Three Peninsulas Hike Ireland’S Greatest High-Level Long-Distance Hiking Route

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Spring 2020 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 133

HILLWALKING • CLIMBING • MOUNTAINEERING

Three Peninsulas Hike Ireland’s greatest high-level long-distance hiking route

Climbing the Voie Petit Hardest free rock climb on Chamonix granite

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2 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 A WORd fROM THE EdITOR

ISSUE 133 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland.

Mountaineering Ireland Welcome Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and éad míle fáilte! I hope you are registered in Dublin, No 199053. all keeping well in these Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, extraordinary times? We have National Sports Campus, a magazine that is full of Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland. Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 reports of activities that we We can still go walking Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 can probably now only dream locally,❝ as long as we [email protected] Cabout. However, life goes on! We may not www.mountaineering.ie be able to plan exotic holidays at present, maintain our social distance. but we can still go walking locally, as long Hot Rock Climbing Wall as we can maintain our social distance Tollymore Mountain Centre Bryansford, Newcastle from our companions. County Down, BT33 0PT We have a magazine that is full of McDonagh, on hiking and climbing in the Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 inspiring accounts of activities in mountain era of Covid-19 (see page 7). However, that [email protected] ranges around the world. The features start advice is changing all the time and will be Editor: Patrick O’Sullivan with Aidan Ennis’ account of the amazing updated further on hike he undertook in Kerry – the Three Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) www.mountaineering.ie as it develops. Our [email protected] Peninsulas Mountain Hike. Almost as CEO strikes a note that is optimistic but Literary Editor: Peter O’Neill amazing is the story of the events that led that also emphasises the precautions we [email protected] up to that hike. all need to take to protect ourselves, our The Irish Mountain Log is published by In addition, we have accounts of hiking in family and friends, and most importantly New Zealand and in Nepal, and then a Mountaineering Ireland four times a the vulnerable people we know in our year, in March, June, September, description of a superb climb in the Alps, Le communities. December. The material published in Voie Petit, the hardest free rock climb on As we go to print at the end of March, we the Log by the voluntary editorial team Chamonix granite, which was undertaken are still promoting events that are planned and contributors must not be taken as official Mountaineering Ireland policy by two leading Irish Alpinists, John McCune for later in the year on the basis that they unless specifically stated. and Freja Shannon. have not ofﬁcially been cancelled yet. The Finally, we have an update on the elusive situation is changing day by day and it is Copy deadline for the Summer 2020 hen harrier, with some amazing pictures of likely Covid-19 will affect planned events for issue of the Irish Mountain Log is: this very rare native bird in its breeding at least some months to come. Please do Friday, May 29th 2020. habitat. check the website www.mountaineering.ie Advertising: [email protected] Hopefully, there should be something in regularly for updated advice and for this issue for everyone in the audience! updates on forthcoming events. Keep safe! It is a difﬁcult time for us all and we have Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn, [email protected] up-to-date advice from our CEO, Murrough Patrick O’Sullivan, Editor Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd, Alexander Road, Belfast BT6 9HP Tel: +44 (0)28 9070 2020

Write for the Log PARTICIPATION AND RISK Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are  reminded that hillwalking and climbing are activities with a danger of personal Contributions of features, news items and photographs for injury or death. Participants in these the Irish Mountain Log are always welcome and should be activities should be aware of and sent to the Editor at: [email protected]. accept these risks, and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Contributors’ guidelines can be downloaded from the Mountaineering Ireland publishes and Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie. promotes safety and good practice advice and through the Mountain ON THE COVER Training Board of Ireland administers a To join Mountaineering Ireland and receive four issues of the View from finnararagh looking east range of training programmes for Irish Mountain Log delivered to your door each year, please towards Mullaghanattin on the walkers and climbers. also go to the website, www.mountaineering.ie. Iveragh peninsula in County Kerry

PHOTOGRAPH AIdAN ENNIS Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 3 Participants at the launch of the Access & Conservation Forum in CONTENTS Spring 2020 November working on a timeline on the history of access and conservation in the uplands. See story, page 28

18 Dingle Walking Festival 2020 42 Tongariro Alpine Crossing News By Ethna Garvey By Greg Butler 5 Alpinism now ‘cultural 19 Women with Altitude to 46 Overcrowding on the heritage’ celebrate 10th anniversary Everest Trail Patrick O’Sullivan reports Ruth Whelan reports By Jim Ryan 6 Be ‘AdventureSmart’! 20 Wicklow Uplands Council 48 The small way, and others... John McCune climbs the Voie Petit 7 Covid-19: please take discusses recreation matters in Chamonix these precautions Helen Lawless reports Murrough McDonagh reports 52 The hen harrier 21 New climbing wall to open By Mario Mac Rory 8 ‘Life and Times’ – Lynam at UL in May Lecture by Chris Bonington Martin Flood reports Regulars A report by Patrick O’Sullivan 56 Access & Conservation 11 The future of hill farming Climbing Helen Lawless reports in the Dublin Mountains Wicklow Uplands Council reports 22 Youth Trad Climbing Camps 58 Training Damien O’Sullivan reports Jane Carney reports 12 Upland farm walks in Dublin Dublin Mountains Partnership reports 23 Climbing Meets 2020 61 Crossword Competition Damien O’Sullivan reports 13 Tracking the E8 in Ireland 62 Books 24 2019/2020 Irish Reviews of recent books A report by Marian Wallis Bouldering League 14 New members of staff: Ania Damien O’Sullivan reports 66 The Last Word Ed Drummond (1945-2019) Bakiewicz and Linda Sankey 25 Youth Climbing Club Meet 16 The Woodlands for Health Kevin Kilroy reports Programme 26 The Intervarsity Climbing Linda Sankey reports Competition 2020 17 Family-friendly walks A report by Lauren Conlon Linda Sankey reports News Features 28 Access & Conservation Network launched A report by Helen Lawless 30 A trip to the High Tatras By Paul Griffin 32 Happy giving back Chris Avison reports on the Irish Nepalese Educational Trust’s 20th anniversary 34 Scottish Winter Meet 2020 A report by Aron Barry

Sir Chris Bonington Features John McCune high on the Voie Petit route 36 The Three Peninsulas LYNAM LECTURE 2019 Mountain Hike IRISH ASCENT OF VOIE PETIT 8 By Aidan Ennis 48 Photographs: Helen Lawless (Access & Conservation Forum), John McCune Collection (John on Voie Petit) Voie on (John John McCune Collection Forum), & Conservation (Access Helen Lawless Photographs: 4 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Staff & Board General enquirieS [email protected]

Staff Chief executive Officer Newsdesk Murrough McDonagh, [email protected] administration Officer Siobhán Quinn, [email protected] Hillwalking Development Officer Ruth Whelan, [email protected] access & Conservation Officer Helen Lawless, [email protected] Women in Sport Coordinator Ania Bakiewicz, [email protected] training Officer Jane Carney, [email protected] training & Membership Support administrator Laura Griffin, [email protected] Climbing Officer Damien O’Sullivan, [email protected] Youth Development Officer for The Matterhorn northern ireland Kevin Kilroy, [email protected] Get irelanD WalkinG initiative Alpinism now ‘cultural heritage’ Programme Manager, Get ireland Walking Jason King, [email protected] UNESCO recognises alpinism as a Cultural Heritage of Humanity Communications & administrative Officer, Get ireland Walking Alpinism is not only a physical activity ■ of challenging one’s own capabilities Linda Sankey, [email protected] requiring athletic qualities and technical and expertise while negotiating MOuntaineerinG irelanD expertise; it is also an exploration of natural, non-artificial obstacles; BOarD OffiCerS fascinating landscapes and a quest for ■ of evaluating and assuming measured President personal achievements. These risks; Paul Kellagher exceptional characteristics, plus its ■ of self-managing, self-responsibility [email protected] historical and cultural backgrounds, make and solidarity; Chairperson alpinism worth identifying as an ■ of respecting other people and natural Paul Barron ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage’ of sites. [email protected] outstanding and universal human and The benefits of the inclusion of social value. BOarD MeMBerS alpinism on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural In 2009, efforts were begun to get Imelda Buckley Heritage (ICH) list include: (Chair of Finance, Audit & Risk Committee) alpinism included on the UNESCO [email protected] Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity ■ the existence of a precise description Helen Donoghue list. UIAA member federations were of alpinism’s characteristics, agreed (Chair of Access & Conservation Committee) invited to lobby their respective after many working sessions of the [email protected] governments to join the project. Three involved organisations, as an Trish Kane countries took the lead on this, France, internationally recognised reference; [email protected] Switzerland and Italy, ■ recognising alpinism’s specific and Colette Mahon supported by several [email protected] outstanding values; other Alpine countries Michael Maunsell ■ having an additional means of and also UIAA, the [email protected] promoting the activity and its values; Gráinne McLaughlin International Climbing ■ having a definition in place to avoid (Chair of Hillwalking Committee) and Mountaineering misuse of the term; [email protected] Federation. ■ having a duly signed engagement of Clare O’Connor UNESCO finally decided at its General the concerned states to support the [email protected] Assembly in Bogota in December 2019 to promotion of the activity and to Dawson Stelfox include alpinism on the Representative preserve responsible freedom of (Chair of Mountain Training Board Ireland) List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of practice and access to sites. [email protected] Humanity. The inclusion of alpinism on UNESCO’s Geoff Thomas Alpinism is now recognised by UNESCO (Chair of Climbing Committee) ICH list was welcomed by UIAA President, as the art... [email protected] Fritz Vrijlandt, who said: “Alpinism ■ of climbing mountain summits and deserves this recognition for its unique faces by one’s own physical, technical characteristics and its deep historical and intellectual strengths; and cultural significance” ■ Photograph: Pascal Gertschen Photograph: Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 5 NEWSL0G Be ‘AdventureSmart’! Welsh outdoor safety campaign goes UK- and Ireland-wide

AdventureSmart prompts many people who explore the people to ask three questions UK. Mountaineering Ireland is before they set off on a walk, delighted to be extending this hike or climb: campaign to the island of Ireland. ■ Do I have the right gEar? Whatever the activity, being Do I know what the ■ adventure-smart is about WEatHEr will be like? considering a few simple things Am I conﬁdent I have the ■ to help your day stay great, and KNOWlEdgE aNd SKIllS for the day? to ensure that you return safe and sound, looking forward to Make sure your mobile is charged... * * * * * * * your next adventure. but don’t rely on it for navigation and communication People enjoying the coast and Experts from leading safety countryside across Wales, and sporting organisations England and, now, the island have developed messages to of Ireland, are being provide the essential Crossword results encouraged to be ‘adventure- information needed for people smart’ with the launch of a the winners of our Christmas Crossword in IML 132 were Sheila O’Sullivan, to get outdoors, conﬁdent that Carrigaline, Co Cork, who won a pair of Scarpa terra gtX boots, and John new outdoor safety campaign, they have prepared for a great O'Brien, Lucan, Co Dublin, who won a deuter trail 30 backpack, prizes AdventureSmart.UK. day. So, always ask yourself: worth a total of €304 from our crossword sponsor, Basecamp. the Mountaineering Ireland and solution to the crossword is shown below. Mountaineering Ireland will Mountain Training Board ■ Do I have the right gEar? contact the winners to arrange the collection of their prizes.

Ireland have recently become ■ Do I know what the 1 2 3 4 5 partners of WEatHEr will be like? S E V N B AdventureSmart.UK. 6 7 ■ Am I conﬁdent I have the The AdventureSmart C L I N T A R E T E KNOWlEdgE aNd SKIllS initiative began in Wales with L L N L S L for the day? 8 9 funding from the Welsh I C E F A L L S P A government. Building on the A new website, P N E Y established AdventureSmart www.adventuresmart.uk, now 10 11 12

Wales branding, a strong, linked to the Mountaineering 13 S T O N E Y T O P 14 eye-catching UK brand was Ireland website R O F T then developed. It is hoped 15 16 17 18 www.mountaineering.ie, A G A D U N G F L Y that the campaign can be provides all the information extended to include the island you need to answer these 19N L O A A L of Ireland. questions, including detailed G A P O F D U N L O E The aim of the campaign is information for the to reduce the number of E S F L Y R AdventureSmart regions. As a avoidable incidents that the new partner organisation, we rescue and emergency have joined forces to spread services have to deal with in the AdventureSmart messages the mountains each year, through the development far and wide across the island and promotion of a of Ireland. comprehensive set of safety messages. The campaign is an FINd OUt MOrE For more innovative approach to information, visit the website communicating safety to the www.adventuresmart.uk ■ 6 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Covid-19: please take these precautions Mountaineering Ireland has the following advice for all members and affiliated clubs Club events ■ Do not go in large groups, and practice good social distancing throughout the Mountaineering Ireland advises that all of day. There is plenty of space on the its member clubs should observe the hills for everyone. guidelines issued by the HSE in the Republic of Ireland and the HSC Public ■ If car-pooling, do not car-pool with Health Agency in Northern Ireland. In people with whom you are not in particular: regular contact, and avoid converging as a group for breaks, for photos and By Murrough McDonagh ■ We encourage all attendees at on summits. (CEO, Mountaineering Ireland) meetings or other events that are ■ With schools closed and more people held to maintain good social going out individually or in small In the face of the threat that is posed to distancing practice and good groups, there is extra pressure for public health by the Covid-19 pandemic, personal, hand and respiratory parking space. To avoid congestion, Mountaineering Ireland is following the hygiene by following the HSE consider doing a walk around your advice being issued by the Government guidelines on local area or choose a less busy of Ireland as the situation develops. The www2.hse.ie/conditions/coronavirus location. National Governing Body recommends /coronavirus.html or see If you arrive at a car park that is full, that all of its members and member www.bit.ly/coronaconditions. ■ please find alternative safe parking clubs do likewise. ■ If you have travelled from other and never park in front of farm gates, At this time, the advice from the countries outside of the island of or in any position that will obstruct public health experts is that everyone Ireland, please follow the guidance the emergency services, farmers or should limit social contacts and that all under the HSE website section on other road users. indoor events catering for one hundred www2.hse.ie/conditions/coronavirus people or more and outdoor events, /advice-for-people-returning-from- ■ If you do need assistance from affected-areas.html or see where five hundred people or more are Mountain Rescue, they will respond. www.bit.ly/corona-return. expected, should be cancelled until at Mountain Rescue teams are taking least March 29th. ■ If you have had contact with infected extra precautions at this time to Mountaineering Ireland advises all people, please do not attend any protect their members and their events. members to follow this advice from the families. public health experts in their private ■ Anyone with flu-like symptoms ■ To help support the government’s lives and when participating in any should avoid the risk of spreading advice on limiting social contact in mountaineering activities, in particular their infection, whatever that cafés, restaurants, etc, if you’re limiting social contacts and observing infection may be, by staying at home meeting in such places either before and recovering. good hand and respiratory hygiene. or after your activity, please ensure At this time, anyone who is ■ For club events in Northern Ireland, that social distance is maintained symptomatic should self–isolate and please refer to the following (minimum two metres between contact their doctor by phone to guidelines for the HSC Public Health people). Agency: arrange to be tested for Covid-19. www.publichealth.hscni.net/news/ Mountaineering Ireland will be reviewing covid-19-coronavirus or see the evolving situation on a day-to-day Postponed events www.bit.ly/coronanorthernireland. basis and will provide updated advice, when it is available, on the website, In line with this advice, the following www.mountaineering.ie. events have been postponed by Advice when planning This is a time when we all need to be Mountaineering Ireland: to go out on the hills working together to reduce the threat All clubs and members must take that this new pandemic poses to our ■ Youth Climbing Round 4 (scheduled ■ responsibility for their own actions. relatives and friends, our communities, for March 18th, 2020) our island and the world. ■ If you are heading out for a walk, a ■ Spring Gathering 2020 (scheduled hike or a climb at this time, it is It appears that older people and people for March 27-29th, 2020) reasonable to suggest using familiar, with chronic diseases are more vulnerable to Covid-19’s more serious effects. We The Wildflowers of Ireland Lecture low-risk routes, as you do not want to ■ need to be aware of this when we are (scheduled for April 2nd, 2020) end up needing to call out the emergency services or be sent to socialising and, if we are symptomatic, to ■ Michael Fewer’s Lectures hospital with the current pressures self-isolate and to particularly avoid (scheduled for Dublin, May 12th, and on the health sector across the island contact with those who are more Waterford, May 19th, 2020). of Ireland. vulnerable ■ Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 7 Photographs: Patrick O’Sullivan (Bonington delivering lecture) mountaineers, in recognition of his (1924-2011), one of Ireland’s best-known in 2011 in the memory of December 18 Pearse Street, Dublin, on Thursday, Accountants Ireland lecture hall on packed auditorium in the Chartered delivered the 2019 Lynam Lecture to a British mountaineer, lecturer and author, Sir Chris Bonington, By Patrick O’Sullivan Chris Bonington: ‘Life and Times’ 8 Sir Chris Bonington delivers the 2019 Lynam Lecture to a full house NEWS The Lynam Lecture was inaugurated Lynam Lecture Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish LOG th , 2019. the renowned Joss Lynam the Editor of the many hillwalking guidebooks. He was also international walking enthusiasts for his Ireland. He was known to many Irish and the development of adventure sports in outstanding voluntary contribution to expeditions to the Greater Ranges and an participating in many mountaineering mountaineers. a number of generations of Irish of our sport and was an inspiration to developments in these different areas his lifetime, Joss initiated numerous and overseas over some 60 years. During climbing and mountaineering in Ireland enormous achievements in hillwalking, Chris Bonington with Joss lynam at the great Sugar loaf, Co Wicklow, in 2007 Joss Lynam’s achievements included Irish Mountain Log progress in coming years. aspects of our sport and how it might reflected on the development of various delivered outstanding lectures that have Paddy O’Leary. McCune; Ines Papert; Venables; 2012, mountaineers: 2011, leading national and international Lynam Lecture has been delivered by magazine up to the time of his death. continued as the Literary Editor of the magazine for more than 20 years. Joss Since it was inaugurated in 2011, the Dawson Stelfox; Dublin inDecember Lecture by Sir ChrisBonington in Rapt audienceat the 2019Lynam 2017, 2014, 2016, Frank Nugent; All of these have Clare Sheridan; Paul Swail and John Harish Kapadia; 2013, Stephen Spring 2020 Spring 2018, 2015, Photographs: Patrick O’Sullivan (Bonington with medal) Spring 2020 Spring mountaineer. life and in his professional life as a suffered in that time, both in his personal failures but also on the losses he had He reflected on his successes and climbing the world’s highest mountains. us through his more than sixty years of country. His Ireland members from all around the audience of about 400 Mountaineering sometimes emotional lecture to a rapt recipient of the Sir Chris Bonington and abroad. He then introduced developments in our sport, in Ireland Irish mountaineer by reflecting on Lectures was to commemorate a great present that the intention of the Lynam Working Group. He reminded those Maunsell, Hamish MacInnes. new routes when he teamed up with was eighteen saw him putting up three days. A winter trip to Scotland when he natural ability on rock, even in those early various routes that demonstrated his North Wales, where he attempted Harrison’s Rocks. he had ever had. injured, but it was the most exciting day avalanche off Crib Goch. He wasn’t the Miners Track, only to be hit by an they attempted to climb to North Wales with a school friend and had been his first mountain climb. and he told us that the found the Wicklow hills more friendly exploratory instincts were aroused. He appeared from that side. Chris’s presented, stark as the Carneddau was struck by the challenges they was passing through North Wales. He he became aware of mountains as he time in Dublin with his grandfather, that on his way by train to Holyhead to spend there. It was only in his teenage years, in north London and was brought up warmly on his meetings with Joss. meetings in the UK. Chris reflected and others, and including at BMC years, around Europe, at UIAA meetings occasions at various meetings over the some of the losses he had experienced. clearly quite emotional talking about and there were times when he was Chris wears his heart on his sleeve, Sir Chris delivered an excellent and This year’s lecture was opened by Back in London, he started climbing at After Christmas 1950, Chris hitched up Chris was born in 1934 in Hampstead Sir Chris had met Joss on several chair of the Lynam Lecture ‘Life and Times’ 2019 Lynam Medal. Then it was back to as the well-deserving Little Sugar Loaf Snowdon lecture took on Mike ‘Who’s who’ of mainly British sixty years of mountaineering became a Sir Chris’s rapid account of his more than the North Face of the time. The following year, he led a climb on amongst others, MacInnes, but he also teamed up with, climbed the were followed by successes. In 1958, he classic routes. Failures in bad weather early repeats of some of what are now of repeated visits to the Alps to attempt but that seems to have been the start Eiger. British ascent of the North Face of the him to join him in an attempt at the first snow and ice, Hamish MacInnes invited In 1957, inexperienced as Chris was on First visit to the Alps he spent another two years. Tank Regiment, based in Germany, where training he was commissioned in the Wales. After a couple of years’ basic climbing and mountains, mostly in North all the time pursuing his fascination with Bonington, right, celebrates receiving hisLynam Lecture Medal award at the endof his talk In fact, after his introductory remarks, After school, he did his National Service, The weather was against them, Bonatti Pillar Don Whillans Cima Grande. on the Dru with for the first in the Lake District, where he still lives. world when he was mountaineering. was very much in charge of his own companies such as but also by getting sponsorship from lecturing and writing about his climbs, but by receiving an income mainly from professional mountaineer, not by guiding living from his climbing, to become a Chris was one of the first to make a Turning professional world. The which he had undertaken around the of the significant climbs and first ascents mountaineers he had climbed with, and Nick Estcourt. up a long new route at England, Scotland and Wales. He even put numerous first ascents on crags all over grades at home and continuing to put up All that, while still climbing at the highest Shivling, Sepu Kangri... South Face, Everest SW Face, K2, Ogre, Paine, Annapurna 2, Nuptse, Annapurna of the He reflected that when you are He married Eiger, Glacier behindhim in 1985, and the Khumbu Everest, which hesummited in the Himalayas, with Chris Bonington relaxing Freney Pillar, the Wendy Walker Spur, Torres del Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish Berghaus. and started living Fair Head the list is endless. the North Face He felt he

