canon al 1 instruction manual

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Butkus, 29 Lake Ave., High Bridge, NJ 088291701 and send your email addressItll make you feel better, wont it Use the above address for a check, M.O. or cash. NOTE they only print in Black and White. This is a digitally enhanced online version, which loads fast, saving you the bother of downloading and printing it. If you are a collector then you will need to purchase a glossy paper based one in This will appear jammed without a battery, so ensure you use the correct type as shown in the manual. This camera has a twostage release switch, and depressing it half way switches the circuits ON. At this point, you can look through the viewfinder to get the light reading and begin using the However, depressing the shutter release fully makes the second stage of the twostage switch conduct and that releases the electronic shutter. This camera has a multislotted takeup spool, where you insert the film leader into the slot marked with an arrow. Please refer to the following articles for more information. Therefore, please refer to these articles. Opening the back cover to insert a roll of film involves pulling up the film rewind knob, which makes the door pop open. In this mode, you simply compose your frame, focus the lens, and adjust the aperture for the desired . The camera takes care of everything else so that each shot is perfectly exposed. However, this is for the professionals who know what they are doing. To beginners it might appear that there are not enough shutter speeds, but actually, they are sufficient.http://mekongauto.com.vn/uploads/userfiles/cs5121-vtech-manual.xml

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Even though CanonThis model fired theHowever, the MEF, like all the earlierThe Maxxum 7000 was the worldsNikon, on the other hand, made a variation ofThe focus assistance feature of the Al1 seemedThe QF feature providesA green spot lights up when the subjectAnd because the Quick Focus employed a TTL throughthelensMain features of Canon AL1 Quick Focus SLR camera The focus detectionSurprisingly, unlike the other Canon Aseries SLRHowever, it has a manual override feature which theThe Canon T80,See RelativeEEwyn Foo, my nephew, who. The manual is automatically downloaded on the desktop or in the file downloads of your computer. The same way is also possible if you prefer to search by choosing the menu Brands.To view the documents, you must have Adobe Reader installed on your computer. To download free the most recent version of this software click here. Advanced Gday Sign in to bid or buy eBay Deals Coles on eBay Help Sell Watch List Expand Watch list Loading. Something went wrong. Don’t blow a fuse trying to figure out what happened, and don’t make the situation even worse by trying to fix what you don’t understand. If you’ve lost your original camera manual or guide, the first step is to check out the great range available here on eBay, and you can find a replacement manual for the one you lost, as quick as a . Finding the manual for your camera When you’re looking to find the ideal part for your camera, the first place youd typically look is the manufacturer’s manual or guide. But when the manual or guide is exactly what you need to replace, creativity is the aim of the day. If you know the model of your camera, then that’s the easiest place to start. If not, it’s time to put on your detective’s hat. Perhaps you can locate the receipt from when you purchased the camera and that will have the model number on it. Maybe the receipt was emailed to you and you can search your email archive to find the model number.http://hetodon.com/fckeditorfiles/cs55-user-manual.xml

A careful investigation of the camera itself may reveal the model number. It could be printed on the chassis or perhaps inside the battery flap. An internet search with the camera brand and a few features may help you figure out the model number. If all else fails, you could try calling the brand manufacturer and describing the camera to them. Once you have the make and model number, it should be a simple enough task to search eBay for the right manual or guide. If you’re in the market for a new to add to your photography line up or perhaps it’s time to expand your range of camera lenses and filters, don’t hesitate to check out the range available. Whatever the make and model of your camera, finding a replacement camera manual or guide is a snap thanks to the great range available here on eBay today. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured powered by Verisign. If you’d like to contribute towards this site’s growing hosting and cloud storage fees, here’s how. It was the last in the Canon Aseries which started with the AE1 in 1976, and was one of Canon’s last to use their aging FD . The AL1’s signature feature was a very innovative focus confirmation system which allowed photographers to use manual focus lenses and see LED indicators in the viewfinder that would help them get perfect focus. Although the AL1 was not a true auto focus camera, it served as a bridge between existing manual focus only cameras, and a true SLR. Combined with aperture priority auto , the AL1 was a pretty advanced camera that simplified exposure and focus composition for novice photographers. The issue is that the door that holds the batteries in place almost always breaks. Making matters worse, a metal plate that bridges the two AAA batteries together almost always falls out, meaning the camera can’t get any power.

