellers uphillinthebusylittletraveller stay just uphillinGangchen Kyishong,andmost fact, theTibetan government inexileisbased known asthehomeof In theDalai Lama. (pronounced Dharam Dharamsala % DHARAMSALA Kangra districtishttp://hpkangra.nic.in. website Theofficial toDharamsala. for close home of theTibetan government inexile, Western Himachal Pradesh isfamousasthe PRADESH WESTERN HIMACHAL inJanuarythe roadimpassable andFebruary. hour walkfromOldManali. Snowmaymake fromManaliarrival. Ataxi isRs300;it’satwo- Solang Nullah(Rs9,onehour),returning on leaveBuses Manali at8am,2pmand4pmfor THERE&AWAYGETTING cottage inthegardensteal theshow. dies’ playpark.Wood-linedsuites inthestone resort andakid- hasapeacefulvalleysetting from SolangNullah,thiseye-catching wooden 318 The Rocks Whispering There’s alsoa 01892 /pop19,800elev1219m Museum of Kangra Art Art ofKangra Museum Himachal Emporium Emporium Himachal ETR IAHLPAEH • hrmaa WESTERN HIMACHAL PRADESH••Dharamsala acceptstravellers cheques andchanges on the main road sells Kullu shawls and Kullushawls onthemainroadsells and State BankofIndia State h 10am-1.30pm &2-5pmTue-Sun) War Memorial ( % ( 256092; [email protected];r h About 4kmdownhill

( ( % % 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am- 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 224185; 224214; Indian/foreigner , 1kmsouthof h sala nearthe 10am-5pm 10am-5pm ) isbest 80km, orRs1500roamingfurther afield. ranged forRs800perdaycovering lessthan leave whenfullforRs7.Daytours canbear- Sharedthe busstand. Ganj toMcLeod taxis AIR Getting There&Away ontheside. snacks,andabeer continental tre. Comeforkebabs, rich curries,burgers and at thisupmarket Indianrestaurant inthecen- h food. and inexpensive SouthIndianandGujarati dingy buthygienicfast-food withtasty house Monal Restaurant Eating from somerooms. andtherefor thebusstand are goodviews sive forwhatyouget. Nevertheless, itshandy roomshere comfortable, Although are expen- Kyishong. quiet locationbelowtheroadtoGangchen mir. Thehuge roomshave allmodcons,ina belonged tothemaharaja of Jammu andKash- Hotel Dhauladhar,thisrefurbished follyonce classierHPTDCpropertythanthe slightly ers are hot. noisy thanotherplacesintownandtheshow- the roadtoGangchen Kyishong. It’sabitless atthisgenericprice isright hotel, uphillon The TAXI for otherservices. thetable, (Rs 7)tillabout 7pm.See opposite , Ganj toMcLeod busstation Dharamsala from runaregularMinibuses shuttleservice BUS See p328 tothearea. of fordetails airservices cedGn 120-150 Palampur 550 McLeod Ganj 250 900 Masrur 350 Kangra 700 Jawalamukhi airport Gaggal Destination Fare (Rs) One-way fares include the following: Andey’s Midtown Dhauladhar HPTDC Hotel House Kashmir Surbhi Guesthouse

9am-10.30pm) taxi stand Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com The best food in town is served Thebestfoodintownisserved ( %

(dishes Rs20-70; ( 222105) %

Restaurant Restaurant ( % 222977; dRs800-1500) 224677; rRs250-350) (

is upthesteps from % 224926; rRs1200-2000) h (mains Rs40-120; 10am-10pm)

The A A

HIMACHAL PRADESH 319 McLeod was established in the mid-1850s The taxi stand is on Mall Rd and auto- The taxi stand is on Mall Since this time, McLeod has become a major essential for McLeod are Ganj: Waterproofs Tipa Rd runs northeast to the Tibetan Insti- Rd runs northeast to the Tibetan Tipa and Dharamkot Rd Arts Performing of tute runs north to Dharamkot. jeeps stop on the lower rickshaws and share in the St John of northern road to the Church Wilderness and Dal Lake. claimed asylum here following the Chinese claimed asylum here ). p323 text, (see the boxed Tibet invasion of Buddhism and Tibetan for the study of centre holistic activi- all sorts of are There culture. travellers of and lots on offer, ties and courses on community projects to volunteer come here community. that focus on the refugee shops and businesses Many it rains a lot here. closed on Monday. are Orientation the central bus stand,From Jogibara Rd runs Kyishong and Dharamsala,south to Gangchen to the Tsuglagkhang Rd runs south Temple Rd runs east to Bhagsu, Complex, Bhagsu hotels, trekking companies, net cafés, traveller companies, net cafés, traveller trekking hotels, and wall-to- parlours video movie restaurants, souvenirs. wall shops selling Tibetan served garrison and it briefly as a British as for the colonial gov- an administration centre ernment until the devastating of earthquake until 1960, water a back 1905. It remained when the Dalai Lama and his entourage 8am-noon h Rail Reservation Ganj PRADESH •• McLeod WESTERN HIMACHAL 226711; HPTDC Hotel Dhauladhar; . % (

Chamba 140 8 7.40am & 8.15pm 12.30pm 6pm & 6pm & daily 7.40am & Amritsar 125 7 7.40am 140 Chamba 8 & 100 Dalhousie 5pm frequent Dehra Dun 6 12 30min 294-430 Delhi daily 8 Gaggal 9 Haridwar285 13 Jammu daily Jawalamukhi40 3pm 4am frequent Kangra14 1 1½ 9 170 Kullu 4am 290 Manali 205 10 hourly Mandi 102 6 5 20 Palampur 2 68 Pathankot frequent 3½ 190 Shimla 10 115 5 hourly 13 5 1 daily (check time locally) 9pm Destination Fare (Rs) Duration (hr) Departures (hr) Duration (Rs) Fare Destination 01892 / elev 1770m A lumbering narrow-gauge train runs east a scenic, if slow, providing from Pathankot, to Kangraback route (2½ hours), Palam- pur (four hours), Baijnath (6½ hours) and seven are (nine hours). There Jogindernagar trains a day – two as far as Jogindernagar as far as Baijnath. Ordinary trains and five cost Rs 27 or less to any destination on crammed with but carriages are the route, passengers and seats cannot be booked in Board early to grab a window seat advance. and enjoy the views en route. THE KANGRA TOY TRAIN TRAIN TOY KANGRA THE BUSES FROM DHARAMSALA FROM DHARAMSALA BUSES

Lama. It’s also the main traveller hangout hangout Lama. It’s also the main traveller budget Pradesh, with dozens of in Himachal the main road, McLeod Ganj is the headquar- the main road, in exile and government the Tibetan of ters His Holiness the 14th Dalai of the residence % Dharamsala, or 10km via Around 4km above MCLEOD GANJ MCLEOD GANJ Centre Mon-Sat) the slow narrow-gauge line from Pathankot to from Pathankot line the slow narrow-gauge text, and the boxed p331 Jogindernagar – see . Reservations for other services from below at the can be made Pathankot TRAIN TRAIN on Mandir, train station is Kangra The nearest lonelyplanet.com

HIMACHAL PRADESH all-round bookshop. Namgyal Bookshop Bookshop Hills Bookworm BOOKSHOPS Information 320 stocked withnovelsandguidebooks. stocked noon & 1-6pm Tue-Sun) Specialises in . noon &1-6pm Tue-Sun) Specialisesin Buddhisttexts. 4 1 3 2 5 DHARAMSALA &MCLEODGANJ Dal Lake 28 Forsyth To Talnu(2.5km) Ganj ETR IAHLPAEH • cedGn WESTERN HIMACHAL PRADESH••McLeod Ganj

Bus (Hotel BhagsuRd;

Route AC Bus (BhagsuRd;

Route (Tsuglagkhang Complex; (Tsuglagkhang McLeod Ganj

49 Cantt Rd Cantt 19 Memorial (100m); Pathankot (90km) Airport (14km); Kangra (19km); h 1 15 Dalai Lama's h 75 66 Gangchen 57 Kyishong Residence Steps To War Centre (50m);Triund(9km) To HimalayanIyengarYoga 10am-6pm) Well 33 85 84 60 10am-6pm) Thebest 26 Dharamkot See Enlargement Kotwali Bazar 51 Dharamsala 30 B h 17 27 10 Chorten 9.30am- Very steep 14 road Jogibara 36 Sidhibari (5km);Tapovan(7km); To NorbulingkaInstitute(5km); 35 Palampur (29km)viaYol charging Rs30anhour. Ganjhas loads ofMcLeod internet cafés,all ACCESSINTERNET (p328). Centre from theTibetan Handicrafts Cooperative Customs formsmustsometimesbe obtained CUSTOMS 29 0 34 Approximate Scale Temple Rd 54 83

Nowrojee Rd 81 77 44 16

8

86 78 71

56 Rd 2 Temple 76 Bhagsu Rd Bhagsu Chorten 88

82

1km 0.5miles 0 0 23 42 Hotel 6 13 65 70 5 79

74 Mall 48 20 Rd 11 Jogibara Rd 53 61 40 63 Dharamkot 21 80 73 62 58

72 47 68 7 37 Jogibara 87

69

45 12 Rd Rd 59 32 lonelyplanet.com 18

Tipa Rd

38 Bhagsu Rd Bhagsu 22 64 25 31 D 24 3 46 41 4 9 39 To Bhagsu 55 67 100 m (2km) 52 43 50 HIMACHAL PRADESH , C2 B4 D2 D2 D3 C4 D2 D3 C3 B4 C3 C4 C3 C3 D3 C1 C2 C4 B5 B5 C1 D1 C1 B4 D3 D3 D3 D4 321 amchi 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 , under the 10am-2pm & h 9am-9pm) 8am-9pm) Also offers 8am-9pm) Also offers 222053; Gangchen Kyishong; h ( h 9.30am-6.30pm) % (Temple Rd; ( h Pool Halls...... (see 69) Pool Halls...... (see Handicrafts Cooperative Tailoring Tibetan Handicrafts Cooperative Autorickshaw Stand...... Bus Stand & Ticket Office...... Destinations Travels...... Dharamsala Bus Station...... Dharamsala Taxi Stand...... Rail Reservation Centre...... (see 49) Share Jeeps to Dharamsala...... Taxi Stand...... Taxi Stand...... French Café...... (see 69) French Café...... (see 40) Liquor Store...... (see Moonpeak Espresso...... Video Hall...... Video Hall...... 22) Green Shop...... (see Section...... Himachal Emporium...... Norling Designs...... Stitches of Tibet...... TCV Handicraft Centre...... TCV Handicraft Centre 2...... Centre...... Andey's Midtown Restaurant.... Andey's Restaurant...... Ashoka Gakyi Restaurant...... 43) Green Hotel...... (see Kitchen...... Jimmy's Italian Lung Ta...... McLlo Restaurant...... Monal Restaurant...... 34) Namgyal Café...... (see Nick's Italian Kitchen...... 56) Pema Thang Pizzeria...... (see Snow Lion Restaurant...... Taste of India...... Tsongkha...... C3 41) Chocolate Log...... (see EATING DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT SHOPPING TRANSPORT (Bus Stand; D3 C2 D1 C4 B4 D3 D3 D4 D1 D3 D1 D4 C4 D2 C4 D2 D4 D2 C4 A4 D1 B3 D1 B2 A1 C2 B3 D4 D2 B2 C4 B1 B1 Manaav Medical (Temple Rd; 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 outpatient clinic 9am-1pm & 2-5pm) Consultations Rs 10. 3-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Western Union transfers. Western Union transfers. MONEY MONEY LKP Forex MerchantPaul Punjab National Bank MEDICAL SERVICES MEDICAL SERVICES for stomach For minor ailments and treatment bugs, try You might also give Plaza Hotel. Asian – medicine, a chance traditional Tibetan see p324 . Delek Hospital Tibetan h the the Cheryton Cottage Guest Kunga Guesthouse...... (see 67) Regional Mountaineering Regional of Performing Tibetan Institute & Astrological Tibetan Medical SLEEPING Loseling Guest House...... Om Guest House...... Paljor Gakyil Guest House...... Pema Thang Guest House...... Surbhi Guest House...... Takhyil Hotel...... Tibet Museum...... (see 34) Tibetan Ashoka Guest House...... VolunteerTibet...... Yeti Trekking...... Z Meditation...... Asian Plaza Hotel...... House...... Chonor House Hotel...... Green Hotel...... 44) Him Queen Annexe...... (see Hotel Him Queen...... Hotel India House...... Hotel Mount View...... Hotel Tibet...... HPTDC Hotel Bhagsu...... HPTDC Hotel Dhauladhar...... Kalsang Guest House...... Kareri Lodge...... (see 56) Kashmir House...... Loling Guest House...... Gompa...... (see 14) Gompa...... (see Nechung Centre...... 11) Sangye's Kitchen...... (see Taste of India Cooking 69) Courses...... (see Village...... Tibetan Children's Museum...... (see 14) Tibetan Cultural Arts...... Institute...... Tibetan Universal Massage...... Tibetan Welfare Office...... Tsechokling Gompa...... Tsuglagkhang Complex...... Tushita Meditation Centre...... Vipassana Meditation Centre..... 8am-10pm) Lots of B5 D1 D2 C3 D2 D1 B4 C3 B3 D3 A2 C3 C3 D2 B5 D3 D1 C2 B3 B4 C3 D4 D1 C3 C3 D2 8am-10pm Tue-Sun) 8am-10pm Tue-Sun) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 h Tibetan Bulletin, Tibetan h provides coverage of Tib- of coverage provides Ganj PRADESH •• McLeod WESTERN HIMACHAL (Bhagsu Rd; (Jogibara Rd; is an informative, free local maga- free is an informative, Tibetan Review Tibetan SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Environmental Education Church of St John in the Dr Lobsang Khangkar Memorial Secretariat of the Tibetan Government Information Office of Central Tibetan Information Office Museum of Kangra Art...... Namgyal Gompa...... (see 34) Men-Tsee-Khang Clinic...... Men-Tsee-Khang Museum...... (see 30) Lhamo's Kitchen...... Library of Tibetan Works & Archives...... (see 14) Kalachakra Temple...... (see 34) LHA...... Centre...... Gu Chu Sum Movement Gallery...... (see 64) Clinic...... Eagle's Height Trekkers...... Wilderness...... Bhimsen's Cooking Class...... Summit Adventures...... (see 63) Summit Adventures...... (see Tibetan Delek Hospital...... in Exile...... State Bank of India...... State Bank of India & ATM...... Potala Tours & Travels...... Punjab National Bank...... Post Office...... Post Office...... Namgyal Bookshop...... (see 34) Namgyal Bookshop...... (see Nehria Travels & Tours...... 40) Paul Merchant...... (see Adminstration...... LKP Forex...... 40) Manaav Medical...... (see Himachal Travels...... Office...... HPTDC Tourist Dogga Centre...... 43) Green Cyber Café...... (see Hills Bookshop...... Branch Security Office...... (see 32) Branch Security Lab...... (see 71) Dhauladhar Colour ATM...... Bookworm...... official journal of the government in exile. the government official journal of etan issues, as does the The Dogga Centre is run for the benefit of the Dogga is run for the benefit of the Dogga The Dogga Centre refill a water-bottle It offers Adult Education Centre. service. terminals and fast connections. zine that contains some useful listings, as zine that contains useful some listings, as and vol- courses well as details regarding work. unteer MEDIA MEDIA Contact Green Cyber Café Dogga Centre lonelyplanet.com HIMACHAL PRADESH h 10am-1pmSat)AlsohasaninternationalATM.Fri, Himachal. Himachal. forHPTDChotelsandbusesaround bookings also make h vise against joining one-on-one classes with againstjoiningone-on-oneclasses vise women by‘alternative therapists’.Wead- There have reports been of against assaults Dangers &Annoyances Summit Adventures Potala Tours&Travels Travels Himachal treks. Try the following: bus tickets, aswellarrangingtours and Numerous travel agencies canbooktrainand TRAVEL AGENCIES tion Tibetan ofCentral Administra- Information Office office HPTDC tourist TOURIST INFORMATION &Tours Travels Nehria tination. calls foraroundRs6perminute toanydes- (PCO) facilities,somewithinternet phone Most travel agencies have Office PublicCall TELEPHONE &FAX Post office POST Dhauladhar ColourLab tos toCDforaroundRs70. Most internet pho- caféswilldownloaddigital PHOTOGRAPHY BankofIndia State 322 For infoonTibetan issues. and offers processingandprinting. restante andparcels. 9.30am-noon Sat,parcelpostto1pmweekdays)Poste attend you have toregister, atthe withyourpassport, NewYear)(Tibetan inFebruary/March. Detailsofmeetings are posted aroundMcLeod Ganj. To andafterpublic meetingsheld atGangchenKyishongduringthe monsoon (July/August) Losar are automatically guaranteed anaudience,buttravellers dowiththeoccasional mustmake running thegovernment inexiletomeeteveryone whocomestoDharamsala. Tibetan refugees ences are almost never granted. Put simply,theDalai Lamaistoobusywithspiritualdutiesand Meeting facetowiththeDalaiLama isalifelong dream formanytravellers, butprivate audi- THEDALAILAMAMEETING .tibet.com; Bhagsu Rd; 8.30am-11.30pm) Goodforfaxingandinternetcalls. 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Offers mapsandguides,can 10am-5pm Mon-Sat)Offers ( % ETR IAHLPAEH • cedGn WESTERN HIMACHAL PRADESH••McLeod Ganj 221502; JogibaraRd; (Jogibara Rd; (Jogibara ( % ( (Temple Rd; (Temple ( % % 221428; JogibaraRd) ( h h ( (Temple Rd) Sells print film print Rd)Sells (Temple % % 221679; JogibaraRd) 221205; HotelBhagsuRd; 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri & 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri 9am-1pm & 2-5pmMon-Sat,closed 2nd&4thSateachmonth) h 221378; BhagsuRd) 221964; BhagsuRd; h 9am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) 10am-4pm Mon- Tibetan month.Photography isallowedin here annually onthefifthdayof thethird Sandmandalasarethe DalaiLama. created okitesvara, currently represented onearthby Time) mandala,specificallylinked toAval- merising muralsof theKalachakra of (Wheel Temple Revolution. the Temple duringtheCultural relics several rescued contains statue from duced BuddhismtoTibet. TheAvalokitesvara masambhava, theIndianscholar whointro- Buddha, flanked byAvalokitesvara andPad- of gildedstatue theSakyamunia 3m-high the Tibetan deityof compassion,itenshrines Sacred to Avalokitesvara (Chenrezi inTibet), equivalent of Temple theJokhang inLhasa. Tsuglagkhang itself. Namgyal Gompa,Tibet andthe Museum residence) aswellthe of theDalaiLama, nonresidents) the onTempleDownhill fromMcLeod Rd, COMPLEX TSUGLAGKHANG Sights villages. Ganjandthesurrounding McLeod tween strangers. Avoid be- walkingaloneatnight ing forrefugees. 10pm Tue-Sun) food atthe texts, andyoucanenjoycakes andvegetarian ofbookshop hasagoodselection Buddhist theatrical clapof thehands.Themonastery gument withgreat and flourish,afootstamp pointsofdebate most afternoons, ar- sealing Gompa Temple. the Tsuglagkhang, butnotintheKalachakra The revered Tsuglagkhang istheexiles’ The remaining buildingsformthe Next totheTsuglagkhang isthe Tsuglagkhang Tsuglagkhang Branch Security Office , where itis possibletowatch monks , built in 1992, which contains mes- , builtin1992,which contains comprises the comprises , which provides vocationaltrain- Namgyal Café (Central Chapel; .

