ARTICLE

TEA DRINKING: ORIGIN, PERCEPTIONS, HABITS WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO , ITS TRIBES, AND ROLE OF TOCKLAI

PRADIP BARUAH*

ea is the most popular drink in the planet and it The first authentic reference to is found in an occupies that position only after water. Its first use ancient Chinese dictionary which was revised about the Tis believed to be about 5,000 years back and has year 350 A.D. by P’O, a Chinese scholar. Tea leaves were remained popular as the most pleasurable and efficacious boiled at that time to prepare a medicinal decoction. The beverage in the world. Tea drinking has rather been gaining first book exclusively on tea was published in 780 A.D. by further acceptance now due to its natural health benefiting Lu Yu (733-804), respected as the Sage of Tea. The book properties. The heritage drink has withstood the test of ‘Ch’a Ching’ or ‘The Classic of Tea’ in three volumes is time and it may well be the drink of the future. The journey divided into ten chapters, each describing various kinds of the beverage through the passage of time has been of tea, cultivation, manufacturing methods, etc. and gives glorious and fascinating. The origin of tea in , myths information on the tea growing districts of China. Use of associated with it, spread across the world, perceptions, tea as a beverage commenced towards the end of the sixth culture and habits, discovery in wild forests of Assam, century in China. Thereafter, tea grew in popularity and and tea drinking habit of the tribes of the state are all the Government levied a duty on tea in 783 A.D. Tea was amazing like the mystic brew itself. reported to be a common beverage of China in ninth century by an Arabian traveler who went there.1 Origin of Tea Drinking The Chinese were passionate about drinking tea and Tea drinking originated in China about 5,000 years many lyrical expressions are available.2 ago and was cultivated in South-East China at first. The The first cup moistens my lips and throats word ‘tea’ is derived from ‘t’e’ of the Chinese Fukian The second shatters my loneliness dialect. In Cantonese, tea is known as ‘Cha’. The origin of The third causes the wrongs of life tea is obscured by a maze of legends. One legend associates the origin of tea with Daruma who founded to fade gently from my recollection. Ch’an school of Buddhism in China. While meditating for The fourth purifies my soul years together, Daruma fell asleep. When he woke up, The fifth lifts me infuriated at his sleepiness, he cut off his offending eye to the realms of unwinking gods lids, threw them away and tea plants grew where they fell – Chinese mystic poet, T’ang dynasty on the earth. Thus, tea drives away sleepiness. Another legend associates tea with Shen Nung, a 2737 B.C. Chinese Even the great Chinese philosopher, Confucius (551- emperor. While on a hunting trip in wild forests, some tea 479 B.C.) described the fascinating properties of tea as: leaves carried by the wind fell into his boiling water pot, ‘Tea tempers the spirit and harmonizes the mind and he discovered the properties of the leaves on drinking dispels lassitude and relieves fatigue, unknowingly. awakens thought and prevents drowsiness, * Tocklai Experimental Station, – 785 008 Email: lightens up or refreshes the body, [email protected] and clears the perceptive faculties.’

