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ROYAL MAGNIFICENCE in MARRAKECH an Extraordinary Hotel, Evocative Architecture, Vibrant Souks, Exotic Cuisine

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ROYAL MAGNIFICENCE in MARRAKECH an Extraordinary Hotel, Evocative Architecture, Vibrant Souks, Exotic Cuisine This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected]. THIS MONTH: MARRAKECH, MOROCCAN DESERTS AND MOUNTAINS, AND LYON ONLINE: TOP BORDEAUX WINE CH ÂTEAUX MAY 2018 SINCE 1979 Traveling the world in search of truly enchanting places Spa lobby at Royal Mansour ROYAL MAGNIFICENCE IN MARRAKECH An extraordinary hotel, evocative architecture, vibrant souks, exotic cuisine lthough Marrakech has outgrown its as one Berber guide put it, “This is the from small converted riads (traditional Acrenellated pink ramparts, and the Maghreb, not the Middle East.” Morocco courtyard houses) hidden deep in the numerous flights into its airport make remains a moderate and welcoming medina to big-name luxury resorts the city easily accessible from the rest of country. The call of the muezzin floats in the Palmeraie outside of town. the world, you only have to turn a corner over Marrakech five times a day, and Newer Palmeraie properties such as in the medina to find scenes of local life consuming alcohol in public is forbidden, the Four Seasons Resort Marrakech unchanged in centuries: a baker standing but numerous restaurants serve drinks, and the Mandarin Oriental, Marrakech before an ancient wood-fired oven; a and Morocco even has a surprisingly compete with Amanjena, but I see no craftsman beating brass with a wooden high-quality wine industry. Several of my evidence that they surpass my longtime PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER mallet; a dyer with stained hands working guides referred to Morocco’s rich Jewish recommendation. So on this trip, I beneath gaudy skeins of silk. history with pride. confined myself to hotels in walking The thought of a vacation in Marrakech Visitors can choose from a bewildering distance of the Djemaa el-Fna, the large can be daunting to some travelers. But array of accommodations, ranging square where snake charmers, musicians Andrew Harper editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses. Since the launch of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report in 1979, the featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Central courtyard (below), and rooftop terrace, bath and ground-level vestibule of our Premier Riad at Royal Mansour in the main courtyard, an expanse of marble and mosaic tile centerpieced by A network of underground a perfumed fountain. Reception was a PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER “tunnels connects all the room of semiprecious stone tile, carved accommodations with the plaster, intricately wrought screens and Murano-style glass, capped by a cupola main building and its kitchens, with a star-inspired pattern gilded in allowing employees to service silver. A staff member gave us a tour Another woodburning fireplace stood each riad all but unseen. of the grounds, laced with little canals near sun loungers and a plunge pool. The and shaded by mature palms, before man who brought our tea came through taking us to our accommodations. We a staff entrance — each floor of our riad and dancers entertain tourists and locals had been upgraded from an entry-level conveniently had one — and a network alike, as they have for centuries. 1,500-square-foot Superior Riad to a of underground tunnels that connects Deciding, it seems, that his country’s 1,900-square-foot Premier Riad. all the accommodations with the main premier tourist destination needed a Beyond our tiled entry courtyard building and its kitchens. showpiece hotel, the king of Morocco was an exotic vestibule with a cushion- After a delicious light lunch outside created the Royal Mansour. It opened strewn banquette. The living room had at Le Jardin, a restaurant that serves in 2010, but it wasn’t until late 2016 that a woodburning fireplace, walls covered Moroccan and Japanese cuisine, we the 53-riad hotel completed its outdoor with hand-painted wainscoting and walked over to the nearby swimming pool and gardens. embroidered silk, plaster moldings and a pool. More mature palms and olive trees The king used an almost unlimited wood-beamed ceiling. Upstairs, a wall of surround this turquoise expanse, which PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER budget to take full advantage of the carved plaster backed the king bed, and can be enjoyed from a cushioned sun country’s rich tradition of craftsmanship, a room-width wood screen separated the lounger or one of seven private pavilions. employing some 1,200 artisans with walk-in closet. The adjacent master bath We were tempted to recline by the pool specialties in geometric zellij