ISSN: 1309-3851 t 2014 OCTOBER he

co mpl ete guid e to go ® PER S ONALITY: ME FINE-DINING RESTAURANTSFINE-DINING A S ... and and ... UR JAZZ FESTIVALS JAZZ COR I m N uch uch FİLMEKİMİ G Y G m EN or e OUR + T t E E ®

Your traveling companion since 1936® ® WELCOME Editor's Letter wheremagazine

WHERE MAGAZINE İSTANBUL EDiTORIAL Falling for İstanbul EDITOR Dilek Koç MANAGING DIRECTOR Gürkan Kınacı The autumn season is off to a brisk start, and with its new venues, music festivals, Contributing editor Emma Levine biennales and concerts, İstanbul is back to its usual lively pace. October is one of englısh edıtorıal dırector Bob Beer the finest months to take in the city’s bohemian atmosphere with its beckoning Designer Tijen Tezel contrıbutors Ardan Zentürk, Özden Akbal streets and historical venues. Take a tour of the Fener and Balat neighbourhoods, deputy edıtor Özlem Aykın Kınacı travel back in time as you marvel at the magnificent Dolmabahçe Palace, and of oaykin@ whereistanbul.com.tr photo edıtor Sami Atalan course, visit the mosques and museums on the Historical Peninsula. consultant Aynur Koç October welcomes a wonderful array of events including the 24th Akbank Jazz responsıble edıtor Aslı Koç Festival (p. 27) presenting concerts by top names in jazz; the 13th Filmekimi (p. 4) ADVERTISING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT SALES DIRECTORS film festival; top Cuban musicians the Orquesta Buena Vista Social Club at Black Zeynep Sezer Box İstanbul (p. 27); and the award-winning Broadway musical Beauty And The [email protected] Selen Uzeroğlu Kaya Beast at Zorlu Center PSM (p. 26). [email protected] busıness development & marketıng İstanbul’s many art galleries launch the new season of impressive exhibitions. marketing dırEctor Mahmut Bölükbaş One of the most significant of these is Orientalism In Polish Art, commemorating [email protected] the 100th year of Turkish-Polish relations at the outstanding productıon productıon manager Aybüke Kevser (p. 24). Other unmissable projects include the Turkish visual-musical Plurivocality assıstant Selda Ceylan Toprak at İstanbul Modern (p. 24), the collection of works by Turkish painters at the controller Yıldırım Uğurgelen beautiful Sakıp Sabancı Museum, and late works by Joan Miró, also at the Sakıp Sabancı Museum (p. 25). Check our exhibition pages for the complete line up.

where (c), cee & dıvısıon Wishing you a lovely beginning of autumn in our city. United Guides Hungary MANAGING DIRECTOR András Wiszkidenszky regıonal manager Bianca Otero DİLEK KOÇ Editor, Where İstanbul

Managing Director Europe Morris Visitor PublicationS Chris Manning MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIDENT William S. Morris IV PUBLISHER DSTİL TASARIM İLETİŞİM TİCARET LTD. ŞTİ. Teşvikiye, Deryadil Sok. Şeren Apt. 104/10, Şişli 34365, İstanbul Tel: 0212 296 0039 Fax: 0212 225 0552 Prınted by turkuvaz matbaacılık yayıncılık A.Ş. Akpınar Mah. Hasan Basri Cad. No.4 Sancaktepe, İstanbul Tel: 0216 5859000 Fax: 0216 585 9130 Issue No.57 ISSN: 1309-3851 Publication type: Monthly periodical Plan ahead for your next visit to İstanbul, subscribe to where istanbul: 12 issues for overseas subcriptions $50. Contact: [email protected] Facebook: Where İstanbul Magazine Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

CONCIERGE ADVISORY BOARD Union Internationale des Concierges d’Hotel “Les Clefs d’Or” is an International Association of Concierges. Registered at 12, Rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, France. Members are as follows Ali Öner - Intercontinental İstanbul Cengiz Görkem - Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul Halil Tınaztepe - Four Seasons Bosphorus Yiğit Emen - Hilton İstanbul Koray Tüfekçi - Park Hyatt İstanbul Maçka Palas Cenk Caner - The Ritz - Carlton, İstanbul Sedat Tuncay - Sheraton Hotel Ankara Adnan Öner (President) - Swissôtel The Bosphorus Alpaslan Yıldız - The Grand Tarabya Oğuz Uzun - Divan İstanbul Fetih Güçlüer - Shangri La Bosphorus, İstanbul Endorsed by the Society of the Golden Keys of Turkey

2 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014www.wheretraveler.com I İstanbUl WHERE 53 Where now | CALENDAR OCTOBER Visit the Ottoman Inauguration Gifts exhibition 1 in Yıldız Palace (p. 25) Taste delicious lokum () at 2 Ali Muhiddin Hacıbekir (p. 49) See beautiful waterfront mansions on a HOT DATES 3 Bosphorus boat trip to Anadolu Hisarı. Budding antique collectors: browse the 4 collections in quaint shops in Çukurcuma (p. 36) Explore the unspoiled streets of the historic 5 neighbourhood of Kuzguncuk. Admire the brilliant gemstone ring designs 6 at Dora Alyans (p. 46) See intricate patterned tiles in Tiled Kiosk Saturday - frıday 7 (Çinili Köşk) in Topkapı Palace’s courtyard (p. 17) Don’t miss the famous Broadway musical Beauty 8 and the Beast at Zorlu Center PSM (p. 26) Be dazzled by the costumes of Italian Queen Marie 9 José de Savoie at Galatasaray İstanbul 74 (p. 24) Enjoy the live performances at the Garanti Jazz 11-17 10 Green concert series at IKSV (p. 27) 13. FİLMEKİMİ Head to a film screening at the 13th annual Marking the beginning of the new cinema season, the festival Filmekimi presents the latest 11 Filmekimi film festival (p. 4) films premiering in festivals including Sundance, Cannes and Toronto, including those by Choose your favourite piece of Armani clothing Godard, Cronenberg, Leigh and Sissako. Various venues. www.filmekimi.iksv.org. 12 at their new store in Nişantaşı (p. 40) Feast on traditional Turkish at Peymane 13 Ocakbaşı’s new Şişhane branch (p. 50) Visit Mercedes Benz Fashion Weekend for 14 new collection designs at Antrepo 3 (p. 49) THURSDAY Catch a concert by famous jazz trumpeter Chris 15 Botti at CRR Concert Hall (p. 27) Don’t miss Carlton J. Smith’s ‘Soul Man’ concert 16 at Jolly Joker (p. 27) View the Orientalism In Polish Art exhibition at the 23 17 Pera Museum (p. 24) Browse for Turkish ceramics, carpets and 24TH AKBANK 18 jewellery at Nakkaş (p. 40) JAZZ FESTIVAL Start the day with breakfast on the Bosphorus Beginning today is Turkey’s 19 and a strong cup of . longest-running festival, well Enjoy the Yehudi Menuhin School’s performance known for hosting world-class 20 at (p. 27) musicians and unforgettable Be dazzled by the endless authentic shops at the performances (p. 27). 21 historic Grand Bazaar (p. 36) Have a fish sandwich on the Karaköy waterfront 22 while enjoying views of the city. Take in one of the many fine performances of FRIDAY 23 the Akbank Jazz Festival (p. 27) Dance away the night at Orquesta Buena Vista 24 Social Club at Black Box İstanbul (p. 27) Get up close to colourful, fascinating sea life at 25 Turkuazoo aquarium (p. 14) Tour Kadıköy Market, then check out the smart 24 26 boutiques along Bağdat Caddesi (p. 36) ORQUESTA BUENA Don’t miss the performance by the legendary VISTA SOCIAL CLUB 27 Bonnie Tyler at Cemal Reşit Rey auditorium (p. 27) Collaborating with various groups and Visit the One Hundred Years Of Love exhibition at orchestras worldwide, this famous 28 İstanbul Modern (p. 24) Cuban group performs at the Black Box See Joan Miro’s exhibition, Women, Birds, Stars İstanbul during its farewell tour. Serving 29 at the Sakıp Sabancı Museum (p. 25) an exciting blend of traditional Cuban Have dinner at Eataly, then catch Jamie Cullum music with trombone, percussion and 30 on stage at Zorlu Center PSM (p. 27) piano, the group promises a thrilling Hear a concert by American jazz and R&B performance (p. 27). 31 singer Kathy Kosins at Nardis Jazz Club (p. 27)

4 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 Where Now | İSTANBUL in 2014

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6 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 7 www.wheretraveler.com 13 Where Nonow || İSTANBULROYAL LONDON in 2014

NICOLE RESTAURANT

Kaan Sakarya the younger generation of chefs have of that, I prefer more informal places. For Executive Chef made impressive inroads. Given Turkey’s example, for and organ meats, I like location at the crossroads of the Aegean, Bir Tat Et Lokantası in Koşuyolu. I enjoy Tell us about your menu Balkans and Mediterranean, that’s almost coffee at Kronotop in Cihangir, which roasts We named our restaurant inevitable. I think many of our unusual its coffee fresh every day. after Agnés Marthe ingredients, like different cereals and What do you think about new trends Nicole, a nun who once grains, dried vegetables, and pepper in cooking? A new trend comes along lived at the old French infirmary nearby. paste, set our cuisine apart from others. every couple of years. Four or five years With a feminine style, Nicole is a French- How would you define İstanbul? İstanbul ago Spanish food was all the rage; more influenced, natural gourmet restaurant. is a world city unlike any other. It draws recently it was Nordic food, and now We change our menu every six weeks in people in with its charms, and they fall South American food is in the limelight. order to take advantage of seasonal in love with it. With its cultural To be honest, I have lots of faith in my local ingredients, and are careful heritage, landscape, the own cuisine. If it’s prepared well with the in our pairing of wines to Bosphorus and the Golden proper ingredients, has the dishes. Horn, it’s a difficult city to potential to be very popular during the What’s your opinion of resist! coming years. Turkish cuisine? Tomtom Suites, Boğazkesen Cad. Turkish cuisine has What are your favourite TomTom Kaptan Sok. 18, Beyoğlu become much more İstanbul restaurants? T: 0212 292 4467. visible worldwide over For fish, I go to Balıkçı the past several years, and Kahraman, but outside

10 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

İstanbul’s Iconic Symbol Delicious Tastes in The Tower, part of the land walls of the former Genoese colony Historic of Galata, was built in the year 1348. Atmosphere he largest of 24 columns in the tower as the jumping-off point for his flight Around the tower are many fortifications, it was known as Christea – the first in human history - which ended cafes and restaurants. Worth a T Turris (Tower of Christ) or Megalos across the Bosphorus in Üsküdar. visit is Kiva Han, which serves a Pyrgos (Great Tower) by the Byzantine Burned countless times in the 17th wide choice of Turkish regional . The tower has a circumference of 168 and 18th centuries, the tower is now an dishes. meters and 68 metres high, with important tourist attraction. It is an excellent walls 3.75 metres thick. destination especially for first-time Originally, it served as a visitors, as it offers one of the watchtower, but in the most spectacular views of 16th century, after the İstanbul. An elevator ascends Ottoman conquest to the 7th floor, with an of the city, it was especially beautiful at used as a prison. In sunset, leaving you in the 17th century it no doubt as to how the became a supplies Golden Horn received its depot for the name. Kasımpaşa Shipyards. Bereketzade Mah. Hazerfen Ahmet Çelebi Büyük Hendek Cad. 2, Kuledibi. also famously used the T: 0212 293 8180. www.galatatower.net

12 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

one with a surviving atrium. Also open for special Borsa Durağı Mevkii. İmrahor Cad. Sütlüce. Sightseeing events and ceremonies, the museum hosts various T: 0212 222 2882. Off map. Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı) events. Requires prior appointment by phone. TL Sapphire Observation Deck The largest covered cistern in İstanbul, named after 20. Topkapı Palace 1st Courtyard, Sultanahmet, A hot destination since the day it opened, a basilica once located nearby. Built during the Eminönü. T: 0212 512 0480. F5. Sapphire’s observation deck offers a stunning 360° reign of Justinian I (527-565) to provide water for Hagia Sophia Museum panorama that takes in the , Hagia neighbouring palaces. 143m long, 65m wide, (Ayasofya Müzesi) Sophia, the Bosphorus and more. Daily 10am- with a total area of 9,800 square metres. Open daily Built between 532 and 537 by Byzantine Emperor 10pm. www.istanbulsapphire.com. Emniyet Evleri, between 09:00 am and 18:30 pm Admission fee: TL Justinian I in the old city centre, Hagia Sophia, or Eski Büyükdere Cad. 1/1, Levent. 20. www.yerebatan.com. Alemdar Mah. Yerebatan Church of the Holy Wisdom, is the oldest and most T: 0212 268 8383. Cad. 1/3, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 522 1259. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). F5. quickly constructed cathedral in the world, and Turkuazoo Cistern Of Philoxenos fourth largest in terms of its area. A masterpiece Turkey’s first public aquarium, Turkuazoo is situated (Binbirdirek Sarnıcı) of art, history and architecture, it served two in the huge Forum İstanbul shopping centre. In The second-largest water reservoir in İstanbul Abrahamic religions -916 years as the central addition to observing marine life, visitors can after the Basilica Cistern, this structure was built church of the Byzantine Empire and 477 years as also experience one of the most breath taking in the 4th century according to Byzantine sources. mosque - before being converted into a museum activities of a life time; Diving with Sharks. Mon-Sun When Emperor Constantine I rebuilt the city, it in 1935. Tue-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 25. 10am-8pm. www.turkuazoo.com. Forum İstanbul was constructed to provide water to the Byzantine Museum Pass Point Ayasofya Meydanı, Shopping Center, Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. 5/5, palace. Columns bear pyramid-shaped capitals. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 522 0989. F5. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 2015. The Cistern of Philoxenos serves as a museum İstanbul Aquarium today. Daily 9am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 10. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). The İstanbul Aquarium is the world’s largest www.binbirdirek.com. İmran Öktem Sok. 4, thematic aquarium, and has received huge positive Yıldız Palace, Şale Mansıon Binbirdirek, Sultanahmet. response from the public. Daily 10am-8pm. (Yıldız Sarayı, Şale Köşk) T: 0212 518 1001. F5. www.istanbulakvaryum.com. Şenlikköy Mah. Part of Yıldız Palace, Şale Köşk is one of the most Dolmabahçe Palace Museum Yeşilköy Halkalı Cad. 93, Florya. fascinating examples of 19th-century Ottoman architecture. It consists of three main buildings (Dolmabahçe Sarayı Müzesi) T: 0212 444 9744. Off map. constructed in between 1880 and 1898, located Commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecit I, this palace Jurassic Land in a garden surrounded by high walls. Its last two was built between 1843 and 1856. It reflects the Jurassic Land invites you to discover the world sections were constructed to host Kaiser Wilhelm Western influence in Ottoman architecture in of the dinosaurs, where these most magnificent II during his visit to İstanbul. Daily except Mon-Thu the late 18th century. Design contains eclectic creatures – the last of which died out 65 million 9:00am-5pm. www.millisaraylar.gov.tr. Admission elements from the baroque, rococo and years ago – come back to life. Designed in an fee: TL 10. Palanga Cad. 53, Yıldız, Beşiktaş. neoclassical styles. It served as Atatürk’s residence ‘edutainment’ concept combining fun and T: 0212 259 8977. during the early Republican Period and hosted A8. education. Daily 10am-8pm. Museum Pass many high level foreign guests before being Advantage Point (%15 discount on tickets) converted into a museum. Daily open except www.jurassicland.com.tr. Forum İstanbul, Kocatepe museums Mon&Thu 9am-4pm. Admission fee: TL 40. Mah. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 8088. www.dolmabahce.gov.tr. Dolmabahçe Cad. Adam Mickiewicz Museum Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 9000. B7. Residence of one of Poland’s three national poets, who came to Turkey during the Crimean War to Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi) This mosque, designed by Mimar Sinan, resembles organize the Polish troops on the allied side. Located in the Galata district, it was built in 1348 by a small Hagia Sophia, and is adorned with famous Tue-Sun 9.30am-4:30pm. Admission free. Serdar the Genoese in addition to the city walls to defend Iznik tiles of the period. It also includes a külliye, or Ömer Cad. Tatlı Badem Sok. 17, Dolapdere. the region from outside attacks. The tower has complex consisting of a Turkish bath, a tomb and a T: 0212 237 2545. B5. a superb panoramic view of the Bosphorus, the madrassah. , Beyoğlu. Golden Horn and the city. The restaurant located D5. Aşiyan Museum Residence of prominent poet and writer Tevfik at the top floor of the tower offers Turkish and Maiden’s Tower (Kız Kulesi) international dishes. Daily 9am-8.30pm. Built on a small Bosphorus islet off the coast of Fikret. Personal belongings of Tevfik Fikret and Admission fee: TL 18,5. www.galatatower.net. Üsküdar, the Maiden’s Tower has been at the Abdülhak Hamid as well as photographs and Bereketzade Mah. Büyük Hendek Cad. 2, Kuledibi, centre of many myths. According to one, it was belongings of other prominent members of the Şişhane. T: 0212 293 8180. D4. built by an emperor to protect his daughter who he Edebiyat-ı Cedide literary movement. Free of saw die of snakebite in a dream. The effort proved charge. Tue-Sat 9am-4pm. Bebek, Aşiyan Yolu 15, Galata Mevlevihanesi futile as the snake hid itself in a fruit basket and Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 6986. Off map. Founded in the late 15th century, this Mevlevi lodge bit her anyway. Having served as a customshouse, is a fine place to acquaint yourself with the Islamic Beylerbeyi Palace Museum watchtower, lighthouse, radar station, and Mystic philosophy and practices which hold such (Beylerbeyi Sarayı Müzesi) warehouse throughout its 2,500-year history, it an important place Anatolia’s cultural heritage. Built by architect Serkis Balyan during the reign also marked the entrance of the Bosphorus. The Operating as a museum since the last quarter of of Sultan Abdülaziz (1861-1865), this replaced the foundations and most of the lower storey of the the 20th century, this historical site consists of previous wooden waterfront palace. Previously tower were built during the reign of Mehmet II, and three floors, including the Semâhâne, where the it was generally used in summers, particularly to it took its final shape during the reign of Mahmut dervishes perform their famous ritual whirling host foreign heads of state including the Prince II. Daily 9am-00:30am. Museum cafe 9am-6:45pm. dance. The museum’s collection also includes of Serbia, King of Montenegro, Shah of Iran and Live music-dinner (Reservations required) 8:15pm- calligraphic panels, musical instruments, costumes French Empress Eugenie. Garden contains a 12:30am. Museum Pass Advantage Point (25% off and other items from Mevlevi culture. cafeteria and sales booths. Daily except Mon&Thu adult tickets and 20% discount on Breakfast/Lunch/ Daily open except Mondays 9am-7pm. 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 20. Abdullahağa Cad. Dinner/Brunch purchases) Museum Pass Point Beylerbeyi, Üsküdar. T: 0216 321 9320. Off map. www.kizkulesi.com.tr. Salacak Mevkii, Üsküdar. www.galatamevlevihanesimuzesi.gov. tr. D7. Chora Museum (Kariye Müzesi) Galip Dede Cad. 15, Beyoğlu. Miniatürk First built as part of a monastery in 534, this T: 0212 245 4141. D5. Covering an area of 60,000 square metres, is the only remaining structure from a larger Hagia Irene Museum (Aya İrini Müzesi) Miniatürk is the largest model park in the world, complex. Since its construction, it has seen major displaying 105 1/25 scale models of major Located in the outer courtyard of the Topkapı renovations in the 11th and 14th centuries. The structures in the Turkish and former Ottoman Palace, Hagia Irene is a Byzantine structure dating modern building consists mostly of the portions region. Open daily between 9:00 am and 7pm. back to the 4th century. It is the second largest renovated during the Ottoman and Republican Admission fee: TL 10. www.miniaturk.com.tr. Byzantine church after Hagia Sophia and the only periods. Its magnificent mosaics and frescos are

14 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

special discount) www.sadberkhanimmuzesi. TBMM Department of National Palaces visitors at the entrance. Mon-Thu 10am-4pm,

org.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 25/29, Sarıyer. Art Museum Fri&Sun 10am-2pm. Admission fee: TL 10. The Apartment of the Heir Apparent at T: 0212 242 3813. Off map. www.muze500.com. Karaköy Meydanı, Perçemli Dolmabahçe Palace, itself an architectural symbol Sok. 1 (Behind Selanik Arcade), Karaköy. Sakıp Sabancı Museum of the princes’ adoption of a free lifestyle, has T: 0212 292 6333. D5. The main building of this museum is a villa built in been converted into a world-class museum. Paradise! 1927 by Italian architect Eduard De Nari for Prince Opened in March 2014, the museum displays 202 Topkapı Palace (Topkapı Sarayı) The Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı), Muhammad Ali Hasan of the Egyptian Khedive paintings depicting the late Ottoman Empire. Built in 1478, during the reign of Mehmet II (the is a historic bazaar built in family. Purchased by the Sabancı Family in 1950. In 174 of the works are from the National Palaces Conqueror), Topkapı Palace served as the seat 1660. Known as a market 1998, it was given to Sabancı University along with Collection; the remaining 28 are from Topkapı of government of the Ottoman Empire and the residence of Sultans for 380 years, until selling , dried herbs and its collections and furniture to serve as a museum. Palace. Tue-Wed 9am-5pm. Fri-Sun 9am-5pm. The mansion houses a rich calligraphy and www.dolmabahce.gov.tr. Dolmabahçe Cad. the construction of Dolmabahçe Palace. It was traditional medicinal plants, it is organised as a museum during the reign of painting collection. Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10am- Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 9000. B7. also home to cheese shops and 6pm. 10am-8pm, Wed 10am-8pm. Free entrance Abdülhamid II, but not opened to the public until charcuteries. Though it now has at Wednesdays. Museum Pass Advantage Point The Museum of Innocence 1924. It consists of several sections, including its share of tourist shops as well, (TL8 for adult ticket and 10% discount on Museum The Masumiyet Müzesi (‘Museum of Innocence’), the Imperial Gate, the First Courtyard (Court of Gift Shop) www.sakipsabancimuzesi.org. inspired by the 2008 novel of the same name the Janissaries), the Second Courtyard (Divan it’s still a thriving traditional Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 42, Emirgan. T: 0212 277 2200. by Nobel prize-winner Orhan Pamuk, is the first Square), the Third Courtyard (Enderun Courtyard), bazaar and an integral part of Off map. museum in history inspired by a novel and made the Fourth Courtyard (Imperial Sofa) and the the old shopping district that reality. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission fee: Harem. Guided tours in the Harem section require Santralistanbul surrounds it (p. 36). TL 25. Museum Pass Advantage Point (30 % off additional ticket purchase. Wed-Mon 9am-6pm. The first power plant in the Ottoman Empire, adult tickets, 10% discount on Museum Gift Shop Admission fee: TL 30. Harem, 9am-6pm. this complex was later upgraded in keeping with and Café) www.masumiyetmuzesi.org. Admission fee: TL 15. Museum Pass Point

advances in technology and served İstanbul until Çukurcuma Cad. Dalgıç Çıkmazı, 2, Beyoğlu. www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr. Sultanahmet Meydanı. 1983 as the Silahtarağa Power Plant. Now within among the finest examples of Byzantiane art. Daily Museum for the History of Science and Panorama 1453 History Museum T: 0212 252 9738. C5. T: 0212 512 0480. E5. the campus of a private university, the historical except Wed 9am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 15. Technology in Islam (İstanbul İslam Witness the conquest of İstanbul 560 years later building has recently been renovated to serve The Quincentennial Foundation Yıldız Palace Museums Museum Pass Point Ayvansaray Mah. Bilim ve Teknoloji Tarihi Müzesi) and relive the moment Mehmet II entered the city. as an art and culture centre. Highlights include Museum Of Turkish Jews (Yıldız Sarayı Müzeleri) This museum displays modern copies of inventions Open daily between 8am and 6pm Admission fee: Kariye Camii Sok. 26, Edirnekapı, Fatih. the old engine rooms preserved to establish (500. Yıl Vakfı Türk Musevileri Müzesi) Complex of former imperial Ottoman pavilions and discoveries by Muslim scholars which were TL 10. www.panoramikmuze.com. Maltepe Mah., T: 0212 631 9241. C2. an Energy Museum, plus contemporary art (Also Known As Jewish Museum) and villas representing the last examples of used for centuries but largely forgotten. The Topkapı Kültür Parkı Panorama 1453 Tarih Müzesi exhibitions and cultural events. Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Historical documents, information and objects Ottoman palace architecture. The first building Doğançay Museum displays illustrate clearly how works of Islamic Topkapı, Zeytinburnu. T: 0212 415 1453. Off map. Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 15. documenting the 700-year of history of Jewry in in the area was constructed during the reign Housed in an historical 5-storey building, this science in areas including astronomy, geography, Pera Museum www.santralistanbul.org. Eski Silahtarağa the Ottoman Empire. A work by sculptor Nadia of Ahmet I in the 17th century. The palace in its museum presents paintings by Adil Doğançay and mathematics, optics, medicine, chemistry, Founded by the Suna and İnan Kıraç Foundation, Elektrik Santralı, Kazım Karabekir Cad. 2/6, Eyüp. Arditti to commemorate the Turkish-Jewish current form was built at the order of Abdülhamid his world-renowned son Burhan Doğançay. Free of technology and architecture were discovered, museum hosts three permanent collections T: 0212 311 7809. Off map. soldiers fallen while defending their country greets II in 1880, who wanted his seat of government charge. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. reached Europe via various routes, and gradually including Anatolian weights and measures, www.dogancaymuseum.org. Hüseyin Ağa Mah. absorbed into those cultures. Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Museum Pass Point Gülhane Parkı İçi, Kütahya tiles and ceramics, and orientalist art, Balo Sok. 42, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 7770. C5. Eminönü, Fatih. www.ibttm.org. consisting of 300 paintings. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 12am-6pm. Museum İstanbul Archaeological Museums T: 0212 528 8065. E5. Admission fee: TL 10. (İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri) Pass Advantage Point (20% off adult tickets and Mustafa Kemal Museum Founded in 1891 by painter and archaeologist 10% discount on Perakende Artshop and Pera This three-storey house in the Akaretler Row Café) www.peramuzesi.org.tr. Meşrutiyet Osman Hamdi Bey, this museum houses artefacts Houses, where the founder of the Turkish Republic Cad. 65, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 334 9900. from the many civilizations that have left their C5. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk stayed frequently between marks upon history. It is also the first museum 1912 and 1919, was also the residence of his Press Museum (Basın Müzesi) founded in Turkey, and considered one of the ten mother Zübeyde Hanım, his sister Makbule Atadan Transformed into a museum in 1988, this is the foremost of its kind in the world. It is actually three and his adopted son, Abdurrahim Tunçak. Now first press museum in Turkey and the fourth in the different museums under the same administration: a museum displaying Atatürk’s belongings and world. The incredible variety of objects exhibited The Archaeological Museum, the Ancient Orient historical items from the time. Daily 9am-4pm. includes lithography samples, platen machines, Museum (Eski Şark Eserleri Müzesi) and Tiled Kiosk Admission free. Süleyman Seba Cad. Akaretler letterpresses, proofing tables, old typewriters and Museum (Çinili Köşk Müzesi), which together form Sıraevler, 36, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 3329. A7. telex machines. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Admission an outstanding attraction in the city. free. Divanyolu Cad. 76, Çemberlitaş. www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr. Tue-Sun 9am-6pm. Military Museum (Askeri Müze) T: 0212 513 8458. F4. Constructed in 1841 as a Military Academy, this Admission fee: TL 15. Museum Pass Point (10% building serves today as the Military Museum. Rahmi M. Koç Museum discount at the Shop and Café) 5,000 objects selected from the museum’s The first major museum in Turkey dedicated Cankurtaran Mah., Alemdar Cad. Osman Hamdi collection of 45,000 items include arms, uniforms, to the history of transportation, industry and Bey Yokuşu, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 520 7740. E5. tents, flags, swords, helmets and Ottoman-era communication. Located on the shores of the İstanbul Modern artefacts. One of the oldest military bands in the Golden Horn, its collection includes thousands of objects from gramophone needles to ships Non-profit cultural institution offering exhibitions world, the Janissary Band gives concerts between and aircrafts. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am- and events held with the support of private 3 and 4pm. Wed-Sun 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 4. www.tsk.tr. Valikonağı Cad. 2, Harbiye. 8pm. Admission fee: TL 12,50. Museum Pass individuals, institutions and establishments as well T: 0212 233 2720. Advantage Point (20% off adult tickets and 10% as local governments through joint projects. B6. discount on gift shop purchases) Tue-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu 10am-8pm. Naval Museum (Deniz Müzesi) www.rmk-museum.org.tr. Hasköy Cad. 5, Hasköy. Admission fee: TL 17. www.istanbulmodern.org. Largest maritime museum in Turkey and among T: 0212 369 6600. B3. Meclisi Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Müd. the most important worldwide with its rich Antrepo 4, Karaköy. T: 0212 334 7300. D5. collection of 40,000 items. Barges, marine Sadberk Hanım Museum uniforms, manuscripts, scale models, standards, Funded by the Vehbi Koç Foundation, this İstanbul Railway Museum maps, paintings, sultans’ seals, coats of arms, museum is located in a renovated old waterfront This collection of 300 rail-related items explores galleys, navigation tools and weaponry. Tue-Fri mansion. Exhibiting a collection of archaeological all aspects of the Turkish Railways, including items 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission fee: artefacts, it earned the 1988 Europa Nostra from the original Orient Express. Tue-Sat 9am- TL 6. www.denizmuzeleri.tsk.tr. Deniz Müzesi Award for its modern museum practices. Thu-Tue 5pm. Sirkeci Train Station, Eminönü. Komutanlığı, Barbaros Hayrettin Cad.Beşiktaş. 10am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 7. Museum Pass T: 0212 520 6575. E5. T: 0212 327 4345. B7. Advantage Point (You can buy the ticket with a

16 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 17 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