(snacks Rs30-70; ( photang % lonelyplanet.com h 221560; www 10am-6pm for Kalachakra Kalachakra (official h Namgyal 10am- HIMACHAL PRADESH

323 2-5pm Mon, h (admission Rs 5; (admission Rs 5;

222618; Gangchen % Gu Chu Sum Move- ( has fascinating dis- Men-Tsee KhangMen-Tsee (Jogibara Rd; admission free; has an exhibition of photos telling photos telling has an exhibition of Men-Tsee-Khang Museum is a five-minute walk below the Sec- walk is a five-minute (traditional Tibetan medicine) and as- (traditional Tibetan 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) The OTHER ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS OTHER that works with form- Run by a local charity the er political prisoners, ment Gallery Wed & Fri) Chinese- in political oppression the story of occupied Tibet. you can have a whole life horoscope prepared horoscope prepared a whole life you can have in English for US$45. h medicine, told via plays on traditional Tibetan preserved specimens and illustrative painting on cloth). Tibetan (rectangular TSECHOKLING GOMPA below the bus steps a long flight At the base of of stand, was built in 1987 to this peaceful gompa Chokling Gompa the original Dip Tse replace destroyed in the Cultural Revolution.in Tibet, Gelukpa monks, theHome to a small order of Sakyamuni in a statue prayer hall enshrines of a magnificent jewelled headdress. TIBETAN MEDICAL & ASTROLOGICAL & ASTROLOGICAL MEDICAL TIBETAN INSTITUTE (MEN-TSEE-KHANG) Established to preserve the ancient arts of amchi trology, the a library and training college, There’s retariat. born, and if you know the exact time you were Kyishong)

,

(www (ritual kora 10am-6pm Tue- Nechung Gompa h cultural museum Tibet MuseumTibet with statues, old Tibetan with statues, old Tibetan 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd & 4th 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, closed h Ganj PRADESH •• McLeod WESTERN HIMACHAL Library Of Works & Archives Tibetan h preserves the Tibetan texts saved saved preserves texts the Tibetan Facing unimaginable persecution, more than 250,000 Tibetan refugees have made the deci- made the have refugees 250,000 Tibetan than persecution, more unimaginable Facing protesters. has fallen out of favour with Western refugees Tibetan Sadly, the cause of India’s continue to eke out a living from farming, manufactur- refugees Meanwhile, India’s Tibetan , telling the tragic story of the Chinese oc- the tragic story of , telling sion to flee their homeland, on foot over the Himalayato seek sanctuary in India, led by His over homeland, on foot sion to flee their asylum in Dharamsala in 1959. Gyatso, who was granted Tenzin Holiness the , Ganj is now the headquarters for the official village of Gangchen Kyishong below McLeod The and legal experts of politicians team fighting for in exile, with a dedicated government Tibetan in Tibet. those still oppressed liberation and the rights of about the to protest prepared people who are to find a hundred marches struggle Tibet’ ‘Free powerful With China becoming increasingly world stage, on the death of a million Tibetans. fading fast. are hopes for justice for Tibet charitable schools and other refugee Tibetan other traditional crafts. ing, and selling carpets and p1155 and p325 – see across the region volunteers need of long-term in desperate projects are information. for more EXILES EXILES kingdom, was an autonomous dynasty of the Dalai ruled by the spiritual Tibet Until May 1949, the Chinese deity of compassion. Then the Buddhist incarnation of Avalokitesvara, Lama, the living land and people of their the Tibetan to liberate Army marched into Lhasa Liberation People’s cultural been killed have and 90% of Tibet’s Tibetans Since then, some 1.2 million their culture. been destroyed. heritage has Most Tibetan pilgrims make a pilgrims make Most Tibetan Upstairs is a fascinating Upstairs Also here is the moving is the moving Also here home to the Tibetan state oracle. state oracle. home to the Tibetan three-dimensional mandalas in wood and in wood and mandalas three-dimensional sand. Also worth a visit is the (admission Rs 10; 2nd & 4th Sat each month) and books, and some astonishing artefacts from the Cultural Revolution. Many have since have from the Cultural Revolution. Many other Euro- and into English been translated but you must become a tem- pean languages, porary member (Rs 50 per month; passport needed for ID) to access the collection. (Secretariat Complex; Sat of month) Inside the government compound at Gangchen Inside the government Kyishong, the SECRETARIAT OF THE TIBETAN OF THE TIBETAN SECRETARIAT IN EXILE GOVERNMENT temple and follow the winding path leading and follow the winding temple off to the right. must be carried out in a clockwise direction. must be carried out in a clockwise direction. road to the left at the entrance to the the Take circuit) of the Tsuglagkhang Complex, which Complex, which the Tsuglagkhang circuit) of clips. A visit here is a must for anyone staying clips. A visit here in McLeod Ganj. .thetibetmuseum.org; admission Rs 5; Sun) lonelyplanet.com cupation and the subsequent Tibetan exodus cupation and the subsequent Tibetan interviewsthrough photographs, and video HIMACHAL PRADESH education forrefugee children. Visitors are .in; Tibetan Village Children’s on Mall Rd,peaceful the DhauladharRidge. views southover thevalleyandnorthtowards 3km walknortheastto clude the2kmstrollto Interesting in- short walksaroundMcLeod WALKS the postoffice. Clinic Sat eachmonth) Tipa Rd; including the ments. There are clinicsaroundtown, several ular treatment forminorandpersistent ail- Amchi AMCHI sessions. tation JogibaraRd) www.zmeditation.com; Dharamkot Rd; Iyengar YogaCentre & Annoyances,p322. Dangersmolested byso-called‘therapists’;see warned thatsomewomentravellers have been boards allover Ganjandin McLeod arecourses andsessions posted onnotice- ofthe expense gullibletravellers. Adverts for legitimate and somemakingafastbuckat of holisticandalternative therapies,some GanjhasdozensofMcLeod practitioners ALTERNATIVE THERAPIES & MASSAGE Activities quake. the graves of manyvictimsof the1905earth- Thecemetery contains service. the weekly ish era. It’sopenonSundaymorningsfor stained-glass windowsdatingfromtheBrit- ChurchofStJohnintheWilderness and otherorganic products. Shopping, (see p328 handmadepaper ) sells water bottleandtheadjacentGreen Shop issues.Youcanrefillenvironmental your h the 324 better way to find the good practitioners. Be better waytofindthegoodpractitioners. Be toothertravellersmagazine, buttalking isa About 4kmnorthwestof Ganj McLeod the Just offthemainroadintoMcLeod, by theTibetanEstablished Welfare Office, Readers have recommended the h 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) Environmental EducationalCentre

ETR IAHLPAEH • cedGn WESTERN HIMACHAL PRADESH••McLeod Ganj ( % 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) (traditionalTibetan medicine) isapop- h 220811; 9am-1pm &2-5pmMon-Sat,closed2nd4th h and Apr-Oct) Men-Tsee-Khang Clinic Men-Tsee-Khang h Dr Lobsang Khangkar Memorial Memorial Dr LobsangKhangkar ( % 9am-noon &2-5pmMon-Sat) and provides educationon 221312; www.hiyogacentre.com; Dal Lake Dal Lake , which provides free Dharamkot

Bhagsu ( Z Meditation Z Meditation % for yogaandmedi- 221248; www.tcv.org ( p329 ) and the is hometothe has handsome foruplifting (

( % (Bhagsu Rd; Himalayan Himalayan % Contact 221484; 220621; near

to Dharamkot,the just uphill. La Bhagsu. FromTriund,youcantrek to route alongthegorge fromthewaterfall at Ganj. There’sing backtoMcLeod ascenic Got(3350m)before turn- the glacieratLaka and youcanstopovernight andstrollupto Dharamkot. Triundhasasimplerest house forests to boulderfieldsandrhododendron trip through temple andthere are great viewsfrom volunteers. The lake hasasmallHindu itself welcome andthere maybeopportunitiesfor in Buddhist philosophy and meditation. How- in Buddhist philosophyand meditation. organisations offer long-term coursesSeveral MEDITATION &PHILOSOPHY Courses Yeti Trekking Eagle’s HeightTrekkers and porters. can alsoprovide alist of registered guides fers dates. courses It andexpeditionsonset range treks andadventure activitiesandof- Centre mour ( p328 ). Indrahar Pass over theDhaulaDhartoBhar- the4300mthe mostpopularroute crosses make arrangements. thenecessary Probably there are agencies intownwhocan several andSpitiValleys,Kullu, Chamba,Lahaul and It’s possibletotrek from Ganjtothe McLeod TREKKING .123himachal.com; Mall Rd) .123himachal.com; Mall (4300m)andtheChambaValley –( p328 ). A popularlonger walkisthetwo-dayreturn Uphill from the bus stand ontheroadUphill fromthebusstand Other reliable trekking operators: Dogga Centre. ronmental EducationCentre andoneatthe Ganj. There’s oneatLHA, oneattheEnvi- the filtered-water stationsaroundMcLeod water bottleforRs5to10atoneof tryside achanceandrefill yourdrinking a pollutingchemicaldust.Give thecoun- dreds ofyearsbefore downinto breaking will persistintheenvironmentforhun- by pilesofabandonedplasticbottlesthat The hillsaroundMcLeod Ganjare scarred PLANET! CAMPAIGN FORAPLASTIC-FREE ( % 221787; Triund ( % 221060; DharamkotRd) (2900m),a9kmwalkpast h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Regional Mountaineering Mountaineering Regional ( % 221097; www.trekking lonelyplanet.com canar- Indrahar Indrahar Naddi

HIMACHAL PRADESH

of- 325 (Tibetan (Tibetan get good good get 222467; itwa@ The annual . See p1155 p1155 . See runs from 27 %

( 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) lhamo lhamo 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) runs long-term runs long-term offers training in offers h Tibetan Universal Mas-Tibetan h 9418603523) Contact % ( Tibetan Institute of PerformingTibetan 220833; Jogibara Rd; courses Rs Jogibara Rd; courses 220833; lasses Mon-Sat) magazine for details. Classes c also arranges placements at a also arranges placements at a % runs from 27 March to 4 April runs from 27 March ( 221478; www.tibetanarts.org). h 220992; Temple Rd; 220992; Temple 220992; Temple Rd; 220992; Temple TIPA Anniversary Festival TIPA 9816378307; Jogibara Rd) % Pema Youton Pema % three afternoons weekly) Veg and nonveg North and afternoonsthree weekly) Veg % ( Contact 220894; www.volunteertibet.org; Jogibara Rd; (

9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd & 4th % (

(TIPA; (TIPA; h % ( h LHA LHA May to 30 May. to 30 May. May Indian food. Arts Opera Festival and the 600; check run by reports. & YOGA MASSAGE The well-recommended sage runs yoga classes at 7.30am and 5.30pm (Rs 100 per session). Festivals & Events traditional of Performances held on special are opera) and musical theatre occasions at the Taste of India of India Taste LANGUAGE complex, the Kyishong Gangchen Inside the Works & Archives Library of Tibetan gov.tibet.net; and for beginners courses Tibetan-language Rs 250 per month, experienced students for fee. plus a Rs 50 registration – several teachers independent Tibetan are traditional Tibetan massage. Courses run for run Courses massage. traditional Tibetan on set and cost Rs 1500. afternoons dates five 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) fers private tuition for Rs 100 per hour, or there tuition for Rs 100 per hour, or there private fers h registra- 222467; h VolunteerTibet VolunteerTibet registration registration 221059; Bhagsu Rd; %

( (lentil-flour (lentil-flour

10am-noon 10am-noon % h (

. Book the fol- h offers eight-day offers Tushita MeditationTushita Vipassana Meditation momos (Jogibara Rs 200; Rd; classes 9816468719; Bhagsu Rd; 9816468719; Bhagsu Rd; 9418187240; Jogibara Rd; classes , a community organisation that arranges placements in areas of need – eg – eg of need in areas that arranges placements , a community organisation % % Ganj PRADESH •• McLeod WESTERN HIMACHAL can provide advice on other opportunities for volunteers around McLeod Ganj. Ganj. advice on other opportunities around McLeod can provide for volunteers , which offers 10-day retreats retreats 10-day offers , which ( ( at the Gangchen Kyishong Kyishong at the Gangchen or mindfulness, meditation meditation or mindfulness, 220992; www.lhaindia.org; Temple Rd; Temple 220992; www.lhaindia.org; 221866; www.tushita.info; 221866; www.tushita.info; % 221309; www.sikhara.dhamma.org; ( Tibetan Welfare Office Welfare Tibetan

