Brazil - Just Jaguars!

Naturetrek Tour Report 15 - 26 September 2019

Brazilian Tapir Jaguar

Ocelot Toco Toucan

Report & images kindly compiled by client by Gordon Mitchell

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Brazil - Just Jaguars!

Tour participants: Raul Guarnizo (Tour Leader) and 12 Naturetrek clients

Day 1 Sunday 15th September

Six members of the group travelled from London to Sao Paulo, with LATAM, while four members travelled with BA. Two participants joined the group at Sao Paulo, having travelled the previous day.

Day 2 Monday 16th September

After a few hours in Sao Paulo Airport the group caught a connecting flight to Cuiaba and arrived around 11am, where they met Raul, who took everyone for lunch at a local Brazilian-style restaurant serving buffet style food. It was the hottest day in Cuiaba for 108 years, at 41°C! After lunch the group departed in an air-conditioned minibus for Poccone where we changed to an open safari truck, offering everyone a good view of the Pantanal scenery and wildlife en route to our first resort at Pouso Alegre.

At the Transpantaneira Highway entrance gate we were greeted to the sight of a Greater Rhea and 11 chicks crossing the highway, as well as Red-crested and Yellow-billed Cardinals swooping down to drink from a pond. Monk Parakeets chattered as they flew from bush to bush. A Southern Crested Caracal surveyed the scene as a pair of Plumbeous Ibis searched for tasty morsels in the shallow water. A Ringed Kingfisher suddenly appeared and in the distance Fork-tailed Flycatchers landed on the tall grass stalks of the adjoining grassland. Suddenly a Silver-billed Tanager appeared in a bush on the opposite side of the road, its silvery lower mandible and the velvety plumage shining brightly in the sunshine. So much to see and we haven’t even started yet!

We climbed aboard the truck and set off for the two-hour journey to Pouso Alegre. The Transpantaneira Highway is a dirt road baked hard by the sun and runs directly south in a straight line. There are 120 bridges to cross, offering users great opportunities for viewing the Pantanal wildlife inhabitants. We crossed the famed Transpantaneira bridges slowly and cautiously, allowing us to see the wide variety of water birds along the highway, including Great Egrets, Snowy Egrets, Cattle Egrets, Buff-necked Ibis, Bare-faced Ibis, Cocoi Heron, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Striated Heron, Capped Heron, a Little Blue Heron, Limpkin and Roseate Spoonbill. Grey-necked Wood Rail, Wattled Jakanas and Sungrebe were also observed wading amongst the Yacare Caiman and Water Hyacinth in the numerous ponds and ditches viewed from the truck. Savannah Hawks, Great Black Hawks, Roadside Hawks, Black Vulture and Turkey Vulture put in regular appearances in the sky above, on the ground or on fence posts bordering the highway.

Our first mammal sighting was inevitably Brazil’s biggest rodent, the Capybara, with Giant Cowbirds in attendance. As the sun began to set, we saw a large flock of Wood Stork assembling on grassland next to the road.

After driving for about two hours we left the main highway and proceeded down the seven-kilometre entrance road to our ranch style resort at Pouso Alegre, observing, with a spotlight, Brown and Red Brocket Deer, a Crab- eating Fox and a Brazilian Tapir! Raul stopped the truck and rescued a juvenile Yacare Caiman from being squashed in the middle of the road, giving everyone an opportunity to observe this reptile up close!

Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

We arrived at the resort around 5.45pm, settled into our comfortable air-conditioned rooms and ate dinner at 7.30pm, before completing our first checklist and retiring to bed around 9pm.

Day 3 Tuesday 17th September

The staff feed the birds at 6am, so many of us got up early to see the incredible spectacle of Bare-faced Curassow, Chaco Chachalacas, Ruddy Ground Dove, Pale-vented Pigeon, Cattle Tyrant, Greater and Lesser Kiskadee, Saffron Finch, Cowbirds, Red-rumped Cacique and Crested and Yellow-billed Cardinals feasting on the bounty. After breakfast these birds were joined by Crested Oropendola and around eight Toco Toucans. The Toucans pick up tasty morsels with an unexpected deftness, given the size of their bills! A number of colourful Chestnut-eared Arracari, members of the Toucan family, also appeared and quickly established themselves as the bird to photograph. Later in the morning some of the group saw a Campo Flicker, a member of the woodpecker family, on grassland near the resort stables. A raucous noise announced the presence of the world’s largest parrot, a pair of Hyacinth Macaws, flitting from tree to tree at the back of the resort. Unfortunately, not many of the group saw them. However, those who did not were lucky enough to see a couple of Crab-eating Foxes.

As the group prepared for a morning walk, a Marsh Deer appeared, along with a small number of Red Brocket Deer on the distant grassland in front of the resort’s rooms.

The morning walk around the grounds revealed a family of Coatis crossing a small bridge laden with crab and snail shells, left wedged in the wooden slats by the predators using them to get at the contents! Four Greater Rheas showed complete indifference to our presence as they walked through the tall grass. A large number of birds were seen during the walk including Yellow-rumped Cacique, Undulated Tinamou, Chestnut-capped Blackbird, Rusty-collared Seedeater, Greyish Saltator, Forest Elaenia, Black-capped Donacobius and Smooth- billed Ani. The walk ended at the edge of wetlands with Roseate Spoonbill and Wood Stork sharing a tree, along with a Rufescent Tiger Heron. As we returned to the resort Raul spotted a Rufous Hornero on sentry duty next to its dome-shaped mud nest on the branch of a tree. As the resort buildings came into view a large Tegu Lizard blocked our path and posed nicely for photographs. It was getting very hot as we approached mid-day. By lunch- time the temperature had reached 38°C.

After lunch a pair of Jabiru Storks appeared at the waterhole in front of the rooms. They are the largest flying birds in the Pantanal. When they get excited or anxious their throat sacs turn a bright scarlet. They were joined by a Bare-faced Ibis before a smaller Tegu Lizard meandered along the concrete footpath between the rooms and under our safari truck, before disappearing in the undergrowth.

At 3.30pm we embarked on an afternoon drive along the resort’s entry road and soon encountered a Blue- throated Piping Guan on a large branch, with its fleshy dewlap throat sac prominently on display, before it flew off. Apart from the waterbirds previously mentioned, we also observed Whistling Heron, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Black-collared Hawk, Sunbitten, Southern Lapwing, Scaled Dove, Amazon Kingfisher, Purplish Jay, Rufous-bellied Thrush and Chalk-browed Mockingbird. Amongst the mammals seen during the drive were Red and Brown Brocket Deer. As the sun began to drop from the sky, we stopped at a waterhole completely covered by Water Hyacinth and surrounded by forest and grassland to witness the sun going down. Amazingly, a Brazilian Tapir emerged from the forest, causing one member of the group to flee from their ablutions, as it headed straight for the water, walking within metres of our truck. We observed the Tapir for some time until it

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Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

decided to take the plunge and disappeared up to its neck in Water Hyacinth. By now it was dark, and the spotlight picked out a Capybara family with two youngsters, settling down for the night next to a small pond. A Crab-eating Fox, the most common of the region’s canids, groomed itself in the spotlight next to the resort road. A Paraque, a type of Nightjar, lay very still on the ground and a Potoo was also picked up by the sharp eyes of Raul, helped by the spotlight! Amazingly, we came across a juvenile Tapir grazing in the bushes next to the road. It appeared to be very young so mum must have been present nearby, although we did not see her. Our next mammal was a Crab-eating Racoon, which uncharacteristically offered us a good photo opportunity by remaining in full view, whilst foraging amongst the Water Hyacinth. A little later another Crab-eating Fox appeared on the Transpantaneira Highway road and quickly disappeared into the undergrowth. We finally returned for dinner at 7.30pm, only to come across another Tapir foraging at the edge of the accommodation in the resort! Three Brazilian Tapirs on our first full day!

After dinner we completed the checklist and retired to bed contemplating the adventures that lay ahead.

Day 4 Wednesday 18th September

It was an early start this morning, with breakfast at 5am to enable us to leave the resort around 8am for the 120- kilometre drive to the end of the Transpantaneira Highway at ‘’Porto Jofre’’ for a short boat trip to the Jaguar Flotel. The drive took four hours. We kept the stops to a minimum to avoid being late, but still managed to see our first Howler Monkeys high up in the canopy. They were sufficiently startled to stay put and observe these humans who had stopped below, giving us a good photo opportunity. We also saw many of the birds we had seen previously, including the noisy Chaco Chachalacas (our early morning alarm callers), as well as some new birds including Yellow-chevroned Parakeet, Turquoise-fronted Amazon (also called Blue-fronted Parrot), White- winged Swallow, Grey-breasted Martin and a Swainson’s Flycatcher. Neotropic Cormorant stood in a line along the rail of one of the Transpantaneira bridges, like sentries on guard duty, as we crossed.

Many in the group had wanted to see the Hyacinth Macaws, so it was opportune when 10 of these birds were spotted in a tree next to the road. After several minutes and many photographs, we set off again for Porto Jofre, stopping briefly at a small resort for a toilet break. Unbelievably, the trees in the resort contained several Hyacinth Macaws, cackling loudly and dazzling us with their beautiful plumage in the heat of the day, as the temperature again rose to 38°C. A pair of Buff-necked Ibis also made an appearance, causing more delay. We left determined to catch up time and only to stop for the most outstanding wildlife.

We finally arrived at Porto Jofre at 11.15am and boarded our boat for the short journey up the Cuiaba and Piquiri Rivers to the Jaguar Flotel at the mouth of the Tres Irmaos River. Upon arrival we were given a briefing about life on a floating hotel and allocated our spacious and extremely comfortable rooms.

We ate lunch and boarded our jaguar safari boat at 2.30pm for our first boat trip. The cool breeze was very welcome in the heat and everyone was hoping for a Jaguar sighting. We immediately came across a sandy beach with Southern Screamers, Yellow-billed Terns, Large-billed Terns, Black Skimmers and Southern Lapwing. Further along the beach we saw a pair of Capybara paddling their webbed feet in the water and casually observing us as we passed by. It is hard to believe that these enormous creatures are related to Guinea Pigs! On another stretch of sand, we observed a Jabiru Stork preening itself, whilst a number of Black Vultures assembled on the ground.

Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

Partly hidden by the undergrowth on a bank in the Tres Irmaos River where it divides the river, we came across our first Jaguar, the third-largest big cat in the world. Locally known as Nessi, a five-year-old female, she asleep in the shade. There was much excitement from the group and a great deal of tail swooshing and twitching from Nessi, due to the many flies pestering the animal! We waited for nearly one-and-a-half hours before Nessi finally raised her head and gave us all the chance to take her picture!

Incredibly, we moved on to another Jaguar that had been seen further upstream on a grass covered sandbank. The Jaguar’s head with those black blotches and twitching ears were the only part visible as we arrived. Fortunately, after just a few minutes the cat stood up and wandered along the sandbank, enabling us to take in the large head and stocky appearance, before disappearing in the undergrowth! Two Jaguar sightings on our first boat ride!

We returned to the Flotel for dinner and to check our photos. The Flotel is a Jaguar Research Center, with a photo dossier of the faces and anatomy of all the local jaguars that have been photographed within the research area. Every Jaguar has a different pattern of head markings enabling the researchers to identify individuals. Apparently, anyone photographing a jaguar not previously recorded is given the honour of naming the cat, so a photo check is essential. Unfortunately, our second sighting was not a new jaguar but Xane, a female already known to the researchers! Never mind, it was still wonderful to see these beautiful animals.

After dinner we attended a talk on the work of the research team and participated in a healthy discussion about future prospects for jaguars and Pantanal wildlife in general.

Day 5 Thursday 19th September

Our early morning boat ride started well, with a Jaguar strolling with purpose, along the bank of the river through the long grass in search of a comfortable place to lie down and rest. It turned out to be a female Jaguar called Amber by the researchers. She stopped at a spot close to the river’s edge, under a tree and partly hidden from our view. She proceeded to groom herself with an incredibly long tongue. Unbelievably, another Jaguar came into view along the grassy sandbank, on the same side of the river, about 50 metres from Amber’s position. We sensed that there might be some action should the two cats meet. However, the second Jaguar, called Ginger, knowing Amber’s proximity, veered off into the undergrowth and did not re-appear.

Pleased with our two encounters, we moved off down river and came across a family of about four Giant River Otters hunting for fish in the murky water. Surprisingly, these otters are really big, up to two metres in length. They were not keen on sharing any food they caught, so any individual with a fish quickly headed for the nearest overhanging branch to hide, whilst consuming their meal. The creamy blotches covering the throat, unique to each animal, were clearly visible as they feasted. Otters are also very vocal, barking, growling and squealing to each other. They were particularly interested in some people who had scrambled up onto the riverbank and did their best to warn the intruders off with constant gruff barks! They are also incredibly agile and fast swimmers, making it very difficult to track and keep up with, even in a boat with an outboard motor!

After the early morning excitement, we ventured off the main river down a tributary where we had a good view of a Cocoi Heron, the largest of the Herons and another Great Potoo, resting on a branch, trying to look like an extension of the tree. Apart from the usual waterbirds, we also saw Peach-fronted Parakeets, Anhinga, Squirrel

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Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

Cuckoo, Black-fronted Nunbird, Great Antshrike, Mato Grosso Antbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird and a Rusty-margined Guan.

As we made our way back to the Flotel, we observed three adult Capybara lying on a sand split, on the opposite side of the fork in the river. As we focussed on our return and good fortune during the morning boat ride, we were surprised to see two Black-striped Tufted Capuchin Monkeys feeding on seeds in a tree overlooking the river. These agile and noisy monkeys didn’t hang around very long and photographing these primates was made even more difficult by the dense foliage.

After lunch, a walk on deck enabled some of us to see and photograph a Black-backed Water Tyrant perched on a fallen tree at the stern of the Flotel.

At 2.30pm we set off for our afternoon boat trip, passing a nesting Black Skimmer and Yellow-billed Terns scurrying across the sandy beach. Unexpectedly, we came across the Jaguar called Nessi, swimming across the river to the strip of land dividing one part of the river from the other. The current was quite strong, but Jaguars are really strong swimmers and show no fear when they are in water. She clambered up the bank and through the tall reeds and grasses, intent on getting to the other side. By now the word was out and large numbers of boats converged on this area, jostling for the best viewing point. Nessi emerged from the undergrowth and cautiously made her way to the trunk of a fallen tree that jutted out into the river over thick vegetation. This was clearly a favourite spot. After a short while scanning the surface below, the Jaguar dived into the water, seemingly after a Yacare Caiman, but to no avail: she emerged and climbed back up onto the log where she shook off the water and settled down. We observed her for the remainder of the afternoon until she decided it was time to go and headed back into the undergrowth.

We headed down river and stopped to enjoy a sundowner before returning for dinner. Amazingly, a large male Jaguar appeared on the sandy beach occupied by the skimmers and terns. This enormous cat proceeded to walk with some purpose along the beach parallel to our boat, which gave us some magnificent photo opportunities. The terns and skimmers did their best to harass him, but to no avail. The big male was clearly on a mission and nothing was going to stop him. He reached a grassy area and lay down, before rolling over and standing up. Suddenly he turned around and marched back down the beach to the point where he had first emerged and disappeared over the horizon. The research staff later confirmed that this was the dominant male in the area and was called Marley.

We returned to the Flotel completed the checklist and enjoyed dinner, before some of the group attended another wildlife talk given by the research staff.

Day 6 Friday 20th September

We had just left the Flotel for our early morning boat trip when we encountered a family of six Giant River Otters, including three noisy pups. One of the adults was eating a fish on a partly sunken tree trunk, surrounded by the squealing pups, clearly hungry and doing their best to get the attention of the adult. Eventually the pups moved in and one managed to grab a piece of the fish before disappearing under the surface.

Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

A little later we came across four Black-striped Tufted Capuchin Monkeys extracting seeds from very long seed pods high up on a branch relatively free of foliage, offering very good photo opportunities. Unusually, these monkeys are normally very energetic and constantly moving, but these four seemed content to concentrate on extracting the seeds. Nearby, two Howler Monkeys peered down from the canopy, before deciding to relocate to a safer part of the tree, where the foliage was much thicker and easier to hide in.

Our next sighting was another Greater Potoo attempting to blend in with the tree branch it was resting on, to avoid predation by pretending to be a broken branch and remaining very still. By now it was getting very hot, but nobody was really bothered when we suddenly came across more Giant River Otters. One of the otters was attempting to consume a rather large Lungfish that was almost as big as it. The determined otter made short work of subduing the fish and proceeded to eat it at great speed turning the water red around it!

It was now around 10.30am. We came across a number of tourist boats shadowing a Jaguar walking along the riverbank and eventually slipping into the river to swim to the other side. It was Nessi making her way to a favourite spot on the fallen tree trunk. After lying there for about 45 minutes, she decided to retreat to the shade of the undergrowth behind her. It was now time to return for lunch and consider the exceptional wildlife viewing that morning.

The afternoon boat ride involved a journey down river to a large hole in the riverbank which contained a Yellow Anaconda. These snakes are constrictors and can grow up to 4.6 metres in length. The anaconda remained well hidden and nobody was volunteering to try and get it out!

Almost immediately, we encountered another family of five Giant River Otters grooming themselves on a sunken tree branch close to the riverbank. The largest member of the family swam to the riverbank and entered a hole before urinating in front of what was clearly their Holt. After urinating it used its powerful webbed feet to distribute the urine over a large area and to ensure that anyone sniffing around would be in no doubt about who lived there. The otters’ antics were mesmerising, and the proximity gave us a very close view of their incredible canines!

A number of water birds patrolled the shallows including Sungrebe, Green Kingfisher, Anhinga, Green Ibis and Limpkin. We also saw a Grey-crested Cacholete and Blue-crowned Trogon.

We decided to make our way upriver in response to a call that a Jaguar had been seen, but in our haste, Ray lost his hat in the breeze, so we turned around to try and recover it. Unbelievably, we heard the sound of otters barking in unison at something. As we moved towards them, Gordon spotted a Jaguar emerging from the vegetation overhanging the river. It swam about 25 metres before emerging on the riverbank and entering the thick undergrowth, before disappearing from view. It turned out later to be Marley, the big male we had seen the previous day, with a very distinctive large black patch on the inside of its left front leg. Buoyed by our success, although we failed to find Ray’s hat, we swiftly made our way to the site where the other Jaguar had been spotted. It was Ginger, making her way along the edge of the riverbank through thick bushes and over fallen logs and branches. She was clearly very focussed on something. She continued for some distance until she came to the edge of a sandy beach with three resting Capybara. The Capybara were clearly blissfully ignorant of her presence. The Jaguar fixed her eyes on the target and moved very stealthily forward until she was around 20 metres from her quarry. The ground between the Jaguar and Capybara was very open, so it was unlikely that she

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Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

would be able to move any further forward without being seen. So, Ginger decided to keep low and still on the edge of the water and wait for the sun to go down. Unfortunately, we had to leave because darkness was descending, and it would have been dangerous travelling on the river at night. Did she get her meal...alas we shall never know!

Day 7 Saturday 21st September

This morning we returned to the spot where we had seen the Yellow Anaconda. It was now out of the hole and copulating with a male on the grassy riverbank! Female anacondas are much larger than males, but both snakes were entwined, and it was difficult to see their heads buried in the thick grass, so we decided to leave them in peace and move on.

Another trip up a tributary revealed a rare sighting of a Boat-billed Heron, a nocturnal bird that Brendan in particular, had been hoping to photograph. Its bill is very wide and flat, shaped like the keel of a boat. This sighting was quickly followed by a Crane Hawk scanning the area for potential prey. These birds of prey have ‘double-jointed’ tarsal bones, allowing them to reach into tree cavities for potential prey. A little later we came across a pair of Great Black Hawks mating at the top of a bare tree.

Other birds encountered during the day included Solitary Cacique, Unicolored Blackbird, Sand Martin (Bank Swallow), White-rumped Swallow, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Little Woodpecker and an Osprey. The later are very uncommon in the Pantanal.

The afternoon boat trip started at 2.45pm with Giant River Otters frolicking around a fallen tree partially submerged near the riverbank. Movement in the trees above revealed a small troupe of Black-striped Tufted Capuchins cautiously descending from the safety of the trees high branches to drink from the river. It was not as hot as it had been on previous days but was still 35°C!

Raul informed us that a Jaguar had been sighted at the end of a tributary off the main river, which was very shallow and potentially difficult to negotiate in our boat. Nevertheless, we headed off and eased our way slowly to a point where we could see the unmistakeable image of a Jaguar lying in the shade of a small tree. It was Nessi. Suddenly, she jumped to her feet and gazed into the thick knot of Water Hyacinth bordering the area of the bank she was standing on. After a few seconds she was off! Leaping into the vegetation and disappearing from sight momentarily, she emerged dripping wet and looking a little forlorn. Whatever it was that she saw, had escaped her clutches. Nessi made her way back to the spot in the shade, glancing at her audience before yawning and revealing her sharp canine teeth and incredibly long tongue. She didn’t stop but moved slowly along the shoreline, through the undergrowth and up onto a fallen tree trunk covered in dead grass. Another deep yawn followed as she sniffed the air and grass beneath her feet, before scanning the people in the boats now lined up in front of her. We were expecting her to stay awhile, but no, Nessi had other ideas. She climbed down from the tree trunk and continued her trek back along the tributary bank before disappearing in some thick vegetation. Many of the smaller boats moved on expecting her to re-appear further along the shoreline. Our boat was much bigger and less manoeuvrable, so we were a little slower making our way through the shallow water. This turned out to be rather fortunate. The tall grass adjacent to our boat began to shake. Suddenly, Nessi emerged from the water and thick vegetation with a small Yacare Caiman firmly gripped between her jaws! She made her way up the bank and through the dense grass before disappearing down the other side.

Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

After the excitement, we slowly made our way back to the main river, before finding a spot to stop, watch the sun go down and enjoy a cooling sundowner.

Day 8 Sunday 22nd September

We said goodbye to the Flotel and left at 7am for the 15-kilometre boat ride back to Porto Jofre. We climbed aboard our Safari truck for the four-hour journey to our next destination, the SouthWild Pantanal Lodge, to spend the last three nights of our trip. The drive back up the Transpantaneira Highway was largely uneventful, although Raul did spot a two-metre Black-tailed Cribo Snake crossing the road ahead, which then quickly disappeared into the undergrowth, before anyone could get a good view.

We passed many of the wetland birds we had previously seen, but did stop to view a rare male Anhinga, its black plumage gleaming in the sun, perched on a branch close to the road. A little later we saw four Black-bellied Whistling Ducks foraging in a water filled ditch before a bathroom break enabled us to re-acquaint ourselves with the Hyacinth Macaws we had previously seen, when we stopped at the same place when travelling in the other direction.

We arrived at the SouthWild Pantanal lodge around 11.30am. It was still very hot, although clouds were now appearing in the sky and the temperature had fallen to 35°C! After settling into our air-conditioned rooms, some of us climbed the stairs of the local observation tower to view nearby nesting Jabiru Storks and take in the wonderful panorama. The lodge is situated next to the Pixiam River and a closer look amongst the vegetation lining the bank of the river revealed four very small juvenile Yacare Caiman attempting to hide from view! A family group of six Capybaras wandered the grounds and munched the grass outside the rooms.

The resort offers very good opportunities for viewing Pantanal birds including Scarlet-headed Blackbird, Orange-backed Troupial, Shiny Cowbird, Giant Cowbird, Baywing, Masked Gnatcatcher, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Forest Elaenia, Great and Lesser Kiskadee, Purplish Jay, Social Flycatcher, Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Pale- legged Hornero, Yellow-chinned Spinetail and our early morning alarm caller, the Chaco Chachalaca. A beautiful Vermillion Flycatcher also made an appearance, flitting amongst the trees and bushes next to the river.

After enjoying lunch, we commenced our first boat ride on the Pixiam River. Our large group required two boats for the three-hour trip. We went down stream to explore the dense forest areas that bordered the river, encountering many of the waterbirds we had been seeing throughout the trip. We did stop at a point on the riverbank where a rare and stunning multi-coloured Agami Heron was lurking in the undergrowth. Unfortunately, the efforts of our crew to draw it out with tasty fish morsels did not work and it stayed hidden in the shade, offering only a quick glimpse of its beautiful plumage. Still, the fish morsels were not wasted as a Southern Crested Caracara moved in and stole the lot, before a large Yacare Caiman could get to it from under one of the boats!

We had seen Ringed, Amazon and Green Kingfisher during our trip, so it was a surprise to find the smallest member of the family, an American Pygmy Kingfisher perched on a branch overlooking, but very close to the surface of the river. The sighting of another Boat-billed Heron rounded off a very productive trip before returning to the lodge.

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Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

Before dinner, we walked to the Lodge’s hide, occasionally visited by wildlife, to feed on the food put out by the staff. We had been waiting for about 10 minutes when our jaws dropped, because out of the darkness emerged an Ocelot! This small wild cat is covered with solid black spots on a creamy yellow background with a few streaks and stripes running from the back of the neck to the tip of the tail. This beautiful feline moved forward very precisely and cautiously, without any apparent sound. Its ears twitched forward and backwards listening to the sounds emanating from the forest. You could almost hear a pin drop in the hide! We were all completely mesmerised! The sound of camera shutters going off did not seem to faze the Ocelot at all. It moved up onto the branches in front of the hide to eat the small morsels placed there by the staff, offering incredible photographic opportunities. Amazingly, as if the sight of the Ocelot was not enough, a second Ocelot emerged from bushes that fringed the area in front of the hide! The presence of this second cat was not welcomed by our first Ocelot. She immediately ran over and both cats remained still with their faces firmly pressed together. A short period of what sounded like humming and purring led to a standoff, before the second visitor retreated and disappeared. Our first Ocelot returned to the branches, finished all the scraps left and nonchalantly sauntered off leaving 12 very excited and gobsmacked guests behind!!

As we left the hide another unexpected sight greeted us, a Brazilian Tapir suddenly appeared from the forest! The heaviest of South Americas land mammals, it scanned the grassland with its elongated proboscis smelling for fruit and edible vegetation to eat. Whilst it has very good hearing and smell, its eyesight is not so good, so it moved very close to us, before moving off back to the forest. Absolutely incredible!!

After the unexpected excitement of these sightings, we returned to the lodge for dinner, before embarking on a nocturnal drive along the Lodge’s entrance road where we encountered Red Brocket Deer, Crab-eating Raccoon and a Large Tarantula Spider.

Day 9 Monday 23rd September

We commenced our morning boat ride at 7.30am seeing many of the waterbirds we had enjoyed throughout the trip. We stopped to observe the crew throwing fish scraps into the river where Black-collared Hawk and Great Black Hawk swooped low over the water before collecting the scraps in their talons and flying to a suitable tree to devour the food. A troupe of Black-striped Tufted Capuchin Monkeys appeared in the trees overlooking the river, searching for nuts and seeds. They were so busy foraging and gorging, that our presence didn’t appear to put them off, enabling us to get good photographs.

Later, we received a message that a Jaguar had been sighted down river from our lodge. This was not uncommon, but extremely rare to see these cats around this area of the Pantanal, where they tend to be more secretive and remain out of view. Both boats turned around and started back down the river as quickly as possible to reach the Jaguar before it disappeared. Unfortunately, only one boat was able to get there in time to see the Jaguar walking along the riverbank. The second boat had engine failure and came to a halt in the middle of the river! After a short period of time the crewman managed to get the engine going, albeit slowly, and arrived after the jaguar had settled down under a tree, partly hidden by the undergrowth. Needless to say, some of the group were not very pleased, but still enjoyed the opportunity to see one of these wonderful cats again. Raul arranged for those members of the group who had missed seeing the Jaguar walk along the bank, to return before lunch, just in case the cat decided to emerge from its resting place. Unfortunately, after 45 minutes waiting, it did not move, and everyone went back to the lodge for lunch.

Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

After lunch some of us explored the trees and bushes close to the lodge, observing Yellow-chevroned Parrots and a Sayaca Tanager before embarking at 3.30pm, on an afternoon drive back up the lodge entrance road and onto the Transpantaneira Highway. We observed a Tegu Lizard moving through the undergrowth and a Marsh Deer stealthily negotiating ‘limbo style’ a wire fence to get to greener pastures. In the distance we saw a small mammal moving with some speed in our direction. It was an Azara’s Agouti, a member of the rodent family. Agoutis are very shy and solitary animals, so it was very good to see this one. Incredibly, as the sun began to disappear a Brazilian Tapir came out of the thicket, close to the road, enabling all of us to get a good view before it went back into the bushes.

In addition, we also saw a number of birds, including a Whistling Heron, Savannah Hawk, juvenile Grey Hawk and a Laughing Falcon, our first falcon of the trip! After the sun went down, we came across a Pauraque sitting in the dusty road, preparing to hunt for insects.

We returned to the lodge for dinner and completed two days of checklists before going to bed.

Day 10 Tuesday 24th September

Our last boat safari on the Pixiam River started at 7.30am. The water was extremely calm, and the reflected trees and bushes created a beautiful picture on the surface of the river as the sun rose in the sky.

As we made our way to the area on the river where we had seen the Agami Heron, a Giant River Otter popped its head out of the water and looked at us, with some curiosity, before diving down and emerging with a fish. A little further down river Raul spotted a Green Iguana clumsily making its way over some broken branches that had fallen onto the riverbank. Incredibly, a second Green Iguana was sighted basking on a bush.

We made our way to a tree where a Great Horned Owl had been seen. When we arrived, we got out of the boats and clambered up the bank to get a better view of the only owl we had seen on the trip. Its large eyes peered down at us, as we took its photograph. As we observed the owl, a solitary Coati bolted from beneath the tree, on the other side, with his tail pointed straight up to the sky!

We also viewed many of the wetland birds we have enjoyed on the trip, but in particular Capped Heron, Whistling Heron, Cocoi Heron, Anhinga, Little Blue Heron, Great and Snowy Egret, Striated Heron, Boat-billed Heron, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Bare-faced Ibis, Plumbeous Ibis, Buff-necked Ibis, Jabiru, Black and Lesser yellow-headed Vulture, Grey-necked Wood Rail, Sungrebe, Limpkin, Southern Lapwing, Southern Crested Caracara, Wattled Jacana and a Solitary Sandpiper.

We returned to the lodge earlier than usual at 10.50am for, what appeared to be a very long siesta. Some of us used the time to observe the birds in the grounds of the lodge, including a Silver-beaked Tanager, Palm Tanager, Yellow-rumped Cacique, Solitary Cacique, Orange-backed Troupial, Vermillion Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird, Rusty-margined Flycatcher, Social Flycatcher, Purplish Jay, Kiskadees, Black Donacobius, Pale-crested Woodpecker, Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper and Glittering-bellied Emerald hummingbird.

Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

After lunch we went for an afternoon walk in the forest adjoining the lodge at 3.30pm. As we entered the forest we could hear distant thunder and it was not long before a few drops of rain started to fall. The thunder became much closer, although the rain held off enabling us to complete the walk without getting too wet. During the walk, Raul spotted a Howler Monkey and infant high up in the canopy. The mischievous juvenile could not keep still and peered down through a gap in the branches at the commotion below, giving us a chance to take its picture.

We returned to the lodge at 4.30pm where the staff had laid out a few nibbles and drinks to thank us for our custom. Unfortunately, the heavens opened and the rain began to fall, forcing everyone to retreat for cover!

Fortunately, the rain stopped in time for us to make another visit to the Hide. However, on this occasion nothing appeared, so after 40 minutes we returned to the lodge for dinner.

Most of the group decided not to take part in the final truck safari, so Gordon, Sandra, Jane and Raul set out on the lodge road after dark, armed with a spotlight and our cameras. We saw Crab-eating Fox, Red Brocket Deer and a Tarantula before returning at 9pm.

Day 11 Wednesday 25th September

We left the SouthWild Pantanal around 8am, following a night of thunder, lightning and heavy rain, which had made driving conditions very difficult. Fortunately, our driver is very experienced and managed to get everyone back to Cuiaba, except for a minor breakdown...quickly fixed, for the flight to Sao Paulo and beyond.

Day 12 Thursday 26th September

Those returning to the UK today arrived at Heathrow, after an incredible trip.

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Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

Species Lists

Mammals (✓=recorded but not counted)

September Common name Scientific name 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 1 Common Oppossum Didelphis marsupialis ✓ 2 Greater Fishing Bat Nocilio leporinus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 3 Proboscis Bat Rhynchonycteris naso ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 4 Brazilian Tapir Tapirus terrestris 2 3 1 1 5 Giant River Otter Pteronura brasiliensis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 6 Southern River Otter Lutra longicaudis ✓ 7 South American Coati Nasua nasua ✓ 11 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 8 Crab-eating Racoon Procyon cancrivorous 2 ✓ 9 Crab-eating Fox Cerdocyon thous 2 3 ✓ ✓ 10 Black Howler Monkey Alouatta caraya 2 2 2 11 Black-capped Capuchin Monkey Cebus apella 2 4 5 5 12 Azara's Agouti Dasyprocta azarae 2 2 13 Capybara Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 14 Marsh Deer Blastocerus dichotomous ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 15 Red Brocket Deer Mazama americana ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 16 Brown Brocket Deer Mazama gouazoubira 2 ✓ ✓ ✓ 17 Jaguar Panthera onca 2 4 3 1 1 18 Ocelot Felis pardalis 2 19 Brazilian Rabbit Sylvilagus brasiliensis 2 ✓

Birds

1 Greater Rhea Rhea americana ✓ ✓ ✓ 2 Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus ✓ 3 Chaco Chachalaca Ortalis canicollis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 4 Rusty-margined Guan Penelope superciliaris ✓ ✓ ✓ 5 Chestnut-bellied Guan Penelope ochrogaster ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 6 Blue-throated Piping-Guan Pipile cumanensis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 7 Bare-faced Curassow Crax fasciolata ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 8 Southern Screamer Anhima torquata ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 9 White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata ✓ 10 Black-bellied Whistling Duck Dendrocygna autummalis ✓ 11 Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata ✓ ✓ 12 Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis ✓ ✓ ✓ 13 Grey Potoo (Common Potoo) Nyctibius griseus ✓ 14 Lesser Nighthawk Chordeiles acutipennis ✓ ✓ 15 Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis ✓ ✓ ✓ 16 Scissor-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis brasiliana ✓ 17 Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris ✓ ✓ 18 Guira Cuckoo Guira guira ✓ 19 Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 20 Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 21 Little Cuckoo Coccycua (Piaya) minuta ✓ 22 Picazuro Pigeon Columba picazuro ✓ 23 Pale-vented Pigeon Columba cayennensis ✓ ✓ ✓ 24 Scaled Dove Columbina squamatta ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 25 Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti ✓ ✓ ✓ 26 Picui Ground Dove Columbina picui ✓

Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

September Common name Scientific name 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 27 Long-tailed Ground Dove Uropelia campestris ✓ 28 White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 29 Sungrebe Heliornis fulica ✓ ✓ ✓ 30 Grey-necked Wood Rail Aramides cajaneus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 31 Limpkin Aramus guarauna ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 32 Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ Hoploxypterus (Vanellus) 33 Pied Plover (Lapwing) ✓ ✓ ✓ cayanus 34 Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 35 Solitary Sandpiper Calidris bairdii ✓ ✓ 36 Black Skimmer Rynchops niger ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 37 Yellow-billed Tern Sterna superciliaris ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 38 Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 39 Sunbittern Eurypyga helias ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 40 Wood Stork Mycteria americana ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 41 Jabiru Jabiru mycteria ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 42 Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax olivaceus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 43 Anhinga Anhinga anhinga ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 44 Plumbeous Ibis Harpiprion caerulescens ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 45 Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 46 Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis 2 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 47 Bare-faced Ibis (Whispering Ibis) Phimosus infuscatus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 48 White-faced Ibis Plegadis chihi ✓ 49 Roseate Spoonbill Ajaia ajaja ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 50 Rufescent Tiger Heron Tigrisoma lineatum ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 51 Agami Heron Agamia agami ✓ 52 Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearia ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 53 Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax ✓ ✓ 54 Striated Heron Butorides striatus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 55 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 56 White-necked (Cocoi) Heron Ardea cocoi ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 57 Great Egret Egretta alba ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 58 Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 59 Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix 3 ✓ ✓ 60 Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea ✓ ✓ ✓ 61 Snowy Egret Egretta thula ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 62 Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 63 Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 64 Black Vulture Coragyps atratus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 65 Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus ✓ 66 Long-winged Harrier Circus buffoni ✓ 67 Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea ✓ ✓ 68 Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 69 Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 70 Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens ✓ ✓ 71 Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 72 Great Black Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 73 Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 74 White-tailed Hawk Geranoaetus albicaudatus ✓ 75 Great Horned Owl Bubo virginianus ✓ ✓ 76 Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui ✓ 77 American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea ✓

Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

September Common name Scientific name 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 78 Green-and-rufous Kingfisher Chloroceryle inda ✓ 79 Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 80 Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 81 Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquata ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 82 Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 83 Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa morphoeus ✓ ✓ ✓ 84 Chestnut-eared Araçari Pteroglossus castanotis ✓ ✓ ✓ 85 Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 86 Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus ✓ 87 Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris ✓ ✓ 88 Pale-crested Woodpecker Celeus lugubris ✓ 89 Southern Crested Caracara Caracara plancus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 90 Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans ✓ 91 Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis ✓ 92 Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 93 Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 94 Yellow-faced Parrot Alipiopsitta xanthops ✓ ✓ ✓ Turquoise-fronted Amazon (Blue- 95 Amazona aestiva ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ fr.Parrot) 96 Hyacinth Macaw Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 97 Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 98 Golden- (Yellow-) collared Macaw Primolius auricollis ✓ 99 Straight-billed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus picus ✓ ✓ ✓ 100 Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris ✓ 101 Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 102 Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 103 Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 104 Grey-crested Cachalote Pseudoseisura unirufa ✓ 105 Great Antshrike Taraba major ✓ 106 Mato Grosso Antbird Cercomacra melanaria ✓ 107 Campo Suiriri Suiriri affinis ✓ 108 Forest Elaenia Myiopagis gaimardii ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 109 Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus ✓ ✓ ✓ 110 Black-backed Water Tyrant Fluvicola albiventer ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 111 Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 112 Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis ✓ 113 Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 114 Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 115 Lesser Kiskadee Pitangus lictor ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 116 Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 117 Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 118 Swainson's Flycatcher Myiarchus swainsoni ✓ 119 Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 120 Sand Martin (Bank Swallow) Riparia riparia ✓ ✓ ✓ 121 White-winged Swallow Pachyramphus polychopterus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 122 White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa ✓ 123 Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea ✓ ✓ 124 Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 125 Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius atricapillus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 126 Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 127 Masked Gnatcatcher Polioptila dumicola ✓ ✓ 128 Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus ✓

Brazil - Just Jaguars! Tour Report

September Common name Scientific name 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 129 Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 130 Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis ✓ 131 Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus ✓ 132 Solitary Cacique Cacicus solitarius ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 133 Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 134 Orange-backed Troupial Icterus croconotus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 135 Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis ✓ 136 Giant Cowbird Scaphidura oryzivora ✓ ✓ ✓ 137 Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis ✓ ✓ ✓ 138 Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 139 Chopi Blackbird Gnorimopsar chopi ✓ 140 Greyish Baywing (Bay-winged Cowb.) Agelaioides (Molothrus) badius ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 141 Unicolored Blackbird Agelaius cyanopus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 142 Chestnut-capped Blackbird Chrysomus ruficapillus ✓ 143 Red (Hepatic) Tanager Piranga flava ✓ 144 Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata ✓ ✓ 145 Yellow-billed Cardinal Paroaria capitata ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 146 Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 147 Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca ✓ ✓ 148 Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum ✓ ✓ ✓ 149 Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens ✓ ✓ ✓ 150 Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 151 Rusty-collared Seedeater Sporophila collaris ✓

Reptiles & Amphibians

1 Yacare Caiman Caiman crocodilus jacare ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 2 Common (Green) Iguana Iguana iguana ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 3 Common Tegu lizard Tupinambis teguixin 2 1 ✓ 4 Lizard spp Teiidae spp. ✓ ✓ ✓ 5 Yellow Anaconda Eunectes notatus ✓ ✓ 6 Tree Frogs Hyla spp. ✓ ✓ 7 Black-tailed Gecko Chatogekko amazonicus ?? ✓

Jaguar Capped Heron