Couscous: Ethnic Making and Consumption Patterns in the Northeast of Algeria Loucif Chemache, Farida Kehal, Hacène Namoune, Makhlouf Chaalal, Mohammed Gagaoua
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Couscous: Ethnic making and consumption patterns in the Northeast of Algeria Loucif Chemache, Farida Kehal, Hacène Namoune, Makhlouf Chaalal, Mohammed Gagaoua To cite this version: Loucif Chemache, Farida Kehal, Hacène Namoune, Makhlouf Chaalal, Mohammed Gagaoua. Cous- cous: Ethnic making and consumption patterns in the Northeast of Algeria. Journal of Ethnic Foods, Korea Food Research Institute/Elsevier, 2018, 5 (3), pp.211-219. 10.1016/j.jef.2018.08.002. hal- 01925635 HAL Id: hal-01925635 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01925635 Submitted on 16 Nov 2018 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. Distributed under a Creative Commons Attribution - NonCommercial - NoDerivatives| 4.0 International License Journal of Ethnic Foods xx (2018) 1e9 Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Journal of Ethnic Foods journal homepage: http://journalofethnicfoods.net Original Article Couscous: Ethnic making and consumption patterns in the Northeast of Algeria ** Loucif Chemache a, , Farida Kehal b, Hacene Namoune a, Makhlouf Chaalal a, * Mohammed Gagaoua c, a Laboratoire de Nutrition et Technologie Alimentaire (LNTA), Institut de la Nutrition, de l’Alimentation et des Technologies Agro-Alimentaires (INATAA), UniversiteFreres Mentouri Constantine 1, Route de Ain-El-Bey, Constantine, Algeria b Laboratoire de Biotechnologie et Qualite des Aliments (BIOQUAL), Institut de la Nutrition, de l’Alimentation et des Technologies Agro-Alimentaires (INATAA), UniversiteFreres Mentouri Constantine 1, Route de Ain-El-Bey 25000, Constantine, Algeria c Universite Clermont Auvergne, INRA, VetAgro Sup, UMR Herbivores, Saint-Genes-Champanelle, 63122, France article info abstract Article history: Couscous is an ancient dish that is nearly ubiquitous throughout the North African countries. It is well Received 29 April 2018 known as a staple dish in Algeria as many differences can be found concerning its ethnic preparation and Received in revised form making. The present work, based on a survey, aimed to identify the traditional making diagram of 13 August 2018 couscous and to describe how couscous-based dishes are prepared. The consumption patterns were also Accepted 15 August 2018 identified in the Northeastern localities of Algeria. This study was undertaken through direct interviews Available online xxx with 517 persons who prepared Couscous using the traditional practices in the regions of Bejaia, Jijel, Constantine, Guelma, Oum El bouaghi, Khenchela, and Batna. From the survey, it seems that the first step Keywords: fi > m Algeria of couscous making is a size classi cation of durum wheat semolina into coarse semolina ( 500 m) and fi < m Couscous ne semolina ( 500 m). The second step consists in steaming of coarse semolina before its hydration Couscous-based dishes with salted water. The rolling calibration includes three substeps: nucleation, shaping, and finishing. The Semolina addition of cornstarch or wheat flour is performed during the finishing substep. After wet couscous Traditional preparation steaming, the precooked couscous is dried under the shade followed by their exposure to the sun. The final step of couscous preparation is the packaging of dried couscous by adding some preservative and flavoring products. Couscous is prepared for several local events, family celebrations, or religious feasts with vegetable sauces and different meat sources such as red meat, chicken meat, fish, or ethnic meat- based products such as guedid, douara, bouzelouf, or merguez. Another variant of couscous, mesfouf,is further prepared with finely rolled semolina and some butter. © 2018 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). 