11am-noon & 5-7pm Sun-Fri) Tibetan treats, treats, 11am-noon & 5-7pm Sun-Fri) Tibetan % ( % ( 3-5pm Mon-Fri)

h The The One of the best places to start is LHA Library of Tibetan Works & Archives Library of Tibetan vipassana, 11am-1pm & 4-6pm) Courses in North and South for other projects working with Tibetan refugees in India. in India. refugees for other projects working with Tibetan h variety of local community projects. You need a minimum of two weeks for teaching placements placements You need a minimum of two weeks for teaching variety of local community projects. for serious vocational programmes. and one month or more There are numerous opportunities for volunteers to help newly arrived Tibetan refugees, from from refugees, Tibetan to help newly arrived volunteers numerous opportunities are for There To maximise the benefits for to skilled and training. cleaning up litter placements in teaching following places your existing skills.local people, always look for a position that matches The generally make their own arrangements for can match you to a suitable placement. Volunteers accommodation and meals. VOLUNTEERING IN MCLEOD GANJ IN MCLEOD GANJ VOLUNTEERING Many organisations seeking volunteers also advertise in the free magazine seeking also advertiseMany organisations in the free volunteers teaching, providing computer training and social services. Volunteers with two months or more with two months or more and social services. training Volunteers computer providing teaching, preferred. are to spare Sat each month) There are Buddhist philosophy courses at courses Buddhist philosophy are There Behind Tushita is the Near Dharamkot, the Near Dharamkot, with a different menu daily. with a different lowing courses one day in advance: lowing courses classes Rs 250, 3-day courses Rs 550; & 5-7pm) Recommended courses in vegetarian Tibetan cooking. Rs 260; Sangye’s Kitchen Sangye’s Kitchen Lhamo’s Kitchen Lhamo’s Kitchen Bhimsen’s Cooking Class Cooking courses in McLeod Ganj cover eve- in McLeodCooking courses cover Ganj dosasrything from South Indian to chocolate pancakes) COOKING COOKING complex for Rs 200 per month, plus Rs 50 complex for Rs 200 per registration. [email protected]) from April to November. from April to November. the tion 4-5pm Mon-Sat) on Centre retreats in Buddhist philosophy, plus courses philosophy, plus courses in Buddhist retreats students – seefor advanced for website the prices. current 9.30-11.30am & 12.30-4pm Mon-Sat) 9.30-11.30am & residential and 10-day courses nonresidential ever, they have strict rules on silence, alcohol alcohol rules on silence, strict ever, they have and smoking. lonelyplanet.com h Indian cooking. Centre Centre HIMACHAL PRADESH signing up. in Kashmir, butcheck thingsare safe before or ridge. Theowners runtours toPahalgam rooms, somewithbalconiesfacing thetown Kashmiri-run hotel offering arange of good 275-350) bathroomRs Rd; dwithshared bathroomRs90,withprivate Tibetan Ashoka, isrunbyaTibetan Loseling Losar A calm vibe and tidy rooms with TVs and A calmvibe andtidyrooms withTVs pick fromsit-downflush orsquattoilets. pie andallroomshave ahotshower. Take your inKarnataka.monastery based It’sagoodchea- flush toiletRs190/200) upthebuilding. higher the price,withviewsincreasing asyoumove in thecrowds.Thecleanroomsare asnipat Kitchen,Italian thisisanotherplacethatpulls bathroomfromRs150/250) shared/private overthe sunset thevalley. and agreat littleterrace restaurant thatcatches the friendlyOmhasarange of pleasingrooms A shortwalkdownalanebelowthebusstand, bathroomfromRs100/250) Nowrojee Rd;rwithshared/private greatcafé thatdoes breakfasts. ofchoice hasagoodselection roomsanda ofA stalwart the traveller scene,thispopular bathroomRs250-350; bathroom Rs100,withprivate of thevalleyormountains. of clean,simplerooms,somesneakingaview place consistsof twointerlocked buildingsfull GuestHouse Tibetan Ashoka BUDGET and OctobertoNovember. ings are fromApriltoJune stronglyadvised Popular placesfillupquickly;advancebook- Sleeping all theHimalayannations. Peace Prize,featuring culturaltroupesfrom Nobelto commemorate theDalaiLama’s hosts the July isalsocelebrated withaplomb. birthdayon6 at thistime. TheDalaiLama’s oftenThe DalaiLama gives publicteachings sions andmasked dancesatlocalmonasteries. 326 Takhyil Hotel Loseling GuestHouse Kunga Guesthouse Hotel Green Ganj From 10to12December,McLeod In December/January, celebrates McLeod Hotel Mount View MountView Hotel Om GuestHouse (Tibetan NewYear, p283 ) withproces- ETR IAHLPAEH • cedGn WESTERN HIMACHAL PRADESH••McLeod Ganj Downanalleynearthechorten, this International Himalayan Festival Himalayan International

( ( % % Down the same alley as the alleyasthe Downthesame

( % 221200; BhagsuRd;rwithshared ( 221152; Jogibara Rd;rRs350-450) %

( (

% % 221313; [email protected]; 221382; Rs300-500) 221087; r with squat/sit-down 221087; rwithsquat/sit-down 221180; BhagsuRd;rwith

( % 221763; offJogibara Above Nick’s Atidy (p283) i )

thang.net; HotelBhagsuRd;rRs660-990; stand, thisplacehasthefeel ofstand, anupmarket lagkhang, thiswell-runandpopularHPTDC lagkhang, before youtravel. tours toKashmir, butcheck thingsare safe Tibetan-style withagreat guesthouse, restau- there are goodviews fromtheupperfloor. cared-for rooms.Management isfriendlyand chorten, withanice atmosphere andwell- Bhagsu Rd;rRs550-990; Rd, offering viewsover sweeping thevalley. Most midrange hotels sitalongHotel Bhagsu MIDRANGE &TOPEND Rs 110/250) Guest House bathroomRs75/150) shared/private similar often steps full.Thesame leadtothevery rooms are butcleanandtheplaceis spartan terrace perfect forreading andrelaxing. The d withcold/hotshowerRs130/275) House youandtheoutsideworld. between outdoor spacecreates shield awelcomebuffer conveniences,with theallessential andthe behind Chocolate Log.Goodroomscome buildinginthegarden A curiousoctagonal chorten. Tibetan-style hotel justdownhillfromthe hot showers adduptoagoodpackage atthis 2200; a a Queen Him in season. some withvalleyviews.Again, bookahead hotel offers attractively decorated rooms, d Rs800-1600; musty. appointed, ifatad rant andbar. Roomsare andwell comfortable government, andthere’s anexcellentrestau- hotel atabudget price. It’srunbytheTibetan Rd; rRs500-900; is recommended. forting, homyfurnishings. Advancebooking rant andspacious,well-litroomswithcom- Hotel India House Hotel Kareri Lodge Kareri Cheryton CottageGuestHouse Rooms withviewsare alsoavailable at Bhagsu HPTDC Hotel TibetHotel Pema Thang GuestHouse Pema Thang Up somesteps off Tipa Rd, ) ) and . Theowners of the Annexe canarrange a

( % Loling GuestHouse ) Him QueenAnnexe Him A bright, modern hotel Abright, nearthe . 221709; Tipa Rd;swithshared bathroomRs80,

( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

a ( (

% % a

( 221184; HotelBhagsuRd;dRs800-2000; % ) Ontheroadabove theTsug- 221587; [email protected];Bhagsu 221443; rwithcold/hotshowerfrom ) Ashort walkfrom thebus 221132; [email protected]; Hotel 221132; [email protected];

( % a

( % 221457; Bhagsu Rd;rRs1320- ) Justuphillfromthe ( (

%

% 221091; HotelBhagsuRd;

( % hasalarge front and 221072; Tipa Rd;rwith 221002; rRs500-1200; (

% 221871; www.pema a Kalsang Guest Kalsang 221993; rRs450) Paljor Gakyil Paljor Gakyil ) Atasteful Hotel Hotel

HIMACHAL PRADESH A 327 Hot For For A solid Tue-Sun) h (dishes Rs 60-100, drinks (Jogibara Rd; dishes from Rs Crowded nightly and (Bhagsu Rd; meals Rs 50-100;

Inside the Pema Thang Inside the Pema (Hotel Bhagsu Rd; pizzas Rs 60-

(Temple Rd; coffees & snacks from (Temple Rd; coffees

(JogibaraRs 35-120) Rd; dishes A little bit of Seattle, A little bit of trans- (dishes from Rs 30;

(Jogibara Rd; dishes Rs 40-100) (Jogibara snacks from Rs 30) Rd; 10am-10pm) A bona fide traveller institution, A bona fide traveller McLlo Restaurant h 7am-8pm) 11am-3pm & 5-9pm) h Ashoka Restaurant h 6am-9pm) Moonpeak Espresso Chocolate Log places serve Only a few and charge alcohol Pema ThangPema Pizzeria Jimmy’s Italian Kitchen Take-away beer and spirits are available available beer and spirits are Take-away French Café o Nick’s Italian Kitchen A well-run Italian place near the chorten, A well-run Italianplace near the chorten, Taste of India of India Taste at a small liquor store below the Asian Plaza Plaza below the Asian at a small liquor store Hotel. Drinking Drinking starting to appear shops are Proper coffee around McLeod, serving decent cappuccino and English-style tea. coffee, Come for excellent to India. ported sandwiches. and imaginative cakes way, try made the French and coffee crepes The owner India. of this small café near Taste does magic shows some evenings. If you beer. Rs 150 for a big bottle of a steep ) opposite ( Tibet fancy a tipple, head to Hotel find you’ll ), where left or McLlo Restaurant ( a similar inclination. of travellers dozens of serving and a good pepperoni, pizzas with real pasta dishes. of range from Rs 65; brightjustifiably popular, this big, place above the bus stand serves good Indian, Chinese on and icy cold beers fare, and international the side. 150; ItalianGuest House, place this vegetarian wood-fired in a real does good pizzas cooked Drop by to book a table in advance for oven. the evening. h serving pasta tasty and and pizzas, vegetarian with hot choco- brownies chocolate heavenly Eat them now! sauce. We can still taste late inside or out on the terrace. Rs 30; 60) choice for North Indian food, with a decent Indian food, with a for North choice dishes. Come meat and vegetarian of spread a table. early to nab coffee and freshly baked cakes are the prime are cakes baked and freshly coffee attractions here. reliable Indian restaurant catering to the veg to the veg catering restaurant Indian reliable choose can from crowds. Diners and nonveg cramped room or a rather an indoor dining terrace. roof , A and and This noon- momos h A simple 221006; www GanjMcLeod PRADESH •• HIMACHAL WESTERN momos momos from 6am) % ( h from 8am) h The only deluxe hotel hotel The only deluxe (JogibaraRs 20-80; Rd; dishes 220655; www.asianplazahotel

. % (Jogibara dishes Rs 20-100) Rd; (

Down an anonymous track Down an anonymous ) Behind the Snow Lion guest- (dishes from Rs 30; i

The set menu changes daily at The set menu changes tingmo , you can check your email, too. , you can check (dishes Rs 20-80; (Jogibara Rd; dishes from Rs 30; Chonor House HotelChonor House

(steamed Tibetan bread) around the around the bread) Tibetan (steamed and

tingmo 7.30am-9.30pm) Gakyi Restaurant Green Hotel Tsongkha Asian Plaza Hotel

Lung Ta o Snow Lion Restaurant thukpa Food is authentic downhill from the centre. for come here travellers and many Japanese home. of a taste 8.30pm Mon-Sat) restaurant Japanese this popular vegetarian traveller-oriented hotel-restaurant serves hotel-restaurant traveller-oriented food and the earliest break- good vegetarian fasts in town. If you come in for dawn chai and European menu. well-established traveller hangout, with good well-established traveller and a familiar Tibetan-meets- breakfasts h house, this is the place to come for chorten. quick snack, local women sell tingmo nese staples, and commendable attempts nese staples, attempts and commendable food. For a at European and Mexican restaurants servingrestaurants – menus identical traveller pizzas, pasta, Indian and Chi- omelettes, Eating Eating McLeod Ganj is crammed with backpacker super-deluxe room with a view then sup at room with a view super-deluxe bar and restaurant. the rooftop mood and all the conveniences you would you would mood and all the conveniences to a roomy Upgrade expect for the price. .com; Bus Stand; r Rs 1600-3200) in McLeod Ganj, with a suitably ostentatious to the murals on the walls. There’s also a shop, also a shop, There’s to the murals on the walls. is and net café. Advance booking restaurant essential. wonderful handicrafts and fabrics. Eachwonderful handicrafts and has a theme that runs from the bedspreads Tibetan off Hotel Bhagsu Rd, Chonor House is a House Rd, Chonor is a Bhagsu Hotel off Norbulingka It’s run by the gem. veritable out with its decked are and rooms Institute, .norbulingka.org; Hotel Bhagsu Rd; s/d from Rs 1500/1900, off ste Rs 2300/2800; bus stand. Rooms have all mod cons and if and if all mod cons bus stand. have Rooms a tub and you get deluxe, to a you upgrade balcony. Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book but popular Tibetan restaurant with a great with a great restaurant but popular Tibetan the chorten looking out over terrace rooftop and valley, plus an indoor dining room for days. chilly HIMACHAL PRADESH Norbulingka Institute. the Tibetan Children’s Village. souvenirsbetan atfixed prices. Salesbenefit 15km southwest of Dharamsala. Ganj’s nearestMcLeod airportisatGaggal, AIR the Kangra Valley. ( p275 ) forafee. See p319 in for trainservices outof Pathankotbook traintickets forservices Many travel Ganjwill agencies inMcLeod Getting There&Away h Tib paper, and etan productsmadefromhandmadeselling the h Centre craft work fornewlyarrived womenrefugees. Temple Rd; Stitches ofTibet the roadtoTailoring Section. tion. Formade-to-orderclothing,headover colours andyoucanwatch theweavers inac- by 1.8mwoolcarpetintraditionalTibetan carpets. You’llpayaroundRs6000fora0.9m arrived refugees intheweaving of Tibetan Jogibara Rd; goods withoutthehassle. sure. localcooperatives offer Several thesame traders whoapplyafairamountof pres- sales Tibetan-run, butmanyare runbyKashmiri horns andgemstone beads.Someare rosary bundlesofwheels, prayerflags,Tibetan prayer metal paintings), bronzestatues, tefacts, including TibetanDozens of sell ar- shopsandstalls Shopping opera) andmusicaltheatre. performances of traditional open from10amtilllate. forRs60perhour, you canrackupatable for Rs40. onTibetdocumentaries alldayandevening screen DVDsof Hollywoodblockbusters and Half adozen videohallsalongJogibaraRd Entertainment 328 Other interesting souvenir outletsinclude Closer tothechortenCloser isthe isoffered by service A similartailoring Centre Cooperative Tibetan Handicrafts poolhallswhereJogibara Rdhasseveral See FestivalsSee &Events ( p325 of) fordetails 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Green Shop Green ETR IAHLPAEH • cedGn oBamu rk WESTERN HIMACHAL toBharmourTrek PRADESH••McLeod Ganj h h

( % 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) 8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat)

221592; www.tcvcraft.com; Temple221592; www.tcvcraft.com; Rd; (Bhagsu Rd; ( % , withahuge range of Ti- , selling productsfromthe , selling thangkas 221527; www.tibetanwomen.org; Norling Designs h , which provides (Buddhistcloth 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) employsnewly lhamo Jagson Airlines TCV Handi- TCV ( (Bhagsu Rd; % (Tibetan 221415; ,

north of Tohire thebusstation. forthe ataxi Rd) costs Rs1000. day, forjourneyscovering lessthan80km, McLeod’s TAXI table, below . the Ganjsee fromMcLeod onbuses details Formore fromDharamsala. long-haul buses and otherdestinations,there are regular 650), Dehra Dun(Rs480),Manali (Rs400) deluxe toDelhi(Rs400Rs private buses in advance. Travel on agents canbookseats Corporation (HRTC) uptoamonth buses you canbookHimachal RoadwaysTransport whereAll roadsradiate fromthebusstand, BUS lage (Rs40)andGangchen Kyishong(Rs80). Tsuglagkhang (Rs20),Tibetan Children’s Vil- fares –sample stand includeBhagsu (Rs20), isjustnorthof The autorickshawstand thebus AUTORICKSHAW Travels with a10kgbaggage limit.Bookat utes) Tuesday,Thursday every andSaturday, hours) viaKullu(Bhuntar; US$122,30min- (www.jagsonairlines.com) The pass is open from September toearly The passisopenfromSeptember village of Bharmour intheChambaValley. over (4300m)totheancient theIndraharLa route crosses This popularsix-toseven-day MCLEOD GANJTOBHARMOURTREK –see inDharamsala stand the taxi p318 . the airport(Rs350).Otherfares are similarto (Rs140)and busstation (Rs 120),Dharamsala KotwaliBazaar ishong (Rs60),Dharamsala’s . A taxi to Gaggal costsRs350. toGaggal . Ataxi Fares forshort hopsinclude Gangchen Ky-

