• CULINARY HISTORIANS OF NEW YORK• Volume 15, No. 1 Fall 2001 the : English History Wrapped in Cloth By Diana Pittet my education about cheese from the British Isles should start with ITHOUT a doubt, Cheshire. WCheshire was the first To my disappointment and cheese I wanted to sample on my embarrassment, I didn’t love the first day of work at Neal’s Yard dry and orange-tinted cheese at Dairy, the London cheese shop first bite. Not even after several known for its devotion to aging, tastings and lunches while working promoting, and selling of farm- at the Dairy did I fall in love with house from the British this mild, subtle, slightly acidic Isles. cheese, which many people — I had made many trips to customers, fellow cheesemongers, , but I was unfamiliar with and judges of fine cheeses — the oldest-named English cheese. consider to be the best cheese sold I had also been intrigued by Steven at the shop. I would much rather Jenkins’ Cheese Primer description have creamy, assertive blue or wash of Cheshire — its having “a sort of rind cheese from Ireland. essential cheesiness.’’ So I felt that Continued on page 4 Adelaide: Expanding the Culinary History Universe

By Andrew F. Smith but today, a significant culinary History of Food and Drink, sched- history work is released almost uled for July 2-4, 2001. I didn’t URING the past 20 years, weekly. And so many conferences even bother to check my calendar Dculinary history has expanded are being held around the world — — I e-mailed him back with my from a few isolated scholars doing the most famous being the Oxford acceptance. Not only had I always their own thing to an eclectic Symposium on Food and Cookery wanted to visit Australia and some- global field that is peopled by aca- and the Leeds Symposium on Food how had never succeeded, but I demics and independent scholars; and Society — that I am now had always wanted to learn more librarians and museum profession- unable to attend them all. about the state of culinary history als; popular writers and just plain However, unexpectedly I in Australia. old foodies interested in history. received an e-mail from Dr. Lynn Of course, I was aware of the Ten years ago, I could truth- Martin inviting me to speak at the works of several Australian culinary fully say that I had read most of the Adelaide University’s Second Inter- historians, including Michael books related to culinary history, national Conference on the Continued on page 3 CHNY Steering Committee Letter From the Chair 2001-2002 Our cocktail party cum annual to co-edit the newsletter with Chairperson: Phyllis Isaacson meeting was a rousing success at Helen Brody. Kathleen, who is a Vice-Chairperson: Stephen C-3. The food provided by mem- deputy sports editor at The New Schmidt ber-owner Judy Paul was clearly York Times, joined CHNY two Secretary: Diane Klages greeted with considerable enthusi- years ago. She will be coordinating Treasurer: Lee Coleman asm and encouraged a good give and editing the newsletter’s feature Members-at-Large: and take of ideas and stimulating articles and news about Web sites. conversation. As for business, the A native Texan, who is interested in Wendy Clapp-Shapiro, 2001-2002 Steering Committee all culinary things Texas and Tex- Membership slate (shown at left) was unani- Mex, lives in Forest Hills, Queens, Helen Studley, Programs mously approved. with her husband “and his train John W. R. Jenkins, Publicity I would particularly like to set.” Helen will continue to gather thank retiring secretary, Lois member news, regional events cal- CHNY Information Hotline: O’Wyatt, for doing a timely and endars, and book reviews in (212) 501-3738 outstanding job. addition to coordinating the laying At its July meeting the Steering out, printing, and mailing. Karen CHNY Newsletter Committee unanimously agreed Berman has agreed to continue as Co-Editors: that a $1,000 donation should be copy editor. Kathleen and Helen Helen Brody made to a culinary history project encourage submissions for future Kathleen McElroy or cause each year. It was decided editions. Their goal is to make the Copy Editor: Karen Berman that the first donation, for the year publication a valuable culinary his- 2001, will be to the Culinary tory resource for the organization’s Please send/e-mail member Collection of the New York Public members. news, book reviews, events Library. Finally, the events of Septem- calendars to: Future applications for the ber 11th have greatly intensified Helen Brody annual stipend should be made in the financial difficulties of New PO Box 923 writing, and include background York restaurants already struggling 19 Trillium Lane information, to Stephen Schmidt, with the downturn in the economy. 234 East 87th Street, #5A, New Keeping in mind that we are a culi- Grantham, NH 03753 York, NY 10128. Deadline for nary organization, I hope all our [email protected] applications is June 15, 2002. The members will energetically patron- (603)863-5299 Steering Committee will award the ize their favorite establishments to (603)863-8943 Fax money at its summer meeting in aid in assuring their survival. July and formally announce it at Papers demonstrating serious the first fall meeting. culinary history research will be Kathleen McElroy has agreed considered for inclusion in issues of the CHNY newsletters. Please contact Kathleen McElroy, newsletter co-editor, MEMBERSHIPS ARE DUE !!! at (718) 459-0582 or [email protected]. Please send check, made payable to CHNY, with renewal form to Matriculating students of culi- Wendy Clapp-Shapiro at her NEW address: nary history or related topics are invited to contribute. PMB #133 2565 Broadway New York, NY 10025-5657