with 9 ▲ NEWSLOG

engaged in a dangerous sport, such as mountaineering, there will be losses along the way. He has lost many good friends on the various climbs he has been involved in. He mentioned Ian Clough, Mick Burke, Joe Tasker, Pete Boardman, Nick Estcourt and the many others. He was quite emotional at times, talking about those deaths, but it was clear that he saw them as to be expected, given the seriousness of the routes he was tackling. He felt you still had to go on. He also talked about his personal ruairí Shortt (grandson of Joss lynam) presents Sir Chris Bonington with the 2019 lynam lecture losses: his son, and his wife Wendy, who Medal (with Mike Maunsell on left and Mountaineering Ireland President Paul Kellagher on right). died of motor neurone disease in 2014. Chris finally succeeded in climbing change as you get older but you can still Who better to remind us of that than Sir Everest (8,848m) when he summited feel a sense of adventure in the things Chris Bonington, given the adventurous with a Norwegian expedition in 1985. you do, whatever age you are. He life he has clearly led, as he recounted in However, he felt Shivling (6,543m) in encouraged us all to do the most with his truly inspiring lecture. northern India had been his best climb what we have at the time. After the talk, Sir Chris answered a because they had done it Alpine-style, He felt we are too risk adverse now. wide range of questions from the as opposed to the big expedition siege We need to be sensible, but adventure is audience. He was then thanked by the tactics he had used on many of the an important part of our lives. We should Mountaineering Ireland President, Paul bigger mountains he had tackled. all love the outdoors at whatever level Kellagher, for a truly outstanding talk, He talked about the joy of exploring we are at. He spoke about the joy that and presented with the 2019 Lynam and the need to keep a sense of he and his new wife, Loreto, get from Medal by Ruairí Shortt, Joss’s grandson adventure in life. The objectives may spending time together in the outdoors. ■ History articles sought articles sought for Journal of the Irish Mountaineering and Exploration Historical Society Mountaineering Ireland continues to provide the In 2001, Mountaineering Ireland established book service previously operated by Joss the Irish Mountaineering and Exploration Lynam. We can supply you with guidebooks Historical Society in order to further and maps to almost any part of the world. For the walker, there is a large collection of interest in the rich history of Irish Cicerone guides and books, or the wider mountaineering and exploration. The selection of books and guides distributed society published two issues of the journal by Cordee which also includes many in 2002 and 2005, both edited by the late climbing guides. Books reviewed in the Joss Lynam. They were well received and Irish Mountain Log can usually be contained much information of historical purchased through Joss Books with a importance in the field. The journal was members’ discount. To place an order, successfully revived in 2012 with Volume 3, ring the Mountaineering Ireland office and Volume 4 followed in 2015. Plans are on (01) 6251115 or email now afoot to produce a fifth volume next year, 2021. Next year will be [email protected]. the fiftieth anniversary of the national governing body for the sport of mountaineering on the island of Ireland, now Mountaineering Ireland. As with the previous issues, the journal will include fresh research as well as articles published elsewhere in order that, in Joss’s words, “the Journal of the Irish Mountaineering and Exploration Historical Society will be recognised as the best source of information on our history [and] that all important articles be found in it.” We are interested in receiving relevant material for the Please note: a substantial discount is available forthcoming issue. If you are interested in writing an article on an for Mountaineering Ireland members on book appropriate subject (or already have done so, even if already purchases ordered directly from Cicerone published elsewhere), please contact the editor, Declan O’Keeffe, at [email protected]. Copies of issues 1-4 of the journal can be

Photograph: Patrick O’Sullivan Patrick Photograph: purchased from Mountaineering Ireland and through its website ■

10 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Photographs: Wicklow Uplands Council Spring 2020 Spring The future of Dublin Mountains hill farming communities. It was agreed enhances sustainable rural greater public good and and contributes widely to the national importance in Ireland the role of upland farmers is of general consensus was that farming techniques. The of modern and traditional farming model using a blend create a sustainable upland breeds, and how best to periods, flock sizes and about optimum grazing upland terrain. management approaches for land and vegetation practices and the appropriate profitable hill-farming uplands, sustainable and ecological importance of our presentations on the SUAS Project Service, Teagasc National Parks and Wildlife Ireland. communities throughout affecting hill-farming Mountains and the issues the Dublin and Wicklow topics related to hill-farming in Teagasc, SUAS Pilot Project was jointly organised by the attended the event, which Glenasmole. Sixty people Dublin townland of picturesque south County held in early February in the the Dublin Mountains’ ‘The Future of Hill Farming in An information event entitled Wicklow Uplands Council There was much discussion Guest speakers from the to explore a range of gave and the and was reports on an information event held in Glenasmole, Co Dublin, in February Ecologist for the National Enda Mullen, Mountains National Park. walk within the Wicklow assembled for a short guided Reservoir, the group 19 Glenasmole valley and the and overlooking the by stunning mountain views upland habitats. Surrounded ecological factors affecting observe first-hand the many travelled to a nearby hill to attendees, many of the group an open discussion with sequestering carbon. preventing flooding and good quality water sources, play a vital role in providing that healthy upland habitats Leading the large group was After the presentations and th -century Bohernabreena the Divisional and to promote sustainable decline in hill-farming activities designed to address the is a locally-led pilot project Environmental (SUAS) Scheme Sustainable Upland Agri- travelling down for it. partnership groups also Northern Ireland’s upland Service, with one group from National Parks and Wildlife representatives from the SUAS Project and farmers, participants in the sensitive ecology. fires have had on the area’s overview of the impact recent the uplands and gave an species in the biodiversity of pointed out many of the plant Parks and Wildlife Service, who Launched in 2018, the The attendees included at GlenasmoleCommunity Centre SUAS Pilot Project, delivers apresentation Declan Byrne, Project Manager of the Glenasmole valley, Co Dublin on the uplandsabove and Wildlife Service) speaking Enda Mullen (National Parks the www.wicklowuplands.ie ■ communities.” better support hill-farming appropriate grazing and to better understanding of management, to create a methods for land best approaches and discover and promote the the SUAS Project is to underestimated. The work of really cannot be healthy, thriving biodiversity and the preservation of its importance of our uplands Project, said: “The Manager of the SUAS Pilot Declan Byrne, Wicklow and Dublin uplands. farming practices in the Speaking after the event, For further information on SUaS Pilot Project Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish Project go to ■ 11 NEWSL0G

Donie Anderson leads a walk in the Castlekelly area of Glenasmole, Co Dublin Upland farm walks in Dublin

Dublin Mountains Partnership is organising guided walks to connect people with the farm landscape in the Dublin foothills. The Dublin Mountains Partnership reports

At the beginning of March, including pointing out the Everyone who has taken ■ You can follow the the Dublin Mountains Fionn Mac Cumhaill Stone. part so far has really enjoyed Dublin Mountains Partnership (DMP) started He also explains what the the walk, which has given Partnership on Facebook to organising weekly walks place-names in the area them a greater ﬁnd out more about the through upland farmland in mean. understanding of the life of organisation and the walks south Dublin to help people After the walk, participants a sheep farmer as well as they are organising. connect with farming and are able to warm up in the demonstrating the beauty ■ Please note: walks may nature, and also to try to Glenasmole Community of the area. be cancelled due to the encourage the use of the Centre. Covid-19 crisis ■ walking trails in the area so that they might become sustainable. The walks are led by Glenasmole farmer Donie Anderson with the assistance of his trusty sheepdog Jess. They give participants an insight into upland sheep farming as they walk along an historical trail in the Castlekelly area. The walks will be organised weekly and are intended to connect walkers more closely with the area in which they are walking. In addition to talking about sheep farming and demonstrating Jess’s skills in herding sheep and geese, Donie also talks about the history of the area, Donie Anderson’s trusty sheepdog Jess Photographs: Helen Lawless Photographs: 12 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Tracking the E8 from Dursey to Dublin

Marian Wallis completes an inspection of the Irish leg of the long-distance route from Cork to Istanbul

The E8 is a European long- route can be divided into the distance route that now runs following stages: from Dursey Island, Co Cork, It follows the Beara Way to Istanbul in Turkey. It is the from Dursey Island to Allihies task of the European via the Garnish Loop; it then Ramblers Association (ERA) goes from Allihies on to to track the definite version Castletownbere, and from of this walk. there to Adrigole, ending in The E8 in Ireland is a Glengarriff. wonderful route that takes From Glengarriff, I followed you from the wild Atlantic the Slí Gaeltacht Mhúscraí to coast to the Irish Sea. The join the Duhallow Way near landscape tells its own story Millstreet, Co Cork. of myths, history, culture, Heading east on the language, traditions, music Duhallow Way, I passed and commerce. through Bweeng, and then As the representative of followed the Blackwater Way Mountaineering Ireland’s through Mallow, Killavullen, Hillwalking Committee on Fermoy and Kilworth, to meet the European Ramblers the Avondhu Way shortly Association’s E8 Working after Arraglin. It was here also Group, I found myself leaving that I finally left County Cork home at 5.30am on a wet, after a traverse of 300 stormy, October morning to kilometres, before joining the drive to Dursey to begin the Avondhu Way. Marian Wallis in Marlay Park, dublin, on completing the Irish section trek to Marlay Park, Dublin. Crossing the of the E8 route. the final leg follows the Wicklow Way from Clonegal, 540 kilometres and 17,815m Knockmealdowns, I wound in Co Carlow, to Marlay Park in rathfarnham, dublin. of ascent later, with help from and out of counties Tipperary family and four friends from and Waterford before finally the Ballyhoura Bears, I arriving beside Bay Lough, a Tipperary. Irish leg of the E8. arrived in Marlay Park. The corrie lake near Clogheen, Co From here, the East The E8 in Ireland extends Munster Way took me to over seven counties and nine Carrick-on-Suir, Co Waterford. mountain ranges, descends Leaving Carrick, the South into numerous valleys, Leinster Way led me through crosses rivers and winds Mullinavat, Inistioge, through forests to finally pass Graiguenamanagh and Borris, under the M50 and arrive to end in Kildavin, Co Carlow. triumphantly in Dublin. The Then it was 4.3km along a minor road to Clonegal, Co walk reveals the many faces Carlow, where I joined the of Ireland and yet is Wicklow Way. testimony to the I then followed the Wicklow timelessness of our Way to Dublin’s Marlay Park, landscape and the richness where I ended my hike of the of our history ■

aUtHOr: Marian Wallis is a member of Mountaineering Ireland’s Hillwalking Committee and represents Mountaineering Ireland on the European ramblers association’s E8 Working group. Marian has now tracked the entire 540 kilometres of the Irish leg of the E8 European long-distance path from Dursey Island in Cork to Marlay Park Bay lough, a corrie lake near Clogheen, Co tipperary in Dublin. Photographs: Marian Wallis Collection (herself in Marlay Park), Hywel Williams (Bay Lough) Williams (Bay Hywel Park), in Marlay (herself Collection Wallis Marian Photographs: Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 13 New members of staff

Mountaineering Ireland recently appointed a new Women in Sport Coordinator, Ania Bakiewicz Ania Bakiewicz Women in Sport Coordinator

Ania transitioned to working where she enjoys walking in a coffee shop, rising to and rock climbing in every management level. season. She especially In 2013, she decided to enjoyed the winter get involved in outdoor mountaineering and ice education, initially at Bray climbing trip. Institute of Further In January 2020, she Education and then on the joined Mountaineering Outdoor Instructor Ireland as the Women in Development Programme in Sport Coordinator. Her role Tollymore National Outdoor is to foster greater Centre. During that time, she involvement of women in explored the Mourne, mountaineering as self- Donegal, Kerry and Wicklow sufficient hillwalkers, mountains. Ania qualified as well-trained climbers and a mountain leader, kayaking coaches. coach and an indoor and She wants to support outdoor climbing instructor. women to become more She particularly fell in love involved in leadership roles with rock climbing. in their hillwalking and Since 2016, Ania has mountaineering clubs. She worked as an indoor wants them to be seen as climbing instructor in Dublin potential mountain leaders, Climbing Centre in Tallaght. club officers and board There, she worked with members. She intends to children and teenagers, encourage active delivering NICAS (National participation of women in Indoor Climbing Award mountaineering events Schemes) classes, and throughout Ireland. taught the fundamentals of Ania wants to promote climbing to adults. Mountaineering Ireland’s She still actively runs mission to women of all Ania Bakiewicz women’s coaching sessions ages, from all social and in Dublin Climbing Centre on economic backgrounds. She Mountaineering Ireland’s new Poland dating from the Thursday evenings, particularly hopes to ensure Women in Sport Coordinator, Neolithic period to the late overseeing the development that teenage girls continue Ania Bakiewicz, was born Middle Ages. of female climbers, many of their participation in near Szczecin, in Poland, on She came to Ireland in whom started to climb there mountaineering into their the edge of the Drawa 2005 to work as an under her supervision and adult lives. Ania would also National Park, where she archaeologist, and her work who have since progressed like to support existing spent her childhood, brought her all over the to being self-sufficient exploring the natural beauty island of Ireland and to a outdoor climbers. female mountaineers and of the forest and learning wide variety of sites, Ania also coaches children promote them as role about the flora and fauna. including Iron Age ring forts, from Mountaineering models to follow. Ania graduated with an MA burial sites and King John’s Ireland’s Climbing in archaeology from the Castle in Carlingford, Co Development Squad. CONtaCt You can contact Adam Mickiewicz University Louth. She became Ania spends all of her Ania Bakiewicz, in Poznan, Poland, and for immersed in Irish culture, holidays climbing or Mountaineering Ireland’s many years worked as a field mythology and traditional bouldering in Ireland and Women in Sport archaeologist in the music, and enjoyed Irish abroad. She has explored the Coordinator, at Cistercian Monastery in food and, of course, the Isle of Skye and Mont Blanc. [email protected] Bierzwnik, and in numerous Guinness. Ania loves going back home or phone her at other archaeological sites in With the economic crash, to the Tatra Mountains, +353 (0) 87 755 5908 ■

14 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Mountaineering Ireland recently appointed a new ofﬁcer to get Ireland Walking, Linda Sankey Linda Sankey Communications & Administrative Ofﬁcer, Get Ireland Walking

she studied radio and television Linda enjoys walking as she production. Linda then spent ten years appreciates its accessibility. Her father working as a freelance television has a neurological disease and is production manager. Her TV credits dependent on a walking stick, yet he include No Frontiers, About the House, goes for walks daily. That level of Beyond the Hall Door, Garden Heaven tenacity is inspiring to Linda. The and various documentaries. Linda also self-care aspect to walking and the worked in event management, working opportunity to clear your mind appeals on Riverdance, as well as on various festivals and exhibitions. greatly to her. After starting a family, Linda realised Linda’s role in Get Ireland Walking that she wanted to change her career initially is to develop a communications path and took advantage of being at strategy, which will involve researching home to go back to college at night to all the existing communications outputs study communications, web design and to date and creating new objectives for development. She then decided to work the different communications channels. in the charity sector and worked there in One of the most important aspects of communications roles for several years. the role for Linda is capturing stories She loves visual inspiration and and sharing them. Be prepared to hear content, including graphic design, more from Get Ireland Walking! typography, branding and websites. Linda is never happier work-wise until Linda Sankey she is redrafting and reinvigorating CONtaCt You can contact content and resources. She recently Linda Sankey, Get Ireland Walking’s Linda Sankey joined the Get Ireland completed a certiﬁcate in digital Communications & Administrative Walking initiative in December 2019. She marketing to keep her skill-set up Ofﬁcer, at [email protected] is from Dublin and, after leaving school, to date. or phone her at (01) 625 1109 ■

Skills workshop 23-24 May 2020 laragh, county wicklow

Scrambling Navigation Climbing

To book: www.mountaineering.ie 00353 (0)1 625 1112 NEWSLOG

The Woodlands for Health Programme Taking a walk in the woods makes you feel better!

By Linda Sankey Kerry. This study was HSE mental health Participants reported that (Get Ireland Walking) completed by Kerry’s occupational therapists were provision of the bus was Community Walking present every week as walk fundamental to their ability to With the success of the Development Officer. The leaders and to support the access many of the walks as Woodlands for Health walking twelve-week walking series group. In addition, the most of the participants have programme in Wicklow and commenced in spring 2019 Community Walking no access to private transport. Dún Laoghaire Rathdown, Get and was held every Programme Facilitator joined A central meeting point and Ireland Walking coordinated Wednesday. The walks covered the walks at the start, middle time was agreed to the expansion of the a wide geographical spread of and end points of the convenience the participants. programme in 2019 with its locations across Kerry, programme to monitor delivery to Kerry, Wexford, encompassing woodland trails, programme progress. Feedback Laois, Sligo, Roscommon and including in Killarney National Participants: Limerick. Park and Kilaclohane Woods, Transport Woodlands for Health offers coastal walks and other To provide transport, Kerry Overall, the participant feedback a recovery-focused eco- walking routes, and generally Recreation & Sports was very positive and in favour therapy programme, which lasted one hour. Partnership partnered with of the group continuing. Below complements traditional Twenty-seven people in total Local Link Kerry (Transport are some of their comments: mental health treatment and participated in the walking Coordination Unit), who fosters the social inclusion of programme, with an average of coordinated the transport ● Walking in fresh air...relaxed.” people who have experienced thirteen participants per week. under their Social Inclusion ● “Exercise is key to good mental health difficulties. The The pilot group was a closed Transport Support stream. mental health.” concept of the programme is group. Participants were Local Link Kerry contracted a ● “Doing different walks in simple: taking a walk in a green informed of the programme local operator to provide different locations…going for space such as a local park or and invited to join it by their transport for the group to and a coffee afterwards.” woodland makes you feel local HSE Kerry Mental Health from the walking locations. ● “The variety of walks...and better. Services team. Under this agreement, 50% of their short duration. The The Kerry Recreation & The programme was the cost of the bus was best were the Coillte and Sports Partnership, with the facilitated by Kerry’s subsidised by Local Link Kerry national park walks.” support of the HSE Health Community Walking and 50% by Kerry Recreation ● “Meeting new Promotion Department and Development Officer and and Sports Partnership/Get people...having good the Institute of Technology, Coillte staff, who welcomed Ireland Walking. conversation…helping each Tralee, was instrumental in the group, introduced the The agreement to subsidise other.” developing a feasibility study Coillte woodlands to them and the transport facilitated a ● “I enjoyed spending time to pilot the programme in also led some of the walks. sustainable programme model. with friends and meeting Photographs: Get Ireland Walking Ireland Get Photographs: 16 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Photographs: Get Ireland Walking and your family. Don’t forget space to give my soul a lift. like a beach or a big open need something spectacular the weekend rolls around I walking the dog. By the time use a lot during the week, almost on my doorstep, which I and have a great local park blue. I live in a very urban space complicated. Think green and need to be expensive or technology behind. in case, but try to leave the weather clothes, of course, just need some suitable wet and take your dog! You will go walking! off: get out of the house and make the most of your time you prioritise your activities to weekend, we can suggest that do more active things at the more time or any incentive to Sadly, while we cannot give you cleaning the house and ‘admin.’ and may be taken up with weekend. The weekend is short to catch up on life at the It can be hard to find the time (Get Ireland Walking) By Linda Sankey Get active on family-friendly walks ● therapists: HSE occupational ● ● ● ● ● Spring 2020 Spring “It was hugely rewarding to “Getting a chance to lead “Talking to others.” “Walking in different “The atmosphere of Choose what works for you Getting out walking doesn’t “Going for walks that you see the Woodlands for others.” walks, and interacting with afterwards.” walking...feeling energised and chatting while locations...meeting others to.” would otherwise not get great.” walking in the woods was and looking at trees, etc.” spending time in nature new people. I loved Take your family ● ● ● things-to-do/walking. www.waterwaysireland.org/ walk beside a waterway: see not enjoy it! You could also up and down a sand dune and dogs. It is impossible not to run places to walk with kids and parking and picnic areas. across the Republic, with car and 260 recreational sites There are twelve forest parks www.coillte.ie/activity/walking. check out Coillte’s webpage also take a woodland walk: family friendly walks. You could handy database for buggy and familywalksireland.com the area. to improve the biodiversity of fifteen cattle were introduced you read that correctly! The ‘Spot the Highland cattle.’ Yes, along a glacial ridge and play border, where you can walk Lucan on the Dublin/Kildare such as St Catherine’s Park in that you may not be aware of, there are many hidden gems also check out your local parks: Northern Ireland. You should Outstanding Natural Beauty in the Republic and nine Areas of there are six national parks in “It was lovely to see people “The occupation of walking “It benefited our clients so Beaches are also fun, free The website being and becoming.” therapy concept of doing, people in the occupational Health programme engage chatting and walking in a the occupation of walking.” meaningful level through engaged on a truly eliminated and people group. Social barriers were member of the walking everybody was an equal be broken down, as professionals and clients to barriers between allowed the constructed communities.” activity in their local fully engage in meaningful much, as they were able to is a Rock Loop, Listowel, Co Kerry. areas, e.g. Lyracrumpane Mass the less accessible woodland Transport will be available for accessed woodland walks. will encompass locally 2020 on a quarterly basis and This programme will be run in 2020 programme ● Sports Partnership: Kerry Recreation & canals and rivers. running on and alongside lakes, Blueways are stunning trails www.bluewaysireland.org. blueways: see walk on one of the four existing a GPS tracker so that you don’t You can also turn the app into reviews and tips for each walk. on a leash,’ and there are useful tagged ‘kid friendly’ and ‘dogs offline maps. The walks are app allows you to download as easy, moderate or hard. The The trails are handily marked filter it for a more specific area. near your location. You can and which will show you trails that requires you to sign up some useful apps. assistance to get organised, try “To witness the extensive If you need some digital Or maybe you could take a The part of a social group.” woodland area and being very rewarding.” benefited holistically, was programme partners programme, whereby all Woodlands for Health in implementing the collaborative efforts made AllTrails app is a free app and delivered by Mountaineering Ireland. supported by Healthy Ireland and hosted Walking [email protected]. (01) 625 1109 Officer with Get Ireland Walking. www.getirelandwalking.ie, FINd OUt MOrE: aUtHOr: Ireland Walking, visit the website is an initiative of Sport Ireland, linda Sankey or email Linda Sankey at askea Calnan, Walking Programme Facilitator Córa Carrigg; Sports Partnership Coordinator Fitzgerald; McCarthy and Catherine occupational therapists Our thanks to HSE mental health Acknowledgments volunteer groups Partnership and the local Recreation & Sports established in Kerry by Kerry local planned to link it with the in the programme, it is associated with participating physical fitness benefits participant health and To assess and monitor the benefits Participant get lost. restorative environments are more filled with stimulation, natural while urban environments are it is worth remembering that, jog or run! See to the weekend. You can walk, country and a good active start nearly every park across the These are free, available in active, you can join a park run. playground post-walk. promise to go to the bribe my children with a fun in a playground. I tend to you can combine the walk with 650 outdoor playgrounds, and exact location of more than which will guide you to the Playground GPS Ireland Ultimately, at the weekends, You can also download the If you fancy being more To find out more about Get park runs Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish to Kerry Recreation & is Communications to the Community ■ and to contact us on www.parkrun.ie. that were get Ireland ■ Coillte. Caroline app, 17 NEWSL0G

