Photograph by Delphine Achard Fashion. Beauty. Business. Dior’s New Day SPECIAL EDITION PARIS including variations motifs, onfencing because, she said,sport involves body, In her debut collection for Dior,In herdebutcollection Maria with afresh take dressing, ondaytime Grazia proclaimed Chiuri herascent, mind andpassion. For more onDior and Paris, see pages 5to14. Collections The Paris OCTOBER 3, 2016 creativity ı productions ı logistics

BRANDART BRANDART usa italy www.brandart.it 6 East 74th Street 3rd Floor Via Andrea Costa, 19, 21052 New York NY 10021-USA [email protected] Busto Arsizio (VA)-italy +19173883186 +390331634392 OCTOBER 3, 2016 3

BUSINESS TOP 5 H&M Eyes Launch TRENDING Of New Brands in ’17 ON WWD.COM ● The Swedish fast-fashion The Swedish firm said net profit fell 9.2 in recent years, is gradually beginning to retailer saw third-quarter net percent to 4.82 billion kronor, or $567.6 subside. million, in the three months to Aug. 31, “These big investments, which have profits fall 9.2 percent. 2016. Operating profit dropped 9 percent burdened our profits for a long time, have BY ALEX WYNNE to 6.25 billion kronor, or $735.9 million, been necessary since they have created a resulting in an operating margin of 12.8 good and solid base for sustainable and percent, compared with 14.9 percent a profitable growth,” said Persson. Hennes & Mauritz AB is aiming for a year earlier. “We are investing across the board, and bigger brand portfolio. “The sales performance in the third there [has been] a lot of investment in I.T. In reporting lower third-quarter profits, quarter and increased markdowns due to and technology; that is mainly where we’ll the Swedish fast-fashion retailer said a higher opening stock than planned had see the pace slow down going forward,” it planned to launch one or two retail a negative impact on profit development,” said Vinge . brands next year to add to its existing stated H&M chief executive officer Karl-Jo- In the first nine months of 2016, H&M H&M, COS, Monki, Weekday, Cheap Mon- han Persson. “In addition, profits contin- saw net profit down 17.2 percent to 12.72 day and & Other Stories banners. ued to be negatively affected by the strong billion kroner, or $1.51 billion, while oper- “There are lots of different ideas com- U.S. dollar effect on purchasing costs.” ating profit dropped 17.1 percent to 20.09 ing in, and we are working on several,” Net sales increased 6.4 percent to 48.98 billion kroner, or $2.39 billion. Watch the said H&M head of investor relations Nils billion kroner, or $5.78 billion, H&M said, Sales in the nine-month period grew 5 Vinge during a conference call. “At the while sales including VAT grew 8 percent percent, or 7 percent in local currencies, Valentino Spring moment, there are two very interesting in local currencies. to 161.77 billion kroner, or $19.22 billion. banners we are focusing on. We hope to “Sales were good in most markets until Among H&M’s top-10 markets, reported 2017 Paris launch one, maybe two of them next year. mid-August,” said Persson. “Thereafter revenues declined 1 percent in Germany, “When it comes to new brands and sales were negatively affected by unsea- the retailer’s largest market, and dropped Fashion Week development, we still see a lot of opportu- sonably hot weather which continued into 5 percent in the U.K. and 7 percent in nities,” he said, without going into further September, resulting in a challenging start Switzerland. Sales were flat in France Show Live on detail. to the autumn season.” and China, a key growth market for the H&M opened 211 stores in the nine Sales including VAT in September are company where it opened 47 new stores WWD months to August, and a total of 425 expected to increase just 1 percent in between January and August. Chinese ● Take your front row seat at stores net are planned for 2016 as a local currencies as unseasonably warm sales in local currency grew 5 percent, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first solo whole. Without this expansion, Vinge weather continues in many markets, the H&M said. admitted, sales in comparable stores were retailer said, discouraging the purchase of The strongest sales increases were seen show for Valentino. down “slightly” in the third quarter. winter clothes. in the U.S., where the company opened The group had a total of 4,135 stores at H&M, which has been investing heavily 30 stores in the first nine months of the ● Inés de la Fressange the end of August, including 3,784 under in technology development and global year, and in Sweden. Both countries saw its core H&M banner. expansion as well as rolling out newer revenues increase 7 percent in reported Officially Presents The retailer on Friday reported that its store formats including COS and & Other terms. During Paris Fashion Week third-quarter profits were hit by increased Stories, said the pace of its investment, Currencies are expressed at average markdowns and higher purchasing costs. which has weighed heavily on its profits exchange rates for the period. ■ ● The Duchess of Cambridge Bolsters Sales For Canadian Company Sentaler ACCESSORIES The Heineken collection includes a tote, a ● Are Flip-Flops About backpack, a luggage roller that has a han- dle allowing the tote to slip onto, and a To Go High Fashion? Petry Resigns as special Tumi PAX jacket that converts into ● a neck pillow. The items feature a green Watch the Dior Spring stripe to represent Heineken. 2017 Paris Fashion Week Tumi Creative Director In an interview in April at Tumi's Show Live on WWD offices, Petry said, "We’re excited for what ● As global creative director, the future holds. We will remain a luxury platform in their portfolio. Things don’t Petry was responsible for happen overnight." He said for the near elevating the brand through future at least, “It’s business as usual.” He product design and multiple described the company's outlook as "very NEWSMAKERS positive." high-level collaborations. The fall 2016 line marked the first time This Week’s Most BY LISA LOCKWOOD Petry put his imprint on the collection. Talked About Names “I’m not changing Tumi from black to Michael Petry has resigned his post as white,” Petry said. “I am trying not to In Our Industry global creative director of Tumi, effective alienate anybody. Certainly, this is an today. evolution," he said last spring. Petry joined Tumi in 2015 and was Among recent contributions was the responsible for elevating the brand addition of men's products to the Landon through product design and multiple Michael Petry and Haydon lines, new matte black fin- high-level collaborations and partnerships ishes and paint-splash print finishes and with musicians, athletes and designers. In August, Samsonite International S.A. five additional women’s premium hand- He also led visual merchandising and closed on its deal to acquire Tumi for $1.8 bags called the Mariella collection aimed Stella McCartney Phoebe Philo store design. billion. Samsonite said it was interested in at the modern chief executive officer “for Petry declined to comment on his doubling Tumi's revenues, which stood at all your devices and personal effects.” departure and hasn’t disclosed his plans. $548 million in 2015, in three years. Tumi There is also a woven east-west leather A successor hasn’t been named yet. also disclosed a new collaborative cam- tote as part of the NoHo line for the first Prior to joining Tumi, Petry was senior paign with Heineken aimed at introducing time, and a fall color palette that’s “dark vice president and creative director at the lifestyle brand to a new audience. Past and saturated,” emphasizing navy, pine The Frye Co. for eight years, where he partners for Tumi have included Public and merlot and complemented by “fun is credited with expanding the brand. School, leather goods brand Parabellum, prints” such as an indigo floral print. Last Earlier, he was a senior design director high-end eyewear label Garrett Leight week, the company said women’s is the Demna Gvasalia Jean-Paul Goude for Prada and before that served as senior California Optical, fashion designer Mark brand's fastest-growing business, both design director of footwear for Ralph Lau- McNairy, street gear retailer Kith and at its retail stores and in its wholesale

ren. He began his career at Adidas USA. men’s boutique store Union Los Angeles. business. ■ Dominique Maître Goude by Delphine Achard; by Gvsalia Feugère; Stéphane Philo by Jones/WWD/REX/Shutterstock; Katie by Giannoni; McCartney Giovanni by photograph Valentino OCTOBER 3, 2016 4

