The Samoggia Valley

14 The River Samoggia sicetana, and then flows into the Reno near At 44 kilometres long, the Samoggia is the lon- San Matteo della Decima. gest tributary on the left of the Reno. Its sour- Historically, the basin of the Samoggia has ce is near Zocca (), but it enters almost always been considered a transition zone bet- at once into the Bolognese territory where it ween the areas of and Modena, a runs the rest of its course. zone rich in over a thousand years of history. In the hilly area, the valleys of the three major An imposing witness to the valley’s history is rivers (Lavino, Samoggia and Ghiaia di Serra- the famous Abbey of , whose valle) have interesting countryside, marked by castle, together with that of Serravalle, was the jagged geometry of the gypsums. The area controlled by Queen Matilde of . In also produces the famous wine, the D.O.C. 1325, at Zappolino, on the River Ghiaia di Ser- Pignoletto dei Colli Bolognesi, a sparkling ravalle, there was the famous battle between white with a rare, particular bouquet. the Bolognese and Modenese with the episo- Passing , Monteveglio and Bazzano, at de of “the stolen bucket”, still part of the Calcara di the Samoggia enters legendary rivalry between the two cities. the plains, where its course is contained by imposing banks. Along its course on the plains, Vineyards of the Samoggia Valley it meets the two main transport arteries in this Photo by Comunità Montana Valle del Samoggia part of the territory, the Via and Via Per- Riccardo Solmi

River Samoggia Photo by Comunità Montana Valle del Samoggia - Riccardo Solmi 15 The Samoggia Valley the Apennines

Crespellano

Bazzano

Zola Predosa

Monteveglio

Castello Monte di Serravalle San Pietro

Savigno

Tourist Information - IAT Tourist Office Villa Garagnani - Via Masini, 11 40069 - Zola Predosa (BO) Tel. 051.752472 - [email protected] - www.iatzola.it Opening times: Monday and Tuesday 9am-3pm Wednesday and Thursday 9-12am / 3-6pm Friday 12am-6pm Saturday 8am-2pm

Tourist itinerary The itinerary through the hilly stretch starts Not to be missed: from the ancient Via Claudia, today the The noble villas between Zola and Crespellano Bazzanese highway (SS569), connecting The museum complex of Ca’ La Ghironda Bologna to Maranello, and then follows the The Rocca di Bazzano two roads along the Samoggia and Lavino The Abbey of Monteveglio and the Natural Park valley-bottoms. The medieval village of The Astronomical Observatory of - Zola Predosa The Nigelli private collection of motorbikes - Crespellano of Monte San Pietro - Bazzano The Golf Club in Crespellano and Monte San Pietro - Monteveglio The DOC Wines dei Colli Bolognesi - Castello di Serravalle The white truffles of Savigno - Savigno The Wine and Flavours Route “Cities, Castles, - Monte San Pietro and Cherries”

16 History and Environment The annual calendar is also packed with events The Apennine part of the Samoggia Valley which enliven the territory in every season winds through gentle hills to the west of and offer the precious op-portunity of visiting Bologna, on the border with the territory of places that are not always open to the public. Modena. From the high plains around Crespel- lano, the valley rises to 817 metres a.s.l. at Buon appetito Savigno, crossed by the waters of the Samog- The extraordinary richness of its traditional gia and Lavino, its major tributary. The Samog- food and wine specialities is undoubtedly the gia valley will not disappoint any traveller Samoggia Valley’s best calling card. A highly interested in discovering unusual historical or varied and appetising collection, it is based artistic itineraries, making it all the more inte- on food and wine of the highest quality, roote resting. An ancient borderland between Empi- in the ancient farming traditions of this land: re and Papacy, the valley is rich in castles and Mortadella IGP from Bologna, Parmigiano- medieval fortifications linked to the figure of Reggiano DOP, Pignoletto DOC Colli Bolo- Matilde of Canossa, whose dominion marked gnesi, balsamic vinegar, chestnuts and truffles the history of the valley. Here you will find the are only the tip of this diamond. Products Regional Park of the Abbey of Monteveglio, a which have remained faithful to the methods protected historical and environmental area of the past, with that attention to the requi- aimed at promoting the educational and tou- rements of quality and genuineness which is rist possibilities of the territory. In the centre more and more appreciated today. Biological, of the Park, there are the ruins of one of Matil- original and seasonal are more than just de’s castles and the ancient Abbey of Santa words here. They are values that can be found Maria, in all their fascinating history. Then the- in the “Mercato delle cose buone” (Market of re is Castello di Serravalle, intact in its medie- Fine Produce). Created to give this heritage val village mystery, complete with obligatory the value it deserves, La Strada dei Vini e dei ghost, and Bazzano, a small artistic town, Sapori “Città Castelli e Ciliegi” (The Wine and dominated by a fortress, the Rocca dei Benti- Flavours Route “Cities, Castles and Cherries”) voglio. Between Zola Predosa and Crespel- accompanies discerning tourists through the lano, you can discover some of the most beau- wine and gastronomic secrets of the valley in tiful country-houses of the Bolognese nobili- an itinerary which will remain impressed on ty: treasures of art and architecture which their taste buds. The blossoming of the cher- have since the 17th century enriched the coun- ry trees in spring is worth a visit in itself. tryside between the Via Emilia and the Bazzanese highway. Nature-lovers should re- How to get here member that the hills of the Samoggia Valley - A1 Motorway Milan-Rome: from Florence, are a genuine open-air geology manual, mar- exit at , then continue ked by the spectacular morphology of the in the direction of Vignola-Maranello; “calanchi” (gullies). There are numerous organi- from Modena, exit at Modena Sud, then sed visits, including “Itinerando” which every continue for Vignola and Bazzano. year presents a rich programme of excursions - Road: from Bologna, follow the State and trekking through the valley in search of its Highway, the Bazzanese, in the direction treasures, always accompanied by expert natu- of Maranello; from Modena, the State re guides. The ancient pilgrims’ trail, the Highway 623 of Passo Brasa. “Cassìola”, used to pass along the Samoggia - Railway: Bologna-Vignola: stations in Casa- Valley and then over the range between the lecchio di Reno, Zola Predosa, Crespellano Samoggia and , leading them to the and Bazzano. Suburban trains every hour high Apennine passes for Pistoia and then from the station Bologna Centrale. Lucca and the Tyrrhenian Sea. - Buses ATC connect the towns to each other and Bologna. www.atc.bo.it. Gastronomy and Wine The Mercato delle cose buone (Market of Fi- Events ne Produce) is an old-fashioned market, whe- Courts, Churches and Courtyards re you can buy directly from the producers. Corti, Chiese e Cortili (Courts, Churches and The stalls are run by producers from the Sa- Courtyards) is a musical event which from May moggia Valley. The majority of the products to August presents a rich programme of classi- are local, biological foodstuffs, but there is al- cal, sacred and traditional concerts, which ha- so local craftwork and fair-trade produce. ve for years highlighted places of great histori- Every occasion of this travelling cal and architectural interest. market is accompanied by Info: Tel. 051.836445, [email protected] shows in the local squares. www.artedeisuoni.org

17 Zola Predosa

The territory of Zola Predosa, just 12 kilome- Francesco Raibolini, known as Il Francia (1450- tres from the centre of Bologna, lies between 1517), an important figure of the Bolognese high plains and gentle hills, with grape cultiva- Renaissance. tion dominating. A land that has produced wine of value since the Middle Ages (it is even Recently restored, Villa Edwige Garagnani mentioned in a parchment from 1033 kept in today houses the Tourist Office in charge of the Abbey of Nonantola). In fact, it was speci- all the Samoggia Valley. Built in the second fically for the transportation of wine that a half of the 18th century, the villa is a beautiful road across the hills was built in 1250, which example of a bourgeois holiday residence. today is the local stretch of the Wine and There are beautiful woodland frescoes attri- Flavours Route “Cities, Castles, and Cherries”. buted to the Basoli. Zola is a member of the National Association of “Wine Cities”. However, it is along the River Lavino, a tribu- tary of the Samoggia, that in the space of just Palazzo Stella is the ancient seat of the 4 kilometres there is a concentration of some Municipality of Zola. Outside a memorial pla- of the most beautiful historical Bolognese que recalls the local origins of the painter residences, many of which offer their atmo- spheric settings for all types of events, from Gastronomy and Wine meetings to refined courses in traditional The Wine and Flavours Route “Cities, cooking. Castles and Cherries” which winds through the hills between Bologna and Modena, gui- Palazzo Albergati is an elegant 17th century des travellers through “one of the most suc- villa, commissioned by Girolamo Albergati, culent areas of ”. Spending time in this Bolognese ambassador in Rome and doyen of area means immerging yourself in the most the Bolognese Senate. The simplicity and authentic part of Emilia, where nature is still compactness of the façade is misleading, the boss, but above all, it means having the hiding the splendour of the interiors, which unique experience of tasting and discovering make it one of the best examples of Baroque the secrets of one of the most noted and architecture in Italy. The architect Gian appreciated cookery styles in the world. The Giacomo Monti, already active at the courts vast selection of typical products which you of Modena and Mantua, created the arch at can try along this route includes cherries, the beginning of the portico of San Luca in plums, potatoes, mushrooms, truffles, che- Bologna. Particularly beautiful is the central stnuts and honey, as well as the undisputed hall, with its 30-metre-high ceiling. The galle- excellence of the regional cooking, such as ry of the hall was used in the 18th century by tortellini (always in broth!), Parmigiano Reg- Francesco Albergati as a theatre for perfor- giano (Parmesan), Mortadella di Bologna and mances of his own works, as well as works by the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, Voltaire and Goldoni. The villa was visited by accompanied by DOC dei Colli Bolognesi many important figures of European politics wines and Lambrusco of Modena. The and culture, among whom Frederick IV of Bolognese territories which are part of the Denmark, James III of England and Scotland, route are Zola Predosa, Crespellano, Bazza- the Queen of Poland, Giacomo Casanova, as no, Monteveglio, Monte San Pietro, Savigno well as both Goldoni himself and Alfieri. A and Castello di Serravalle, as well as Casalec- curious note: the staircases are notably bizar- chio di Reno, and . re, being helicoidal, spiral, double-spiral, and Info: Via N. Tavoni 20/c with asymmetrical steps. The gar- 41058 Vignola (MO) den-park around the villa reflects Tel. 059.776711 - Fax 059.7702930 the ditches and canals of the sur- [email protected] rounding plains and reveals the www.cittacastelliciliegi.it double function of the building - at one and the same time a holiday home and the administrative centre for its

18 lands. Still in its original condition, the villa is In the garden, remains of the numerous foun- used for conferences, exhibitions, and musical tains and fish-ponds can still be seen, fed and theatrical events. Open to the public on with water from the River Lavino, which also such occasions, the interior can only be visi- supplies water for the small lake in the park ted by appointment. of the nearby Villa Magnani, designed by the famous Piedmont landscapist Ernesto di Also worth seeing is Palazzo Pepoli, com- Sambuy, also responsible for the Giardini missioned in the 16th century by Alessandro Margherita in Bologna and the park of Villa Bentivoglio, son of Giovanni II, Lord of Bo- Donini in . logna. After the fall of the Bentivoglio fami- Villa Zanchini Garagnani, built from 1679 ly, the building passed into the hands of the onwards, is notable for its highly original Marescotti and then the Pepoli family, who covered driveway, which can also accommo- were responsible for the 18th-century altera- date coaches, which proceeds through a set- tions in neo-Classical style, by the architect ting with spatial-multiplication effects to Angelo Venturoli. Inside there is a rich col- the elegant double-fronted arrival loggia. lection of painted wooden ceilings. Next to the main residence, the stables, on two flo- ors (horse-stable and hayloft), are today u- Palazzo Albergati sed as a multi-purpose space. Photo by Regione Emilia

Gastronomy and Wine while the taste is full and balanced, thanks Mortadella di Bologna is a salami with the specifically to the “lardelli” which add a designation Protected Geographical Indica- touch of sweetness. Mortadella di Bologna tion (IGP). Loved the world over, mentioned is produced using techniques that are uni- in films, literature and in numerous writings que in the world, starting with carefully of all periods, mortadella is the most repre- selected pork from IGP-designated farms, sentative gastronomic product of Bologna, which is minced three different ways, each so much so that in some parts of Italy, mor- one using a specific machine, the last of tadella and Bologna have become synonyms. which has a name that says it all: “stermi- It has ancient origins: there are two stones nio”! The “lardelli” are then added to the from the Roman period, kept in the Bologna resulting mixture, which is put into skins in Archaeological Museum: one shows pig-rea- the quantities required (from 500g to ring, introduced to the Bolognese area by the 100kg). Cooking is the following phase and Celts, while the other shows a butcher using also the most delicate, in which the morta- a mortar (from which the sausage takes its della takes on its characteristic aroma. The name) to crush together the meat and spices process requires dry-air heaters, with coo- used to prepare the sausage. The earliest king times from a few hours to whole days written documents referring to mortadella according to the size. The higher the quali- date back to the Middle Ages and attribute ty of the meat (and in particular of the fat), the invention to Bolognese monks. Typically the higher the temperature that the morta- it has a cylindrical shape and , when sliced, a della can stand, with the advantage of it pink colour with scattered white cubes of becoming more digestible. Over time the lard (the so-called “lardelli”), mostly taken area of production has spread as far as from throat fat, the most highly considered. Lombardy, but mortadella at its birthplace The smell is unmistakable, lightly spiced, has a whole different flavour.

