HARBOR COURT PROTECTION FANTASY MARIA SHARAPOVA INVESTS IN LIGHTS SUN-CARE BRAND SUPERGOOP. PAGE 6 CHRISTIAN DIOR ISLE TOOK ITS COUTURE INSPIRED BY THE COLLECTION ISLAND OF CAPRI, ITALIAN ON THE ROAD FOR A BRAND GICAPRI IS SHOW OVERLOOKING RELAUNCHING IN THE U.S. HONG KONG HARBOR. PAGE MW1 PAGE 4

FOCUSING ON INNERWEAR Victoria’s Secret Trims Apparel Collections

By DAVID MOIN

LESLIE H. WEXNER, the chairman and chief execu- tive offi cer of L Brands Inc., is taking another sharp turn away from the apparel business. WWD has learned that Victoria’s Secret will be narrowing its apparel offering by dropping most of its THURSDAY, APRIL 10, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY wovens, outerwear, denim and some of the dress of- WWD fering as well. Hundreds of millions of dollars worth of revenues will be shed, with one apparel source estimating anywhere between $500 million and $750 million of volume. However, those apparel products that more direct- ly relate to Victoria’s Secret’s core offerings (primar- ily lounge and beach-related merchandise) will re- main on the menu. Victoria’s Secret’s core offerings Gant are intimate apparel, fragrances and cosmetics. In addition, the apparel cutback is expected to lead to layoffs, including possibly designers and sourcing staff. L Brands said it was too early to provide any fi g- ures on staff or volume reduction. Details are expected With to emerge at the company’s next earnings call in May when offi cials elaborate on the strategy. Changes to the Victoria’s Secret collection will begin being evident right away but most noticeably by next fall. The decision to cut back, revealed internally at L An Brands headquarters in Columbus, Ohio, on Tuesday, impacts Victoria’s Secret Direct. It does not affect the Victoria’s Secret stores, which stick to the core offerings. It also does not affect Pink, which targets college girls and focuses on sleepwear and lounge- Edge wear including sweats, hoodies, leggings, shorts, yoga, T-shirts, tank tops and tunics, as well as bras and panties. Last year, VS Stores generated $5.2 billion in Swedish-based Gant this fall will sales and VS Direct generated $1.5 billion in sales. launch Gant Rugger for women. While revenues will be lost, Victoria’s Secret could The capsule collection, which is make up the shortfall by redirecting its efforts. “We younger and more directional than know we’re most successful when we remain focused Gant, features 16 key pieces with SEE PAGE 8 a cool, downtown vibe. It will be distributed in Gant Rugger stores Yahoo Taps Bobbi Brown in the U.S. and internationally. For more, see page 5. In Fashion, Beauty Push

By JULIE NAUGHTON and ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

YAHOO WANTS a bigger piece of the fashion and beauty pie. The Web giant on Wednesday signed Bobbi Brown as editor in chief of its online beauty magazine, mark- ing another high-profi le hire in its push to create digi- tal magazines. It is understood more appointments in the sector will be made later this week, according to sources, who declined to provide details. One name being mooted as a possible recruit is Elle creative director Joe Zee, who would presum- ably help oversee Yahoo’s fashion channels. Zee did not return requests for comment, and a Yahoo Inc. spokeswoman declined comment. The appointments would be the latest in a string of similar hires over the last few weeks. Last month, the site hired former Page Six editor Paula Froelich to oversee its travel section and ex-Vulture editorial di- rector Josh Wolk to head up the entertainment vertical. Sarah McColl, former managing editor of Yahoo Food, was promoted to editor in chief of Yahoo Food. Other big names who have recently joined the company in- clude New York Times alums David Pogue, who now heads up Yahoo Tech, and Matt Bai, who serves as a na- tional political columnist for Yahoo News. Yahoo also added Katie Couric as global anchor earlier this year. The moves are all part of the strategy of Marissa Mayer, Yahoo’s president, director and chief execu- PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE tive offi cer, to get the company back on the growth

MODEL: READ/MUSE; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY KATSUMI MATSUO/ARTMIX BEAUTY MATSUO/ARTMIX KATSUMI MODEL: READ/MUSE; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 10, 2014 WWD.COM Louis Vuitton Drives LVMH’s Q1 Sales THE BRIEFING BOX line as positive factors. IN TODAY’S WWD By PAULINA SZMYDKE In the same period, selective retailing edged up 5 percent to 2.2 billion euros, or PARIS — LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis $3 billion, buoyed by “the ongoing devel- Vuitton said sales advanced 4 percent in opment of tourism in Asia,” most notably reported terms to 7.2 billion euros, or Macao and Hong Kong. Miroslava Duma dons $9.9 billion, in the first quarter ending The group’s wines and spirits busi- a spring Valentino March 31, versus 6.9 billion euros, or ness, meanwhile, declined 8 percent gown with a vintage $9.1 billion, in the year-ago period. to 888 million euros, or $1.2 billion, air. For more The growth in sales resulted from due to the destocking of cognac celebrity fashion, a strong performance of the con- by retailers in China, the luxury see WWD.com. glomerate’s fashion and leather goods maker explained. goods business, which rose 11 per- Dollar figures are converted cent to 2.6 billion euros, or $3.6 bil- from euros at average exchange lion, helped by Louis Vuitton. rates for the periods in question. “Louis Vuitton had an excellent LVMH observed continued start to the year,” the company said growth in the United States and Wednesday, pointing out its new ar- Asia, particularly Japan, while tistic director, Nicolas Ghesquière, Europe “demonstrated resilience and the strong performance of a in a still challenging economic en- M. BENETT/GETTY DAVE IMAGES range of looks from the Monogram A Louis Vuitton handbag. vironment,” the company said. PHOTO BY

David Jones Board Recommends Sale Offer Victoria’s Secret will be narrowing its apparel offering by premium on the price of David Jones shares on dropping most of its wovens, outerwear, denim and some of the By PATTY HUNTINGTON Jan. 30. dress offering as well. PAGE 1 Shareholders will have the opportunity to vote SYDNEY — Australian retailer David Jones said on the Woolworths proposal in late June. Yahoo’s signing of Bobbi Brown as editor in chief of its online Wednesday its board recommends a 4 Australian Citigroup analyst Craig Woolford said he esti- beauty magazine marked another high-profile hire in the Web dollar, or $3.73, per share takeover offer from South mated the Woolworths deal could achieve 50 mil- site’s push to create digital magazines. PAGE 1 African retail group Woolworths. That price values lion Australian dollars, or $47 million, in synergies. David Jones at 2.15 billion Australian dollars, or “Woolworths has a significant own-label range Christian Dior’s first haute couture show in Hong Kong drew about $2 billion. in both food and nonfood. The company also owns celebrities and VIPs from across the region. PAGE 4 “David Jones is an iconic brand with a long and 88 percent of [Australian fashion chain] Country justifiably proud history. This is a compelling pro- Road. We expect the most significant synergies are Swedish-based Gant will launch a women’s Gant Rugger posal which represents a significant premium to in sourcing, adding private label and improved PAGE 5 not only our intrinsic value but also to broker valu- merchandising. Woolworths South Africa — and capsule collection for fall. ations and to recent share prices. It represents a Country Road — also operate a strong loyalty pro- substantial earnings multiple,” said David Jones gram and have experience in financial services,” Vince’s new kids’ line, aimed at children ages four to 14, will PAGE 5 chairman Gordon Cairns. Woolford said. launch in June. Shares in David Jones Ltd. surged 22.5 percent “The key remaining question is whether this on Wednesday as investors digested the news. They proposal will result in other global department Lana del Rey will be at the Cannes Film Festival this year as the finished the day on the Sydney exchange at 3.91 stores taking a closer look at David Jones. The syn- star attraction at the amfAR Cinema Against AIDS gala. PAGE 7 Australian dollars, or $3.64. ergies for Woolworths are boosted by its Southern

The announcement blindsided the market, Hemisphere connection, but we could not rule out Louis Vuitton and actress Michelle Williams have reunited for following three months of speculation over the another bid,” Woolford said. a new campaign spotlighting the French leather goods maker’s fate of David Jones. Rival Australian department However, IG Markets analyst Evan Lucas be- key city bags. PAGE 8 store chain Myer made an unsolicited 3.2 billion lieves another deal is unlikely. Australian dollar ($3 billion) share swap merger “Looking at the share trading this morning, it GiCapri is the first brand to be put “In the Spotlight,” Men’s proposal for David Jones. That deal was made pub- would suggest the market thinks this deal is prob- Week’s new feature profiling up-and-comers. PAGE MW1 lic in January. Last month, David Jones announced ably fair value and you’re unlikely to see another it had appointed three investing banking and man- deal coming in over the top,” said Lucas. “If they Clare Vivier is translating her brand’s French-meets-Los agement consultants to assess the proposal. thought there was another deal, it would be 4.10 to Angeles aesthetic into a new men’s line. PAGE MW2 Woolworths’ 4 Australian dollars share-price 4.15 Australian dollars ($3.82 to 3.87), but the fact that it’s under suggests the market believes this the offer represents a 25.4 percent premium to David The Tents@Project is coming to New York for the July edition Jones’ closing price on April 8 and a 39.4 percent right deal and it’s fairly valued,” Lucas said. PAGE MW2 ’’ of the Project show, slated for July 20 to 22.