BUSINESS Ermenegildo Zegna Group Buys Majority Stake in Bonotto

● As part of the strategic what Bonotto calls the “fabrics of the mem- agreement, the Bonotto family ory,” woven on early 20th century shuttle looms and washed in the traditional way will keep a 40 percent stake in in wooden tanks. This is limited produc- the textile manufacturer. tion for top brands. Bonotto has devised the concept “Slow [manufacturing] Plant, BY LUISA ZARGANI which is a manifesto against industrial stan- dardization and serial, low-cost production. MILAN — In a strategic move, the Ermene- In Bonotto, all machines are mechanical, gildo Zegna Group has taken a controlling not electronic or automatic.” stake in Bonotto SpA, a high-end textile The total area of Bonotto’s plant in Italy manufacturer based in Molvena, near covers about 270,000 square feet with 200 Vicenza. employees. The annual production is more The Bonotto family will continue to own than 3 million square meters. a 40 percent stake and will be in charge of The Zegnas and Bonottos also share management and creative direction. a passion for the arts, and each has a “We share the same values and the same foundation named after its family. Bonotto culture with the Bonotto family and the explained that 17,000 works of art from same attention to the territory, to social the contemporary Fluxus movement from issues and art,” said Gildo Zegna, chief the late 1900s, including pieces from Yoko executive officer of the Trivero, Italy-based Ono, are set up within the manufacturing men’s wear group. The Bonotto family: Giovanni, plant. “We sort of feel like artists ourselves, Zegna declined to disclose the invest- his father, Luigi; wife, Graziella, we create small works of art,” he said. ment, but emphasized that Bonotto is and brother, Lorenzo. “It’s a small but significant operation a healthy, solid company and that the because it strengthens our strategy in tex- agreement was strategic rather than finan- Bonotto comprises three production “Zegna is the Ferrari of our sector, tiles — otherwise luxury would not exist,” cial. “This marks the union of two private units: a style center focused on research with machinery that is technologically said Zegna. businesses in the luxury segment and and development in Molvena; a warping advanced,” said Bonotto. “We don’t have The Zegna group completed its indus- will help us expand our informal fashion and weaving plant by the headquarters the the same product. Where Zegna ends, trial reorganization last year, investing in component and give input into Agnona’s in Molvena where blankets, sample and we begin. We complement each other, and strengthening control of its supply chain. women’s wear,” Zegna explained, refer- production pieces are manufactured, and this can help the performance of produc- Zegna has created a state-of-the-art man- ring to the other brand controlled by his a state-of-the-art dyeing and finishing plant tion. Just like Gildo said, if we make the ufacturing center in San Pietro Mosezzo, family’s group. in nearby Schio. new affluent customers fall in love with us, near Novara, for its clothing division. This He praised Bonotto’s technical know- “We found in Gildo, his family and his they will be our great customers.” is in addition to three centers for the pro- how. “I am fully confident that this adds managers, a family company just like ours, Bonotto underscored the objective for duction of casual garments, outerwear and value to our industrial synergies and the with the same DNA in managing the firm, both companies is to develop their indus- leather apparel, and accessories in Parma, complete pipeline, from sheep to shop, all and the same goals for it, the same passion trial manufacturing and for them both to Italy. A center specializing in knitwear was the steps including finishings. The agree- for people and things, in sync with the ter- mine “uncharted areas such as furnishing set up in Verrone, near Biella, Italy. These ment affords growth opportunities, also ritory and its employees. This is more than and experimental fabrics” to grow. work alongside the historical textile mill in in our informal made-to-measure, with fundamental for us,” said creative director The Zegna group will also have a 33 Trivero. innovation and integration.” Giovanni Bonotto. percent stake in Bonottoeditions, which In 2015, the company saw a 4 percent Founded by Luigi Bonotto in 1912 as a The company has sales of more than 30 created special-edition textiles and design gain in revenues, which reached 1.26 billion straw hat producer, the company is now million euros, or $33.6 million at current objects. Cristiano Seganfreddo will remain euros, or $1.4 billion at average exchange. led by Lorenzo and Giovanni, grandsons exchange, and Bonotto said it has no debt. creative director of Bonottoeditions, which Alessandro Sartori, who left Berluti of the founder and members of the fourth Echoing Zegna, he said this is a deal where has a showroom in Milan. earlier this year, will have responsibility generation, who have steered its inter- the two companies flank one another “to Bonotto’s fabrics, chiefly worsted — man- across all Zegna brands and for all creative national growth. The company relies on grow and develop” their businesses, with ufactured in different qualities, weights and functions as artistic director, a new role. a complete cycle, with direct control of the goal to “improve technology.” Bonotto designs — are suitable for suits, dresses, The collections were previously designed the different stages of production from for fall recently unveiled one-of-a-kind, jackets, skirts, trousers and coats. Bonotto by Stefano Pilati. Sartori joined the group weaving to finishing, and the production upscale scuba materials and air-pocketed has developed processes such as silk in June, and will unveil his first collec- of various seasonal collections available cotton fabrics for ensembles destined for protein finishing, enzyme treatment and tion for fall 2017 with a runway show in globally. the runway. carbon-diamond brushing. There are also January. ■

BUSINESS Tiffany Awarded $5.5M in Costco Suit ● Punitive damages in the suit, Debra Freeman is expected to issue her when Tiffany sued Costco, accusing the for Costco, which has gained share in part which began in 2013, are final judgment. warehouse club of selling engagement rings by offering deep discounts on well-known After the jury’s initial verdict, handed that it passed off as Tiffany-branded rings in brands. expected to be determined down Thursday, Costco said, “Proceedings signs at its Huntington Beach, Calif., store. Another case that landed in the Supreme next week. will immediately follow concerning the The luxe jeweler became aware of the Court had Omega SA challenging Costco’s jury’s determination that Tiffany & Co. is offending signs a few months earlier and right to sell “authentic” Omega watches it BY EVAN CLARK entitled to an award of punitive damages. sent a cease-and-desist letter, and pursued obtained on the gray market. Omega won Because the jury’s deliberations are con- the case even though the signage was that case in a narrow 2010 ruling. The jury in Tiffany & Co. and Costco tinuing, further comment is not appropriate removed, arguing that the brand’s “name Attorney Douglas Hand of Hand Balda- Wholesale Corp.’s mass versus class trade- at this time.” and goodwill” were tarnished. chin & Amburgey described the award as mark lawsuit decided that mass is going to Although a large award in a hard-fought Costco argued that the word “Tiffany” “significant,” noting the jury gave Tiffany have to pay up. legal case, the sum is something of a round- could be considered a generic term for a $1.8 million beyond the $3.7 million Costco A Tiffany spokesman confirmed that the ing error in the grand scheme of things at pronged, solitaire-style ring. But Tiffany was deemed to have gained from selling the jury “awarded Tiffany $5.5 million in actual the two multi-billion dollar companies. prevailed in the case a year ago, with a rings. profits” in the case. Punitive damages are Shares of Tiffany gained 1.8 percent Fri- judge ordering that Costco stop using the “The lesson here is a pretty simple one,” still to be determined and would be added day to $72.63, while Costco’s stock rose 3.4 Tiffany name and logo in its marketing and Hand said. “Don’t appropriate another to that, possibly on Wednesday. Then, in percent to $152.51. merchandising of jewelry. brand’s trademark. It’s a fairly blatant case several weeks, Manhattan Federal Judge The case dates back to February 2013, This is relatively familiar legal territory of trademark appropriation.” ■ OCTOBER 3, 2016 5 The Reviews Dior “It’s a big deal, a big emotion,” Maria Grazia Chiuri said of her move to Dior from Valentino. She arrived just months ago, the first woman to hold the position in a permanent capacity following the departure of Raf Simons last October. “It’s not only about the job, it’s about life,” she said. “It’s about myself.” Fall And also about the life of Dior, one of the most storied and pow- Collections erful luxury brands in the world. The house has seen considerable Paris volatility over the past several years, with the comings and goings of three creative directors, including, in addition to Simons, two interim situations, those of Bill Gaytten and the team of Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier. Chiuri is tasked with charting its next creative direction, with the presumed hope that her vision will drive the house for the foreseeable future. In her first collection, Chiuri proclaimed her ascent boldly and even aggressively, not in the look of the clothes, but in her attention to daytime dressing of a sort that has never taken hold at Dior, including under Simons’ modernist watch. “I want to introduce into the house of Dior a natural attitude, to dress women to feel comfortable, to feel their beauty,” Chiuri said during a preview. “Women want to use the dress to express themselves. In the past, fashion was more imposition — to impose a look. Now, we suggest our style and our idea, and [women translate] the pieces in different ways.” Chiuri started with panache and a fencing motif, the latter because, she noted, the sport involves body, mind and passion. She opened with a white quilted jacket, short and cropped pants, fairly literal but for the jacket’s one sleeve-only tweak. The second look heralded the do-it-your-way concept: a variation on the fencing jacket (this one with two sleeves) over a gentle tiered tulle skirt. Along the way, various subplots emerged, including innerwear (sturdy logoed cotton knits and chi-chi corsetry) and glorious embroideries. And proud to be the first women in her role at Dior, Chiuri tried for a statement of empowerment in a tribute to the writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, whose title “We should all be feminists,” was splashed on a message T-shirt. As a thought — God bless. Visually, it felt a bit out of context, though it did telegraph a new appreciation for casual dressing under Chiuri. As for the Bar jacket, Chiuri rendered it in lightened up constructions that created the shape with pockets rather than padding. While the en garde regalia went on a bit long, the clothes felt fresh and sent a clear message: Dior is not for event dressing only. One could see the lineup’s sportier range appealing to Jennifer Lawrence, who made her entrance looking real-person fabulous in moves forward in her new assignment, she leather jacket over jeans. must be mindful not to cross too much of Evening centered on delicate gowns that aesthetic over to Dior. featuring pictorial embroideries derived Chiuri seems up to the challenge. Already from Monsieur Dior’s fascination with tarot she has introduced a sportier, less-precious and the zodiac. It was breathtaking. It was vibe into the world of Dior. She views its also reminiscent of Valentino. To that point, advancement as both professional mandate Chiuri finds herself in an unusual place. The and personal journey, unsettled from her glorious, ethereal gowns that are now a Val- comfortable life in Rome. “If I don’t test entino hallmark were developed not by the myself now, then when?” Chiuri queried. house founder, but by Chiuri and her former “It is something to be living your dream, and co-creative director, Pierpaolo Piccioli, and try to realize your dream. It doesn’t care if are thus manifestations to some significant you’re a man or woman. You have to trust

degree of who she is as a designer. Yet as she yourself.” — Bridget Foley Giannoni Giovanni by Photographs OCTOBER 3, 2016 6