Nuruosmaniye Mosque Upon his death in 1598, Dalgıç Ahmet Çavuş Commissioned by Sultan Mahmut I in 1748, this became its architect. Largely destroyed by a fire in mosque was completed during the reign of his 1660, it was reopened in 1665. Eminönü. E4. brother Osman III, built by Mustafa Aga. With its baroque style and the three-dimensional stone patterns, it is one of its kind in world architecture. churches AND The mosque’s two minarets feature the first stone combs used instead of lead ones. Nuruosmaniye, SYNAGOGUES Eminönü. T: 0212 513 0692. E4. Churches and synagogues hold an important place in the vast cultural geography of İstanbul, which Ortaköy Mosque has served as capital of three major empires over Located next to Ortaköy Pier, this mosque was 1,600 years. The following are the most important commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecit to Karabet of Istanbul’s churches and synagogues for their Balyan. The structure underwent restoration history and architecture. Synagogues require a between 1960 and 1972. It is a baroque structure permit, available from the İstanbul Chief Rabbinate. featuring a single dome with two slim minarets. T: 0212 293 8794. White stone was used for walls, mosaic and marble for the mihrab, and porphyry for the pulpit. Armenian Patriarchate Ortaköy, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 359 5908. A9. Just a 20-minute walk from Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapı Palace. In 2001, almost the Rüstem Paşa Mosque entire Armenian community of İstanbul celebrated This mosque in the Tahtakale area, near the the 540th anniversary of the Armenian Patriarchate Egyptian (Spice) Market, was commissioned to the at this church. Open Mon-Fri 9am-4pm. famous architect Sinan by the daughter of Sultan Sevgi Sok. 6, Kumkapı. T: 0212 517 0970. B4. Suleiman the Magnificent. Begun in the year 1561, it is a classical Ottoman structure, adorned with Ayios Dimitrios Church beautiful 16th-century Iznik tiles bearing floral Unusually for a 16th century Greek Orthodox and fruit motifs. Tue-Sun 9am-12pm, 1pm-5pm. church, it displays clear Ottoman architectural Hasırcılar Çarşısı, Eminönü. F4. influence. Formerly the church of Ayios Athanasios, it is said to have changed its name when an icon of Sokullu Mehmet Paşa Mosque St. Dimitrios was brought here from a small church With a single dome and minaret, and built in in the Kasımpaşa district. Kurtuluş Square, the last Kadırga in 1507, this mosque was commissioned bus stop on Kurtuluş Cad. Ateşböceği Sok. 2, Şişli. by Ottoman Grand Vizier Sokullu Mehmet Pasha T: 0212 250 6248. Off map. to Mimar Sinan for his wife. Its interior features İznik tiles and special hand-carvings, with a mihrab Beth Israel Synagogue covered with calligraphic tiles. Şehit Mehmet Paşa Built in 1920, this synagogue provides religious Yokuşu, Kadırga, Eminönü. F4. services under the Neve Shalom Foundation. It is the most active synagogue in Turkey. Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque Bomonti, Kazım Orbay Cad.Efe Sok. 29, Şişli. One of the most famous landmarks of the Turkish T: 0212 240 6599. Off map. and Islamic world, Sultanahmet Mosque is a highly admired structure by all visitors. An example of Church Of St. George Of Fener Greek classical Turkish art, it is the only one of its kind Orthodox Patriarchate Magnificent Ottoman to be originally built with six minarets, and stands The centre of the Orthodox Christian world, this out on the city’s skyline from the Bosphorus. It church hosts many relics including the column on Embroidery is also known as the Blue Mosque for the İznik which Jesus was whipped and remains of three The Sadberk Hanım Museum presents some of the finest examples of Ottoman tiles that adorn its interior. Entering the structure great saints. Fener Rum Patrikhanesi, Dr. Sadık period embroidery covering the 300-year period between the 17th to 20th centuries. through one of its three gates, visitors are greeted Ahmet Cad. 35, Haliç. T: 0212 531 5152. C3. by its rich and colourful ornamentation including Works on display range from everyday items to pieces used in ostentatious palace Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church engravings, tiles and stained glass windows celebrations (p. 16). Located at the intersection of Sıraselviler Street that complement the grandeur of its exterior. and İstiklal Street in , this church is a Sultanahmet. T: 0212 458 4468. F4/F5. synthesis of Byzantine and modern architecture beyond the reach of bombardment from the sea. mosque, visitors should cover their arms and legs; Süleymaniye Mosque with a cruciform plan and twin bell towers. Items exhibited today originally belonged to women should cover their heads. Commissioned by Sultan Süleyman I (Süleyman the Daily 9am-5pm. Meşelik Sok. 11/1, Taksim. the palace, including Abdülhamid II’s personal Magnificient), this mosque was built between 1550- T: 0212 244 1358. C5. Eyüp Sultan Mosque belongings and gifts presented to him, and 1557 by Sinan the Architect. Described as a work Located in Eyüp on the northern tip of the Golden Neve Shalom Synagogue products of the Yıldız Porcelain Factory still located from Sinan’s apprenticeship period, the mosque is Horn, where one of the first followers of Islam, Ayyub The most famous Jewish synagogue in the city. on the palace premises. Wed-Mon 9am-6pm. actually part of the Süleymaniye Complex (Külliye), El-Ensari was buried after he was killed during the Shabbats, weddings, funerals, brit milahs, bar/bat www.yildizsarayi.com. Admission fee: TL 8. also including a madrasah (religious school), Arab siege of Constantinople. Mehmed II ordered mitzvahs as well as high holidays are celebrated Museum Pass Point Yıldız, Beşiktaş. library, hospital, bath, soup kitchen, treasury the construction of a shrine and a mosque on the here. Büyük Hendek Cad. 67, Kuledibi, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 258 3080. A8. and shops. Resting on four massive columns, the location. The first mosque, which was completed in T: 0212 293 7566. mosque’s dome is 53 metres high and 26.5 metres D4. 1458, was later destroyed, with the present structure in diameter. Its interior is subtly decorated, with constructed by Uzun Hüseyin Efendi between 1798 St. Anthony Of Padua Church MOSQUES the windows on the mihrab wall executed in with Roman Catholic church with the largest and 1800. Eyüp. T: 0212 418 9393. A1. İstanbul’s mosques are among the most stained glass. Süleymaniye, Beyazıt. congregation in İstanbul. The entrance to the outstanding witnesses to the city’s long history. Hirka-I Şerif Mosque T: 0212 532 0623. E3/E4. church is between the two apartment buildings Each has a unique history and architecture, and Built in 1851 by Sultan Abdülmecid in Ottoman where priests reside. Reinforced concrete Valide Sultan Mosque (Yeni Camii) is open to visitors at vario times of the day. style, to house the Hırka-ı Şerif (the cloak of the construction built in Italian neo-Gothic style by Located in Eminönü Square next to the Egyptian The following is a list of some of the highlights. Prophet Mohammed presented to him by Uwais al- architect Guillio Mongeri. Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Bazaar (Spice Market), this mosque in the centre Most open daily from dawn to sunset. Qarani) this mosque is open throughout the month Sun 9am-12:30pm, 2pm-5pm. of a complex is one of the most glorious of the No admittance during the Friday prayer times of Ramadan. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Fatih. İstiklal Cad. 171, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. monumental mosques built on the coastline. It was between approx 12pm-1pm. Before entering the T: 0212 631 6453. T: 0212 244 0935. D2. commissioned by Safiye Sultan in 1597 and built by C5. Architect Davud Ağa, an apprentice of Sinan.

18 WHERE İstanbul I October 2014 OCTOBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 19

GALLERIES GALLERIES 44 A Art Gallery To 19 Oct: Twenty-five artists of different generations and disciplines join together in the exhibition Uluma (‘Howl’). The pieces here are inspired by Allen Ginsberg’s book by the same name. Mon-Sat 11am-7 pm. www.44a.com.tr. Ahmet Fetgari Sok. 44/A, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 233 3380. A6. Armaggan Art & Design Gallery To 25 Oct: The gallery presents two solo exhibitions: Arındırılmış Kent (‘Purged City’), created by painter Emre Kantaşlı through the use of architectural forms, and Emre Özçaylan’s Akl-ı Faal (‘Demiurge’), which creates a link between animals and human beings. Mon-Tue 10am-9pm. www. armaggangallery.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 65, Nuruosmaniye, Eminönü. T: 0212 522 4433. E4. Arter To 4 Jan 2015: Göçebe Bakış - Güneydoğu Asya’dan Çağdaş Sanat (‘The Roving Eye - Contemporary Art from Southeast Asia’) presents works which examine the artists’ cultures from multiple backgrounds, and reflect their personal viewpoints. Tue-Thu 11am-7pm, Fri-Sun noon-8pm. www.arter.org.tr. İstiklal Cad. 211, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 3767. C5. art ON İstanbul To 18 Oct: German painter Ulrich Erben presents 40 warm and cool compositions on canvas and paper in his exhibition Renklerin Belleği (‘The Memory of Colors’). Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. www.artonistanbul.com. Şair Nedim Cad. 4, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 259 1543. A7.

Borusan Contemporary To 16 Nov: Borusan Contemporary presents West Coast Visions, featuring artists and works from the San Francisco Museum Art’s Media Art Collection. The exhibition presents works by artists including Jeremy Blake, Bill Fontana, Doug Hall, Steina and Bill Viola, including major pieces employing new and old technology. Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. A Century www.borusancontemporary.com. Depicting the Ego Perili Köşk, Baltalimanı Hisar Cad. Rumeli Hisarı, of Cinema Sarıyer. T: 0212 393 5200. Off map.

C.A.M. Gallery presents the exhibition Kahramanlar (‘Heroes’), In honour of the 100th C.A.M Gallery by İstanbul-born artist Peter Hristoff (from 23 Oct). anniversary of Turkish cinema, To 19 Oct: Neslihan Başer uses Anatolian motifs in İstanbul Modern presents her first solo show, Faces of Memoirs. From 23 Oct: Peter Hristoff’s exhibition Kahramanlar (‘Heroes’) Yüzyıllık Aşk (‘One Hundred is works are inspired by Homer’s presents recent works in which he addresses the Odyssey and its themes of Years of Love’). The exhibition issues of identity, exile and change. Tue-Sat 10am- homecoming, identity and focuses on the audience as the 7pm. www.camgaleri.com. Şair Nedim Cad. 25, H chief element in the survival Akaretler. T: 0212 245 7975. A7/B7. transformation, blending ancient and current of cinema, evaluating the events, popular and military culture. Through Çağla Cabaoğlu Gallery his drawings, paintings and photographs, phenomenon of cinema in From 16 Oct: Contemporary miniature painter Hristoff asks the question: Who are our Turkey from this rarely-seen Mehmet Sinan Kuran’s solo exhibition Hiphorsis angle (p. 24). focuses on the effects popular culture has upon heroes? everyday life. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. The artist’s recent works have generally www.caglacabaoglu.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Lalezar focused on the issues of identity, the ego, Apt. 49/8, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 291 3791. A6. power, religion and violence. Hristoff uses Daire Sanat the male organ in this exhibition both to To 18 Oct: Sema Kayaönü presents a collection of symbolize and poke fun at the male ego. The collages of photographs that explore urban culture images of classical Greco-Roman sculptures and life in her solo exhibition Bize Herşey Tanıdık Orientalism in Polish Art (‘Everything is Familiar to Us’). Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, and porn star amputees imitate the statues of Through paintings, design, textiles and graphic works, the exhibition at the Pera Sat 11am-7pm. www.dairesanat.com. Boğazkesen ancient heroes. Museum (to 24 Oct), displays the orientalist trends in Polish art. Covering a period from Cad. 65D Tophane, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 5259. C5. Şair Nedim Cad. 25, Akaretler. the 17th to early 19th centuries, many of the works depict the Ottoman world (p.24). Evin Sanat Gallery T: 0212 245 7975. www.camgaleri.com. From 14 Oct: In Setenay Alpsoy’s fourth solo 22 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 23 GALLERIES GALLERIES

Sakıp Sabancı Museum MERkUR GALLERY Tanzimattan Bu Yana Türk Resim Sanatı (‘Turkish ‘Glitch’ p. 24 Painting from the Ottoman Reformation to the Republic’) explores the changes in Turkish society Q & A through the works of major Turkish painters including Osman Hamdi Bey, Fikret Muallâ, Halil Darick Pead Paşa, Şehzade Abdülmecid Efendi and İzzet Ziya. We talked to Darick Pead, who plays To 1 Feb 2015: The major new exhibition Kadınlar, Kuşlar, Yıldızlar (‘Women, Birds, Stars’), reveals the the lead role of the Beast in the mature style of Spanish artist Joan Miró, when Broadway Musical Beauty and the women, birds and stars became a major part of his Beast at Zorlu Center PSM (8-26 Oct). expressive language. Tue-Sun 10 am-6pm, Wed What does this musical mean to you? 10am-8pm. www.sakipsabancimuzesi.org. Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 42, Emirgan. T: 0212 277 2200. This musical is a beautiful love story that everyone can enjoy. I have always loved Off map. this movie and Broadway show because Sanatorium of the music and story. I feel like the Beast To 18 Oct: Stephan Kaluza’s exhibition Anımsama (‘Reminiscence’) is a collection of oil on canvas represents all of us at some point in our lives; exhibition Kusurlu Güzellik (‘Defective Beauty’) the (‘Timeless Taste: A Royal Wardrobe’) consists of works featuring black-and-white landscapes we all feel like monsters at some point and artist uses her unique visual language to tell the ceremonial and evening wear, period objects just wish people would see the goodness story of İstanbul’s constant change. Mon-Sat 11am- achieved through sharp contrasts and perspective and photographs of Italian queen Marie Josè de 7pm. www.evin-art.com. Büyük Bebek Deresi Sok. effects. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. that we possess. Savoie. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm. www.istanbul74.com. No:13, Bebek. T: 0212 265 8158. www.sanatorium.com.tr. Asmalimescit Mah. 32/ A, Off map. Kuloğlu Mah. Turnacıbaşı Cad. 9, K:2, Neşe Apt. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 6717. C4. Galerist Beyoglu. T: 0212 243 3948. C5. In his second personal exhibiton, titled Schneidertempel Art Center To 18 Oct: İstanbul’74 Karaköy ‘Narcissus’, Rasim Aksan presents his detailed 9-26 Oct: Meral Erez takes the designs in her From 21 Oct: Famous graffiti artist André Saraiva’s pencil drawings on paper, in addition to his large- animated film Haset out of the language of cinema exhibition ‘Dream Concerts’ presents posters of scale canvas works. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. and into that of painting in her exhibition concerts by legendary musicians – which never www.galerist.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67 K1, Filmden Çerçeveye (‘From Film to Frame’). took place. Tue-Fri 11am-7pm. Sat noon-7pm. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 1896. Mon-Fri 10.30am-5pm. Sun 12am-4pm. C5. www.istanbul74.com. Kemankeş Cad. Galata Şarap www.schneidertempel.com. Felek Sok. 1, Karaköy. Gallery Işık İskelesi Sok. Süha Fazlı Han, 8 D.3 Karaköy. T: 0212 249 0150. D5. 14-31 Oct: Master photographer Gültekinn Çizgen T: 0212 243 3948. D5. presents works from his 55-year-old portfolio in his İstanbul Modern The Empire Project solo show, Birikimler (‘Accumulations’). Daily 10am- Artist and researcher C. M. Kösemen’s To 9 Nov: The exhibition Yolda (‘On The Road’) To 18 Oct: 8pm. www.galeriisiktesvikiye.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 6, features photographs documenting major events first solo exhibition Telaffuz Edilmez (‘Unutterable Nişantaşı. T: 0212 233 1203. A6. in Turkey from 2003 to 2013 by Nar Photos, an Expressions’) presents a series of strange creatures, fairies and human/animal hybrids welling Gallery Manâ independent collective, reflecting its egalitarian, What is your favourite musical? up from the subconscious. To 18 Oct: Bangladeshi artist Rana Begüm democratic approach. To 27 Nov: Çok Sesli My favourite musical would have to be The presents op-art and minimalist-inspired works (‘Plurivocality’) is a selection of contemporary Mon noon-7.30pm, Tue-Sat 11am-6.30pm. Fantasticks which I performed in. I don’t featuring urban landscapes. www.galerimana.com. works that delve into the interaction between www.theempireproject.com. Sıraselviler Cad. K:1 think I would have liked it if I hadn’t been in Kemankeş Mah. Ali Paşa Değirmeni Sok. 16-18, visual and audio arts in Turkey. To 4 Jan 2015: In D:4, Taksim. T: 0212 292 5968. C5. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 6666. recognition of the centenary of Turkish cinema, it. It’s a perfect story of the stages of love, C5. Vialand one of my favourite subjects. the exhibition Yüzyıllık Aşk (‘One Hundred Years of Gallery Selvin Love’), aims to examine cinema in Turkey from the To Dec: Consisting of more than 100 works, Canlı Which musical would you like to play To 13 Oct: Evren Temel’s show Kentin Yüzleri viewpoint of the audience. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm, Müze (‘Alive Museum’) presents reproductions in the future? (‘Faces of the City’) consists of works based on the Thu 10 am-8pm. www.istanbulmodern.org. Meclis-i of works by famous artists and images that have It would be amazing to be in the musical Jersey images that we come across during our everyday Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Sahası 305, become permanently etched on human history, Boys. I’ve seen it three times – I love that show! urban lives. From 16 Oct: In his solo exhibition Antrepo 4, Karaköy. T: 0212 334 7300. D5. reinterpreted through three-dimensional video and Rüzgar (‘Wind’), Nejdet Vergili presents works that animation. Daily 10am-10pm. Which actor do you admire? originate with images from his own land, moving Kare Art Gallery www.canlimuze.com. Yeşilpınar Mah. Girne Cad. I love Jim Carrey. I watched the VHS of the To 11 Oct: Soyutla Başlamak (‘Start with towards more distant horizons in which time and Eyüp. T: 0212 397 1930. Off map. movie The Mask and that’s what made me space become an abstraction. Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. Abstraction’) presents works on abstract concepts want to be an actor. www.galeriselvin.com. Arnavutköy Dere Sok. 3, by Turkish contemporary artists including Nejat Yıldız Sarayı (Kaskat Köşkü) Arnavutköy, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 7481 Off map. Satı, Burcu Aksoy and Rafet Arslan. Tue-Sat 11am- To 17 Oct: Through 18 works from Turkey and Tell us about your musical in 7pm. www.kareartgallery.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. abroad, the exhibition Cülus Armağanları Zorlu Center PSM? Gallery Selvin 2 Ada Apt. 22/8 2/F, Nişantaşı T: 0212 240 4448. A6. (‘Ottoman Inauguration Gifts’) takes the viewer It will be amazing. I’m excited to be in İstanbul From 23 Oct: Young sculptor Mahmut Aydın Merkur Gallery back to the year 1901, to the 25th anniversary of and share a story that I’ve been performing for focuses on bodies in his exhibition O Ana Adanmış Sultan Abdülhamid II’s ascent to the throne,. Mon- (‘Dedicated to that Moment’). The silent bodies To 18 Oct: Seçkin Pirim, one of the most successful the last two years. It will be a great experience Sun 9am-9pm. www.yildizsarayi.com.tr. Barbaros reflect the instinct to protect themselves against young Turkish sculptors today, focuses on wall for the whole family. Bulvarı, Serencebey Yokuşu, 62, Beşiktaş. any and all outside interference. Tue-Sat 11am- sculptures in her exhibition ‘Glitch’. T: 0212 258 3080. Off map. What are your thoughts about İstanbul? 7pm www.galeriselvin.com. Arnavutköy Cad. 20/A www.galerimerkur.com. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. Erenler Apt. 12 D:2, Nişantaşı. I’m excited to be visiting İstanbul and be a part Arnavutköy, Beşiktaş. Off map. Zorlu Center PSM T: 0212 225 3737. A6. Alışılmışın Dışında Bir Obje: Black of its culture. I’ve always wanted to see that Hobi Sanat Gallery To 1 Nov: Pera Museum Hole (‘An Unusual Object: Black Hole’), a two- beautiful city. Friends have told me that the From 15 Oct: Hakan Esmer presents recent Mediterranean Projections bread is simply divine so I’m excited to try that. From 24 Oct: Polonya Sanatında Oryantalizm day installation exhibition by Şakir Gökçebağ works focusing on the concepts of city, time and Kadınlar, Kuşlar, Yıldızlar (‘Women, Birds, Stars’), a major new exhibition at the Sakıp They’ve also said that going to the bazaar is space. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm. www.hobigaleri.com. (‘Orientalism in Polish Art’) displays orientalist consisting of 40 umbrellas, presents viewers with Sabancı Museum, presents late-period works by renowned Spanish artist Joan just amazing too. I can’t wait! Valikonağı Cad. Pasaj 73, Nişantaşı. trends in Polish paintings, design, textiles and unusual states of everyday objects. Mon-Sun 10am- 10pm. www.zorlucenterpsm.com. Zorlu Center T: 0212 225 2337. A6. graphic works. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun noon-6pm. Miró. The works include paintings, prints, sculptures and ceramics, influenced by Zorlu Center PSM, Beşiktaş. www.peramuzesi.org.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 65, PSM, Ana Fuaye, Beşiktaş. T: 0850 222 6776. his observations of the Mediterranean region and its people (to 1 Feb 2015). (p. 25). www.zorlucenterpsm.com. İstanbul’74 Galatasaray Tepebaşı. T: 0212 334 9900. C4. Off map. To 15 Oct: Zamanın Ötesinde: Kraliçe’nin Gardrobu

24 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 25 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Black Box İstanbul Akbank Sanat Voca People, 15 Oct, 9pm: This group performs Leszek Mozdzer, 23 Oct, 7pm: The festival Lütfi Kırdar Anadolu Auditorium music of different cultures with astounding precision opens with Leszek Mozdzer, Poland’s most Juan Diego Flórez, 9 Oct, 8pm: Conducted and intriguing style. Orquesta Buena Vista Social outstanding jazz musician after Tomasz Stanko. by Sascha Goetzel, The Borusan İstanbul Club, ‘Adiós Tour’, 24 Oct, 8pm: Famous group Engin Recepoğulları Trio, 25 Oct, 7pm: Top Philharmonic Orchestra joins Peruvian tenor Juan performs in İstanbul for the last time on their farewell Turkish saxophonist Engin Recepoğulları and his Diego Flórez in its first concert of the new season. tour. Uniq İstanbul, Maslak Kültür Merkezi, Huzur group perform jazz compositions from Turkey and www.icec.org. Gümüş Cad. 4, Harbiye. Mah. Maslak Ayazağa Cad. Ayazağa Cendere Yolu, the world. Jazztopad Festival Presents: Marcin T: 0212 373 1100. A6. Maslak. T: 0212 334 0100. Off map. Masecki Solo, 26 Oct, 7pm: Marcin Masecki brings together jazz, classical and experimental CRR Concert Hall CRR Concert Hall music. Zapp4, 27 Oct, 7pm: Dutch string quartet The British singer- Budapest Festival Orchestra, 7 Oct, 8pm: Bonnie Tyler, 27 Oct, 8pm: Zapp4 is made of traditional instruments but runs Directed by Ivan Fischer, the concert features songwriter is legendary for unforgettable love a fascinating gamut of musical styles. Jazztopad works by Strauss and Mahler. songs including Total Eclipse of the Heart. İBB CRR Symphony Festival presents: Obara International, 30 Oct, On the 25th anniversary City Orchestra Past to Present, Eurovision Vol. Orchestra, 18 Oct, 8pm: 7pm: The festival welcomes alto saxophonist of the Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall, the orchestra 3 Guest Artist: Johnny Logan, 20 Oct, 8pm: Maciej Obara. Jazztopad Festival presents: presents a selection of works by Cemal Reşit Rey, The İstanbul Metropolitan Municipality City Hera, 31 Oct, 7pm: Polish composer and Orchestra’s guest is twice winner of the Eurovision one of the first-generation composers of the Turkish clarinettist Waclaw Zimpell presents his project Song Contest, Irish singer Johnny Logan. Republic. Scharoun Ensemble, 21 Oct, 8pm: ‘Hera.’ www.akbanksanat.com. İstiklal Cad. 8, One of Europe’s finest chamber music ensembles Anoushka Shankar, 6 Oct, 8pm: The talented Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 3500. C5. performs a concert of Schubert and Henze. Berlin sitarist Anoushka Shankar makes her debut Konzerthaus Chamber Orchestra, 23 Oct, 8pm: performance in İstanbul. Babylon The famous orchestra will play works by Mozart, www.crrkonsersalonu.org. Darülbedayi Cad., Mario Biondi- Sun / Maestro, 24 Oct, 10pm: Hoffmeister and Bruckner. www.crrkonsersalonu.org. Harbiye. T: 0212 232 9830. B6. Mario Biondi sings from his latest album, released Darülbedayi Cad., Harbiye. T: 0212 232 9830. B6. last year. Patricia Barber, 25 Oct, 8pm: Jazz vocalist Patricia Barber performs from her album 11. İstanbul Bach Days as well as jazz classics. José James, 29 Oct, Neve Şalom Synagogue 9.30pm: José James, masterfully blending musics The Yehudi Menuhin School, 20 Oct, 8:30pm: performs numbers from his latest album While Composed of eight students, the ensemble will You Were Sleeping. Dillon / White Mink, 31 Oct, present an exciting evening of Bach’s works. 10pm: Dominique Dillon de Byington appears in Bereketzade Mah. Büyük Hendek Cad. 61, Beyoğlu. the festival as part of the promotional tour for her T: 0212 293 7566. D4. 2014 album The Unknown. Asmalı Mescit Mah. Şehbender Sok. 3, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 7368. C5. CONCERTS: JAZZ CRR Concert Hall Salon IKSV Christian McBride Trio, 24 Oct, 8.30pm: One of Garanti Jazz Green: Red Snapper, 17 Oct, the foremost double bass players today, McBride 10pm: English Acid Jazz trio Red Snapper plays a BONNIE TYLER adds his multifaceted jazz compositions to the festival. mix of jazz, dub, trip-hop and drum & bass styles. 27 Oct, 8pm. Nefes duo Kudsi Ergüner - Michael Wollny feat. Hamdi Akatay, 25 Oct, 6pm: Ney Garanti Jazz Green: Future Islands, 10 Oct, CRR Concert Hall (p. 27) 10pm: The American synthpop group performs player Kudsi Ergüner takes the stage together in İstanbul as part of their new album tour. with young German star pianist Michael Wollny. www.saloniksv.com. Nejat Eczacıbaşı Binası, Sadi Jolly Joker İstanbul Ibrahim Maalouf - Illusions, 25 Oct, 8:30pm: Multi Award- Konuralp Cad. 4, Şişhane. T: 0212 334 0841. C5. Soul Man: Carlton J. Smith 9, 16, 23, 30 Oct, Hot trumpeter Ibrahim Maalouf performs a musical 9pm: The dynamic American singer performs a blend. www.crrkonsersalonu.org. Darülbedayi Cad. Love in Music CRR Concert Hall Winning series of weekly concerts. www.jjistanbul.com. Harbiye. T: 0212 232 9830. B6. CRR Jazz Orchestra - Selen Beytekin, 9 Oct, İstiklal Cad. Balo Sok. 22, Beyoğlu. The CRR Caz Orchestra, directed by Nail Nardis Jazz Club Disney and Broadway’s award-winning musical Beauty And The Beast 8pm: T: 0212 249 0749. C5. Musical Yavuzoğlu, accompanies Selen Beytekin in a Kathy Kosins Quintet, 31 Oct, 10.30pm: Known Salon IKSV in the 80s as a pop singer, Kosins immersed comes to Turkey for the first time, to the Zorlu Center PSM stage A recipient of an Oscar for concert entitled Jazz in the Autumn. An Evening with Chris Botti, 15 Oct, 7pm: World-famous Suuns, 11 Oct, 10:30pm: The Canadian herself in jazz in the 90s. www.nardisjazz.com. (8-26 Oct). animation, this production jazz trumpeter Botti performs from his latest indie-rock group turns out a successful blend of Kuledibi Sok. 14, Galata. T: 0212 244 6327. D5. was also a nine-time Tony progressive rock and krautrock. album Impressions, recipient of last year’s Marissa Nadler, Zorlu Center PSM irected by Rob Roth with the spell of his enemies, and the beautiful Belle. Grammy award for best instrumental pop. 16 Oct, 9.30pm: Nadler performs from her latest nominee. With its 13-year The World-famous choreography by Matt West, this To be released from the spell, the Beast must first A top names album on her European tour. www.saloniksv.com. Jamie Cullum, 30 Oct, 8.30pm: run on Broadway, this is still Cinematic Orchestra, 22 Oct, 8pm: Jamie Cullum combines jazz standards with in electronica and nu-jazz, the band performs a Nejat Eczacıbaşı Binası, Sadi Konuralp Cad. 4, classical love story features open his heart and learn to love. The story among the highest earning melodic pop and rock. D selection of old hits and new unreleased numbers. Şişhane. T: 0212 334 0841. C5. Kenny Barron - Dave unforgettable characters, plus of his relationship with the legendary Two major names in the and longest-running shows. This Grammy Holland, 31 Oct, 8.30pm: Night in Calisia, 28 Oct, 8pm: TİM Show Center world of jazz, Kenny Barron and Dave Holland, join magnificent staging and beauty Belle is brought to life in this award-winning project was conceived for the forces on the Zorlu Center stage. costumes. A recipient of stunning stage performance and 1850th anniversary of Poland’s oldest city Kalisz. - George Perris, 8 Oct, 9pm: ’s velvet-voiced singer Frangoulis performs www.zorlucenterpsm.com. Zorlu Center, Beşiktaş. the Tony and Olivier dazzling costumes. www.crrkonsersalonu.org. Darülbedayi Cad. with Greek/French vocalist Perris. Seven Kings, T: 0850 222 6776. Off map. Harbiye. T: 0212 232 9830. B6. awards for best Performed for 35 million 24 Oct, 9pm: A band performing songs of Gipsy musical, Beauty And people over its two decades, Kings. Büyükdere Cad. Derbent Mevkii, Maslak. MUSICALS CONCERTS: POP, T: 0212 286 6686. Off map. The Beast celebrates with 28,000 performances Zorlu Center PSM its 20th year with over 20 countries, Beauty TURKISH & WORLD FESTIVALS Beauty and the Beast, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 16, this special world And The Beast invites you Babylon 17, 21, 22, 23, 24 Oct, 9pm - 11, 18, 25 Oct, tour, beginning in to experience the magic of Pantha Du Prince, 18 Oct, 11:30pm: A return of 24. Akbank Jazz Festival 3.30pm - 11, 18, 25 Oct, 8.30pm - 12, 19, 26 İstanbul. romance. this top name on Hamburg’s electronic music scene. 23 Oct - 2 Nov. Famous for the world-class jazz Oct, 2.30pm - 12, 19, 26 Oct, 7.30pm: Disney The intriguing artists unforgettable performances it brings, Akbank and Broadway’s original, award-winning musical is The musical tells Zorlu Center, Beşiktaş. Chinawoman, 22 Oct, 9.30pm: Russian-Canadian vocalist returns to İstanbul. Jazz Festival is one of the longest-running music a magnificent spectacle with dazzling costumes. the story of the Beast, in T: 0850 222 6776. Asmalı Mescit Mah. Şehbender Sok. 3, Beyoğlu. festivals in Turkey. www.zorlucenterpsm.com. Zorlu Center, Beşiktaş. reality a young prince under www.zorlucenterpsm.com T: 0212 292 7368. C5. T: 0850 222 6776. Off map.