Being fully electronic, when this happens there is no way to use the camera, not even at a single speed like other electronic shutter cameras like the EM or Yashica Electro can. I thought the experience was worth sharing with you in a second review. Most of the text below is a duplicate of that first review, but I edited out all references to the camera not working, and added my thoughts about what it was like to use it. It is a completely electronic camera that doesn’t do anything if the battery dies. While that’s not exactly unique to the AE1 as there have been many other SLRs that suffer the same fate with a dead battery, it doesn’t have to be this way. All Nikon SLRs made during the production run of the AE1 are still usable with at least one speed, with a dead battery, even the lowly Nikon EM. There are some advantages to shutter priority like when shooting sports or other fast moving objects, and I can certainly understand that for a beginner trying to explain shutter speeds is a lot easier than aperture fstops, but I find that in my style of photography I prefer aperture priority much more. Then I discovered the Canon AV1. Although it lacks any sort of full manual control, the AV1 is physically smaller and weighs less, and has a better designed battery compartment than the AE1, yet it supports all the same lenses. The Canon AV1 was one of the earlier cameras I reviewed on this site, and since that post was first published back in May 2015, I’ve taken it out numerous times since then. I find the compact and lightweight feel of the body, with the bright viewfinder, and awesome Canon lenses to be an excellent combination. If I want a mechanical, fully manual camera, I just take something else, but for those family trips to the zoo where I don’t want to think, the AV1 is a great choice. I thought, WOW, this could be the perfect Canon SLR.

I could still use my Canon FD mount lenses, and would still have aperture priority auto exposure, but the camera could also help me judge accurate focus, just like my Nikon D7000 DSLR does when I use manual focus lenses. I was sold, until I started to look for one. It is still a manual focus camera, but it uses an array of three sensors that act as sort of an electronic rangefinder to determine whether something is correctly in focus or not. Canon called this the “QF” or “Quick Focus” system. The QF system was advanced for it’s day and worked quite well. Although I have not found any evidence of this, I would guess that the research and development needed while making the AL1 meant that the camera was sold as a loss. I have to imagine that Canon used this model as a test platform while developing their eventual auto focus platform which would debut with the EOS 650 in 1987. I won’t duplicate too much here, but if you are interested, I highly recommend reading their article. The gist is that by having a reflex mirror with an intricate semitransparent pattern, some of the light from the lens would pass through the main reflex mirror and be reflected onto a second “submirror” that pointed to 3 CCD line sensors on the bottom of the mirror box. You can see both the semitransparent pattern, and the submirror inset in the image to the right. Using 3 LEDs visible in the viewfinder, two left and right arrows would indicate if the image is over or under focused, and a third green dot would indicate proper focus. This type of focus confirmation became standard in the years to come, and a similar system it still used today on fully automatic digital cameras when using manual focus lenses. In the early days of auto focus cameras, Canon was always ahead of other companies like Nikon who took a bit longer to perfect their AF systems, so I have no doubt that the QF system in the AL1 likely worked very well.

In fact, in an article from a 1982 issue of Modern Photography, the reviewer was impressed with the accuracy and flexibility of the Quick Focus system, saying The AL1 Quick Focus will not only speed up, but also sharpen up, the focus of users uncomfortable with the subjectivity of focusing. By the time the AL1 was released, more and more cameras were featuring AA and AAA alkaline and manganese batteries. Although these batteries were larger than the button cell ones that came before them, they were much cheaper and lasted quite a bit longer. Plus, by relocating the battery compartment inside of a hand grip, early SLRs like the AL1 and the Maxxum 7000 showed the first hints at a modern hand grip. Even for ones that aren’t missing, there is a metal plate that is supposed to be on the under side of the door that completes the circuit between the two batteries. It’s poor reputation for reliability is definitely a huge part of it, but also working against it is that it was the last of the Canon Aseries. It was overshadowed by it’s much more popular AE1 and AE1 Program sibling. I was never able to find out how many were built, but there cant be a lot because for every 1 AL1 that shows up for sale, there’s probably 19 other Canon Aseries cameras. In my research for this model, I have looked at all other available AL1s for sale on eBay and they all either confirm that there is an issue with the battery door, or clearly show a picture of it missing or open which suggests they all have the same problem. The biggest issue is that the door is a cheap piece of plastic that is held in place by a very thin flap of plastic that is maybe 1mm wide. The door barely stays shut when the battery compartment is empty, but when you load in two AAA batteries, the tension of the spring at the bottom of the battery chamber puts enough pressure on that door that it bulges as if at any moment, the latch will fail causing the batteries to shoot across the room.