tile work, could hardly have been more sumptuous, for the remainder of the afternoon, but a plaster carving, woodwork, stone inlay with carved marble walls, marble accent hammam appointment beckoned. and painting. Only in Morocco, a country strips inlaid with a spiraling vine pattern I accompanied my spouse to the with both an absolute monarch and a and dual vessel sinks each hewed from a immense spa, where a candlelit entry 1,000-year-old decorative heritage, would single piece of marble. tunnel opens theatrically onto a soaring such a hotel be possible. Up one more flight of stairs we found lounge. Ninety minutes later she emerged After passing through the monumental the roof terrace, where we had mint tea from her treatment looking thoroughly entry gate, we had a relaxed check-in while reclining on a shaded daybed. relaxed and refreshed. 2 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT MAY 2018 In the evening, we went in search review was overdue. A red-caped doorman firm bed enclosed in an elaborate nickel of aperitifs. Two bar-lounges flank a led us down the brick-lined alley to a door frame. Two sizable closets flanked the courtyard with an orange blossom-scented guarded by a metal detector, the beeping door to the impressive bath, where a fresco fountain: the Royal Mansour Bar, notable of which was ignored by the staff for the of rhinos overlooked a deep pink-marble for the net of brass vines arcing over duration of our stay. Once past “security,” tub. Carved marble columns flanked both the tables, and the masculine Chimney we were warmly greeted at the front desk of the polished brass sinks. Lounge, with an extraordinary ceiling of with cool towels, almond-stuffed dates The next day, we enjoyed a cooking muqarnas (honeycomb coffers). We had and little bowls of chilled almond milk. class on the roof terrace. And after a expertly mixed cocktails in the latter. Since housekeeping was putting the lunch of taktouka (a salad of tomato and Our dinner in the lavish Moroccan final touches to our Suite Deluxe, we sat roasted peppers), and fish tagine that restaurant La Grande Table Marocaine down to some mint tea in the garden-filled we had made, I headed to the spa. Its began with a ewer of orange-flower water Scheherazade Riad, one of five courtyards centerpiece is a narrow pool lined by a with which to wash and perfume our hands. comprising the main public spaces of the pink tadelakt (polished plaster) colonnade, We relished every gorgeously presented hotel. Each has its own style; the romantic with treatment rooms and loungers on dish of the eight-course tasting menu, Saadian Riad, for example, has elaborate either side. My steam and scrub seemed followed by a selection from the Moroccan zellij-tile floors and intricately carved very authentic, in that it was mercilessly pastry cart. Standout courses included dark woodwork, whereas the Bahia Riad, vigorous. But when it was finished, I felt spiny lobster in an orange-mustard sauce where our suite was located, has bright both relaxed and revived. I reclined, with beet purée, and lamb with Moroccan stucco walls surrounding a hexagonal hot awaiting my massage therapist. Her black truffle. A lapis-paved courtyard with tub set into a white-marble floor. technique was excellent, but she made a silver fountain separates this restaurant Our suite occupied the ground floor of a poor first impression by approaching from La Grand Table Française, an equally the riad, and I have a hard time believing with a tray of scented argan oils that she opulent dining venue with a French menu. that it measured the advertised 650 to 750 placed on my lap. A client is not a table. PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER Michelin three-star chef Yannick Alléno square feet. There wasn’t room for a sofa. Dinner, too, was hit-and-miss. I loved oversees both kitchens. In reality, it was a small junior suite, with the candlelit setting by the swimming After breakfast, the dismal reality two red-and-gold armchairs (showing pool, enhanced by a musician strumming of checkout was upon us. Now I know wear on the arms), pink-and-white marble an oud (lute). Our server was both friendly how Sultan Muhammad XII felt when floors and an orange area rug that was and efficient, but the pigeon pastilla, he was ejected from the Alhambra. Very either an antique or just tired. I did like a pie of phyllo-like dough topped with rarely have I experienced such a perfect the half-domed (nonfunctional) fireplace powdered sugar, tasted too sweet, and combination of flawless service and set against a wall of carved plaster, the the shrimp in my seafood couscous had exquisitely opulent décor. It felt painful grand Murano-style chandelier and the a rather grainy texture. to sit down in the house Bentley for our complimentary departure transfer.
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