26 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 27 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE sweetbreads and artichoke confite. There are live décor and objects d’art. Must-tries include their MEYHANE & FASIL jazz performances to enhance the evening. asparagus tempura and Peking duck roll; they also Elmadağ Meyhanesi Daily 9am-1am. www.ahestegalata.com. make a mean Bloody Mary. Keeping traditional meyhane culture alive, this Hacı Mimi Mah. Serdar-ı Ekrem Cad. 30A, Beyoğlu. Daily 12pm-2am. www.group-29.com. charming meyhane serves a selection of traditional T: 0212 245 4345. C5. Ahmet Adnan Saygun Cad. Ulus Parkı içi 71/1 Ulus. Turkish, Greek and Armenian , and almost T: 0212 265 6181. Off map. Duble Bar certainly something you haven’t tried before. Every Duble is on the terrace of a building given to the 360istanbul Suada Club Friday and Saturday a live band plays old classical Italian musician Giuseppe Donizetti, as a gift by Unique delicious cuisine, a warm ambience and Turkish favourites as well as modern popular songs. Sultan Abdülmecit. The menu specialises in mezes a wonderful Bosphorus view combine with great Mon-Thu 6:30pm-12am. Fri & Sat 6:30pm-1am. made with seasonal vegetables and seafood. music and house cocktails like the lifeguard and www.elmadagmeyhanesi.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. Wed, Fri and Sat nights are livened up by the music Pink Bikini in a lively, tropical atmosphere. Pak Apt. 30/A, Elmadağ, Taksim. of DJ Aslı Köse. Sun-Thu 7pm-2am, Fri-Sat 6.30pm- Daily 10am-1pm. www.360istanbul.com. T: 0212 241 0320. B6. 2am.www.dublemezebar.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. Suada Club, Kuruçeşme Park, Beşiktaş. Galata Meyhanesi 85A, Palazzo Donizetti, Pera, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 2636623. Off map. This meyhane serves the flavours of Turkish cuisine T: 0212 244 0188. C5. Anjelique as well as fasıl music, with a four-member group Sıdıka Three-storey venue overlooking the Bosphorus, a including violin, kanun, oud and drum providing With its quiet music and simple, wooden interior, combination of restaurant, club and bar. The sea- a quintessentially Turkish atmosphere. Mon-Sat Sıdıka’s menu is based on healthy Aegean cuisine. level floor offers the exotic flavours of East Asia, 7.30pm-00.30am. www.galata.com.tr. There’s special focus on the cuisine of Cunda, an while the middle and top floors serve fine French Orhan Adli Apaydın Sok. 5/A, İstiklal Cad. Beyoğlu. island across from the town of Ayvalık, settled by dishes. Different music on each floor, sometimes by T: 0212 293 1139. C5. immigrants from Crete. Try the special shrimp and well-known DJs. Daily 6.30pm-4am. Garibaldi Meyhanesi sea bream mezes. Mon-Sat 5pm-12am. www.anjelique.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane Named after Giuseppe Garibaldi, this Beyoğlu www.sidika.com.tr. Şair Nedim Cad. 38, Beşiktaş. Sok. 5, Ortaköy. T: 0212 327 2844. A9. meyhane serves a rich selection of Turkish mezes T: 0212 259 7232. A7 / B7. Arabesque and features a fine group of musicians playing the A refreshing departure from the typical Lebanese best of Turkish classical music for a classic İstanbul restaurant with its predictable , belly evening out. www.garibaldi.com.tr. Bars & Clubs dancers and oriental glitz, Arabesque successfully Mon-Sat 10am -1am. Perukar Çıkmazı 3, İstiklal Cad. 29 Food Bar combines the oriental spirit with contemporary Beyoğlu. T: 0535 719 0343. C5. Ulus 29 Lounge’s new reincarnation, 29 Food Bar nightlife. With walls decorated by famous Beirut maintains its impressive elegance with its stylish Gurme Boncuk graffiti artist Yahya Muhakkin. Daily 8pm-2am You’ll find home-style dishes and fresh fish in this nostalgically-decorated meyhane in a bustling street. Favourites on the menu include -cured sardines and red snapper ‘kokoreç’. Mon-Sat D. www.gurmeboncuk.com.tr Asmalımescit Sok. 29, Beyoğlu. T: 0536 528 9891. C5.

Kalamata Meyhane Sortie’s Tavern took its new name after its relocation to Akaretler. Its warm atmosphere and simple interior become even more inviting with live music performances five days a week. The venue is run by 24th Akbank one of the few female tavern owners in Turkey, Beyza Jazz Served Daily Gürbüzer, who also prepares the mezes herself. Jazz Festival Daily 7:30pm-4am. Sortie, Muallim Naci Cad. 54, Nardis Jazz Club focuses mostly on mainstream sounds, especially Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 258 8788. Off map. American vocalist Kathy Latife Hanım Meyhanesi modern, fusion and ethnic jazz. Kosins performs two concerts This meyhane with its ‘Republican’ theme is full of photographs of Atatürk and modern women of the he club features changing guest at Nardis as part of the 24th Akbank Jazz Festival. new Turkish Republic, with Turkish classical songs musicians including at least one playing round the clock. The meze selection is quite T foreign artist each month, plus varied; make sure to sample the topik and . performances of other genres one day a Sun-Thu 12pm-12am, Fri-Sat 12pm-1am. week. www.latifehanim.com. İstiklal Cad. Bekar Sok. 22/A, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 0068. Nardis is a small club with a capacity of C5. 120, with a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere Safi Meyhane and original brick architecture, with a stage This modern meyhane in Şişhane serves mezes in the bar as well as the dining room. Home-style close enough to the audience to allow good dishes feature for lunch, and the mezes include quality acoustic performances. If you’re new flavours plus the venerable classics. Music feeling hungry, the menu includes chicken ranges from 70s and 80s Turkish pop and classical. and filet mignon, plus a selection of finger www.safimeyhane.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. 84, Şişhane. T: 0530 240 4908. food, pastas, salads and desserts. C4. Featuring a different musician or band High Class Fun! With a wonderful view over the Bosphorus, including the second bridge, Ulus 29’s almost every day, Nardis keeps jazz alive in modern meyhanes bar Club 29 has a dynamic spirit where music is the main attraction. The bar hosts İstanbul. Aheste DJ performances during the week, and special theme parties at weekends. This warm, retro-style restaurant offers 20 different Kuledibi Sok. 8, Galata. T: 0212 244 6327. mezes from Turkey, Iran, Armenia and Greece, Ahmet Adnan Saygun Cad. Ulus Parkı İçi 71/1, Ulus. T: 0212 358 2929 www.nardisjazz.com. including favourites such as calamari with hummus,

28 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 29 NIGHTLIFE

Taşkışla Cad. 19, Demokrasi Parkı Yanı, Maçka. Daily 6pm-3am. www.cubuklu29.com. Indigo T: 0212 231 0356. B6. Barbaros Cad.Paşabahçe Yolu 22, Çubuklu. Known as a temple of electronic music, this club T: 0216 322 2829. Off map. offers a vibrant programme based on alternative Babylon and electronic music, with new sounds and Enjoy concerts, an extensive menu, cocktail Fenix İstanbul reflecting the developments in the world of pitchers, electro, house, chill out and world This restaurant and nightclub, with a magnificent music. Fri, Sat 11pm-5am. music. Daily 8pm-4am. www.babylon.com.tr. high-ceilinged bar decorated with palm trees, www.livingindigo.com. İstiklal Cad. Akarsu Sok. Asmalımescit, Şehbender Sok. 3, Beyoğlu. serves dishes from around the world. One of the Mısır Apt. 1/2/4/5, Galatasaray. T: 0212 292 7368. city’s most elegant spots, it offers some of the C5. T: 0212 244 8568. C5. finest food and DJ performances anywhere. Babylon Lounge www.fenixistanbul.com. Thu-Sat noon-4am. Jolly Joker İstanbul One of New York’s most cutting edge music Sun-Wed noon-2am. Nispetiye Cad. 79, Etiler. With its fine acoustics and infrastructure, this venues, Babylon Lounge is a place where young T: 0212 265 5588. Off map. is a groundbreaking venue in sound quality in musicians create, discuss, meet the masters, and Turkey. Among the many genres performed are develop new ideas and projects. With its own Fosil live electronic, acoustic, funk, pop, rock, hip hop, unique musical scene, its stage is open to anyone With its unusual retro décor and unique cocktails house and techno. Mon-Sat 9:30pm-2am. OCTOBER 8-26 and everyone making good music. such as Libido and Oh Papatya, Fosil is the perfect www.jjistanbul.com. İstiklal Cad. Balo Sok. 22, Mon-Sat 10pm-2am. www.babylon.com.tr. place for a night of rock music, from Jim Morrison Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 0749. C5. The Beautiful Love Story Comes To Life! Jurnal Sok. 4, Asmalımescit. to Elvis, The Beatles and Guns N’ Roses. T: 0212 245 3800. C5. Mon & Tue 4pm-midnight. Wed-Sat 4pm-4am. Kiki www.fosil.com.tr. Kemankeş Cad. 34/C, K:3, Cocktails made with homemade syrups, a Biber Bar Karaköy. T: 0507 812 8531. D5. comfortable environment and great music come Homely atmosphere suitable for dinner and drinks together at this gastropub featuring Italian, with jazz or lounge music in the background. The Garajistanbul Spanish and world cuisine. DJs play every night. menu of mainly İstanbul and Southern American A contemporary performance arts centre located Tue-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri & Sat 5pm-5am, Sun cuisines includes steaks to burgers, salads, tapas, in Beyoğlu, staging a variety of performances inc 5pm-midnight. www.kiki.com.tr. Kiki Sıraselviler, filet mignon and chicken . theatre, dance, festivals, exhibitions, and concerts. Sıraselviler Cad. 42, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 5373. C5. Daily L & D & N. www.biberbar.com. Daily 8:30pm-2am. www.garajistanbul.org. Tomtom Kiki Ortaköy, Osmanzade Sok. 8, Ortaköy. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 26/A, Bebek. Mah. Yeni Çarşı Cad. Kaymakam Reşat Bey Sok. Off map. T: 0212 258 5524. Off map. 11/A, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 4499. C5. Bird Le Fumoir Pavillion Unique flavours from world cuisines are served up Gaspar This Bar In The Çırağan Palace Kempinski in a warm atmosphere dominated by music from Located in an old three-storey, high-ceilinged İstanbul boasts a splendid view directly onto the the 50s and 60s. The menu here features mostly building this Karaköy venue is always full to bosphorus. With palm trees, water pipe service meat dishes with impressive portions, such as steak overflowing thanks to its quality French food and comfortable seating, the venue exudes tartare and green curries, with their own special and great music. Mon-Thu 10am-12am. Fri&Sat Romance Savour, premium cognacs, malt whiskies, cocktails. Mon-Sat 11am-2pm. www.bird.com.tr. 10am-4am. Müeyyeyzade Mah. Necatibey Cad. exclusive wines, champagnes, and cocktails. Meşrutiyet Cad. 103, Şişhane, Beyoğlu. Arapoğlan Sok. 6, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 6660. D5. Daily 7/24. www.kempinski.com. Çırağan Cad. 32, T: 0212 245 7085. C4. Gold Bar Beşiktaş. T: 0212 326 4646. Off Map. Bleu Lounge & Grill Gold Bar has a brilliant, six-metre long aquarium. Limoncello With a Bosphorus view and comfortable ambience, The main area, available for small parties, is Named after the famous Italian liqueur, this Bleu serves tempting cocktails and gourmet flanked by a comfortable seating area with low exclusive boutique nightspot boasts colourful flavours all day long. In addition, they feature a sofas. This welcoming venue also features a lush furniture under lemon trees, fresh fruit cocktails, different style of live music every day of the week. green terrace, a perfect place to take a pleasant and performances by top name DJs. Tue-Sat Daily 10am-2am. www.ritzcarlton.com. break from the bustle of city life. Daily 9am-2am. 10pm-3am. www.limoncello.com.tr. Süleyman Seba Ritz Carlton, İstanbul, Askerocağı Cad. 6, Şişli. Every Wed&Fri 7pm-11pm Lounge / Chill Out DJ Cad. 34, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 9822. B7. T: 0212 334 4188. B6. sessions. www.editionhotels.com. The İstanbul Edition Hotel, Büyükdere Cad. 136, Lucca Chilai Levent. T: 0212 317 7700. Off map. Spacious restaurant-bar with ample armchairs, long Located directly on the Bosphorus, the venue wooden tables and a high ceiling, serving as a café brings a breath of fresh air to İstanbul’s nightlife Hayal Kahvesi until 7pm, after which the menu offers a blend of with its unusual contemporary décor and This popular venue hosts live performances by world cuisines and the DJ performance takes over. #guzelvecirkin bold dishes prepared by renowned chefs. The different bands every night. This is one of İstanbul’s most popular bars, and three-floor dining complex includes a sushi bar, www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com.tr. popular with the after-work crowd. Daily 10am- bistro, lounge, bar, dining room, pastry shop, Hayal Kahvesi Beyoğlu, Daily 4pm-4am. İstiklal Cad. 2am. www.luccastyle.com. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 51/B, c h a r c u t e r i e a n d a r t g a l l e r y . M o n - S a t 1 0 p m - 2 a m . Meşelik Sok. 10, Taksim. T: 0212 244 2558. C5. Bebek. T: 0212 257 1255. Off map. www.chilai.com.tr. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 60, Bebek. Hayal Kahvesi Çubuklu, Daily 4pm-4am. T: 0212 263 6315. Off map. There are 2 restaurants; Tapas and İstanbul Balık. Masquerade Club www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com. Famous R&B singers and DJs from Turkey and and at the box office. Corridor Burunbahçe, Eski Gazhane Binaları, Çubuklu. abroad perform music from around the world This dark and intimate bar located in the deepest T: 0216 413 6880. Off map. at this new club with a capacity of 2000. Making corner of the Milli Reasürans Çarşısı (market) hosts a name for itself with its unusual concepts and zorlucenterpsm.com art shows and photographic exhibitions. House Hodjapasha Culture Center performances, Masquerade creates a visual and Tickets exclusively at music during weekdays changes to 80s tunes later This cultural centre located in the historic musical celebration. Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 11pm-5am. in the evening; alternative rock and popular hits Hocapaşa Hamam presents an ever-changing Yıldız Posta Cad. Sinan Pasajı No:38/26 Gayrettepe. from the 80s and 90s dominate the sounds during series of exhibitions and performances, presenting T: 0212 347 1347. Mobile: 0533 027 0387. weekends. Mon-Sat 5pm-1.30am. Milli Reasürans the finest examples of Turkish culture. The brick mas queradeistanbul.com. Off map. Çarşısı, 47-48, Abdi İpekçi Cad. Nişantaşı. and stone building with its high central dome hosts T: 0212 343 0241. A6. many fascinating events including the Mevlevi Members İstanbul Sema Ceremony (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun 7.30pm) An impressive-looking Bosphorus nightspot where, Çubuklu 29 and the Hodja Pasha Dance Show (Tue & Thur the excellent DJs play mostly Turkish hits, with the Overlooking the Bosphorus, Çubuklu 29 occupies 8pm, Sat & Sun 9pm) performed by the Hocapaşa fun continuing until the crack of dawn. a spacious building illuminated by lanterns. In Dance Team. www.hodjapasha.com. Ankara Cad. Tue-Sat 10pm-4am. Muallim Naci Cad. 71, Ortaköy. addition to its pool open during the day. Tandoori Hocapaşa Hamamı Sok. 3B, Sirkeci. T: 0212 236 7357. Off map. lamb, with and grilled meatballs are T: 0212 511 4626/4636. E5. just some of the specialties on offer.

30 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE

Hotel Jumeriah, Meşrutiyet Cad. 52, Tepebaşı, way. In the wee hours, Cahide’s show team entertainment spot at night. The evening starts Beyoğlu. T: 0212 3774000. C4. presents a wet dance performance under a shower. with soft chansons, replaced by disco hits as the Daily 7pm-2am. Kadırgalar Cad. Maçka Demokrasi night progresses. Daily 8:30pm-5am. Pop Parkı içi 2, Maçka. T: 0532 513 7789. B6. www.etilersamdan.com. Nispetiye Cad. 92, Etiler. This venue in Nupera has something to suit every Office: İhsan Aksoy Sok. 5/8, Çamlık, Etiler. taste, playing top hits from the 80s to the present. Club Albüm T: 0212 257 3042. Off map. With its informal atmosphere and great selection Turkish pop parties every night, at this nightspot of drinks, Pop has become one of the most popular overlooking the Bosphorus, are followed by live Zelda Zonk spots in Pera. Wed, Fri, Sat 12am-4am. percussion and dance shows. The deluxe drink Newly opened on the upper floor of the Gradiva www.nupera.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Tepebaşı. menu serves a host of original, tempting cocktails. Hotel overlooking the Golden Horn, Zelda Zonk T: 0212 245 6070. C4. Daily 11pm-5am.Muallim Naci Cad. 71, Kuruçeşme. has a simple menu, but after 11pm it turns into a T: 0212 236 7256.Off map. bar with DJ performances until dawn. Mon-Sat Public House 10pm-4am.www.gradivahotels.com. Bankalar Cad. This cosy pub is ideally equipped to host parties Hittaera 2/1, Karaköy. T: 0530 382 3822. D4. and other special events. The cold and hot snacks, Playing Turkish songs from past to present, this shots and pitcher cocktails are delicious. venue hosts prominent DJs, plus top cocktails and Zilly Pera Daily 8am-2am. Asmalımescit Mah. 9, Beyoğlu. nonstop entertainment. Tue-Sat 11:30pm-4am. Falling somewhere in between a disco and T: 0534 211 6062. C4. Meşrutiyet Cad. 89/A, across from the Pera Palas nightclub, Zilly is one of Istanbul’s most popular Hotel, Asmalımescit, Beyoğlu. T: 0536 594 1139. C4. music spots. Sporting a 70s atmosphere, Zilly keeps Reina the fun going until dawn with old and new Turkish Gazing over the Bosphorus, you can begin Off Pera songs. Tue-Sat 11pm-4:30am. Meşrutiyet Cad. 69, your night out dining in one of its six different A popular venue for musicians and actors, Off Beyoğlu. T: 0533 575 3397. C4. restaurants featuring diverse themes. Pera provides a nonstop programme of Turkish Entertainment every night with chill out, pop and music. This pop spot in Beyoğlu’s Asmalımescit Turkish pop music. Very glamorous; phone to make neighbourhood holds different themes through wıne bars reservations. Daily 7pm-4am. www.reina.com.tr. the week: Tuesday nights with Asu Maro, selections Rouge Muallim Naci Cad. 44, Ortaköy. T: 0212 259 5919. A9. from classical, opera and famous musicals by Güvenç Dağüstün on Wednesdays. Located near , this classic wine Sofyalı 9 Daily 4pm-4am. Gönül Sok. Canova Apartmanı bar has over 260 Turkish and foreign wines, Very popular two-storey restaurant with the accompanied by local cheeses, appetizers and 14/A, Asmalımescit. T: 0212 249 2697. C4. atmosphere of an Aegean-Mediterranean taverna. main courses. Pleasant atmosphere, with walls Greek music and cuisine including a choice of 33 Scotch Disco filled with art. Daily 10am-2am. Lamartin Cad. 11/3, meze (appetizers). Mon-Sat 12pm-1am. With a 20-year history, this venue offers Turkish Taksim. T: 0212 237 0190. B6. www.sofyali.com. Asmalımescit, Sofyalı Sok. 9, music and DJs, offering the unique experience of Sensus Wine & Cheese Boutique Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 0362. C5. the music halls of the 1980s. Serves beer and fresh popcorn. Daily 10:30pm-5am. Owned by the Anemon Hotels, Sensus doubles Sortie www.scotchclub.com.tr. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 29/1, as a wine and cheese shop. Close to the historic Located in the old Bosphorus neighbourhood of Galata Tower, this typical wine bar boasts Nişantaşı. T: 0212 246 5696. A6. Kuruçeşme. Sortie welcomes its guests with Turkish exclusively local cheeses and wines. Daily 10am- CHIRISTIAN McBrıde trıo music on Wednesdays and R&B on Sunday nights. Şamdan Etiler 10pm. www.sensuswine.com. Anemon Hotel 24th Akbank Jazz Festival Daily 7pm-4am. www.sortie.com.tr. Muallim Naci Offering a magnificent interior and selections Galata, Bereketzade, Büyükhendek Cad. 5, An Entertainment Classic 24 Oct, 8.30pm, Located in a popular city spot, Etiler Şamdan offers a menu of Turkish and world Cad. 54, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 327 8585. Off map. from world cuisines, Şamdan turns into a popular Kuledibi. T: 0212 245 5657. D4. CRR Concert Hall, p. 27 cuisine with the fun continuing until dawn. Low lighting and columns provide a sense Suada Club of privacy, accompanied by music, mainly favourite Turkish pop songs. İstanbul residents and visitors alike take refuge from the heat of summer in the soft Bosphorus JAMIE CULLUM Wednesday nights. Daily 5pm-2am. İstiklal Cad. 12, Nispetiye Cad. 30, Etiler. T: 0212 257 3042. breeze sweeping the pool and restaurants of Suada 24th Akbank Jazz Festival K:6, Fitaş Binası. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2451. Club. Easily accessible thanks to its central location C4. 30 Oct, 8.30pm, in the city, and housing six restaurants, Suada Club Unter, Karaköy Zorlu Center PSM, is sure be a hot spot this year as well. An ideal spot Unter’s ground floor is a café, the next is a lounge, p. 27 Minimüzikhol Nomads for an aperitif after work, the middle bar of Suada and the top floor a party space. Try the Caipiroska If you’re out to avoid ‘subculture’, set your own At Nomads, dishes are served with bread on Club entertains its guests throughout the summer cocktail with Jaegermeister, and the long relaxed trend and dance to world music, local sounds and large brass trays, accompanied by DJ Hakan’s with live performances. www.suadaclub.com.tr. Sunday breakfasts. Private overnight parties with electronic beats, then check out this new spot sublime mix of Arab and Western music. With a Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 263 7300. Off map. music by DJs promise great entertainment until in hip Cihangir. DJ performances, special events bright, airy garden surrounded by alcoves with dawn. Tue-Thu 9am-12am, Fri 9am-2am, Sat 9am- Sultana’s 1001 Nights Show and a very unique atmosphere created by to its 2am, Sun 9am-10pm. www.unter.com.tr. pillows and couches, and Bosphorus views from the Venue offering authentic Turkish-themed shows. unusual decor. 11pm-4am. www.minimuzikhol.com. Kemankeş, Karaali Kaptan Sok. 4, Karaköy, Beyoğlu. top floor. Tue-Sat; 8pm-2am. Tables surround a raised centre stage, featuring Sıraselviler Cad. Soğancı Sok. 7, Cihangir. T: 0212 244 5151. www.nomads.nl. Muallim Naci Cad. 65, Ortaköy. shows that begin with belly dancing, followed by D5. T: 0212 245 1996. C5. T: 0212 258 0777. A9. folk dances and a harem show. . W Lounge Mojo Nupera Daily 9am-5am. www.sultanasb-nights.com. One of the trendiest spots in İstanbul, hosting a Just off İstiklal Caddesi and much frequented by Launched in 2001 in the 200 year-old Passage Cumhuriyet Cad. 40/D, Elmadağ. multitude of parties accompanied by fine music. artists and writers, Mojo is loved for its alternative de Petit Champs, Nupera houses a variety of T: 0212 219 3904. B6. Extensive menu, stylish decoration and ambiance. rock, jazz, ethnic and rock music as well as live restaurants, a bar and private club with an open Tue-Sat 24 hours. www.wistanbul.com.tr. Supper Club music by local and foreign bands on Mon-Sat Süleyman Seba Cad. 22, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. terrace during the summer – something for Part of a chain launched in Amsterdam, this 10pm-4am. Daily 12am-4am. T: 0212 381 2121. everyone. Daily 6pm-12am. Fri&Sat 6pm-4am. nightclub offers electronic, chill out, funk and B7. www.mojobeyoglu.com. Büyükparmakkapı Sok. 26, www.nupera.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Tepebaşı, house music, and an alternative menu. Daily Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2927. C5. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 6070. C4. 11:30pm-5am. www.supperclub.com. Muallim Naci TURKISH MUSIC Nardis Jazz Club Orient Bar Cad. 65, Ortaköy. T: 0212 261 1988. A9. Cahide Cümbüş A true jazz club for real local jazz fans, with live Breakfast, Turkish and Mediterranean treats and a Topless Teras Guests are given different J&B keys with music nightly modern, ethnic and creative non-jazz wide variety of snack dishes served on an elegant. This popular İstiklal Caddesi meeting spot at the designs based on the concept of each room at works. Extensive menu inc finger food, steak and The meals are complemented by original cocktails top of the Fitaş building boasts a terrace with a Cahide, which takes a very unique approach chicken plus salads and desserts. Mon-Sat 8:30am- plus domestic and foreign wines served all day. magnificent view over the Golden Horn, with a to entertainment. Bellboys take guests and 1:30am. www.nardisjazz.com. Galata Kulesi Sok. 8, Daily 10pm-2am. www.jumeirah.com. Pera Palace host of special events including tango dances on their luggage to the selected rooms. Fairy tale Galata. T: 0212 244 6327. D5. characters approach in an erotic and humorous

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Freedom and Flexibility The Mavi Mavi’s denim this season brings flexibility, motion and comfort Woman Mavi continues to keep pace to the forefront. with new trends without erfect for the busy pace of the city and giving up the iconic denim appropriate for every occasion, the new look. The biker and bomber jeans offer freedom of motion and a more jackets Mavi’s Urban and Casual P themed 2014 Autumn-Winter refined look. With their four-fold staying power, the new Gold series holds its shape the whole collection are the undisputed day through. stars of the season. The scuba The Recall In Shape weaving technology brings trend, which takes advantage of out the lines of the body with the highest quality neoprene’s lightness to bring it stretch quotient. With their silky texture into everyday life, shows up in nd fabric that feels like a second skin, dresses, leggings and mini skirts. these jeans both thin the legs and afford freedom of motion, guaranteeing a sexy, elegant and in-shape look at every moment.

İstinyePark Shopping Centre, Giriş Katı, 9, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5442.

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galleries. With its national and international brands, Ataköy Plus SHOPPING CENTRE MAP pleasant cafes, restaurants and quality nightlife, Ataköy Plus Shopping Centre is open to it is a favourite area especially with İstanbul’s exploration with an architectural aesthetics, elite crowd. Nişantaşı lies at busy hub of several spacious circulation spaces, and special services major streets (the busiest of which are Teşvikiye, that make shopping an insatiable experience. Valikonağı and Rumeli Avenues) and it’s easy to get Situated on the coastal road only five minutes from to, a quick dolmuş ride from Taksim Square. A6. the Atatürk International Airport, Ataköy Plus offers 140 brands original designs. www.atakoyplus.com. Daily 10am-10pm. Adnan Kahveci Bulvarı, Ataköy SHOPPING CENTRES 6. Kısım Ataköy, Bakırköy. T: 0212 661 7515. Off map.

