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TWENTY YEARS in TEA, the Letters of Iris Macfarlane from Assam Tea Gardens, 1946-1965

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TWENTY YEARS in TEA, the Letters of Iris Macfarlane from Assam Tea Gardens, 1946-1965 TWENTY YEARS IN TEA The Letters of Iris Macfarlane from Assam Tea Gardens 1946-1965 Edited by Alan Macfarlane 1 Preface This book is a sequel to Alan Macfarlane, India: Beginnings and Endings (2019) which covers the years 1939-1945. That account is largely based on the diaries and letters of my mother, Iris Rhodes James when she returned to India, aged sixteen, in April 1939, through her marriage to Donald Macfarlane in March 1941, and to the end of the Second World War in 1945. The book describes their family backgrounds and their earlier links to India and Burma. Iris's family had been in India from the later eighteenth century, Donald's from the later nineteenth century. When my father joined the Assam Tea Company in 1936, he was late in the process of the development of tea growing in Assam. The earlier story of Assam tea is told in a book by Alan and Iris Macfarlane, Green Gold; The Empire of Tea (2003). Three chapters in that book, written by Iris, describe the first establishing of tea production in Assam from the 1830s, the growth of tea production from 1839-1880 and the later development of the tea industry from 1880-1939, with particular emphasis on the situation of tea labourers. This book, Twenty Years in Tea covers the years 1946 to 1965 on four tea gardens which Iris and Donald lived on. It is mainly based on the letters which Iris wrote to me in England, as well as a few entries in her notebooks. My life during these twenty years is described in a series of parallel publications. The period in the south of England from 1947-1954 is recounted in Dorset Days. My experience at a boarding preparatory school 1950-1955 is told in Becoming a Dragon. The family, including Iris's parents, moved to the north of England in late 1954 and the years in the Lake District until 1960 are described in Lakeland Life. My life at a boarding public school from 1955-1960 is analysed in Sedbergh Schooldays. I then went to Oxford University to study history and my first three years are in Oxford Undergraduate, 1960-3. I stayed on to do a doctoral degree, which is described in Oxford Postgraduate, 1963-1966. Iris and Donald retired from India in late 1965. They lived in the Lake District for three years and then moved to a croft on the island of North Uist, in the Outer Hebrides in Scotland. Iris' correspondence during this period with Alan is partly contained up to 1971 in Becoming an Anthropologist and her reflections on the move to the Hebrides in Iris Macfarlane, And We in Dreams. It can be seen that this volume is one piece of a much larger colonial jigsaw. It is centred on Iris and Donald, (or Mac, as he was often known). A very brief note on the main actors in this volume will help to place some of the family who appear in the narrative. Donald Macfarlane was born in El Paso, Texas, in 1916. After education in Scotland, he went to work as an engineer in the Assam Tea Company in late 1936. He helped raise the first and second battalions of the Assam Regiment in India during the Second World War and then returned to tea planting. Iris was born in Quetta, now Pakistan, in 1922 and went home to schools in England until she returned with her mother to India in 1939. She married Donald in 1941 and had three children in India, Alan at the end of 1941, Fiona in 1944 and Anne in 1946. The whole family returned for their first home leave together in April 1947. The children while in England and not away at school, lived with Iris's parents. Her mother, Violet, was born in Burma in 1896 and after some years of education in England, spent most of her life in India until she returned to England in January 1945. Iris's father, William, was born in India in 1886 and after education in England, spent most of his life as a military officer in the Indian Army in Burma and India, rising to the rank of Lt. Colonel. He retired to England in December1945. 