Resourcefulness, Belonging and Island Life in the Harris Tweed Industry of the Outer Hebrides of Scotland

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Resourcefulness, Belonging and Island Life in the Harris Tweed Industry of the Outer Hebrides of Scotland Working the fabric: resourcefulness, belonging and island life in the Harris Tweed industry of the Outer Hebrides of Scotland A thesis submitted to the University of Manchester for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Faculty of Humanities 2019 Joana S. Nascimento Social Anthropology, School of Social Sciences Blank page 2 Table of Contents List of figures ................................................................................................................... 7 Abstract .......................................................................................................................... 11 Declaration ..................................................................................................................... 13 Copyright statement ..................................................................................................... 13 A note on pseudonyms and illustrations ...................................................................... 15 Acknowledgements ........................................................................................................ 17 Abbreviations ................................................................................................................ 19 Introduction. Working the fabric ........................................................................ 23 1. Introduction ............................................................................................................. 23 2. An industry of paradoxes: Harris Tweed, the islands, and the world ..................... 29 3. Crofting and weaving: resourcefulness, precariousness, and anticipation .............. 35 4. Working the fabric: land, labour and belonging ..................................................... 39 5. The thesis chapter by chapter ................................................................................. 47 Chapter 1. Where Harris Tweed is made: ‘remoteness’, resourcefulness and island life .............................................................................................................. 51 1. Introduction ............................................................................................................. 51 2. People, place, and the making of livelihoods, values, and histories ....................... 60 3. ‘From the land comes the cloth’ .............................................................................. 62 4. Challenging ‘remoteness’: perceptions, representations, and experiences of ‘island life’ ............................................................................................................................... 68 4.1. Remote from where? ......................................................................................... 68 4.2. ‘Remoteness’, frontiers, and provenance ......................................................... 73 4.3. ‘Remoteness’, resourcefulness, and Island Proofing ....................................... 77 5. Protecting the Harris Tweed industry, local livelihoods, and the common good .... 80 6. Conclusion ............................................................................................................... 84 3 Chapter 2. Following the tweed van: road stories, productive encounters, and local experiences of a global industry ......................................................... 89 1. Introduction ............................................................................................................ 89 2. On the road ............................................................................................................. 95 3. Following the tweed van ........................................................................................ 98 4. Road stories and personal narratives .................................................................... 104 5. Conclusion ............................................................................................................ 109 Chapter 3. Time, work and value in Harris Tweed weaving ..................... 113 1. Introduction .......................................................................................................... 113 2. Time and value, work and life .............................................................................. 119 2.1. Work time, ‘value’ and ‘values’ ..................................................................... 119 2.2. Work time and Marx’s labour theory of value ............................................... 121 2.3. Work time, discipline, and everyday experiences of work ............................. 123 3. Weaving work and life .......................................................................................... 126 3.1. Working from home ...................................................................................... 126 3.2. Time, work and family life ............................................................................. 127 3.3. Patience, uncertainty and perceptions of time .............................................. 129 3.4. Time, labour flexibility and ‘freedom’ ........................................................... 133 3.5. Time, productivity and work rhythms ............................................................ 135 3.6. Pride, vocation, and self-discipline ............................................................... 137 4. Conclusion ............................................................................................................ 