Vol. XLV. No. 2. 25 Cents a Copy February, 1933

I fewl....2:4110-11 MID-PACIFIC MAGAZINE

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George Sakamaki, who, with his bride, recently sailed for Manchuria to fill a position with the Japanese government, has been appointed an Ambassador of Friendship by the Pan-Pacific Union. Both are citizens of Hawaii.

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• CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD . Volume XLV Number 2 „ CONTENTS FOR FEBRUARY, 1933 •1 •1 Art Section—Fiji, Tahiti, the Philippines, and the Maoris • of New Zealand. Government Photographs of Fiji and New Zealand 102 14 tl Maori Art 117 •, By Garnet S. Cabot . In the Benguet Hills, Philippine Islands 121 • By Bertha Shanks Chancy •

Fiji Sports 133 4.' By Fay Sharp g The Fleshpots of Peru in General and Lima in Particular - 135 By Alexander Hume Ford E

The Great Barrier Reef 139 • By P. J. Nally • 141 A Holiday in Alaska .7; By Eunice Mays Boyd • 8.; The Changing East 145 •I By Russell Owen .1 .: The Hoorn Islands 151 ., By the late Sir Joseph Carruthers I •i Department Stores of British Malaya 157 .1 41 By Walter Buehler 1 • .1 .1 . Dyke Builders of the Yangtze 161 • By Alexander Hume Ford • •1 • • j At the Pan-Pacific Club of Tokyo 175 . 41 Bulletin of the Pan-Pacific Union, New Series, No. 156 - - 181 . ., . . Zilt 1110-Farifir f 1: agazinr Published monthly by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Pan-Pacific Club Building, Honolulu, T. H. Yearly sub- scription in the United States and possessions, $3.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $3.25. For all foreign countries, $3.50. Single Copies, .25c. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. Permission is given to reprint any article from the Mid-Pacific Magazine. I n 7111 n a T7n 1117 7117 nn-nn-nn nn 1111 0 15 5 1111 5 11, ll _1 IPC1070717111C311C2177rP(717:711UnalUgal k. Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. 102 THE MID-PACIFIC

Fiji is one of Britain's most progressive colonies, with some 13,000 inhabitants in the capital city, Suva. This typical Fijian in festive dress wears a pig's tusk neck ornament and cuts his hair to the fullest length consis- tent with its standing erect. • • P • ▪

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, • "Carrie-Fin", whose story on "Fishing in Tahitian Waters" appeared in the November Mid-Pacific Magazine. The marlin she has landed is one of the giant game fish which make Tahiti one of the most interesting fishing grounds in the world.

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The Maori carver makes man an allegory of fighting power, a living terror, with crossed Mongolian eyes, a gigantic mouth out of which the tongue hangs, shortened deformed boy-legs, and arms holding the sides.

A Maori war canoe as depicted in an etching from the Skinner collection.

116 THE MID-PACIFIC

Nita Tapoki, chief of the Arawa tribe, Rotorua. Of all the native Maori tribes his has been the most famous in respect to wood carving. The greenstone "tiki" en- circling his neck represents the embryo life, the un- born child, and is a symbol of fertility. THE MID-PACIFIC 117

The Maori Salutation.

WI_IKTA1 999999 Maori Art a• 14t, By GRANT S. CABOT 14 (University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand) • • • innainivaticarraini=auencil • • • • • ' • • ICS

Maori art can be described as being ture ; the wavy lines of mountains and mainly plastic. The work is executed in seas ; the moon in its different phases colors, black, red and white ; the white from half to full ; circular figures, simple and red are clay, mixed with fish oil ; the and complex ; beautiful, delicate tendrils black, an extract of tree bark. The of plants. The most frequent charac- sketching of the patterns was done with- teristic to be seen everywhere in Maori out models and with free-hand straight art is a line curved at one end. Its model upon the boards. Considering this, one was the fern frond unrolling, the twig marvels at the beauty, the exactness and moved by the wind, or the overhanging the vigor of the ornamentation. flax leaf. All these motives are combined The Maori was not partial to the in beautiful, still patterns, with no finish- straight or angular line ; the latter being ing brush work, or narrow scroll and of very rare occurrence in his work. His flourish, or overdone ornamentation. It motives, it appears, are clearly from na- is all so sure, steady, manly, strong and 118 THE MID-PACIFIC

firm, while the same design is repeated tionalizes the man ; makes out of him an throughout, and changes only in color- allegory of fighting power, a living terror, ing. Instead of paint, lines and figures giving him crossed Mongolian eyes, are scratched ; deeper and deeper went round shells forming the eyeballs ; a the sharp instrument, and we get high gigantic mouth, out of which the tongue relief. Then the carver worked through hangs ; shortened deformed boy legs ; the timber, and we have open, lace-like arms holding the sides. And here a pe- carving. culiar thing may be noticed—three There is cause indeed for admiration, fingers in forklike fashion are on each for the only tools employed were of hand ; at least such is the first impression. stone or wood, stone hammers, greenstone On closer examination a rudimentary knives, and chisels of wood with a piece fourth finger can be made out. This of obsidian lashed on. Sometimes years, fourth finger is pointed backward, and decades, generations were spent on one generally is in the nature of a continua- piece of work. With such tools the Maori tion of the top finger, which points to- artist carved boards for the overlapping wards the front. eaves of his roofs, for his meeting and This strange three-, or rather four-, storehouses ; on oblong boards he cut finger design is of very ancient usage. legendary figures, figures of his tribal It is found in the oldest carvings, 200 to ancestors ; he constructed boxes for 300 years old. On later examples the feathers, for pickled pigeons, for pre- fourth finger is more plainly marked, served human flesh ; he fashioned art- and is placed parallel with the other fully his spear point, his paddle blades, three. The joint formation and the nails the bailers for his canoes ; he adorned the are also shown on all the fingers. stern and bow of his canoe with gorgeous The line work of the Maori holds a carvings. beauty of its own ; it has been wrought Practically all the carving is in relief ; with patient and loving care. The tired there is nothing in the way of true statu- eye receives a satisfaction from contem- ary, though, indeed, the Maori carved plating it. The figures may seem gro- giant figures out of great trees, figures tesque caricatures, senseless distortions, sitting and standing, which served as but as conventional ornaments, as ara- ornaments for doorways, the entrances besques, they are extraordinarily effec- being hewn between the legs. Yet, tive. Not only is there strength and strange as it is, these figures never pos- vigor in this art work, but also it is full sessed the full three-dimensional body. of grace. The dominant characteristic, The Maori was no slavish copyist, indeed, is of a settled, serious, and dis- either in figure work or in line work. tinguished nature. Maori art, too, is nature viewed through The main decoration, however, was a temperament. In some of his figures, the tattooing or the working of patterns it is true, he approaches very close to on different portions of the body, espe- nature. He made use, for instance, of cially upon the face. The custom seems the lizard for a pattern, but, while pre- to have originated in the wish to make serving its external form, he covered the a warrior more terrifying and deter- body elsewhere with curved lines. In mined-look to his enemies, and, in a fact, he tattooed it. Few of his human race of warriors, this became in the man heads, however, have much likeness to the the mark of renown, and in women the living subject. In these, too, the bodies criterion of beauty. are always fully tattooed with charac- No race of mankind practised tattoo- teristic lines. For the most part, how- ing in so thorough and heroic a form as ever, there seems to be no desire to fully the Maori. The warrior's face and body portray the human being. He conven- were literally trenched with bone chisels, THE MID-PACIFIC 119 and the operation was exceedingly pain- bolic design. The now famous "tiki" em- ful, nevertheless nearly every man of blem represents the embryo life, the un- former days submitted to the "uhi" in born child, and is a symbol of fertility. order to be given a fierce and martial Shaped into a "mere," greenstone became appearance for life. Nowadays only the a symbol of rank and a terrible weapon women are tattooed, and that only in of death. certain districts. The operation is called Of all the native tribes the Arawa was "ta-kauwae," referring more especially to the most famous in respect to wood the chin. carving. The tribe was usually referred The Maoris were very fond of orna- to as the Ngati Terawhae (the carving ments, and prized specially those made tribe), and only recently is recorded the from greenstone. Far back through the death of Tene Waitere, the last of the traditions of the race is traced the story long line of Arawa Maori craftsmen, of greenstone. It is a story interwoven who for generations have handed down with birth and death—romance and from father to son the secrets of the art tragedy. Cut by primitive labor from the of Maori carving. Death swept this out- earth-bound rock, with no implements standing artist of 77 years of age aside, but fragments of hard stone, each piece but it will not dull or destroy his work. of greenstone was patiently smoothed Waitere was commissioned by many dis- and polished, day by day, month by tinguished visitors, and today specimens month, until the labor often stretched of his work can be found all over the into two or more generations. Delicate world. His Majesty King George, when in its jadelike translucence, yet hard as he visited Rotorua as Duke of York, flint, slowly the beautiful stone was was presented with one of Waitere's shaped to the will of a strong and vig- most notable carvings—a model of the orous people. historic Arawa canoe, in which his great From its green fragments were cut ancestor, the high priest Nga Torai ornaments for Maori women of rank— Rangi, of the Arawas, came to New Zea- ear and neck pendants of quaint sym- land six centuries ago. 120 THE MID-PACIFIC

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The natives learn early in life to guide the gentle carabao along the country roads.

In the Heart of the Benguet Hills* By BERTHA SHANKS CHENEY hatiniinununutruniffuninatia ti:IllinitC12atifult.

A pungent resinous breath from the over which float the Stars and Stripes pines. A fresh, cool whip of wind. One no lovelier spot can be found than this more look back over the wide smooth unique gem of a town which is laid out road that winds and zigzags for forty with neat mathematical precision and yet kilometers up the steep sides of the moun- shapes itself into the undulating contour tains. Another glimpse of the stocky of the green pine-clad mountains that brown figures in khaki shirts and home- rim it round. spun geestrings who gently sweep back On the exact floor of the valley shim- into its individual place each stone and mers a lagoon in the late afternoon sun, pebble which the tires of the auto have placid as a mirror, with grassy parks misplaced in passing. about it stretching away to merge into The car grinds up the last stiff gradient the grounds of a rambling hotel, or run- of the Naguilian Road, and below in a ning to meet the slopes of the hills them- green cup of a valley lies the enchanting selves. city of Baguio. In all the wide domains From the crest of the pass the car sweeps down the smooth highway and * See photographs in the Art Section. 122 THE MID-PACIFIC

skirts the market place with its well- Here is a region unbelievable in the built stone structures before it climbs tropical latitude wherein the Philippines again a steep street with shops, hotels, lie, a region of pines and tree forms and stores on either side. blessed with a perpetually temperate cli- Off to the right, far across the valley, mate. Instead of vast level stretches of lies a massif of rocky hills, the two high- canefields and riceland, are deeply for- est peaks of which are Mount Mirador, ested green hills. In place of coconut where has been built a meteorological palms with heavy crowns of sweeping and seismic station at the greatest alti- fronds, stately evergreens stand sentinel tude of any in the Far East, and Do- with outstretched branches. Tree ferns minican Hill, on which stands the sub- grow in luxuriance but there is no dank stantial stone rest house of the Domini- tropical undergrowth, and nostrils that can Order. One can look down from have grown weary of the permeating these heights and see an indescribably smells of the lowlands are filled with the lovely picture spread out on the other exhilarating ozone of the heights. side of the range, a view of rich coastal plains at the foot, interlaced with silver Baguio, the official summer capital of rivers and, beyond, the illimitable ex- the Philippines, is one of the gateways to panse of the blue China Sea. the Mountain Province, an extensive re- At the very summit of a high hill on gion which occupies the whole of the cen- tral mountainous section of our left rises a twin-towered church, Luzon. looking strangely prosperous and new to The visitor who comes up to this city, eyes that have seen the churches of the so charmingly cradled in the highlands of lowlands, which ever wear about them an Benguet, five thousand feet above the air of age and neglect like the worn old China Sea, is enfolded in a new physical garment of a half-forgotten day. environment. This is his first overwhelm- It is late afternon and a lacy white ing impression, but it is not long before mist is pouring in through the hill gaps. he realizes that he has also come into Clouds hurry along the distant mountain contact with a social structure which side, dropping lower and ever lower as quite differs from that to which he has they pass. The air grows chill as the become accustomed among the Filipinos mists thicken in the valley. Voices sound who live in the lowlands. He finds that foggy and a bit unnatural and we find he has arrived in a place where two of that our ears are roaring, not having ac- the three distinct cultures of the Islands commodated themselves as yet to the rar- meet and move together side by side, the ity of the atmosphere. cultures of the Filipino and the Igorote. The chauffeur drives to a hotel where In no other place are the contrasts be- the passengers are welcomed into the long tween these two so sharply accentuated sala with a cavernous fireplace at the as they are in Baguio. In other mountain end. The Filipino boy is just lighting towns, even in remote parts of the prov- the fire and its crackling flames leap up inces of northern Luzon, Filipinos may the wide throat of the chimney. be found acting as merchants, teachers, I try to think of how I perspired in or petty officials, but their numbers are Manila as I dressed this morning, of how small compared with the mountain popu- languid I felt on arising, of how the dust lation among whom they live. They are swept into my compartment in clouds there more or less under sufferance and from the bare, dry rice paddies as the they know it. They remain distinctly train roared through them today. It is Filipino but they are not, if I may so ex- difficult to bring back the lowland picture press it, so aggressive in maintaining in this atmosphere so crisp and cold, so their own racial characteristics. Not so in fresh and heavenly clean. Baguio. Here there are many lowlanders THE MID-PACIFIC 123

No lovelier sight can be found than the terraced rice paddies of the Philippines. living, who own good homes, hold lucra- which the women wear are of their own tive positions, and consider this adopted weaving, cut and made according to the province their permanent residence. fashion of each particular tribe. Above their somber eyes is massed their long, And so it is that the essential differen- black hair, looking neither clean nor ces between the two peoples—the moun- combed. taineer and the lowlander, the Igorote Igorote men are working on the road, and the Filipino—can be most advantag- or driving carabao carts, or they may be eously studied, insofar as they actually seen squatting in small groups not far exist, in the city of the highlands. from the market place, smoking tiny A superficial glance might lead the brass pipes. About their hips is wound newly come observer to think that the a geestring or long narrow loincloth of Filipinos were masters of the situation. home manufacture. The torso is pro- They go about, keeping together in their tected with shirts or coats of American own groups, driving in up-to-date cars, make, but legs and feet are bare. dressed in very modern European clothes, The differences between these two peo- the men in good-looking suits and shoes, ples, which are so evident that even he and the women not less attractive. They who runs cannot fail to observe them, are are proud, poised, sure of themselves. not accounted for by ethnologists as be- Behind them trudge the Igorotes, a ing racial in their origin. Fundamentally darker, more sturdily built race. They both peoples—Filipinos and Igorotes- tread the mountain trails with bare, are of Malay stock. Properly speaking brown feet. Their women carry huge both may be called Filipinos, but in the baskets of vegetables, swung from their general acceptation the names Igorote foreheads by a tumpline, baskets so and Filipino are used as I have used them heavy that of ten some person other than in this article. the carrier has to help lift them onto the Of the several factors which have con- backs of the burden bearers. The clothes tributed to the wide differentiation which 124 THE MID -PACIFIC

now appears to exist between these two If the forefathers of the present Fili• groups, one of the most important is the pinos were as rapid and ruthless in set- date of their arrival in the Islands. The tling an argument with their weapons as well-founded conclusion has now been their descendants are with their bolos, it reached that the progenitors of the moun- is not to be wondered at that the bewil- tain people came to the Islands in a much dered folk whose villages they stormed earlier invasion than did those of the were driven back and back until they plainsmen. That early invasion was not found refuge in the well-nigh inaccessible made in one time or place but consisted mountains of northern Luzon. Here in of a series of migrations which probably the deep valleys that lie between the extended over a long period of time. cloud-kissing forested highlands they Those waves of immigration which rolled made homes in which to live in compara- across the reef-protected shores of the tive peace. archipelago and slowly flooded back up And so they have come to belong to the the rivers to beat their way through nipa Igorotes and their allied tribes, these and mangrove swamps to the fertile in- mountains of northern Luzon which rise land plains, may have taken years or even so abruptly from the coastal plain, with centuries to settle down. their high passes ; their lovely emerald valleys where the music of running water In the confusing movements of Orien- never ceases ; their declivitous slopes, tal tribes and peoples in those far-off recognized as being among the steepest ages, the coming of the brown men in in the world ; their deep-hid stores of their long bancas to the Philippines can gold and silver ; their narrow winding be but faintly discerned. We know that trails, bordered with begonias and Ben- they came and that they came to stay. guet lilies ; their strange huddled villages. When the first invaders arrived they This brings us to the second great fac- found a small black folk living along the tor which has served to perpetuate and coasts, tribes of diminutive people with emphasize the differences between these mops of fuzzy hair, alert and nervous. two peoples of the Philippines, that is, With the greater strength which was their distinct environments. Although for theirs to command, the invaders drove unrecorded periods of time they have these pygmy Negritos or Aetas back in lived within a comparatively short dis- terror to remote hiding places in the tance of each other, they have had until jungle-covered hills, there to dig for recently no social or commercial inter- roots and to hunt birds with a blowgun. course. Their physical surroundings have As the seasons came and went in been totally different and the culture rhythmic succession the newcomers which each has developed has been learned to call the lands their own and shaped by those surroundings. around them developed their own civili- The tribes who occupied the coastal zation. But in what place or time did any and the great central plains of Luzon had native tribe or people ever hold its own fertile lands in abundance, watered with for long? a thousand rivers and brooks. The sim- ple wants of those early inhabitants could Again there rolled over the Islands a be supplied by little effort. Life for them fresh series of invasions, Malays of vari- was easy, compared to that among the ous degrees of civilization. Being more mountains. powerful, bolder, and more resourceful Two serious problems confronted the than the people now in possession, they Igorotes if they were to live, the securing pulled their bancas up on the shore and of arable land and the conserving of without hesitation they fought back the water. The extent of the former was men who vainly strove to keep them off. limited and the tribes have had to carve THE MID -PACIFIC 125 out and construct by hand garden patches maintain their magnificent rice terraces, on the steep slopes as the numbers of unequalled anywhere in the world, calls their population increased. These prec- for unceasing toil of men and women and ious bits of productive soil are held in children. Early in the morning they go place by walls of stone—stone that has out from their villages to the fields and had to be carried great heights on human return in late afternoon. shoulders and fitted into place with in- In addition to the two factors which finite care. Tier above tier they rise like have been cited above as determining in- gigantic steps against the almost perpen- fluences in differentiating the mountain dicular face of the mountains for thou- tribes from the lowlanders, a third one sands of feet, these hanging gardens in should be considered, and that is the whose enriched beds grow the rice, the effect of foreign contacts. camotes, the tobacco, and the vegetables In the course of the ages the ships of used by the people. many nations have entered the harbors No lovelier sight in all the world can that are to be found so frequently along be found than a view of these terraced the indented shores of the islands that paddies, lying in the golden sunshine, a compose the Philippine Archipelago, living, shining emerald green, with here ships from Japan, Java, Sumatra, Hol- and there a blood-red plant growing on land, the British Isles, Portugal, Spain, the curving edge of a terrace. In the Canada, Germany and America, as well chinks and crevices of the beautiful dry- as others. stone walls wild ferns have taken root Of all the nations that have visited the and over their surfaces have drawn a Islands, the three which have left the delicate tracery of green. The mountain- most lasting impress and the effect of eers are hydraulic engineers in their own whose influences on the present culture rights and a careful system of trenches of the inhabitants is most marked are : carries the never-failing streams of China, economically ; Spain, spiritually ; water down from level to level to bathe and America, politically and education- the roots of the tall and vigorous plants. ally. Professor Beyer of the Philipine Bu- How far back in history trading junks reau of Science estimates that it has re- from China first made their way across quired 1500 years for the Ifugaos, an the vast China Sea is not certainly known. allied tribe who dwell among the moun- One of the earliest written records on tains far to the northeast of Baguio, to the subject is that of a Chinese geog- build up the extensive system of terraces rapher, Chau Ju-Kua, a member of the which they have. Their tilled lands, if house of Sung who, between the years spread out on a flat plain would cover ap- of 1209 and 1214, published "A Record proximately one hundred square miles, of Foreign Countries." In this compre- and their stone walls would stretch out to hensive geographical treatise appears a a length of 1,200 miles if placed end to chapter on the Philippine trade. end. These marvelous terraces, built by This contact of the peoples of the a people who are still without a written Islands with the Chinese introduced to language, now reach to the very summit them not only the wares of the traders— of the mountains. their bells, porcelain dishes and glazed Because of the bracing climate, the pottery, but many customs, words, ideas more rigorous life, and the sterner envir- of dress, etc. The carrying pole is as onment of the highland country, the common in the Islands as it is in China. mountain tribes have developed a sturdy I have heard it stated, but have no word physique. They are tireless hikers and of authority to prove it, that every form climb the steep, slippery trials with the of gambling known by the Filipinos was ease of mountain goats. To build and to brought to them from China. 126 THE MID-PACIFIC

The two-wheeled carromata drawn by sturdy ponies of native stock are common public con- veyances in Manila. • THE MID-PACIFIC 127