2 Adelaide, from page 1 were encouraged to hold their sec- Maryland, and Ludington is a ond conference this past summer. graduate student at Columbia Uni- Symons and Barbara Santich. About 150 participants were in versity. My keynote presentation Symons’s One Continuous Picnic: A attendance, an eclectic group span- was “Toward a Conceptualization History of Eating in Australia (1982) ning the spectrum from scholars of Culinary History.” was the first major culinary history and journalists with international Abstracts from the conference of the continent, and his most reputations to local farmers and can be obtained from Greta Larsen recent book, History of Cooks and restaurant owners. The formal and at [email protected], Cooking (2000), pulls together informal conversations throughout and the complete papers are sched- diverse European sources in dis- the conference were lively and uled for publication by the cussing the early role that cooks stimulating, while the atmosphere Research Centre. Membership is played in the Renaissance. Santich’s was amiable and friendly. But most free, with donations greatly appre- Original Mediterranean Cuisine: impressive were approximately 30 ciated. For more information about Medieval Recipes for Today (1995), is papers presented by scholars from the Research Centre and its pro- an excellent blend of history with Australia, Canada, New Zealand, grams, e-mail Dr. A. Ian Martin at wonderfully updated recipes. Norway, Spain, the United King- [email protected] or I was also aware that the dom, and the United States. write to him at the Research Cen- History Department at Adelaide As expected, some papers fo- tre for the History of Food and University had launched a Re- cused solely on Australia and in Drink, Department of History, search Centre for the History of particular South Australia, where Adelaide University, Adelaide, Food and Drink in 1997 and is cur- Adelaide is located. Through the South Australia 5005. rently developing a master’s degree papers, I found an interesting par- If American culinary historians in gastronomy. Because this is the allel with American culinary think about Australian gastronomy, only university that I know of that history: Because European settlers it’s probably along the lines of has a center and academic program brought their foodways with them drinking Foster’s beer and “putting specifically on culinary history, I to Australia, today’s Australian another shrimp on the barbie.’’ wanted to know more about it. cookery is an amalgam of Euro- Much to my surprise, I found that What I uncovered was impres- pean, Asian, and indigenous Foster’s beer is not particularly sive. The purpose of the Research culinary practices. Papers in this popular with Australians, who also Centre is to promote research into group included Noris Ioannou’s use the word “prawns,” not shrimp. the history of food and drink in “Greek Cypriot Cuisine and Cul- There is so much more to Austra- Australia and throughout the tural Practices in Australia’’ and lian food and drink than our world. They are concerned with Catherine Murphy’s “Adelaide stereotypes suggest, and I’m de- food from production to consump- Central Market: Raw Ingredients lighted to report that culinary tion in all of its aspects: historical, of Cultural Digestion.” history is alive and well in the land political, economic, social and The majority of the presenta- down under. And the good news is environmental. The Research Cen- tions, however, dealt with the that the Research Centre plans on tre publishes a newsletter and history of food and drink around sponsoring another international maintains a Web site the world, including papers on conference in two years. (www.arts.adelaide.edu.au/ women and food, and food in film. CentreFoodDrink), which includes Chronologically, the papers swept Andrew F. Smith teaches culinary an impressive array of information from ancient Greece and Rome to history at the New School. He is the about culinary history events, the present. American presenta- author of twelve books, including ones tours, and publications from tions included Fred Czarra’s on the history of tomatoes, ketchup, around the world. “History of Black Pepper,” and soup, popcorn, and peanuts. He is cur- In 1999, the Research Centre Chad Ludington’s “A Good and rently writing a culinary history of sponsored its first international Most ParticularTaste: The Rise the turkey and he was just selected as conference of the history of food and Meaning of Luxury Claret in editor-in-chief of the Oxford Ency- and drink. It was so well attended England, 1702-1730s.’’ Czarra is a clopedia on American Food and and well received, the researchers culinary historian who hails from Drink.