141 Chapter 4. Weaving lives and livelihoods: anticipation, personal narratives, and the pursuit of a good life .......................................................... 143 1. Introduction ........................................................................................................... 143 2. Living through the highs and the lows .................................................................. 148 2.1. Anticipation: from labour histories to personal narratives .......................... 148 2.2. New looms, old concerns, renewed hopes ..................................................... 154 3. A life worth leading: ‘local’ livelihood strategies and the pursuit of a good life . 159 3.1. Resourceful lives and livelihoods: occupational pluralism and diverse career histories ................................................................................................................. 159 3.2. Work satisfaction, place-making, and the pursuit of ‘good lives’ ................. 165 4. Conclusion ............................................................................................................ 172 4 Chapter 5. Manufacturing repertoires: the politics and poetics of production, ‘tradition’ and representation ......................................................... 175 1. Introduction ........................................................................................................... 175 2. ‘Representing’ the industry ................................................................................... 178 3. Shared repertoires .................................................................................................. 181 4. ‘Speaking our language’ ........................................................................................ 186 5. On production: between inherited and living repertoires ...................................... 195 5.1. Shared work, rhythms, and patterns .............................................................. 195 5.2. Protecting the industry and ‘respecting the cloth’ ......................................... 200 5.3. Inheritance and ‘living history’ ...................................................................... 202 6. Conclusion ............................................................................................................. 204 Conclusion. On stamping and beyond ............................................................... 207 1. ‘Finishing’ as a new beginning ............................................................................. 207 References .................................................................................................................... 219 Word count: 75,829 5 Blank page 6 List of figures Fig. i.1. Map of the Outer Hebrides. 21 Fig. 0.1. HTA-issued label over Harris Tweed in a grey Herringbone 24 pattern. (Image courtesy © HTA) Fig. 0.2. Stamping of the Orb trademark (n.d.) (Image courtesy © HTA) 24 Fig. 0.3. Some of the stages of production in the Harris Tweed industry. 31 Stages a. to f. and i. to l. take place at the mills, while stages g. and h. take place at weavers’ domestic loomsheds. Fig. 0.4. Meters of cloth stamped with the ‘Orb’ Trademark between 37 1911 and 2016. (Source: HTA November 2017, personal communication) Fig. 1.1. Celebrated Harris Tweed weaver Marion Campbell (MBE) 54 scraping crotal from the rocks with a spoon in Harris (n.d.). (Image courtesy Harris Tweed Isle of Harris) Fig. 1.2. Crotal (and other lichens and mosses) on a rock on the west 54 side of Lewis. Fig. 1.3. Carrying peat in creels. (Image courtesy Gairloch Museum and 57 Archive) Fig. 1.4. Some of the indigenous plants used, in the past, for producing 64 natural wool dyes in the Outer Hebrides (Source: Thompson 1969: 38). Fig. 1.5. Palette of dyed wool used as reference for specific yarn colour 65 ‘recipes’. Figs. 1.6. and 1.7. Two still frames from the 1958 film ‘Off the Map’, 68 filmed by Tom Steel and sponsored by the National Trust for Scotland. The piece, which is nearly 27 minutes long, is ’a travelogue
Recommended publications
  • The Balmoral Tartan
    The Balmoral Tartan Introduction The Balmoral tartan (Fig 1) is said to have been designed in 1853 by Prince Albert, The Prince Consort, Queen Victoria's husband. It is unique in several respects: it is the only tartan known to have been designed by a member of the Royal Family; has a unique construction; and is reserved for members of the Royal Family. It is worn by HM The Queen and several members of the Royal Family but only with the Queen's permission. The only other approved wearers of the Balmoral tartan are the Piper to the Sovereign and pipers on the Balmoral Estate (estate workers and ghillies wear the Balmoral tweed). Fig 1. Specimen of the original Balmoral Tartan c1865. © The Author. There is some confusion over the exact date of the original design. In 1893 D.W. Stewarti wrote, ''Her Majesty the Queen has not only granted permission for its publication here, but has also graciously afforded information concerning its inception in the early years of the reign, when the sett was designed by the Prince Consort.'' Harrison (1968) ii states that both the Balmoral tartan and Tweed were designed by Prince Albert. Writing of the tartan specimen in Stewart’s Old & Rare Harrison noted that “The illustrations were all woven in fine silk which did not allow of (sic) the reproduction of the pure black and white twist effect of the original. Mr Stewart compromised by using shades of dull mauve as the nearest that his materials allowed. Thus, for generations the Balmoral was looked upon not as a pure grey scheme but as a scheme of very quiet mauves” (Fig 2).
