canon t80 manual pdf

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Use the above address for a check, M.O. or cash. NOTE they only print in Black and White. I still accept donations to maintain this Camera Manual. The T series bodies, differed from the A series of whichThe cameras areIn addition to the builtin winder that perform filmThe earlier model, T70 of 1984 was a more futuristic modelthanIt was built with all the flexibility associated with a 35There were three specially produced,These lensesWhen it is used with the conventional FDThis free you fromTo take a photo, just select one of the five modes illustratedTo do this, you press down the AE mode selectorSecond, raise the camera to your eye,The five pictographsYoull find this mode quite advantageous for expansiveWhen you choose the T80s Shallow Focus mode, your chosen subject will be emphasized. To help makingmoreThe most obvious use for the T80sIt should beOthers Canon Auto Bellow Unit Manual; Canon Macro Photography Guide, Canon Slide Duplicator Manual, Canon Angle Finder Users Manual Canon Macro Photography Guide Canon FDEEwyn Foo, my nephew, who. The AF system uses a linear CCD array for TTL image contrast detection. The picturetaking mode can be selected with the pictographs on the external LCD panel. For metering and exposure control, TTL multiprogram AE and preset aperture AE with centerweighted averaging metering are provided. Lenses for autofocusing with the T80 were called AC lenses. These lenses had the FD mount and signal transmission capability.One Shot AF and continuous AF modes provided. AF locks during continuous shooting.Laser Matte with cross split prism rangefinder. Correct exposure, In program mode Correct exposure, camerashake warning, manual, and warnings. Picturetaking mode selected with pictograph on external LCD.Auto film advance with builtin motor. Continuous shooting at 0.7 fps. Finished book size is A5 148 x 210mm. 68 pages long. Our reprints are high quality, printed on 80gsm superwhite Canon paper on a Canon office copier.

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The pages are then spiral bound with a clear acetate front cover and red card back cover, held together with a strong white wire. Your manual will lay flat when open and will last for as long as your camera, with a little bit of care. Manuals over 400 pages long may be supplied as more than one book. It was introduced in April 1985 and discontinued in June 1986 and is part of the T series of FD mount cameras. It is not compatible with Canons later EOS system and its EFmount lenses. Three special lenses, designated AC, were produced specifically for the camera. Other FDmount lenses can also be used, but without autofocus capabilities.A linear CCD is used to detect contrast in the focus area. When this area has the maximum contrast, the lens is in focus. This is a similar mechanism to that used in compact digital cameras. When a manual focus lens is used, the camera provides focus assistance in exactly the same manner as the AL1.Trades off against a slow shutter speed. Useful for portraiture, to reduce background distractions. Useful for sports, wildlife, children etc. Tends to prefer reasonably quick shutter speeds for minimal blurring. This leaves the top of the camera very clean, since there is no advance lever or rewind knob. Film loading is automatic; the user only has to align the film leader with an orange mark and close the back, and the camera loads and advances the film automatically. Indicators on the top LCD display the status of loading, winding and rewinding. The motor, and the cameras other functions including the focusing motor in the lens, are powered by 4 AAA batteries housed in the base of the camera.Each lens contains a motor to focus, unlike the bodyintegral AF system pioneered by . All are readily identifiable by a boxy area on the upper left viewed from the camera containing the motor, and a red ring around the front lens element.

The lenses areThe autofocus function does not work on any other camera, although they can be used as manualfocus FD lenses. However they lack aperture rings, so they are only useful on FD camera bodies that could control the aperture from the body. This was introduced in 1981, and uses a similar autofocus system to the T80s lenses, with an integral autofocus motor. The lens has a selfcontained autofocus system that does not require autofocus electronics in the camera body.Like the similar back available for the T90, it supports date stamping of images, alphanumeric coding of images, time exposures and timelapse interval exposure.By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The eyelevel pentaprism uses a matte field with a split image rangefinder screen.A electronic selftimer is builtin with a 10 sec.The film advance is motor driven and capable of up to 0.7 fps. Rewind is also motor driven with a audible beep when completed. It is powered by four AAA battery. A battery check option is also available. Something went wrong. This is especially true for vintage cameras that have had more than one owner. If you are a camera collector, it will increase the value of the camera if you can obtain the original documentation. Its also great to read the original instructions for the camera so you can get the best use out of it. Features Manuals for Canon cameras offer a comprehensive guide on how to get the most out of your camera. With canon cameras having many features and shortcuts, a manual will help you to master the many intricate operations of your camera. Canon camera manuals and guides are easy to follow so you can look up the information you need quickly and easily. Format Most original instruction manuals and guides come in book form in various conditions. If youre a collector, there may be manuals available in mint condition though many have some creasing and signs of use depending on how well theyve been kept.