BUSES FROMMCLEODGANJ aai 20 1 5pm (dlx);7.30pm(AC) 11 210 5 8pm 4 Pathankot 75 daily Manali 7 Gaggal 13 (ord/dlx/AC) 30min 290 5 Delhi 3 Dehra Dun daily (Rs) Departures Duration Destination Fare (hr)

( % taxi stand 00/440/800 12 12 00/440/800 220399; www.destinationtravels.co.in; Temple flies toDelhi(US$218,2½

( % 221034) 4.30pm, 7.45pm 6pm, 7pm(ord); lonelyplanet.com isonMall Rd, Destination HIMACHAL PRADESH

329 Just offers Up the Oppo- . A tidy new

(dishes Rs 50-170) 221935; www.megha 221013; r from Rs 300) %

( waterfall with stairways passing 221604; r with shared/private % ( (r from Rs 200) 221209; r Rs 150-500) www.buddhahall.com)

220501; r Rs 350-700) ; % (

% (

% ( Uphill from the main road Uphill from the main

221171 new temple % (

Hotel Highland Omni Guest House Pink White Hotel Various alternative therapies are available available are therapies alternative Various Ashoka International Restaurant Sangam Guesthouse Meghavan Holiday Resort Oak View Guesthouse EATING & DRINKING EATING and back- German bakeries is full of Bhagsu on is usually available cafés. Alcohol packer an ‘under the table’ basis. option serves poshest dining Bhagsu’s good Indian and Chinese food in a smart dining Right at the entrance to Bhagsu, offering spic- offering Right at the entrance to Bhagsu, and-span rooms, some with balconies. A new was added recently. rooms smarter level of place is this cavernous Hotel, Pink White site Rooms come clean and tidy and decent value. TVs,with geysers, phones and balconies. vanholidayresort.com; r from Rs 800, ste from Rs 1200) cream- up from the main road, this huge, Indian holidaymakers targets hotel coloured The upholstery. soft with comfy rooms full of than better front rooms with bay windows are rooms. the dark back-facing There are numerous backpacker hotels and a hotels numerous backpacker are There domestic targeting hotels posher number of tourists. spartan cheap but block of is this slate-roofed and a hippie café full of rooms backpacker be rooms should murals. Classier hotel-style this. by the time you read available guesthouse Highland, with a trav- near Hotel eller café out the front and decent rooms with TV views but have Most rooms and geysers. than others. better some are built by the raja of Kangra in the 16th century, in the 16th Kangra of the raja built by and a gaudy croco- a cement of through the open mouths You can walk on to Dharamkot dile and lion. a gushing or Triund via around. The quack practitioners plenty of Buddha Hall in Reiki, yoga and Indian classical courses cafés has half a dozen internet music. Bhagsu agents. and travel SLEEPING in the backpacker enclave, though there are are though there enclave, in the backpacker bathroom Rs 120/200) main road in the traveller enclave, this place enclave, main road in the traveller and cheap are but rooms looks a little tired, a TV,you get carpet and balcony.

Shiva temple Ganj Around McLeod •• PRADESH HIMACHAL WESTERN , a small baths

Stage Route Distance Triund Duration 1 (km) Cave (hr) to 2 Parao Ganj McLeod Lahes 3 4-5 Triund to Chata Kuarsi Lahes Cave to 4 4-5 6-7 to 9 over Indrahar La 5 Chata Parao Chanauta 6 6 5-6 11 Kuarsi to Garola 7 Chanauta to Bharmour 6-7 14 5-6 Garola to 16 5-6 12 14 01892 BUSES ALONG MCLEOD GANJ– ALONG MCLEOD BUSES ROUTE BHARMOUR

The stages on to Bharmour can be tricky on to Bharmour The stages

From McLeod, along an autorickshaw take

About 2km east of McLeod Ganj, Bhagsu Bhagsu McLeod Ganj, 2km east of About is developing into a busy sum- (Bhagsunag) cen- a popular traveller There’s mer resort. but things are the village, at the back of tre has The village upmarket. moving definitely a cold spring with Bhagsu Bhagsu % and catch a bus at severaland catch places along the . above seeroute, AROUND MCLEOD GANJ to Chamba. Alternatively, you can bail out Alternatively, to Chamba. be rewarded with astounding views – before with astounding views – before be rewarded descending to the meadow campground at Chata Parao. the From Chata Parao, without a local guide. descending back into the forest, path moves finally Garola and days to Kuarsi, three over buses you can catch on where to Bharmour, next day, you can cross the Indrahar La – and stage climbs to the glacier at Laka climbs to the stage Got (3350m) and continues to the rocky shelter known as Lahes start With an early the Cave. pine and rhododendron forests to Triund, to Triund, forests pine and rhododendron house. The next a simple rest there’s where the Dharamkot road then walk on through make all arrangements, in Dharamsala or in Dharamsala or all arrangements, make Bharmour. November and you can start this trek, and and you can start this trek, November Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book HIMACHAL PRADESH Dharamsala and ask to be let off atSidhpur (Rs andask tobeletoff Dharamsala available at theinstitute’s NorlingCafé. and handicraftsfrom theinstitute. Meals are rooms decked tale outwithBuddhistmurals s/dfromRs1000/1150) [email protected]; the characterful is thelarge Tibetan life. Ashort walk behind thecomplex h shop isthe of gildedstatue Sakyamuni.Nexttothe high gardens Also here are Japanese-influenced delightful benefitrefugeewall hangings,andsales artists. including embroidered clothes,cushions and produces expensive butexquisite souvenirs, thangka statue-making, forms, includingwoodcarving, traditionalTibetanto teach art andpreserve ingka.org; ful About thewonder- 6kmfromDharamsala, % Institute Norbulingka south alongaquietcountryroad. forRs250return.a taxi Tapovan isa2kmwalk to Sidhibari(Rs5,15minutes) oryoucantake of statue Hanuman.lingam anda6m-high Mandir, agiantblackShivaa colourfulRam spiritual retreat with of fordevotees Rama, inside theauditorium. bags, phonesandcamerasare notallowed visitors areand istight welcomebutsecurity on WednesdayandSaturdayat2pm;foreign Sidhibari. Publicaudiencestake placehere large government.Chinese the forfear thiswouldupset uphisseat taking (BlackHat) bannedfrom hasbeen astery inSikkim, theteenaged leaderof the isRumtek Mon- hisofficial seat Although ,whofledtoIndiain2000. the17thKarmapa ofOgyen TrinleyDorje, lage of Sidhibariistheadopted homeof About thelittlevil- 6kmfromDharamsala, Sidhibari &Tapovan mal tables. room withachoice of floorcushions ornor- 330 Set inthegorgeous Set Norbulingka gardens, Nearby isthe To get here, catch aYol-bound busfrom runfromDharamsala Regular localbuses ofThe temporary theKarmapa seat isthe 9am-5.30pm) 01892 Norbulingka Institute Institute Norbulingka ETR IAHLPAEH • ato hrmaa WESTERN HIMACHAL PRADESH••EastofDharamsala Gyuto Tantric Gompa and acentral h paintingandembroidery.Thecentre Losel Doll Museum Losel DollMuseum 8am-6pm) Dolma Ling , withquaintpuppetdioramasof Norling GuestHouse Tapovan Ashram was established in1988 wasestablished Buddhist temple Buddhist nunnery. ( %

( (Indian/foreigner Rs5/20; % 246402; www.norbul 01892-236637) ( % offers fairy- , apopular

witha4m- 246406; nor- in of town. rail line. pur isastoponthePathankot–Jogindernagar costsRs550.Palam- fromDharamsala A taxi 20, twohours) andKangra (Rs29,1½hours). leaveRs 20.Buses (Rs alldayforDharamsala anautorickshaw fromthecentreBazar; costs are spaciousandwellkept. large groundsandagoodrestaurant; rooms north of Main ontheedge Bazaar of town, has Cheaperroomsshareis right. facilities. prizes forinterior decoration,buttheprice 12.30pm &1.30-4.30pmTue-Fri) Palampur Tea Cooperative thetea-making processatthe hours observing Bundla Chasm from towntakes youtothepretty waterfall in andricefields.Ashortby tea trek plantations ampur isasmalljunctiontownsurrounded About 30kmsoutheastof Pal- Dharamsala, % Palampur EAST OFDHARAMSALA willcostRs250return.Dharamsala from where it’sa15-minute from walk.Ataxi 5, 15minutes), neartheSacred Heart School, from the Palampur road,thevillage of Tashi- About 5kmwestof and2kmnorth Baijnath, Tashijong &Taragarh costs Rs1000. Areturnbus stand. from Dharamsala taxi Paprola,through about 1kmwest of themain Pathankot–Jogindernagar railline passes timesaday(Rs35,twohours). The several passthrough fromDharamsala Buses sala. on thejourneyfromMandi toDharam- March. Festival atri pilgrims make theirwayhere forthe ofdating fromthe8thcentury.Thousands nation asVaidyanath, Lordof thePhysicians, Baidyanath Temple middle of thevillage is the exquisitely carved pilgrimagean important destination.Inthe facing ridge 46kmsoutheastof is Dharamsala, onamountain- The smalltownof set Baijnath, % Baijnath HPTDC Hotel T-BudHPTDC Hotel Pine’s Hotel The new bus station is1kmsouthofThe newbusstation Main Most peoplevisitonadaytrip,or astop 01894 /elev1010m 01894 /elev1249m ( p283 ) in late February andearly , or you can pass a pleasant few, oryoucanpassapleasant

( % , sacred toShiva inhisincar- 232633; rRs150-350) (

% 231298; dRs700-1300)

( , ontheMandi side % 230220; lonelyplanet.com h winsno 10.30am- , 1km Shivar- HIMACHAL PRADESH

331 museum dawn-dusk) h and religious and religious 265013; royalhotel@ % ( prasad On clear days, head to

Located on the main Located

265875; r Rs 350-550, with AC Rs 850) (Nagar Kot; Indian/foreigner Rs 5/100;(Nagar Kot; Indian/foreigner %

(Indian/foreigner Rs 5/100; (Indian/foreigner

( in the centre of town and along of in the centre soars above the confluence of the confluence of the above soars Kangra Fort temples dhabas dawn-dusk) Taxis in Kangra charge Rs 200 to Gaggal charge in Kangra Taxis On the far side of town, a Rs 80 autorick- town, of On the far side Trains pull into Kangra Mandir station, Mandir Trains pull into Kangra Hotel Maurya the or try one of For meals, eat at your hotel Masrur Masrur A winding road runs southwest from Gag- gal through hills to the 10th pleasant green century many Devi.the bazaar that runs up to Brajeshwari GETTING THERE & AWAY the tem- bus stand is 1.5km north of Kangra’s ride from the ple bazaar, a Rs 20 autorickshaw buses to Dharam- frequent are There centre. (Rs 29, 1½ sala (Rs 14, one hour), Palampur and hours) (Rs 65, three Pathankot hours), (Rs 25, 1½ hours). Jawalamukhi station, 5km town, and Kangra 3km east of south, accessible by autorickshaw for Rs 50 re- have Travellers and Rs 100 respectively. an auto from the problems getting ported stations into town. airport, Rs 350 to Dharamsala, and Rs 500 to or Masrur. McLeod Ganj, Jawalamukhi the battlements for views north to the moun- the battlements for views tains and south to the plains. A small at the fort has stone carvings from temples paintings miniature inside the compound and School. from the Kangra SLEEPING & EATING Royal Hotel & Restaurant r Rs 400-450) rediffmail.com; and the main temple of road between the steps the bus stand, the Royal has neat, tiled rooms plus a decent restaurant. with hot showers, A little closer to the bus stand, Maurya Hotel paint and rooms licks of benefits from regular good for the price. are of Ghazni to Jehangir, before collapsing in the collapsing before to Jehangir, Ghazni of style, in the original Rebuilt 1905 earthquake. through an atmospheric is reached the temple road, uphill from the main bazaar winding sellinglined with shops the bus stand,shaw ride from the impregnable- looking h was The fort and Banganga Rivers. Manjhi Mughalused warlords and by Hindu rajas, it was finally toppled by even the British before 1905. of the earthquake trinkets. trinkets. -

, one thangka Himalayan Hang- Taragarh Palace Palace Taragarh with several mural-

, , the famous temples , the famous temples Brajeshwari Devi Temple , the summer palace of the the palace of , the summer ) •• Southwest of Dharamsala PRADESH WESTERN HIMACHAL ( p283 ). You need). You to your own gear p283 ( Tashijong Gompa Tashijong Shakti peeths Shakti as

in Delhi 011-24643046; www.taragarh.com;in Delhi 011-24643046; r from Rs 01892 / elev 734m A taxi from McLeod Ganj to Billing will A taxi from McLeod Ganj to Both villages can be reached on the buses be reached can Both villages

Famous for its wealth, the temple was was for its wealth, the temple Famous About 2km south of Tashijong, at Tara- Tashijong, south of 2km About % looted by a string of invaders, from Mahmud from Mahmud invaders, by a string of looted va’s first wife, Sati, fell after the goddess was after Sati, fell wife, va’s first tem- consumed by flames – the Brajeshwari Sati’s left place of ple marks the final resting on the legend). for more p486 (see breast of the 51 of from Shi- body parts where marking the sites pay homage at the pay homage The former capital of the princely state of the princely state of The former capital of this bustling town is an easy Kangra, day trip from McLeod Hindus visit to Ganj. Kangra Kangra % SOUTHWEST OF DHARAMSALA SOUTHWEST OF DHARAMSALA train to Jogindernagar (on the route to Mandi) to Mandi) train to Jogindernagar (on the route for Rs 300 return. a taxiand take there cost Rs 700. Alternatively, travel by bus or by bus or travel cost Rs 700. Alternatively, Gliding Rally locally about enjoy the thermals, but inquire tandem flights. and hang-gliding. In 1992 the world record of of world record In 1992 the and hang-gliding. flight was set135km for an out-and-return to challenge come teams International here. for the every May the record that welcome passing visitors, and Billing and Billing that welcome passing visitors, pad for paragliding (2600m), a famous launch uphill to the village of Bir (1300m), a small of uphill to the village peaceful colony with three Tibetan Bir & Billing Billing Bir & Baijnath, a road winds 9km east of About that run along the Mandi–Palampur highway – that run along the Mandi–Palampur you want to get where the bus driver just tell off. A taxi from McLeod Ganj is Rs 600/800 one way/return. other ostentatious furnishings. There’s a res- There’s other ostentatious furnishings. taurant, a fully equipped gym and gorgeous grounds with a pool. marble, crystal chandeliers, tiger skins and skins tiger marble, crystal chandeliers, last maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir. Now a and Kashmir. Jammu of last maharaja seat this elegant country luxury hotel, is full royal family, Italian the Dogra portraits of of garh, is the extraordinary garh, is the ( 3500-5000; painting and woodcarvingpainting and cooperative. filled prayer halls and a carpet-making, and a carpet-making, filled prayer halls jong is home to a small community of Drukpa of community home to a small jong is life of centre The and refugees. monks Kagyud is the here lonelyplanet.com HIMACHAL PRADESH body was consumed by flames (see body wasconsumedbyflames(see p486 for tongue of Shiva’s first wife Satifell after her dependence. Since Independence, thecolonial England’ thattheBritish left behind after In- Dalhousie isanotherof ‘littlepiecesof those % Dalhousie hpchamba.nic.in. ofstation Dalhousie. continuing downthevalleybeyond oldhill eign visitors make itouthere, fewer witheven Pathankot andKangra, surprisinglyfew for- goodroadsconnectChambawiththough the mostancientstate inNorthIndia. Even offor centuriesastheprincelystate Chamba, Kashmir bythePirPanjal. Thisarea wasruled Valley andfrom bytheDhauladharRange lated valleysystem, fromtheKangra cut off The Chamba Valley isanothersplendidlyiso- CHAMBA VALLEY way/return Ganj. fromMcLeod to thetemple. Taxis charge Rs700/1000one belowtheroadleadingupfrom thestand and Kangra (Rs25,1½hours) leave allday countryside. located forwalkstothetemple andoutlying property, withwell-loved rooms,conveniently with ACfromRs1100; ablessingfromthetemple. without seeking ‘Lion of wentintobattle Punjab’,whonever the byMaharaja Singh, was installed Ranjit more onthelegend). Thegolddomeandspire 51 suing fromtherocks.Thetemple isoneof the in theformof anaturalgaseternal flame,is- Jawalamukhi, thegoddessof worshipped light, About 34kmsouthof Kangra isthe % Jawalamukhi the lastfew kilometres. for bypublicbusandtake alocaltaxi amsala as farLunj(Rs15,1½hours) fromDhar- Ganj(Rs900return),McLeod oryoucanget views. formountain the upperlevel Youcanclimbto Angkor WatinCambodia. a passingresemblance totheHindutemples at 1905 earthquake, the at Masrur. badlydamaged Although bythe 332 Buses to Dharamsala (Rs40,1½hours) toDharamsala Buses Jawalaji HPTDC Hotel The official websiteThe official forChambaishttp:// The easiestwaytoget here from isbytaxi Shakti peeths, 01899 /pop10,500 /elev2036m 01970 ETR IAHLPAEH • hmaVle WESTERN HIMACHAL PRADESH••ChambaValley markingthespotwhere the a ) isasuperiorHTPDC sikharas sikharas