Evidences of this Chinese influence Men may come and men may go, but can be found in the mountain provinces the life of the tribes continues in its age- as well as in the lowlands. Some writers old way, with its quaint customs and have maintained that a strong infusion of unique ceremonies. Every step in the Chinese blood among the mountaineers production of food is accompanied by in- was definitely indicated by certain char- vokings of the anitos, or spirits, lest the acteristics of the people, but others deny family go hungry because the ghosts of it. In their own barbaric and confused the dead have been offended. The sea- accounts of their origin certain traditions sons of the year are reckoned by dry tell of Chinese boats being shipwrecked and wet divisions, and the years by the on the western coasts of northern Luzon number of harvests. Certain cries of a long before the Spaniards arrived and of bird are a warning from a friendly anito the survivors becoming intermarried with to the Igorote that some particular dan- the natives. ger in waiting for him on the trail, and he invariably turns back, or sits down In whatever way it may have come, and waits until another bird comes along Chinese influences made a certain and and advises him that the danger has lasting impress on the mountain tribes, passed. "This way belong to the Igorote but Spanish influences made little. Dur- fashion."* ing the three hundred years of Spain's Even though during their regime the occupation the lowland country became Spaniards were never able to gain any Catholic through the unremitting efforts considerable control among the mountain of the Spanish padres carrying the Book, tribes, either politically or spiritually, but the mountain tribes remained pagan, they did become somewhat acquainted and pagan they are to this day. The re- with the tribal divisions, the customs and fining influence of Spanish culture was manners of living of the mountaineers. very great on the receptive peoples to whom it was brought, witness of which The Mountain Province was exceed- may be seen in the grace and courtesy ingly difficult of access, but as early as which are so preeminently characteristic 1663 a group of Spanish officers with a of Filipinos. If this was carried in any small force of men attempted to explore measure at all to the mountaineers it was these regions. They were repulsed by in a very small one. the hostile tribesmen. As the years went by, the hardy-hiking padres scaled many The third foreign nation whose pos- a dangerous trail and returned reports to sible influence on the culture of the moun- their superiors of the conditions they met. taineers may be considered of importance In the second quarter of the nineteenth is that which has been wielded by the century Captain Guillermo Galvey, a Americans since they came into posses- famous Spanish explorer, made thirty- sion of the Islands in the last days of two expeditions into the mountain coun- the Nineteenth Century. The externals try, visiting most of the pueblos of of that influence may be seen in the roads Benguet, Lepanto, Bontoc and If ugao. which have opened up the country, in Trinidad was made the capital of the the outwardly peaceable relations of the Comandancia Politico Militar of Benguet tribes to each other, in the schoolhouses in 1816. which here and there dot the mountain From the accounts returned by these landscape, and in the setting up of the early missionaries of the Catholic Chruch American gods of sanitation and orderly living. Beyond these things, which are and by Explorer Galvey, the Captains- obviously externals only, its extent can General in Manila heard of the wonder- be neither estimated nor measured, as it * The backwoods Filipino has similar be- is still in the making. liefs.—Ed. 128 THE MID-PACIFIC ful climate of Baguio and of La Trini- sight. One of the number wrote: "The dad, a beautiful wide valley which lies country was gently rolling, its elevation a few kilometers to the north and west. ranging from forty-five to fifty-two hun- Three distinguished and competent Span- dred feet. The hills were covered with ish officers were detailed to investigate short, thick grass, and with magnificent this section and report on what they pine trees, which for the most part grew found. The officers spent some weeks in at considerable distance from each other, the then absolutely primitive Baguio and while along the streams there were won- tramped over the surrounding country derful tree ferns and luxuriant tangles of very thoroughly. During their stay they beautiful tropical vegetation. It took us made six temperature observations daily, but a short time to decide that here was located several springs of water and de- an ideal site for a future city, if water termined their approximate flow, and could be found in sufficient quantity." otherwise gathered many valuable data. The question of a water supply was After this report was returned to the settled when the group of investigators Spanish authorities in Manila, engineers were led to a crystal-clear spring which made a survey for a carriage road and burst forth from a hillside in such a way prepared a profile of it, giving estimates as to make its protection from surface of the cost and of the necessary exca- drainage easy, and which was flowing vating and other work which they would nearly a million gallons of water a day. need to have done. This report was filed in the Spanish Obviously one of the outstanding prob- archives, but for reasons which were lems was to build a road up the moun- then valid, no attempt was made to tain side that would make Baguio acces- utilize it. sible from the lowlands otherwise than by horse. From a study of the Spanish By a fortunate accident the report was maps two possible routes had suggested brought to the attention of the Ameri- themselves, one up the valley of the Agno can officials who made up the second River, the other up the valley of the Philippine Commission, and even before Bued. Even before the Committee had the Insurgent forces of the Filipinos had completed its tentative investigation, one been brought to order a small delegation of the group, who was an engineer of of Americans, accompanied by a troop of experience, undertook to take a trip down cavalry, made a trip to Baguio to investi- the Bued Valley to the plains of Panga- gate its possibilities as a health resort. It sinan and report his findings later in was in the last week of July, 1900, Manila. With a guard of soldiers he that this handful of men toiled up the made the attempt, but encountered diffi- trail, passing from the steaming heat of culties which he could not overcome with the plains to an atmosphere that was so the supplies he had taken with him, and cold they couldn't find blankets enough so had to return. to keep warm—a little company that was to be the vanguard of an army of thou- The need for a health resort for the sands upon thousands who have since Americans living in the Islands was so then scaled the heights by horse, wagon, pressing and the report of the investi- and automobile, and joyously shivered in gating committee so convincing that the invigorating cool atmosphere of active measures were taken almost at Baguio. once by the Philippine Commission, which was at that time the governing To the investigating committee the body of the Islands. Five thousand dol- wide rolling plateau, surrounded by tow- lars Mexican was appropriated "for the ering peaks, of which the city of Baguio purpose of making a survey to ascertain is now the center, presented a lovely the most advantageous route for a rail- THE MID-PACIFIC 129

Much of the country produce comes to town by river boats. way into the mountains of Benguet, On January 29, 1905, Colonel Kennon, Island of Luzon, and the probable cost a man of great energy and executive thereof," as says Act No. 2, Philippine ability, to whose untiring efforts the Commission, September 12, 1900. pushing forward of the construction was at last assigned, drove into Baguio Those five thousand Mexican dollars in the first wagon to arrive there over were the initial offering, the first infini- the Benguet Road. Two months later tesimal morsel thrown to a ravenous the highway waS opened for regular creature which opened its jaws wider and service. ever wider until almost three billion sound American silver dollars went down Long before the wagons could make its throat. That insatiable creature was the entire distance American officials were ascending by any method or con- the highway to Baguio. veyance they could muster to the health- No railway line has ever been built up ful atmosphere of the highlands, and a the Bued Valley. The first engineer se- small sanitarium was opened in a native lected to make the survey was of the house to care for such as had become opinion that one could be laid, but as ill with the tropical diseases which at the construction of a wagon road would that day were little understood. Soon be necessary in building the railroad five rough cottages were thrown up, he suggested that such be undertaken built of lumber which had been sawed first. He modestly asked for $75,000 by hand on the ground. United States currency with which to build the wagon road, stating that he Among those who went to Baguio to hoped to finish it for $65,000, but would recuperate from, severe illnesses in those like the extra $10,000 as a margin of early days, and 'whose names have since safety. become illustrious in the history of the Not months, but years of hard labor Philippines and in the history of the were put in before the road was finished. world, was William Howard Taft. 130 THE MID-PACIFIC

Nothing pleases the old-timers better Here the traveler may step out of his car than to sit and spin yarns of their early and look down the side of a cliff for a experiences in Baguio. They wistfully sheer straight drop of a thousand feet. look around on the broad curving roads A part of this route lies along a high that lead away in every direction, on the plateau covered with virgin forests of fleets of automobiles and trucks whose giant pine trees. Pine needles thickly honking through the hills causes the carpet the ground beneath the magnifi- barefooted natives to scurry quickly to cent trees. In other places may be seen the side of the road, at the luxurious great spaces in the forest that look like modern hotels and the beautiful resi- open parks. dences with gardens and grounds of A thrilling ride may be had at any surpassing beauty, at the schools and time by securing an Ilocano chauffeur churches and all that, and sigh for the to one of the numerous places of inter- good old days. est. These daring, devil-may-care brown Earlier in this article I stated that fellows are experts at the wheel. They Baguio is the entrance to the Mountain are speed fiends and have apparently no Province. To reach the city from Ma- sense of fear, but they are good drivers nila the traveler either takes train or and never hesitate to take their passen- auto. If he comes by train he disem- gers as far and as fast as they may barks at Damortis Station, and from wish to go. there proceeds by motor stage over the Comfortable resthouses for the con- Kennon Road, or, as it is also called, the venience of visitors have been built and Benguet Zigzag, the stage being ope- are operated by the Bureau of Public rated by the railway company. At Works. Clean and good accommoda- Camp One the motor highway from tions at very reasonable rates may be Manila joins Kennon Road, so that had. One of the best and most interest- whether the visitor has come by train ing of these resthouses has been set on or by car, he ascends the mountain over the slope of Mount Data, a substantial the same spectacularly beautiful trail. place with walls of unbarked pine and Another route may be taken into with roof thatched thick with cogon Baguio—by continuing on the train past grass. Within the resthouse three huge Damortis to the town of Bauang, per- fireplaces give comfort and cheer. haps an hour's ride further. At Bauang At the foot of Mount Data is a a car or motor stage may be taken which small conical-shaped mountain known goes in over the Naguilian Road. as Mount Mugao, a spot held sacred by the, Igorotes. Located not far away is Once arrived in Baguio, there are a native town called Cagubatan and a roads which, cut against the mountain small lake which furnishes sufficient side, curve and zigzag far, far into the water to irrigate all of the rice terraces upland country. Dangerous routes to a of the pueblo. I was told that in this stranger they may prove to be in a hun- little body of water, which is of infinite dred places, but every passing year puts value to the inhabitants of the town, them into better shape. A new trail has are some very old and very large eels. been opened up recently between Baguio The natives believe that if the eels and Bontoc, along which there are views should die the waters of the lakelet to be had of unexampled grandeur and would dry up, and so the creatures are loveliness. Every sweep of the way re- given the best of care. The Igorote chil- veals a picturesque scene. dren, slender naked brown figures, as At a point which has been named supple as willow wands, go to the edge Gibraltar the road has been chiseled out of the lake and chant a low, sweet tune of the solid rocky face of the mountain. which brings the eels to the surface of THE MID-PACIFIC 131 the water. Cooked rice and camotes are two from the speech of a Filipino who thrown in so that the eels may have was describing his homeland : plenty to eat. "The blue sea is her veil ; her crown, As a shadowy film of memories of the beautiful sky studded with brilliant this fascinating mountain country of stars. Whoever has not seen these northern Luzon unrolls before my Islands of the East has not seen one of mental vision, I recall a sentence or the loveliest regions of the earth."

Manila, on the shores of the blue China Sea, is one of the great centres of commerce of the Orient. 132 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 133

Fijian warriors in ancient native costume.

-71. 711,77717:711C711,7111:717:71 IT7TICJM7/ 11:717711C70:70:711,70■7I PUNT:ThIC7tRUT

IX • Fiji Sports • By FAY SHARP • On staff of All Outdoors. • a t inunthatuannunitnthaunichai tnihnnrn,ln1

I feel justified in stating that the Fijian games as football and even cricket, in people are perhaps one of the finest native which sport a Fijian student from the races that the British have encountered Natabua Teachers' Training School has in the history of their colonization. I broken New Zealand's record for hurling admit that the tourist sees much of the a cricket ball. Soccer is their favorite Fijian who wanders round the streets of game in this line as they find their fuzzy Suva (the capital town) dressed in Eng- heads of the utmost use on the busy lish clothes and with hands in pockets, football field. It is truly marvelous to the worst type of this race, but they can- see the way they manage to turn the ball not truly judge the real Fijian until they round by a mere twist of their bare feet have penetrated past the town life of this while they think nothing of bouncing the colony and entered the villages where the ball from one to another by means of natives live their own carefree and en- their heads. These "turanga" sports viable life among their thatched "lures" form only a part of their recreation, for or native houses. they are often in the open practicing The Fijians, who are lovers of all that spear-throwing with long stalks of bam- is sporting and venturesome, are excellent boo, in which art they are extremely sportsmen and excel in such true British clever. Among others comes the game 134 THE MID-PACIFIC of "pushing the weight," which with It has been truly said that a Fijian their sturdy forms and huge muscles is never grows up and is always ready to mere child's play to them. enjoy the games and amusements of his childhood. He is ever a lover of music ; Suva harbor is a beautiful place with men and women alike play the ukulele, the long, almost unbroken, white line of the banjo, and the mandolin. Of these coral reef forming amidst the blue and the ukulele is the most commonly used and peaceful waters, and I consider it a sight the soft musical tune of their national well worth seeing to view a small native song "Isalei" is a thing one can never canoe, with its fearless, skillful occupants, tire of hearing when sung and played by outlined in front of that rising spray as the natives themselves. it seeks the opening in the reef. The na- In Fiji the Indians are the predom- tives love to sail in their frail vessels out- inant race, and although they rank no- side this protecting boundary and to ven- where near the Fijians in their love of ture forth into an open sea. They head sport, there are several among them who mostly for the smaller reefs such as those rival the latter in horsemanship, and who which surround the smaller islands of Nu- are keen and excellent sportsmen. We have kalau or Makaluva where they spend the here also several of the coolie type of day fishing and catching the beche-de-mer Chinaman, and it is no uncommon sight with which these flat stretches of coral to see him in his vegetable garden in the abound. The coral itself is a formation early morning caring for and watering the well worth seeing ; there is the soft, half- plants which bring him his source of liv- formed red and blue kind which may be ing, by means of huge watering cans found on almost any reef in Fiji, and fixed on either end of a stout pole which again there is the hard, brittle, more com- he carries across his shoulders. mon species white and more rarely red, The natives of the colony are not only blue and purple. excellent in games but are also quick to The Fijian women spend much of their pick up the English language and adapt time in weaving mats, baskets, serviette- it to use. It is a well known fact that rings, and various other such articles, the Fijians are the best writers of all using the greatest care and showing the dark-skinned races ; they have proved utmost ability in their work. In almost wonderful mathematicians, and when all every English home in these islands it has been said I consider that they are will be found that these articles are in truly a gifted people and a race whose common use. habits are worth while studying.

Fijian girls dancing. THE MID-PACIFIC 135

npv,,p vs/M, • • • • Ipncrilluz MAINnymitt4OuruI t • 5 The Fleshpots of Peru in General and Lima in Particular By ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Director Pan-Pacific Union.

• VrafiXtAl trINUNI I • • • • • •

Let down from heaven by one of the why the ambition of the Peruvian is to many patron saints of Lima, there is a see how little work he can do between fresh-water crayfish that I mean to have meals. I live now for the next mealtime, introduced into the streams of Hawaii six hours away ! Chile gave the straw- and across the Pacific. He is delicious berry to the world. They all originated above all other lobsters and crayfish. I on the coast of Chile and Peru. Once am bringing out a young Peruvian. I when I was a boy in the Carolinas, I know now that he will travel to Hawaii picked and ate such strawberries, tiny and on the direct steamer of the N.Y.K. and delicate, sweet and luscious to the taste. he will come in the season when the cray- I have dined today as I have not dined in fish are ready to spawn. The waters of forty years. I have brought the great big the Peruvian coastal streams must be menu card home to study between meals. about the same temperature as our own. I am going to be a glutton in Lima. There Ishikawa brought the spawn of the Japan- was a week I spent in 1914 on a Spanish ese oysters and clams when he came to steamer in the China Seas. Never since Honolulu to stay with me at the Pan- then have I had such food. I am waiting Pacific Research Institution, and they are for six o'clock, when I can start again. breeding in Hawaiian waters. Now for At the hotel the roof of my mouth was the Peruvian crayfish, a morsel for the eaten out by the corrosive sublimate they gods. put with their pepper dishes to dilute the I discovered the Peruvian crayfish by fiery stuff. That may be Peruvian and accident. He inhabits a little Spanish res- Mexican ; it is not Spanish. I have found taurant and boiled red disports himself my bit of Spain in Peru and will stick in the window as a temptation, and I fell. to it. I am going to keep on falling. My little restaurant is on the street At last I have found a real Spanish "Jesus Nazareno." It is enough to make restaurant in Lima, and to my astonish- any man a Christian and a good Catholic. ment the prices are ridiculous besides My doctor here advises me to eat very those charged at the hotels. My little lightly for the next two days before I crayfish "Camarone's Co Mayonesa" are ascend some 16,000 feet up in the Andes. but sixty cents, Peruvian (for two) He is too late. My doctor says if I over- equalling some twenty-five cents in real eat I will have mountain seasickness (sor- money. Then there is "Ensuluda de pal- ochi) on the train. All right, I am com- tas" which is alligator pear salad made ing back over the same route and I know as only the Spanish can concoct a salad, there will be no tempting restaurant at about twenty cents real money. Then Oroya, a mining camp way up in the there was "Fesus al vino" for dessert, Andes where I spend the night, then turn strawberries in wine, thirty cents Peru- back. I am going up on the highest rail- vian or twelve cents gold. Now I know way in the world. There are no night 136 THE MID-PACIFIC

Although bananas are plentiful around Lima, they are also imported from Panama.

trains. You go up one day and come down keeps my hand in my small change pocket the next, if they can keep you alive with all the time, and the peaches, they are oxygen, which is carried on the train. small but have a flavor that California They carry a doctor. It is his job, not would give millions to instil in her great mine, to pull me through, and there are beautiful golden fruit that looks so lus- three hundred dishes, in Spanish, on that cious on the table. Canned peaches here menu in the Jesus of Nazareth Restau- from Chile are small but full of flavor. rant, that I have to look up in my Span- The California canned peaches cost twice ish-English dictionary, before six o'clock. as much and are put on the table for show I eat at six o'clock. The rest of the Peru- but you eat the little Chilean peaches and vians eat dinner at nine or ten P.M., then ask for more. As for pineapple, to tell go to the movies. you the truth the fresh native-grown fruit There are thirty cold dishes, sort of here is thrust aside for the canned Ha- waiian pineapple, when you can get it. It glorified hors d'oeuvre on that bill of fare, to begin with. I recall that trip is advertised on the great billboards along around the world when we struck Petro- the roadsides. grad, and started out on the boat for The sugar is unrefined and crude, cost- Stockholm. We went down to the dining ing a cent and a quarter a pound to raise saloon and encountered the Zakouska and manufacture, but selling at fourteen table. We had paid our dollar and so we cents a pound. started in. On the big table were all kinds And coffee — they call it coffee — is of sea foods, shrimps, oysters, sardines, served in essence. That is, two silver fish and eggs, hot and cold, scores of pitchers are brought to you, and out of tempting morsels, and we did not resist. one is poured a few spoonsful of thick When we could hold no more we began to black syrup, that's the coffee essence, and retreat, but were led to the table where then the cup is filled up with boiling milk the real feast was set. We had only en- from the other pitcher, and you have a countered the hors d'oeuvre. drink that's really creditable. It is strong, The fruit on the street in Lima is ex- at least. Milk is one commodity that is pensive, but the figs have a flavor that cheaper in Lima than in Honolulu. It THE MID-PACIFIC 137

costs half as much, but butter is twice as were going to the bull fight, their one expensive and most of it comes from Sunday afternoon diversion. The children California in cans. here really enjoy the bull fights, and the I may as well say something about the movies, and consider them equally inno- cost of housekeeping in Lima. It is ex- cent. pensive ; first, the houses in the suburbs The young lady of the house in going that the Nordic would demand rent for asked me if bull fighting was prohibited high prices. While many fruits and vege- in the United States. I told her yes, and tables are grown near Lima, for some that this prohibition was effective as was reason they are not brought to market in the prohibition against lottery, as no one quantities. Bananas drop to the ground particularly cared for these sports, but. I in gardens near Lima, while bunches are added that in my lifetime I had been brought by boat from Panama. Oranges tempted into a back yard to watch the re- grow in the valleys, but the California or- sults of a cockfight. anges and apples, paying a heavy duty, are sold in the stores. A prohibitive duty "My, my," she said, "The whole on ham makes hog meat a luxury indeed, world's a hypocrite, isn't it ?" and she was while small eggs the year 'round cost five off for the bull fight. cents apiece. Foreigners dare not eat The American women of Lima and native garden truck, because of the night their sisters who are staunch and loyal soil used in its culture. They dare not Peruvians but born of one or two Anglo- drink water for fear of typhoid, and in Saxon parents are doing much to induce this I cannot blame them. I have seen the Spanish Peruvian women to step out the use the natives make of the streams, and assert themselves. But the real Peru- both in Lima and in the hills from whence vian women, regardless of Anglo-Saxon comes the supply of dr,inking water. Good parentage, patriotically speak only Span- mineral water costs three times as much ish, and there is little enthusiasm in the as beer or native wine, and there you are. house when it is suggested that they at- Instead of a day of mountain climbing tend a women's conference held some I had counted on, I am taken in hand by thousands of miles away in the broad the women here in charge of the prepara- Pacific. However, thanks to the efforts tion for our Pan-Pacific Women's Con- of Mrs. James Gallagher Parks, whose ference in August. I am to lunch with father Gallagher was Irish, and her them and I trust I shall extract sufficient mother Peruvian-Spanish, a delegation information on housekeeping expenses in from Latin America will attend the Lima to finish this thesis as a letter to the Women's Conference in Honolulu. Then ladies of Honolulu on the subject of how the women can get together and talk to eat, drink and be merry in Lima with- housekeeping for themselves. out breaking the law or exhausting your As for me, I regret to leave my little purse. restaurant on Jesus of Nazareth Street. Well, the lunch is over. It was a pure I find new treasures daily. This morning Peruvian lunch, duck and nice stuffed al- as I sat down to breakfast a Lima Eagle, ligator pear and other delicious foods of otherwise a turkey buzzard, wandered in the country. The ladies tell me it costs from the street and insisted on sharing a very small family a hundred pounds my morning meal. I fed him and thought Peruvian ($400.00) a month to live. If of the magnificent condor I had seen the palatial country club is patronized it above the Andes, brought down, and his must cost much more. skin and wings offered for sale to me. Just before dessert the two young la- Well, the fleshpots of Lima are behind dies arose and excused themselves. They the mountains now. 138 THE MID-PACIFIC l ra co f h o tc e tr s t vas he t f o it A b

THE MID-PACIFIC 139

• • WV RA The Great Barrier Reef By P. J. NALLY Publicity Officer for the Queensland Forest Service

aaaaaaaa VAllrearettreitrerregrci "ItliatCA • LaLtiatuathal

The Great Barrier Reef is unquestion- other commercial purposes. Nothing was ably the treasure ground of, not only wasted. Australia, but of the world, so far as the Such a multiplicity of fishes of great infinite variety of fishes is concerned. marketable value exist in and around That this is so has been conclusively dem- the Great Barrier Reef that there is onstrated by the recent investigations of practically no limit whatever as to the a British scientific expedition. The waters number of industrial concerns which within the vast stretch of coral formation could be profitably established in connec- along the Queensland coast, and also tion therewith. The great wealth that around the numerous islands to the east exists in pearl shell, trochus shell, tor- and west thereof, simply teem with edible toise shell, and beche-de-mer is well fishes, from the diminutive sardine to the known, but even in this respect the ex- huge groper. For centuries vast shoals ploitation has been only of a more or of the finny tribe have lived in undis- less superficial character. The green- turbed quietude in the oceanic gardens backed turtle, so much favored for the among the coral reefs, and have multi- making of the exceptionally rich and plied a millionf old every year. Having nutritious soup, is to be found in count- visited many of the islands within the less numbers on a number of the islands Great Barrier Reef on several occasions and in the sea. Sponge is also to be during the past twenty years, I can vouch found, and only requires to be properly for the rich store of various varieties of propagated in order to establish a very edible and other utilitarian fishes that profitable new industry for Australia. abound there at all periods of the year, fishes, the like of which are not to be That the Great Barrier Reef holds out found in any other portion of the world. illimitable possibilities for scientific and During a holiday trip to America in 1924, businesslike exploitation cannot be gain- I had an opportunity of making a close said, and as soon as this has been con- study of the fishes in the tropical waters summated the wealth in the form of of the northern Pacific Ocean. In the s. d. reaped from this region will be of waters surrounding many of the islands a colossal character. called at, I noticed that there was a very If the proposals to develop the reef marked similarity in the fishes there with are carried out on sound, businesslike those found in such illimitable quantities and systematic lines I have not the slight- within the Great Barrier Reef ; but there est doubt in my mind that it will soon was a very pronounced difference, inas- develop into, not only one of the biggest much as there is practically no limit as industries of its kind in the world, but to the infinite variety of the finny tribe will be also one of the safest gilt-edged in the oceanic areas bordering on the investments. The latent wealth is there in coral-line reefs. In Honolulu, and in superabundance, and all that is required different parts of America, I noticed now to make it a sound commercial that practically every kind of oceanic proposition of immense value is capital, creation was utilized for foodstuff and energy and enterprise. 140 THE MID -PACIFIC

