Level Two: Member 75 Cheese Profiles Berkswell
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LEVEL TWO: MEMBER 75 CHEESE PROFILES BERKSWELL MAKE: Hard HARD SUB MAKE: Cheeses which acidify in the mould POST-MAKE: Wrapped, Rolled or Processed WRAPPED, ROLLED OR Artificial: plastic coating PROCESSED SUB POST- MAKE CONTENTS TYPICAL AGE PROFILES: Four to six months APPROXIMATE SIZE(S): 3kg BRITISH 27 Cornish Yarg 53 Mascarpone GEOGRAPHICAL ORIGIN: Warwickshire, England PROTECTED STATUS: Brand 2 Berkswell FRENCH 54 Provolone SPECIES (AND BREED) Sheep. Friesan and Dorset 3 Caerphilly 28 Banon PDO 55 Ricotta OF MILKING ANIMAL: 4 Cerney Ash 29 Brie de Melun PDO 56 Taleggio PDO RAW/PASTEURISED MILK: Raw sheep’s milk 5 Cottage Cheese 30 Fourme du Cantal PDO IRELAND VEGETARIAN/ANIMAL Animal Rennet 6 Crowdie 31 Chaource PDO 57 Cashel Blue RENNET: 7 Dorset Blue Cheese PGI 32 Comté PDO 58 Coolea COMMONLY N/A (AKA Vinny) 33 Emmentaler AOP 59 Cooleeney ENCOUNTERED Double Gloucester VARIATIONS: 8 34 Fourme d’Ambert PDO 60 Durrus Traditional Ayrshire 9 35 Langres PDO 61 Killeen Dunlop PGI 36 Maroilles PDO 62 Smoked Gubbeen 10 Lanark Blue 37 Munster-Géromé PDO SPAIN THE STORY 11 Traditional Lancashire 38 Ossau-Iraty PDO 63 Cabrales PDO The Fletcher family are stalwarts of the artisan cheese to Manchego, but unlike the Spanish cheese is not 12 Lactobacillus helveticus renaissance in Britain after launching their distinctive pressed. Instead, the curd is shaped using kitchen cultured cheddar 39 Pont-l’Évêque PDO 64 Valdeón PGI sheep’s milk cheese in 1989. Berkswell is made with colanders, giving the final cheese its flying saucer 13 Lincolnshire Poacher 40 Pouligny-Saint-Pierre PDO 65 Queso Fresco raw milk from East Friesian and Dorset breed sheep shape. The cheese is coated in a breathable plastic film 14 Mayfield 41 Reblochon PDO 66 Torta del Casar PDO at Ram Hall, a 16th century farm in Berkswell close to and aged for around four to six months. Birmingham. It is often described as Britain’s answer 15 Red Leicester 42 Rocamadour PDO REST OF WORLD 16 Re-milled, flavoured 43 Saint-Marcellin PGI 67 Fromage de Herve PDO Cheddar 44 Saint-Nectaire PDO 68 Halloumi Rollright 17 45 Tomme de Savoie PGI 69 Brunost THE CHARACTER Shropshire Blue 18 46 Vacherin du Haut-Doubs 70 Serra da Estrella PDO The rind, which should not be eaten, develops PERFECT PARTNERS: 19 Stichelton or Mont d’Or PDO 71 Västerbottensost interesting moulds ranging in colour from brown and Berkswell can exhibit fruity flavours, which match Stinking Bishop 47 Valençay PDO 20 72 Bergkäse orange to red and yellow. The paste is firm, compact nicely with craft IPAs. Also good for grating over pasta, Swaledale Ewes’ Cheese PDO ITALIAN and sometimes slightly grainy, while flavours range like Pecorino. 21 73 Tête de Moine AOP from fruity to savoury, with a pleasing sharpness in 22 Teifi Natural 48 Asiago PDO 74 Monterey Jack mature cheeses. Sharpham Ticklemore Goat 49 Buratta 23 75 Rogue River Blue Tunworth 50 Castelmagno PDO 24 76 Stabilised Brie 25 Wensleydale flavoured 51 Fontina PDO 26 Wigmore 52 Grana Padano PDO 1 2 CAERPHILLY CERNEY ASH THE BASICS THE BASICS MAKE: Crumbly MAKE: Soft CRUMBLY SUB MAKE: Curd from a single day SOFT SUB MAKE: Predominantly Lactic set cheese for further ripening POST-MAKE: External mould /yeast ripened POST-MAKE: Wrapped, Rolled or Processed EXTERNAL MOULD/ Other mould ripened YEAST RIPENED WRAPPED, ROLLED Ash (charcoal) SUB POST-MAKE: OR PROCESSED SUB POST-MAKE: TYPICAL AGE PROFILES: One week to four months TYPICAL AGE PROFILES: One month APPROXIMATE SIZE(S): 4.5kg APPROXIMATE SIZE(S): 250g GEOGRAPHICAL ORIGIN: Caerphilly, Wales GEOGRAPHICAL ORIGIN: Gloucestershire, England PROTECTED STATUS: The name Caerphilly is not protected so can be made PROTECTED STATUS: Brand anywhere, however Traditional SPECIES (AND BREED) Goat Welsh Caerphilly has PGI status. OF MILKING ANIMAL: SPECIES (AND BREED) Cow RAW/PASTEURISED MILK: Raw goats’ milk OF MILKING ANIMAL: VEGETARIAN/ANIMAL Vegetarian RAW/PASTEURISED MILK: Examples of both depending RENNET: on cheesemaker COMMONLY Cerney Mini Ash - a 140g VEGETARIAN/ANIMAL Examples of both depending on ENCOUNTERED cylindrical, ash-covered goats’ RENNET: cheesemaker VARIATIONS: cheese COMMONLY N/A ENCOUNTERED VARIATIONS: THE STORY THE STORY Lady Isabel Angus fell in love with goats’ cheese while The truncated pyramid-shaped cheese, which is named living and holidaying in France. She learned how to after the village near Cirencester where it is made, takes There’s no mistaking a farmhouse Caerphilly thanks to US, and the damage wrought on farmhouse cheese make the famous Loire Valley cheese Valençay from three days to produce. Starter and rennet are added its pretty two-tone interior, which is white and crumbly production by the two world wars and rationing, a French farmer’s wife and was so inspired that she to the raw goats’ milk on day one, the curd is moulded in the middle with a darker cream band running just meant that by the 1950s there was just one farmhouse returned to the Cotswolds in the 1980s and created a on day two, and on day three the young cheeses are underneath the natural rind. The young cows’ milk Caerphilly maker left in the country – Chris Duckett British version that has become a modern classic. Lady demoulded and sprinkled with sea salt and oak ash. cheese is named after the Welsh town near Cardiff in Wedmore. Today, most of the Caerphilly on sale in Angus passed away in 2016, but the business continues where it originated. A favourite with miners, who were supermarkets is made in big factories, but there has under the stewardship of her son Nicholas Angus and said to have taken wedges wrapped in cabbage leaves been a mini-renaissance in artisan producers, including his wife Janet. down into the pits, the cheese became increasingly Westcombe Dairy, which adopted Duckett’s recipe popular in the 19th century with production spreading when he retired; Trethowan’s, which makes Gorwydd; to Somerset, where it was adopted by cheddar makers. and Caws Cenarth. However, the rise of cheese factories in the UK and THE CHARACTER Beneath the black, ash-covered rind, Cerney has a PERFECT PARTNERS: smooth and soft texture when young, which becomes Hard to look beyond a pungent Sauvignon Blanc from more dense and compact as it ages. The flavour also the Loire Valley, but also try sparkling Vouvray and THE CHARACTER intensifies with time, starting out mild and lemony, but aromatic Belgian wheat beers. The crumbly, open-textured centre is slightly acidic PERFECT PARTNERS: developing spicy and nutty notes. with citrus notes, while the softer ‘breakdown’ beneath Try it with a citrusy, hoppy ale or push the boat out the velvet grey rind is rich and smooth with earthy, with a white Burgundy. Also pairs well with dark mushroom notes. chocolate. 