( % 222280; rfromRs500, owe more than temple of of dm with private bathroomRs60,r200; dm withprivate Chowk; travellerschequespreferred tocash. 10am-1pmSat)About300msouthofSubhash Mon-Fri, bus stand;canarrangetreks aroundChamba. advise onbustimes. Mon-Sat, openSunApr-Jul) Oppositethebusstand;can HPTDC tourist office HPTDC tourist INFORMATION mas toNewYear. tolate October,to July,September andChrist- ble andavailability dwindles–runsfromApril isabout 1kmdownhill. The busstand Sarak (HotRd),which gets more sunshine. alleys –ThandiSarak(ColdRd),andGaram and GandhiChowkare linked bytwolevel roads. Thebuilt-upareas atSubhashChowk thereUnusually forahill station, are few steep ORIENTATION hour. rides canbearranged forabout Rs100per churches of of theridge. YoucanalsovisittheBritish- era carvings home inDalhousieandthere are painted of cominghere. admire theviews,which isratherthepoint plains. There isn’tmuch todobutstrolland hotels catering tohoneymooners fromthe housie PublicSchool andnumerousmodern mansions have joinedbytheposhDal- been cottage Rs650) pass thetimedownstairs. 12.30pm forcleaning, butyou’re welcometo hall. Roomsmust bevacated from10amto and facilitiesincludeanetcafé dining pin. Dormsare showers singlesex, are hot, Dalhousie’shostel isasclean anew stand, walk downabacklaneopposite thebus Youth Hostel Budget andbathroomswithhotshowers. with TV thefollowingoffer50%. Unlessstated, rooms expectdiscountsof atleast season, In theoff SLEEPING Trek-n-Travels Punjab NationalBank the pinesatopposite endsof theridge. Pony Hotel Crags Hotel Street islimited sobringatorch. lighting –whenroompricesdou- season The high Quite afew Tibetan refugees have madea of Buddhistdeitiesalongthe southside A steep climbbelowthe Subhash Asteep Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

( St John % (

( % % 242189; [email protected]; 205860; Tibetan Nearthe Market) 242124; Garam Sarak;rRs350-500, 242124; Garam ( % and (HospitalRd; 242225; St Francis h h 10am-5pm , set amongst , set i 10am-4pm ) A200m rock HIMACHAL PRADESH A To To 333 (2km) C2 B1 C2 B2 Dark 400 m Panchkula 21 22 23 24 Khajjiar (22km); Chamba (43km) Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary (8.5km); D 7

Rd 242199; Court Rd; r from Rs Lohaly Village Church St John's 242120; www.hotelmountview %

Panchkula (

% 18

( 0 0 0.2 miles 2 17 Tibetan Refugee Handicraft Centre...... (see 21) Bus Stand...... Taxi Stand...... Taxi Stand...... Taxi Stand...... (see 22) Bhuttico...... SHOPPING TRANSPORT 240605; Panchkula Rd; r Rs 700-1400) Rd; 240605; Panchkula Chowk Gandhi 21 (Hot Rd) % Garam Sarak A1 C2 C2 C2 B1 A1 C2 B1 B2 ( 19 23 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 6 Pedestrians Only 13

Sadly closed for renovation when we vis- Sadly closed for renovation Rd Hotel Ark Aroma-n-Claire Hotel

Hotel Mount View ce modern rooms with sublime Pir Panjal modern rooms with sublime Pir Panjal ited, this hotel is owned by a family of collectors is owned by a family of this hotel ited, bric-a- filled the place with bizarre who have It should brac and intriguing found objects. this. by the time you read reopened have .com; Bus Stand; r from Rs 1600, ste from Rs 2400) wood and period knick-knacks lend a pukka views. a Mughal mausoleum. Spiral staircasesstyle of modern to large, wind up the mock minarets room for a front lounge rooms. Book a deluxe with valley views.

8

1000) For wonderful colonial folly, built in 1941 in the Paintings Track

Tibetan Rock Air

Only Subhash Chowk

Forest 20 Pedestrians Hotel 10 (Cold Rd)

Thandi Sarak

24 9 15 Rd EATING Youth Hostel...... Café Dalhousie...... Kwality Restaurant...... Napoli...... Hotel Grand View...... Hotel Manimahesh...... Hotel Monal...... Hotel Mount View...... Hotel New Metro...... Punjabi Dhabas...... B2

B Hotel Aarti Chamba Valley •• PRADESH HIMACHAL WESTERN Court 5 offers large, B3 C2 D2 C2 B2 A1 C2 B3 B1 St Francis 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 and 11 Catholic Church 10 Market 3 Tibetan 242155; r Rs 550-800)

Hotel Manimahesh 4 Rd Patryn 14 % (

22

wk 1 Cho Police Station offer almost identical fa- offer

ore

12 Tag 16 AC 242362; r from Rs 500) Hotel Geetanjali % INFORMATION SLEEPING Hotel Ark...... Hotel Crags...... Hotel Geetanjali...... Post Office...... Punjab National Bank...... Trek-n-Travels...... Aroma-n-Claire Hotel...... Hotel Aarti...... HPTDC Tourist Office...... Hotel Goher...... B2 (

242433; r Rs 350) 242793; Bus Stand; r Rs 1100-2000) Sharing a lane below Garam Sarak, Sharing DALHOUSIE 2 3 1 4 % % To Banikhet (5km); Pathankot (80km) ( Midrange & Top End Midrange & Top End in Dal- The HPTDC runs two decent hotels housie – views. cilities: simple but clean rooms with TVs and has the better Aarti tiled bathrooms. Hotel Monal ( valley. nial house has huge faded rooms and a large nial house rooms and a large faded has huge the spectacular views of offering front terrace Chowk end of Garam Sarak, this big old colo- Chowk end of Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book offers worn colonial charm in an old house worn colonial charm offers Thandi Sarak, while just off HIMACHAL PRADESH h New Metro throughout the day toChamba (Rs 45,2½ throughout run (Rs 5, 10minutes). Buses in Banikhet any south-bound bustothelarger busstation take services, forlong-distance ably closed; isinvari- atthebusstand The bookingoffice Bus THERE &AWAYGETTING the ofselection Tibetan carpetsandhandicraftsat tico you’ll findfair-priced shawlsandhatsat toGandhiChowkonGaramSarak,Close SHOPPING prepared favourites. IndianandChinese foodinfavourItalian of familiarbutwell- down fromGhandiChowk,Napoliskips in burgers, pizzaandsizzlers. popular withIndianfamiliesandspecialises With anextensive menu,thisrestaurant is with hotchai cheap andotherSouthIndiansnacks, dosas excellentand huge wood-floored placeserving good foodforRs70orless. All are called Sher-E- dhabas at thebighotels. from 9amto10pm,butalcohol isonlyserved have placestoeat.Mostrestaurants are open Both SubhashChowkandGandhi EATING choices. rfromRs700) [email protected]; bland accommodation. Subhash Chowk,offering but comfortable tered together onAirForceRd,justabove peaks of thePirPanjal. fabulous gardensgazeacrosstotheice-capped rant andbarare aflashback andthe totheRaj oodles of colonialcharm. Therooms,restau- 1920shotelup toitsname,thisstately has sie.in; s/dRs1600/1900,ste2900) chintzytween andcharming. departed in 1947.Roomsfallsomewhere be- feel totheMountView,builtasBritish 334 10am-7pm Wed-Mon) Napoli Dalhousie Café modernconcreteSeveral hotels are clus- GrandView Hotel For acheap treat, there are Punjabi several Kwality Restaurant

( Tibetan Refugee Handicraft Centre Centre Handicraft Tibetan Refugee % ETR IAHLPAEH • hmaVle WESTERN HIMACHAL PRADESH••ChambaValley onthesouthsideof SubhashChowk. 240440;

(Garam Sarak;dishesRs45-200) (Garam

( %

to wash itdown. h 242775; rfromRs770) (snacks Rs20-50; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) (

% .

(Gandhi Chowk;dishesRs40-120) (Gandhi 240760; www.grandviewdalhou something Hotel Goher Hotel More than living h Ashortwalk and all serve andallserve andagood are decent and from 8am) ( (

% % 242253; 240607; Hotel Hotel Bhut- A

Taxi Other one-wayfares: hash ChowkandRs80toGandhiChowk. you’llpayRs50toSub- From thebusstand, Chowk, GandhiChowkandthebusstand. There atSubhash stands are taxi unionised Chamba, change inBanikhet. hours ateach stop.Ifthere’s nodirect busto a circuitof Khajjiar andChamba,withtwo bus(Rs200)at10amthatdoes sightseeing there’s(Rs 16,onehours). Inseason, aspecial goviaKhajjiarhours); aroundhalfthebuses here inthe16thcentury. of the fivecrude effigies Pandavas, installed Temple Khajjinag shore of thecentralpond istheslate hut–style by holidaymakers from theplains.On (meadow) isringed bypinesand thronged About 22kmfromDalhousie, thisgrassy KHAJJIAR at Dalhousie andKhajjiar passtheparkentrance between andblackbears.barking deer Buses have achance of spottinglangurmonkeys, provide excellentwalkingcountryandyou WildlifeSanctuary Kalatop hills aroundKhajjiar asthe are preserved orpublicbus,theforestedaccessible bytaxi DalhousieandChamba,Midway between KALATOP WILDLIFESANCTUARY Around Dalhousie aao 510 Pathankot 1150 560 Khajjiar Kalatop Dharamsala 1950 Chamba 900 Bharmour 1850 Destination Fare (Rs) 9.50am 10 Shimla 270 12.30pm 12 3 10am 7 Pathankot 54 daily Jammu 145 6 7am, 6 110 Dharamsala 100 11.50am Delhi 350 3pm Amritsar 12 & (Rs) Destination Fare Duration (hr) Departures 2pm Lakkar Mandi Lakkar Other services includethefollowing: Other services Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com . , with fine woodcarvings and , withfinewoodcarvings . Thepineforests marg

HIMACHAL PRADESH –

Sui Cha- is a 335 Harirai Man- Champavati 10am-4pm , the former h 11am-3pm Mon-Sat) h 224002; Court Rd; 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) 9.30am-5.30pm % ( (Rama) and 9am-8pm Mon-Sat) Near Hotel Mon-Sat) Near 9am-8pm h (Hospital Rd; Bajreshwari Devi Temple h features impressive carvings impressive features dating from the 10th to 19th dating from the 10th to (admission free; (admission free; Sitaram

Akhand Chandi Palace , ( p283 ) is celebrated each April each celebrated ) is p283 ( (MuseumRd; temples

(per hr Rs 40; (per hr museum , a local princess who gave her life to ap- her life , a local princess who gave 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) In the courtyard10am-5pm Mon-Sat) of Hotel Iravati, Between to the two is a small shrine By the Chowgan is 11th century , sacred to Vishnu. Dotted nearby Akhand nearby Dotted to Vishnu. , sacred Aroma Palace, with decent connections. Aroma Palace, Handles parcels till 3.30pm. Handles parcels Radha Krishna worshipped Raja Sahil Varman, of daughter Durga. locally as an incarnation of Buildings Historic Uphill from Chowgan in Dogra Bazar is the stately white of Chamunda Devi (Durga in her wrathful Devi Chamunda (Durga of Chamba and aspect) and superior views of the 500m north along About the Dhauladhar. road to Saho, the ef-handsome hut-style mandir with exquisite Durga) (an incarnation of Bajreshwari figies of around the walls. set into plinths Mata pease causing a terrible spirit that was a water drought The goddess is highly in Chamba. by local women and the four-day venerated Sui Mata Mela on the Chowgan in her honour. dir to stone temples similar are Chandi Palace has limited local information. has limited local stone-hut Himachal centuries, built in the in carvings. The largest style and covered Lakshmi to (and oldest) is dedicated Narayan Nepali-style (Vishnu). In front is a distinctive faithful Vishnu’s pillar topped by a statue of servant, The remaining Garuda. the man-bird to Radha sacred are Krishna, Shiva, temples and Mahdev Triambkeshwar Gauri Shankar, The compound has a Lakshmi Damodar. small Other Temples the Rang reached Mahal, On the hilltop above near the bus stand, or by steps via a set of taxi along the road to Jhumar, the stone munda Devi Temple Cyberia Himachal Tourist Office h Post office Bank Punjab National & ACTIVITIES SIGHTS Complex Lakshmi Narayan Temple six are the AkhandOpposite Chandi Palace sikhara Mon-Fri, cheques. Sat) Only changes travellers 10am-1pm displaying religious artefacts. artefacts. displaying religious Minjar around the lake cost Rs around the lake on the meadow costs Rs 150 – on the meadow costs Rs PRADESH •• Chamba Valley WESTERN HIMACHAL pony rides zorbing ( p283 ) in July/August in honour of ) in July/August in honour of p283 ( with a monumental statue of Shiva. with a monumental Shiva. statue of is a human-sized hamster ball made ball made hamster is a human-sized

01899 / pop 20,700 / elev 996m ZORBING ZORBING resortsMany of Himachal’s have winter in summer lease of life found a new sportthrough the One of the of zorbing. of sportsgoofier pieces equipment, the zorb Passengers plastic. from clear inflatable a tiny portholeclimb in through and the of the slope zorb is pushed to the edge gravity takes its inevitable course. where has no way of controlling ‘zorbonaut’ The control is partthe ball but being out of of on hand to catch you at the thrill. Staff are roll all the way the bottom, so you won’t spots for a roll Popular down to the Punjab. ) near Manali p317 include Solang Nullah ( ) near Dalhousie. opposite and Khajjiar (