The appended figures will exemplify value of the crabs for the same periods the great wealth that some of the most was £8,593 and £7,385, respectively. notable fishes caught within the Great There is an unlimited market for most Barrier Reef during the years ended of the fishes found along the Queensland June 30, 1931 and 1932, mean to Queens- coast in Australia, China, America and land : England. This refers particularly to YEAR ENDED JUNE 30, 1931 pearl shell, dugongs (for its flesh and No. Tons Cwt. Value oil), turtles (for soup), porpoise (hide), Pearl shell 798 16 113,399 shark (dried steaks, fins, skin, oil and Pearls 1,075 Beche-de-mer 189 12 13,614 manure), sardines, etc. In point of fact, Trochus shell 603 4 39,604 it is from the by-products of the fishing Tortoise shell 746 330 industry that the most lucrative returns Turtles 50 25 will be obtained. Incidentally, it may be mentioned that Total £168,047 a big market should be created for such YEAR ENDED JUNE 30, 1932 Queensland edible fishes as barramundi, No. Tons Cwt. Value giant Spanish mackerel, snapper, rock Pearl shell 469 5 76,197 cod, etc. There is a ready market now Pearls open for these fishes, smoked or cured, Beche-de-mer 441 4 33,437 Trochus shell 518 1 33,168 at £90 per ton. Likewise, for dried shark Tortoise shell 5 3 264 flesh at £25 per ton. Pearl shell is valued Turtles 134 200 at £140 per ton ; trochus shell (according to quality), at from £60 to £75 per ton ; Total £143,266 tortoise shell (according to quality), from 6d. (minimum) to 25/- (maximum) per There has been much better produc- pound. Just as millions of pounds ster- tion in previous years, and, ordinarily, this ranges from £250,000 to over £400,- ling are being made annually on edible 000 annually. fishes of all kinds, together with the by- products associated therewith, in the In addition, 4,640 tons of edible fish, leading fishing countries of the world, so valued at £150,807, was also obtained can a similar state of affairs be brought for the whole of Queensland in 1930-31, about in Queensland when the wonderful while the production for 1931-32 was resources of the Great Barrier Reef are 3,696 tons, valued at £136,116. The developed to the fullest extent. THE MID-PACIFIC 141

1/4.1,14011,. 1141,. • • 1,MMIAMVS,A,Mi11 l■ 9999 4 • • • 1.44.,11141.1144.14,11AWIP • 1C7r1C7ITC71 1341414p4P44111 40,,,,42,VP A Holiday in Alaska By EUNICE MAYS BOYD On Staff of "Sunset Magazine"

From the Alaskan river boats one sees a succession of towering snow-clad mountains slip by.

When I first came to Alaska, my favorite story of the old sourdoughs for friends insisted that I stock up on books, the tourists and school-teachers coming sewing, and letter paper for "the long to Alaska is the one about a man who winter evenings." It was a useless pro- bought a lot in Valdez in the winter vision ; I seldom spent my evenings at time. When the spring came and the home. snow melted, he discovered there were When the sun gets down to just a low two houses on it arc in the south, and the boats lengthen their time between visits to every ten And there are times when one can days, then is the time to wax up your almost believe that story. The second skis and put new thongs in your snow- winter I was there we had ten feet of shoes. Oil your boots then, and patch snow on the level and anywhere from up your moccasins ; winter's playtime is fifteen to thirty feet in the drifts. One here! afternoon coming home from work after The town I lived in on my first stay in a heavy fresh snow and a lusty glacier Alaska was Valdez, the farthest north wind, I had to worm my way on my port open all year round. It is also the stomach between a snow drift and the snow town, where the snow comes soon- porch roof, and "belly-buster" down to est, gets deepest, and stays longest of the door. Believe it or not ; it's true. any incorporated town in Alaska. A That, of course, was "unusual weather." 142 THE MID-PACIFIC

Ordinarily the snow is only five or six itself ; and after you get there—the joy feet on the level! of the outdoor winter life. You don't In Valdez the automobiles hibernate even have to be an expert at winter for the winter ; the road out of town (the sports to get the thrill. Just get out and Richardson Highway, commonly called wallow in the snow, flounder in it, play "The Trail") is closed; and the heavy with it. And if you haven't seen snow draying around town is done on sleds for as long a time as I hadn't when I by sturdy horses, or on foot by sturdy first came to Alaska, that's what you'll men. The sidewalks are not kept shov- want to do. Even if you are a novice, eled (that would be supermen's work), don't let it bother you. Anyone can but a trail is beaten down, and when you walk on snowshoes, and you'll never f or- want to go off the trail, you take to skis get the downright ecstasy of learning to or snowshoes; all the fences are covered, keep right side up on skis. Tumbling in and you have no hindrance. From the snow is like tumbling in hay, and half trails, steps are cut in the snow, and you the fun of learning. go down, instead of up, into the houses. You can always find accommodations Even the airplanes go on skis in that in any town where the boat stops. Some country. are better than others, but you can cer- But though you have all this snow, tainly get a bed, food, and hot water, you seldom have cold weather on the and what more do you want for a winter coast. Only occasionally does it get vacation? In Valdez, none of the hotel below zero. But don't mistakenly think rooms have private baths—but why be it's a summer climate. Valdez sometimes proud? Use the one the gods provide. has a glacier wind that may blow for a After all, in "America's last frontier" we day or two, or may blow for a week or should be thankful for inside plumbing. two, that freezes the very marrow in Or, if you want to be even more inde- your bones. And the other coast towns pendent, Valdez is provided with more now and then have rain in the winter houses than it is with people to live in that turns to glare ice, and then—watch them, left-overs from the booming days your step! But the coast doesn't have of the Gold Rush. You can take a house the 40 and 50 and 60 below zero weather of your own, with a bath, for a small of the interior to contend with. In Val- sum. dez, except for the days of the wind, you If you want a winter vacation de luxe, can be out every day of the winter with- stop in Cordova, where an excellent out discomfort. I know, for I prac- hotel has all the modern conveniences, tically was. Of course, you must go and where you can be transported to and prepared. By that, I don't mean woolen from the lake in an automobile. They underwear, but I do mean plenty of have splendid skating on the lake. Or go woolen outer-wear. on to Anchorage, a half day's train trip The tourist season in Alaska is the from Seward, on the coast, through summer time, but it has always been a beautiful mountain scenery. There they source of wonder to me why it isn't the have two nice hotels, and you can always winter time. Of course, Alaska is beau- get a car, a pair of skis, and a rope, and tiful in the summer, but it seems to me go skimming through the countryside at that it is even more beautiful, and cer- thirty miles an hour. It is wonderful tainly more typical, in the winter. You sport. If you are "doing Alaska" in would not get so much enjoyment out of February, you can go on up the railroad the boat trip, of course, but looking out to Fairbanks, a day and a half from from the warmth of the social hall, at Anchorage, to see the dog derby; and the towering, snow-clad mountains that if it's not too late, you may get in on you're slipping by, is an experience in the curling, that old Scotch sport played THE MID-PACIFIC 143

At times the dog sledge is the only method of travel. on ice with stone missies that look like that lies, bright-banded, behind a jagged tea kettles. chain of mountains beyond the bay. And the tips of all the peaks along the All the towns are fun and have their north are heavily flushed, as if a bright own particular charm ; you couldn't go pink scallop had been flung across their wrong in any selection. I have chosen winter dress of white. Valdez for my chief conversational back- ground because that is the town I know There are so many places you can go best, because it is so much smaller and and things you can see in the winter has so much more snow and so much less when the brush is weighted down with modernity that it seems to me even snow, and the creeks are bridged with it, more Alaskan, and has for me an even and the bears are all asleep. You can stronger appeal than some of the other go away across the glacier flats and places. through the patches of cottonwood and spruce. You can follow a snowshoe trail, In the winter time Valdez is set in a or you can strike out in the trackless beautiful crystal bowl. There is a tree- snow and break a new trail for yourself. dotted, four-mile glacial moraine at the It's fun to follow a rabbit track to see back and on both sides of it. In front where it may lead you, and occasionally of it lies the bay, looking like a land- a wolf or lynx track may cross your path. locked lake ; and around it all, the moun- Now and then you may see a rabbit in tains, pure white, rise five thousand feet to the sky. Contrary to popular belief, its winter coat of white, or perhaps a it is not dark all winter long in Alaska. ptarmigan, whose feathers also turn white In Valdez it's light in the morning just in the winter. One time my husband and as early as you want to get up. And if I came across a porcupine trail, and pres- you have been out in the woods and are ently we came to the "porkies" them- coming home in the middle of the after- selves, sitting up in a spruce tree, eating noon, you come straight into the sunset the bark and staring down at us with 144 THE MID-PACIFIC

their little monkey faces. Standing on slide, gasping with the unexpected de- one foot, we poked them with our skis light of it. But for those who don't like to see them shamble up a little farther to skid without warning, the slow but and turn around to glare. But usually sures, there are always snowshoes. one sees no form of life. All around you On the dark nights in February after is just white snow, etched here and there the oelichan start running, one may also with bare branched trees ; and all around go fishing. For this sport, the darker the you is silence, such an intense quiet that night the better. You walk along the the swishing of your skis seems almost beach in high gum boots, and when you like whispering in church. come to the creeks, you wade up them, A favorite haunt of ours was a group holding a dip net in one hand and a of miniature mountains that reared their carbide light in the other. You see a heads up near the lake. (Usually the shadow in the water, dart down with lake is too deeply covered with snow for your net, and if you're quick enough, up skating.) These mountains were just comes a little silver fish, or two, or three, right for skiing, neither too wild nor too or a net ful. Another big thrill for you! tame; and many a glorious Sunday we And on the nights when you've been spent there, panting our way to the top, out in the snow all day, or there's a and swooping our breath-taking way to storm, or you just don't feel like being the bottom. Unfortunately, I did most energetic, you can play bridge with of my swooping on the point of my chin people who are experts, you can dance or the seat of my breeches ; but no matter with people who have the joy of dancing which end up you do it, it's loads of fun and excitement. in their veins, or you can sit around the fire and listen to the old sourdoughs One day we went out to the glacier, swapping yarns of the days of '98, yarns four miles across the flats, and sliding that get bigger as the evenings get later, wildly off it on its fresh winter coating yarns that you'll laugh at, shiver at, of snow gives you even more of a thrill sigh at, but that will never lose your when you realize that this was the very interest. glacier the '98ers used as a pass between the mountains to get in to Dawson and There's something about it all that Kluteena Lake in the early days. calls you. The swish of skis, the crunch But the daytime outings are by no of snowshoes, are sounds you will never means the only ones, nor even the ones forget. The feel of the wind in your face that are the most fun. When the moon as you sweep down a hill, the sight of comes out in Alaska, the whole snow- the bare etched trees with their white covered country takes up the reflection background of towering mountains, the and joins with the moon to make of it lure of the zigzag rabbit track—these all a silver glory. The moon is so bright things will stay with you always. And that it casts a deeper shadow than the i f you haven't heard them, or seen them, street lights, and it is strong enough to or felt them, they are something you distinguish near-by colors. Such nights will always be missing. are lovely. You can see for miles away, Winter sports ? Yes, we have them. and the mountains around you shine But you make your own. You don't like molten silver. But, for all its radi- wait in line till the next toboggan comes ance, moonlight is just a little deceptive, up. Remember, if you decide to be a and when you're skiing along, cheerful winter tourist in Alaska, you'll be one of as can be, without seeing it your skis the first of your kind. But isn't there, come to a little depression, and down you somehow, a thrill in pioneering? THE MID-PACIFIC 145

The East teems with life. Its tropical lands and rivers are crowded with humanity.

• •1,,tummosylmoxim • 7u1771 The Changing East By RUSSELL OWEN On Staff of the "New York Times"

44 IMMIrteariAA • • I 1, Irf1tremfmtl TA TA rA iltYfAttlttflylfli nw-vIni At • •vedmr -icaMtrest rartiltricliANo

The lure of the East has attracted when men roamed the forest of a primi- travelers ever since Marco Polo discov- tive Europe ; it has remained imperturb- ered it for an adolescent West. The tall able, inscrutable and aloof. grace of palm trees and the delicate How much this inscrutability is real tracery of bamboo, the clatter of wooden and how much illusory is difficult to de- sandals on strange streets, names that in termine. Some men say they know the themselves are songs, warm nights with a East and its people, that they do not moon like a brilliant lamp, full of dis- differ fundamentally from peoples of turbing calm, and exotic scents—these other races and colors: others, that after things call to the Westerner with a charm a lifetime they cannot comprehend its he cannot always understand and some- mentality. Perhaps understanding de- times cannot resist. The East was ancient pends upon the individual; perhaps also 146 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 147 men who love the East, and have lived people from overseas—which the crude there long, are able to penetrate the placid people in their monotony often seem to exterior of peoples who built empires a justify. thousand years ago, peoples to whom The East teems with life ; its tropical time is an abstraction. Leagues and lands are crowded with men and animals wars, contacts with other civilization, and insects until even on the stillest often convey to the Westerner the f eel- nights it hums with activity. To one who ing that the East is changing, that it is has seen a land where there is no living no longer mysterious and far removed. thing, where silence is the silence of But along with these symptoms of change death, the fertility of the East is over- there are many things which shock their whelming. People swarm like the locusts, way into the visitor's consciousness and everywhere and always there is contact bring the reflection that perhaps Kipling with a million people alien in disposition, was right. and one has the feeling that back of them The traveler on the borders of the are countless other millions, moving, stir- East, however, the man who touches ring restlessly in a land without repose. only the fringe of its civilization, finds Only individuals are calm. in everything a contrast, a mingling of Perhaps it is through this deranging East and West which is disenchanting feeling that some of the fascination of and sometimes disconcerting. The quaint the East derives, no less than from its charm of old towns, the softness of warm singing jungles, where moonlight sifts nights, the call of all that is unfamiliar, through the entangled delicacy of branches is too often marred by the intrusion of overhead, or the sun half illumines dim, the ugliness of Western things, which steaming alleyways of green. Beauty desecrate the landscape, like the bill- there is in abundance, the beauty of life boards in the Japanese countryside. And running fast and forming many strange there are other qualities which repel one things. But there is also the effect of who arrives in the East with a mind full disillusion. of romantic misconceptions. One of the things which travelers There is poison in the beauty of the learn is that the externals of any coun- East and sadness in its surface degrada- try often seem familiar. Hills and moun- tion which not all its weird fascination tains, whatever their verdure, remain can entirely dissipate. People do strange similar, save where some lonely peak like things there—men and women often yield Fujiyama lifts its white head in perfect to the relaxing influences of an alien symmetry from the plain. The famous atmosphere. The indifference of the harbor of Hongkong is no more singu- East sinks into their souls ; the cheapness larly beautiful than the one at the bottom and futility of many aspects of Oriental of the world at Wellington, New Zea- life—judged by Western standards— land ; or that magnificent haven at San cause them to wonder. That this is the Francisco with its Golden Gate, and way for the East to live ; that perhaps the Tamalpais staring moodily at ships that attitude of its races toward existence is pass ; or the waters enclosed by the soft more honest than our own ; that men green hills that rise above Plymouth, should make of themselves beasts of bur- England. den and perhaps be happier in the long run for doing so in such an environment The Whangpoo is dirtier than the East —all this is not easy for the Westerner River and is filled with slatternly junks ; to understand. And part and parcel of it has the same oil tanks, the same ugly this more simple and sometimes cruel factories and warehouses, the same tramp life is a pride of long lineage which often steamers with their blotched and rusty seems to cloak a contempt for the crude sides, for which not even the brilliant 148 THE MID-PACIFIC

Bund can compensate. Parts of Tokyo It is with relief that he sees coming and Yokohama, with their new flat con- around the bow of a huge ship a proces- crete buildings, are as common as a mid- sion of junks. At least they are of the West town and as unattractive. And, East, have authentic local color. They unfortunately, it is these things which the approach so fast in the light breeze that drifter on the edge of the East first sees. they might be racing yachts. So old in Even the hill country of Japan would be type that they make the caravels of Co- reminiscent of Central New York were lumbus seem like modern vessels, they it not for the odd weather-beaten houses are cunningly built for seaworthiness and and the rice paddies full of croaking speed. The need for a new revaluation, frogs. the traveler feels, is immediate. A new But these, after all, are merely ex- respect for the Eastern sailors is born ; ternals, merely the West in East. A talk and one remembers those people out of with any one who has lived long in China Asia who in their small craft populated or has wandered into the interior of Ma- all of Polynesia. laysian islands, brings to the traveler a This reaching out of the East across realization that fundamentally the Orient the sea is one of its most striking mani- still placidly keeps to its age-old customs. festations. China conies to meet the West The antiquity of these is disconcerting on the water. Long before the coast is to the American, who feels that he conies seen hundreds of these tiny, narrow, deep of an adult country yet does not blind and high-pooped craft are encountered, himself with fatuous thoughts of the daring an ocean noted for its treachery, rightness of all Western things. with all the skill of the Norwegian fisher- It is with dismay that in the protected men who sail their myriad small boats and backward Philippines, now crying from the shelter of the Lofoten Islands. for independence, he finds evidences of Clumsy these Chinese junks may seem a contact with Occidental culture extend- to transpacific eyes. But they embody ing back 300 years, and a college older the experience of a thousand years and than Harvard. Long before that the sail the rough water like so many ducks, islands were part of a vast Malayan em- gyrating with dizzy nonchalance. pire whose art and culture has affected The sea plays a tremendous part in all that section of the world. The Philip- the life of the East, and especially in its pines may perhaps hold a precocious in- traffic. It is on the coasts that the tide fant nation needing coddling ; but its mal- of Western influence breaks, overwhelm- ady is dyspepsia, caused by a rapid assim- ing to some extent the character and ilation of Western commercial ideas, development of peoples ; but that tide rather than teething. reaches only a short distance up rivers The contrast between old and new, the and is lost. clinging to ancient ways while adopting Nowhere is the effect of Western ideas bits of modern setting, the strange com- upon the sea front of the East more ar- binations which result, constitute a start- resting than at Yokohama, and perhaps at ling introduction to the East. Yokohama, Osaka. Application of these ideas robs to readers of sea stories, is a name of the water front of beauty and clutters it romance. And yet when the ship moves with the symbols of the mechanical age. slowly up harbor toward the jetties the There is no escaping them on the way to traveler rubs his eyes and wonders. Has Tokyo—trolley cars, fast-moving electric he come thousands of miles to find the trains, silent and efficient ; high-tension water front of Boston ? Those flat-topped electric lines dangling across country buildings, huge cranes, immense factories, from some distant power station ; motor- the bustle of shipping—are they the ro- cycles, automobiles and seemingly all the mantic Yokohama he had visioned ? bicycles in the world. No people in THE MID -PACIFIC 149

Europe can outrank the Japanese in the Quite different is the local "haha" of number of their bicycle riders. the rickshaw boys of Shanghai, even Past dingy and disappointing city shops though the sound sticks, as does the pic- and houses flows a river of humanity, ture of their flapping blue coats over half Western in appearance, half Eastern brown torsos and the curious swing of —a motley throng. That grave, slim and their shoulders as they tirelessly pad their tall Japanese, clattering by on sandals way around the city. The East presses and in girt kimono, has a flat straw hat ; close in Shanghai, though there is little in winter he may wear a derby. Only in in the atmosphere of the Bund, with its the inland towns can one escape from this gray buildings and statues and clubs, to heterogeneous mixture and find unity in suggest it. In Shanghai one gets one's the native culture. first contact with that impoverished hu- man horde beyond—a sight of suffering There is a little garden in Kyoto where and hunger, deformity and cruelty. True, once a Shogun lived and which is now these things exist at home. But they do a temple. Before its gate is a ticket office not strike so sharply on the eye. It is where one buys admission and then puts with pity mingled with repugnance that on felt slippers over shoes—that the one beholds Chinese in greasy sampans temple may not be desecrated. Beyond catching in a net the refuse from the the first building is another where a garbage chute of the ship, drying soaked priestly guide intones his history of the bits of bread and nondescript things on place, for all the world like a subdued the stringpiece of the pier. sight-seeing bus conductor. But in the damp walk that leads between high trees, Shanghai has somehow always been a appears a picture that for the moment synonym of wickedness, a place where projects the mind back centuries. Two the West played in gayety and beyond trees lean together in the silence ; be- discretion. How many stories have been tween them is seen a lily-covered pond, written about its nights, its devilish al- like a splotched mirror hidden in a dark lure ! But the old Shanghai of twenty- and fantastic woods ; the only sound is five years ago is no more. Perhaps among those who make of frivolity a charming that of leaping carp. On the other side way of passing easily through a dull life, sits a tiny old temple, gleaming in the something of it still exists. Certain it is soft sunlight. It is like one of the old that now it does not show itself in public. prints—a reassurance which for a time not even the swift movement of your The war that lately engulfed the city is automobile returning to town can en- not responsible ; the same people live in tirely remove. Shanghai ; nearly all the same clubs and many new dance halls are open ; the Rus- Many countries and cities have dis- sian blondes are certainly Russian and a tinctive sounds (like the automobile horns few might be blonde. But the halls, with of Paris and the rattat of riveters in New their rings of girls wearily awaiting part- York), and the East is no exception. In ners, remind one of the vanished unglam- Japan it is the incessant click-clack of ourous Haymarket in Manhattan. If one wooden sandals. From it there is no can see gayety in Shanghai it must be escape. It anchors impressions against through (the bottom of) a glass, darkly. the shifting background of memory. It is in Japan the signal of an unyielding It was as drab as a "speakeasy" in hold on a convention that not all the Hongkong. Not that Hongkong is dry, country's modernity can shake. When far from it. But mixed dancing in public the Japanese adopt leather shoes uni- seems to be frowned upon by British versally, their island empire will have lost respectability. So it goes on behind a its identity. locked door. An arriving guest is scruti- 150 THE MID-PACI hIC nized through a peephole and is then ad- that show a mixture of Malayan and mitted to sign a book and enter a room Spanish influence. Or in the high hills filled with tables at which are both Cau- of Baguio and the villages beyond in casians and Chinese. A dancing speak- upper Luzon, where native life is much easy in Hongkong, that outwardly prim as it was centuries ago, and where the city—it was too much ! air is cool and the mountains blue with Manila is by far the most beautiful haze, and pine trees grow gaunt against of all the cities in the Orient. From the the sky. top of the University Club it seems half All this is of the surface of the East, hidden in a canopy of trees, green every- its northern part, a surface fascinating, where, a city within a park. And part of compelling, but often disillusioning. One it is exactly that, for around the old, wonders what it is, in these places, that grim gray walls where the wide moat so attracts men and women from the was years ago is the greensward of a golf West. making them, as is said in Manila, course leading to a grassy plaza facing miss too many boats. There is a greater the placid bay. It also has its contrasts, personal freedom in many ways than can for in the neat streets and on the bridges be had in the West, a dalliance with life over the river, where in times past croco- —even among those who work—which diles sunned themselves, automobiles and the heat cannot entirely discourage. West- wagons drawn by tiny horses pass the plodding carabao, the water buffalo, in ern women undoubtedly find there an from the country at a pace of two miles expansion of personal life. Their many an hour. And yet Manila, one finds, is servants cost little. Men pay assiduous not the Philippines. attention—for white women are scarce. Country beauty must be found in the But exotic Oriental beauty is offset by nipa huts nestling in the groves of tall many disadvantages. Certainly to the coconut palm ; in the roads along which casual visitor there seemed more pain in the water buffalo are driven home at night, the East than romance. Perhaps in the youngsters lying lazily on their broad most inaccessible islands, the inland coun- backs ; in the grotesque shadows from a tries, where life is not so affected by fire in a bamboo compound ; in the green Western influences, there is a greater hills that rise from the sea, and in villages magic.