Addresİstanbul Capacity With a host of leading Turkish and foreign Four-storey shopping centre with 180 stores home furnishing and houseware stores offering, carrying Turkish and foreign brands. Sephora, hundreds of brands, this shopping centre has Banana Republic, Gap and many more brands everything you need to decorate an entire flat in cater to a vast range of tastes while Electro World a single day. Take a break for a delicious treat at serves technology-savvy customers. Fast food, Kitchenette Restaurant, and enjoy live music on restaurants and movie theaters. Daily 10am-10pm. Sundays. Daily 10am-7pm. www.capacity.com.tr. Zeytinlik Mah. Fişekhane www.addresistanbul.com. Halide Edip Adıvar Cad. 7, Bakırköy. T: 0212 661 6705. Off map. Bulvarı Mah. Çiftecevizler Deresi Sok. 4, Şişli. T: 0212 320 6262. Off map. Capitol Major shopping and entertainment centre with Akasya Acıbadem stores, restaurants and fourteen movie theatres. This largest shopping mall on İstanbul's Asian side Various activities organised every week. Daily offers famous world brands, 10 movie theatres, a 10am-10pm. www.capitol.com.tr. Mahir İz Cad. concert hall, a theatre, and Kidzania, where children Altunizade, Üsküdar. T: 0216 554 7777. Off map. can meet, play and take part in over 60 different activities. Daily 10am-10pm. www.ak-asya.com. City’s Major Shopping Makers, Jewellers, Mirror Makers, etc. This is the Çeçen Sok. Koru Etabı, Koru Kule, K:36, 192, City’s Nişantaşı is a centre of fashion and style. place for hand-woven carpets, jewellery, traditional Acıbadem. T: 0216 428 3132. Off map. Leading national and international brands, Areas Turkish art, famous Turkish style silverware, copper, delightful cafés and restaurants, dazzling bronze giftware and decorative objects, ceramics, Akmerkez architecture. Entertainment for children and 7 Akaretler Row Houses onyx, leather products and souvenirs from all over Offering the best local and foreign brands in movie theatres. Citylife’s cinema foyer with its Built in 1875 by Ottoman Sultan Abdülaziz, the Turkey. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. an elegant shopping atmosphere as well as an peerless sea view adds to the pleasure. The fun beautiful Akaretler Row Houses has a new lease on www.kapalicarsi.org.tr. Beyazıt-Eminönü. E4. array of entertainment and social venues, Joker lasts late into the evening. Daily 10am-10pm. life since its huge renovation. New life has been Entertainment Park promises a good time for www.citysnisantasi.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, breathed into this Beşiktaş neighbourhood and it’s Çukurcuma children and adults alike. Papermoon, located at Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 3333. A6. now one of İstanbul’s foremost cultural quarters, World-renowned for its antique shops, this the Ulus entrance, serves Italian cuisine. offering a host of colourful art galleries, stylish area has the atmosphere of an old Ottoman Daily 10am-10pm. www.akmerkez.com.tr. Demirören İstiklal cafés and restaurants, and a tempting selection neighbourhood. Antique shops are scattered Nispetiye Cad. Etiler. T: 0212 282 0170. Opened upon the rebuilding of the Sin-Em Han, of designer shops. Officially named Şair Nedim through the streets. Mon-Fri 9am-7pm. Sat-Sun Shopping Centre Map (p.32). home in the 1930s to the famous Saray pudding Caddesi, this sloping street, with the W Hotel as 9am-7pm. Çukurcuma Cad. Firuzağa Mah. shop and the Lüks cinema, this 25,000 square a prominent landmark, is lined with commercial Faik Paşa Cad. Turnacıbaşı Sok. Beyoğlu. Aqua Florya metre venue is home to a host of famous shops galleries such as Rampa, Art On Gallery and T: 0505 709 3857. C5. This shopping mall offering world-class brands and including Sephora, Brandroom, the Satürn Galerist, and design house Autobahn. Find luxury entertainment hides an added surprise: The İstanbul technology chain, the Gap and Atasun Optik. Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar jewel-encrusted pieces at Sevan Bıçakçı, tasteful Aquarium, the largest thematic aquarium in the world. Daily 10am-10pm.www.demirorenistiklal.com. Alongside the New Mosque (Yeni Cami) and next linens and household items at Haremlique, and Learn about aquatic life in the world's oceans, lakes T: 0212 249 9999.İstiklal Cad. 52-54, Beyoğlu. to the Flower Market, the Egyptian Bazaar is one of C5. prepare for the Big Day at Vakko Wedding. Should and rivers, and enjoy a meal at one of the many cafes the oldest covered bazaars in İstanbul, renowned you need a break after all that browsing and and restaurants overlooking the Marmara Sea. Galleria for its herbalists. In addition to spices, Turkish shopping, tempting treats await at stylish Cafe Daily 10am-10pm. www.aquaflorya.com.tr. A major shopping centre featuring world delight (lokum), and other souvenirs, natural Minyon (part of W Hotel), or taste top Turkish wines Şenlikköy Mah.Yeşilköy Halkalı Cad. 93, Florya. brands as well as a broad range of restaurants, medicines, herbs, flower seeds, roots and barks of entertainment, sports activities and striking paired with cheeses at Corvus. T: 0212 574 5900. Off map. www.akaretler.com.tr. Süleymen Seba Cad. rare plants used in traditional medicine as well as a interiors. Daily 10am-10pm. vast selection of dried nuts, delicatessen products Maçka, Beşiktaş. B7. www.galleria-atakoy.com. Sahilyolu, Ataköy. and other food items are available. Mon-Sat Guidelines T: 0212 559 9560. Off map. Bağdat Caddesi 8:30am-6:30pm. Eminönü Square. E4. Named after Murat IV’s successful campaign to This directory, grouped by category, is a list of İstanbul Cevahir recapture Baghdad, this posh street on İstanbul’s İstiklal Caddesi establishments recommended by the editors of The city centre’s largest shopping mall lets you Asian side extends from Kızıltoprak in Kadıköy to In the historical district of Beyoğlu, which was the Where Magazine and includes regular shop any time you want. In addition to a slew Cevizli in Maltepe. The section between Suadiye primary neighbourhood of the foreign community advertisers. of top-rated stores, it also boasts cafés and and Caddebostan is especially well known for its as well as non-Muslim Ottoman subjects, Beyoğlu restaurants offering flavours from around the gradually attained a European look with the arrival MAP LOCATIONS exclusive shops, cafés and restaurants frequented world, a movie theatre, state theatres and the Fun of foreign embassies as well as Christians from Note that the references in bold at the end of by local youth and business people. Many top Lab Entertainment World for children. Daily 10am- Galata, eventually forming a new community in each listing (A1; B5 etc) refer to the coordinates Turkish and world brands have at least one shop on the street maps on pages 70-71. 10pm. www.istanbulcevahir.com. Büyükdere Cad. 17th-century İstanbul. The allure of the street here. Well served by public transportation, this 22/A, Şişli. T: 0212 368 6900. Off map. faded in the 1970s but was followed by major bustling street with its chic restaurants and cafes information revival in early 1990s. It is now a the city’s major İstinyePark is an excellent place to go window shopping and Visitors should note that Value Added Tax (VAT) entertainment district, full of bars, clubs, cafés, people watching. Off map. varies between 8% and 18% and is generally In addition to the top brands this shopping restaurants, and scores of top shopping brands. included in the price of goods. Overseas visitors centre offers, it stands out with its architecture. Covered (Grand) Bazaar Beyoğlu. C5. can shop tax-free in Turkey recouping around 5 Designed to cater to a host of tastes and needs, it Built in 1461, this amazing complex, the world’s to 13% of these amounts, respectively. demonstrates a distinct concept with 147 clothing Nişantaşı oldest shopping center, is a colossal maze taking Look for shops with signs for Global Refund stores and 43 world brands. Various theme areas Nişantaşı is both a lively and bustling in 66 streets and 4,000 stores— all covered. Each (T: 0212 232 1121) and DSD Refund including Brands Street, Nostalgic Marketplace neighbourhood and an area known for its exclusive (T: 0212 546 0790). street in the Bazaar is named after the specific and Children’s Entertainment Centre in addition shopping centres, brand-name stores, malls and guild that once inhabited it, such as the Kalpak to nearly 40 cafés and restaurants, and 12 movie

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Çobançeşme, Koşuyolu Bulvarı 3, Bakırköy. Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Beşiktaş. SHOPPING CENTRE MAP T: 0212 414 9494. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). T: 0212 444 9496. Off map.

Metro City Accessible by subway, this shopping centre ANTIQUES AND offering world brands, restaurants, and book stores is also popular for its regular events. Beymen Club COLLECTIBLES and Vakko stores offer top-line smart and smart- Horhor Antique Centre casual men’s and women’s clothing. Daily 10am- This seven-storey building is famous with local 10pm. www.metrocity.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 171, antique collectors, and each object here has a 1. Levent. T: 0212 344 0660. story, from armour worn by an English knight in Shopping Centre Map (p.38). his last battle, to the massive armchair of a French aristocrat. Daily 10am-6pm. www.horhor.com. Optimum Kırk Sok. 24, Horhor, Aksaray. Bringing the outlet concept into the city centre, E2. Optimum İstanbul serves nearly nine million visitors Khaftan Art & Antique a year in the bustling neighbourhood of Kadıköy A delightful venue hosting a collection of fine on the Asian side. In addition to famous brands antiques and works by modern Turkish artists. like Tommy Hilfiger, Fracassetti and Diesel, you’ll Khaftan’s vast array includes Ottoman era textiles, find local brands like Derimod, Vakko and Atasay. ceramics, silverworks, oriental paintings, books, There’s a huge daylit food court and open-air engravings and maps collected both in Turkey terraces, plus a 540 m2 ice skating rink. and abroad. Also available are oil paintings by Daily 10am-10pm. www.optimumoutlet.com. contemporary Turkish artists, miniature paintings İstiklal Sok. 10/4, Yenisahra, Ataşehir. and calligraphic art. Daily 9am-8pm. T: 0216 664 1414. Off map. www.khaftan.com. Sultanahmet, Şifa Hamamı Sok. 16, T: 0212 458 5425. F5. Palladium Largest shopping centre in İstanbul’s Asian side. Portakal Art And Culture House In addition to 170 large stores, movie theatres and The Portakal Family has contributed to Turkish arts an excellent food court, it also includes a 32-storey and culture for three generations, since early 20th residence. Its inspiring architecture includes a century provide art consultancy services for private colossal glass hemisphere for a roof. The chic mall museums, institutions and special collections. also houses world-renowned brands including Mon-Sat 9am-7:30pm. www.rportakal.com. Marks&Spencer, C&A, Banana Republic, Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 8, Nişantaşı. and Zara. Daily 10am-10pm. T: 0212 225 4637. A6. www.palladium.com.tr. Barbaros Mah. Sahaflar Çarşısı Halk Cad. 8/B, Yeni Sahra, Kozyatağı. The oldest market to have survived from Ottoman T: 0216 663 1500. Off map. times, it is located on Beyazıt Square in the Sapphire historical neighbourhood of Beyazıt, next to the At 261 metres high, İstanbul Sapphire is the Grand Bazaar. A must-see for booklovers visiting city's tallest combined shopping mall and the Grand Bazaar, with old and new Turkish and andresidential building; it’s also Turkey’s first foreign books, as well as old banknotes, coins and ‘green’ structure, and one of few such buildings stamps. Eminönü, Çadırcılar Cad. 103-203, in the world. Combining western, traditional and Beyazıt. E4. modern architecture, Sapphire presents a modern shopping experience with prestigious world theatres inc a 3D IMAX screen. Daily 10am-10pm. www.kanyon.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Levent. brands and entertainment. Daily 10am-10pm. Bookstores www.istinyepark.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. 73, T: 0212 317 5300. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). www.istanbulsapphire.com. Emniyet Evleri, Eski D&R Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5555. Büyükdere Cad. 1/1, Levent. T: 0212 268 8080. Offers a broad selection of books, music, films, Mall of İstanbul Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Shopping Centre Map (p.38). electronics, games, gifts and stationary in a Offering both indoor and outdoor street shopping, modern and relaxed atmosphere, with 45 stores Trump Towers Mall Forumİstanbul this mall contains around 350 shops, elegant throughout İstanbul. Check website for the nearest This mall that offers shopping, movies, a place to In addition to shopping, Forum İstanbul offers an gourmet restaurants, cinemas, arts events and store. Daily 10am-10pm. www.dr.com.tr. perform music, a gym and a convention hall also extensive choice of leisure activities. At the top of MoiPark for children. One of Turkey’s largest Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre K:1, has a play center and ice skating school for kids. the list of attractions is Turkuazoo, Turkey's first and shopping malls, it also features the Traditional 179, Levent. T: 0212 353 0870. Daily 10am-10pm. www.trumpistanbul.com.tr. biggest aquarium. The mall also boasts a 10-screen Art Street offering examples of Turkish art. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Karkuyusu Sok. 19, Şişli. T: 0212 348 7867. Off map. movie theatre, a game and entertainment centre, Daily 10am-10pm. www.mallofistanbul.com.tr Süleyman Demirel Bulvarı, Mahmutbey, bowling alley, play spaces for children and a host of Vialand Başakşehir. T: 0212 801 1000. dining choices. Look out for the newest addition: Off map. Turkey’s first world-class mega theme park offers Carpets Jurassic Land, an 8000-m2 family entertainment Marmara Forum a host of different entertainment alternatives Agora Halı centre set due to open later this year. Daily 10am- The Marmara Forum shopping centre is home to including a show centre, shopping centre, a 5000- This amazing store’s 18,000-piece private 10pm. www.forumistanbul.com.tr. Kocatepe Mah. world brands, and brings new ideas and trends seat auditorium plus a train, a roller coaster and collection includes regional carpets such as Old other rides and theme zones. www.vialand.com.tr. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 443 1350. to Turkey. In addition to famous men’s, women’s Kazak, Konya, Sivas, Bergama and Uşak, plus the Yeşilpınar Mah. Girne Mah. Eyüp. T: 0212 618 9797. exciting Contemporary Art collection. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). and kids’ clothing and lingerie brands – including www.agorarug.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. Massimo Dutti, Benetton, Mango, Lacoste, DKNY, Off map. Kanyon Türbedar Sok. 9, Cağaloğlu. T: 0212 528 7441. E4. GAP and Armani Kids – you’ll also find top national Zorlu Center Major shopping centre with 160 stores, 9 movie and international jewellery brands like Atasay, This mall in the heart of the city is home to luxury Loomart theatres and a health and sports club. Pleasant Gülaylar, Assos and Swarovski. The mall is also boutique stores including Beymen, plus Turkey’s When it comes to aesthetics, LoomArt is atmosphere offering the best Turkish and world home to 15 cinemas, and the largest Food Court first outlets of brands such as Brooks Brothers, committed to the best in carpet design. Its brands, gourmet restaurants, cafés, open air in İstanbul, with 65 different cafes and restaurants. Industrie Denim, Cos, Lanvin, Pomellato, Stella huge collection includes unusual antique pieces performances and dazzling colours and sounds. And not forgetting the two separate terraces with McCartney and Superdry. The venue also has 14 from Kerman, Konya and Tabriz (Iran), funky Restaurants and cafés in Kanyon offer early views of the Marmara Sea. Daily 10am-10pm. cinemas, including two VIP cinemas with 1,600 contemporary pieces with bold designs and bright breakfasts and late dinners. Daily 10am-10pm. www.marmara-forum.com.tr. Osmaniye, seats each. Daily 10am-10pm. www.zorlucenter.com. colours, and woven kilims. Some of its larger

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Jeans, EA7 and Armani Junior all in one place. shirts and blouses, you’ll fine classic shirts, white You’ll also find a wide range of accessories shirts and a host of original styles. SHOPPING CENTRE MAP including watches, glasses, perfumes, jeans, Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm, Sun 12am-7pm. lingerie and jewellery. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 41, www.naracamicie.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Nişantaşı. A6. Bostan Sok. Ayda Apt. 11 / 1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 236 5600. A6.

Burberry Network Clothing for women, men, children and babies Network is a global brand inspired by the inc a winning mix of classic and funky raincoats, multicultural character of the 21st century, separates and accessories. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. introducing new trends for men and women. www.burberry.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 1, Nişantaşı. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.network-tr.com. T: 0212 241 5516. A6. Teşvikiye Cad. 103, Nişantaşı. Dolce & Gabanna T: 0212 236 6579. A6. The creation of Italian designers Domenico Ralph Lauren Dolce and Stefano Gabanna, this famous brand Athletic and inspiring garments, coats and jackets dazzles the eyes with its brilliant designs. The new give the feeling of an American holiday. Ralph collection makes heavy use of wool with black, gold Lauren offers unique choices for lovers of the and lamé designs. Daily 10am-10pm. classics with its Purple Label and Black Label lines www.dolcegabbana.com. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu and more casual selections with Polo Ralph Lauren. Cad. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3398. Off map. Daily 10am-10pm. www.ralphlauren.com. İstinye Emporio Armani Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 58, Sarıyer. Italy’s most famous fashion brand, Emporio T: 0212 345 7012. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Armani offers ready-to-wear, jewellery, lingerie, Tom Ford glasses and watches while renewing itself with the One of the world’s most prestigious brands, famed appealing and unique designs of its EA07 watch for its outlandish, unique styles, this store presents and Kaka jean creations. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.emporioarmani.com. İstinyePark Shopping one of the designer’s most astounding collections in a contemporary atmosphere. Mon-Sat 10am- creations as the Pera Palace Hotel, and residence Fratelli Italia De Delfino. www.corentte.com. Centre 519, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6110. 8pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad 46/B, Nişantaşı. of the President of Turkey! Daily 8:30am-7:30pm. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. İkizler Apt. 14/3, Nişantaşı. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). T: 0212 296 7575. A6. www.loomart.com. On the boutiques floor of T: 0212 247 0445. Off map. Giorgio Armani The Ritz-Carlton. Gümüşsuyu, Askerocağı Cad. 9, Damat/Tween The miraculous Italian line that shapes fashion with Zara Elmadağ. T: 0212 252 5095. B6. Spanish brand offering men’s, women’s and The Damat Collection’s main fabric line consists its simple yet stylish collection stands out with its children’s clothing. Some of its stores, inc Zara Mevlana Rug Store of specially woven, environmentally friendly, wool casual, smart designs ideal for business life. Daily Carries the best collection of carpets from each and wool blend Bio-Tech fabrics that are both 10am-10pm. www.giorgioarmani.com. İstinye Bayırı Home, feature home furnishings and accessories. region of Turkey. Carpets of wool on wool, wool sophisticated and eye-catching. Daily 10am-10pm. Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 518, Sarıyer. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.zara.com. Metro City on cotton, silk on silk also carries semi-old and www.damat.com.tr. Valikonağı Cad. 63, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 345 6110. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Shopping Centre G, 1. Levent. T: 0212 344 00 44. old carpets from all around the world with a staff T: 0212 343 8550-51. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). A6. Gucci since 1950. Daily 7:30am-9:30pm.Sultanahmet Mah. Ermenegildo Zegna Italian fashion brand with shoes, handbags, Torun Sok.1, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 517 1260. F4. The brand offers two distinct lines inc Zegna Sport luggage, leather goods, furs, a ready-to-wear Clothing - Women Nakkaş collection and much more. Daily 10am-7:30pm. and Z Zegna. Particularly the environmentally Barbara Bui In İstanbul's old Sultanahmet district, there's a truly www.gucci.com. Maçka Cad. Maçka Palas 33/C, friendly Oasi Zegna Cashmere jumpers in basic Reflecting the energy and strength of the urban remarkable store: Nakkaş. Built over a beautifully Teşvikiye. T: 0212 225 2080. A6. colours appeal to both sight and touch. woman, Barbara Bui has represented sophisticated restored 6-century Byzantine cistern, Nakkaş www.zegna.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. H&M Parisian style for 27 years. This season’s collection offers fine wearings, ceramics and jewellery in the Abdi İpekçi Cad. 46/A, Nişantaşı. Operating in cities around the world since 1947, embodies a powerful rock spirit, and sculptural tradition of quality crafts manship. A visit to this T: 0212 241 6500. A6. H&M offers fashionable, quality products for men, designs. Mon-Thu 10am-8pm. Fri & Sat 10am- column-filled cistern is the first step to an exciting women and children at attractive prices, and also shopping adventure. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. Hugo Boss 8.30pm. Sun noon-8pm. St. Regis İstanbul, stocks attractive local textiles. Daily 10am-10pm. www.nakkasrug.com. Nakilbent Sok. 13, Bringing together modern accessories and casual Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 35-1, Nişantaşı. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. 73, T: 0212 230 3752. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 516 5222. F4 / F5. and sporty lines, Hugo Boss offers endless choices A6. inc ready-wear, watches, accessories, lingerie, Sarıyer. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Brandroom bodycare products and more, under lines including Massimo Dutti Offers apparel for all occasions by select brands Clothing – Children its Boss Black, Boss Orange, Boss Green and Boss The perennial choice of people unwilling to inc Balmain, Alexander Wang, Versace, Diane Von Selection. Daily 10am-10pm. Miki House compromise on their appearance in a busy Furstenberg, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Salvatore Ferragamo, www.hugoboss.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. Japan’s most famous and prestigious children’s and fast-paced business life. Daily 10am-10pm. Tom Ford, MCQ, Catherine Malandrino, Ashish, İstinyePark Shopping Centre 339/468, Sarıyer. brand, Miki House is a favourite for boys and girls Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre Emilio Pucci, Thomas Wylde, Paul & Joe, See T: 0212 345 6001. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). aged up to ten years old. There’s a vast choice of 211/310, Etiler.T: 0212 282 0939. by Chloe, Vivienne Westwood Anglomania items from clothing, bags and packs, a wide range La Misura Shopping Centre Map (p.38). and Helmut Lang, as well as broad selection of of shoes, toys, hats and other accessories. A leader in custom tailoring, La Misura designs a Mavi cosmetics. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 12pm-8pm. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.mikihouseturkey.com. wide range of made-to-measure suits, tuxedos, Appealing to a vast range of tastes in jeans and www.demsagroup.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Maçka Cad. Narmanlı Apt. 24/B, Nişantaşı. coats, shoes, accessories and more. casual clothing, this world-renowned Turkish brand Polat Palas 63, Maçka. T: 0212 241 6049. A6. T: 0212 236 3649. A6. www.lamisura.com.tr. Levent Cad. 54, 1. Levent. also offers exclusive concept products for special BCBG Max Azria T: 0212 283 0022. Off map. occasions. Daily 10am-10pm. The choice of many Hollywood celebrities like www.mavi.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Clothing – Men Paris Hilton, Carmen Electra, Eva Mendes and Shopping Centre 235/238, Etiler. Corentte Sharon Stone, Max Azria caters to women who Clothing – T: 0212 282 0423-24. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Known for its made-to-measure shirts and suits, prefer a modern style. Extensive product line plus silk and cashmere neckties, the company Men & Women Naracamicie offers casual wear to evening dresses, shoes and uses fabrics from famous brands such as Charles Armani Italian luxury shirt designer and manufacturer handbags. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Clayton, Loro Piana, Valentino, Dormeuil, Vitale Armani’s İstanbul branch offers the trendsetting Naracamicie presents four collections under the www.bcbgmaxazriagroup.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Barberis Cononico, Ermenegildo Zegna, and brands Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Armani Flash and Base labels. In addition to bold, unusual Bostan Sok. 4, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 2242. A6.

40 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 41 SHOPPING SHOPPING

Bottega Veneta Prada Comfortable, quality footwear and handbag Considering fashion, luxury and style a mission that designs offering elegance and luxury. goes beyond the mere production of clothes, bags, Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.bottegaveneta.com. Turkish Designer Stores and shoes, this famous Italian brand leads the world in fashion and style. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre A46—Stylish brand and destinations for women T: 0212 296 0012. GAMZE SARAÇOĞLU—A member 463, Sarıyer.T: 0212 335 6790. who want to remain elegant both day and night. of the Fashion Designers Association, Saraçoğlu has www.prada.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 34, Nişantaşı. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). www.a46.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Kaşıkçıoğlu Apt. worked for brands like Zara, Marks & Spencer and T: 0212 368 8450. A6. 42, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 233 9031. ARZU KAPROL— Apple. Inspired by life and humanity, her designs are Chanel Saint Laurent Arzu Kaprol couture reflects femininity, comfort and all expressions of her joy and positive outlook. Known For His Designs Aimed At Daring, Feminine World-renowned French brand Chanel offers private use. www.arzukaprol.com. Serdar-ı Ekrem www.gamzesaracoglu.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Women, The French Designer’s Shops Offer A a wide range of products from ready-wear to Cad. Kamondo Apt. 22, Galata, Beyoğlu. Isparta Palas 19/3, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 6973. İPEK accessories, beauty products and watches. Chanel T: 0212 252 75 71. ATIL KUTOĞLU—With an emphasis KRAMER—İpek Kramer is an important brand in Range Of Bold Pieces. Daily 10am-10pm. counts Nicole Kidman, Victoria Beckham, Lily Allen, on materials like silk, cotton, wool, cashmere and haute couture nightwear in Turkey. www.ipekkiramer. www.ysl.com. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Kapalıçarşı, Kürkçüler No:22/46 Beyazıt Catherine Denevue and Audrey Tautou among its leather in his collections, Atıl Kutuoğlu has a long com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 363, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3390. Off map. Tel: +90 212 527 5553 celebrity clients. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Abdi İpekçi list of international customers including Jessica Etiler. T: 0212 282 0143. GÖNÜL PAKSOY—Creativity Nişantaşı, Teşvikiye Cad. Atiye Sok. Salvatore Ferragamo Cad. Nazen Apt. Maçka. T: 0212 368 6300. Alba, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Naomi Campbell and that bears the marks of Turkish culture and history. No:1/A Nişantaşı A6. Creativity and passion have been passed down Elizabeth Jagger. Known for his sleek eveningwear. From clothes to accessories, shawls, pillows and Tel: +90 212 258 5911 - 12 Dior www.atilkutoglu.com. Teşvikiye, Bostan Sok. 9/2, slippers, all of her designs are unique, special and through generations in the Ferragamo family, and Çemberlitaş, Mollafenari Mah. Highly distinguished world brand with John Nişantaşı. T: 0212 260 6067. reflective of her inner world. Teşvikiye, Atiye Sok. 1, with close attention to quality and detail, Salvatore Tavukpazarı Sok. No:27 Çemberlitaş Tel: +90 212 514 4014 - 34 Galliano’s haute couture, men’s-women’s BAHAR KORÇAN—World-renowned designer Bahar Teşvikiye. T: 0212 236 0209. ÖZGÜR MASUR—Always Ferragamo has become known as the shoemaker [email protected] prêt-à-porter, home decoration, skin product and Koçan uses handwoven silk, Japanese wool textiles, striving for innovation and uniqueness in his collec- for the stars. In addition to purses and shoes, the jewellery designs, Dior’s perfumes are also the organic cotton and bamboo fiber plaits. tions, Özgür Masur is especially noted for his low brand’s other lines of clothing have also had great choice of top world personalities. Daily 10am- www.baharkorcan.org. Şahkulu Mah. Serdar-ı Ekrem necklines, miniskirts and shorts, and finely-crafted, success. Daily 10am-8pm. ultimate luxury designer destination. Spread over www.cashmerehouse.com.tr. Keseciler Cad. 10pm. www.dior.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. Sok. Seraskerci Çıkmazı, Ferah Apt. 5, Galata, bold, brilliant and sexy designs. www.ozgurmasur. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Polat Palas, 63, Nişantaşı. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 6855. CENGİZ ABAZOĞLU— com. Ihlamur Yolu Cad., Can Apt. 11/5, Nişantaşı. 3 floors, it offers over 300 of world’s top designer 49-51, Grand Bazaar, Beyazıt, Fatih. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 478, Sarıyer. T: 0212 241 6049. A6. E4. Starting as a designer of leather and ready-to-wear T: 0212 233 0678. ÖZLEM SÜER—With avant garde, labels in ladies’, men’s and children’s wear, T: 0212 345 5930. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Fırça Ceramics brands, this designer then opened his own workshop neo-romantic designs, Özlem Süer offers alternatives Stella McCartney cosmetics, fashion, and home accessories, also The daughter of former Beatles member Paul This is Turkey’s first handicraft centre to produce Escada where he features his haute couture collections. His for day or night. Party dresses, bridal gowns, concert including premium brands. Daily 10am-10pm. first boutique in Nişantaşı. www.cengizabazoglu.net. designs and boutique designs in over 60 shops McCartney, the British designer is known for hand-made ceramics with lead-free glaze and Prestigious international fashion house offering www.harveynichols.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Abdi İpekçi Cad. 24/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 234 5242. abroad. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. her creations for famous personalities including a high percentages of quartz, equal to original luxury apparel, accessories and fragrance Kanyon Shopping Centre, Levent. ÇİĞDEM AKIN—Original and distinct designs pre- www.ozlemsuer.com. Özlem Süer House: Büyükçiftlik Madonna, Jude Law and Gwynneth Paltrow. İznik quality. You can also enjoy a fascinating collections for daytime, weekends and evenings. T: 0212 319 1155. pared for special days carrying all the features made Sok. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 240 5738. Özlem Süer Daily 10am-10pm. www.stellamccartney.com. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). demonstration of traditional pottery making Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.escada.com. Abdi İpekçi for individuals who follow the trend. Abdi İpekçi Bağdat Cad. Plaj Yolu Sok. 12, Suadiye. Suadiye: Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. Vakko with a kick wheel. Sultanahmet, Daily 9am-7pm. Cad. 25/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 247 8483. A6. Cad. Erkan Apt. 28/4, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 248 1177. T: 0216 445 9043. DERVİŞ-RAŞİT BAĞZIBAĞLI— T: 0212 306 3396. Off map. This leading Turkish brand presents its own Cankurtaran, Alemdar Cad. 2/A, Sultanahmet. DENİZ KAPROL—One of Turkey’s foremost brands In addition to his achievements as a haute couture Fendi interpretation of today’s fashions in men’s and T: 0212 511 9300. Kariye, Daily (closed Wed) in jewellery and accessory design, Kaprol embel- designer, Raşit Bağzıbağlı is also on his way to V2K Designers 9am-6pm. Derviş Ali Mah. Kariye Camii Sok. 4 The Italian brand has launched a new boutique women’s wear while remaining true to its superior lishes her elegant designs with meticulously chosen transforming his ready-wear brand B. Rushh into a Prestigious Turkish couture offering elegance and which will house handbags, shoes, small leather Edirnekapı. T: 0212 534 4916. C1/2. precious stones, and creates personal designs for her global brand. www.rasitbagzibagli.com. Levent Cad. a modern style. Carries many famous hip brands fabric and manifacturing quality. goods, watches, jewellery. Daily 10am-10pm. customers. The necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings 34, 1.Levent. T: 0212 283 8772. SİMAY BÜLBÜL—The under its collection. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm. Daily 10am-10pm. www.vakko.com.tr. Gali Collection, The Zorlu Center, Koru Sok. 2, 180, Beşiktaş. and brooches in her exclusive collections are sure to brand’s personality is infused with an urban feel of www.v2kdesigners.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 31/1, İstinyePark, İstinye Bayırı Cad. 501/504 İstinye. This home and marine collection features T: 0212 999 9810. Off map. impress. www.dkaprol.com. the streets, reflected by those who wear them. Her T: 0212 345 5832. Kanyon Shopping Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 9498. A6. Off map. nature-inspired forms alongside contemporary Bağdat Cad. Noter Sok. Lütfiye Apt. 21/3, earthy designs feature unusual cuts, tooled leather Centre, Büyükdere Cad. 138/140, Levent. hand-crafted silver jewellery. View the fine silver Louis Vuitton Şaşkınbakkal. T: 0216 386 8600. DİLEK HANİF—The and ragged details. www.sim-ay.com. Bereketzade Valentino T: 0212 353 1080. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). collection, and Gali-designed slippers to ward off Ready-to-wear dresses as well as bags and first Turkish designer to present her own couture col- Mah. Kuledibi, Kuleçıkmazı 17, Galata. The Italian fashion designer’s elegant shops offer Zorlu Center, Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, the evil eye. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm. accessories from the famous monogrammed lection at Paris Haute Couture fashion week. T: 0212 292 7899. SONGÜL CABACI—Appealing to haute couture designs dominated by red and AV Z011 AV 1002, Zincirlikuyu. www.thegalicollection.com. Kültür Mah. leather by Marc Jacobs. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.dilekhanif.com. Maçka Cad. Ralli Apt. 37/2, the woman in search of an elegant, avant-garde look, black, collectors’ pieces, women’s accessories and Küçük Çamlık Sitesi, Esra Sok. E Blok 2H D2, Etiler. www.louisvuitton.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 219 3723-24. ELİF CIGIZOĞLU— Cabacı creates designs that epitomise the blending T: 0212 708 3333. Off map. glasses. Daily 10am-10pm. www.valentino.com. T: 0212 234 0138. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 246 6975. Introduces volume even to the most classic garments of plastic arts and fashion. www.songulcabaci.com. A6. A6. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. with the added origamic details. www.elifcigizoglu. Hacı Mimi Mah.Serdar-ı Ekrem Sok. Hoca Ali Yokuşu, Godiva Max&Co. T: 0212 306 3392. Off map. Gift & Collectables com. Teşvikiye Cad. Alhamra Apt. 28/3, Nişantaşı. 25/1, Galata. T: 0212 245 9136. For a wonderful romantic moment or a surprise Collection representing a modern, feminine, Anatoli treat, this world-famous Belgian chocolatier is the seductive and distinctive style. Daily 10am-10pm. Department Stores The Anatoli brand brings centuries-old anatolian sweetest choice. Creating the finest chocolates www.maxandco.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark ÖZLEM SÜER cultural motifs and symbols to life. Its modern since 1926, Godiva’s tradition and legendary Shopping Centre 492, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5731. Beymen designs bring together designers and skilled flavour await you. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 12am- Beymen Men is renowned for its eye for fine detail, Shopping Centre Map (p.38). artisans to create a unique line of decorative 6pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Ünsal Apt. 6-4, B, Nişantaşı. special fabrics and quality. Beymen Women offers objects and giftware, with the Kubbe-i Âliye T: 0212 246 4186. Max Mara timeless garments with romantic, nostalgic and A6. Max Mara covers all the bases for lovers of classic coffee set and their Seljuk carafe among their feminine details that will never go out of fashion. Hiref top selling designs. www.anatoli.com.tr. styles, providing a casual look for women of all Leading international brands also available. Reflecting Anatolian art and culture in the world of İstinyePark Shopping Centre, Daily 10am-10pm, ages. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.maxmara.com. www.beymen.com.tr. Nişantaşı, Mon-Sat 10am- contemporary Turkish design, Hiref has now added İstinye Bayırı Cad. 73, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6858. Teşvikiye Cad. 7, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 259 6550. A6. 8pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23/1, Nişantaşı. its new Bakır, Beykoz and Abdan collections to its T: 0212 3734800. Zorlu Center, Daily 10am- Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Miu Miu A6. offerings. Daily 10am-10pm. 10pm. Zorlu Center, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3300. Designed as an independent brand by Prada, Miu Assouline www.hiref.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Miu’s trendy footwear and dresses appeal to the Off map. With branches in Paris, New York, Las Vegas, Los Kanyon Shopping Centre 50-51, Levent. T: 0212 353 5450. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). child in you. Daily 10am-10pm. ww.miumiu.com. Boyner Angeles and now İstanbul, Assouline stores offer İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 58, Its men’s, women’s, children’s wear, active a selection of limited-edition book bags, book Lokum İstanbul Sarıyer. T: 0212 329 8158. sportswear, footwear & accessories, cosmetics and stands, stationery, bookends and fine antiques. Creating unique and original designs on İstanbul’s Shopping Centre Map (p.38). housewares departments offer a vast selection of Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 12am-6pm. Cevdet Paşa European side since 2005, Lokum İstanbul features Cad. 25/A, Bebek. T: 0212 287 5534. Perspective local and international brands. Daily 10am-10pm. Off map. Turkish delight, cologne, candles, confections, İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. cards and very special fabrics. Daily 9am-8pm. Modern collections featuring elegant but Cashmere House Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5070. www.lokumistanbul.com. Kuruçeşme Cad. 15, comfortable work, casual and evening wear design Cashmere House is the place to look for exquisite Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Bağdat Cad. 360, Kuruçeşme, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 287 1528. Off map. for women with over 100 stores in 41 countries. latest styles of cashmere shawls from Nepal and Suadiye. T: 0216 385 1409. Off map. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 12pm-7pm. Kashmir, as well as genuine silk shawls produced Lotus İznik Ceramic www.perspective.com.tr. Rumeli Cad. 2/1, A, Harvey NicholS in the Turkish cities of Bursa and Denizli in a wide Lotus Iznik Ceramics offers the best quality, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 3355. A6. Kanyon Shopping Centre is the home of this variety of colours and styles. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. handmade and handpainted, world famous Turkish