19 Contemporary art is housed in Ca’ La Ghiron- greenery of the hills behind Ponte Ronca. da, a museum and exhibition complex in the

Museums Stahler). The workshop area, by contrast, is re- The Museum of Ca’ La Ghironda is set in ten served for educational activities and exhibi- hectares of park with an enormous variety of tions of works by young artists. Overnight stays plants. Recently expanded, the centre hosts are also possible. There are guided visits, confe- works of contemporary art, and uses the exi- rences, conventions, courses, educational acti- sting building, without in any way altering its vities and workshops for schools. appearance. It contains works by over one hun- dred artists such as Capogrossi, De Chirico, CA’ LA GHIRONDA Fontana, Depero, Morandi, Picasso and Chagall. Via Leonardo da Vinci, 19 It is also an ideal place for conventions, confe- 40069 Zola Predosa - Ponte Ronca (BO) rences and concerts. The environment and Tel. 051.757419 - Fax 051.6160119 works of art come together in the park sur- [email protected] - www.ghironda.it rounding the villa, with an original mixture of Opening times: in winter Saturday and Sunday more than 200 sculptures by foreign and Italian 10-12 am and 3-6 pm; in summer 10-12 am and 4- artists (Manzù, Cascella, Mastronunzio, Gher- 7 pm; other days by appointment. mandi, Yasuda, Mastroianni, Benetton, Monari, Tickets: full price  5, reductions  3.

As well as wines and the classic tortellini, other specialities of the territory are Sughi d’uva (grape must desserts), Saba (traditional cooked must), the Torta zolese (cake of Zola), the Raviole di San Nicolò (sweet, filled pa- stries), the Torta di riso (rice cake), and salami, in particular mortadella. Zola is the place to find the main producers of the most famous cured meat of Emilia: mortadella. Many com- panies are open for guided visits. Events Zola Fair: July. Sport Festival: second week end of September

Madonna dei Prati May Fair: first Sunday of May

Ponte Ronca Ronca Fair: second Saturday and Sunday of June

MARKET DAY: Monday

Cà la Ghironda, works of “Sculptures Park” Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Guido Avoni 20 Crespellano

View over the hills - Photo by di Crespellano

Crespellano, ancient name Fundus Crispinia- division of the land, we meet the beautiful num, was created on the land which a Roman complexes of Villa Stella (with a notable gar- general, named Crispino, received as a prize at den) and Villa Aldrovandi, belonging to the the end of his military career. The Romans are family of the famous botanist. also to thank for the two main roads of the territory: the Via Emilia and Via Claudia (now In Calcara, in Via G. Garibaldi, in the direction called the Bazzanese). of Bazzano, there is Villa Bianconi, also called the “Casino dell’olmo”, after the nearby In the Middle Ages, control of Crespellano Oratory of the Madonna dell’Olmo. Built passed from the Abbey of Nonantola to from 1780 onwards, Villa Bianconi is a highly Matilde of Canossa, and it was then be invol- interesting neo-16th century building: inspired ved several times in the wars between by the Rotonda del Palladio, it is one of the Bologna and Modena. But it was in a more most significant examples of Palladian archi- modern period, once peace was established, tecture in Italy. This is thanks to Carlo Bian- that the territory became rich in authentic coni, the landlord’s brother, a multi-talented treasures of architecture and landscape. artist, member of the Accademia Clementina of Bologna and Permanent Secretary of the From the 17th century onwards, country resi- Milanese Academy of Brera. Under the stair- dences for the major noble Bolognese fami- case leading to the ample veranda, there was lies began to appear. Still today these villas the garage for carriages. punctuate and give order to the countryside around the town, offering the chance, per- Still in Calcara, Villa Turrini Rossi is an ele- haps by bicycle, to follow an itinerary around gant 17th-century building, with a long, cy- the noble houses, starting from Zola Predosa. press-lined avenue and a large surrounding park. Inside there is a copy of the portrait The “Percorso delle 10 Ville” passes through which Annibale Carracci made of its first an extraordinary selection of architectural owner, a rich banker from Bologna, the origi- styles, from the 16th to the 19th century, most nal of which is in the British Museum in of which can only be viewed from outside. London. The villa is also famous for having Occasions not to be missed to discover the hosted the poet Ugo Foscolo in April 1799, charm of the villas are the events of “Corti, escaping from the Austrian troops. Today it is Chiese e Cortili” (Courts, Churches and called Villa Nicolaj and hosts events. Courtyards), often hosted by the villas. Another interesting building in Calcara is Palazzo Grassi, now called Garagnani, is a Villa Meriggiani, built from 1780 onwards to 16th-century building of austere beauty, with a a design by the architect Angelo Venturoli. In tower dominating the town: in the famous neo-Classical style, there is a large decorated drawing of “Crespolano” by Vanvitelli in 1569, loggia and a magnificent staircase with large conserved in the Vatican Museum, it is promi- statues. Works in tempera by Basoli are con- nently placed opposite the parish church. served in the drawing room overlooking the Today it houses a library and cultural centre. garden. Going into the heart of the Roman-style sub- 21 Along the provincial road we find Villa Banzi, In the village of Sant’Almaso, you can discover later called Beccatelli Grimaldi, from the 16th one jewel of the Bolognese countryside: the century. In the middle of a beautiful park, it is Confortino with its dovecote tower. The Con- notable for the surprising staircase which fortino is an ancient monks’ resting place da- leads to the loggia on the upper floor, created ting back to the end of the 13th century, while around the mid-18th century, perhaps by a the colombaia (dovecote) is a tower with two member of the large Bibiena family. Despite orders of external loggias, built to keep doves the limited space, the architect managed to and collect the guano. It is perhaps the most create an extraordinarily monumental effect, beautiful in the whole province and is eviden- which would seem to confirm the authorship. ce of the great importance of hemp cultiva- Today it hosts events. tion, for which the guano was used as a ferti- lizer. This antique culture is also represented by the six beautiful mills (maceri) along the road (Via dei maceri) to Castellaccio, a small village built around a parti- cular oratory. From here you can continue to the large stables of the Scuderie degli Orsi Mangelli, in Madonna dei Prati.

The wine and food specialities of Crespellano go from the DOC dei Colli Bolognesi wines to tortellini Villa Stagni and lasagne, sughi d’uva (grape Photo by Comune di Crespellano must desserts, to which a festival is dedicated) and rice cake. The town’s pork products are Along the road which rises from the Bazzane- also famous, often combined with the classic se highway to Oliveto, we reach Villa Puglie, a crescentine fritte (crumbly fried savoury 19th-century landowner’s villa with long, unique pastries) and tigelle (small savoury scones). surrounding walls, today the site of receptions and meetings. Further along the road, on the summit stands the unmistakable profile of Villa Stagni, in a splendid panoramic position revealing its original defensive function, built in 1474 by Eliseo Cattanei. This villa-fort is one of the oldest houses of Crespellano and still today, despite changes, it remains one of the most atmospheric places in the territory.

About 1 kilometre from the town, there is the Oratory and Convent of San Francesco. The church, mentioned in writings from 1232 con- served in the Church of San Francesco in Bolo- gna, is considered to be one of the most an- cient dedicated to the saint from Assisi, much- honoured all over this territory. On the 2nd August every year, there is the celebration of the “Perdono di Assisi”, when it is possible to Colombaia of the Confortino visit the Oratory. Photo by Comune di Crespellano

The small, simple, austere church of San Savi- Events no is in fact the earliest parish church in Cre- Mercato delle cose buone spellano, dating back, according to some sour- (Market of Fine Produce): ces, to the 10th century. The area in front of the on occasion of the Festa dei Sughi church has a 300-year-old olive tree and mo- (Grape must desserts Festival) numental cypresses. The interior can be visited Crespellano Fair: end of September in summer, on the Thursday and Sunday of the third week of July, when there is the traditional MARKET DAY: Wednesday in Crespellano procession for the festival of the patron saint, a and Thursday in Calcara practice that has continued since 1636. 22 Bazzano

Recognised as a “City of art”, Bazzano lies at In spring, the countryside all around Bazzano the foot of the hills between Modena and explodes into spectacular cherry blossom, Bologna, on the River Samoggia. The heart of definitely worth a digression. From the path the town is the 19th-century Piazza Garibaldi, alongside the Samoggia, for example, you can on one side of which there is the Oratory of go for a walk or bike-ride in the country, with Santa Maria del Suffragio, built by the homo- splendid views, in particular at night, of the nymous brotherhood in 1673, with a sundial on hill of the Rocca. its façade and inside, a single nave with two paintings by Gandolfi. Also of note are the Nearby there is Ca’ del Vento, ex-property of building known as “La Repubblica”, decorated the Casini family: among its members the with strange horses’ heads, and the Palazzo famous Dante scholar, historian and politician Comunale (Town Hall), which houses the com- Tommaso and the ex-President of the munal art collection. The square is completed Chamber, Pierferdinando. Beyond that, tur- by “La Giuditta”, a beautiful fountain with a ning left at the pilaster, you reach the 17th cen- statue of a bather, the inspiration for the cake tury Villa Tanari, restored at the end of the of the same name, a speciality of the town. 18th century by Venturoli: of particular note are the drawing room and the Oratory of The Rocca dominates the town from a hilltop Santa Giustina with a canvas by Gandolfi sho- above the historical centre. Of medieval ori- wing the Nativity of Mary. gins, it was built by Matilde of Canossa, while its present structure dates back to 1473, when Among the other villas in the territory, of great it became the property of the Bentivoglio interest are Villa del Gandolfo, 17th century, family, at the time Lords of Bologna. Here in with the Oratory of the Madon- 1799, the poet Ugo Foscolo, whom we have na della Neve from the 19th cen- already encountered as a fugitive in Villa tury; Villa Pedrini, early 19th Nicolaj in Crespellano, was held prisoner. century, built onto the wall Today the Rocca houses the “A. Crespellani” of the Rocca; Villa Gessa, for Archaeological Museum, an information point years the holiday residence for The Wine and Flavours Route “Cities, of the great Bolognese play- Castles and Cherries” and the Musical Centre wright Alfredo Testoni and of the Union of the Samoggia Valley, who Villa Giulia, which appa- hold a workshop to study Baroque music, rently hosted Guido Reni attended by musicians from all over Europe. and his pupil Simone Next to the Rocca, there is the Church of San Giuditta Cantarini in 1637. Francesco, restored in the 18th century. Photo by Comune di Bazzano

Museums workshops for schools, family activities, a The “A. Crespellani” Archaeological Museum conference hall, library, bookshop and a Housed in the ancient Rocca, the Museum multimedia room. was created at the end of the 19th century thanks to the work and passion of the archa- CIVIL MUSEUM ARSENIO CRESPELLANI eologist Arsenio Crespellani, the organiser Rocca Bentivoglio of excavations in the territory of Bazzano Via Contessa Matilde, 10 - 40053 Bazzano (BO) and in the surrounding hills. It has a section Tel. 051.836442 - Fax 051.836440 with material from the Iron and Bronze Ages [email protected] from the necropoli of Bazzano, a Roman and Opening times: High Medieval section with two large col- Thursday and Saturday 3.30-7 pm; lections of ceramics and a contemporary Sunday 9-12.00 am 3.30-7 pm. section with Risorgimento arms and uni- Tickets: full price  1.50, free to under-14s forms. Guided visits, conferences, conven- and over-60s. tions, courses, educational activities and

23 Gastronomy and Wine The Anelloni di Bazzano are a variety of cherry common in the foothills of the Sa- moggia Valley. Here the cherry became very important from the end of the 19th century, gradually substituting the mulber- ry as the staple fruit and then becoming a specialized cultivation. After a break due to the war, cherry production grew con- stantly until it became the main element of the local economy. The “anelloni di Bazzano” can be found in the territories of Bazzano, Castello di Serravalle, Crespella- no, Monte San Pietro, Monteveglio, Savi- gno and Zola Predosa.