3 Photo: Scot K. Meyer Cheshire Cheese, from page 1 Cheshire’s honest taste of Yet I still liked sampling cheese reveals its Cheshire, even on a daily basis past and its tradi- with my customers, because it tion. Evident are tasted of England and history. its helpful function No other cheese seems quite as before refrigera- English. Though Cheshire is simi- tion, its long lar in appearance to Cheddar and history of being a double Gloucester, it can’t be put cow’s milk cheese in any category. It is dry and crum- when most early bly and doesn’t ooze or smell when English cheeses left out too long at room tempera- were made of ewe’s ture. It is the perfect companion milk, its for toast and tastes even better improvements by Cheshire cheese wrapped in cloth. melted on buttered toast in the the arrival of the technologically ad- And although the Cheshire form of the famous British sand- vanced and cheese-loving Romans Cheese Federation had worked wich, Welsh rabbit. It goes down in the 1st century AD. Then came hard to codify and implement food smoothly with beer and doesn’t beg modern production on 2,000 farms grading and standards in the 1920s, for a big wine. It is a complex in the North West, its auction at these standards had little impor- cheese but not very complicated. large, regional fairs, and its travels tance when World War II broke Cheshire tastes of a specific re- by canal up to Liverpool and down out. During rationing, which lasted gion of England, the North West, to London to reach all Cheshire from 1940 to 1954, cheese was dis- and more specifically of the county cheese lovers. A contemporary tes- tributed with no consideration to of Cheshire and its two neighbor- tament to its enduring popularity is its grade or quality. As a result, ing counties, and a London pub and restaurant called consumers’ knowledge of and taste Staffordshire. Drained by the River the Old Cheshire Cheese, rebuilt in for fine English cheese essentially Dee, the countryside has a high 1667 after the Great Fire and still disappeared. concentration of underlying rock frequented today. By the 1950s, the English appe- salt in the soil that gives the milk The flavor of Cheshire today tite for good cheese was chiefly of its cows a slightly saline flavor. does not betray its relatively recent satisfied by the fancy foreign This delicate flavor is present only years of jeopardy, when it looked as cheeses that came into the country in the farmhouse version of the though all farmhouse cheeses in free of control after the war. Their cheese, a genuine product of the Britain were going to be replaced choice was understandable — the land, and is not found in generic by factory cheeses. The decline MMB had resorted to building fac- factory-made cheeses that do noth- began during World War I, when tories to make cheese because of ing to honor Cheshire’s origins and an unpredictable supply of milk the milk surplus. Those still com- history. was coupled with a diminished mitted to making farmhouse What is even more intriguing number of men to make the cheeses found it nearly impossible about Cheshire is its history. It is cheese. to compete with mass production. the oldest known English cheese, In 1933, the Milk Marketing Very few English farmhouse cheeses dating back to at least the Board (MMB) was formed to con- and even fewer producers of Domesday Book of the 11th cen- trol the overabundance of liquid Cheshire, once one of the most tury and most likely further back to milk. To help cheese makers, the widely made cheeses in the country, the Romans and perhaps even ear- MMB bought their milk and then were left. The age of generic, lier to the first peoples of England, sold it back to them at a lower precut, plastic-wrapped cheese had who valued cheese as an efficient prices as a way to allay the cost of begun. and tasty way of storing and trans- making cheese. Throughout the What encouraged the reintro- porting surplus milk without transaction the milk stayed on the duction of farmhouse cheeses were spoiling it. farm. successful campaigns in the 1970s