Haider Ackermann No one conjures a mood of heady antici- pation quite like Haider Ackermann, with his bass throb as penetrating as a heart- beat, his wind machines and his glacial show pacing. Heady anticipation, and then dramatic reward: Here was one of the designer’s most ravishing collections in years, capti- vating with its drifting silk, trailing ribbons and tropical colors. “Paradise birds on acid,” Ackermann declared backstage, where he was mobbed by models that resembled such creatures with their spiky hair and exotic finery, licked here and there with a metallic gleam. The designer opened this exceptional show with one of his tiny leather bomber jackets and a long and fluted yellow skirt, establishing a long and sinuous line, and an allure that’s always in the twilight zone. Tight pleats, like the ones Issey Miyake pioneered in the Eighties, are the surpris- ing trend of this European fashion season, and Ackermann’s were superb: Languid and a touch rakish for side-striped track pants; gorgeous in X-back gowns with plunging décolleté and a fishtail of flutter- ing silk. You’d be hard-pressed to find more beautiful dégradés, gentle pinks, yellows and blues dusted on silky, white pantsuits and kimonos. And Ackermann didn’t skimp on lean pants: tough and sexy in tight leather, or uber chic in tuxedo wools and teamed with brocade bustiers or lamé blouses. In a wink to his streetwise side, which helped earn him a new gig as artistic director of Berluti, Ackermann included sweatshirts and T-shirts bearing such logos as “Be Your Own Hero.” Tilda Swinton was in thrall of the “incredible lightness” of the display. “It’s like levitating, basically. He’s taken it all to that level. And the palette is supersonic,” she said, pausing before concluding: “That’s what we call élan.” — Miles Socha OCTOBER 3, 2016 7

Fall Collections Paris

Céline Valentino Photographs by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Photographs OCTOBER 3, 2016 8

past to embrace the future. This proved Céline the most difficult association to buy into, as In the words of a philosopher by the the designer wisely continued his course of name of Ferris Bueller, “Life moves pretty chic romanticism. He did make procedural fast. If you don’t stop and look around changes, shifting date and venue, from the once in a while, you could miss it.” Tuileries on Tuesday to the Hôtel Salo- With a big help from artist Dan Graham, mon de Rothschild on Sunday afternoon, Phoebe Philo made her spring Céline show a not-exactly-new venue; he and Chiuri a beautiful reflection on the power of the showed their couture there. The intimacy everyday, the nuance of human nature of its lovely salons proved double sided, on zinging by us at all times and the role one hand, imparting a sense of intimacy; on fashion plays in telling that story. The set the other, allowing only fleeting sightings of for her Céline show was one of Graham’s the fashion from some vantage points. pavilions, an S-shaped, two-way glass Those with limited views were cheated; structure — reflective and transparent — these clothes deserved to be seen. Piccioli positioned in the middle of an open space channeled his Renaissance preoccupation through which the models walked. The into a rich palette and silhouettes of vary- cast of personalities, each girl projecting ing degrees of drama, some infused with a individual style, came and went in all dash of Seventies — though not too much — directions with the graceful chaos of an perhaps in homage to Rhodes. Sometimes, exceptionally fashionable afternoon at Piccioli packed a lot into a dress, handling Grand Central station. it so gently it never jarred: a gentle trapeze “Social interaction, fantasy and life in of lace and pleated chiffon and velvet in general are the main driving forces in my blocks of color; a heart-and-dagger motif work,” said Philo in notes released after opening into bicolored released pleats. the show. “Dan Graham’s installation is With Chiuri (who turned out in support, therefore an interesting and powerful way as he did for her at Dior), Piccioli digressed for me to present my collection to the from the day-through-evening approach audience.” The show was an eye-opening of the house founder, to focus on evening display of complexity and perception, clothes. Here, Piccioli hinted at a broader partially due to the set, which offered those offering to come, with daywear that played seated in the right place literal self-reflec- seamlessly to the romance while staying tion, but mostly because of the clothes. real: colorful velvet jacquard pants (get Philo thoughtfully created ensembles that past how they sound; they worked), one made you consider the circumstances, with a trench-cum-cape and the other, decisions and surprises that drive a per- a smartly tricked-out sweater and intri- son’s daily existence. Traditional clothes cately decorated coats. With apologies to came in unusual proportions with an Nietzsche, not forgetting the past. Rather, emphasis on deconstruction, offbeat colors pushing it forward. — Bridget Foley and counterintuitive styling. For exam- ple, an oversize clinical white blazer and matching pants with casually rolled cuffs Balenciaga were worn over a rich floral printed top If Paris designers aren’t using instant and flowy pants that spilled out from under fashion, what else to titillate a ho-hum retail the white pants. A group of backward market? How about a dose of fetishism? shirtdresses — one white, one blue and one That’s what Demna Gvasalia served up a clashing combination of fluorescent green for his sophomore women’s collection for and magenta — looked like a men’s shirt on Balenciaga, encasing bodies in spandex or top with a drop-waist pleated skirt. latex and often topping things off with a There was no single dominant look to fridge-sized coat (even if the clothes were zero in on or easy way to describe the more commercial than steamy). pieces. Tailoring was mannish and over- The designer recently discovered in the size, but there were overtly womanly things archive a big camel coat founder Cristóbal too, specifically artfully sensual white Balenciaga had been making for himself. dresses. One style with raw edges and a It became the springboard for his strong corseted waist featured black crotchet that spring men’s wear debut, which juxtaposed looked like spider webs over each breast. doorframe and beanpole silhouettes. Two other white dresses had anatomical It was the same story on Sunday morn- abstract blue paint over the torso. There ing, as linebacker or shrunken shoulders were soft, draped and gathered jersey stalked tall, curtained corridors. In profile, dresses that billowed in the air and outer- the shoulders were pointy, as if the wearer wear that appeared torn apart and cutout. forgot to remove a wire hanger. Everything was elevated to Céline and You can perceive such clothes — done Philo’s standards of chic, but the mes- in occasionally garish colors and thrift- sage wasn’t about luxury life, but getting shop florals — as juvenile or the pinnacle through it. The styling lent a sense of the of cool, depending on your point of view. haphazard realness to the look. Some of Yet they are true to Gvasalia’s mission of the girls wore outrageous oversize frame making strong silhouettes the defining bags, or mismatched shoes that made you feature of his Balenciaga. The fetish theme wonder. If you passed someone on the isn’t completely alien to the house, for the street wearing one yellow boot and one founder was obsessed with the relationship brown one, would you think she was mak- between the body and the fabric covering Balenciaga ing an eccentric fashion statement? That it — although he was partial to silk organza she must’ve been in a hurry, distracted or and gazar. got dressed in the dark? Maybe she’s a little You couldn’t hide a matchstick in the crazy. Such is the beauty and flaw of the transition for Piccioli and the house of the masses, a parallel to the role of social high-heeled legging boots that had Kim human condition. — Jessica Iredale Valentino. Partnerships are distinct yet media today. Bosch fused worlds, too, not Kardashian in a lather after the show. amorphous entities; sometimes the whole only those of here-and-now (or there-and- Those pants and the tight polo shirts and is more than the sum of the parts. Though then) earthliness with paradise lost and peplum blouses open the house to the Valentino Piccioli need not redefine the house found in his Earthly Garden, but artistic tight and sexy crowd. Nietzsche. Fra Angelico. Gutenberg. aesthetic developed so astutely under his constructs of the Middle Ages and Renais- A closely watched talent, Gvasalia sent Hieronymus Bosch. Zandra Rhodes. and Chiuri’s watch — who’d want him to? sance; Rhodes (she of the ever-so-progres- ripples through the fashion world with the You might assume the list is someone’s — given his human condition, he must feel sive pink hair back when), whose punk pro- oversize shapes and streetwise edge of his well-rehearsed answer to “Which five peo- the need to prove his prowess as a solo cre- clivities represent for Piccioli the concept Vetements collection. At Balenciaga, he ple would you most want to have dinner ative director. In his on-my-own debut, he of individuality. His interest in her turned also put his weight behind the gargantuan with?” Then again, probably not, since this made the case exquisitely that Valentino’s into a collaboration: He commissioned her handbag. is a review of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s spring creative future is in good hands. to create prints based on Bosch’s garden. “I He reprised luxed-up versions of cheap collection for Valentino, his first effort as As for the not-dinner guests, during wanted to feel free to use all of these in my market carryalls, and introduced a round, solo creative director since the departure a preview, Piccioli referenced each. own very personal way, to connect to even puffy shape as big as a hassock that models of his long-time partner, Maria Grazia Fifteenth-century art informs his sense things I’m not connected to, to Zandra and struggled to carry. After mincing around Chiuri, for Dior. of beauty, particularly the work of Fra the Renaissance.” Whew! on legging boots, Kim and company could While Chiuri must define her Dior from Angelico. Gutenberg’s printing press As for Nietzsche, Piccioli invoked the perhaps use it to put their feet up. scratch, this is a moment of more oblique changed the world by bringing culture to philosopher’s jargon about forgetting the — Miles Socha OCTOBER 3, 2016 9