Storied Paris bespoke tailors Cifonelli, Camps de Luca and Margins, Investments Hurt Belk Net Smalto are in the throes of a revival. PAGE MW4 store fulfillment of digital orders, and we plan to ON WWD.COM By DAVID MOIN expand those efforts this year.” Belk cited activewear; women’s contemporary, BELK INC.’S sales last year were in the plus column, resort and bridge fashions; women’s suits; men’s CELEBRITY FASHION: Baroque was a big trend this week though big investments in technology and lower mar- better sportswear and clothing, and kids’ apparel as starlets appeared in dramatic dresses detailed in ornate, gins pushed net income down 15.9 percent. and shoes as the best-performing categories. artistic patterns. For more, see WWD.com. On Wednesday, the Charlotte, N.C.- based region- Online sales increased 42.5 percent, positively al department store chain reported that net income affecting comparable-store sales by 1.5 percent for for the fiscal year ended the period. Feb. 1 totaled $158.5 mil- Belk cited several in- FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA lion, compared to $188.4 Our earnings were vestments impacting the @ WWD.com/social million in the prior year. bottom line, among them Net sales for the 52 the launch of a new in- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS impacted by additional [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. weeks rose 2.1 percent to formation technology WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. $4.04 billion, versus net platform with a new mer- COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. sales of $3.96 billion in the expense associated with chandising system and the VOLUME 207, NO. 72. THURSDAY, APRIL 10, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and prior year. 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4 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 10, 2014

Models at the Christian Dior haute couture show in Hong Kong.

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ retail-news. Christian’’ Dior Hits Hong Kong

and socialites was Elizabeth von was former Miss Vietnam Mai By KATE WHITEHEAD Guttman. She said she was look- Phuong Thuy, looking glamor- ing forward to two things in Hong ous in Dior. As well as model- HONG KONG — Christian Dior’s Kong — shopping and dim sum. ing, she said she is active in first haute couture show in “I think I’ve been eating dim sum helping run the family busi- Hong Kong drew celebrities and since I arrived,” she said. “I’m nesses, a chain of restaurants VIPs from across the region to hoping to get up the Peak tomor- and pharmacies. see the spring 2014 collection. row and do some sightseeing.” The show at the West “We invited some of our cli- Hong Kong socialite Fanny Kowloon Heliport began dra- ents outside Paris to see matically when the the show in January, but wall that ran the length many couldn’t attend of the runway turned so we brought it here. Television, the Internet and transparent to reveal a Television, the Internet postcard view of Hong and magazines are magazines are great, but for Kong Island across the great, but for haute cou- harbor. The haute cou- ture you need to see the haute couture you need to ture collection was the pieces up close,” said same as that presented Sidney Toledano, Dior’s in January in Paris — a chief executive officer. see the pieces up close. very modern aesthetic, Guests flew in from — SIDNEY TOLEDANO, DIOR with strong silhouettes China, Singapore, in a palette of navy, Vietnam, Taiwan and black and ivory. Indonesia to attend the show. Sieh, wearing Dior, said she’d Dior’s whole haute couture Taiwanese actress Lun-mei seen the show in Paris. “Last team traveled to Hong Kong, Gwei was on a high from the re- month I opened a Chinese res- and manager Madame Rivière cent release of her movie “Black taurant in Central — Mott 32. will meet with clients over the Coal, Thin Ice.” “I had to come. I think we will go there after- next two days. They will be she left Paris, Rivière’s appoint- wear and women’s wear stores. I’m just here for the night, then wards to celebrate,” said Sieh. able to view the dresses and ment book was very full, testa- Alongside the opening is a new back to Taiwan. My new movie is Hong Kong fashion designer have fittings at the flagship ment to the strong market for concept to offer a window into out, and I’m looking forward to Tania Mohan said, “Things have Dior store in The Landmark in haute couture in the region. the world of Dior — a monthlong taking a rest,” said Gwei. been busy, I’m working hard on Central. Access to the VIP room “The Chinese customers like exhibition, “Le Petit Theatre,” Mixing with Zhang Ziyi, Carina my brand Tabla to bring it to an is through a special entrance the sophistication and exclusivity. to run through June. Lau, Pansy Ho, Simon and QiQi international audience.” ’’in the lobby of the neighboring The new couture designed by Raf Dior is seeing expansion Lam and other Asian celebrities Steaming up the front row Mandarin Hotel. Well before [Simons] is talking to them — they throughout the region. A new like the modernity he is bringing store will open in Melbourne in this new direction, they like at the end of the year. In the spirit and they like the DNA, Singapore, the Marina Bay store they want to know the story of the is being renovated and expand- company,” said Toledano. ed, with women’s wear taking While some luxury brands over the full current area and experienced a slowdown in the men’s wear moving to another last couple of years, Toledano floor. It is expected to reopen said Dior had not been impact- in a few months. The Kuala ed and 2013 was an improve- Lumpur store is being reno- ment on 2012, with double-digit vated, and flagships opened in growth and the same expected Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh last for this year. The clampdown on year. And in Hong Kong, a new gift-giving in China was thought men’s wear store will open in to be at the root of the slow- the basement of The Landmark, down. Toledano said as most below the flagship, in early 2015. customers were buying things The next big Dior event in for themselves, not gifts for oth- Asia will be the Dior Homme ers, Dior was not as impacted. show on April 18 overseen by ar- “The luxury market is still tistic director Kris Van Assche. growing, but at different levels While women’s wear still ac- for different brands. For Dior it counts for a larger slice of the is growing and I am confident in pie in China, Toledano said that the Chinese market — we con- the weight of men’s wear in the tinue investing, renovating and region was more important than extending,” Toledano said. in the rest of the world. On May 30, Dior will open a “This is part of our strategy GARETH JONES Sidney Toledano flagship in Chengdu. Designed investing in the brand, showing Lun-mei Gwei and Zhang Ziyi Carina Lau by architect Peter Marino, it the big shows to our clients,”