Reproduction manuals are also available, copied from the original booklet. These are often comb bound for ease of use. With a clear durable front cover, these types of manuals are professional looking and easy to keep in good condition. There are some books available that have general advice for using Canon cameras. This type of instruction manual might be useful if you have more than one Canon camera and are interested in how Canon cameras typically work. Compatibility Check the make and model of your Canon camera so you can find the exact manual you need. Each Canon camera is unique and would have had specific documentation in the box at the time of purchase. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured powered by Verisign. The display shows ISO400 and wont change.If the shutter release is pressed it clicks once, its as though the cpu is confused.The only other indicator that works is the battery check accompanied by a series of clicks and it also doesnt wind the film on. It was suggested that a dirty mirror box magnet might be the culpret, but I am not sure. It also seems likely that the lithium backup battery might be dead. Anyone have any suggestions. Id like to save this nice camera from the trash bin, but at 20 years old, its not worth too much effort. Thanks, Nathan I would open the bottom and flood clean with 90% isoptopyl alcohol to see if debris could be removed. 90% of the time this will work. Any clues After digging around a bit more I found the battery hidden up next to the flash socket and checked it, and it was good. Then I wnet back to the mirror box and poked around, tweaked and cleaned until I managed to free whatever was stuck. The camera came alive. I put in a new roll and it loaded right up and appears to work beautifully. Now Im off to shoot some film! Thanks all. Nathan Do not know about the T80, but the Li battery is situated over the prism in the T90.

Looking at the diagram of the main flex in the T80, it could be in similar position. If T80 behaves in similar fashion to T90, then pressing battery test button will produce series of soft clicks. As you have probably found out, lithium cell is purely for the memory function and does not prevent camera from operating normally. Work through this in a logical manner and clean the poles of the electromagnetic switches first.The manual clearly indicates any other switch contacts that may need cleaning. Be very careful if you move the flexi circuit, they can be very fragile. If the camera still does not function you will have to check the given data with a digital voltmeter. But I did neglect to add that batteries must be removed first. My Bad. Remember liquids in and of themselves are no enemy to deactivated electronic components. Ya just gotta dry em. THOUROUGHLY. Thats why the isopropyl. A non heated blower will help too. Dont inhale the fumes. Will check and see where I got it from. Sorry about that, I do not remember buying it and that site is the only freebie I use. Lance, I know what you are saying about electronic components. However my work experience in the field of forensics and accident investigation does not allow me to be so positive. Anyway in the T series I am not particularly worried about the electronic circuits, it is the mechanical bits and the removal of lubricants that are of concern. You cannot control where the solvent goes in flood cleaning. It wicks all over the place due to capillary action and not only destroys the lube but also attacks the adhesive tape and sealant that seems to abound in these cameras. Also you can flush out small pieces of broken mechanism, which if not examined and identified leads to further trouble. There is no doubt it works but I would rather find out exactly what was causng the jam. I would try repairing it if I can get the circuit is it in the T80 Service Manual.

Where did you download your copy The title page looks official Canon. First time I have really looked at it. I do not have a T80 and have never had to repair same, so manual was just an addition to library so to speak. Parts nos for T70 and T90 are CH30016000 and CH30021000 respectively. As I still use T90s, I have about 15 parts bodies each purchased with different known problems thus I have a very good supply of spares. Will dig out a converter and look at what is on the chip. Many of the chip sets are custom jobs, but I wonder about a DCDC converter. I can see it being custom to Canon but not for individual models in series. Still may be talking crap. Have a friend who has forgotten more on this subject than I ever knew. Ill dump a T70 and a T90 on him and let him compare the two converters see if they have similar characteristics. As to where I got this manual, I have to confess I cannot recall. It is a hard copy and I initially thought that it was from pdf that I had downloaded not so, no sign of original download. I have purchased a lot of hard copy manuals from Old Timer Cameras. As I am trying to collect all their Canon FD repair manuals, I tend to buy a number every so often. Might have come from OTC; I am just working down their list and sometimes titles are not in correct order. Will check their site later and see what is what. They have such a large quantity of microfiche that pages do get missed or updates are not included. Well if you dont ask, youll never know. So keep fingers crossed. Glenn. I suspect the T80 is more like the T70 the T90 seems more complex. I have not identified the DCDC conveter function in the T90 but note that neither manual shows details of module circuits, only an overall block diagram and pictures of the flexible wiring assemblies. Apparently repairs are expected to be carried out by replacing modules rather than components in a module. Nevertheless I have made some progress.

