The Greek Islands Top tips by an (almost) local

Alex Chatziagorakis (the Traveling Psychiatrist) Contents

Hello!

Page 4

Hiking in Amorgos (as published in the Guardian on 17th May 2018)

Page 6

Amorgos: the Big Blue island

Page 8

Folegandros: the secret alternative to Santorini

Page 16

Koufonisia: the hidden gems of the Aegean

Page 23

Mykonos: the hedonistic island

Page 28

Santorini: the most iconic island

Page 34

Serifos: the island where time stands still

Page 40

Sifnos: the island of Greek gastronomy

Page 46

Skyros: the island of wellness & wellbeing

Page 55

Itinerary 1: Santorini-Amorgos-Koufonisia-Mykonos

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Itinerary 2: Serifos-Sifnos-Folegandros-Santorini

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Portokalopita (orange pie) from Amorgos

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Watermelon & Feta: Mykonos-inspired recipes

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Planning your trip

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Hello!

My name is Alex and I am a Greek-born, London-based Psychiatrist.

I love traveling the world, collecting beautiful moments and living life to the full (some of my mottos). I have visited quite a few countries, most of them twice or more. Since I moved to England, Greece, my home-country, has become one of my favorite destinations. I particularly enjoy traveling to the islands, and every summer I try to go on an island-hopping holiday.

Aside from traveling, I also love cooking and baking, and I draw inspiration from my travels. I am also a music lover (most genres, but especially jazz, country and indie), a film enthusiast and an avid reader (crime novels being my favorite).

As a Psychiatrist, I am a passionate advocate of work-life balance and wellbeing (which includes healthy eating and yoga), and I try to lead by example.

But most of all, I love writing and traveling.

It may have taken me some time, but I’ve finally discovered that travel writing is much more than a hobby or a passion; it’s my raison d’être.

In 2018, I finally decided to do something about it, so I entered the Guardian's competition ‘10 great Greek islands: readers’ travel tips’. My tip ‘Hiking in Amorgos, Cyclades’ was not only published but it was also the winning tip.

I then launched the Traveling Psychiatrist, a travel and wellbeing blog, where I publish weekly travel tips on my favorite places (with a focus on Greek islands) and wellbeing tips based on my clinical experience and inspired by the books I read. An amateur cook and baker, sometimes, I’ve gone as far as to also share healthy recipes inspired by my travels, such as the orange pie (portokalopita) from Amorgos.

In this e-book, I'm sharing my tips for eight Greek islands: Amorgos, Folegandros, Koufonisia, Mykonos, Santorini, Serifos, Sifnos, and my favorite one, Skyros. I have also included two suggested itineraries, as well as some recipes inspired by my travels to these islands.

Have a great journey!

Alex

(the Traveling Psychiatrist)

Hiking in Amorgos

(as published in the Guardian on 17th May 2018)

As well as the azure bays and its role in Luc Besson’s The Big Blue, Amorgos is also renowned for its hiking trails, which not only connect the island’s villages but also provide access to ecclesiastical and natural landmarks.

Start at Hora, the capital of the island, and walk towards the landmark of Amorgos, the Greek-Orthodox monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa. Built by Byzantine emperor Alexius Comnenus I in the 11th century, this whitewashed monastery is wedged into a cliff face 300 meters above the sea. Climb the nearly 300 steps, walk through the low marble doorway and take the staircase that leads to the chapel where treasures and icons are kept. You will be rewarded with a vertiginous yet panoramic view of the Mediterranean, complimentary rose- flavored loukoumi (Greek Turkish delight) and psimeni raki (raki with honey and spices) offered by the monks.

From there, descend towards the pebble beach of Agia Anna. Here the waves splash against a rock which a chapel of the same name is built on. It’s then time to dive into the deep blue Aegean.

Amorgos

The Big Blue island

If you asked me which my favorite Greek island is, I would struggle to come up with an answer. Yet, Amorgos would be among the first to spring to my mind. The easternmost of the Cyclades islands may not be as popular as its famous neighbor Santorini, but, cliché as it may sound, it is one of the most beautiful and charming Greek islands. In the last few years, however, it has been popular with the French, since it featured in Luc Besson’s film ‘Le Grand Bleu’ (‘The Big Blue’). It is a medium-sized island (for the Greek standards) with a population of 1,973; it is 18 miles long and 1.5 miles wide at its narrowest and 5 miles wide at its broadest.

Here are my top 9 tips:

Tip 1: Hike your way to Hora (and beyond)

As well as its role in the French cult-classic, Amorgos is also renowned for its hiking trails, which not only connect the island's villages and settlements, but also provide access to ecclesiastical and natural landmarks, and several archaeological sites (Minoa, Arkesini and Vigla) (read tip 8).

One of these trails, Fotodotis, connects Katapola (the main port) (read tip 5) with Hora (the capital and one of the main settlements of the island) (read tip 2). This ascending path is rather short and easy, so if your accommodation is at Katapola (like mine was), why not walk to Hora? Start your ascend not long before sunset, so you can watch the sun diving into the deep blue waters of the Aegean.

Tip 2: Fall in love with Hora

Hora is a charming inland village built on top of the mount Profitis Ilias. Stroll through its narrow streets where blushing bougainvilleas climb the walls of white- washed houses and blue-domed churches and chapels; their doors and window shutters have been painted blue, red or green, matching the chairs and tables scattered around the cobblestone alleys. Hora is a great place to have coffee and dessert (at Kallisto), try the local cuisine (at Tranzistoraki), or enjoy a few cocktails (at Botilia) (read tip 9).

Tip 3: Visit Panagia Hozoviotissa and Agia Anna

Walk past the windmills at the edge of Hora towards the landmark of Amorgos, the Greek-Orthodox monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa. Built by Byzantine emperor Alexius Comnenus I in the 11th century, this whitewashed monastery is wedged into a cliff face 300 meters above the sea. Climb the nearly 300 steps, walk through the low marble doorway and take the staircase that leads to the chapel where treasures and icons are kept. You will be rewarded with a vertiginous yet panoramic view of the Mediterranean, complimentary rose- flavoured loukoumi (Greek Turkish delight) and psimeni raki (raki with honey and spices) offered by the monks. From there, descend towards the pebble beach of Agia Anna. Here the waves splash against a rock, which a chapel of the same name is built on. It’s then time to dive into the deep blue Aegean.

Tip 4: Dive into the ‘Big Blue’

Luc Besson’s film, released in 1988, tells the story of the friendship and rivalry between two divers, Jacques and Enzo, a story that begins in Amorgos in the 1960s. Why not follow their example and go diving? There are two diving centres: Amorgos Diving Center in Aegiali, and We Shall Sea in Katapola.

Tip 5: Katapola is more than a port

Katapola is the main port of the island and home to one of the two diving centers (read tip 4). Here you can also find several seaside taverns (Capetan Dimos, Almyriki and Vitsentzos) as well as Moonbar, where you can enjoy a refreshing cinnamon-based drink (read tip 9).

From Katapola, you can take the boat taxi, or walk to Maltezi, a nearby secluded beach.

Tip 6: Go to Aegiali and explore the north-western part of Amorgos

Drive north to Aegiali. A wonderful drive along a winding road will bring you to this small village, where you can embark on one of the most scenery and beautiful hiking trails on the island. Walk past the small church of Agia Barbara towards Agios Theologos. Dedicated to John the Evangelist and built on the site of an ancient temple, this beautiful Byzantine monastery dates back to the 7th century. Continue on the precariously narrow path towards the beautiful chapel of Stavros, situated above an old bauxite mine. The trail ends up at the summit of mount Krikelos, the highest point of Amorgos. The view is compensation: from here you can see the whole island and the endless Aegean Sea.

On your way back, follow the stone-paved path towards Panagia Epanohoriani. Before you, the old church stands tall; behind you lies the islet of Nikouria. Stop at the charming old-fashioned mountain village Tholaria, to savor a Greek coffee at Kali Kardia, an old-style café-ouzo-mezedopolio (place that serves coffee, ouzo and mezedes) (read tip 9).

Continue to Aegiali beach. There you will find DISCOtheQUE (simply Q for the locals), an all-day beach bar where teenagers sip iced coffees, which will later turn to beers and cocktails, as the day turns to night.

Tip 7: Go to Kalotaritissa and discover the south-eastern part of Amorgos

Drive south to Kalotaritissa. On your way there, you will catch glimpse of the rusty shipwreck Inland now known as Olympia, which has been lying at the small bay of Livero for the last 40 years. Continue towards Kalotaritissa; a rainbow of fishing boats anchored in the small bay will soon appear. A little café on the semi-organized sandy beach serves tyropita (cheese pie) and mpougatsa (filo pastry with custard). Hop on the boat taxi, which will take you to the uninhabited islet of Gramvousa. Walk past the small chapel, and you will find yourself in a secluded beach.

Tip 8: Get to know the history of the island

In a country with very rich history, which continues to be part of its people’s psyche, archaeological sites and museums are ubiquitous. Amorgos is no exception to this and is home to three archaeological sites (Vigla, Minoa and Arkesini), as well as three museums (one archaeological and two ecclesiastical).

Ancient Vigla, located close to the village of Tholaria, is home to the acropolis of ancient Aegialis; the biggest sculpture of the Cycladic Age was also found in this area. Close to Katapola is ancient Minoa, named after the Cretan king Minos, who had his summer residence there; in the prehistoric times it was one of the most important centers of human life and activity on the island. The walking path Itonia connects Minoa with the archaeological site of ancient Arkesini (not to be confused with the modern village of Arkesini).

Located in Hora and housed in the traditional mansion known as Sala tou Gavra, the archaeological museum contains interesting pieces excavated on the island; these include 4000-year-old remnants of the Minoan civilization, marbles of Cycladic culture and architectural finds from the Hellenistic, Roman and Early Christian periods.

There are also two ecclesiastical museums on the island; one below the Church Agion Anargiron in Tholaria, and one at the Monastery of Hozoviotissa, containing manuscripts, icons, crosses and other examples of Byzantine ecclesiastical art dating as back as the 10th century AD.

Tip 9: My favorite places to eat and drink

I’ve already mentioned a few of my favorite places to eat and drink; and here’s a summary:

In Hora, you will find the little café-patisserie Kallisto, one of my favorite places on the island. The reason? Their fragrant and moist portokalopita (orange pie) indulgently served with vanilla ice-cream.

There are also several taverns in Hora; Tranzistoraki stands out for its food as well as its atmosphere. Try their pancetta with fig marmalade.

In Katapola, have a meal at Capetan Dimos on the side where the ferries arrive, or at Almyriki and Vitsentzos on the opposite side. Try some seafood dishes (it couldn’t get any fresher) or the local specialty patatato (goat with potatoes) along with some Amorgean white wine.

In Tholaria, have a Greek coffee at Kali Kardia, an old-style café-ouzo- mezedopolio (place that serves coffee, ouzo and mezedes). Also, try a few dishes, including their meatballs.

In Kalotaritissa, you will find a little beach café that serves tyropita (cheese pie) and mpougatsa (filo pastry with custard).

In the evening, enjoy a few drinks at cocktail-bar Botilia in Hora, at Moonbar in Katapola, or at DISCOtheQUE, in Aegiali.

Finally, try psimeni raki (raki with honey and spices), which you can also purchase to take home with you.

How to get to Amorgos

Amorgos has no airport but has two ports (Katapola and Aegiali), both located on the west coast of the island. There are daily ferries from Piraeus (the port of Athens); Hellenic Seaways is the fastest at six hours and a half (approx. 70 euros). There are also ferries from other Cycladic islands. From Santorini, the journey takes an hour on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays (SeaJets, approx. 50 euros), but considerably longer on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Check out the ferries timetable here.

Once on the island, I would strongly recommend you rent a car.