The gastronomical specialities of the territo- ry of Bazzano are the classic tortellini, thistle soup and the above-mentioned “Torta della Giuditta”. Then there are the “Tagliatelle della Duchessa”, pasta with chicken livers inspired by Maria Luigia, the Duchess of Parma. Visiting the area, the Duchess stopped in an inn where she tried the appetising dish, liking it so much she wanted to give it her name.

Clock Tower One of Bazzano’s native sons was the legen- Photo by Comune di Bazzano dary maker of racing cars and racing driver Amedeo Gordini, still famous thanks above On the road to Castelfranco, you can see the all to the French who nicknamed him le sor- Santuario della Sabbionara, dedicated to cier, the magician of motors. He was a perso- the Beata Vergine delle nal friend and racing rival of Enzo Grazie, built in 1630 as Ferrari, who remembers him as thanks for having escaped the protagonist of an important the plague. Inside, there “piece in the history of the are illusionist frescoes. French automobile improved by The road continues straight the talents of one of the many along the direction of the Italians to have worked in France”. Muzza, a small river of In 1999, the Province of Bologna great historical importan- and the Bazzano Town Council ce. The bank on which the promoted a philatelic twinning of road runs is in fact the Italy and France to celebrate the remains of the vallo della centenary of his birth. Muzza, a defensive struc- The weekly market of Bazzano is ture built in the 14th centu- one of the biggest in the provin- ry on the border between ce with roots going back to 1576. the territories of Bologna Rocca Since 2007 Bazzano has become and Modena. Today the Photo by Comune di Bazzano “Slow Cities”. area conserves a particular environmental integrity, worth visiting on foot or by bicycle, using the track alongside Events the water. Health Fair: June Bazzano Autumn Festival: Along the road to Montebudello, it is worth mid-September stopping at the Cemetery, with a central neo- Mercato delle cose buone Classical structure and elegant tombs of the (Market of Fine Produce): most important families of the Bazzano area. on occasion of the Autumn Festival From here, you can continue along a stupen- dous hill road, with enchanting views of the MARKET DAY: Saturday Rocca and the Abbey of Monteveglio. 24 Monteveglio

View of the borough of Monteveglio Photo by Comune di Monteveglio - Gabriele Baldazzi

The enchanting fortified village of Monteve- A 17th-century stone in the wall to the left of glio, once the most important and unconque- the altar speaks of a miraculous happening: rable fortress of the reign of Queen Matilde, on the night between the 24th and 25th March was built together with the ancient Abbey of 1527, the date of the annunciation of Mary, Santa Maria Assunta on the brow of a hill Monteveglio was besieged by the Lanziche- overlooking the valley. necchi, but was saved by a sudden snowstorm which dispersed the fierce attackers. The origins of the Castle date back to the year 1000: of the original fortifications, there Culture and Famous Names remain the arched gateway through which This used to be the seat of the religious even today you must pass to enter the village community founded by Don Giuseppe (you can see the fulcrums of the drawbridge) Dossetti, “a religious and political figure of and a massive tower, both crowned with swal- great importance and intensity”. In 1956, low-tail battlements, from which there is a Dossetti undertook a historical confronta- splendid view of the surrounding hills. The tion with the communist Giuseppe Tower is open every Sunday and on public for the seat of Mayor of Bologna. A guiding holidays, from April to October, 3-7pm. member of the Second Vatican Council, he died in 1996 and is buried in the small Proceeding along the cobbled streets past the cemetery of Casaglia in the Park of Monte ancient stone houses, you reach the Abbey. Sole, where his community is now based. Built in 1092 in Romanesque style, it has a 15th- century bell tower. Inside there are the 10th- century apse and crypt. Connected to the The territory is also a precious natural and church are two cloisters: one 15th-century with environmental zone: to take care of it, the double-loggia, the other older, of which only Regional Park of the Abbey of Monteveglio one wing remains, in a panoramic position has been created. over the plains. 25 Culture and Famous Names med Matilde guilty of lese-majesty. Matilde Matilde di Canossa, at only nine years of barricaded herself in Canossa, while Enrico IV age, inherited a huge feudal empire which took over most of her lands. Only four stretched from to Mantua, with a castles remained loyal, among which Mon- network of castles and forts at its centre in teveglio. And it was specifically Monte- the hills of Emilia. The Bolognese territory, veglio that sent the Emperor’s plans up in and particularly the Samoggia Valley, was on smoke: for four months, it resisted victoriou- the border between the lands of the Empire sly against the siege of the imperial army, and the Papacy, and the web of fortifications which had descended to expunge the humi- was particularly articulated. In the 11th centu- liation of 1077. Enrico IV was forced to order ry, when the battle exploded for the investi- the retreat. Saved from the threat, Matilde ture between Church and Empire, the prota- dedicated herself to reinforcing and expan- gonists were Pope Gregory VII and Emperor ding her feud. She supported the building of Enrico IV, Matilde’s cousin. The Pope was churches and cathedrals, created hospices deposed by the Emperor and the Emperor for the poor and was instrumental in the excommunicated by the Pope. There was war creation of the University of Bologna. In 1111, in the air. Gregory VII was travelling to the new Emperor, Enrico V, the son of her Germany for a definitive settlement, but the great enemy, nominated her vice-Queen of descent into Italy by Enrico IV forced him to Italy. A cultured woman (she could write and take refuge in the Castle of Canossa under speak three languages), a strong character the protection of Matilde, his ally. After a and an important political figure in the inter- long negotiation, on 26th January 1077, Enrico, national affairs of her time, Matilde died on dressed as a pilgrim, obtained a pardon from the 24th July 1115 and was buried in 1632 in St. the Pope. But shortly afterwards, the fight for Peter’s in Rome, in the monumental sepul- power began again. In 1081, Enrico proclai- chre by Bernini.

Abbey of Monteveglio Photo by Comune di Monteveglio - Gabriele Baldazzi

Nature, but also small villages where time attributed to Elisabetta Sirani is conserved, stands still. Among these, there is Oliveto, on and the Bronzina, a late-Middle-Age building a hill to the right of the Samoggia, in ancient which was the hotel of the Grandi di Spagna in times covered with olive trees. Donated in 776 the 16th century, then a leper hospital and final- by the Lombard Dukes of Persiceta to the ly a bronze foundry. Apparently the family of Abbey of Nonantola, Oliveto became a free industrialists, the Olivetti, have their origins in Council and survived as such for about a cen- Oliveto. tury, then passing of its own will under the control of the Bologna City Council. Among Should you want beautiful views over the its notable monuments, there are the Casa Padana Plains and the Tuscany-Emilia Apen- Grande dell’Ebreo from 1410, seat of the local nines, then come to Montebudello, on a hill Jewish community and of the first bank in the only 2.5 kilometres from the county town. The whole area, the bell tower of the Church of village is actually divided into two habitations San Paolo, in which a 17th-century altar piece nearly a kilometre apart: the first is built around 26 Nature The Regional Park of the Abbey of Monteveglio covers a significant area of the hilly territory below the habitation of Monteveglio. This protected area, borde- red to the east and west by the River Ghiaia di Serravalle and River Marzatore, has alternating farming land, which conser- a private villa), the tower and the 14th-centu- ves the traditional order of the Bolognese ry Oratory of Sant'Ubaldo with ogive win- hills, large areas of gypsum formations, of dows. The Parish Church of Sant'Andrea has particular geological interest, and the a 17th-century appearance, but already exi- steep wooded slopes of small protected sted in the 11th century. valleys of notable naturalistic value. The Among the wine and gastronomic speciali- historical Abbey is situated on the highest ties, there are the Pignoletto and Chasselais point of the pretty medieval village, set wines, the Anellone variety of cherries, around one of the main hills of the Park, an Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan) and the example of the ancient fortified and reli- fresh cheeses produced by the local creame- gious centres so typical of the Samoggia ries, many of which sell directly to the Valley, as well as the nearby Panaro Valley. public, and of course the crescentine (crum- The Park can easily be reached both from bly fried savoury pastries). Bologna and Modena along the “Bazzane- se” highway to Muffa, then turning south Monteveglio is a member of the National for Monteveglio. Association of “Wine Cities”. Info: Tel. 051.6701044 every morning 9-12am - Fax 051.6702301 Events [email protected] Abbazia in festa, cultural and historical www.parchinaturali.bologna.it recreation of the medieval period; the www.regione.emilia-romagna.it/par- period of Queen Matilde is recreated chi/abbazia around the Abbey with food and drink, costumes, music and entertainment shows, Centro Parco San Teodoro while in the main square, there is a market Via Abbazia 28 - Monteveglio (BO) of local produce: second weekend of June. Site of the Park’s offices and the Educatio- Autumn Festival, the traditional roast che- nal Workshop, open to the public Tuesday, stnuts and the excellent wines from our Thursday and Friday 9-12 am. Bolognese hills are at the centre of this event. There are also recreations of the The Visitors’ Centre of the Castle is in the ancient crafts of the valley’s folk culture. entrance tower of upper Monteveglio. Traditional popular music accompanies Open every Sunday and on public holidays and gives rhythm to the smiths, carpenters from April to November 3-7 pm. and all the other craft workers: second weekend of October. Festival of the Saracca, a popular festival the Church of Sant’Andrea in Corneliano, a in which the inhabitants of Oliveto go from name which recalls the ancient Roman coloni- house to house with a sardine hanging from zation. a branch. They sing, dance, drink and finally The second group of houses is known as bury the sardine at the foot of a wooden Castellazzo: of the ancient castle, there cross on a hillside. It derives from the festi- remain only the foundations (in the ground of val of the “sardana”, inherited from the Spanish during their passage here in 1527: Sport and Active Tourism second Sunday of March. Golf Club Campanino Delivery of the Votive Candle, at the Practice course with 18 shot positions, ideal Church of the Abbey of Monteveglio, there for training and for perfecting before to face is the celebration of the offering of a votive demanding courses. candle to the Madonna, delivered by the Technical data: 4 holes, 3 par 3, 1 par 4, Mayor to the Abbot: March. 130 mts a.s.l. Mercato delle cose buone Info: via Barlete, 52 - 40050 Monteveglio (BO) (Market of Fine Produce): Tel. 051.6705387 - Fax 051.6710969 on occasion of the Autumn Festival [email protected] www.campaninogolfclub.it MARKET DAY: Thursday

27 Castello di Serravalle

The fortified village of Castello di Serravalle has ancient origins and even today preserves all its medieval charm. Built to defend the Byzantine Empire of Ravenna against the House of the Mountain Ranger Barbaric invasions and razed to the ground Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Guido Avoni by the Lombards in the 8th century due to its strategic military position, the village was contested between the Ghibellines of Mo- rebuilt in the Middle Ages on the Roman dena and the Guelphs of Bologna. foundations. In the 9th century, it offered asy- The dispute ended at the Battle of Zappoli- lum to Charlemagne as he was going to no, in which the Bolognese were defeated, Rome. Until 1109, it was part of the feud of with over three thousand casualties and as Queen Matilde of Canossa, and was bitterly many prisoners.