I got the DCDC conveter PCB from the repair shop and checked it out and it seems to be working OK. It has a TDK Ref. No. PCU211E. I started tracing out the circuit for the converter but now believe there is no need to repair it. I will return it and ask the tech to check it in the camera again. Contact your discussion moderator for more information. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Both seem in good condition but I know buggerall about either. It appears to be auto everything. Honest opinions required please, dont be shy. TBH, Ive no real use for it I was given it by a bloke who was rewiring our house and in all probability Ill end up giving it away, but Im curious all the same. Regards, B.There are very few setting you can make yourself. If yo do not have fast lenses then by all means use fast film. This will allow the camera to use a high enough shutter speed that you wont get blurred images. The T80 is capable of good results with the right lens and in the right lighting conditions. Mostly the T80 is interesting historically. In 1985 Minolta introduced the Maxxum 7000. This was the first practial and mass produced auto focus SLR. Minolta changed its lens mount when the camera came out but used the screw driver method for focusing the lenses. The motor in the camera turned a crew driver which engaged a slot in the lens. Gears inside the lens caused the elements to move back and forth. The N2020 and Pentax SF1 also used the screw driver method. In the case of Nikon and Pentax, this allowed compatibility between older manual focus lenses and the new AF bodies. Canon had a different idea. Canon thought the focusing motor should be in each lens. A smaller lens would need a smaller motor and a larger lens would get a larger motor. This setup was first used by Canon in the T80. The T80 retained the Canon FD mount but the focusing motor was in the lens assembly.

When the Canon EOS 620 and 650 models were introduced in 1986 they continued to use this concept. Many years later Nikon started to switch over its AF lenses so they had focusing motors in each one, just like Canon. The focusing motors in the EOS cameras were more advanced but the concept goes back to the T80.I never used it, but it was reported in its time to have a fiddly AF, and the rest of the features was just average. Anyway, it should carry all FD lenses, in which you can find gems.User settings are minimal and pretty useless but I found that to be a plus. I didnt get lost in the technicalities of the camera and just set it on program and concentrated on composition.Listening to the AF grind and hunt is always amusing. People see the big red ring on the lens and think its some new L glass. OTOH, the lenses are decent and the camera takes fine pictures. Ill bet that if you threw some Ektar 100 in it, the results would surprise you. The controls and program modes are selfexplanatory. The one unique feature is the small button on the front, just left of the lens mount. Pushing the button adds 1.5 stops I think to the exposure, supposedly useful for shooting backlit subjects. Ive got a pdf of the manual holler if you cant find it online. Canonfd.com seems to have conked out. Go shoot the thing! The mighty Bronicasaurus can smell your fear.By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. If you have a Photrio account, please log in and select stay logged in to prevent recurrence of this notice.We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Sometimes you have to fall so you can learn to get back up according to Batmans father, anyway. So it is 1985.

Point and Shoot 35mm AF cameras are popping out all over the place, having come on the scene in the late 70s. Wikipedia has more on these times at. I have already reported on a number of the more developed early AF cameras Minolta Maxxum 7000 1985 Canon EOS 650 1986 Canon EOS 620 1986 Nikon N2020 F501 outside North America 1986 Yashica 230F 1987 Pentax SF1 SFX outside USA 1987 Canon EOS 630 1989 Nikon N8008s AF F801s outside North America 1991 Nikon F80D N80QD in USA 2000 Suddenly, the goiter lenses not only looked unstylish, but the simple fact was the Minolta Maxxum was better than the competition in speed and accuracy of focus and general operation. So far, in the list above, my reports have stuck to the AF camera responses to the Maxxum series. This is the first moreorless perMaxxum AF camera I have looked at. Only Canon elected to stay with inlens AF motors. In the long run, this seems to have worked out better in general the more electronic something like this is, the more reliable and sophisticated it can be made. Some screwy little screw, after all, was not very hip. Although the screwdrive cameras were able to achieve remarkable speeds with the mechanical solution, now even Nikon is abandoning the screw. CORE OF THE T80 SYSTEM THE LENSES So just what is involved with the Canon T80. Like the Nikon F3AF, Canon tried to maintain compatibility with their existing FDnew bayonet system used on the Aseries and the Tseries. The Canon AC lenses will mount on FD bodies. The AC 50mm lens has only an inch or so of exposed manual focus ring, so cannot be used to good effect, but an AC lens with a continuous small and inconvenient focus ring like the AC 70210mm could be used if, for some peculiar reason, you felt so inclined. Here is the semisilvered pattern on the T80 mirror and the electronic contacts.