Chamba sits on a ledge above the Ravi River. the Ravi River. above Chamba sits on a ledge There are plenty of fast-food restaurants restaurants fast-food plenty of are There In season, Bank of India, near the court house. India, near the court house. Bank of INFORMATION INFORMATION at the State ATM an international There’s Bazar, which runs uphill past the maharaja’s Bazar, the maharaja’s runs uphill past which palace. nics and promenades. Most places of interest interest nics and promenades. Most places of Dogra in the alleyways of away tucked are sports field known as the Chowgan, the focus pic- matches, impromptu cricket for festivals, The de facto centre of town is the open grassy town is the open grassy of The de facto centre Festival Raghuvira Rama). (an incarnation of in 1845. Every year since 935, Chamba has year since 935, in 1845. Every the annual harvestcelebrated with the tal of Chamba district is dominated by the Chamba district is dominated tal of The the local maharajas. former palaces of Chamba was founded in AD princely state of and it survived for 920 by Raja Sahil Varman until finally falling to the British 1000 years % capi- the tourist circuit, the charming Well off Chamba Chamba and several hotels, but most foreigners make make and several but most foreigners hotels, by bus from Chamba (19, 1½ a day trip here or Dalhousie (Rs 16, one hour). Buses hours) a day. times five run on this route 110 and 1km from . About above text, see the boxed gaudy modern towards Chamba is a Khajjiar temple lonelyplanet.com HIMACHAL PRADESH the Chamba Valley. slabs from around fountain ornately carved (local embroidery), relics fromtherajas and weapons, schools, pluswoodcarvings, ings fromtheChamba, Kangra andBasohli a fabulouscollectionof miniature paint- h Rd;Indian/foreigner Rs10/50,camera50/100; Museum Founded in1908,thetown Bhuri SinghMuseum at Rs300. dence of threads. knotsorloose Pricesstart patternsame onthereverse sideandnoevi- in silk,withaperfect mirrorimage of the mals Mon-Sat) the the royalgranaryandtreasury. Itnowhouses Mahal Rang during school hours. a postgraduate college; inside youcanpeek civic buildingsinKathmandu. Itnowhouses central DarbarHall isreminiscent of many home of theChambaraja. Builtin1764,the 336 1 3 2 CHAMBA A few blockssoutheastisthefortress-like 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, closed 2ndSateachmonth) Himachal Emporium Himachal –piecesof clothfinelyembroidered ETR IAHLPAEH • hmaVle WESTERN HIMACHAL PRADESH••ChambaValley Lakshmi NarayanTemple HPTDC HotelIravati...... Hotel AromaPalace...... Sui MataShrine...... Sitaram Temple...... Rang Mahal...... Radha KrishnaTemple...... Mani MaheshTravels...... Complex...... Himachal Emporium...... (see17) Harirai Mandir...... Garuda Pillar...... Chamunda DeviTemple...... Champavati Temple...... Bhuri SinghMuseum...... Bajreshwari DeviTemple...... Akhand ChandiPalace...... State BankofIndiaATM...... Punjab NationalBank...... Post Office...... Police Station...... Hospital...... Himachal TouristOffice...... (see21) Cyberia...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION im' n...... C3 Jimmy's Inn...... , which sells Chamba’sfamous , which sells AC (Old Palace), which oncehoused Pathankot (133km) To Khajiar(18km); Dalhousie (53km);

( % 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 222333; museum C1 D3 C2 B1 D1 C1 C2 C2 B2 C2 B1 C2 C3 C2 D2 C2 D2 C1 C1 C1 B2

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5 Rooms don’t get much light, but a TV and Rooms don’tget but a TV much light, cheapie nearthebusstand. run-of-the-mill

Panjal andDhaulaDhar(Rs900toRs1650 guides andporters inthefoothillsof thePir [email protected])

r Rs200-400) Chowgan Near the Lakshmi Narayancomplex, Near theLakshmi TOURS staff willarrange transfers.staff Mahesh Travels inChambafirst ( above ) and walksinthearea.some delightful GotoMani with nature. Meals are available andthere are isapeaceful placetocommune guesthouse the tranquilSaalValley, thisfriendlyvillage price. hot showerare welcomeadditionsatthis and geysers. All thefollowingplacesoffer roomswithTVs SLEEPING (from Rs450). well asinformative tours of Chamba’stemples per person perday,dependingonaltitude),as Travels Mahesh

23 Court Rd Court Orchard Hut Jimmy’s Inn Market Vegetable Fruit & 25 24 23 27 26 Sal River 3 15 26 10 C3 B2 B2 C2 Bazar Dogra Courts 14 20 27 12 6 7 21 About 12kmfrom Chamba in 1 Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 22

16 Fountain

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( % ( % Water % 18 224748; dmRs50,r200-300) 222607; [email protected]; 222507, mobile9816620401;mani- 400m 0.2miles 0 0 canarrange treks with 17 To Bharmour D Orchard Hut(12km) 19 (65km) To Saho(10km); 11 Jhumar Mani Mani (8km) A To 8 HIMACHAL PRADESH , are are 337 , on 225059) Directorate % 225036) ( % (

Manimahesh Tem- ( p283 ) in honour p283 ( Chaurasi temples 225056; r with shared/private %

( , featuring an eroded but , featuring On the lower road through style, with wide slate canopies, style, with wide slate Temple

, a three-day, 35km hike above above 35km hike , a three-day, Manimahesh Yatra Himalayan Travelling Agency sikhara 01895 / elev 2195m 01895 / elev , built in the 6th century AD, and the squat Possible destinations include Keylong and Possible destinations include Keylong Taxis charge Rs 400 to Khajjiar, Rs 800 to Rs 400 to Khajjiar, charge Taxis Treks from Bharmour can be arranged can be arranged from Bharmour Treks wildly carved wooden doorway. SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING & EATING Chamunda Guest House bathroom Rs 100/150) past the PWD Rest House, this Bharmour, house of lemon-yellow village has a range rooms with bucket simple, cement-floored through Coop Bank,by the HP State and the of Mountaineering Sports & Allied around Rs 1000 per day, including food, tents, season The trekking lasts guides and porters. October. to late from May Udaipur in Lahaul, Baijnath and Dharamsala at lake and the sacred Valley, in the Kangra Manimahesh In August/September, pilgrims Bharmour. Lake as dip in Manimahesh a freezing take the part of Lord Shiva. of home to the semi-nomadic Gaddis, pasto- their flocks up to alpine ralists who move during the summer, and descend to pastures and Bilaspur in winter. Mandi Kangra, & ACTIVITIES SIGHTS through bazaar leading uphill the Reached from the jeep stand, the finest. Built in the classic Himachal’s some of stone- ple Lakshna Devi hours). For information on other bus services, on other For information hours). . left seethe table, and Rs 900 to Dalhousie. Bharmour Bharmour % a perilous mountainFrom Chamba, road east to the ancient slate-roofed winds 65km of on the edge hovering Bharmour, of village a seemingly was bottomless valley. Bharmour Chamba of the princely state the capital of fascinating tem- are until AD 920, and there mountain to surrounding ples and treks are Bharmour around passes. The villages the Shaivite temples are spread over a flag- over spread are temples the Shaivite stone courtyard that doubles as an outdoor Highlights the classroom for local schools. of the towering compound are the track above the jeep stand. Expect to pay the track above

9am- h Up an Up an ) rice and rice and i Chamba Valley •• PRADESH HIMACHAL WESTERN – a chilli sauce – a chilli jheera chamba madhra chamba chukh 222671; Court Rd; d Rs 600- 225577; hotelaromapalace@ 225577; (Museum Rd; dishes Rs 30-70)

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(Museum Rd; dishes Rs 25-100)

(Chowgan; snacks Rs 20-40;

A modern HPTDC-run snack house,A modern HPTDC-run on Conveniently located at the south end at the south located Conveniently Delhi 370-390 17 12.40pm & 3pm & 12.40pm 17 Dehra Dun Delhi 370-390 230 Dharamsala 140 7 8 7.30am Jammu 160 10 daily 5 85 Pathankot 4 frequent Shimla 7pm 300 14 4 daily (Rs) (hr) Departures Duration Destination Fare (Rs) BUSES FROM CHAMBA BUSES FROM CHAMBA Café Ravi View ViewPark Restaurant HPTDC Hotel Iravati Jagan Restaurant Hotel Palace Aroma hours), some going via Khajjiar (Rs 19, 1½ some going via Khajjiar hours), can be temporarily blocked by rockfalls. Buses blocked can be temporarily (Rs 45, 2½ for Dalhousie run every two hours Six daily buses make the hair-raising run to the hair-raising Six daily buses make though the road (Rs 49, 3½ hours), Bharmour under the table. under the table. GETTING & AWAY THERE curd and a copper pail of dhal on the side. dhal on the side. curd and a copper pail of Beer served and spirits are surreptitiously nonveg food – order some food – order nonveg Opposite the Dogra Bazar, this place offers the Dogra Bazar,Opposite this place offers the tasty Chamba speciality the river side of Chowgan, serving side of the river Indian and veg Chinese a bargain fast food – including thalis (Rs 35) – plus icy cold beers. in most restaurants. Most places are open open Most places are in most restaurants. from 8am to 10pm. (kidney beans with curd and ghee) for Rs 65, curries. veg plus a good selection of consisting of red and green peppers, lemon peppers, and green red consisting of juice and mustard oil, served as a condiment EATING & DRINKING & DRINKING EATING Chamba is known for its in-house restaurant. of Chowgan, the Iravati offers large, well- large, offers Chowgan, the Iravati of better-than-average equipped rooms and a restaurant and a sunny terrace. Cheaper Cheaper terrace. and a sunny restaurant outside off their own bathroom rooms have the hall. alley near the taxialley near the stand,this big, modern rooms, a net café, tidy of range place has a Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book 9pm) yahoo.com; 400/500; 100, s/d from Rs dm Rs 1400) A great little restaurant serving little restaurant A great and tasty veg HIMACHAL PRADESH has arange of decentrooms,soothedbythe thissmallguesthouse stand, behind thejeep On thetrackrunningawayfromtemples Kashmir toKinnaur ( p33 ). as partof theGreat Himalayan Circuitfrom bers of travellers andSpiti are visitingLahaul over Growingnum- the4551mKunzumLa. little-visited Pattan Valley andeast to Spiti (5328m).Sideroadsbranch westtothe La (4950m)andTanglang La Baralacha mighty over the continuingtoLadakh oftal Lahaul, (3978m)toKeylong,Rohtang La thecapi- runsnorthover highway Spiti. Aseasonal the Tibet toBuddhismin the 8thcenturyAD. sambhava, theIndianmonkwhoconverted were foundedpersonally byPadma-in Lahaul ties. Accordingtolegend, somemonasteries temples are sacred toBuddhistandHindudei- pockets where of many HinduisminLahaul, the dominantreligion, there though are small streams. clinging tothesidesof rivers andmeltwater and villages of whitewashed mud-brick houses punctuated bytinypatchesdesert, of greenery of andhigh-altitude snow-toppedmountains rain shadow of theHimalaya–12,000sqkm work of interlocking river valleys liesinthe populated regions onearth. Thisrugged net- haul andSpitiisalsooneof the most sparsely The largest districtinHimachal Pradesh, La- LAHAUL &SPITI Rs 800/1000oneway/return. expect delaysduetolandslides.Taxis charge ing triptoChamba(Rs49,3½hours), but leaveBuses few every hours forthethrill- THERE&AWAYGETTING dhabas restaurant here isprobably Bharmour’s best. rooms withsoaringviewsover thevalley.The hotel onthetemple roadhasgenerous-sized this, after abigrefurb, wood-and-brick thistall dishes Rs35-80) it’s openbefore walkinguphere. sound of arushing stream. aheadtocheck Call English isspoken. hot water. Theowners are friendly,butlimited 338 As in Zanskar and Ladakh, Buddhismis andLadakh, As inZanskar As wellashotel restaurants, there are several &Restaurant Chaurasi Hotel Manali and isthemain gateway toLahaul Soma SapanGuesthouse AAL&SII • itr LAHAUL &SPITI••History onthepathtoChaurasitemples. Set toreopen bythe timeyouread Set

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225337; rfromRs300) 225615; r Rs 300-500; 225615; rRs300-500;

Chamba, Upper Lahaul cameunderthesway Chamba, UpperLahaul fell totherajasing powers. of LowerLahaul the region wasdividedupbythesurround- Mongol-Tibetan armiesinthe18thcentury, monasteries inNorthIndia. Tabo, one of themostremarkable Buddhist dhist learningalongtheSpitiValley, including of foundedaseries centres ofZangpo, Bud- western Tibet. TheGreat Translator,Ringchen incorporated intothevastGuge kingdomof hadbeen SpitiandZanskar upper Lahaul, ary Padmasambhava. Bythe10thcentury, the 8thcenturyADwithIndianmission- andSpitiduring Buddhism arrived inLahaul History hplahaulspiti.gov.in. visit thelocalgovernment website athttp:// Sickness(AMS;see Mountain p1188 ). rapid climbsinaltitudebringariskof Acute in Kinnaur. Whichever wayyoucome,the ged Hindustan–Tibet HwyfromRekongPeo times, theonlywayintoarea istherug- Atother on snowconditionsatthepasses. sible fromJulytoOctober. dates depend Exact toSpitiisacces- tober, whiletheKunzumLa are normallyopenfromJunetolateLa Oc- andTanglang La Baralacha La, The Rohtang inwinter. passes allthemountain Snow closes above 3000m –ensures desperately cold limited altitude–mostly rainfalland high climate totherest of Himachal Pradesh. The andSpiti have amarkedlyLahaul different Climate who get snowedinhere each winter. ing conditionsforthefarmingcommunities isimprovingtourism andhydroelectricity liv- and Spitiare beingrestored andmoneyfrom Thegompasofin exileDharamsala. Lahaul aided bytheworkof theTibetan government gence intheculturalandreligious life of Spiti, tion in1949. with Tibet occupa- upuntiltheChinese right of regimes, theregion stronglinks maintained was addedtwoyears later. Despite thechange a subdivisionof thekingdomof Kangra; Spiti cameunderBritish administrationas Lahaul ofby theDograRajas Kashmir, and Kulluand lated Spiti becamepartof Ladakh. of therajas of Kulluandgeographically iso- After the kings of Ladakh wereAfter defeated thekingsof by Ladakh andSpiti, For more informationonLahaul Since then,there amajor hasbeen resur- andSpitiwere conqueredIn 1847Ladakh Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com HIMACHAL PRADESH is is , and 339 (king), (king), s Of- ’ Sissu Gondla Markula Devi to visit his- PWD Rest House PWD Rest House thakur thakur . Overlooking the . Overlooking the , allegedly founded by founded by , allegedly Tupchiling 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, in New Kaza the – look for h Udaipur , founded as a Shiva temple but temple , founded as a Shiva 222002; in July. From Gondla, you can hike in July. From Gondla, you can hike % that may accept travellers. that may accept travellers. ( . , which hides fabulous wooden panels , which Assistant District Commissioner District Assistant Guru Ghantal Gompa Triloknath grey-roofed building behind the hospital. building behind the hospital. grey-roofed forms to fill out and you several are There need two passport photos and photocopies pages from your of the identity and visa passport – both can be arranged in the old Officially, should be travellers village bazaar. office routinely in a group of four, but this as travellers issues permits for individual can also be obtained Permits well as groups. and Shimla. in Rekong Peo INNER LINE PERMITS LINE PERMITS INNER Spiti and Rekong in between Tabo To travel need an inner line in Kinnaur, travellers Peo Kaza – free arranged in is easily permit. This around two hours by issued in permits are the fice 2nd Sat each month) From Udaipur, you can backtrack 9km From Udaipur, you can backtrack 9km About 18km before Keylong, Keylong, 18km before About basic hotels and the plain-looking basic hotels Temple and depicting scenes from the , carved in the 12th century. along the valley to the squat stone temple at the fort is no longer occupied, but it’s still an but it’s still an occupied, the fort is no longer sight. Try to visit during the lively impressive Gondla Fair of 4km to the village toric Although crumbling, the Padmasambhava. gompa contains ancient murals and wooden bodhisattvasstatues (Buddhist saints). of and a Gondla has a basic hotel (r Rs 350) Pattan Valley a side at Tandi, Keylong 8km south of About along the Pattan northwest road branches towards Valley peaceful spot with a few it’s a Chenab River, foreigners must show passports. The road The road passports. must show foreigners valley, hemmed passes through a sheer-sided moun- tips of in by rock walls and the white a spectacular hanging There’s tain glaciers. of the tiny village opposite waterfall to stayyou may be able at the (r Rs 350) tower fort, built famous for its eight-storey timber. stone and of layers from alternating the local Once the home of

beside a marks the dhaba Gramphu pass, the road plunges pass, the road plunges to warm up with hot chai (potato flat-bread). (potato flat-bread). (3978m). The name literally (3978m). The name literally & SPITI •• Lahaul LAHAUL and a police checkpoint where where and a police checkpoint Mirhi in , 5km northwest of Gramphu, has , 5km northwest of dhabas Rohtang La