PHOTOS BY will feature side-by-side men’s Toledano said. WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 10, 2014 5 WWD.COM Gant Launching Rugger Women’s Line a group of New York City girls and how According to David Arbuthnot, chief exec- By LISA LOCKWOOD they mix casual American sportswear utive officer of Gant U.S., “It’s a great natural pieces with more contemporary and luxe progression” to our men’s Gant Rugger. Gant ON THE HEELS OF the success of its Gant garments, ending up with a very interest- Rugger for men is distributed in more than Rugger men’s line, Swedish-based Gant has ing look. We wanted to create the dream 400 locations — 150 department stores and turned its attention to women. wardrobe for this New York 150 specialty stores. At present, there are It will launch a women’s Gant City girl who’s just as comfort- seven Gant Rugger stores in the U.S., with Rugger capsule for fall. able in jeans, a T and worn-out the eighth opening at the end of the month Fifi Hallstensson, head Chucks [Chuck Taylor shoes] as in the La Brea section of Los Angeles. In of design at Gant Rugger, she is wearing a couture dress addition, there are five Gant Rugger stores said they are taking classic and killer heels. She’s dressy outside the U.S., with plans to open stores in American sportswear, tweak- but messy,” said Hallstensson. Japan and Hong Kong this year, he said. ing it and pushing the enve- And what exactly does this He noted that a lot of women shop in lope “to end up with some- girl wear to achieve this look? Gant Rugger stores with their husbands thing more modern.” The first For starters, gray jersey jac- and boyfriends, and the company saw an collection — which is younger quard drawstring pants with a opportunity. “It’s a little more artisanal. It and more directional than T-shirt and a wool plaid coat; var- complements the Gant Rugger men’s line, Gant — will feature 16 piec- Fifi Hallstensson sity jackets over a sweater and and it’s more tomboyish [than Gant]. It’s es. It will initially be distrib- button-up shirt; a shearling vest the hipster sister of the Gant women’s cus- uted in Gant Rugger stores in over a nautical blazer, and, on the tomer,” he added. He noted that a capsule the U.S., Stockholm, Paris, Copenhagen, more feminine side of the spectrum, a blue will launch for fall and a full-scale collec- London and Madrid, as well as at gant.com. cotton shirtdress featuring a wrapped waist. tion will be introduced for department and The collection, as the designer de- Retail prices will range from $125 for the specialty stores for spring. He declined to GEORGE CHINSEE scribes it, has a cool, downtown vibe. selvage madras button-down to $995 for the divulge first-year projections. A look from Gant “During my past years working as a shearling vest. The collection features outer- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Rugger’s women’s line. FROM MAYTE ALLENDE men’s wear designer, I’ve always admired wear, blazers, knits, pants and leather pieces. PHOTOS BY Intercos IPO Vince Unveiling Kids’ Collection in June THERE’S A YOUTHFUL spirit in the air at Vince. Said in Works The brand’s new kids’ line will be launched in June at stores such as Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, MILAN — While Intercos SpA Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom, as well as 25 would not comment on a local kids’ specialty retailers, select Vince locations and vince.com. published report that it is gear- The collection is licensed to Tawil Associates in New York, which ing up for an initial public offer- is Vince’s second licensing partner. Its first is with Brown Shoe ing in Milan before the end of for women’s and men’s footwear. the year, a luxury goods analyst “I think the key thing is our customer and wholesale partners who spoke on condition of ano- have really been asking for a line like Vince. We think there’s a nymity said the rumors are true. white space in the market for cool kids clothes,” said Jill Granoff, Established in 1972, Intercos is chief executive officer of Vince. The kids’ line is currently “sold controlled by its founder and out, which demonstrates the desire for this product offering,” she president Dario Ferrari and added. The line is produced in China and Peru, using many of the Eurazeo private equity firm, the same factories that Vince uses for its women’s line. which owns a 20 percent stake. The kids’ line is reflective of the brand’s relaxed yet sophis- Styles from the Vince kids’ line. With the Rothschild financial ticated approach to fashion. Signature styles include cashmere group as adviser, Ferrari is ex- sweaters, scuba leather jackets and jogger pants for girls, and pected to sell about one third waffle-knit hoodies and three-in-one jackets for boys. The col- Damavandi said she looks to build in-store shops “where we of his company, which he would lection is aimed at children ages 4 to 14. It features classic can with our partners.” The company plans to set up shops-in- still control. pieces in a palette of heather gray and coastal navy, highlighted shop within some of its own stores, such as Madison Avenue. Intercos sales projections for with colors such as fuchsia, purple, raspberry and blue and She said Vince will offer an exclusive grouping online for a 2014 are just shy of 400 million pops of winter white. few weeks before the launch. In collaboration with its whole- euros, or about $552.6 million “We punched-up the color a little bit to keep it bright and sale accounts, the Vince kids’ line will be marketed through at current exchange, according happy,” said Rebecca Damavandi, group president of global busi- co-op and online advertising, as well as digital and social to the company, which expects ness development at Vince. media, said Granoff. There will also be regional events and to hit turnover of 500 million Among the highlights in the girls’ lineup are dip-dye V-neck look-book mailings. euros, or $690.6 million, in 2016. and side-split crewneck sweaters with contrast stripe details and Internationally, the kids’ line will launch at Harrods next The Italian cosmetics supplier a fake fur vest as a luxe topper. For boys, there are button-down spring. Tawil will introduce an infant and layette collection next — which manufactures lipstick, shirts, classic denim jeans and bird’s-eye beanies and scarves. year, which will feature mostly separates and some boxed items, eye shadow, mascara, founda- For girls, retail prices range from $24 for a tank to $598 for a as well as a grouping for newborns including onesies and blankets. tion, powder, pencils, nail polish scuba leather jacket. For boys, prices start at $34 for a crew-neck Granoff declined to give first-year projections. and skin-care products — was T-shirt and go as high as $398 for fall and winter jackets. — L.L. prepping for a listing “five or six years ago,” said another Milan- based analyst. However, he said “the IPO did not materialize A sketch from the because there were problems Giuseppe Zanotti Turns 20 “Jewel” capsule concerning the value of the com- collection. pany. Also, at the time the mar- ber — it was a minimal style. No Jimmy ket was less interested in luxury By LAUREN MCCARTHY Choo, no [Christian] Louboutin. But I companies.” The analyst said started with stilettos that were superglam, that Intercos was “already an in- NEW YORK — Giuseppe Zanotti is turning superfeminine and sexy — and the busi- teresting company at the time,” 20 with a bang. ness was a flop. For the first two or three and now that it has expanded The Italian designer has created four seasons, it was a tragedy.” doesn’t exist. So the question is always, and grown in sales, “it could pull capsule collections, each celebrating a dis- Despite those initial struggles, Zanotti ‘What’s next?’” off ” a good market price. tinct characteristic of the brand and which chose to continue designing his own col- Like many designers, Zanotti is con- Intercos owns 13 plants will be released throughout the year. The lection rather than work for an already stantly looking to the future — even when worldwide, with five in Europe, capsules are being released as Zanotti is established house. “If they say, ‘I need it comes to celebrating the past. Originally, three in North America, one in benefiting from a significant new investor: a red pump,’ you cannot design a purple his team suggested a retrospective book South America and four in Asia, L Capital, the investment arm of LVMH sandal,” he explained. “I have a clear and to celebrate the two-decade milestone; and the firm employs more than Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which last straight view of what I want. The great Zanotti refused. “I’m not dying yet,” he 3,500 people internationally, December revealed plans to acquire a 30 designers have their own personality and said. “A retrospective book feels sad. I with more than 15 percent of its percent stake in Giuseppe Zanotti Design. they put their DNA in the product.” thought it was nice to show the cardinal workforce dedicated to cosmet- The first collection, “Jewel,” an all-gold However, in 20 years running his own point of my profession with this collection. ics innovation. The company has line of sandals inspired by past designs, brand, Zanotti has had to make a few com- Every sandal has a name, and every name significantly boosted its skin- will be released in June. Today, Bergdorf promises, including a divergence from his is a memory.” care business in recent years, Goodman will hold an in-store event where beloved stilettos. “I was not so happy to Following June’s release of the “Jewel” and is currently in the planning customers can prepurchase the collection, design sneakers,” he said. “But somebody collection, the “Rock ’n’ Roll,” “Black stages of a research and devel- with Zanotti making a personal appearance. needs to wear them, because you need Stilettos” and “Disco” collections will be opment center in South Korea Reflecting on 20 years, the designer to feel more young, more contemporary, available in September, November and focused on raw materials and recalled his first trip to New York City. “I more cool. So, why not? I put all my el- February 2015, respectively. “This is my packaging innovation, a catego- started in the Plaza Hotel, where I had a egant, formal, rock ’n’ roll, hip-hop and anniversary,” said Zanotti of the capsule ry it is keen to expand. room for FFANY,” he said. “At the time, punk into a pair of sexy sneakers. Women collections. “No fireworks. No party. No — CYNTHIA MARTENS [the market] was very black, formal, rub- and men love to touch new product that Champagne…but maybe some red wine.” 6 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 10, 2014 Sharapova Invests in Supergoop Joanne Crevoiserat To Join A&F as CFO By RACHEL BROWN