However, in our universe, Canon was as stubborn as they have often proved to be, and developed the FD camera system to near perfection with the T90 and invented new, small and compact inlens motors of the sort becoming ubiquitous today. Although the T80 is just a plastic, squaredoff version, sort of, of an Aseries Canon, by the T90 the socalled jellomold influence of the designer Colani was being seen . Canon also decided that the hole in the camera for the lens was just too damn small for everything being attached, so dies irae they abandoned FDn and introduced a whole new camera system, EOS Electro Optical System . There are FD users to this day and others now using as a result of this change. Anyway, take the new lens focus motors, and the other Electro Optical System features, the new mount, and the rest of the features from the T90, and you have the look, feel, and functionality of todays Canon EOS line. The T80 turned out not to be a dead end so much as a beloved, but handicapped, uncle. As I found out. As it points out there, an earlier focusassist camera AL1, 1982 formed some of the basis of the AF system using linear contrast with a linear CCD. One Shot AF and continuous AF modes provided. AF locks during continuous shooting. Viewfinder Fixed eyelevel pentaprism. 0.83x magnification, 92% vertical coverage, 93% horizontal coverage. Laser Matte with cross split prism rangefinder. Viewfinder Four LEDs and mask illumination. Correct exposure, In program mode Correct exposure, camerashake warning, manual, and warnings. Picturetaking mode selected with pictograph on external LCD. External LCD Program display, pictographs, film speed, film transport, battery check, frame counter, and other indications. Auto film advance with builtin motor. Continuous shooting at 0.7 fps. Film Rewind Power rewind with builtin motor.The film is Kodak Ultramax 400 glad I didnt throw in the Ektra 100, given the dark day.

Patience was required, but the end product was surprisingly good. The problem was not the accuracy of autofocus, but its speed. I cant imagine trying to use this camera and lens for sports or mobile wildlife photography.Remember, all of these are with the camera set for AF in the Program mode. What I was interested here was the early AF capability. It was gray at the cemetery too.Again, focus is as good as I could have done with my eyes. I should mention that there was a very nice focusing screen with even a rangefinder prism wedge in it so that it was easy to see when the AF had got it right.One last shot showing the ability of the tele at 200mm a roof detail against the gray sky of the oldest surviving cinematic emporium in town this was somehow overlooked in the multiple restylings it has had since it was built. Users of pointandshoot cameras with no desire to know an aperture or shutter speed from a hamburger will feel right at home. Picturegraphs on the top LCD panel indicate proper settings to give the user the most depth in sharpness, shallow depth to throw backgrounds out of focus, an action setting, a general setting and a variable setting when you would like to pan or show motion as motion.Nikon and Pentax, with much smaller throat diameters, have had no problem fitting all the electronics in, even while preserving legacy mechanical connections. My guess which is all it is, a guess is that Canon really wanted to get away from all the old mechanical linkages as well as the breechlock mount which was still a breechlock at its core even if Canon had made it seem more bayonetlike by making the entire outer barrel of the New FD lenses serve as the breechlock ring. Like Nikon and Minolta, Canon had a lens mount that dated back to the late 1950s, long before computer technology began to invade cameras.

Connections for things like automatic aperture stopdown, open metering, and shutterpriority aperture selection were implemented with mechanical links that by the mid1980s looked rather primitive. All the camera companies that had invested in this technology had to consider carefully whether to retain full backward compatibility or to start afresh to design a fullyelectronic system. Nikon, a traditionally conservative company, which as the market leader had a lot to lose from irritating their existing customers, chose to favor compatibility, and went with a clunkier solution that was more expensive to manufacture more moving parts and had comparatively clunky AF performance. Canon and Minolta, both of whom had a history of using cuttingedge technology to challenge Nikons dominance, went allout for the sexiest, most computerized, least mechanical camera systems they could devise. Nikon themselves began switching to inlens motors with the introduction of AFS lenses in 1992, and over the years has gradually deemphasized the role of mechanical cameratolens linkages. I dont know why the EF mount has such a huge throat diameter, but I would guess that it has less to do with making room for electronics than with providing better physical support for longer, heavier lenses. It is sometimes claimed that the larger throat enables Canon to make superfast lenses, but Im pretty sure this is not true, or at least not the reason for the wide throat. Industrial design is a matter of taste, of course. I know you like the look of the Canon Tseries cameras, but I personally find them hideous. The T90 is the best of a bad lot in that regard. My vote for prettiest Canon SLRs goes to the Aseries.I was in my late teens and early 20s during the 80s, and even at the time I found the era rather appalling in many ways.