4 to reintroduce real bread and real its quality grading. Because ale into England. Cheesemakers Appleby’s Cheshire continues the followed with their own promo- long tradition of farmhouse WEBSITES OF tion, and as a result farmhouse cheeses, I happily offered tastings cheese gained prominence and of it to customers. I also affection- CULINARY protection. Still, today only a ately rubbed clean the outer cloth handful of people take the trouble and flipped the whole cheeses over to keep the tasty tradition of farm- once a week to ensure that they INTEREST house cheese alive. aged properly. In this way custom- But at least farmhouse cheese is ers could have a proper taste of selling well at such places as Neal’s farmhouse Cheshire and its history. www.arts.adelaide.edu.au/ Yard Dairy. The Cheshire sold CentreFoodDrink/ there, Mrs. Appleby’s Cheshire, A comprehensive guide, with links bears the true mark of a farmhouse Sources and Bibliography to aforementioned Adelaide con- cheese — it is wrapped in cloth. Foulkes, F. W. Hooked on Cheese. ference (see article on page 1). The cloth protects the cheese, usu- Shrewsbury: Shropshire Libraries, Note: this is its updated address, 1985. which no longer includes the word ally tall and slender and weighing Hickman, Trevor. The History of Stilton about 15 pounds, by allowing it to Cheese. Stroud: Alan Sutton Publish- “chomsky.” breathe and mature without drying ing Limited, 1995 out. Two other characteristics of Jenkins, Steven. Cheese Primer. New www.castellobanfi.com York: Workman Publishing, 1996. Wine site includes two histories: farmhouse cheese can be found on Rance, Patrick. The Great British the cloth: the date it was made, Cheese Book. London: Macmillan “The Gastronomic Persona of handwritten in red, and a stamp of London Limited, 1988. Christopher Columbus” and “Etruscan Origins of Tuscan Cuisine.”

www.campbellsoup.com/center/ history

www.teacouncil.co.uk From the British Tea Council, with looks at the origins of tea and Brit- ish tea-drinking customs.

www.pbm.com/~lindahl/ food.html A medieval and Renaissance food homepage.

www.foodbanks.com/ foodlink.htm#Culinary History Groups Links to other culinary history sites. Diana Pittet, a Latin teacher for eight years, spent three months working at Neal’s Yard Dairy last autumn. The daughter of English parents (and a holder of www.2020site.org/drinks a British passport), Pittet began her love of food while watching her father make Includes history of drinking. curries. In fact, after having consumed a copious amount of cheese in London, she went to India for three months to diversify her diet by eating South Indian food. Pittet is currently an editorial assistant for Classical World, an academic journal based at New York University, and lives in Atlantic Highlands, N.J.