    [Show full text]
  • Modh-Textiles-Scotland-Issue-4.Pdf
    A TEXTILES SCOTLAND PUBLICATION JANUARY 2013 AN ENCHANTING ESCAPE IN SCOTLAND FABULOUS FABRIC AND DETAILED DESIGN FASHION FOUNDRY NURTURING SCOTTISH TALENT contents Editor’s Note Setting the Scene 3 Welcome from Stewart Roxburgh 21 Make a statement in any room with inspired wallpaper Ten Must-Haves for this Season An Enchanting Escape 4 Some of the cutest products on offer this season 23 A fashionable stay in Scotland Fabulous Fabric Fashion Foundry 6 Uncovering the wealth of quality fabric in Scotland 32 Inspirational hub for a new generation Fashion with Passion Devil is in the Detail 12 Guest contributor Eric Musgrave shares his 38 Dedicated craftsmanship from start to fi nish thoughts on Scottish textiles Our World of Interiors Find us 18 Guest contributor Ronda Carman on why Scotland 44 Why not get in touch – you know you want to! has the interiors market fi rmly sewn up FRONT COVER Helena wears: Jacquard Woven Plaid with Herringbone 100% Merino Wool Fabric in Hair by Calzeat; Poppy Soft Cupsilk Bra by Iona Crawford and contributors Lucynda Lace in Ivory by MYB Textiles. Thanks to: Our fi rst ever guest contributors – Eric Musgrave and Ronda Carman. Read Eric’s thoughts on the Scottish textiles industry on page 12 and Ronda’s insights on Scottish interiors on page 18. And our main photoshoot team – photographer Anna Isola Crolla and assistant Solen; creative director/stylist Chris Hunt and assistant Emma Jackson; hair-stylist Gary Lees using tecni.art by L’Oreal Professionnel and the ‘O’ and irons by Cloud Nine, and make-up artist Ana Cruzalegui using WE ARE FAUX and Nars products.
    [Show full text]
  • Kilts & Tartan
    Kilts & Tartan Made Easy An expert insider’s frank views and simple tips Dr Nicholas J. Fiddes Founder, Scotweb Governor, Why YOU should wear a kilt, & what kind of kilt to get How to source true quality & avoid the swindlers Find your own tartans & get the best materials Know the outfit for any event & understand accessories This e-book is my gift to you. Please copy & send it to friends! But it was a lot of work, so no plagiarism please. Note my copyright terms below. Version 2.1 – 7 November 2006 This document is copyright Dr Nicholas J. Fiddes (c) 2006. It may be freely copied and circulated only in its entirety and in its original digital format. Individual copies may be printed for personal use only. Internet links should reference the original hosting address, and not host it locally - see back page. It may not otherwise be shared, quoted or reproduced without written permission of the author. Use of any part in any other format without written permission will constitute acceptance of a legal contract for paid licensing of the entire document, at a charge of £20 UK per copy in resultant circulation, including all consequent third party copies. This will be governed by the laws of Scotland. Kilts & Tartan - Made Easy www.clan.com/kiltsandtartan (c) See copyright notice at front Page 1 Why Wear a Kilt? 4 Celebrating Celtic Heritage.................................................................................................. 4 Dressing for Special Occasions..........................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Woven Fabrics
    Fabric – Woven Fabrics WOVEN FABRICS Fabrics are made of yarns by weaving them in different combinations. It is mostly done by interlacing two sets of yarn or thread made of fibers called the warp and weft of the loom. It only stretches in the bias directions, between the warp and weft directions, unless the threads are elastic. Lengthwise stronger vertical yarns with more twist are Warp or Picks while widthwise filling yarns are termed as weft or ends. Sidewise edge of fabric is termed as Selvedge. THREE BASIC WEAVES There are three main types of weave: Plain, Twill and Satin Plain weave is a basic weave which is made when the thread is woven on one up and one down principle, some plain weave fabrics are Chambray, Chiffon, Gingham, and Organza etc. Twill weave is made when the thread is placed by varying the order of interlacing the yarns so that diagonal parallel lines are produced across the fabric. Satin Weave is a weave made when each warp yarn floats over four filling yarns and interlaces with fifth filling yarn. Plain weave Twill weave Satin weave Fabric – Weft Knit Fabrics Knitted Fabrics Knitting is the process of construction of a fabric by interlocking loops of yarn by means of hooked needles. Knitted fabric consists of horizontal rows known as courses and vertical columns of loops known as Wales. Knitted fabrics are porous having insulated air pockets giving warmth when worn. Knitted fabrics are very absorbent, wrinkle resistant and lightweight. They shrink more than woven fabrics unless shrink- proofing techniques are used.