On the water oft of a Malay village. THE MID-PACIFIC 151

The late Sir Joseph Carruthers (left) presenting an Australian flag to the Pan-Pacific Union through its president, Hon. W. R. Farrington.

1U1!...11MItILL — _ _ w • IVITC71117/ • • • • • • •VIN,p1.41,Aksi4 • The Hoorn Islands . By the Late SIR JOSEPH CARRUTHE RS, K.C.M.G. • • AnutlilnirnirntyntrniintratinuniEiTi • r AN p1ip17111 • •1tiNtgaa• 4 • raA 1111! 7

On the way to Hawaii from the Fijis glasses fail to reveal any houses or other the Canadian Pacific mail liners pass signs of human habitation, though on one fairly close to a small group of islands or two occasions I and others inclined to shown on the charts as "The Hoorn believe that we saw the smoke from fires Group." One sees them about the first or in the wooded parts—a possible indica- second day north of Suva. I have passed tion of habitation. But inquiries from these islands about twenty times going to ship's officers only elicited the reply that and from Honolulu. active volcanic agencies were known to Inquiries made to ship's officers elicited exist on one of the islands. a very bald statement of facts relating to However, I am of an inquisitive nature the islands. For instance, passengers have and so I searched out for any books or been informed that there was a very small published statements relating to these native population and only one white man mysterious isles. In the course of my —a French priest. Also the ship's charts research on the life and work of Captain show only two islands—Futuna and Cook, I ascertained that Captain Wallis Alof a. Morcona telescopes and Zeiss of the English Royal Navy had visited a 152 THE MID-PACIFIC third island of the same group somewhere Influenza had never been known on the about 1760. Moreover, the journal of his island or if ever introduced it had been voyage had been published a little later of so mild a character as not to be at all than that date. I read this account of troublesome and certainly in no instance Wallis' voyages and from that I ascer- were there any fatalities from it. Typhoid tained that the island named after him fever had never been known and even "Wallis island" carried a fairly large dysentery, a dangerous disease in the population at the date of his visits there. South Seas, had never been epidemic or He twice made prolonged stays on the severe in form. Measles was known but island and was very hospitably treated by only in a very mild form. Very little its queen ruler. venereal disease had ever occurred and On British naval charts, four islands then only very lately. Consumption was at least were shown, including Futuna, hardly known and there was no startling and about 120 miles away, Wallis island death rate of children. and two smaller ones. Crime of any kind was absolutely un- Beyond being entertained by the inter- known and consequently no jail existed, esting narrative of Captain Wallis for a although there was a small police force time I paid no further attention to these under the French government. The na- islands, which apparently were taken tives seldom, if ever, quarreled. Petty possession of for and on behalf of the thieving was prevalent, though not seri- French nation and people many years ago. ously viewed. All the saline I was on the alert to find The whole population of the islands out more about these little-known places was Christianized in the Catholic faith, that lay right on the route between Aus- and a cathedral and other Catholic tralia and Vancouver via Hawaii. churches existed and were well attended Then quite unexpectedly, in 1929 I was by the natives and were under an or- introduced to Mr. Julian Braile by an ganized mission. American friend, Dr. W. F. Bailey, a graduate of Harvard university, U. S. A., Food was in abundance, chiefly fruits who was for some time government and vegetables of the best island varieties. medical officer in Tonga, on Wallis island, Fish also were abundant. The only food and lately on Fiji. Dr. Bailey informed imported was flour and tinned provisions me that Julian Braile was the leading via Samoa or via Fiji from America, or white European in Wallis island, having from Australia or Europe. lived there as a trader during the previous Braile told me that the natives were 22 years and still carrying on the bulk very healthy and prosperous, owning of the trade of the islands. So I had a practically all the land, the sale of which long talk with Mr. Braile and he equipped was not now permitted by the French me with a store of valuable information colonial government. The islands were which I will now repeat as taken down by attached to French New Caledonia and me at the time. the governor resided at Noumea. Good Mr. Braile said that the population of timber abounded on Futuna. Native Wallis island was then about 5,000 souls, houses were well built and were similar while Futuna isle had 2,000 population. to those on Samoa. The natives were In both places the population was increas- noted for their beautiful tapa and fine ing. Mr. Braile accounted for this by the mat products. fact that there were no neighboring is- The climate was conducive to good lands with any close intercourse so that health, mild except in the wet or hurri- the very isolation of these places pro- cane season, from December to March in tected them from the introduction of new each year. But the hurricanes were only or dangerous infectious diseases. slight and did little damage. THE MID-PACIFIC 153

The natives in their original pure state principal settlement or town on Wallis were Polynesian, speaking the Tongan island is Matautae, which has five other dialect on Wallis island and the Samoan villages adjacent to it. dialect on Futuna. There is a good port and jetty and the Like all other Polynesians, they had coral reef makes a safe haven lagoon be- kings—one on Wallis island and two on hind it. Futuna. The mission headquarters is at Lano, Rats were the only indigenous animals on Wallis island. the horses had increased largely. Only Futuna has a principal village called one motor lorry was on the island. Sigawe, but its port is practically an open An extinct volcano existed on Wallis roadstead. island. It was called Lalo Lalo. The Now I have given all this detailed in- crater of the volcano was filled with fresh formation from Mr. Julian Braile mainly water. It was half a mile across and, to show by palpable evidence of this according to the natives, it was bottom- character that a fairly long period of some less. Plenty of wild ducks frequented form of civilization has contributed to this lake ; also tropic and bos'n and other these results, of good health, abundant sea birds. food supply, education and well ordered The fruits on the isles included many government. I think the case on these varieties of bananas, yams and breadfruit, aspects is thereby well proven. pineapples, mangos, wild oranges, limes But now I come to another side of the and lemons, custard apples, avocado pears, story—and it is rather a startling one. I granadilla and other passion fruit. Coffee, confess that I have deliberately held it cocoa and vanilla grew well. The chief back to the last, as a vivid background to product was copra. All these fruits and the picture so far presented. vegetables betoken some high form of Mr. Julian Braile's information to me agriculture. on this other aspect was supplemented by From what I saw in passing Futuna statements from Dr. Bailey, who was and Alofa, I am inclined to think that medical officer for a period on the islands, Braile's information to me re agriculture and also by statements to me by an old could only relate to Wallis island, as it and well educated lady about 80 years of was flatter country than the mountainous age, residing on Suva after long years of islands of Futuna and Alofa, which ap- residence on Futuna island. This is what parently could hardly be cultivated. I learned from these three different Futuna and Alofa are close together, sources. but Wallis island is about 120 miles away Between 150 to 200 years ago a large and Hoova island is only small and negli- number of Chinese landed on Futuna gible. Of outside islands Niaf oo or Tin island in a large junk that got blown out Can island, is about 140 miles to the east, of its course in a typhoon in or near the Samoa 280 miles northeast and the Lau China sea. group of Fiji probably 300 to 400 miles Naturally these shipwrecked Chinese to the southeast. Rotuma lay about the were in a desperate plight when their same distance on the south. derelict junk was blown ashore and The Catholic mission has sole charge wrecked. But the natives treated them of educational work and almost all the with great kindness, and as there was no natives can read and write their own hope in those days of these Chinese sail- language and a little French or English. ors ever getting back to China, they had Revenue is raised by a head tax of 12 perforce to stay and make their homes as shillings per adult, $10 a ton export tax strangers in a strange land. Luckily there on copra, 2 shillings a bottle on alcoholic were no laws or customs to insist on their drinks and 3 per cent ad valorem. The deportation, and had there been, there 154 THE MID-PACIFIC

were no means of carrying out those take over the reins of government into laws. their own hands. Mark this—the date given was 50 or Anyhow, the common people either in 60 years prior to the visits of Cook or a mood of panic, or on account of some Bougainville to Tahiti or Samoa, though wrong inflicted on them, rose up against the claim is elsewhere made that in 1606 the old immigrant Chinese and massacred a Dutch navigator first saw and noted them to the last man, sparing their off- these islands. Wallis, the English captain, spring, however. came along over 150 years later than I was told a lurid story of the death 1606 and Cook about 160 years, and in of the last of these immigrants beaten to the interval only these Chinese and their a pulp with bamboo rods and then carried shipwrecked junk happened to come to through the native villages for all to see. Futana. Now what is the point in this little As to the natives' capacity to fit dates piece of practically unknown history of for epoch-making events, I think that is these islands which lie right in the center an accepted fact in the recorded history of the South Sea Polynesian and Melane- of every Polynesian group who based sian groups of islands ? their calculations on generation tables. I venture to suggest that with this first Anyhow, the dates given to me from influx of a group of Chinese into these three sources concur in giving somewhere islands referred to—we have a possible about 200 years ago for the Chinese land- source of the introduction into Polynesia ing. of diseases common amongst the teeming The Chinese were many, probably 100 peoples of southeastern Asia. Yaws, for in numbers, and they stayed on at Futuna instance, a disease common in Asia and and married native women and left be- in parts of Africa but unknown in Europe hind them a half breed progeny with slant and America and a very deadly disease eyes and a Chinese cast of features. to group-up people not immunized to it. That is a fact, so I am informed, quite Moreover is it not well understood marked and self-evident to anyone visit- nowadays that yaws was for over 100 ing Futuna. As to Wallis island, 100 to years almost clown to about 10 years ago, 180 miles away, the Chinese stamp is not erroneously regarded as a venereal disease at all pronounced in the features except and because of that error it has been re- in a few cases there. garded as the basis of all the charges The Chinese immigrants, for so one is against European navigators of introduc- justfied in terming them, made themselves ing diseases somewhat similar to it, in useful and agreeable to the natives of symptoms and their course, but now Futuna. Coming from a race of born known and proven to be quite uncon- agriculturists, they taught the natives bet- nected with it. ter agriculture. Also as clever boat build- The early part of this article shows ers and carpenters and joinery workers benefits which possibly accrued to the they improved the native race in this class natives of Futuna and Wallis from the of work. They also could read and write good services of the Chinese immigrants. —or at least some of them could—and The latter part of this article shows some they explained this to the natives and left possible evils which may have accrued examples of their character writings. from infections brought into the Pacific But all this contributed to the later un- islands through the same immigrants. doing of the Chinese, since as they gained Here in any event is a case of a con- influence with the ruling chiefs, they siderable influx of Asiatics into a small thereby created a fear in the minds of Polynesia group centrally situated and in the common people that they intended to communication with Tonga, Samoa and wrest power from the old kings, and to possibly Tahiti and the Hawaiian islands THE MID-PACIFIC 155 long before any Europeans settled there though not infallible sources. At the or even visited them. very least some further research is worth while by others and younger men. I gave The evidence of this Chinese migra- Dr. Lambert of the Rockefeller founda- tion—accidental, it is true—is amply tion institute for tropical diseases a demonstrated by the stamp left on the resume of the facts herein stated so that features of the offspring of the Chinese he might go further into the matter on with the natives of the one island Futuna, any visit to be paid to these islands by on which until their death, they resided him in the course of his duties. He has and cohabited with the indigenous natives already published a brochure of his in- there. The facts tend to show a certain vestigations into health conditions on acquired immunity to influenza and other Rotumah, which is an island in the Fiji diseases which in other parts took heavy group fairly near to Futuna. I hope later toll of the natives in later times. on to learn of his research work in the I admit that my views are based on in- Wallis group. (In the Honolulu Star- formation given to me by trustworthy Bulletin, July 2, 1932.

Houses used by copra-makers. 150 THE MID-PACIFIC

Rubber and tin are the mainstays of the Malay peninsula, and the very existence of the depar - ment stores depends largely on the prosperity of these industries.

THE MID-PACIFIC 157

• • •INVVIII • Department Stores of British Malaya By WALTER BUCHLER In Export Trade and Finance.

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The first department store in British ing lines, and practically everything is Malaya was opened by two planters 60 imported, there being few things made years ago. In fact, Malaya is the pioneer in Malaya, except silk sarongs (native of the department store development in dress). Prices are very reasonable, as the Orient. There are now four of these Chinese dealers offer keen competition leading establishments, with a number of and are constantly cutting prices, even branches in smaller towns, three having selling certain articles at a loss, making their headquarters in Singapore and one up the difference on other sales. The at Ipoh and Penang. department stores, however, pay little at- No special effort has yet been made to tention to what the Chinese are doing in cater for the native trade, and the depart- their stores, relying more on the quality ment store here depends mostly on the and class of articles they handle. The business it gets from the European and Chinese will sell anything and everything, American residents both in Singapore as no matter where it comes from as long well as throughout the country. The as they can make a quick turnover. They Malays, Chinese and Indians, however, give no guarantee of quality or satisfac- have during recent years become more tion, whereas the department store will and more westernized and are showing always take an article back if the customer an increasing preference for Western is not satisfied for one reason or other. goods. This tendency has been, and is, of Their slogan out in Malaya, as elsewhere, material benefit to the department stores, is "Value for Money ;" the Chinese, who especially in the towns where European constitute the principal traders of the influence has been and still is strongest. country, try to get what they can without The Chinese in particular likes to ape looking far ahead. There is scope when the European in his midst, and to be able business picks up again for a department to do so gives him considerable satisfac- store that will not restrict itself to west- tion in so far as it makes him appear on ern merchandise, but will cater also to a higher social scale than his countryman the needs and preferences of the Chinese who does his shopping at the small in their own private life and customs. Chinese store. Were it not for this factor Low prices would have to be a feature in the trade of the department stores here, of such an establishment, with separate they would be faring a little worse than sections for the more costly merchandise. they actually are at the present moment, Department stores in Malaya owe their due to the poor condition of the rubber success, which is evidenced by the fine and tin industries, on which the prosperity buildings in which they are housed, to of the peninsula almost entirely depends. the development of trade and to the times The department stores of Malaya of boom that this country has witnessed handle practically every article used in from time to time. Their prices were the home as well as outdoors. Household not raised during such prosperous periods effects and textiles are among their lead- and they depend more on big returns. 1 58 THE MID-PACIFIC

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Whilst they buy from most countries, as The value of a catalog is very pro- a rule, being British, they give preference nounced in Malaya, as there the average to British goods. There is, however, no westerner does not feel inclined to walk preferential tariff, and merchandise comes round the stores after spending a whole into Singapore free of duty, except, of day in an office ; instead, he will glance at course, such products as come under the the catalog sent him (or her), drop a monopoly (wine, liquors, and one or two chit (note) round, and order on the other things). strength of what the catalog tells him. Most of the catalogs issued by the depart- Nor can it be said that the Europeans ment stores in Malaya are in English, in Malaya are very conservative or they are intended to appeal primarily to swayed by nationalism when it comes to the European and to the educated Chi- the purchase of any article : they buy just nese and Malay, as well as Indian, both what they want and according to their of whom understand English quite well. purse. As an example, pianos sold in Special catalogs are occasionally printed Malaya are, to a great extent, made in in Malay and are intended for natives Shanghai and owing to its proximity and living in out-of-the-way places, where suitability of the wood available. for the there are no schools and limited facilities climate and cheap labor, other makes find for shopping, as for instance, in Borneo, it difficult to compete in this market. The Serawa and some places of Sumatra and coolie class among the Chinese, who are Java. very strong in number in Malaya, as well A conservative estimate would put the as the poorer Malay, seldom come to the percentage of Europeans and westernized department stores but almost invariably Chinese in Malaya buying from depart- patronize the Chinese or Malay stores. ment stores at 75 per cent. At one time The native is gradually becoming more the tendency was for Europeans to order educated and more civilized in his ways from England and patiently wait for their through the instruction received at the goods, but this has decreased to a great schools, with the result that an increasing extent, as people are no longer inclined to number of the Chinese and Malays like wait or to remain in ignorance as to what to have foreign merchandise and clothing. they will receive. Another factor that If a native aspires to employment in a has helped to develop the trade of the European office or up-to-date Chinese department store in Malaya is the limited merchant's office, he must wear western number of specialty stores or stores of attire as suitable for the tropics (white any kind catering for the westerner, as drill or other cotton material). compared with shopping facilities and The proportion of literacy among the competition in other countries. people of Malaya is fairly high and news- The scope—as far as shopping is con- papers are closely read. This has led de- cerned—of the native and Chinese is partment stores in Malaya to being wider, but only for a limited number of among the leading advertisers in the articles and products. Still, the tendency country and to their receiving a satis- of the Chinese and Indian shopkeeper factory return for the money so expended. immediately to put up the price of an Catalogs are also issued from time to article when he sees a prospective buyer time, fully and well illustrated, and sent interested in any particular merchandise to customers on their mailing lists, these with the view to safeguarding himself in being compiled from people calling in, the event of haggling, is also having the from directories, and other sources. Cine- effect of bringing the Oriental in Malaya mas, handbills and posters are also used to the department stores ; he will even pay as media for advertising. 10 cents more and shop there and be 160 THE MID-PACIFIC gratified at the one and equal treatment The three department stores in Singa- he receives from the staff, no differentia- pore do a very large mail order business, tion being made in nationality, Western both with Europeans, government of- or Oriental, in religion, or in attire. ficials, as well as the better educated and Whilst the native in Malaya likes to richer Chinese and Malays living up- look into the windows of shops and de- country. A large trade is done with peo- partment stores, he (and she) generally ple living on rubber estates and tin mines, prefers to come in and inspect things especially in house furnishings. The there. He knows exactly what he wants postal service in Malaya is splendid and to buy and the amount he intends spend- as good as any in America or Europe. ing, and he will have exactly that sum of Merchandise is ordered on the basis of money in his pocket or in her hand bag. catalog and sent through the post C.O.D. He will not go a cent above that sum, or the money may be sent in advance to- and no matter how clever the salesman or gether with the order. Quite a good busi- saleswoman, it is seldom that one can ness is done in gifts and presentation persuade or bluff a Malay or Chinese goods, the Chinese and Malays being fond into buying some other article in addition of giving presents—silver, watches, jew- to that for which he or she expressly elry and big bedsteads inlaid with mother- came in. of-pearl (in the case of wealthy people) The system of granting credit has been on the occasion of marriages, births, etc. very strong in Malaya in recent years, Department stores in Malaya sell very and still is practised to a certain extent. few lines on the basis of brand (chop as But department stores have lost money on it is called here), except such articles as account of it and are now inclined to re- toilet goods and a few other materials. strict themselves to cash payment, credit Appearance, price and brightness are the being given only to people known to them chief factors in the sale of most merchan- or in government service. In some ways, dise handled by them. the credit system is inevitable owing to The staff employed by department the fact that Europeans change their stores in this country consists principally clothes nearly every day, keep very little of Eurasians, Chinese and Malays, with money about their person, as they are Europeans in charge of the various de- attended to by "boys" (servants) to a partments. The Eurasian is perhaps the much greater extent than in other coun- smartest of the subordinate staff, the Chi- tries. It is thus dangerous to have money nese are very clever and obliging, and the about one's clothes, as one is apt to for- Malay is inclined to be lazy. get it or the "boy" may be tempted to re- The future of the department stores in lieve one of one's small or large change. Malaya depends entirely on the position Cheques are accordingly frequently used of the rubber and tin industries, and as for paying for purchases at department these improve, so will also the depart- stores. ment store business improve.

THE MID-PACIFIC 161

.4 house boat on the Yangtze.