42 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 43 Ceramics and Tiles. They carefully select the finest to find the perfect gift or to treat yourself. examples of traditional and modern İznik and Mon-Sat 8am-7:30pm. www.alhammam.com.cn. Kütahya ceramic designs. Each art piece is custom Çarşıkapı, Nuruosmaniye Cad. 10, Sofçuhan Girişi, ordered to outstanding local artists, who sign every Nuruosmaniye. T: 0212 512 2002. E4. one of their achievements. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. Nakilbent Sok. 13, Sultanahmet. Armaggan Venue offering its exclusive products that T: 0212 516 5222. F4. reinterpret the inspiration of Anatolia through Mevlana Ceramic modern designs created in its own workshops. The A single store seeling their own line of quartz limited editions include jewellery and home textiles and ceramic plates, vases and tiles, all made collections as well as custom clothing produced locally. Every item includes its own certificate of using natural dyes—all exhibited in its seven-storey authenticity. Daily 7:30am-9:30pm. building. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Sultanahmet Mah. Torun Sok.1, Sultanahmet. www.armaggan.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Bostan Sok. T: 0212 638 6601. F4. 8, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 6292. A6. This exclusive store's new Nuruosmaniye outlet Moser presents a wide variety of specially designed Find some of Europe’s best crystal, porcelain objects, such as jewellery, naturally-dyed textiles, and silver here, boasting some of the world’s top carpets, leather goods, textiles and fine dining, all celebrity names as its fans. The collections include under one roof. Not only that, but it is also home Kosta Boda, Meissen, Orrefors, Georg Jensen, to Nar Gourmet, Nar Restaurant, Nar Café, the Haviland, Daum and Lalique. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Culinary Arts Center (YESAM), the Armaggan Art www.moserturkey.com. Ebulula Cad. 47, 1.Levent. Gallery and Bora Travel. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. T: 0212 280 30 24. Off map. www.armaggan.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 65, Paşabahçe Boutique Beyazıt. T: 0212 522 4433. E4. The right address for delightful premium Beymen Home glassware, with special collections such as Leading world brands in everything from Ottoman, Enamel Glass, Calligraphy on Glass, decoration to home textiles, lighting to table Mosaic, Ashura, Boutique Glass and others, design as well as one-of-a-kind products by as well as crystal, porcelain/ceramics, and world-renowned designers. Objects created of fine accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. materials such as crystal, brass and bronze. Daily www.pasabahcemagazalari.com. Büyükdere Cad. 10am-10pm. www.beymen.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre G 141, Levent. Akmerkez Shopping Centre, Etiler. T: 0212 353 0730. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). T: 0212 316 6900. Shopping Centre Map (p.38).

Tash Corner Chakra A warm, welcoming shop offering handmade Towels and bathrobes from bamboo fibre that designs, from silver and semiprecious stones, to softens when washed, in a variety of colours and imported earrings, necklaces and bracelets in patterns. Cosmetics specially produced for Chakra many colours and styles. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. in Paris under the brand Chakra SPA Collection Kapalıçarşı, Koltuk Kazancılar Sok. 27, Eminönü. also available. Drop by for an alternative look at T: 0212 528 69 72. E4. houseware. Daily 10am-10pm. www.chakra.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre B2, Hammams Levent. T: 0212 353 0757. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı (Bath of Roxelana) Crate & Barrell Commissioned in 1556 to Mimar Sinan by Sultan With shops in Canada, Mexico, Dubai and Suleyman I, this hamam was named after his wife Singapore, this American furniture, decor and Hürrem Sultan, popularly known as Roxelana. home accessories chain now has an İstanbul The Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamam has recently branch, offering stylish, comfortable products. been restored and reopened as one of the most Daily 10am-10pm. www.crateandbarrell.com.tr. important treasures in the Ottoman-Turkish bath Zorlu Center, Levazım Mah. Koru Sok. 242, tradition. It was the first bath in which the men’s Zincirlikuyu. T: 0212 353 6575. and women’s sections were built to the same Akasya Acıbadem, Acıbadem Mah. Çeçen Sok. K:1, plan. Daily 7am-12am. Cankurtaran Mah. Ayasofya 371, Üsküdar. T: 0216 510 5757. Meydanı 2, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 517 3535. F4. Dantell A wonderful new place for fine bed linens, tablecloths, towels, pillows, napkins and bathrobes, Homewares including the Dreamy Whites, Everyday Glamour, Abdulla Spring Garden, Ecclechic and signed Tuvana Comprised of two stores offering natural products Büyükçınar’s Tuvanam For Dantell collections. in the Grand Bazaar. Boasting mystical interiors Special exclusive design accessories also available. influenced by the overall atmosphere of the Bazaar, Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.dantell.com. the stores offer a vast range of authentic products Teşvikiye Mah. Şakayık Sok. 56/17 Nişantaşı. from fabrics to oil soaps, leather work to bedding. T: 0212 224 0867. A6. Mon-Sat 9:30pm-7pm. Alibaba Türbe Sok. 25, Haremlique Silver & Genuine Rough Stone Jewellery Nuruosmaniye. T: 0212 526 3070. F4. Company offering own production of luxury Alhammam linens and towels as well as fine silks, cashmeres, Koltuk Kazazlar Sok. No:27 Kapalıçarşı (Grandbazaar), İstanbul A world of accoutrements of historical and upholstery and home accessories for the finest Tel: +90212 528 69 72 GSM: +90532 412 32 21 modern hammam culture including soaps, homes, yachts and boutique hotels. Mon-Sat 10am- copper products, scrubs and luffas, peshtemals, 7pm. www.haremlique.com. Zorlu Center Koru Sok. e.mail: [email protected] towels and hammam bowls. An excellent place 2/194, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 3843. Off map.

44 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 45 SHOPPING

Heritia diamond jewellery and other luxury items are Offering a wealth of fine handicrafts, Heritia available from this leading French brand. Mon-Sat is filled with treasures like tables and jewel 10:30am-7pm. www.cartierboutique.com. Abdi boxes inlaid with mother-of-pearl, ornate worry İpekçi Cad. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 1317. A6. beads, tablecloths and wall-hangings hand- embroidered in silver and gold thread. Look out Chopard also for traditional Turkish lokum, hard candies World-renowned brand in jewellery and watches, and flavoured pastes. www.heritia.com.tr. Chopard has established itself as a landmark with Meşrutiyet Cad. Baran Apt. 79, D:1-2, its custom design products. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10:30am-4:30pm. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 13/A, Asmalımescit, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 5800. C4. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 1775. A6. H&M Home Using the slogan ‘Style for your Home’, this home Damas decoration store sells high quality glass and wood Since its founding, this brand has followed the products with contrasting styles. Daily 10am-10pm. trends and innovations in the world of jewellery and www.hm.com.tr. Mall of İstanbul. Süleyman Demirel timepieces, and successfully represented world- Bulvarı, Ziya Gökalp Mah. Başakşehir. renowned brands. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. Büyükdere Cad. Kanyon Shopping Centre T: 0212 801 0403. Off map. 185/135/136, Levent. T: (0212) 353 0975. İznik Works Shopping Centre Map (p.38). A homely store in the heart of the Grand Bazaar, İznik Works offers the centuries-old glory of Turkish Dora tile and pottery making. The finest examples of Awarded 'most innovative wedding ring İznik tiles in blue, green and white embellish the designer', Dora is known in over 40 countries for store. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.iznikworks.com. its customised wedding and engagement rings. Grand Bazaar, Takkeciler Sok. 82-84, Eminönü. Sought-after pieces handpicked by Colin Cowie, T: 0212 522 4242. F5. wedding&event planner to Hollywood celebrities including Oprah Winfrey, Jennifer Lopez, Nicole Mudo Concept Kidman. Mon-Sat 10.30am-8pm. Çırağan Cad. 27/1. Offers a broad product range in decoration, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 7535. B8. furniture, personal accessories, home textiles and lighting for living spaces, kitchens and bathrooms. Gasia Daily 10am-10pm. www.mudoconcept.com.tr. Gasia is a manufacturer and wholesaler of design Teşvikiye, Akkavak-Şakayık Sok. 47/2, jewellery, specializing in 24 karat hand hammered Tunaman Çarşısı. products. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. T: 0212 444 6836. A6. www.gasiajewelry.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 21/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 2715. A6. Yazzma This shop selling shawls, scarves, kaftans, slippers Gilan and pillows in a riot of colours has something to The number one name in haute couture jewellery in suite any taste. The authentic products fit not only Istanbul, Gilan brings the brilliance of the Ottoman, classic decor, but modern homes as well. Roman and Byzantine eras back to life. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. www.yazzma.com. Daily 10am-10pm. www.gilan.com. Four Seasons Kapalıçarşı, Takkeciler Sok. 58-60, Eminönü. Hotel İstanbul at the Bosphorus, Çırağan Cad. 28, T: 0212 524 6841. E4. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 2163. Off map. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. 459, Sarıyer. Jewellery T: 0212 345 5008.Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Sevan Bıçakçı Arte Award-winning designer offering much sought- For those in search of fine watches, jewellery and after pieces, particularly the unique and highly pens, this shop offers the ultimate in luxury design. valuable ring designs. Flawless handmade The high-prestige items include watches by Franck diamond jewellery and special collections echoing Muller, Audemars Piguet and Ulysse Nardin; pens Turkish handiwork have captured the attention of by Tibaldi and Viskonti and table clocks by Erwin collectors worldwide. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Sattler. Daily 10am-10pm. www.artegioia.com www.sevanbicakci.com. Barbaros Bulvarı, Zorlu İstinye Park, İstinye Bayırı Cad. R410, Sarıyer. Center Beşiktaş. T: 0212 353 6633. Off map. T: 0212 345 6506. Akmerkez, Nispetiye Cad. 116, Etiler. T: 0212 282 1901. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Kafkas This store with its passion for high quality gems and Assos Diamond superior craftsmanship. It also offers the perfect This store is filled with elegant and out-of-the- mix of modern glamour with timeless elegance in ordinary designs, with distinct wedding, gold, its unique designs. www.kafkasjewellery.com. silver, precious stone and diamond collections Kapalıçarşı, Kalpakçılar Başı Cad. 4/6, The brand for stylish kids which offer something to suit every taste. Nuruosmaniye. T: 0212 522 0326. Mon-Sat 8.30am-6pm. www.assosdiamond.com. F4. Nişantaşı, Abdi İpekçi Cad. Isparta Palas, 19/1A, Molla Feneri Mah. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 60, Tesvikiye Mah. Maçka Cad. Narmanlı Apt. No:24/B Nisantası, lstanbul Tel: 0212 236 36 49 Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 3880. Eminönü. T: 0212 528 3500. A6. E4. İstinyePark, İstinyePark Shopping Centre. K:1, 35, www.mikihouse.co.jp Bvlgari İstinye. T: 0212 345 5204. [email protected] Leading name in Italian-style jewellery and Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Please instagram/mikihouseistanbul precious fashion pieces since 1884. Mon-Sat 10am- Tektaş Watches & Jewellery ask your 9pm. Bayıldım Cad. 2, Swissôtel the Bosphorus, Offering luxury watch and jewellery designs concierge Maçka. T: 0212 259 0227. B7. BEYMEN, Zorlu Center, Beşiktaş. by Patek Philippe, Audemars-Piguet, Breguet, for more Cartier Boutique T: 0212 306 3300. Chopard, de Grisogono, Breitling, Gucci, Caran details Watches, wedding and engagement rings, d’Ache and Swiss Kubik. Daily 10am-10pm.

46 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 SHOPPING SHOPPING

Deriden coffee. Daily 8am-7pm. www.mehmetefendi.com. NUDE Local distributor of world-famous brands inc Rüstem Paşa, Hasırcılar Cad. Tahmis Sok. 66, Paşabahçe Boutique, DKNY, Timberland, Sebago, Kowalski, Calvin Klein, Eminönü. T: 0212 511 4262-63. E4. Bikkembergs, Boticelli, Lion, Palladium, Logan, and Kanyon Shopping Centre G 141 Buffalo. Daily 10am-10pm. www.deriden.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Levent. Çırağan Cad. Vapur İskelesi Sok. 1, Ortaköy. Underwear & T: 0212 353 0730. T: 0212 261 7666. A9. Swimsuit Giusseppe Zanotti Design Victoria’s Secret Glamorous women’s footwear by this Italian The famous lingerie brand offers mostly designer is excellent for social functions with its accessories, but also sells perfumes, cosmetics dressy style that emphasizes femininity. Mon-Sat and laptop bags. Daily 10am-10pm. City’s Nişantaşı 10am-7pm. www.giuseppe-zanotti-design.com. Shopping Centre, Kat: T, Teşvikiye Cad. 162, Şişli. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 24/26, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 2990. A6. T: 0212 232 0745. A6. Zeki Triko Tory Burch The world-renowned swimwear brand Zeki Triko This U.S. designer, who made a name for himself once again captures the attention with its unique with his flats named after his mother Reva, offers a and artsy models. Daily 10am-10pm. luxurious collection of leather and patent leather www.zekitriko.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez bags, accessories, shoes, flats and boots in its Shopping Centre 366, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0591-92. single location. Daily 10am-10pm. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). www.tektassaatcilik.com.tr. Kanyon Shopping global brands including Armani and Dolce & www.toryburch.com. Zorlu Center, Centre, Büyükdere Cad. 1/9, 4. Levent. Leather & Fur Gabbana. One of the most widely known stores Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. Off map. T: 0212 353 0555. Desa in the Grand Bazaar, it is also a favourite of many Watches Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Established in 1972, this brand now operates with celebrities. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7:30pm. Turkish Delicacies IWC Schaffhausen 73 stores in Turkey and 2 abroad. In addition to www.kocderi.com. Grand Bazaar, Kürkçüler Çarşısı The famous luxury watch brand presents its Pilot’s Tiara leather products, it also produces silk, chiffon, 22/46, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 5553. E4. Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir watch celebrating the history of aviation. Other Tiara Jewellery offers a splendid collection cashmere and knitwear skirts, jackets, trousers, An international brand with an extensive exports notable models include Aquatimer Diver; the Kuzu Deri of jewellery inspired by the artistic history of coats and accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. network spanning the world from Japan to New Da Vinci; Ingenieur, celebrating technology and Keeping up with fashion with the finest leather and Anatolian civilizations and the creativity of www.desa.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 1, Nişantaşı. Zealand, the Middle East, Latvia, the United engineering; and the Portofino, created in honour fur goods since 1960, Kuzu Deri also has branches contemporary artists. Made of the highest T: 0212 232 1290. A6. Bağdat Cad. 443/A, Suadiye. Kingdom and the United States, it offers Turkish of 1930 Portuguese sailors. Mon-Sat10.30am- in France, Sweden, Norway and Russia. Check out quality gold, platinum and semi-precious stores, T: 0216 416 4368. Off map. İstinyePark Shopping delight or lokum,hard candies, pastes, halvahs 6.30pm. www.iwc.com/turkey. Mim Kemal Öke their special new designs in their Zeytinburnu and the jewellery collection features the utmost in Centre 398, Sarıyer. T: 0212 245 6739. and dragees. Daily 8am-8pm. İstiklal Cad. 83/A, Cad. Altın Sok 4/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 224 4604. A6. Nuruosmaniye stores. www.kuzu.com.tr. Bab-ı Ali craftsmanship and quailty. Daily 9am-6pm. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 2804. C5. www.tiarajewellery.com. Yavuz Sinan Mah. Cad. 7/A Cağaloğlu. T: 0212 513 5898. F5. Saat & Saat Bebek Badem Ezmesi Ragıp Gümüş Pala Cad. 69, Unkapanı. Derishow This store carries premium watches and ornaments Establishment providing fine leather products and Sweet shop famous for its almond and from a host of brands inc Adidas, Balmain, T: 0212 526 6363. F5. different designs for its customers since 1987. Perfumery pastes. Products are always fresh and made from Burberry, Citizen, Diesel, DKNY, Emporio Armani, top-quality ingredients. Daily 9:30am-8pm. Tiffany & Co. Daily 10am-10pm. www.derishow.com.tr. İstinye Jo Malone Escape, Esprit, GC, GF Ferre, Hamilton and much Cevdet Paşa Cad. 53/C, Bebek. Renowned for its rare and magnificent diamonds, Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 507, Try and choose the best perfumes from a broad more. Daily 10am-10pm. www.saatvesaat.com. T: 0212 263 5984. Tiffany & Co. has for decades been the world’s Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5908. range of products from Jo Malone, which adheres Off map. Büyükdere Cad. 22, Cevahir Shopping Centre 44/A, Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Şişli. T: 0212 380 0972. premier jeweller and America’s finest house of to the philosophy that perfume should match the Cemilzade 1883 Off map. design. Tiffany style is defined by groundbreaking person’s skin and character. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Koç Deri Many traditional Turkish delight varieties as well Panerai designers and glamorous collections. Mon-Sat Established in 1968, Koç Deri manufactures for www.jomalone.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 33, Nişantaşı. as its exclusive fruit Turkish delights, hard candies Opened in 1860 in the city of Florence as a watch- 10am-7pm. www.tiffany.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. T: 0212 231 4416. A6. and nut pastes, each as sweet as the next, but light making workshop and a shop, Panerai has its Atiye Sok. 9/B, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 219 8346. A6. as well. Mon-Sat 10am-8:30pm, Sun 11am-7pm. La Déesse roots deep beneath the sea. Providing sensitive Nispetiye Cad. 104/B Etiler. T: 0212 257 2865. Urart Turkey’s first ever perfume design boutique, La measuring instruments for the Italian Army, the Off map. This jeweller in bustling Nişantaşı stands out Déesse is perfect for anyone who wants to create company specialised in diving watches for special with its unique, modern designs that draw upon his or her own special fragrance. You can also Faruk Güllüoğlu operations of the Undersea Commandos. Mon-Sat 9am-6:30pm. www.panerai.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. and interpret the very special works of Anatolian find the world’s most exclusive brands, including Popular both in Turkey and around the world, Altın Sok. 2/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 5959. civilisations and cultures. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Keiko Mecheri, which was inspired by Turkish Güllüoğlü in Karaköy has served traditional Turkish A6. www.urart.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 18/1, Nişantaşı. delight. www.ladeesse.com.tr. Teşvikiye Cad. 31/2, and other sweets for two centuries with the same meticulous care at every stage in the process. Shopping T: 0212 246 7194. A6. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 230 0001. A6. Mon-Sat 7am-7pm. www.gulluoglu.com.tr. Wedding Clothes Ülseven Sephora Rıhtım Cad. Katlı Otopark Altı 3-4, Karaköy. Beymen Bridal More than 10,000 brand-name products in a Time! Ülseven Fine Jewellery has been creating unique T: 0212 293 0910. D5. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Beymen offers a host of bridal dresses to women masterpieces and exclusive jewellery collections variety of categories from makeup to skin-care Istanbul will be held on (13-18 Oct) preparing for that special day, and is Turkey’s Koska Helvacısı for over 60 years. A well-known company in the plus exclusive secret formula products unique to exclusive source for top designers including Lanvin, Leading manufacturer and exporter of Turkish at Antrepo 3. The event will once again Grand Bazaar, Ülseven serves its upscale clients in Sephora. Daily 10am-10pm. www.sephora.com. Christos, Amsale, Kenneth Pool, Romona, Keveza, , a -based cofection popular over a continue to shine the spotlight on its Nişantaşı, and Bakırköy stores. Mon-Sat 10am- İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, Valentino and Albertta Ferretti. Daily 10am- vast region, as well as other traditional flavours inc 9pm. www.ulseven.com.tr. Teşvikiye Cad. 22/A, L326-327, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6035. emerging Turkish designers with an 8pm. www.beymen.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23/1, preserves, sesame paste and molasses, Turkish Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 0656. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). expanded schedule of events around Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 4800. A6. A6. delight and light products for diabetics. Available Istanbul. The Spring/Summer 2015 Zela in all major food retailers. www.koska.com. Vakko Wedding Shoes & Bags Collections showing and will combine Vakko style meets designer wedding gowns by Zela’s unites the elegance of the world of jewellery, Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi industry focused fashion shows, world-renowned fashion brands including Oscar the mystery of the East, and the modern lines of Christian Louboutin The origins of coffee culture throughout the De La Renta, Vera Wang, Emanuel Ungaro, Elie by the West. Embodying beauty and nobility in its This season, timeless French designer Louboutin world today can be traced back to Turkish coffee. exclusive parties, cocktail receptions Elia Saab, Marchesa, Vera Wang, Monique Lhuillier, designs for 20 years, the unparalleled collections is renowned for his high-heeled, red-soled shoes. For centuries, coffee was originally purchased as and a newly introduced consumer day Reem Acra and Valentino, to create an epic bring out the best of precious and semiprecious The Summerissima is one of the many striking green beans to be taken home, roasted in pans, to (18 Oct) highlight current season atmosphere. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. stones. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.zelajewels.com. La Deesse shoes from the collection. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, then ground in hand cranked mills or mortar and trends during the event. www.vakko.com.tr. Süleyman Seba Cad. 27, Abdi İpekçi Cad. 9/A, Nişantaşı. Teşvikiye Cad. 31/2, Nişantaşı. Sun 12am-8pm. www.christianlouboutin.com. Abdi pestles. This long, tedious and exhausting process Akaretler. T: 0212 258 6608. B7. T: 0212 296 0055. A6. T: 0212 230 0001. İpekçi Cad. 22/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 7870. A6. had to be undertaken every time to savour a cup of

48 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 49 DINING best of İstanbul dining

Park Fora Since 1996, Park Fora has been renowned as one of İstanbul’s most elegant restaurants, which you instantly feel on entering its waterfront terrace. In keeping with the exclusive ambience, it’s matched by a stellar Bosphorus view, amazing park setting and outstanding service. There’s a huge variety of beautifully presented seafood, such as stuffed anchovies and marinated sea bass, plus a brilliant selection of wines from around the world to raise the bar for restaurants throughout the city. Muallim Naci Cad. Cemil Topuzlu Parkı İçi 54/A, Ortaköy. T: 0212 265 5063. www.parkfora.com

Tapasuma Located in the Sumahan Hotel in Çengelköy on İstanbul’s Asian side, Tapasuma possesses a calming atmosphere, mainly thanks to its location overlooking the Bosphorus, plus its striking design with its attractive stone walls. In addition to seasonal fish, Tapasuma’s menu offers unusual Turkish and Mediterranean dishes and bite-size Turkish mezes. Some of its outstanding items include shank of Thracian lamb , and cooked on a griddle. Boat service from Kuruçeşme is available. Kuleli Cad. 43, Çengelköy. T: 0216 401 1333. www.tapasuma.com

Ritim Galata New spot for a familiar Most popular Just a few steps from the entrance to Galata Tower, this café’s high ceilings and smart décor give it a distinct historical atmosphere, highlighted by the black- dishes: and-white photographs decorating the walls. With its lively mood and delicious name Some of the outstanding choice of snack foods, it’s the ideal spot for a break on your tour of Galata. dishes at Peymane include Galata Kulesi Sok. 3/D, Galata, Beyoğlu. mezes of zahter, courgettes Since 2004, Peymane has offered a new take on the traditional T: 0212 292 4929. with carrots and hot appetizers ocakbaşı experience with a menu that spans the flavours of Anatolia, of Elazığ-style stuffed köfte; plus striking architecture and decor. kebabs specialities çöp şiş and terbiyeli şiş, and desserts eymane’s new Şişhane branch including pistachio baklava welcomes diners to enjoy the same and cheese-filled künefe. Pexperience as its outlet on Tomtom Sokak. Maintaining the same concept and service, this new venue serves fine mezes NaN Şişhane and regional specialities including lamb Just five minutes from the Galata Tower and bustling İstiklal Caddesi, the after- from Thrace, salted from Antakya, work parties at NaN Şişhane’s Aperitivo Italiano are the perfect way to unwind; and baklava flown in fresh daily from the wood-dominated, minimalist décor with brick walls and hanging lamps add Gaziantep. warmth to the mood. Offering Turkish and world cuisine, it’s a wonderful new Set aside an evening to experience hangout for the Şişhane crowd. Peymane’s unparalleled cuisine to a Evliya Çelebi Mah. Meşrutiyet Cad. 102 A, Şişhane, Beyoğlu. backdrop of live jazz. T: 0212 243 0174. Evliya Çelebi Mah. Meşrutiyet Cad. 94/A , Beyoğlu. 0212 251 5314. www.peymane.com.