aloo paratha dhabas Khoksar

On the far side of the On the far side of Government buses between Manali and and buses between Manali Government Realistically, the region is only open to trav- the region Realistically, turn-off to Spiti. There is only one building turn-off to Spiti. There in Gramphu – a rustic stone and several you’re heading to Kaza from Keylong. from Keylong. heading to Kaza you’re stream where you’ll have to wait for the bus if you’ll have where stream down into the green Lahaul Valley, a sooth- Lahauldown into the green Valley, and green rocky buttresses ing landscape of 66km northwest of alpine meadows. About the tiny hamlet of Manali, Manali for their first taste of snow, stopping at snow, stopping of taste for their first Manali the to death here over the centuries. Many Indian the centuries. Many over to death here a day trip to Rohtang Latourists make from translates as ‘pile of dead bodies’ – a reference dead bodies’ – a reference as ‘pile of translates frozen who have travellers of to the hundreds along the Beas River Valley and climbs slowly along the Beas Valley River rocky slopes to the bare through pine forests below From Manali the road to Leh strikes north road to Leh the strikes From Manali for the winter. for the winter. Manali to Keylong the passes before visiting late in the season in the visiting late the passes – before you might be stuck once the snows arrive, and buses east to Kaza stop when the Kun- and buses east to Kaza Check the status of zum La closes in October. October. Services continue as far as Keylong October. Launtil the Rohtang closes in November, Leh run from mid-July to mid-September jeeps run till mid- busesand private and share lages and medieval monasteries that are bliss- and medieval that are lages monasteries tourism. by mass fully untouched veloped than Ladakhveloped but most trav- and Spiti, whistle straight throughellers on the way to what Lahaul or Leh, missing most of Manali is an easy The capital, Keylong, has to offer. bus trip and stop on the popular Leh–Manali mountain vil- of you can detour to a number Separated from the Kullu Valley by the 4551m Separated from the Kullu Valley Kunzum La, Lahaul de- and more is greener LAHAUL LAHAUL cold weather. See the boxed text, p367 , for p367 text, See the boxed cold weather. tips on high-altitude travel. more ellers when the mountain passes are open, mountain when the passesellers are When- October. to late from early June/July clothing for bring plenty of ever you travel, conditions in winter. Even in summer, tem- in Even in winter. conditions and winter 15°C, rise above rarely peratures plummet below -30°C! can temperatures lonelyplanet.com HIMACHAL PRADESH has a cosy restaurant serving coldbeers and has acosyrestaurant serving to themainbazaar,thissmart-looking place 300) rooms have valleyviews. place offers decentroomswithgeysers; some two hours) andManali (Rs121,ninehours). dollars at reception. If themanager isaround, you canchange US andmanyhavejust right goodvalleyviews. are overpriced, slightly but cheaper roomsare food.Theluxuryrooms good Indian-Chinese upstairs. with afew staples, spic-and-spanrooms betan IndianandTi- lar localrestaurant, serving September). to (July outside of themaintouristseason bathrooms andgeysers. Ask aboutdiscounts All thefollowingplacesoffer roomswith SLEEPING &EATING various culturalactivities. ( p283) masks andtreasures fromlocalgompas. 5pm Tue-Sun) Museum Spiti Tribal of townisthemoderately interesting you’ll findmostof thehotels. Atthesouthend downinthevalley,where shiny newbusstand should have moved tothe fromthehighway easy andunhurried. the surroundinghillsandpaceof life is morning, butthere are interesting walksin andleavejust forthenight earlythenext Many travellersPradesh andLadakh. stop travellingstop forbuses Himachal between boom sinceitbecamethemainovernight town thathasexperiencedamajor economic the Manali–Leh It’safriendlylittle highway. of thegreen Bhaga Valley, spread outbelow sprawlsalongoneside ofThe capital Lahaul % Keylong Festival age site forbothreligions duringthe Avalokitesvara. Triloknathisamajor pilgrim- inside asShiva whileBuddhistsvenerate itas Padmasambhava. Hindusworship theidol converted intoaBuddhistshrine bythesage 340 Hotel Dupchen Hotel Keylong celebrates theannual By thetimeyouread this,thebusstand Buses runhereBuses dailyfromKeylong (Rs40, Hotel TashiHotel Deleg Nalwa Paying Guest 01900 /elev3350m Above this someshops onthehighway, AAL&SII • aal LAHAUL &SPITI••Lahaul

in Julywithabig,bustlingmarket and 23) n August. in ( p283) , with traditional costumes, old dance , withtraditionalcostumes,olddance (

% (admission fee tobedecided;

( % 222205; s/dRs200/250)

( % 222343; rRs300/1500) 222612; dmRs50,rfrom Lahaul Festival Lahaul Apopu- h Lahaul & & Lahaul Next Pauri Pauri 10am- luxe three. roomssleep All roomsare cheerfully chintzy andthe de- offering gorgeous viewsacrosstoKhardong. coloursland benefitsfrombright andalawn the bazaar. buses toUdaipur(Rs40,twohours). Infre-buses hours) pullsinaround8.30am. 38, twohours); thebustoKaza (Rs102,eight the 5.30ambusandchange atGramphu(Rs to Manali (Rs87,sixhours). ForKaza take There evening. same aroundfive dailybuses 440) leave at5am,arrivingaround8pmthe backtracking allthewaytoManali. in thispredicament, theonlyoptionmaybe Ifyoufindyourself ontoLadakh. find aseat are onlytaken inManali, soitcanbehardto typically JunetoOctober. bookings However, are passes tions whenthemountain open– sothere inbothdirec-Leh are regular services travellingernment buses Manali between and, Keylong istheofficial overnight stopforgov- THERE&AWAYGETTING plenty of is abargain. are spaciousandwellappointed andthedorm alpine skichalet. overpriced, Although rooms thishugethe highway, hotel isstyledafter an r Rs1000-1600; valley, the 900-year-old gompaatKhardong Propped uponstiltsthe farsideof the GOMPA KHARDONG ens thewhite chort- dirtpathuntilyou see rough –sticktothe uphill behind theoldbusstand boxed text, p372 . Thepathtothegompacuts the pending ontheTibetan calendar)–see dances are heldhere JuneorJuly(de- every views over the valley. Frenetic masked enshrined insideamoderngompa withfine sho. Theoriginal16th-centurygompaisnow Gyat- lamaDeva dedicated totheZanskari About 3kmabove Keylong isShashur Gompa, GOMPA SHASHUR Around Keylong minutes) and Darcha (Rs22,onehour). 18, 40minutes) andnorthtoJispa(Rs17,40 runsouthtoGondla(Rs quent localbuses HPTDC Hotel ChanderBhaga HPTDC Hotel For thePattan Valley, there are twodaily Assuming (Rs toLeh buses youget aseat, Aside fromthehotel restaurants, there are

Hotel Snowland Hotel visible ontheridge. dhabas Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com h Jun-Oct) ( on the highway andalong onthehighway %

222219; rRs550-1050) Northof Keylong on (

% 222393; dmRs150, Snow- chaam HIMACHAL PRADESH Gata 341 dhabas dhabas . There’s one . There’s before the road before before the road before Miru Upshi Pang and On the far side, the scen- Lato

. , and camping beds to truckers beds to truckers and camping

Rumtse , the second-highest motorable pass Lachlung La as it climbs to an even higher pass, the In either direction, an inner line permit is In either direction, In many ways Spiti is even more rugged rugged In many ways Spiti is even more There’s another bleak checkpoint and and another bleak checkpoint There’s The scenery along the final run to LadakhThe scenery is ery is truly something from the Silk Road – ery is truly something from divided by sand and scree, of endless ridges eroded buttresses. bizarrely go against the flow and travel west to Keylong west to Keylong go against the flow and travel or Ladakh. to Rekong from Tabo for the stretch required . p339 text, – see boxed the Peo Divided from the fertile Lahaul Valley by the LahaulDivided from the fertile Valley is another 4551m Kunzum La, Valley the Spiti Buddhist to India. transported Tibet piece of whitewashed of and tiny villages monasteries along the and there here dotted houses are scale by the sheer arid valley floor, dwarfed farmers Local the surrounding landscape. of greenery out a living on the small strip of eke the Spiti River. that hugs the banks of than Ladakh, and remote but buses run over to from July the Kunzum La from Manali Hwy to October, and the Hindustan–Tibet A steady open all year. is theoretically Tabo motorcyclists and mountain bikers of stream the most against some of pit their machines Most people start roads in India. challenging and exit the valley at or Keylong in Manali travellers in Kinnaur, but a few Rekong Peo parachute-tent camp at parachute-tent the 5328m struggles slope of up the desperate La Taglang in the world (the highest is the 5602m Khar- buses dung La, Leh). here, From north of You’ll speedthe Indus Valley. downhill into Ladakhi of taste your first architecture get in the chortens whitewashed in the form of of villages at police checkpost more highway north running meets the wide, paved between and Lehto Leh. are Upshi Villages . p380 on covered SPITI occasional overnight stop for private buses stop for private overnight occasional bleak and bit- It’s a between Leh Manali. and but the parachute-tent cold spot, terly hot chai provide and motorcyclists cyclists of and the handful way. who pass this the most spectacular along the route. some of ies winds through the road a ser Sarchu, Above as the known dramatic switchbacks of Loops 5060m , . , an where where

Patseo , dhabas Bharatphur (entry Rs 25; Sarchu ‘om mani padme ‘om mani padme 01900-233203; s/d Rs Ghemur Gompa % folk museum ( . On the far side, the road & SPITI •• Spiti LAHAUL offering basic food. offering on the main road and a 2km walk Hotel Ibex Jispa on the main road. Baralacha La is the last permanent settlement before is the last permanent settlement before stops. (hail to the jewel in the lotus). The sur- jewel in the lotus). The (hail to the

dhabas with its cluster of parachute-tent parachute-tent of with its cluster There’s another army checkpost at another army checkpost There’s

Heading north from Keylong, the village of of the village north from Keylong, Heading For accommodation, there’s the extremely the extremely For accommodation, there’s 9am-6pm) to the next island of civilisation, to the next island of City it’s a long, dusty drive From Bharatphur, before the road climbs over the breathless the breathless the road climbs over before 4950m named descends to the improbably Darcha Rumtse in Ladakh the and the end point of in Zanskar (see from Padum seven-day trek and there here checked are ). Passports p391 are most dramatic on earth. Wear your warmest the occasional the most of clothes and make dhaba Ladakh cold, bitterly and the high passes are the even in summer, but the scenery is some of Keylong to Ladakh Keylong to Ladakh to It’s a long, bone-shaking ride from Keylong inviting 1400/1800) a famous masked ‘devil dance’ is held in July.a famous masked south is the 16th-century mountain bikers and motorcyclists. There’s and motorcyclists. There’s mountain bikers a small and interesting About 20km north of Keylong, the pretty vil- the pretty Keylong, 20km north of About stop for Jispa is a popular overnight of lage a fairly long day-hike. a fairly long day-hike. JISPA manifestations, Sighmukhamanifestations, and Vijravarashi. by reached 6km from Keylong, is about Tayul statue of Padmasambhava, flanked by his two flanked Padmasambhava, statue of Perched on the side of the valley above the above the valley of on the side Perched Gompa Satingri, the ancient Tayul of village and a 4m-high elegant mural work has more TAYUL TAYUL GOMPA and take the bridge over the Bhaga River, from from River, the Bhaga over bridge the and take it’s a 4km slog uphill. where get to the monastery, head through head the bazaar, to the monastery, get path down to the hospital follow the stepped rounding scenery is magnificent and there there is magnificent and rounding scenery to track have but you’ll excellent frescoes, are To doors. or nun to open the down a monk of paper bearing the mantra paper bearing the of hum’ is a steep two-hour walk from Keylong. Main- Keylong. walk from two-hour is a steep monks Kagyud Drukpa tained of by an order a mighty enshrines monastery and nuns, the prayer wheel said to contain a million strips lonelyplanet.com h HIMACHAL PRADESH .jamyang.org) a 5m-high sitting Buddha statue. sitting Buddhastatue. a 5m-high river toKaza, there’s aBuddhist temple with theUS-based through schools teachingunteer placementsatthese enced teachers maybeabletoarrange vol- Choling A few kilometres furtheralongis the an educationforgirlsfromaroundthe valley. Choling of theSpitiRiver, passingthelarge and hotmeals. bathroomRs200/300) shared/private journey here; on toGramphuorKaza. Youcanbreak the (entry Rs25, the ethnologicaldisplaysat a passportcheck. Youshouldhave timefor lunch atthe strenuous days. ontheManali–Leh roadinthree La Baralacha atthepass,continuingto starts Chandratal Spiti Valley. Analternative 10.5kmtrailto at thetopbefore continuingdownintothe perform arespectful circuitof thestupas Valleys. theSpitiandLahaul between Buses creeps upto experienced guide. treacherous andit’sbesttotravel withan glaciers intheHimalaya,butroute is BaraShigri pointfortreksis alsothestarting tonearby 222724;perpersonRs500) through Ecosphere inKaza the lakeshore atthe tents incomfortable ontember, youcanstay snow peaksat4270m.FromJunetoSep- amongst atranquilglacialpoolset Lake), runs 14kmnorthtolovely hut Chandra. of stopforchaibuses at There are few but permanentsettlements, laya thrustupwards50millionyears ago. byglaciers astheHima- which was carved follows thegorge of theChandraRiver, From the Gramphu toKaza 342 vegetation onthevalleyfloor. stopfor Buses of concrete andmud-brick inscrubby houses At The finalstretch toKaza followstheedge The first village of anysizeis theroadleavesFrom Battal, theriver and There’s bridge second andasinglestone- dhabas dhaba AAL&SII • pt LAHAUL &SPITI••Spiti Rangrik monastery school atMorang.Experi- nunnery atPangmo, which provides . dhaba (BigGlacier),oneof thelongest aroundthefirst bridge over the h at dhabas Kunzum La , justbefore thebridge acrossthe 9am-6pm) Samsong Café &Guesthouse Samsong Café Battal at on the highway andthere’s onthehighway Gramphu Dewachen EcoCamp , where track a rough before thebusheads Jamyang Foundation Chattru (4551m), thewatershed has basic rooms hasbasicrooms Chandratal , theroadtoSpiti , asmallcluster Losar rural museum , a cluster , acluster Yangchen ( (Moon %

Sherab Sherab . (r with (r with

(www This book

bathroom Rs200-250) the topof theoldvillage, andwel- thisbright range – see theboxedrange –see text, p339 . permits fortravel toKinnaurare easytoar- Dewachen EcoCampatChandratal. ranges villagehomestays,toursandaccommodationatthe Ecosphere Ecosphere 80; can check emailsatasmall There isnowhere tochange money,butyou INFORMATION wear theirfinestclothes. sorts of goodsare andsoldtraders bought scend onKaza forthe isbelowthebazaarinoldvillage.stand Thewell-organised busandjeepmountains. to KiGompaandKibbertreks intothe Tabo. Kaza pointfortrips isalsothestarting range theinnerlinepermitfortravel beyond the new Kaza byastream. The toopen isset Dalai Lama the modernadministrative compoundatNew original, whitewashed village from isseparated valley floorlike apythonwithindigestion. The on eithersideandtheriver coilsacrosstheflat rise is wonderfullyrugged –jagged mountains transport hubof Spitisubdistrict.Thesetting Spiti River, Kaza istheadministrative and Sprawling over theerodedfloodplainof the % Kaza ing thestream. rooms on twofloors with balconiesoverlook- this modernhotel hasadecent restaurant and looking thestream atthetopof theold village, there’s an inthetraditionalkitchen and meals are served blankets. Theshared bathroom hasageyser, coming village homehasbigrooms withthick hot showers inthecommunalbathrooms. has cosyroomswiththickrugsonthefloorand side of thestream, thisold-school guesthouse ontheNewKaza thearmybase Overlooking and hotels. guesthouses Kaza ishometohalf-a-dozen SLEEPING &EATING Spiti HolidayAdventures inclusive mountain trips fromRs2000perpersonday. inclusive mountaintrips Hill View GuestHouse View Hill In August,villagers fromacrossSpitide- toar- atleastonenight Most peoplestay Snow Lion Hotel Snow LionHotel GuestHouse Mahabudha h 01906 /elev3640m 9.30am-7pm) Sakya Gompa ( % amchi Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 222724; www.spitiecosphere.com) Ar- intheoldbazaar. Innerline Justbelowthemainroadat cliniconsite. ( % in NewKaza in2008. 222525; rRs500-600) ( Ladarcha Fair

% ( %

( % 222711) Organisesall- 222331; rRs150-200) 222232; rwithshared net café 23) All (p283). (per hrRs Over-

HIMACHAL PRADESH On 343 ( p283 ). 226242; dm Rs 50, d with 226309; r with shared bath- 226309; r with shared 262223; r with shared bath- 262223; r with shared 226222; r Rs 150-200) ( p283 ) and again in ) and again in p283 ( (prayer ceremony) is is ceremony) (prayer % %