"11KPC71 PCNIVIIVITVIICNIVITC71 • • • • • Dyke Builders of the Yangtze By ALEXANDER HUME FORD Director, Pan-Pacific Union, Honolulu .1 ti_li nClununitCmPulatifluCknOnianunCIThaUnnlat. On the Yangtze Kiang, China, Novem- but we see no vehicles on it, and for a ber 9, 1932. We are in real China now, good reason. The bullock carts here have way up the Yangtze in the Communist four wheels built of rather thin planks country above Hankow. Here at the vil- with razor-like rims that cut deep into lages the women still toddle about on the mud of the roadway. They would tiny feet, not nearly so large as the probably destroy an unmetalled dykeway swollen ankles. in no time. China should now order the We go ashore to inspect the dykes and use of broad rims to preserve her dykes. the one-time Communists inspect us. We The village life is ever moving along clamber up the slippery mud banks from the new dyke, and even along the banks open sampans, and find a delegation of the Yangtze the village is continuous quietly awaiting us. for miles, and before this ribbon-like vil- lage, comparable only with those of the Away back from the river is the dyke, French habitats on the banks of the St. for at a distance from the river channel Lawrence. The houses are of stone and the swirl of the flowing waters is not so dangerous in the flood time. The new the roofs of tile. dyke, several feet higher than the old, is I cannot understand why the people splendidly built. Its top is a roadway, wished to be Communists. On a hill we 162 THE MID-PACIFIC

are passing was worked in white stone bering my boyhood days, expressed a the Communist statement, "We take longing for one more mess of crabs be- from the rich and give to the poor," a fore I died. Dr. Wu did the rest, and promise kept only at first ; later everyone after the feast we took a hot bath ; we was robbed, rich and poor alike ; and needed it. here Baker was held captive until ex- To return to our Yangtze bank vil- changed at last for wheat. Some of the lages. Along the dykes there is life. The dykes in this region were built by hun- temporary straw shacks are being re- gry Communists in exchange for Ameri- placed by brick houses, and there is an can flour. From these banks the passing air of prosperity springing up. The steamers were potted by the Commu- housewife is now preparing the fuel sup- nists, and very successfully ; our boat ply for the winter ; it is simple. The looks as though it had had smallpox. straw from the wheat is brought in by There are a number of bullet holes in the the bullock carts and mother calls little walls of my cabin and we have picked up daughter to help her weave these into several spent bullets on the floor. The wisps three feet long, which are folded captain tells us that operations are still neatly and piled up against the walls of going on in a minor way and that we the house, to keep the house warmer and shall tie up somewhere for the night. to be drawn on from day to day for fuel. Our lights are dimmed and screened at dusk. In China, by the use of very thin-bot- tomed metal pots, a wisp of straw, prop- There is a constant procession of sail- erly burned, will quickly boil a day's din- boats in this upper region of the Yang- ner, for the Chinese (because of econ- tze. Sometimes it is an unbroken proces- omy) fry food quickly on a hot surface. sion of quaint native junks, with all sorts For rope the villagers weave the long of sails, but moving swiftly, as there is strips of bamboo bark and it is nearly a strong upstream breeze. as strong as hemp ; and its cost is infin- Several times our little junk that plies itesimal. From the banks of the river, from the steamer to the banks has nar- clay is taken for the making of bricks rowly escaped being crushed by one of and the moulding of tiles. The country this fleet. is self-contained—for the land is fertile, and after the flood of last year, bears I have learned that the Communists bumper crops. have an appeal to me. I have just heard the international song at one of the vil- There is no work for the peasants lages, and it is to the same air as "Mary- from now until spring; plenty of idle land, My Maryland." So, of course, I time for getting into trouble. The Rus- joined in, as a loyal Southerner. Now I sians used to have the making of their am explaining, but then I am good at koustari ware to keep them busy during explaining. the long winter months. The teaching of the simple arts of carving might be more All along the banks great nets, twelve useful here on the upper Yangtze than feet across, are let down into the river the schools for children, which do not and hauled up again with a possible as yet exist. The youngsters romp about catch of fish, often only a minnow or a free and happy, most of them just get- shrimp or two, which reminds me that in ting ringworm, which covers the whole Hankow Dr. Wu Lien Teh and I re- scalp and is unsightly, or just getting neged on an important lunch to enjoy a over it and so achieving immunity for crab-fest in our room at the Yangtze-Ki- the future. They are all warmly clad in ang Hotel. I had seen the crabs fresh padded cotton and delight in following from the river at the landing and remem- the wonderful foreigner, whom they sub- THE MID•PACIFIC 163

Roads as well as dykes in China are being built with famine labor. consciously dread. Touch one when he is here goes for another exploration into not looking ; he turns his head, sees the the unknown. "foreign devil" and scampers away, fol- We have just come back from a visit lowed by all his playmates. A few yards to the Soviet dyke above Singti. The distant they stop and laugh uproariously. Chinese Soviets are business men. They And every time a foreign devil ap- consented to build the dykes in their proaches the comedy is repeated, until at territory in their own way and on their last, the foreign devil wearying of the own terms. The terms varied, for last sport, the children take it up, touch him August, when the flood season came they and run away, screaming with laughter. allowed the water to come within two They are a happy lot. feet of the then dyke level, then stopped Life is primitive on the upper river ; work and sent a delegation to the Chi- the village auto is a sled with runners nese engineers to state their terms for and is drawn over the mud roads on a new contract. As the lands would have open fields by a gentle buffalo ; a small soon been overflowed, the engineers gave boy leads him by a bamboo rope, one in, the Communists won. The next day end of which runs through the nostril 2,000 Communist laborers were at work of the submissive buffalo—it makes him on the dyke. submissive. This Soviet dyke, running for many I can see little difference between the miles, is about twice to three times as ordinary Chinese and the Communists wide as the average Chinese dyke, and (now that I know that they sing "Mary- the Communists were paid, of course, land, My Maryland" for inspiration). about three times as much per running Just now the Communists are drifting foot of dyke, and even more, for when back as their leaders are not keeping the engineers measured the number of their promises—who does keep promises cubic feet of dyke work completed, the today? Soviet council always added fifty per cent The whistle sounds for noonday to make sure that they were not being "chow," all Chinese ; and I am beginning cheated, and would not go on until the to like it as much as the foreign food, so flour was turned over. 164 THE MID-PACIFIC

Many of the Chinese troops are mere boys who seem to find much enjoyment in military life. They are apt to be found with the army having the most plentiful supply of food. THE MID-PACIFIC 165

portion of the great army of dyke builders has been employed by the Famine Commission in reclamation work.

We travel with a small army to protect that could be seen miles away. In this us. The first boatload ashore is part of way signals were transmitted from tree our military escort, and we each have a to tree ( four miles apart) throughout bodyguard of soldiers, all mere boys and the Soviet region, and if the advancing fond of fun and laughter. We examine military was numerous the communists their Mauser rifles and joke with them. disappeared to bob up later when the There were 2,000 Soviet soldiers recently coast was clear. captured in this region and added to the Federal army. They were glad to leave The Soviet dykes are possibly the best the communists, as food was running low. along the river. They are fully wide enough on the top to admit of adding In the Soviet days our engineer guide another seven feet in height, and the was the only government engineer allowed engineers now seem .to agree that with to visit the dyke in building. The Com- the compressed area of river in flood munists worked for a day or so, then time the river will rise some seven feet held meetings for a day or so, and to higher than it did in 1931, when it rose these meetings our Chinese engineer was 53 feet above low-water level ; so that sometimes invited, and at the point of a the dykes must eventually be raised to gun forced to sign new agreements. After a 60-foot level at least, instead of the a while, when he visited the Soviets, he present level of fifty-three feet above learned to carry a company of soldiers low water. with him and met the Soviet contractors at the river's bank. We are ashore again at Wailechu, the once stronghold of the Communists. We Now all the Soviets are supposed to be even climb the mountain to their recent driven several miles from this region— lair and stand in the rifle pit, from which but they move rapidly. There were signs they fired on this and other passing everywhere of their communication sys- steamers. There was a couple of miles' tem. A rope would be carried to the top walk along the dyke, for which flour was of a tree and attached to a movable arm paid, but it had not been repaired ; the 166 THE MID-PACIFIC

Soviets had Communist meetings to at- the Yangtze for the night. Then more tend and the dyke was really high enough Soviet thrills tomorrow. anyway, they thought, so they just col- We anchored all night just below Kinli lected the wheat rations and rested. in the lee of a Japanese patrol gunboat, The ministers from Nanking on the and so felt secure from bandits and boat tell me that the reason there are no Communists. The pilot is nervous about small peasant industries is that the local navigating by moonlight anyway, and taxes are so high that no one dares start yesterday he ran us on a sand bank. A anything to make money. The Soviets government steamer soon got us off, but in one region left great lakes filled with sometimes at low water one spends days fish, it is said a million dollars' worth, in contemplation (and swearing) when and there are ideal fishponds everywhere, his boat sits on a sand bank. but if the people catch the fish and dry Our program for the day had been an them there is a tax, then freight charges eight-mile hike across a peninsula while to a market and more taxes at the other the steamer made a twenty- or thirty- end. It seems that China cannot, by inter- mile detour. national agreement, levy a tariff of more We knew now we were in the real than 12% on imports (except luxuries), Soviet sphere, for on the river bank we and the Japanese can land coal at Shang- found human skulls, left there by the hai at two-thirds of the cost of produc- Communists, as a warning, after the tion in China mines. They easily under- human trunks had been thrown in the sell Chinese-mined coal—the foreigners Yangtze. It was a way they had to per- buying the Japanese coal and reselling it suade recruits to join their ranks. In to Chinese willing to buy. In America, their gunplayfulness the Communist army of course, a big tariff would be put on deleted the lighthouses on the river of coal and seven million jobless would their keepers, so that in this section nearly freeze this winter ; but a few mil- there are no lighthouses, which is em- lionaires would have more to give for barrassing now that the water is at low research work. So that's all right—for —low level. Yet one must admit that the somebody. Communist-built dykes are among the best on the river. They contain about It is growing dark and the "boys" are double the prescribed amount of earth, going around drawing the shades over all paid for at highest rates in American our doors and windows, for the merry, flour or wheat. merry Communists of this region delight in firing at passing steamers during the In the villages we passed through we found at least three pikemen on guard. night, and bright lights aboard help their These are to be augmented by two fed- aim. eral soldiers per village, and the soldiers We are to take a walk tomorrow across will also be tillers of the soil when the eight miles of recent Soviet territory ; our Communists are elsewhere. On the ar- soldiers will go with us. The steamer rival of Communist soldiers they are goes around a big bend, a trip of thirty expected to lead in the defense of the miles, and we cut across a neck of land. village. This rehabilitation of Commu- nist-deserted areas is going on rapidly, We lost two of our people ashore, but the villagers glad to return to lands that they are found at last. The trip is be- had once been theirs. ginning to have its thrills, and we are to penetrate farther and farther into Soviet We hiked under the close guard of our China. Soon I presume our engines will soldiers and were allowed neither to speak stop and we will be silent and lightless on to the villagers nor to take photographs, THE MID-PACIFIC

A river steamer on the Yangtze.

for the region is still in the war zone that turn up the earth three or four feet, and Communists are about, even min- used in China, then commercial fertilizer gling with the villagers. added. The agricultural output would be To an outsider China might appear doubled, and if a market could be found Communist. The villager strays 'away to for this China would become rich. foreign lands, and if a failure returns to In the upper Yangtze region the river his village and is taken care of. There is the only means of real transportation ; are literally millions of villages in China. the rest is just tiniest retail delivery. A Often a village belongs to one family, small wheelbarrow with a tiny front and as those of the same name can never wheel that seldom touches earth, is the intermarry, the wife must be chosen from chief means of conveyance in this region. another village. This, the Chinese believe, The father sweats at the handles behind improves the breed. The younger set that and his eight- or ten-year-old son is har- is going away and becoming educated nessed in front and does his share of the return, sometimes, and do occasionally haul to market. The wheels are almost effect some change in conditions that have razorlike and cut deep into the soil. existed for a thousand years. I have seen There is room in China for miracle- plows with steel blades that might turn working changes in mode of transporta- up the earth to the depth of a foot. A tion. few years ago the owner would have been Chiang Kai-shek, guided by his Weles- mobbed as a desecrator of tradition. In ley wife, is tackling the project of rehab- these villages important enough to have ilitating the twenty-odd millions of flood a main street, only the simplest needs of sufferers. He is reestablishing them in life may be purchased. There is room villages that adopt some of the ideas of for potential uplift in standard of living Communism and a few advanced meth- that will yet make China the world's ods and it seems to be working out well. greatest consumer. Imagine one of the The villagers don't mind and the Com- twenty-mule team plows used in Hawaii munists return fairly well satisfied, after 168 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 16')

Along the Yangkingpang Canal, Shanghai, near the mouth of the Yangtze. being fooled to the top of their bent by we have not been fired at, but I have half the Communist leaders who have en- a pint of bullets picked up in my state- riched themselves at the expense of their room, leftovers from the last trip. The dupes, then retired from the party to last trip of this boat was a running fight rest content. In this section a general up and down stream, with the result that nicked the workers on the dykes fifteen on her arrival at Hankow every mother's cents a day to support his army of pro- son, that could, deserted ; so that we had tection ; it netted him forty thousand dol- to use the soldiers to persuade volunteers lars a month. Chiang Kai-shek learned from the Chinese hotel and elsewhere to of it and the general is now in jail. The attend our wants aboard. It is a pick-up peasants are getting to like Chiang Kai- crew all round and we were advised to shek—he is the first general they have bring our own bedding and to make up had who tries to help them instead of our own beds. merely taxing them down to starvation. The National Government is taking It looks now as though Chiang Kai-shek every care of its guests, but there are is solving the problem of turning the obstacles, and we are glad to have the Communists back to the land and away soldiers with us. from their leaders. We are going downstream now. We Our next trip, tomorrow, is up the ascended laboriously at perhaps eight Han River, the scene of the great fighting miles an hour. We are skimming down against the Communists, and where fight- the low-lying banks of the Yangtze at a ing is still going on, but we must inspect rate of sixteen miles an hour. So far the dykes. So we ascend the Han River 170 THE MID-PACIFIC

in tiny launches and hope for the best. with pikes. The women fared a different I am learning something of inner China fate. The Reds needed ammunition, so —and I like it ; there is little monotony. they traveled with a company of camp I trust we do not run aground, for it is followers who were loaned to the enemy the custom of bandits and Communists, in exchange for rounds of ammunition. both, to loot all stranded vessels clean, Then there was the Amazon regiment, a even to the stripping of the clothes from thousand or more women whom they the backs of the passengers. It will be forced to work on the dykes and charged recalled that our own Henry Wadsworth the same rate for their services that was Kinney lost his trousers to the Chinese paid to the men, although they could do bandits in Manchuria, and has never for- but half the amount of work daily. Their given China. I wish to keep my trousers men they let pull up grass and for this and all my clothes while I remain in this the National Government had to pay full region ; it is cold, and without my rations of wheat. But the dyke had to trousers I would perish. The bank of the be completed before the 1932 flood Yangtze in winter is no Waikiki beach. came in August, or disaster might fol- low, three thousand miles of dyke, much Some of our soldier officers aboard of it fifty feet high with a base a hun- tell us wonderful tales of their cam- dred and fifty feet in diameter, the most paigns against the Communists while the stupendous engineering feat to be accom- building of the dykes was progressing. plished by man in all time, a greater feat Our engineers are also officers in the than the building of the "Great Wall of army. One of these sat with us in our China." On rainy days the dyke builders, bullet-riddled cabin and unburdened him- there were a million of them working at self of his tale concerning the dyke on one time, got sufficient rations for the the south bank in the Red area which he day's necessity ; not so with the Reds. If had constructed at the cost of many en- it rained for a week they laid off the en- gineers and laborers who were captured tire time and demanded full pay, or the and beheaded by the Communists. work would stop. The Communists invented new excuses No White soldiers were allowed to be daily for chopping off heads ; they could sent to the south bank of the river. Our not waste ammunition and bullets, so engineer received a note that he would they used a hatchet. First permission be executed, as he was looked on as a had to be secured from the Federal Gov- capitalist — the President of the Soviet ernment to unofficially deal with the Republic in China getting four dollars a Reds ; then permission from the provin- month salary, and the private soldiers cial governor, which was withheld and eight dollars per month. made much trouble. Now these Commu- When there was a difference of opin- nists had their own president and execu- ion, the Reds simply seized the White tives, and even a capital. The headman section bosses and chopped off their and autocrats were the returned students from Russia who had imbibed Commu- heads. Finally when the work was near- nism and established schools to teach its ing completion the Whites put Red bosses principles. That was all the schooling in charge of the work and withdrew the Communists in Russia ever got. their engineers and began to withdraw When the Reds made a raid they carried all their men sent to guide the Red off the young men and women ; the workers. Then it was that Capt. Baker young men they put in the army that was seized, his ransom collected ; then always bore the brunt of attack, one sol- the Reds roared with laughter and de- dier with a rifle to nine captives armed manded thirty thousand dollars more in THE MID-PACIFIC 171

Millions live on junks on the great rivers of China. wheat, and got it. Capt. Baker, a white- army has marched south as he marches haired man of 70, is now a resident at north, and suddenly descends on the rich the Navy "Y" in Shanghai. rice fields of half a province and for Chiang Kai-shek got tired of the days their soldiers and all followers har- double dealing of the Reds and advanced vest the White rice crop and carry it on his army. The Reds had observed that their shoulders up into the mountains he paid for all work in wheat rations and where they plan to winter. they deserted by the thousand, returning At present the army of Chiang Kai- their allegiance to the National Govern- shek is engaged in putting down bandits ment. It is said that there are five re- and Communists in the upper Yangtze- turned students from American universi- kiang region. The bandits join the Com- ties in the supreme council of the Soviet munists and fraternize with them so that Republic in China. Their colleagues in it is difficult to tell how many Commu- White China are not proud of them. nists or how many bandits are killed. But The Chinese engineers who dealt with it really doesn't matter ; they are both a the Red Chinese had to make their first nuisance in China. visit in disguise and a number of them There are stories of young engineers gave their lives—but the dykes had to be who had to lie down in the bottom of built. launches as the Communist bullets flew No one knows today how many Reds over their prostrate forms, but they there are in China. It is said there are made their surveys. To these young en- forty thousand in the Red army, two gineers, all mostly graduates of Ameri- thousand or more armed with rifles, for can universities, is due the planning of which they have to skirmish for ammu- the 3,000 miles of dykes. There are at nition, but these Communists are elusive. least a dozen M. I. T. (Massachusetts In- Chiang Kai-shek marches north and stitute of Technology) men aboard, and supposedly annihilates them, but the a score from other American universi- 172 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 173 ties, as well as a few Oxford and Cam- munists, yet there is no hatred among bridge men. All of these have had their these men of their fellow Chinese who trials and tribulations with the Reds and are Communists ; only a hope that they some of their number have fallen under will return to the national fold and help the axe, or hatchet, of the Chinese Com- protect China against all outside enemies.

Coolies waiting for the river steamer. 174 THE MID-PACIFIC

Viscount T. Inouye, who has been president of the Pan-Pacific Club of Tokyo since its organi- zation in 1923, is a member of the House of Peers and a professor of engineering at the Imperial University of Tokyo. THE MID-PACIFIC 175

1"ICTIVI- ,_,...,..1 P:71 1 .UrlarJM 17nCinVITC:70:70■7177nCiar.I 1V, At the Pan-Pacific Club of Tokyo Program of November 18, 1932 Chairman: Viscount T. Inouye.