Comme des Garçons Fall Collections Paris

Comme des Garçons Yohji Yamamoto Geniuses are different. Some create could be. It also delivered a treatise on At the risk of blaspheming a high priest music that spans centuries. Some have clinical perfection, a triumph of shape, of the avant-garde, Yohji Yamamoto’s triangles named after them. Some become structure and puffery (as in stuffed, not spring collection was — dare it be said — baby billionaires. Some make stuff the shallow). One could hold seminars on kind of trendy. rest of us can only wonder at. Take Rei which is more curious: how Kawakubo con- That off-the-shoulder look that has Kawakubo. Her two-word backstage jures these sculptural wonders in her mind stormed the market, up and down? Get it brief on her spring Comme des Garçons or how she translates them from imaginings here, with black bandage tops of the artful collection was, “Invisible clothes.” Only to the stuff of the material world that can, Ace, not Hervé Léger, variety, as well as they didn’t look invisible at all. They were no matter how strange or cumbersome, be spare white cotton dresses, simply draped abundant and audacious; you’d never fail put on a girl and walked down a runway. like a sheet over one shoulder and deco- to notice a girl walking down the street She executed all to utter perfection, down rated with black paintlike splotches. Yohji Yamamoto dressed like that. to the most minute dressmaker detail; on The shirtdress, another commercial What you saw was broodingly majestic. the curtain get-up, the pattern matched at hero, came in white with rolled sleeves and Wanting something “operatic,” Kawakubo the back seam as if it were couture. large pockets tacked on and scattered on showed to the music of Henryk Górecki After the show, explanatory notes came the front and back. Versions of overalls and — beautiful, though hardly a joy ride. It via e-mail. “Invisible Clothes,” the title jumpsuits, currently enjoying a massive proved right for the moment, as this was a restated the backstage parlance. And then, revival, were represented in cut-up black sober, theatrical affair. The show had the “This is the purest and most extreme trousers and a boxy, utilitarian-sexy V-neck weird vibe of costume drama exploded into version of Comme des Garçons.” Oh! onesie. There was even a gentle dose of stunning head trip. Along the way, it refer- That’s what “invisible” means? That at its logo mania on a jacket stitched with the enced past collections (a giant flat T-shirt most extreme, Comme des Garçons isn’t Yohji Yamamoto signature logo on the back, recalled the groundbreaking 2-D collection) just about clothes, but something deeper? as well as on some nifty combat boots. while serving up an oddball cast of char- Genius! — Bridget Foley Still full of asymmetrical cuts, jackets acters: maniac Elizabethans; a scarlet Bo and shirts missing sleeves that seemed to Peep; a girl who became a curtain; another reappear at random on another garment, who lived in a tree trunk; Anna Cleveland the collection felt lighter, more simplified as a Grim Reaper in frills, each wearing her and less ponderous than Yamamoto can be. pilings and insanity with sheer serenity. We That’s not a slight. It felt good to take his should all be so at peace with ourselves. work at face value and feel that you “got”

It was fantastical, as out-there crazy as it. — Jessica Iredale Giannoni Giovanni by Photographs OCTOBER 3, 2016 10

Loewe Should fashion speed up further, or slow down a little bit? Jonathan Anderson, who has spoken frequently about limited attention spans in the digital age, advo- cated the latter with his spring show. He elaborated on the long, languid silhouettes he introduced for fall, here more organic and unfinished, but just as alluring. A video backdrop depicted blue barrels floating in the sea, and burly men swim- ming them ashore. All that splashing served to heighten the waterlogged drape of the scarf-point skirts, while trailing sleeves and coiling ruffles sometimes made one think of seaweed. The work by artist Magali Reus was a met- aphor for labor – “the job is never done,” Anderson mused – and for building a brand. Only two years in, Anderson is doing a fine job of that at Loewe, which just installed a product wiz of a chief executive officer, Pascale Lepoivre, who joined from Céline to keep the Spanish brand’s momentum going. A commitment to craft, with touches of modernism, is Anderson’s forte, and it was on display here in the ballooning calico dresses; the whip-stitched leather pieces with yarns left dangling; and the raw seams slithering down sinuous dresses. He described gold calla lily jewelry, jutting from wrists, ankles and ribcage of Julia Nobis, as a “bohemian abstraction.” Anderson’s handbags, under his J.W. Loewe Givenchy Anderson label and for Loewe, are among the most popular this season among show-goers, and he included one in every exit. The most striking ones bore carpet patterns, or a tight weave of glossy leather. He included iterations of existing bags, like the Hammock and Flamenco, because why throw the cash cow out with the bathwater? — Miles Socha Nina Ricci Guillaume Henry imagined a sunset Nina Ricci over Bogotá, Colombia, its many shades of purple, pink and blue coloring much of his spring collection for Nina Ricci, while a South American attitude came through in tropical prints and shine to capture the glow of skin under the heat. That’s where the Latin influence ended. Ricci is a devoutly Parisian house, and the aesthetic Henry has pursued is resolutely anchored in classic French chic — arch, bourgeois and a bit coquettish. Those remained the defining principles of the spring collection, which was mostly devoted to daywear. Henry played up purple in a major way, on a boxy, slouchy leather shirt, tailored backup venue when the first choice didn’t mandala prints in combinations of purple, satin pants with a matching belt and a Givenchy work out — (“It was karma,” said Tisci) red, yellow and orange. velvet suit. It’s not the easiest color, but Riccardo Tisci is not one to back away — the set had a haunting grandeur. The He pursued leaner, curvier silhouettes it added richness to the lineup. There from a big idea. His creative exploration of models walked on a mirrored runway set than he has recently. “I think women in this was a swagger, too. His mood board was themes including love and religion (spring in a square around the grounds, with the moment in society — not only in America tacked with photos of Freddie Mercury and 2016), as well as Egypt and the origins of show arranged as a staccato of many ideas. — have more power,” said Tisci. “I want to Mick Jagger clad in stripes, another major civilization (fall 2016), has yielded col- The universe seemed to have bestowed new make a more sensual woman who’s more motif that played out in black-and-white lections as heavy-hitting as their source creative energy on Tisci, as many of the conscious of her body.” Frills in fiery flower on blouses and a boxy dress for day and material. So was the case for spring, a looks felt quite new from him. and sky prints circled the hips and busts sequined dresses with a sporty influence spectacular fashion interpretation of The show opened with three of its sim- of lean, collared cocktail dresses. The wild for evening. Tank dresses came in purple no-less awesome subjects than nature and plest looks — slipdresses in blown-up geode kaleidoscope of color and pattern — rain- and black stripes, while a navy and bronze spirituality. prints in shades of pink, purple and orange, bow polka dots and stripes — hit a fever tank with tonal bronze-striped velvet flared “It’s all about mandala, the strength over sheer tank dresses — followed by a pitch midway, when Tisci began paring pants closed the show. of nature and the strength of spiritual- group of tailored black jackets with puffy down to something more elegant and At times, things felt a bit too reverential ity,” Tisci said backstage after the show, zippered utility pockets on the hips over elemental. There were serene scarf dresses of traditional French chic. For example a noting that his friends Lea T and Marina fluid bell-bottom pants, each model rocking in black with big, sparely placed mandala purple, A-line double-breasted jacket worn Abramovic often talk to him about zen, a necklace hung with an enormous slice of a motifs. The tailoring that had intermittently over a lavender turtleneck and white pants energy, rocks and the power of nature. “It’s geode. The contrast between the rich colors broken up the pattern throughout the seemed like a relic from another time. But a different way to see the world.” and organic shape of the mineral crystal show became more alluring. The collec- Henry culled from the sport world, too, This was not “spirituality,” the commer- and the relatively stark tailoring was fabu- tion closed with a trio of black suits with showing a racer-back tank in leopard print cial concept bought into by your well- lous. Tisci built it up from there, progress- convertible zipper details, decorated with eyelet and working the lacy slips he loves ness-loving friend with the word “Namaste” ing from tight solid jersey dresses cut with flat crystals embroidered into floral motifs with drawstrings. Infusing all of the Parisian hanging over her bed. Staged under the sensual portrait necklines in jewel tones to that reminded of stained glass. They were elements with subtle athletic details fresh- night sky in the botanical garden of Paris’ shirtdresses with exaggerated collar points modern, sexy, confident and they had good ened things up. — Jessica Iredale National Museum of Natural History, a in swirled color blocks and psychedelic energy. — J.I. OCTOBER 3, 2016 11