History and Culture Of the ancient fortification that gave the vil- The Battle of Zappolino lage its name, you can still admire the and the “Stolen bucket”. medieval gates and the tower, dating back to The battle was fought on the 15th November 1325, at a site now commemorated by an Nature inscribed stone in the village of Bersagliera. The Hortus conclusus of Serravalle is a It was an immense defeat for Bologna. The small vegetable garden in the medieval Bolognese were numerically superior, but style: following a short, well-labelled cour- not as regards cavalry, which proved decisi- se, you can see the flower beds (The ve. On the side of Modena, there were also Garden of Delights), the aromatic plants the Counts of Panico (page 63) and Da (The Medicinal Herb-Garden) and the vege- Cuzzano. The Bolognese troops, mostly tables (The Cabbage Patch), which were cul- peasants, were soon overcome and the fact tivated in the 14th century, when the village that they were not all killed was only due and all the surrounding territory were to the onset of night. On the 16th, the troops governed by the Capitano della Montagna of Modena took Crespellano and on the (Mountain Ranger). The cultivation techni- 17th, they were at the gates of Bologna, but ques are those of medieval times (rain irri- they did not besiege it. The following year, gation, organic fertilizer and natural insecti- through diplomatic channels, the Bolo- cides such as chrysanthemums and nettles), gnese managed to regain their castles and as traditional as the tools and methods ransom all the prisoners. The battle is narra- employed in creating the beds and climbing ted in the 19th century heroic-comic poem frames for antique roses: chestnut-wood La Secchia rapita (The Stolen Bucket) by the poles tied with willow twigs. The Medieval Modena poet Alessandro Tassoni, who Garden can be visited when the Ecological took the title from an episode which has Museum of the Hills and Wine is open and become a legend of the rivalry between the by booking for groups of at least six. At two cities. weekends and for schools, there are educa- The soldiers of Modena, on reaching the tional workshops on aromatic, symbolic, city walls of Bologna, near Porta San Felice, magical and forgotten plants, natural culti- stole a bucket from a well on the Via Emilia vation techniques and the construction of as a joke, taking it back to Modena as a sort raised beds. Visits to the Medieval Garden of trophy. It might well have happened last 45 minutes and can be combined with seven hundred years ago, but the bucket is a visit to the Ecological Museum. still there in Modena, kept in the Ghirlan- Info and booking: Tel. 333.4124915 dina, and even today in Bologna, its theft is [email protected] not one of the favourite subjects of conver- Public Library Tel. 051.6710728 sation… www.ortomedievale.it

28 1523, while the Lord’s palace, built entirely in The imposing beauty and secrets of Castello brick below the tower, is in 18th-century style. di Serravalle inspired the composer from The castle, adapted to be a noble family Lucca Gateano Luporini (1865-1948), who in residence around 1500, was the property of 1920 wrote the music for the opera Amore e the noble family of Boccadiferro until the morte, set in the castle, with libretto by end of the 19th century. In the evocative Giuseppe Lipparini. entrance hall, a sandstone bas-relief depicts the cavalier Iacopino da S. Lorenzo in Collina, Only 2 kilometres away, the Church of famous Capitano della Montagna (Mountain Sant’Apollinare is worth taking time to visit, Ranger). with frescoes by Guardassoni and Samoggia, standing in the centre of an enchanting plain, At the castle there is no lack of mystery: the surrounded by vineyards, a constant element souls of the wives of the cruel Boccadiferro which characterises the territory of the valley. still move around the fortress. In the nights of In fact, it is not by chance that Castello di May, their ghosts come out to seek revenge, Serravalle is a member of the National As- spreading a mysterious perfume around the sociation of “Wine Cities”. village, while in the castle tower, the moans of Another favourite spot for walking or moun- Boccadiferro, himself killed by his thirteenth tain-biking are the “calanchi” (gullies), in the and most cunning wife, still echo around. area amidst Castelletto, Bersagliera, Maiola and Tiola. In the heart of the village, the 13th-century Village Hall was the seat of the Magistracy of Nature the Capitano della Montagna occidentale Salt water and the River Marzatore. Along (Western Mountain Rangers). Today it consists the road which follows the River Marzatore, of a 16th-century bell tower and a beautiful there is a very special spring: its water is loggia through which you enter the Ecological actually salty. It is fossil sea water, trapped in Museum of the Hills and Wine. the Pliocene clay when the sea withdrew, creating the plains. The spring has been Museums famous since ancient times for its medicinal Inside the medieval village, the House of the properties and at the beginning of the 20th Mountain Rangers houses the Eco Museum century, became a thermal tourist attrac- of the Hills and Wine, an occasion not to tion. Today a visit to the fountain could be a be missed to understand the territory and chance to discover the countryside of the the activities carried out by its inhabitants in narrow valley of the River Marzatore, whose the past and present. The exhibition is divi- most important naturalistic value lies in the ded into nine themes. Each environment is presence of protected flowers, such as Scilla connected to a journey through the territo- and Dog’s Tooth Violet. ry, which is the real subject of the museum. The educational tour within the central structure ends in the tasting corner, where Not to be missed the itinerary of the tower- you can try wines from the territory. For houses, rural nuclei in stone characterized by schools, the museum can be booked for the distinctive architectural element of their small educational workshops. Visits to the towers, whose role over time has changed castle are possible for organized groups, from defensive to productive (dovecotes). with the prior agreement of the Council, or during the village festival. ECO MUSEUM OF THE HILLS AND WINE Casa del Capitano Via della Rocca 40050 Castello di Serravalle (BO) Tel. 051.6710708 (Ufficio Cultura) [email protected] Open on Sunday and on public holidays 3- 6pm. At other times with prior booking. Free entrance.

View of Castello di Serravalle among the clouds Photo by Promappenino - Riccardo Solmi

29 Tower of the castle - Photo by Provincia di Bologna Gastronomy and Wine Il gnocco fritto (not “lo gnocco” as the their reputation for bloody deeds. Bandits would suggest) is a typical from Bologna, the Da Cuzzano took refuge in food of Emilia, and in the Samoggia Valley, their castle, oppressing the local population. there is a high number of specialized Muzzarello da Cuzzano, a rebel against the restaurants. In the rest of the Province of citizens’ government, became so powerful as Bologna, it is called the crescentina (a to be nominated Lord of Monteveglio and name which, just to complicate things, is Sassuolo, obtaining as wife one of the dau- used in the mountains of Modena to indi- ghters of Taddeo Pepoli, Lord of Bologna. cate the tigella). Wheat flour, salt, lard and The ancient castle was destroyed in a fire in yeast are the ingredients: the resulting 1365, with the exception of the tower which is pastry is fried according to tradition in all that remains of the original structure today. abundant boiling lard. It immediately Rebuilding took place in the 16th century, expands and is ready at once to be eaten taking on the appearance of a noble country with the famous, but never celebrated residence. enough, Bolognese salami. The Festival of the Fried Gnocco has over the years beco- Events me a great attraction. It is in the Guinness Bonfire of Sant’Antonio: 16th January Book of Records for the largest gnocco Maggiociondolo Fair, walks, parties, fritto ever prepared. sport competitions, traditions, shows: all the month of May. Mercato delle cose buone Of particular note for their history and beauty (Market of Fine Produce): are the Case Rosse (15th and 16th century) and on occasion of the Maggiocondolo. the Case Bertù (16th century) in Zappolino, Ca- Calici di Stelle (Goblets of stars), sa Moretti (16th century) in Ponzano and the vil- an evening of music and tasting: lages of Gavazzano, Tintoria and Cuzzano, 10th August. along the Samoggia Valley. Festival of the Fried Gnocco: first and second Sunday of October The Palazzo di Cuzzano stands on the site where there was once the castle of the MARKET DAY: Monday powerful Da Cuzzano family, who deserved 30 Savigno

Situated on the banks of the Samoggia, Savigno is an obligatory stop for lovers of good cooking.

Savigno is synonymous with truffles and more generally with excellent gastronomy based on the quality of the local products. “Cities of Truffles”, Savigno is considered “Regional Capital of the Precious White Truffle of the Bolognese Hills”. Just think that out of 2,500 inhabitants a good 130 are recognised truffle hunters! Savigno is also a member of the National Association “Cities of Flavours”, created by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage, which links typical products to the history and culture of the territory.

The local truffle hunters, accompanied by Precious White Truffle of the Bolognese hills their faithful dogs, spend whole days seeking Private archive out the precious product which then graces the tables of restaurants and delicatessens. There are many other points of interest, star- There are numerous restaurants which serve it ting from the town centre. in its infinite culinary versions based on jea- In the town square, there is the small but par- lously-guarded ancient recipes. In the histori- ticular Church of San Matteo, built on the cal town square, on occasion of the Tartu- site where since the 18th century, there has festa festival, you can find numerous stands been the Oratory of San Matteo di Mercato where it is possible to taste and buy the pre- di Savigno, so called after the ancient name cious tuber. of the town. In front of the church, a sandsto- ne obelisk commemorates the revolt of the Gastronomy and Wine 15th August 1843, when hundreds of patriotic The Precious White Truffle of the Bolo- followers of Mazzini rose up for the freedom gnese Hills is a genuine product of excel- of Italy from Papal dominion. lence of the gastronomy of the Apennines. The territories of our mountains most sui- Nature table for the growth of the precious tuber For nature lovers, there is the Percorso Set- are Savigno in the Samoggia Valley and te Chiese (The Seven-Church Trail), in , , Castel di total 20 kilometres long, starting from the Casio, , Vergato and Por- town square. Crossing woods, fields and retta in the Reno Valley. Savigno, Camu- cherry orchards, the trail leads to the disco- gnano and are members of very of a rich territory with evocative lan- the national association “Cities of Truffles”. dscape, returning finally to its starting In practically all the Apennines the more point. Particularly suitable for mountain- common summer variety, the Black Truffle bike excursions, it can also be followed on or “Scorzone”, is widespread. foot or horseback. Info: Comune di Savigno Tel. 051.6708004 - Fax 051.6708662 [email protected]

31 Mulino del Dottore (Water Mill) Private archive Finally, it must not be forgotten that the whole area was once full of forts: it is worth The territory of Savigno offers travellers a visiting the tiny village of Vénola, with its harmonious hilly landscape, rich in trails sui- particular tower-houses built between the table not only for trekking and cycling, but 16th and 17th centuries. also for cultural excursions. The territory of this valley is in fact one continuous surprise, Events with its parish churches, oratories and May Palio, the town divides into 3 “contrade” ancient water mills. and 9 “frazioni”, and the streets and houses Among those still in perfect working order, are decorated with the flags and drapes of in Rodiano, there is the 17th-century Mulino their relative colours. On Sunday, all the par- del Dottore, open to the public on Sunday ticipants take part in the final competition, afternoon. the winner is named and the festivities con- tinue into the night: May. Mercato delle cose buone (Market of Fine Produce): every second Sunday of the month, from May to December. Antique Market and Exhibition: every second Sunday of the month, from March to December. Market Fair of San Matteo: September Tartufesta: in October and November National Festival of the Precious White Truffle of the Bolognese Hills: first three Sundays in November

May Palio MARKET DAY: Tuesday Photo by Comune di Savigno

32 Monte San Pietro

working organs in the extremely rich Bolo- gnese heritage. Attributed to a member of the Cipri family (16-18th century), it has been expan- ded and restored several times down the cen- turies. It can be found in the choir, above the entrance.