MARIA SHARAPOVA has become a co-owner of sun protec- By ARNOLD J. KARR tion brand Supergoop. The amount of the investment was not revealed, but a JOANNE CREVOISERAT, most recently spokeswoman for the six-year-old sun care company de- executive vice president of finance at scribed it as “significant.” On social media networks starting Kohl’s Corp., has been appointed executive within the next few weeks and in a broader fall campaign, vice president and chief financial officer Sharapova will help spread Supergoop’s message about the of Abercrombie & Fitch Co. critical role of sunscreen in combating skin cancer. When she joins the firm next month, “Tennis has brought me so many incredible partner- Crevoiserat will assume responsibility for ships, and I have had the experience of working merchandise planning and inventory man- in design with Nike and working with Tiffany and Items from Supergoop. agement from Leslee Herro, who will retire meeting with Frank Gehry. As I get a little older, I as executive vice president of those areas see partnerships in a bit of a different way. I look for and brand senses in September. Those du- partnerships where I see the potential for growth in use when I’m not playing. That’s something ties will move from corporate oversight to di- the years to come,” said Sharapova in Los Angeles, that’s become a base for my makeup.” visional management as A&F puts two teams where she was on a shoot for Supergoop. “I’ve been Taking sunscreen beyond the ways and together under divisional presidents, one for very lucky to make money to live [comfortably] both times it has traditionally been used is a its Abercrombie & Fitch and abercrombie today and the rest of my life, but to be associated concept that Thaggard believes is catching kids units and the other for Hollister. with something that I believe has huge potential in on. “In the fourth quarter of 2013, I think Jonathan Ramsden was promoted to the future and enables you to have a big say, it is re- [our sales] were four times [as big] as the chief operating officer of A&F in January ally easy for me to work with something like that.” same quarter in 2012. We have seen a lift and had continued to serve as cfo as the Supergoop chief executive officer and founder ZACH LIPP in those months that are not typically in company sought his successor. Crevoiserat Holly Thaggard underscored that Sharapova’s long- Maria Sharapova the high season for sunscreen,” she said. will report to Ramsden.

standing dedication to wearing sunscreen makes the PHOTOS BY Of Supergoop’s growth overall, Thaggard Crevoiserat has been with Kohl’s 26-year-old athlete an ideal proponent of the brand’s elaborated, “We’ve had triple-digit average since 2007 and served as executive vice products. “This is the first real opportunity that we have yearly growth for the last six years. We are on track to do the president of merchandise planning and seen that has been such an excellent fit,” she said. “Maria is same this year.” Supergoop has around 20 stockkeeping units allocation before assuming responsibili- young. She has an active, healthy lifestyle, and she reaches and is available at Sephora, Nordstrom, QVC and Giggle. ties in the finance area. Prior to that, she a broad demographic.” When Sharapova is not busy building brands — in addi- held positions with Wal-Mart Stores Inc. Sharapova said she sports sunscreen — Supergoop’s tion to her venture with Supergoop, she is trying to achieve and was the cfo of three divisions of May Everyday Face & Body Moisturizer, to be specific — when her ambition of turning premium candy line Sugarpova Department Stores — Filene’s, Foley’s she’s training or in tournaments, but she also doesn’t scrimp into a lifestyle brand — she’s been preparing for upcoming and Famous-Barr. May was acquired by on sunscreen when she’s not. “One of the most important tennis tournaments. Federated Department Stores Inc., later keys to this relationship and partnership is the [idea] that “I was injured the last part of last year. I missed five or six renamed Macy’s Inc., in 2005. you don’t only need sunscreen when you are outdoors and months. It’s always tough as an athlete to go through rehab Ramsden called the combination of fi- it is 100 degrees outside, but on the days where you are just and get back into the groove of things. It’s been a slow couple nance and planning roles “a perfect back- going to an office and you might only spend 10 minutes out- of months, but we have the French Open and Wimbledon com- ground for her to serve as A&F’s next cfo,” doors. Yo u still should be wearing sun protection,” she said. ing up, so there’s a lot to look forward to,” she said. “After a noting that the firm expects her “to make “One of the biggest products for us is the City Serum. That’s tough injury, it’s always nice to be healthy, and it gives you a a major contribution as we move forward a product that is not waterproof and that is something that I nice perspective when you are back on the court.” with our long-range strategic plan.” Joe’s Aiming Else Brand Elsewhere summer’s JOE’S JEANS INC. is adjusting distri- percent to $22.3 million when Hudson bution of its Else subbrand to life after revenues are excluded. Macy’s, and moving more of Hudson’s Retail sales rose 21.9 percent to $7.7 Must buy production to Mexico. million from $6.3 million as the addi- On a conference call Wednesday to tion of four stores to its fleet, which now M reaches discuss first-quarter financial results, numbers 34, and Hudson e-commerce the industry’s which surpassed expectations, Marc revenues helped offset a 4 percent de- Most influential Crossman, chief executive officer, cline in same-store sales. decision-Makers, told analysts that the company was Crossman said that the company’s Plus the world’s no longer shipping the Else brand to stores were able to compensate for Most stylish Men. Macy’s stores, their sole point of sale lower traffic to some degree with high- when it was conceived two years ago er conversion rates and average unit as a lower-priced alternative to Joe’s retail prices. in Print & online: 6/2 premium offerings. “Traffic in general has been down ad close: 4/18 Else is being tested with Dillard’s and 10 to 12 percent, in that range,” he said Von Maur stores in the on the call. “That’s not U.S. and soon will begin something that’s spe- shipping to an uniden- cific to us; that’s what tified Canadian chain we’re hearing from the and be sold through a malls and when we get European distributor. our traffic data.” “We continue to be- 34 He said the declines lieve that the brand NUMBER OF STORES in traffic were fairly has a place in the mar- IN JOE’S JEANS’ FLEET. uniform, with outlet ket, both domestically stores, which constitute and internationally,” the majority of Joe’s Crossman said. units, hit with declines similar to those However, in the first quarter, its sales of full-price stores. fell 98 percent from the prior year. At its He noted that Joe’s currently has peak, Else was carried in more than 300 no plans for additional stores in the Macy’s stores. U.S. and is focusing on its investments In the three months ended Feb. 28, in Hudson. “Right now, we’re cautious Joe’s registered a net loss of $2.2 mil- [about retail].…We’re not seeing a big lion, or 3 cents a diluted share, lower change in traffic patterns relative to than the $6.4 million, or 10 cents, loss rent rates.” incurred in the first quarter of 2013. Joe’s continues to work toward plac- Eliminating special charges, mostly ing more Hudson production in the associated with its September acquisi- Joe’s manufacturing facility in Mexico. tion of Hudson, it would have reported “Make no mistake,” the ceo said. net earnings per share of zero cents, “There’s a huge opportunity here to above the 4-cent loss expected, on av- dramatically reduce the cost per gar- erage, by analysts. ment on the Hudson side of the busi- Revenues rose 60.9 percent to $47.3 ness, and that remains something we’re million from $29.4 million. Eliminating fully committed to and more than excit- wwd.com/m AdVERTISING INQUIRIES: $18.3 million in revenues from Hudson, ed about because that’s where we’ll get Paul Jowdy, Vice President, Group Publisher sales were $29 million, 1.3 percent the real cost savings.” 212.630.2434 | paul [email protected] below the year-ago mark. Wholesale He said the shift in sourcing should — revenues were up 71.6 percent to $39.6 be evident by the third quarter. Photo: jason Kim million from $23.1 million, but down 3.3 — A.J.K. WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 10, 2014 7 WWD.COM