50 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 ADVERTISEMENT DINING DINING

pleasant and entertaining dining ambiance. Mangerie HHH Daily B, L & D. www.cafewien.com. HHH Daily L & D. www.wagamama.com.tr. Mangerie has been a top eating spot for Istanbul Maçka Cad. Reasürans Çarşısı 62, Teşvikiye. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre, and Bebek socialites. With its extensive menu and T: 0212 233 7860. A6. Levent. T: 0212 353 0474. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). wine list to match, plus a commanding view of Bebek Bay, it’s become an Istanbul classic. Try the Fes Café Zuma lamb and hand-cut noodle salad, the skewered Nestled in the Grand Bazaar, Fes Café with its Japanese dining traditions, alive and well in the shrimp and Mangerie burger. HH Daily B, L & D. Ottoman -and- contemporary style interior, is an heart of İstanbul. Exciting interior is an extra www.mangeriebebek.com. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 69/3, ideal spot for a coffee break without having to leave the authentic atmosphere of the bazaar. attraction to this restaurant overlooking the Küçükbebek. T: 0212 263 5199. Off map. HH Bosphorus. Japanese and world cuisines available Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.fescafe.com. Halıcılar Nişantaşı Brasserie Cad. 62, Kapalıçarşı. T: 0212 528 1613. at sushi and grill bars. Booking required. E4. With décor by Zeynep Fadıllıoğlu, Nişantaşı HHHH Daily L & D. www.zumarestaurant.com. Brasserie is one of İstanbul’s most popular spots. Limonata Apartment Salhane Sok. 7, Ortaköy. T: 0212 236 2296. A9. The menu offers classic dishes adapted for modern Limonata is one of İstanbul’s most fashionable tastes, including French soup, duck’s liver, spots. Enjoy a delicious lunch or dinner, or choose brıtısh steak Tartare, and ‘Café de Paris’ filet mignon. from an impressive selection of cocktails at the HHH Daily B, L & D. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Bostan Sok. unique Limonata bar. HHH Daily L & D. Bostan Sok. 13, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 2300. Tom’s Kitchen 23/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 343 0443. A6. A6. Tom’s kitchen serves comfort food favourites in a Mavra relaxed and environment, from breakfast to dinner. CAFE One of the most populated cafes of the Menu highlights include fish pie, steak tartare, neighbourhood frequented by photographers, shepherd’s pie. HHH Daily B & L & D. Zorlu Center, A La Carte Restaurant actors and designers. Mavra is a cozy little café Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş.T: 0212 353 6677. Off map. Meals surrounded by magnificent Bosphorus offering classic but very tasty café fare, including a scenery and splendid historical buildings. variety of breakfast platters, sandwiches, indulge- HHHH Daily B, L & D. www.legacyottomanhotel. worthy appetizers, salads, pastas, and meat-heavy bıstro com. Legacy Ottoman Hotel, Hobyar Mah. mains. Daily B & L & D & N. Daily 9:30am-2am. Hamidiye Cad. 16, Eminönü. HH Serdar-ı Ekrem Sok. 31/A, Galata. Chocolate T: 0212 527 6767. T: 0212 252 7488. Offering an exquisite dining experience, this spot E4. D5. serves international cuisine, but predominantly Café Wien NaN Şişhane Italian dishes adjusted for Turkish tastes. All European-style coffee and cakes made in house, NaN Şişhane’s Aperitivo Italiano are the perfect ingredients are natural, organic and fresh, offering a Viennese style café atmosphere. 26 way to unwind; the wood-dominated, minimalist prepared with special herbs. HHH Daily B, L & D. pastries and 18 coffees and to choose from, décor with brick walls and hanging lamps add www.chocolatecafe.com. Eytam Cad. 33, Maçka. including the famous Viennese blend. The warmth to the mood. Offering Turkish and world T: 0212 343 2461. A6. “Eiskaffee” with ice cream is a summer favorite. cuisine, it’s a wonderful new hangout.

spacious interior decorated in classical Chinese wood décor and a Zen garden, it offers a wide AEGEAN style. Specialties include crispy duck and stir-fried variety of Japanese dishes plus a sushi menu. HHH dishes. HHHH Daily L & D. www.hilton.com.tr. Daily L&D. Mahzeytinoğlu Cad. Yaren Sok. 6/ 14-15, Eleos Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet Cad. Harbiye. Akatlar, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 352 0222. Spacious décor and unique flavours from both Off map. T: 0212 231 6200. B6. shores of the Aegean Sea. In addition to classic P.F. Changs flavours of İstanbul’s taverns, Eleos’ menu includes Hori This Chinese bistro is famed for its delicious food, Greek and Armenian specialties as well as With its traditional Japanese menu, serene music authentic décor and fine service, and the majestic Aegean wild greens. HHH Daily L & D. and lush green garden, Hori is everything you horses that greet its guests at the door. Exotic www.eleosrestaurant.com. İstiklal Cad. 231, K:2, would want in a Japanese restaurant. The menu flavours in portions large enough to share are Hıdivval Palas, Beyoğlu, Tünel. includes sashimi, sushi and fried and steamed accompanied by a good choice of wines, special T: 0212 244 9090-91. C5. selections. HHH Daily L & D. www.hori.com.tr. cocktails, sake and beer. HHH www.pfchangs.com. Grand Hyatt Hotel, Harbiye Mah. Taşkışla Cad. 1, tr. Nispetiye Cad. 94, Etiler. T: 0212 358 6060. Lokanta Maya Şişli. T: 0212 230 9000. B6. Off map. A warm, simple restaurant with a menu focusing on Aegean and Mediterranean specialities, Maya Miyako Shang Palace uses only fresh seasonal ingredients. Some of the Award-winning restaurant offering three fine Asian Exciting classical and innovative Chinese dishes favourites include chicken liver pate, marinated sea dining experiences: sushi bar, Teppanyaki cuisine are served alongside information on the cuisine. bass and fish croquettes. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. plus tatami room. The Japanese garden adds a Favourites include Peking duck, filet mignon slices www.lokantamaya.com. Kemankeş Cad. 35 A, further Asian touch. Sake is served warm or cold to marinated in Chinese wine, and ginger seafood. Karaköy. T: 0212 252 6884. D5. accompany the meal. HHHH Tue-Sun 7pm-11pm. D. HHHH Daily L & D. Sinanpaşa Mah. Hayrettin www.swissotel.com.tr. Bayıldım Cad. 2, Swissôtel İskelesi Sok. 1, Beşiktaş. ASIAN & Far EASTERN The Bosphorus, Maçka. T: 0212 326 1100. B7. T: 0212 275 8888. B7. Maromi Teppanyaki Alaturka Banyan The restaurant has been an Istanbul hit since the Asian and Turkish delicacies are prepared with The exquisite flavours of the Far East. Famous for day it opened, enhanced by a mystical atmosphere the traditional Japanese teppanayaki griddle its omelette varieties from 20 countries. Menus with decor brought from Japan. Stars on the menu technique, and served in a dramatic fashion. include samosa with Vietnamese-style vegetable include tofu salad and calamari crepes, and for The interior is dominated by a wood décor ; VIP chili sauce, Singapore-style noodles and sushi. dessert, green tea ice cream. HHH Daily L & D. sections also available. HHH Daily L & D. HHHH Daily L & D. www.banyanrestaurant.com. www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, Asker Ocağı www.teppanyakialaturka.com. Nispetiye Cad. 107, Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane Sok. 3/2, Ortaköy. Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. B6. Etiler. T: 0212 287 8228. Off map. T: 0212 259 9060-70. Off map. Miyabi Sushi Wagamama Dragon Restaurant The elegant restaurant serves top-class Japanese Extensive menu offers distinctive asian flavours. Delicious dishes by Hong Kong chefs served in a food in a modern atmosphere. Featuring natural A big hit with noodle lovers, this restaurant offers a

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www.nanşişhane.com Meşrutiyet Cad. 102 A, HHHH Daily D. Tomtom Suites, Boğazkesen Cad. paintings by Turkish artists that give an intimate Park Fora and a special şöbiyet (cream-filled baklava) from Şişhane, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 0174. C5. Tomtom Kaptan Sok.18, Beyoğlu. Guidelines club feel. Try the delicious seafood and liver dishes. Popular restaurant offering delicious seafood and Gaziantep. HHHH Daily L & D. T: 0212 292 4467. C5. HHH Daily L & D. www.kiyi.com.tr. Haydar Aliyev high-quality service. Appetizers include salted www.poseidonbebek.com. Küçük Bebek, Cevdet Ritim Galata This directory, grouped by category, is a Cad. 186, Tarabya. T: 0212 262 0002. Off map. bonito, octopus salad, shrimp roquefort and grilled Paşa Cad. 58, Bebek. T: 0212 287 9531. Off map. This café’s high ceilings and smart décor give it a Nopa compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes calamari. Fishcakes and salt-baked fish highly distinct historical atmosphere with its lively mood Among the cafés you’ll find this elegant restaurant Limani Revma Balık regular advertisers. recommended. HHHH Daily L & D. and delicious choice of snack foods, it’s the ideal with a long bar, vertical gardens on its walls, a The restaurant is a simple, comfortable restaurant Located in the beautiful Bosphorus quarter of www.parkfora.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. Cemil spot for a break on your tour of Galata. Galata glass ceiling and an exclusive cocktail menu. right on the shores of the Bosphorus. It specialises Arnavutköy, and boasting an impressive view, MAP LOCATIONS Topuzlu Parkı 54-A, Ortaköy. Revma Balık serves original house mezes and fish Kulesi Sok. 3/D, Galata, Beyoğlu. Recommended dishes include exotic seafood Note that the references at the end of each list- in fresh seasonal fish with traditional sauces, plus T: 0212 265 5063. A9. dishes in a welcome, homely atmosphere. Menu T: 0212 292 4929. C5. specialities, plus beef ribs roasted for 12 hours, and ing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to pages 70-71. favourite items such as calamari yahni: oven-baked lamb shank menu for two. HHHH Daily L, D & N. highlights include octopus beğendi, hot wild octopus with new potatoes, tender spinach and Poseidon Atiye Sok. 6, Nişantaşı. T:0212 327 5868. greens platter, sea bass wrapped in chard, and A6. GENERAL information asparagus. HHH The Grand Tarabya, Seafood at its best against a magnificent view CAFE, restaurant& BAR Reservations for most restaurants are strongly fried shrimp pastries. Daily L & D. Haydar Aliyev Cad. 154, Tarabya, Sarıyer. of İstanbul. Specialties include stuffed calamari, Pancaldi advised. Check when booking that the restau- www.revmabalik.com Arnavutköy, Bebek Cad. Ada Bosphorus In keeping with Turkish hospitality and Ramada rant will accept your credit card. Value Added www.thegrandtarabya.com. baked as well as Greek-style grilled octopus, No:7, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 5060. Off map. It is an ideal place to relax while sampling Worldwide’s superior standards of quality and Tax (VAT) is automatically included in the bill, T: 0212 363 3300. Off map. cold meats, a variety of Turkish and foreign wines delicious dishes while enjoying a stunning view service, Pancaldi Restaurant offers delicious but tips are generally not added. A 10% cash Sur Balık Arnavutköy gratuity is common. of the Bosphorus. The space is open and airy and selections from local and international cuisines. Sur Balık is located in a simple 150-year-old breakfast on the terrace overlooking the water is a HHH Daily B, L & D. seaside mansion, with walls sporting old İstanbul special treat. HH Daily B&L&D. PLEASE NOTE: ALL RESTAURANTS & photographs. Sea bass marinated with basil, www.ramadaplazaistanbul.com. BARS ARE NON-SMOKING. www.adakitapcafe.com. Muallim Naci Cad. Halaskargazi Cad. 63, Ramada Plaza, Osmanbey. anglerfish ricado and profiteroles with tahini are Öksüz Çocuk Sok. 1, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 315 4444. A6. index to abbreviations just a few of the highly-recommended treats. T: 0212 263 9003. Off map. B: Open for breakfast L & D: Open lunch & HHH Daily L & D. www.surbalikarnavutkoy.com. dinner only. Bebek Arnavutköy Cad. 52, Arnavutköy. Chapelle T: 0212 257 2743-44. Off map. This stylish venue’s delicious charcuterie plate FISH & SEAFOOD PRICES and rich choice of wines are reminiscent of a Prices per person for three courses and coffee, Tapasuma Akıntıburnu Parisian brasserie. Chapelle’s decor is a fascinating no alcohol. Tapasuma serves traditional Turkish treats in hot This lovely restaurant in Arnavutköy offers a combination of mystic, modern and classic, with H – TL 0-30 per person and cold tapas form, along with fresh fish from glorious Bosphorus view, freshly-caught fish and HH a spacious garden. HHH Daily L & D. Rixos Pera, – TL 30-60 per person the Bosphorus and a range of mezes. Enjoy the seafood, and mezes prepared daily. The mackerel HHH – TL 60-90 per person Meşrutiyet Cad. 44, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. panoramic views on the shores of the Bosphorus with soy sauce, baked shellfish and HHHH – over TL 90 per person – there’s also a boat service available from T: 0212 377 7000. C4. are some of the favourites. HHH Daily L & D. Kuruçeşme. HHH Daily L & D. www.tapasuma.com. Noi Restaurant & Bar 1. Bebek Cad. 115, Akıntıburnu, Arnavutköy. Kuleli Cad. 43, Çengelköy. T: 0216 401 1333. Set up as a glassed-fronted, enclosed winter T: 0212 263 4829. Off map. Established as a Greek coffeehouse in the early Off map. garden, this restaurant offers an excellent Arnavutköy Balıkçısı 1800s, it became a Greek tavern before assuming Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçı panoramic view of the city. Start the day with its A cozy restaurant with simple, unpretentious its current form in 1950. Specialties include grilled This historical fish restaurant offers fresh fish every delicious breakfast spreads including homemade decor complemented by nostalgic photos of the calamari in soy sauce, shrimp in vine leaves, turbot, weekday between 12pm and 4pm. Fish is displayed granola, or enjoy dinner of global cuisine. Daily Arnavutköy waterfront. The menu includes cold sea bream, haddock and gurnard. HHH Daily L & D. at the entrance; select your fish and wait for it to be B, L & D. www.noiistanbul.com. Otlukbeli Cad. prepared by expert chefs. HHH Daily L & D. mezes like mackerel with soy sauce, salt-cured tuna www.cengelkoyiskelerestaurant.com. Bebekköy Sok. 4, Etiler. T: 0212 287 1506. Off map. www.tarihikarakoybalikcisi.com. Tersane Cad. and sea bass salad, and hot appetizers like sauteed Çengelköy İskele Gazinosu Sok. 4, Çengelköy. T: 0216 321 5506. Kardeşim Sok. 45, Karaköy. T: 0212 251 1371. D4. The House Café monkfish, fried calamari and fish croquettes. Off map. The House Cafe was established in 2002 at an HHHH Daily L & D. www.arnavutkoybalikcisi.com. Del Mare 1. Cadde 4, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 257 0525. apartment building in Teşvikiye. In a short period of Off map. Excellent location on the Bosphorus with a french time, the cafe became a success with its seasonal Balıkçı Sabahattin delightful view, especially inviting at sunset. and fresh ingredients providing food, wide range Brass Extensive fish menu and excellent service, Extensive Italian and Greek menu: Try specialities of beverages and cosy environment. Combining two types of contrasting cuisine in located in the historical area of Cankurtaran, including mussel ravioli, paella, and fish on mashed www.thehousecafe.com. luxurious simplicity, the menu at Brass offers near Sultanahmet. The skillfully prepared fish . Also accessible by boat from Kuruçeşme The House Cafe Ortaköy, Salhane Sok. 1, Ortaköy, such treats as bouillabaisse and filet mignon with is especially good with rakı, and the mussel on the European side. HHHH Daily L&D. T: 0212 227 2699. Off map. béarnaise sauce, miso soup, tofu and tuna tataki pilaf and courgette with yoghurt come highly www.del-mare.com. Kuleli Cad. 53/4, Çengelköy. The House Cafe Teşvikiye, Atiye Sok. 10-11, salad, and a selection of Asian desserts. recommended. HHH Daily L & D. T: 0216 422 5762. Off map. Teşvikiye. T: 0212 259 2377. A6. Guests can also enjoy live jazz performances www.balikcisabahattin.com. Şehit Hasan Kuyu Sok. Eftalya (Fri&Sat). HHH Daily 11am-11pm. 1, Cankurtaran, Fatih. T: 0212 458 1824. F5. With a maritime-themed interior complete with www.martiistanbulhotel.com. Abdülhak Hamit Cad. 25/B, Taksim. T: 0212 987 4020. contemporary Bebek Balıkçı mermaid reliefs, choose your fish and enjoy C5. European This restaurant located in the upmarket appetizers with marvellous Bosphorus views. La Brise Brasserie neighbourhood of Bebek on the Bosphorus serves Be sure to try the and onion salad, fried A brasserie with an Art Nouveau décor, La Brise Circle Brasserie a full array of seafood, with specialities including calamari and seasonal fish varieties. HHH Daily L offers always seasonal cooking and a great Located in the Mualla Hanım Mansion, Circle grilled and pan-fried fish, and fish cooked in paper. & D. www.eftalya.net. Arnavutköy Mah. 1. Cad. 32, selection of drinks. Unmissable dishes include Brasserie offers casual fine dining in a romantic HHHH Daily L & D. www.bebekbalikci.net. Arnavutköy. T: 0212 287 2520. Off map.Suadiye, steak tartare, duck confit and Chateaubriand. atmosphere, directly on the sparkling waters of the Cevdet Paşa Cad. 26/A, Bebek. Kazım Özalp Sok. 60, Suadiye. HHH Daily L & D. www.brasserielabrise.com. Bosphorus. The menu offers a tempting variety, T: 0212 263 3447. Off map. T: 0216 350 0152. Off map. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 11A, Nişantaşı. from asparagus risotto to lamb shanks, octopus T: 0212 244 4846. A6. marinated in wine sauce and delicious . Chef Mezze Galatalı Balık HHHHDaily B, L & D. www.circle.com.tr. Köybaşı Located actually in the Bosphorus, this restaurant Galatalı Balık serves Cunda cuisine (from Turkey’s La Petite Maison Cad. Daire Sok. Mualla Hanım Yalısı, 5/A,Yeniköy. offers fresh seafood plus Middle Eastern, northwest coast) including Aegean wild greens, With a menu that takes you to the French T: 0212 262 8455. Off map. Mediterranean and Aegean mezes. Shrimp risotto calamari with almond tarator and mackerel with Riviera, this restaurant with high ceilings and and linguini with lobster are two of the most- aioli. It also boasts incomparable views of the a formal garden is pure French. The cuisine Nicole ordered specialties. Daily L & D. HHHH Prince’s Islands. HHHH www.galatalibalik.com. focuses especially on the dishes of Nice and the Nicole occupies an elegant terrace with a view www.chefmezze.com. Sortie, Muallim Naci Cad. 54, Plaj Yolu Sok Suadiye Park, A Blok 18, Kadıköy. Mediterranean; the grilled lamb sautéed in herbs is of the Historic Peninsula, the Prince’s Islands and Kuruçeşme. T: 0530 067 5040. Off map. T: 0216 410 3959-69. Off map. one of the stars of the menu. Daily L & D. beyond. The chefs create new interpretations www.lpmistanbul.com.tr Maçka Palas, Maçka Cad. of classic flavours, with fresh vegetables from Çengelköy İskele Restaurant Kıyı 33/B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 0232. A6. Feriköy’s organic market, focusing on freshly- Best fish restaurant on the Asian side, both for A unique fish restaurant on the Bosphorus with caught local seafood and native Kıvırcık lamb. the quality of its fish and its Bosphorus view. wood-paneled décor and photographs and

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Mama Shelter with branches throughout İstanbul. The venue T: 0212 225 0604. A6. Pera, Asmalımescit Mah. restaurant in the evenings, with tasty international Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 292 6862. B6. www.cinarhotel.com.tr. Çınar Hotel Fener Mevkii, Designed by Philippe Starck and offering delicious makes a point of using fresh natural and organic Oteller Sok. 10-B, Beyoğlu. cuisines. Live music by local and international Yeşilköy. T: 0212 663 2900. Off map. La Boom creations by French chef Jérôme Banctel, Mama ingredients. HHH Daily B, L & D. T: 0212 244 8455 - 56. C4. musicians after 10pm. Accessible by boat service New York Citty’s neighborhood styled bistro, Laledan Shelter’s wood ovens turn out a tempting array of www.eliteworldhotel.com.tr. Şehit Muhtar Cad. 42, departing from Salacak on the hour. Divan Brasserie Beyoğlu restaurant, and cafe, La Boom offers international Boasting an open buffet breakfast with over 250 pide and pizzas. Other dishes include a variety of Elite World İstanbul Hotel, Taksim. HHH The brasserie is residing on top of a renovated Daily L & D. www.kizkulesi.com.tr. Salacak meat dishes including beef tartare with sesame T: 0212 313 8383. tastes like crab served on oyster shells, Rigatoni items with 80% organic ingredients, and Arab, B5. Mevkii, Üsküdar. T: 0216 342 4747. D7. and soy sauce. HHH Daily B & L & D. han (large commerce building). With a terrace Pitti or Praline fete. HHH Daily B & L & D & N. Asian and sushi corner between 6.30am and 11am. Cafe Sofa overlooking the Bosphorus and the historic www.mamasehelter.com. İstiklal Cad. Atıf Yılmaz Kitchenette Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 14, Emirgan. Legendary Çırağan Brunch on Sundays from 12pm- This delightful café with a simple, home-style old city the restaurant is a choice for extended 4pm. Laledan Restaurant serves an all-day dining Sok. 50-54, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 0100. D5. A quality chain with locations throughout İstanbul, T: 0212 277 8807. Off map. décor, offers a menu of dishes from around the luncheons, after-work cocktails, and dinner dates. menu, with delicious comfort food and regional Kitchenette boasts a broad array of dishes world. In addition, it also serves its special coffee Divan Brasserie’s menu is a journey through La Delicatesse Restaurant specialties. HHHH www.kempinski.com. Çırağan including breakfast, starters, sandwiches, salads, INTERNATIONAL and cocktails day and night. HHH Daily B, L & D. and international classics. Looking for something different? Palace Kempinski İstanbul, Çırağan Cad. 32, pastas, meat, fish-seafood, fresh bread, cakes, and Try La Delicatesse to take in the colours of the www.thesofahotel.com. The Sofa Hotel, Teşvikiye HH Mon, Wed, Sun L&D. Thu-Sat L&D&N. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 7333. B8. 360 İstanbul Restaurant&Bar exclusively produced house wines, olives and olive Cad. 41-41 A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 368 1818. A6. www.divan.com.tr Tom Tom Mah. İstiklal Cad. seaside and enjoy the enchanting moonlight with Commanding a full panoramic view of İstanbul Merkezhan, K:5 & 6, 181, Beyoğlu. oils. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.kitchenette.com.tr. family and friends, and savour dishes prepared with La Torre including Hagia Sophia and the Sea of Marmara. Cantinery HHH Exclusive Located in Le Méridien İstanbul Etiler, T: 0212 243 2481. C4. The Marmara Taksim, Gümüşsuyu Mah. Takı Zafer care and love. Daily L & D. DJ and live performances combined with great This restaurant, featuring decor by American featuring creative takes on Mediterranean and cuisine, and contemporary interior at the top of designers Roman & Willams, offers a wide range of Divan Brasserie Bebek Turkish cuisine by award-winning chefs. Try the a 19th- century building. Try the Zen soup for innovative dishes including lobster burger, shrimp The brasserie offers breathtaking views and a menu stuffed köfte with cheek of beef, and the crab starters, then choose from mains like filet mignon carpaccio, codfish gyoza and mastic cheesecake. that combines the best of Turkish and international tartare appetizer. HHH Daily L & D. with chili and bitter chocolate, or lamb confite, and The fresh Italian-style breads baked daily are cuisine, including classic and modern flavours, www.latorre-restaurant.com.tr. Le Meridien top it off with the “death by chocolate” dessert. especially delicious. Daily B, L & D. Zorlu Center, complemented by an extensive wine cellar. İstanbul Etiler, Cengiz Topel Cad. 39, Etiler. HHHH Daily L & D. www.360istanbul.com. Zincirlikuyu. T: 0212 353 6365. Off map. HHH Daily B & L & D. www.divan.com.tr. Cevdet T: 0212 3840000. Off map. İstiklal Cad. Mısır Apt. 163, K:8, Beyoğlu. Paşa Cad. 28/A, Bebek. T: 0212 263 2973. Off map. Can Oba Restaurant T: 0212 251 1042. C5. Masa It may be small in size but it’s huge in quality. This Divan Brasserie Kalamış Dishes include salmon sashimi, bresaola followed Agatha Restaurant restaurant offers delicious dishes created by chef This is an excellent choice for those looking to by grilled meat, poultry and fish courses, as well as The main restaurant of the recently-reopened Pera Can Oba and his team, including their signature escape the city’s hustle and bustle, a safe haven and pide from a wood oven. The chocolate Palace Hotel, Agatha combines French, Italian and fish soup and seafood with a tempting choice of of calm and elegance where you can enjoy souffle is well worth the calories. Frequented by Turkish flavours – all on the route of Orient Express sauces. Mon-Sat L & D. Hoca Paşa Sok. 10, Sirkeci. Divan chefs’ most enticing specialities, against a celebrities. HHH Daily L & D. – and presents them in a stylish atmosphere. T: 0212 522 1215. D6. backdrop of white sailboats riding at anchor. www.masainternational.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. Very good wine list. HHH Daily B, L&D. HH Mon-Fri B, L & D; Fri & Sat B, L, D & N. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 486, Sarıyer. Cipriani Pera Palace Hotel, Meşrutiyet Cad. 52, Tepebaşı, www.divan.com.tr. Amiral Fahri Korutürk Yat Limanı, T: 0212 345 5323. This international restaurant chain is, famous for Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Beyoğlu. T: 0212 377 4000. C4. Kalamış. T: 0216 414 5703. Off map. its unique approach to world dining. The interior Maybe Salomanje Antiochia is striking with its and earth-toned interior Galata Kiva Try local delicacies like stuffed chard, Turkish This restaurant is the only place in Beyoğlu where and low tables, and the menu offers all the classic One of the most notable products of the dumplings, mücver, cızbız köfte, çentik kebabı and you can find a genuine Antakya-style dürüm, flavours of Harry’s Bar in Venice. HHH Daily L & D. multicultural Ottoman civilization is its cuisine. Kiva mosaic cake in this great spot for lunch, a romantic flavored with peppers and allspice and wrapped in www.cipriani.com. Edition Hotel, Levent Mah. offers the perfect opportunity to rediscover the dinner or Sunday brunch. Its bar is also highly thin bread. The menu also includes Syrian, Büyükdere Cad. 2/1, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 317 7787. secret flavours of Anatolia. Also with a branch on popular. HHH Daily L&D. www.salomanje.com.tr. Lebanese, French and Ottoman specialities such Off map. the Asian side. HHH Daily B, L & D. Galata Tower Atiye Sok. 4/2, Teşvikiye. as locally spiced grilled meats, and mezes of olives Meydanı, Şahkulu, Şah Kapısı Sok. 4, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 327 3577. City Lights A6. with zahter and hummus. HH Mon-Sat L & D. T: 0212 292 98 98. C5. www.antiochiaconcept.com. Asmalımescit, Commanding a breathtaking Bosphorus view from Mercure the roof of the Taksim Ceylan Intercontinental Hardal Nişantaşı Minare Sok. 21, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 1100. C5. In this fine-dining restaurant, there’s a huge range Hotel, City Lights adds live music, delicious food, A comfortable and colourful venue designed dishes ranging from Asian to American brasserie Bej Karaköy fine wines and a great selection of cocktails. If it’s around the concept of “Eat, Play, Drink”, this offerings, with choice of world cuisine from French, With a menu offering both Turkish and European an exclusive evening you’re after, look no further. funky eaterie is dominated by orange and yellow Italian and Indian to Turkish cuisines. Daily B, L & cuisine and fresh fruit cocktails, this French-style HHHH istanbul.intercontinental.com.tr. décor and graffiti on the walls. Specialties include D. Ömer Avni Mah. İnönü Cad. 42, Gümüşsuyu, restaurant stays open into the night on weekends. Intercontinental İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, hot wings, steak fajitas, and sirloin with café de Beyoğlu. T: 0212 924 2727. C4. Make sure to sample the salads and desserts. Taksim. T: 0212 368 4444. B6. Paris sauce. HH Daily B, L & D. www.hardal.com.tr. HH Mon-Thu 10am-12am, Fri & Sat 10am-2am. Teşvikiye Mah. Atiye Sok. 7, Nişantaşı. Midpoint Cloud7 Restaurant, Bar & Terrace Sun 10am-5pm. Kemankeş Cad. Fransız Geçidi T: 0212 219 7323. A5. Select varieties from international cuisines, warm Located on the top floor, this restaurant takes in a İş Merkezi, 11 A, Karaköy. T: 0212 251 7195. C5. architecture and unparalleled presentation. Among breathtaking Bosphorus view. With its new name Huqqa the many choices, the vegetable fettucini and thin Big Chef and remodelled interior, the restaurant offers a rich This world cuisine restaurant overlooking the taco salad, Cajun basket, Bosphorus kebab and Whether you’re just starting your day or going for selection of Turkish and world cuisines. HHH Daily Bosphorus is dominated by lively décor featuring Carribean dessert are particularly worth a try. lunch, a coffee break or dinner, Big Chef has a great B, L & D. www.hilton.com.tr. Hilton ParkSa, Maçka pastels and geometric designs. The menu includes HH Daily B, L & D. www.midpoint.com.tr. Abdi range of choices. The rich menu, from burgers to Bayıldım Cad. 12. T: 0212 258 5674. both regional Turkish and Italian dishes; the Pizza B7. İpekçi Cad. 59, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 9401. A6. healthy salads, filling wraps and fresh juices, is sure Funghi Carnaval and Oreo Dream Cheesecake are Compass Roof Restaurant&Bar to have something to appeal to everyone. well worth a try. No alcohol. HHH www.huqqa.com. Minyon HHH Daily B, L & D. www.bigchefs.com.tr. Located in the Titanic Hotel in Kartal, this spot Muallim Naci Cad. 56, Kuruçeşme. Minyon presents world cuisine in a modern, offers many special flavours ranging from seafood Meşrutiyet Cad. 96, Tünel, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 265 0666. Off map. unpretentious ambiance. Minyon’s olives, 29-day to select Far Eastern dishes. Savour the variety of T: 0212 251 7180. C5. aged ribeye schnitzel, and chocolate almond tart cocktails while enjoying live music in the elegant İst Too are just a few of their very special dishes. HHH Bosphorus Grill and charming modern ambiance. HHH Daily D. This spot between Dolmabahçe Palace and the www.minyon.com. W İstanbul, Süleyman Seba Cad. This elegant, shaded restaurant overlooking the Kaptan-ı Derya Cad. 37, Titanic Business Hotel, Naval Museum serves fine Japanese, Southeast 22, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 381 2121. B7. Bosphorus serves a tempting menu of grilled Kartal. T: 0216 453 5050. Off map. Asian, Mediterranean and Turkish dishes, including meats, fish and seafood, plus Turkish favourites. a good selection of sushi and noodles. Nikol Delicatessen This summer’s surprise is a selection of specially Mon-Sat L & D. HHHH www.shangri-la.com. This concept shop and kitchen turns out marinated meats and fish cooked in an Indian-style Featuring dishes that combine Turkish tastes, Shangri-La Bopshorus, Hayrettin İskelesi Sok. 1, chocolates, pastries, organic cookies, snacks, local ingredients and international delicacies, . HHH Daily D. Çırağan Palace Kempinski Beşiktaş. T: 0212 275 8888. B7. salads and more. Take a close look at the décor; İstanbul, Çırağan Cad. 84, Beşiktaş. the extensive menu includes breakfast, starters, everything in this modern vintage venue is for sale! sandwiches, fresh ravioli, lasagne, meat and fish Kız Kulesi (Maidens Tower) T: 0212 236 7333. B8/B9. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.nikolgalata.com. Serdar-ı courses as well as an extensive wine list. HHH Located in the middle of the Bosphorus, with Ekrem Sok. 9, Galata. T: 0212 251 5158. D5. Brasserie, The Daily B, L & D. www.delicatessenistanbul.com. superb 360-degree view, the Maiden’s Tower International and local flavours meet at this chain Nişantaşı, Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 19/1, Nişantaşı. serves as a coffee house during the day and