5 Editor’s note: Watch for Annie’s CHNY upcoming program on MEMBER NEWS New York City foodways. Jeri Jackson is planning a culinary Susan Baldassano will be taking larger orders to receive a discount. tour of Charleston, South Caro- small groups (10-12 people) to For those members with cook- lina, to be “wrapped around” the Oaxaca, Mexico, and Sicily, Italy, in books in need of attention or Spoleto Festival next spring. She is February and May 2002 for protective clam shell boxes, Mindy, also researching the foodways of Culinary/Cultural Tours. head of the book conservation de- the Huguenots and their immigra- Information is at her website partment of the Watson Library at tion into the South-Eastern United www.tograndmothershousewego.com the Metropolitan Museum of Art, States. will accept private bookbinding, Karen Berman presented a day- restoration, and conservation Ben Kinmont, bookseller, has long program on “The World of projects. Her day time phone num- published his catalogue no. 4 of French Cooking” at the annual ber is (212) 650-2890. books in gastronomy, 1499-1999. sales meeting of FIS, the flavor Included is Kitchiner’s working manufacturer, held in Montreal, Paul J. Groncki toured Tuscany manuscript for his Apicius Quebec, Canada. She has recently for two weeks, eating, and drinking Redivivus, the first French book written articles on Portuguese food and hiking through some of its about beer, the first edition of and wine for Wine Enthusiast, on beautiful places with the best food Brillat-Savarin’s Physiologie du Gout Mexican flavors for Techno-Culinary he had ever tasted. Paul develops in original wrappers, and a wide News, artisan bread for Pastry Art dining market strategies for high selection of 19th century menus, & Design and on nutrient loss due net-worth markets. many of which are printed on silk. to prescription drugs for Natural Copies of the catalogue are available Pharmacy. Annie Hauck-Lawson served as for free to members by contacting foodways curator for the New York him at [email protected] John F. Carafoli, food stylist/ City program of the 2001 consultant and the author of Food Smithsonian Folklife Festival. Her Alexandra Leaf’s new book Van Photography and Styling, presented a responsibilities included identify- Gogh’s Table at the Auberge Ravoux , paper titled “The Meal: How to ing and documenting potential a cookbook/art book about the last Create a Sense of Style” at this participants whose foodways exhib- two months of Vincent Van Gogh’s year’s Oxford Symposium. The ited a slice of contemporary New life in Auvers, has just been pub- paper examined the role of the York life. Annie programmed more lished by Artisan. She continues to food stylist, illustrated the stylist’s than eighty presentations that took lecture to museum audiences work and analyzed the misconcep- place on the National Mall in around the country and to do culi- tions which have developed about Washington, D.C, from June 27 to nary programming for the 92nd food styling and concluded that July 8, 2001. The festival attracted Street Y. She teaches her French “style” is always an illusion and over one million visitors, many of culinary history course, “Consum- should be understood as artistic whom were transfixed with prepa- ing Passions: A Culinary History of expression. rations and stories of New York France,” at the New School where food life — the bialy, long-life she pioneered the teaching of food Mindell Dubansky’s book (see noodles, Coney Island fudge, history. Member Profile, page 7) can be smoked salmon, egg cream, purchased by sending a check to pierogi, and pickles, to name just a The Smithsonian Institution will 210 East 88th Street. Apt. 4D, few. In light of the tragic events be offering a culinary study tour \NY, NY 10128 or e-mail: that followed on September 11, it conducted by Matthew Lee and [email protected] was a particularly special opportu- his brother Ted in March 2002 to Price: $30 (includes shipping/han- nity to convey some of New York’s Charleston, South Carolina. dling); second copy with same precious food character to the Included will be lectures and panel order for $25. Contact her for world. discussions on the origins of Low