‘What would I want to wear on the device. In February, American David Letterman show?’” The Rag All Access kicked off with last scenario is specific pop-rock group We the Kings. FASHION SCOOPS to Hollywood types, but — SHARON EDELSON inspired a wearable black sheath with cutout OSCAR’S SHOE-IN: Oscar de RED HOT: Lana Del Rey will be at the chief executive officer François-Henri décolletage and leather la Renta has signed Daniel Cannes Film Festival this year. The Pinault said. “Talent shortages and accents called Camera Lawler in the new role of singer will be the star attraction at high employee turnover rates are key Ready. The dresses retail vice president of design, the amfAR Cinema Against AIDS challenges facing the market. Through from $149 to $198. footwear, for his company. gala that takes place every year in the Leading Talent Through Global “I think girly girls love As part of the firm’s plan Antibes, France, during the festival. Perspectives program, we aim to fashion and that’s why we to bolster the category, Del Rey has a prominent role coming get inspired to be involved Lawler will work closely up as the singer of the theme song for in these things,” she said. with de la Renta to “Maleficent,” the new Angelina Jolie and Hudson had to tone down establish the design Disney film that’s hitting theaters shortly some of her more risqué direction for footwear. after Cannes wraps up on May 25. ideas, but she still managed Before joining the At this year’s amfAR gala, its 21st, the to put her stamp on things. company, he worked at singer will be part of an all-American “I wanted to stretch Ann Balmain for three years, first musical lineup that will feature Robin HARPER DESIGN BUILD Taylor a bit. I might say, ‘Let’s A sketch from Oscar de la under Christophe Decarnin Thicke and up-and-coming rapper Aloe Blacc. do a low-slinging back all the Renta’s upcoming resort line. and then Olivier Rousteing. Sharon Stone, the AIDS research way to your tush,’ but the idea Prior to that, the London organization’s global fund-raising is to design for everyone. So I did things College of Fashion grad served as a RENDERING BY chairman, Harvey Weinstein, Kenneth Cole like raise hemlines and show some skin designer at Jimmy Choo for four years and Milla Jovovich will be joined by a few A rendering of Lisa Perry’s East Hampton storefront. while covering all the right parts.” under Sandra Choi and Tamara Mellon. His new event chairs, including Carla Bruni- Hudson will next appear in “Wish I résumé also includes a run at Christian Sarkozy, John Travolta, Kelly Preston and address these challenges by improving Was Here,” directed by Zach Braff, and is Dior in Paris under John Galliano. Abhishek Bachchan, the husband of actress the managerial skills, creativity and off to Morocco for the first time to shoot After Alexia Aubert exited the company Aishwarya Rai. Carine Roitfeld will reprise global vision of our employees, and “Rock the Kasbah” with Bill Murray. She more than a year ago, de la Renta and last year’s fashion show, this time ultimately deepen our pool of high- said she will likely pack a couple of her his design team handled footwear. consisting of all-red looks. — WWD STAFF quality talent.” LBDs in her bag. — MARCY MEDINA — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Down the road, the group said it GYM BUNNIES: Jeffrey Kalinsky packed the plans to extend the program to other HALE AND HEARTY: American Rag, which SIGNING ON: Paloma Faith, the British 69th Regiment Armory in Manhattan markets, including the U.S. is available exclusively at Macy’s, singer-songwriter who’s known for her Tuesday night for his 11th annual fund- — LAURE GUILBAULT said actress and singer Lucy Hale will glam, retro style and soulful sound, has raiser Jeffrey Fashion Cares. The main be the next artist to headline the signed with Next Model Management. attraction was the traditional fashion HAMPTONS MOVE: Lisa Perry is opening brand’s upcoming All Access campaign. Faith is no stranger to the fashion show, which featured looks carried by a boutique at 67 Main Street in East Launched in February, the All Access industry — she performed at Burberry the store as well as a number of hunky, Hampton, N.Y., next month, bringing her program offers fans direct access to Prorsum’s fall show in London in callipygian models in skimpy swimsuits playful aesthetic to a retail exclusive music, videos, February and is a regular in the front by the likes of Baja East. The label’s strip that includes Steven FOR MORE contests and private meet- row of such runway shows as Vivienne Scott Studenberg and John Targon, who took Alan, Intermix and RRL, as SCOOPS, SEE and-greets with popular Westwood, Max Mara and Armani Privé. in the show from the front row, were just well as Dylan’s Candy Bar. musicians. Hale’s All The flame-haired artist is also known two of the designers in the house; Prabal This being a Hamptons town, WWD.com. Access campaign for for wearing standout ensembles Gurung, Joseph Altuzarra and Tony Mellilo the merchandise will include American Rag will both on and off stage, often were among the others. Also inspecting beachy items including kick off on April 21 inspired by the Forties the runway looks from the front row towels, swimwear, cover-ups and beach with an Instagram contest and Fifties. was Dennis Basso, who’s lost count of the bags, as well as Perry’s apparel and and continue through June Faith released her number of Jeffrey Cares events he’s home collections (and a capsule of her with social activation and third album, “A Perfect attended over the years. favorite Manolo Blahnik summer shoes). marketing collateral Contradiction,” last month, The event benefits a number of There will also be an area dedicated featuring Hale modeling and its first single, “Can’t charitable organizations, including The to social e-commerce platform Fancy. American Rag. Rely on You,” features Hetrick-Martin Institute and ACRIA, com, with exclusive merchandise. This Hale, who stars in Pharrell Williams, who cowrote which as a group walked away with a marks Fancy.com’s first foray at retail “Pretty Little Liars,” won and produced the track. total of $669,811. (Perry’s son David is its head of business the Teen Choice Award for Faith Kates, Next’s The runway development and strategy). Summer TV Female Star last year. founder and owner, show was Perry designed the 1,800-square- Her debut album is called “Roads described Faith as a preceded by an foot space, and worked with architect Between.” There will be an in- “British fashionista with introduction Christine Harper of Harper Design Build store appearance at the Sherman remarkable creative by “Veep” to realize the project. The all-white Oaks, Calif., store on June 14. For talent; we adore her actress Anna interior of the permanent location will an Instagram Flyaway Contest musically and stylistically.” Chlumsky, a live be furnished with a mix of midcentury from April 21 through May 19, fans Next now represents auction and the pieces, including a sofa from Warren can “regram” the official contest Faith for all fashion ANDREW WOFFINDEN presentation by MORELANDLEXIE Platner for Steelcase and chairs by photo posted on April 21. Hale will Paloma and cosmetics related Steve Madden of Wendell Castle and Harry Bertoia. “hang w/” fans using the “Hang w/” Faith BY bookings worldwide.

the Community “East Hampton was the obvious app on their iPhone, iPad or Android PHOTO — NINA JONES Leadership Rob PHOTO BY choice since it is very close to my Award to Rob Smith house where I spend the summer,” Smith, the global Perry said. “It also helps that East chief merchant Hampton has great shopping and officer at Haddad Brands and a former foot traffic.” — MARC KARIMZADEH top merchant at Macy’s. “I’m having a great time and we’re HUDSON IN THE BLACK: Kate Hudson raising a ton of money,” he said. was the main attraction at a “Sometimes people get awards for really cocktail party Tuesday evening at For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. not much of a reason, but this one feels Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles authentic to me.” to celebrate the launch today of — ERIK MAZA AND DAVID MOIN her five-piece capsule collection of little black dresses at Ann Taylor. KERING ACADEMY: Kering has launched an She wore the Best Actress style, a Spaces executive program in collaboration with long, asymmetric jersey gown with Tsinghua University in Beijing and HEC a high slit. “Obviously the concept COMMERCIAL Business School in Paris was we’re doing an designed to respond to the LBD, so how do we REAL ESTATE FashionFlow Apparel ERP Systems MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED (ERP, MRP, PLM, AR, EDI, Mobile) Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- growing demand for talent do different ones for Cloud-Based All In One Solutions on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ Custom Setup & Integration Available stores. If you sell to fashion accessory in the Asian markets. The different occasions?” www.fashion-flow.com 212-244-4020 buyers, email: [email protected]. 18-month special program the actress said. “I provides education to just said, ‘Let’s do 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS managers identified as the different things Menswear Showrooms Full service shop to the trade. high-potential talents at I would wear them D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Kering and its brands to,’ so for me it was operating in China, like, ‘What would I including Gucci, Bottega want to wear out on Veneta, Balenciaga, Saint a late night partying Laurent, Boucheron, with my friends?’ [a Pomellato, Stella lace minidress called McCartney, Girard- the Late Nighter] or Perregaux and Puma. ‘What would I want “The Chinese market to wear that was sort has huge potential and Kate KOVAC/WIREIMAGE MICHAEL of flirty?’ [a short (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] is highly competitive,” Hudson fit-and-flare called