lananCULathalinahannatanCinfInClnanCiCALaini nucuicd tcvca7n Ina. !cainln1t

Speaker: His Excellency K. C. Boa, aggeration to call it a land of promise representative of the Manchukuo Gov- for the future. Manchuria is large, ernment in Japan. wealthy, and fertile. It is twice the size Viscount Inouye: We are very fortu- of Japan, almost as large as France and Germany together, and about equal to the nate to welcome today to this Club His Excellency K. C. Boa, representative of six states of West America—Missouri, the Manchukuo Government in Japan. Nebraska, Iowa, Minnesota, and the two He is a native of Peking, graduated at Dakotas. the age of 19 from the University of An area of 382,000 square miles with Tientsin, and since then has been en- only 30,000,000 inhabitants ! Such vast- gaged in the Finance Department of the ness, such sparseness of population, and Chinese Government. In 1919 he was the hope of future development, make it sent to America to negotiate in connec- naturally an object of envy to those coun- tion with the wine and tobacco loan. In tries vexed with an overflowing popula- 1921 he attended the Washington Con- tion. Thirty per cent of Fengtien is still ference as an adviser, and from that time available for development, fifty-five per he has been the political adviser of Chang cent of Kirin, and seventy per cent of Tso-ling. In 1931 he was the mayor of Heilungkiang. Apart from the celebrated the special district of the Eastern Prov- soya bean cultivation, the agricultural, inces and of Greater Harbin, and since mining, forestry and other industries are September this year has represented the potential wealth that remains to be ex- Manchukuo Government in Japan. I am plored. The aptitude for trade, inherent sure you will all be interested in listen- in the Manchu race, when equipped with ing to him. scientific knowledge and scientific train- Mr. Boa: I feel it a great honor to be ing, leads us to estimate that in three to called upon by your chairman to make a five years hence Manchuria's foreign short speech, and my subject will be the trade should reach a volume at least five financial conditions of the newly founded times that shown by the most recent sta- Manchukuo. tistics. Her agricultural products should Language fails to describe the suffer- be worth $3,000,000,000. ings of the Manchu people during the Manchurian finance under the mili- twenty or more years of wanton taxation tarist regime was a confused muddle. It and extortion by the militarists. The was not administered according to scien- financial condition of Manchuria was tific principles. The militarists, in order hopelessly confused, but nevertheless to exercise their might in bringing misery Manchuria was much better than China. to the people and ruin to the country, Manchuria occupies a preeminent posi- kept on increasing their armaments re- tion in the world as a country richly en- gardless of everything, and the army dowed by nature, and as the natural re- maintenance funds drained the poor un- sources are as yet mostly undeveloped fortunate citizens. According to statis- from an economic standpoint, it is no ex- tics, the military expenses occupied more 176 THE MID-PACIFIC than eighty per cent of the total income. mental functions in order to localize This is a recognized figure obtained as duties and responsibilities), (2) Nine the result of investigations, but we have kinds of taxation as a source of state no knowledge of the extent of unassessed revenue (this was a system of classifica- expenditures. According to my personal tion of taxation in order to replenish the knowledge, the land-owning farmers in state revenue) ; and (3) Nine items of Fengtien at the time, in addition to giving state expenditure. This was a limitation up their annual income, had to borrow of state expenditure to certain specific money in order to meet the levies imposed items. by the officials. If such was the lot of Such state regulations all savor of a the farmers, the ordeals of the laboring dogmatic principle, and are in accordance and commercial classes may better be with the rules of orderly progress. They imagined than described. The old Chi- are not at the slightest variance even with nese militarists (the Nanking Govern- the scientific study of finance. Centuries ment of today is of the same brand) only of Chinese history reveal the fact that ob- knew money, but not administration. In- servance of such a spirit meant a rich and deed, they were unfit to discuss financial strong nation, while its neglect brought administration. dissension to the country and poverty to Since Manchukuo has been founded, the people. The golden rule observed by all politics have been based upon the spirit the wise financiers of the ancient East of regeneration. The explanation of was akin to this spirit. The one essential "Wang Tao" politics is that they are na- requirement is : "When the people are tionalist politics. The financial admin- contented the nation is bound to be rich ; istration of "Wang Tao" is a rationalized when they are discontented the nation is financial administration. Naturally, it is bound to be poor." Thus the divine kings not at variance with a scientific financial and worthy princes religiously dedicated administration. their administrative labors to the ideal of "letting the ruler be thin so long as the The neutralization of income and ex- people are fat." This sufficiently brings penditure is a fundamental principle of home the fact that in the annals of Ori- finance, and corresponds to the principle ental political philosophy, the "economic of "expending according to the limit of prosperity of a nation" and the "eco- income," or to put it more colloquially, nomic annihilation of a nation" have long "cutting the coat according to the cloth." since held a position unshaken by the ages. This is an acknowledged integral part of In pursuance of its aim to regenerate "Wang Tao." Considering the general an addled militarist government and to principle of financial administration— alleviate the sufferings of the people, the which is in reality the financial policy— most important task which Manchukuo from the standpoint of "Wang Tao," the has taken upon itself since its foundation earliest and most systematic is naturally is the laying of the corner stone of its the "Chou Li." The book of "Chou Li" financial administration, and the formu- represents the model for the politics of lation of the budget covering the first the Chou Dynasty at the time of its year of Ta T'ung. In the book of "Chou ascendency. The organization of admin- Li" it says : "Shih Tien is to enrich the istration and the provision of government state, to appoint the officials, and to are categorically treated with clarity. afford livelihood to the people." "Shih With regard to financial administration, Tien" is the prototype of the modern the book provides : (1) Eight depart- budget system. ments for the Central Government, and The most important part of the budget eight bureaus for the Local Government for the first year of Ta T'ung is the (which means the division of govern- neutralization of income and expendi- THE MID-PACIFIC 177 ture. Against the annual income of tion of the menace from soldiers. At the $113,308,055, the budget provides the same time our tax-collecting organization, annual expenditure of $113,308,055. In after some remodelling, is bound to ex- other words, the people will not be called tirpate those evils resulting from mili- upon to shoulder more than their share, tarist corruption. The receipts from dues or to meet any contingencies. What is and taxes of the Maritime Customs and more noteworthy is the appropriation of Salt Gabelle are certain to increase by not over $28,600,000 for the army and leaps and bound. Such guarantees for navy, this figure representing only one- the public loan should suffice to ensure third of the estimated annual expendi- confidence in the right to use the loan. ture. In other words, only 39 per cent The Open Door and Equal Opportu- of the estimated annual income is set nity constitute our foreign policy. We aside for military and naval expenses. have had occasion to announce this be- The balance of 61 per cent of the esti- fore. Upholding public confidence on the mated expenditure is apportioned to de- basis of this policy, we have not only fray the expenses of administration and floated a loan on the Japanese market re- governmental establishments. The foun- cently, but also issued a statement to the dation of Manchukuo having been capitalists of Great Britain, the United brought about as a regeneration after States, France and Italy, welcoming the twenty years, it has not yet gained its participation of their investments. equilibrium. In the face of present con- On this there need be no doubts or ditions, the immediate necessities are to hesitation. The Quadruple Consortium create a more healthy people out of a naturally finds no voice with regard to diseased race, to regulate state revenue the flotation of the recent loan. In 1919- and expenditure, to construct a whole- 1920, after the Great War, the Banking some government, and to inculcate a new Consortium of the Four Powers suc- spirit into the people. Such is the policy ceeded the old Consortium of Five Pow- of "Wang Tao." It is also the financial ers, forming a New Consortium, and administration of "Wang Tao." issued the so-called statement on eco- At the beginning of the new era it is nomic policy towards China. Mr. T. W. imperative that we put an end to the old Lamont, the representative of the Ameri- work of destruction, and make a start on can bankers' group, made his eventful the road of reconstruction, such as the visit to Japan and China in 1920, when extermination of banditry, improvement I was one of those in the Peking Gov- in the machinery for the maintenance of ernment to confront him. In 1921 Mr. peace and order, construction of national Stevens, the American, then became rep- highways to facilitate communications, resentative in Peking of the new Con- and the reclamation of the areas devas- sortium. The Chinese Kovernment, how- tated by the recent floods in North Man- ever, did not officially accept the state- churia. These undertakings are most ment of the Consortium, nor did La- important and should be proceeded with mont's efforts in China afford him com- immediately. Whilst on the one hand the plete satisfaction. Stevens' long resi- formulation of the budget must needs dence in Peking was not instrumental in limit the incumbencies of the people, on making any progress with the Chinese the other hand these problems demand Government. Moreover, while the Ameri- immediate solution. The only way, there- can group was proceeding in good earnest fore, is to float a national loan of $30,- with the Four-Power Consortium, a 000,000 on the foreign market. It is group of capitalists in Boston and Chi- gratifying that the purposes to which cago gave the American group an im- this loan will be put are proper ones, mense setback by making China a loan of and not for such an end as the aggrava- $11,000,000 in gold, known as the Ameri- 178 THE MID-PACIFIC

can Wine and Tobacco Loan. Though All the countries of the world, belliger- the clamors were loud for the exclusion ent and nonbelligerent alike, were eco- of Manchuria and Mongolia, the tumul- nomically very active during the great tuous Washington Conference came to no war, though most of their activities were definite ruling either for or against the unproductive in nature and were closely question. connected with the destructive war. As With regard to the treaties entered into a consequence of the war the wealth of before Manchukuo was founded, though the world, either in the form of gold or their continued observance has been as- in credit, was transferred either to neu- sured to the nations concerned by the tral countries in Europe, such as Holland new State, yet where any stipulation is and Switzerland, or to belligerent coun- in conflict with the spirit of the new tries outside Europe, such as the United State, Manchukuo will not allow such States of America, Japan and Canada. stipulation to bind it in its legitimate The abnormal economic activities, both acts. inside and outside the continent of Eu- Program of December 9, 1932 rope, stopped as soon as the armistice Chairman: Viscount T. Inouye. was signed in 1918. All the countries of Speakers: Shintaro Kawashima, Jap- Europe started a stringent protective anese Minister to Greece ; Albert Wilder policy based on the old theory of self- Taylor, a mining engineer. sufficiency. Restrictions and prohibi- Viscount Inouye: tions of imports and exports in both Today we have two money and merchandise, and enormous guests of honor, and for the first speaker increases in customs tariffs, were the I have pleasure in calling upon His Ex- phenomena prevailing throughout Eu- cellency Shintaro Kawashima, the Japa- rope. The currencies of all the belliger- nese minister to Greece, who has just re- ent powers depreciated, and anti-dump- turned after three years' service in that ing measures were taken by many states. country. He has represented Japan on several occasions at the League of Na- To counteract these policies of exclu- tions. Today he is going to speak to us sion and reprisal the League held a on the subject of the world economic financial conference at Brussels in 1920, depression. recommending, among other things, the necessity of stabilizing all currencies. In Mr. Kawashima: I feel it a great honor 1921 it held an economic conference at that President Viscount Inouye, our old Geneva, which recommended the restor- friend and colleague at the assembly of ation of the principle of freedom of com- the League of Nations in 1930, has given merce which prevailed before the war. me an opportunity to speak before this In 1927 there was the World Economic important gathering, and I am going to Conference at Geneva, which confirmed say something about the present world the resolutions of the former conference. economic depression and its remedies. On the other hand, the people of I have been closely connected with the Europe placed great faith in the slogan economic activities of the League of Na- of "Reconstruction." The United States tions since its establishment, and since was still boasting of unbroken prosper- 1925 almost every year I have had the ity, independent of Asia and Europe, and opportunity of participating in the dis- Japan was happy in post-war economic cussion of economic affairs at the assem- expansion, availing herself of the depre- bly. Despite the continuous efforts of ciation in her currency in 1925. It experts, representing all the members of seemed that the world might revive and the League, the world is faced with the prosper without much difficulty in spite most serious economic depression ever experienced. of the great war. In reality, in 1927 the ratio of economic activities in Europe THE MID-PACIFIC 179

had been restored to the level of the pre- (1) The abnormal fall in the price of all war epoch, and in 1928 showed an in- merchandise, especially of agricultural products. crease of 5 per cent compared therewith, (2) The one-sided distribution of gold. The though this increase was not sufficient United States of America and France now pos- in view of the 7 per cent increase of sess about 70 per cent of the total amount of gold existing in the world. population in Europe. But the peoples of the world were sanguine and had great (3) The existence of huge war debts, which are roughly estimated to be $110,000,000,000. hopes in the future. The conference at Lausanne last July cut them down to a workable sum, but that was condi- Suddenly came the great financial tional on American acceptance, which now crisis on Wall Street of New York in seems rather difficult. October, 1929. Its effect reached all the (4) Continuation of disproportionate arma- money markets of the world, and since ments after they great war. then we have witnessed a gradual retro- (5) Reestablishment of economic barriers to gression of world economic activities. international commerce, contrary to the recom- This depression became more acute in mendations of the conferences in Geneva in 1930. In September, 1931, the delegate 1927. The principle of the open door and equal opportunity, allowing freedom of activity, ought of Great Britain astonished the assembly to prevail in all parts of the world. of the League of Nations by announcing her sudden abandonment of the gold (6) Abnormal fall in the price of silver, causing a decrease in the purchasing power of standard. British dominions and depen- silver-using peoples in Asia. dencies, such as Australia, Canada, In- All these things together are causing dia and Egypt, followed the unfortunate the world economic depression, and if example of the mother country, and the coming World Economic Conference Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Greece, is to find a remedy it must discuss them Siam and Japan followed the action of all together and thoroughly. All coun- the senior in the financial field. The tries will accept certain sacrifices for cases of Japan and Greece were the most their general and ultimate benefit. The striking, for the currency depreciation question will not be approached from was more than half within a year. The only one side. only three countries which have not In my opinion, the most important changed are United States, Netherlands cause of the depression is the lack of and Switzerland. confidence among international commu- nities, and this is being aggravated by a It is said that the number of unem- new spirit of ultranationalism resulting ployed persons in all the industrial coun- from the great war. It will not be cured tries of the world has reached 30,000,000. easily by one or two international con- The world output of coal in 1931 was ferences. But the human race must 1,244,000,000 tons, in comparison with progress, and its progress must ulti- 1,343,000,000 tons in 1913 and 1,464,- mately rest upon mutual reliance and 000,000 tons in 1928. In 1931 the total good will throughout the world. It is volume of foreign trade fell to the 1913 most necessary for Japan that she should level, and in 1932 was estimated to be have such mutual reliance and good will about 25 per cent less than the 1913 vol- with countries bordering the Pacific. ume. The price of all merchandise has Viscount Inouye: I now have pleasure fallen, and the general index number is in calling upon Mr. Taylor, who is, like estimated to be about 10 per cent less myself, a mining engineer. He is one of than the prewar figure. the oldest residents in Korea, where he What are the causes of such world- has lived for 36 years. When President wide economic depression? They are Hoover went to Korea as a young min- generally admitted to be as follows : ing engineer he was with Mr. Taylor. 180 THE MID-PACIFIC

Mr. Taylor: I deem it a great honor to of the Chinese reaction increased, Japan have been asked to address you today, strengthened her guards and made plans and while my business is principally to meet the inevitable struggle. mining, I do not think I will touch upon The Lytton report cannot alter the fact that subject now because last night I that Japan, now a powerful, well-armed, talked to a group of mining engineers united people, is lacking within her island and am rather worn out on it. But I boundaries the essential raw materials would like to give the practical idea of a necessary to maintaining her position in practical man on the Manchurian crisis. the modern world. She has no iron. Man- Many fail to remember that Japan was churia has great deposits. Her coal sup- thrust into the maelstrom of modern com- ply is inadequate and most of it inferior petition against her will by the United in quality. At Fushun on the South Man- States and the trade-seeking nations of churian Railway, is the largest coal seam Europe. The wall of isolation that for in the world, in some places 500 feet thick. three centuries under the Tokugawa Sho- Japan has equipped this deposit of splen- gunate had protected Japan from outside did steam coal with a most adequate mod- influence and given her internal peace, en- ern plant, up-to-date to the minute. Japan abled her to develop her peculiar civiliza- has no oil field worth considering, and tion to a point where all the members of was keenly disappointed when Southern society had a place and sufficiency in their Saghalien, which she acquired from Rus- sphere, limited though that sphere might sia by the Portsmouth Treaty, failed to be. Under this system the operation of yield the expected oil. Fushun coal field natural laws produced a fixed birth rate has vast deposits of oil shale, and located and a static population. there is one of the three commercially suc- When the barriers were removed, Japan cessful oil-shale distilling plants in the saw that she must adopt Western civiliza- world—the other two are in Czecho-Slo- tion or perish. This action upset the bal- vakia and the oldest in Scotland—though ance between food supply and birth rate, you will find no mention of this fact in and this nation was forced to seek new any except technical journals. sources of food supply and to enter the A strong nation with her hands on three field of manufacture and commerce to essentials of modern progress—iron, coal preserve its very existence. With outside and oil—not to speak of food supply and contact the standard of living rose, and timber, will not easily relinquish her grasp the birth rate and population increased and sink into the position of a third-class tremendously. The waging of two suc- power. It is wise to disabuse our mind of cessful wars, and commercial participation the idea that the movement in Manchuria in the great war gave a remarkable impe- is an exploit of the military party. It is tus to manufacture and trade, and at this the united effort of the entire people, point the old lack of raw material began though at times clever statesmen, in order to make itself more keenly felt than ever to pacify foreign criticism, are willing to before. point to a military bogey. The nation is Already the development of Manchuria as united over this as they were over the and its great wealth began to attract the annexation of Korea, and the urge is earnest attention of the Chinese them- stronger, for the need is now greater and selves, who had previously been content to the possibilities greater. The recognition let the Japanese develop the country by of Manchukuo before the release of the encouraging the immigration of the teem- Lytton report emphasized her determina- ing population of Shantung. Soon Japan tion to hold what she had at all cost, and recognized that unless she took measures thereby nullified to a great extent the pos- to consolidate her acquired rights in Man- sible tangible results that might be ex- churia, she might lose all. As the virulence pected from its recommendations. BULLETIN of the PAN-PACIFIC UNION An unofficial organization, the agent of no government, but with the good will of all in bringing the peoples of the Pacific together into better understanding and cooperative effort for the advancement of the interests common to the Pacific area.

CONTENTS

NEW SERIES, NO. 156 , FEBRUARY , 1933 Story of Dr. Wu Lien Teh ... . 3 Industrial Hygiene Project--Third Pan-. . 4 Pacific Women's Conference,Dr.E.E.Osborne The School Child and the Social Crisis. . 6 Sir Joseph H. Carruthers 10 Hawaii Is Truly America 10 Pacific Area Needs World Amity 11 Woman Suffrage in the Pacific 12 George Norton Wilcox 15

OFFICERS OF THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION

HONORARY PRESIDENTS

Herbert Hoover President of the United States S. M. Bruce Vormer Prime Minister, Australia The Prime Minister New Zealand Chiang Kai Shek President of China Dr. A. C. D. de Graeff Governor-General of Netherlands East Indies The Prime Minister Canada Prince I. Tokugawa President, House of Peers, Japan His Majesty, Prajadhipok King of Siam P. Ortis Rubio President of Mexico Don Carlos Ibanez President of Chile M. Pasquier Governor-General of Indo-China

HONORARY VICE-PRESIDENT Theodore Roosevelt Governor General of the Philippines OFFICERS IN HONOLULU President—Hon. Wallace R. Farrington Former Governor of Hawaii Director—Alexander Hume Ford Honolulu HONOLULU Published monthly by the Pan-Pacific Union 1933 AIMS OF THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION

From year to year the scope of the work before the Pan-Pacific Union has broadened, until today it assumes some of the aspects of a friendly unofficial Pan-Pacific League of Nations, a destiny that both the late Franklin K. Lane and Henry Cabot Lodge predicted for it. The Pan-Pacific Union has conducted a number of successful conferences ; scientific, educational, journalistic, commercial, fisheries, and, most vital of all, that on the conservation of food and food products in the Pacific area, for the Pacific regions from now on must insure the world against the horrors of food shortage and its inevitable conclusion. The real serious human action of the Pan-Pacific Union begins. It is following up the work of the Pan-Pacific Food Conservation Conference by the establish- ment of a Pan-Pacific Research Institution where primarily the study and work will be along the lines necessary in solving the problems of food production and conservation in the Pacific Area—land and sea. Added to this will be the study of race and population problems that so vitally affect our vast area of the Pacific, the home of more than half of the peoples who inhabit this planet. The thoughts and actions of these peoples and races toward each other as they are today, and as they should be, for the welfare of all, will be a most important problem before the Union, as well as the problem of feeding in the future those teeming swarms of races, that must be well fed to preserve a peaceful attitude toward each other. The Pan-Pacific Union is an organization in no way the agency of any Pacific Government, yet having the good will of all, with the Presidents and Premiers of Pacific lands as its honorary heads. Affiliated and working with the Pan-Pacific Union are Chambers of Commerce, educational, scientific and other bodies. It is supported in part by government and private appropriations and subscriptions. Its central office is in Honolulu, because of its location at the ocean's crossroads. Its management is under an international board. The following are the chief aims and objects of the Pan-Pacific Union : 1. To bring together from time to time, in friendly conference, leaders in all lines of thought and action in the Pacific area, that they may become better acquainted ; to assist in pointing them toward cooperative effort for the advance- ment of those interests that are common to all the peoples. 2. To bring together ethical leaders from every Pacific land who will meet for the study of problems of fair dealings and ways to advance international justice in the Pacific area, that misunderstanding may be cleared. 3. To bring together from time to time scientific and other leaders from Pacific lands who will present the great vital Pan-Pacific scientific problems, including those of race, and population, that must be confronted, and, if possible, solved by the present generation of Pacific peoples and those to follow. 4. To follow out the recommendations of the scientific and other leaders in the encouragement of all scientific research work of value to Pacific peoples ; in the establishment of a Research Institution where such need seems to exist, or in aiding in the establishment of such institutions. 5. To secure and collate accurate information concerning the material resources of Pacific lands ; to study the ideas and opinions that mould public opinion among the peoples of the several Pacific races, and to bring men together who can under- standingly discuss these in a spirit of fairness that they may point out a true course of justice in dealing with them internationally. 6. To bring together in round-table discussion in every Pacific land those of all races resident therein who desire to bring about better understanding and coopera- tive effort among the peoples and races of the Pacific for their common advance- ment, material, and spiritual. 7. To bring all nations and peoples about the Pacific Ocean into closer friendly commercial contact and relationship. To aid and assist those in all Pacific com- munities to better understand each other, and, through them, spread abroad about the Pacific the friendly spirit of interracial cooperation. PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN 3

STORY OF DR. WU LIEN TEH By Alexander Hume Ford Director of the Pan-Pacific Union

On the Yangtse Kiang,China, workers in Mongolia and Manchuria. November 9, 1932. At present he is head of the Quar- antine Service of China.He and his At one of our visits to a comple- wife have both written several bocis., ted dyke, accompanied by a company, in English. of Chinese soldiers,for there were bandits in this region, we learned At Hankow we found the mayor of that the village near this dyke was the city is also named Wu.This mayor named Wu, and the inhabitants, on of a city of over a million is just learning that we had Dr. Wu Teh 29. He is a Princeton Man and a with us,at once crowded forward to splendid fellow. I am coming back meet him, for they were all rela- to Hankow to have his help in organ- tives.It seems that the Wu's moved izing a Pan-Pacific Club in that down from Honan,or were driven out city. He was private secretary to of a northern province nearly a Chiang Zan. Kai Chek and a good one. thousand years ago.Mostof the Wu's So one day General Chek said, "I did not stop trekking until they have cleaned the Communists out of reached Canton; others continued Hankow and I need a progressive on; some in recent years as far as young man for Mayor. You are it". Honolulu. Dr. Wu Lien Teh himself And so it is that young Wu now was born in Singapore,but the Wu's rules one of the largest cities in once they began moving from their China. ancestral home in north China,where they had resided for thousands of We had tea with General and Mrs. years, have kept on "moving". Chiang Yan Kai Chek and the Gener- al remembered that for several years It was pathetic to see the aged he had been an honorary president head man of the village stroking of the Pan-Pacific Union and Mrs. Dr.Wu's hand as the representative Chiang Kai Chek,a Wellesley gradu- of the hundred other villagers,all ate,chatted with me about the Pan- in rags, for they had one and all Pacific Women's Conferences and lost everything in the flood of last expressed a hope that at some time year. This little Wu village had one of their conferences would be lain here, half way between Honan held in China when she would give and Canton, for five centuries, no every assistance. So will Mrs. T. other Wu's suspecting its existence V. Soong, wife of the acting pres- until our Dr. Wu Lien Teh's arrival. ident of China. He acknowledged relationship and was escorted to the grass thatched We are just off again up the Han uncompleted temple where lay the River, I believe. This is the area village gods,just as they had been that was infested with Communists. rescued from the flood. It was They have been driven out and their urged by worshippers on their knees lands are being resettled under that Dr. Wu restore the temple but government supervision. Dr. Wu is not a devout believer in the gods of China and compromised I think novel have dined or wined by contributing to the rebuilding with every president of China, in- of houses for the homeless villag- cluding Dr. Sun Yat Sen. I think ers. his apostle, Chiang Kai Chek, has perhaps the strongest face. He is It will be remembered that at the but 42 at present and barely looks Pan-Pacific Surgical Congress in it. He is virtual ruler of China 1929, Dr. Wu Lien Teh headed the and will again, it seems certain, Chinese delegation and was a guest be president of a United China. at the Pan-Pacific Research Insti- tution in Manoa Valley. He is a A people who will build in less Johns Hopkins man and has frequent- than a year some three thousand ly visited,Hawaii.He acquired fame miles of dyke,all of which rise 57 as the head of the plague prevention feet above the low water level,are 4 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN

liable to accomplish anything. Dr. through both the bandit and the Wu and I are advocating using the Communist region. We do not navi- dykes as automobile roadways. Most gate at night but lie low during of them are quite wide and firm the dark hours, and in the wide enough; in fact the several miles part of the river far from shore. of dykes around Hankow are used as Until recently when General Chiang an automobile highway, and many of Kai Chek cleaned out most of the the dykes are also modern` roadways region no one cared to make the trip. between great cities on the banks of the Yangtse-Kiang. I am missing Dr.Wu Lien Teh,for he gave me wonderful care and taught Dr.Wu Lien Teh is one of the out- me how to care for myself in this standing men of China.At the great part of China. I now travel with banquets he is seated within two or my own bedding, etc. We are to in- three of the chairman, and even spect dykes on the upper Yangtse very near the President of China. for a few days and then return to We lived together for a month in Hankow for the beginning of our Manoa Valley, and for more than a rail trips to the interior and week we have shared the same state- then to the Grand Canal. Daily I room and we are still friends --- am having conferences with the en- fast friends. Now that speaks well gineers and officials on the pro- of Dr. Wu Lien Teh. posed Pan-Pacific congress here of road and waterway engineers. The Dr. Wu and I have some plans for dykes provide, potentially, 3,000 introducing Hawaiian products in miles of auto road and the crying China, he and his friends at the need of China is good roads to business end of it.I think it will bind the country together. succeed. He believes in making money. I wonder how it is done. There area number of Wuls on the boat, but they spell their names Dr. Wu is leaving us to return to with a different character than his duties in Shanghai and we are that used by our "Wu" and his fam- on a little boat that ascends the ily of a million or so. And Dr. Wu rapids.She is riddled with machine Lien Teh is one in a million, in gun bullet holes as she passes any land.