    [Show full text]
  • 10.92 14.99 *V
    J ' •* ,. FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 10,1961 ifta Weeiheir Avenge Dally Net Preea Rm I ^ U. I8.^'WmthMr 1 TfkGK F d m i E E N r v v the VBMk Itodad ± Dim . 91. 1999 VWr mM m U tonight tea Ut MsBOhsater Child Bttt'jiy O f W 13,314 S 86. Snntoy «k*etowlng * « * ■ * , . ' Loyal CIxtila o f K w f’a Daugfetara TV, Radio, Topics Beat Tuesdsy at 1 pja- to JkXLM M W clM aM ^^ Wgkt omnf j iVifaftoy wiU meet In the FUtowaUp Itoera Hospital Notes Buckley Bdwol M br^. F U R N A C E ^ IL MMabMF.nf tiM AndM Into to dky. n gh tet tor leik AbptttTown of Center Concregmtlaoat Oburdi Of Oiild Unit Talk ^IS'subject FlU ^ ^ ABt essalt o PsEfisKr Bnnu «f OMoIntloa Monday a t 7:45 p jn . Co-hoatoaaea M o ^ Today. How Do They iB- Manchetter^A City,of ViUage Chorm Th« atpwr aub wfl » j«t- will be Mra. Clarence Peteraen and VMtfev h m an t ts S p-m flueooo CWldreBT” LT. W O O D C O . t ie i* putty tomorrow ni(ht at 8 tar an aiaaa ' vm M asatonMy R ol^ Dlgwi. M aaolieatpr • t O M U t Mlaa Dorothy PeUraen. A baby-sltttog oervloo tot (GtaMlfM AdvmtWng an Pngn t) •mCE'FIVB CEN«’;'f^:,!| e’dock. publte la Invited. wkan ihsy an t <e « : » aai 8188 seiwol attsBdaaee oftlowr, wiU be school ohlldreo wlU be avaUable at YdL. LXXX, NO. 112 (TEN PA^^S—TV 8®CrnON--SUBU|ffl||A TODAY) MANCHESTER, c 6n n \ SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 1\,.19C1 T Army PrL James A.