VOL. 77, NOS. 9–10 365 The habit of tea drinking later spread to Japan in 593 Tea drinking had become a habit over the years and A.D. (approx.) where it became so popular as to become its popularity as a beverage spread across the world. an integral part of Japanese culture. It is believed that Tea People drink tea to relax, to drive away fatigue, to Ceremony started in Japan at the close of the Heinan revigourate themselves, knowingly or unknowingly period in about 1159 A.D., Japanese Chado or Sado (“way obtained medicinal benefits along with it. It forms a part of tea”) of Cha-no-yu (hot water tea) is a time honoured of healthy life style, social custom and often a habit. institution in Japan, rooted in the principle of Zen Samuel Johnson, the British poet and critic, famously Buddhism which is basically founded upon the adoration said himself to be, ‘a hardened and shameless tea-drinker, of beautiful in the daily routine of life. It is an aesthetic who has for twenty years diluted his meals with only the way of entertaining guests, where everything is done of this fascinating plant; whose kettle has scarcely according to an established order.3 time to cool; who with the tea amuses the evening, with tea solaces the mid night, and with tea welcomes the Spread of tea to Europe and the World, 7 Popularity and Perceptions morning.’ Scientific analysis explains that tea is drunk primarily The legendary Lu Yu believed that tea symbolized on account of stimulus given by . The British and the harmony and mysterious unity of the universe.4 Tea Australian tea drinkers acquired a taste for the tannin in drinking had been culturally linked to the Chinese people. and although fully appreciative of the stimulus Tea drinking spread to other parts of the world only in given by the beverage, judge a cup largely by the strength the middle of seventeenth century. In 1497, opening of a of the infusion.8 sea route to the East by the Portuguese facilitated large scale trading between Europe and the Orient. The Dutch However, tea drinking became an irresistible practice bought tea from Japan and the first consignment of tea in based on culture and values developed over the years. Europe was from the Island of Hirado in 1610 A.D. The The magical brew so much influenced the psyche of the Dutch dominated the tea trade in Europe for more than a drinkers that one such tea connoisseur exclaimed. century and then the British emerged as the largest trader. Thank God for tea! China continued to be the main supplier of tea to Europe What would the world do without tea? till the middle of the nineteenth century.5 How did it exist? Tea had been popular in the erstwhile Russia also I am glad, I was not born before tea. and they were aware of it way back in 1567. In 1735, the Empress of Russia inaugurated the overland tea trade from – Sydney Smith (1775-1834) China. Brick tea was a popular form in Russia in the early The primitive tribes of Assam where tea plant grew years, and it was mostly imported from China. However, wild in Upper Assam area were in the habit of drinking tea black and green took over later. The great Russian prepared in their own indigenous method since time writer Leo Tolstoy (1828-1910) said so about the beverage. immemorial. Tea became popular among the common people ‘Tea unleashes the potential which slumbers in of much later on the efforts of the British tea depth of my soul.’ companies; although the Singpho tribe of Assam was known to drink it beyond their memories could help. The The world, originally, knew tea made by the plant was discovered in Upper Assam in 1823, the in black, orthodox form in 1600 when it became popular in credit going to three persons – Robert Bruce, Beasa Gaum Europe. Tea became fashionable and popular as a beverage of Singpho tribe and , an Assamese in Holland and England in mid 1660s, and its popularity nobleman. kept on soaring in England thereafter. Originally, tea liquor was drunk, and the first record of use of milk in tea was The first tea company, Assam Company, for in 1655 at a banquet of Dutch Embassy in Canton. The commercial cultivation of tea in Assam was established in available records indicate that wife of a French poet 1839. Due to success of tea cultivation and production in introduced the custom of adding milk to tea, and tea Assam, a large number of tea companies were formed to drinkers of American colonies first took it added with milk exploit this fortune in Assam, and supply tea to the British or cream in 1700. was first used in England in people in England and engage in export business in Europe. 1715.6 However, the black orthodox type had been the These companies taught the Indian people the practice of popular one in Europe in those days. drinking tea and it did not take long to be popular with