INDUSTRIAL HYGIENE PROJECT Third Pan-Pacific Women's Conference, Hbnolulu, August, 1934 Letter 1. From Ethel E. Osborne, International Project Director The University, Melbourne, N. 3, Australia

The response to the questionnaire Had we been fortunate enoughin on Industrial Health for the 1930 the earlier happier days before the Conference brought forwardinforma- economic crisis to obtain endowment tionofvalueand focussed attention for the Pan-Pacific Women's Assoc- on the extensive sources of infor- iationfor research purposes as many mation and statistics, which area:- of us hoped,we might look to carry vailable for our purposes. The re- out definite scientific research in sponses further served to stress the this field. With the limitation of great width and scope of the subject. the resources at our disposal and Since that Conference, I have had the fact that women, willing and extraordinary opportunities of com- qualified to contribute to this in- ing closely into contact with work- vestigation,are already overworked ers and research in this field in and probably underpaid, if paid at widely different countries. The all for their social efforts,I con- great importance of industrialhy- sider that the best line of action giene has become even more patent before the Industrial Health inquiry to me and the special economic and is to sift out the most urgent prob- industrial conditions throughout the lems in this field in a qualitative world today add urgency to the need manner, to find what efforts are be- of dealing with certain phases. ing put forward to the elucidation PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN 5

of these from the national aspect, I should like particularly to have whether international investigation your views and those of other compe- is in progress concerning them and tent national consultants on the finally to endeavor to direct,pio- problems which can,withinthelimits neeror accelerate national govern- of our definition and resources,be ment action to regard to them and most profitably undertaken through if necessiry to carry our united the Industrial Health Project. stimulus into the international sphere. From these replies I shallendeav- orto formulate a detailed question- me must, too, bear in mind that naire if this appears to be the best there are in existence great research line of action. facilities, which have not always that close "personal" approach and The industrial health questions insight into these problems which raised in my address and others, we enthusiasts can bring to bear. which appear quite definitely of I believe that certain of these or- immediate importance are the fol- ganizations will welcome our quali- lowing: tative pioneering and will recog- nize that we may be the channel of 1.Exploitation of child labor es- making their own resources more pecially girl labor and its available for the public good. We bearing on health, due to the should also consistently and united- intense specialization, the re- ly endeavor to contribute that "spir- petition work and the increas- it" which only occasionally and with ing mechanization of modern in- difficulty is found to suffuse gov- dustry. ernmental or departmental action. A qualitative survey of what If we are to do this we must con- information is available and in centrate quite definitely on one or regard to which industries. I more outstanding problems of the should like special notes in moment. this regard as to the textile and engineering industries. To women there can be no more ur- gent problem than that of the indus- Are figures obtainable which trial welfare of children and this would make possible a sound should be a useful starting point for analysis of the relation between our continued efforts. The present the age of the workers and the world economic crisis is endowing percentage of employees of that this rroblem with added importance age? Can we get differentiation and as I had the honor of presenting in this respect between male and this social problemto the Assembly female labor? of the League of Nations in October, 1932,1 am asking that my address to Has there been any definite the Assembly should be regarded in change in these relations during the nature of a circular letter on the last ten years?Is any defi- the subject. nite change traceable now as due to the economic crisis and the In making this suggestion I trust efforts to obtain cheap child that each National study chairman labor? shall briefly survey the different problems of industry in relation to Are figures obtainable which health which are raised therein from will give light on the problem the conditions existing in her own of the incidence of accidents, country. illness,absenteeism and wastage of juvenile workers? I ask that this survey shall be critical and constructive and that it shall be forwarded to me at the 2.Has there been any reduction in earliest possible time. I should the school and industrial health like to receive the first instalments services as a result of the pre- even if only brief and sketchy, by sent economic crisis; e.g.medi- the beginning of April, 1933, at cal, dental, welfare, etc. The University, Melbourne, N. 3, Australia. 3.Is there a comprehensive med I- 6 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN

cal examination,not merely cer- be available correlated to occu_ tificationcf young people going pational grouping of mothers? into industry and is there cor- relation of this with their school health records? 7.Are serious economies being con- templated in the educational system of your country which 4 That social insurances exist in might result in the entry of regard to sickness and unemploy- children into industry at an ment and has there been any change earlier age? in the benefits under these as a result of the present situatior2 8.Are there any indications of in- creased malnutrition among mak- 5.Are married women, owing to the ers or children of workers as a unemployment of their husbands, result of the present economic entering the field of wage earn- situation? ers to any great extent?

9.Has your Government used to any 6 ;would figures and information in extent the industrial health re- regard to the birth rate and ma- sources of the International La- ternal mortality a n d morbidity bor Office?

THE SCHOOL CHILD AND THE SOCIAL CRISIS A Speech Delivered at the 9th Plenary Session of the League of Nations Assembly October 11, 1932 By Ethel E. Osburne (Australian Delegation)

(Note to HonolUlu editors: When I was also appointed.The resolutions was in Honolulu in 1930, preparing passed involved little. At the con- the program for the Second Pan- clusion of the reports of the 5th Pacific '"omen's Conference, I was Commission (Social and Humanitarian much impressed by the unique vision Section), to which I had had the and foresight which had promoted honor of being appointed Vice-Pres- the Governor's Advisory Committee ident, I addressed the Assembly on on Education's "Survey of Schools this subject. and Industry", a survey into the relations between industry and edu- Knowing the pioneer interestmant- cation in the territory. As far fested in this problem by Hawaii,I as my experience has shown, Hawaii venture to send a verbatim report was the first community to realize of my speech.) the vast significance of this prob- lem and its intimate bearing on the great economic crisis into which At last year's Assembly, in the the world was just entering. My Children's Welfare Section, I di- further travels demonstrated the rected attention to what appeared lethargy of many countries in this to me one of the most vital prob- matter. When I had the honor of lems of the moment,that of the in- being appointed as Australian Dele- creased social dangers to the child gate to the Assembly of the League and adolescent brought about by the of Nations for 1931,1 brought for- world economic crisis and present ward the subject of the many-sided unemployment conditions.I made re- peril under which the school child ference to the recommendations of and early adolescent is placed by the International Labor Office Re- reason of the world crisis. port of last year, and asked the Committee to place on record its This problem has been raised again appreciation of the special danger at this 1932 Assembly, to which I in which boys and girls were placed PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN 7

from 'the points of view of employ- while the older members of the fam- ment, education.,nutrition and health ily, fathers, adolescent brothers and urged that the Child Welfare and sisters, remain idle at home Commission should direct attention for want of work.These little gir1.1 to these problems. No definite re- are in ready demand to make their solution or recommendation was contribution to the industrial ma- passed in regard to this problem, chine. Every year of age increases but the matter was incorporated in the rate of pay,and does not neces- the report to the Assembly. I find sarily, on such processes as those that the very interesting brochure I have referred to, mean increased which has just been published under production -- in fact much of this the Health Section on"The Economic production is dominated by the rate Depression and Public Health" con- of the machine and not by the actual tains many references to this urgent personal rate of the operator. It problem.The social developments of stands to reason, then, that these the last twelve months have in no girls are early turned out of em- wise diminished the acuteness of ployment, especially when further this world problem of the school responsibilities in addition to the child and the child about to leave higher pay are placed on the em- school. Its education, its nutri- ployer, such as payment of insur- tion, its outlook in life, possi- ance, etc. The hopeless, reckless bilities for employment, in fact, depression which is taking posses- are still problems just as press- sion of the unemployed adolescent, ing, or more pressing, than 12 the over-fatigue of the young child months ago. I am basing my remarks who also knows only too well its on my own observations in many di- future doom, are serious factors verse countries of the world, and to be considered. my desire is to bring before this Assembly the urgent peril in which The Section of Traffic in Women the mass of normal children through- and Children has its contribution out the world stand at this present to prepare herein the relation be- juncture. These millions, the real tween the traffic and unemployment asset of the world,are scarcely in in the present economic situation. any way coming under the consider- ation of the League of Nations.This It has been evident too during body has given expert attention to recent years that in many countries various small outstanding groups, there has been a definite tendency such as the blind,the to reduce education grants.' pressed delinquents, etc. etc., while the this point last year--and we know needs of the mass of normal child- quite well that it is not primary ren have been left untouched.Icon- education on which retrenchments sider they constitute the urgent are first carried out, but on the problem of the moment, and it is secondary and early secondary or for this reason that I venture to post primary education. It may be bring this matter before the Assem- retrenchments are necessary, but bly for the purpose of asking for these, I verily believe, in many a constructive contribution and education_departments throughout close coordination of revelant the world could be effected, not League activities. by impairing the functions for which these departments exist, but by In many regions I seea quite de- the introduction of efficiency in finite tendency in modern industry administration and a careful dele- towards the exploitation of child tion of unnecessary expenditure. labor and especially girl labor. The Health Section Report points With the intense specialization, out the present dangers and gives based on small repetition processes, the definite examples of retrench- which is the key-note of efficiency ment which have taken place in re- in tinny modern industries,the most gard to dental services, medical useful and profitable source of la- services and school feeding, etc. borisrecognizedly the young girl. (See extract at end of article.) During the last few months, in great industrial areas,I have seen This contribution alone of the the utilization of these young Health Section should be enough to children on long hours of work in arouse and rivit our attention on engineering,textile,printing,etc., this matter. Then again, there 8 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN

arises the question of nutrition ministration, we have considerable which has been touched upon again investigation into the problem of in the Health Report. It is merely prison labor. Work is here acknow- a platitude for me to say that by ledged to be a means of treatment; neglect of this one factor alone, we are considering occupational we are endangering the future of therapyfor those guilty of offenses our people. On the health problem against society,on the other hand, aspect I need not enlarge. However we are calmly neglecting the im- I am particularly anxious to direct portance of occupation for the attention to the large sum contri- normal development of this child buted from a private source for group in order to prevent them from this great humanitarian purpose swelling the ranks of criminals of under the League: one category or another. We are neglecting this treatment, this League grant to "occupational therapy", for mil- Health Organization $1,178,463.69 lions of normal children. This Rockefeller position is surely a direct chal- Foundation 370.928.29 lenge to the Intellectual Coopera- tion Section. Every member of the Total . . . .$1,849,391.98 Assembly need only turn his or her thoughts for a moment to the con- To what end are all the health ditions existing in the region from and social efforts which have been which he or she comes,representing made and are being made now in the nearly the whole world, to acknow- realms "ante-natal", "post-natal", ledge with me that the situation in "infant welfare","pre-schoolchEd", regard to the child,the early adol- and the "early school child" lead- escent generally,is a challenge to ing? At the most critical period of the humanitarian work of the League. children's lives -- the transition period from Childhood to maturity, Re-organisation of the Child Wel- 7,ith its special health demands,its fare Committee of the League is psychological problems, the need shortly to be effected,and at pre- for most careful but unostentatious sent is before a sub-committee. guidance, with judicious choosing Further action is to be taken early of occupation, amusements, associ- next year.This is perhaps a matter ates and surroundings -- there is which might be taken back by Dele- suddenly to be this neglect of all gates to their countries so that the vital factors. For this is national opinions may be forwarded perhaps the most serious and unpre- to the Secretariat in this regard. cedented problem of all. What is I visualize, and wish to present to become of all these children as this to the Assembly, the idea of they, year after year; surge out a re-organized Child Welfare Sec- into the world to find a life work? tion, with a great purpose, re- Normally they are filled with am- vitalized immediately to tackle bition, anxiety to take theiract- this world problem. In such a ive part in life, and keen on the scheme I see the Child Welfare Com- struggle. We all know that at the mittee with a definite plan of ac- present time for a big proportion tion -- a campaign -- but coordin- of them there is nothing but en- ating and eager to receive the ex- forced soul-destroying idleness. pert help of other sections of the Not only amongst those who expect League's activity. It would be i n normally to swell the ranks of close collaboration with all inter- laborers, but in every grade of national and national organizations society there isno available occu- for the care and protection of pation for masses of young people. children. Wherever this question It has even been said that many is a matter of health, the expert young adults are seeking solace for activities of the Health Organiza- their lack of oc cupattan in drug tion are available.For educational addiction. There is no doubtwe matters,primary and secondary, for are up against one of the biggest the urgent problem of occupation psychological problems of the times. for leisure and amusements, the In an extremely interesting report Intellectual Co-operation Section which was placed before the Child would be called on.For every phase Welfare Section by the International of the industrial problem including Labor Office in regard to penal ad- the very vital one of industrial PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN 9

health, the expert services of the after the post-war and inflation International Labor Office would years until the autumn of 1931. be available. Since then there has been a rapid deterioration in all respects." Particularly at this session of the Assembly much time has been Page 43: "The recent memorandum of given to the Collaboration of 7o- the Prussian Minister of SocialWel- men and Nationality of Women and fare on the health condition of ele- one of the potent reasons laid be- mentary school children in Prussia fore us for consideration of this contains particulars which are the question has been the "protection more serious inasmuch as they do of the family". But what is to be- not cover the last few months. come of the family under the pres- Sixty-three school dentists have ent social chaos? Surely here in been dismissed; the school medical this question is a direct challenge service has been suspended in 33 to those who have been leading the Kreise and reduced in 54 others; forefront of the struggle on these 6 school dental clinics have been closed and the 19 dentists attached two questions of nationality of the women and collaboration of women. thereto have been dismissed; We have had here discussed elabor- school dental service has been sus- ately, plans which should be taken pended in 25 Kreise and reduced in in order to teach children to be 19 others; 2 hospitals and 39 con- interested in, and to support, the valescent homes for children have League of Nations. Surely it is been closed;the despatch of child- time the League of Nations directed ren to the country or the seaside its attention in a coordinated man- by the welfare service has been suspended in 3 Kreise and reduced ner towards the normal children of the School baths the world, whose need is great. in 25 others; have been closed in 27 Kreise and, My one motive is to stress the in 36 others, the number of days need for immediate co-ordinated on which these establishments are international effort, so that a open has been reduced; the school- mass attack should be made on this kitchen services have been suspended world-wide problem which may be as in 8 Kreise and restricted in 3 fundamental as that of disarmament. others. Such a picture of the re- strictions introduced into the med- ical assistance services in Prussia at the beginning of the year. Pro- phylaxis, which had increased to a Extracts from Health Section Report, remarkable extent during the last "The Economic Depression and Public decades, has been considerably re- laxed, which involves consequences Health": that are the more serious inasmuch Page 37: "In a large part of the as the requisite standard had by country, the general state of the no means been reached everywhere. school children has grown worse. Whileit would appear that measures The aggravation of the economic sit- of social hygiene have been reduced uation is bearing hardly on our school to a level beyond which it would be youth.Those who suffer particularly difficult to go, the same does not are the children of the unemployed apply to hospital establishments. and the destitute, small farmers, The number of beds occupied is dim- inishing in proportion as the sick- subordinate officials, employees with only small earnings, persons ness insurance funds investigate in receipt of social insurance more strictly the necessity for benefit and small rentiers. . .The hospital treatment and its length, often meagre income naturally serves as cases grow rarer in which the in the first place to buy food,and December Decree still permits them there is generally nothing left to subsidize the hospital treat- over for clothes and personal hy- ment of members of the families of giene. . . The state of health and insured persons, and as the com- nutrition of our school children, munes display greater parsimony in which is closely bound up with the granting authorizations for hospi- economic situation,slowly improved tal treatment." 10 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN

SIR JOSEPH H. CARRUTHERS, K. C. M. G. The passing of Sir Joseph H.Car- ruthers, K.C.M.G. tinguished one and included notable is a distinct service a s premier of New Sout h loss to the Pan-Pacific Union. Wales. He held numerous other pub- Since his first visit to Hawaii in lic offices in Australia; he wrote 1924, as a delegate to the First ably on many subjects and was act- Pan-Pacific Food Conservation Con- ive in international organizations ference representing the Australian for the promotion of better rela- Commonwealth and the Government of tions between nations,particularly New South Wales, he has been a regular visitor each summer. the Pan-Pacific Union. He will be He sadly missed in the entire Pacific was a member of the Legislative area. (Honolulu Advertiser, Dec.3, Council of New South Wales, and a 1932.) former premier of that state. Honolulu papers published the fol- lowing editorials: Sir Joseph Carruthers, whose death in Australia was reported here last week, was a man of "Pac- News of the passing of Sir Joseph ific mind". in Australia recently will be re= He traveled a good ceived with sincere regret by many deal, with Hawaii as a frequent persons here. He was a good friend visiting place. He loved his home- to Hawaii and an enthusiastic ad- land,but did not hesitate to crit- mirer of her scenic and other icize its shortcomings. His public charms. He came here frequently in career and his private life were later years, sometimes on official largely devoted to getting Austral- missions and sometimesin a private asia better known to the world;and capacity, but he was always a wel- the rest of the world better known come visitor. by his countrymen. Hawaii has real occasion to regret his passing,and to honor his memory.(Honolulu Star Sir Jose p h r s career was a dis- Bulletin, Jan. 2, 1933.)

JTAWAII IS TRULY AMERICA By Philip Kinsley (Mr. Kinsley, veteran member of the editorial staff of The Chicago Tribune, returned December 8, 1932,after visiting the Antipodes and the Orient. He wrote a number of special articles for the Honolulu Star-Bulletin) In returning to Honolulu after an eight month tour of the coun- emphasize the odd, the new, the tries bordering the Pacific and ad- unique in landscape,trees,flowers, jacent oceans, my chief impression people. The Waikiki legend colors is that this island is truly Amer- all his thought and things are ican,a part of the national atmos- forced into a sort of preconceived pattern,which at timesis difficult phere,and not an isolated and for- to maintain. eign place that flies the American flag. This persists more or less until One does not feel at home in the a new background drives it out. Philippines,even when the constab- ulary lower the colors at sunset A perspective of the South Seas, with all ceremony. The American Australasia, the Dutch Indies, the Club there is an oasis in a desert Malay countries, and the Asian of oriental thought. ports,topped off with Japan, bring a new consciousness about this is- land. In arriving here from the main- land for the first time the visitor from the states is inclined to over- Now it appears as essentially an American civilization, with some PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN 11

features which are bizarre but with past some of the highest peaks of some others that are distinctly an human thought, but the truths they improvement over anything that the have conceived as to the nature of mainland offers. man and the universe have remained on the mountain tops of life. The key to Honolulu is not surf- board riders and gay beach house The West has put such things aside parties, but the home on the hill- as unprofitable speculation and has side, the old fashioned American concentrated on things as they seem, home, amid new beauty. The old forcing nature to Rive them comfort southern homes, the English caintry and ease beyond the control of an- houses,some sections of California, cient kings. may equal this in spacious culture and charm for the few,but Honolulu Honolulu is a meeting place for offers it to the many. these two systems of thought, the one called spiritual and the other Honolulu is unique in the Pacific called material. because it is the only place where an American may feel at home. Its destiny, I believe, is bound up in Here, if anywhere, with the pos- some way that we cannot now see, sible exception of Japan, is the with the blending of the cultures soil for the production of a new of the East and the West. flower of civilization,the spirit- ual brought to earth, the material The Orient has produced in ages lifted to new horizons.

PACIFIC ARENA NEEDS WORLD AMITY By Harry W. Frantz, (United Press Staff Correspondent) Long heralded predictions. that United States,either in the Pacif- the Far East would become the cen- ic or across the Atlantic, was ter of gravity in world politics brought home to the American public were abundantly confirmed in 1932 during the year, when responsible when the attention of all chancel- government officials based their lories turned to the events and reaction to the Sino-Japanese Cri- implications of the Manchurian sis upon fulfillment of the multi- crisis. lateral Kellogg-Briand Pact, and the Nine Power Treaty while colla- Developments of the year seemed borating politically with the League to prove that the ultimate best in- of Nations in the.mast definite terest of all countries bordering and effective manner since that the Pacific lies in peace and con- organization was established. fidence, and that resort to vio- lence by any country inevitably Official statements issued at gives rise t o a chain of unpre- Washington during the year with dictable and disadvantageous con- respect to the Manchurian situation sequences. brought out three salient points: As a painful year in the Pacific (1)That the United States main- came to an end, all countries in tains itstrraditional policy towards this area were struggling with China of insistence of the "open trade depression or fiscal problems door" of equal commercial oppor- which in varying degrees might be tunity to all attempts at dismem- traced to the international tensbon berment of China; that developed as an aftermath of political and diplomatic strife. (2)That the United States in fulfillment of its Oriental policy The impossibility of an "isola- relies upon the instrumentalities tion policy" on the part of the of peace and is not dis posed to 12 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN

coerce any country even by the non- us of the Philippines, a problem bellicose method unofficial econo- complicated by the fact that the mic boycott; economic interests of the Islands would be injured by a too-rapid curtailment of trade ties. At. Man- (3) That the United States will ila,the administration of Governor not recognize the legality of de General Theodore Roosevelt, Jr. facto situations or treaties ar- coped vigorously and in a coopera- rived at in impairment of United tive spirit with Filipino leaders, States treaty rights. in solution of budgetary and other problems consequent upon the depres- American public opinion during sion. the year supported these purposes, and there was no reason to anti- Much publicised criminal cases cipate any fundamental change in in Hawaii during the year caused policy or attitude of the United political scrutiny of the organic States government after the inaug- laws and administration of those uration of the Democratic adminis- islands during 1932 for almost the tration selected at the November first time since their annexation elections. to the United States. Although any major alteration of the territorial With regard to the Philipp ine status was not expected, the merit Islands, chief events of the year of the "melting-pot" method of were Congressional effort to arrive handling race problems was examined at some determination of the per- more realistically by all concerned manent political and economic stat- with the territorial welfare.