6 Country cuisine as well as more Presented near Asti, Italy, the prize Barry Popik has been putting food than a few great meals — including was awarded for her work in fur- etymologies on the American Dia- a pig picking and oyster roast on thering Piemontese cuisine and lect Society web site (ADS-L), at nearby Edisto Island. Call 877- wines in America. The criteria for www.americandialect.org for many EDU-TOUR for information or visit the prize reads that it "shall be years. Danish pastry, knish, bagel, www.smithsonianstudytours.org awarded to a recipient who has smoothie, Greek salad, hamburger, worked to uphold on a national submarine sandwich, hoagie, hero, Jacqueline Newman, editor-in- and international level, the history, French fries, chocolate chip cook- chief of Flavor and Fortune, a tradition, and flavors of Piemonte." ies, pecan pie, shoofly pie, pizza, quarterly magazine about the The ceremony at Villa Badoglio gyro, beef Wellington, beef Stro- science and art of Chinese cuisine, was followed by a reception pre- ganoff, shashlik, kibbeh, tabbouleh, attended the Seventh International pared by the Italian Culinary and Bloody Mary are among hun- Symposium on Chinese Culture on Institute for Foreigners. Continued on page 8 November 11–12 in Tokyo. She was one of six main speakers. Oth- ers were: Billy Sy, Francoise Sabban, Kwang-ok Kim, Sidney MEMBER PROFILE Mintz, and Yunxiang Yan. Her topic was “Chinese Food —West- MINDELL DUBANSKY French salad, ern Ways: No Small Change for but rather a Eaters and Eateries.” After that, by Tracy Zimmer recipe for she left for Singapore to evaluate and Claire Hartten “Mindy’s Yam both Chinese and Nonya food and Red Potato there. From a historic standpoint, the Salad.” In one written contributions of people out- high-spirited an- Lucy Norris received her B.A. side of professional food-related tic, her parents present to her (concentration in Anthropolgy, Per- fields provide some of the clearest brother a butcher block from the formance and Food Studies) from insights concerning the role of food grocery store that they had owned New York University this past in our lives. Mindell (Mindy) and operated earlier in their mar- summer and has entered the Dubansky is one such author. riage, ecstatically announcing the master’s program in Food Studies, As head of the Watson block rightfully belongs to him also at NYU. Originally from Texas, Library’s book conservation “because he was conceived on it!” she has resided in New York for department at the Metropolitan Dubansky expresses the absurdity three years, and has done academic Museum of Art, she is a hands-on and awe that such a relic has been research in topics ranging from preservation librarian and conser- recovered. She finishes the chapter pickling, preservation and prepared- vator. She self-published the first with a recipe for “Sweet Pickles.” ness, soup kitchens in church printing of her book, written with The book distinguishes itself as spaces, sacred and secular American irony as well as candor, Guess Who a hybrid cookbook-memoir. It is feasts, to exo-cannibalism in Meso Died? Memories of Baltimore with technically a cookbook with good America. She is applying finishing Recipes (copyright 1999, second basic recipes from a working class touches to her year-long project of printing 2000), using grant money Jewish family in Baltimore, calling collecting oral histories and recipes from the Women’s Studio Work- for classic ingredients—cinnamon, for a book about pickling traditions shop, an organization funded in raisins, walnuts, chocolate, cab- worldwide. An article about Lucy part by the National Endowment bage. Interestingly, the recipes also appeared in the New York Times’ for the Arts and New York State call for the easy substitutes of post- City Section on Sunday, August 26. Council on the Arts. She did not WWII America, such as “Jello imagine it would go into a second Vanilla Instant Pudding,” Laura Maioglio, owner of printing, and yet it has. cornflakes, canned stewed toma- Barbetta Restaurant was awarded Her humor shows in chapters toes, and canned pineapple. the Guido Alciati International such as one titled “Salad Niçoise,” As a memoir, the book is an Prize for culinary achievement. which is not in fact the popular Continued on page 10

7 Member News, from page 7 Glenn Roberts, with a back- polenta, roasted corn grits and ground in restaurant concept parched Carolina Gold Rice flour. dreds of other food etymologies design consisting of matching his- The mill produces for retail and that he has researched. He is a toric foodways to architecture, is wholesale worldwide direct. He is consultant to the Oxford English also a certified organic grain pro- speaking at the Southern Foodways Dictionary, and his work is shared cessor and a value-added entity for Alliance Symposium at the Center with other dictionaries, such as the nine certified organic heirloom for the Study of Southern Culture Dictionary of American Regional grain farms specializing in antebel- at the University of Mississippi and English and Merriam-Webster. lum grain products of the at the Annual Conference of the Currently he is researching the Carolinas and Georgia: grits, corn Carolina Farm Stewardship Asso- Clementine Paddleford columns meal, polenta, Carolina Gold Rice, ciation. He can be reached at published in the New York Herald heirloom wheat biscuit flour, 18th [email protected] for further Tribune. He responds to food century parched grain products — information. queries by e-mail at roasted corn flour, roasted corn [email protected].

Give to a Friend: A CHNY Membership Application

At monthly meetings, the Culinary Historians of New York explore the historic, esoteric, and entertaining byways of food. These events are led by noted historians, authors, anthropologists, and food experts, many of whom are CHNY members. Membership benefits include advance notice of all events, a membership directory, and the CHNY Newsletter with culinary history articles, news of members, events, and book reviews. Individual – $40 per year Household – $60 per year Corporate – $125 per year Student/Senior – $20 per year Senior Household – $30 per year

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City: ______State ______ZIP ______

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Please make check payable to CHNY and send with completed form to: The Culinary Historians of New York, Wendy Clapp-Shapiro, PMB #133, 2565 Broadway, New York, NY 10025-5657.

8 REGIONAL CALENDAR

CLASSES BY JUDITH KRALL-RUSSO: NEW YORK UNIVERSITY DEPARTMENT FOOD AND TEA HISTORIAN. OF NUTRITION AND FOOD STUDIES To register, or for more information, contact Mimi Martin: 212-998-5588, [email protected] or visit the website: www.nyu.edu/education/nutrition. Professional Workshops November 13, “QuickBooks for the Restaurant Busi- ness II”, Adam Riess Food and Wine Demonstrations November 15, “Basics of Tasting Red Wines,” Mimi Thompson December 1, “The Science and Art of Spice Flavor- ing,” Susheela Uhl December 5, “Ethnic Flavor Principles,” Margaret Sat. Nov. 17, 1:30,“Teas From Many Lands”. South Happel Perry River Public Library, South River, NJ. Call: (732) January 10, “The Advanced Art of Wine Tasting,” 254-2844. Linda Lawry Sat. Dec. 1, 1:00, “The Apple — A History and Uses Raw Foods and Wild Foods During the Holiday Season” Lecture, decoration-craft November 14, “Eating Raw for Health,” Stephanie workshop. Metlar-Bodine House Museum, Piscataway, NJ. Call: Hara Durkin, (732) 463-8363. Bryn Sacks Extravagant Feasts from Around the Globe Sun. Dec. 2, 2:00, “Holiday Foods and Customs” December 11,“Traditional Indian Feasts,” Watchung Heritage Coalition. Location to be determined. Call: Katherine Ilchert, (908) 757-6895. Suvir Saran

Sat. Dec. 15, 3:00,“Victorian Holiday Tea with Tea Tasting”, Antique Castle, Plainfield, NJ. Call: Alia Souels, (908) 791-9700.

THE NEW SCHOOL: FOOD STUDIES AND CULINARY HISTORY To register, call: (212) 229-5690 For information, call: (212) 255-4141 Beg Mon., Jan. 7, 6 sessions, Mon. &Wed., “Dining as Art: A History of Aristocratic Manners and Setting the Grand Table,” Elizabeth Boudreau Beg Tues. Jan 8, 6 sessions, 7:45 –9:45, “Historical Approaches to Jewish Food,” Eve Jochnowitz Beg Tues. Jan 8, 2 sessions, 7:45-9:45, “We Eat With Our Eyes: A Visual Tour of the Last Fifty Years of Food,” Delores Custer

9 Member Profile, from page 8 grow up and grow older, maintain- ing traditions in the process. honest tribute to the parents who The stories and recipes do not IN THIS ISSUE fed her, clothed her, and finally always go together in theme but applauded her launch into adult rather come from the heart. The Cheshire Cheese ...... 1 life in New York. The book is ulti- story of her mother’s funeral is fol- mately about family and belonging. lowed by her mother’s own mondel It is one for both sociologists and bread recipe, double-baked and not Adelaide ...... 1 chefs a hundred years from now— unlike a biscotti. What could be family recipes are not meant to more comforting than mondel Letter from the Chair ...... 2 impress or push the boundaries of bread? See Member News (page 6) culinary invention, but they are the for ordering information and other essential ones that feed us as we notes about Mindy. Web Sites...... 5 UPCOMING PROGRAMS Member News...... 6 Member Profile ...... 7 December 18, “The Taste of Chocolate” — Maricel Presilla

January 17, “The New York Food Story” — Annie Hauck-Lawson Regional Calendar ...... 9

February 19, “Sauerkraut Yankee” — William Woys Weaver

•CULINARY HISTORIANS OF NEW YORK• C/O Wendy Clapp-Shapiro PMB #133, 2565 Broadway New York, NY 10025-5657

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