Accommodation in Amorgos

Aegialis Hotel & Spa is the only five-star hotel on the island; it is located near the village and port of Aegiali on the northwest coast. If you stay only for a few days, however, it might be better to stay in Katapola or in Hora.

I would recommend staying there for at least three days.

Folegandros

The secret alternative to Santorini

When I came across Jade Conroy’s article ‘the secret alternative to Santorini’ (published in the Telegraph on 22nd February 2019), Folegandros immediately sprang to my mind. I was right.

One of the least known Greek islands, Folegandros is only an hour away (on the ferry) from the world-famous Santorini. This rather small Cycladic island is located in the southern Aegean Sea, nested between Milos and Kimolos on the west, and Sikinos and Ios on the east (Santorini is further on the east).

An off-the-beaten-track island, Folegandros has a small population of fewer than 1000 inhabitants. Every summer, however, it comes to life thanks to a wave of mostly Greek, young, hipster and arty visitors, who seek an alternative, more authentic and less crowded destination than Mykonos or Santorini.

Here are my top 7 tips:

Tip 1: Wander around Hora

Whitewashed houses. Blushing bougainvilleas. Cobbled alleyways. Welcome to Hora, the charming inland capital of Folegandros. Built on the edge of a 200- meter high cliff, Hora is where the heart of the island beats. Ditch your map (if you have one) and simply wander around the village taking in the friendly atmosphere. Color-coded tables and chairs from the inviting taverns in the squares of the village (see tip 5) provide a picture-perfect backdrop. Then, stroll around Kastro, the oldest part of Hora, before you make your way to the church of Panagia (see tip 2). Some of the houses here are a thousand-year-old.

Tip 2: Watch the sunset from the church of Panagia

Dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, the whitewashed church of Panagia is the landmark of Folegandros. The ascending path is easy to climb (no more than 15 minutes from Hora), and it will reward you with panoramic views of the island. Evenings are the best time to visit, so you can watch the sunset.

Tip 3: Go to the beach

Despite being a small island, Folegandros has a number of beaches perfect for swimming and sunbathing. Unlike Halkidiki, where the beaches are highly organized, or Sifnos, where you will find waterside taverns serving delicious food, beaches here have no such facilities (except for those close to the port of Karavostasis and the coastal village of Agali). So, come prepared.

Your choice of beach will depend on the wind, so make sure you ask the locals first.

The port of Karavostasis is situated on the east coast of Folegandros. Upon your arrival to the island, you will notice the beaches of Vardia and Hohlidia on your right and left-hand side respectively. Moving clockwise, there are the beaches of Latinaki, Vitsentzou, and Pountaki, all within walking distance from the port.

Further west, there’s the beach of Livadi (1.2 km from Karavostasis), which can be reached by road, and then Katergo, which can be reached either by boat (10- minute ride from the port) (reason no 1 why this is my favorite beach on Folegandros), or on foot (30-minute walk from Karavostasis). There’s a small islet in the middle of the bay (reason no 2), where you can easily swim and then explore barefoot. Amongst the young crowd, you may spot a few naturalists at the far end of the beach (reason no 3 – I’m only joking!).

The beach of Fira is a 15-minute walk from the village of Agali on the west coast of the island. The beach of Galyfos is a 10-minute walk from Agali, but on the opposite direction (there’s also the beach of Agali nestled between Fira and Galyfos). Agios Nikolaos is a 15-minute walk from Agali (same direction as Galyfos); surprisingly, it is home to a couple of seaside taverns. Alternatively, it can be reached by boat from Agali, as is the case for the beach of Livadaki (not to be confused with Livadi).

On the northern part of the island, you’ll find the beaches of Ampeli, Ligaria and Agios Georgios (all accessible by road). On the contrary, the beaches of Serfiotiko and Vorina can only be reached by boat or on foot.

Other than the boat rides which can take you to the island’s beaches, there are also boat tours that take you close to the caves of Hrisospilia and Georgitsi on the east and south coast of Folegandros respectively.

Tip 4: Follow the trails

Like Sifnos and Amorgos, Folegandros offers a few designated hiking trails:

From Hora, you can hike to the beach of Fira and then to Agali. On your way there, you will pass by the chapel of Agios Savvas and the church of Stavros. Jumping from terrace to terrace is also part of the route, and as fun as it sounds.

Or, you can follow the donkey trail from Hora to the village of Petousis, and then continue to the beach of Livadi and arrive at the port of Karavostasis.

The trails from Hora to the village of Ano Meria are longer; of those, the trail that passes by the beach of Livadaki is the longest, but very scenic. There’s another, shorter trail passing by the churches of Agia Paraskevi and Stavros.

From Ano Meria, there are quite a few trails worth following. You can walk towards the beach of Agios Georgios (bypassing the church of Agios Sostis), or to the beach of Ampeli (bypassing Agios Panteleimon). Another trail takes you to the beach of Livadaki and then to the Aspropounta lighthouse.

Tip 5: Savor the local cuisine

Like with most Greek islands, the local cuisine has a few unique dishes that you won’t find anywhere else: matsata (homemade pasta served with locally produced cheese, and rabbit, goat or chicken in a tomato sauce) and kalasouna (onion and cheese pie). As far as desserts are concerned, try both karpouzenia (griddle-cake made with watermelon and honey topped with sesame and usually served with ice-cream on the side) and biskotenia (layers of biscuits with vanilla and chocolate cream).

Hora is no short of taverns. One of the most famous is I Piatsa; it is often fully packed, albeit for a very good reason. It scores top marks on both food and atmosphere. Other highly recommended taverns are To Chic, To Asygkrito, and I Pounta. If you fancy something more sophisticated, then try Eva’s Garden, a gourmet restaurant with a modern but tasteful take on the Cycladic cuisine.

Ano Meria also has its share of taverns. Highly recommended are Eirini, I Synantisi, and O Mimis.

Tip 6: Join the party

After dinner, join the millennials for a drink or two in Hora. Baraki is a charming cocktail bar, whereas Astarti has a more retro vibe; try rakomelo, a traditional alcoholic drink made with raki, honey, and spices (cinnamon and cardamom).

Tip 7: Immerse yourself into the Greek culture

The village of Ano Meria is home to the Ecological and Folklore Museum, housed in an old farmhouse.

If you visit Folegandros in the summer, you may have the chance to attend an open-air concert in Hora. A few years ago, Dimitra Galani, one of my favorite Greek singers, performed there.

How to get to Folegandros

Folegandros has no airport. There are daily ferries from Piraeus (the port of Athens) to Karavostasis; Seajets is the fastest at four hours (60-70 euros). There are also ferries from other Cycladic islands, such as Sifnos and Santorini, which has an airport. Check out the ferries timetable here.

Renting a car is not necessary; there are regular bus services from Hora to Karavostasis and to the other villages.

Accommodation in Folegandros

Hora is the best place to stay; you could rent a room or a house/apartment there.

I would recommend staying there for at least three days.

Koufonisia

The hidden gems of the Aegean

I have to admit that I had never heard of Koufonisia until a couple of years ago. Perhaps, this is because these three Cycladic islands are really really small. Actually, only one is inhabited: Ano (or Pano) Koufonisi (‘Upper Hollow Island’). Au contraire, Kato Koufonisi (‘Lower Hollow Island’) and Keros are not. Interestingly, when Greeks say ‘Koufonisia’, they usually refer to Ano Koufonisi, rather than all three. Despite their close proximity to Amorgos and Naxos, these tiny islands are considered remote and often described as ‘hidden gems’, ‘off the beaten track’ or ‘undiscovered paradise’, even for Greeks and Italians, who are the main visitors.

Here are my top 9 tips:

Tip 1: Wander around Hora

Hora is the island’s only village and spreads out behind the ferry quay. Wander along the main street towards the small harbor of Loutro, where you can have dinner at one of the seaside taverns.

Tip 2: Go beach hopping

From Hora, start walking anti-clockwise towards the beach of Pori; even though the distance from Hora to Pori is only 3.5 km, beach hopping is more of a day- long activity. First stop is Finikas, where a beach bar may tempt you to stay. Inviting as this may be, continue towards Fanos and Platia Pounta. The latter, also known as Italida, is a nudist beach; however, many prefer not to bare it all and still enjoy its golden sand and azure waters.

Tip 3: Visit the caves

From Italida, walk along the cliff path towards Pori; you will pass by the small caves, one of the most famous sights of the island. Piscina (Pool), or Devil’s Eye, is the one that attracts the biggest crowd – diving from the top of the cave into the naturally formed pool. Continue to Pori and then to the secluded by the caves ‘beach’ Gala. This is slightly tricky to find, as you can only see it once you are actually there.

Tip 4: Yoga by the beach

In Pori, there are ‘yoga by the beach’ sessions in the morning and in the evening (10 euros). Can you imagine a better place to practice your downward-facing dog?

Tip 5: Hop on a boat taxi

At Pori, hop on a boat taxi back to Hora. Alternatively, you can walk along the inland road.

Tip 6: My favorite places to eat

My favorite place to have breakfast is the all-day café-bar Kalamia, in Hora.

At Pori, the cozy tavern/restaurant Kalofeggo is the perfect place for lunch.

In Hora, be prepared to queue for Souvlaki sti Strofi; this is a small corner eatery famous for its delicious souvlaki (grilled meat on a skewer served inside pitta bread). The seating area is limited, but souvlaki is best enjoyed as take-away anyway.

If you’d rather have a sit-down meal, go the seaside tavern Karnagio, where the octopuses hang to dry before they are grilled over charcoal. Alternatively, try the elegant restaurant Gastronautis, or Capetan Nikolas, another waterside tavern.

Tip 7: Listen to classical music

Koufonisia Classical Music Festival takes place in July and August; this summer there are six concerts approximately one week apart (most of them fall on Wednesdays though). The festival features both Greek and international artists.

Tip 8: Visit Kato Koufonisi

Take the boat taxi to Kato Koufonisi and spend the day there. Get off at Nero, one of the few beaches on this uninhabited island. Have lunch at the tavern Venetsanos, before you take the boat back to Ano Koufonisi.

Tip 9: Go bar hopping

In Hora, have a cocktail (or perhaps even a shot of rakomelo) at the bar Scholio. Take a look at the interior of the bar, to admire photographs taken by the owners.

Another great bar is Sorokos. Overlooking the harbor, it is a popular choice among the young visitors, comfortably sat on colorful cushions at the cliff edge.

Mylos (Windmill) also offers a panoramic view of the harbor.

How to get to Koufonisia

Koufonisia have no airport. There are daily ferries from Piraeus (the port of Athens) to Ano Koufonisi; Hellenic Seaways is the fastest at five hours (approx. 60 euros). There are also ferries from other Cycladic islands, such as Santorini, Mykonos, Naxos and Paros, all of which have airports. Check out the ferries timetable here.

Accommodation in Koufonisia

Ever wished to sleep in an actual windmill? If yes, Windmill Villa is the place where you should stay. To avoid disappointment, book early, as there is only one apartment available to rent. It can sleep up to four people, and it has to be rented for a minimum of three days. Located very close to Hora, it is probably as unique an accommodation as you can get.

I would recommend staying there for at least three days.

Mykonos

The hedonistic island

I have to admit that I had always thought Mykonos as little more than a party island destination and a celebrity-magnet. However, the first time I set foot on this Cycladic island, Hora, the capital and main settlement, simply took me by surprise. I remember wandering around the narrow, labyrinthine alleyways, taking pictures of cats napping, or of the blushing bougainvilleas climbing up the walls of the whitewashed houses, churches and chapels. Even though I am not religious, I was mesmerized by the Church of Panagia Paraportiani and the Life Giving Spring Orthodox Metropolitan Church.

Here are my top 7 tips:

Tip 1: Stroll around Hora

Start your day with a coffee at Passo Doble, an all-day café-bar; then wander towards the windmills. Perhaps, have another coffee (or even an afternoon cocktail) in Little Venice. If you're lucky, you may cross paths with the famous pelican of the island.