There are so many cameras that used AAA and AA batteries in a hand grip orientation like this that don’t suffer such regular fail rates, that I am amazed the QC people at Canon let this one slide. Even more amazing is that this wasn’t the first, or even second Canon SLR to suffer from a poorly designed battery door. The Canon AE1 from 1976 and Canon A1 had poorly designed battery doors that were prone to fail. Canon obviously was aware of this as the Canon AV1 from 1979 and Canon AE1 Program from 1981 each had slightly improved but still poor battery doors that resisted failure. You would think that with the company’s reputation as having weak battery doors, someone would have thought that upon the AL1’s release in 1982 would have said “Hey guys, we can do better than this.” But nope, they went and made it worse. For one, the hand grip is quite comfortable. In terms of size and comfort, the hand grip is somewhere between the vestigial hump that Japanese camera makers added to the bodies of cameras like the Canon A1 or the Nikon FA, and the huge and deep grips that adorn modern DSLR cameras. The choice of two AAA batteries as opposed to four AA cells like the Minolta Maxxum 7000 means the camera still has a relatively compact size consistent with other manual focus bodies of the era. This camera predates the widespread use of lowrent plastic that creaks in your hands and screams of an economy model. The metering system is as accurate as anything available on the market. Finally, the use of the Canon FD mount means that photographers had an established selection of several hundred excellent Canon and third party lenses to choose from. The AL1 offers a type of focus assist not commonly found in SLR cameras when this model was released in 1982. There were a few models that had focus assist using manual focus lenses such as the very rare Minolta X600, the ME F, and Olympus OM30, but these were all low production cameras that were not sold for very long.

Canon was obviously onto something though, as it would seem they learned something from the AL1 as Canon’s EOS system hit the ground running with a quality auto focus design right out of the gate. Photographers championed the speed and accuracy of the Canon EOS 650 in 1987, saying it was better than anything offered by their competition. Since the system is not automatic, it can’t track moving subjects, but I tested it on a variety of reflective surfaces, on vertical and horizontal lines and the system got it right every time.My Nikon D7000 DSLR works basically the same way. Unlike my D7000 however, the AL1s QF system shows it’s age in that it can only detect focus at one point in the center of the image. Gone are typical focus aides on manual focus SLRs like a split image or microprism circle, and in their place are two little brackets like those found in early auto focus point and shoot cameras. The camera can only determine focus if your subject is in between these two brackets. If you want to compose your image and your point of focus is not in the center, you must “prefocus” first by putting your point of focus in between the brackets, then half pressing the shutter release and holding it while recomposing your shot before pressing the shutter release the rest of the way down. As limited as this sounds, I had no issue with it during my test roll. Not to mention, with the inclusion of a focus assist feature on this model, I doubt the target customer ever took this camera off Auto mode very often. I enjoy a full manual experience on many of my classic cameras, but I am not pompous enough to suggest that I don’t on occasion appreciate modern electronic conveniences. The Canon AL1 might be the most optimal “best of both worlds” camera ever made.

A classic and compact body reminiscent of the manual focus era, on a body with a bright and useful viewfinder, a top notch AE system, a useful, but not overbearing hand grip, the ability to use countless Canon FD mount lenses, and an accurate and useful focus assist system.I like going to Crown Point because it is a historic area shaped like a large square with the county courthouse in the center and shops all around it on 4 sides. I find that there’s always something worth photographing each time I go there, Of course these are to be expected of any camera with a quality lens, so what I have to say is less about the images and more about the experience. The images to the left and right are the same exact shot of the clock at the top of the Lake County Courthouse. Earlier in this review, I show the AL1 with the Komura lens composing these exact images. Although I do detect a hint of softness using the Komura, they are still quite good, and much better than anything you’d get from a 500mm mirror, or 500mm “super zoom” lens.The Canon AL1 is one of those cameras. It amazes me that Canon took such an “out of the box” approach and not only implemented inbody focus confirmation several years before a true auto focus system was ready, but hit a home run doing it. Perhaps it was that 5 year headstart with the system in the AL1 that is the reason the EOS 650 was so successful as Canon’s first AF SLR, or perhaps they were just lucky. I’ll repeat what I said earlier in this review that it has a classic and compact body reminiscent of the manual focus era, on a body with a bright and useful viewfinder, a top notch AE system, a useful, but not overbearing hand grip, the ability to use countless Canon FD mount lenses, and an accurate and useful focus assist system.This is unfortunate as it’s a really great camera with a feature set unlike few others in the history of photography which is it’s ability to detect correct focus using manual focus Canon FD mount lenses.