1. Introduction final couscous. The high quality of couscous is defined as a product with regular and homogeneous particle size, which must be amber Couscous is a worldwide cereal product prepared by wet yellow. After cooking, the grains of couscous should remain indi- agglomeration of durum wheat semolina [1e3] that has been vidualized without disintegrating or sticking together [5]. subjected to physical treatments such as steaming and drying. The In Algeria, the traditionally (ethnic) prepared couscous began to couscous is eaten salty, sweet, with fresh and fermented milk (l'ben be less consumed in favor of the industrial one. This may be and raib), and with different kinds of meat or ethnic meat-based explained by the lack of commercial availability and gradual products [4]. decadence of the traditional practices due to globalization. In The different physicochemical changes induced by the agglom- addition, the reason would be due to sociological and economic eration steps confer its technological and sensory properties to the aspects related to the women's activities outside the home. Furthermore, despite the progress achieved at the industrial scale, * Corresponding author. Equipe BIOM, Universite Clermont Auvergne, INRA, reproducing the quality of traditional couscous remains a chal- VetAgro Sup, UMR Herbivores, F-63122 Saint-Genes-Champanelle, France. lenging task for the manufacturers. Accordingly, the consumption ** Corresponding author. tendency of industrial couscous is accompanied by its disqualifi- E-mail addresses: [email protected], [email protected] cation compared with traditional couscous, and consumers attest (L. Chemache), [email protected], [email protected] (M. Gagaoua). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2018.08.002 2352-6181/© 2018 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/ licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). Please cite this article in press as: Chemache L, et al., Couscous: Ethnic making and consumption patterns in the Northeast of Algeria, Journal of Ethnic Foods (2018), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2018.08.002 2 L. Chemache et al / Journal of Ethnic Foods xx (2018) 1e9 that homemade couscous is better [6,7]. On another hand, tradi- traditional double-chambered food steamer used by North Africans tional preparation practices are a very complex as there are dif- (in Berber and Arabic cuisines), and now worldwide, to cook cous- ferences from a country to another, from a region to another, and cous. The steam-cooking pot is called couscoussier in French, from a manufacturer to another. Some studies have investigated the taseksut in Berber, and kaskas in Arabic. As shown in Fig. 1,itis differences between industrial and traditional couscous [8e10]. typically made of two interlocking pots, of either the traditional Similarly, others studies have assessed the quality of couscous ceramic or metal (steel, aluminum, or copper). The first, the base, produced by various industrial processes [11e13]. which is the larger one, holds water or soup used to produce steam This article aims to report the traditional couscous making in the in the meat and vegetables to be cooked as a stew. The second, the Northeast of Algeria and to identify the traditional diagram of smaller pot, which is designed to be placed on the top, has a lid and couscous making and preparation by describing the main prepa- perforated floor, so that it holds the couscous in place while allowing ration steps and practices related to the knowledge of people on the steam to enter and seep through the grains, letting the couscous couscous making in Algeria. In addition, the sociocultural and absorb the flavor from the stew. Once the couscous is steam cooked, religious aspects, the preparation, and the consumption patterns of the lower pot is kept at simmer until the cooking is complete, and couscous-based dishes were reported. Moreover, the results of a the prepared dish is served. survey carried out in different localities in the Northeast of Algeria Concerning the origin of couscous, different viewpoints were with families preparing durum wheat couscous were reported. postulated, but the most prevalent is that of Berber origin. For example, the culinary historian Lucie Bolens describes primitive 2. Couscous in Algeria: tradition, history, sociocultural pots that very closely resemble the main cooking utensil of cous- aspects, and consumption patterns cous, which is couscoussier found in tombs in Kabylia dating back to the reign of Berber king Massinissa between 238 and 149 BC [15].On Couscous or seksu ( ) in Berber language or kuskus in Arabic another hand, it is in North Africa that nearly two thousand years is by origin a Numidian (the Berber population of Numidia) dish of ago, the Berbers invented an original way to prepare the semolina of small steamed balls of crushed durum wheat semolina that is wheat: rolling it, slightly moistened, into small spherical and suc- traditionally served with a stew spooned on top. However, there are culent grains, light, fragrant, and nourishing, giving a fluffy mass. few scientific publications that are reported about this ethnic food Neither in the ancient world nor in the oriental Arab world are we