require a liberal definition of “wearable.” To that end, his spring collection was a crowd pleaser, a fantastic integration of Fall two aesthetics designed to satisfy concep- tual purists and those attracted to his more Collections relatable work. As stated in collection notes, “Wata- Paris nabe-san wanted to present an enhanced vision of street style. For him, neither extreme construction nor streetwear stand alone stylistically — they are complemen- tary, and when merged together, stron- ger.” He delivered on that position with a Off-White punk-driven look that owed a big debt to the edgy youth-music-art scene that’s inte- Off-White gral to the fabric of Berlin. After a recent Does today’s working girl have a uni- trip there, Watanabe enlisted two graffiti form? If the Eighties were all about power crews, 1UP and Berlin Kidz, to work on dressing, office dress codes have become prints and details in the collection. much more blurred in the 21st century. The first look out played like a David Virgil Abloh took staples like men’s shirts Bowie tribute, with a model in a choppy and pin-striped suits as the premise for orange wig and silver paint on her eye- his Off-White collection, which he titled brows, wearing a spiky, sheer batwing “Business Woman.” cape over a illustrated T-shirt, black “It’s inspired by my friends who are leather skirt that looked like it was sort of like the New Age girl — I wouldn’t fashioned from a jacket and shred- even say ‘woman,’” he explained back- ded black jeans with holes lined in stage. “You know, it’s like, they pay their fishnet. own bills, they dress the way they want to The constructed, geometric dress, they don’t necessarily need a guy pieces were sheer, in black, nude for approval, they don’t need their job for and a few floral prints, worn as a sense of worth. capes, aprons, shirts and dresses “It’s about doing a collection that and harnesses over printed embraces this empowered woman — her T-shirts; dresses and skirts made ability to not to be boxed in by what she’s out of patchwork T-shirts; grungy wearing,” Abloh added. but pretty floral dresses; studded He opened with variations on striped jeans, and army green cargo shirts, ranging from a ruffled elas- shorts. tic-waisted crop top to slim tunic styles As deliberately gritty and that were fitted around the chest. Then tough as the look was, the punk came tailored jackets with a twist — a stuff actually softened the scarlet blazer was paired with track pants, aggressive spikes and folds while another was made of two halves of of the geometric top layers, different colors and lengths. bringing them down from For after-work cocktails and client din- the lofty, purist concept ners, his boss ladies ramped up the luxe without copping out. factor with short dresses in black or purple From the street, there satin with opulent tiered ruffles. A purple were fabulous items — a satin one-shouldered jumpsuit, worn with denim jacket with leather a white leather belt bag, melded glamour sleeves, oversize army parkas, and ease. two trenches with graffiti art built Abloh noted that today’s working to withstand any kind of trend cycle. women don’t necessarily stick to a nine- Buy now, wear forever. — Jessica Iredale to-five schedule. For downtime, options included his trademark hoodies, flowing Junya Watanabe pants with colorful dip-dyed stripes and Elie Saab pin-striped jeans — the fruit of his ongoing The last days of disco have not come collaboration with Levi’s. to pass at Elie Saab, where swingy blingy The streetwear star, who is also Kanye clothes for women who live in the orbit West’s creative director, has made great of a mirrored ball were the only option strides since launching his first label for spring. The show’s title, “Standing on Pyrex Vision in 2012 with a handful of Stardust,” was literal — the runway was screen-printed flannel shirts. This sea- dusted in gold glitter, just like many of the son, his ideas are more coherent and the dresses, gowns and separates. In fact, the fabrications more polished. The brand is whole shebang was star spangled, as Saab launching handbags for spring and gaining stocked his runway with big faces — Karlie mainstream recognition, with even Céline Kloss, Gigi Hadid, Hailey Baldwin — and let Dion joining the ranks of its fans. no five-point embellishment go to waste. “Here is a conscious effort to be more There were colorful, graphic star prints concise,” he said of his latest effort. “I’m on taut minidresses with capes; black stars not at a point, self-critical-wise, where I embroidered on a sheer, tulle flared mini want to be, but I know what I don’t know.” worn over a bodysuit; silver lone stars on And that might be the greatest difference the collar of a blouse worn with a short, between Abloh and West, who attended pleated mini; sequined stars on a tuxedo the show for the first time this season with jacket and shorts; a relatively minimalist the Kardashian clan in tow. white star set into the bust of a black jump- West has a huge platform for his Yeezy suit, and so on. None of it was subtle, nor label, while Abloh has been forced to take was it meant to be. the humble route. Ironically, he is win- The Seventies-Eighties vibe was hard to ning what the rapper craves the most: the miss, especially on a shiny blue crisscross industry’s approval. — Joelle Diderich halter gown with a pleated skirt and a black satin leg-of-mutton-sleeve jacket over a gown with a star-embroidered bodice. Junya Watanabe When the theme is disco, a cheese-factor It’s been a while since Junya Watanabe is to be expected, but the clothes never let his street side out to play, the part of Elie Saab looked cheap and there were moments his aesthetic that makes collectors’ items of modern glamour. A lean black jump- out of patchwork jeans, perfecto jackets suit trimmed in sparkling strips of fringe and trenches. For the past few seasons, was over the top in a fresh, fabulous way. he’s pursued extreme construction with Saab’s clients are looking for the limelight, sculptural contraptions — hats, bibs, even if it’s for one night only. “dresses” that cocoon the bod in accordion He gave them a plenty of ways to shine.

shapes and helixes that are remarkable but — J.I. Giannoni and Dominique Maître Giovanni by Photographs OCTOBER 3, 2016 12

Ungaro Princess Stéphanie of Monaco was among the inspirations of a younger Fausto Puglisi, who channeled her outré glamor in his spring collection for Emanuel Ungaro. The designer seized on the Eight- ies, which have come roaring back in fashion, and he did not edit out the garish bits, clashing lime green with grape purple, and brocade fabrics with florals. Yet he captured the joie de vivre and racy spirit of the brand in his short, one-shoulder or bustier dresses, occasionally sprouting a huge sleeve, or a ridge of stiff ruffles. The finlike decorations detailed everything from outseamed, tight leather pants to the shoulders of ladylike bomber jackets in silk gazar. They also jutted up from shoulders to frame the face, recalling a Viktor & Rolf couture collection of yore. The prettiest looks were the sim- plest: a glossy off-the-shoulder top and a white wrap skirt, for example, or Andrew Gn a one-strap dress with a single ruffle Ungaro spilling from the hip. Those looks cap- tured Stéphanie’s regal-yet-rebellious allure. — Miles Socha Miyake Guests at the Issey Miyake show had plenty of time to admire the set: a series of abstract white shapes — think an ice floe as seen by Xavier Veilhan — that dotted a cavernous space at the back of the Accor- Hotels Arena. Andrew Gn Their jagged geometric forms were Andrew Gn collections are often history mirrored in the graphic patterns on the lessons in pretty disguise. For spring, he dresses that creative director Yoshiyuki drew on a brief period in French history, Miyamae sent out 50 minutes after the post-Revolution, pre-Empire, when the scheduled start time. To be fair, the “Incroyables and Merveilleuses” turned previous show had begun late, and to heads in the Paris streets with their fantas- Miyamae’s credit, the outfits were worth tical, rebellious fashion. It reminded him the wait. of the energy that spurred Eighties punk, Always on the hunt for new techniques, so he merged the two, finessing them with he introduced Cut & Stick, which does his signature ladyfied hand. exactly what it says: a stiff fabric was cut On his wildest days Gn is more Berg- into geometric shapes that were bonded dorf Goodman-eveningwear-salon than onto fluid jersey, helping to shape the proper punk. As he said, “I’m a silk and fabric. cashmere boy.” But the incroyable spirit Shardlike panels stood out on a series of pushed him to try something new: denim. sack dresses, while tone-on-tone mosaic A self-confessed denim virgin, he didn’t do patterns subtly enhanced trenchcoats in dungarees but dressed-up blues, opening bubblegum pink and mint green. When the show with a fitted, asymmetrical jean used as a smaller motif on a black jump- jacket with a nipped waist and raw edges suit, the technique gave the fabric a scaly over a bias mermaid jean skirt. It was one feel, while on a wrap shirt and matching of the lineup’s strongest, freshest looks, pants, it was used to create fetching blue- followed by a mini denim dress with a Miyake and-white stripes. high-collared bib and kimono sleeves Miyamae also updated the bouncy and a neat, cropped jacket with studded pleated dresses and heat-molded jackets — details worn with a midi kick skirt done in this time in sculptural concentric squares swirling panels. — that have become a mainstay of the He went on to show similar silhouettes Japanese label. in black and white eyelet that captured a He kept the innovation flowing with light, youthful sensuality — polished but geishalike, block-heeled shoes and an with a sly edge. The collection finished “electronic bag” developed with Sony’s on a more classic Gn note with classically Fashion Entertainment unit, featuring beautiful dresses and gowns done in seven changing patterns using electronic colorful 18th-century floral embroideries paper — the technology used in e-book and frilly kimono sleeves a plenty. It’s hard readers — that was hole punched and to argue with cashmere and silk but denim woven with leather tape. — Joelle Diderich suits Gn, too. — Jessica Iredale OCTOBER 3, 2016 13

