The Best of Ireland

Home , Ballycotton, Ballydesmond, Ballygar, Beara Peninsula, Benbaun, Bog of Allen

1 The Best of Ireland

For visitors, Ireland is an ideal country to traverse, and with its varied and extensive offerings within a compact frame, it’s visually addictive. Within a few miles, you can travel from rugged coastline to smooth pastureland to towering mountains to gloomy peat bog. You can spend the night in ancient castles or modern spa hotels, dine on fine Irish cuisine or snack on fish and chips. The sheer number of sights, villages, charming pubs, and adorable restaurants and shops is overwhelming—you always feel that you might be missing something. The country’s varied offerings can be a bit daz- zling, so it’s nice to have somebody help you focus. That’s why we’ve put together this list of some of our favorite places and things in Ireland. We hope that while you’re here, you’ll find a few of your own.

1 THE BEST PICTUREPOSTCARD TOWNS

• Dalkey (County Dublin): The cutest of • Kinsale (County Cork): Kinsale’s nar- a string of upscale seaside towns in row streets all lead to the sea, dropping suburban Dublin nicknamed “Bel Eire” steeply from the hills around the har- for their wealth, beauty, and density of bor, although the crowds of visitors celebrity residents, Dalkey is both a teeming on the sidewalks every summer short drive and a million miles away attest to the fact that the Kinsale secret from the busy city. With a castle, a is out. The walk from Kinsale through mountaintop folly, lovely beaches and Scilly to Charles Fort and Frower Point some fine restaurants, this is a town that is breathtaking. Kinsale has the added tempts you to settle into its comfortable benefit of being a foodie town, with no affluence. See chapter 6. shortage of good restaurants. See chap- • Carlingford (County Louth): The ter 9. ancient name for this gorgeous little • Dingle/An Daingean (County Kerry): town is Cuan Aighneach, which means Dingle is a charming hilltop medieval “Haven of the People with the Perfect town. Its stone buildings ramble up and Reputation.” With its castle ruins over- down hills, and its small population is looking the glassy lough, and pedestrian- relaxed about visitors. It has lots of little friendly lanes filled with colorful shops, diners and picturesque pubs, and a cafes, and pubs, this place tends to live lovely, historic church. See chapter 10. up to its COPYRIGHTEDreputation. See chapter 7. • Kenmare MATERIAL (County Kerry): It’s easy to • Inistioge (County Kilkenny): Nestled in fall in love with Kenmare, with its stone the Nore River Valley, surrounded by cottages, colorful gardens, and flowers undulating hills, this riverfront village overflowing from window boxes. It’s with two spacious greens and a host of also home to several elegant hotels, so pubs cries out to be photographed. Its makes an enchanting base when explor- rivers and lakes are swimming with fish ing the Ring of Kerry. See chapter 10. and attract hosts of anglers. See chapter 8. 2 Ireland a S y d s l r r D d E r u o r e s f L a N k f g n c s n a i i s A A s H n t r

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e K Kerry Head n t N u g c . n n T n i n s B t I D Dingle Peninsula e a

e s ﬁ l u o a e l d h D Dingle Bay A y t l e k s a d g o a C Castetownbere s B r i i e v N . e n l g h i b I s a a l n

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a e i l B Brandon Pt. k t e i i h s a o e C Dursey I. D k P D Dingle n g i n n h

r r I a s n l i I t L l c i a i C a C Cahirsiveen G Great l u n l e b g g l A OCEAN O i i m y q e a Blasket I. B l l a T t l l l S Sybil Pt. n h r B Ballinskelligs a e e c u o i V Valentia I. Valentia A ATLANTIC k k P Portmagee D Dunquin S S Skellig

M Michael . l t L Ltl. Skellig 4 • Athlone (County Westmeath): Sitting the tiny town of Ardara looks as if it at the edge of the River Shannon, its were carved out of a solid block of gran- streets curving around a sturdy, fortress- ite. Its streets undulate up and down like castle, Athlone is a charmer. Houses the rocky hills, and are lined with little are painted in bright hues, and with its boutiques and charming arts shops, small, funky boutiques and spirit of many selling clothes made of the famed fun, it has the feel of a busy university Donegal wool. You can wander its town. Good restaurants and lively pubs entirety in a few minutes. It’s a bite-size add to its charms. See chapter 12. place. See chapter 14. • Ardara (County Donegal): On the southwest coast of County Donegal,

2 THE BEST NATURAL WONDERS

• MacGillycuddy’s Reeks (County height of 214m (702 ft.) just north of Kerry): A mountain range on the Iver- O’Brien’s Tower. The views of the open agh Peninsula, MacGillycuddy’s Reeks sea, of the Aran Islands, and of the not only has the best name of any Twelve Bens mountains of Connemara THE BEST OF IRELAND OF BEST THE mountain range in Ireland, but also the (see below) are spectacular. A walk south 1 highest mountain on the island, Car- along the cliff edge at sunset makes a rantuohill (1,041m/3,414 ft.). The perfect end to any day. See p. 390. Reeks are among Ireland’s greatest spec- • The Twelve Bens (County Galway): tacles. See p. 326. Amid Connemara’s central mountains, • The Slieve Bloom Way (County bogs, and lakes, the rugged Twelve Bens Laois): Slieve Bloom, Ireland’s largest range crowns a spectacular landscape. and most unspoiled blanket bog, rises Some of the peaks are bare and rocky, gently above the peat fields. Its beauty— others clothed in peat. The loftiest, gentle slopes, glens, rivers, waterfalls, Benbaun, in Connemara National Park, and bog lands—is subtle but persistent, reaches a height of 719m (2,395 ft.). and it is comparatively untouched. You See p. 419. can have it more or less to yourself, • Croagh Patrick (County Mayo): Ris- apart from its deer and foxes, and an ing steeply 750m (2,460 ft.) above the THE BEST NATURAL WONDERS NATURAL BEST THE occasional frolicking otter. See p. 380. coast, Croagh Patrick is seen as a holy • The Burren (County Clare): We can mountain, where the saint is said to guarantee this: The Burren is one of the have retreated in penance. Traditionally, strangest landscapes you’re likely to see. barefoot pilgrims climb it the last Sun- Its vast limestone grassland is spread day of July, but in recent years, hun- with a quilt of wildflowers from as far dreds of Nike-shod tourists have been afield as the Alps, all softening the stark making the ascent daily. The view from stones jutting out of the ground. Its above can be breathtaking or nonexis- inhabitants include nearly every species tent—the summit is often wrapped in of butterfly found in Ireland. See clouds. See p. 438. p. 386. • Slieve League (County Donegal): The • Cliffs of Moher (County Clare): Rising Slieve League peninsula stretches for from Hag’s Head to the south, these 48km (30 miles) into the Atlantic. Its magnificent sea cliffs reach their full wonderfully pigmented bluffs rise to startlingly high sea cliffs. They can also are nothing short of astonishing. This 5 be walked along, if you dare. See p. 475. volcanic wonder, formed 60 million • Giant’s Causeway (County Antrim): At years ago, looks marvelous from above, the foot of a cliff by the sea, this mysteri- even better when negotiated (cautiously) ous mass of dark, tightly packed, natu- on foot. See p. 532. rally occurring hexagonal basalt columns

3 THE BEST CASTLES

• Trim Castle (County Meath): Trim, that wind through the castle gardens. also called King John’s Castle, restored Need we mention the Blarney Stone? THE BEST OF IRELAND as a “preserved ruin,” is a massive You sidle in under the upper wall with Anglo-Norman structure. It was all but your head hanging over a 10-story impregnable for 4 centuries (late 12th drop. You kiss it. It’s a thing people do. to mid-17th c.). Until it was abandoned See p. 272. and collapsed in the 17th century, it • Bunratty Castle and Folk Park never underwent any significant altera- (County Clare): This grand old castle tion. For anyone with imagination, has been well restored and filled with a Trim is a visual gateway into medieval curious assortment of medieval furnish- Ireland. See p. 215. ings, offering a glimpse into the life of • Cahir Castle (County Tipperary): One its past inhabitants. This is the first stop 1

of the largest of Ireland’s medieval for- for many arrivals from Shannon, so THE BEST CASTLES tresses, this castle is in an extraordinary expect crowds. See p. 374. state of preservation. Tours explain • Doe Castle (County Donegal): This some fascinating features of the military picturesque tower house is surrounded architecture, and then you’re free to on three sides by the waters of Sheep roam through a maze of tiny chambers, Haven Bay and on the fourth by a moat spiral staircases, and dizzying battle- carved into the bedrock that forms its ments. See p. 352. foundation. It has a remote waterfront • Kilkenny Castle (County Kilkenny): setting and sweeping views of the Although parts of the castle date from nearby hills. See p. 480. the 13th century, the existing structure • Carrickfergus Castle (County Ant- has the feel of an 18th-century palace. rim): This well-preserved Norman for- There have been many modifications tress on the bank of Belfast Lough is since medieval times, including the huge and impressive, with an imposing addition of colorful landscaping, and tower house and a high wall punctuated the old stables now hold numerous art by corner towers. See p. 520. galleries and shops. See p. 250. • Dunluce Castle (County Antrim): • Blarney Castle (County Cork): Despite These castle ruins surmount a razor- the mobs of tourists who besiege it sharp promontory jutting into the sea. daily, this majestic tower house is worth This was a highly defensible setting, a visit. While you’re there, check out the and the castle wasn’t abandoned until a Badger Cave and dungeons at the tow- large section collapsed and fell into the er’s base, as well as the serpentine paths breakers. See p. 531. 6 4 THE BEST OF ANCIENT IRELAND

• Hill of Tara (County Meath): Of ritual to come in the off season, when you can significance from the Stone Age to the borrow a key and make your own imagi- Christian period, Tara has seen it all native reconstruction. See p. 214. and kept it all a secret. This was the • Lough Gur (County Limerick): This traditional center and seat of Ireland’s lakefront site will convince you that the high kings. Although the hill is only Neolithic farmers of Ireland had an 154m (512 ft.) above sea level, from estimable sense of real estate. Inhabited here you can see each of Ireland’s four for more than 4,000 years, the ancient Celtic provinces on a clear day. The site farming settlement offers a number of is mostly unexcavated and tells its story prehistoric remains. The most impres- in whispers. It’s a place to be walked sive of these is the largest surviving slowly. See p. 212. stone circle in Ireland, made up of 113 • Newgrange (County Meath): One of stones. See p. 367. the archaeological wonders of western • Dún Aengus (County Galway): No Europe, Newgrange is the centerpiece one knows who built this massive stone of a megalithic cemetery dating back fort, or when. The eminent archaeolo- THE BEST OF IRELAND OF BEST THE 5,000 years. Its massive mound and gist George Petrie called Dún Aengus passage tomb are amazing feats of engi- “the most magnificent barbaric monu- 1 neering. But the question remains: ment in Europe.” Facing the sea, where what was it all for? See p. 214. its three stone rings meet steep 90m • Loughcrew (County Meath): At this lit- (295-ft.) cliffs, Dún Aengus still stands tle-known site, not far from Newgrange, a guard today over the southern coast of series of cruciform passage tombs crown the island of Inishmore, the largest of two hills. Guided tours of the cairns are the Aran Islands. See p. 415. offered during the summer, but we prefer

Value Save Money: Buy a Heritage Card

The Heritage Card is a pass that allows you free entry to almost all historic sites owned or managed by the Irish government. Given that these include some of THE BEST OF ANCIENT IRELAND ANCIENT OF BEST THE the country’s most popular attractions, it can be a real saving. The card costs €21 for adults, €16 for seniors, €8 for children and €55 for families. You can buy them at any of the site ticket offices, or at www.heritageireland.ie. Dozens of sights listed in this book take Heritage Cards, including: Augh- nanure Castle (p. 418); the Blasket Centre (p. 335); Carrowmore Megalithic Ceme- tery (p. 453); Céide Fields (p. 439); Charles Fort (p. 279); Clonmacnoise (p. 430); Dublin Castle (p. 144); Fota House (p. 288); Glendalough (p. 191); Glenveagh National Park (p. 481); the Hill of Tara (p. 212); The Iveagh Gardens; Jerpoint Abbey (p. 253); the John F Kennedy Arboretum (p. 229); Kilmainham Gaol (p. 146); Kilkenny Castle (p. 250); Muckross House (p. 319); the National Botanic Gardens (p. 184); the Rock of Cashel (p. 352); and Trim Castle (p. 215). • Carrowmore and Carrowkeel (County • Navan Fort (County Antrim): There is 7 Sligo): These two megalithic cities of the no longer much remaining here to dead (Europe’s largest) may have once reflect the great past of this fort, though contained more than 200 passage tombs. it was once the ritual and royal seat of The two together—one in the valley and Ulster. Thankfully, the interpretive cen- the other atop a nearby mountain—con- ter here is nothing short of remarkable, vey an unequaled sense of the scale and and it offers a great introduction to the wonder of the ancient peoples’ reverence myth and archaeology of the fort, for the dead. Carrowmore is well pre- known in Irish as Emain Macha. See sented and interpreted, while Carrow- p. 529. keel is left to itself and to those who seek it out. See p. 453. THE BEST OF IRELAND

5 THE BEST EARLY CHRISTIAN RUINS

• Glendalough (County Wicklow): Nes- dot the Irish landscape. Somehow, hun- tled in “the glen of the two lakes,” this dreds of years of rain and wind have atmospheric monastic settlement was failed to completely wipe away medi- founded in the 6th century by St. eval carvings, leaving us a rare chance Kevin, who was looking for seclusion for a glimpse of how magnificent these and certainly found it here. The setting abbeys once were. The splendid, richly 1

is endlessly scenic, with lakes and for- carved cloister is the best place to spot THE BEST EARLY CHRISTIAN RUINS ests surrounding it. Although quite the carvings, particularly at the top of remote, Glendalough suffered assaults the many columns. See p. 253. from the Vikings and English forces, • Skellig Michael (County Kerry): Thir- and eventually faded away. Today its teen kilometers (8 miles) offshore of the stone ruins collude with the country- Iveragh Peninsula, rising sharply 214m side to create one of the loveliest spots (702 ft.) out of the Atlantic, this is a in Ireland. See p. 191. remote rocky crag dedicated to the • The Rock of Cashel (County Tipper- archangel Michael. In flight from the ary): In name and appearance, “the world, early Irish monks in pursuit of Rock” suggests a citadel, a place “white martyrdom” chose this spot to designed more for power than prayer. build their austere hermitage. Today the In fact, Cashel (or Caiseal) means “for- journey to Skellig, across choppy seas, tress.” The rock is a huge outcrop- and the arduous climb to its summit are ping—or an upcropping—of limestone challenging and unforgettable. See topped with spectacularly beautiful “The Skellig Islands” under “The Iver- ruins, including what was formerly the agh Peninsula” in chapter 10. country’s finest Romanesque chapel. • Clonmacnoise (County Offaly): This This was the seat of clerics and kings, a was once one of Ireland’s most impor- power center to rival Tara. Now, how- tant religious, artistic, and literary cen- ever, the two sites vie only for the atten- ters, a place of pilgrimage and culture. tion of tourists. See p. 352. Founded in the mid–5th century at the • Jerpoint Abbey (County Kilkenny): axis of the River Shannon and the Jerpoint is the finest representative of medieval east-west thoroughfare known the many Cistercian abbeys whose ruins as the Eiscir Riada, Clonmacnoise 8 thrived for centuries until its prime stone fort. Despite its remoteness, the riverfront location brought repeated Vikings sought out this outpost of violent raids that proved its undoing. peace-seeking monks for destruction in Even in ruins, Clonmacnoise remains a a.d. 807. Today its circular walls and place of peculiar serenity. See p. 430. the surrounding sea create a stunning • Inishmurray (County Sligo): This view, well worth the effort required to uninhabited island off the Sligo coast reach it. See “Exploring the Surround- holds another striking monastic ruin, ing Countryside” under “Sligo & Yeats this one surrounded by what appears to Country” in chapter 13. be the walls of an even more ancient

6 THE BEST LITERARY SPOTS

• Dublin Writers Museum: With Joyce’s • James Joyce Museum: At the edge of typewriter, handwritten letters from the sea in the Dublin suburb of Sandy- Brendan Behan to friends back home, cove, this Martel tower was home to and early flyers from the Abbey Theatre Joyce for a short time, but he based a when it was run by Lady Gregory and character on his host, Oliver St. John THE BEST OF IRELAND OF BEST THE Yeats, this museum is heaven for book- Gogarty, described in Ulysses perfectly 1 ish types. You can spend hours reading as “stately, plump Buck Mulligan.” The the memorabilia and marveling at the museum was opened in 1962, and its trivia. See p. 145. interior has been restored to look as it • Glasnevin Cemetery (County Dublin): did when Joyce was here, along with Besides being the setting for part of plenty of memorabilia, including Joyce’s Ulysses, this is the resting place of James walking stick and guitar. See p. 180. Joyce’s parents and other members of his • St. Patrick’s Cathedral (County Dub- family. The English-born poet Gerard lin): Jonathan Swift tickled and horri- Manley Hopkins is buried here, in the fied the world with his vicious wit. He Jesuit plot. Maud Gonne, the Irish shook up political establishments with nationalist and longtime Dublin resident his sarcasm, and nauseated the English- who is said to have inspired Yeats’s play speaking world with his suggestion that THE BEST LITERARY SPOTS LITERARY BEST THE Cathleen ní Houlihan, is buried in the people should dine on Irish babies. Republican plot. The writer, drinker, While kicking up such a stir, he was and Irish Republican Brendan Behan is dean of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, which also buried here. See p. 152. sponsored and supported him through • Davy Byrnes Pub: In Ulysses Joyce it all. He is buried here alongside his describes the main character, Leopold longtime companion, Stella. See p. 147. Bloom, stopping in at this Dublin pub • County Sligo: With its many connec- for a Gorgonzola sandwich and a glass tions to the beloved poet W. B. Yeats, of burgundy. “He raised his eyes and this county is a pilgrimage destination met the stare of a bilious clock. Two. for Yeats fans. The poet’s writing was Pub clock five minutes fast. Time going shaped by the landscape and people in on. Hands moving. Two. Not yet.” this farming region, and many of its Today the clock is said to be kept 5 monuments—including Lough Gill, minutes fast, in honor of Bloom and Glencar Lake, Ben Bulben Mountain, Joyce. See p. 171. and Maeve’s tomb—appear in his poetry. There are also several museums somber grave is in Drumcliff. See chap- 9 housing first editions, photographs, and ter 13. other memorabilia, and Yeats’s dark and

7 THE BEST GARDENS

• Powerscourt Gardens (County Wick- with the Casita at its center, is linked to low): This grandiose Irish garden is set a “wild garden” that showcases a collec- amid the natural splendor of the Wick- tion of rhododendrons, azaleas, and rare low Hills just outside of Dublin. The trees. See p. 292. sprawling, manicured gardens and the • Glenveagh National Park (County THE BEST OF IRELAND wild beauty of the Powerscourt water- Donegal): A castle and its gardens fall make this a great day’s outing, and a stretch across a strangely barren valley respite from the noise and congestion of high in the hills of Donegal, along the the city. See p. 193. banks of Lough Veagh. The sprawling • Japanese Gardens (County Kildare): park contains a grand statuary garden, a On the grounds of the National Stud, walled garden, and a rhododendron- this peaceful enclave is based on the lined path that leads to a stunning view traditional designs of Japanese gardens. of the castle and lake. See p. 481. A Japanese specialist planned the struc- • Mount Stewart House Gardens 1 ture and its symbolism, and most of the (County Down): Built upon an elabo-

plants and stones were imported from rate plan, the Mount Stewart house has THE BEST FAMILY ACTIVITIES Japan. See p. 206. several gardens of distinctive character. • Ilnacullin (County Cork): A ferry con- The Ards Peninsula provides a climate veys visitors from a rhododendron- conducive to cultivating many sub- framed bay in the town of Glengarriff to tropical species. The statuary, topiary, Garinish Island, the unlikely site of a fine and planting designs reflect a touch of Italianate garden. The formal garden, whimsy. See p. 523.

8 THE BEST FAMILY ACTIVITIES

• Dublin Zoo in the Phoenix Park • Fota Island Wildlife Park (County (Dublin): Kids love this sympathetically Cork): In this wildlife park, rare and designed zoo, with its wild creatures, endangered animals roam freely. You’ll animal-petting corners, and train ride. see everything from giraffes and zebras The surrounding park has room to run, to kangaroos, flamingos, penguins, and picnic, and explore. See p. 158. monkeys wandering the grassland. Add • Irish National Heritage Park (County in a small amusement park for toddlers, Wexford): Nearly 9,000 years of Irish a tour train, picnic tables, and a gift history come alive here in ways that will shop and you have the makings of a fascinate visitors of all ages. The whole wonderful family outing. See p. 288. family will be captivated by the story of • Muckross House and Gardens (Killar- ancient Ireland, from its first inhabit- ney, County Kerry): This huge Victo- ants to its Norman conquerors. See rian mansion with its exquisite gardens p. 224. is also home to skilled artisans at work. 10 Nearby are a series of reconstructed • Bunratty Castle and Folk Park traditional farms, with animals and (County Clare): Kids are enthralled by docents, providing a gateway to rural this well-restored medieval castle and Ireland as it was for centuries. See re-created 19th-century village. It’s p. 319. complete with a school and loaded with • Fungie the Dolphin Tours (Dingle, active craftspeople. See p. 374. County Kerry): Every day, fishing boats • Marble Arch Caves (Marlbank, ferry visitors out into the nearby waters County Fermanagh): Adventurous fam- to see Fungie, the friendliest dolphin ilies are guided by boat through well-lit you’re ever likely to meet. Fungie swims underground waterways to explore right up to the boat, and the boatmen caves and view amazing stone forma- stay out long enough for ample sight- tions. See p. 567. ings. You can also arrange an early morning dolphin swim. See p. 335.

9 THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS

• Sailing Ireland’s West Coast: Spectac- • Bicycling in the Southwest: The pen- THE BEST OF IRELAND OF BEST THE ular coastal scenery, interesting harbor insulas and islands of Cork and Kerry towns, and an abundance of islands are perfect for cycling, with an abun- 1 make the west coast a delight for cruis- dance of beautiful places to visit. Roy- ing sailors. See “Sailing,” in chapter 5. croft’s Stores in Skibbereen, County • Horseback Riding in Donegal: The Cork, rent bikes that are a notch above wild and woolly coast of Donegal offers the usual rental equipment. See the the perfect scenic backdrop for trail rid- “Sports & Outdoor Pursuits” sections ing, and as varied a terrain—beaches, in chapters 9 and 10. countryside, mountains—as you’ll find • Walking the Donegal Coast: The rug- anywhere. See chapter 14. ged headlands of Donegal are the most • Sea Kayaking in West Cork: In Castle- spectacular in Ireland, and the best way townbere on the dramatic, rugged to explore them is on foot. Among the Beara Peninsula, Sea Kayaking West finest walks are Slieve League, Malin Cork specializes in accompanied trips Head, and Horn Head. See “The out and around Bere Island and as far as Donegal Bay Coast,” in chapter 14. Glengarriff. You can play it as safe or as rough as you want. See p. 296. THE BEST LUXURY ACCOMMODATIONS LUXURY BEST THE

10 THE BEST LUXURY ACCOMMODATIONS

• The Clarence (Dublin; & 01/407- helpful staff. The Octagon Bar is a 0800; www.theclarence.ie): Owned by relaxing hangout, while the Tea Room members of the band U2, the Clarence restaurant is one of the best eateries in is a perfect mixture of sleek sophistica- town. The new spa will pummel and tion and coolness. Everything here is facial you into relaxation, while the staff designed for subtle elegance, from the members hurry off to find your favorite soft, neutral color schemes, to the luxu- red wine. Staying here is a real treat. See rious bed linens and huge beds, to the p. 118. • Park Hotel Kenmare (County Kerry; hallways are filled with heirlooms, and 11 & 800/323-5463 in the U.S., or 6644- the walls are decorated with Raymond 1200; www.parkkenmare.com): In a Piper’s mural paintings of the Burren. palm-tree-lined garden beside Kenmare Guest rooms are spacious and elegantly Bay, this imposing 19th-century hotel is decorated in muted colors with antique grand and luxurious. In the high-ceil- pieces, and all have expansive views of inged sitting rooms, fires crackle in the the spectacular countryside. Dinners open fireplaces, oil paintings decorate here are outstanding, and eating in is the walls, and there’s a full set of armor worth every penny. See p. 388. at the top of the grand staircase sur- • Delphi Lodge (County Galway; & 095/ rounded by tapestries and rare antiques. 42222; www.delphilodge.ie): This was Guest rooms have Georgian and Victo- once the country hideaway for the mar- THE BEST OF IRELAND rian furnishings and peaceful water- quis of Sligo, and now it can be yours. front or mountain views. The Inside, the emphasis is on clean, bright guest-only, in-house spa is extraordi- simplicity and perfect taste; the grounds nary. See p. 312. and environs are spectacular. “Tranquil- • Gregans Castle Hotel (County Clare; lity,” “comfort,” and, well, “fishing” are & 800/323-5463 in the U.S., or the operative words here. You will want 065/707-7005; www.gregans.ie): Not a to stay longer than you’d planned—and castle at all, but an ivy-covered, stone by renting one of the cottages for a manor house, this small, family run week or more, you can make the indul- 1 hotel is filled with light, and it has gence more affordable. See p. 426.

lovely views of the Burren and Galway THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMODATIONS Bay. The drawing room and expansive

11 THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMODATIONS

• Moy House (County Clare; & 065/ at the edge of the sea, overlooking the 708-2800; www.moyhouse.com): This cliffs across the bay. This cozy retreat is an unusual 19th-century tower house atop ideal place to stay for those exploring Ire- a hill overlooking the sea is beautiful land’s wild west coast. Owners Elizabeth inside and out. Rooms have comfort- and John Barrett are charming hosts who able, modern beds covered in crisp Irish greet you with fresh scones and will cook linens, and are decorated with original you a delightful dinner if you wish. The paintings and period antiques. Bath- house is a former coast guard station—as rooms are beautifully designed to com- solid as a rock, and as comforting as a bine modern conveniences with the security blanket. This is one of our favor- building’s old architecture (a glass panel ite places in Ireland. See p. 445. in one room provides a look down into • Temple House (County Sligo; & 071/ an old well). Downstairs, the small, 918-3329; www.templehouse.ie): Not attractive dining room serves up excel- a hotel, yet not quite like any other lent food and has a sea view. It’s a snug, B&B we’ve stayed in, Roderick and warm, friendly place to visit. See p. 393. Helena Perceval’s grand Victorian • The Bervie (County Mayo; & 098/ manor house is an extraordinary place 43114; www.bervieachill.com): Views where ceilings soar to the stratosphere, really don’t get any better than this—right marble stays solidly underfoot, and the 12 family’s working farm stretches out for the mirrorlike waters of Lough Swilly. miles around you. A Templar castle lies Rooms are big and beautifully detailed, in ruins on the banks of their lake. To with a soft color scheme, claw-foot tubs, spend a few days here is to experience a and private patios. There are half a dozen different world. See p. 456. drawing rooms in which you can relax • Rathmullan House (County Donegal; on big leather sofas by open fires. The & 800/223-6510 in the U.S., or 074/ staff is friendly and open, and the atmo- 915-8188 in Ireland; www.rathmullan sphere is one of pure rural rest and house.com): This getaway lies at the end relaxation. See p. 483. of a long private drive on the banks of

12 THE BEST BUDGET ACCOMMODATIONS

• Abbott Lodge (Dublin; & 01/836- place with a private beach for under 5548; www.abbott-lodge.com). This is €100 per night. Views of Tralee Bay one of Dublin’s most popular guest- from this guesthouse are stunning, houses, with simple, well-kept rooms, especially on a sunny day. Bedrooms are many of which have high ceilings or comfortable and well designed, and the THE BEST OF IRELAND OF BEST THE architectural details like original cor- breakfast menu will give you a good nices. A genuinely friendly staff will fill start to your day. See p. 346. 1 you in on the neighborhood’s offerings, • An Bohreen (County Waterford; including the best pubs and restaurants & 051/291010): This cozy B&B in nearby. A full Irish breakfast is included Dungarven has attractive bedrooms and in the rates. See p. 126. a roaring fire to welcome guests on cold • The Bastion (County Westmeath; days. Best of all, however, is the superb & 090/649-4954; www.thebastion. food; there’s really no need to search net): This simple and peaceful guest- around for a restaurant while you’re house in the heart of colorful Athlone is staying here. See p. 245. a find. Run by brothers Vinny and • Wicklow Way Lodge (County Wick- Anthony McCay, it has a minimalist low; & 01/281-8489): Set on a peace- approach, with clean white walls and ful farm with sweeping views of the crisp white linens contrasted with dark surrounding countryside, this is one of polished wood. The big, rambling those places that you can’t quite believe house is comfortable, friendly, and per- you’ve found for the money. Hosts Sea- fectly located for touring Athlone, or as mus and Marilyn Kinlan could hardly THE BEST BUDGET ACCOMMODATIONS BUDGET BEST THE a base for exploring the surrounding make their guests feel more welcome. countryside. See p. 433. See p. 202. • Devondell (County Galway; & 091/ • Tara Lodge (Belfast; & 028/9059- 528306): Definitely one of the best 0900): This stylish, comfortable little value places to stay in Galway Town, boutique hotel is an excellent find in this elegant little B&B sits in an upscale Belfast, a city not known for the quality residential district a short walk from the of its budget accommodations. Rooms sea. Breakfasts here are something else. are comfortable and well-designed. Try See p. 405. the homemade porridge at breakfast— • The Shores (County Kerry; & 066/ it’s practically legendary. See p. 514. 713-9196): It’s not often you find a 13 13 THE BEST RESTAURANTS

• L’Gueuleton (Dublin; & 01/675- waiter can tell you exactly who caught 3708): This place is worth the effort your dinner. See p. 285. you’ll have to put in to book a table well • The Wild Geese (County Limerick; in advance. The cozy dining room is all & 061/396451): After spending years candlelight, exposed brick walls, flag- making other people’s restaurants fabu- stone floors, polished wood beams, and lous, owner-chef David Foley created a Prada-clad clientele. It’s an elegant gem of his own in Limerick. The cook- Irish-French bistro. The menu changes ing is complex, exquisitely flavorful, constantly, but includes warming and refined. See p. 369. THE BEST OF IRELAND options such as whole roast sea bass • Cromleach Lodge (County Sligo; with new potatoes and chive beurre & 071/916-5155): In this lovely coun- blanc, or venison casserole with juniper try house with panoramic views of and organic root vegetables. See p. 134. Lough Arrow and environs, Christy and • Chapter One (Dublin; & 01/873- Moira Tighe have created a culinary 2266): Arguably the city’s most atmo- destination with few peers. The menu, spheric restaurant, this remarkable Irish in focus, changes daily. The eight- eatery fills the vaulted basement space course gourmet menu is the ultimate of the Dublin Writers Museum. Art- indulgence. See p. 455. fully lighted and tastefully decorated, it • James Street South (Belfast; & 028/ 1

offers a menu with local, organic ingre- 9043-4310; www.jamesstreetsouth. THE BEST PUBS dients, all cleverly used in dishes like co.uk): This fashionable place in Belfast the ravioli with Irish goat cheese and is a hit because of the terrific cooking, warm asparagus. Fabulous! See p. 139. which delivers modern classics with an • The Chart House (County Kerry; Irish twist. The lamb is always excellent, & 066/915-2255): In this inviting and shouldn’t be missed. Portions are bistro, everyone comes for Laura generous, the wine list very good, the Boyce’s confident, simple cooking. crowd rapturous. See p. 516. Think wonderful comfort food with a • The Narrows (County Down; & 028/ flair—the kind of food you never tire 4272-8148): Who’d have thought that of. And the service is, as the Irish would the sleepy little waterside hamlet of say, “spot on.” See p. 340. Portaferry would have a restaurant like • Fishy Fishy Café (County Cork this? Danny Millar is one of the hottest & 021/470-0415): This superfriendly young chefs on this island—just ask little restaurant is the place to go for Food & Wine magazine—and his com- lunch in Kinsale. No reservations, no plex, yet earthy, cooking is worth going fuss, just perfectly prepared seafood, out of your way for. See p. 525. sourced locally. Really locally. As in, the

14 THE BEST PUBS

• Brazen Head (Dublin): Nearly qualify- stout is as fresh as it comes. Among its ing as one of Ireland’s ancient sites, the illustrious alumni are Wolfe Tone, Dan- Brazen Head, commissioned by Charles iel O’Connell, and Robert Emmet, who II, is more than 300 years old, but its planned the Dublin rising of 1803 14 under the Head’s low timbers. See impromptu sessions of Irish music. Gus p. 173. O’Connor’s, down the road, is more • Abbey Tavern (Dublin): A short dis- famous (but also thicker with tourists); tance from Dublin center, the Abbey McGann’s remains the genuine article Tavern is the perfect place to recover without the hype. See p. 395. and refuel after spending a day explor- • Moran’s Oyster Cottage (County Gal- ing Dublin. The Abbey is known far way): Famed for its seafood, this centu- and wide for its ballads as well as its ries-old thatched-cottage pub on the brew. See p. 176. weir also draws a perfect pint. This may • The Long Valley (County Cork): For well be the oyster capital of Ireland. It’s anyone who knows and loves Cork, this 19km (12 miles) out of Galway and is a place of pilgrimage. There’s one end- well worth the drive—or the walk, for less, low-slung room with a bar running that matter. See p. 414. its full length, doors taken from an ocean • Crown Liquor Saloon (Belfast): This liner, barmen in white butchers’ coats, National Trust pub, across from the and a selection of delectable sandwiches. Grand Opera House in Belfast, is a It’s a slice of heaven. See p. 277. Victorian gem. Your mouth will drop • McGann’s (County Clare): Doolin, a open at its antique publican splendor dot of a town on the Clare Coast, is a even before you lift your first pint. See THE BEST OF IRELAND OF BEST THE magnet for traditional Irish musi- p. 517. 1 cians—and a wonderful spot to hear

15 THE BEST WEBSITES

• Dublin Tourist Office (www.visit • AA Roadwatch (www.aaroadwatch.ie): dublin.com): This site is the most com- Planning on driving? The route-plan- prehensive resource for visiting the ning feature of the Irish Automobile capital. We especially like the last-min- Association’s site is brilliantly simple.

THE BEST WEBSITES BEST THE ute booking service, which lets you find Plug in a starting point and destination out which hotels and guesthouses have and you’ll get a detailed, no-brainer set immediate availability, as well as which of directions from A to B. are offering the best discounts. • Entertainment Ireland (www. • Irelandhotels.com (www.irelandhotels. entertainment.ie): This handy, exhaus- com): What catapults this accommoda- tive, searchable database includes just tions database ahead of all the others is about every event in Ireland, from its “search by facility” function. Gotta museum exhibitions and rock concerts have a gym? Need to find a babysitter? to new plays and nightclub theme Want an in-room dataport for your nights—and there are well-written laptop? No problem. Plug in your reviews of them all. requirements and you’ll get a list of • Irish Family History Foundation hotels and guesthouses that fit the bill. (www.irishroots.net): This new, com- • Irish Tourist Board (www.discover prehensive genealogy resource contains ireland.ie): Bord Fáilte’s site is easy to documentation from all 32 counties. navigate and extremely informative. It’s Much of the archived information is an excellent place to gather ideas for free for your perusal, or you can avail your trip. yourself of researchers. • Newshound (www.nuzhound.com): the North, including a terrific timeline 15 Hands down, this is the best single of key events in the troubles. In addition, resource for keeping up-to-date on there are articles on the Republic, as well Northern Ireland. It’s a searchable library as travel and dining reviews. of news articles about developments in THE BEST OF IRELAND

1 THE BEST WEBSITES