In the area of Oca, we leave the Via Lavino for S. Chierlo. Here, alongside Monte Bonsara (or Bonzara), there is the massive form of Villa Lambertini, a small fort with imposing ba- stions, crowned with a 16th-century tower. DOC Colli Bolognesi vineyards Private archive At the junction which leads from Lavino to Mongiorgio, a site of particular interest is the A vast territory spread around the mid-upper ex-monastic complex of the Badia, which basin of the River Lavino, Monte San Pietro is stands in the homonymous village. In the late characterized by ancient villages which, until Middle Ages, the Badia was a strategic place the early years of the last century, were auto- to spend the night for pilgrims going to Rome nomous communities. Today, they are villages along the Via Nonantolana. It is an obligatory that gravitate around Calderino. The art and stop in an itinerary of Benedictine Abbeys in historical treasures of this area are therefore the Bolognese territory. Of Romanesque ori- to be searched for, touring around the territo- gins (12th and 13th centuries), but rebuilt in the ry, following winding roads, lined by rows of 15th century, it is a church with three naves and vines and cherry trees. an evocative cloister. It is worth noting the re- use, typically medieval, of ornamental mate- After crossing the River Lavino at Ponte rial from previous ancient periods. Inside there Rivabella, we reach Amola, where there are are the remains of a 16th-century fresco in the two precious examples of Bolognese art: the apse and the Madonna tra Santi painted in the Via Crucis by Mauro Gandolfi from 1792 and an lunette above the main door, which can be organ by Pietro Agati from 1757, both conser- dated to the 16th century. The complex belongs ved in the 18th-century Parish Church of Santa to the Town Council, which intends to make it Maria Assunta. It also contains three canvasses the site of the Wine and Chestnut Museum. by Guardassoni, among which the Madonna Assunta in fioriera, blessed by Pope Pious IX. In Mongiorgio, there are the last traces of a medieval castle and the 17th-century Church of From Ponte Rivabella, it is also worth visiting the Saints Sigismondo and Pietro. the Oratory of San Lorenzo in Collina, where once a year in September, you can admire the The territory boasts a long winemaking tradi- Madonna del Castello di Capramozza, a splen- tion and these hills produce the greatest did wooden sculpture, perhaps from the 13th quantity of the “Vini dei Colli Bolognesi”. century. Nearby, in the church of Montemag- Ottone I, in 776, was already praising these giore, there is a painting in tempera of the hills as producers of “…good wine to be imbi- patron saint dated 1395, attributed to Cristo- bed only on glorious days…”. From the tracts of foro da Bologna. Abbot Calindri, it appears that it was specifi- cally Monte San Pietro that determined the Returning along the Lavino valley-bottom price of grapes at the market in the city of road, 5 kilometres from Calderino, we reach Bologna. Monte San Pietro is a member of the Monte San Giovanni. In the church, there is National Association of “Wine Cities”. one of the oldest and most important still-

33 Gastronomy and Wine ting in a wine with delicate bouquet, fruity, DOC Colli Bolognesi Wines intense, with notes of hawthorn flowers The hilly territory between the Reno and and a dry flavour, the perfect accompani- Samoggia makes the wines of the most ment to the traditional tortellini in broth varied Denomination of Controlled Ori- and mortadella. Among the other wines, gin (D.O.C.) in Italy, so much so that there there are excellent Pinot Bianco and are indications of the various sub-zones: Sauvignon wines among the whites, Bar- Colli Bolognesi, Monte San Pietro, Castelli bera and Cabernet Sauvignon among the Medioevali. In this area, you can find reds. Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot CONSORZIO VINI COLLI BOLOGNESI Bianco, Riesling Italico and Sauvi-gnon. But Via Abbazia 30/c - 40050 Monteveglio (BO) the most famous variety is undoubtedly Tel. 051.670.7752 - [email protected] Pignoletto, an autochthonous vine resul- www.collibolognesi.it

Events Science and Technique In Monte San Pietro since 1968, wine has The sky for everybody been celebrated at the beginning of The Felsina Astronomical Observatory in September with the historical festival, the Ca’ Antinori is situated in a strategic posi- Sagra del Vino dei Colli Bolognesi in Piazza tion, dominating the whole mid-Bolo- della Pace in Calderino, organized by the gnese Apennines: towards the east, you local Pro Loco (Tourist Office). During the can make out the dome of the Astro- festival, the local producers offer visitors nomical Observatory of , while to the chance to try their wines and there are the south, the ten enormous blades of the also stands offering other comestible spe- Monte Galletto Wind Power Park are visi- cialities of the area: honey, cheese, conser- ble and even the peak of Corno alle Scale. ved vegetables and salami. On the second Run by the Bolognese “Associazione Atro- Sunday of September, still in these hills in fici”, it is open to the public twice a month San Martino in Casola, there is the Mostra from April to October, following an annual assaggio dei vini dei Colli Bolognesi: several calendar. evenings of wine-tasting with a range of Info: Biblioteca di Monte San Pietro (BO) over a hundred labels made available to Tel. 051.6764437 experts and wine-lovers. [email protected] www.associazioneastrofilibolognesi.it

Great importance is also given to the cultiva- tion of chestnuts, spread in the highest areas of Around Venezia a Monte San Giovanni and the territory like the extensive chestnut Pradalbino, on the borders of the Crespellano orchards of Monte Pastore, ancient posses- area, the countryside has a strange, atmosphe- sion of Matilde di Canossa (notable for the ric element - the “calanchi”. church and the medieval tower). The excellent farming results in great quantities of the typical Nature “marroni” of the area, famous for their excel- The “calanchi” are a particular morphologi- lent quality. Monte San Pietro is a member of cal form of clay, very common in the the National Association of “Chestnut Cities”. Apennines of Emilia-Romagna, so much so that the term “calanco” is a corruption of the Bolognese dialect name. They are the result of erosion processes of the clay lan- dscape, created by the action of rain and wind, favoured by the alternating rainy and dry periods. The “calanchi” create an extre- me environment in which arcs and crests of various shapes alternate with gullies that are often very deep; the vegetation is prevalen- tly herbaceous species, flowering in spring or autumn. These areas, being open and full of climbing air-currents, are ideal for the flight and hunting patrols of numerous birds Calanchi (gullies) of prey, such as buzzards, easy to spot in the Photo by Comune di Monte San Pietro hottest parts of the day, and harriers.

34 There is no lack of opportunities to take part in the sporting reality of the area: as a specta- tor in a visit to the precious Nigelli collection of motorbikes, or actively at the prestigious Golf Club. Sport and Active Tourism Bologna Golf Club One of the historical Italian courses, desi- gned by Cotton & Harris and created in 1959, it is situated 12 kilometres from Bologna on lovely hilly landscape with beautiful vistas of the surrounding hills and the plains. Constantly updated, the course has hosted the Italian Amateur Champion- MM Motorbikes ships several times in the last few years, as Photo by Nigelli Collection well as numerous professional competi- tions. The sober, elegant Club House is the Gastronomy and Wine ideal place to try the menu of the Private Sabadoni. The pastry of sabadoni is made Restaurant, which has been included seve- from flour, eggs, sugar, a drop of extra-vir- ral times in the 10 best Italian Club gin olive oil, brandy, yeast (in the past, bi- Restaurants. The beautiful open-air swim- carbonate of soda was used), lemon zest ming pool and a well-equipped kids’ cor- and a pinch of salt. It is rolled out into she- ner complete the Club’s offer. In 2000, ets and cut into rectangles. For the filling, there were some modifications to the chestnuts are boiled and then passed course by Peter Alliss. through a sieve, then this purée is mixed Technical data: 18 holes, par 72, 5,949 mts, with “mostarda Bolognese” (a fruit conser- 116 mts a.s.l. ve). A spoonful is placed in the middle of Info: via Sabattini, 69 - Monte San Pietro (BO) the pastry rectangles and closed in by ano- Tel. 051.969100 - Fax 051.6720017 ther rectangle. Having pressed down the [email protected] edges, the sabadoni are fried in lard. Once www.golfclub.bologna.it the fat has been absorbed on kitchen towels, they are left to cool down, then brushed with “saba” (cooked must), diluted Museums - Science and Technique with a drop of the cooking water from the Land of Motors - The Nigelli Collection chestnuts used in the filling. The passion for mechanics of Bruno Mostarda Bolognese is a delicious jam of Nigelli has led to a private collection of mixed fruit, usually cherries and plums, great value: over 300 motorbikes, with used, as well as in sabadoni, for filling the classic, and in some cases unique exam- Pinza (a typical Christmas sweet in the ples, tell the story of motorcycling in Apennines and Bolognese countryside) and Bologna, whose 85 constructors represent Raviole (the traditional sweets of San Giu- a situation that is unique in the world. The seppe). Bolognese brilliance for motorbikes has also had a profound effect on the econo- my, leading to the creation of a series of Events companies specializing in mechanical pre- Herb Convention: first Sunday of June cision components, among which NIFO, Herb and Antique Market: every whose premises house the collection. Thursday in July and August Visits by appointment: Calderino Festival - Festival of San Cristoforo THE NIGELLI COLLECTION - Summer Black Truffle Festival: NIFO S.r.l Via Giuseppe Venturi, 3 last Sunday of July San Martino in Casola, 40050 Calici di Stelle (Goblets of stars): Monte San Pietro (BO) - Tel. 051.6766792 the night of San Lorenzo [email protected] - www.nifo.it Wine Festival, an extempore painting competition, first weekend of September Roast Chestnut Festival: third Sunday The wine and gastronomical specialities, apart of October from wine and chestnuts, also include cher- ries, plums, honey, mushrooms, salami and cre- MARKET DAY: Thursday scentine (crumbly fried savoury pastries). 35 The Samoggia Valley the plain

Crevalcore

Sant’Agata Bolognese

Tourist Itinerary San Giovanni The itinerary to discover the in Persiceto “Terre d’Acqua” (Water Lands) of the Samoggia plain spreads out from the “Persicetana” highway, connecting Bologna to the state highway for Verona.

The “Terre d’Acqua” (Water Lands) Calderara di Reno - Anzola dell’Emilia - Calderara di Reno - Sala Bolognese - San Giovanni in Persiceto - Sant’Agata Bolognese Anzola - dell’Emilia

Not to be missed: Lamborghini in Sant’Agata Bolognese The Romanesque Parish Church of Sala Bolognese The historical centres of San Giovanni in Persiceto and Crevalcore The “castles” of Crevalcore The World’s Smallest Puppet Museum in Crevalcore The Dosolo Basin and the Water-Pumping Plant of Bagnetto Villa Caprara and the sites of Santa Clelia Barbieri at Le Budrie The cycling routes between San Giovanni and Crevalcore The Memorial Stone of the Second Triumvirate and the Rotunda of Sacerno The Persiceto Carnival The traditional Melons and Watermelons of San Matteo della Decima