    [Show full text]
  • View Lookbook
    BEhiND thE COLLECtiON AUTUMN WINTER 17/18 Sands & Hall has rapidly become synonymous with luxury outerwear and timeless elegance. This collection 2 transforms classic tweeds from Britain and Ireland into 3 innovative and unique fashion forward pieces. THE FITTED CAPE: 4 5 THE FITTED CAPE: A fitted coat with cape overlay. Belted to accentuate the waist. Beautiful finishing with maroon piping, cotton binding and half lining. 6 7 RUBY BLUSH DAMSON WINE ASHEN BLACK MABEL STONE Harris Tweed Donegal Merino/Mohair Mix Harris Tweed Harris Tweed THE OVErsiZED COat: 8 9 THE OVErsiZED COat: An oversized coat with large collar and fold up cuffs. A key outerwear piece with an oversized and cosy fit. Fully lined with beautiful maroon piping. 10 11 MACEY SKY PINK LODEN TayLOR CLassiC ASH EN B L A C K Harris Tweed Loden Steiner Wool Donegal Tweed Harris Tweed THE thrOW CapE: 12 13 THE thrOW CapE: A diverse, multi-functional piece easily draped over the shoulders. Layers well with a multitude of styles for all seasons. Edged with cotton binding. 14 15 GREY HARPER RUBY BLUSH HEPBURN EARTH Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Harris Tweed THE ORIGINAL CAPE: 16 17 THE ORIGINAL CAPE: Our original and classic cape with double breasted leather buttons and high collar that can be worn up or styled down. Fully lined with beautiful maroon piping. 18 19 HEPBURN EARTH PINK HARPER DAMSON WINE MABEL STONE NAVY GRACE BRAXTON ASH Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Donegal Merino/Mohair Mix Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Harris Tweed THE BIKER JACKET: 20 21 THE BIKER JACKET: A classic biker jacket perfectly made from Harris Tweed with metal teeth zips and flat poppers.
    [Show full text]
  • Baseball Caps
    HILLS HATS WINTER LOOKBOOK 2019 TWEED HATS Eske Donegal English Luton Check English Tweed Cheesecutter Tweed Cheesecutter 2540 2541 Navy, Black, Olive Brown, Grey S, M, L, XL, XXL S, M, L, XL, XXL Herefordshire Check English Wiltshire Houndstooth English Tweed Cheesecutter Tweed Cheesecutter 2542 2544 Blue, Green Brown, Grey, Beige, Blue, Fawn S, M, L, XL, XXL S, M, L, XL, XXL Devon Houndstooth Swindon Houndstooth Lambswool Tweed Cheesecutter Lambswool English Tweed Cheesecutter 2552 2573 Blue, Rust Blue, Green, Wine, Fawn S, M, L, XL, XXL S, M, L, XL, XXL 1 Chester Overcheck Hunston Overcheck Lambswool English Tweed Cheesecutter English Tweed Cheesecutter 2574 2554 Blue, Olive, Brown Black, Blue, Brown, Green S, M, L, XL, XXL S, M, L, XL, XXL Saxilby Overcheck English Glencoe Overcheck Lambswool Tweed Cheesecutter Tweed Cheesecutter 2567 2537 Brown, Green Green, Mustard S, M, L, XL, XXL S, M, L, XL, XXL Bingley Check Lambswool Bramford Houndstooth English Tweed Cheesecutter Tweed Cheesecutter 2551 2556 Olive, Blue Blue, Green S, M, L, XL, XXL S, M, L, XL, XXL 2 TWEED HATS Warrington Herringbone English Tweed Cheesecutter 2576 Charcoal, Brown, Khaki S, M, L, XL, XXL English Wool Tweed Patchwork Cheesecutter 300 Blue, Green, Brown S, M, L, XL, XXL Eske Donegal English Tweed 4 Piece Cheesecutter 2570 Black, Navy, Olive S, M, L, XL, XXL 3 Dartford Herringbone English Tweed 4 Piece Cheesecutter 2570 Black, Brown, Blue, Green S, M, L, XL, XXL Bingley Check English Tweed 7 Piece Cheesecutter 2571 Blue, Olive S, M, L, XL, XXL Warrington Herringbone
    [Show full text]
  • [Tweed and Textiles from Early Times to the Present Day]
    [Tweed and Textiles from Early Times to the Present Day] The crofting way of life as it was lived in the Calbost area occupied the time of the whole population; both male and female during the four seasons of the year in a fully diversified way of life. Their work alternated from agriculture, fishing, kelping, weaving and knitting, cattle and sheep etc. etc. Some of that work was seasonal and some work was carried on inside during the winter months when it was difficult to participate in outdoor work because of the weather and the long winter evenings. Distaff – ‘Cuigeal’ The manufacture of cloth on order to protect him from the elements was one of man’s most ancient occupations and spinning was carried out by the distaff and spindle from an early date, yet it is believed that the distaff is still in use in parts of the world today. The distaff was also used extensively in Lewis in times past. A distaff is simply a 3 ft x 1½ inch rounded piece of wood with about 8 inches of one end flattened in order to hold the wool on the outer end as the distaff protrudes out in front of the spinner as she held it under her arm with a tuft of wool at the end. The wool from the distaff was then linked to the spindle ‘Dealgan’ or ‘Fearsaid’ which is held in the opposite hand and given a sharp twist by the fingers at the top of the spindle, in order to put the twist in the yarn as the spindle rotates in a suspended position hanging from the head.
    [Show full text]
  • University of Southampton Research Repository
    University of Southampton Research Repository Copyright © and Moral Rights for this thesis and, where applicable, any accompanying data are retained by the author and/or other copyright owners. A copy can be downloaded for personal non-commercial research or study, without prior permission or charge. This thesis and the accompanying data cannot be reproduced or quoted extensively from without first obtaining permission in writing from the copyright holder/s. The content of the thesis and accompanying research data (where applicable) must not be changed in any way or sold commercially in any format or medium without the formal permission of the copyright holder/s. When referring to this thesis and any accompanying data, full bibliographic details must be given, e.g. Thesis: Author (Year of Submission) "Full thesis title", University of Southampton, name of the University Faculty or School or Department, PhD Thesis, pagination. Data: Author (Year) Title. URI [dataset] University of Southampton Faculty of Arts and Humanities Winchester School of Art Banal and Splendid Form: revaluing textile makers’ social and poetic identity as a strategy for textile manufacturing innovation Volume 1 by Clio Padovani Critical commentary for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy July 2019 University of Southampton Abstract Faculty of Arts and Humanities Winchester School of Art Critical commentary for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Banal and Splendid Form: revaluing textile makers’ social and poetic identity as a strategy for textile manufacturing innovation by Clio Padovani This is a submission for the Award of PhD by Published Works. The commentary on three published submissions organises a programme of work focussed on reframing traditional textile craft skills within the context of innovation and knowledge exchange policies.
    [Show full text]
  • Ronald Mackay a Scotsman Abroad: a Book of Memoirs 1967-1969
    A Book of Memoirs 1967-1969 Spicuiri din istoria Catedrei de Engleză a Universităţii Bucureşti. Edited by C. George Sandulescu and Lidia Vianu Press Release Friday 18 March 2016 Ronald Mackay A Scotsman Abroad: A Book of Memoirs 1967-1969. Spicuiri din istoria Catedrei de Engleză a Universităţii Bucureşti. ISBN 978-606-760-045-2 Edited by C. George Sandulescu and Lidia Vianu. In the 1950’s, an agreement Începând de prin anii ’60, was reached: England was to send Catedra de Engleză a avut două teachers to Romania, within the tipuri de profesori: profesori care framework of a cultural exchange. erau de naţionalitate română şi They started coming to the profesori care erau trimişi din University of Bucharest in the Anglia, pe baza unui acord cultural early sixties. de schimb al cadrelor didactice, The book we are now iniţiat la sfârşitul anilor ’50. publishing is a book of memoirs Vă punem acum la dispoziţie written by Ronald Mackay, a una dintre cărţile de amintiri, scrisă young Scottish graduate who de Ronald Mackay, un profesor taught phonetics in the English scoţian care a predat fonetica la Department at the end of the Universitatea Bucureşti spre sixties. The book is captivating sfârşitul anilor ’60. Descrierile sunt and its author is gifted indeed. pitoreşti, iar autorul dă dovadă de We warmly recommend this mare talent. book to our readers: it will bring Vă recomandăm cu căldură back memories. The incindents să citiţi această carte, care o să vă related in it took place at a time trezească multe amintiri. Perioda when the darkest years of în care s-a aflat el în România a communism in Romania were reprezentat începutul celor mai only beginning.
    [Show full text]
  • Journal 45.Pdf
    GOVERNMENT OF INDIA GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS JOURNAL NO. 45 September 11, 2012 / BHADRA 20, SAKA 1933 INDEX S.No. Particulars Page No. 1. Official Notices 4 2. New G.I Application Details 5 3. Public Notice 6 4. GI Applications Bhagalpur Silk Fabrics & Sarees – GI Application No. 180 7 Mangalagiri Sarees and Fabrics– GI Application No. 198 Madurai Malli – GI Application No. 238 Tequila – GI Application No. 243 5. General Information 6. Registration Process OFFICIAL NOTICES Sub: Notice is given under Rule 41(1) of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Rules, 2002. 1. As per the requirement of Rule 41(1) it is informed that the issue of Journal 45 of the Geographical Indications Journal dated 11th September 2012 / Bhadra 20th, Saka 1933 has been made available to the public from 11th September 2012. NEW G.I APPLICATION DETAILS 371 Shaphee Lanphee 25 Manufactured 372 Wangkhei Phee 25 Manufactured 373 Moirang Pheejin 25 Manufactured 374 Naga Tree Tomato 31 Agricultural 375 Arunachal Orange 31 Agricultural 376 Sikkim Large Cardamom 30 Agricultural 377 Mizo Chilli 30 Agricultural 378 Jhabua Kadaknath Black Chicken Meat 29 Manufactured 379 Devgad Alphonso Mango 31 Agricultural 380 RajKot Patola 24 Handicraft 381 Kangra Paintings 16 Handicraft 382 Joynagarer Moa 30 Food Stuff 383 Kullu Shawl (Logo) 24 Textile 23, 24, 384 Muga Silk of Assam (Logo) 25, 27 & Handicraft 31 385 Nagpur Orange 31 Agricultural PUBLIC NOTICE No.GIR/CG/JNL/2010 Dated 26th February, 2010 WHEREAS Rule 38(2) of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Rules, 2002 provides as follows: “The Registrar may after notification in the Journal put the published Geographical Indications Journal on the internet, website or any other electronic media.” Now therefore, with effect from 1st April, 2010, The Geographical Indications Journal will be Published and hosted in the IPO official website www.ipindia.nic.in free of charge.
    [Show full text]
  • WOOL TEXTILE TERMS Handout for the WRSW Wool Panel Discussion
    WOOL TEXTILE TERMS Handout for the WRSW Wool Panel Discussion Over the years, the wool industry has attempted to standardize wool textile terminology. The following is list of such terms listed in “Twills, Tweeds and All-Wool Fabrics” by Harriet C. Douglas. Public Domain on arizona.edu. Broken Twill – are twills in which one or more shafts are omitted in the threading, but the weaving is regular. Dornik is an example. Cheviot Tweeds – originally from the Cheviot Hills of Scotland. Made from the rough, coarse wool of the Cheviot wool in plain weave or in 2/2 twill, with warp and weft of the same color. Often pieced dyed rather than skein dyed. Combined Twills – are Fancy twills woven in small patterns with broken diagonals and irregular warp and weft skips. Corkscrew Twills – are warp and weft rib twills produced on an uneven number of shafts, by weaving semi-opposites. One of the few twills which is not a balanced weave. Curved Twills – are Fancy twills in which the twill lines have a waved or curved nature. District Checks – is the general name applied to the Scotch Tweed checks developed during the rein of Queen Victoria for hunting and sport wear. They are characterized by a certain boldness of small figures, but “protective coloration”. They include such checks as the Glenns, The Glen Urquharts and the Shepherd check, woven on two, three or four colors. Donegal Tweed – has two types. One is a herringbone weave on a white warp with a dark weft; the other, a plain weave fabric woven with a weft which has colored nubs.
    [Show full text]