366 SCIENCE AND CULTURE, SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER, 2011 the common mass. The magic brew caught the imagination ceased to be produced since 1976 (approx.). of the people of India to be established as the most The premium segment of tea drinkers in the world consumed beverage in course of time. There was no dearth still prefers the traditional orthodox type of tea, which of tea lovers among the countryman, and the renowned contains the original characteristics of distinct liquor and Noble laureate, Rabindranath Tagore, an avid tea drinker flavor. But the popularity of the CTC type had risen who also had family business interests in tea, wrote about manyfold over the years, mainly due to more cuppage the mystic brew as: obtained from it, mostly in the Indian sub-continent and Come, oh come, Yea tea-thirsty the neighbouring countries. The change in consumer restless ones; the kettle boils, preference resulted in shift of manufacturing process from bubbles, and sings, musically. orthodox to CTC type, which had impact on plucking standard and other field management practices as well. Types of Tea and Consumption Pattern, Trend Table 1 below depicts the various types of tea with Particular Reference to India manufactured in India at present (year : 2005, 2007). The great Chinese Sage of Tea, Lu Yu observed, The vast majority of tea manufactured in India “There are a thousand and ten thousand teas.”9 Basically consists of CTC type (90.01% in 2007). Out of the four types of tea are manufactured in the world, viz. black remaining approximate 10 per cent of orthodox, , green tea, tea and instant tea. Interestingly, and green tea, most of it is exported along with tea bags, the present popular form of tea in India and elsewhere – instant tea and value added forms. CTC (crush tear curl) was invented in Assam only in The changing consumption pattern of tea from 1930.10 Black tea is of three types – orthodox, CTC and traditional orthodox type to CTC resulted in change in legg-cut (obsolete now). Green tea is though mainly production form which is evident from the data presented orthodox type, CTC type is also available. In the popular in Table 2. form of black tea, one kg of orthodox tea normally gives 275 cups, whereas it yields TABLE 1. Types of tea manufactured in India (2005, 2007) 550 cups in case of CTC. In 1896, the first individual patent was issued (Quantity in million kg) to A.V. Smith of London. Year CTC Orthodox Darjeeling Green Total An interesting form is ‘leppet tea’, 2005 849.6 75.6 11.3 9.4 946.0 originally known to be prepared by the (89.81%) (7.99%) (1.19%) (0.99%) Shan tribes, who pickle the leaf. Scented 2007 887.9 78.6 10.0 9.9 986.4 (90.01%) (7.97%) (1.01%) (1.0%) teas using various full blown flowers had been a practice in China since long. Source : Tea Statistics, , 2004-05, 2010-11 However, manufacturing of another form of tea ‘brick tea’ was known to the Sung TABLE 2. Changing pattern of tea manufacture in India (1961-2005) dynasty (966-1276 A.D.). Brick tea began (Quantity in million kg) to appear in Siberia in the seventeenth Year CTC Orthodox Darjeeling Green Total century. Later, it was a practice to make brick tea (consisting of leaf, stalk, twigs, 1961 122.1 191.3 10.1 30.9 354.4 and dust siftings) in China for export to 1971 240.0 164.6 10.3 20.6 435.5 Mongolia, Tibet and Russia. Both black 1981 357.5 183.1 12.2 7.6 560.4 and green teas were compressed into 1991 603.6 136.9 13.9 9.8 754.2 bricks and tablets.11 Considerable 2000 760.4 71.0 9.3 6.2 846.9 quantity of brick tea was also produced 2001 759.4 79.2 9.8 5.4 853.9 in North-East India in 1950s and 1960s (1955: 1,76,892 kg, 1960 : 72,346 kg). 2005 849.4 75.9 11.3 9.4 946.0 Another form of tea, legg-cut (26.2 million 2006 893.4 66.3 10.9 11.2 981.8 kg i.e. 7.4 per cent of total production 2007 887.9 78.6 10.0 9.9 986.4 was produced in 1961 in India) had Source: Tea Statistics, Tea Board of India, 2004-05, 2010-11

VOL. 77, NOS. 9–10 367 It is clear that CTC tea production and consumption the United Kingdom is still one of the highest (Table 3). has overwhelmingly taken over from orthodox tea. It has The domestic market of India is huge and the total volume been a gradual but steep decline over the years depicting is the highest in the world surpassing even China, but the the changing consumer behavior. Production of orthodox per capita consumption comes down because of its large black tea was as high as 54 per cent of India’s production population. even in 1961, which had come down to mere 8-10 per cent The demand for tea is increasing both domestically in 2005-07. Moreover, this production of orthodox tea is and globally. Almost the entire produce of the country also mostly exported. was exported earlier in the beginning of the twentieth The love and passion for tea had never ceased with century. The growth of domestic consumption of tea the British since they developed liking for the drink way thereafter is astounding (Table 4). back in mid of 1600. They were the largest consumers of tea in the world after China, and consumption per head in TABLE 4 : Internal consumption of tea in India (estimated (1953-54, 2008) TABLE 3: Estimated tea consumption in some countries of the world (2003-05) (Figures in million kg)

Country Total consumption Consumption Year Internal consumption % total production (million kg) per head (kg) 1953-54 82.67 29.65 Europe 1960-61 124.50 38.62 United Kingdom 127.42 2.12 1971 221 50.75 France 13.70 0.23 1981 360 64.24 Germany 22.80 0.28 1991 511 67.75 Ireland 11.62 2.79 2000 653 77.10 Poland 31.32 0.82 2005 757 80.02 CIS/USSR 227.21 0.81 2007 786 79.68 America 2008 802 81.77 Canada 18.88 0.59 Source: Tea Statistics, Tea Board of India, 1960, 2004-05 USA 97.91 0.33 Producing countries The internal consumption of tea in India was less India 735.33 0.68 than 30 per cent of the total production of the country (import for domestic consumption is nominal) in 1953-54 Sri Lanka 26.99 1.40 which had risen to about 82 per cent in 2008. It signifies Kenya 13.43 0.40 ever increasing popularity of tea as a beverage among the China 573.26 0.44 Indian mass and also over dependence of the Indian tea Japan 146.23 1.15 industry on the domestic market due to decline in export 41.34 0.30 front. The domestic consumption in India was about 22 Afghanistan 41.00 1.75 per cent of the total tea production in the world (2005). Tea is truly the national drink of India. Iran 71.65 1.06 Iraq 48.27 2.03 The popularity and acceptance of tea as a beverage has received further momentum with scientific discovery Pakistan 125.86 0.84 of various important health benefiting properties, Turkey 150.29 2.11 particularly anti-carcinogenic and anti-oxidant, to name a Africa few. It is perceived as a health drink too to the present Egypt 65.05 0.94 health conscious generation. Libya 14.47 2.54 Tea now has to be not only pleasurable and appealing Morocco 46.63 1.53 to the consumers due to its inherent characteristics, and Oceania medicinal properties, but should also be safe one from the Australia 13.64 0.68 point of view of consumers. It is particularly important because tea is largely being marketed and consumed on Source : Tea Statistics, Tea Board of India, 2004-05

368 SCIENCE AND CULTURE, SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER, 2011 the basis of its contributions to health. The presence of Coming out agro-chemical residues in the end product is a matter of Seen the factory of Sisimukh concern to consumers which has to conform to MRL The door had opened, (maximum residue limit) levels set by various tea consuming countries. Carefully managing the presence of agricultural The bitterness of teeta phool* chemicals used on tea growing, processing and storage of Roses of Jorhat tea, other consumer considerations like moisture level Letters of Chenimora (higher on leading to growth of harmful bacteria), presence Plucked the tea leaves, scattered them of extraneous materials like traces of insect fragments or Turned like tamarind leaves. other contaminants, all make up the concept of a safe tea to consumers.12 (*flower of commonly known plant, basak, Adhatoda bassica) Tea in Assam’s Culture and Heritage Working hard in tea garden, my sweet heart Tea is a way of life in Assam webbed into its culture Earning money for you, and tradition. Tea is a culture in Assam, steeped in history Can’t come home to meet you frequently of the state giving shape to what it is today. Its influence Don’t give your heart to someone else. on economic growth and social progress of the state is so immense, the distinct characteristics so unique, and The contribution of large number of tea garden popularity of Assam tea is such universal that the name labourers originally coming from various parts of India to Assam is synonymous to Assam tea to the outside world. the amalgamated is also significant. Out of the three cultivated races of tea, the large leaf Assam type (Camellia assamica (Masters)) is indigenous Tea Drinking Habits Amongst the Tribes of to the state of Assam which has distinct high quality Assam, Indigenous Preparation characteristics. The origin of tea is also in the South- East Tea is a popular drink amongst the various tribal Asia in the regions of South China and Assam. population of Assam. Although rice beer (known as ‘suze’, It is an age old custom of the to ‘jou’, ‘zou’, ‘apang’ etc.) has been the most popular drink offer tamul paan (pieces of nut and beetle leaf) and a cup since long, tea is also a beverage of daily use to them like of tea to any guest visiting the household. Offering of tea the rest of the population of the state. Not much is customary in any social or religious congregation. It is information is available on when and how the individual essential for entertaining a guest. Tea is a part of daily life tribes had started the tea drinking habit. It is probably since morning till evening in an Assamese family – drinking adapted from the rest of the population of the