Walkers on the dingle Way near Slea Head on the dingle peninsula, Co Kerry Dingle Walking Festival 2020

By Ethna Garvey these should be at their best regular hillwalkers. It is also Head area. this coming May, when the planned to incorporate a We look forward to Dingle Hillwalking Club festival will take full advantage Mindfulness Walk, a welcoming many old and new (Cumann Sléibhteoireachta of this idyllic environment. Biodiversity Walk and a friends to our town in May Chorca Dhuibhne) is There is a wide variety of Historical Walk into the 2020. organising this year’s Dingle accommodation and programme. Walking Festival over the restaurants in Chorca We also hope to take full aUtHOr: Ethna garvey is the weekend of May 15-17th, 2020. Dhuibhne to suit different advantage of the many club secretary of dingle The Dingle peninsula in budgets and every taste. ancient monastic and Hillwalking Club. west Kerry is famous for its There will be easy, moderate archaeological sites on the FINd OUt MOrE: For the latest natural beauty and its and difﬁcult walks. The difﬁcult peninsula, with a combined festival information, check stunning sea, cliff and walks should prove a decent bus tour and walk to sites of www.dinglehillwalkingclub.com mountain scenery. Hopefully, challenge for experienced, interest around the Slea ■ Photographs: Ethna Garvey Collection (Slea Head area), Noel O’Neill/Lens Alive Photography (bottom photos) (bottom Photography Alive Noel O’Neill/Lens Head area), (Slea Collection Garvey Ethna Photographs: 18 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Women With Altitude to celebrate its 10th anniversary this year

Falls Hotel, Ennistymon, Co Clare, May 15-17th, 2020

By Ruth Whelan

Women With Altitude (WWA) is a Mountaineering Ireland initiative to encourage women to take on greater challenges in mountaineering, be they personal, technical or leadership challenges. Established in 2011, this initiative promotes and facilitates women’s participation by providing support with skills training and leadership development, inspirational role models and opportunities to network. To celebrate the tenth anniversary of this initiative, we are going to the Burren and will be based at the Falls Hotel, in Ennistymon, Co Clare. This year’s WWA event is all about building confidence on the hills and crags, where new participants and some familiar faces will come together to celebrate women in the mountains and continue to develop their skills and build confidence at all levels. As part of the weekend and to celebrate ten years of Women This is also a great opportunity for female members of clubs, With Altitude, we decided we would include a panel discussion who could potentially become great club walk leaders, to session. The panel will consist of women who have been increase their confidence. involved in Women With Altitude down through the years, be it The event offers an open and welcoming environment where as an instructor, a key speaker or an organiser. Such women are women will have the opportunity to develop their skills and gain role models for other women in our sport and have been knowledge from some of the country’s top female instructors, influential in progressing female participation in and to meet and socialise with like-minded females interested mountaineering. in hillwalking and climbing. Our panellists will include Helen Lawless, Orla Prendergast, This year’s programme is bigger and better than ever, with a Sinead Pollock and Ursula MacPherson. variety of courses to suit all levels of ability for both hillwalkers To guide the discussions and make sure all your pressing and climbers. questions are answered, Colette Mahon (Women With Altitude organising team member and instructor) will chair the ■ Bookings are now open! discussion. Go to www.mountaineering.ie/events ■ Photograph: Sorcha Dolan Sorcha Photograph: Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 19 NEWSL0G

attendees at the recent Wicklow Uplands Council meeting in Hollywood, west Wicklow

Ireland, the Wicklow Uplands Council is unable to reach the Duty Ranger, phone Recreation leading a project to carry out a path the Wicklow Mountains National Park condition survey in the Wicklow Information Office, 0404 45425. Do not matters discussed Mountains. The survey will identify path text the Duty Ranger number, as your sections that are badly eroded and in need message will not go through. by Wicklow of repair, and provide an indication of the cost to do this work. Break-ins to parked vehicles Uplands Council People were urged not to leave any Off-road vehicle activity valuables in parked vehicles and to By Helen Lawless Wicklow Mountains National Park report all break-ins. If crimes are not Conservation Ranger Ann Fitzpatrick reported, it is more difficult for the Gardaí The Wicklow Uplands Council recently held spoke about the increase in illegal to justify continued patrols along roads in a meeting in Hollywood, west Wicklow, with recreational use of off-road vehicles in the the uplands. a strong focus on matters related to Wicklow Mountains, which has escalated recreation. Starting with the impact of off- over the past two years. This is a concern Parking road vehicle activity, discussion widened to because of ecological impacts: once the Walking groups were urged to car-pool the need for resources to manage the vegetative layer is damaged, soil is opened and use buses, and not to park in impact of the increased numbers of people up to the action of rain and frost. visiting the Wicklow uplands for recreation It is also a public safety issue, both on gateways or in front of forest barriers (as activities. the hills and on upland roads, and it the emergency services may need access). impinges on the experience of hillwalkers The requirement for additional parking in ■ The Wicklow Uplands Council is a and other visitors. Members of the the Wicklow uplands was highlighted, as non-statutory organisation with a mission to motorcycle trials community, who was the need for toilet facilities. As most support the sustainable use of the Wicklow organise a number of permitted events in hikers would pay for parking with some uplands through consensus and partnership degree of security, this could be a with those who live, work and recreate there. Wicklow each year, described the damage as deplorable and said they would work business opportunity for a landowner Brian Dunne, Co-ordinator with the together with others to address the in a suitable location. Wicklow Uplands Council, began by problem. outlining some of the positive things Ann emphasised the need for reports Dogs in the uplands currently happening – a trail connection and encouraged people to phone the A number of farmers in the Wicklow that will be in place from Avondale House Duty Ranger, 087 980 3899, at weekends mountains lost sheep in 2019 as a result to Glendalough by the end of this year, and to report off-road vehicle activity, wildlife of dog attacks. While it was acknowledged the upgrade work being carried out on crime or other matters affecting the that many of the dogs involved may have St Kevin’s Way. In partnership with other condition of the national park and the come from the locality, there is an ongoing organisations, including Mountaineering wider Wicklow Mountains SAC. If you are Photographs: Wicklow Uplands Council (WUC meeting), Helen Lawless (quad tracks) (quad Helen Lawless Council (WUC meeting), Uplands Wicklow Photographs: issue of sheep being worried by hikers’ dogs, with Scarr being mentioned as a particular problem area. Additional signage was proposed. However, it was agreed that greater awareness and responsibility is needed amongst dog owners. This is something which may need a national campaign. In the meantime people were encouraged to view and share the classic 1980s TV Quad tracks on the summit advertisement Bonzo Wants To Go Out; you of Slievemaan in Wicklow can find it at www.bit.ly/bonzowants ■ 20 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 New climbing wall to open at UL in May

The new wall is predominantly for lead and top roped climbing and meets artist’s representation of the Ul climbing wall beside the running track at the University of limerick Sports arena By Martin Flood the Olympic standard for indoor rock climbing. This is a The new state-of-the-art truly unique wall, unlike no Club, which was established in to see the wall being built and climbing wall currently under other in Ireland. 1992, a climbing wall is the ideas come to life. It is a construction beside the UL’s Outdoor Pursuits Club considered a necessity. credit to UL Student Life, UL University of Limerick Sports supported a 2016 student Throughout the college week, Sport, UL Buildings and Arena is the latest addition to referendum which enabled it is where club members can Estates and all of the other the already impressive range the construction of this gather to climb and discuss all contributors and players in facility and many other sports of sports facilities at the things related to their shared this ground-breaking projects on campus. The new university. interest. Fuelled with the university facility. wall replaces the old ambition of its dedicated The design offers a unique The wall is designed as a 360 degrees of walled student facility. However, other climbers will be happy to climbing, somewhat learn that it will also be open resembling a gorge or cave, to the public and operate creating an almost enclosed commercially like other walls. feeling. The wall incorporates I am manager of the UL all elements of traditional Sport Adventure Centre and indoor climbing up to I have been awarded the Olympic standard, while also management of this facility. including a non-traditional I am looking forward to liaising SRT ledge (a facility for cave with the Outdoor Pursuits training) and an 18m vertical Club to address their needs, as section, making it currently well as being able to offer the tallest climbing wall in access to this amazing facility Ireland. It features: to other climbers in the Limerick area. • Total walled climbing: The wall is set to open in 708 sq m the Ul climbing wall building almost completed May 2020, with the ofﬁcial • Main wall: 484 sq m launch scheduled for • Boulder wall: 126 sq m bouldering wall and provides members, this club can only go September 2020, the start of • SRT ledge: 87 sq m the club with a new platform from strength to strength now. the new academic year and • Moon board: 11 sq m on which it can grow and The project has been in the the beginning of a new era for • Speed wall advance. pipeline since 2010. Now, a climbing at the University of • Three auto belays. For the Outdoor Pursuits decade on, it is truly rewarding Limerick ■

Martin Flood (centre) with members of the Outdoor Pursuits Club on the climbing wall construction site at University of limerick aerial view of Ul climbing wall under construction Photographs and other images: Martin Flood Collection images: and other Photographs Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 21 Photographs: Damien O’Sullivan (Sarah O’Mahony), Kevin Kilroy (Daniel Flavin) July 10 F Mountaineering Ireland will hold two Youth Trad Climbing Camps this summer. 22 Wednesday, July 8 Co Clare, The first willbein the Burren, progress their skills. outdoors andwant to already started to climb for climbers whomay have outdoors. the skillsneeded to climb like to beginlearningsomeof climb indoors butwho would opportunity for climbers who years. The campsare anideal thirteen and seventeen climbers aged between Camps are aimedat in the summer of 2020. camps will take placeagain delighted to announce these Mountaineering Ireland is Camps YOUTH TRAD CLIMBING CAMPS Two campswill take place. The campsare alsoideal The Youth Trad Climbing Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish th in 2019, in Youth TradClimbing of the reintroduction successful very the from on ollowing . The secondcamp and willrunfrom th to Friday, 15 July 13 and willrunfrom Monday, Glendalough, Co Wicklow, will take placein ■ on 016251117 or give hima call in the office [email protected] at Damien O’Sullivan, Ireland’s ClimbingOfficer, contact Mountaineering to book aplace, please and food. equipment, accommodation instruction, specialist The priceincludes camp is€275per climber. of 2:1. amazing instructional ratio instructors, givingan experienced climbing by five suitably qualified and climbers andwillbestaffed accommodate up to ten The cost of each three-day Both campscan th For more information and . th to Wednesday, July ■ by e-mail Daniel Flavin climbing in Glendalough Damien O’Sullivan Sarah O’Mahony climbing in the Burren reports Spring 2020 Spring Fair Head, Co Antrim CLIMBING MEETS 2020 Mountaineering Ireland is holding two climbing meets this summer. Damien O’Sullivan reports

limbers have two great meets to look forward to in the ﬁrst half of 2020, the Climbfest and the Fair CHead Climbers’ Meet. Both meets are organised by Mountaineering Ireland-afﬁliated clubs and are open to all climbers. The Climbfest, held in Donegal, is the longest-running climbers’ meet in Ireland. It is child-friendly and sociable, and is aimed at the average rock climber, beginners and indoor climbers who wish to extend their experience from resin to rock.

■ For more information on Climbfest, please go to: www.bit.ly/climbfest.

The Fair Head Climbers’ Meet, held at Fair Head, Co Antirm, has become probably the biggest event in the climbing calendar. This year’s meet is being organised by the Dal Riada Climbing Club and will take place over the June bank holiday weekend, that is from Friday, May 29th to Monday, June 1st.

■ For more information on the Fair Head Meet, please go to: www.bit.ly/fairheadmeet Climbing at last year’s Climbfest in Donegal

Photographs: Paul Kellagher (Fair Head, Co Antrim), Alan Tees (Climbfest) Tees Alan Antrim), Co Head, (Fair Paul Kellagher Photographs: ■ Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 23 Photograph: Rustam Caemigovskiy T Bouldering League series the results of the latest Irish Damien O’Sullivan 2019/2020 24 3 2 1 Senior Female 3 2 1 Senior Male 3 2 1 Masters Female 3 2 1 Masters Male 2019/2020 IrishBoulderingLeague: five rounds. competitor’s top four results from the the leaguewere basedoneach extremely difficult. The overall results of attempt, ranging from relatively easy to problems for allcompetitors to LEAGUE BOULDERING IRISH Nina Zhoie Michael O’Neill Caroline Murray Ricky Young Here are the results from the Each round featured thirty boulder Tom O’Neill Anna Weidman Viv Vanderholst Sarah Hoare Ciaran Scanlon Lynn Crampton Mark Scanlon Mari Gleeson Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish winter. five great venues over the five fun-filled rounds across Bouldering League he 2019/2020 Irish reports on took in 3 2 1 Female Youth B 3 2 1 Male Youth B 2 1 Female Youth A 3 2 1 Male Youth A Brian Hughes climbing in an Irish Bouldering League event Jessica McGarry Rhyna Conroy Eoin McLoughlin Sean O’Connor Jude McInerney Joshua Hoare Sarah O’Mahony George Lassov Ella Brown Faith Blaney Cillian Jennings future sponsors, itwillcontinue longinto the competitors, the host venues and the and with the continued supportof the bouldering competition in the world, reputedly the longest running Paul Innes help of their Irishsalesrepresentative, generously sponsored by Rab The IrishBoulderingLeague is The IrishBoulderingLeague is very ■ of Core Outdoors. Spring 2020 Spring with the YOUTH CLIMBING CLUB MEET Mountaineering Ireland is holding a Youth Climbing Club Meet in Donegal in June. Kevin Kilroy reports

ountaineering skills as a trad climber. weekend. Please and parental consent Ireland wishes Spaces are limited for complete and submit the form, if you wish to avail to invite instruction over the online application form of any support with rock Mmembers of climbing as part of the youth climbing clubs meet. Mountaineering from all over Ireland for a Ireland will get back to weekend of rock climbing you to confirm your place on the beautiful Cruit before the end of April Island in County Donegal 2020. There will be no fee th th on July 25 and 26 this for instruction over the year. weekend for successful Cruit is the perfect applicants. place for sea-cliff The link to the online climbing in a very family- application form can be friendly location – with found on the Events page golden sandy beaches, on hidden sheltered coves, granite sea-cliffs and www.mountaineering.ie. quality boulders… the island is a real haven for ■ If you have any outdoor adventure. questions about the For youth climbing club meet, please contact members who would like Kevin Kilroy at help to experience some [email protected]. of Cruit’s classic climbs, there will be several rock ■ Kevin Kilroy is climbing instructors on Mountaineering Ireland’s duty to help with setting Diarmaid Taylor on his first traditional lead climb, The Bosun's Ladder*** Youth Development top ropes, learning to lead Severe 4a on Neptune’s Wall at Malin Beg during a Hanging Rockers Youth Officer for Northern climb or developing your Climbing Club Meet in 2017 Ireland

Photograph: Kevin Kilroy Kevin Photograph: ■ Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 25 Photograph: Faith Dempsey completed behemoth of an about their recently interesting and funny lecture Tough Soles. Their talk was an Berry, and hikers CarlLangand DCU given by local climbers February 14 on arainy Friday night, huge successby allaccounts. challenges, the event was a 2020. Whatever the Dublin onFebruary 14-16 Climbing InterVarsities, heldin organising the 2020Irish Club City University Rock Climbing was the task aheadof Dublin seventy competitors. That over two hundred and twelve different teams and for three different venues, C Lauren Conlon 26 INTERVARSITY CLIMBING COMPETITION CLIMBING INTERVARSITY The proceedings kicked off when they were Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish otherwise known as th you’re organising especially when easy feat, planning isno ompetition , witha talk in (DCU Rock Climbing Club) reports on the 2020 Intervarsity Climbing Competition th Ellie , notched upanimpressive 137 fast. UCC’s SineadO’Connell began to comein thick and hit their stride, the tops them to liein. the afternoon, thus allowing more than a year) climbingin climbers (those climbingfor morning and the advanced year) competing in the (those climbingfor less than a to besplit, with the beginners this year, the competition had sheer numbers competing eager to climb. Due to the ready to go, everyone was thirty fantastic problems bouldering competition. With day’s agenda was the students filtering in. On the Dublin early inAwesome Walls climbing kicked off bright and Ireland. national waymarked trails in adventure, walking all the As the beginners began to The next morning, the with the first wave of bouldering round. after the completion of the Weidmann Burns categories, QUB’s Dominic Woods. top onnumber 30by Andrew including animpressive first problems were seeing tops, off withgusto. Soonall the advanced categories kicked beginners with179points. Butler beginners category, andOisín points in the female ready to go, everyone With With thirty fantastic In the afternoon, the bouldering problems was eager to climb and DCU’s own Anna from TUD led the male In the advanced were the leaders Competitor tackles strenuous move on North Face Wall category, itwas agood test of qualifying routes per competition. With two roped section of the another busy day, with the fun whileclimbing. impression of never losing the while givingalasting held everyone’s attention, hearted and inspiringspeech exception. Hisfunny, light- involved, andKillewas no of the weekend for everyone speaker isalways ahighlight rack. The Intervarsities’ routes witha terrifyingly small to hisfirst years projecting Honnold and hismeeting withAlex from his time boltinginBrazil many adventures, ranging lesson explored oneof Angus’ ‘Six Lessons of Climbing.’ Each speaker, AngusKille, andhis DCU to hear our Saturday bouldering, itwas off back to Sunday morningwas After ahectic day of mid-route onElCap, Spring 2020 Spring Female competitor in lead climbing competition

a climber’s skill level, with testament to the skills on men had a tenuous climb up the top spot in three of the each route testing the display from the new the face before a bold move four individual categories, endurance and technical climbers. over the overhanging lip of Josh Bucher in Male B, Sinead prowess of the competitors. Advanced climbers had the North Face wall. O’Connell in Female B, and The beginners had to deal plenty to consider on their Elena Kasantsidis in Female A. with some tricky pinches on routes, with the qualifying Mark Scanlon from Trinity women’s qualifier two, one routes stumping many Each final route was a was the only non-Corkonian competitor describing it as climbers below the final clip. joy to watch, from the of the victors, taking top spot the ‘Spicy Mustard’ route for The women had to contend in Male A. the category. Later visits to with a big dyno before a delicate cross through With a near clean sweep, the wall showed us the route delicate move up to an move on Male B to the it’s no surprise that unfriendly crimp. Likewise, the was graded 7a, which is a acrobatic starting University College Cork were the overall victors, taking the move on Male A heavy marble slab and prizes Male competitor gets up close and personal with bouldering problem provided by Tenzing Natural Energy, Trespass, Great These qualifying routes did Outdoors, Snow & Rock and their jobs as the finalists were Firehouse Pizza. led into isolation for the finals, By Sunday evening all were which was crowded since wrecked and ready to head several similar scores left us off on the sometimes long with twelve going head to journey home, with our great head in the Male B final. Each slab of a trophy away south final route was a joy to watch, for the year, and UCD getting from the delicate cross ready to host next year’s through move on Male B to events. All in all, a fantastic the acrobatic starting move weekend was had by on Male A, again showing the everyone who joined us, and great work from the setting overall the weekend was a team led by Chloe Condron. great display of how strong Our podiums were heavily the sport of climbing is at the Cork-based, with UCC taking college level

Photographs: Faith Dempsey Faith Photographs: ■ Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 27 ACCESS & CONSERVATION

Helen Donoghue, Chair of the Access & Conservation Committee, addressing the Access & Conservation Forum last November ACCESS & CONSERVATION NETWORK Mountaineering Ireland has successfully launched its new Access & Conservation Network. Helen Lawless reports

he purpose of Mountaineering Ireland’s new Access Challenges and solutions & Conservation Network is to allow members Much discussion centred around how increased recreational around the island to feed into policy development, activity in Ireland’s upland and coastal areas is in many respects submissions, or specific projects, without the a positive development but how it also presents challenges. commitment of being on Mountaineering Ireland’s Participants identified a range of solutions to respond to these Access & Conservation Committee. challenges, principally: TThe network is made up of a sample of people already involved in different ways in Mountaineering Ireland’s access • The need to underpin the social and economic benefits of and conservation work. The network should strengthen this outdoor recreation with an investment in the management work and improve the geographic reach of our activities. of outdoor recreation; A special forum to launch the network was held on Saturday, Appropriate investment to mitigate the impact of increased rd • November 23 , 2019, at Irish Sport HQ, Blanchardstown, Dublin. activity on the natural environment; It was attended by 47 people who had travelled from all corners The need for a better balance between the rights and of the country (a similar number of people were interested but • concerns of property owners and the responsibilities of unable to attend on the day). recreational users; The format for the day was highly interactive, with a lot of The need to establish and promote standards of good discussion in small groups. Information on selected topics was • practice and to build expertise in recreation development presented on a series of wall charts to which participants and management; added their comments and suggestions. The event was designed and facilitated by members of • The need for Mountaineering Ireland to build political Mountaineering Ireland’s Access & Conservation Committee, support for investment in hillwalking and climbing and under guidance from new member Noel Caffrey. Active outdoor recreation generally. engagement by participants generated a buzz which lasted throughout the day. Poll on access At the start of the forum attendees participated in a short poll on access. The results are shown below:

1. What is your view on the current state of access versus ﬁve years ago?

Votes Votes

Much worse 0 A little better 11

Worse 9 Better 1

A little worse 11 Hugely better 0

The same/no change 13 Don’t know 1

Access & Conservation Committee member Orla Prendergast outlining It is notable that across five years, which in terms of access is Mountaineering Ireland’s Helping the a short period, 20 participants believed the situation had got Hills initiative on upland path erosion worse, against 12 believing it had got better. Photographs: Patrick O’Sullivan (Forum), Frank McMahon (Orla Prendergast) McMahon (Orla Frank (Forum), O’Sullivan Patrick Photographs: 28 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 2. How confident are you that access will improve in the next five years?

-5 -4 -3 -2 -1 No change +1 +2 +3 +4 +5 0 0 3 9 9 2 13 7 2 0 0

There was almost a 50/50 spilt in response to this question, with 22 people confident that the situation will improve and 23 not confident of improvement, which is a cause for some concern. Opportunities A sense of opportunity permeated the forum. Participants identified growing recognition of the health benefits of outdoor Participants in Mountaineering Ireland’s Access & Conservation Forum activities and greater appreciation of the natural environment as creating a positive context within which Mountaineering Ireland could pursue the solutions identified above. Relationships Ireland’s upland areas are vital natural assets. At a time of It was evident from the discussions that achievement of climate crisis, and with traditional hillfarming in serious decline, Mountaineering Ireland’s objectives in relation to access and there could be a new, valuable role for upland farmers in protecting the mountain environment is dependent on a variety improving the natural resilience of our upland landscapes. More of relationships. Looking after key relationships takes time, and sustainable management of upland areas would enhance the this may have implications for the future allocation of resources provision of vital public goods, such as water supply, flood within Mountaineering Ireland. attenuation and carbon storage. Mountaineering Ireland will feed this into consultation on future supports for land management. Suggested actions Towards the end of the forum participants were asked to say Responsibilities what actions they believed should be a priority over the next The assumption of responsibility by hillwalkers and climbers was twelve months. These included: a recurring theme. This embraces taking responsibility for our • Pursue the indemnity arrangement promised for Mountain own actions, especially in relation to access and relations with Access Areas; landowners; respecting the natural environment; and being Raise conservation knowledge amongst Mountaineering conscious of making a contribution to the host community. • Ireland members; While there is reasonably good awareness of these Help to achieve the effective running of Comhairle na Tuaithe; responsibilities, there was a strong sense that more needs to be • done to translate awareness into action, and to engender wider • Continue to pursue the Mountain Access model of agree access; acceptance of these responsibilities. To be effective in this area, Mountaineering Ireland may require • Develop the skills base for dealing with upland path erosion; additional expertise and capacity in communications. • Cooperate with other recreational users of the hills; • Develop relationships with influential groups with a shared Quality outdoor experiences interest, e.g. Fáilte Ireland; One session focused on capturing the characteristics of quality • Raise awareness of the value of the upland environment, of outdoor recreation experiences. The results demonstrated a and tie this into the climate change agenda; strong link between the quality of the natural environment and • Seek a more rounded or integrated approach to managing the quality of experience enjoyed. Mountaineering Ireland will upland areas; advocate for further research on this linkage as it is important to • Look at how to fund recreation: impacts need to be paid for; protect the attributes that provide people with positive outdoor • Get political: support members to lobby politicians on our key experiences. issues; • Recruit a marketing and education person to get messages out to a wider audience. Conclusion The event was successful in bringing the Access & Conservation Network to life, informing network members and securing feedback on Mountaineering Ireland’s work in the areas of access and conservation. Participants were supportive of the current direction of Mountaineering Ireland’s work in these core areas, although it did highlight the need for greater activity on a number of aspects. All outputs from the forum will be considered by Mountaineering Ireland’s Access & Conservation Committee and used to inform future work plans within the framework of Mountaineering Ireland’s current strategic plan. Jim Sheehan, Aine McGirl, Phil Fitzpatrick and Anne Brindley engaged in A more detailed report of the 2019 Access & Conservation discussion on the future of Ireland’s mountains Forum is available on www.mountaineering.ie ■ Photographs: Helen Lawless Photographs: Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 29 SLOVAKIA

Furskotská Dolina, a national nature reserve in the Furskotská Valley A TRIP TO THE HIGH TATRAS

Following a successful visit to the Krkonoše range in the Czech Republic in 2018, Galway Bay Hill Walking Club visited the High Tatras of northern Slovakia, on the border with Poland, in September 2019. Paul Grifﬁn reports

he Galway Bay Hill Getting there priced. Transport prices are mountain trails in the low hills Walking Club is a The High Tatras region of competitive, with a seven-day and uplands initially, taking on small club that was northern Slovakia is within train ticket coming in at some peaks later in our stay. founded in 2016 by driving distance of Kraków. €14.50. We found that the a group of like- Therefore, we flew to Kraków cost of living in Slovakia was Day 1 Stary Smokovec mindedT individuals who enjoy lower than at home, making a and had a local taxi company to Slieszsky Dom spending time together while week’s break competitive in lined up for the one and a half We set off from Stary exploring the beauty of the relation to other regions in hour journey to the Tatras area. Smokovec along a well-marked Irish countryside. Membership Europe. Once we had a plan We arrived on the first Sunday mountain trail in a comfortable is currently in the mid- for the day, we accessed the of September and spent a full 20°C. This section gave us twenties, with ten or twelve start point for the walk week there. Our base was in exceptional views over the low people going out on any given without too much difficulty by Stary Smomovec, a small Tatra range to a height of walk. We normally walk getting the train to the nearest town set in the foothills. We 1,670m. We saw some bluebell together and are fortunate to stop to the walk, which usually varieties and many other have an experienced leader stayed in a small hotel, took less than thirty minutes. amongst us who can navigate Penzion Raimund, 2km away alpine flowers which we hadn’t and also provide information in the village of Vysoke Tatry Level of difficulty seen previously. There was also about the geology and the and travelled throughout the an abundance of wild Photographs: Gerry Reilly (for Galway Bay Hillwalking Club) Hillwalking Bay Galway (for Reilly Gerry Photographs: The Tatra mountain range is a flora and fauna of the areas region by train, as it was blueberries scattered along the westwards extension of the we visit. accessible and reasonably walking trails, which we Carpathian Mountains and enjoyed picking and eating as offers an alpine experience in we went along. terms of mountain height and After three hours walking, we the general environment. arrived at Slieszsky Dom Some of the mountains there chalet, where refreshments are over 2,300m high, so a were consumed and reasonable level of fitness is appreciated before returning required. The most difficult by an alternative trail to Stary climb (see Day 4, below) Smokovec. surpassed our experience on Connemara’s Twelve Bens in terms of the difficulty level, Day 2 Strbske Pleso while still being within our to Tri Studnicky fitness level. The start of the Strbske Pleso is a well-known walks was usually some ski resort in the winter season distance above sea level, with and is popular with Slovakian 800m being the norm. Our tourists for rambling in the Slieszsky Dom chalet approach was to walk on off-season. We had some low 30 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 cloud and drizzle that day, and for a group photo. for safety we stayed below the On our return, we were cloud. We walked into a lucky to spot a wild brown forested hill area, passing the bear in the distance, delightful Jamske Pleso, the unfortunately just a little too second largest glacial lake on far away to photograph, but the Slovak side of the High it gave the walk an extra Tatras, and then returned to sense of excitement on what the ski resort. We could see was our most challenging day Rysy (2,503m) looming over us. to date.

One of many cascades visited

Vodopády Studeného By chance, we were there for Potoka (‘Cold Creek the Hunters’ Festival, a Waterfalls’). The leisurely day biannual event. We sampled gave us a chance for some local venison and various mindful reflection, as we stews, as the Hunt Club savoured memories of our members in full hunting outfits week walking in the mighty provided substantial food, outdoors, with some fine which was consumed al fresco food and drink to keep us in the old town. We also saw going throughout. some stylish weddings going Fox seen on day 3 The last day saw us on (apparently quite common mingling with the locals in on Saturday afternoons); they Poprad, a medium sized had a friendly air, and on one Day 3 Stary Day 4 Strbske Pleso town about half an hour occasion we were invited to Smokovec to Téryho to Bystra Lavka away by train from our base. toast the bride! ■ Chata This was a challenging climb, This day was a serious but which took us past the lovely climb up to Téryho impressive Skok Waterfall. Chata (2,019m). The good From there, we continued up weather held, which made it to Bystra Lavka (2,320m), much easier, as the terrain was one of the highest saddles in dry. The hills were rocky and the Tatras, with magnificent there was a forested valley, views over Furkotská Valley. described in one guidebook as The route was exceptionally one of the prettiest valleys in steep in places, requiring the Tatras. We all agreed that some scrambling and the use this was a ‘peach’ of a walk, as of fixed chains, and only the one of us described it on our women and Ulrich (who led Facebook page. We saw some the hike) took on that beautiful waterfalls, namely challenge. Vodopády Studeného Potoka The train journey back was apparently quieter than usual, (‘Cold Creek Waterfalls’). with some people nodding We came across a few wild off. Later that night we men foxes, which appeared to be sat in awe as the women on the lookout for an easy described the trials and Skok Waterfall meal. They were tame and tribulations of their day with friendly. great gusto. After four hours climbing up AUTHOR Paul Griffin is originally from Castlegregory, through the beautiful valley, Co Kerry, where he grew up in the shadow of Mount surrounded by some Day 5 Tataranska Brandon and Beenoskee. His interest in hillwalking awesome scenery, we arrived Lesne to Herienok has grown over the past twelve years, with regular hikes in the Maamturks, the Twelve Bens and the at the highest ‘chata’ (or small This was a leisurely hike along Burren. He now lives outside Galway city. The Galway café) in the High Tatras, called a river valley to round off the Bay Hillwalking Club can be contacted regarding Téryho Chata. We stopped week, with all walkers in membership at [email protected]. there for some refreshments, attendance. We came across THANKS Thanks to Michal and his staff at Penzion taking in the marvellous the flat riverbed with the Raimund for a magnificent stay, and to the Milan scenery and the opportunity beautiful cascades called Markoci taxi service. Photographs: Gerry Reilly (for Galway Bay Hillwalking Club) Hillwalking Bay Galway (for Reilly Gerry Photographs: Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 31 HIMALAYAS INET

Juving School, in the Solu Khumbu District of Nepal, was established with aid from the Irish Nepalese Educational Trust HAPPY GIVING BACK FOR 20 YEARS The Irish Nepalese Educational Trust is celebrating twenty years of giving back to Nepal, with schools, community and environmental development businesses to its credit. Chris Avison reports

nyone who has between Irish mountaineers mountains and those who live villages of Phuleli, Rapchha, trekked or climbed and trekkers and the Nepalis, among them, INET emerged in Nunthala, Kophu, Juving, Waku, in Nepal will know it without whose help their trips 1999. and Hatemu as well as is one of the most would not have been possible. INET’s main focus is the community houses in the beautiful, yet one of These hardworking, resourceful education of young children, villages of Chhee and Phuleli. theA least developed, countries and cheerful mountain people together with associated INET also supports research in the world. There are few make a deep impression on all community and into reforestation and growth roads in the mountainous who meet them. Out of this environmental development. of sustainable cash crops; this districts, although this is slowly serendipitous association Schools for infants have been led to the introduction of changing. The steepness of the between those who love the built in the Solu Khumbu beekeeping this year. terrain makes life very difficult for the farmers who work the land to feed their families. Many of them also try to eke Please support the 20-year anniversary booklet out a tenuous living from To celebrate INET’s twenty years of portering and assisting tourists work by dedicated volunteers in on their Himalayan trekking Ireland and their counterparts in and climbing holidays. Nepal, Chris Avison, one of the Twenty years ago, the Irish voluntary directors of INET, has Nepalese Educational Trust produced a booklet elaborating INET’s (INET) felt that supporting activities. Chris says: “It is wonderful educational projects was an how generous contributions from appropriate way to give people in Ireland can make something back to the people considerable improvements to the of Solu Khumbu, whose work villages in Nepal’s Solu Khumbu with the first Irish Everest (and District. I really think this deserves subsequent) expeditions had recognition.” been so significant. Education Copies of INET’s 20-year is the key to combating anniversary booklet are available by contacting Chris Avison at [email protected]. Also, if poverty and to empowering you can help INET continue its work in Nepal, please donate through www.idonate.ie or send people to improve their lives. a cheque (euro or sterling) to the INET Honorary Treasurer, Valerie Burris, at 70 Woodlawn Some strong and lasting Park, Dublin D14 TH28. friendships have been made Photographs: Chris Avison Chris Photographs:

32 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Small electricity schemes and irrigation, together with environmental education, greatly enhance opportunities for children and adults alike in these remote villages. What began as an initiative of the Irish mountaineering community has found good-hearted support from the wider Irish community. Without generous contributions from Irish individuals, schools, clubs, groups and other organisations, none of this would have been possible. INET is an entirely ‘hands-on’ voluntary charity, registered in Ireland. A small team of Solu Khumbu view from Juving directors, who are all volunteers, fund all of their own expenses for the charity’s people of team mates from Ireland to visit this very activities, including their travel these high and some attractive area, he says: “There to Nepal. Himalayan German is no doubt that the work of Dawson Stelfox, MBE, who valleys. This is friends, he INET over the last 20 years has in 1993 became the first in no small part completed greatly improved the prospects Irishman to climb Mount due to the his education of these remarkable people. It is Everest, is INET’s patron. resourcefulness and qualified even more important for those Dhana Bahadur Rai Commenting recently on its and ingenuity of as a teacher. of us who understand and progress, he said: “Over the last Dhana Bahadur Rai Following a visit to value the power of mountain few years, and in particular and his team, and it is Germany in the landscapes to go and visit after the devastating 2015 always humbling to witness.” 1990s, Dhana recognised Nepal and help them build a earthquakes, I have visited all Dhana Bahadur Raiis from the value of kindergarten sustainable, 21st-century of the INET-supported projects Phuleli village, and he was also schools in rural communities. mountain community.” in Nepal and come away each on the successful 1993 Irish Working closely with INET, he Commending the successful time with an overwhelming Everest Expedition, when he organised the building of association with INET, Dhana is sense of how our relatively was chef at Advance Base schools for infants in the very enthusiastic: “We are very modest funds have made Camp. aforementioned remote Solu grateful to the Irish Nepalese such a significant difference to After the expedition, with Khumbu villages, well away Educational Trust and all the the lives and futures of the financial help from his Irish from the popular tourist other Irish supporters who have routes. helped us so much. All your Dawson adds: “The Solu remarkable educational Khumbu has historically not contributions and valuable attracted the attention that efforts in the lap of the Mount the areas closer to Everest Everest region have become have; the villages away from a glowing light in our rural the main tourist trails still lag villages. behind in investment. This is “All these efforts are the main motivation behind changing Himalayan rural lives our latest infants’ school at for the better, by connecting us Hangkhula village, which we to the ever-globalising world. will officially open next April.” We are very grateful that you Encouraging more have been able to make such a mountaineers and trekkers big difference to our lives” ■

➤ Chris Avison is a volunteer director of the Irish Nepalese Educational Trust (INET). He is a long-standing member of Mountaineering Ireland, the British Mountaineering Council, the Wayfarers and Mountain Meitheal. He is also a former editor Walking to school of the Irish Mountain Log. Photographs: Chris Avison Chris Photographs: Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 33 WINTER SKILLS

Heading up towards Ben Nevis on day three SCOTTISH WINTER MEET 2020

It seems you do not have to go as far as the Himalayas to experience 185km/hour winds and to be exposed to the risk of avalanches and frost nip. Winter mountaineering in Scotland may allow you to experience similarly challenging weather conditions. Aron Barry describes his participation in this year’s Mountaineering Ireland Winter Meet, which was based in Onich, Scotland, in February.

knowledge to us over the After a half hour of being no debris as evidence. It was three days. battered by the wind and rain, a wet slide, caused by the When I looked in the back we gained some degree of weight of the snow itself as it of the car for my gloves, my shelter as we progressed got heavier with warming least experienced friend had upward alongside a torrent of temperatures. already donned his climbing water moving downward We moved on up cautiously he rental car was helmet, balaclava and ski through the V-shaped valley by the side of the avalanche shaking as we sat goggles. The helmet was that we were climbing on our path, with everyone’s feet at a viewing point sitting four inches above his way to the corrie. coming down a little bit in Glen Coe valley, head, as his hat had a big After an hour, we were lighter now on the snow staring across at bauble on top. This caused walking through wet, heavy beneath us. the chin strap to be firmly snow. An hour and a half in, Coire nan As we rounded the last bedded into his balaclava- we stopped for a quick Lochan,T or what we could see steep ground before the covered throat. With the ski breather. We were just below of the corrie with the storm corrie, we were met with a goggles also partially askew the corrie and had reached force winds of Storm Ciara view of the peak, Stob Coire on his face, he looked the first decent depth of shrieking around us. We were nan Lochan (1,115m) and a ridiculous. His rucksack was snow. My friend with the starting our first morning of a gale so strong that it would too small for all the winter absorbent trousers was three-day Winter rip the nose hairs clean out of gear, so it seemed a saturated, but said he was your nostrils. More striking Mountaineering course with necessary evil that he should still warm. It had been a mild than the peak and the wind, Mountaineering Ireland. wear the gear he had brought. morning, but temperatures There were three of us At that stage, we were all were set to drop as the day however, was the shear doing the course with happy out. The place was so continued. abundance of avalanches. experience of winter spectacular. We progressed along by the Every gully and face visible mountaineering, which So, with our noses so close river for another couple of was marked with the track of ranged from my own climbs to the ground that they were hundred metres. Then, just a snow slide, slides with on grade 1/11 winter routes in scrapping tar off the car park before stepping out onto it, headwalls of four or five feet Ireland to virtually nil. Chris in an effort to avoid getting we saw the slide path of a that could easily hurt you and Higgins, a relaxed, gangly and swept away, and one of my grade I/II avalanche. It was even bury you. quick-to-smile outdoors friends in a pair of trousers hard to spot. The fresh Chris sat us down and we instructor from the Lake that were no more waterproof avalanche had gone straight went through the dynamics District, had been tasked with than a box of teabags, we set into the river below us and of these slides and the trying to impart some off for Coire nan Lochan. had been consumed, leaving weather that had led to them Photograph: Aron Barry Collection Barry Aron Photograph: 34 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 occurring. This was an ripped clean off my head, as I invaluable lesson, as although had turned away from a gust, I had done avalanche courses and were now more than likely in Canada, seeing a snowpack somewhere near Aberdeen. similar to what you can get in Our inexperienced and ill- Ireland releasing so readily equipped friend was cold. The and with such volume made lack of sound waterproof gear me realise that we should had taken its toll on him. With take our own coverings of everything wet, and the snow in Ireland a bit more dropping temperature and seriously, when we are storm force winds, there was venturing out on them. no way for him to retain heat. As we plodded across the My other friend was also corrie in snow thigh-deep in beginning to get cramps in the places, the cold began to set cold. Even Chris had fallen into in. Temperatures were a snow-covered hole among dropping. The wind was the boulders and twisted his cutting, carrying sharp snow knee. into your face so strongly Although we had clearly that, for every five paces you already learnt some invaluable took, you would be pushed lessons, everyone was still back two. The frequent determined to get some skills- howling gusts made based learning in, as we had everyone, including Chris, halt made it that far. In the and squat on the ground until following hour, we set about they had passed. Later, we digging bucket seats, learning found out that the wind had how to do body belays, setting been recorded at 115mph snow anchors and dragging (185kmph) on nearby Aonach each other around the slope. Mor (1,221m). By the end of the hour, the Course instructor Chris Higgins under the North Face of Ben Nevis We were heading for a rest of us were toast. However, piece of snow among all of our inexperienced friend was the avalanche debris that shaking uncontrollably. We 185kmph gusts back down very sheltered Glen Nevis. would be safe to work on. Half were now worried about his onto the trail leading to the Then, the final day took us in an hour later, when we well-being, as he had started car. under the imposing north reached the base of the mumbling his words. So, we The following two days of face of Ben Nevis to practice chosen slope, the party was a fired everything into our the course were slightly less the skills we had learnt and fragment of its former self. rucksacks and were blown out epic. We had a solid day of to observe the changing My ski goggles had been of Coire nan Lochan by the rope work in the stunning and snow pack. We were well Photograph: Aron Barry Collection (Chris Higgins), Jonny Parr (April Heaney) (April Parr Jonny Higgins), (Chris Collection Barry Aron Photograph: prepared for conditions by that final day and had learnt a lot from Chris, who was very receptive to all of the annoying questions I had. The experience is one that I would highly recommend to anyone who wants to get out and do some more serious routes in the winter. Scotland is sublime, even blessing us with sunshine as we made our way back through the snow-covered Highlands on the return journey to Glasgow. As to the frost-nipped team member; let’s just say that his soaking wet underpants, along with the freezing temperatures and a gusting windchill factor of minus ten, had him very worried by the end of the It wasn’t all bad weather during the meet, as evidenced by this picture of participant April Heaney on Aonach Eagach first day! ■ Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 35 HIKING

THREE PENINSULAS MOUNTAIN HIKE

Aidan Ennis hikes across the mountains of the Beara, Iveragh and Dingle peninsulas

e were falling. Two brothers, tethered Above: I looked at the channel in between the Beara and together, falling together. We had Carrauntoohil and Iveragh peninsulas – the Kenmare River – and climbed Cima Grande in the Sexten Beenkeragh from immediately I went digging for the 1:50,000 maps. It Dolomites via the Dulfer Route, up Caher. looked possible. I called the route the Great the towering West Face. On the Kenmare River Horseshoe. summit we enjoyed the warm Below: The late * * * * * * Wsunshine and spectacular views before descending. Colm Ennis checks The descent was going to end in catastrophe, with out the route on The following summer of 2011, my brother Colm both of us battling for our lives in the gravest situation the Campanile and I headed to the Brenta Dolomites for a traverse possible. Basso in the of Via delle Bocchette, an Alpine-style via ferrata. En Brenta Dolomites. route, we climbed Campanile Basso (2,883m) and * * * * * * planned to ﬁnish our Dolomites expedition in Tre One year earlier, I was in Killarney after a weekend hiking trip and had bought a new large-scale map of Kerry. A route immediately jumped off the map. It was a continuous line of mountains, starting from Dursey Island on the tip of the Beara peninsula and following the Cork-Kerry border along the Slieve Miskish, Caha, Shehy and Derrynasaggart Mountains to Caherbarnagh. From there, the mountains swing abruptly westward to continue over the Paps, Mangerton, Mullaghanattin and the Dunkerron Mountains, all the way to Waterville.

➤ Aidan Ennis is a long-distance ultralight hiker who has walked and climbed extensively in Ireland, Scotland, the Alps, the Dolomites and the Nepal Himalaya. In addition to hikes described in this article, he has completed the 800- km Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne, the Chamonix to Zermatt Haute Route (200km) and an epic ten- day hike on the Scottish Cape Wrath Trail (326km) with his brother, the late Colm Ennis. Photographs: Aidan Ennis Photographs: 36 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Brandon Bay Three Peninsulas Hike • Tralee long-distance hike route: Más an Tiompán Castlegregory ...... • Piaras Mór Fermoyle 952m • Brandon Brandon Pk • • 30 Kilometres • Beenoskee826m • N86 Baurtregaum Gearhane Knocknakilton • • Caherconree • • Lough Anscaul SLIEVE MISH MTNS Gallarus • Sliabh Mhacha• Ré N70 Cnapán Mór Cnoc na• Stuaice Castlemaine Dingle N86 • Annascaul Castlemaine Ventry Hbr Milltown N22 Killorglin N72 KERRY Rossbehy Laune N70 Dingle Bay Lough KillArNey Millstreet Caragh Lough Drung Glenbeigh Gap of Leane Hill• Dunloe N22 Cahernabarnagh • THE REEKS • 681m Kells Glenbeigh Muckross THE PAPS Knocknadobar • Horseshoe Carrauntoohil • • 690m Glencar • Lough Guitane 694m • 1040m • Meenteog• Caher Black Valley 659m• Clydagh Coomacarrea774m • • Bridia Valley • 840m • Crohane 649m Broaghnabinnia 688m Colly Mangerton • 461m Mullaghanish Moll’s Gap • 611m Cloon Lough • Knockbwee Cahersiveen • 371m 774m Glas Valencia Is N71Loughs Knockbrack Knockavohaun • Mullaghanattin DERRYNASAGGARTS 667m Kenmare Finnararagh N70 N71 Coomcallee• 650m Bealick Waterville SHEHY MTNS535m • • Gouganebarra 418m • 542m Lake • 706mKnockboy Beenrour Eagle’s Hill Turner’s Lough Rock Nagarriva • CAHA• MTNS658m Glengarriﬀ Knockowen CORK Knocknagree• 588m • 685m Maulin Hungry Hill Bantry Castletownbere • 491m Bantry Bay Allihies SLIEVEKnockoura MISKISH Bear Is Dursey Island • 253m Map: Cóilín MacLochlainn Sheep’s Head

Cime di Lavaredo with a climb on Cima Grande Above: Route In unimaginable pain, Colm dragged himself to a (2,999m), the central and tallest of these three iconic of the Three higher vantage point where he was able to attract the mountains. Peninsulas attention of the two climbers we had seen earlier. It was a beautiful day, we had the mountain to Mountain Hike. They were from the Czech Republic and, with their ourselves and the climbing was superb. On the help, the alarm was raised. We only ever learned one summit, we could see two climbers on Cima Piccola, of their names – Jakob. opposite us. The local mountain rescue team, Soccorso Alpino We started our abseils to descend to a notch Alto Adige, and a rescue helicopter with a doctor on between the two mountains. We reached our last board were on a training exercise nearby that day. abseil point; the ground was twenty metres below. I was airlifted just before dark. Over thirty mountain Colm recalled that at about halfway down the abseil rescue personnel risked their lives to save our lives something happened to the rope. He checked that night. quickly; his abseil device was engaged. We had both I woke up in intensive care, on the flat of my back, checked the anchor. It had failed. Colm was falling to with wires, tubes and drains variously attached to my the ground below. body. I was clipped into the anchor. I have no memory of * * * * * * the fall. I lay unconscious on the rock-strewn ground In time, the Great Kenmare River Horseshoe as darkness approached. became a goal for my recovery. First, I had to get Having survived the fall, I would not survive a cold through the next hour, the next day and the next night on the mountain. I had broken my back, pelvis, week. For those two weeks in intensive care, the sacrum, left upper arm, left orbit and most of my doctors in Belluno’s San Martino Hospital fought ribs. My spleen was bleeding, there was a deep gash hard to keep me alive. on my right temple, and I had a very serious double- After an air ambulance back to Ireland, and a spell lung injury. in University Hospital Waterford, I walked into my Colm regained consciousness. His back was home with one crutch. The next day, I struggled to get broken and his left arm shattered into uncountable my spinal brace on, but got out of bed and carefully fragments. Somehow he managed to locate the made my way to the kitchen. I placed a capsule in the phone in my small climbing backpack, but the coffee machine and pressed the button. The coffee enclosed space between the two mountains had no slowly filled the cup and stopped. A rich crema phone reception. It was a desperate situation. settled on top and a wonderful aroma instantly filled ▲ Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 37 HIKING THIS WAS GOING TO BE THE LONGEST CONTINUOUS MOUNTAIN HIKING ROUTE I HAD EVER ATTEMPTED.

In June 2018, I returned to Killarney. The mountain hike from Killarney to Dingle took four days to complete, over a distance of 159 kilometres. I finished the walk, but the route still felt unfinished. A continuous ‘through hike’ of the three peninsulas now became my dream, to link the mountains of the Beara, Iveragh and Dingle peninsulas in one continuous hiking expedition. the room. Then, without warning, I broke down Above: Early * * * * * * crying, not because of the effort or the pain… but morning soft On June 1st, 2019, I stood looking over at Dursey because I was alive. light and Island, Co Cork. It was my third time to begin the Great Eleven months of recovery, physio and training shadows on the Kenmare River Horseshoe. The cable car took me over later I was keen to do a long-distance hike again. I Beara peninsula. to the island and I quickly made my way to Cnoc Bólais was not yet ready to tackle the Great Kenmare River (252m). There was no view, and low cloud enveloped Horseshoe, and I was uncertain how my back would Below: Lough the summit signal tower. Thirty minutes later I was cope with a pack on it. Garagarry and back on the cable car and ready to start the hike in I devised a route from Strangford, Co Down, along Lough Leane, earnest. Emily, my wife, and Alex were waiting for me the Lecale coastal trail to Newcastle, over the Killarney, viewed on the mainland with hot coffee. Mourne Mountains to Newry and along the Cooley from Stoompa I thanked Emily for her support for my crazy Mountains to Carlingford, Co Louth, a distance of 183 Mountain, near expedition. Emily reassured me that it wasn’t crazy: kilometres. I completed it in five days. Just over a Mangerton. “It’s just who you are.” month later, my son, Alex Jakob, was born. With that endorsement for my hike ringing in my ears, I said my goodbyes and set off. Emily may not * * * * * * have thought it was crazy, but I knew what was ahead. The following year, two years to the day after the It was going to be the longest continuous mountain accident, I ran a marathon and finally felt ready to backpacking hiking route I had ever attempted. I was tackle the Great Kenmare River Horseshoe. It was not taking anything for granted and, like any good June 2013. adventure, there was no guarantee that I was going to However, everything did not go to plan and I complete the route. shortened the route. It was still 150 kilometres and My main strategy for keeping injury-free was to still a horseshoe, but not the route I had originally restrict my distance to 36km to 40km per day and to envisaged. Maybe I was just not ready, not strong keep my pace steady. enough? I was going to have to reassess and return. * * * * * * Day 1 38.8km My first summit was Knockgour (488m) in the Slieve In June 2017, I stood on the shore of Lough Leane Miskish Mountains. I then followed the ridge to in Killarney after ten days of hillwalking. I had finally completed the Great Kenmare River Horseshoe. It had taken me seven days to complete, and six wild camps. I continued for another three days to the remote Black Valley at the back of Killarney National Park. The complete 366-kilometre route that ended in Killarney looked like two giant horseshoes when viewed on a satellite map. I called this ten-day mountain backpacking route the Beara-Iveragh Double Horseshoe. I knew immediately on reaching Killarney that my hike was finished, but not complete. The MacGillycuddy’s Reeks ridge beckoned and, from the summit of Carrauntoohil, the Dingle peninsula would be clearly visible, ‘the finest of the great mountain- promontories,’ as once observed by the famous Irish botanist Robert Lloyd Praeger (1865-1953). I would have to return and continue the expedition, which for me had now become the Three Peninsulas Mountain Hike. Photographs: Aidan Ennis Photographs: 38 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Miskish Mountain before stopping at a waterfall on Above: View enormous telecommunications mast at Mullaghanish the slopes of Maulin. I had been walking in heavy from (649m) and boiled up a coffee. A short distance later, at rain for several hours at that stage and was glad to Finnararagh the head of the Clydagh valley, the route reached its climb into my tent. looking back most easterly point, above Millstreet. along the ridge After climbing Caherbarnagh (681m), I finally left the Day 2 36.4km (new total: 75km) towards invisible Cork-Kerry border to reach the twin peaks of Maulin was my first summit on day two, followed Mullaghanattin. The Paps (694m), before stopping at a wet but quickly by Knocknagree and a descent to the Glas passable wild camp on the lower slopes of Crohane. Loughs. From these lakes, I would be following the Cork-Kerry border along a mountain ridgeline for the Day 5 39km (new total: 194km) next three days. The southern end of the slender Crohane Lake was my By 9.00am, I had reached my high point for the day, first major feature on day five, followed by a steep Hungry Hill (685m), making my arrival time at the climb up to Lough Fineen. From the summit of Healy Pass perfect. I thoroughly enjoyed a morning Stoompa (705m) another approaching heavy shower coffee and a chat with Donal, the owner of Don’s was visible over Killarney. Mountain Cabin, nestled into the mountainside just I walked along the cliff line above the scenic Horses below the pass. Glen to Mangerton (839m), before following a necklace I thanked Donal for the hot drink and set off, of lakes across Dromderalough Mountain. initially up to Knockowen (658m), past the lakes of Windy Gap and the wide-open spaces of the Glas Ram’s Hill and along the Caha Mountains, in very Loughs led me over to Moll’s Gap. It was late in the day, windy conditions, to Turner’s Rock Tunnel. and Moll’s Gap was deserted. My camp for the night was just another four I pushed on and followed a small mountain road kilometres away at the peaceful and exotic-sounding up the Owenreagh valley, finally reaching the Lough Nagarriva (Irish: Loch na Garbha). Ballaghbeama Gap as the mountains darkened around me. Day 3 37km (new total: 112km) It was a beautiful Monday morning; soft light and Day 6 26km (new total: 220km) long shadows cast along the ridge. The unmistakably It was a beautiful morning as I climbed the long, lush Garinish Island could clearly be seen in undulating ridge to Mullaghanattin (773m). I stopped Glengarriff Harbour below. to take off my jacket, and I put on sunscreen for the I paused briefly, crossing a small mountain road at first time since beginning the hike. Moments later, I was Priest’s Leap, before climbing Knockboy (706m) in hastily grabbing my waterproof jacket as a heavy hail the Shehy Mountains, County Cork’s highest point. shower covered the ground in a white, icy carpet. During the walk to Bealick (535m), just above After the shower passed, there were spectacular Gougane Barra, the weather settled back to regular views of the Beara peninsula, the Kenmare River and heavy showers, a pattern that would continue for most of the mountains on the Iveragh peninsula. many days. I continued along the ridge to Finnararagh (667m) I continued hiking along the Cork-Kerry county and on to Coomcallee (648m), past countless high borders over undulating ground, before calling it a day mountain lakes. With views stretching across the bay on Knockbwee summit (461m) in the Derrynasaggart to Dursey Island, this was one of my favourite sections Mountains. of the walk so far. By the time I had arrived at Lough Sallagh, Day 4 43km (new total: 155km) overlooking Lough Currane and Waterville, the weather I sheltered from the wind and rain below the had turned cold and wet again. ▲ Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 39 HIKING IT WAS AN EPIC ADVENTURE THROUGH SOME OF THE MOST REMOTE AND BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPES IMAGINABLE.

to the south and the Dingle peninsula to the north. Below me was Lough Cummeenapeasta and, further along, sunshine illuminated vibrant green patches of the Hags Glen and glistened off Lough Callee and Lough Gouragh. I reached Carrauntoohil (1,038m) at 7.00pm and started the descent to Lough Eighter via Caher (975m). Across the bay, the sun was setting behind the mountains of Dingle, colouring the sky in a smouldering orange glow. Day 7 17km (new total: 1237km) Above: The halfway point of the hike was Waterville. I had View from Day 11 38km (new total: 379km) This was the link section to the Dingle peninsula. planned to arrive early in the day, sort out my gear Knocknagantee, The route ahead was a road walk to Killorglin before and restock my food supplies. It would almost be a looking over continuing to Milltown and on to Castlemaine. rest day. Sneem, with the An hour after leaving Castlemaine I reached I followed the ridgeline to Eagles Hill (549m) and Beara peninsula in Knockmoyle (427m). The link was complete: I was on on to Beenrour (418m), before descending into the distance. the Slieve Mish mountains and at the start of the Waterville at midday. I had completed the Great Dingle peninsula. Kenmare River Horseshoe section of the route and Below: Lough From Knockmoyle, I followed the ridge to Glanbrack was still on schedule. Cummeenapeasta from the Reeks Mountain before climbing to the high point of the day, Day 8 34km (new total: 271km) ridge, with Lough Baurtregaum (851m), and on to Caherconree (835m). My camp for the night was a kilometre further on at After a fine breakfast in the Butler Arms Hotel, I Callee and Lough the impressive Caherconree Fort. followed the Kerry Way along a ridgeline to Gouragh in the distance. Knockavohaun (371m), before gradually descending Day 12 29km (new total: 408km) to the River Ferta. From here, it was just a few I continued along the Slieve Mish ridge from kilometres to the start of the pilgrims’ route to Knockbrack to Cnoc na Stuaice (481m), spectacularly Knocknadobar (690m). situated overlooking Inch Strand and Castlemaine Soft evening sunlight shone through the clouds as I Harbour. reached the summit of Knocknadobar. The views all A small country road allowed me to regain the around were magnificent, with Valencia Island, mountains near Knocknakilton. I followed the ridge to Doulus Bay and the mountains of Iveragh on one Reamore, above Lough Anascaul, in windy conditions, side, and Dingle Bay on the other. I descended to the before stopping at Loch Dubh. Glendalough lakes for the night. Day 9 41km (new total: 312km) A dramatic rain shower darkened the sky over Dingle Bay as I made my way around to Kells. It was a short climb to Been Hill before I followed the Glenbeigh Horseshoe ridge to the high point of Coomacarrea (772m) and continued to the pass of Bealach Oisín. A brisk walk along a mountain road brought me to the last climb of the day, a col below Broaghnabinnia at the head of Caragh valley. Day 10 29km (new total: 341km) A bright and sunny morning made for a very pleasant walk down the Cummeenduff Glen and through the Gap of Dunloe, reaching Kate Kearney’s Cottage in perfect time for a morning coffee. After a birthday pint of Guinness, I headed for the zig-zags at the start of the Reeks ridge, once described by the Irish botanist and explorer Henry Chichester Hart (1847-1908) as ‘the grandest bit of mountaineering to be met with in Ireland.’ The ridge ahead spectacularly wound its way to Carrauntoohil, with the Beara peninsula clearly visible Photographs: Aidan Ennis Photographs: 40 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Day 13 38km (new total: 446km) Above: Lough where I planned to stay at the Campail Teach an Aragail The alarm went off at 5.00am. It was raining as I Eagher, campsite for the night. climbed the gentle gradient of An Cnapán Mór Coomloughra Lough and (649m) before navigating to Sliabh Mhacha Ré and Day 14 15km (new total: 461km) Lough Eighter It was Friday, June 14th, 2019, and the last day of my descending to the Connor Pass. from Caher. hike. After an early morning visit to Gallarus Oratory, I It had become exceptionally cold and I needed a walked the peaceful Saints Road to Ventry, where I had hot drink. I sheltered in my tent and put on an Below left: a morning coffee break at the local post office shop. additional base layer and my lightweight down Wild camp at The last six kilometres were along the Dingle Way. jacket. I now had every shred of my available Loch Dubh I arrived in Dingle just after midday, completing my clothing on me. below An continuous walk of the Three Peninsulas Mountain Refuelled and now warm, I headed along the Cnapán Mór Hike. ridge to the summit of Brandon Mountain (952m). I on the Dingle did not linger at the summit cross but immediately peninsula. * * * * * * started the descent, in very poor visibility, to the Hiking the mountains of the Beara, Iveragh and col far below. Below right: Dingle peninsulas was an epic adventure through some Más an Tiompáin (763m) rose into the cloud Aidan on Más an of the most remote and exceptionally beautiful ahead. It was the last mountain on the Brandon Tiompáin, the landscapes imaginable. headland. I launched myself up the final summit of last mountain In terms of the scale and distance, the richness of my hike. on the Brandon the countryside and the spellbinding scenery, there is All that was left to do after that was to walk headland. surely nothing quite like it. This hike is simply the best along the quiet tracks of the Kerry Way to Gallarus, mountain backpacking route in the world ■

Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 41 NEW ZEALAND

TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING

Tongariro National Park on New Zealand’s North Island is the country’s oldest national park. It is a dual World Heritage site, being rich in both cultural identity and dramatic, awe-inspiring natural scenery, which includes the volcanic peaks of Mount Ngauruhoe (2,291m), Mount Tongariro (1,967m) and Mount Ruapehu (2,797m). The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a world-renowned trek through the park that is one of the most popular in New Zealand. Greg Butler decided to attempt the 19km day hike in September last year, while he was in New Zealand to visit his daughter. The crossing passes over the volcanic terrain of the multi-cratered active volcano Mount Tongariro and passes the eastern base of Mount Ngauruhoe.

he warning sign at the Devil’s Staircase Above: One of Before leaving Ireland for New Zealand, I had confirmed that this was a serious hike: the Emerald questioned my ability to complete this trek. I emailed Lakes passed two companies who arrange guided walks in the T on the descent national park. I felt the need to tell them that, though I ‘STOP: Are you really prepared to continue? from Red was an experienced trekker, I was 72 years old and a Have you considered the weather, your Crater, with slow downhill walker. I received the following replies: equipment and your fitness?’ steam rising from the ‘As a self-professed slower person, it is advisable I was about ninety minutes into the Tongariro ground, an to book a private guided trip. Slowing down Alpine Crossing and the almost 20km, nine-hour trek indication that others on the downhill can be especially was about to get difficult. My excitement about the the area is frustrating.’ possibility of completing this bucket list goal was volcanically tempered by apprehension and uncertainty about active. The second reply was more encouraging and the one what lay ahead. I opted for:

‘You do not need a guide. The track is very well ➤ Greg Butler is a member of Mountaineering marked, and you sound more experienced and Ireland and lives in Cork. He began hillwalking in fitter than many who complete this hike.’ Ireland with the Lee Valley Walking Group in his early fifties. On turning 65, he turned his attention to What they didn’t mention was the ‘many’ I was more high-altitude trekking. He has been to Kilimanjaro, experienced than were mainly international back- Everest Base Camp, Mount Elbrus and Annapurna packers in their twenties or early thirties! Base Camp, and has completed the Camino Frances, the 780km pilgrims route from St Jean Pied Setting off de Port in France over the Pyrenees and through the I took the 5.30am shuttle bus from Taupo to the north of Spain to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia. starting point of the trek, Mangatepopo car park at Photographs: Greg Butler Greg Photographs: 42 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Photographs: Greg Butler Spring 2020 Spring to Ngauruhoe harsh environment. The sun rising over daisies and mosses – delicate plants flourishing in a with clumps of tussock grasses, large mountain landscape, a flower garden of colourful Alpine plants, immediately struck by the loveliness of the valley, rolling hills through the glaciated got more difficult. meet several of them later, as they tired, and the trail and admiration. I knew from experience that I would passed me, greeting me with a mixture of sympathy to shorts and tee-shirt. from woolly hat, gloves and three layers of clothing, for all conditions, and throughout the day I went common, but youth was on their side! I had packed during the day. Tee-shirts, shorts and trainers were changeable weather can bring wind, rain and cold poorly equipped for an Alpine environment, where trekkers set off at a brisk pace. Several of them were 1,120m. There was an air of excitement as my fellow IN THE WORLD. THE TOP TEN ONE-DAY HIKES ALPINE CROSSING AMONGST RANKED THE TONGARIRO NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC The first hour was a relatively easy walk up gently My slow, steady pace meant that many people Lord of the Rings bounded by a dominated the skyline – fans. lateral moraine. Mangatepopo ‘Mount Doom’ I was Mount in foreground. blooming heather valley, with Mangatepopo moraine in Below: Lateral ‘Mount Doom.’ Ngauruhoe, or Butler and Mount Above: Greg ‘Slow, short, steady steps, and no stopping.’ not an option. I recalled the advice of my mentor, most strenuous part of the trek, and turning back was valley and see how far I had come. encouraging to look back down the Mangatepopo tracks of ancient and modern lava flows. It was South Crater Devil’s Staircase The scramble up the The trek became more challenging approaching the (1,650m). Plant life was limited on rough – a steep climb of 370 steps to the Red Crater Ridge Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish was the 43 ➤ NEW ZEALAND

The ridge was steep and narrow, exposed to high Above: View of The climb to the summit of Red Crater (1,886m) winds, with vertigo-inducing drops on either side. The Oturere valley left me momentarily breathless, but I was rewarded trail was not well formed, with loose rocks and gravel and Red Crater by a sight I shall remember as one of the most underfoot. I saw some very nervous walkers hanging from the summit. breathtaking I have ever seen on a mountain. There on grimly to a steel support chain to avoid slipping. was an unobstructed view that included the Red No one was passing me on that section! A young Below: Red Crater itself, the Oturere valley to the east, the Indian lady offered me her hand on a particularly Crater (left) and Emerald Lakes below, and beyond them the tricky bit and, though I could have managed ﬁne, on the summit of shimmering Blue Lake above the Central Crater. I gladly accepted her kindness. Red Crater (right). The calm, cool, blue-green lake-waters belied the Photographs: Greg Butler Greg Photographs: explosive violent eruptions which had created them. I imagined this was the scene that enthused National Geographic to rate the Tongariro Alpine Crossing as one of the top ten one-day hikes in the world. There was a short, difﬁcult descent to the Emerald Lakes and Central Crater on loose rocks and scree. Here, people were slipping and sliding,

44 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 with the odd person taking a tumble and hurting Above: The trail wound around the walls of the Central their pride. The steam rising from the ground in many The zig-zag Crater and I began the long zig-zag descent down the places and the sulphurous smell of rotten eggs descent down Rotopaunga valley, passing the Ketetahi shelter. The indicated that I was on an active volcanic part of the the Rotopaunga hut is no longer used for overnight accommodation, trail. valley, with Lake following damage that resulted from the 2012 I stopped for a rest, a snack and to take Taupo behind. volcanic eruption at Te Maari crater, which spewed photographs, but not for too long, as I was only at ash kilometres into the sky and rained rocks down on the halfway point, and I was worried about the Below: the shelter. This is an active volcanic hazard zone, 4.00pm deadline to catch the return bus. I crossed The Blue Lake. with billowing funnels of steam venting from the the Central Crater before climbing to the Blue Lake. crater and a warning sign advising quick movement This lake is Tapu (sacred) to the Maori people and it is through this section of the trail. disrespectful to touch, eat or drink around its shores. Lake Taupo in the distance ﬁlls the caldera left by a Looking back at the hazardous descent from the Red massive volcanic eruption 26,500 years ago, when Crater summit brought a smile to my face at my the effect on the skies would have been visible from

Photographs: Greg Butler Greg Photographs: achievement in negotiating it without incident. Rome to China. Tongariro’s dynamic landscape, combining beauty and violence in the same place, is a reminder that nature’s cataclysmic events could happen again. When I read the Tongariro Alpine Crossing described as ‘New Zealand’s best one-day hike,’ I had high expectations. I wasn’t disappointed. There was an added sense of achievement in doing it alone, which allowed more time for reﬂection on how lucky I was to be in that wondrous place. There was also a sense of camaraderie and fun, with the occasional words of support and sympathetic glances from strangers, and even a round of applause from a group of ﬁve Asians upon my arrival at the Red Crater summit! Why I did it Why did I do it? Because it was hard, and to hold back ‘bent old age’ a little longer. Once started, I never really doubted my ability to complete the trek, though as a ‘self-professed slower walker’ I had some concerns about my 4.00pm return bus deadline, which I made with minutes to spare. The best reason of all for doing it was the sheer joy of it! ■ Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 45 EVEREST

Guidebook writer Jim Ryan shares some tips about making the most of your time in the Everest area

n 2006, I visited Everest Base Camp (EBC) in Nepal. When I returned to the Everest trail in October 2019, I was staggered by the increase in the number of trekkers and the other changes that had occurred. IThe Nepalese are good at keeping statistics. Way back in 1979, 3,600 trekkers visited Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. That number jumped dramatically over the turn of the century, so that in 2005 the number of trekkers surpassed the 20,000 mark. By 2014, it had reached 97,000. There was a sharp drop-off in 2015 due to the earthquakes in the region, and there was only a partial recovery in 2016, but the number had risen again to almost 100,000 by 2018. The statisticians expected that, by 2019, the annual number of trekkers visiting the Everest area would reach 125,000. The peak month for trekkers in Sagarmatha National Park is October, with November close behind. By comparison, the April/May/June season attracts half the autumn number.

Overcrowding on THE EVEREST TRAIL

In 2006, you stopped in tea-houses. These were run Above: On the In Namche Bazaar, the Sherpa capital, and below by families and the number of bedrooms was rarely Everest trail that, you are now likely to be accommodated in a more than five or six. You got to know the family and above Namche twin-bedded room with a western-style toilet Bazaar, heading took pictures of the children. These tea-houses are gone en-suite. Above Namche, the conditions are not so for Thyangboche. now, replaced by enormous lodges and hotels, each good. Perhaps you will have to share an Asian toilet and a small hand-basin with twenty other trekkers. capable of accommodating up to fifty trekkers. The Fire safety in these hastily constructed buildings is family no longer lives there. Instead, the lodge is non-existent. At night, before you retreat to your manned by hired maids and cooks. cold bedroom, seats nearest the stove in the dining hall will be at a premium. Out on the trail these days, when you are sensibly ➤ Jim Ryan is a member of walking up the Everest trail ‘bistari, bistari’ (slowly, Bishopstown Hillwalking Club in slowly) to allow for acclimatisation, a large group Cork. He is the author of several may overtake you as another group descends, going guidebooks: Carrauntoohil and the other way. Your group may be broken up and MacGillycuddy’s Reeks: A your guide will try to reassemble the party. Walking Guide; The Mountains Thirteen years ago, you had the time and the of Nerja; Aconcagua and the inclination to stop and pass the time of day with Southern Andes; and Scenic those you met on the trail. Now there are so many Walks in Killarney. people that you will walk past them with barely a smile. Photograph: Jim Ryan Photograph: 46 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Then, you may be ascending at a pace you feel comfortable with, when you hear from behind, ‘Excuse me, please,’ from a trekker who may be better acclimatised than you or just in more of a hurry and ignoring the advice they have received about going slowly to allow for acclimatisation. The trekker wants you to move off the trail, out of the way. Tourism is a major source of income in Nepal and there are certain fixed charges you will have pay en route to Everest. The Nepal entry visa will cost you €50 on arrival in the airport, and obtaining it will delay you in three separate queues for up to two hours. You can cut an hour off that by applying for your visa online beforehand. There are also entry fees for visiting many cultural and religious sites. If you decide to wander around Durbar Square in Kathmandu, it will cost you €8 just to pass the barrier. Incidentally, the largest of Durbar Square’s temples, the one with the erotic carvings on its struts, was totally demolished in the 2015 earthquake. The entry fee for Sagarmatha National Park is now about €27. Out on the Everest trail, it will cost you four or five euros to charge your phone (electricity is from solar panels), and another eight to ten euros for a Wi-Fi connection. Best value is to buy a Nepalese sim card, which will give you coverage virtually anywhere in Nepal. A bucket of warm water to wash yourself with will set you back five euros per person. Whereas in 2006 you queued at Kathmandu airport for the flight to Lukla, these days the airport at Kathmandu is undergoing redevelopment; so you will have to drive five hours on a bumpy, dusty road to the small airport at Ramechap in order to fly the fifteen minutes to Lukla, at least until May. In October 2019, we decided to go north-west from Namche to Gokyo. The trail was quieter, but the accommodation at Gokyo was at bursting point – too few beds for the number of trekkers. There was also a Above: On the supplies, baggage, etc. You could be halfway across shortage of fresh water. Everest trail, one of the cable bridges (there are eight of them on Crossing the Cho La, a mountain pass at 5,420m, heading for to get back onto the Everest trail, was strenuous. the Everest trail now – two above Namche and the Phakding. Everyone wants to visit Everest Base Camp, but there other six below it) when the yaks start towards you is nothing there except possibly a few tents. Below: Half over the bridge and you have to retreat. On your way back, as you descend from Namche in an hour from Then you meet donkeys and mules interspersed the early morning, you first of all meet a line of yaks Everest Base with porters for the next hour until you come across coming against you on their way up, loaded with Camp. the first wave of trekkers on their way up, having spent their first night after landing in Lukla at Phakding. You look at their stressed faces. “Am I going to overcome these feelings of nausea or will the altitude get to me?” If you are devilish, you will feel like saying “You think this is hard? Well, it’s going to get a lot worse!” Your trekking company will have advised you that your tip at the end of the trek is discretionary. It isn’t! The porters in particular may be paid little by the trekking company and they will depend for their livelihood largely on your tip. However, if you thought that Everest Base Camp was the biggest tourist draw in Nepal, you would be mistaken. Well ahead of EBC, many of Nepal’s one million annual tourists go to the national parks at Shivapuri, Chitwan and Bardiya in the hope of seeing tigers and other exotic species Photographs: Jim Ryan (crowd on the trail), Daniel Oberhaus (half hour from Everest Base Camp) Everest from hour Daniel Oberhaus (half trail), the on (crowd Jim Ryan Photographs: ■ Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 47 CHAMONIX

THE SMALL WAY, AND OTHERS...

John McCune, with Freja Shannon belaying, climbs the Voie Petit, the hardest route in Chamonix

was delighted to climb the Voie Petit (450m, Above: The view 14 pitches, 8b) at the end of September last from the Bonatti year. It was a real treat to send this famous Ledge on the hard route at the end of a very busy summer. Voie Petit. Bolted by Arnaud Petit in 1997, the route was ﬁrst freed by Alex Huber in 2005. It remains Right: Jonny the hardest free rock climb on the Chamonix Baker on the L’or granite.I du temps route During the year, I did a lot of guiding work, which is on the Grand great, but sometimes it is hard to ﬁnd time and Capucin. energy for personal projects. Over July and August, I had a few days off and managed to climb some good routes. In the middle of the summer, I had a little break when Jonny Baker and I climbed Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez’s new route on the Grand Capucin, L’or du temps (450m, ABO, 7c+). It’s an

➤ John McCune is from Newry, Northern Ireland, but he currently lives in Chamonix, France. He has climbed all over the world, big wall free climbing in the Alps, Yosemite and Patagonia. He works year-round as an IFMGA mountain guide. He is a passionate off-piste skier, mountaineer and rock climber, and loves sharing his knowledge and expertise with others. For more information, visit his website, www.mccunemountaineering.co.uk. Photographs: John McCune Collection Photographs: 48 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 IF I COULD GET A BELAYER, I MIGHT REACH THE BONATTI LEDGE AND FINISH THE ROUTE THE NEXT DAY.

incredible line, following steep cracks and corners with the crux going through a steep, juggy roof. I had met Nina on the cable car one day and she really recommended trying it. It was awesome to onsight the entire route. The day after, Jonny and I climbed Echo des Alpages (ED, 7a), which is an older classic but one of the best routes at that grade in the Mont Blanc Massif. In August, I managed to finish off some old Above: John I managed to figure out the beta for that. I thought business, climbing the roof crack Ma Dalton (7b+). McCune climbing that, if I could get a belayer, I’d be able to climb all the The famous roof crack is the hardest route on the the roof crack pitches up to the Bonatti Ledge, then bivi there and South Face of the Aiguille du Midi. It was great to Ma Dalton. climb the rest of the route the next day. keep the motivation up and pull some great moves When I got back down to the bottom, I met my that I had tried before but hadn’t managed to free Below: Freja friends Freja Shannon and Heather Florence, who at that time. It is the Separate Reality (in Yosemite) Shannon cleans had just climbed the Bonatti Route. I happily tied into of the Alps, but I thought it was substantially harder. the 8b pitch of their rope for the return trip across the glacier back to At the end of the summer, I was looking forward the Voie Petit. the Torino hut. Freja was buzzing from her day in the ➤ to a bit of time off to really try the Voie Petit. I kept two weeks in September free and did some pull-ups and hang-boarding throughout my last few weeks of work. When that time off eventually came in mid-September, it wasn’t looking very likely. Firstly, I thought I had damaged my backside in an enthusiastic ‘bumslide’ coming down the final snowslope off the Aiguille du Peigne. I had a lot of pain, which thankfully improved, but I wasn’t sure how hard climbing would feel. By taking care, I was able to finish all my work. However, I got sick on the last trip to Mont Blanc and had to spend my first three days off in bed. Then I couldn’t get anyone to try the Voie Petit with me. All of my regular partners were busy or away on other trips, but I was still determined to try to make it happen. I managed to get a crack at it and spent two days up there with a keen young Chamoniard, Tom Lafaille. It was great to figure out the moves, particularly on the 8b pitch, but he wasn’t feeling up to the route that time, so we didn’t get much further up the route than that pitch. I came down, inspired, but feeling frustrated that it wasn’t going to happen this year. It was going to be a massive project for me. The days were getting shorter and I had taken on a bit of rock guiding work that started in six days, but the weather was still perfect. I had to try to do it. I figured I should rope solo up as high as I could and try to figure out some of the upper pitches. One thing that I had discussed with Tom was the way in which Caroline Ciavaldini had climbed it by bivouacking on the Bonatti Ledge and finishing the top pitches on the second day. I thought I could do all of the bottom section now. I just needed to get to the top bit. I went up on my own for a day and rope soloed up the Direct du Capucin. From there, I was able to swing into the 7c+ pitch that follows the 8b. Photographs: John McCune Collection Photographs: Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 49 CHAMONIX

mountains and volunteered to belay me sometime Above: The tecnica Climbing these big moves at nearly 4,000m altitude on the Voie Petit. I was delighted with that and we corner at the start was much more challenging than if it was at a sports made a plan to attempt the route at the end of the of the 8b pitch on crag in the valley far below. week. the Voie Petit. I climbed as smoothly as I could up the corner and I had to try really hard through the overhang. I didn’t Final attempt Below: John on the think I would have the energy to have multiple goes I had a rest day and then went back up to the climb upper pitches of at this pitch, so it was a relief to do it first go. It was with Freja on the Friday morning. I felt much better the Voie Petit. one of those incredible climbing experiences where and was quite optimistic. Freja’s positive energy was encouraging. The first pitches all went well; there were a few 6s and a fairly bold 7b. Generally the route was protected with the notion that, if you are there to climb 8b, then the grade 6 bits don’t need to be protected much and the grade 7 bits can just be a bit spicy. It was all quite engaging. I hauled the big bag as efficiently as possible so as to save my energy for the harder pitches, but it was always on my mind that the 8b was going to require a big effort. The 8b pitch started up a very aesthetic, open book corner, which was protected with a few spaced bolts. The climbing was technical and very much about precise footwork, stemming up the smooth blank walls, with my right foot pushing into one wall and my left foot pushing into the other. Stemming can get you past completely blank sections of rock and provide a much-needed rest in a spot where there are no jugs. At the top of the corner it got steeper and the corner was capped with a huge roof, with a rounded crack running through it. There was a bouldery crux with steep, powerful moves until I could layback out of the top. I stuffed in a few cams and gained a positive stance where the angle eased back again. Photographs: John McCune Collection (the tecnica corner), Freja Shannon (John on the upper pitches) the upper on Shannon (John Freja corner), tecnica (the John McCune Collection Photographs: 50 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 CLIMBING BIG MOVES AT 4,000 METRES IS MUCH MORE CHALLENGING THAN TAKING ON A SPORTS CRAG IN THE VALLEY BELOW.

you manage to execute every move perfectly and then have this extra dream-like strength, that you only find pushing your body beyond its normal limits with an adequate dose of adrenalin. At one point, my foot slipped. I cut loose with my hand in a poor jam and somehow managed to not become unstuck. I just pressed my toe back on again and finished the moves. I was absolutely ecstatic to have done that pitch but I knew that I had to keep calm and carry on because there were a lot of hard pitches to go still. A superbly technical 7c+ pitch was next. It wasn’t steep but it had very small holds, which were very abrasive on the skin of my fingers. It was very reminiscent of pulling up on the tiny crystals of a hard trad route in the Mournes. Thankfully, this pitch went first go too, so I didn’t have to worry about the skin on my fingertips getting too thin. There was just one more hard pitch before we reached the Bonatti Ledge, where we would spend the night and get some rest. That pitch was a tricky 7b+ and I promptly fell off. It had a little boulder move that I hadn’t anticipated. I figured it out on my second go and thankfully managed to continue with relative ease up the rest of the pitch. This got us up to the large sloping Bonatti Ledge. We excavated some rubble and moved some rocks Above: John on a 6c cappuccinos there, before going on down to around to make a nice flat spot to sleep on. It was pitch high on the Chamonix in time to go to an end of season party. surprisingly warm and it was much more pleasant route. It was a perfect end to the summer and I felt than sleeping in the tent on the glacier had been on really lucky to have climbed the Voie Petit. The previous occasions. The light was incredible and it Below: John and Freja following week the weather turned poor and it was a beautifully still night. We watched an episode on the summit of the was apparent that we had summited at the last of Father Ted and drank a few cups of tea. It’s bizarre Grand Capucin. opportunity for the year ■ to be in such a place and have 4G signal to stream. I can’t imagine what Bonatti would think. Dinner was freeze-dried instant meals. Then I had a look at the 8a pitch above the ledge, which I hadn’t been on before, to figure out the moves for the next day’s climb. Topping out When I was ready the next morning, I gave the 8a pitch a go on lead and redpointed it at the first go. The rest of the pitches were more moderate but on absolutely perfect golden granite. There was one tricky 7b pitch, which I knew I had to onsight to get Freja back down in time for the party she wanted to go to in Chamonix. I had to fight hard. It was no pushover but I squeezed those crystals tight and stayed focused to the end. Topping out on the route was really special in the perfect crisp autumnal weather with a huge sea of cloud below and all over Italy. We took a summit selfie and then got going on the abseils, determined to make the last cable car down. We got down to the cable car station in good time and had some Photographs: John McCune Collection Photographs: Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 51 WILDLIFE

THE HEN HARRIER Cromán na gcearc, or Circus cyaneus, the silver ghost, is a stunning and iconic upland bird of prey, writes Mario Mac Rory

or many years, it has been a privilege of Above: Two underbelly and striking jet-black wing tips. mine to observe and photograph the standing stones The female is the larger of the two, displaying a Irish hen harrier, predominantly in the in the Nire Valley, beautiful rich brown plumage with a white rump and Comeragh Mountains, Co Waterford. Co Waterford. brown and white rings on her tail. It is these markings In 2015, I obtained a licence from the Hen harriers hunt on the tail which give her, and indeed the lookalike National Parks and Wildlife Service in valleys like this juveniles (whether male or female), the moniker (NPWS) to photograph these majestic one, with plenty ‘ringtail.’ birdsF in their natural habitat. Encountering these of heather. Their beauty is made all the more profound by their birds has led to my involvement in several hen harrier piercing yellow eyes, which turn from dark brown (in surveys, most recently the Irish Hen Harrier Winter Inset: A female the case of female chicks) or smoky grey (in the case Survey – see www.ihhws.ie. hen harrier (not of male chicks) to amber to yellow as they get on in The hen harrier is such an elegant bird to behold, to scale). years. The difference in size between the male and one that deserves conservation and adoration. female hen harriers is so striking that it was once Capturing these striking birds in images allows us a thought they were different species. glimpse of their true coloration. The male hen harrier Capturing images of these majestic birds has posed has a blue and grey upper body with a pale white many challenges over the years, given their vulnerability and rarity. Respecting their natural habitat is ﬁrst and foremost. Hen harriers are ground-nesting birds and use tall heather and young ➤ Mario Mac Rory is a Mountain Leader, Mountain Skills Provider, a Leave No Trace forest areas to nest in during the breeding season. Trainer and an award-winning and published The female has the added protection of a plumage wildlife photographer based in the sunny which allows her to blend almost perfectly into the south-east, where he runs Muddyboots. For heather – she has natural camouﬂage. more information see his website It was thought for a long time that hen harriers

Photographs: Helen Lawless (Nire Valley), Mario Mac Rory (hen harrier) Mario Mac Rory Valley), (Nire Helen Lawless Photographs: muddybootsguidedwalking.com. deserted their upland haunts during the winter, but 52 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Photographs: Mario Mac Rory soaring high into the sky (higher than any other and can last for some time. It involves the male bird called the the females with an acrobatic courtship display In spring, the male hen harrier attempts to impress unique ‘sky dance’ and their incredible ‘food pass.’ watch these stunning birds display both their conservationist, I have had the opportunity to the summer months. down to nest and to try to rear their young, during ﬁnding a partner, they settle courtship displays. After harriers perform their famous is in the air and the hen conservation effort. great attention in terms of through the winter, deserve sustains the harriers with food with the hinterland that important sites and, along species. These are vitally harriers and several other bird sharing this space with other found at roosting spots, these stunning birds can be the UK, and vice versa. and other countries, including movement between Ireland out of 12 months. There is also for 66% of or eightthe year – to as ‘normal time,’ accounts breeding season, also referred requirements. The non- and conservation national distribution, habitats needed light on their habits, Survey the Spring 2020 Spring As an avid wildlife photographer and a keen Come March and April, love During the winter months Irish Hen Harrier Winter has shed much- sky dance. This is an incredible spectacle, mid-air. female to catch in skylark) for the chick (possibly a (left) has dropped a food pass: the male Below: A hen harrier and bracken. hen harrier in heather Above: Adult male sharing those photos have only ampliﬁed my and to capture. Witnessing these spectacles and to hers, mid-air! It is a fascinating sight to behold down, and the food will be passed from his talons approach each other she will somersault upside area. The female will rise to meet him, and as they to his chosen female as he approaches the nest male bird will carry his quarry in his talons, calling mammals, including such as the is the capture through a photographic lens. these that are truly mesmerising to witness and to speed, strength and endurance. It is moments like be outdone, partake in these beautiful displays of determination. Often, female hen harriers, not to from the ground, rising with pride and captivating his audience that he swerves inches far! However, the male pursuer is so intent on that the male is out of control and has gone too prowess. an alluring performance of agility, strength and bird), free-falling, spinning and somersaulting. It is FROM HABITATFROM LOSS. PRIMARILYSTEMMING MANY CHALLENGES, FACES HARRIER HEN THE Another spectacular trait of these agile hunters Watching this spectacular show, one might think food pass. meadow pipit Their diet consists of small birds, frogs, voles Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish and skylark, and mice. and small The 53 ➤ WILDLIFE

passion for the protection of these striking birds. Above: Young agriculture, the wind energy industry and wildlife Sadly, hen harriers face many challenges, primarily female hen harrier conservation can often appear to be in conflict, but it stemming from habitat loss and fragmentation. (in second need not be that way. Looking back, has the last 30 to The most obvious and longest-lasting change has calendar year). 40 years of policy been of any real help to the small been the replacement of natural and semi-natural farmers (the managers of this landscape) or the hen habitats with non-native industrial conifer Below: Adult harrier? Both have declined significantly, all replaced plantations, most often comprised of Sitka spruce. male hen harrier by forestry. The new Common Agricultural Policy This directly impacts their breeding numbers but hunting. offers great potential to turn this around for a more also their ability to rear young, given that nests in or sustainable and positive future – but there needs to near forestry are far more likely to be predated. be vision from our leaders and indeed from local The hen harrier is an indicator species, so its people in upland areas. Hillwalkers and climbers have decline reflects a wider decline of various other a role too – to report any sightings of hen harriers, to species that once shared this land in greater spread word that these magnificent birds are an numbers – red grouse, curlew, skylark, golden asset to our landscape, and to add their voices to the plover, meadow pipit, marsh fritillary and many call for an agricultural policy that supports more more. However, thanks to the good work of some sustainable management of Ireland’s upland areas ■ dedicated people in the NPWS and the Department of Agriculture, progress has been made in some areas with the introduction of the Hen Harrier Project and the GLAS scheme, with subsidies being given to farmers in protected areas to encourage more sustainable practices of ecological farming. Back in the 1970s there were about 300 pairs of hen harriers breeding in Ireland. As a result of various pressures, the hen harrier is now an endangered species, with one of the smallest populations of any species in Ireland. Results from the national breeding survey of 2015 confirmed only 108 breeding pairs, and who is to say the decline hasn’t continued since. For comparison, approximately 130 pairs of curlews and 160 pairs of corncrakes are still found breeding in Ireland. Under the EU Birds Directive, Ireland is obliged to take measures to protect all wild birds and their habitats. However, the needs of commercial forestry, Photographs: Mario Mac Rory Photographs: 54 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 MERIDIAN DO MORE, TAKE LESS

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WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT Access & Conservation

Upland management Written by Helen Lawless, Hillwalking, Access & Hill path repair works Conservation Funding announced for path repairs on Croagh Patrick and Errigal Ofﬁcer

Marc Vinas Alcon from the National Trust and Matt McConway, Upland Access, on the new section of path at the Glen River in the Mournes. The path was hand-built, within the damaged zone, using material found on-site. Mountaineering Ireland has welcomed other stakeholders to develop restoration work on the path up the recent announcements of funding appropriate repair solutions in response Strickeen. The work, which is also funded for path repair work on both Errigal to worsening path erosion on these under ORIS, has been done by a local and Croagh Patrick. iconic mountains. The solutions arrived at team trained in upland path construction Minister Michael Ring TD has are largely based on using local materials techniques. The Forum is seeking announced funding of €480k from the to produce a sustainable path which will resources for further path work in the Department of Rural and Community ﬁt into its landscape setting, in keeping MacGillycuddy’s Reeks. Development for a two-year project to with the Helping the Hills Guiding Meanwhile, Mountaineering Ireland put a sustainable path in place along Principles for the management of upland is working with the Wicklow Uplands the pilgrim route on Croagh Patrick. path erosion – see www.helpingthehills.ie. The Croagh Patrick project will have a Small examples of the type of work that Council and other partners to strong emphasis on training, which will is planned can be seen on both Errigal commission a path condition survey in also help to build capacity nationally in and Croagh Patrick. the Wicklow Mountains. The survey will upland path construction techniques. As both these projects already have identify path sections that are badly The Croagh Patrick project will also planning approval, Mountaineering eroded and in need of repair, and provide include public engagement actions Ireland is hopeful that work will an indication of the cost to do this work. and assistance from volunteer groups. commence over the coming months. While combatting path erosion is a key Funding of €500k has also been part of ensuring that the increased announced to provide sustainable Other areas footfall on busy mountains is sustainable, access and for habitat restoration on Path erosion is also being addressed in it should be addressed within a wider Errigal. The project will be accompanied other areas. In recent months, some management framework. There will be by measures to develop Dunlewey as an excellent work has been done on the Glen need for long-term path maintenance information and service hub for those River path up towards Slieve Donard, and measures to address other aspects planning to climb Errigal. The Errigal under the auspices of the National Trust. of recreation management, such as project is being funded under the The work is being carried out to help Department of Rural and Community protect the landscape and habitats on parking and engagement with visitors. Development’s Outdoor Recreation Northern Ireland’s highest mountain. It is welcome to see this incorporated Infrastructure Scheme (ORIS), in It also provides a better experience in many of the above initiatives. collaboration with Fáilte Ireland. for those using the path. Mountaineering Ireland looks forward In both cases, Mountaineering Ireland In Kerry, the MacGillycuddy Reeks to working with other stakeholders to

Photograph: Helen Lawless Photograph: has worked with local members and Mountain Access Forum has carried out help deliver these important projects ■ 56 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Responsible Enjoyment of Special Places with Empathy, Care and Trust Controlling your canine companion

Dogs are great company and they help ensure that their owners In sheep, anxiety caused get plenty of exercise.* However, man’s best friend can by the presence of dogs sometimes be a source of problems. The key to avoiding these during the lambing problems is choosing an appropriate place to exercise your dog season is the main cause and keeping your dog under control. of stillbirths and The Wicklow Uplands Council has recently highlighted that miscarriages, which can the farming communities of counties Wicklow and Dublin occur two to three days experienced a number of serious incidents involving multiple later. The dog’s owner sheep losses in 2019. While this damage is often caused by dogs can be held liable for the which stray from neighbouring properties, the presence of any ﬁnancial losses that dog close to farmland or on the hills is a major concern for result. farmers, and as a result dogs are now not welcome across Observe and respect local signage most upland areas in Ireland. ■ Leave dogs at home if accessing land where sheep or other Mountaineering Ireland asks all dog owners to: livestock are present or close by. Many landowners forbid dogs ■ Respect and be aware of farm animals and wildlife entirely, whereas others, including the State, may request the use Ensure that your dog is under effective control at all times, i.e. of leads. they should come at ﬁrst call. The presence of dogs, even with Take responsibility for your dog’s waste playful intent, is likely to cause great anxiety to wildlife and farm ■ Dog waste, once bagged, must be disposed of properly. Failure to animals. Pregnant females and very young animals are especially clean up is a public health concern and an offence under Section vulnerable. Without successful breeding, our populations of 22 of the Litter Pollution Act. hares, hedgehogs and hen harriers will only go one way. Consider too that most of our upland birds nest on the ground. ■ Share this advice with others * TILDA (2019) Associations of pet ownership with health and Enjoy the outdoors responsibly with your dog! See also wellbeing in community-dwelling adults aged 50 years and over www.wicklowuplands.ie/guidelines-for-responsible-dog- in Ireland. Download this report as a pdf at www.bit.ly/tildapets. control-published or go to www.bit.ly/controlyourdog ■ Northern Ireland Environment Strategy

“It is a fundamental premise of a to communicate the value of a civilised society that everyone should better environment have the right to live in a healthy Recognition of recreation as an environment, with access to sufﬁcient • accepted land use and appropriate environmental An Integrated land use strategy resources for a healthy life. Northern • to provide a foundation for good Ireland’s environment is its most decision-making important asset and it is crucial to Policies and schemes to recognise each and every one of us.” • upland areas as important natural assets The opening statement above set the The production of an Environment Bill context for a discussion document • for Northern Ireland, including legally published last autumn by the Department binding emissions targets. of Agriculture, Environment and Rural You can read the full submission, Affairs (DAERA) seeking input to Northern including the rationale for these points, Ireland’s ﬁrst Environment Strategy. on Mountaineering Ireland’s website – Mountaineering Ireland made a or go to www.bit.ly/strategydoc to substantial response to the discussion download the pdf. document in which it called for: Mountaineering Ireland extends its • A proactive environment strategy thanks to those members who and the adoption of its aims across contributed to this submission, particularly all government departments Access and Conservation Committee Photographs: Helen Lawless Photographs: • An environmental engagement theme member Vincent McAlinden ■ Slieve Bearnagh in the Mournes Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 57 Training

Winter scene on the Antrim plateau

Written by Jane Carney, Recent and upcoming events Training Ofﬁcer Jane Carney reports on training news and events run by the Training Ofﬁce

■ Winter Meet 2020 ■ Summer Alpine Meet 2020 Inchree, Onich, Scotland, February 8-15th, 2020 Youth bursary places available for aspirant Alpinists aged from The 2020 Winter Meet coincided with Storm Ciara, 18 to 25 years old making for very challenging conditions, with near- Saas Grund, Switzerland, July 4-18th, 2020: bookings open! constant precipitation and winds in excess of 100 km per hour on summits and ridges. With skills acquisition a Of the 65-plus members who attended the 2019 Summer Alpine priority, finding safe, snow-covered, sheltered terrain Meet, 50% were in the youth category, aged 18-25 years. We believe became the initial focus, with all teams heading for this was due to a very generous bursary donated to Mountaineering various corries along the striking Glen Coe valley. Ireland for youth Alpinists. We are excited to announce that this Early in the week, each of the four teams compared donation has been promised again for 2020! notes on conditions, weather and skills covered. The The youth Alpine bursary supports young, aspiring Alpinists and first day was a battle against very high winds and heavy helps to subsidise course costs for those availing of the Alpine rain, and prevented any team from coming close to walking, mountaineering and climbing courses. Your first trip to the summiting. Decision-making in winter can be complex Alps should be seen as the start of a lifetime of new adventures. in good conditions, but tough conditions forced Mountaineering Ireland is keen to support our future Alpinists. participants to make some difficult choices in order to This year’s Summer Alpine Meet information evening took place in select appropriate routes that challenged them but Basecamp, Dublin, on January 28th and was very well attended. Helen were still safe. Lawless and I, Jane Carney, presented details of the meet and The meet typically sees a mixture of independent answered questions on the format and content. mountaineers and others partaking in courses to Saas Grund was the venue of Mountaineering Ireland’s successful become more independent and skilled. Meets are an Summer Alpine Meet in 2015. It boasts the potential for wonderful ideal way to gather together people who share an adventures for walkers, climbers and mountaineers. In addition, interest in experiencing winter conditions, for example. participants can benefit from free lift passes, which helps balance Evenings are spent reading guidebooks, sharing beta, the costs of camping and eating out in Saas Grund. discussing options and enjoying the craic. As always, Mountaineering Ireland offers a range of short and long Based in Onich in Glen Coe, Inchree Chalets looked courses at the Summer Alpine Meet, providing opportunities to meet after our team well, providing excellent drying room others and to develop your Alpine skills and experience… and, of facilities, accommodation, an on-site bar and a course, to enjoy the mountains! restaurant. Groups gathered in the evenings to share The Summer Alpine Meet sees the experienced mentoring the details of their day’s adventures and to make plans for inexperienced in an apprentice-style pathway, though many follow the day ahead. the more formal ‘client and guide’ approach. The winters in Scotland seem to be changing, with The Saas valley has well-signed trails, mountaineering routes, the snowline rising ever higher, year on year. In response, climbing venues, accessible huts and a range of accommodation our activities are diversifying, with visits to the indoor options, including campsites. Book early and have something to look ice-climbing wall becoming more frequent, as with the forward to for longer! options to go scrambling or rock climbing. Train, plan and prepare to get the most out of your trip. Well done There are no guarantees of winter conditions in Onich to those who came to Scotland for our Winter Meet ahead of their any more, so we need to prepare to go mountaineering trip to the Summer Alpine Meet this summer. in a broader sense, which may involve climbing, The Summer Alpine Meet courses are run at cost and are not-for- scrambling or walking on ice, snow, mixed or bare profit. They are just one of the many benefits that you can get from terrain. This requires planning ahead, followed by your Mountaineering Ireland membership. dynamic risk assessment, decision-making and judgment calls See you in Saas Grund, July 4-18th, 2020! Photograph: Jane Carney Photograph: ■ 58 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Guidance on responding to Key dates 2020 • 2-4th April Train the Trainers, Wicklow Covid-19 (coronavirus) 5th April Providers CMS Training Day, • Sport HQ, Dublin Providers are directed to follow the Government’s guidelines on th Covid-19 (coronavirus) as they develop and to keep an eye on our • 14 April Providers CMS Training Day, website for guidance. As always, please contact the Training Officer as Sport HQ, Dublin required, to discuss items such as ratios, remote training options and 3rd May Providers CMS Training Day, social distancing. • Sport HQ, Dublin Please note our additional website page in the Training section, 15-17th May Women with Altitude event, ‘Reasonable Adjustments,’ which provides generic guidance on • Burren, Co Clare reasonable adjustments to courses to facilitate appropriate delivery and the meeting of requirements. • 18th May AMI Trainee Workshop: crag In response, the training office has cancelled face-to-face Provider (AMI rep Jonny Parr), Mournes training events. Remote training in the use of the new CMS (candidate (details on MT website) management system) will continue ■ 19th May AMI Trainee Workshop: mountain • (AMI rep Jonny Parr), Mournes 23-24th May Skills/CPD Workshops in • Teaching Navigation, Scrambling News for members, and Rock Climbing, Wicklow 2nd June Rock Climbing Instructor candidates and providers • Award-holders update workshop, Burren, Co Clare ■ Mountain Training UK (MTUK) name change The Mountain Training UK organisation has now become Mountain 8th June MTBI Training Meeting, Training United Kingdom & Ireland, or MTUKI. • Sport HQ, Dublin th ■ MTUKI Walking Awards Review commences • 8 June AMI Trainee Workshop: crag We have received responses from many to the stakeholder and provider (AMI rep Jonny Parr), Fair Head questionnaire and are summarising the findings in preparation for the 9th June AMI Trainee Workshop: mountain next steps. Thank you to everyone who completed the questionnaire. • (AMI rep Jonny Parr), Fair Head ■ Training Grant applications • 27-28th June MTUKI Meeting, Tollymore, New applications are being received for January-June 2020. Thank you to Mournes all those who responded with applications for late 2019; all applications 4-18th July Summer Alpine Meet, were successful. • Saas Grund, Switzerland ■ Club Training Officers Workshop, Tollymore, Mournes 20th July AMI Trainee Workshop: crag This well attended workshop, held on February 1-2nd, 2020, covered a • (AMI rep Jonny Parr), Wicklow diverse syllabus including ropework for climbing and scrambling, and 21st July AMI Trainee Workshop: mountain mountain navigation. The next Club Training Officers Workshop will be • (AMI rep Jonny Parr), Wicklow run in November. See the events section on the website for details. 12th September MTBI Meeting, Mournes Download these useful training guidelines • ■ 20-21st Sept Providers Workshop Please see the National Guidelines for Climbing and Walking Leaders and • the Good Practice Guidelines for Hillwalkers, available on theTraining • 26-27th Sept Skills/CPD Workshops in pages/Training Downloads of the Mountaineering Ireland website. Teaching Navigation, Scrambling and Rock Climbing, Wicklow ■ Partnership with AdventureSmart 20th October Winter Meet Information Evening, Mountaineering Ireland and Mountain Training Board Ireland have • Base Camp, Dublin, 7-8pm entered a partnership with AdventureSmart, a new outdoor safety campaign that aims to reduce the number of avoidable incidents which • 30th Oct-2nd Nov Mountain Leader Assessment, the rescue and emergency services have to deal with each year, through venue TBC the development and promotion of a comprehensive set of safety 7-8th Nov MTUKI Meeting, Plas y Brenin, messages. For more information, see our news item, page 6. • North Wales ■ ‘Mountains for the Mind’ campaign • 30th Nov MTBI Meeting, Sport HQ, Dublin Mountain Training Board Ireland and Mountaineering Ireland have agreed 4th December Senior Providers Workshop, to support the ‘Mountains for the Mind’ campaign run by Trail magazine: • Sport HQ, Dublin see www.mountainsforthemind.co.uk. The campaign promotes the mental health benefits of the outdoors, creates an online community of Please see the website or contact the Training Office interested participants and offers inspiration, advice, meets and now on (01) 625 1112 for further details. Please book early training, a really important aspect of this partnership ■ Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 59 Training

News for providers

■ Move to the MTUKI Candidate Management System (CMS) for training course reporting Workshops will be run to train providers in the use of the Candidate Management System (CMS) for course reporting. As award holders, you already have a Mountain Training ID, and as providers of the shared awards, you also have a MT Provider ID. I will be sending guidance information to all providers shortly in preparation for the move to the MT CMS, which will happen in the next 3-4 months. Please log in to your MT account to familiarise yourself from the perspective of the candidate, add some logbook entries and look over your training and assessment records. It will require some time to get used to the new system and the workshops will be more beneﬁcial if you have familiarised yourselves with your own MT accounts. Workshop dates will be emailed shortly. Please contact the Training Ofﬁce if you need help locating your MT ID or logging in.

■ We have added a new page to the Mountaineering website Training courses moderation visit for First Aid Provision for the Mountain Training Awards and Scheme requirements. Please contact the Training Ofﬁce if you wish to add a relevant link to this page.

■ Regarding the MTUKI Walking Awards Review, we would like Training awards, to extend our thanks to all who completed the stakeholder and providers questionnaire. registration and ■ The latest Provider Handbook provider updates and agreement are on the website for viewing and reference. ■ Registration fees for the skills schemes Increases to the registration fees for the leadership and ■ We are calling for applications instructor awards came into effect on January 1st, 2019, for Accredited Training Groups (ATGs); Cappanalea Education & when a registration fee was also introduced for the skills Training Centre and Tollymore schemes. Providers, please continue to support your National Outdoor Centre currently candidates through the registration process. Screenshots hold this status. ATG status is from the website can be very helpful to candidates and can open to all providers or groups of clarify the distinction between scheme or award registration providers. Please contact the and joining the Council, i.e. Mountaineering Ireland Training Ofﬁce for details. membership.

■ A new provider induction course for the new Rock Skills ■ Rock Skills Scheme registration fee for over-18s: €22 (£20). Scheme was run on February 17th, 2020. Please contact the Under-18s free. Training Ofﬁce for details. ■ Mountain Skills Scheme registration fee for over-18s: ■ For upcoming CPD events see the calendar. €22 (£20). Under-18s free.

■ Providers are reminded to continue to submit course reports ■ Indoor Climbing Assistant registration fee: €22 (£20). in a timely manner, and evidence of assessment forms for all pass candidates of the ML, RCI, MPA, LLA and Level 1 Climbing ■ All award and scheme candidates can avail of the reduced Coach awards. These should include useful feedback and Mountaineering Ireland membership rate of €30 at the time actions. of registration.

■ Providers are again reminded to start populating course ■ Congratulations to provider John Healy, who will be reports early to ﬂag any issues pre-course, such as candidates running the ﬁrst Indoor Climbing Assistant course on the with lapsed membership or other council membership (such as island of Ireland ■ the BMC or MS), those not registered and those using the wrong email or membership number. Colleges and outdoor courses are asked to submit fully completed manual registration forms well Photograph: Jane Carney Photograph: ahead of any courses (6-8 weeks) ■ Stay safe out there!

60 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Crossword Spring Competition Win a great prize from Basecamp if your correct completed entry is the ﬁrst drawn from the hat!

1 2 3 4 5 6 Clues Across 7 Donegal lake associated with well known outdoor 7 training and education centre (5,6). 8 To lose the right to something (7). 9 A break or opening between mountains, such as at Dunloe in Kerry (3). 10 To acquaint two (or more persons) with each 8 9 other (9). 15 Native tree whose wood is used to make camáns (3). 17 North American mammal famous for ‘bandit mask’ face pattern and ringed tail (7). 10 11 12 19 To express appreciation or gratitude for something someone has done for you (11). 13 14 Clues Down 1 A high, steep face of rock (5). 15 16 17 18 2 Famous limestone karst landscape in Clare (6). 3 Covering for foot, often of leather (4). 4 Ceased moving, at least temporarily (6). 5 Male deer, typically antlered (4). 19 6 Small gamebird associated with wet grassland, rises abruptly when ﬂushed and zigzags away at speed (5). 11 To provide a new cover to top of house (2-4). 12 Rain-bearing atmospheric masses, may be fluffy (6). CROSSWORD compiled CROSSWORD byMacLOCHLAINN CÓILÍN 13 Actual name of cocoa bean species (5) 14 Kerry village on the south side of the Ring of Kerry (5). WIN 16 To walk a good distance, often across a sleeping bag hills or through rural area (4). and mat combo 18 Still, or nearly still, often in reference worth €289.95 to weather (4).

Thermarest Prolite Mat How to enter 3-Season Saros Sleeping Bag Complete this crossword correctly and be in with a chance to win a prize worth €289.95 from Basecamp Outdoor Store, Jervis Street, Dublin.

Cut out this page or photocopy it and send your completed entry to The Editor, Irish Mountain Log, Mountaineering Ireland, Irish Sport HQ, National Sports Campus, Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, to arrive not later than Friday, May 8th 2020. Don’t forget to include with your entry your full name, address, membership number, telephone number and email address. Entries can also be emailed to [email protected]. The winner will be announced in the Summer 2020 issue of the Irish Mountain Log. Competition prize Basecamp’s generous prize is a sleeping bag and mat combo. This comprises a 3-Season Saros Sleeping

Basecamp Outdoor Store, Dublin and Kilkenny Bag (with straps to attach to a mat) and, to complement it, a Thermarest Prolite Mat that Basecamp

Website: www.basecamp.ie paired up with the sleeping bag. # Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 61

Photograph: Wikipedia How mental preparation can lead to success 1980s. In many hard first ascents in the renowned climber, who made on this topic. Jerry is a world- what climbing, so I was excited to see psychological aspects of there which deal with the There aren’t a lot of books out ISBN 978-1-912560-96-7 Gimme Kraft (2017), 285pp, €31.75, By Jerry Moffatt 62 All you need to know about climbing cracks accessible to me. I found a and there were no clubs know anyone who climbed to start rock climbing, I didn’t When I decided that I wanted ISBN 978-1-911342-76-2 many illustrations and photos, £25.00, Vertebrate Publishing (2020), 320pp, By Pete Whittaker TRAINING FOR CLIMBERS MASTERMIND: MENTAL THE SKILLS AND TECHNIQUES CRACK CLIMBING: MASTERING Jerry Moffatt Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish Mastermind, had to say Books he has interest and you’ve not read hard redpointing. If that’s your is on competition climbing and sections, and a lot of the focus book is broken into quite short ‘Success’ and ‘Motivation.’ The first chapters – ‘Mind Control,’ their goals and successes. their own notes and record space for the reader to make and learning points, as well as graphics highlighting quotes photos and cleverly designed There are lots of inspiring intended to be used as such). journal (and it is partly produced and looks more like a done. The book is beautifully designers and publishers had by the amazing job the Mastermind others. Mayan Smith Gobat Adam Ondra, Margo Hayes, input from experience, as well as having drawn extensively on his own Quarry and started climbing. climber, headed to Dalkey rope and nuts from a former situation and we borrowed a colleague in the same on from jams, cracks in faces strategies for jamming, moving is too. There are methods and and quite an accumulation it manner and widths of cracks – knowledge of how to climb all book is his accumulated is other half of that partnership frustrating off-widths. The awkward, frightening, crack climbing, particularly a partnership specialising in who is half of the masterclass with process was a crack climbing somewhat. Part of that to think I’ve upped my game Pete Whittaker I quickly got stuck into the On first picking up In the intervening years, I like Chris Sharma, I was really struck Tom Randall, Wideboyz, and this and and less themes. more depth of information would have benefitted from these became repetitive and chapters, however, I felt that informative. After a few you should find this much on sports psychology, little enough opportunity to sandstone towers do, there’s gritstone crags or US cracks in the way that English concentration of jamming in Ireland that offer a repertoire. add the methods to your try it, make it work for you, action to be of use – read it, It really needs to be put into about practicing the skills. understand, the book is all of information that is given. time to assimilate the amount though it might take some and easy-to-absorb format, stick in the cracks. of yourself that you might climb and protecting the bits and corners, protecting the A young Jerry Moffat climbing The last section of the book With few enough places Easy as it is to read and It is all in an easy-to-read and bouldering Enjoys trad climbing, sportroutes manager, instructor andcoach. Angela Carlin climbing. use to improve their own and ideas which anyone can they do have common themes incredible achievements, but climbers themselves and their described were as varied as the The mental approaches for mental success in climbing. clear that there’s no one recipe informative and inspiring. It’s the book that I found most challenges. It was this part of prepared mentally for these big walls) and explain how they championships to Patagonian everything from world experiences of success (in describe their most powerful discipline. These climbers different climbers, from every contributed by around thirty pages of short articles format, with nearly seventy takes a completely different www.kevinandedel.com Follow himonhiswebsite, climb fifty 4,000m mountains. heading to the Alps to attempt to mountaineer. This summer, heis Kevin Duffy tape! my own copy – and lots of described in it, so I’ve ordered practise the skills that are I’ll be putting in some effort to recommend this book is that when you get there. find yourself better prepared any of those crags, you might your way and, if you head for whatever chances do come can make the best of the more worthwhile, as you that makes a book like this all walls that have cracks, but seek out cracks or find indoor practice. You may need to The best thing I can say to Rock climber and Climbing wall Spring 2020 Spring Photographs: MrCharco (St Brendan statue), ReeksDistrict.com (Howling Ridge) Spring 2020 Spring legend to produce accounts combined it with folklore and and climbing, and he has is equal to his love of walking telling. His passion for history G O’Dwyer’s reading this book was What I enjoyed most in ISBN 978-1-782189-12-1 one map, no photos, €14.99 (ppbk), Currach Books (2019), 196pp, By John GO’Dwyer his passion for local history, old and new Well-known writer on Irish hillwalks reveals THE IRISH UPLANDS WILD STORIES FROM Statue of St Brendan the Navigator in Fenit, Co Kerry great story- John modern times. Patrick and Brendan, to people from the early saints, of the lives of adventurous Butlers history of the Anglo-Norman learn here the fascinating for its lovely song, but we Mountains. across the Wicklow surrounding his tragic flight the Elizabethan era the political machinations of of on the run to hide. gatherings, and for fugitives suitable places for political mountain regions were hundred years. The isolated turmoil of the last four the ever-changing political fighting the English during recounts tales of rebels background, O’Dwyer Robin Hood-type outlaw. from his farm and became a Lake fame, who was evicted of Mountains will enjoy the story With the uplands in the We all know Slievenamon Challenge walkers will know Hillwalkers in the Comeragh Art O’Neill, William Crotty, and the Young but maybe not of Crotty’s Knockmealdown Mountains, slopes of the Mount Melleray Abbey on the writer meets are not all dead and gone. The priest in attendance. who was buried without a Irelander Island. while soloing on Valentia tragically died in an accident aspects of his life, who Ireland and a rebel in all Reardon, life of free solo climber writer looks at the colourful Howling Ridge. Then the including the first ascent of Kerryman independent-minded with the exploits of the modern climbing scene Croagh Patrick. route from the abbey to ancient Christian pilgrim Abbey, who revived the Frank Fahey history. He also meets knowledge of Cistercian who has a detailed commitment the volunteers tales of courage, showing the also gets its story told, with However, the stories’ heroes Kerry Mountain Rescue We are then brought into Howling Ridge, Carrauntoohil, The Reeks, Co Kerry Thomas Kickham, a frequent visitor to Con Moriarty, of Ballintubber Fr Uinseann Fr Mike of Member of Mountaineering Ireland Honorary Treasurer and Board visitor to the Mournes. Past Blayney Ramblers and regular Nicky Hore have to protecting us all. us and the uplands. healthy interaction between approach to support a for a long-term sustainable Ireland’s uplands. John G calls capacity to destroy all of humans, who have the over millennia but shaped by the personal essay addressed to heritage. to anyone who cherishes our errors, I definitely recommend annoying typographical which, despite a few landscape, this is a book ability to describe the knowledge of history and his Finally, the writer pens a With John G O’Dwyer’s Burren,

Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish

Buy now Buy

This is the book we book the is This

recommend most recommend

highly from our our from highly spring 2020 spring

Hillwalker with reviews a place formed published books. of somerecently presents reviews Peter O’Neill Literary Editor 63 Books

Mountain Views’ 2019 annual is full of great reads

THE SUMMIT ANNUAL No 5, of Poland and Slovakia), as 2019 well as articles on the first Edited by Simon Stewart year of Mountaineering Mountain Views (2020), 60pp, many Ireland’s Hillwalking colour photos and maps, €16.00 Committee, on completing lists, on challenge walking, A new The Summit Annual from and on gear. Mountain Views has been published, downloadable free It also includes a review at of the new Galtee and www.mountainviews.ie/annual Knockmealdown maps from /2019. Printed copies are EastWest Mapping (see also available from Mountain Views, our review, below), a poem priced €16.00 plus postage. celebrating the Burren, and The same high standard of a proposal for yet another previous annuals is maintained hill-list, the 119 significant by editor Simon Stewart, with peaks of Britain and Ireland. photographs of superb quality. It is all rounded off with There are articles from home Irish and international photo (on the Beara peninsula; Sturral galleries. There should be in Donegal with a five-year-old; something here for Achill; Carrowteige in Mayo; everybody. and Ireland’s best and highest waterfalls) and abroad (the Peter O’Neill Literary Editor of Faroe Islands, the High Tatras the Irish Mountain Log

Two excellent new mountain maps from EastWest Mapping

at €20.50 each are also map showing those forest available. roads. Using a modern map, A digital map version I could have seen that the covering all three areas (1,735 stream bed I was following square kilometres) is also was almost parallel to a available for download at forest road, just out of sight €33.99 from the EastWest through the dense planting. Mapping App. Those half-inch maps are Anyone like myself, who thankfully now a distant first went to this area armed memory, thanks to OSi and with the then best available EastWest Mapping. No mapping – the half-inch OS tears need be shed. series – can only marvel at These two maps are the ease of navigation reviewed at greater length afforded by these new maps. in Mountain Views 2019 annual, The Summit (No 5), The painfully slow, stooping reviewed above. GALTEE and with the Comeragh map in a stream bed, progress Those with a particular KNOCKMEALDOWN reviewed in Irish Mountain downhill through dense interest in local place- Two new 1:25,000 maps Log No 129 (Spring 2019), forest in Glengarra Wood in names will also find an from EastWest Mapping complete a series of three the hope of encountering a interesting discussion of EastWest Mapping (2019), paper, detailed maps of the forest road and then the place-name sources in that €12.90, ISBN 978-1-899815-49-4 south-east region. As well R639, which I still remember annual. and ISBN 978-1-899815-47-0 as standard paper folded from my first excursion, sheets at €12.90 each, could have been almost Peter O’Neill Literary Editor of These two maps, together waterproof laminated maps completely avoided with a the Irish Mountain Log 64 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Exploring our landscapes, history and wildlife

he decides to combine a quest visits. Places are a reflection of stories of St Kevin, who founded for some twelve Irish birds he their history, he writes, and it’s the Early Christian monastery has never seen with walks in hard not to get a feel for there, and the miners who various parts of Ireland. history everywhere you go. The settled there in the 1800s to His quest takes him to all very fate of the birds is often tunnel for silver and lead, and four provinces, uplands and tied up with human history, who stripped the valley bare lowlands, islands, rivers and land use and geology. of its native trees. coasts, and results in Ireland And so, in his search for red In Carton demesne in County Through Birds, which was grouse in the Wicklow hills he Kildare, it is the FitzGeralds, an nominated for best Irish- delves into how the Military Anglo-Norman family rewarded published book of the year in Road was built to quell rebel by Strongbow with land and the prestigious An Post Irish factions in upland fastnesses. titles, that pique his interest as Book Awards 2019. He also explores how upland he searches for barn owls. He is rewarded only with hearing a [Spoiler alert: he doesn’t find afforestation has deprived red all of his target birds; most are grouse of much vital heather long-eared owl (pretty good!). rare or elusive and he looks in habitat, not only in Wicklow First and foremost, however, only one area for each one, but across the country. this is a book about birds, their habits, their history and the IRELAND THROUGH BIRDS: presumably to limit his research Searching for ring ouzel in threats they face. But such is JOURNEYS IN SEARCH OF to specific places.] the Gap of Dunloe and the A WILD NATION the skill with which O’Brien Surprisingly, he fails to find a Black Valley in the Reeks of By Conor W O’Brien wields his pen it sounds more cuckoo in a known haunt for Kerry, the presence of jarveys Merrion Press (2019), 250pp, like poetry or drama than a work them in Connemara, apparently prompts him to describe how monochrome illustrations, €16.95 on wildlife conservation. His Queen Victoria essentially (ppbk), ISBN 978-1-785373-05-3 because it is summer’s end and vivid descriptions bring every founded Ireland’s tourism the birds have stopped calling. scene to life, and the words he industry by taking a pony ride Having visited three That in no way takes from uses are unlike any I have ever continents, it dawns on first- what is a most satisfying read, through the gap in the 1860s. read on these subjects. Quite time author Conor O’Brien as O’Brien is a gifted writer On visiting Glendalough to remarkable. (who lives in Wicklow) that he who ably combines the thrill look for goosanders – a highly hardly knows his native land. of the hunt with fascinating elusive duck, but one he finds Cóilín MacLochlainn Designer of the So, being a keen birdwatcher, insights into the places he very quickly – he recounts Irish Mountain Log

WICKLOW WAY New editions of two guides By Jacquetta Megarry & Sandra Bardwell This new edition is a well- through Scotland’s Great Glen, Rucksack Readers Guides (2019, 3rd written detailed guide to the from Fort William to Inverness. It edition), 72pp, 95 colour photos, 13 full- Wicklow Way, section by section, follows the Caledonian Canal and page maps showing different sections of the route in detail (1:35,000), €14.99, each with a detailed map. The passes by four Highland lochs, ISBN 978-1-898481-90-4 guide also gives all the advice you including Loch Ness. It is a low might need to plan your hike, and level route but there is a high level GREAT GLEN WAY background information on alternative section of the route By Jacquetta Megarry & Sandra places of interest, the geology that goes up above Loch Ness Bardwell and the ﬂora and fauna to be and sounds quite challenging. Rucksack Readers Guides (2020, 6th seen. The guide is again in the edition), 80pp, 100+ colour photos, 13 This user-friendly guide is in the Rucksack Readers’ standard user- pages of maps (1:35,000), £13.99, ISBN friendly format and is updated on 978-1-898481-87-4 standard Rucksack Readers pocket-sized format and printed the previous edition to on rainproof paper. It updates the encompass the recent changes in The Wicklow Way is certainly previous editions to map the the route. While I haven’t yet an excellent hike, travelling changes that have occurred to walked this route, I would down as it does through the the route in the last couple of certainly be happy heading off on Dublin and Wicklow Mountains years. Certainly the changes that the Way from Fort William armed the 130km from Marlay Park, have occurred in the section with this guide, with its detailed Dublin, to Clonegal. Much of the above Loch Dan down to route description and the clear route is over 500m and in Oldbridge are well mapped and maps. reasonable weather gives great clearly documented in this new views of the surrounding edition. Patrick O’Sullivan Editor of the countryside and mountains. The Great Glen Way runs 124km Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 65 The Last Word

The Longhope (E7, 6c), which was later Ed Drummond dubbed ‘the hardest sea cliff climb in the world’ and ‘Britain’s only big wall Visionary British climber climbing.’ After a couple of failed attempts at big He also wrote two wall routes there in the previous years, guidebooks, Avon Gorge Drummond finally succeeded in putting and Extremely Severe in up a route on Norway’s 1,050m Troll Wall, the Avon Gorge, and the tallest vertical wall in Europe, where developed a grading he climbed Arch Wall in a marathon system based on (among 21-day ascent in 1972. other things) technical In 1981, he attempted to solo North difficulty and the America Wall on the Nose at El Capitan availability of protection. in Yosemite. After fourteen days and In the late 1960s, Ed three pitches from the top, he was moved to Bangor and trapped in a storm and had to be turned his attention to rescued. North Wales where, In the early 1990s, Ed developed having climbed two of Parkinson’s disease. He continued to hike the hardest routes at and climb, and was able to travel to that time on Clogwyn Britain in 2016 to visit the Isle of Hoy, site Du’r Arddu (‘Cloggy’) near of probably his greatest climb, The Edwin Ward-Drummond, an English Snowdon Peak – The Boldest and Great Longhope. But he became increasingly climber and poet of considerable Wall – he moved his focus to Gogarth on disabled and developed cancer. He notoriety, died in California last year at Anglesey. There, he put up a route that is survived for years but finally succumbed the age of 73. He had been diagnosed still recognised as a classic, The Dream of in April 2019. May he rest in peace. with Parkinson’s disease twenty-five White Horses, now graded as only HVS, years before that, but continued to climb 4c, but which is often still described as Patrick O’Sullivan and be active until almost the end. ‘one of the best routes in the world’! Edwin Ward-Drummond: born May 14th, In his day, Ed Drummond was one of He put up many other often outrageous lines there, including The 1945; died April 23rd, 2019 the most visionary figures in British Moon (E3, 5c), which was described as climbing history ,and he has left a legacy ‘another crumbling horror’ in of stunning routes and some Mountain magazine. outstanding writing. Despite his successes, After qualifying from Wolverhampton Drummond’s climbing style was Technical High School, Ed Drummond sometimes controversial, as he studied philosophy at Bristol University, seemed to have no issues with qualifying in 1967. He lived in Clifton, the using aid to facilitate his progress part of Bristol that is adjacent to the when necessary, much to the Avon Gorge with its sheer limestone disapproval of his peers at that crags. From 1966, Drummond climbed time. there, putting up several hard routes, His classic routes were all later including Last Slip (E3, 5c, 40m, ‘a free climbed, but it is important superb, bold and memorable climb on a to remember that, in those early blank wall’), Krapp’s Last Tape (E3, 5b, days, routes were not cleaned 35m, ‘an Avon rite of passage’) and before the first ascent and there Equator (E2, 5b, a girdle of the Main Wall). was frequently much loose rock on them. Ed moved on from North Wales to Sheffield and started climbing in the Peaks, where he seems to have cleaned up a few aid routes himself as well as putting up some classic new routes of his own. In the early 1970s, Ed overcame some of the great last problems on grit. Attention turned to big wall climbing and he put up another classic at the 350m sea cliffs of Ed Drummond bridging at Froggatt Edge in the Peak District St John’s Head on the Isle of Hoy, Photographs: John Cleare Photographs: 66 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020 WILDERNESS LODGE, Glenmalure, Co. Wicklow Base for Adventure Holidays in stunning Glenmalure Well-Provided Self-Catering Apartments Group Bookings for Hillwalking Clubs http://wildernesslodge.ie and http://wildirishwalkingholidays.com Telephone: 0404 46839 and 087 262 5549 Email: [email protected]

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Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 67 Mountaineering Ireland’s new ‘Irish Peaks’ book will be available soon!

The book Irish Peaks will be published in hardback with detailed descriptions and a beautiful collection of images of the best routes on the 100 highest peaks on the island of Ireland.

A special Mountaineering Ireland Members discounted rate will be offered to support the purchase of this wonderful guidebook. To pre-order your copy, please visit www.mountaineering.ie/shop.

Expected delivery date is spring 2020, assuming no unexpected disruptions to supply – this will be confirmed on www.mountaineering.ie.