2 Editorial notes In editing these letters, I have tried to avoid overlap between what is contained here and the other books in the series. I have also tried to maintain, as much as possible, the flavour of the letters by leaving spelling unchanged. Only a very few remarks and incidents, which could still be hurtful to living individuals or their families, have been omitted. The books mentioned in the preface are all available on Amazon or, in the case of the autobiographical volumes, can be freely downloaded from the University of Cambridge data store by going to my web-site, www.alanmacfarlane.com and looking under 'Life' and clicking on the title. The value of the Indian Rupee between 1927 and 1966 was 13.33 INR to £1. The seer was designed as being exactly equal to 1.25 kg (1.792 lb), however, there were many local variants of the seer. Alan Macfarlane, King's College, Cambridge CB2 1ST U.K. [email protected] 3 Returning to tea 1946-1947 The arrangements for my father's return to tea-planting are recorded in letters from the General Manager at Nazira, Assam, in the records of the Assam Tea Company for 1946. 30th April 1946 Mr. Macfarlane has also been released from the Army and arrived with Mr. Flux. I am placing him at Mackeypore (Hattiputi). 2nd July 1946 Mr Chapman turned up unexpectedly on demobilization yesterday and I am putting him at Mackeypore (Hattiputti) in place of Mr Macfarlane, whom I intend transferring to Mohokutie to take over from Mr Hill who, having been allotted passages, will be proceeding on leave within the next ten day. 9th July 1946 Mr Hill was due to leave Mohokutie this morning, after handing over charge to Mr Macfarlane. [A reference to summer floods...] 23th July 1946 … Mohokutie was completely cut off but I managed to get into the garden by wading. I found conditions quite fair, old Mohokutie and Sologuri suffering the most. Some of the leaf that had been plucked at Sologuri it was not possible to get to the factory and it had to be thrown away. Before I left I was quite satisfied that Mr Macfarlane had the situation well in hand. Iris left Shillong on July 26th 1946 to go to Mohokutie Tea Estate to join Donald. I was with her, aged 4½, so was my sister Fiona, aged 2, but also our baby sister, Anne, who had been born the previous month on 3rd June, and our Ayah1 The first letter is from Iris to her mother on 16th August 1946, from Mohokutie Tea Estate, India – to the Vicarage, Cumnor, Oxfordshire. Darling Mummy, I have two letters to thank you for, as you probably knew I couldn’t write myself due to the postal strike and have just got the mail which has accumulated for the last three weeks. As you see we are now safely on the tea garden after two false starts, the second one due to floods. I got Mac's wire putting me off just as we were starting off with our luggage – the whole district was under water, half our compound included. I eventually left on the 26th July and had a pretty grisly journey, though short. We had to leave Shillong at 4 a.m. to catch the Assam Mail and the only way we could make it was in a 15 cwt lorry – not the most comfortable way to do a 4 hour hill road, but the kids slept a bit of the way and were very good. We arrived at Padu [Pandu] just as the train was leaving and only had time to hurl ourselves and our 60 mds2 or so of luggage into a small coupe3 before it started. Of course we chose the one carriage without a fan so you can imagine what it was like with all the windows blocked by trunks, tricycles etc and five of us inside! Anne screamed without ceasing just to complete the general enjoyment. We arrived at 7.30 p.m. and had another 1 hour's lorry trip before we got here so were all pretty dead and Alan was sick on 4 arrival, excitement I think. Anne continued to scream till after midnight and we began to feel desperate but quietened her with a couple of bottles in rapid succession and she has hardly opened her mouth since. This is an incredible place, the size of a small hotel at least and every modern convenience. There are four suites with tiled bathrooms attached, two sitting rooms (one the size of a ballroom) dining room and a verandah all round that is the size of the bungalow again. Everything is clean and mosquito proofed, the cook-house is on the same scale as the bungalow and there's a lovely compound attached full of flowering shrubs and trees and a mass of incredible butterflies of every colour, some the size of small birds. I did not know people lived in such luxury any where nowadays, and apparently this is not an exception as far as bungalows go, but the rule. The heat is not nearly as bad as I expected, it doesn’t compare with the U.P. [United provinces] hot weather or even Quetta in my opinion.
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