Kering chairman and PHOTO BY The Romantic] and 8 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 10, 2014 VS Cuts Back on Apparel MEMO PAD {Continued from page one} Fitch, Lane Bryant, Lerner’s and La Senza. He cat- on our core,” said Sharen Jester Turney, ceo of apulted Victoria’s Secret into a worldwide brand. Victoria’s Secret. “As we look to double the busi- As the apparel business started to drag indus- ness and continue our international growth, this try-wide, he spun off of all his sportswear chains alignment of apparel categories with the core at- to concentrate on the more lucrative lingerie and tributes of Victoria’s Secret and Pink will provide personal care businesses. Limited, Limited Too a cohesive brand experience for our customer in (which became Justice), Express, Structure, A&F, stores, online and through our catalogue.” Lane Bryant and Lerner, which became New York & Co., were sold. In 2007, just after vacating the apparel specialty retail- ing sector, Wexner said he was “delighted” with the change. “Brand loyalty to beauty and lin- gerie is very different than loy- alty to apparel,” Wexner said. “Because of that loyalty, we get trial and repeat [business] in a way that apparel does not get. It’s a very different pattern of Michelle Williams sporting Louis Vuitton’s new Lockit bag. purchasing behavior. Both categories have significantly MICHELLE longer product life cycles and ENCORE: Louis reduced markdowns, giving Vuitton and the business unusual charac- actress Michelle teristics and stability.…For Williams have substantial reasons, I am more reunited for a confident than I’ve ever felt — new campaign tactfully and strategically.” spotlighting The $10.8 billion L Brands the French currently includes Victoria’s leather goods Victoria’s Secret is reducing its woven, outerwear, denim and dress offerings. Secret, La Senza, Pink, Bath & maker’s key Body Works and Henri Bendel. city bags — As one source familiar with the company said, Wexner’s vision now is to double L Brands to $20 the Capucines, “Les already got rid of almost all the apparel. billion in sales in the next five to six years, concen- the Alma and Victoria’s Secret was the only piece hanging on.” trating on lingerie and personal care. a new version The irony is that Wexner became a billionaire “We are focusing more on categories adjacent of the Lockit. by building a retail empire founded on the apparel to bras, panties, swim and sport,” said one insider. In one business. Wexner began with $5,000 and a single While L Brand executives said the restructur- spot, the apparel store he opened called Limited in 1963. ing will enable the team to maximize the core cat- Golden Globe- First-year sales soared to $160,000. Later, he start- egories, the apparel source said once the Victoria’s winning ed Express, then Limited Too, Structure and Bath Secret apparel disappears, so could some shoppers. actress is & Body Works, and orchestrated a string of acqui- “They could lose customers who bought the jeans seen sitting sitions including Victoria’s Secret, Abercrombie & and jackets and also bought the bras and panties.” on a tower of several trunks clutching an Alma Epi A shot from the brand’s new spring ad featuring Brown Named Editor of Yahoo Beauty leather bag in the Alma bag. neon yellow, {Continued from page one} early June. It is expected to include videos, ad- one of the track and close the gap with the likes of Google vice and product recommendations — but Brown style’s 11 hues. Another shot features Williams toying with and Facebook. Mayer has long been fascinated is clear on one thing. “This is not going to be the the redesigned Lockit, whose calfskin leather gives it a with the fashion space, both professionally and Bobbi Brown Cosmetics channel,” she said. “I am much softer silhouette. The new style — which comes in personally, and last year stirred controversy when approaching this as a journalist. I’ve appeared on a range of pastel shades, including deep purple Quetsche she appeared in a photo shoot in Vogue at a diffi- ‘Good Morning America’ and the ‘Today’ show for and bright pinkish-red Framboise — is due to hit stores cult time when the company was struggling. the last 15 years and I’ve never taken the oppor- in July. The Vuitton spots, which are slated to break on “Our digital magazines are aligned with ver- tunity to just push my own brand. This will be a Sunday in the U.S., are building on the previous season’s ticals and our two biggest verticals are Yahoo brand-agnostic site.” youthful aesthetic. Sports and Yahoo Finance,” Mayer said during Brown also sees the new gig as an extension of Williams, who just finished filming “Suite Française,” the company’s fourth-quarter call on Jan. 28. “In her long-stated goal to empower and inspire other based on the award-winning novel by Irène Némirovsky, November, we launched a women. “Beauty isn’t about and is about to make her debut as Sally Bowles in a revival new Yahoo Finance, our in- looking perfect; it’s about cele- of “Cabaret” on Broadway, was shot by Peter Lindbergh. Hair dustry-leading business and brating your individuality,” she was by Sam McKnight and makeup by Stéphane Marais. Carine financial news product.… emphasized, noting that this Roitfeld styled the shoot. — PAULINA SZMYDKE We also launched two new belief is both at the core of her digital magazines, Yahoo brand and the central message WEBBY: THE OTHER AWARDS SHOW: Every magazine Food and Yahoo Tech. of all of the beauty books she’s publishing company crows about the number of ASME These new digital maga- written. “I already create a lot nominations its titles receive, so what about the Webbys? zines combine the things of content with social media, The awards for best in digital media, which will be held we love about magazines, but my interest in beauty isn’t May 19 at Cipriani Wall Street in New York, gave the their elegance and editori- just about cosmetics. That’s most nominations to Condé Nast Entertainment, with 14; al excellence, with the vast what excited me about this op- followed by Vice Media, with 11; The New York Times resources of the Internet, portunity. Beauty for me is life- with 10; Google, BBC and PBS with nine each; Funny or original and curated con- style, empowerment, what you Die with eight, and NPR with seven. tent, photos and videos eat — so many things.” In total, Condé Nast brought in a mix of 27 to create an immersive Brown noted that the fre- nominations and honorees across categories for a range beautiful experience. With quency of her posts is one of titles, while rivals Hearst reeled in eight for a variety Yahoo Food, we’re bring- piece which is still being of ESPN, Oprah Winfrey and Esquire shows. Wenner’s ing together recipes, food worked out, but that she’s ex- Rolling Stone nabbed three, and National Geographic trends and new techniques cited to use the media center grabbed five. through bite-size content, she built near her Montclair, But, then, who’s counting? — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD engaging videos and stun- N.J., home two years ago a lit- ning photos curated from tle more often. “They’ve given AT YOUR SERVICE: Beefing up her fashion staff at French

Flickr and across the Web. STEPHEN SULLIVAN me free reign to create a mod- Vogue, editor in chief Emmanuelle Alt has tapped stylist Yahoo! Food is being led by Bobbi Brown ern platform, and I’m very ex- Suzanne Koller as fashion director. Koller joins the Condé an all-star editorial team cited about teaching women Nast France title from Self Service magazine, and her first assembled from leading PHOTO BY and learning new things my- work is to appear in the August issue, Alt told WWD. culinary publications including Bon Appétit, self. Yahoo has more than 800 million users, and Koller fills a seat left vacant when Alt, French Vogue’s Martha Stewart Living and Gourmet. it’s a great opportunity to get smart, approachable longtime fashion director, moved to top of the masthead “Although it is still early, engagement numbers news out to a wide variety of women.” in 2011. speak to the reach and scale of the Yahoo network,” Maureen Case, global president of Bobbi “We are a small team. It’s a good fit, and I needed added Mayer. “For example, if Yahoo Food and Tech Brown and Jo Malone, called the collaboration “a someone close to me,” Alt said. “She’s really the right were print magazines, together they would be the win-win from a brand-awareness standpoint. We person. I really appreciate her work.” third-largest U.S. print magazine in circulation.” are now in 60 markets globally with the brand, Alt said she would also continue to style shoots alongside As for Brown, who will remain chief creative and the ability for people to see Bobbi in the Koller, one of the founders of Self Service in 1995, who officer of the cosmetics brand which bears her Yahoo context and then link back to us is a huge would “be full-time French Vogue very soon.” name, she expects her page to be launched in opportunity,” said Case. — MILES SOCHA MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS Chill Winter Move over Savile Row, a “Captain America: The Winter Soldier” group of storied bespoke tailors star Chris Evans can do little to in Paris are in the throes of a shield himself from some tough revival. Page MW4 love. Page MW2

April 10, 2014

Fantasy Island

The idyllic isle of Capri is just off the coast of Naples, the center of Neapolitan tailoring, and it’s where the GiCapri label got its start in the Fifties. The brand has been reintroduced and reinvented for today’s man. For more on GiCapri, see Men’s Week’s new feature “In the Spotlight” on page MW2. MORELAND LEXIE BY PHOTO MW2 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 10, 2014 Men’s Week Brooks Brothers Teams With Supreme New York

SUPREME NEW YORK has collaborated tured in Brooks Bros.’ factory. with Brooks Brothers on a seersucker Although Brooks has collaborated in the blazer and matching trousers for spring. past with designers such as Junya Watanabe The silhouette is the company’s slimmer and has a long-standing successful partner- and younger-skewed Fitzgerald model ship with Thom Browne for its Black Fleece and the lining of the jacket will feature a label, Hoffs said the retailer approaches black-and-white star pattern. The suit will such associations cautiously. “Traditionally, be sold exclusively at Supreme, a trendset- we wouldn’t have thought of Supreme,” ting streetwear and skate retailer; it will he said. “But they wanted to test how not be sold at Brooks Bros. suits would sell for them and what Brooks “Supreme was looking for something Brothers meant for their market.” The suit that was iconic to Brooks Brothers and is expected to be offered for sale next week. they thought that their customers were so- The retail price was not disclosed. phisticated enough for a nice suit,” Glen Supreme is no stranger to collabora- Hoffs, Brooks Bros.’ fashion director, told tions: In the past, the downtown-based com- WWD. “We thought that it was perfect be- pany has worked with Nike, North Face, cause the fabric is so loved — it was intro- Comme des Garçons, Champion and Vans, duced in the 1920s by Brooks Brothers.” among others. This won’t be the downtown The collaboration began about six streetwear brand’s first foray into suits. In months ago when Supreme approached 2011, the company partnered with New Brooks Bros., Hoffs said. The two com- York-based designer Adam Kimmel on an panies went back and forth with various unlined black and navy two-button suit details and patterns before agreeing on jacket and a custom fit pant, made from the final product, which was manufac- Italian cotton twill. — DAVID YI Project to Bring The Tents to N.Y.