Fall Collections Paris

Acne Studios It’s a season of minimal cutting and free-hanging fabric, and to an extreme degree at Acne Studios, where the usual crisp and minimal cool yielded to a granola-crunchy earthiness. Creative director Jonny Johans- son became enamored with gauzy, patterned scarves and pieced them into bohemian caftans, tunics and loose judo pants and jumpsuits. The predominance of paisleys occasionally made one think of Etro, a brand so closely asso- ciated with that pattern. But the Italian house would never Undercover cut such enveloping volumes for robe coats and bed jackets, the arms drowned in giant sleeves. The models, some bespectacled, had the Acne Studios look of geography students who crammed on too much caffeine, their lips gray and complexions ashen. Some wore oversize patchwork sweaters that were so ugly they were kinda cute — what the French call jolie laide. — Miles Socha Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood “Everything I know, I learned from women,” Andreas Kronthaler said in his show notes. The sentiment was appropri- ate for a designer who only last season emerged from the shadow of his wife, Vivienne Westwood, to put his name on what was formerly known as her Gold Label line. Andreas Kronthaler for Kronthaler was inspired by the doyenne Vivienne Westwood of punk and the other women in his life for his collection, which had a casually undone, beach-meets-boudoir vibe. Many of his cues came from the Mediterranean, as reflected in togalike dresses or a sun- bleached jacket with folkloric embroidery. The latter was part of a 20-piece unisex capsule collection that went on sale immediately after the show at the brand’s flagships in London, Milan and Los Ange- les, as well as its new Paris store on Rue Saint-Honoré and online. (for him). Fairly or unfairly, this classic formed a delicate pattern on a matching A not-so-subtle erotic streak ran through Westwood move, in the hands of a male Undercover dress, jacket, backpack, hat and socks. the display, as evidenced by the models’ designer, took on the air of a schoolboy Jun Takahashi is a fan of jazz — a very F-holes, the curlicued sound holes cut kissed-off red lipstick. A jumpsuit was prank. big fan, it turns out. His collection for into the front of string instruments, were zipped open in the front and back to In truth, the label has always provided Undercover was an ode to the musical a recurring motif, appearing in the red show off a gunmetal bikini, one of several plenty of fodder for anyone who thinks genre, both abstract and literal. From pat- stitching on the back of white jeans or as a swimwear looks designed by Eres creative fashion is just plain nuts. The British terns inspired by notes and instruments to decorative detail on sneakers and espa- director Yasmine Eslami, who worked for tabloids will no doubt have a field day with actual record covers, he mined the theme drilles. Tartan skater shorts and baggy the London-based label for a decade. the male models in the show, who were in parallel with an ironic spin on classic cargo pants hit a bum note. Subverting Westwood’s fascination decked out in a jumble of heels, miniskirts French chic. By the end of the display, Takahashi was with historical dress, Kronthaler inverted and headgear including a plastic bucket The designer subverted tropes such as flying the flag for his favorite musicians, pannier skirts so that their hoops engulfed filled with straw. pearl chains, here printed on a T-shirt, and turning the covers of classic albums — by the upper body. One bikini-clad model, Somewhere in there was a political mes- Sixties-style tweed jackets, with inside-out the likes of Miles Davis, Art Farmer or wearing a necklace and earrings strung sage. Kronthaler’s notes touched on the constructions that used piping and silk Sonny Rollins — into blown-up prints on with glittering phalluses, had her own fallout of Britain’s Brexit vote and François lining as surface elements. maxiskirts. party going on under a cagelike structure Boucher’s painting “The Rape of Europa,” A keyboard-stripe pattern appeared But his ultimate homage was reserved swathed in patchwork tarpaulin. which featured on the show invitation. But on a pajama-style trouser suit with gold for Bill Evans. The finale featured 10 mod- Graffiti of female and male genitalia as the strobe lights pulsed and a live band buttons, and on the belts of a couple els dressed as clones of the Fifties-era jazz appeared on a flesh-colored dress (for thrashed away, politics was the furthest of cute gavroche outfits feminized with pianist, who made it hip to be square with

her) and a long blue vest worn as a dress thing from anyone’s mind. — Joelle Diderich floral printed twinsets. Tiny musical notes his nerd glasses and clean-cut suits. — J.D. Giannoni and Giovanni Dominique Maître by Photographs OCTOBER 3, 2016 14

Mugler “So many hot girls!” exclaimed David Koma, wiping beads of sweat off his face as his models dis- Sandro robed backstage. Moments earlier, Gigi Hadid had closed his Mugler show in a racy midriff-baring eve- ning dress, capping off an aquat- ic-themed display of skintight scuba suits and sequined siren gowns. “This season, I really wanted to have fun,” said Koma, who explained that he was inspired by the anatomy of sharks. Mugler Chalayan “I find fascinating the danger and beauty associated with them.” The deep-blue runway was bathed in swimming-pool lighting effects that Veronique Leroy bounced off outfits glinting with surface Veronique Leroy’s spring collection shine. Koma spliced a finlike swoosh of sil- was so expertly styled, at times you could ver sequins on a cutaway swimsuit paired swear you were looking at an issue of with a zip-front silver sequined miniskirt. French Elle — circa early Eighties — spring “She’s the kind of a girl with an attitude — to life. sensual and athletic,” he said. There was a drop of Jerry Hall in the The designer cut clear PVC into a glossy lamé dance dresses, especially a silky red mac and mini skirt, and sculpted searing one with tall boots. All the models exuded white Neoprene leather into a graphic an icy aloofness in their yellow visorlike minidress with cutouts, zip details and sunglasses. exaggerated curved sleeves. While the clothes were occasionally too The stiff creations contrasted with his literally retro, Leroy usually added a cool trademark body-conscious looks, rife twist, carving acid-washed denim into with optical effects such as black sleek trenches, peplum jackets and an molded plastic accents on a sleeveless oversize bomber, for example. white bodysuit. At their best, the sleek Those are among the items the cool girls creations conferred a predatory swagger, will cherry pick, along with the silk blouses though in stylistic terms, Koma was tread- with big, droopy collars, and the white ing water. — Joelle Diderich shirts with snug ruching above the elbow. — M.S. Chalayan “I find it difficult to express my Sandro emotions. My accessories are helping me Evelyne Chétrite, Sandro’s founder and measure how much I can reveal.” artistic director, had her work cut out for That was the voiceover at Hussein her for spring. Feeding a relentless retail Chalayan as a model walked in a dark- cycle that demands weekly deliveries ened room with a projector embedded in required many groups in the collection: her foam belt. She wore sunglasses that Americana, gypsy, a karma moment, measure heart rate, breathing and brain riffs on men’s shirting, track suits. How activity, and the results were splashed on a to house so many themes in one lineup? wall in real time. By hyping up the femininity and whimsy After Google Glass, it’s come to this: a through ample embellishment, whether microphone on the bridge of your shades ruffles and floral prints on the gypsy styles, that can tell you when your breathing lace details on light blue and white stripe quickens because of fear of terrorism, shirts, star patches on a denim jacket and repressed emotions or nervousness. Veronique Leroy tracksuits paired with gold booties. Chalayan collaborated with Intel to cre- “It’s more feminine-masculine than mas- ate the glasses as a stress management tool culine-feminine,” said Chétrite. There was using the Intel Curie module that gathers a trend to suit every taste, most of them biometric data, used to infer stress. hitched to big ideas from the runways. And Intel is to display studies using the for those who don’t buy into trends, there glasses at London’s Design Museum in were plenty of cool, contemporary girl November for the exhibition “Fear and pieces — sundresses, denim, jackets — that Love: Reactions to a Complex World.” will refresh a spring wardrobe. The clothes were not as disquieting as This season also marked the launch of a the fashion-tech experiment: mostly clever full accessory line of handbags and shoes, plays on striped shirts, judo and army a category in which Sandro had dabbled jackets and cargo pants. before. There were relatively subdued Most were loose and billowing, cul- styles for both — a minimal black bucket minating with puffed-up nylon tops and bag, a suede, square-heeled boot — as well dresses. In a season of sleeve details, Cha- as pieces for girls who want to have fun, layan’s were slashed open and hung freely. like sandals with flames on them. They looked chic in satin, and shouldn’t Chétrite had all her bases covered. cause undue stress. — Miles Socha — Jessica Iredale OCTOBER 3, 2016 15

instant FASHION An in-depth look at what it takes to go from runway to retail in real time.

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ISSUE October 12 | CLOSE September 28 | MATERIALS October 3

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BUSINESS Stella McCartney Releases Environmental Audit ● The brand’s ceo touts bumper the environmental impact of synthetic adding that he hopes the publication of McCartney’s U.K. business and worldwide leather alternatives by swapping them with this first report would encourage other licensing revenue. They do not take into 2015 fiscal year, despite recycled and bio-based materials. brands to take a similar look at how their account wholesale sales or turnover from slowdown in U.K. growth. “So here we are, and this is the start of businesses impact the environment. the brand’s directly operated stores out- our journey, and as you can see we are The Environmental Profit and Loss side the U.K. Kering does not break out the BY SAMANTHA CONTI not perfect, but something is better than Account looks at six specific categories: full financial statements for its individual LONDON — Stella McCartney has pub- nothing. I’m hoping to share and encour- greenhouse gas emissions, air pollution, businesses. lished its first environmental profit and age the industry to join in and evaluate its water pollution, water consumption, waste Stella McCartney Ltd. has three directly loss account, which places a monetary environmental footprint for our future,” disposal and changes in ecosystem services operated stores in the U.K., two in London value on the impact of its sourcing, man- said McCartney, whose family is vegetarian associated with land use change. The most and one at Bicester Village, the luxury ufacturing and selling practices, as the and who has built her brand on a no-fur, highly concentrated area of environmental discount outlet center in Oxfordshire, company confirmed separately that 2015 skins or feathers platform. impact at Stella McCartney at the supply England. It also has partnerships with Adi- was its best financial year yet. “Fashion is an industry that makes a chain level, with the highest concentration das for a sports line, Bendon for lingerie, Although Stella McCartney has been significant impact on the planet. It’s not at the raw material stage. Stella McCart- Procter & Gamble for fragrance and Kering carrying out an environmental audit for just cool clothes and trends,” said McCart- ney’s own direct operations represent 10 for eyewear. the past three years, this is the first time ney, adding that she and her team want to percent of its environmental impact. In 2014, profits were up 22.7 percent it has published a Global Environmental challenge themselves — and the industry “Over the past three years we have while sales grew 11.2 percent. Lukoff said Profit and Loss Account, which quantifies — on a daily basis. “What can we do better? focused heavily on reducing our environ- the slowdown in sales and profit growth its annual contribution to damaging factors Can we be responsible and accountable for mental impact, we are not perfect, but in 2015 was reflective of a “very strong such as waste, water consumption and what we make and how we make it? Our we will continue this effort,” McCartney pound” and reduced tourist traffic to the greenhouse gas emissions that come from dream is to improve, but we have to start added. “In addition to researching new U.K. producing and selling fashion collections. somewhere in order to progress,” she said. ways to reduce impacts, we are also He added that 2015 was “by far our best The result is a “loss” of 5.5 million euros, Frederick Lukoff, the company’s chief beginning to move toward transitioning year, the best performance of the brand or $8.4 million, for the 2015 calendar year, executive officer, said the current report away from merely doing less bad, to doing since its launch [in 2001]. It was one of and the company said its goal is to reduce can “most accurately be described as measurable good. We have many exciting those years when everything went our that number as much as possible. an account of our ‘losses’ — since all projects in the pipeline and are looking way,” with growth across all regions and Over the past three years, the Stella businesses have negative impact on the forward to sharing them in the future.” product categories. “We were firing on all McCartney brand’s “negative” impact environment. We are striving to balance Separately, Stella McCartney has also cylinders. I will always fondly remember on the environment has actually grown our accounts. We are working toward released its 2015 financial figures for the 2015.” 7 percent as sales have increased in the projects and sources that would account U.K., which Lukoff said were not reflective Asked about the current year’s perfor- double digits at the designer’s 47 stores for profits while delivering real benefits for of the robust performance of the business mance, he said the first half was “very worldwide and grown across all channels the environment.” worldwide. healthy.” Later this year, Stella McCart- and markets. Stella McCartney’s 50-50 joint venture According to documents filed at Com- ney will launch a men’s collection with The company added that changes in partner Kering issues an Environmental panies House, the official register of U.K. an event in London in November, while its sourcing methods have meant that Profit and Loss Account annually for the businesses, profits in the 12 months to flagship stores are set to open on Rue over the past three years, it’s been able to whole group. Stella McCartney is the first Dec. 31, grew 12.2 percent to 4.9 million Saint-Honoré in Paris, at South Coast Plaza reduce by 35 percent the average environ- Kering brand to break out its numbers. pounds, or $7.5 million, on the back of in California and on Madison Avenue in mental impact, per kilo, of the materials Lukoff added that the annual audit is sales that were broadly flat against the New York. it uses. helping the company to manage better the previous year at 31.8 million pounds, or Worldwide, Stella McCartney has 47 Stella McCartney has already switched impact of its activities across all areas of $48.7 million. freestanding stores in cities including Lon- from virgin to regenerated cashmere — or the business. “We’re looking at the process All figures have been converted at aver- don, Paris, Milan, New York, Los Angeles, fibers that would normally be considered all the way from beginning to end — from age exchange rates for 2015. Tokyo, Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai, waste — and is looking into how to reduce the raw material to the final sale,” he said, Those numbers refer solely to Stella and more than 600 wholesale accounts. ■

in betting against the subprime mortgage consumer tastes, Barguirdjian said this ACCESSORIES market. curtailed demand is concentrated in the Prior to establishing Graff’s presence lower end of the stone market. Stones such in the U.S., Barguirdjian worked at the as Kashmir sapphires, Burmese rubies Former Graff U.S. French jewelry firm Chaumet as manag- and fancy blue diamonds continue to ing director. In addition to buying stones fetch unprecedented prices on the auction through Arcot Finance, Barguirdjian is circuit. looking at other fine jewelry investments. “Yes, there was a moment given the CEO Starts Fine Gem As reported by WWD.com, he is in talks uncertainty in the retail world where stone to purchase jewelry brand Marina B with [prices] were weaker, but if you focus potential partner Guy Bedarida, former on really rare stones, it’s a completely Investment Firm creative officer and half-owner of Bali- different market because some savvy based jewelry brand John Hardy. investors see those stones as a refuge for Barguirdjian said of Arcot Finance, investment.” ● Henri Barguirdjian and which will be based in New York: “The Particularly as global currencies con- whole idea is that the price of real tinue to waver, stones — along with other partner Philip Falcone will fine-quality gems continues to go up liquid investments like real estate and art buy fine gems as safe-haven through the years; they are a great oppor- — continue to prosper. investments. tunity on the market if you know what you “There is so much uncertainty every- are looking at.” where in the world at the moment so BY MISTY WHITE SIDELL The two partners plan to acquire stones people are looking for safe haven, and both at auction and through private chan- they have to be a little bit unconventional. NEW YORK — Graff’s longtime U.S. chief nels. “It’s a function of networking and [Stones] I think are a very clean way of executive officer Henri Barguirdjian left his seeing what’s available. A lot [of stones] investing money,” he said. post after 16 years last week to establish a Henri Barguirdjian are in private hands, you can make a great “If you look at the art market, it’s a bit fine gem investment firm, Arcot Finance. acquisition,” Barguirdjian said. similar; what’s really driving the market Barguirdjian, along with partner and The venture is a particularly interesting Stones will be bought and sold accord- are exceptional pieces. Those that are not controversial former hedge fund mag- mode of investment for Falcone, who is ing to individual circumstance — some with exceptional are stagnant or have even gone nate Philip Falcone, will scour the globe banned from the hedge fund community purchasing partners, some to be quickly down — so there are a lot of similarities, for incredibly rare stones to purchase as by the Securities and Exchange Commit- flipped, and others to be held as their mar- but the great difference between art and investments. While many private individual tee following a 2013 settlement in which ket value matures. precious stones is that precious stones collectors purchase stones as investments, he admitted to “wrongdoing.” Falcone — While the gem-mining industry has seen are a lot easier to transport — you can it is difficult to pinpoint a financial firm whose personal wealth was once valued at a sharp downturn in valuations due to transport millions of dollars in a very small

solely focused on buying stones for profit. more than $2 billion — had reaped success global economic uncertainty and changing box,” he said. ■ David X Prutting/BFA/REX/Shutterstock by Photograph LAST CHANCE TO REGISTER

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Diane Kruger and Fashion Scoops Emmanuelle Béart

daughter Benedetta went to Victoria’s Secret Angel Lais very beautiful, and it gave me the Star- greet Alba, and confessed to Ribeiro, who sat front row at idea to embroider monkeys, since feeling a little nervous about his the John Galliano show Sunday the duchess liked things that Crossed solo debut. “It’s going to be great,” evening, confirmed a news report were different,” de Givenchy relat- Valentino marked Pierpaolo Alba assured them. published here in September. ed at a lunch on Thursday hosted Piccioli’s debut as sole creative The actress and entrepreneur “We just shot at the Opera by Linda Pinto, brother of the late director with a star-studded front said she has signed on to do a the Victoria’s Secret new holiday interior decorator Alberto Pinto. row. Dakota Fanning, Shailene series called “Planet of the Apps” commercial, and we are coming That 1954 dress, now in the Woodley, Hailee Steinfeld, Miles for Apple with Gwyneth Paltrow, back here for the fashion show collection of the Baltimore Mu- Teller, Diane Kruger, Jessica Alba, Will.i.am and social media expert in November,” said the Brazilian seum of Art, is among looks the been getting a lot of attention.” site Ryan Reynolds and Samuel L. Lily Collins, Fan Bingbing and Gary Vaynerchuk. “It’s basically to beauty, who has just moved her retired couturier discovered in Other familiar faces at the Jackson. — MILES SOCHA Olga Kurylenko were among the highlight entrepreneurs that are son and mother to live with her in the process of his second career: show included Pauline Ducruet, guests at the Italian brand’s show doing businesses through apps New York. organizing exhibitions. Martin Solveig, Dolores Doll and in Paris on Sunday. — it’s like a mentorship funding Further down the front row, He has two more on the docket Inna Modja. — ALEX WYNNE Piccioli’s former design show,” she said. Olivia Culpo talked about her In the Shade this year, and three or four in 2017, partner, Maria Grazia Chiuri, also She declined to address upcoming movie role in David Emmanuelle Béart passed many of them devoted to the late almost incognito as she arrived attended alongside peers such rumors that her The Honest Co. Doucette and Ashe Morrison’s Audrey Hepburn, with whom de at the Elie Saab show Saturday as Alber Elbaz, Olivier Rousteing consumer products firm has upcoming “Tired Lungs,” which Women Givenchy is forever associated. afternoon hiding behind a pair and Christian Louboutin. Fanning explored an initial public offering she will start shooting in January. One scheduled for next Sep- of outsize John Lennon-style said she was working on the and talked to suitors including “I play a cancer patient,” said In Film tember will be devoted to Rachel sunglasses. “They’re Elie Saab. film adaptation of Sylvia Plath’s Unilever. “There’s so many rumors Culpo. “But at the moment, I’m “I haven’t been since Lambert “Bunny” Mellon at the He’s made sunglasses — they’re classic novel “The Bell Jar,” which — don’t believe everything that enjoying the time I have without Ghesquière, so I’m curious,” Balenciaga Museum in Getaria, great,” she said before the show, she is producing. you read or hear,” Alba said. having to prepare for it, because Julie Gayet said as she took her Spain. De Givenchy said the late which also featured several pairs “It’s still in the beginning stag- — JOELLE DIDERICH it’s going to take a lot of emotion.” seat at the Balenciaga show on society figure donated more than from the designer’s new eyewear es of casting and financing and Alice Peneaca also had a Sunday, the second by Demna 500 dresses, about 100 of which line, due to debut in January. all of that, but I hope that maybe secret to share. “There’s a secret Gvasalia, the second designer to will go on display. Béart is taking a break from in the spring it could start. I think The project at L’Oréal and you’re going succeed Nicolas Ghesquière (the Pinto organized the event acting at the moment. “I’m writing that it’s one of the greatest to see it this evening at the Gold first was Alexander Wang). ahead of the release of “Alberto a scenario for a movie,” she said, pieces of literature ever and a Obsession party,” said the model, The French actress has Pinto: Signature Interiors,” due Secret’s Out of her first. “I will direct it, next year. very important feminist novel, clad in a gold sequined dress segued into producing, and out Nov. 3 in France under the It’s official, the City of Light is It’s months and months of writing, and I think it’s important for girls, that left little to the imagination. “I the feature “Raw” is to release Flammarion imprint and later in to be the venue for November’s and rewriting, and self-doubt.” women and men, boys — every- have to run from the show direct- March 10 in the U.S. by Focus the month in the U.S. by Rizzoli. Victoria’s Secret fashion show. Diane Kruger, rocking a one — to see it in today’s world,” ly to the party,” she explained. “I’ve Films. It’s about a vegetarian The glossy book showcases minidress with black socks and she said. who undergoes a hazing ritual 11 homes and a wine estate, sky-high sandals, as well as Clo- Woodley is gearing up for the Valentino Garavani at a vet school, and develops including Linda Pinto’s sumptuous tilde Courau and Olivia Palermo premiere of “Big Little Lies” on and Jessica Alba a taste for meat. The Internet Left Bank apartment. were also among the front-row HBO in February. Directed by Movie Database calls it a horror Talk at the lunch turned, inev- guests. — A.W. Jean-Marc Vallée, the seven-part film; Gayet characterized it as a itably, to decorating, with guests series also stars Nicole Kidman, “coming of age” tale. particularly interested in boat Reese Witherspoon, Laura Dern She’s also editing “The Insult,” and plane projects. Just back and Zoë Kravitz. which takes place in Beirut. Monkey from the Monaco Boat Show, “I play a mother. I have a seven- “It’s about the situation in the Pinto raved about a 27-meter year-old son in kindergarten and Middle East,” she said, adjusting Business Wally — minuscule compared to it’s centralized around five very her miniscule Hermès watch, a What would possess a designer a billion-euro megayacht said to strong women. It’s just really birthday gift. to embroider monkeys on a dress? have attracted an order. beautiful to see a television se- Salma Hayek said she’s taking Hubert de Givenchy said because As for planes, she said the ries that revolves around women a slight pause after wrapping four he knew it would please his client, most unusual and complicated but isn’t definitive in trying to movies in various genres. They the Duchess of Windsor. amenity requested was a wok progress the feminist movement,” include the comedy “How to Be “At the Palais de Ro- in the kitchen. She clamped her the “Divergent” star said. a Latin Lover” and the action film han-Soubise there is a room that nose to indicate the problem: Piccioli’s wife Simona and “The Hitman’s Bodyguard” oppo- is entirely painted with monkeys, cooking smells. — M.S.

ACCESSORIES his resort 2017 and holiday 2016 campaigns for his ready-to-wear collection and Michael Michael Kors lines, respectively, both of Kors, Hudson Lend Hands them shot by Mario Testino. The resort campaign features Anja Rubik showcasing To Watch Hunger Stop the collection’s graphic prints and grommet hardware while lounging in a boat, all of it ● Kate Hudson has once trackers will retail for $145. embodying a nautical, escapist spirit. Special-edition watches have been a part “For Collection, it was all about the again been enlisted of the effort since its inception. Both the great escape and the idea of the ultimate to support the effort. 100 Series watches featuring the designer’s jet-set getaway,” Kors said. “We wanted to Runway watch case body, and the limit- evoke this feeling of island-hopping while BY LISA LOCKWOOD ed-edition Bradshaw 100, which also has a lounging on a vintage speedboat. I love that detailed map of the world on the face and Michael Kors [Anja] often looks a little undone but still Leading up to World Food Day on Oct. Kors’ signature engraved on the back, are and Kate Hudson glamorous and very sexy. She looks worldly, 16, Michael Kors has once again enlisted sold at Kors stores worldwide and online sophisticated and modern at once.” Kate Hudson to help Watch Hunger Stop, and retail for $295. The holiday ads for Michael Michael the brand’s campaign to fight global hunger. To mark World Food Day, Kors has cre- Kors feature Taylor Hill and Emmy Rappe A focal point of this year’s campaign will ated a special Watch Hunger Stop Snapchat at night against flickering lights in Nevada, be an activity tracker specially designed to geofilter that launched Saturday. A Watch right on par with the collection’s rich colors support the initiative. The piece will be sold Hunger Stop T-shirt, which will be given and textures. “[It] was all about a girls’ exclusively in select Michael Kors stores and away with no purchase necessary, will be night out and the power of pairs. We shot on MichaelKors.com. available at select Kors stores around the on the Las Vegas strip at night, and it was Now in its fourth year, Watch Hunger world during the weekend of Oct. 15 and an important place for us to be because Stop has enabled the United Nations World 16. If a customer wears it and shares it by it brought the spirit and the energy of the Food Programme to deliver more than 13 posting a selfie tagged with #WatchHunger- clothes and the campaign to life,” Kors said. million meals to children in need. For each Stop, Kors will donate 25 meals to WFP. The global campaigns launch today with activity tracker sold, 100 meals will be Customers can also make a donation to The limited-edition ads running in winter issues of Vogue, donated to WFP to support school meals. WFP at the register at select Kors stores activity tracker. Vanity Fair, Harper’s Bazaar, InStyle and The activity tracker has been designed during October, and $5 feeds a child in Marie Claire in the U.S., Europe and Asia, to highlight the cause, with a map of the school for a month. responsible for making sure the world’s reaching 37 countries total. world on its white mother-of-pearl face “Hunger is a complicated problem but children grow up healthy, happy, strong As for the “sneak-peek” pre-collection and “Watch Hunger Stop” embossed on the simple truth is that if we work together, and education and that all begins with strategy — that is, revealing collection the leather band. It will be powered by we can solve it,” said Kors. eradicating hunger.” imagery to the public closer to its launch the Michael Kors Access app, and will “I’m honored to continue my collab- On another front, Kors today — in addi- date in stores — Kors said it’s still too soon enable the wearer to set goals, track steps, oration with Michael on this important tion to revealing the full range of imagery to measure the success. “It’s an interesting distance and calories burned and monitor cause,” said Hudson, who has been for his resort 2017 collection as part of his exploration for us and we look forward to

Valentino photograph by Stéphane Feugère; Béart by François Goizé François Béart by Feugère; Stéphane by photograph Valentino sleep activity. Both the women’s and men’s recruited for her second year. “We are all new pre-collection strategy — also unveiled gauging our clients’ reactions,” he said. ■