state, when endless cups of the beverage. It was traditionally drunk in tea drinking was promoted and made popular by the utensils made of brass, or even in cut bamboo pieces. Tea British tea companies among the local population except was served earlier and drunk as liquor without addition of for may be a few tribes like the Singpho and the Muttock. milk and with or without sweetener like gur (jaggery), but It is a common beverage of daily use at present among over the years tea with milk and sugar gained popularity. the various tribes of Assam, viz. Boro Kachari, Dimasa There is hardly any family in Assam who does not drink Kachari, Mesh, Khasi, Deori, Karbi, Lalung, etc. However, tea in morning or evening hours sitting together, though tea drinking is common in socio-religious festivals discussing various household matters. In any marriage or of various tribes of Assam, it does not form a part of religious ceremony continuous supply of tea to the performance of any ritual like offering to God or spirit by invitees is a must. Thus, its role in family and social the tribes of Assam. bonding is enormous. Tea lovers call it as the ‘state drink’ The role of Singpho tribe in discovery of tea in of Assam, and moves are underway to get official Assam and early development of tea industry in the state recognition on it and subsequently as the national drink. is most significant. The discovery of wild tea in Assam The influence of tea drinking and tea garden life has was because of the Singpho tribe, and there are records been so deep-rooted in the life and culture of the people of their tea drinking habit, knowledge of medicinal of Assam that numerous references are available in the properties and indigenous method of preparation. Singpho literature and in the folk songs of Assam, the popular chief, Beesa Gaum, first showed a wild growing tea plant songs.13 to Robert Bruce in 1823. Singpho is a tribe who lived

VOL. 77, NOS. 9–10 369 ‘intermixed with the Khamtis the country watered by the some other astringent ingredients, all boiled, beat up, and Burhi Dihing, the Noa Dihing and Tengpani, which formerly intimately blended together. belonged to the Ahoms.14 According to a description of From the well known fact of tea being the favourite John M’cosh on Indian tea (1837), ‘The tea tree, the drink of those tribes in whose vicinity it has been found, identical tea of China, grows as favourably upon the as well as from the immense quantity expanded in the mountains possessed by the dependent hill tribes the adjacent kingdom of , it would appear far from Khangtis, Singphos and Muttucks, as in the adjoining chimerical to anticipate a very successful result from the provinces of China itself, …… Tea is the favourite general culture of the plant in Assam, were it with a view beverage of these tribes and is constantly drunk by to rendering it a staple article of trade with the regions in them.’15 It may be mentioned that ‘fanap’ was the word which it is so extensively consumed, and where from the used for describing tea at that time of its discovery in peculiar mode of preparing it for use, less skill in its Assam. It is a Singpho word used to describe the then culture would be necessary, than in those varieties tea plant at the time of handing over the seeds to Robert intended for European market.’ Bruce by the Singpho chief.16 Sir Percival Griffiths in ‘The History of the Indian A detailed account of tea drinking and method of Tea Industry’ also recorded a communication worth preparation among the tribes of Assam in the early days quoting of Lieutenant Charlton to Captain Jenkins in 1834 is available in William Robinson’s ‘Descriptive Account of to a circular of Tea Committee calling for information on Assam’ (1841):17 tea (Jenkins in 1834 became agent to the Governor-General ‘Tea has hitherto been the favourite beverage of these for the North-East Frontier with head quarters at Jorhat hill tribes in whose vicinity the wild plant has been found. and was deputed to report on economic potentialities of The Singphos have long known and drunk the tea, but Assam).18 their mode of preparing is very different from that we have ‘I have little doubt but that found near Beesa is a already described. The young and tender leaves are first species of tea, and though it may be spurious or even a plucked and dried in the sun; by some they are exposed camellia, Dr. Wallich suggests, its growing there alternately to the night dews, and the heat of the sun for indigenous and in great abundance affords good grounds three successive days; whilst by others they are put into for supporting that introduction of the Chinese plants into flat hot fans and turned about till quite dry. This done the Upper Assam would be attended with success. I have not leaves are placed in the hollow of a bamboo and driven had an opportunity of making any experiments on the firmly down by means of a stick, the bamboo being at the leaves; they are devoid of smell in their green state, but same time held in the heat of a fire, when full, the ends of acquire the fragrance and flavor of Chinese tea when dried. the bamboos are tied up with leaves, and hung up in The Singphos and Kamptees are in the habit of drinking places where they may be exposed to the smoke of the an infusion of the leaves, which I have lately understood fire. Thus prepared, the tea is said to keep good for years. they prepare by pulling them into small pieces, taking out In other places, the natives have a different mode of the stalks and fibres, boiling and squeezing them into a manufacture. Holes are dug in the earth, the sides of which ball, which they dry in the sun and retain for use. I have are lined with large leaves. The tea is then boiled, the written to Suddya for a specimen of tea prepared in this decoction thrown away, and the leaves themselves are manner, and for plants and seeds; I will send you some if buried in the earth. This is done with a view to reducing I am able to procure them ……….’ the leaves to a state of fermentation; and when this has A few months after Tea Committee’s acceptance of been effected, the leaves are put into hollow bamboos, indigenous tea found in Upper Assam to be genuine tea and thus prepared are taken to market. When intended for on 24th December, 1834, Mr. Gordon, Secretary of the Tea use, the leaves are boiled and the infusion is drunk. Committee, was sent to China to bring tea plants and also The Butias are said to be particularly attached to a select rather than numerous body of planters; men this beverage. Their supplies are, however, imported qualified to conduct any operation connected with the overland from Pekin. The liquor they drink is extremely production of good tea, from the selection of a proper site unlike what we are used to under the same name. It is a for plantation, to the gathering of the leaf, its preparation compound of water, flour, butter, salt and bohea tea1, with and packing.’19 The Chinese experts applied advanced technique of a Bohea tea – A whole leaf grade of black tea produced in the past Chinese knowhow on manufacturing of tea, and they

370 SCIENCE AND CULTURE, SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER, 2011 started manufacturing of tea in Assam from indigenous modern life style of faster pace, demand for ready-to-drink tea plants of wild tracts of Upper Assam forests. The first variants of tea has been rising. Tea bag, instant tea along despatch of twenty chests of Assam tea to London in with value added forms of tea (addition of tulsi (basil) leaf May, 1838, for auction was made by the Chinese from and other medicinal plants, cardamom, mint, spices etc.) Assam jats. The Chinese experts taught the local Assamese have been popular in the elite segments of drinkers since people the technique of plants to manufacturing of black long. The century old premier tea research institute situated and green tea. In the years that followed, teas made with in Assam, Tocklai Experimental Station, has been carrying Chinese technique were despatched to London from out research to develop diversified forms of tea, and has Assam, and slowly the habit of drinking black tea grow been very successful in many such innovations. The R&D among the local people. efforts of Tocklai scientists over the years have resulted in successfully bringing out such various innovative ready- An analysis of tea drinking habit amongst the various to-use forms made of tea like tea tablet, tea toffee etc. tribes of Assam revealed its regular use in day to day life, which can be conveniently carried due to smaller size, and forming an unavoidable habitual drink of daily life. Most can be taken anywhere, anytime whenever one feels like of the tribal people drink tea without adding milk and sugar taking a cup of tea. It gives the full taste and occasionally to regularly two to three times a day. Tea is characteristics of tea without really having to use found to be not very popular among the tribes – the conventional forms of it to make the brew. The flavor Deoris, the Hmars, the Karbis, the Mishings; while it is extracted has also been used to make cakes, biscuits and drunk twice to thrice daily by the Barmans of Cachar, the other confectionaries. The scientists of Tocklai are still Sonowal Kacharis, the Zeme Nagas, the Khasis, the Dimasa into further research on this front for coming out with Kacharis and the Lalungs. The Meches though mostly new forms for the future generation, so that the drink of drink tea without milk or sugar; they are not averse towards antiquity never loses its appeal and popularity in the years drinking tea with milk. However, there have been to come. tremendous changes in the life style of the tribal people living in semi-urban or urban areas, who are in the habit Conclusion of drinking tea regularly two to four times a day with milk and sugar. 