WOMAN SUFFRAGE IN THE PACIFIC

Vast changes in the lives of the We learn that there ar e in Japan women in Japan have taken place in "even a few women's orchestras the last fifty years, according to playing American jazz music on Oc- Diane O'Connel whose article, "The cidental instruments." New Woman in Japan",appears in the December number of"Current History". "These women workers," Mis s Miss O'Connel points out that the O'Connel continues, "live in a transition from the age of chivalry dual civilization which does not to the age of machinery which has strike them as incongruous, so ac- taken placein the island empire in customed are they to bizarre and the last half-century has been a exotic contrasts of East and West. great factor in liberalizing the 4 girl bus conductor or a clerk in Japanese attitude toward women. one of Tokyo's newest skyscrapers of steel and concrete will board While most Westerners visualize street car,bus or subway at night, the Japanese woman, silken-kimono bound for her home in a frail lit- clad, as the embodiment of lady- tle native wooden house, the arch- like daintiness and prettiness, itecture of which has not changed this portrait of a highly decorative in centuries." but also exceedingly backward mem- ber of society is undergoing a fade- out in favor of an efficient person It is related of Susan B. Antho- with a mind, hand and will of her ny that she once told her friend, own -- a composite of girl office Annie Besant,the Theosophist lead- worker, saleswoman,telephone oper- er, that, if she (Miss Anthony) ator,teacher, nurse, factory work- should die before women were en- er and messenger girl. franchised, nothing in the glories of heaven would interest her so much as the work for women's free- The effect of this new civiliza- dom on earth. tion impinging upon and threatening If that aspiration to overthrow the old has its thrill- of the great woman leader was real- ing and picturesque aspects in ad- ized, Miss OConnel's article leads dition to its deeper implications. us to believe that the spirit of Susan B. Anthony would find the PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN 13

Japan of today a most congenial females. The number of the voters place to abide in, for Japan at' of both sexes are very close and the present time has no less than fears have been expressed that the women might outvote the men, as five woman suffrage parties. Japanese women are very much in , ab out "Women," Miss O'Connel explains, earnest and serious-minded "have not yet been granted full political affairs." political suffrage by the Japanese Diet, although they take a keen Harems are no longer legal in interest in politics and indirectly China and second, thire or other exert great influence. The Imper- ial Diet in 1920-21 repealed the "wives" cannot be recognized, ac- cording to the Shanghai corres- clause in Article V of the public pondent of the "London Daily Her- peace and order police regulations, which prohibited women from attend- ald". ing or holding political meetings. Under the new Chinese Civil Code, There are now numerous women writers and lecturers on social and politi- it is announced, monogamy is the cal problems, and in recent elec- only legal form of marriage. tions women speakers have been in Wives whose husbands now take great demand. Japan has five woman can bring actions suffrage parties, two quite large; secondary wives one of the most influential is the for divorce. Fusen-Renmei, a conservative asso- ciation without the radical tenden- It is estimated that about four cies of some of the others, such million women are affected by this as the Zenkoku Taishyuto, the pro- decree. letarian party. Miss Fusaye Ichi- It is a triumph for modern Chi- kawa and Baroness Shizuye Ishimoto are among the most prominent woman nese women, who have been agitat- suffrage leaders.Baroness Ishimoto ing for ten years to secure aboli- is also a leading advocate of birth tion of the "harem" system. control. With equal rights of inheritance "A bill for women's citizen rights and "equality of citizenship" also introduced in the House of Repre- granted to women, the feminist sentatives by Premier Hamaguchi's movement in China has now made Government Party on February 5, great progress. 1931,and passed the lower house on February 27. A part of the govern- Equality for women means the dis- ment's program of general revision appearance of the rigidly observed of the election laws,the bill pro- patriarchal family system and the posed giving feminine Japan the decay of Confucian ideals which right to vote for and to hold of- glorified the male. fice in village, town and city as- Many government officials and semblies. Definite promises were made that,if this step proved suc- members of the Kuomintan6the rul- cessful, women would eventually ing political party of the govern- ment, are likely to be involved in receive the right to vote for the divorce suits if wives take the forty-six prefectural assemblies and the House of Representatives new law seriously. and to hold office in those bodies on the same terms as men. Although An executive order insur i-n g e- the Minseito party succeeded in quality for women in t h e Fede ra 1 passing the measure through the service was made public December lower house by a large majority, the bill was defeated in the House 24, 1932. Under the new order, the Government department will still of Peers. have the right of selection, but they must give the commission an "The census of October, 1 930, important reason fo r the choosing showed that there are 13,563,813 wo- women and 13,730,000 men of voting of a man over a woman when the stands higher than the man on age in Japan.The total population man the eligibility list. of Japan proper is 64,450,005 -- (From "Equal Rights; Jan.7, 1933.) 32,390,1.55 males. and 32,059,850 14 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN

The late George Norton Wilcox, progressive sugar planter, industrial builder, and philanthropist of Hawaii, for many years a good friend and supporter of the Pan-Pacific Union. PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN 15

GEORGE NORTON WILCOX The death of George N. Wilcox ure,and moved to Honolulu, leasing Friday night brought the loss of Grove Farm to Mr. Wilcox. one of the best loved residents of Kauai, where he lived continuously At that time Grove Farm comprised for the last 70 years. between 700 and 800 acres.Mr. Wil- cox persisted,developed more water As a progressive sugar planter, and eventually became sole owner industrial builder and philanthro- of the estate, which now includes, pist,George Norton Wilcox, who was with pasturage and watershed, as one of the best known and oldest well as cane lands, about 12,000 living native sons of Hawaii,exer- acres. cised a deep influence on the devel- opment of these islands. Besides his ownership of Grove Farm plantation, Mr. Wilcox had Born on August 15, 1839,at Hilo, other extensive interests Hawaii. Mr. Wilcox was the son of Abner and He was president of the Kekaha Su- Lucy E. (Hart) Wilcox, and was a gar Co. and the Inter-Island Steam little more than 93 years old. Navigation Co. and retired recent- ly of president of the Pacific Educated at Punahou Schoolin Ho- Guano & Fertilizer Co. He was also nolulu,and the Sheffield Scientific a director of several other import- School, Yale, 1861 and 1862, Mr. ant corporations. Wilcox began his career in 1859 by spending several months on Jarvis Despite his many business respon Island as assistant manager of the sibilities, Mr. Wilcox had a dis- American Guano Co., of which the tinguished career in public service. late S. G. Wilder was manager and He was a representative from Kauai the late G. P. Judd was company in the legislature of 1880 and from agent in Honolulu. 1887, when King Kalakaua was re- quiredto grant a new constitution, This was a pioneer attempt to until annexation of the islands by work guano deposits,the fertilizer the United States in 1898, he was sunnlying return cargoes for clipper a member of every legislature, as ships which brought freight out to a noble under the monarchy and as California from the AtlanticCbast. a senator under the Republic of Hawaii. His experience on Jarvis Island proved of value to Mr. Wilcox in He was prime minister of the cab- later life when he became a pioneer inet in 1892 in association with in the guano business on Laysan Is- P. C. Jones, Cecil Brown and Mark land. He made several trips there Robinson. and developed the business which later merged into the Pacific Gua- His scientific training made him no & Fertilizer Co.,which now pro- always a leader in any project for vides the Hawaiian plantations with better living conditions and the most of their fertilizers. development of natural resources, including water systems for both Returning to Hawaii following his irrigation and domestic purposes, attendance at Yale, Mr. Wilcox be- electricity, model camps on Grove came a pioneer in sugar cane plant- Farm and the promotion of telephone ing at Hanalei, Kauai,, where his and ice services for Kauai. parents had long been stationed as missionaries, his brother, Albert His philanthropies were many,his S. Wilcox, being associated with interest centering largelyin reli- him. gious and educational work, such as the Salvation Army Girls? and Early in 1864 he undertook the Boys? homes in Honolulu, Punahou construction work on a ditch which School, Mid-Pacific Institute, Ha- H.A.Widemann of Grove Farm, Lihue, waiian Board of Missions, the Y.M. was digging to enable him to irri- C.A. and Y.W.C.A., and the Pan- gate his cane lands. In November Pacific Union. of that year Mr. Widemann decided that the ditch project was a fail- Mr. Wilcox was keenly interested in Aviation, and following the 16 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN

establishment of the Inter-Island It is said that his niece, Elsie Airways he made a number of flights Wilcox, decided to seek office as between the Garden Island and Ho- a senator from Kauai only after re- nolulu, marvelling at the speed of ceiving his encouragement. The the planes compared with the slow election selected her by an over- and tedious journeys which he made whelming vote to become the first aboard sailing ships lathe earlier woman to serve in the upper cham- years of his life. berof the territorial legislature. He was a man of great wealth,one Among the surviving nieces and of the richest in Hawaii, but a nephews of Mr. Wilcox are Gaylord citizen of simple habits. He lived P. Wilcox, vice president of Amer- quietly at his home at Lihue,"mind- ican Factors; and Mrs. H. D. Slog- ing his own business" in the lan- gett, Miss Elsie Wilcox and Miss guage of the masses. Mabel Wilcox, all of Kauai. (Hono- lulu Star-Bulletin,Jan. 21, 1933.) Although one of the outstanding philanthropists in Hawaii, he de- A mighty tree has fallen in the sired no publicity in connection forest at the end of long years of with his efforts to bring about well-rounded living -- George N. better living conditions. Wilcox, a son of Hawaii, whose life-span extended into the tenth These are some of the reasons why decade, far beyond the goal of he was held in such high esteem by ripened maturity hoped for by his Garden Island residents. fellows.

A glimpse of his modesty can be There are few who have spent so seen from his habit of taking an much of themselves to such good ocean trip just about the time his purpose, for so long, throughout birthdays fell due. more than seventy years of an act- ive working period. To the very Often he was on a Matson liner end he retained the clarity of either en route or homeward bound Chrittian faith and spiritual vi- from San Francisco when August 15 sion which were the fundamentals rolled by. of his character.

Perhaps the trips were motivated .He was a simple, unostentatious by his fondness of the sea but they and sincere doer and giver. It is may have been to preclude celebra- for these attributes that those tions in his honor by relatives and who enjoyed his personal friendship his host of friends. appreciated the man, himself, rather than for the great wealth On all of these trips, he was ac- which after the fruition from pov- companied by his private secretary, E. S. Swan. erty, hard work and careful living brought to his later years. Mr. Wilcox was an early riser. By repute, George N. Wilcox had Each morning found him up at about become Hawaii's wealthiest son. 5:30 o'clock for a drive through He was also the most philanthropic, the Grove F arm plantation fields at Lihue. giving wisely and generously to the support of the constructive social charities. He rarely missed greeting the arrivals of inter-island steamers as early as 5:30 and 6 a.m. at the This is hi s monument, the good khukini and Nawiliwili landings. which he has done. By this will he be remembered.. Few men who have lived in these Islands have spent Mr. Wilcox stood quietly at a distance, observing the steamer their working years in such earnest endeavor fo r the common welfare. berthed and remaining often until (Honolulu Advertiser, Jan. 2 2, the last passenger had disembarked. 1933.) ADVERTISING SECTION 1

THE MID-PACIFIC

The Royal Hawaiian and the Moana-Seaside Hotels at Waikiki

The Territorial Hotel Company, Ltd., The Matson-Lassco Steamship Com- own and operate the Royal Hawaiian pany maintains a regular, fast, reliable Hotel, Moana-Seaside Hotel and Bunga- passenger and freight service between lows, and the Waialae Golf Club. The Honolulu and San Francisco, Los Royal Hawaiian has been voted the Angeles, South Seas, Australia and Hilo. world's finest hotel by sixteen World Castle & Cooke, Ltd. are local agents for the line, whose comfort, service and Cruise Steamers. Rates upon applica- cuisine are noted among world travelers. tion. Cable address Royalhotel.

Famous Hau Tree Lanai The von Hamm-Young Co., Ltd., Im- porters, Machinery Merchants, and lead- The Halekulani Hotel and Bunga- ing automobile dealers, have their offices lows, 2199 Kalia Road, "on the Beach at and store in the Alexander Young Waikiki." Includes Jack London's Lanai Building, at the corner of King and and House Without a Key. Rates from Bishop streets, and their magnificent automobile salesroom and garage just $5.00 per day to $140.00 per month and in the rear, facing on Alakea Street. up. American plan. Clifford Kimball, Here one may find almost anything. owner and manager. Phone No. 6141.

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One of the Lewers a? Cooke, Ltd., Lumber Yards

Lewers & Cooke, Ltd., have, since They are also agents for Celotex cane- 1852, been headquarters for all varieties fibre products, Blue Diamond Stucco, of building material, lumber, hollow tile, cement colors, corrugated steel sheets, cement, brick, glass, hardwoods and oak Lupton's metal windows, Gladding Mc- flooring; as well as tools of the leading Bean's brick, roof and floor tile, and manufacturers, wall papers, Armstrong Pabco prepared roofings. A Home Build- linoleums, domestic and oriental rugs, ing Department is maintained to help small home builders, and a Home Service W. P. Fuller & Company's superior Department to assist home owners in re- paints and Sargent Hardware. decorating and modernizing.

[OAHU RAILWAY AND LAND COMPANY

Leaving Honolulu daily at 9 :15 A. M. given you three hours for luncheon and our modern gasoline motor cars take sightseeing at this most beautiful spot. you on a beautiful trip around the lee- ward side of Oahu to Haleiwa. You arrive at Honolulu at 5:27 P. M. The train leaves Haleiwa, returning to No single trip could offer more, and Honolulu at 2:52 P. M., after having the round trip fare is only $2.45. SEE OAHU BY RAIL ADVT. THE MID-PACIFIC 3

The Home Building in Honolulu of the American Factors, Ltd., Plantation Agents and Wholesale Merchants

Tasseled sugar cane almost ready for the cutting and crushing at the mills. ADVT. 4 THE MID-PACIFIC

Home of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd. Anyone who has ever visited the Ha- Ltd. ; Baldwin Packers, Ltd.; The Mat- waiian Islands can testify to the useful- son Navigation Co. at Port Allen, Ka- ness of the "A & B Steamer Calendars" hului, Seattle and Portland ; and the fol- which are to be seen on the walls of prac- lowing-named and well-known insurance tically every office and home in Hawaii. companies : Union Insurance Society of The issuing of and the free distribution Canton, Ltd.; The Home Insurance of these calendars is a distinct public Company, New York ; Springfield Fire service rendered for some 3o years by & Marine Insurance Co. ; New Zealand Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., who are Insurance Company, Limited ; The Com- staunch supporters of all movements monwealth Insurance Company; Newark that work for the good of Hawaii. Fire Insurance Company; American Al- The beautiful new office building pic- liance Insurance Association ; Queensland tured above was erected recently as a Insurance Co., Ltd. ; Globe Indemnity monument to the memory of H. P. Bald- Company of New York; Switzerland win and S. Alexander, the founders of the General Insurance Co., Ltd.; St. Paul firm and pioneers in the sugar business. Fire and Marine Ins. Co. Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., are agents The officers of Alexander & Baldwin, for some of the largest sugar plantations Ltd., are: W. M. Alexander, Chairman on the Islands ; namely, Hawaiian Com- Board of Directors ; J. Waterhouse, mercial & Sugar Co., Ltd. ; Hawaiian President ; H. A. Baldwin, Vice-Presi- Sugar Co. ; Kahuku Plantation Company ; dent ; C. R. Hemenway, Vice-President ; Maui Agricultural Company, Ltd.; Mc- J. P. Cooke, Treasurer; D. L. Oleson, Bryde Sugar Company, Ltd.; Laie Plan- Secretary ; J. F. Morgan, Asst. Treas- tation ; and also Kauai Pineapple Co., urer ; J. W. Speyer, Asst. Treasurer. ADVT. THE MID-PACIFIC 5 CASTLE & COOKE BREMEN., MALOLO BERLIN °K MANHATTAN Wherever you travel . . . whichever route you prefer . . . Castle & Cooke's Travel Bureau will arrange your reserva- tions or accommodations and relieve you of all annoying detail. Information, rates, or suggestions are offered with- out obligation and you are invited to use the travel files and service of the bureau. Castle & Cooke Travel Bureau, Merchant St., at Bishop. Branches in Royal Hawaiian and Moana Hotels.

C. BREWER AND COMPANY, LIMITED

C. Brewer and Company, Limited, Honolulu, with a capital stock of $8,000,000, was established in 1826. It represents the following Sugar Plantations: Hilo Sugar Company, Onomea Sugar Company, Honomu Sugar Company, Wailuku Sugar Company, Pepeekeo Sugar Company, Waimanalo Sugar Company, Hakalau Plantation Company, Honolulu Plantation Company, Hawaiian Agricultural Company, Kilauea Sugar Plantation Company, Paauhau Sugar Planta- tion Company, Hutchinson Sugar Plantation Company, as well as the Baldwin Locomotive Works, Kapapala Ranch, and all kinds of insurance.

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The Honolulu Construction & Draying Co., Ltd., Bishop and Halekauwila Sts., Phone 4981, dealers in crushed stone, cement, cement pipe, brick, stone tile, and explosives, have the largest and best equipped draying and storage company in the Islands, and are prepared to handle anything from the smallest package to pieces weighing up to forty tons.

The Hawaiian Electric Co., Ltd., with The Pacific Engineering Company, a power station generating capacity of Ltd., construction engineers and general 32,000 K.W., furnishes lighting and contractors, is splendidly equipped to power service to Honolulu and to the handle all types of building construc- entire island of Oahu. It also maintains tion, and execute building projects in its cold storage and ice-making plant, minimum time and to the utmost satis- supplying the city with ice for home faction of the owner. The main offices consumption. The firm acts as electrical are in the Yokohama Specie Bank contractors, cold storage, warehousemen Building, with its mill and factory at and deals in all kinds of electrical sup- South Street. Many of the leading busi- plies, completely wiring and equipping ness buildings in Honolulu have been buildings and private residences. Its constructed under the direction of the splendid new offices facing the civic Pacific Engineering Company. center are now completed and form one of the architectural ornaments to the city. The Universal Motor Co., Ltd., with spacious new buildings at 444 S. Bere- The City Transfer Company, at Pier 11, tania street, Phone 2397, is agent for has its motor trucks meet all incoming the Ford car. All spare parts are kept steamers and it gathers baggage from in stock and statements of cost of re- every part of the city for delivery to pairs and replacements are given in ad- the outgoing steamers. This company vance so that you know just what the receives, and puts in storage until needed, amount will be. The Ford is in a class excess baggage of visitors to Honolulu by itself. The most economical and and finds many ways to serve its patrons. least expensive motor car in the world. ADVT. THE MID-PACIFIC 7 Honolulu as Advertised

The Liberty House, Hawaii's pioneer dry goods store, established in 185o; it has grown apace with the times until today it is an institution of service rivaling the most progressive mainland establishments in the matter of its merchandising policies and business efficiency.

The Waterhouse Co., Ltd., in the The Honolulu Dairymen's Associa- Alexander Young Building, on Bishop tion supplies the pure milk used for street, make office equipment their spe- children and adults in Honolulu. It cialty, being the sole distributor for the also supplies the city with ice cream National Cash Register Co., the Bur- for desserts. Its main office is in the roughs Adding Machine, the Art Metal Purity Inn at Beretania and Keeaumoku Construction Co., the York Safe and streets. The milk of the Honolulu Lock Company and the Underwood Dairymen's Association is pure, it is Typewriter Co. They carry in stock rich, and it is pasteurized. The Asso- all kinds of steel desks and other equip- ciation has had the experience of more ment for the office, so that one might than a generation, and it has called at a day's notice furnish his office, safe upon science in perfecting its plant and against fire and all kinds of insects. its methods of handling milk and de- livering it in sealed bottles to its cus- The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 125 tomers. Merchant Street, prints in its job depart- Stevedoring in Honolulu is attended ment the Mid-Pacific Magazine, and that to by the firm of McCabe, Hamilton and speaks for itself. The Honolulu Star- Renny Co., Ltd., 20 South Queen Street. Bulletin, Ltd., conducts a complete com- Men of almost every Pacific race are mercial printing plant, where all the de- employed by this firm, and the men of tails of printing manufacture are per- each race seem fitted for some particular formed. It issues Hawaii's leading even- part of the work, so that quick and effi- ing newspaper and publishes many elab- cient is the loading and unloading of orate editions of books. vessels in Honolulu. ADVT. 8 THE MID-PAC IFIC

Twice a week the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company dispatches its pala- tial steamers, "Waialeale" and "Hualalai," to Hilo, leaving Honolulu at 4 P.M. on Tuesdays and Fridays, arriving at Hilo at 8 A.M. the next morning. From Hono- lulu, the Inter-Island Company dispatches almost daily excellent passenger vessels to the island of Maui and twice a week to the island of Kauai. There is no finer cruise in all the world than a visit to all of the Hawaiian Islands on the steamers of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Interior View of Bishop Trust Co. Company. The head offices in Honolulu are on Fort at Merchant Street, where The Bishop Trust Co., Limited, larg- est Trust Company in Hawaii, is located every information is available, or books at the corner of Bishop and King Streets. on the different islands are sent on re- It offers Honolulu residents as well as quest. Tours of all the islands are ar- mainland visitors the most complete ranged. trust service obtainable in the islands Connected with the Inter-Island Steam today. The Company owns the Guardian Navigation Company is the world-famous Trust Co., Pacific Trust, Waterhouse Volcano House overlooking the everlast- Trust, and the Bishop Insurance Agency, ing house of fire, as the crater of Hale- and is thus able to offer an all-inclusive service embracing the following : Trusts, maumau is justly named. A night's ride Wills, Real Estate, Property Manage- from Honolulu and an hour by auto- ment, Home Rental Service, Stocks and mobile, and you are at the Volcano Bonds and the Largest Safe Deposit House in the Hawaii National Park on Vaults in Hawaii. the Island of Hawaii, the only truly his- toric caravansary of the Hawaiian Islands. Honolulu Paper Company, Honolulu's There are other excellent hotels on the leading book and stationery store, is lo- Island of Hawaii, the largest of the cated on the ground floor of the Young group, including the recently constructed Hotel Building in the heart of Hono- Kona Inn, located at Kailua on the Kona lulu's business district. The company Coast—the most primitive and historic district in Hawaii. has a complete stock of all the latest fiction, travel, biography and books re- lating to Hawaii. It is also distributor The Bank of Hawaii, Limited, incor- for Royal Typewriters, Adding Ma- porated in 1897, has reflected the solid, chines, Calculators and steel office fur- substantial growth of the islands since niture. the period of annexation to the United States. Over this period its resources have grown to be the largest of any The Haleakala Ranch Company, with financial institution in the islands. In head offices at Makawao, on the Island 1899 a savings department was added of Maui, is as its name indicates, a to its other banking facilities. Its home cattle ranch on the slopes of the great business office is at the corner of Bishop mountain of Haleakala, rising 10,000 and King streets, and it maintains feet above the sea. This ranch breeds branches on the islands of Hawaii, pure Hereford cattle and is looking to Kauai, Maui, and Oahu, enabling it to a future when it will supply fine bred give to the public an extremely efficient cattle to the markets and breeders in Banking Service. Hawaii. ADVT. In Hawaii the chief points of the compass are "mauka," toward the mountains, and "makai," toward the sea.