by JEAN E. PALMIERI been a successful part of the Las Vegas edition of the show since its introduction NAME: GiCapri pieces including shirts, pants, neckwear THE TENTS@PROJECT is coming to three seasons ago, will be adjacent to the HISTORY: Neopolitan master tailor Vincenzo and accessories. New York. regular Project show in New York and Sicignano created what is believed to be PRICE POINTS: $1,095 to $1,495 for a jacket The trade show operator will add its will sport a similar design aesthetic as the the first unconstructed tailored sport coat and $1,250 to $1,750 for suits. elevated offering of men’s designer and West Coast counterpart. “It’ll have a simi- in the Fifties. The Giacchett e Capri was DISTRIBUTION: Neiman Marcus, Stanley luxury brands to the July edition of its lar look and feel and will be light, bright lightweight, never wrinkled Korshak, Butch Blum, show, slated for July 20 to 22. In addition, and airy,” Fazio said. Among the brands and was designed to be tied In the Beecroft & Bull and other Project will switch its location and join that have shown at The Tents in Vegas around the waist, shaken U.S. retailers have signed on MRket and Agenda at the Jacob K. Javits are Todd Snyder, Tiger of Sweden, Stone out and slipped on for SPOTLIGHT to carry the collection for its Convention Center this summer. For the Island and Shipley & Halmos. evenings on the idyllic isle of American launch for fall. past three seasons, the show has been Fazio said the response from potential Capri. Sicignano’s grandson COMPETITION: Kiton, held at Piers 92 or 94. exhibitors has been strong. “They don’t Pasquale discovered the pattern in an attic Brioni, Isaia, Ermenegildo Zegna and “It’s all about making it more fluid really think there’s a venue for elevated five years ago and decided to reintroduce it. Boglioli but “in a prize zone a little under,” for the retailer,” said Project president brands,” he said. NICHE: GiCapri blazers and outerwear use according to Jon McKinney, president of Tommy Fazio, adding that “there are bet- That opened the recurring topic of no filler or fusing, no shoulder pads or chest North America. ter facilities and services at the Javits.” the creation of a separate Men’s Fashion pieces and are still created from the original MRket will run from July 20 to 22, while Week in New York that would potentially sweater pattern. Editor’s Note: This marks the launch of a new Agenda and Capsule will run July 21 and 22. be timed to coincide with the trade shows. KEY ITEMS: Sport coats, suits, outerwear Men’s Week feature looking at up-and-coming Capsule will continue to show at Basketball Fazio deferred to the Council of Fashion and other complementary men’s wear brands, retailers, products and more. City. Liberty Fairs will be held from July 21 Designers of America, saying chief execu- to 23, but has not yet revealed a site. tive officer Steven Kolb is “in big talks to As reported, Liberty, MRket, Capsule make it happen.” and Agenda have partnered together Kolb in turn responded: “The idea is Man of under the mantle of Modern Assembly. still very much alive. If and when and Fazio said that while Project is not col- what season depends on our ability to THE WEEK CHRIS EVANS: C+ laborating with the other shows, the reloca- attract a corporate partner. The interest tion is designed to make it easier for mer- from the industry and the structure is in chants in town to shop the different venues. place. We just need the funding, which we The traditional hairstyle The beard hides his Fazio also said The Tents, which has continue to explore.” makes his forehead handsome features. appear too pronounced. A five-o’clock We prefer a close-cropped shadow would suit or spiky look. him better. Clare Vivier Launching Men’s Wear CLARE VIVIER is expanding her line of pers, which we haven’t yet done for women.” The totally unconstructed The light gray women’s accessories and translating its Vivier, whose fold-over women’s clutch- suit jacket seems too small for plays well with the French-meets-Los Angeles aesthetic into a es have found fans in actresses such as him. A strong shoulder would color palette of the new men’s line. The new additions — which Rashida Jones, Amy Poehler and Kristen balance his big deltoids and be ensemble. include items ranging from dopp kits ($65 Wiig, started her brand while traveling with more empowering. to $110), wallets ($159) and her French journalist hus- The solid black tie document holders ($156) band around the world. “I Why is this so wrinkled? feels a little flat. A to passport holders ($97) couldn’t find a cute laptop Is it a linen blend, or has he bit of texture would and totes ($478) — will case anywhere,” she said. been pumping iron with the work better. be sold on her Web site “I had to make my own.” suit on? It’s too early in the as well as at Bird retail Without training, season for linen. stores in New York. she took her “no-fuss” The line, Vivier said, is mantra and expanded The slim-cut pants a natural extension for her A Clare the business to now in- fit him well. business. After launch- clude totes, travel bags The star of “Captain Vivier ing in 2008 and setting up wallet. and clutches. The latter America: The Winter retail stores in Silverlake, — with a foldable pouch Calif., and on Elizabeth — became her signature Soldier” is going for a The shiny black Street in New York, the designer said men and is carried in retailers including Saks shoes add a began asking her to create a line that was Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf more down-to-earth, touch of evening, a little more masculine. “It was actually Goodman and Anthropologie, among others. sensitive-guy look. But but a higher heel my husband who really asked me for it that As for her men’s line, she’s confident would help push made me go, OK, now is the time,” she said. she knows what men want. the ill-fitting blazer him above his The collection will use the same materi- “I grew up with four brothers, so I really 6-foot stature als as the women’s line, including canvas, get what men want and what they look for,” and the math teacher and more into leather and nylon, “but will be more mas- said Vivier, who grew up in Minnesota. “It’s

superhero STEVE EICHNER culine, of course,” Vivier said. “Each of our all about being easy, without anything com- grooming makes us miss territory. bags or totes has a medallion. For men’s, we plicated but with great quality.” got rid of that and will use more masculine Vivier hopes to expand into shoes and

his superhero sex appeal. PHOTO BY hardware like muted brass and silver zip- a cut-and-sewn line soon. — D.Y. PHOTOS BY LEXIE MORELAND vortex While springcontinued to tuxedos andedgy separates. slim tailored suits paired withprinted shirts, men from attending various evening events Party Central Men’s Week andtorrential rains, WWD.com/eye. FOR MOREPHOTOS,SEE stagnate between thepolar that didn’tstop

— MERCEDES PSL wearing Manhattan BASS textured THEY AREWEARING ® WWD

THURSDAY, APRIL10, 2014 MW3 MW4 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 10, 2014 Men’s Week Paris Tailors Vie for Bespoke Business

by PAULINA SZMYDKE “This is the only way we can grow,” “We are also eyeing Africa,” said Le Smith reckons the reason France is not Lorenzo Cifonelli told WWD. “There comes Guénic, projecting a bump of “at least 15 per- known as a tailoring country is that it is PARIS — Step aside, Savile Row: A cache a point where you can’t do more bespoke cent” in sales over the next few years on the overshadowed by women’s wear. “But the ac- of storied bespoke tailors in Paris are in the suits without compromising quality. But our continent, which provides 25 percent of the tual handwork is far superior to the Italians, throes of a revival. objective is not to be a global brand, we don’t house’s bespoke clientele. “In 10 or 15 years far superior to the English; the French put a Cifonelli, Camps de Luca and Smalto are have the money of LVMH [Moët Hennessy from now, Africa will be a major market.” lot of effort into the detail,” he asserted. ready to make the leap from exclusive gen- Louis Vuitton]. The idea is to propose a new In addition to bespoke, Smalto already Smith confessed he can’t warm up to tlemen’s club to more visible players on the look, while staying true to our roots.” offers a full rtw collection designed by Youn English tailoring, because “it’s too stiff and global fashion scene. The rtw will be produced in Italy, where Chong Bak, who trained with Smalto, as well looks quite crude,” while Italian is “too sup- Emboldened by consistent double-digit Lorenzo’s great-grandfather first set up a as a “demi-mésure” collection, which pro- ple, too flimsy.” “I like to feel I’ve got a jacket growth in recent years, these bespoke play- workshop in 1880. Cifonelli says he had of- poses ready-made pieces that are adjusted on when I wear it,” he said. ers are plotting new boutique openings and fers from big luxury groups but he prefers to individually on every client. Smith fuses military with street- and ready-to-wear launches, as well as the big stay independent. “I don’t want anyone dic- Smalto made his name by suiting up office-friendly cuts, adding his own touches, leap across the Atlantic. tating what to do with my own brand. It’s bet- French actor Jean-Paul Belmondo for his including pocket flaps integrated in the pat- They point to Berluti’s acquisition in 2012 ter to be small in your own home than make famous movie stunts; Alain Delon; Sean tern for a seamless look. His label aims to of elite Left Bank atelier Arnys, and the ar- it big in someone else’s,” he reasoned. Connery; Roger Moore, and, most recently, “show what’s possible” with traditional tai- rival of new players such as Tailored by Mr. The new rtw range, which will include ac- Jean Dujardin and Tim Roth have succumbed loring methods and to bring more diversity Smith, as additional indicators of a second cessories, will be stocked in two new Cifonelli to the tailor’s charms and his distinctive “Paris into today’s men’s wear offering. wind for the rare enterprise. shops — one on Rue Marbeuf, where the ate- notch,” which is cut with a set square. In fact, Though not strictly made-to-measure, “There has been a noticeable change of at- lier is based, the other on Rue Saint-Honoré. the company’s archives house costumes from Smith’s line is produced entirely by hand. Only titude among men,” said Julien de Luca, scion Despite its 134-year history, the house’s more than 120 movie collaborations, with pic- three to four pieces of each design go into pro- of Camps de Luca, one of Paris’ most coveted bespoke is contemporary: Don’t be surprised tures of celebrities planted all over the brand’s duction, for a total of 18 pieces a season, which addresses for bespoke tailoring. “Men come to spot a bespoke pair of sporty cargo pants headquarters in the ritzy 16th arrondissement. are exclusively stocked at Tomorrowland in to us with a solid knowledge of bespoke, and or a traveler jacket next to the traditional De Luca has observed “a very strong shift Japan, with United Arrows to follow next sea- they want to find out more about how it’s done two-piece suit or tuxedo. The worst thing is in age. For a while we had a double whammy son. The fabrics are 90 percent Japanese, along and what goes into it. They take the pleasure “to be boring,” said Cifonelli. “We always try of aging clients and aging workers with no with some English. Wholesale prices range in being elegant and well fitted.” French tailoring is distinctive: a mélange of the rigid structure of the English and the suppleness of the Italians, formed by the manual skills of Polish, Lebanese and Tunisian immigrants who settled in Paris, drawn by the city’s rich couture culture. Camps de Luca’s own history, an Italo- Spanish fusion, is a case in point. “My grand- father [Mario de Luca] came from a small village near Montecasino in Italy, his uncle was a tailor,” related de Luca, sitting in the MAÎTRE sun-drenched study of the tailoring atelier his grandfather opened in 1969 on Paris’

Marc and DOMINIQUE Place de la Madeleine with Joseph Camps, a Vincent Julien BY Lorenzo and master tailor from Catalonia, where some of Smith de Luca Massimo Cifonelli Europe’s finest tailors come from. Now 34, de Luca noted his grandfather ad- PHOTOS vised him to learn something other than tai- to introduce something new.” one to follow. In the Eighties the average age from 500 euros, or $689, for a pair of chinos to loring, seeing the impact rtw had on his craft. A case in point is its Sinclair jacket craft- of our clients was 60, probably the same as 1,200 euros, or $1,654, for a woolen coat. So he went to London to become a stockbro- ed from ultrasoft Japanese jersey. “ Yo u see, in the atelier. Now it’s 35 — for both.” He employs three master tailors, now aged ker — until his father called him back. it’s almost like a pullover,” Cifonelli said. According to the Fédération Nationale between 65 and 74, whom he brought back The service at Camps de Luca is intensive, The figure-hugging Cifonelli cut is des Maîtres-Tailleurs, the French master tai- from retirement and who are now training and the family prides itself on knowing its cus- unique: a roped shoulder, a subtly curved lors’ governing body, the total number of tai- a younger staff. If he didn’t have the seniors, tomers inside out. The young tailor excuses chest and an extra-high armhole. Karl lors in France stood at 10,000 in the Fifties Smith said, his company would die. What himself several times during the interview to Lagerfeld, a onetime client, has observed, “I and Sixties. “Every street in Paris had keeps the business afloat is his work as a men’s meet with clients tended to by his father, Marc. could recognize a Cifonelli shoulder from a one or two tailors,” said Yasna Guillerme wear patternmaker for prominent French fash- “Sometimes we don’t need to see them any- distance of a hundred meters.” Guilson, director of formation at the tailor- ion houses as well as his luxury rtw line simply more. They just tell us, now I’m 85 kilos, and we Thierry Le Guénic, chief executive offi- ing school founded by the Fédération in 2005 called Mr. Smith. Although produced in a gar- know where those extra two — or minus two — cer at Smalto, argued that bespoke tailoring to save the dying craft. “Today, unfortunately, ment factory in Italy, it’s still finished by hand. have gone,” de Luca explained upon his return. “is the only way we can stand out vis-à-vis the there are about 200 left in France, of which With a possible new investor in the wings, Twenty-five people work at the Camps competition.” Following the 2002 departure about 30 are based in Paris.” Smith is thinking about launching a third de Luca atelier, making 350 suits a year. A of founder Francesco Smalto, a former Camps Among the newest is Tailored by Mr line — “a lot cheaper” — to finance his tai- two-piece suit, starting from 6,500 euros, or de Luca apprentice who also studied in New Smith, based in the 18th arrondissement just loring business. Prototypes of leather goods $8,963 at current exchange, requires about York with Sam Harris (former President north of Montmartre. Vincent Smith set up a including shoes and bags, as well as hats, 80 hours of work. Signature traits include Kennedy’s preferred tailor), Le Guénic said it small workshop where design, patternmak- have just been delivered. In addition, there a rectangular notch lapel; a roped, slightly is time to give the brand “a second wind.” ing and tailoring come together. are plans to set up a first boutique within the padded shoulder; a fitted waist, and double Smalto, currently owned by French real A native Londoner, Smith studied at the next two years and expand Tailored by Mr vents for a flatter back. estate entrepreneur Alain Duménil, plans London College of Fashion before training Smith to eight pieces per model by 2016. Cifonelli also has its sights set on ex- to launch a bespoke salon in New York in with the Uniform Clothing Company, which Smith uses the term “men’s couture” to pansion. Run by fourth-generation cousins the second half of the year, before opening explains the utilitarian touch in his collec- describe what he does. A catchy term, he ad- Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli, the tailor is its first U.S. flagship, once the word of a new tion. “Military garments have the best fit, be- mits. “But there is room out there, and there launching a rtw line this fall. tailor in town has spread. cause [a soldier] has to move,” he explained. is a real need for it, too,” he said.

in partnership with Liverpool, the seen strong demand. “It now makes Mexican department store. up 30 percent of our tailored cloth- Crémieux Revamps Paris Flagship At the same time, Crémieux’s ing business,” Crémieux said. “It’s original Saint-Tropez unit is ex- like a car: Customers want to have PARIS — “It’s like a small depart- pected to double in size. their own buttons, their own lining, ment store with only one brand,” Stéphane Crémieux, whose and we like to be on trend.” said Stéphane Crémieux at the father founded the label in 1976, A two-piece suit retails from opening of the company’s new said although the U.S., where the 1,200 euros, or $1,644 at current ex- Paris flagship here last week. brand operates via an exclusive change, while the brand’s bestsell- Located at 185 Boulevard agreement with Dillard’s, is its er is a hand-stitched shirt, which Saint-Germain, the revamped fastest-growing market, Europe goes for 380 euros, or $521. venue is four times larger than the has much potential, too. “The Following the launch of its wom- previous store and carries all the economy here is difficult, but en’s wear line in 2013, the Paris brand’s men’s wear lines as well as we are very optimistic,” he said, store will offer a small women’s accessories, including Crémieux’s announcing plans to set up flag- capsule collection in spring 2015, new eyewear collection, hand- ships in the Netherlands and patterned after its shirts and sport made in France, which it launched Sweden in 2015. coats, but with a more feminine cut. in cooperation with Visioptis ear- The brand, whose men’s According to Martin Miller, lier this year. wear lines generate 95 percent who has been representing the The French preppy-chic label of the business, is betting on the label in the U.S. since he discov- is on a global expansion move. Six The new store is four Millennial customer and is target- ered it in Saint-Tropez 20 years new stand-alone shop openings are times the size of its ing him with a skinnier, sportier fit ago, Crémieux is expected to grow slated for 2014, in addition to nine predecessor. along with a made-to-measure ser- “more than 25 percent” in 2015. shops-in-shop, which it will launch vice made in Italy, for which it has — P.S.