36 History and Environment State Highway SS 9 “Via Emilia” The second part of the itinerary along the towards Modena Samoggia Valley leads to the discovery of a - Railway line Bologna-Verona-Brennero: rich plain, already referred to as “highly opu- stations in Osteria Nuova, San Giovanni lent” in Roman times. These are the “Water in Persiceto, Crevalcore. Lands” of the Province of Bologna, a territory - Railway line Bologna-Milano: crossed by the Samoggia, between two stations in Lavino, Anzola dell’Emilia, Samoggia important rivers, the Reno and Panaro. - Buses ATC www.atc.bo.it The vast flow of the water courses has always been both the greatest resource and the most Tourist Information fearful threat for these lands. The natural Anzola dell’Emilia - URP (Public Relations Office) parks and wet zones of the Dosolo and Bora, Via Grimandi, 1 - 40011 Anzola dell’Emila (BO) together with the majestic water-pumping Tel. 051.6502111 - [email protected] plant of Bagnetto, tell the story of the diffi- Opening times: culties of living between earth and water, and Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, are an extraordinary open-air museum where Friday and Saturday 8 - 12:30am you can discover the flora and fauna in what Thursday 8am - 6:30pm is today a protected habitat. Historically disputed between Modena and Calderara di Reno - URP (Public Relations Office) Bologna, controlled by the powerful Abbey P.zza G. Marconi, 7- 40012 Calderara di Reno (BO) of Nonantola and an antique land of the agra- Tel. 051.6461274 rian “Partecipanza”, the western Bolognese [email protected] plain differs from other intensely cultivated Opening times: areas of the Padana (Northern) Valley, having Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, scattered ancient farmhouses, churches and Friday and Saturday 8am - 1pm oratories. Thursday 8am - 7pm Other distinctive features are the “castles” of Crevalcore and San Giovanni in Persiceto, Sala Bolognese - URP (Public Relations Office) dating back to the golden age of Bolognese P.zza G. Marconi, 1 - 40010 Sala Bolognese (BO) patronage. A land of historical singers and Tel. 051.6822511 puppeteers, the best tradition of Carnival [email protected] comes back to life every year, with the cha- Opening times: racters Bertoldo and Bertoldino as protago- Monday to Friday 8:30am - 1pm nists. Even among the signs of more recent Thursday 3pm - 6pm industrialisation, there are numerous occa- sions to make interesting discoveries. Lam- San Giovanni in Persiceto - URP (Public Relations borghini, the legendary automobile producer, Office) is based in Sant’Agata Bolognese and a visit to Corso Italia, 78 its Museum is obligatory in any ideal itinerary 40017 San Giovanni in Persiceto (BO) in the “Land of Motors”. Tel. 800.069678 - [email protected] Opening times: Buon appetito Monday, Wednesday, The territory’s cooking offers all the speciali- Friday and Saturday 8:30am-1:30pm ties of the best Bolognese tradition while also Tuesday and Thursday 8:30am - 6:30pm being influenced by the neighbouring Provin- ce of Modena. As evidence, besides the DOC Sant’Agata Bolognese - Cultural Office Wines of the Reno, Lambrusco is common, as Via 2 Agosto 1980, 118 well as specialities such as Zampone (pig’s 40019 Sant’Agata Bolognese (BO) trotter) and Cotechino (pork sausage). Among Tel. 051.6818942 - [email protected] the sweets, you must try “Africanetti” and Opening times: “Savoiardi di Persiceto”, egg traditional Monday to Friday 9am - 1pm biscuits from San Giovanni in Persiceto. There are also two agricultural products worth Crevalcore - URP (Public Relations Office) noting: the Traditional Melons and Water- Via Matteotti, 213 - 40014 Crevalcore melons of San Matteo della Decima, central Tel. 051.988443 - [email protected] to a festival in July. Opening times: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 8:30am - 1pm How to get there Tuesday 7:30am - 1pm / 5 - 7pm - A14 Motorway: exit Borgo Panigale Thursday 8:30am - 1pm / 5 - 7pm - Roads: State highway SS 568 towards Verona Saturday 9 - 12am

37 Anzola dell’Emilia

Our first stop on the Samoggia plain is Anzo- History and Culture la, where there is the Tower of Re Enzo, the Anzola before Emilia: only remaining evidence of the ancient castle the “Terramare” villages of the Lords of these lands. The “Terramare” are ancient villages of pile - dwellings from the Bronze Age (16-13th centu- History and Culture ry BC), typical of west-central Emilia. They Re Enzo and the Tower of Anzola are villages constructed following a well- “In Anzola, the 13th century torre di Re defined plan: quadrangular, they are found Enzo (Tower of King Enzo) recalls the war on dry land, but always near water, which between the Communes and Emperor served as protection for the settlements. Frederick II. The Bolognese won a signifi- The “Terramare” of Anzola stood on the cant victory over the Imperial forces at western limit of the inhabited area: the exca- Fossalta (1249), in the outskirts of Modena vations, still ongoing, suggest that Anzola and were able to take the Emperor’s son, was in fact a border post, as confirmed by Prince Enzo, prisoner. He was entrusted to the material remains of the culture that have the Lord of the castle of Anzola, count been found, revealing a close relationship Michele degli Orsi. The tower where he with the geographical areas to the south- was held is named after him and is one of east of Anzola, which in the same period saw the few remains of the original castle. the flowering of a different type of settle- Subsequently Enzo was moved to the ment, more similar to Apennine models. attractive palace in the centre of Bologna, which also how bears his name. It cannot have been a particularly hard imprison- ment since the Lord of Anzola became a good friends with the young monarch and tried to help him escape inside a pannier.” Renzo Renzi

In Anzola, there is also some of the most ancient parish churches of the Province. It is worth visiting the Abbey of Santa Maria in Strada in over a thousand years of history. While in the county town there is the Church of Saints Peter and Paul, whose medieval origins can be seen in the 13th-century font. Rebuilt from the 17th century onwards, it hou- ses works by Spisanelli and Guardassoni.

But the history of this territory goes back well Tower of Re Enzo before the medieval wars and parish chur- Photo by Provincia di Bologna ches. Anzola dell’Emilia has a surprise for us: a prehistoric border village. Events Spring Festival, horse show, vintage car and motorbike rally: May Anzola Fair: June Santa Maria Street Festival: September Anzola Festival, as part of the series “Historical War games - Playing with history”: first Sunday of October

MARKET DAY: Saturday

38 Calderara di Reno

Calderara stretches along the left bank of the Nature Reno, at the centre of a territory already In the“Golena di San Vitale”, near the ford occupied by the Romans at the time of the on the Reno, you can visit a woody area Republic. Archaeological remains from the undergoing ecological restructuring, run by Roman period, found during excavations of the local branch of the WWF. ancient farmhouses and wells in the area, are Info: Tel. 051.521114; 8:30 - 11:30 am, now collected in the public library. Monday to Friday

In 43BC, a momentous event in history hap- pened here. Sacerno is indicated as the site where, after the death of Julius Caesar, Octavian, Mark Anthony and Lepidus divided up the Roman world with the Second Triumvirate. The site is today indicated by a Baroque-period column on the banks of the River Lavino. The importance of Sacerno, however, dates back to even more ancient times. Also known in the past as Mezzomondo, up to the 16th century the area was known as San Chierno, a name deriving from the Celtic Kernunnos, the horned god associated with rivers and the centre of the world. In the Christian era, in the 8th century, the nearby proto-romantic rotunda of Sant’Elena was built to consecrate a site that had already been sacred to other cults. The remains of the ancient Church are now part of the highly ori- ginal bell-tower of the successive Benedictine parish church.

Among the beautiful villas and country hou- ses in the territory, of particular note are Villa Tanara (17th century) and Villa Donini, with a park created at the end of the 19th century by the Count of Sambuy, responsible for Villa Magnani in Zola Predosa as well. Also worth visiting is the complex of the Church of San Vitale in Longara, the summer Memorial stone of the Second Triunvirate residence of Cardinal Lambertini, later to be- Photo by Provincia di Bologna come Pope Benedict XIV. Calderara di Reno is a member of the In Tavernelle Emilia, it is impossible not to National Association of “Wine Cities”. note the large, and now precarious, mass of Villa Paleotti Spalletti, the rear of which Events faces onto the Persicetana highway. Built in The Calderara Week: in May and in June the 17th century by the Paleotti family, in 1682 Dinner of the 14th August it passed into the hands of the traders, the Lippo Festival: September Zagnoni, who obtained permission to use the Festival of ancient flavours: October lawn in front of the villa for an important fair in September. MARKET DAY: Monday

39 Sala Bolognese

The Romanesque Parish Church of Santa Maria Palazzo Zambeccari (Il Conte) is a beautiful 16th- Annunziata and San Biagio alone makes a visit to century building, with the traditional four angu- Sala Bolognese worthwhile. The basilica dates lar towers. A two-flight staircase leads inside, back to 1096 and was restored to its original where traces of fresco decorations are still visi- form in 1920. Its Romanesque-Lombard architec- ble. In Villa Minelli, it is worth noting the tower, tural style is a unique example this side of the courtyard and the small 18th-century chapel. River Panaro, a natural border which for centu- ries separated the western part of the region from the eastern with its Lombard influences.

By bicycle, it is possible to visit the numerous small villages, churches and villas spread around the countryside, or reach the banks of the Reno and Samoggia Rivers. Among ruins surrounded by elms and white willows, if you keep your eyes open, perhaps with the help of a good pair of binoculars and some plant and animal han- dbooks, you can spot many interesting exam- ples of flora and fauna.

In the village of Bagno di Piano, there are many things to visit. The 16th-century Church of San Michele Arcangelo contains two important paintings attributed to Crespi and Francia, around which the mysteries of the rosary of the School of Carracci are arranged.

Palazzo Zambeccari (Il Conte) Photo by Comune di Sala Bolognese

History and Culture The interior of the church follows the layout A short guide for a visit to the Roma- of a basilica, with three naves divided by nesque Parish Church of Sala Bolognese. columns with unadorned selenite capitals. A The parish church has a beautiful façade, large central staircase leads to the presbyte- characterized by a mullioned window with a ry, where there is the high altar. On the surfa- cubic capital, embellished by Byzantine car- ce of the altar, there is the carved head of a vings. At the sides of the entrance, there are pagan divinity with ram’s horns, perhaps a two memorial stones: the older representation of the Celtic god recalls the construction of the Kernunnos. This pagan altar, which Church in 1096 on the remains became Christia with an exorcism of a PalaeoChristian temple, and of a cross carved into the stone, the other, more modern, the documents the end of the pagan restoration carried out in 1920. period and the passage to Chri- At the back, the major apse is stianity of the ancient population the best preserved of the three and is embel- of the area. A notable element is the seal lished by a 12th-century blind gallery, the most with the eagle of the Svevi Empire on the interesting architectural element of the buil- parapet of the pulpit. The crypt below the ding. It is in fact the only such example in a presbytery, mostly restored, is undoubtedly Romanesque building in the Province of the most atmospheric part of the basilica. Bologna. On the right-hand side, there is the Near the entrance, an ancient immersion- bell-tower, built in 1926, with a chapel dedi- bath for baptisms in red marble from Verona cated to the Fallen of the two World Wars. is preserved.

40 Nature The Water-Pumping Plant of Bagnetto Science and Technique - Museums Near the confluence of the Samoggia and The Dosolo Flood-Basin Reno, there is the water-pumping plant of Built in 1931 to hold the floodwater from the Bagnetto. This beautiful building houses the Dosolo canal, the basin contains land that instruments which control the majority of was until recently cultivated, despite the the surface water in the territory, allowing obvious limitations caused by the frequent the introduction of water from the “Acque flooding. Basse” Canal manifold into the Reno. The Since 1991, the area has been given over to plant was built in 1925, with an architectural greater environmental aims. Various works style similar to a massive medieval fort and have created a wide-ranging variety of natu- was further developed in the eighties. ral environments, with alternating woods, THE WATER ECO-MUSEUM meadows and wet zones, allowing develop- For visits and Info: ment of typical swampland flora and fauna. Consorzio di Bonifica Reno-Palata, The wet zones, covering 5.5 hectares, are via Amendola 12, Bologna now under ecological restructuring. Tel. 051.254510, Fax 051.254172 www.consorziorenopalata.it

Water-Pumping of Bagnetto Not to be missed is a visit to the water-pum- Photo by Consorzio Bonifica Reno-Palata ping plant of Bagnetto, which together with the nearby area of ecological restructuring in In Osteria Nuova, we come to Villa Terracini the Dosolo Basin, is one of the major land (18th century), a typical country house of the reclamation works and hydraulic systems to plains: in its extensive park, there is a lovely have permitted cultivation and settlement in example of a “conserva”, a sort of natural lar- this area, once extremely swampy. der-fridge in use until last century. Events Children’s Carnival: in January and in February The Sala Festival: June Puppet-Theatres in parks and gardens, puppet Shows: in July and in Aaugust Nocturnal Carnival: July Verso Ovest (Towards the West), musical events: July Medieval Evenings: end of August and September Summer of San Martino, events linked to rural culture: November Visit at the Dosolo Flood-Basin Photo by Consorzio Bonifica Reno-Palata MARKET DAY: Friday in Padulle, Monday in Osteria Nuova

41 San Giovanni in Persiceto

The Politeama Communal Theatre The theatre was built in 1786 by the archi- tect Giuseppe Tubertini. The present atrium, decorated with two plaster statues of Alfieri and Goldoni, dates back to 1850. A few years The town of San Giovanni in Persiceto, home later, the ceiling of the stalls was painted of the carnival and character of Bertoldo, is with chiaroscuro motifs by the famous notable for its large medieval historical centre decorative artist Andrea Pesci (also respon- with its original concentric layout. sible for decorating the buildings of Palazzi Malvasia, Malvezzi, Paleotti and Simonetti in The particular form of the old town centre, cal- Bologna) and his young student Gaetano led Borgo Rotondo, perhaps dates back as far Lodi. In 1860, the renovated theatre was as the Lombard period. The Abbey of Nonan- inaugurated with a production of Giuseppe tola used to hold power over the territory of Verdi’s Rigoletto. The interior still has the Persiceto, until the 9th century when some of it complete 18th-century structure: particularly became part of the Bolognese territory. It was effective is the beautiful proscenium with in that period that the first concessions were two tall golden Corinthian columns crow- granted to the local population by the Abbots ned by an elegant trabeation. Used as a grain of Nonantola and the Bolognese Bishops of store during the First World War, then tur- vast tracts of uncultivated and swampy land for ned into a cinema and damaged in the reclamation. These lands became the basis of Second World War, it has now been resto- the future agrarian “Partecipanza” (page 190). As red to its complete original splendour. well as in the county town, the Consortium of Today it hosts shows, concerts, conventions Participants of San Giovanni in Persiceto has a and conferences. seat in the village of San Matteo della Decima: the Ca’ Granda, a building that is available for cultural events. the Bentivoglio family. Modified several times, it is still today used as a municipal residence. In the central square, the Piazza del Popolo, Next door, there is the Communal Theatre, there is the Collegiate Church of San Giovan- inaugurated in 1790. ni Battista, whose construction began in 1671, designed by Paolo Emilio Canali, with a 19th- century façade. In the Baroque interior, among rich 18th-century stuccoes which have recently been restored to their original splendour, the- re are paintings by the main exponents of Bolognese painting from the 16th to the 19th century: Guercino, Albani, Gandolfi and Guar- dassoni.

Opposite the Collegiate Church, there is the Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall), of 15th-centu- ry origin, with its highly particular 18th-century staircase by the architect Giuseppe Tubertini. The construction of this vast building in the Communal Theatre late 15th century, was due to the dominion of Photo by Comune di San Giovanni in Persiceto 42 Piazza del Popolo Photo by Comune di San Giovanni in Persiceto - Fabio Fantuzzi

Culture and Famous Names Events Giulio Cesare Croce Historical Carnival Giulio Cesare Croce is the creator of The carnival takes place on the last two Bertoldo, the coarse but quick-witted pea- Sundays before Lent and its traditional cha- sant central to the work “Le sottilissime racter is called Bertoldo. As well as boasting astuzie di Bertoldo”, telling of his adventures a centuries-old tradition, this carnival, like as he uses his ingenuity to reach the court the one in Decima, has a unique element: of King Alboino, where he dies because he the “Spillo”, "Spél” in Bolognese dialect, cannot eat “beans with onions and turnips meaning “transformation”. cooked in ashes”. A historical singer-son- During the first Sunday of fancy dress pro- gwriter and author of well-known popular cessions, allegorical floats parade through poetry in Italian and Bolognese dialect, at the centre until they reach the town square, his death he left a total of 478 books, of where the “spillo” happens: the multicolou- which about 300 still exist. He was the red architectural structures are spectacular- author of burlesque compositions, trage- ly transformed, revealing the real allegorical dies, poems, operettas, comedies and far- meaning of the constructions. The floats are ces, many of which recall the Commedia entirely created by local carnival societies, dell’Arte and the atmosphere of carnival. who spend the months leading up to Carnival working with tireless dedication in their respective workshops, keeping the themes and features of their creations abso- lutely secret. On the second Sunday, the flo- ats are judged by a jury which awards a cloth showing Bertoldo and Bertoldino with their donkey.

43 History and Culture wood, where he worked on such great films Piazzetta Betlemme as “2001, A Space Odyssey”, “West Side Story”, Not to be missed is “Guess Who’s Co- the fantastic Piaz- ming To Dinner” and zetta Betlemme, re- “Mutiny On The named “La piazzetta Bounty”, Pellegrini degli inganni” (The imagined turning Little Square of Tri- this small square in- cks) due to its multi- to a homage to ci- coloured trompes- nema, and over the l’oeil by the famous course of the years, set designer Gino painted various sce- Pellegrini. Having just nes combining reali- returned from Holly- ty and imagination.

In Piazza Garibaldi, there is the Church of the Then, in Piazza Carducci, there is the medieval Madonna della Cintura (1574-1603), designed Convent Complex of San Francesco, with by Alfonso Lombardi, with an Oratory attached atmospheric cloisters and a room with an in 1712. The walnut-wood choir is magnificent. interesting fresco showing the Last Supper (visits by appointment). Next door to the Church, the Palazzo SS. Salvatore, built in the 18th century by Giuseppe Near San Matteo della Decima, a few kilome- Civoli, was used as a hospital until last century. tres from Cento, it is worth visiting Villa Now it houses the communal historical archive Giovannina, built in 1504 on a design by and the “G. C. Croce” Communal Library, which Sebastiano Serlio for Giovanni II Bentivoglio. contains important collections donated by the The battlements of its towers are an intere- local citizens Alberto Bergamini, founder of the sting example of the passage from medieval “Giornale d’Italia”, and the great religious histo- castle to noble residence. The land on which rian Raffaele Pettazzoni. the villa-castle was built was given to the Bentivoglio family by the people of Persiceto However, the oldest building in San Giovanni as thanks for the excavation of the “Cavamen- is the Palazzaccio or Casa dell’Abate (Abbot’s to”, a water manifold which made it possible House) in Via Gramsci, with its particular high to farm and live in vast areas of the territory portico and oak columns. The building dates towards Crevalcore. Inside the villa, there are back to the 13th-14th centuries and was used to frescoe attributed to Guercino, carried out store tithes for the Abbey of Nonantola. between 1617 and 1632. It was for this castle that the Guercino also painted the famous Museums Aldrovandi Dog, commissioned by his friend The 17th-century sacristy of the Collegiate Filippo Aldrovandi and today exhibited in Church houses over 40 Bolognese painting museum in Pasadena, California. from the 16th to the 19th century (the “San Giovanni Battista” by Francia, works by In the village of Le Budrie, the Bolognese Saint Tiarini, Randa, A. L. Crespi, the Gandolfi bro- Clelia Barbieri lived and died. She was the foun- thers, Creti and Passerotti) and a collection der of the religious order, the “Suore Minime of liturgical objects: silverware from the 16th dell’Addolorata”, and was canonized on the 9th to the 19th century, works in coral from the April 1989 by John Paul II. The reliquaries of the 14th century with splendid miniatures by Saint are kept in the Oratory of San Giuseppe. Nicolò Di Giacomo, and sacred ornaments. Also in Le Budrie, it is worth visiting the impo- MUSEUM OF SACRED ART sing structure of Villa Caprara, built near the Piazza del Popolo, 22 banks of the Samoggia. A grand country resi- 40017 San Giovanni in Persiceto (BO) dence of the powerful noble family, today it Tel. 051.821254/051.6812962 Historical Archive houses the stables of the Orsi Mangelli. Fax 051.824151/051.827017 Historical Archive Opening times: Sunday 9-12 am; Saturday on In the Public Relations Offices (Urp) of the request 9-12 am. Councils which are part of the association Tickets: full price  2.50, reductions  1.50 “Terre d’acqua”, you can find a map entitled “Il for under-18s, over-60s, schoolchildren and territorio e i suoi prodotti - Oltre i luoghi organized groups. comuni”, which suggests itineraries for cycling and gives a guide to buying agricultural pro- duce directly from farms. 44 Museums - Science and Technique MUSEUM OF THE SKY AND THE EARTH Nature Astronomical and Natural History Sections, Museum of the Sky and the Earth V.lo Baciadonne, 1; Naturalistic and Entomo- The Museum is divided into five sections: logical Sections, Via Marzocchi, 16; Physics - the Astronomical Section contains the third Section, Piazza Carducci, 9 40017 San Giovan- largest Planetarium in Italy, the Astronomical ni in Persiceto (BO) Observatory, a meteoro logical station and a Tel. 051.827067 - Fax 051.981908 museum with an important collection [email protected] of meteorites; Opening times: - the Natural History Section contains Planetarium: Sunday 3:30-5:30pm (September the Botanical Garden, with about 300 may), Friday 9 - 11pm and by appointment. species of woodland flora and shrubs Astronomical Observatory: Tuesday from the region; and Friday 9 - 11pm and by appointment. - the Naturalistic Section contains "La Bora", Botanical Garden: free entrance every day a 22-hectare Area of Environmental during daylight hours. Restructuring, aimed at guaranteeing “La Bora”: free entrance for up to five the survival, care and study of the native people every day during daylight hours; flora and fauna species. Among the winterin larger groups must be accompanied by species over the last few years, cormorants a paid guide. have appea red. Among the Birds of Prey, Technoscientific and Insect Laboratories: there are buz zards, marsh harriers, sparrow opening times by appointment. hawks and owls. The area is equipped with Every Saturday and Sunday, the 5 sections trails, screened observation points and a hide; take turns to offer educational activities - the Physics Section consists of a for families and children on payment. Technoscientific Laboratory which, besides a display of scientific instruments, houses tem- Tickets: porary thematic exhibitions, conventions Observatory, Botanical Garden, and educational activities; and “La Bora”, free entrance; - the Entomological Section is the most recent Planetarium and Insect Laboratory, and houses the Insect Laboratory, a genuine full price  3.50, reductions  3 living museum dedicated to direct observ- (groups of at least 25 people), ation of insect life.  2 (under-14s and students).

In the itinerary there are places of great natu- Nature ralistic interest, such as the Manzolino oasis, The Manzolino Oasis of the San Giovanni the Museum of the Sky and the Earth, and the Canal Flood Basin Archaeological-Environmental Museum. The Manzolino Oasis of the San Giovanni Canal Flood Basin is one of the most impor- Museums tant wet zones in central Emilia. The aban- The museum illustrates the history and doned mill of Formagliaro with its long por- development of the territory between the tico is a reference point. In the three lakes Roman Era and the 16th century with nume- that make up the basin, there is rich marsh rous Roman remains (the result of recent vegetation with reed-beds providing a safe archaeological digging), fragments of et- refuge for nesting by many animal species. ched kitchen and tableware ceramics from The fauna is composed of amphibians, rep- the second half of the 16th century, and tiles (marsh tortoises, water snakes), mam- material from the archaeological site of an mals (foxes and coypu) and above all, marsh entire fortified village from the middle cen- birds such as herons, marsh falcons, grebes, turies of the Medieval period. coots and cormorants. On the edge of the THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL area, there are two free observation points: ENVIRONMENTAL MUSEUM the panoramic viewpoint, accessible to eve- Porta Garibaldi, Circonvallazione Dante ryone, on the west side, and the tower, on 40017 San Giovanni in Persiceto (BO) the east side. Tel. 051.6871757, Fax 051-823305 Info: Consorzio di Bonifica Reno-Palata [email protected] via Amendola 12, Bologna Opening times: Saturday 5-7pm, Sunday Tel. 051.254510, Fax 051.254172 10-12am and 5-7pm, closed in August. www.consorziorenopalata.it Tickets: full price  2, reductions  1, free for under-6s.

45 Gastronomy and Wine A visit to the territory would not be comple- te without a tour through the flavours of the plain. In various places you can try the wines and typical dishes of Bolognese cooking, such as tortellini, lasagne, bollito (boiled meat) and salami, as well as some specialities specific to the Persiceto area, such as “Africa- netti” and “Savoiardi di Persiceto”, delicious biscuits made with eggs and sugar, conside- red to be among the most traditional alimen- tary products of the Emilia-Romagna region. Buskers Photo by Comune di San Giovanni in Persiceto - Fabio Fantuzzi

Events Historical Carnival of Persiceto: last two Sundays before Lent. Arte&City, a great programme of cultural events. During the last week-end, hundreds of street artists from all over the world bring the historical centre to life with their shows: from the end of June to the end of September. Africanetti biscuits Fira di ai (Garlic Festival): second half of June. Photo by Diateca Agricoltura della Regione Emilia-Romagna Autumn Fair: second half of September. Fabrizio Dell’Aquila San Matteo della Decima Gastronomy and Wine Vècia (Old Woman), on the eve of the The Traditional Melons and Waterme- Epiphany in the countryside, large dummies, lons of San Matteo della Decima 8-10 metres high, are built, portraying “La On the fertile Samoggia plain, the Traditional Befana” (a witchlike figure associated with Melons and Watermelons of San Matteo della the Epiphany), which are burnt at sunset in Decima are cultivated. The melons and water- the presence of a numerous public shouting melons here have a special flavour, tastier but “A brusa la Vècia” (“Burn the old woman”). also sweeter, thanks to the high potassium Meanwhile the “Fcén” (little old people), content of the terrain. As far back as 1303, Pier groups of young and not-so-young people, De’ Crescenzi, founder of Bolognese agrono- dressed as old men and women, go from my among other things, spoke of them in his house to house offering gifts and reciting treatise Ruralium Commodorum Libri XII, “zirudelle” (nursery rhymes in dialect); in giving not only guidelines for cultivation, but exchange they receive a small tip or some- suggestions for different ways of eating them. thing to eat or drink: evening of January 5th. Various documents going back to the early 20th Historical Carnival, with the stock charac- century are kept in the historical archives of ter of the King, “Re Fagiolo di Castella”: last the Consortium of Participants of San two Sundays before Lent. Giovanni in Persiceto. The production territo- “La cucombra” - Festival of the Melon ry extends over an area of about 5,000 hecta- and Watermelon: early July. res in the lands of San Giovanni in Persiceto. Un paese all’opera, an open-air opera show: the evening of the 14th August. Festone (Thanksgiving Festival): the second weekend of October.

Le Budrie Festa delle Spighe (ears of wheat): early June. Festival in honour of Santa Clelia Barbieri: 13th July

MARKET DAY: Wednesday, Friday in San Matteo della Decima Watermelons and Melons of San Matteo della Decima Photo by Comune di San Giovanni in Persiceto 46 Sant’Agata Bolognese

Sant’Agata Bolognese is a lovely plains village, In the historical centre, you should not miss a 6 kilometres from San Giovanni in Persiceto, visit to some of the most significant monu- Known the world over for the automobile ments in the Bolognese territory. producers, Lamborghini. The Parish Church, as well as housing a portrait Museums - Science and Technique of Sant’Agata attributed to Guido Reni, con- Land of Motors - The Lamborghini Museum tains the detached frescoes of the Oratory of The Museum, housed inside the Lambor- the Holy Ghost, masterpieces of 16th-century ghini premises, has an exhibition of auto- art. Created around 1520 by artists of refined mobiles bearing witness to the various Raffaello-esque style (the names of Nicolò periods of the company from the sixties dell’Abate and Bagnacavallo have been sugge- to the present day: from the 350 GT series sted), the frescoes consist of life-size figures of of 1963, the Diablo, the Miura of 1966, the the Redeemer and the Apostles. Connected Countach of 1973 to Formula One vehicles to Porta Otesia, the Oratory of the Holy and much more. The company’s history is Ghost was built in 1473 by the homonymous also illustrated, thanks to numerous pho- religious order. The Oratory is in two parts: the tographs, panels and models from all over first is a sort of entrance hall in which there the world. Guided visits. are two altars dedicated to the Blessed Virgin LAMBORGHINI MUSEUM of Carmine and to San Antonio of Padova, Via Modena, 12 with statues by the Bolognese sculptor Filippo 40019 Sant’Agata Bolognese (BO) Scandellari. The second part is the Oratory Tel. 051.6817654 - Fax 051.6817737 itself, where there is a precious wooden Choir [email protected] and an altar piece depicting the descent of the www.lamborghini.com Holy Ghost at the Last Supper. Opening times: Monday to Friday, 9-12:30 In 1905, the Oratory was declared a national am and 2:30-5 pm. monument, as was the village tower. It can be visited with prior booking.

Lamborghini Museum Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Guido Avoni 47 Bibiena Theatre - Photo by Comune di Sant’Agata Bolognese

The Ferdinando Bibiena Theatre A few kilometres from Sant’Agata, there is The origins of the theatre, which is housed also Nonantola and its Abbey, visiting which in the town hall, date back to the end of means crossing once more into the territory the 18th century, even though it has nothing of Modena. to do with the theatre of Sant’ Agata plan- ned by Ferdinando Galli Bibiena in 1718. The History and Culture inauguration of the theatre in its present The Abbey of Nonantola was a big centre form took place on the 27th October 1888, of European civilization since early Middle with a production of Pipelet. It is named Ages when the Benedectine monks copied after the Bibiena family, who tradition dic- in their “scriptorium” what was made from tates used to have a residence in Sant’Agata culture of previus centuries, saving it from opposite the Oratory of the Holy Ghost. fires and devastations of that years. “The The main feature of this theatre is how Abbey archive is an incredible source of small and intimate it is (only one hundred information and has some illuminated seats in elegant stalls), a characteristic manuscripts. The town itself is also of inte- which has led to the choice of particularly rest.” cultured activities. Renzo Renzi

The Bibiena Theatre is also very interesting, Events one of the territory’s small jewels. Festival of Sant’Agata: February The distance from here to Modena is short May Fair: last Sunday of May and it is worthwhile continuing the itinerary Sonica Bassa Music Festival: third wee- in the “Land of Motors”, with at least a stop kend of June at the Ferrari Gallery in Maranello and at Maserati, whose trademark symbol, Nep- MARKET DAY: Thursday and the first tune’s trident, recalls the company’s Bolo- Sunday of each month gnese origins.

48 Crevalcore

Piazza Malpighi Photo by Provincia di Bologna Culture and Famous Names Marcello Malpighi The historical centre of Crevalcore still main- Born in Crevalcore, Malpighi studied Me- tains almost all of the original layout created dicine in Bologna, where in 1655, he then between the 18th and 19th centuries, in particu- taught Logic. Called to Pisa by Ferdinando II lar regarding the buildings facing onto the to take over the chair of Theory of Medi- main street. cine, his ideas started to be influenced by The visual effect is undoubtedly fascinating, the thoughts of Galileo. Recalled to Bolo- so much so as to have provoked the enthu- gna in 1659 as lecturer in Theory of Extraor- siasm of the great art historian Francesco Ar- dinary Medicine, in 1660 he then passed to cangeli. ordinary medicine. Nominated pontifical physician to Pope Innocence XII, he moved In the central square, a bronze sculpture to Rome in 1691, where he died three years dated 1897 commemorates Crevalcore’s most later. famous son, the scientist Marcello Malpighi. His scientific activities, aimed in particular at microscopic anatomy, led him to investi- In the Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall) there gate the human body in a scientific manner. are still some traces of work by the famous For his international fame, the Royal Society decorative artist Gaetano Lodi. Here you can in London made him an honorary member also find the historical archive, containing the in 1669. In 1686-1687, his Opera Omnia was important “Cabrei”, historical maps belonging published in London in 2 volumes with 122 to the Pepoli family. plates etched in copper.

49 As with San Giovanni and Sant’Agata Communal Theatre Bolognese, it is worth visiting the historical The history of Crevalcore’s ancient theatre, Communal Theatre, inaugurated in 1881. planned by Giacomo Monari, a student of Ferdinando Galli Bibiena, is linked to the activities of the “Accademia degli Indiffe- renti Risoluti” (1648). When the old theatre was demolished in 1874, a new one was created. The decoration was entrusted to the local Crevalcore artist, Gaetano Lodi, the talented decorative artist to the Court of Savoia, who achieved international fame for his decorations in the foyer of the Paris Opera and in the Khedive’s Palace in Cairo. For the theatre’s interior, which still exists today, Lodi created a flame-red floral com- Communal Theatre position in oriental style, which spreads Photo by Provincia di Bologna through the whole theatre, achieving its greatest effect on the ceiling. The curtain, Puppets are strongly linked to the traditions of created to look like an ancient tapestry, these lands and to the commedia dell’arte, and shows Marcello Malpighi at the court of the Crevalcore has dedicated a museum to them. Grand Duke Ferdinando II of Tuscany. The theatre was inaugurated on the 3rd Septem- Museums ber 1881 with Verdi’s Il Trovatore. In 1906, THE LEO PRETI PUPPET MUSEUM with the arrival of socialists in charge of Via della Rocca, 2 - 40014 Crevalcore (BO) local government, the theatre began to host Tel. 051.6800834 - Fax 051.6803580 political and social events, provoking the [email protected] wrath of the owners of the theatre’s boxes. The “World’s Smallest Puppet Museum” con- During the Second World War, the Germans tains over a hundred characters: devils, ani- turned it into a field hospital. mals, wizards, witches, fairies and ladies, crea- Today it has a rich theatrical calendar and is ted by the local puppeteer from Crevalcore, available for other events. Leo Preti, as well as a rich collection of back- drops. It is open periodically and with prior booking. Free entrance and guided visits. Puppet Museum Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Guido Avoni

50 Just as interesting as the historical centre of Nature Crevalcore is its vast territory, scattered with Setting off from the centre of Crevalcore, extraordinary country villas, here called by bicycle or on foot for serious walkers, “castles”: Ronchi, Palata Pepoli, Galeazza visitors can reach the most relevant sites Pepoli and Bevilacqua. from the point of view of the territory’s history and environmental qualities, gui- The Castle of Palata Pepoli was built under ded by precise and detailed signs. Along commission from Count Filippo Pepoli the route, there are plaques describing the around 1540. It has a notable porticoed history of the sites (churches, castles, courtyard. The building has elements of historic buildings), displays describing the severe elegance which reveal its relationship natural elements (Areas of Environmental to contemporary buildings in Bologna and Restructuring, mills, ponds, hedges, etc.), as Ferrara. All the property of the Pepoli family, well as informative signs about the territo- including the Castle, were given over to the ry’s farms (many of them open for direct Torlonia princes in the mid-20th century. Of sale of their biological and high-quality the original interior decoration, there remain produce). The route is also equipped with only the beautiful doors in soft wood, varni- a picnic area near the interesting area of shed with rococo motifs. Environmental Restructuring, the “Vasche Ex Zuccherificio” (the ponds of an ex- The Parish Church of Palata Pepoli contains sugar processing plant), complete with a collection of paintings from the Bolognese wooden benches and tables. The project is school from the 16th to 18th century, with financed by the Province of Bologna and works by Francesco Gessi, Alessandro Tiarini, the Town Councils which are part of the Giovan Battista Ramenghi, Ercole Graziani “Terre d’Acqua” Association. and Bartolomeo Passerotti.

The Castle of Galeazza Pepoli has its ori- corners, it was built by Count Onofrio gins in an imposing 16th-century tower built Bevilacqua in the second half of the 16th cen- by Galeazzo Pepoli. Towards the end of the tury. The Bolognina Church is notable for the century, a villa was constructed around the paintings of Simone Cantarini and Elisabetta tower. Then, around 1870, it was redevelo- Sirani. ped in neo-medieval style. In the Galeazza Church, there are the The complex of Villa Ronchi, in an area of the remains of theBlessed Don Ferdinando Maria same name, is composed of a 16th-century Baccilieri, founder of the adjoining convent noble house and an elegant 18th-century which, since 1862, has housed the Congre- church with an elliptical layout. Restoration gation of the Servants of Maria. In the con- work on the frescoes in the noble house have vent, there is also an interesting museum confirmed the presence of the hand of the 18- dedicated to its founder. year-old Agostino Carracci. Today the villa is an exhibition and cultural centre belonging Museums to the local council. A few kilometres away THE GUIDO MATTIOLI PEACE MUSEUM stands the Oratory known as La Rotonda, Via XXV Aprile, 85 - 40014 Crevalcore (BO) commissioned by Maria Vittoria Caprara as an Tel. 051.6800834 - Fax 051.6803580 ex voto and built between 1765 and 1768 by [email protected] the architect Fancelli, a student of Dotti. The museum houses a collection of relics from the First World War, given to the town Eventi council by the collector Guido Mattioli, Flower Festival: end of March who had painstakingly gathered them in Fiera Del Carmine, agricultural, industrial the area of Carso. and commercial fair: July It is open periodically and with prior boo- Tavolata, a public feast, along the town’s king. Free entrance and guided visits. main street: September. Villa Ronchi Festival, at the castle: in sum- mer The Palazzo Bevilacqua Ariosti is a typical Festival of Flavours: October Bolognese noble house. A powerful building with two tower-shaped avant-corps at the MARKET DAY: Tuesday

51