20, 21, 22 The most popular beverage of the world of time Among the large population of tea garden workers immemorial has undergone an unbelievably long journey of Assam, drinking tea is a part of their daily life. The of acceptance and popularity in various countries of the practice of offering them the hot brew while working in world cutting across barriers of race, religion, culture and tea plantation is still continuing. It may also be mentioned geographical division. In fact, the drink has grown in that preparation made of tea flowers is also very popular strength over the years. Now, the tea drinkers have so among them. much varieties and new innovative forms to choose the right one of his or her liking. The scientific discovery of The present generation of the Singphos has numerous intrinsic medicinal properties in it had only endeavoured to make the original method of tea preparation added to the passion of the tea drinkers making it more popular abroad. The concept of making tea coins of organic acceptable. It has made tea – the health drink more tea made in that way (a mixture of oolong and green tea) acceptable to the health conscious present generation. Tea has been used by entrepreneurial descendents of the drinking with its cultural heritage and acceptance of present Singpho tribe. Such tea coins ‘Phalap’ (meaning generations after generations is a remarkable unique story tea in Singpho language, also ‘fanap’ as mentioned earlier) of mankind. The popularity, acceptance and consumption have found buyers in export market.23 of tea are increasing over the years. The present trend Role of R&D and Tocklai in Diversification signifies that it will be so in the years to come. Tea drinking has now been accepted as part of a healthy life style. It Although tea drinking habits have their own may aptly be termed as a timeless drink of the past, present traditional values, with the progress of time tea drinking and the future – an eternal drink of health and pleasure, has undergone significant transformation. Convenience is an elixir of life. being considered to be more acceptable than tradition resulting in the concept of product diversification. Product Acknowledgement diversification is essential for sustained demand and popularity of a commodity. With the changing time and The author puts on record his sincere gratitude to

VOL. 77, NOS. 9–10 371 Dr. M. Hazarika, Director, Tocklai Experimental Station, for Ensuring the Future of Tea at Tocklai Tea Centenary the concept and guidance in writing this article. Conference, New Delhi, 10-11 May, 2010. 13. Anjan Baruah, (1991). Translated from Assamese ‘Vishwa Bandito Chah Shilpa’. First edition, Jorhat References 14. Sir Edward Gait, (1984). A , third edition 1. Pradip Baruah, The Tea Industry of Assam: Origin and (reprint), L.B.S. Publications, . Development. First publish, EBH Publishers (India), 15. Topography of Assam, First published in 1837, reprinted Guwahati. (2008). 1975. Reproduced from ‘Contribution of Singpho Tribe in 2. D. K. Taknet, The Heritage of Indian Tea. First publish, Indian Tea’, Paritosh Kumar Dutta, The Assam Review Indian Institute of Marwari Entrepreneurship, Jaipur. (2002). and Tea News, pp 9-20, December, 1981. 3. Encyclopaedia Britannica, 1994-2002. 16. Aniruddha Deka and Madan Taparia (1999). Op cit. 4. Wikipedia. Retrieved 18.08.2011. 17. William Robinson (1841). A Descriptive Account of Assam. First published in 1841, Reprinted in 1975, pp 127-135, 5. Pradip Baruah, (2008). Op cit. Sanskaran Prakashak, Delhi. 6. Aniruddha Deka and Madan Taparia, (1999). Dictionary 18. Sir Percival Griffiths, (1967). Tea in India (Chapter Four), of Tea. First publish, Computech India, Jorhat, Assam. The History of the Indian Tea Industry, pp 33-58, 7. Review in Literary Magazine, Vol. 2, 13 (1757), Oxford Weidenfeld and Nicolson, London. Dictionary of Quotations, edited by Elizabeth Knowels, 19. Sir Percival Griffiths (1967). Op cit. seventh edition, 2009, Oxford University Press, London. 20. B.N. Bordoloi, G. C. Sharmah Thakur and M.C. , 8. C.R. Harlar, (1933). The Culture and Marketing of Tea. (1987). Tribes of Assam, Part I. First edition, Tribal First edition, Humphrey Milford, Oxford University Press, Research Institute, Guwahati. London. 21. B.N. Bordoloi and G.C. Sharmah Thakur, (1988). Tribes 9. John Griffiths, (2007). Tea: The Drink that Changed the of Assam, Part II. First edition, Tribal Research Institute, World. First edition, p7, Andre Deutch, London. Guwahati. 10. Aniruddha Deka and Madan Taparia, (1999). Op cit. 22. B.N. Bordoloi, (1991). Tribes of Assam, Part III. First 11. C.R. Harlar, (1933). Op cit. edition, Assam Institute of Research for Tribals and Schedule 12. Joseph P. Simaranay, (2010). ‘Concept of Safe Tea: A Castes, Guwahati. Consumer Point of View’. Paper presented at Infinitea, 23. Sangita Das, (2009). ‘A Brew Story’, The Assam Tribune, 29 March.

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