% % ( ( Losar ( (

puja , Tidy and well cared for, this and well cared , Tidy 01906-262201; dm with shared bathroom & 01906-262201; dm with shared ; the price includes meals. ; the price includes meals. chaam festival % ( Close to the village school, Rainbow Close school, to the village A big blue house on the main village A big blue house on the main village rooms 01906 Serkong Guesthouse The monks offer some basic but comfort- some basic but offer The monks Norling Guest House Dikitling Guesthouse Rainbow Guest House Passing tour groups have created a fair a fair created tour groups have Passing bathroom Rs 200-300) friendly place has the best rooms and the best and little in town. Proper furniture restaurant at home. guests feel murals make SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING & EATING several guesthouses village offering are There costs Rs hot water rooms and meals. Bucket 10 to Rs 15. room Rs 100) spartan but tidy rooms with a road, offering the morning and balcony that catches terrace sunshine. room Rs 150) meals. plain rooms and hearty village offers About 8km above Ki, this dusty village was Ki, this dusty village 8km above About At salt trade. once a stop on the overland to be the highestKibber once claimed 4205m, now it only claims in the world, but village in the world with to be the highest village electricity. The sur- a motorable road and satisfyinglyrounding landscape is desolate vil- evenand you can walk to other, remoter Kibber used the gorge. of along the edge lages to be the setting for the historic Ladarcha shifted trade fair in July, but this was recently to Kaza. Resist begging in the village. child amount of to hand out sweets, pens and cash; if the urge school to the village you want to help, donate instead. An atmospheric An atmospheric hall every the new prayer held in at morning but the original medievalaround 7am, prayer (peekroom is closed through to visitors the old statuesdoor at the masks). and dance to use put every June/July for The masks are the annual for February/March able cold water Rs 150) Kibber % the far side of the village, this place gets the gets this place the village, the far side of sun earlier than the competition. Rooms are neat and clean, and the pleasingly bohemian and old photos has easy chairs front terrace Spiti. of

This This May-Oct) h (admission by & SPITI •• Spiti LAHAUL 222236; www.banja % Ki Gompa (

222566; tents Rs 350, r Rs tents Rs 350, r 222566; (dishes Rs 25-95) % (

Set atop a 4116m-high hill- 7am-7pm). h

A slightly property HPTDC institutional There’s a single daily bus to Ki (Rs 10, 30 There’s buses to Mud (Rs 40, For the Pin Valley, As well as the hotel restaurants, there are are there restaurants, well as the hotel As Banjara Kunphen RetreatBanjara Kunphen

Mahabudha Restaurant HPTDC TouristHPTDC Lodge views from the top are extremely photogenic. photogenic. extremely views from the top are donation; gompa in Spiti and the ock, this is the largest About 12km back down the valley from Kaza, 12km back down the valley from Kaza, About by the Ki is dominated of the tiny village buildings of whitewashed Ki Ki Day trips include Ki and Kibber (Rs 600) and (Rs 1500). Dhankar and the Pin Valley The local taxi union is based at the bus stand, at your hotel. arrangements or you can make and Rs 4000 to You’ll pay Rs 1000 to Tabo or Rekong Peo. Manali Rs 4500 to Keylong, Taxi Taxi bus at 2pm. at and Kibber (Rs 15, 40 minutes) minutes) you at 7.30pm. This will give 5pm, returning time to visit Ki while the bus goes on to Kib- places in one day, walk or To visit both ber. a taxi. hire at 4.30pm. leave two hours) Sichling (for Dhankar; Rs 20, one hour) and (for Dhankar; Rs Sichling a second Tabo There’s (Rs 35, two hours). Tabo 102, eight hours). A bus leaves for Rekong Peo for Rekong Peo A bus leaves 102, eight hours). at 9am, passing through (Rs 165, 12 hours) 7am. For Keylong, change at Gramphu (Rs change 7am. For Keylong, Bus Bus the new The bus station is at the bottom of buses are the main road. There town, just off and at 4.30am (Rs 152, 10 hours) to Manali GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING THERE & AWAY traveller-oriented place serves range a huge traveller-oriented and the subcon- dishes from Europe, Asia of tinent. some traveller-friendly restaurants in the old restaurants some traveller-friendly bazaar. Spread over two modern buildings in New two modern buildings over Spread on to older travellers this place appeals Kaza, furnished tastefully Rooms are group tours. views over great balconies have and upstairs the town and valley. ties in the grounds. ties in the grounds. rooms, or permanent tents with shared facili- with shared tents rooms, or permanent Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book with a choice of plain but comfortable plain but hotel of with a choice 500) racamps.com; r with meals per person Rs 1500; r with racamps.com; HIMACHAL PRADESH with costumes, instruments, old saddles and with costumes,instruments,oldsaddles and anhour’sclimbuphillisthesceniclake of theNonokingdomduringtimes of war, the many-eyed archer Rahula and one-eyed the many-eyed archer Rahula vivid murals of protector deities, including prayer roomsand ahuge newmonastery with 600-year-old ing the cluster of at whitewashed farmhouses Sichling, winter climbingthrough meadows to the Kaza–Tabo about10kmbefore highway Kullu ( p302 ). PassPin-Parvati Valley totheParvati near trekeight-day runsfromhere over the5319m are rare. FromJulytoOctober, apopular of sightings eitherspecies leopards’, though sq km)isfamousasthe‘landof ibex and snow wind-scoured PinValley NationalPark (1875 Running southfromtheSpitiValley, the Pin ValleyNationalPark fromKazaby taxi forRs800. ling (Rs20,onehour)oryoucandoadaytrip Sichling. Dolma Guesthouse r withbathroomRs300-400) simple atthemonastery in Youcanstay highway. from thevillage of Sichling ontheKaza–Tabo twin peaksof of brick ( p283 ) withenergetic masked dances. Dhankar monkscelebrate the objects. InNovember,Buddhist devotional Tsongkhapa Chodrag. andLama muralsofwith exquisite medieval Sakyamuni, and there’s prayerhallonthehilltop, asecond ofstatue Vajradhara (theDiamondBeing) The lowermonastery buildinghasasilver of thevillage, withviewsthatinspire euphoria. Rs 25) Nono kingsof Spiti. village of of Dhankar,theformercapital the Perched above high theconfluence isthetiny blue inthemidstof dust-coloured badlands. with thePinRiver, creating asinglebraidof ofEast Kaza, thesnakingSpitiRiver merges Dhankar 344 Dhankar Tso Dhankar The roadtothePinValley branches off fromKazaBuses toTabo Sich- passthrough 10kmwalkordriveDhankar isasteep Above thegompaare theruinsof themud- Just downhillisasmall The 1200-year-old . About 2kmabove GullingatKungri,the iswedged rockyspurs between atthetop AAL&SII • pt LAHAUL &SPITI••Spiti fort fort monks’ rooms that sheltered theentire population , offering epicviewstowardsthe Ugyen SanagCholing Gompa Mane Rang Rang Mane (r withshared bathroomRs150)

(dm withshared bathroomRs100, Dhankar Gompa Dhankar or there’s themodest (6593m). museum Guktor Festival (entry Rs25) (admission

hasold in Gull-

logical andreligious displays.

hours) andSagnam(Rs30,1½hours). Taxis two hours), stoppinginGulling(Rs25,1¼ local lamas.Themainreason tovisitis riddled with and dramatic,theridge above townis hemmed inbyscree slopes,iswind-blown other townintheSpitiValley. The setting, % About 47kmeastof Kaza, Tabo istheonly Tabo to Mud. in Kaza charge Rs700toSagnamand1100 150-300) modern bathroom fromRs150) lage-style the valley.Foraccommodation,tryvil- there are someuplifting short walksaround and thewhitewashed houses moans between the trek over Pass. thePin-Parvati Thewind tothevillageturn-off of Mud,trailheadfor shared bathroomRs150) the tiny clean a small Ekajati, theGuardianof Mantras. There’s also and asunny frontterrace. is livened upby colourfulbedding andcarpets and well-runguesthouse gompa, thispleasant bathroom Rs200/450) offend might monastic sensibilities. ing, drinkingalcohol andotheractivitiesthat but guestsare asked torefrain fromsmok- Rooms have pipedhotwater forwashing, has decentroomsaroundacentralcourtyard. n bathroom fromRs150/300; dm Rs70,rwithshared/private road. the gompa,orstrungoutalongmain inTaboGuesthouses are clustered around SLEEPING h make callsatthe theboxedin theworld–see text, opposite . someof thefinestIndo- preserving Gompa Buses rundailyfromKazaBuses toMud(Rs40, Southwest of Gulling, atthemonasteryYou canstay inplain, Maitreya Guesthouse Maitreya Guesthouse Monastery Millennium You maybeable tocheck youremailand ) 7am-9pm) 01906 Runbythemonastery, thispopularplace rooms (admission bydonation) , below the hospital. , belowthehospital. museum PWD Resthouse Hotel Himalaya Hotel Snow LeopardGuesthouse near the bus stand. nearthebusstand. Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

(r withshared bathroomRs250) caves (Rs 25; bythemainroad,or On thenorthside of the used as meditation cellsby asmeditation used inGulling. Tabo CyberCafé h

( % , aWorldHeritage site

(r withshared bathroomRs 10am-6pm) ( % 223329; s/dwithshared Sagnam 01906-242314; rwith with ethno-

(per hrRs60; (r withshared marks the ( orthere’s % 223315; Tabo Tabo HIMACHAL PRADESH , 345 Chango 9.45-11.45am , containing , containing gSer-Khang gSer-Khang . h (prayer ceremony) (prayer ceremony) puja , with more Kashmiri-style , with more (admission free; (admission free; has a permit checkpost and the has a permit checkpost 9am-noon & 2-5pm) (Assembly Hall), a dark and at- (Assembly h (Mystic Mandala Temple) containing containing (Mystic Mandala Temple) Sumdo Byams-pa Chenpo Lha-Khang From Tabo, the road follows the narrow- the road follows From Tabo, Overnight stops used to be forbidden, but Buddhist library road starts its ascent into the hills at at Sumdo and Jangi. Some of the following following the Some of at Sumdo and Jangi. in Kinnaur, but they technically places are the form part of since they here covered are Spiti circuit. the ridge soaring over before ing Spiti Valley, This could the Sutlej River. into the valley of and hair-raising well be the most dangerous have road in India – even die-hard travellers their rosariesbeen as the bus known to finger skids around hairpin bends with millimetres the Spiti Nevertheless, the views of to spare. mesmeris- flashing 2000m below are River ing. seven days to complete now have travellers the trip. 187, 15 hours) at 5am. Taxis charge Rs 1000 to Rs 1000 to charge 5am. Taxis at hours) 187, 15 Peo. 3500 to Rekong and Rs Kaza Peo Tabo to Rekong the highway Tabo road from Theoretically, is open all year, in Kinnaur to Rekong Peo the Spiti access to the only winter providing However, the highway has been Valley. A by the Sutlej River. repeatedly washed away helping are hydroelectric projects number of the river, power of to tame the destructive is intact the road but it’s worth checking You will need Tabo. heading east of before inner line permit to show your passport and which has several which Buddhist temples. (admission Rs 10; gTsug Lha-Khang gTsug , es- Run Large Brom-Ston Lha-Khang Large dKyil-hKhar-Khang dKyil-hKhar-Khang Also on museum momos & SPITI •• Spiti LAHAUL Run by the , with murals of Sakyamuni and his disciples. , with murals of Sakyamuni and his disciples. May-Oct) h 233381; www.banjaracamps 223384; r Rs 350-550) 223384; %

( % ( (dishes from Rs 25) and a small religious and a small religious (rice beer) on request. (rice beer) on request. (sacred compound) at Tabo was founded in AD 996 by the Great Translator, Ringchen Translator, Ringchen was founded in AD 996 by the Great compound) at Tabo (sacred Brom-Ston Lha-Khang chang chang choskhor The modern gompa outside the compound has a well-attended morning has a well-attended modern gompa outside the compound The To the right of the gTsug Lha-Khang are the smaller Lha-Khang are To the right of the gTsug The compound is centred on the huge compound is centred The is the To the left of the main temple at 6.30am, and the monastery guesthouse contains a at 6.30am, and the monastery a 6m-high Maitreya statue and murals of the Tashi-Chunpo Temple and Potala Palace in Tibet, in Tibet, and Potala Palace Temple statue and murals of the Tashi-Chunpo a 6m-high Maitreya and the a giant frieze of surrounded by giant mandalas. mandalas. surrounded by giant of Vairocana frieze a giant (Golden Temple), with a large seated Buddha and detailed paintings of celestial deities on the roof roof Buddha and detailed paintings of celestial deities on the seated with a large (Golden Temple), is the Behind the gSer-Khang and walls. TABO TABO GOMPA The Visitors from Kashmir the walls. the best Buddhist mural painters to decorate Zangpo, who hired new door. at the modern monastery must arrange a time to view the murals with the monks stucco statues of 33 and suspended life-sized murals mospheric chamber ringed by exquisite of the chamber, the at the rear Vairocana effigy of Together with the four-sided bodhisattvas. a three-dimensional mandala. statues create again is the carved through an intricately doorway. Left wooden murals, reached & 2-4pm Jun-Sep) Café Kunzum Top Banjara Tabo Retreat Banjara Tabo Trojan Guesthouse Trojan presso coffee and compote made with local and compote coffee presso (Rs 130, 10 hours) at 11am and for Manali (Rs at 11am and for Manali (Rs 130, 10 hours) are morning and afternoon buses to Kaza (Rs buses morning and afternoon to Kaza are Peo for Rekong and buses leave 35, two hours), Now that the road to Rekong Peo has been has re- Now that the road to Rekong Peo is easy. There from Tabo onward travel paired, GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE apples. Beers are available and Sonam can and Sonam can apples. Beers available are arrange energetic and widely travelled Sonam, this this Sonam, and widely travelled energetic Spitian café servescheerful tasty beer, try the restaurant at the Banjara Tabo at the Banjarabeer, Tabo try the restaurant Retreat. Café at the Maitreya Guesthouse and the Guesthouse and the Café the Maitreya at op- reliable Zion Caféreggae-themed are meal and cold tions. For an upmarket Half-a-dozen simple restaurants serveHalf-a-dozen simple restaurants Ti- Third Eye betan, Indian and Chinese fare. EATING EATING .com; r with meals per person Rs 1500; .com; r with meals place the highway, this appealing midrange to passing travellers rooms its tasteful rents out by groups. when it isn’t booked It’s on the highway before the turn-off to the It’s on the highway before bus stand. do exist! – the Trojan has very welcoming welcoming has very the Trojan do exist! – vibe. reggae and plenty of rooms carpeted Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book by a group of Spitian Rastafarians Spitian of by a group they – yes, HIMACHAL PRADESH gang be abletotrek totheancientgompasat Depending onthepermitsituation,youmay the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake greenerthrough countryinthenarrowgorge Rs 200,ortheposher ing roomswithshared bathroomforaround murals andsculptures. NakoGompa rounded bythe11th-centurybuildingsof the village iscentred onasmalllake, sur- Asianlandscape here isvaguelyCentral and themainroad.The about1kmoff houses is 346 © LonelyPlanetPublications Nako The final stage ofThe finalstage thejourneypasses There offer- are simpleguesthouses several withaccommodation The first settlement and AAL&SII • pt LAHAUL &SPITI••Spiti , apretty village of white mud-brick Somang , containing somefineTabo-style, containing . Reo Purgil Hotel Hotel Purgil Reo (r Rs400) Tashi- . Zangpo inthe10thcentury. Zangpo at end of pointof thepermitzoneandstart from RekongPeo. is required, ifyoujustdoadaytriphere even dhist monastery at you cancontinue14kmuphilltovisittheBud- has anumberof Kinnauri-styletemples and around KinnerKailash (6050m).Thevillage the Guesthouse Monastic Retreat atthe Youmaybeabletostay Drukpa sect. are twocolourfulgompasbelongingtothe crossingintoKinnaurandtherethe official of theSutlejRiver. Thevillage of Khanum There are more monasteries andtemples parikrama , nearSpillo,foundedbyRingchen (ceremonial circumnavigation) Lippa . Aninnerlinepermit (r Rs350) lonelyplanet.com Jangi Jangi . marks the Puh marks