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Olivos Restaurant Sky Bar stuffed homemade fagottini. HHH Wed-Sat L & D; Decorated in warm, brilliant colours, Olivos A la carte restaurant on the top floor of the Plaza Tue-Sat D; Sun L. www.anticalocanda.com.tr. Restaurant’s award-winning culinary team offers Hotel with one of the finest panoramic views of Satış Meydanı 12, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 287 9745. Mediterranean and international cuisine in smart, the city, featuring international cuisine and fine Off map. casual and comfortable surroundings. HHH Daily B, service. HHH Tue-Sun D. www.theplazahotel.com. L & D. www.radissonblu.com. Radisson Blu Airport tr. Barbaros Bulvarı 165, The Plaza Hotel İstanbul, Aqua One of the most talk-about restaurants in İstanbul Hotel, E-5 Karayolu 20, Küçükçekmece. Balmumcu, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 370 2020. A8. with its master chefs, unparalleled service and T: 0212 411 3838. Off map. Starboard Restaurant excellent location. Modern interior. Mainly Park Şamdan Enjoy al fresco dining complemented by a Mediterranean and Italian dis hes, minestrone A classic venue in town, Park Şamdan offers spectacular setting along the Bosphorus. The soup, line caught sea bass filet, mixed sea-food an extensive menu of delicious Turkish and restaurant draws local and foreign guests with its plate. HHHH Daily B, L & D. 6am-11pm. international delicacies. Wide variety of local and innovative Mediterranean menu highlighting fresh www.fourseasons.com. Four Seasons Bosphorus, foreign liquors and cocktails. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. seafood dishes. HHHH Daily B, L & D. Çırağan Cad. Çırağan Cad. 28, Beşiktaş. www.parksamdan.com. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 14, 46, Radisson Blu Bosphorus Hotel, Ortaköy. T: 0212 381 4059. A9. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 0710. A6. T: 0212 310 1500. B8. Carluccio’s Park Şamdan Pera Sultan Restaurant The İstanbul branch of this restaurant, named after With its new location in the Rixos Pera Hotel, Park Elegant, wood-dominated interior reminiscent of famous chef Antonio Carluccio himself, serves Şamdan offers fine dining featuring Turkish and palaces surrounded by glass walls. The talented authentic Italian flavours in a relaxed, authentic international specialities, plus exciting nightlife kitchen team produces select flavours from Turkish atmosphere. Check out their gourmet market. spiced up by Turkish music. HHH Mon-Fri L, D & N. and world cuisines. HHHH Daily L & D. HHH Daily B, L & D. Kanyon Shopping Centre, www.parksamdan.com. Tamer Hatun, Meşrutiyet www.grandcevahirhotel.com. Grand Cevahir Hotel, Büyükdere Cad. 185, Levent. T: 0212 353 0545. Cad. 44, K:8, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 377 7000. C4. Darülaceze Cad. Okmeydanı, Şişli. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). T: 0212 314 4242. Off map. Parlé Cento Per Cento This elegant and sophisticated restaurant serves Turkuaz Restaurant With a concept based on everyday Italian food, fine international cuisine in its own unique style. Restaurant offering delightful international starters are served in snack-sized portions so it’s Highlights of the menu include filet mignon with flavours. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.dedeman.com. easy to sample a wide range of dishes. Chef’s Cafe De Paris sauce, roast duck and seafood salad Dedeman İstanbul, Yıldız Posta Cad. 50, Esentepe. homemade ravioli, fresh pastas and classical with goat cheese. HHHH Daily L & D. T: 0212 337 4500. A7. Neapolitan pizza by-the-meter are some of the HHH Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. highlights. Mon-Sat L & D. Tuti www.centopercento.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. T: 0212 353 6340. Off map. In the middle of the city, this stylish restaurant Zati Apt. 36, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 6202. A6. Picasso Restaurant boasts a menu with world flavours, plus a fine wine HHH Da Mario Ottoman and Spanish cuisines are well represented cellar with over 200 selections. Daily B, L & D. With a typical southern Italian atmosphere on Picasso’s a la carte menu and in the buffet. www.themarmarahotels.com. The Marmara Taksim, and delicious Mediterranean dishes including HHH Daily L & D. www.barcelo.com. Taksim Meydanı. T: 0212 334 8300. B6. homemade fresh pastas and pizzas from the wood Millet Cad. 186, Barceló Eresin Topkapı. Ulus 29 oven. Extensive wine list. HHHH Daily L & D. T: 0212 631 1212. Off map. Flavours from around the world by international www.istanbuldoors.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. chefs who prepare sushi and Mediterranean dishes Remina Restaurant Dilhayat Sok. 7, Etiler. T: 0212 265 5186. Off map. plus Turkish specialties such as kebab and pide. In one of the most beautiful spots on Kalamış bay, Dazzling panoramic view of Bosphorus. Booking Del Mare Remina serves a tempting selection of international required. HHHH Mon-Fri L & D, Sat-Sun D. Excellent location on the Bosphorus with a dishes. Try their pepper cream soup, Chalcedon www.club29.com. Adnan Saygun Cad. Yol Sok. 71/1, delightful view, especially inviting at sunset. burger, and basil-parmesan bread fresh from the Ulus. T: 0212 358 2929. Try specialities including mussel ravioli, paella, and oven daily. HHH Daily B, L & D. Off map. fish on mashed eggplant. Also accessible by boat Wyndham İstanbul, Fener Cad. 38, Kalamış. Veranda Grill & Bar from Kuruçeşme on the European side. HHHH T: 0216 400 0000. Off map. Enjoy a wonderful combination of alfresco dining Daily L & D. www.del-mare.com. Kuleli Cad. 45/1, with a Bosphorus view, and select Turkish and View Point Restaurant Çengelköy. T: 0216 422 5762. Off map. international dishes including delicious kebabs and The first Art Tech hotel in Turkey, Point Hotel fresh charcoal-grilled fish and burgers. Or head to Eataly Barbaros Roof restaurant with its excellent the bar for a wonderful cocktail with a breathtaking With 24 branches including New York, Chicago and Bosphorus view offers an open buffet featuring the İstanbul sunset. HHH www.hilton.com.tr. several Italian cities, this new venue of the market- exquisite flavours of Turkish cuisine. Daily D. Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet Cad. Harbiye. restaurant chain offers top-quality Italian cheeses, HHH Daily B, L & D. www.pointhotel.com. T: 0212 343 8081. B6. pastas, sauces and more. Featuring fine food and Point Hotel Barbaros, Esentepe Yıldız Posta Cad. quality shopping, Eataly scores high points with its 29, Şişli. T: 0212 337 3000. A7. Vogue Restaurant & Bar pizzas and desserts HHH Daily 10am-11pm. Located on the top floor of BJK Plaza, this elegant Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu. www.eataly.com.tr. Sarnıç restaurant offers 70 different sushi varieties. T: 0212 336 6600. A restaurant dating to the Repuclican period Off map. Enjoy white and red house wines as well as olive housed in a cistern at the end of an old Ottoman oils exclusively prepared for Vogue against a Emporio Armani Ristorante street. Favourites include shrimp cocktail, crepe superb Bosphorus view. Reservations required. This casual dining spot features a cafe and bar on Bosphorus, paçanga börek, Karsky Oriental, and HHHH Daily L & D. www.istanbuldoors.com. its lower floor. The furniture, dominated by ivory desserts like fried bananas and pineapple with Spor Cad. BJK Plaza A Blok 92, K:13, Akaretler. and black, is accompanied by Armani sparkle on ice cream. Daily D. www.sarnicrestaurant.com. T: 0212 227 4404. B7. the wall. The menu features outstanding traditional Soğukçeşme Sok. 26, Sultanahmet. Italian and Mediterranian flavours including T: 0212 512 4291- 0212 513 3660. F4. scallops with cream sauce, capesante and classic ITALIAN Italian panna cotta. HHH Daily L & D. İstinye Park Sekizİstanbul 519, İstinye, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6140. A popular spot with simple white décor, regulars Antica Locanda Shopping Centre Map (p.38). love the delicious treats from its pizza oven, snack The former bakery of the Taxiarchis Greek selections and 37 tempting dishes, both Turkish Orthodox Church – İstanbul’s largest Ottoman- Fratelli La Bufala and international. HHH Daily L & D. Wed-Sat L, D & era Greek church – is now a restaurant serving Known for its buffalo mozzarella, this restaurant is N. www.sekizistanbul.com. Kuloğlu Mah. Gazeteci traditional Italian food. Favourite menu items also famed for its Neapolitan-style pizzas. Taste Erol Dernek Sok. 1, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 8924. C5. include the Sardinian-style potatoes with mint and the superb cheese on the pizzas themselves, and

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you can even order it in single 125- or 500-gram by expert chefs, select wines and a brathtaking Halat Restaurant sauce. HHH Daily L & D. www.topazistanbul.com. portions. Delicious! HHH Daily L & D. Bosphorus view. HHH Daily L & D. Located inside the Rahmi M. Koç Museum, this İnönü Cad. Devres Han 50, Gümüşsuyu. www.fratellilabufalaistanbul.com. Kar Kuyusu Sok. www.hilton.com.tr. Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet restaurant boasts an eye-catching interior where T: 0212 249 1001. B6. Trump Towers Mall, Zemin K:13 Şişli. Cad. K:9, Harbiye. T: 0212 343 8081. sailboats are used for décor. The menu is based on B6. Sir Winston Brasserie T: 0212 347 99 00. Off map. Mediterranean cuisine with an extensive local and foreign wine list. HHH Daily L & D. This elegantly and meticulously decorated venue Jamie’s Italian MEDITERRANEAN www.halatrestaurant.com. Rahmi Koç Museum, really stands out. On the menu, Italian pizzas, With a creative menu featuring authentic gourmet Kumbarhane Cad. 2, Hasköy, Sütlüce. pastas and risottos are paired with traditional wines dishes made with the freshest ingredients, Jamie’s 34 Restaurant from Turkey’s Urla region. Try their delicious salads, T: 0212 369 6616. B2. menu includes delicious köfte, chicken with Personalised service with live kitchen shows and chicken, meat and fish marinated in a special couscous, and treats from around the world, in a form just part of the exclusive atmosphere at 34 Lacivert sauce for a feast fit for a king – and top it off with a warm, welcoming environment. Restaurant. Its ‘Food under the Sun’ concept, Exquisite Mediterranean flavours combined with splendid dessert. HHH Şair Nedim Cad. 3, Beşiktaş, HHH Daily L & D. www.jamieoliver.com. based on Mediterranean and Turkish cuisine, a most romantic Bosphorus view. The restaurant Akaretler. T: 212 259 9919. B7. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. ensures a unique dining experience. Daily L & D, delights its guests with seasonally changing menus X Restaurant T: 0212 353 6808. Off map. Taşkışla Cad. 1, Taksim, Beyoğlu. and excellent seafood. Anything that comes out T: 0212 368 1234. C4. of the sea, from calamari to octopus, mussels and New venue located on the 6th floor of the Mezzaluna shrimp as well a vast selection of fish. İstanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts. Mainly Mezzaluna serves cold appetizers and carpaccios, A’jia Restaurant Brunch on Sundays. HHHH Daily L & D. Mediterranean menu offers risottos, pastas, pizzas thin crust pizzas baked in a wood oven, and fresh With its unique fusion of contemporary HHH www.lacivertrestaurant.com. Körfez Cad. 57/A, and desserts plus Turkish dishes. Daily L & D. hand-made pastas all in a colourful, cheerful interior design and 18th-century architecture www.xrestaurantbar.com. Sadi Konuralp Cad. 5, Anadolu Hisarı, Beykoz. T: 0216 413 4224. Off map. atmosphere. HHH Daily L & D. in a spectacular Bosphorus-front location, this Şişhane. T: 0212 244 7101. C5. www.mezzaluna.com.tr. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 21, restaurant has a reputation for quality service. La Mancha Yelken Restaurant Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 3142. A6. HHHH Daily B, L & D. www.ajiahotel.com. Serving a mix of Italian, Moroccan and Spanish Çubuklu Cad. 27, A’jia Hotel, Ahmet Rasim Paşa cuisine, La Mancha offers a delicious variety Boasting lovely Bosphorus views, this modern Mirror restaurant serves an excellent selection of classical Yalısı, Kanlıca. T: 0216 413 9300. Off map. of hot and cold tapas dishes, fresh seafood This venue includes both a restaurant and bar in and Costalatele alla Toscana, along with 150 Turkish fish dishes plus original Mediterranean a minimalist interior. Predominantly Italian menu Bloom wine selections and cocktails. Daily L & D. flavours including moules marineieres, surf and also offers delicacies from world cuisines. Chill-out This high-ceilinged spacious venue has another HHH www.lamancha.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. 107, turf, seafood linguini and paella. Daily L & cosy, groove, acid jazz and beach house music surprise – a wide green terrace filled with D. www.yelkenrestaurant.com. Köybaşı Cad. 58, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 257 1144. Off map. between 4pm-8pm and after dinner. HHH grapefruit, olive, pomegranate and orange trees. Yeniköy. T: 0212 262 9490. Off map. Daily L & D. www.mirrorbistro.com. Suadiye Park, The stars of the menu include dishes cooked in Mia Mensa A Blok 2, Kat: 3, Suadiye. T: 0216 464 2710. Off map. their stone oven; try beef tas kebabı, and köfte with This restaurant, serving Mediterranean and Italian kashar cheese, to name just a few. HH cuisine plus international dishes, is enhanced by MODERN OCAKBAŞI Morini Daily B, L & D. Ambarlı Dere Cad. 6, Ortaköy. its enchanting Bosphorus view. Try the flounder From the décor to the quality service, Morini is Ali T: 0212 288 6582. Off map. with lemon sauce, the four-cheese pizza and the pure New York. The home-made pastas reign With a view of the historic peninsula, high ceilings tiramisu. HHH www.miamensa.com. supreme here; the favourite of celebrities such as Flamingo and a modern design, Ali’s menu is devoted mainly Muallim Naci Cad. 64/C, Kuruçeşme. Catherine Zeta Jones, Brad Pitt and Heidi Klum, its Mediterranean cuisine with a focus on Italian takes to kebabs and meats. Specialities include their T: 0212 263 4214. Off map. dishes are created by Michelin-star chef Michael centre stage at this high-end restaurant, which signature Ali Kebap and the traditional pumpkin HHH White. HHHH Daily B, L & D. Daily B & L & D. converts into a nightclub after dinner. Items include Müzedechanga dessert served with tahini and ice cream. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. pizzas, pastas and risottos, plus desserts including The restaurant takes in breathtaking Bosphorus Daily L & D. Arap Camii Mah. Tersane Cad. 45/ 4, T: 0212 353 6767. Off map. chocolate mousse, chocolate tart and tiramisu. views and centuries-old pine trees, with an Grifin Han, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 1011. C5. The Prosecco cocktail comes highly recommended. excellent menu to match. Be sure to try the fresh Papermoon Peymane HHHH Mon-Sat L, D & N. www.flamingoist.com. blackeyed peas with tarator, filet mignon This elegant venue serves unique Italian delicacies. Located in a five-storey registered historical Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 232 6868. with green pilaf, tortellini with spinach and Its spacious bar and café are open all day, and B6. building, the restaurant also contains a charcuterie lor cheese, mosaic pastry and tiramisu. loved by İstanbul high society. Reservations Floripa with fine cheeses and cold meats. Above the HHH Tue-Sat L & D, Sat-Sun B. recommended. HHHH Daily L & D. This restaurant, café and bar in Rumelihisarı, on one entrance is a VIP salon, with an indoor dining room www.changa-istanbul.com. Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 42, www.papermoon.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez of the loveliest spots on the Bosphorus, welcomes on the top floor. The kebab grill lends an elegant Atlıköşk, Emirgan. T: 0212 323 0901. Off map. Shopping Centre 224, Etiler. T: 0212 282 1616. you with its Mediterranean food including salads, decorative touch. HHH Daily L & D. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). pastas, and pizzas cooked in a real wood oven. Orange Restaurant www.peymane-lacucina.com. Tophane, Tomtom, Its vast breakfast menu makes it the ideal place to This venue offers the flavours of Moroccan, Boğazkesen Cad. 65/1, Tophane. T: 0212 244 0955. Piola spend a long, relaxing weekend morning; at night Beyoğlu, Meşrutiyet Cad. Evliya Çelebi Mah. 94/A, Now boasting a branch in Turkey, international Algerian, Lebanese and Turkish cuisine. Floripa turns into a bar featuring great DJ sets. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 5314. C5. chain Piola is known as the ‘pizzeria to the stars’ A wide variety of grills, daily set menus and HHH Daily B, L, D & N. www.d-ream.com.tr. with regulars in its US branches including Will southern Mediterranean specialties promise Rumeli Hisarı, Baltalimanı Cad. No:4 Sarıyer. HHH Smith and Jennifer Lopez. Three-quarters of a delightful experience. Daily B, L & D. T: 0212 287 6220. new anatolıan its menu consists of pizzas, with fresh toppings Off map. www.orangemedgrill.com. Kayışdağ Cad. 1 /1, İstanbul Marriot Hotel Asia, Ataşehir. Mikla including mozzarella, shrimp and porcini. Frankie T: 0216 570 0038. Off map. Mikla opened in October 2005. The initial idea was HHH Daily L & D. www.pointhotel.com. Point Otel Boasting three different sections, choose from the Barbaros, Esentepe, Yıldız Posta Cad. 29, Şişli. to create a refined but contemporary “İstanbullu” terrace, city lounge and main restaurant. Among Sunset Grill&Bar Restaurant. Both the menu and the general feel T: 0212 337 3000. A7. the most impressive offerings are their artichoke This well-known İstanbul venue offers a of the Restaurant reflect the Turkish-Scandinavian mücver in cheese fondue, and talaş börek on a magnificient Bosphorus view accompanied by an Ristorante Italia background of Mehmet Gürs. HHHH Mon-Sat D. With a simple, grey-dominated decor and art-lined bed of beef. Or stop by in the evening and enjoy exclusive wine list and Mediterranean cuisine. www.istanbulyi.com. The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet live music along with their signature passion fruit Bar opens in the evenings, offering an entertaining walls, the menu here features traditional Italian Cad. 94, K:7, Taksim. T: 0212 293 5656. C4. dishes created by Chef Massimo Bottura. Tue-Sun cocktail. HHH Daily L, D & N. Sofa Hotel, Teşvikiye night with a DJ. Booking required. HHHH Mon-Sat L & D. www.osteriafrancescana.it Zorlu Center, Cad. 41, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 230 6666. A6. L & D. www.sunsetgrillbar.com. Adnan Saygun Cad. Zincirlikuyu. T: 0212 336 6600. Yol Sok. 2, Ulus. T: 0212 287 0357-58. Off map. Try Something Thai! ottoman Off map. Galliard, The The restaurant that introduced İstanbul to Thai cuisine, ÇokÇok’s architecture and Serving predominantly Spanish, French and Italian Topaz authentic décor creates the magical atmosphere of Asia. Boasting a wide selection of Asitane Restaurant cuisine, specialities at this contemporary elegant Chic restaurant offering traditional and modern lebanese delicious dishes, the service is fantastic, and a lounge bar with Chillout and World Music Specializing in Ottoman Court cuisine, this is an restaurant include homemade pastas, plus their Turkish/Mediterranean cuisine. The traditional exciting venue with a menu based on the 1539 Al Bushra special bread with , raisins and wine. Turkish menu includes yuvarlama soup and chard completes a great evening out. ‘Book of Feasts’. The menu offers specialties like Nestled on the 9th flor of Hilton İstanbul, Al Bushra Tue-Sat L, D & N. Sun & Mon L & D. stuffed with meat and bulgur; the modern menu Meşrutiyet Cad. 51, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 292 6496. chestnut soup, shrimp-stuffed calamari, hassa promises a delightful and unforgettable dining www.thegalliard.com. Nispetiye Cad. 104, Etiler. features roasted cheek of beef, celeriac puree, www.cokcok.com.tr. börek, kırma chicken kebab, sea bass biryan and experience featuring authentic Lebanese dishes T: 444 0 233. Off map. crème brulée with foie gras and sweet marsala saffron-scented for dessert. HHH Daily L & D.

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The Market @ Bosphorus Karaköy Lokantası eggplant and with are some Paintings by famous artists exhibited in the Minimalist design meets classic Turkish and world Located across from the customs house, this of the must-try offerings. HH Mon-Sat L & D. entrance welcome guests into this elegant venue. cuisine, with classic meats, steaks and burgers, plus restaurant looks like a French bistro from the www.lokantayeni.com. Kumbaracı Yokuşu 66, HHH Daily L&D. www.borsa.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. foie gras and a selection of seafood. Daily B, outside, but the Ottoman style interior with its Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 2550. C5. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, Sarıyer. L & D. HHH Kuruçeşme Mah. Muallim Naci Cad. 56, turquoise tiles and wrought iron railings gives T: 0212 345 5333. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Zeyrekhane Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 257 4111. A9. the feel of a warm, welcoming tavern. Specialities include mezes like mashed broad beans and Near the Zeyrek mosque, originally part of a Core Grill & Bar Steak N More Istan’bull smoked octopus, plus skewered lamb and fish monastary, and entered through old wooden Radisson Blu Hotel, İstanbul Asia’s restaurant Synonymous with its chef Fikret Özdemir (p. 4), this pastrami. HHH Daily L & D. Kemankeş Cad. 37/A, houses, this restaurant offers a breathtaking view of is bright, relaxed and friendly. Ingredients from restaurant concentrates mostly on meat and fish. various cuisines blend harmoniously with Turkish Karaköy. T: 0212 292 4455. D5. Süleymaniye Mosque, the Blue Mosque and other All dishes are made from 100% Turkish meat, plus historic landmarks from its terrace. The Turkish dishes, with the chef’s specialties including chicken its local cheese and wines. Try the piri piri shrimp, Ma’na cuisine is complemented by a warm and nostalgic schnitzel with kadayıf pastry and their Core kebab. lamb shanks, and künefe for dessert. HHH Daily L A nostalgic venue with a meyhane atmosphere, interior filled with original paintings, imperial HH Daily L & D. www.radissonblu.com. & D. www.radissonblu.com. Radisson Blu Hotel, serving Turkish delicacies with Turkish semi- edicts, quilted turbans, calligraphy and ornate tiles, Radisson Blu Hotel, İstanbul Asia, Yakut Cad. İstanbul Şişli, 19 Mayıs Cad. 12, Şişli. classical music in the background. The impressive all originals.www.zeyrekhane.com. HHH Ataşehir. T: 0216 579 1100. Off map. T: 0212 375 0000. Off map. rakı menu offers 33 different varieties. As in any Tue-Sun B, L & D. Zeyrek Mah. Dai Pera meyhane, the mezes reign supreme; they also serve İbadethane Arkası Sok. 10, Zeyrek, Fatih. a very good kadayıf pastry for dessert. Blending İstanbul’s vast history of Balkan, T: 0212 532 2778. D3. thaı HHH Mon-Sat L&D. Kemankeş Mah. Fransız Geçidi Rumelian, Albanian, Jewish and Armenian elements with a modern vision, the venue offers 53/8, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 0993. D5. ÇokÇok Thai Restaurant & Bar TURKISH (MODERN) traditional İstanbul flavours including white bean Rich authentic Thai menu in a sophisticated Raika stew with meat, Albanian-style liver, baked mantı DERALİYE setting. Created by an award-winning female Thai The immensely varied cuisine of Anatolia is Boğaziçi Borsa and quince dessert. HH Mon-Thu 9am-2am. Divanyolu Cad. Alemdar Mah. Ticarethane Sok. 10, Sultanahmet. chef, designed by renowned Singaporean architect served in an innovative presentation, with strong A classic in İstanbul dining, this restaurant’s Fri&Sat 9am-4am. Sun 10am-2am. Yeni Çarşı Cad. T: 0212 520 7778. Kay Ngee Tan, and managed by a London-trained emphasis of seasonal ingredients. Located on updated menus capture the flavours of Turkish 54, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 8099. C5. management team. HHH Daily L & D. the terrace floor of The Marmara Taksim, and cuisine with a Western twist. The result is stunning. www.cokcok.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 51, Tepebaşı. boasting a panoramic view of the city, the bar with Paintings by famous artists exhibited in the Divan Lokanta Divan Lokanta creates an innovative menu by www.asitanerestaurant.com. Kariye Camii Sok. 6, T: 0212 292 6496. C4. its magnificent view is the perfect spot for early entrance welcome guests into this elegant venue. sPECIAL SPOTS evening get-togethers. HHHH Daily L, D & N. HHH Daily L & D. www.borsa.com. combining the best of Turkish and Mediterranean Edirnekapı. T: 0212 635 7997. C2. Pera Thai The Marmara Taksim Hotel, 20/F, Taksim. Lütfi Kırdar Convention & Exhibition Centre, dining, plus Divan’s signature dishes. The Mahalle Outstanding presentation of Thai cuisine, which copper-leaf bar and ceiling-hung glass sculptures Deraliye Restaurant T: 0212 2433773. C5. Harbiye. T: 0212 232 4201. Located on the top floor of City’s Nişantaşı A6. This restaurant serves the finest that Ottoman has risen to prominence in recent years. Jazz and shimmering golden red set the tone in an inviting shopping centre, Mahalle offers a variety of ethnic music tunes provide a smooth ambiance for Refik Restaurant cuisine has to offer, very close to the Basilica Borsa and elegant atmosphere, with countless vintage services under one roof from a butcher to a flower dinners. Original flavours and exotic atmosphere One of the best taverns in town for 65 years, HHH Cistern and Topkapı Palace. Try the stuffed A classic in İstanbul dining, this restaurant’s wines in illuminated racks. Daily L & D. shop, greengrocer, bookstore and coffee shop. from Thailand brought to guests in a simple this spot is an İstanbul classic with its congenial updated menus capture the flavours of Turkish www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, Asker Ocağı vine leaves with sour cherries, lamb neck with There’s something for every need and occasion. interior decorated with authentic objects. Mon-Sat atmosphere. Pastırma in paper, ‘Albanian style’ cuisine with a Western twist. The result is stunning. Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. prunes, and almond halva dusted with powdered B6. Daily 10am-10pm. www.citysnisantasi.com. L & D. HHH www.perathai.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. fried diced liver, and lamb roulade are just a few of sugar. Daily L & D. www.deraliyerestaurant.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, Nişantaşı. 74/A,Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 5726. C4. its delightful specialities. HHH Mon-Sat D. Divanyolu Cad. Alemdar Mah. Ticarethane Sok. 10, T: 0212 373 3333. A6. www.refikrestaurant.com. Asmalımescit Cad. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 520 7778. F4. Sofyalı Sok. 6, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2834. C4. Trump Cadde TURKISH Matbah Located on the terrace floor of Trump Towers Seasons Offering authentic specialities from Ottoman Shopping Centre, this is home to event spaces plus Bir Tat Et Lokantası Spacious antique-themed interior surrounded Palace cuisine in an historical setting, Matbah in brands including Limonata, Bali Bey, Nezih Kebap, This warm and inviting spot serves all types of by glass. Seasons Restaurant serves Turkish the Historical Peninsula is surrounded by iconic Rumi , Fiorucci, PapaBubble and Plus Turkish cuisine. Its menu is especially famous for its specialities featuring local products, inc Braised buildings like Topkapı Palace and Hagia Sophia. Kitchen. It’s an ‘avenue with a view’ which creates offal including , liver and sweetbreads. Artichoke, Hengel Ravioli, cold cress-nettle soup HHH Daily B, L&D. www.matbahrestaurant.com. the carefree spirit of the street. Daily L & D. Kalfa Çeşme Sok. 16, Koşuyolu. and puff pastry with lamb ragout. HHHH Daily B, Caferiye Sok. 6/1, Sultanahmet. Karkuyusu Sok. Şişli. T: 0212 3487867. Off map. T: 0216 553 6664. Off map. L & D, Sunday brunch. www.fourseasons.com. Tevfikhane Sok. 1, Four Seasons Sultanahmet T: 0212 514 6151. F4. Casita Hotel, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 402 3000. Very popular for its mantı, a Turkish dumpling E5. Tuğra Restaurant steakhouse served with yoghurt, and tripe soup, Casita also Sofyalı 9 A favourite of gourmets, this venue serves classical Maçka Günaydın Et Restaurant offers temptations like Bodrum’s famous çökertme Turkish and Greek tunes provide the background to Ottoman dishes accompanied by live Turkish With a wood-dominated, historic feel, this spot kebab, mushroom casserole and “paper warm conversation, while at least 25 mezes tempt classical music in an authentic atmosphere on the serves a variety of kebabs and meats. Try the doll” dessert. This restaurant is open 24 hours the taste buds - from classics like chard stuffed waterfront. HHHH Daily D. smoked meat platter, succulent steaks and the daily. HH Daily L&D. www.casita.com.tr. Atiye Sok. with mince meat, çoban , fincan pastry www.kempinski-istanbul.com. Çırağan Cad. 32, hand-churned HHH Daily L & D. 3, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 327 8293. A6. and ‘Albanian style’ diced fried liver, to seafood Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul, Beşiktaş. www.gunaydinet.com. Swissôtel the Bosphorus, delicacies like mussels in red wine sauce, grilled T: 0212 258 3377. Bayıldım Cad. 2, Maçka. T: 0212 258 1203. B7. Çintemani Restaurant B8. shrimp and octopus. Daily L, D&N. Named after one of the most important motifs in www.sofyali.com.tr. Asmalımescit Cad. Sofyalı Sok. N Burger traditional Ottoman art, this venue is open all day. 9, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 3810. C4. PUB This cosy restaurant’s menu includes the Nusret Menu inspired by the most distinguished dishes of Burger, Lokum Burger and Sucuklu Burger, along the Mediterranean and Ottoman Court cuisines. Yanyalı Fehmi Divan Pub Elmadağ with a selection of köfte and meats. The tulum HHHH Daily B, L & D. Daily 6:30am-11pm. This historic restaurant serves a variety of Ottoman The extensive and tempting menu includes a range cheese salad and baklava are some of its most www.ritzcarlton.com. The Ritz-Carlton, İstanbul, and Turkish soups, braised dishes and pilafs. of local specialties, including döner kebab. Daily B popular dishes. Daily L & D. www.d-ream.com.tr. Elmadağ, Şişli. T: 0212 334 4188. Off map. Popular dishes include pinto bean , lamb Abdi Ipekçi Cad. 57/A, Reasürans Çarşısı, Nişantaşı. A warm and inviting & L & D. www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, Asker stew, and a special Ottoman palace T: 0212 231 2470-71. Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. B6. A6. Günaydın dessert. Mon-Sat L & D. www.fehmilokantasi.com This simply-decorated two-storey restaurant, with meeting spot Nusr-Et Yağlıkçı İsmail Sok. 1, Kadıköy. T: 0216 336 3333. Cantinery, located in the popular İstanbul shopping mall Zorlu Center, offers selections Ph Pub a spacious garden, serves delicious kebabs and In keeping with Nusret’s decor, meats are brought Off map. A wide variety of appetizer buffets, grills and other grilled meats. The mainstays of the menu from international cuisine prepared with its own unique style. Combining the spirit of on teak planks and served on white porcelain. The desserts are served from 11:30am to 8:30pm in PH are the fındık (an appetizer-sized version Yeni Lokanta a cafeteria and bistro, Cantinery works with seasonal specialities. Some of the must-try restaurant focuses on meat, salads and wine; meats pub on the lobby floor. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. of the familiar ‘Turkish pizza’), stuffed köfte and Rustical, and decorated simply with tiles, trees are cooked to order. HHH Daily L & D. Nispetiye dishes include the lobster burger, sand smelt tempura plus their outstanding pizzas. www.theplazahotel.com.tr. Barbaros Bulvarı 165, chopped kebabs, including their special pistachio and flowers, Yeni Lokanta serves traditional dishes Cad. 87, Etiler. T: 0212 358 3022. Off map. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu. T: 0212 353 6365 The Plaza Hotel İstanbul, Balmumcu, Beşiktaş. kebab. HHH Daily L&D. Kazım Özalp Cad. 58, made with ingredients from Anatolia. The bulgur T: 0212 370 2020. A8. Şaşkınbakkal. T: 0216 417 9209. Off map. salad with sour cherries, mantı filled with dried