3 4 COTTAGE CHEESE CROWDIE THE BASICS THE BASICS MAKE: Soft MAKE: Soft SOFT SUB MAKE: Fresh or Unripened cheese: lactic SOFT SUB MAKE: Fresh or Unripened cheese: lactic or rennet set or rennet set POST MAKE: Flavoured or Smoked POST-MAKE: N/A FLAVOURED OR SMOKED External flavouring: dressed in TYPICAL AGE PROFILES: Unripened SUB POST-MAKE: whey, sour cream or cream APPROXIMATE SIZE(S): 150g-1kg TYPICAL AGE PROFILES: Unripened GEOGRAPHICAL ORIGIN: Scotland APPROXIMATE SIZE(S): Various PROTECTED STATUS: Traditional Cheese with no name GEOGRAPHICAL ORIGIN: UK, but made all over the world protection PROTECTED STATUS: Traditional cheese with no name SPECIES (AND BREED) Cow protection OF MILKING ANIMAL: SPECIES (AND BREED) Cow RAW/PASTEURISED MILK: Pasteurised OF MILKING ANIMAL: VEGETARIAN/ANIMAL Vegetarian (if used) RAW/PASTEURISED Pasteurised RENNET: MILK: COMMONLY Sometimes rolled in pinhead VEGETARIAN/ANIMAL Usually vegetarian ENCOUNTERED oatmeal and crushed black RENNET: VARIATIONS: peppercorns COMMONLY Flavoured with fruit, such as ENCOUNTERED pineapple chunks, or herbs, VARIATIONS: including chives THE STORY Legend has it that this fresh lactic cows’ milk cheese The cheese is recommended for lining the stomach THE STORY dates back to the Vikings or even earlier. Traditionally ahead of whisky-fuelled ceilidhs and is sometimes made by tenant farmers, known as crofters, with rolled in oats and pepper. Production of the cheese had Traditionally a way for farms to make the most of their and could be dressed with whey, sour cream or cream. naturally soured skimmed milk, crowdie is a fresh and all but disappeared by the end of the Second World milk once the cream had been skimmed for butter. The Commercial production speeds up the process with the tangy lactic cows’ milk cheese that is not dissimilar to War, but has been revived by a new generation of skimmed milk would be kept in a warm place until a addition of starter cultures and rennet, and by heating cottage cheese. artisan cheesemakers in Scotland. yoghurty curd had formed from natural acidification. the curd to expel more whey. Cottage cheese remains a The whey would then be drained in a cloth bag to supermarket staple because of its low-fat content. leave a moist, basic curd cheese, which was washed THE CHARACTER THE CHARACTER The cheese is pale with no rind and has a soft, PERFECT PARTNERS: White, grainy chunks of curds, often dressed in soured PERFECT PARTNERS: fluffy, sometimes mousse-like texture. Dairy flavours Often eaten with oatcakes, it is also a versatile cream, whey or cream. The flavour is extremely mild – Mix with fruit or use in cheesecakes or as a pancake predominate with a pronounced acidity. ingredient in the kitchen, which can be used for dairy notes, salt and a little acidity. filling. topping carrot cakes and in cheesecakes or served with trout and potato scones. 5 6 DORSET BLUE CHEESE PGI (AKA VINNY) DOUBLE GLOUCESTER THE BASICS THE BASICS MAKE: Crumbly MAKE: Hard CRUMBLY SUB MAKE: Curd from a single day HARD SUB MAKE: Cheeses which acidify in the vat POST-MAKE: Internal (blue) mould POST-MAKE: Wrapped, Rolled or Processed INTERNAL (BLUE) Natural rind WRAPPED, ROLLED OR Natural: cloth girdle for some MOULD SUB POST-MAKE: PROCESSED SUB traditional farmhouse cheeses.