Although still a manual focus camera, an electronic sensor will confirm correct focus via a light in the viewfinder when your subject is in focus. Amazingly, it works incredibly well, but sadly, very few people these days will be able to experience it due to previously mentioned battery problems. If you have a large selection of Canon FD mount lenses and are interested in a body that has electronic focus confirmation, I challenge you to seek out a working AL1, it’s worth it! I always assumed the MEF was one of those early auto focus cameras that only worked when used with a very specific AF lens designed for that one camera, but upon looking through it’s user manual at Mike Butkus’s site, it does say that it offers focus confirmation using standard SMC Super Takumar Lenses! And autofocus with a special zoom. I do think that later upgrades of the 1980s cameras were spoiled by cheap plastic. That and I piece of electrical tape over the battery compartment works very well. What lenses do you recommend for the AL1 something wide angle and an other telephoto, say, 135 mm. My other cameras are a Practica MTL 50 and a Kodak Retina 2A. Also I think great cameras to use. D. You would think I would have known that when I wrote this review, as I actually do have a Konica FS1 in my collection! Cancel reply Back to Top If you would like to know about your rights, please review our Privacy Policy, otherwise, please click Accept below. Accept Decline Privacy Policy. Please help improve it or discuss these issues on the talk page. Learn how and when to remove these template messages Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed.Relevant discussion may be found on the talk page. Please help improve this article by introducing citations to additional sources.It was manufactured by Canon Camera K. K. today Canon Incorporated in Japan from April 1976 to 1984.

The camera body is 87 mm tall, 141 mm wide, and 48 mm deep; it weighs 590 g. Most are black with chrome trim, but some are all black.It is not compatible with Canons later Canon EF lens mount, though adapters made by independent manufacturers can be found. In 1979, Canon introduced the New FD series of lenses that rotate the whole outer lens barrel to lock. The inner lens barrel remains stationary, and thus the signal levers and pins still do not rotate. During the late 1970s, there were over 50 Canon FD lenses available for purchase. The later Power winder A2 is also compatible, but the Motor Drive MA is not.It supports either manual exposure control or shutter priority auto exposure. The exposure control system consists of a needle pointing along a vertical fstop scale on the right side of the viewfinder to indicate the readings of the builtin centerweighted with a silicon photocell. The viewfinder used by the AE1 is Canons standard split image rangefinder with microprism collar focusing aids.The 1970s and 1980s were an era of intense competition between the major Japanese SLR brands Canon, Nikon, Minolta, Pentax and Olympus. Between 1975 and 1985, there was a dramatic departure from heavy allmetal manual mechanical camera bodies to much more compact bodies with integrated circuit IC electronic automation. In addition, due to rapid advances in electronics, the brands leapfrogged each other with successively more automated models.While Canons easily led in the amateur compact fixedlens market where did not compete, Canon SLRs didnt have the professional features of the topend Nikon SLRs. Nikon, with its solid reputation for quality of material and workmanship, held a stranglehold on the prestigious professional SLR market that competitors could not break.The other members of the Aseries were the AT1 released 1977, A1 1978, AV1 1979, AE1 Program 1981 and AL1 1982.

They all used the same compact aluminum alloy chassis, but with different feature levels and outer cosmetic plastic top panel. By sharing most major components, including an inexpensive horizontal clothcurtain shutter, viewfinder information display, and autoflash control, Canon further reduced costs and could undercut the price of the more expensive SLRs then on the market.Canon went to great effort to disguise the use of plastic the injectionmolded acrylonitrilebutadienestyrene ABS for the top panel finished with either satin chrome or black enameled to give the look and feel of metal. The bottom plate were made of brass and then finished with satin chrome or black enameled. Extensive use of electronics also allowed simpler modular internal construction instead of mechanical linkages. Five major and 25 minor internal modules reduced the individual parts count by over 300. Modular construction, in turn, allowed automated production lines in order to reduce cost.However, it was made to have relatively straightforward controls and automatic aperture for newcomers, with various manual controls and system accessories to appeal to more experienced photographers. The AE1 was the first SLR purchased by millions of amateur photographers, persuaded by its feature list and low price.The first generation electronically controlled 35 mm SLR Canon EF 1973 merged with the final generation rangefinder Canonet GIII QL17 1972. After decades of chasing Nikon for Japanese optical supremacy, Canon finally hit upon a formula for success high technology for ease of use, cheaper internal parts and electronics for lower price, and heavy advertising to get the message out. Despite outcries from traditionalist photographers who complained about an “excess” of automation ruining the art of photography, automation proved to be the only way to entice the amateur photographer.