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FerahFeza seating over 1000, Darüzziyafe is an ideal place Vaniköy Cad. 12, Vaniköy, Üsküdar. With décor alluding to the local artisan tradition, to experience select Turkish dishes along with T: 0216 460 0304. Off map. this new venue boasts two breezy terraces delicious sherbets and desserts. HH Daily L & overlooking Galata Tower and the Historic D. www.daruzziyafe.com.tr. Şifahane Cad. 4, Kaşıbeyaz Bophorus Don’t be misled by its thoroughly modern 21st- Peninsula. Favourites on the menu include salmon Süleymaniye. T: 0212 511 8414. E3. in vine leaves with tahini sauce, and bean casserole century decor; this restaurant serves traditional with grilled octopus. HHH Daily B, L, D & N. Develi Turkish cuisine. Dominated by meat and kebabs, www.ferahfeza-ist.com. Kemankeş Cad. 31/5, Located on legendary Kalamış Bay, Develi offers the menu also features home-style dishes and a a delightful atmosphere and stylish decor. Fine Karaköy. T: 0212 243 5154-55. D5. variety of sautéed and fried dishes. Daily L & D. Gaziantep and Turkish specialties include Ali Nazik www.kasibeyaz.com.tr Köybaşı Cad. 10, Yeniköy. Gile Restaurant kebab, küşneme, maş piyazı, , and T: 0212 299 5000. Off map. Young chefs Cihan Kıpçak and Üryan Doğmuş add Antep style stuffed dried . HHH a contemporary edge to familiar flavours, creating Daily L & D. www.develikebap.com. Konyalı Kanyon new flavours such as filet mignon with fenugreek, Münir Nurettin Selçuk Cad. Kalamış Marina, Konyalı is run by the fourth generation of the 24-hour lamb shank, and Saroz shrimp grilled over Kadıköy. T: 0216 418 9400. Off map. family, Mehmet Eren Doğanbey. Exclusive concept red pine. HHH Daily L & D. and ambiance, the fine menu and luxurious www.gilerestaurant.com. Şair Nedim Cad. Feriye Lokantası presentation on gold-plated service all add up to Akaretler, Sıra Evler B Blok. 14, Akaretler. Historical building that housed a police station a a memorable meal. HH Daily L & D. century ago. Menu offers Turkish and Ottoman T: 0212 327 1166. A7/B7. www.konyalilokantasi.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, cuisines, with excellent Bosphorus views and stylish Kanyon Shopping Centre, Levent. Münferit ambiance. Specialities include sauteed lamb T: 0212 353 0450. Shopping Centre Map (p.38). This chic, modern tavern-style restaurant is right at fillet and pumpkin dessert. Heated terrace in the entrance of the Galata Residence. The menu winter. HHHH Daily L & D. www.feriye.com. Konyalı Lokantası Topkapı Sarayı offers a combination of traditional and modern Çırağan Cad. 40, Ortaköy. T: 0212 227 2216. Once home to the Ottoman Sultans, Topkapı flavours, including marinated sea bass, hot grilled Off map. Palace now offers its unparalleled Bosphorus view shrimp on humus, black couscous with mussels, to diners. Enjoy the views and historical ambiance poached sea bass with clams, and shredded cheek Hacı Abdullah Lokantası while savouring fine Turkish cuisine. Specialties of beef with orzo. HHH Mon-Sat D. Yeni Çarşı Cad. A long-established restaurant with a 121-year include stuffed lamb, hünkar beğendi, islim kebabı history, ensuring continuity of Ottoman culinary 19, Taksim. T: 0212 252 5067. C5. and a rich selection of desserts. HHH Wed-Mon L & tradition, serves specialities including lamb-based D. www.konyalilokantasi.com. Topkapı Palace. Okka meat dishes as well as soups and pilafs. T: 0212 513 9696. E5. With turquoise ceramic columns and antique HH Daily L & D. www.haciabdullah.com.tr. diamond-cut mirrors, Okka is definitely not your Atıf Yılmaz Cad. 9/A, Taksim. T: 0212 293 8561. C5. Köşebaşı usual kebab restaurant. A welcoming atmosphere This internationally-recognized chain restaurant Hamdi Et Lokantası combines with a unique selection of mezes and offers meat dishes from Adana and Tarsus region A classic İstanbul dining experience, this kebab. Highly recommended are the beef ribs, based on traditional recipes. The gavurdağı Toros, restaurant’s glass-covered terrace offers a lamb küşneme (the finest cut of meat for kebab), Abaganos fındık lahmacun, şaşlık kebab and panoramic view of the city. With more than 40 steaks and the wonderfully varied meze plate. semolina halvah are especially good. Playground kebabs on the menu; plum kebab and poppy seed HHH Daily L & D. www.wistanbul.com.tr. available for the kids. HH Daily L & D. kebab are highly recommended. HHH Daily L&D. W İstanbul, Süleyman Seba Cad. 22, 3/F, Akaretler. www.kosebasi.com. Bronz Sok. 5, Maçka, T: 0212 381 2189. www.hamdirestorant.com.tr. Tahmis Cad. B7. T: 0212 230 3868. A6. Kalçın Sok. 11, Eminönü. T: 0212 512 5424. D4. Rocca Mabeyin Havuzlu Lokanta Offering classic Turkish and Mediterranean Located in the historical Mabeyinci Manor. Enjoy Experience five centuries of history in this specialities with a modern presentation in three traditional Turkish cuisine in an exquisite setting. restaurant nestled in the Grand Bazaar, featuring menus: From the Sea, From the Land and From the Ideal choice for those who want to combine history exquisite Ottoman architecture. Specialties among Marketplace. Dishes include lamb tartar, lakerda with the distinct flavours of southeastern Turkish its home-style dishes include mashed eggplant, (salt-cured bonito) and the chef’s special desserts. cuisine in a quiet, peaceful atmosphere. HHH Daily B, L & D. HHH www.raffles-tr.com Raffles roasted lamb and Abant-style kebab. HH Mon-Sat Daily L & D. www.mabeyin.com. Eski Kısıklı Cad. 7, İstanbul, Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu. L. www.havuzlurestaurant.com. Gani Çelebi Sok. 3, Kapalıçarşı, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 3346. Kısıklı. T: 0216 422 5580. Off map. T: 0212 924 0200. Off map. E4. Nar Lokanta Surplus Hünkar Nişantaşı With its menu of traditional Turkish and Ottoman With views of both the historic peninsula and Pera, Cosy, spacious, serving traditional Turkish dishes specialities, Nar Lokanta celebrates the Ottoman this restaurant serves fine Turkish cuisine. Must-try and desserts. Popular choices include wrapped culinary tradition. Outstanding dishes include dishes include the roast lamb, satır köftesi and lamb liver, tandoori lamb stew and lamb casserole with stuffed köfte, palace-style mantı, and şekerpare taraklık. HHH www.surplus.com.tr. yoghurt; for a truly Turkish dining experience with figs and poppyseeds.HHH Mon-Sat L & D. Ragıp Gümüş Cad. 54, Kat:3-4, Eminönü. try the lamb’s trotter soup, hünkar beğendi and HH www.narlokantasi.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 41, K:5, T: 0212 520 1002. E5. semolina halvah. Daily L & D. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 21, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 4665. A6. Çemberlitaş. T: 0212 522 2800. E4. TURKISH (tradıtıonal) Kanaat Lokantası Pandeli Kanaat offers a stunning menu of 100-120 dishes An İstanbul classic located in the Egyptian Market, Beyti prepared daily including meat dishes, its walls are covered with glamorous İznik tiles. Frequented by kings, prime ministers, celebrities dishes, desserts, ice creams and yoghurt. With its Turkish delicacies, Pandeli is an ideal stop and high society, this restaurant enjoys worldwide No alcohol. HH Daily L & D. Daily 6:30pm-11:30pm. during a visit to the old city and the markets. fame for its meat dishes. An indisputable master of www.kanaatlokantasi.com.tr. Selmanipak Cad. 9, HH Daily L. www.pandeli.com.tr. Mısır Çarşısı 1, meat cookery with a dish named after him, owner Üsküdar. T: 0216 341 5444. D8. Eminönü. T: 0212 527 3909. E5. Beyti Güler handpicks the ingredients. Its chorcoal Safran grilled meats are divine. HHH Tue-Sun L & D. Kandilli Borsa Multi-award winning venue with a magnificent www.beyti.com. Orman Sok. 8, Florya. Excellent ambiance in the garden of the historical Adile Sultan Palace on a hilltop overlooking a Bosphorus view matched by a Turkish and T: 0212 663 2991. Off map. dazzling Bosphorus view. Top Ottoman palace Ottoman-themed menu and interior. Live classical Darüzziyafe dishes and traditional Turkish cuisine, the menu Turkish music every Wed and Fri. HHH Daily D. Superb Turkish cuisine, with a lengthy menu also includes surprising blends of Mediterranean, istanbul.intercontinental.com.tr. Intercontinental reflecting centuries of Turkish dining traditions. and Far Eastern cuisines. HHH Daily L & D. İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. Located in the Süleymaniye complex and www.borsarestaurant.com. Adile Sultan Sarayı, T: 0212 368 4444. B6.

64 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 ESSENTIALS ESSENTIALS USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency, Medical Emergency Ambulance Public. Open 24 hours. T: 112. Medline Private ambulance service. Open 24 hours. T: 0212 331 2000-444 1212. American Hospital Vehbi Koç Foundation American Hospital is a foundation-owned, acute general care hospital. Each year the Hospital serves 150.000 patients, providing a comprehensive array of primary care and specialty services. The medical staff includes over 500 active and visiting physicians. The Hospital is accredited by the Joint Commission International. www.amerikanhastanesi.org. Güzelbahçe Sok. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 444 3777. Medamerican Outpatient Clinic MedAmerican Outpatient Clinic, located on the Asian side of İstanbul, is an outpatient clinic of the American Hospital. The clinic offers a wide array of medical, surgical, and ancillary health care services. www.medamerikan.com. Cemil Topuzlu Cad. 46 Çiftehavuzlar. T: 0216 468 2555.

Emergency, Dental Byomed Private medical centre that puts patient satisfaction first and approaches patients with empathy, offering services with a live support system. www.byomed.com.tr. ByOtell, Kozyatağı Sarı Kanarya Sok. 14. T: 0216 571 6140. Ask The Concierge Dentistanbul First and only dedicated dental hospital in Turkey. Specialised and experienced staff, fully equipped This month we speak with concierge Ece Akar operating room, ambulance and bed services. www.dentistanbul.com.tr. Yıldız Cad. 71, Beşiktaş. from the newly-opened Raffles İstanbul. services provider Havataş also runs buses to and T: 0212 444 0347. Gezidükkanları 7, Taksim. T: 0212 444 2538. airports from Kozyatağı and Taksim. Atlasjet Pharmacies İstanbul has two major international airports; one Havataş Call Center T: 0212 444 0487. www.atlasjet.com. T: 0212 444 3387. Pharmacies are open during day until 7:30pm. on the European side and the other on the Asian www.havas.com.tr. ow could you describe İstanbul is excellent. For Ottoman palace cuisine, Every day, a different pharmacy remains open British Airways side. Sabiha Gökçen Airport T: 0216 585 5000. www.sabihagokcen.aero. as a city? İstanbul is an exciting, I love Asitane, and if you want a romantic for 24 hours as a night pharmacy in every www.britishairways.com.tr. Maslak Mah. Bilim Sok. Atatürk Airport neighbourhood. The names of the night bustling centre of history, culture, dinner, try Tapasuma, which serves 5, K:15, Şişli. T: 0212 367 9292. The first and largest of İstanbul’s two airports LOST LUGGAGE OFFICE pharmacies are displayed on the window of H Sabiha Ökçen Airport: International Terminal Lost this is situated 24km west of the city centre, on fashion and finance. I can compare İstanbul flavours from all over the world. When my every pharmacy. Pharmacists can check blood Emirates the European side. With both international and Luggage Office T: 0216 588 8802. Domestic to a woman, with completely different customers want fish, I recommend Lacivert, pressure, dress minor wounds and provide www.emirates.com. Şişli Plaza, 19 Mayıs Cad. 5/7, domestic flights operating round the clock, it Terminal Lost Luggage Office T: 0216 588 8650. moods day and night, at sunrise and which offers a private boat service as well. recommendations on medical assistance. A Blok K:8, Şişli. T: 0212 315 4545. boasts fully equipped emergency health services. www.treczane.com. sunset. Where would you recommend for Gulf Air The airport is accessible by metro; however, a taxi Which cultural attractions would you shopping? It’s always fun to shop in Useful Numbers www.gulfair.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. 131, Harbiye. is recommended, particularly if carrying heavy AIRPORT TRANSFER T: 0212 231 3450. recommend? I first recommend my guests Nişantaşı, where you can find many İstanbul Directory, 11811. luggage. Regular shuttle buses run by ground Havataş: Offers shuttle services to and from the services provider Havataş approx every 30 mins visit Topkapı Palace, the Blue Mosque and different world brand stores together. Turkcell Directory, 11832. KLM airport every half hour between Atatürk Airport- depart to and from Taksim, stopping at Aksaray, Avea Directory, 11855. www.klm.com.tr. Emirhan Cad. 145, Atakule A Blok Taksim and Sabiha Gökcen Airport-Kadıköy / Hagia Sophia. Then they should definitely And Çukurcuma is really hopping now; Etiler and Bakırköy. Check for schedule. Vodafone Directory, 11842. K:14, Dikilitaş, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 310 1900. Sabiha Gökcen Airport-Taksim. visit Süleymaniye Mosque, Kariye Museum, you can find the boutiques of young Same Area Calls, just the 7 digit number. Havaş Call Center T: 0212 444 0487. www.havatas.com.tr. T: 444 44 36. Lufthansa Hagia Eirini and the Greek Orthodox designers, offering contemporary designs Area Codes in İstanbul, Europen Side: 212, www.havas.com.tr. Patriarchate in Fener. that are always in style. Asian Side: 216. www.lufthansa.com.tr. Atatürk Airport Enq T: 0212 463 3000. www.ataturkairport.com. From Area to Area, 0+area code+number Atatürk Airport International Terminal, Yeşilköy. Tell us some of your favourite lesser- GETTING AROUND International T: 0212 354 8888. , 0+0+ country code+area LOST LUGGAGE OFFICE Buses known spots. For me, some of the top ways code+number. Atatürk Airport: TAV-(International and Domestic Pegasus Airlines The City buses and Bus Rapid Transit systems are to discover İstanbul would be to take a Terminals Lost Luggage Office) T: 0212 465 3000. www.flypgs.com. T: 0212 444 0737. run by the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality. walk in the unspoiled streets of Kuzguncuk; airLINEs Singapore Airlines Sabiha Gökçen Airport Payment is with the İstanbul Kart – an electronic see woodwork by Sultan Abdülhamit in Located on the Asian side, Sabiha Gökçen Airport card purchased for a deposit fee at sales points. Air France www.singaporeair.com. EGS Business Park Plazaları is 40km from Kadıköy, 12km from Pendik and 50km Valid on buses, trams, metro and ferries, it is easily Beylerbeyi Palace; and view the collection www.airfrance.com.tr. B2, K:8, 278, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 463 1800. from Taksim. A smaller airport, this has some charged at machines located in many stations, and of Turkish painters in the serene Sakıp Emirhan Cad. 145 Atakule A Blok Dikilitaş, Beşiktaş. Turkish Airlines (THY) international flights but mainly domestic flights, provides half-price transfers. Ticket prices vary T: 0212 310 1919. Sabancı Museum. www.turkishairlines.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. plus all the budget airlines. Transport to and from according to distance. www.iett.gov.tr. How about restaurants in İstanbul? Anadolu Jet Gezidükkanları 7, Taksim. the airport include city buses, and taxis. As the Information Line T: 0800 211 6068, For Turkish dishes, Rocca in our own hotel www.anadolujet.com.tr. Cumhuriyet Cad. T: 0212 444 0849. airport is far away from central locations, ground Headquarters T: 0212 245 0720.

66 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 67 ESSENTIALS ESSENTIALS

Ferries Cemal Reşit Rey Konser Salonu Altı, Harbiye. elegance of Swissôtel to the Bosphorus as well TOURISM polıce Greece, www.greekembassy.org.tr. Turnacıbacı City ferries operate out from Sirkeci, Eminönü with its fine decor and food service. Brunch, lunch T: 0212 444 9977. Sok. 32, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 393 8290. Yerebatan Cad. 6, Sultanahmet. and Karaköy piers all day long to the Bosphorus, and dinner served during the tours. Rentel T: 0212 527 4503. the Asian side, and Princess Islands. T: 0212 326 1100 ext. 8272. Germany, www.germanembassyank.com. Visit www.sehirhatlari.com.tr. for the latest Providing a top-notch car rental service to İsmet İnönü Cad. 16/18, Gümüşsuyu. updated timetables. T: 0212 444 1851. Sea Taxis İstanbul’s visitors with its expert rental staff. V.I.P. T: 0212 334 6100. www.deniztaksi.com.tr. T: 0212 444 4498. Dependable, well-equipped luxury car fleet, Metro chauffeured vehicles, rental and VIP transfer BOSPHORUS TOURS India, www.indembassy.org.tr. Cumhuriyet Cad. The underground railway in Istanbul has 4 Su Samuru services, with efficient, quality service. 18/7, Dörtler Apt. Elmadağ. T: 0212 296 2131. European lines (3 in service, all will be extended; With their specially built boats and a well-trained www.rentel.com.tr. Irmak Cad. Kaşkaval Sok. 21, Private Bosphorus Yacht Tours Italy, www.consistanbul.esteri.it. Boğazkesen 1 under construction); 2 Asian lines (1 in service, team of captains, this sea taxi gives 24-hour service Beyoğlu. T: 0212 444 1 434 These VIP yachts will give you a Bosphorus Cad. Tom Tom Kaptan Sok. 15, Tophane, Beyoğlu. will be extended; 1 under construction), with 65 year round. www.su-samuru.com. experience like no other. Recommended by Istanbul’s finest hotels including the Swiss Hotel, T: 0212 252 5437. stations inservice. www.istanbul-ulasim.com.tr. T: 0533 777 7718. sıghtseeıng Four Seasons, The Ritz Carlton and more, our M1-Aksaray-Atatürk International Airport Japan, Büyükdere Cad. 209, Tekfen Tower K:10, 4. Big Bus Tours yachts will give you all the comforts of a 5-star M1A: Aksaray, Emniyet/Fatih, Ulubatlı/Topkapı, HELI SERVICES Levent. T: 0212 317 4600. Big Bus Tours provides the perfect introduction hotel as you enjoy the beauty of the Bosphorus. Bayrampaşa-Maltepe, Sağmacılar, Kartaltepe/ Kaan Air to İstanbul, a city that straddles two continents: A special occasion in one of our yachts will go Korea, Kaptanpaşa Mah. Piyale Paşa Bulvarı, Kocatepe, Otogar, Esenler, Terazidere, Kaan Air offers helicopter sales, rentals, VIP Europe and Asia. This carefully designed tour from special to unforgettable. Orta Doğu Plaza K:19, Okmeydanı, Şişli. Davutpaşa/Yıldız Teknik Üniversitesi, Merter, transportation and air taxi services. takes people to the major landmarks and historic www.kiraliktekneler.com. Arnavutköy Mah. T: 0212 368 8398. Zeytinburnu, Bakırköy-İncirli, Bahçelievler, Ataköy- Kemerburgaz Cad. Suvatlar Sok. 1, Ayazağa . sites. www.bigbustours.com. Dulkadiroğulları Sok. 22, Beşiktaş. Şirinevler, Yenibosna, DTM/İstanbul Fair Center, T: 0532 111 9992 - 93. www.kaanair.com Bindirdirek Mah. Dostluk Yurdu Sok. Yeşil Apt. 1/5, T: 0212 251 5272. Malaysia, Halaskargazi Cad. 150, Çankaya Apt. Airport Sultanahmet. T:0212 283 1396. K:4, D:7, Şişli. T: 0212 247 1728. M1B-Esenler, Menderes, Üçyüzlü, Bağcılar, Kirazlı offıce space rental YACHT Russia, www.turkey.mid.ru. İstiklal Cad. 219, M2-Yenikapı-Hacıosman Taxis SPECIAL TOURS Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 5101. Sürmeli Business Floor & Lounge M/Y Halas 71 Yenikapı, Vezneciler, Haliç, Şişhane, Taksim, The bright yellow taxis are available around the Offers guests a comfortable working environment İstanbul Walks The M/Y Halas, featuring luxury yacht service and Osmanbey, Şişli/Mecidiyeköy, Gayrettepe, Levent, clock, and are best hailed on the street. It is best Saudi Arabia, Konaklar Mah. Çamlık Cad. with breakfast and food service throughout the The only travel agency which organises more rich decor from Haremlique, offers personalized 4.Levent, Sanayi, İTÜ Ayazağa, Atatürk Oto Sanayi, to avoid taxis waiting outside major tourist venues Akasyalı Sok. 6, 4. Levent. T: 0212 281 9140. day, a 360° panoramic view of İstanbul, wireless than 40 İstanbul tours in English, inc the Istanbul food service all day long. www.myhalas.com. Darüşşafaka, Hacıosman and hotels. Fares should always run on the meter, internet, computers, and a meeting room free of Classic, Bosphorus, Dolmabahçe Palace, the Tokmak Burnu, İstinye. T: 0549 334 2104. South Africa, www.southafrica.org.tr. M3-Başakşehir with the same tariff now for both day and night. charge for one hour. Daily 7am-11pm. Jewish Quarter, Blue Mosque Area, Bosphorus Alarko Holding A.Ş. Muallim Naci Cad. 69, Metrokent, Başak Konutları, Siteler, Turgut Özal, Ensure the meter is running as soon as you get in, www.sürmelihotels.com. Prof. Dr. Bülent Tarcan Cruise, Walk in Asia and much more. Ortaköy. T: 0212 227 5200. İkitelli, Sanayi, Olimpiyat Ziya Gökalp Mah, İstoç, and refuse to take a journey where the driver tries consulates Sok. 3, Gayrettepe. T: 0212 272 1161. www.istanbulwalks.com. Mahmutbey, Yeni Mahalle, Kirazlı to agree a price in advance. Spain, Karanfil Aralığı Sok. 16, 1. Levent. Şifahamamı Sok. 1, K:1, Sultanahmet. Argentina, Süzer Plaza, Askerocağı Cad. 9, K: 16, These are a safe mode of transport day and night. T: 0212 270 7410. TRAMS AND FUNICULARS Windowist T: 0212 516 6300-01. Windowist raises the bar on the instant office 34367, Elmadağ, Şişli. T: 0212 243 1170. Istanbul is served by three separate tramway Train Switzerland, Büyükdere Cad. 173, 1. Levent concept with full office services 24/7, offering systems. The Asian side has a heritage tramline, Plaza A Blok K:3, Levent. T: 0212 283 1282. SİRKECİ TRAIN STATION TOURISM Azerbaijan, Sümbül Sok. 17/1, Levent. whereas the European side has both a heritage smart, innovative solutions in İstanbul’s financial TCDD station located on the European side. T: 0212 325 8042. tramline and a modern tram system. Istanbul is and residential centre of Maslak. City Tourim and Culture Directorate United Arab Emirates, Visitors may buy tickers at the counter here for all also served by two underground funicular rail- www.windowist.com. Eski Büyükdere Cad. 26, Maslak. www.istanbulkulturturizm.gov.tr. Main Office, Alay China, www.chinaembassy.org.tr. Kireçburnu www.uaeconsulate.com.tr. destinations to Europe and elsewhere in Turkey. ways, of very different ages and styles. T: 0212 214 7000. Köşkü, Gülhane Parkı içi, Eminönü. Mah. Mısırlı Cad. Memduhpaşa Yalısı 6/8, Sarıyer. Büyükdere Cad. Meşeli Sok. 11, 4. Levent. Trains to anatolian Turkey depart from Haydarpaşa T: 0212 528 6821. Branch, At Meydanı 31, T: 0212 299 2634. T: 0212 317 9257. MARMARAY station near Kadıköy on the asian side. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 518 1800. A major transportation infrastructure project of For enquiries, www.tcdd.gov.tr. T: 0212 527 0050. Private İstanbul Egypt, Konaklar Mah. Akasyalı Sok. 26, 4. Levent. United Kingdom, www.britishembassy.org.tr. 76km-long commuter rail system, Marmaray’s Tourism Information Offices T: 0212 324 2133. Meşrutiyet Cad. 34, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. 13.6 km railway part is opened in Oct. 2014 and; Seabuses Tours Sultanahmet, At Meydanı, T: 0212 5181802 - T: 0212 334 6400. Finland, Yeni Çamlık Cad. Ayaz Sok. 5, 4. Levent. connecting European and Asian sides of Istanbul Seabuses operate on 19 lines, and serve 32 points. İstanbul Tour Studio 0212 5187454. Taksim, Hilton Hotel entrance, T: 0212 283 5737. USA, www.istanbul.usconsulate.gov. via a 1.4 km immersed tube tunnel beneath www.ido.com.tr. T: 0212 444 4436. Bringing new meaning to quality in city tours and Elmadağ, Taksim. T: 0212 233 0592. the Bosphorus. Marmaray joins the stations at İstinye Mah. Kaplıcalar Mevkii 2, İstinye. FAST FERRY LINES tour guides, the skilled İstanbul Tour Studio team Yeşilköy, Atatürk Airport, Yeşilköy. France, www.consulfrance-istanbul.org. İstiklal Yenikapı, Sirkeci and Kazlıçeşme in Europe with T: 0212 335 9000. Yenikapı-Bursa-Yenikapı • Yenikapı-Bandırma- takes a fresh, innovative approach to tourism with T: 0212 4653151 - 0212 4653547. Cad. 8, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 334 8730. the stations at Üskudar and Ayrılık Çeşmesi in Yenikapı • Yenikapı-Yalova-Yenikapı • Pendik- intriguing ways to see the city. Some of the most Asia, making it possible to cross from Old Istanbul Yalova-Pendik. popular choices are its photography, cuisine, in Europe to Üsküdar in Asia in a matter of cycling, sailboat and jewellery workshop tours. INTER-CITY SEABUS LINES minutes. www.marmaray.gov.tr Where İstanbul readers are entitled to a 10% Bosphorus Line: Beşiktaş-Kadıköy TRAIN HOURS discount with the special Z_VDUPO coupon. www.istanbultourstudio.com Halaskargazi Cad. 3, Ayrılık Çeşmesi-Kazlıçeşme PRINCES’ISLANDS SEABUS LINES Ayrılık Çeşmesi-Kazlıçeşme 6am-12am. Kabataş-Kınalı-Burgaz-Heybeli-Büyükada- K: 6 Harbiye. T: 0533 355 3049 Kazlıçeşme-Ayrılık Çeşmesi 6am-11:40pm. Bostancı. Ayrılık Çeşmesi-Kazlıçeşme RENT A CAR 6am-7am (10 min) BOSPHORUS TOURS 7am-10am(7min) Airport Tours Half- and full-day Bosphorus and Princes’ Islands 10am-4pm (10min) www.airport-tours.com. Atatürk Airport Tours. 4pm-8pm (7min) International Terminal, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 465 4550. 8pm-12am (10min) İdo Nostalgic Bosphorus Tours Avis FEES • Eminönü Dep. 10:35am - 1:35pm • Beşiktaş Dep. www.avis.com.tr. T: 444 2847. We let our customers enjoy the beauty of the and customer satisfaction with our unparalleled 10:50am - 1:50pm • Anadolu Kavağı Dep. 3pm - İstanbul Kart/Akbil electronic ticket Bosphorus to the fullest. We work with Turkey’s VIP Bosphorus Tour. In short, we love our work. 5pmT: 444 44 36. Budget and all others: elite agencies and companies as well as İstanbul’s We know that the Bosphorus is worth seeing and www.budget.com.tr. T: 444 4722. Full rate: 2,15 TL Student: 1,10 TL Disabled, Bosphorus Tours By Private Boats five-star hotels. Our portfolio also includes experiencing. The full beauty of the Bosphorus is 65 Years and over: Free of Charge Half-day tours on private boats. Historical venues Eurocity Rent A Car ultra-luxury yachts to meet our customers’ needs. hidden in the details, and the details are hidden in Transfer Fees: such as the Çırağan Palace and Beylerbeyi Palace www.eurocityrentacar.com. Atatürk Airport Den Den Yachts guarantees the finest conditions Den Den Yachts. Full rate: (1st transfer) 1,60 TL may also be included in the programme. International Arrivals Terminal, Yeşilköy. (2nd transfer) 1,50 TL www.plantours.com. T: 0212 234 7777. T: 0212 603 6266 - 68. (3rd, 4th and 5th transfers) 1,30TL Arnavutköy Mah. Dulkadiroğulları Sok. No:22 Beşiktaş /İstanbul Tel: +90212 251 52 72 Mobile: +90533 447 10 47 Student: (1st transfer) 0,45TL, Swissôtel Interlimousine www.kiraliktekneler.com • [email protected] • [email protected] (2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th transfers) 0,45TL Owned by the hotel, The İstanbul, extends the www.interlimousine.com.tr. Inter Kat Otoparkı,

68 WHERE İstanbul I OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 69 Central Istanbul Map

T: +90212 251 52 72 www.kiraliktekneler.com [email protected] [email protected] ∆ PRIVATE YACHT RENTAL [ WHERe IN Ista nbul] My Perfect Day

How would you describe İstanbul Where are your favourite places to eat? as a city? Turkish and Ottoman cuisines are part of a İstanbul is precious treasure. Even though it very special tradition. You’ll find the original has aged and its outward appearance has versions mostly in the ‘businessmen’s been marred, it remains one of the world’s restaurants’ (esnaf lokantaları). Yanyalı Fehmi most enchanting cities. It is one of the Lokantası in Kadıköy has especially good world’s oldest great cities, and combines kuru köfte and other meat dishes. Kebapçı elements of devilishness, disappointment and İskender, also in Kadıköy, also has very good attractiveness. meat.

Which İstanbul attractions do you find most impressive? Topkapı Palace, the centre of Ottoman life, with its artistic and Islamic works as well as its architecture, and the city’s great mosques like Sultanahmet and Süleymaniye.

Doç. Dr. Deniz Esemenli (Art Historian) Where do you recommend to go in the A graduate of Istanbul evenings? University’s department of Art İstanbul has a thriving meyhane culture. Meyhane in Asmalımescit like Yakup, Refik and What are the most interesting places History, art historian Dr. Deniz Gurme Boncuk; Safa in Yedikule and Madam to shop? Esemenli has taken part in Despina in Kurtuluş are some of the older İstanbul’s historic Grand Bazaar has some of the excavations throughout Turkey, meyhanes that remain faithful to the tradition finest quality products to be found anywhere and is currently a museum and great for an evening out. in the world, and its architecture and history are still very much present. But for more local specialist for Topkapı Palace How about galleries and museums? products, a visit to Eminönü’s old hans – former and the Turkish-Islamic Works İstanbul has truly become an arts destination inns now home to workshops and shops – Museum. Providing historical over the last few years. Some of my favourite make a really interesting experience. Büyük consulting for Turkish television venues include Art On, Rampa, Armaggan Valide Han, Büyük Yeni Han and Balkapanı Hanı Art&Design, Galerist, İstanbul Modern, the are some of the best. series, Egemenli also serves as Sakıp Sabancı Museum and the Pera Museum. a guide He kindly shared his thoughts about his city.

What are your favourite neighbourhoods? Zeyrek with its many old houses, some falling down and others restored; Kadıköy’s back streets, the Lonca neighbourhood behind Ayvansaray and the neighbourhoods on the eastern shores of the Bosphorus which have preserved their visual charm, are some of the city’s most beautiful spots. On the streets of Fener and Balat, you can see the cultures of İstanbul’s non-Muslim cultures.

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