Tip 2: Watch the sunset in Little Venice

In the evening, make your way to the waterfront of Little Venice, a great place to watch the sunset. Bao’s, Negrita, Semeli and Galleraki are all charming bars, where you can enjoy fantastic cocktails and views of the sunset, the windmills and the 18th-century fishing houses.

Tip 3: Go to the beach (and party)

There are a number of beaches on the island, but the famous ones (where the celebrities hang out and the beach parties take place) are on the south-west coast. Having a car and a more-than-average budget to spend will both come handy. Psarou, Paraga, Paradise and Super Paradise are the best-known and most expensive ones and they are all organized. Sunbeds may cost a small fortune, but the combination of crystalline waters, signature summer cocktails and luxurious atmosphere is compensation. Psarou is home to the renowned restaurant Nammos, whereas Super Paradise is home to JackieO’ Beach Club and Restaurant. Enjoy the dazzling turquoise waters, then join the party and dance till late.

Tip 4: Party more

The parties continue in Hora, where there are a number of gay-friendly bars and clubs, such as the waterfront JackieO’ Town Bar and Babylon, overlooking the Old Port, as well as Porta, off a narrow alleyway.

Tip 5: Discover Delos

Go on a guided tour to the nearby, uninhabited island of Delos. The boat takes only half an hour; yet, it feels like thousand miles away from the buzz of Mykonos. The mythical birthplace of Apollo and Artemis, Delos is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important historical and archaeological sites in Greece.

This year, however, Delos is also home to 29 ‘bodyforms’ created by British contemporary sculptor Antony Gormley. These life-size sculptures have been installed across the island. Five of them have been commissioned specifically for this installation, which will be on display from 2nd May to 31st October 2019.

Tip 6: Watch a film

Watch a movie under a sky full of stars at the open-air cinema Manto in Hora.

Tip 7: Places to eat

Have lunch (preferably souvlaki or gyros) at Sakis Grill House.

The picturesque Goumeniou Square is a must-go place for dinner. I’ve had dinner at Familia, and at the nearby Lucky Fish, both times followed by ice cream at Kayak.

How to get to Mykonos

In the summer, there are direct flights to Mykonos from Europe (as well as from mainland Greece). There are also daily ferries from Piraeus, the port of Athens; the fastest takes about 2 and a half hours (SeaJets; 60 euros). Check out the ferries timetable here.

Accommodation in Mykonos

Mykonos is undoubtedly an expensive island to visit, and accommodation is no exception. If you can afford to treat yourself to a luxurious hotel, why not choose one of the 120 hotels with an infinity pool; these are scattered all over the island, but the majority are either on the west coast (where Hora and the New Port are) or on the south coast (where the beach parties are). Otherwise, stay as close to Hora as your budget allows.

I would recommend staying there for at least three days.

Santorini

The most iconic island

Santorini (or Thira, as it is also known as) is the southernmost island of the Cyclades. One of the most famous as well as the most visited Greek islands, it can become quite hectic in the summer. Yet, this is the best time to visit. Here are my top 9 tips to avoid falling into the tourist traps, and have the best experience.

Here are my top 9 tips:

Tip 1: Do not avoid Oia (but avoid the hordes of tourists)

Oia is one of the two main settlements on the west coast of the island (Fira is the other one). Built on a steep slope of the caldera, this charming hilltop village is worldwide famous for its sunsets and can often be overcrowded with tourists.

Get there early in the morning, as this is when it tends to be at its quietest. Wander around the narrow streets and admire the blue-domed churches before you stop at Atlantis Books, a bookstore that is now considered among the must- visit places in Oia. Panagia of Platsani, Saint George and Panagia Agion Panton are among the most beautiful churches and also worth a visit.

Come back in the evening to watch the sunset (read tip 8 for my favorite places in Santorini to watch the sunset).

Tip 2: Escape the crowds in Fira

Fira is another hilltop village on the west coast of the island. Escape the crowds and walk along the caldera-edge pathway towards the villages of Firostefani (15- minute walk from Fira) and Imerovigli (half an hour walk from Fira). You can watch the sunset at the small church of Agios Georgios, or at Volkan On The Rock, a café-bar that serves coffee, as well as excellent food and cocktails (read tip 6). You can even watch a movie there, at the open-air cinema. After dinner, go back to Fira, to the Kira Thira Jazz Bar.

Tip 3: Get off the beaten track in Pyrgos

Get off the beaten track and go to the inland village of Pyrgos Kallistis (or simply Pyrgos), built amphitheatrically at the highest point of the island. You know what comes next: panoramic views of the whole island (not just the caldera) make this the perfect place to watch the sunset that Santorini is worldwide famous for (read tip 8). Stroll through the narrow, labyrinthine streets, and then experience the Greek hospitality and local cuisine at Penelope’s Ouzeri, a small traditional eatery, or at Brusco 'wine. coffee. deli' (read tip 6 for my favourite places to eat).

Tip 4: Visit Akrotiri

The archaeological site of Akrotiri, on the southwest coast, is an ancient Minoan city that had been buried beneath volcanic ash from 1,650 B.C. up until 1967. It is estimated that the settlement was constructed around 4,500 B.C. Get there early to avoid the crowds (read tip 5 on what to do afterwards).

Tip 5: And then go swimming (in the sea)

Hotels with an infinity pool on the edge of the caldera are a great place to stay; yet, Santorini is also famous for its black-sanded beaches and turquoise waters.

Once you visit Akrotiri, go to the beach of the same name and take a caique to Aspri (White) and Mavri (Black) Beach, or walk to Kokkini (Red) Beach and swim against the backdrop of red cliffs.

Another great beach is Vlyhada, also on the south coast of the island; here you can have a cocktail at Theros Wave Bar, an all-day beach bar, or lunch at one of the waterside taverns around the picturesque harbor.

Tip 6: My favorite places (and foods) to eat

Santorini is famous for delicious appetizers not normally found elsewhere in Greece. Try the ntomatokeftedes (tomato balls/fritters), the locally-produced cheese (hlorotyri), fava (yellow split-peas) and white eggplants.

To get an authentic culinary experience that doesn’t cost a small fortune, here are my favorite places to eat in Santorini:

• Metaxi Mas, a restaurant at the inland village Exo Gonia, that many consider the best one on the island. It may not be on the cliff edge, but it still offers panoramic views.

• Volkan On The Rock, a café-bar in Firostefani that serves coffee, as well as excellent food and cocktails (the menu is by Ergon Greek Deli & Cuisine).

• Penelope’s Ouzeri, and Brusco 'wine. coffee. deli', at the village of Pyrgos (read tip 3).

• The Cave of Nikolas (Spilia tou Nikola), a seaside tavern within walking distance from Akrotiri (read tip 4).

• The waterside taverns in Vlyhada (read tip 5).

Tip 7: Drink some wine (and then some more), but don’t drive

Greece is a wine-producing country; yet Greek wines are not widely available abroad. Locally-produced Santorini and Vinsanto wines are both made from the indigenous grape Assyrtiko; the latter is a sweet dessert wine.

Have some wine with your meals, but also go to the SantoWines Winery, a great place to try the island’s wine and to watch the sunset (read tip 8 for my favorite places in Santorini to watch the sunset).

According to the European Road Safety Observatory, Greece is by far the worst performing country among the older EU Member States, with the highest fatality rate. DO NOT DRINK AND DRIVE.

Tip 8: My favorite places to watch the sunset

In Oia, Sun Spirit is a good place to sit down, enjoy a cocktail and watch the iconic sunset (read tip 1).

If you find yourself in Fira in the evening, walk along the caldera-edge pathway towards the villages of Firostefani (15-minute walk from Fira) and Imerovigli (half an hour walk from Fira). You can watch the sunset at the small church of Agios Georgios, or at Volkan On The Rock (read tip 2).

The inland village of Pyrgos offers panoramic views of the island and is far less hectic than Oia and Fira (read tip 3).

SantoWines is another good place to watch the sunset from and also to try the island’s wine (read tip 7).

Tip 9: Watch a movie under the stars

Watching a movie under a sky full of stars is one of my favorite things to do in Greece in the summer, and I would highly recommend you try it.

Volkan On The Rock, a café-bar in Firostefani (15-minute walk from Fira), also has an open-air cinema.

Another open-air cinema is Kamari, situated in the village of the same name, on the east coast of the island.

How to get to Santorini

In the summer, there are direct flights to Santorini from Europe (as well as from mainland Greece). There are also daily ferries from Athens; the fastest take about five to five and a half hours and arrive midday (SeaJets, approx. 60-70 euros; Hellenic Seaways, approx. 60 euros). Check out the ferries timetable here.

Accommodation in Santorini

Accommodation in Santorini can be quite expensive. If your budget allows it, why not choose one of the 59 hotels with an infinity pool on the edge of the caldera. These are located on the west coast of the island (Oia, Fira, Imerovigli, Firostefani). Even if you cannot afford to stay in one of these luxurious hotels, I would strongly recommend you stay on the west coast.

I would recommend staying there for at least three days.

Serifos

The island where time stands still

In June 2017, Kate Lough shared her ‘10 reasons why you should visit the Greek island of Serifos’. She wrote that she ‘found a Greece that seemed to have stood still since the 1960s and where island life remains unspoiled by mass tourism’. I visited Serifos a year later, in August 2018. Oblivious to Kate’s article at the time, I came to the same realization: Serifos reminded me of a Greece of a different era: it was the Greece that starred in the 1960s movies I used to watch as a child. Again and again, during my time on this small Greek island, the phrase ‘time stands still’ came to my mind.

Located in the western Cyclades, south of Kythnos and north of Sifnos, which I also visited last summer, Serifos has a small population of just over 1,000. Due to its close proximity to Piraeus, the port of Athens (2 hours by ferry), the island comes to life in the summer, when Athenians seek to escape the heat of the capital. Yet, as I discovered, it is not only Greeks that frequent Serifos; Italian and French speakers are also amongst the summer visitors. Despite this, Serifos remains relatively unknown to most foreign travelers, and therefore, as Kate says, ‘unspoiled by mass tourism’.

It is not only time that stands still in Serifos. As a visitor, I found myself slowing down and standing still, whether soaking up the sun on one of the many beaches of the island, sipping a glass of wine under the moonlight sky, or balancing a yoga pose.

Here are my top 7 tips:

Tip 1: Spend a morning in Hora

Like with many other Greek islands, Hora is the name of the capital of Serifos. Built on the slopes of a hill, it is a whitewashed village overlooking the port of Livadi and all the while offering panoramic views of the Aegean Sea.

Start your day at Pano Piatsa, Hora’s main square. Here you’ll find the neoclassical town hall and the Greek Orthodox church of Agios Athanasios, as well as colorful chairs and tables from the cozy cafes around the square. The turquoise ones are from Stou Stratou, the khaki ones from Piazza; both cafes are excellent choices for breakfast, brunch or coffee. Make sure you try pastaki, the chocolate dessert that Serifos is famous for.

Then walk up to Kastro (Castle) and to the chapel of Agios Konstantinos to enjoy the most panoramic views of the island.

Tip 2: Spend a day on the beach

Preparing for my trip, I read that Serifos has over 70 beaches. Now, it’d be a blatant lie if I said I’d been to all of them. Making friends with the locals, however, saved me time and helped me decide which ones to visit.

One of the most famous and my personal favorite is Agios Sostis. For this east- facing beach takes its name from the chapel overlooking the small bay. The beach is neither organized nor has any facilities (whether a beach bar, tavern or even a canteen); so make sure you bring a beach towel, a book, food, and water if you are to spend the day there. Hotel Rizes (perfect place for a yoga class) is not far from here.

From Agios Sostis, continue anti-clockwise to Psili Ammos, another beach on the east coast of Serifos, and from there to Platys Gialos and Sykamia, both on the north coast.