Canons eventual abandonment of the FD lens mount for the EOS autofocus design also had an effect on prices for the AE1 on the used market.By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. This page requires Javascript. Modify your browsers settings to allow Javascript to execute. See your browsers documentation for specific instructions. Already have an account Sign In. EOS M and EOS R Full Frame mirrorless ranges deliver the power of DSLR in the body of a compact camera. Alternatively, you may wish to purchase a professionally printed and bound copy of your products user manual from Robert Scott Publishing. Cheques are accepted from overseas if drawn on a UK bank and in sterling pounds currency. The original booklet is supplied when available. However, in cases where booklets are now out of print, a photocopy can be supplied. The aforementioned company is an independent contractor. Used Very GoodShips with UPGRADE Canon 3570mm Zoom Lens, rather than the 50mm fixed. Everything is working as it should, NO shutter squeak, and the seals are good.Please try again.Please try again.Please choose a different delivery location.In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Register a free business account Please try your search again later.Really similar to canon AE1 when it comes settings. Uses 2 AAA batteries.I already own a digital camera too. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Please try again later. Jacob Lau 5.0 out of 5 stars. Credit John Wade Because of its name and the fact that it incorporated all the modes used individually in the other cameras, it might be assumed that the Canon A1 was the first, from which the others were derived. Not so.

The Canon AE1 was first, and it was an immediate success, with sales of more than 4,000,000 in its first five years. Like the other five Aseries cameras it also has a lot to offer to today’s film user. But in 1972, Olympus had set a new lighter, more compact style of SLR with the OM1. Other major manufacturers raced to compete, and the AE1 was Canon’s answer. Its design and production were revolutionary. This enabled Canon to produce a lighter, more complex design at an otherwise impossible price. This route was taken because it was easier to automate an electronic shutter than to produce an electronic system for mechanically adjusting apertures. Many photographers, however, understood the concept of shutter speeds more easily than the theory behind apertures. So the AE1 was planned as a shutter priority model, where the photographer sets the , then the automation sets the appropriate aperture. Credit John Wade Today’s equivalents can be found on Amazon. The downside is that the camera will not function without a battery. The upside is that the batteries last well. This turns on the throughthelens metering and a needle against a scale in the viewfinder indicates the automatically selected aperture. A splitimage rangefinder aids focusing, then the shutter release is pressed all the way to make the exposure. A shutter lock, delayed action and depth of field indication button complete the specification. Enter the Canon AV1, another AE1 lookalike, but this time without a shutter speed dial. Setting an aperture manually automatically sets the correct shutter speed in a stepless range, which is displayed on a scale in the viewfinder. In its place a circular indicator moves as apertures are adjusted to line up with a moving needle activated by the meter. When the two meet, correct exposure has been set, but the photographer is free to override it. It’s a shutterpriority AE1 with the addition of programmed automation.

Four further exposure modes include shutter priority, aperture priority, stoppeddown AE and manual. Both the shutter speeds and apertures are set by a thumbwheel on the front of the body. When set for shutter priority, speeds appear in a window beside the shutter release. Set for aperture priority, the scale in the window changes to show apertures. Three charge coupled devices CCDs receive a portion of the lens’s image via a pattern etched into the semisilvered reflex mirror. When the correct point of focus is identified as the spot where image contrast is at its peak, a message is passed to three lightemitting diodes LEDs at the base of the viewfinder. Red LED arrows tell the photographer which way to turn the focusing ring on the lens until a central green LED lights to indicate correct focus. The AL1 is the only Aseries camera to use AAA batteries. The FL lens left needs the lens to be stopped down before measuring exposure. Credit John Wade The company’s previous FL lenses, which date back to 1964, can also be used, but only in stoppeddown . With the arrival of the AV1 in 1979, the FD mount was changed to a more traditional twist and click bayonet. They range from a 7.5mm fisheye to a 1200mm supertelephoto. A vast range of lenses in the FD breechlock mount can be found from all the major independent makers too. Introduced in 1981 this was one of the earliest autofocus lenses. As the focusing mechanism is integral to the lens itself, the autofocus function can be used on any manualfocus Canon FD mount body. Accessories made to fit Aseries cameras include flashguns or Speedlites in Canon parlance, power winders, motor drives, macro and micro closeup devices, databacks, viewfinder adapters and even an underwater capsule. The stopdown lever will then operate the aperture. Learn more opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment.