Lake District Climbs Lake District This Bookbelongsto: Catalogue Record Isavailable from Library

Home , Bowfell, Buckbarrow, Buttermere, Carrock Fell, Central Fells, Cold Pike

(E1) -p.223 -EskButtress. Photo:MikeHutton This page: RamonMarin onTheRedEdge Dow Crag.Photo:Mark Glaister Cover: RamonMarinon Tarkus (E2)-p.171 Lake District Climbs Lake District This bookbelongsto: catalogue record isavailable from Library. theBritish mechanical, photocopying orotherwisewithoutprior transmitted inany form orby any means, electronic, Printed Limited inEurope LFBookServices Published by ROCKFAX inNovember 2019 All rights reserved.All rights ofthispublication may Nopart written ofthecopyright owner. permission A CIP Edited by Alan James andRebecca Ting be reproduced, stored in aretrieval system, or Text andphotography by Glaister Mark (ISO 14001 printers) andFSCcertified Distributed by Cordee (cordee.co.uk) This book is printed on FSC-certified This bookisprinted onFSC-certified source data from openstreetmap.org Additional photography Alan James paper madefrom 100% virgin fibre Mark Glaister Mark sourced from sustainable forestry Other photography ascredited Some maps based on original Some mapsbasedonoriginal ISBN 9781873341537 All mapsby ROCKFAX © ROCKFAX 2019 rockfax.com 1

The Eastern Fells Borrowdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Eskdale and Wasdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Langdale . Langdale Lake District Climbing Coniston andDuddon Valley Lake District Logistics Introduction Eskdale and Wasdale Eskdale . Hodge CloseQuarry Cathedral . Quarry Pike o'Blisco. Shelter Crag Bowfell . Neckband Crag . Gimmer Crag . Raven Crag . Pavey Ark White Ghyll CragStickle Barn Scout Crags Raven Crag - Walthwaite . Destination Planner. Graded List . Bouldering Climbing Sport Grades Gear Mountain Rescue and Access . Cafes, GearShopsand Walls . Camping General Information Pubs andHostelsHuts, . Barns Symbol, Mapand Topo Key RockfaxThe App . Stonestar Crag Wallowbarrow Crag . Crag . Burnt Far HillCrag Dow Crag Rockfax Publications . Acknowledgements . Advertisers Other Guidebooks. Bell Stand Hare Crags Hardknott Crag ...... Contents 208 202 200 160 198 130 152 148 132 120 162 192 186 180 102 176 116 38 90 78 62 58 54 48 43 42 36 32 22 68 66 44 40 34 30 20 28 26 18 16 12 14 10 8 4 General Index andMap. . Crag andButtress Index . Route Index The Eastern Fells . Borrowdale . Ennerdale andButtermere Buckbarrow Crag -Longsleddale Gouther Crag Raven Crag - Threshthwaite Cove . Dove Crag . . Eagle Crag -Grisedale Lower Swirl Crag . Castle Rock of Triermain . Raven Crag - Thirlmere . Iron Crag . Goat Crag Steel Knotts . Gillercombe Buttress . Combe Gill Sergeant Crag Slabs . Langstrath Valley . Bowderstone Crags . Quayfoot Buttress Great EndCrag Black Crag . Shepherd's Crag . Gowder Crag . Goats Crag Reecastle Crag . Falcon Crags . Buckstone How . Yew Crag Knotts Grey Crag Eagle Crag High Crag Gable Crag Pillar Rock . Buckbarrow . The Napes. Kern Knotts Pikes Crag . Scafell Heron Crag Esk Buttress Brantrake Crag Lake District Climbs Lake District ...... 470 480 479 462 458 452 448 444 436 432 426 422 402 408 398 392 384 380 378 348 370 353 352 342 334 330 326 322 306 300 286 262 288 278 268 258 232 228 416 316 314 218 212 410 474 3

The Eastern Fells Borrowdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Eskdale and Wasdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Langdale

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 5 Lake DistrictLake Climbs Introduction Traditional rock climbing is firmly embedded in the fabric of the Lake District; climbers climbers District; fabric the Lake of is firmly climbing in the embedded rock Traditional in climbing of rock the inception since crags of its the challenges to been tempted having District has left crags of the Lake The development day. right the present up until the 1800s one of the and is without doubt whole area, the out across superb climbs spread a mass of and high challenges classic mountain seeking out both for climbers destinations UK's finest quality single-pitch lines. all for caters and spans the full spectrum of grades climbing on offer The traditional The majority alongside modern pieces. stand test propositions historic - multi-pitch tastes stone and well-weathered a hard rock, volcanic place on Borrowdale of the climbing takes the Helvellyn, in and around the archetypal climbs found for material raw the that provides are and slate of granite Small enclaves fells. and Langdale Borrowdale Coniston, Scafell, with - Lakeland battle do to medium an alternative and offer fells within the central found style a very traditional of climbing. deliver but with bolts, populated sparsely climbs are slate its climb, District beautiful and aesthetic places to is perhaps one of the most The Lake quaint achingly and valleys manicured seemingly combining with and mere landscape of fell ambience. both the climbing and enjoy places to better few are there villages and pubs - choice of accommodation with a wide It is endowed District is easy. in the Lake Staying in and huts - mostly hostels being camping, with climbers options - the most popular pub. a decent to than not next often stunning locations and more 2019 October Glaister, Mark The Lake District is undoubtedly one of the one District is undoubtedly The Lake a compelling corners; most beautiful UK's picturesque fells, high mix of brooding ingrained and deeply lakes tranquil valleys, visitors attracts that and culture traditions Among the many the world. all around from lucky enough who are few and the visitors, band increasing an ever are call it home, to sample the to drawn climbers of traditional the fellsides. around dotted crags numerous Introduction (VS) - p.100 Lake DistrictLake Climbs

- East Raven Crag, Langdale. Photo: Glaister Collection Mark Glaister enjoying some classic Lakeland climbing and a quintessential backdrop on Baskerville 4 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 7 Lake DistrictLake Climbs The Book The Guidebook Footnote Coverage the to guidebook climbs District is a selected Climbs Lake in the magnificent offer climbing on very traditional best spanning of routes a wealth It covers District. English Lake in both high climbing styles of a full range and difficulty environments. floor valley and mountain from climbing ranging traditional on is very much The focus in Crag and Raven Shepherd's like crags popular low-lying the shape of Scafell, in crags the high mountain Langdale to 1000 Nearly Ark. Gimmer and Pavey Buttress, Esk Pillar, full route described photo-topos, with detailed are routes maps. approach descriptions and precise styledesigned so that it Rockfax is the familiar The format turn or two than a page to more necessary have to is never locate and finally the buttress then get to the crag, get to to on descriptions are Route the start chosen route. of your to left from listed and always topo the same page as their suitable help choose to other features many are There right. weather conditions or on specific depending and crags routes the Destination from can select a crag You ability level. your for symbols also has crag Each topo p.51. to Planner on p.48 on p.10. - see key glance check a quick to sport of in, or close, a number are climbing venues There although the best here not covered that are the National Park Bouldering is also on p.42. of the local sport listed are crags a brief mention on p.43. given by form in digital in this book is also available The information App - see p.8. the Rockfax subscription to The inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does not mean that you have a right climb upon of access or the right to have in this guidebook does not mean that you The inclusion of a climbing area should be placed on and no reliance only reasons historical for recorded within this guide are The descriptions of routes it. Climbers of the climbs. assessment of the difficulty a fair set in this guide are The grades of the description. the accuracy to enough proficient are whether they judgment as to of a particular should use their own a route standard who attempt and distributors publisher The author, judgment. and proper experience for This book is not a substitute that route. tackle parties, third or propertyclimbers, arising or by, injury liabilityany damage caused to, for or recognise of this book do not safety. their own for on this guidebook as an assurance seeking reliance such persons from The Book The

Lake DistrictLake Climbs

Tom Skelhon taking advantage of perfect evening conditions on Tom Buttress (VS) - p.264 - at Kern Knotts, Wasdale. Kern Knotts West The crag is often a waypoint for teams heading to or from The Napes higher up the slopes of Great Gable. Photo: Mark Glaister 6 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells 8 Lake District Climbs The Rockfax App Lake District Climbs 9

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC Logbooks and presents it in a user-friendly package for use on all mobile devices. Langdale The heart of the App is the Rockfax crag and route information covering individual crags, or bundles of crags, in 'areas' which correspond roughly Langdale to printed guidebooks. The main data is sold by subscription so that you can purchase access to all the Rockfax guidebook information for a period of time, from one month to yearly. Once you are subscribed, you

Coniston and Duddon Valley will have access to every digital Rockfax guidebook for the period of your subscription. You can download the main data and store it on your device, so you don't need any signal to be able to read the descriptions and see the topos and maps. There is also plenty of free data available without subscription, enabling you to get a really good impression of what the App is like without shelling out any money. Coniston and Duddon Valley and Duddon Coniston The Rockfax App itself is a free download and incredibly useful in its own right. It Eskdale and WasdaleEskdale contains a detailed crag map linked to the UKClimbing crags database (currently with basic information and route lists for around 20,000 crags Eskdale and Wasdale worldwide). The map also displays all the 4,000+ listings from the UKClimbing Directory Ennerdale and Buttermere of climbing walls, outdoor shops, climbing clubs, outdoor- specific accommodation and instructors and guides, amongst others. Ennerdale and Buttermere Ennerdale

To find the App, search for 'Rockfax App' on Google or in the appropriate store.

UKC Logbooks

Borrowdale An incredibly popular method of logging your climbing is to use the UKClimbing.com logbooks system. This database lists more than 479,000 routes and nearly 20,000 crags; so

far, more than 39,800 users have recorded 6.6 million ascents! To set up your own logbook Borrowdale all you need to do is register at UKClimbing.com and click on the logbook tab. Once set up you will be able to record every ascent you make, when you did it, what style you climbed it in and who you did it with. Each entry has a place for your own notes. You can also add your vote to the grade/star system which is used by guidebook writers from many publishers to get opinions on grades and quality of routes. The logbook can be private, public or restricted to

The Eastern Fells your own climbing partners only.