Tip 3: Spend another day on the beach

Vagia is another beach, located on the south coast of Serifos. Here you can find a small beach bar offering snacks and refreshing cocktails. It is also home to Coco-Mat Eco Residences.

Tip 4: Enjoy a meal at the port

On the south coast of the island, you’ll also find the port of Livadi. This is much more than the port of entry to the island (Serifos has no airport): it is also a lively village home to some excellent waterfront restaurants and taverns.

Kali’s is one of the most famous; the dish that really stood out was the salad (Salata Krasiou): green leaves topped with caramelized figs, pomegranate seeds, manouri cheese, and red wine vinaigrette.

Another restaurant I’d recommend is Ydrolithos, located on a rooftop terrace.

After dinner, have a cocktail at the rooftop bar Shark, or at the Yacht Club, the locals’ favorite.

Tip 5: Walk from Hora down to Aloni

From Hora, take the path that goes down to Livadi. You will pass by a number of blue-domed churches and chapels (I actually lost count). Half-way down, there’s Aloni, a restaurant offering traditional Cycladic food and wonderful views of the port down below. Perfect pitstop to watch the sunset from and enjoy the local cuisine.

Tip 6: Down the dog

Walking around the island, I kept on seeing posters advertising yoga sessions. Being a yoga enthusiast, I wasn’t hard to convince to join one. Yogi Hara Pilianidou offers evening sessions on Avlomonas beach, whereas Despina Mesimvrinou offers both morning and evening sessions at Hotel Rizes.

Tip 7: Have a cocktail in Hora

Finish off the day where it all started: in Hora. There are several bars here inviting you to join the lively crowd and enjoy a cocktail under the moonlight sky. Vatrahos, Gaidaros, and Aerino are all great choices. In the peak season, some of these bars open early in the day to also serve brunch.

How to get to Serifos

Serifos has no airport. There are daily ferries from Piraeus (the port of Athens) to Livadi; Seajets is the fastest at two hours (approx. 50 euros). There are also ferries from other Cycladic islands, such as the neighboring Kythnos and Sifnos, as well as Folegandros and Santorini, which has an airport. Check out the ferries timetable here.

Renting a car is recommended; in peak season, do this well in advance. In case you've decided not to rent a car, there are regular bus services from Livadi to Hora and also to the beaches.

Accommodation in Serifos

Hotel Rizes and Coco-Mat Eco Residences stand out. Alternatively, rent a room or a house in Hora.

I would recommend staying there for at least three days.

Sifnos

The island of Greek gastronomy

I was born and raised in Greece, a country with a rich history, and a healthy and delicious cuisine. As a child, I would often hear the word ‘tselementes’ being used to refer to any cookbook. So, I naturally assumed that it meant ‘cookbook’. Not quite so. I later learned that Nikolaos Tselementes was a Greek chef and cookery writer born on the island of Sifnos in the late 19th century. 130 years later, this small Cycladic island is considered the capital of Greek gastronomy.

Sifnos is located in the western Cyclades, northeast of Milos and south of Serifos, which I also visited last summer. Despite the island’s close proximity to the laid-back Serifos, Sifnos has a very different vibe. Not only a gourmet island, it is also a very chic one. Does this sound like Mykonos? Trust me, it is neither as pretentious nor as hedonistic as the famous neighbor.

With a small population of just under 3,000, Sifnos has plenty of villages worth visiting: Apollonia (the capital), Ano Petali, Artemonas, the cliff-top Kastro, and Kamares (the port). Then it has a decent number of (more than decent) beaches (guess this is what most people sign up for): Herronisos, Hrysopigi, Platys Gialos to mention just a few. And then it has a very large number of Greek orthodox churches and chapels: more than 360 scattered all around the island.

Church spotting aside, here my top 7 tips:

Tip 1: Savor the local cuisine

Fish and seafood play a protagonist role in the Cycladic cuisine; however, Sifnos is famous for a dish called mastelo: goat or lamb marinated in red wine and oven-cooked in ceramic pots made on the island.

Other local specialties include revithada (a chickpea soup or stew), revithokeftedes (chickpeas croquettes or fritters) and kaparosalata (caper salad). Don’t forget to try the island’s cheese manoura, made from sheep and goat milk.

While Serifos is famous for the pastraki, in Sifnos you’ll come across melopita (honey pie) and amygdalota (marzipan-based sweets).

A proper foodie island, Sifnos is not short of excellent restaurants and taverns. Just continue reading this article for specific recommendations.

Or, if you love cooking, you could join a cooking course and make these delicious dishes from scratch using the freshest ingredients – locally sourced of course.

If you visit Sifnos in early September, you’ll come across the Cycladic Gastronomy Festival ‘Nikolaos Tselementes’. Taking place in Artemonas, it offers a unique opportunity to savor not only the local cuisine, but also dishes from the other Cycladic islands. The festival is now in its 13th year and is free to attend.

Tip 2: Start and finish up your day in Apollonia

The capital of Sifnos is an inland village in the middle of the island, a few minutes drive from the port of Kamares. Steno (which means ‘narrow’ in Greek) is the name of the main (pedestrianized) street, lined with a great number of restaurants and café-bars. It is a wonderful place to kick off your day; however, it is later in the evening when it transforms into a catwalk and really comes alive.

With Sifnos being the island of Greek gastronomy, its capital, Apollonia, is by no means short of restaurants. Kafeneio Drakakis and Tou Apostoli To Koutouki are traditional taverns with excellent Cycladic dishes, whereas Cayenne Restaurant Art Gallery lies on the more modern end of the spectrum. Both the food and the location are gorgeous. Tou Apostoli To Koutouki has a roof terrace offering wonderful views of the Church of Taxiarhes opposite; Kafeneio Drakakis, on the other hand, has tables off the street perfectly located for sitting back and people watching. As its name suggests, Cayenne Restaurant Art Gallery combines gastronomy with art.

After dinner, stop at the patisserie 3 Xanthoi Aggeloi for loukoumades (traditional Greek doughnuts, usually served with honey, cinnamon and ice-cream on the side).

Then, it’s time for cocktails. Botzi, Mandolou, and Doloma are intimate all day café-bars, whereas Argo and Cosi have terraces with beautiful views.

Alternatively, head to Rambagas, a beautiful tree-shaded terrace, home to several all day café -bar-restaurants. There’s also an open-air cinema there – perfect place to watch a film under the moonlight.

Or, stroll to the villages of Ano Petali and Artemonas, a short walk from Apollonia. In Artemonas, the village that takes its name from the goddess Artemis and is often considered the prettiest on Sifnos, you’ll find Chrysso and Mosaiko, two lovely places for coffee, food and drinks.

Tip 3: Watch the sunrise and stroll around Kastro

Kastro is another traditional village (dating back to 3000 BC) and the old capital of Sifnos. Sat on top of a hill, it is located 3 km east of Apollonia. Wander around the narrow alleyways and the whitewashed houses (most of them date back to the Venetian times), but make sure you find your way to the Church of the Seven Martyrs, probably the most Instagrammable spot on the island. Sat on a rock, it reminded me of the Church of Agios Ioannis Kastri, on the island of Skopelos, where Meryl Streep got married to Pierce Brosnan in Mamma Mia! Walk around the small church for breath-taking views of the Aegean, before heading back to Kastro to enjoy a meal at Nea Lontzia or a mojito at Cavo Sunriso, an island institution. Then continue to Dolci for a late-night cocktail at the bougainvillea- shaded terrace.

Alternatively, visit the Church of the Seven Martyrs early in the morning in time for the sunrise, then head to Dolci or Konaki for coffee and breakfast, before going for a swim to Seralia, the secluded beach underneath, or to the nearby beach of Poulati. Then visit the church of Panagia Poulati overlooking the Aegean.

Tip 4: Watch the sunset at the port of Kamares

Located on the west coast of the island, Kamares is the port of Sifnos. Despite the ferries, it is a great swimming spot (awarded the Blue Flag) and home to several beach bars; my favorite are the ones further away from the port: Folie and Isalos. I remember early evenings patiently waiting for the sun to dive into the sea, before I did the same myself. All the while, I was downing cocktails listening to Demis Roussos, Brigitte Bardot, and Dean Martin, and secretly wishing I could just be there for the rest of my life…

Tip 5: Go to the beach

The fishing village of Herronisos (also spelt Cherronisos) on the far north end of the island is not only a fantastic swimming spot, but also home to the waterside fish-tavern of the same name. The winding road from Apollonia offers spectacular views of the northeast coast of the island. From the church of Agios Giorgios on the top of a nearby hill, you can see the island of Serifos; it’s also a beautiful place to watch the sunset from.

Not far from Herronisos, you'll find Vroulidia, another beautiful beach, as well as the church of Agios Filippos. They both face west, so you can add them to your list of places to watch the sunset from.

On the opposite side of the island, there’s the monastery of Hrysopigi (also spelt Chrysopigi), one of the top attractions of Sifnos (it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out why). Built on a tiny islet just off the southeast coast of the island, it is one of the most Instagrammable places on the island. There are several (not organized) beaches on either side of the monastery; the one on the left (Apokofto) is home to the tavern Lempesis, whereas Saoures on the right is a bit more secluded. Whichever you choose, the beautiful monastery will stand tall in the background. Further to the east, there are several beaches worth visiting (Faros, Fasolou and Glyfo), whereas to the west, there’s Platys Gialos.

This is a large and organized beach (albeit not to the same extent as in Halkidiki) on the south coast of Sifnos. It is home to several beach bars (Notos was the one I chose and I would recommend), and also to Omega 3. This is a modern seaside bar-restaurant, amongst the most famous on the island. Fish and seafood may be the stars on the menu here, but items such as sushi and ceviche hint at a departure from traditional Cycladic cuisine. Due to the popularity and the small size of the venue, make sure you reserve a table (or a stool).

From Platys Gialos, you can drive to the beach of Vathy on the west coast. You can also get there directly from Apollonia.

In addition to the taverns and restaurants already mentioned, I would also recommend the seaside fish taverns - present on most beaches of the island.

Tip 6: Follow the trails

A relatively small island, Sifnos has more than 100km of hiking trails to get you off the beaten track and immerse yourself into the island. Spring and autumn is probably the best time for hiking, as summer can be too hot, especially at midday. There are ten designated trails; six are considered easy, the remaining four moderate. With the exception of the trail ‘Wuthering North’ (around Herronisos), all the trails are longer than 5km each. The starting point for most of them is near Apollonia (‘Wuthering North’ is once again an exception). They then spread towards the main settlements and beaches of the island. Three trails are coastal:

1. ‘The Eternal Capitals’: a trail that takes you from the village of Artemonas to the church of Panagia Poulati, then to Kastro and to the Holy Monastery of Vrysi before finishing at the archaeological site of Agios Andreas (open from Tuesday to Sunday from 8:30 to 15.00). 2. ‘Towards the Miraculous Saint’: a 6km long trail connecting Kastro with the monastery of Hrysopigi. 3. ‘Cedars, Olive Trees and the Sea’: a loop trail connecting the beaches of Platys Gialos and Vathy. This trail of moderate difficulty takes you to the chapel of Profitis Ilias Kondou and right by a small islet, where the chapel of Kitriani, the oldest on the island, is located.

Other trails are:

1. ‘The Agricultural Road’: starting from Apollonia, this trail takes you south either to Platys Gialos or the monastery of Hrysopigi. Either way, you will pass by the church of Staopodi and the Holy Monastery of Vrysi. 2. ‘The Hidden Sides of Sifnos’: a fairly long trail connecting Apollonia with Vathy on the west coast of the island. 3. ‘Sifnos Insiders’: setting off from Apollonia, this is the longest trail and possibly the most interesting. You can hike all the way to Kamares, or back to Apollonia. Meanwhile, you’ll probably lose count of the number of churches and monasteries you’ll come across. 4. ‘The Pilgrimage Route’: starting from either Apollonia or Artemonas, you will end up at the inland chapel of Agios Symeon. 5. ‘The Route of the Mines’: setting off from Artemonas, you’ll hike north along the east coast of Sifnos until you reach the church of Agios Sostis. Meanwhile, you’ll enjoy panoramic views of the Aegean on your right. 6. ‘The Cursed Trail’: another trail connecting Apollonia with the port of Kamares. It used to be an old donkey route!

If you’re not very keen on walking, you could explore the island trails on a horse.

A different way to explore Sifnos would be by boat; you can rent one and access the coastal villages, beaches and coves by sea.

Tip 7: Discover the art of pottery

Take a walk around Sifnos and you won’t fail to notice the elaborate ceramics; I was particularly struck by the urns. The art of pottery dates back to the antiquity. Findings from those times are exhibited in the Archaeological Museum, located in Kastro (open daily from 9.00 to 16.00). Exhibits date from the Geometric to the Hellenistic period (8th-2nd century BC). In modern times, pottery remains very much alive; there are numerous workshops and shops all around the island. Locals still use ceramics (such as cooking pots) in their everyday lives, but also to decorate their houses (urns and plates). Get your hands dirty and learn this traditional craft by taking a pottery class.

How to get to Sifnos

Sifnos has no airport. There are daily ferries from Piraeus (the port of Athens) to Kamares; Seajets is the fastest at two hours and 20 minutes (approx. 50 euros). There are also ferries from other Cycladic islands, such as the neighboring Serifos, as well as Folegandros and Santorini, which has an airport. Check out the ferries timetable here.

Renting a car is recommended; in peak season, do this well in advance. In case you’ve decided not to rent a car, there are regular bus services from Kamares to Apollonia and also to the beaches.

Accommodation in Sifnos

Apollonia is the most convenient place to stay; you could rent a room or a house/apartment there.

I would recommend staying there for at least four days.

Skyros

The island of wellness & wellbeing

My home country, Greece, has 6,000 islands of which 227 are inhabited. Having been to a dozen of them, I am often asked to provide tips and inside information. When people ask me which Greek island is my favorite, or which one to visit (a frequently asked but rather difficult question to answer), Skyros is always the first to come to mind. I have to admit that I am somewhat biased, as this is my late grandfather’s home island; not only I have precious memories of spending my early childhood summers there, I also have beloved relatives still living on the island. For this reason, I’ve visited Skyros more times than any other island, which is why I am convinced it really is the best Greek island to visit.

Here are 9 reasons why:

Reason 1: Wellness and wellbeing

Skyros is a great place to unwind, relax and enjoy some peace and quiet. One may argue that most Greek islands are such places. True. However, there is a very good reason why Skyros tops that list. The island is home to Skyros Center, Europe's first course-based holiday center, which is unsurprisingly included in the Wellness Escapes. Located in Atsitsa in the north-western part of the island, it is one of the 4 retreats in Greece featured in the Lonely Planet edition. Now in its 41st year, Skyros Center offers yoga, health and wellbeing retreats, but also art and writing courses.

Reason 2: Writing and literature

I bet most people do not associate writing and literature with Greek islands. Yet, Skyros is so much more than a holiday destination. It has been a magnet for intellectuals, hippies, and hipsters for decades. The reason? Here lies the olive grove where the English poet Rupert Brooke was buried during the First World War, when the Tris Boukes bay was used as an anchorage for hospital ships treating the wounded from Gallipoli. A century later, the Statue of an Ideal Poet, erected in memory of the famous Englishman, stands tall high above the Aegean in a small square that bears his name. Also known as the Square of Eternal Poetry, it offers a panoramic view of the popular beaches of Magazia, Molos, and Gyrismata.

Reason 3: Culture and history

Right next to the Square of Eternal Poetry, there’s the Archaeological Museum with finds from the island’s excavation sites dating from the Early Helladic (2.800- 1.900 BC) to the period of Roman occupation (1st century AD). The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday (08.00 - 15.00); the standard admission fee costs only 2 euros.

Next door to the Archaeological Museum, there’s the historical and folk art Manos Faltaits Museum, one of the first of its kind in Greece. Housed in a mansion, it exhibits traditional and contemporary folk art items, such as embroideries, costumes, ceramics, and furniture, for which Skyros is famous. Other exhibits include historical documents and publications, as well as paintings. The museum is open daily from 10.00 to 14.00 and from 18.00 to 21.00; the standard admission fee costs only 2 euros.

Palamari, on the northeastern coast of the island close to the airport, is an archaeological site dating back to the Early Helladic period. It is one of the most important prehistoric settlements of the Aegean.

Reason 4: Hora, the heart and soul of Skyros

Like with many other Greek islands, Hora is the name of the capital and main settlement of Skyros. Built on the slopes of a hill overlooking the Aegean, Hora is the heart and soul of the island. Since Skyros is relatively isolated (compared to most Greek islands anyway) and quite unknown to foreign visitors, it has not been affected by mass tourism. It has managed to preserve its authenticity and traditions throughout the years and this makes it an ideal summer destination for those wanting to escape the crowds of Mykonos, Santorini or Crete.

Yet, in the summer, Hora really comes to life. Follow Megali Strata towards either the Square of Eternal Poetry or the Kastro (see next reason). Whilst strolling around the snarl of cobblestone alleys that make up the village, breathe in the soft yet distinctive aroma of jasmine, wander between the whitewashed houses and several churches and chapels, and have a pitstop at one of the many taverns, cafes, ice-cream parlors or funky cocktail bars (check out reason 9 for details). Then walk up to the monastery of St George to admire panoramic views of Hora and the Aegean surrounding the island.

Reason 5: The Castle and the monastery

Dedicated to the patron saint of Skyros and proudly overlooking the island, the Greek Orthodox monastery of St George is located inside the Kastro (Castle), a Byzantine fortress originally built to defend against pirate attacks. Walking up to the monastery is easier than one may imagine; trust me, my 90-year-old great aunt Anna has no difficulty in going there. The path is clearly sign-posted; you could start your ascend from either Hora’s main square or the Square of Eternal Poetry. The monastery is open to the public between 10.30 and 12.30 in the morning and from 6.30 to 8.30 in the evening.

Reason 6: Beaches and sea

Located in the middle of the Aegean, Skyros is the largest and southernmost of the Sporades islands (the other three of the group are Skiathos, Skopelos, and Alonisos). In the northern part of the island, there’s the village of Hora, the airport and the port of Linaria, as well as many easily accessible beaches.

On the east coast of the island and within walking distance from Hora, there’s the long and sandy beach of Magazia (the southernmost part) and Molos (the northernmost part). Home to a number of beach restaurant-bars and seaside taverns (see reason 9), this beach offers a wonderful view of Hora. Halfway between Molos and the beach of Gyrismata, there’s the bar Anemomylos, one of my favorites on the island.

On the west coast of Skyros, there’s the port of Linaria. South of it, there’s the beach of Kalamitsa, whereas north of the port, there’s the beach of Aherounes.

North of Axerounes, there’s my favorite beach of the island, Pefkos. Here you’ll find a beautiful bay with crystal clear waters surrounded by pine-covered slopes (pefkos is Greek for pine), a lovely beach bar and Stamatia’s tavern. Enough said, I think.

From there, there’s a mountainous drive towards the beaches of Atsitsa and Kyra-Panagia, my great aunt Anna’s favorite beach. Skyros Center is also located there.

Reason 7: The Skyrian Horse

The Skyrian Horse is a breed of miniature horse unique to Skyros. One of the rarest horse breeds in the world, the Skyrian Horse is a protected species; only a couple of hundred horses now remain. Once also found in mainland Greece, nowadays, they can only be found in Skyros (either in the wild or in farms). Standing just 3.2 to 3.6 feet (90 to 100 cm) tall, they are commonly but mistakenly referred to as ponies.

Reason 8: Folk art and Carnival

Skyros is famous for its folk art: embroideries, red ceramics, and carved wooden furniture; these can be admired at the museums mentioned above, but they can also be purchased across the island.

It is also famous for its Carnival, which takes place in February/early March; in Greece, the Carnival season is the 3 weeks preceding the 40-day fast leading up to the Greek Orthodox Easter. In Skyros, men wander around wearing black capes and white trousers with clanging goat bells hanging from their belts.

Reason 9: Eat and drink

My favorite Skyrian delicacy is ladopita, bread baked with olive oil, with locally produced sour cheese (xynotyri). It is served for breakfast or as a side to the main course. Other locally-produced and equally delicious cheeses are graviera and mizithra.

Astakomakaronada (lobster spaghetti) is arguably the most famous Skyrian dish. Stefanos’ seaside tavern at Magazia is famous for it; once you have the first bite, you will understand why. Other seaside taverns I would recommend are Stamatia’s at Pefkos and O Mylos tou Mpalampani at Molos.

Back in Hora, there are lots of taverns, serving not only fish seafood, but also meat dishes. O Pappous mou ki Ego and Manna mou stand out. With Skyros being a mountainous island, its cuisine is not limited to fish and seafood; goat dishes are served in most taverns. Whilst having seafood by the sea makes perfect sense, it equally feels natural not to when having a meal inland.

After dinner, stop at Hiotis’ or at Faltaina’s for takeaway dessert, or ice-cream. I would recommend amygdaloto – a marzipan-based bite-size dessert, or even the ice-cream of the same flavor.

It’s then time for a cocktail or two; Hora is not short of choice. Most of the bars are all day café-bars and they’re open from early morning to … early morning; however, they may be closed in the afternoon when the day is at its hottest, so check the opening times before visiting. Akamatra and Agora, both situated by the main square, really come to life in the late evening; their roofs are not to be missed as they offer a wonderful view of the Castle and the monastery.

If you follow Megali Strata uphill, you will come across the café-bar Rodon, which also has a roof. Oino is another excellent choice for cocktails, whereas café Kalypso (almost opposite) is best to visit in the morning or before dinner. Continuing past the Square of Eternal Poetry, there’s the all-day café-restaurant- bar Anatolikos Anemos, also best to visit during the day (breakfast anyone?) to admire the view of the Aegean.

Most of the island’s nightlife is in Hora, yet it is by no means limited there. Halfway between Molos and the beach of Gyrismata, there’s the bar Anemomylos, one of my favorites on the island. For something more alternative/hipster, there’s Korfari at Magazia. There are also a number of bars (and taverns, too) at the port of Linaria, an ideal place to watch the sunset from.

How to get to Skyros

You can fly to Skyros directly from Athens or Thessaloniki (regular flights, 30 minutes), or arrive via ferry from Evia (regular daily services, 90 minutes), or from the other Sporades islands. Once on the island, renting a car is highly recommended.

Unlike the other islands I’ve mentioned, which are all part of the Cyclades group, Skyros is part of the Sporades group. It can easily be combined with the other islands of the group: Skiathos, Skopelos, and Alonissos.

Accommodation in Skyros

Most hotels and rooms to rent are located in Molos or Gyrismata. During my last visit, I stayed at Nemire Luxury Residences in Molos, right by the sea. They include a villa, individual rooms to rent, and studios; they’re all self-catered and full with character.

I would recommend staying in Skyros for at least four days.

Itinerary 1

Santorini Amorgos Koufonisia Mykonos

The 13-day itinerary I describe here is slightly different to the one I followed a couple of years ago, and it is the one I would have followed had I had the insight that I now have. Start in Santorini, and then take the ferry to Amorgos. From there, continue to Koufonisia and finally to Mykonos. I would recommend spending at least three nights on each island. You could start on a Monday, which takes you through to Saturday of the following week. Alternatively, you could start on a Sunday and this will take you through to Friday. Either way you could combine your island-hopping holiday with a couple of nights in Athens before and after.

Day 1 (Monday) – Santorini

In the summer, there are plenty of direct flights to Santorini from Europe (as well as from mainland Greece). There are also daily ferries from Athens; the fastest ones take about five to five and a half hours and arrive midday (SeaJets, approx. 60-70 euros; Hellenic Seaways, approx. 60 euros).

To kick your holiday off the beaten track and avoid the crowds, rent a car and drive to Pyrgos Kallistis (or simply Pyrgos), a village built amphitheatrically at the highest point of the southernmost island of the Cyclades. You know what comes next: panoramic views of the whole island (not just the caldera). This is simply the perfect place to watch the sunset that Santorini (or Thira as is also known as) is worldwide famous for.

Afterwards, stroll through the narrow, labyrinthine streets, and then experience the Greek hospitality and local cuisine at Penelope’s Ouzeri, a small traditional eatery, or at Brusco ‘wine. coffee. deli’. Try the ntomatokeftedes (tomato balls/fritters), the locally-produced cheese (hlorotyri) and homemade desserts. Then, go to the SantoWines Winery (another good place to watch the sunset from) and try the island’s wine. Santorini and Vinsanto are both made from the indigenous grape Assyrtiko; the latter is a sweet dessert wine.

Day 2 (Tuesday) – Santorini

Start at the southwest coast of the island. Here you will find the archaeological site of Akrotiri, an ancient Minoan city that had been buried beneath volcanic ash from 1,650 B.C. up until 1967. It is estimated that the settlement was constructed around 4,500 B.C. Get there early to avoid the crowds.

From Akrotiri Beach, you can take a caique to Aspri (White) and Mavri (Black) Beach, or you can walk to Kokkini (Red) Beach and swim against the backdrop of red cliffs.

Then have lunch (fresh seafood of course) at Spilia tou Nikola (The Cave of Nikolas), a seaside fish tavern within walking distance from Akrotiri. Try the locally-produced fava (yellow split-peas) and white eggplants – delicious appetizers not normally found elsewhere in Greece.

In the evening, make your way to Oia, one of the two main settlements on the west coast of the island (Fira is the other one). Built on a steep slope of the caldera, this charming hilltop village is worldwide famous for its sunsets and can often be overcrowded with tourists. Wander around the narrow streets and admire the blue-domed churches before you stop at Atlantis Books, a bookstore that is now considered among the must-visit places in Oia. Panagia of Platsani, Saint George and Panagia Agion Panton are among the most beautiful churches and also worth a visit. Sun Spirit is a good place to sit down, enjoy a cocktail and watch the iconic sunset.

Day 3 (Wednesday) – Santorini

Wake up early and stroll around Oia first thing in the morning, as this is when it tends to be at its quietest.

Go swimming in Vlyhada, a beach on the south coast of the island, where you can also have lunch at one of the waterside taverns around the picturesque harbor. Then have a cocktail at Theros Wave Bar, an all-day beach bar.

In the evening, go to Fira, another hilltop village on the west coast of the island. Escape the crowds and walk along the caldera-edge pathway towards the villages of Firostefani (15-minute walk from Fira) and Imerovigli (half an hour walk from Fira). Watch the sunset at the small church of Agios Georgios, or at Volkan On The Rock, a café-bar that serves coffee, as well as excellent food and cocktails (the menu is by Ergon Greek Deli & Cuisine). You can even watch a movie there, at the open-air cinema.

Another open-air cinema is Kamari, situated in the village of the same name, on the east coast of the island. Watching a movie under a sky full of stars is one of my favorite things to do in Greece in the summer, and I would highly recommend you try it.

Finally, have dinner at Metaxi Mas, a restaurant at the inland village Exo Gonia, that many consider the best one on the island. It may not be on the cliff edge, but it still offers panoramic views.

After dinner, go back to Fira, to the Kira Thira Jazz Bar.

Day 4 (Thursday) – Santorini – Amorgos

Continue your island-hopping adventure, and take the ferry to Amorgos; the journey is an hour on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays (SeaJets, approx. 50 euros), but considerably longer on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Amorgos is neither as famous nor as crowded as Santorini, but is popular with the French, since it featured in Luc Besson’s film ‘Le Grand Bleu’ (‘The Big Blue’).

The main port of the island is Katapola. Here you can rent a car, but before you drive away, have a meal at one of the several seaside taverns at either side of the little port: Capetan Dimos on the side where the ferries arrive, or Almyriki and Vitsentzos on the opposite side. Try some seafood dishes (it couldn’t get any fresher) or the local specialty patatato (goat with potatoes) along with some Amorgean white wine. Afterward, enjoy a refreshing cinnamon-based drink at Moonbar (very close to Almyriki and Vitsentzos).

As well as its local produce and cuisine, and its role in the French cult-classic, Amorgos is also renowned for its hiking trails, which not only connect the island’s villages and settlements, but also provide access to ecclesiastical and natural landmarks, and several archaeological sites (Minoa, Arkesini and Vigla), which you could visit over the following days.

One of these trails, Fotodotis, connects Katapola with Hora, the capital and one of the main settlements of the island. This ascending path is rather short and easy, so if your accommodation is at Katapola (like mine was), why not walk to Hora? Start your ascend not long before sunset, so you can watch the sun diving into the deep blue waters of the Aegean.

In Hora, you will be welcomed with a palette of colours: blushing bougainvilleas climb the walls of white-washed houses and blue-domed churches and chapels, with their doors and window shutters painted blue, red or green, matching the chairs and tables scattered around the cobblestone alleys.

Day 5 (Friday) – Amorgos

Start your day with a coffee at Kallisto, a little café-patisserie in Hora, which you will undoubtedly visit again. The reason? Their fragrant and moist portokalopita (orange pie) indulgently served with vanilla ice-cream.

Walk past the windmills at the edge of Hora towards the landmark of Amorgos, the Greek-Orthodox monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa. Built by Byzantine emperor Alexius Comnenus I in the 11th century, this whitewashed monastery is wedged into a cliff face 300 metres above the sea. Climb the nearly 300 steps, walk through the low marble doorway and take the staircase that leads to the chapel where treasures and icons are kept. You will be rewarded with a vertiginous yet panoramic view of the Mediterranean, complimentary rose- flavoured loukoumi (Greek Turkish delight) and psimeni raki (raki with honey and spices) offered by the monks. From there, descend towards the pebble beach of Agia Anna. Here the waves splash against a rock, which a chapel of the same name is built on. It’s then time to dive into the deep blue Aegean.

In the afternoon, drive south to Kalotaritissa. On your way there, you will catch glimpse of the rusty shipwreck ‘Inland’ now known as ‘Olympia’, which has been lying at the small bay of Livero for the last 40 years. Continue towards Kalotaritissa; a rainbow of fishing boats anchored in the small bay will soon appear. A little café on the semi-organised sandy beach serves tyropita (cheese pie) and mpougatsa (filo pastry with custard). Hop on the boat taxi, which will take you to the uninhabited islet of Gramvousa. Walk past the small chapel, and you will find yourself in a secluded beach.

Spend your evening in Hora. Have a meal at Tranzistoraki (try their pancetta with fig marmalade), followed by a cocktail at next-door Botilia, or another slice of portokalopita at Kallisto!

Day 6 (Saturday) – Amorgos

Drive north to Aegiali. A wonderful drive along a winding road will bring you to this small village, where you can embark on one of the most scenic and beautiful hiking trails on the island. Walk past the small church of Agia Barbara towards Agios Theologos. Dedicated to John the Evangelist and built on the site of an ancient temple, this beautiful Byzantine monastery dates back to the 7th century. Continue on the precariously narrow path towards the beautiful chapel of Stavros, situated above an old bauxite mine. The trail ends up at the summit of mount Krikelos, the highest point of Amorgos. The view is compensation: from here you can see the whole island and the endless Aegean Sea.

On your way back, follow the stone-paved path towards Panagia Epanohoriani. Before you, the old church stands tall; behind you lies the islet of Nikouria. Stop at the charming old-fashioned mountain village Tholaria, to savour a Greek coffee at Kali Kardia, an old-style café-ouzo-mezedopolio (place that serves coffee, ouzo and mezedes). Try their meatballs.

Continue to Aegiali beach. There you will find DISCOtheQUE (simply Q for the locals), an all-day beach bar where teenagers sip iced coffees, which will later turn to beers and cocktails, as the day turns to night.

Day 7 (Sunday) – Amorgos – Koufonisia

On your last day in Amorgos, why not follow Jacques’ and Enzo’s example and go diving? There are two diving centres: Amorgos Diving Center in Aegiali, and We Shall Sea in Katapola.

Alternatively, go swimming in Maltezi. You can reach this secluded beach either by boat taxi from Katapola, or on foot.

In the afternoon (or evening, if there is not an afternoon service on the day of your travel), take the ferry to Koufonisia (‘Hollow Islands’). Located between Amorgos and Naxos, this is a group of three islands: Ano (or Pano) Koufonisi (‘Upper Hollow Island’), Kato Koufonisi (‘Lower Hollow Island’) and Keros. Interestingly, when Greeks say ‘Koufonisia’, they usually refer to Ano Koufonisi, perhaps because it is the only one of the three which is inhabited. The journey from Amorgos to Ano Koufonisi usually takes less than an hour; yet, this tiny island is considered remote and, cliché as it may sound, a hidden gem, off the beaten track or undiscovered paradise, even for Greeks and Italians, who are the main visitors (SeaJets, 14 euros; Hellenic Seaways, 22 euros; Blue Star Ferries, 6.50 euros; no afternoon or evening service on Fridays).

Hora is the island’s only village and spreads out behind the ferry quay. Wander along the main street towards the small harbor of Loutro. Have dinner at the seaside tavern Karnagio, where the octopuses hang to dry before they are grilled over charcoal. Or, at Capetan Nikolas, another waterside tavern. Then, have a cocktail (or perhaps even a shot of rakomelo) at the bar Scholio. Take a look at the interior of the bar, to admire photographs taken by the owners.

Day 8 (Monday) – Koufonisia

Today’s the day for beach-hopping. Start walking anti-clockwise towards the beach of Pori; even though the distance from Hora to Pori is only 3.5 km, beach- hopping is more of a day-long activity.

First stop is Finikas, where a beach bar may tempt you to stay. Inviting as this may be, continue towards Fanos and Platia Pounta. The latter, also known as Italida, is a nudist beach; however, many prefer not to bare it all and still enjoy its golden sand and azure waters. From there, walk along the cliff path towards Pori; you will pass by the small caves, one of the most famous sights of the island. Piscina (Pool), or Devil’s Eye, is the one that attracts the biggest crowd – diving from the top of the cave into the naturally formed pool.

At Pori, have lunch at the cozy restaurant Kalofeggo, before you continue to the secluded by the caves ‘beach’ Gala. This is slightly tricky to find, as you can only see it once you are actually there. In the evening, join a ‘yoga by the beach’ session (10 euros).

Afterwards, take the inland road, or hop on a boat taxi, back to Hora. Be prepared to queue for Souvlaki sti Strofi; this is a small corner eatery famous for its delicious souvlaki (grilled meat on a skewer served inside pitta bread). The seating area is limited, but souvlaki is best enjoyed as take-away anyway. If you’d rather have a sit-down meal, try the elegant restaurant Gastronautis.

After dinner, have a cocktail and dance the night away at the bar Sorokos. Overlooking the harbor, it is a popular choice among the young visitors, comfortably sat on colorful cushions at the cliff edge. Mylos (‘Windmill’) is another bar offering a panoramic view of the harbor.

Day 9 (Tuesday) – Koufonisia

Take the boat taxi to Kato Koufonisi and spend the day there. Get off at Nero, one of the few beaches on this uninhabited island. Have lunch at the tavern Venetsanos, before you take the boat back to Ano Koufonisi.

Koufonisia Classical Music Festival takes place in July and August; this summer there are six concerts approximately one week apart (most of them fall on Wednesdays though). The festival features both Greek and international artists.

Day 10 (Wednesday) – Koufonisia – Mykonos

Begin your day by having breakfast at Kalamia, an all-day café-bar. In the afternoon, take the high-speed ferry to Mykonos; the journey takes one and a half hour (services run on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays only; SeaJets, 55.80 euros). You will arrive at the New Port, north of Hora (the main town on the island). Hire a car to make your life much easier.

I have to admit that I thought Mykonos as little more than a party island destination and a celebrity-magnet. However, the first time I set foot on this cosmopolitan island, Hora simply took me by surprise. I remember wandering around the narrow, labyrinthine alleyways, taking pictures of cats napping, or of the blushing bougainvilleas climbing up the walls of the whitewashed houses, churches and chapels. Even though I am not religious, I was mesmerized by the Church of Panagia Paraportiani and the Life Giving Spring Orthodox Metropolitan Church.

Past the expensive boutiques, jewelry shops and galleries, make your way to the waterfront of Little Venice, a great place to watch the sunset. Bao’s, Negrita, Semeli and Galleraki are all charming bars, where you can enjoy fantastic cocktails and views of the sunset, the windmills and the 18th-century fishing houses with their balconies overhanging the water. The picturesque Goumeniou Square is a must-go place for dinner. I’ve had dinner at Familia, and at the nearby Lucky Fish, both times followed by ice cream at Kayak.

Day 11 (Thursday) – Mykonos

There are a number of beaches on the island, but the most famous ones (where the celebrities hang out and the beach parties take place) are on the south-west coast. Having a car and a more-than-average budget to spend will both come handy. Psarou, Paraga, Paradise and Super Paradise are the best-known and most expensive ones and they are all organized. Sunbeds may cost a small fortune, but the combination of crystalline waters, signature summer cocktails and luxurious atmosphere is compensation. Psarou is home to the renowned restaurant Nammos, whereas Super Paradise is home to JackieO’ Beach Club and Restaurant. Enjoy the dazzling turquoise waters, then join the party and dance till late.

The parties continue in Hora, where there are a number of gay-friendly bars and clubs, such as the waterfront JackieO’ Town Bar and Babylon, overlooking the Old Port, as well as Porta, off a narrow alleyway.

Day 12 (Friday) – Mykonos

Go on a guided tour to the nearby, uninhabited island of Delos. The boat journey takes only half an hour. Delos is located two kilometres west of Mykonos; yet, it feels like you’re going a thousand miles away from the buzz of Mykonos. The mythical birthplace of Apollo and Artemis, Delos is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important historical and archaeological sites in Greece.

Later in the evening, you could watch a movie at the open-air cinema Manto in Hora.

Day 13 (Saturday) – Mykonos

Spend as much of your last day of your island-hopping holiday in Hora. Start with a coffee at Passo Doble, an all-day café-bar; then wander towards the windmills. Have lunch (preferably souvlaki or gyros) at Sakis Grill House. Perhaps, have another coffee (or even an afternoon cocktail) in Little Venice, before you wave goodbye to the Cyclades. If you’re as lucky as I was, you will come across the famous pelican of the island.

In the summer, there are plenty of direct flights from Mykonos to Europe (as well as to mainland Greece). Alternatively, there are ferries to Athens; the fastest takes almost 3 hours (SeaJets, approx. 60 euros).

Itinerary 2

Serifos Sifnos Folegandros Santorini

Here’s an alternative 2-week itinerary. Starting from Athens, it will take you to four Cycladic islands: Serifos, Sifnos, Folegandros, and finally Santorini.

Day 1 – Piraeus (Athens) to Serifos

Take the ferry from Piraeus (the port of Athens) to Serifos; Seajets and Aegean Speed are the fastest at two hours (approx. 45-50 euros). Renting a car is recommended (in peak season, do this well in advance). In case you’ve decided not to rent a car, there are regular bus services on the island.

The port of Livadi is a lively village home to some excellent waterfront restaurants and taverns. Kali’s is one of the most famous; the dish that really stood out was the salad (Salata Krasiou): green leaves topped with caramelized figs, pomegranate seeds, manouri cheese, and red wine vinaigrette. Another restaurant I’d recommend is Ydrolithos, located on a rooftop terrace. After dinner, have a cocktail at the rooftop bar Shark, or at the Yacht Club, the locals’ favorite.

Day 2 – Serifos

Like with many other Greek islands, Hora is the name of the capital of Serifos. Built on the slopes of a hill, it is a whitewashed village overlooking the port of Livadi and all the while offering panoramic views of the Aegean Sea.

Start your day at Pano Piatsa, Hora’s main square. Here you’ll find the neoclassical town hall and the Greek Orthodox church of Agios Athanasios, as well as colorful chairs and tables from the cozy cafes around the square. The turquoise ones are from Stou Stratou, the khaki ones from Piazza; both cafes are excellent choices for breakfast, brunch or coffee. Make sure you try pastaki, the chocolate dessert that Serifos is famous for.

Then walk up to Kastro (Castle) and to the chapel of Agios Konstantinos to enjoy the most panoramic views of the island.

Then go to the beach. One of the most famous and my personal favorite is Agios Sostis. For this east-facing beach takes its name from the chapel overlooking the small bay. The beach is neither organized nor has any facilities (whether a beach bar, tavern or even a canteen); so make sure you bring a beach towel, a book, food, and water.

Finish off the day where it all started: in Hora. There are several bars here inviting you to join the lively crowd and enjoy a cocktail under the moonlight sky. Vatrahos, Gaidaros, and Aerino are all great choices. In the peak season, some of these bars open early in the day to also serve brunch.

Day 3 – Serifos

Vagia is another beach, located on the south coast of Serifos. Here you can find a small beach bar offering snacks and refreshing cocktails.

In the evening, return to Hora, and take the path that goes down to Livadi. You will pass by a number of blue-domed churches and chapels (I actually lost count). Half-way down, there’s Aloni, a restaurant offering traditional Cycladic food and wonderful views of the port down below. Perfect pitstop to watch the sunset from and enjoy the local cuisine.

Day 4 – Serifos to Sifnos

Take the ferry to Sifnos; Seajets and Aegean Speed are the fastest at 25 minutes (15 euros). Renting a car is recommended (in peak season, do this well in advance). In case you’ve decided not to rent a car, there are regular bus services on the island.

The port of Kamares is a great swimming spot (awarded the Blue Flag) and home to several beach bars; my favorite are the ones further away from the port: Folie and Isalos. I remember early evenings patiently waiting for the sun to dive into the sea, before I did the same myself. All the while, I was downing cocktails listening to Demis Roussos, Brigitte Bardot, and Dean Martin, and secretly wishing I could just be there for the rest of my life…

Day 5 – Sifnos

Apollonia, the capital of Sifnos, is an inland village in the middle of the island, a few minutes drive from the port of Kamares. Steno (which means ‘narrow’ in Greek) is the name of the main (pedestrianized) street, lined with a great number of restaurants and café-bars. It is a wonderful place to kick off your day; however, it is later in the evening when it transforms into a catwalk and really comes alive.

Make your way to the monastery of Hrysopigi (also spelled Chrysopigi), one of the top attractions of Sifnos (it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out why). Built on a tiny islet just off the southeast coast of the island, it is one of the most Instagrammable places on the island. There are several (not organized) beaches on either side of the monastery; the one on the left (Apokofto) is home to the tavern Lempesis, whereas Saoures on the right is a bit more secluded. Whichever you choose, the beautiful monastery will stand tall in the background.

In the evening, return to Apollonia. With Sifnos being the island of Greek gastronomy, its capital is by no means short of restaurants. Kafeneio Drakakis and Tou Apostoli To Koutouki are traditional taverns with excellent Cycladic dishes, whereas Cayenne Restaurant Art Gallery lies on the more modern end of the spectrum. Both the food and the location are gorgeous. Tou Apostoli To Koutouki has a roof terrace offering wonderful views of the Church of Taxiarhes opposite; Kafeneio Drakakis, on the other hand, has tables off the street perfectly located for sitting back and people watching. As its name suggests, Cayenne Restaurant Art Gallery combines gastronomy with art.

Day 6 – Sifnos

Platys Gialos is a large and organized beach (albeit not to the same extent as in Halkidiki) on the south coast of Sifnos. It is home to several beach bars (Notos was the one I chose and I would recommend), and also to Omega 3. This is a modern seaside bar-restaurant, amongst the most famous on the island. Fish and seafood may be the stars on the menu here, but items such as sushi and ceviche hint at a departure from traditional Cycladic cuisine. Due to the popularity and the small size of the venue, make sure you reserve a table (or a stool).

In the evening, go to Kastro, a traditional village (dating back to 3000 BC) and the old capital of Sifnos. Sat on top of a hill, it is located 3 km east of Apollonia. Wander around the narrow alleyways and the whitewashed houses (most of them date back to the Venetian times), but make sure you find your way to the Church of the Seven Martyrs, probably the most Instagrammable spot on the island. Sat on a rock, it reminded me of the Church of Agios Ioannis Kastri, on the island of Skopelos, where Meryl Streep got married to Pierce Brosnan in Mamma Mia! Walk around the small church for breath-taking views of the Aegean, before heading back to Kastro to enjoy a meal at Nea Lontzia or a mojito at Cavo Sunriso, an island institution. Then continue to Dolci for a late- night cocktail at the bougainvillea-shaded terrace.

Day 7 – Sifnos

The fishing village of Herronisos (also spelled Cherronisos) on the far north end of the island is not only a fantastic swimming spot, but also home to the waterside fish-tavern of the same name. The winding road from Apollonia offers spectacular views of the northeast coast of the island. From the church of Agios Giorgios on the top of a nearby hill, you can see the island of Serifos; it’s also a beautiful place to watch the sunset from.

Return to Apollonia for dessert and drinks. Stop at the patisserie 3 Xanthoi Aggeloi for loukoumades (traditional Greek doughnuts, usually served with honey, cinnamon and ice-cream on the side). Then, it’s time for cocktails. Botzi, Mandolou, and Doloma are intimate all-day café-bars, whereas Argo and Cosi have terraces with beautiful views.

Day 8 – Sifnos to Folegandros

Take the ferry to Folegandros. On Sundays, Zante Ferries takes the least time (an hour and a half) and is also the cheapest (9 euros). Renting a car is not necessary; there are regular bus services on the island.

Hora, the charming inland capital of Folegandros, will be your base to explore the island. Built on the edge of a 200-meter high cliff, Hora is where the heart of the island beats. Ditch your map (if you have one) and simply wander around the village taking in the friendly atmosphere. Color-coded tables and chairs from the inviting taverns in the squares of the village (see tip 5) provide a picture-perfect backdrop. Then, stroll around Kastro, the oldest part of Hora, before you make your way to the church of Panagia (see tip 2). Some of the houses here are a thousand-year-old.

Dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, the whitewashed church of Panagia is the landmark of Folegandros. The ascending path is easy to climb (no more than 15 minutes from Hora), and it will reward you with panoramic views of the island. Evenings are the best time to visit, so you can watch the sunset.

Hora is no short of taverns. One of the most famous is I Piatsa; it is often fully packed, albeit for a very good reason. It scores top marks on both food and atmosphere.

After dinner, join the millennials for a drink or two in Hora. Baraki is a charming cocktail bar, whereas Astarti has a more retro vibe; try rakomelo, a traditional alcoholic drink made with raki, honey, and spices (cinnamon and cardamom).

Day 9 – Folegandros

Despite being a small island, Folegandros has a number of beaches perfect for swimming and sunbathing. Unlike Halkidiki, where the beaches are highly organized, or Sifnos, where you will find waterside taverns serving delicious food, beaches here have no such facilities (except for those close to the port of Karavostasis and the coastal village of Agali). So, come prepared. Your choice of beach will depend on the wind, so make sure you ask the locals first.

Katergo can be reached either by boat (10-minute ride from the port) (reason no 1 why this is my favorite beach on Folegandros), or on foot (30-minute walk from Karavostasis). There’s a small islet in the middle of the bay (reason no 2), where you can easily swim and then explore barefoot. Amongst the young crowd, you may spot a few naturalists at the far end of the beach (reason no 3 – I’m only joking!).

Day 10 – Folegandros

You can spend the day on the beach, or you can go hiking. Like Sifnos, Folegandros offers a few designated hiking trails:

From Hora, you can hike to the beach of Fira and then to Agali. On your way there, you will pass by the chapel of Agios Savvas and the church of Stavros. Jumping from terrace to terrace is also part of the route, and as fun as it sounds.

Or, you can follow the donkey trail from Hora to the village of Petousis, and then continue to the beach of Livadi and arrive at the port of Karavostasis.

The trails from Hora to the village of Ano Meria are longer; of those, the trail that passes by the beach of Livadaki is the longest, but very scenic. There’s another, shorter trail passing by the churches of Agia Paraskevi and Stavros.

From Ano Meria, there are quite a few trails worth following. You can walk towards the beach of Agios Georgios (bypassing the church of Agios Sostis), or to the beach of Ampeli (bypassing Agios Panteleimon). Another trail takes you to the beach of Livadaki and then to the Aspropounta lighthouse.

Day 11 – Folegandros to Santorini

Take the ferry to Santorini; Seajets and Golden Star are the fastest at 45 minutes (30 euros).

Get off the beaten track, avoid the crowds, rent a car and drive to Pyrgos Kallistis (or simply Pyrgos), a village built amphitheatrically at the highest point of the southernmost island of the Cyclades. You know what comes next: panoramic views of the whole island (not just the caldera). This is simply the perfect place to watch the sunset that Santorini (or Thira as is also known as) is worldwide famous for.

Afterwards, stroll through the narrow, labyrinthine streets, and then experience the Greek hospitality and local cuisine at Penelope’s Ouzeri, a small traditional eatery, or at Brusco ‘wine. coffee. deli’. Try the ntomatokeftedes (tomato balls/fritters), the locally-produced cheese (hlorotyri) and homemade desserts. Then, go to the SantoWines Winery (another good place to watch the sunset from) and try the island’s wine. Santorini and Vinsanto are both made from the indigenous grape Assyrtiko; the latter is a sweet dessert wine.

Day 12 – Santorini

Start at the southwest coast of the island. Here you will find the archaeological site of Akrotiri, an ancient Minoan city that had been buried beneath volcanic ash from 1,650 B.C. up until 1967. It is estimated that the settlement was constructed around 4,500 B.C. Get there early to avoid the crowds.

From Akrotiri Beach, you can take a caique to Aspri (White) and Mavri (Black) Beach, or you can walk to Kokkini (Red) Beach and swim at the backdrop of red cliffs.

Then have lunch (fresh seafood of course) at Spilia tou Nikola (The Cave of Nikolas), a seaside fish tavern within walking distance from Akrotiri. Try the locally-produced fava (yellow split-peas) and white eggplants – delicious appetizers not normally found elsewhere in Greece.

In the evening, make your way to Oia, one of the two main settlements on the west coast of the island (Fira is the other one). Built on a steep slope of the caldera, this charming hilltop village is worldwide famous for its sunsets and can often be overcrowded with tourists. Wander around the narrow streets and admire the blue-domed churches before you stop at Atlantis Books, a bookstore that is now considered among the must-visit places in Oia. Panagia of Platsani, Saint George and Panagia Agion Panton are among the most beautiful churches and also worth a visit. Sun Spirit is a good place to sit down, enjoy a cocktail and watch the iconic sunset.

Day 13 – Santorini

Wake up early and stroll around Oia first thing in the morning, as this is when it tends to be at its quietest.

Go swimming in Vlyhada, a beach on the south coast of the island, where you can also have lunch at one of the waterside taverns around the picturesque harbor. Then have a cocktail at Theros Wave Bar, an all-day beach bar.

In the evening, go to Fira, another hilltop village on the west coast of the island. Escape the crowds and walk along the caldera-edge pathway towards the villages of Firostefani (15-minute walk from Fira) and Imerovigli (half an hour walk from Fira). Watch the sunset at the small church of Agios Georgios, or at Volkan On The Rock, a café-bar that serves coffee, as well as excellent food and cocktails (the menu is by Ergon Greek Deli & Cuisine). You can even watch a movie there, at the open-air cinema.

Another open-air cinema is Kamari, situated in the village of the same name, on the east coast of the island. Watching a movie under a sky full of stars is one of my favorite things to do in Greece in the summer, and I would highly recommend you try it.

Finally, have dinner at Metaxi Mas, a restaurant at the inland village Exo Gonia, that many consider the best one on the island. It may not be on the cliff edge, but it still offers panoramic views.

After dinner, go back to Fira, to the Kira Thira Jazz Bar.

Day 14 – Departure from Santorini

All good things come to an end, and so does this holiday. If this was your first time island-hopping in the Cyclades, I’m pretty sure it won’t be the last.

Portokalopita (orange pie) from Amorgos

(with my own twist)

When I visited Amorgos, I came across Kallisto, an inviting little café-patisserie. I had a slice of portokalopita (orange pie), which was indulgently served with vanilla ice-cream.

Returning home, I set to re-create Kallisto’s portokalopita. A quick Google search brought me across a number of slightly different recipes and one question: which one should I choose? Some used Greek yogurt, others milk or cream; the number of eggs varied between three and five and so did the number of oranges. Despite their differences, however, there was one thing that all these recipes had in common: they all used filo pastry.

I managed to narrow it down to three recipes, all by chefs that I know and trust:

1. Argiro Barbarigou was the only chef who used marmalade in her recipe (I believe the recipe is available only in Greek). 2. In his version (Orange Phyllo Cake with Syrup), Akis Petretzikis, boiled the oranges for a couple of hours. He claimed to have tried over 20 different recipes before sharing his own. Yet, this version was by far the most complicated of the ones I came across. 3. In her recipe book ‘Vefa’s Kitchen’, Vefa Alexiadou, uses a version that appeared rather similar to the other ones I found online (my guess is that they were largely based on Vefa’s rather than the other way round).

At the end, I decided to go for Vefa’s recipe, but with a small tweak; I swapped the yogurt with kefir. I was first introduced to this fermented milk drink a few years ago, while on holidays (also) in Greece. Kefir is not only rich in nutrients, such as protein, calcium and vitamins, but it also contains probiotics. These live micro-organisms (bacteria and yeasts), often described as ‘good’ or ‘friendly’ bacteria, can have various health benefits. For example, they may help sufferers with indigestion, IBS (Irritable Bowel Syndrome) and lactose intolerance. Since kefir has recently become widely available in the UK, I’ve started using it in my recipes as a substitute for yogurt or even milk.

The end result was as fragrant and moist as Kallisto’s. And it took me back to Amorgos. My colleagues also enjoyed it to the extent that I had to later hand out copies of the recipe. And, here it is:

Ingredients:

1. 175 ml kefir 2. 2 packs of ready rolled filo pastry (approx. 450 grams) 3. 3 oranges 4. 4 eggs 5. 250 ml Greek olive oil 6. 600 grams caster sugar 7. 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 8. 2 tablespoons baking powder 9. Melted butter, for brushing 10. 350 ml water, for the syrup

Method:

1. Let the filo pastry dry (preferably overnight). 2. Once they are dry, cut them into small pieces. 3. Squeeze and grate the zest of the oranges. 4. Beat together half of the zest, the eggs, the olive oil, 100 grams caster sugar and the vanilla extract. 5. Mix the baking powder in the kefir, and stir into the egg mixture. 6. Stir the filo pieces into the egg mixture. 7. Brush a 25 x 30 cm baking pan with melted butter 8. Preheat the oven to 180 C (160 C fan). 9. Transfer the mixture into the baking pan. 10. Bake for 35 minutes, or until golden. 11. Meanwhile, make the syrup. In a pan, add the water, the squeezed orange juice, the remaining half of the zest, and the remaining sugar (500 grams). Bring to the boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Then, simmer for 5 minutes and, then, remove from the heat. 12. Pour the syrup over the pie, and let it stand for a couple of hours, before serving.

Enjoy it with vanilla ice-cream!

Kali Orexi! Bon Appétit!

Watermelon & Feta

Mykonos-inspired recipes

In Greece, the flavor combination of watermelon with feta cheese has always been there, so it would hardly be considered a ‘best-kept secret’. One of my childhood memories is my grandmother’s idea of an afternoon snack: a slice of watermelon served with some feta cheese. As a child, however, I never liked the latter, so I would always eat just the watermelon (and leave the feta on the plate).

I had my first taste of a watermelon and feta salad a few years ago, when I visited the cosmopolitan island of Mykonos and had dinner at the restaurant Lucky Fish. It simply tasted of summer. The sweetness of the watermelon gave such a lift to the saltiness of the feta, the star ingredient of the world-famous Greek salad, which I had already started to appreciate by then. Yet, the combination of these two ingredients in a salad seemed to have escaped the attention not only of myself, but also of my fellow Greeks, anywhere except Mykonos.

Upon my return home, I set out to re-create this wonderful refreshing salad.

And here it is:

Mykonos-inspired watermelon and feta salad

Ingredients:

1. 200 grams iceberg lettuce 2. 200 grams watermelon chunks (I tend to buy them already cut) 3. 7-10 cherry tomatoes 4. 100 grams feta cheese, crumbled 5. Extra-virgin Greek olive oil, for the dressing 6. Balsamic cream (I prefer the orange and lemon, fig, and pomegranate balsamic creams by Kalamata Papadimitriou), for the dressing

Method:

Place the iceberg lettuce in a large salad bowl. Dress with extra-virgin Greek olive oil and balsamic cream. Add the watermelon chunks and the cherry tomatoes. Crumble the feta cheese and pour it over the salad. Stir gently to integrate the ingredients.

I’ve also decided to experiment and combine these two ingredients in a soup. Inspired by the Spanish gazpacho soup, this is my Greek take on this lovely summery soup:

Watermelon and feta gazpacho soup

Ingredients:

1. 400 grams watermelon chunks (I tend to buy them already cut) 2. 200 grams cherry tomatoes 3. Half a cucumber, peeled and chopped 4. 1 tablespoon extra-virgin Greek olive oil 5. 1 teaspoon lemon or lime juice 6. 100 grams feta cheese, crumbled 7. Croutons

Makes 2 servings

Method:

Blend all the ingredients except for the feta cheese in a food processor, until smooth. Place in a bowl, and refrigerate for at least an hour. Serve in a bowl, then pour over the crumbled feta cheese and a few croutons.

Kali Orexi! Bon Appétit!

Planning your trip

When to visit the Greek islands

For me, the best time to visit the Greek islands is the summer; this is when the ferries are at their most frequent, the weather at its warmest and the atmosphere at its best. If you’re planning an island-hopping holiday, July and August are the best months. However, avoid late August when the winds get too strong.

Alternatively, you can visit Sifnos at the beginning of September when the Cycladic Gastronomy Festival ‘Nikolaos Tselementes’ takes place, and Skyros in time for the Carnival, which takes place in February/early March.

How to get to the Greek islands

Of the islands mentioned above, there are international and domestic flights to Santorini and Mykonos; there are also domestic flights to Skyros. It is worth considering flying to Athens (it’s always worth spending a few days there too), then taking the ferry or a domestic flight to the islands.

You can check out the ferries timetable here. If you're planning to visit several islands, the Eurail Greek Islands Pass is worth considering.

Further reading

To better prepare for my trip, I used the Lonely Planet Greek Islands Travel Guide

Have a great journey!

Alex

‘Happy is the man, I thought, who, before dying, has the good fortune to sail the Aegean Sea.’

Nikos Kazantzakis, Greek writer