Looking back, it seems to me that things from the 80s specifically from about 1983 to 1990 or so seems more dated and more tied to their time than just about anything else from the 20th century. It was very 80s for Canon to throw away their existing product line and go allelectronic for the EOS system, which is to say that it was a very smart marketing decision to make at that time. Nikon definitely started looking a bit oldfogeyish around then. On the one hand, you can still use a 1977 AI Nikkor lens on a 2012 Nikon D800, but on the other hand, only an old fogey which by 80s standards means anyone not obsessed with new technology for its own sake would want to.We had not planned to stock the T80, but one of our customers wanted one so we ordered one with the zoom and flash. Thanks for posting.Whats more, I can use all my extensive library of Nikkor NONAI 19591977 lenses on my Canons, not to mention that every EF lens made still works on all Canons. But whos counting, right Its one of the most misunderstood and unfairly criticized cameras around. The popular myth is that, when Minolta introduced the Maxxum a few months after the T80, Canon went into a panic, withdrew the T80, went back to the drawing board, and then introduced the EOS 650 and EF lens mount in 1987. After Canon introduced the last of its FL mount SLRs in the mid1960s, they began work on the FD mount. Canon has stated that they spent at least five years developing the F1 and its accessories. The FD mount, introduced in 1971 and discontinued around 1992, remained functionally unchanged during this period. Any FD lens is fully operational on any FD body with no modifications. Further, any FD lens is fully functional on any FL body with no modifications. The first generation chrome nose FD lenses will work properly in any AE mode, while the last FDn lens made will provide shutter priority AE on an original F1 with the Servo EE Finder.

The Canon EOS 650 and EF mount lenses were introduced and available in 1987. This means that all of the needed processes and tooling were in place when production began in late 1986. As JDM noted, any EF lens will work on any EOS body, analog or digital, with no modifications. The image stabilization on my EF lenses work perfectly on my EOS 650 body. Clearly, Canons design and engineering of its autofocus SLRs and EF mount lenses were essentially complete by the time the Minolta Maxxum appeared. It seems to me that Canon designed and engineered their cameras for long term stability and future development before starting production. To presume that the T80 was a misstep doesnt ring true. The Canon Pellix showed they could think outside the box. The EF led to the subsequent generation of electronic AE cameras. The AL1 provided basic AE and focus assistance to amateurs who wanted the higher quality and flexibility of an SLR, but who were intimidated by them. As the replacement for the AL1, the T80 was intended to appeal to these same advanced amateurs, adding auto focus, multiple programmed AE modes, and fully motorized film transport to the mix. It also pioneered the user interface that was roundly criticized at the dawn of the AF SLR era but which ultimately became the norm. Most critics of the T80 have probably never seen one in the flesh, let alone used one. Having owned and used one extensively since 1989, I can state that it has been my favorite FD camera for snapshots and quick shooting. Its light, comfortable and has been totally reliable.Some users have used AC lenses successfully on other Canon FD bodies since they all have a manual focus override, though Ive never even considered doing this. One important thing to keep in mind is that AC lenses are AEonly lenses.

This means that the pin on the lens mount that switches the camera body into AE mode is fully and permanently extended, and that you should never try to mount an AC lens on a Canon SLR that does not support AE. If you try, youll break the pin. Further, even though an AC lens can be mounted to FD bodies with only aperture priority AE AV1, AL1, they will not meter properly since the lens must be set to a specific aperture. In any case, mounting an AC lens on anything but a T80 will be at your own risk.I realize these are personal preferences. However, it irks me when the implication is made that metal has been replaced with simple and cheap plastics. A review of the Canon AE1 appears in the May 1977 issue of Popular Photography. In his stripdown report, Norman Goldberg states As for the lens mount parts, Canons engineers told me they used a mix of polycarbonate and glass fibers thats 70 percent glass by weight. The trade off is that, while plastic composites can chip or crack, they dont dent or deform like metal. My T80s body has held up extremely well.The differences there were their abandonment of inlens motors as though they were a dead skunk. I am quite sure that Canon did not intend that the camera would be a misstep, but the success of inlens AF was dependent on the development of small AF motors. The system on the T80 is usable, if one makes allowances for the Even the Maxxum 7000 which is why its kind prevailed is a usable AF system by standards not attuned to sports photography. Mind, I like the T80 for its bravery but Id take a Aseries camera I will be doing a report soon on a reanimated A1 or more particularly a T90 as my first choice for FDmount shooting. As Gordon points out, the plastic issue is a red herring. These are not your grandfathers plastic.I look at it as an AL1 with significantly enhanced features. What other camera of its era had focus confirmation with any lens that you could attach.