The Rockfax App can be linked to your UKClimbing.com user account and logbook so that Helen Dudley on the final section of Samson/Close Shave link-up (E1)

you can record your activity while at the crag and look at photos, comments and votes on - p.310 - at High Crag, Buttermere. High Crag spans the gap between Fells Eastern The the routes. To do this you will need a 3G/4G data connection. You can also look at the UKC low-level outcrop and mountain crag, with a relatively quick approach logbooks to see if anyone has climbed your chosen route recently to check on conditions. and fairly reliable conditions. The rock is excellent and the views out over Buttermere and the northern fells spectacular. Photo: Mark Glaister

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 11 (E1). Photo: Mark Glaister (E4) - p.168 - at Dow Crag. He Neil Stabbs about to start the desperate left-leaning thin crack of Genocide is at the point where the well-known line of Holocaust (E4) heads out to the right. In the background is the steep corner of Nimrod Lake DistrictLake Climbs

scan for map 3 belay of parking Coordinates A crag Indifferenta chapter Equipped

Belay 2 GPS 40m Summit Vague path Vague A crag page Path 20m Track navigation Abseil QR code for smartphone height vertical 1 Map Key Topo Key Topo Approximate Approximate parking Additional Town/village Buildings Scale Trees A Roads belay page B Roads Descent another Crag-top Crag-top Route on Route Variation Approach (see route Train description) station tarn Lake/ Symbol, Map and Topo Key Topo Map and Symbol, Crag Symbols Crag Route Symbols Route Lake DistrictLake Climbs

Busy - Places you will seldom be alone, especially at weekends. Good routes and easy access. Crowded - The most popular sections of the most popular crags which are always busy. Quiet - Less popular sections on major crags, or good buttresses with awkward approaches. Some or all of the routes are multi-pitch quiet. usually and under-used Currently - Deserted Fewer good routes or remote and smaller areas. Some or all of the routes have a restriction due to Some or all of the routes have a restriction due to nesting birds. Details in the crag information. The crag can offer shelter from cold winds and it may be a good venue in poor weather. The crag suffers from seepage. It may well be wet and unclimbable unless there has been a dry spell. Approximate time that the crag is in the direct sun Approximate time that the crag is in the direct sun (when it is shining). The crag is exposed to the weather and will catch the wind - best avoided in and after bad weather. Angle of the approach walk to the crag with approximate time. Some loose rock may be encountered. Fluttery with big fall potential and scary climbing run-outs. moves often up Graunchy climbing. Awkward wide cracks or chimneys. Sustained climbing; either lots of hard moves or Sustained climbing; either climbing. steep rock giving pumpy Fingery with significant small holds on climbing the hard sections. Technical climbing requiring good balance and Technical tricky moves. technique, or complex and Powerful rock, low climbing; roofs, steep off small holds. lock-offs or long moves A significant route, one of the most iconic of its A significant route, one of are more than 50. grade in the book. There A very best on the crag. good route, one of the area. one of the best in the A brilliant route, A good route which is well worth the effort. which is well worth the A good route

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S E C 10 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells 12 Lake District Climbs Other Guidebooks Lake District Climbs 13

Rock climbing in the Lake District has been documented in print guidebooks for almost 100 years by the Fell and Langdale Rock Climbing Club (FRCC). The current set of FRCC guidebooks are shown on this page. Langdale Rockfax is very grateful to all previous authors of guidebooks for their dedication and effort in maintaining

Coniston and Duddon Valley the historical record.

Guidebooks

Langdale M.Biden (FRCC 2013) Coniston and Duddon Valley and Duddon Coniston Dow, Duddon and Slate A.Phizacklea (FRCC 1994)

Eskdale and WasdaleEskdale Scafell, Wasdale and Eskdale A.Phizacklea (FRCC 1996) Scafell and Wasdale A.Phizacklea, R.Kenyon (FRCC 2014) Eskdale Eskdale and Wasdale Gable and Pillar P.C Rigby, S.J.H Reid (FRCC 2007)

Ennerdale and Buttermere Buttermere and St Bees S.J.H Reid (FRCC 2008) Borrowdale S.Scott (FRCC 2016)

Eastern Crags and Buttermere Ennerdale A.Davis, N.Wharton (FRCC 2011)

Borrowdale Websites

UKClimbing.com - The UKC Logbook route database for all areas Borrowdale covered in this guidebook.

Rockfax.app - The place to go to get a subscription to the Rockfax app

The Eastern Fells which includes everything in this book and all other current Rockfax books.

frcc.co.uk - Fell and Rock Climbing Dave Henderson on the fingery finishing moves of The Crypt Direct (E1) - p.383 - at Quayfoot Buttress in Borrowdale. Quayfoot Fells Eastern The Club site with information and Buttress is one of a number of low-lying Borrowdale venues that guidebooks published by the FRCC. are quick to approach and dry rapidly, often allowing a route or two to be snatched between showers. Photo: Mark Glaister 14 Lake District Climbs Advertisers

Having breached the overhang above the traverse of Pluto Rockfax is very grateful to the (HVS) at Raven Crag, Langdale, a leader pauses to place following companies, shops, climbing some gear before committing to the bold traverse right to walls and organisations that have the arete on R'n'S Special (E6) - p.96. Photo: Dave Pickford Langdale supported this guidebook:

Access

BMC RAD - Page 37 thebmc.co.uk/rad

Coniston and Duddon Valley Climbing Walls Awesome Walls - Page 2 Liverpool Tel: 01512 982422 Stockport Tel: 01614 949949 Stoke-on-Trent Tel: 01782 341919 Sheffield Tel: 0114 2446622 awesomewalls.co.uk

The Lakeland Climbing Centre - Inside back cover Eskdale and WasdaleEskdale Kendal Tel: 01539 721766 kendalwall.co.uk

Equipment Manufacturers

Arc'teryx - page 17 arcteryx.com

Ennerdale and Buttermere Edelrid - Opposite edelrid.de/en/

Scarpa - Page 39 scarpa.co.uk

Outdoor Shops

The Climbers Shop - Outside back cover Ambleside Tel: 015394 32297

Borrowdale climbers-shop.com

George Fisher - Inside front cover Keswick Tel: 017687 72178 georgefisher.co.uk

Needlesport - Back cover flap Keswick Tel: 017687 72227 needlesports.com The Eastern Fells Kong Adventure - Page 33 Keswick Tel: 017687 75907 kongadventure.com I would like to thank all of the people who people who all of the thank to like I would this guidebook put together me helped have with the end will be pleased you - hopefully result? District Lake and climbed in the lived Having climbing my shared I have years many for - of people a huge number with experiences suffice but name individually, to many too far would this project of you, without any say to - both literally of the ground got off have never of a number are There and metaphorically! highlight and thank to friends like who I would huge guided and shown influenced, that have Paul the years: over patience at the crag Seddon, Emma Dave Louise Dickie, Carling, and Bridget Glaister. Cox Paul Williams, the to all contributors to gratitude huge I owe been produced have guidebooks that various the decades. District over on the Lake following thank the especially to like I would putting ways in many helped have people who Bailey, Dan Hutton, - Mike this book together Pattinson, Dave Andy Ovens, Mark Reeves, Ben Heason, Woodburn, Charlie Cooke, Matt Price, David Henderson, Dave Marr, Tony Macdonald, Marti Charlotte Skelhon, Tom Klinkenberg, Roberts, Rosy Debbie Hallett, Bridget Glaister, Cox, Paul Astbury, Jay Greenwood Rob Ripley, Tom Wilson, Jeremy Marin.and Ramon - Mike to the photographers A final thanks Dom Bush, Dan McKenna, John Hutton, Rob Stone, Tony Chris Prescott, Bailey, and Cox Marin, Ramon Paul Greenwood, Pickford. Dave work to been a pleasure It has once again Sherri Davy Ting, Rebecca Alan James, with team. and the UKC/Rockfax 2019 October Glaister, Mark Acknowledgements (HVS) - Lake DistrictLake Climbs

p.446 - at Lower Swirl Crag, Thirlmere. Photo: Mike Hutton The author tackling the smart little climb Frank 16 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 19

July 2010 June 2007

January 2015 Deep Water October 2016 Chamonix Northern Limestone West Country Climbs West

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19 less than 6 years old less than 6 years 19 North Wales Winter North Wales North Wales NorthClimbs Wales South Wales Sport Climbs Wales South 18 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 21 Charlotte Macdonald completing the finishing moves on the top pitch of Donkey's Ears (HS) - p.369 - at Shepherd's Crag in Borrowdale. Great climbing, a rapid approach, a cafe at its base and quick-drying are the enticing ingredients that make Shepherd's rock Crag one of the Lake District's most popular destinations. Photo: Mike Hutton

Logistics Lake District Lake Climbs 20 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 23 (E2) Photo: Mark Glaister (E2) Photo: Mark - at Dow Crag. This classic route Crag. This classic p.171 - at Dow Route (S) - Murray's Lake DistrictLake Logistics A lone leader ventures out onto the traverse of the fourth pitch traverse of the out onto the leader ventures A lone on weaves 'B' Buttress, and lines on lower the longest is one of The wall to the some formidable overhangs. its way around Pink Panther (E2), the sustained face climbs of left is home to (HVS) and Tarkus Leopard's Crawl Information General 9 7 22 Dec 9 11 21 Nov traveline.info 14 12 20 Oct 16 14 17 Sep 17 15 17 Aug 17 15 19 Jul 17 13 12 golakes.co.uk Jun Tel: 01539 735891 01539 Tel:

Tel: 01539 432582 01539 Tel: 9 10 15

Getting There Getting There - Transport Public on reach to District is easy The Lake transport choice of your public and careful of days several accommodation can allow climbing without needing a car. and Penrith Windermere to trains are There to you connections can take bus where the which are Langdale and Borrowdale, are There best locations without a car. and services Coniston Glenridding, bus to is there area, the Eskdale For Buttermere. on the west servicea train Ravenglass to railway a smaller tourist where coast, from Eskdale. connects to - thetrainline.com, sites Web The weather is rarely poor enough to wash wash poor enough to is rarely The weather crags In these conditions, out a whole day. Barn and Stickle Crag Crag such as Raven and Thirlmere in Rock Castle in Langdale, dry approach, to quick are Crag Shepherd’s seepage. little and have rapidly spring and early are autumn, winter Late the occasional and cold but wet often in on calm days be found can pleasant day crags. valley the sun on the lower-lying May General Information General Tel: 01768 772645 01768 Tel: 8 6 17

Apr 8 6 17 Mar Tel: 01539 435245 01539 Tel: , visitcumbria.com Tel: 01539 441533 01539 Tel: Tel: 01539 446499 01539 Tel:

8 6 Tel: 01539 442895 01539 Tel:

18 Feb

8 6 22 Jan Victoria Street. Victoria Moot Hall, Market Square. Moot Hall, Market Central Buildings, Market Cross. Market Buildings, Central Made in Cumbria, 25 Stramongate. Glebe Road. Avenue. Ruskin Bank Road. Red Lake DistrictLake Logistics , lakedistrict.gov.uk

Temperature ˚C Temperature

Average Min Temp (˚C) Temp Min Average Average Max Temp (˚C) Temp Max Average Average Rain Days/Month Rain Average Windermere Keswick Web sites - sites Web possible to include in these pages. include in these pages. to possible a look at the Tourist Information Centres. They have a lot more useful information than it is than it is information useful more a lot have They Centres. Information Tourist a look at the Tourist Information Centres and National Park Centres Park National and Centres Information Tourist take some accommodation, or need short day a wet do on are to about what of ideas If you Ambleside Kendal Bowness Coniston Grasmere lying crags that take longer to dry. longer to that take crags lying and Sergeant Crag Slabs are popular lower- Slabs are Crag and Sergeant from run-off and seepage. Reecastle Crag Crag Reecastle and seepage. run-off from April to October although some can suffer although some can suffer October April to The valley crags are usually climbable from from climbable usually are crags The valley Black Crag, Kern Knotts and The Napes. The Napes. and Knotts Kern Crag, Black Crag, Pikes Crag, Dow Crag, Esk Buttress, Buttress, Esk Crag, Dow Crag, Pikes Crag, that fall into this category are Gimmer, Grey Grey Gimmer, this category are into that fall of the high sunny crags. Mountain crags crags Mountain crags. of the high sunny for long, climbing is often possible on many on many possible climbing is often long, for If conditions are good but it hasn't been dry good but If conditions are days with a high bivi. days full, with a long rewarding day, or multiple or multiple day, full, with a long rewarding mountain experience can be enjoyed to the to can be enjoyed experience mountain in condition. This is when the true Lakes This is when the true Lakes in condition. Pillar Rock, Gable Crag and Bowfell is and Bowfell Crag Gable Pillar Rock, the high north-facing crags such as Scafell, the high north-facing such as Scafell, crags temperatures in the 20s, everything including including everything in the 20s, temperatures After prolonged dry and with prolonged spells, After not too far away. away. far not too close eye on the forecasts since rain is often is often since rain on the forecasts close eye District, so it is always a good idea to keep a keep to a good idea District, so it is always the days long. However, this is the Lake this is the Lake However, long. the days when the temperature is warm is enough and when the temperature between the end of April and early October April October and early between the end of The best time to visit the Lake District is visit the Lake The best time to When to Go to When 22 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells 24 Lake District Logistics General Information General Information Lake District Logistics 25

Borrowdale Pooley Campsite B5292 A66 A592 from A66 Close map - p.332 and M6, J40 Bridge Camping Barn A66 from Askham YHA Kong Adventure Keswick M6, J40 Pub/Inn/Hotel p.33 A5091

Langdale Gear Shop Climbing Wall Needlesport B5289 Take-away Back cover flap Dale The Eastern Fells Cafe B5289 Bottom Langdale George Fisher Derwent Close map - p.424 Groceries Water Low Bridge End Farm Barn Tourist Information Kirkstile Inside front cover Ullswater Pharmacy Inn Shepherd's Crag Castle Rock Crummock p.353 p.436 Water Brampton A5086 Shepherd's Coniston and Duddon Valley Ennerdale and Buttermere Cafe Thirlmere Grange Glenridding Buttermere Reservoir Close map - p.287 Hollows Kings Head Bridge Hotel Farm Hotel Gillside Syke Farm YHA Campsite Patterdale Dinah Helvellyn Buttermere Hoggus Barn YHA Fox and (949m) Hounds Haweswater YHA Ennerdale Reservoir

Water Pillar Rock A592 Gouther Crag Valley and Duddon Coniston Honister Pass YHA p.288 Seatoller p.462 YHA Stonethwaite Farm Swindale YHA A591 Brotherswater Gable Crag Seathwaite Farm Eskdale and WasdaleEskdale Inn p.300

Dove Crag Eskdale and Wasdale p.452 Satellite Navigation Close map - p.199 Travellers Rest

Wasdale Eskdale and Wasdale GPS 54.060178 The parking spots Head Langdale -2.154509 are indicated with Scafell Crag Close map - p.56 Grasmere Kirkstone Pass p.248 Stickle a precise GPS location and QR Wasdale N.T. Barn code. Just point your phone at YHA Ennerdale and Buttermere the QR code and open in your Scafell (964m) B5343 The Climbers Shop Wast Bow Fell Great chosen navigation app to take Water (902m) Langdale Chapel Stile Outside back cover The Murt you direct to the parking spots. Gimmer Crag Baysbrown Screes Barn Farm Inn Esk Buttress p.102 Elterwater Ambleside p.218 Hostel Gosforth Ennerdale and Buttermere Ennerdale

Wrynose A593 Woolpack Pass Inn YHA Seascale Eskdale N.T. Eskdale Hard Knott Green Pass

Fisherground Borrowdale Holmrook King George The Coniston Fells and Duddon Valley IV Inn Close map - p.161 A591 Staveley Windermere YHA Windermere Borrowdale A595 Coniston

Dow Crag Bowness High Wallowbarrow Getting Around Turner Hall Farm p.162 Coniston Hall For Langdale and Coniston, leave the M6 at junction 36 and Newfield Inn head towards Ambleside on the A591. Coniston can also be Hoathwaite The Kendal Wall

The Eastern Fells approached via the A590 and Torver from the south. Inside back cover Torver Eskdale and Wasdale can be approached through the passes Ulpha of Wrynose and Hard Knott from Langdale, but it is better Kendal From to circle round south on the A590, then continue to Duddon A591 at Bridge and turn off to Ulpha to reach Eskdale. Duddon Fells Eastern The Bridge Blacksmiths For Ennerdale and Buttermere, Borrowdale and the Eastern Arms Fells, leave the M6 at junction 40 and use the A66. A591 from M6, J36

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 27 Tel: 01768 777234 01768 Tel: Tel: 01768 770222 01768 Tel: Tel: 01768 774713 01768 Tel: Tel: 01946 726220 01946 Tel: Tel: 01768 777298 01768 Tel: Tel: 01946 726229 01946 Tel: Lake DistrictLake Logistics Excellent site that is good for the crags in the crags that is good for site Excellent Keswick. Close to Thirlmere. - Map p.424 Gillside Farm gillsidecaravanandcampingsite.co.uk 482346 01768 Tel: in Glendridding up a side Quiet campsite Ullswater. from valley Eastern Fells Eastern - Map p.424 Farm Dale Bottom dalebottomfarm.co.uk - Map p.199 - Map Campsite Wasdale nationaltrust.org.uk at the head of site Trust Superb National approaching for The best campsite Wastwater. on foot. Scafell Inn - Map p.199 Head Wasdale wasdale.com historic to next campsite climbers' Traditional The Napes and Pillar Rock, and bar. hotel on foot. be approached can all Scafell and Buttermere Ennerdale - Map p.287 Campsite Farm Syke sykefarmcampsite.com and Beautiful location betweenButtermere Some hotel/bar. and close to Water Crummock on foot. can be approached crags Borrowdale - Map p.332 Farm Seathwaite seathwaitefarmcamping.co.uk 777394 01768 Tel: big Several in a beautiful valley. site Remote on foot. approached can be crags - Map p.332 Farm Stonethwaite stonethwaitefarm.co.uk of the views with great river to next Big site Valley and the Langstrath a pub, Close to fells. on foot. approached can be crags - Map p.332 Farm Hollows hollowsfarm.co.uk in the middle of Borrowdale. site Picturesque as parking problems avoid A good choice to accessed on foot. easily are crags many Camping 01539 432733 01539 Tel: 01539 437668 01539 Tel: 437668 01539 Tel: - Map p.199 Eskdale Campsite nationaltrust.org.uk in run campsite Trust National Picturesque pubs and some crags. Boot close to - Map p.199 Campsite Fisherground fishergroundcampsite.co.uk 723723 01946 Tel: both with good access to nice site Very get very busy. Can Wasdale. and Eskdale Coniston and Duddon Valley and Duddon Coniston - Map p.161 Hall Campsite Coniston conistonhallcampsite.co.uk 441223 01539 Tel: shore. the lake with access to Pleasant site - Map p.161 Campsite Hoathwaite nationaltrust.org.uk Eskdale and Wasdale Campsites for placed well are sites The following do not listed sites of the Many climbers. autumn and winter. open in the Langdale Langdale - Map p.56 Campsite Great nationaltrust.org.uk at the head of site Trust National Large the crags approaching for Excellent Langdale. be busy. Can the pubs. to and close on foot - Map p.56 Campsite Baysbrown baysbrownfarmcampsite.co.uk 437150 01539 Tel: to Chapel Stile village close site flat A large some to walk to possible is It pubs. nearby and on foot. of the crags with lake Torver near site Trust National Lovely to Possible views. access and great shore on foot. Crag Dow approach - Map p.161 Hall Campsite Turner 716420 01229 Tel: Seathwaite. pub and crags. close to rural site Fabulous Camping Lake DistrictLake Logistics

- Protect the environment at all times. the environment - Protect - Perform toilet duties at least 30m from water and bury the results with a trowel. and bury the results water from duties at least 30m toilet - Perform - Leave the camping area as you would want to find it. Carry out everything you carried in. everythingCarry out find it. to want would as you area the camping - Leave - Keep groups small - only one or two small - only tents. groups - Keep - Don't light any fires, even if there is evidence that fires might have been lit by others. been lit have might evidence that fires is if there even fires, - Don't light any - Leave no litter. Do not bury litter including organic waste litter and remove other people's. other and remove litter waste including organic bury Do not litter no litter. - Leave - Camp above the highest fell wall, well away from towns and villages. towns from away well wall, the highest fell above - Camp There are some guidelines that need following for wild camping in the National Park: wild camping for some guidelines that need following are There that last for years. that last for walk-ins. It is also a superb and enjoyable way to spend time and usually creates memories creates spend time and usually to way and enjoyable It is also a superb walk-ins. advantage of sustained spells of good weather while high up in the mountains and reduce and reduce up in the mountains while high of good weather spells of sustained advantage Wild Camping Wild take to you It allows option. is a great crags, the remoter near to especially camping, Wild in advance especially at busy holiday times or if in groups. if in groups. times or holiday at busy especially in advance some of its finest and most convenient for the visiting climber. It is well worthwell It is space booking visiting climber. for the finest and most convenient some of its Camping are here listed District sites of and the selection in the Lake for catered is well Camping Wild camping on Haystacks above Ennerdale and Buttermere and Ennerdale above on Haystacks camping Wild with Great Gable in the background. Photo: Dan Bailey 26 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 29 Tel: 0345 371 9624 Tel: 0345 371 9337 Tel: Tel: 0345 371 9317 0345 371 Tel: 0345 371 9508 Tel: Tel: 0345 371 9680 Tel: 0345 371 9522 Tel: Lake DistrictLake Logistics Dinah Hoggus Camping Barn Dinah Hoggus lakelandcampingbarns.co.uk 777689 01768 Tel: in Borrowdale. Small barn in Rosthwaite YHA Borrowdale yha.org.uk with cabins and in Rosthwaite hostel Well-placed camping. Fells Eastern Camping Barn End Farm Bridge Low lakelandcampingbarns.co.uk 779242 01768 Tel: Castle location for Small camping barn in a great crags. Thirlmere and nearby Rock YHA Patterdale yha.org.uk Good for with camping available. A very nice hostel the eastern crags. Ennerdale and Buttermere Ennerdale YHA Ennerdale yha.org.uk Pillar for Great camping barn. and hostel Remote is time as approach the walk Cuts down Rock. road. forestry up restricted allowed Sail YHA Black yha.org.uk long (access by A true hut experience mountain Ennerdale. at the head of only) walk YHA Buttermere yha.org.uk in Buttermere. crags various access to Good for and cabins. Camping YHA Honister yha.org.uk Yew Crag, accessing Gable positioned for Well How. and Buckstone Knotts Crag Borrowdale Barns Hostels and Huts, Tel: 01946 726044 01946 Tel: Tel: 01946 726229 01946 Tel: Tel: 0345 371 9317 0345 371 Tel: Eskdale Eskdale Wasdale and YHA Eskdale yha.org.uk Possible also available. with camping hostel Large of crags. a number to walk to Head Inn Wasdale wasdale.com access for Great available. and rooms Self-catering Wasdale. around major crags to Murt Camping Barn murtbarn.co.uk Water. Wast Small camping barn at the end of Tel: 01539 437245 01539 Tel: Tel: 01229 715011 01229 Tel: Tel: 0345 371 9630 Tel:

YHA Coniston Coppermines YHA Coniston yha.org.uk Great Langdale Bunkhouse Great greatlangdalebunkhouse.co.uk for Good Barn. Stickle to next Located on foot. the major crags approaching Hostel Elterwater elterwaterhostel.co.uk pub and to Close run hostel. privately Lovely on foot. can be approached some crags Valley and Duddon Coniston and fine with plenty of atmosphere hostel Remote Crag. Dow Good for fells. of the surrounding views Camping Barn Wallabarrow High wallabarrow.co.uk and pub. Crag Wallowbarrow location for Great barn. to next also available Cottage Barns and Hostels Langdale Huts, Barns Hostels and Huts,

Lake DistrictLake Logistics

Climbing Huts Climbing and groups accommodation for of A useful source of climbing club huts individuals is the profusion These the National Park. throughout scattered non members by in advance be booked can often major and close to good value generally and are see thebmc.co.uk details For climbing venues. There are many accommodation options options accommodation many are There Lake the throughout the crags to close available barn basic camping from to These range District. luxurious spa hotels. of the basic bunkhouse, some are here Listed YHA options that are and hostel climbing hut, are Their locations the mountains. for placed well of and on some p.24/p.25 on the map on marked maps. the close-up 28 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 31 Lake DistrictLake Logistics Enjoying a post-climb pint at the Blacksmiths Arms, one of Arms, pint at the Blacksmiths a post-climb Enjoying country Lakeland many tremendous Mark Glaister pubs. Photo: Pubs Borrowdale - Map p.332 Hotel Scafell bar and beer hotel Large Borrowdale. garden. Langstrath Inn - Map p.332 Quaint rural pub with beer Stonethwaite. nearby. Campsite garden. Inn - Map p.332 Swinside pub with friendly nice, Very Valley. Newlands side of lake. On the west beer garden. Coledale Inn - Map p.332 bar and hotel Easygoing Braithwaite. good beer garden. Ennerdale and Buttermere and Ennerdale Hounds Inn - Map p.24 and Fox Small village pub at the Bridge. Ennerdale end of Ennerdale. Inn - Map p.24 Kirkstile Hidden gem with friendly Loweswater. and quality food. atmosphere - Map p.287 Hotel Bridge bar and beer hotel Large Buttermere. the lake. from the road just down garden - Map p.199 Inn - Map Head Wasdale hotel positioned Superbly Head. Wasdale after A favourite garden. bar and beer or Pillar The Napes Scafell, climbing on nearby. Campsite Rock. Eastern Fells Eastern The King's Head Inn - Map p.444 pub. roadside Convenient Thirlmere. Inn - Map p.452 Brotherswater inn with large regarded Well Brotherswater. attached. camping site Pubs Lake DistrictLake Logistics

road is also a nice spot. is also road Wast Water. The Strands Inn just across the Inn just across The Strands Water. Wast Nether Wasdale. Good village pub close to Good village pub close to Wasdale. Nether The Screes Inn - Map p.279 The Screes from either the Eskdale or Wasdale crags. Wasdale or the Eskdale either from Holmrook. Convenient pub to stop off at off stop to pub Convenient Holmrook. King George IV - Map p.212 King George large beer garden. Campsite nearby. Campsite beer garden. large Hard Knott Pass. Spacious country Spacious pub with Pass. Knott Hard Woolpack Inn - Map p.202 Woolpack beer garden with lots of atmosphere. beer garden Eskdale and Wasdale Broughton Mills. Isolated traditional pub and traditional Isolated Mills. Broughton - Map p.161 Arms Blacksmiths in the Duddon valley. Campsite nearby. Campsite valley. in the Duddon Seathwaite. Excellent pub with beer garden pub with beer garden Excellent Seathwaite. Newfield Inn - Map p.161 Newfield Coniston and Duddon Valley and Duddon Coniston beer garden. Often less busy. Often beer garden. Little Langdale. Pleasant country pub with a Langdale. Little Three Shires Inn - Map p.56 Shires Three in an idyllic setting. Can be very busy. Can in an idyllic setting. Elterwater. A traditional Lakeland village pub village Lakeland A traditional Elterwater. Britannia Inn - Map p.56 Britannia garden. Campsite nearby. Campsite garden. busy bar in a barn outside beer with large busy Great Langdale. Atmospheric, friendly, often often Atmospheric, friendly, Langdale. Great - Map p.56 Barn Stickle Langdale. Campsite nearby. Campsite Langdale. sheltered beer garden set at the head of beer garden sheltered Great Langdale. Historic hotel bar and bar and hotel Historic Langdale. Great - Map p.56 Old Dungeon Ghyll well placed for climbers and recommended. climbers placed for well Langdale District than those listed here, but these are are these but here, District than those listed Pubs Pubs the Lake pubs in more many are There 30 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells wilfs-cafe.co.uk Kendal Wall Kendal Kong Adventure Kong kendalwall.co.uk Tel: 01539 721766 01539 Tel: Tel: 01768 775907 01768 Tel: kongadventure.com Heads Road, Keswick Heads Road, large gear shop on site. See map on p.332 and advert opposite See map on p.332 and advert Lake District Business Park, Kendal District Business Park, Lake shop. Easy access and free parking. leading walls and lots of bouldering plus leading walls and lots of bouldering plus State of the art climbing centre with large State of the art climbing centre with large See map on p.25 and advert inside back cover inside back See map on p.25 and advert an indoor Via Ferrata. Also has a cafe and an indoor Via Ferrata. Also has a cafe Climbing and bouldering walls plus cafe and Climbing and bouldering walls plus cafe Eden Rock edenrockclimbing.com Carlisle, Bouldering centre. Ambleside Climbing Wall amblesideadventure.co.uk Ambleside, Small lead and bouldering wall. Keswick Climbing Wall keswickclimbingwall.co.uk Keswick, Small lead and bouldering wall. Climbing Walls Climbing - Map p.322 - Map (Buttermere) Mine Slate Honister honister.com Pass, Honister approach. Crag and Gable Buttermere for Handy - Map p.354 (Borrowdale) Cafe Shepherd's highlodorefarm.co.uk Farm, High Lodore Crag. Shepherd's under cafe climbers' Traditional - Map p.449 (Eastern) Hotel The Patterdale patterdalehotel.co.uk Patterdale, and a nice garden. stop a quick access for Easy - Map p.470 (South Lakes) Cafe Wilfs Staveley, Mill Yard, Good if road. Windermere to the Kendal off Just the Lakes. from away or heading approaching Cafes, Gear Shops and Walls Gearand Shops Cafes, - Map p.161 Needle Sports George Fisher George Climbers Shop Climbers Kong Adventure Kong Tel: 01539 430122 01539 Tel: Tel: 01768 772178 01768 Tel: Tel: 01768 772227 01768 Tel: Tel: 01768 775907 01768 Tel: Lake DistrictLake Climbs needlesports.com georgefisher.co.uk climbers-shop.com kongadventure.com Heads Road, Keswick Heads Road, 56 Main Street, Keswick 56 Main Street, Compston Ambleside Compston Road, 2 Borrowdale Road, Keswick Road, 2 Borrowdale department and in-store cafe. with knowledgable staff on hand. See map on p.332 and advert opposite See map on p.332 and advert department, cafe and climbing wall.

range of specialist climbing equipment. See map on p.57 and advert on back cover

Very large store with climbing equipment Very large store with climbing equipment Central Lake District location with a large Central Lake District location with a large

Long established specialist climbing store, See map on p.332 and advert inside front cover See map on p.332 and advert on back cover flap cover on back See map on p.332 and advert

Large outdoor equipment store with climbing Large outdoor equipment store with climbing Gear Shops National Trust Cafe (Wasdale) - Map p.199 (Wasdale) Cafe Trust National carpark, Wasdale. National Trust just takeaway. No seating, Broughton in Furness, broughtonvillagebakery.com Furness, in Broughton Duddon to way call in on to and bakery easy Cafe Wasdale. and Eskdale valley, Broughton Bakery & Cafe (Duddon) (Duddon) & Cafe Bakery Broughton Herdwicks Cafe (Coniston) - Map p.161 (Coniston) Cafe Herdwicks herdwicksconiston.co.uk Road, Yewdale main street. on the and food coffee Reliable Stickle Barn (Langdale) Barn - Map p.56 Stickle nationaltrust.org.uk Langdale, Great all the main to spot close and friendly Excellent carparks the majority begin. where of approaches Cafes 32 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 35

Jordan Buys in the slim finishing corner of The Cumbrian (E5) - p.226 - high on the stupendous headwall of Esk Buttress. The central pillar of Esk Buttress is one of the Lake District's finest climbing venues set in the upper reaches of Eskdale and surrounded by the peaks of Bowfell, Scafell and Scafell Pike. Photo: Mike Hutton Climbing Lake DistrictLake 34 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells Mountain Rescue Access and Mountain RescueMountain Have the following information ready. ready. information the following Have What time did the incident take place? take time did the incident What Give a phone number and name and do not turn number a phone phone off. Give Where is the accident? - map grid reference or GPS location. grid the accident? - map is reference Where How many people are injured and what is the nature of the injury. and what is the nature injured people are many How Lake DistrictLake Climbing In the event of a incident requiring assistance you need Mountain Rescue: Mountain need you assistance incident requiring of a In the event Dial 112 or 999 and ask for ‘POLICE' then 'Mountain Rescue' ‘POLICE' then and ask for or 999 Dial 112

thebmc.co.uk [email protected] Tel: 0870 010 4878 Fax: 0161 445 4500. 445 4500. 0161 Fax: 4878 0870 010 Tel: British Mountaineering Council, 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester, M20 2BB. Burton Manchester, Road, British 177-179 Mountaineering Council, British Mountaineering Council Mountaineering British involvement at an early stage can defuse a situation before it develops. can defuse a situation before stage at an early involvement representative. They are always happy to discuss problems and often the BMC’s the BMC’s and often discuss problems to happy always are They representative. If you do encounter problems then contact the BMC Access and Conservation and Conservation Access the BMC then contact problems do encounter If you RAD app from your iOS or Android app store. Android iOS or your RAD app from or install the BMC the - thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ or install the RAD here can check You is. you use the BMC Regional Access Database to check what the up-to-date situation what the up-to-date check to Database Access use the BMC Regional you Access arrangements can change and we recommend that, when you are unsure, unsure, are that, when you recommend and we can change arrangements Access abide by the Country Code. the Country Code. abide by leave a place in better shape than you found it; take only pictures and leave only footprints; and footprints; only and leave pictures only take it; found shape than you a place in better leave In general all that is required to maintain access is reasonable behaviour. Try to to Try behaviour. reasonable access is maintain to that is required all In general covered in the text; just keep an eye out for the red bird restrictions icon (right). icon (right). restrictions bird the red out for an eye just keep in the text; covered a few cases there are temporary restrictions due to nesting birds. These details are are These details nesting birds. to due temporary restrictions are cases there a few are lucky to enjoy almost unrestricted access to nearly all the routes in the book. In in the book. all the routes nearly access to almost unrestricted enjoy lucky to are one of these in the appropriate app store. one of these in the appropriate and we years many been climbed on for The majority in this book have of crags grid reference from your phone's GPS system - search for Grid Reference to find to Grid Reference for - search phone's GPS system your from grid reference Access phone's GPS system. There are also other useful apps that can calculate your OS OS your other useful apps that can calculate also are There phone's GPS system. approach the helicopter unless directed to do so by the aircrew. do so by to directed unless the helicopter approach location using your in and send your which country are service you no matter equipment together and get someone to sit on them to stop them being blown away. Do not away. them being blown stop sit on them to and get someone to equipment together emergency the correct that will call This useful app has an SOS button app store. or send the winchman down. The downdraft is considerable so collect all the bags and loose so collect all the bags and loose is considerable The downdraft down. or send the winchman Smartphone Apps Android the iOS or app from a smartphone the Echo112 then download have If you are coming in to hover, then move to a safe distance away since they will either come into land come into will either since they away distance a safe to then move hover, coming in to are standing with your arms up making a 'Y' shape. Once the pilot has seen you, and looks like they they and looks like the pilot has seen you, Once arms with your making a 'Y' shape. up standing administer is critical. If a helicopter is called to the scene you need to signal to the pilot by the pilot by signal to need to the scene you called to is If a helicopter is critical. administer It may take an hour or more for the emergency services to reach you so any First Aid you can Aid you First so any you services reach the emergency to for an hour or more take It may Rescue Procedure 36 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells Gear Lake DistrictLake Climbing

subscription from rockfax.app subscription from The Rockfax app also has GPS location indicators built in on the maps and it is available by by in on the maps and it is available built app also has GPS location indicators The Rockfax subscribe to the OS app for all these maps on your phone with GPS location indicator. all these maps on your for the OS app subscribe to and OL7 giving coverage of all the approaches to crags in this book. Alternatively you can you Alternatively in this book. crags to of all the approaches and OL7 giving coverage The Ordnance Survey Explorer series of maps are excellent with maps OL4, OL5, OL6 excellent series of maps are Explorer Survey The Ordnance use a navigation aid to locate the crag and/or find the way back to safety. to safety. back way and/or find the the crag locate aid to use a navigation map and compass (and have the skills to use them). In poor visibility it may be necessary In poor visibility it may to use them). the skills to map and compass (and have maps in this book are as accurate as space allows, but it is advisable to also carry to a good it is advisable but as space allows, as accurate maps in this book are your back allowing maximum movement and keeping it clear of harness and keeping and gear. movement maximum allowing back your The signed. and rarely on good paths is not always crags the mountain and from to Walking packing on a long day out. All this kit needs to fit into a small compact pack that sits high on that sits a small compact pack into fit to All this kit needs out. on a long day packing Navigation more comfortable in approach shoes. Sun cream, snacks, headtorch and water are all worth are and water headtorch snacks, Sun cream, shoes. in approach comfortable more The steep and sometimes very long descent walk-offs/scrambles on many crags are far far are crags on many and sometimes very long descent walk-offs/scrambles The steep accident or if you become lost. become lost. accident or if you routes. the longer mountain is advised for carry other items) to shoes (and any A light sack less painful. Having plenty of warm clothes to hand may be a lifesaver in the event of an in the event be a lifesaver plenty hand may Having of warm clothes to less painful. Other Gear and gloves are worthwhile additions to a pack and can make a long belaying stint a little stint a little a long belaying and can make worthwhile a pack are additions to and gloves unpleasant experience without the correct clothing. Waterproofs, warm mid-layers and hats warm mid-layers Waterproofs, clothing. the correct without unpleasant experience Any day out in the mountains of The Lake District and up being a cold, wet can end Lake The of out in the mountains day Any tucked away on the back of your harness. harness. of your on the back away tucked Clothing is not essential as once the approach is completed the abseil rope can be pulled. the abseil rope is completed the approach is not essential as once addition and can be easily a sensible loops are Prussik abseil is essential. be used to descents if desired. On some crags an extra rope for abseil approach may be desirable, but but be desirable, may abseil approach for rope an extra On some crags descents if desired. also that can device belay A good double-rope A helmet and chalk bag go without saying. and allow for the option to abseil a full rope-length from multi-pitch routes, or make abseil or make routes, multi-pitch from a full rope-length abseil to the option for and allow Other Gear complex pitches that weave around, double ropes reduce rope drag making climbing easier making climbing easier drag rope reduce ropes double around, pitches that weave complex Brantrake Crag and Long Scar can be climbed on a single rope. However, on long and However, on a single rope. and Long Scar can be climbed Crag Brantrake normal length. Some of the shorter single-pitch routes at areas such as Stickle Barn Crag, Barn such as Stickle Crag, at areas of the shorter Some routes single-pitch normal length. A pair of double ropes is required for most of the routes in this book - 50m or 60m is the in this book - 50m or 60m is the most of the routes for is required ropes A pair of double UK trad climber. UK trad Ropes 4 or 5 slings of varying lengths complete the basic arsenal usually carried by the seasoned the seasoned carried by usually arsenal the basic 4 or 5 slings of varying lengths complete wires (for some of the harder routes). A selection of extenders or 'quickdraws', and at least or 'quickdraws', selection of extenders A routes). of the harder some (for wires range of other gear will be needed. of other range Runners and micro- camming devices/hexes set of wires, a double based around is A typical rack shoes, helmet, harness, belay device, nut key and chalk bag, an extensive (and expensive!) (and expensive!) an extensive and chalk bag, key nut device, helmet, harness, belay shoes, to protect an ascent has to be carried up the crag. In addition to the basic essentials of rock rock of basic essentials the to In addition be carriedcrag. up the to has an ascent protect to On all but two of the climbs in this guidebook there is no fixed gear, so everything required required everything so gear, two is no fixed but On all there this guidebook climbs in of the 38 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells 40 Lake District Climbing Grades Lake District Climbs 41

Nearly all of the routes covered in this book are 'trad' (traditional) ritish Trad Grade routes. These trad routes are Langdale protected predominantly using wires, cams and slings hand placed by the leader, as well as other means such Langdale as threads and pegs (which may be in place). The routes are given a British Trad Grade and a red and

Coniston and Duddon Valley white dotted line on the topo. There are only three sport routes described in this guidebook. These climbs are given a Sport Grade and a red and yellow dotted line on the topo. A sport route is defined as one where all the major protection Valley and Duddon Coniston comes from gear fixed in the rock (bolts). Eskdale and WasdaleEskdale British Trad Grade 1) Adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, Severe, Hard Severe (HS), Very

Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe Eskdale and Wasdale (HVS), E1... to E10). This gives an overall picture of the route including how well protected

Ennerdale and Buttermere it is, how sustained and a general indication of the level of difficulty of the whole route. 2) Technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c... to 7b). The difficulty of the hardest single

move, or short section. and Buttermere Ennerdale

Colour Coding The routes are given a colour-coded dot corresponding to a grade band. The

Borrowdale 3 colour represents a level that a climber - E1 to E3 (6b to 7a) should be happy at, hence sport and indoor A grade band which includes many of the

routes tend to be technically harder than area's big classics, but they should not be Borrowdale the equivalent coloured trad routes because underestimated. the climber doesn't need to worry about the 4 - E4 and above (7a+ and above) protection. The really hard stuff including some of the most famous hard trad climbing in the 1 - Up to Severe (Up to Sport 4c)

The Eastern Fells country. A great place to start with some major mountain classics in these grades. 2 - HS to HVS (5a to 6a+) The Eastern Fells Eastern The An increased difficulty level and even more Marti Hallett on the technical slim corner high great routes to go at. on the second pitch of Poker Face (E1) - p.84 - at Pavey Ark, Langdale. Photo: Mike Hutton 42 Lake District Climbing Sport Climbing Bouldering Lake District Climbing 43

Jay Astbury cruising up the lower section of The Tipton There are a number of sport climbing There is a vast amount of high quality (6c) at Bramcrag Quarry. Photo: Mark Glaister Slasher crags dotted around the periphery of bouldering on offer throughout the Lake the main centres of traditional climbing District and Cumbria. The rock type varies Langdale in the Lake District. The best is Chapel greatly including mountain volcanics, slate, Head Scar in the south of the National Park, gabbro, limestone, granite and sandstone. Below are while both Bramcrag Quarry and St Bees some of the best spots including both well-known Langdale are popular and offer the chance of dry bolt- venues and more recently developed boulders protected climbing should the weather be poor and circuits. The best guidebook is Lake District on the higher crags. Bouldering (Vertebrate Publishing) while the Chapel Head Scar, Scout Scar and Humphrey website Lakesbloc.com has lots of up-to-date Coniston and Duddon Valley Head are covered in the guidebook Northern information and topos online. Limestone (Rockfax) and St Bees in Buttermere and St Bees (FRCC). Brantfell - South Lakes Bram Crag Quarry has app coverage - see A tiny escarpment with many fingery wall problems frcc.co.uk and an exquisite outlook.

Chapel Head Scar Langdale Boulders - Map on p.56 Valley and Duddon Coniston An extensive limestone escarpment. The finest Classic problems in the heart of Langdale. sport crag in the Lake District with long well-

Eskdale and WasdaleEskdale equipped single-pitch lines on superb rock. Cold Pike - Map on p.56 The best climbs range from 6c to 7c+. High boulders and walls in a beautiful location.

Scout Scar Coniston and Coppermines Valley - Map on p.162 A small limestone crag in a lovely setting not Great area for mid-grade problems with the far from Kendal. Short well-bolted lines - the centrepiece being the Pudding Stone. The nearby Eskdale and Wasdale best range from 6b to 7a. Lad Stones feature some big boulders.

Humphrey Head Eskdale Fisherground - Map on p.208 Ennerdale and Buttermere A pleasant seaside limestone venue with Extensive circuits developed over many years. some reasonable climbs that are often dry when wet elsewhere. Grades from 6a to 7b+. Sampson's Stones - Map on p.219 A long approach but some of the area's best. St Bees

An outlying sandstone sea cliff with lots of The Bowderstone - Map on p.384 and Buttermere Ennerdale routes and good bouldering. A fairly long drive The crucible of elite bouldering in the north Lakes. and approach walk, but worth a look if the All the problems are hard, but they stay dry and are western fells are wet. Grades from 6a to 8a. only a short walk from the parking.

Borrowdale Bramcrag Quarry - Map on p.424 Gillercombe Boulders - Map on p.408 A large quarry with a wealth of long intricate A fine series of venues with a spread of grades and pitches on micro-granite. The quarry is superb stone. Borrowdale privately owned and access is restricted - no groups. Park carefully. Lots in the mid grades. St Bees - West Coast Sandstone bouldering down by the sea. Slate Lots of small venues between Langdale and Carrock Fell - Northeast Lakes

The Eastern Fells Coniston. The best information is available on Fellside boulders of all shapes and sizes. UKC database - ukclimbing.com/logbook/ The Badger Stone and Kentmere Boulders - South Eastern Fells

A huge boulder in a field and lots more in the woods Fells Eastern The Claire Aspinall on Eiger Aspirant (f5+) at Cold Pike, approached from the summit above. Easily accessed from Staveley to the south. of the Wrynose Pass. Photo: Mike Hutton

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 45 88 72 86 82 72 110 110 118 118 401 170 122 142 183 150 146 419 412 154 167 419 128 313 156 367 227 250 339 441 324 241 467 241 441 344 266 340 272 429 241 396 363 367 250 434 441 344 372 336 344 364 460 305 305 250 382 441 394 344 246 340 ...... 437 117 115 147 148 121 133 413 163 184 416 355 220 239 337 323 236 347 335 343 371 ...... Wild Sheep ...... Wild ...... Pink Panther The Sting ...... Ichabod The Go Between ...... Fastburn Rigor Mortis Eliminate Thirlmere ...... Astra Direct Gillette Hearth Direct Finish Flake - Finger The Rack Aphasia ...... The Cayman Hiddenite Phoenix ...... Eliminate Ghyll White ...... Fever Yellow Sky (6b+) Pillar ...... Central ...... Eliminate Triermain Ti Pa Isengard/Samba The Question M.G.C. Buttress Bleak How Sheep ...... Black ...... The Bracken-Clock Spring Bank Glass Slipper ...... Wizard The White ...... Shifter ...... the Edge . . . to Close The Ghost Noise White 1 Route Buttress Crag Falcon ...... Darklands Guillotine Air on a Bowstring ...... Ram Battering Silence Roaring GTX...... Cruel Sister ...... Snack Snicker The Tomb . The Nazgul ...... Lost Colonies of the Rings Lord . The Niche ...... Saxon the Looking Glass Through Connection Tumbleweed Lake DistrictLake Climbs 4 *** *** Bloodhound 4 ...... *** Equus 4 *** 4 4 *** 4 4 *** *** 4 ...... *** Innominate/Sepulchre *** Plagiarism ...... *** 4 4 *** *** ...... *** Tracheotomy *** 4 4 *** *** 4 *** *** *** *** *** 4 4 *** *** 4 *** Prana *** 4 ...... *** Athanor ...... *** Thumbscrew 4 *** *** *** 4 4 *** Paladin *** *** *** *** *** *** Kidnapped 4 4 *** *** Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω E2 88 97 88 110 201 173 183 151 169 166 169 156 156 419 154 178 419 122 154 154 154 419 154 434 429 227 434 250 372 467 241 305 277 305 223 434 243 460 460 336 429 457 460 457 388 460 434 280 344 379 292 243 238 344 277 ...... Graded List Graded 34 52 175 433 232 453 385 Page Photo ...... Grand Alliance Grand Edition Limited Staircase Marble ...... Beyond One Step ...... The Voyage The Vikings ...... Twister Dream Eastern Hammer The Shining Path Burning Desire The Cumbrian of Class First of Delirium The Gates Lost Horizons ...... Angel Fallen on EmptyRunning ...... Racer Boy Dry Gasp Tumble Malice ...... in Wonderland The Main Event The Main . (7b) ...... Expectations Great ...... of Laughter Peels ...... and Furious Fast After Years Ten ...... High Performance and Fascination Fear ...... Trilogy of Fire Wheels ...... Gear Top The Medlar ...... Side Story West Grooves Nagasaki (Hodge Close) . . . . . Second Coming ...... Oasis Bitter ...... Mother Courage First Night Nerves Night ...... First The Quest Khan Shere The Almighty Servitude Penal Supernatural ...... 4 *** *** *** ...... *** Chiron *** Sarcophagus *** *** *** *** Humdrum 4 *** *** 4 *** ...... *** Basilica 4 *** *** Blitzkrieg ...... *** *** *** *** Shadowfax *** ...... *** Holocaust *** Abraxas 4 *** Powerglide 4 *** *** *** *** *** *** 4 4 *** 4 *** *** *** Inquisition ...... *** *** *** *** Tapestry *** *** *** Mirage *** 4 *** 4 *** Exposure 4

Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω E4 E3 E5 Graded List Graded 97 88 88 97 419 122 154 431 243 344 277 457 467 388 457 457 431 460 388 250 457 241 241 . . . . 14 157 Page Photo This page This ...... Lake DistrictLake Climbing ...... Daylight Robbery Daylight R 'n' S Special ...... Internal Combustion Union Western ...... Crow Footless Fright Stage ...... Hell's Wall City ...... Bucket ...... Bleed In Hell ...... Impact Day ...... a Shovelhead Rides Dawes Vlad the Impailer Dynasty Bucket . Phoenix in Obsidian ...... Welcome to the Cruel World the Cruel to Welcome Day Another Lonely The Keswickian *** Zeya *** *** *** 4 *** Ringwraith 4 ...... *** Sixpence *** 4 *** ...... *** Ataxia *** *** *** 4 4 4 *** Fearless *** *** *** *** Breathless

Dave Birkett on one of his many high-grade mountain of his many high-grade Birkett on one Dave (E9) - p.240 - to the Cruel World routes - Welcome on the East Buttress of Scafell. Dave is one of a long line of Langdale based Birketts who have been at the forefront of climbing development in the Lake District over the last 80 years or so. Photo: Mark Glaister Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω

E7 E8 E6 E9 44 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 47 65 94 60 97 95 110 112 114 112 112 174 107 170 173 126 188 169 318 166 467 364 260 357 254 299 277 260 357 442 272 271 406 357 291 299 299 272 272 256 224 451 257 375 409 271 320 292 321 256 ...... 23 274 172 127 186 468 328 258 353 233 423 407 289 268 225 408 ...... This page This ...... and Low Man from Hopkinson's Cairn Man from and Low ...... Wall Kennel ...... 'A' Route Arete Grooved Slabs Face Brown Climb Gangway Chamonix ...... Little ...... Gimmer Chimney Climb ...... and Crack Wall West Climb ...... New Crawl and Lyon's Variation Oliverson's 'C' Ordinary Route ...... 1 (Scout Crag) Route Needle Ridge ...... Slabs ...... Ash Tree ...... Ridge Direct Arrowhead ...... Slabs Direct Brown Buttress Middlefell Giant's Crawl Corvus Brown Slabs Arete Slab and Notch ...... Route West The Old ...... The Arete Knife-Edge ...... Wall Tophet ...... West Slabs Route Crack Hopkinson's Walthwaite) - Crag 2 (Raven Route Climb Rib and Slab Langdale) Crag (Raven Revelation Crack The Wasdale The Arete Rake Lord's from Direct Route Jones' Buttress Bowfell Bridge's Route ...... Route Murray's ...... Wall Kestrel North Climb Thomas . Climb ...... Woodhead's ...... 'C' Route ...... 'D' Route Pinnacle Troutdale ...... The Original Route Buttress Gillercombe ...... Buttress Abbey Route Direct and Cambridge Oxford ...... and Crack Chimney Arete, Hopkinson's Cairn to Rake Lord's from Direct Suaviter 4 4 4 *** *** 4 *** *** 4 *** 4 4 4 *** *** 4 4 *** 4 4 4 4 4 4 *** *** 4 4 *** 4 *** *** 4 4 4 *** *** 4 *** 4 4 4 4 4 *** 4 *** 4 4 Lake DistrictLake Climbing

D Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω HS Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω HVD VD M S 74 72 72 86 77 97 110 114 108 106 106 170 315 166 313 254 282 266 272 280 363 265 467 359 442 256 272 321 250 352 359 253 320 294 375 245 299 224 359 326 305 ...... 6 70 103 314 160 255 278 263 283 463 360 249 284 331 302 Graded List Graded . . . . . Page Photo ...... The Gordian Knot ...... The Gordian Route The Obverse ...... Hopkinson's Gully ...... Direct Murray's ...... Wall Dexter (Gimmer Crag) The Crack Rake End Wall Folly Fisher's Needle ...... The Buckbarrow Buttress West Knotts Kern . . Slab ...... Botterill's 'A' Eliminate ...... Paradise Fool's The Fang Ardus Route Direct Moss Gill Grooves ...... Wall Ghyll White Delilah Fortiter and Slab Climb Bracket ...... Crack Innominate Northwest Arete Northwest Climb ...... Pinnacle Direct Troutdale Arete and Jones' Moss Ledge Direct Eagle's Nest Ridge Direct Slip Knot ...... Mickledore Grooves Mickledore ...... Not ...... Haste ...... Grooves Sinister ...... 'F' Route Engineer's Slab ...... Eagle Front Climb Southwest ...... Bilberry Buttress Wall Route/Medusa Chimney Square Adam 4 *** 4 *** 4 *** Witch 4 *** 4 *** *** 4 4 *** *** 4 ...... *** Eve 4 4 *** 4 4 4 4 4 4 *** *** 4 4 ...... *** Asterisk 4 4 *** 4 4 4 *** 4 *** 4

Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω VS 85 77 88 97 60 110 118 174 311 401 401 401 214 419 156 170 313 414 272 308 375 243 382 442 451 363 438 359 340 243 375 ...... 78 410 215 399 381 439 9, 307 9, ...... Mandrake Direct Gazebo Golden Slipper ...... Direct Crack Kransic The Lost Boys Bastion Overhanging 2 ...... Terminator ...... Cragsman Lakeland ...... Route Central Great Crack Crocodile ...... Play Foul ...... Right-hand Crack The Mortician...... The Centaur Behind the Lines Kipling Groove Crawl Leopard's ...... Pluto ...... Buttress High Crag ...... Not . . . Laugh The Yellow Slab The Yellow Pinnacle Superdirect Troutdale 4 *** *** Sobrenada 4 *** Endurance *** *** 4 *** 4 *** *** DDT *** *** *** *** Samson *** *** Finale ...... *** Mithrandir 4 *** 4 *** ...... *** Aquarius 4 ...... *** Protus *** *** Illusion *** 4 *** Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω HVS Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Graded List Graded 85 29 82 85 77 82 110 118 311 108 108 107 195 128 169 131 419 169 150 131 375 364 250 230 357 379 223 245 280 434 227 359 266 305 222 340 ...... 1 41 119 376 312 196 192 158 333 231 295 267 341 Page Photo ...... p.298 - at ...... - ...... Lake DistrictLake Climbing ...... Woolly Jumper Woolly Pleasure Zone Pleasure Gormenghast Crack Razor Conclusion ...... Capella Gimmer String Central Buttress Central Slam Grand ...... Raindrop Knot Want Not, Waste Dedication Direct ...... Face Poker Edge The Red ...... / Dight . . . . . Tokyo Outside End Direct Whit's Night of the Hot Pies Route The Buttonhook Angel of Mercy The The Philistine ...... Pipeline . . . . . Banzai Mantis Praying Totalitarian ...... Groove Trespasser ...... The Bludgeon *** Megaton *** 4 4 ...... *** Leverage *** *** Arcturus *** 4 *** Columbia 4 *** *** ...... *** Catacomb *** *** *** Intern 4 *** 4 *** Aaros 4 *** 4 *** Panjandrum *** *** *** Nimrod *** 4 4 *** 4 ...... *** Aardvark *** ...... *** Imagine

New West Climb (VDiff) New West

Bridget Glaister high above a shadowy Gully on the exposed top slabs Western of Pillar Rock. Photo: Mark Glaister Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω

E1 46 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 90 79 69 58 62 66 116 176 212 218 162 180 187 192 130 132 149 152 120 102 258 262 269 279 232 208 229 202 200 Page Summary A lovely big and sunny mountain cliff. Appealing long classic climbs in the VDiff to VS grade band. A good spot if Scafell is wet or cold. in its worth a visit A high-level outcrop climbing on fantastic rock. Well own right or on the way to or from The Napes. A big crag with big routes high up on Great Gable. Old-school ridges and modern test pieces. Home of the famous Napes Needle. A decent crag with a short but steep approach. Can be a good alternative if the high crags are out. Good rock and strong lines. Premier mountain destination. Many superb climbs across the grades. Premier mountain destination. Many superb climbs across in condition. High and prone to bad weather but go nowhere else when A small granite quarry with a beautiful outlook. Not the greatest routes but worth a look. A popular series of granite buttresses close to the parking. Restricted Mar to Jun. classics. A towering wall of immaculate rock with many mountain location. Some good shorter lines on flanking walls and in a remote up its A wall of good but grubby rock with one Hard Rock classic Jun. cleanest section. Not far from the road. Restricted Mar to A long wall minutes from the top of the Hardknott Pass. All the routes A long wall minutes from the top of the Hardknott Pass. is spaced. are tough undertakings and protection on most of them to many of A cluster of granite crags close to the road. Unusual feel the routes with some steep cracks and bald slabs. A brilliant mountain crag with classic multi and single-pitch routes A brilliant mountain crag with classic multi and single-pitch crag. across the grades. A relatively short walk-in for a mountain in the E A remote wall of superb compact rock with testing pitches grades. Needs time to dry out and moss can be a problem. routes in the A wall of good rock packed with demanding single-pitch mid-to-upper E grades. A pleasant spot with a quick approach. to approach Good multi-pitch routes in the low-to-mid grades. Quick and close to an excellent pub and campsite. the A compact wall with some stiff routes. A short hike up from Mar to Jul. parking and in the sun from around lunchtime. Restricted Huge rambling crag with sections of good continuous rock. Multi-pitch Huge rambling crag with sections be mossy and needs time to dry. climbing on subtle lines. Can quality rock. Good short pitches that are Three separate crags of high easily reached from the Wrynose Pass. A slate quarry in with impressive single-pitch lines. Although bolted places, the routes require a confident approach. A massive slate quarry with an impressive wall. High quality and very serious pitches mostly in the mid-to-upper E grades. A series of impressive buttresses each with distinct character. Mostly each with distinct character. A series of impressive buttresses up and a long approach walk. multi-pitch on good rock. High Quality single-pitch climbs in the HVS to E3 grade band. Shady and Quality single-pitch climbs in only in condition during dry spells. Some routes gather moss. A tremendous mountain crag with outstanding climbs. Only an hour A tremendous mountain crag very Can get busy. walk-in and quick drying though it can be windy. A fine series of well drained buttresses just above the Old Dungeon A fine series of well drained all levels. Always busy. Ghyll pub. Something here for A big crag with lots of multi-pitch classics across the grades. Can be a across the grades. Can be a lots of multi-pitch classics A big crag with take time to dry. in places and some sections little vegetated A great multi-pitch venue that has both slabby and steep climbs to suit and steep climbs to suit venue that has both slabby A great multi-pitch sheltered. too far to walk and reasonably most tastes. Not A charming buttress just above Chapel Stile. Good spread of mainly spread of mainly Stile. Good just above Chapel buttress A charming grades. the low-to-mid routes in single-pitch full throughout the styles diverse climbing crags that offers A trio of with an easy approach. grade spectrum A short and quick-drying Only ten minutes buttress of excellent rock. the Sticklebarn pub. up the hill from pitch Multi- K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K tions Restric- C C C Seepage @ @ @ @ @ @ / Windy $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ * * * * * * * * * * * Sheltered Sheltered Sun } R { R R U R R } R } R Y Q Y R R E E E E E E E E E E W W Faded symbol means that only some of the routes suffer from seepage / are restricted / are multi-pitch / are restricted seepage / are from suffer routes some of the means that only symbol Faded 85 min 100 min 20 - 25 min 7 min 80 min 30 min 12 - 15 min 20 - 25 min 5 min 60 min 50 min 25 min 10 - 12 min 5 min 7 - 10 min 12 min 10 min 80 min 80 - 110 min 20 min 7 min 90 min 105 min 60 min 60 - 65 min 10 - 14 min 50 - 55 min 20 - 30 min 5 min Approach S S S D S S S D S D S S G S S S S S D D D D D D D S S D D ------1 4 3 1 3 5 2 7 3 9 9 6 6 2 3 1 4 4 2 88 13 E4 and up E4 - - 3 6 3 8 1 9 8 4 5 8 4 5 3 2 3 7 6 4 1 2 2 163 11 10 10 10 14 14 E1 to E3 to E1 - - - - - 7 6 4 1 5 2 9 2 5 8 3 2 3 7 4 7 9 205 11 10 13 12 13 15 47 HS to HVS to HS ------1 4 2 8 6 4 6 3 2 7 9 4 8 2 2 1 94 25 up to Sev to up 4 3 4 7 6 3 9 552 11 11 10 19 17 13 16 16 14 15 12 12 23 46 27 22 93 28 31 32 26 22 Routes TOTALS (BOOK TOTAL 979) (BOOK TOTAL

Destination Planner Destination

Buckbarrow Kern Knotts Kern Napes The Pikes Crag Pikes Scafell Esk Buttress Crag Heron Brantrake Crag Brantrake Bell Stand Hare Crags Hare Hardknott Crag Wallowbarrow Crag Wallowbarrow Crag Stonestar Far Hill Crag Far Crag Burnt Hodge Close QuarryHodge Close Crag Dow Pike o' Blisco o' Pike QuarryCathedral Shelter Crag Shelter Bowfell Neckband Crag Gimmer Crag Raven Crag Raven Pavey Ark Pavey Stickle Barn Crag Ghyll White Scout Crags Scout Raven Crag - Walthwaite - Crag Raven

Eskdale and Wasdale and Eskdale Coniston/Duddo Langdale n 48 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 411 417 314 317 380 384 392 398 402 408 427 432 436 444 449 452 459 462 470 288 306 324 327 334 342 348 352 353 370 378 300 Page Summary A fantastic (almost) roadside buttress of great rock with plenty of A fantastic (almost) roadside buttress of great rock with routes to suit all. Can remain damp after rain. a popular face of Wall, Showpiece lines in the high grades on Hell’s Face and a good pinnacle. easier routes on Woden’s but A beautiful location for a number of crags. Some good pitches make sure they are in condition before visiting. descent. A popular crag with lots of high quality pitches and an abseil Can be slow to dry. and a friendly A lovely hanging valley with one multi-pitch classic Diff wall of good single-pitch lines in the lower grades. swift access. A big mountain buttress with a Classic Rock tick. Fairly a slab. A reliable single-pitch cragging with routes for all, including Often A big shady wall with lots of high grade multi-pitch routes. dirty and slow to dry. impressive faces of good rock with hard routes in a picturesque Two location. one A large, low-level crag that has many extreme routes and adventurous VS. Can be dirty and slow to dry. The A brilliant crag. Good multi-pitch routes on the North Crag. South Crag is reliable, sunny and close to the parking. in the E Am outcrop of good rock with some testing pitches mainly grades. The A quiet two-tier crag with good routes in a gorgeous setting. bike. long walk-in can be shortened considerably on a mountain A massive mountain crag. Plenty of modern single-pitch routes in the upper extreme grades and a couple of adventurous older classics. A fine wall of rock tucked away up a little visited valley with some classy routes in the E2 to E7 range. An outlier on the far east fringe of the National Park. Good climbs to suit all and easy to access from the M6. Reasonable single- An impressive crag at the head of a remote valley. pitch routes and one multi-pitch line up an unusual feature. A vast and complex mountain crag with long multi-pitch routes. A routes. with long multi-pitch crag complex mountain A vast and routes are magnificent. but the best be dirty, and can long approach is The centrepiece of Ennerdale. at the head shady location A sombre weather venue only. with long cracks. A good a wall of fine rock rock. Limited amount with fine climbing on excellent Compact crag so prone to poor weather. but deep in the mountains of sun. Not high routes. Much of the face with intimidating looking A hulking buttress are fine expeditions. but the cleaner lines has become vegetated, dries quickly and is clean. of really good rock that Sunny buttresses to give a long day out. that can be linked together Classic climbs quality rock. Sunny and close to single-pitch lines on variable Tough the road. multi-pitch routes which require an A big crag with some unusual Sunny and close to the parking. experienced leader. crag that has 'big' feeling routes both Great climbing on the lower The rock takes a bit of getting used to. single-pitch and multi-pitch. for the climber operating in the E A high quality single-pitch venue grades with a veryquick approach. with some challenging pitches. Sunny A small crag of good rock and and dries very quickly. with one well travelled multi-pitch route. A big buttress at a low level routes of all grades and styles. Easy Four buttresses spread with Cafe under the crag. access and quick drying but very busy. venue with lots of routes including A large low-level multi-pitch several classics. Very popular at weekends and holidays. been A big vegetated face with a couple of extremes that have cleaned up in recent times. Low down but shady. pitch Multi- K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K tions Restric- C C C C Seepage @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ / Windy $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ * * * * * * * * * * * Sheltered Sheltered Sun R R { R } R R T R R R T R R R R R { Q U U Q E E E W W W W W W Faded symbol means that only some of the routes suffer from seepage / are restricted / are multi-pitch / are restricted seepage / are from suffer routes some of the means that only symbol Faded 10 min 20 min 75 min 30 - 35 min 30 min 15 min 10 - 20 min 5 min 20 min 14 min 15 - 20 min 20 min 20 min 20 - 60 min 50 min 35 - 45 min 20 min 40 - 45 min 90 min 15 min 75 min 50 min 16 min 4 min 4 - 20 min 45 min 35 min 120 - 150 min 120 - 150 45 min 75 min 85 - 95 min Approach D S S S D D S S D S S S F S S S S D D S S S D S D S D S D D D ------6 3 6 5 4 1 3 3 1 1 8 1 2 3 7 1 1 71 15 E4 and up E4 - - - - 3 5 4 2 3 6 1 5 9 8 4 1 2 4 6 1 8 4 5 4 5 1 154 11 11 11 18 12 E1 to E3 to E1 ------1 8 1 3 6 3 3 5 2 9 1 6 4 7 5 4 3 8 1 8 3 1 6 134 12 24 HS to HVS to HS ------4 1 9 1 5 3 1 1 4 1 1 8 2 5 60 14 up to Sev to up 9 8 5 1 8 9 8 1 2 7 8 2 5 3 10 10 14 12 12 18 15 15 18 424 20 23 22 59 25 25 28 22 Routes TOTALS (BOOK TOTAL 979) (BOOK TOTAL

Destination Planner Destination

Buckbarrow Crag Buckbarrow Raven Crag - Threshthwaite - Crag Raven Gouther Crag Eagle Crag - Grisedale Eagle Crag Crag Dove Castle Rock of Triermain Rock of Castle Crag Swirl Lower Iron Crag Iron Thirlmere - Crag Raven Gillercombe Buttress Gillercombe Knotts Steel Goat Crag Sergeant Crag Slabs Crag Sergeant Gill Combe Bowderstone Crags Bowderstone Valley Langstrath Great End Crag Great Buttress Quayfoot Shepherd's Crag Shepherd's Black Crag Reecastle Crag Goats Crag Crag Gowder Buckstone How Buckstone Crags Falcon Grey Crag Knotts Crag Yew HighCrag Eagle Crag Pillar Rock Pillar Gable Crag

Eastern Fells Eastern Borrowdale Ennerdale/Buttermere 50 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells