Luther College

Symphony Orchestra

Residency in Vienna

January Term 2011

GS 105

prepared by

Professors John F. and Virginia F. Strauss

Table of Contents

Course Title, Description, Requirements and URL Address

2011 LCSO January Residency in Vienna: Daily Program

Study Guide to The Viennese: Splendor, Twilight and Exile

Governance and Politics

Political Parties, Colors and Personalities

Packing Suggestions

A Few Hints About Etiquette

Transportation

Walking

Our Hotel and the Immediate Vicinity

Buying Tickets and Locating Concert Venues

Dining Out and Procuring Comestibles

Three Excellent and Inexpensive Restaurants

Restaurants in the First District

Typical Viennese Menu Items

Exploring Vienna

First District Churches You Should Visit

Other Things to Do

Shopping Tips

Banking Tips

Telephone and E-mail

Useful Phrases

Useful Websites

Course Title

GS 105 Luther College Symphony Orchestra Residency in Vienna, Austria: Performance and Musical Tradition in the Context of Austrian History

Course Description

An intensive three-week residency in Vienna, Austria, culminating in three public performances. Daily rehearsals, lectures and discussions, museum visits and performances focusing on Viennese history, culture and music traditions. Study topics include the clash between Christian Europe and Islam, the Austrian Baroque, fin de siècle Vienna, the Holocaust and contemporary Austrian politics. On-site visits focus on the study of representative works of music, art, and architecture emblematic of Austria history. This is a J- term II course, which also satisfies the general education category Human Expression.

Course Requirements

1. You are expected to participate fully in all scheduled rehearsals and concerts, tours, discussions, lectures and other group activities arranged by the faculty A loose-leaf notebook for written work is highly recommended. YOU MUST SATISFY PERFORMANCE EXPECTATIONS IN ORDER TO GET CREDIT FOR THE COURSE.

2. Before departure for Europe, read Paul Hofmann’s The Viennese: Splendor, Twilight and Exile. Bring the book with you! A study guide will be provided to help prepare for group discussions. Take notes and write down questions as you read. You should be able to respond to all of the questions on the study guide. YOU MUST PASS A WRITTEN FINAL EXAM IN ORDER TO GET CREDIT FOR THE COURSE.

URL Address

This Study Guide plus the Strauss Travel Guide for Vienna are available to students on the KATIE site. The address is: katie.luther.edu/moodle/

After you log in, open the folder labeled 2011JT, and click on the course 52809-GS-105-A.

2011

LUTHER COLLEGE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA

JANUARY RESIDENCY IN VIENNA

T3733

Program direction/academic content provided: by Daniel Baldwin, John & Virginia Strauss

Thursday LUTHER Departure. Meet at 8:00 in back of Jenson-Noble for bus departure at 8:30 to Chicago. Meet January 6 your Seminars International representative at 15:00 at the United Airlines check-in counter, Chicago O’Hare International Airport, Terminal 1 for departure (18:18) on United Airlines flight UA #906 to Munich, non-stop Boeing 777 service with meals served en route.

Friday SALZBURG Arrival. Arrive (09.50) at Munich Airport and transfer by private motorcoach to Salzburg to January 7 the PLAZA ZUM HIRSCHEN HOTEL for check-in. Brief map, menu and language orientation led by the faculty directors, followed by orientation dinner (19.00) at the Restaurant Stiftskeller St. Peter. (D)

Saturday SALZBURG. Breakfast and meeting in the Salzburger Saal until 10.30 followed by historical/cultural January 8 orientation walking tour of old Salzburg guided by faculty directors with stops at Mirabel Gardens, the Wolf Dietrich Mausoleum, Getreidegasse, the Dom, St. Peter Churchyard, Mozart's Birthplace (entrance included) and the Hohensalzburg Fortress (combi-ticket entrance) Wear good walking shoes/boots. Rest of day free. (B)

Sunday SALZBURG/VIENNA. Morning departure (09.00) by private motorcoach to Vienna (en route stop January 9 for guided tour and short film of Mauthausen (10.50; three groups of 30). Arrive Vienna (14.30) for a guided coach tour of the city and check-in at the HOTEL KUMMER. Orientation in the hotel restaurant including a trial walk to the Haus der Begegnung. (Bring your information booklet, city map and outdoor clothing) followed by group dinner (19.15)) at the hotel. Transportation passes provided for duration of Vienna stay. (B,D)

Monday VIENNA. Breakfast (06.30-10.30 daily) and announcements followed by departure for Haus der January 10 Begegnung, (available weekdays from 08.30 – 17.30). Self-serve buffet lunch at hotel. Evening (19.30) performance of Tosca at the Staatsoper. (B,L)

Tuesday VIENNA. Same morning program as Monday. Following lunch, Strings meet for a sectional rehearsal January 11 in the Grossesaal. Winds and Percussion meet with J. Strauss in the Klubsaal for a discussion of the introduction and first two chapters of Paul Hofmann's The Viennese. Please be prepared to answer the questions in the study guide and share your observations with the group. (B,L)

Wednesday VIENNA. Same morning program as Monday. Following lunch, Winds and Percussion meet for a January 12 sectional rehearsal, while Strings meet with J. Strauss in the Klubsaal (available until 15.00) for a discussion of the introduction and first two chapters of Paul Hofmann's The Viennese. Please be prepared to answer the questions in the study guide and share your observations with the group. (B,L)

Thursday VIENNA. Same morning program as Monday. Following lunch, the Strings meet for a sectional January 13 rehearsal while the Winds and Brass take a guided tour of the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Evening (19.30) performance of the Freiburger Barockorchester at the Musikverien. (B,L)

Friday VIENNA. Same morning program as Monday. Following lunch, the Winds and Brass meet for a January 14 sectional rehearsal while the Strings take a guided tour of the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Evening (19.30) performance of the Vienna Symphony at the Konzerthaus. (B,L)

Saturday VIENNA. Free time for independent exploration. Consult your travel packet and see John or Virginia January 15 Strauss if you have questions. Evening (19.00) performance of Carmen at the Volksoper. (46 tickets). (B)

Sunday VIENNA. Optional morning church service at the Augustinerkirche or Stefansdom. Mid-afternoon visit January 16 to Wien Oberlaa (a modern indoor/outdoor thermal spa with swimming pools, whirl pools, etc.). Group dinner at a Heurige in Oberlaa. (B,D)

Monday VIENNA. Same morning program as previous Monday. Following lunch, Strings meet for a sectional January 17 while Winds and Brass meet with J. Strauss to discuss the rest of Paul Hofmann's The Viennese. Please be prepared to answer the questions in the study guide. (B,L)

Tuesday VIENNA. Same morning program as previous Monday. Following lunch, Winds and Brass meet for January 18 a sectional while Strings meet with J. Strauss to discuss the rest of Paul Hofmann's The Viennese. Please be prepared to answer the questions in the study guide. (B,L)

Wednesday VIENNA. Morning rehearsal at Haus der Begegnung, followed by self-serve buffet lunch at the hotel. January 19 Afternoon guided visit to Belvedere Palace (Group B/Winds); lecture/sectional rehearsals for Group A/ Strings as arranged by faculty directors. (B,L)

Thursday VIENNA. Same morning program. Following lunch, Winds and Brass (Group B) meet for a sectional January 20 rehearsal while Strings (Group A) take a guided tour of the Belvedere Palace. (B,L)

Friday VIENNA. Morning rehearsal at Haus der Begegnung followed by self-serve buffet lunch at the hotel. January 21 Return for a 90 minute rehearsal and an afternoon dance lesson. Vans to collect instruments from Haus der Begegnung and deliver to Hotel Kummer for storage. Evening attendance at the Officer’s Ball at the Wiener Hofburg (doors open at 20.00, 4 tables reserved). (B,L)

Saturday VIENNA. Free time for independent exploration of the city. J. Strauss will lead two tours of the City of January 22 Vienna Museum: strings at 10.00 and winds/brass at 13.00. (B)

Sunday VIENNA. Morning (09.00-13.00) review session at the Fleming Hotel. Optional hike through the Vienna January 23 Woods lead by John and Virginia Strauss: from Kahlenberg to Pfarrplatz in Heiligenstadt. Afternoon (16.30) performance of La Cenerentola at the Volksoper. (46 tickets) (B)

Monday VIENNA (OBERSCHUTZEN). Free morning. Two motorcoaches (one with trailer), guide, arrive at January 24 Hotel Kummer for drive to Oberschutzen (about 90 min. drive) for rehearsal. Early dinner at a local restaurant. Evening (19.00) performance at the Kulturzentrum Oberschutzen. (B,D) (Students should be prepared to load/unload instrument vans)

Tuesday VIENNA. Following breakfast, final exam on Paul Hofmann’s The Viennese. Free afternoon for January 25 independent exploration. (B)

Wednesday VIENNA (STOCKERAU). Free morning. Two motorcoaches (one with trailer) and guide arrive (12.00) January 26 at Hotel Kummer for 40 minute drive to Stockerau for rehearsal. Early dinner at local restaurant, followed by evening (19.00) performance at the Concert Hall. (B,D)

Thursday VIENNA. Instrument vans arrive at hotel to transport instruments and crates from hotel to the January 27 Konzerthaus for morning three-hour rehearsal. Afternoon free. Motorcoach transfer to the Konzerthaus for evening performance (19.00) (recorded for personal use), followed by transfer to StadtParkBräu for late (22.15) dinner. (B,D)

Friday VIENNA/MUNICH. Morning (09.00) departure by private motorcoach for Munich, with check-in upon January 28 arrival at the HOTEL ATRIUM. (B)

Saturday MUNICH. Morning guided tour of the city including the Alte and Neue Pinakotek. Afternoon at leisure. January 29 Farewell (19.00) dinner at Restaurant Augustiner Gaststaette. (B,D)

Sunday MUNICH/CHICAGO. Morning (08.30) transfer by private motorcoach to Munich Airport for departure January 30 (12.15) on United Airlines flight UA #907 for Chicago, non-stop Boeing 777 service with meals served en route. Arrive (3:13 p.m.) at Chicago O’Hare International Airport, Terminal 5 for customs clearance. Return bus service to Luther College. (B)

Itinerary subject to change due to local scheduling.

FREQUENT FLYER INFORMATION

• Please visit www.united.com for more detailed and updated information regarding restrictions for carry-on items in your hand luggage. For additional security and screening procedures, please visit www.tsa.gov. • Participants are advised to carry overnight bags as a safeguard against any flight or baggage claim delays. • Participants are responsible for carrying their own luggage to and from the airport, motorcoach and hotel. • United Airlines has mileage agreements with Continental Airlines and US Airways. For additional information, refer to www.united.com. • Please present the appropriate mileage program identification upon check-in. • Retain all boarding passes and air ticket receipts until the mileage credit appears on your statement.

NOTES

• (B) = breakfast, (L) = lunch, (D) = dinner. Breakfast is provided daily. Meals not included on this itinerary are the responsibility of the participant. • All services listed in the itinerary are included in the course cost. • The 24-hour clock is used for travel outside of the United States. All times above 12.00 are in the afternoon or evening (simply subtract 12 hours from the time indicated, e.g., 12.00 is noon, 20.00 is 8:00 p.m.). • Passports must be valid for at least six months after return date.

LIST OF ACCOMMODATIONS

JANUARY 7-8 JANUARY 9-27 JANUARY 28-29 PLAZA ZUM HIRSCHEN HOTEL KUMMER HOTEL ATRIUM St. Julien Strasse 21-23 Mariahilfer Strasse 71A Landwehrstrasse 59 Salzburg 5020 Vienna 1061 Munich 80336 Austria Austria Germany Tel: 43 (662) 889 030 Tel: 43 (1) 588 950 Tel: 49 (89) 514 190 Fax: 43 (662) 889 0358 Fax: 43 (1) 587 8133 Fax: 49 (89) 535 066

Note: For international calls placed from the U.S., 011 must precede the numbers above.

AN ELECTRONIC VERSION OF THIS ITINERARY, AS WELL AS LINKS TO OTHER TRAVEL RELATED INFORMATION CAN BE FOUND ON OUR WEBSITE: WWW.SEMINT.COM

Travel Arrangements by: SEMINARS INTERNATIONAL, INC., 33 West Monroe Street, Suite 1160, Chicago, IL 60603-5303 (800) 541-7506 • (312) 332-7027 • Fax (312) 332-5509 • [email protected] • www.semint.com

Study Guide

The Viennese: Splendor, Twilight and Exile. Paul Hofmann: Doubleday, 1988.

Introduction: "The Roots of Ambivalence."

1. What is Gemütlichkeit? Schmäh? 2. What is Paul Hofmann's thesis? How is the thesis reflected in the sub-title (Splendor, Twilight and Exile)? 3. How has Vienna's geographical location shaped its history and language? 4. What is the history and present day function of a Heurige? 5. Why are Viennese religious practices sometimes slightingly referred to as "Baroque Catholicism?" 6. What remnants of the imperial monarchy remain in Vienna today? 7. Who was Franz Josef and why do Viennese today still regard him so fondly? 8. Why are there coffee houses in Vienna and what role have they played in Viennese culture? 9. Terms you should know: Servus, Gastarbeiter (guest worker), schöne Leich (a beautiful corpse), Sachertorte, Vindobona, Wenia, Protektion. 10. “Absolutism, tempered by Schlamperei” (Viktor Adler). 11. “If crime were allowed in Vienna, it would be committed by officially authorized criminals only.” (Robert Musil) 12. “Everything that is not expressly permitted, is forbidden.” 13. The Edict of Toleration (Toleranzpatent): Josef II, 1781. 14. The Jewish State: Theodore Herzl, 1896. 15. The City Without Jews: Hugo Bettauer, 1922. 16. The Last Days of Mankind: Karl Kraus, 1922. 17. The Man without Qualities: Robert Musil. 18. The World of Yesterday: Stefan Zweig.

Chapter I: "The Golden Apple"

1. Why does every Viennese remember the date 1683? 2. Suleiman the Magnificent conquers Belgrade in 1521, and Budapest in 1526. 3. The Black Plague of 1679 and the Plague Column. 4. Count Starhemberg, King Sobieski and 25,000 Turkish tents before the gates of Vienna. 5. Turkish fashions, confections, architecture and Janissary music. 6. The dragoman Kolschnitzky and the anecdotal history of coffee houses in Vienna. 7. Who was Prince Eugene of Savoy? Fischer von Erlach? 8. Identify Schönbrunn, the Belvedere, and Karlskirche. 9. Who was Maria Theresa and why did she need the "Pragmatic Sanction?" 10. Why are the late 18th century Habsburg monarchs referred to by historians as "enlightened despots?" 11. Trace the musical lineage of Viennese Classicism from Christoph Willibald Gluck to Franz Schubert. 12. Who were the patrons of Haydn, Mozart and Beethoven, and why did the patronage system collapse? 13. What political events define the boundaries of the Biedermeier Era? Who were the chief political and intellectual players on the Biedermeier stage? 14. The Austrian Baroque as an expression of dynastic propoganda. 15. Josef II, “The Peoples’ Emperor.” 16. Metastasio and Lorenzo da Ponte. 17. The Congress of Vienna and Prince Klemens von Meternich.

Chapter II: "Revolution, Splendor, and Decadence"

1. Why do you think Carl Schorske refers to the Edict of 1857 and the Ringstrasse Project as "the triumph of the middle class?" 2. Examples of historicism in Ringstrasse architecture. 3. Who were the Secessionists and what were they seceding from? 4. “The Golden Cabbage”: “To every age its art; to art its freedom.” 5. Who were Karl Kraus, Robert Musil, Hugo von Hofmannsthal, Stefan Zweig, Franz Kafka, and Franz Werfel? 6. What do Gustav Klimt, Arnold Schönberg, and Sigmund Freud have in common? 7. Who was Theodor Herzl? 8. People you should know: Hans Makart, Eduard Hanslick, the Johann Strauss family, Franz Lehár, Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, Otto Wagner, Josef-Maria Ulbrich, Oskar Kokoschka and Alfred Loos. 9. Karl Kraus, Hermann Bahr, Arthur Schnitzler and the Café Griensteindl. 10. Hugo von Hofmannsthal and Richard Strauss 11. Gustav Mahler, the Staatsoper, and “Tradition is Schlamperei.” 12. The Second Viennese School 13. Identify: Karl Lueger, George von Schönerer and Aldolf Josef Lanz

Chapter III: "Reduction Shock and Red Vienna"

1. Explain the title of this chapter. 2. What historical parallels might be drawn with the collapse of the Dual Monarchy in 1918? 3. Identify The Man Without Qualities and the Last Days of Mankind. 4. Why does Paul Hofmann describe Vienna between the world wars as a "utopian experiment?" 5. Identify the main political parties, their colors and some of the personalities associated with them. 6. People you should know: Arnold Schönberg and the Second Viennese School, Erich Wolfgang Korngold (Die Tote Stadt), Ernst Krenek (Johnny Spielt Auf), Max Reinhardt, the Argonauts and Ludwig Wittgenstein. 7. Logical Positivism and the Vienna Circle.

Chapter IV: "The Demons"

1. What political and economic circumstances fueled antisemitism in Vienna? 2. Federal Chancellor Dolfuss and the “Bellyache Majority.” 3. What was the political significance of "Millimetternich's" assassination and the revolution of 1934. 4. Identify: Monsignor Seipel and Otto Bauer. 5. Sigmund Freud and his Doppelgänger Arthur Schnitzler. 6. The United Patriotic Front. 7. Identify: Kurt von Schuschnigg and Karl Renner.

Chapter V: "Up and Down Somebody Else's Stairs"

1. In 1934 there were approximately 200,000 Jews in Vienna; in 1945, 136 – 220. 2. The international response to the plight of the Jews. 3. Adolf Eichmann and the “Final Solution.” 4. [For students of German: Unbedenklichkeitserklärung, Reichfluchtsteur.] 5. What became of the typical graduating high school class of the late 1930’s? 6. How did the Viennese public contribute to "the final solution?" 7. Can you think of other examples of moral degradation and genocide in this century? In our times? 8. How did the expatriate Viennese adjust to their new lives? 9. Famous émigrés you should know: Bruno Walter, Billy Wilder, Otto Preminger, Erich Leinsdorf, Julius Rudel, Sir Rudolf Bing, Stefan Zweig, Archduke Otto von Hapsburg, Baron Louis Nathanial Rothschild, Rudolf Flesch (Why Johnny Can’t Read), Henry Grunwald (Editor of Time Magazine), Kurt Gödl, and the Amadeus Quartet.

Chapter VI: "Waldheim's Vienna"

1. The Moscow Declaration of 1943. 2. The Monument to the Unknown Rapist. 3. Four Men in a Jeep. 4. The Third Man. 5. Karl Renner and the Austrian State Treaty. 6. Speculate why Austria, alone among eastern European countries, did not become part of the Eastern Block. 7. How does Paul Hofmann characterize postwar Vienna? 8. Describe the special role that Austria has played, especially during the Kreisky Era, in resettling refugee populations. 9. What is "Waldheim's Disease" and why are Viennese so ambivalent about his "brown" past? 10. “Since 1945, the city has looked like a permanent folk festival.” 11. Why does Hofmann spend so much time on Kurt Waldheim?

Governance and Politics

The House of Babenberg (976-1246): Vindobona is renamed Wenia.

The House of Hapsburg (1276-1918):

Rudolf the Founder (1276-1290) Friedrich III (1452-1493) Maximillian I (1493-1519) Karl (Charles) V (1519-1556) Spain, the colonies, the Lowlands. Ferdinand I (1551-1564) German speaking regions, Bohemia, Hungary. Leopold I (1665-1705) Turkish Seige Joseph I (1705-1711) Karl (Charles) VI (1711-1740) Maria Theresa (1740-1780) Marries Franz Stefan of Lorraine. Joseph II (co-regent 1765-1780; emperor 1780-1790) Leopold II (1790-1792) Franz (Francis) II (1792-1835) Ferdinand I (1835-1848) Franz-Josef (Francis-Joseph) (1848-1916) Karl I (1916-1918) Empress Zita

The First Republic (1918-1934/1938)

The Second Republic (1945-)

Political Parties, Colors and Personalities

Reds: Social Democratic Party SPÖ (Socialistische Partei Österreichs) (Viktor Adler, Otto Bauer, Karl Renner, Bruno Kreiski, Alfred Gusenbauer)

Blacks: Christian Socialist Party before 1945 (Karl Luegger, Monsignor Seipel, Engelbert Dolfuss, Kurt von Schuschnigg) The Peoples’ Party ÖVP: (Österreichische Volkspartei) (Kurt Waldheim, Wolfgang Schüssel)

Blues: Pan Germanic (German National) Party before 1945 FPÖ: (Freiheitliche Partei Österreichs) (Jörg Haider)

Browns: Nazis (1933-1945)

Orange: BZÖ (Splits from FPÖ in 2005)

Greens: Environmentalists

Packing Suggestions

1) A travel wallet for your valuable papers: passport, visas, plane ticket, transportation pass and credit/bank cards etc. Reduce your valuable cards to the minimum you need for this trip. Your travel wallet should be kept on your person and out of sight, not in a “pick-able” place, such as a back pack or an open pocket or handbag.

2) Personal belongings: Remember that you will be responsible for carrying your own belongings to and from airports, buses, hotel rooms and concert sites. It is in your best interest to pack lightly. Save an equal space for what you are likely to bring home! Consult your travel roommate; identify anything you can share and split the difference. We suggest that you take about a week-and-a-half’s worth of repeatable clothing, which you can wash yourself in your hotel room. Self-service laundromats are almost non-existent in Vienna, and hotel laundry service is very expensive.

One carry-on bag (maximum 45 linear inches) and a modest size purse or laptop computer are the only items you are permitted to bring with you on the airplane. This rule is strictly enforced on international flights. Your carry-on should include any medication you need (in the original bottles and clearly labeled), cosmetics and toiletries in a one-quart size clear plastic ziplock bag (3 oz. or less of liquid or gels), your itinerary, a change of underwear, and anything else you might vitally need in the event your luggage is delayed for a day or two.

One check-through bag (maximum 50 lbs., maximum 62 linear inches). Pack your bag several days before departure, and take it for a “walk around the block”. Reconsider what you don’t need; make more room for things you will want to take home. One-half to two-thirds full is ideal.

3) Check list Outdoor winter walking shoes or boots Water/snow repellent winter coat or jacket Water/snow repellent hat Warm under layer: vest, sweater or sweatshirt Concert dress clothes and shoes, Ball dress clothes and shoes Swimsuit

Medications and over-the-counter remedies in original bottles and clearly labeled

A photocopy of the main page from your passport 2 extra passport size photos International Student I.D. card Paul Hofmann’s The Viennese and the Study Guide

A Few Hints about Etiquette

Austrians are more formal than Americans. Greetings are important. All public servants will say “hello” and “good bye” to you, and you are expected to respond in kind. The standard greeting is, Grüss Gott, although you may also hear Guten Tag (good day), Guten Morgen (good morning) or Guten Abend (good evening). Good bye is Auf Wiedersehen (or just Wiedersehen) or Auf Wiederschauen. In your Hotel If your hotel room has a key, rather than an electronic card, you are expected to turn it in at the desk when you leave your hotel. When you return, ask for the key by giving your room number. While you are away, your room will be cleaned, so be sure to secure your valuables out of sight.

Remember that you are living in a hotel, not a dormitory. You are expected to keep your door closed and the noise level low. Your maid will keep track of the hotel property in your room daily, and charge you if anything is missing. You will also be charged for any damaged property, even if the damage is accidental.

At a Concert Hall When you attend concerts you will have to check your winter coats and hats and pay a charge for each item. You can save a charge if you stuff your hat and scarf in the sleeve of your coat. You also must pay for the Programm, which normally costs from two to three dollars and makes a wonderful souvenir.

Public Restrooms If you need to use a public rest room, you probably will have to pay for the privilege.

Transportation

Your monthly transportation pass (Monatskarte) is good for the subway (U-Bahn), the tram system (Strassenbahn) and all buses throughout the city of Vienna. U-Bahn stations are marked with lighted signs bearing a white “U” on a blue background. The signs are mounted high and are often visible a block away. Bus and tram stops are marked with red-rimmed oval signs (Haltestelle) with black writing on a white background. These non-lighted signs are mounted lower and can be hard to spot.

There are five color-coded subways and numerous trams and buses designated by various numbers or letters. The Hotel Kummer is located on the orange U-Bahn line (U3). Most buses are designated with a number and a small “A,” and cut cross-town. The 13A, which stretches from the Südbahnhof to Alserstrasse, stops on the corner of our hotel. A complete transportation map is available for a small charge, underground in the Stephansplatz station.

The Vienna transportation system is comprehensive and easy to use. To make sure that you are going in the right direction, you need to know the two end stations of the line on which you are traveling and your current location. In addition, every Haltestelle has a list of stations on the line and a printed time schedule. Stations are also listed in each train car, tram or bus. Generally speaking, public transportation runs from 6:00 am until midnight.

Always keep your transportation pass with you! You may be stopped by plain clothed officials and asked to show your pass (Fahrschein, bitte!). “Black Riders” (Schwarzfahrer) are assessed steep fines.

Walking

Walking is safe, even at night, and a wonderful way to see the city. The only places where you should be defensive are the large train stations (Südbahnhof, Westbahnhof), the Prater area and underground passages, especially the one between the Opera and Karlsplatz. It is especially fun to explore the length of Mariahilfestrasse and to cross the Ring into the First District (the area bounded by the Ring and the Danube Canal). You are unlikely to get lost. Nonetheless, we recommend that you take your map with you at all times and walk with a companion.

Our Hotel and the Immediate Vicinity

The Hotel Kummer, as their brochure suggests, “is a stylish four star hotel located in the center of Mariahilfer Strasse, Vienna’s most important shopping street [a slight exaggeration], a few minutes away from the Ringstrasse.” The Ringstrasse, or Ring as it is usually called, surrounds the First District, the medieval city of Vienna. Mariahilferstrasse is one of the spokes radiating from the Ring and leading to the Gürtel, literally “the belt.”

The Hotel Kummer is at the crossing of the U3 (Orange) subway line, which connects Simmering with Ottakring, and the cross-town 13A bus line that connects the Sűdbahnhof (the Southern Rail Station) with Skodagasse. These two lines will be very useful to you, although you can easily walk anywhere in the Sixth, Seventh, Eighth or First Districts from the Hotel Kummer.

For example, if you take the U3 one stop in the direction of Simmering, you will reach Dr. Karl Renner Ring, and three stops will get you to Stephansplatz, at the heart of the First District. If you take the U3 two stops in the direction of Ottakring you will reach the Westbahnhof (the West Rail Station). When returning on the U3, get out at the station called Neubaugasse and follow signs to Amerlingstrasse. (Our hotel is on the corner of Mariahilferstrasse and Amerlingstrasse.) When using the 13A bus line, get off at the stop called Neubaugasse/ U-bahn/Mariahilfestrasse (Be careful: there are three Neubaugasse stops!).

Mariahilfestrasse is a very crowded and busy shopping street, lined with elegant specialty stores, banks with outdoor ATMs, restaurants and numerous fast food shops. There are also street people and panhandlers in abundance, so keep your valuables out of sight. As you leave the hotel moving left up the street in the direction of Westbahnhof you will pass a Libro (discount book store), a Generali Center (shopping mall) and many other attractive hazards. Cross Esterházygasse (named after Haydn’s patron) and continue up Mariahilferstrasse until you reach Otto Bauergasse; turn left on Otto Bauer and go down hill two long blocks until you reach Königseggasse; turn right and you will find yourself in front of Das Haus der Begegnung where we rehearse and meet for discussions.

As you leave the hotel moving right down the street in the direction of the Ring, you will pass an Erste Bank with an ATM, and eventually the English Cinema Haydn and the so-called Haydn Kirche (1683) with an imposing statue of the composer in front. There is often a crafts and farmers’ market set up in front of the church. A little further and across the street is Merkur, your best bet for grocery shopping in the area. Merkur is in the basement of the Gerngross, the department store, and has an excellent bakery, delicatessen and produce department where you can try out a few words of German and expect fair prices. Don’t be intimidated, or surprised, if people push in front of you! This is normal behavior and not considered particularly rude.

Buying Tickets and Locating Concert Venues

First, look in Wien-Program or online for daily listings of concerts. (Note that operas and plays are listed in the Theater section of the program.) Better concerts will take place at the Musikverein (MV) and its smaller companion hall, the Brahms Salle (MV/BS); or at the Konzerthaus (KH) and its two smaller companion halls the Mozart Salle (KH/MS) and the Schubert Salle (KH/Schs). Tickets are available on site at the Tageskasse (ticket office – open during business hours) and sometimes at the door by patrons unable to use their own tickets. The Konzerthaus offers a Preisermässigung (discount) for students 20 years old and younger, so bring your International student I.D. Card. Standing room tickets (Stehplätze) are available at larger venues, including both opera houses, and the Konzerthaus sometimes offers Springerkarten, half price tickets, which admit you at the last moment and allow you to take any available seat in the house.

Tickets for the Staatsoper (State Opera) and the Volksoper (Peoples’ Opera) can be purchased in advance at the Bundes Theater Kassen, Operagasse 2 at the back of the Staatsoper near the Albertina. For standing room tickets at the two operas, show up at the opera house 45 minutes to an hour early. Be sure to bring your scarf to the performance, so that you can claim a spot at the guardrail.

To get to the Musikverein, take the U3 to Dr. Karl Renner Ring; transfer to the #2 or D tram (south) and get off at the Oper stop. Walk one block away from the Ring on Kärtnerstrasse (west), and then turn left on Bösendorferstrasse. Walk 2 short blocks past the Kűnstlerhaus until you see the Musikverein.

To get to the Konzerthaus, take the U3 to Dr. Karl Renner Ring; transfer to the #2 tram and get off one stop past the Oper at Schwarzenbergplatz. Walk one street away from the Ring and you will see the Konzerthaus in front of you.

To get to the Staatsoper, take the U3 to Dr. Karl Renner Ring and transfer to the #2 or tram, getting off at Oper. Use the underground passage to cross the Ring.

To get to the Volksoper, take the U3 to Westbahnhof and transfer to the U6 (direction Floridsdorf), getting out at Währingerstrasse/Volksoper.

Dining Out and Procuring Comestibles

Grocery Stores

If you are like us, you will probably wish to economize and buy sandwich materials at local groceries. Bread is generally inexpensive and excellent; bakeries abound. Cold cuts are sold by the 100 grams, or in Austrian dialect Zehn Deka (10 dekagrams). Thus, you can order Zehn Deka Salami or Zehn Deka Schinken (ham) at the deli counter, enough for two sandwiches.

Generally speaking, you weigh fruit and vegetables yourself by putting items on a scale and punching in a picture code or number. At the checkout counter you have to ask for and pay for a bag (Ein Sack, bitte!), unless you bring your own. You are expected to bag your own groceries and move quickly out of the way. Patrons may be rude, shove or cut in line, so seize the initiative!

Restaurants and Restaurant Etiquette

First, there are a few things you should know about restaurants in general. Most restaurants post menus either outside, or in a window, so that you can read prices. There is usually a daily special called the Menü. (What we know as a menu is called a Speisekarte in German.) Many restaurants have lunch specials (Mittagsmenü), which are quite inexpensive. Most restaurants expect you to wait to be seated and you may be seated with strangers. You are usually charged for each roll or slice of bread that you eat. Although the tip is included in the price, you are expected to round up to the next half Euro or Euro. Hand the waiter the tip, or ask to include the tip on your credit card, but never leave money on the table. Smoking is permitted almost everywhere in Austria, including restaurants. Smoking areas are sometimes marked Raucher and the rare, non-smoking areas are designated Nicht Raucher. Finally, don’t be surprised if you see a dog under your neighbor’s table, even in an elegant restaurant.

Three Excellent and Inexpensive Restaurants, Twenty to Thirty Minutes Distance From the Kummer

Universitätsbräu (Unibräu): A University Pub located on the University of Vienna campus, featuring highest quality Austrian cuisine at rock bottom prices, excellent beer and good fellowship. This place is not to be missed! To get to the Unibräu, take the 13A bus to the last stop, Skodagasse. Get out near the shoe displays and walk down-hill on Alserstrasse in the direction of the Ring. At the intersection of Alserstrasse and Langegasse, kitty-cornered across the street you will see a huge two story yellow structure which encompasses a square block. Make your way into the inner courtyard of the structure through one of the entrances labeled “Universitäts Campus.” In the far corner vis-à-vis a Billa grocery store, you will find the Unibräu. If it happens to be full, try Zum Gangl, also in the campus courtyard. If you are lucky, there may still be a Christkindlmarkt in the courtyard, where you can buy Christmas and New Year’s ornaments, crafts of various kinds, and where you may also drink a glass of steaming hot punch.

The Bombay: An Indian restaurant offering huge portions at bargain prices about a 15 minute walk on the left of Neubaugasse, straight across from the hotel entrance.

Hanil: An excellent and low-priced sushi bar and Japanese restaurant is located on the Rechte Wienzeile on the edge of the Naschmarkt. First of all, don’t miss the Naschmarkt, Vienna’s most famous open-air farmer’s market. Take either the 13A (direction Sűdbahnhof) or the 14A (direction Reumannplatz) to Pilgramgasse and transfer to the U4 (direction Heiligenstadt), getting off one stop later at Kettenbrűckengasse. Walk down the Rechte Wienzeile in the direction of Karlsplatz until you find Hanil on the right. You can also walk to the Naschmarkt from our hotel in about 15 mintues.

Restaurants in the First District

Although almost everything is more expensive in the First District, you may wish to treat yourself once, or take advantage of one of the many fast food opportunities. The main street of the First District is Kärntnerstrasse, which stretches from the State Opera on the Ring, to Stephansplatz. Be sure to walk down the Kärntnerstrasse!

Rotenturmstrasse (a continuation of Kärntnerstrasse past Stephansplatz) has several excellent fast food restaurants including Anker, (sandwiches), Durcin (sandwiches), Nordsee (primarily fish) and Pizza Bizi (a self-serve Italian cafeteria of surprisingly good quality.) There are also Nordsee restaurants on Kärtnerstrasse and on the Kohlmarkt, and hot dog stands are ubiquitous. We particularly recommend the hot dog stand (Würstlstand) on Hohermarkt. There are also many fast food possibilities in the underground Opernpassage between the Opera and Karlsplatz.

If you would like to sit down, but not pay too much, we recommend Piza Bizi (Rotenturmstrasse), Rosenberger (Maysedergasse, near the opera), Nasch Markt (Freyung/Schottengasse 1), Ristorante Venezia (Kärntnerstrasse), the Wienerwald (Johannesgasse) or the Mandarin (Singerstrasse past the Billa on the other side). The last two are restaurants, rather than cafeterias.

If you wish to treat yourself to an excellent Viennese restaurant, we can recommend Figlmüller (Wollzeile 5), Zu den Drei hacken (Singerstrasse 28), and the Stadtbeisl (Naglergasse 21). Vegetarians might like to try Wrenkh (Bauernmarkt 10), although it is rather expensive.

Coffee houses, beer cellars and Heurigen are all well established Viennese traditions. We recommend the Café Centrale on Herrengasse, the Zwölfapostlkeller (Sonnenfelsgasse) and Mayr am Pfarplatz in Heiligenstadt (ask us for directions). Remember that beer and new wine (offene Weiswein) often have a higher alcohol content than we are used to. Most Viennese mix their wine with soda water half and half (Ein Weiswein gespritzt.) To avoid being cheated at the Zwölfapostlkeller keep careful track of your tab and go in small groups.

Typical Viennese Menu Items and Approximate Prices

Kleine Kaffehausgerichte (Small coffee-shop dishes)

Frankfurter mit Senf € 3 Hot dog with mustard Bratwurst mit Senf € 5 Broiled sausages with mustard Cevapcici garniert € 6 Spicy Yugoslavian sausages Kleines Gulasch € 4 Small goulash Portion Gulasch mit Salzkartoffeln € 7 Goulash with boiled potatoes Käsetoast € 3 Grilled cheese sandwich

Suppen (Soup)

Frittatensuppe € 3 Crepe soup Gulaschsuppe € 4 Goulash soup Leberknödelsuppe € 3 Clear consommé with liver dumplings Französische Zwiebelsuppe € 4 French onion soup

Vorpeisen (Hors d’oeuvres)

Gebackene Champignons mit Sauce Tartare € 7 Breaded mushrooms with tartar sauce Emmentaler gebacken mit Sauce Tartare € 7 Breaded Emmentaler cheese with tartar sauce

Spezialitäten (Specialites)

Wiener Schnitzel (Kalb) € 13 Breaded veal cutlet with French fries and salad mit Pommes frites, Salat Schnitzel (Schwein) € 10 Breaded pork cutlet with French fries and salad mit Pommes frites und Salat Pariser Schnitzel vom Kalb € 13 Egg coated veal cutlet with rice and salad mit Reis und Salat Pariser Schnitzel vom Schwein € 10 Egg coated pork cutlet with rice and salad mit Reis und Salat Naturschnitzel (vom Kalb) € 13 Plain veal cutlet with rice and salad mit Reis und Salat Cordon-bleu (Kalb) € 13 Veal cordon bleu Cordon-bleu (Schwein) € 10 Pork cordon bleu Zwiebelrostbraten € 13 Fried pork with onions, roasted potatoes and salad mit Bratkartoffeln und Salat Gemüseteller mit Spiegelei € 7 Mixed vegetable plate with fried egg and boiled und Salzkartoffeln potatoes

Vom Grill (Grill Dishes)

Beefsteak mit Spiegelei € 17 Beef Steak with fried egg and French fried potatoes und Pommes frites Speiβ garniert € 13 Beef, pork and bacon shish kabob with peppers, onions and French fries

Beilagen (Side Orders)

Pommes frites € 3 French fries Tagesgemüse € 3 Vegetable of the day Salz- oder Bratkartoffeln € 3 Salted potatoes or fried potatoes Reis € 3 Rice

Nachtisch (Desserts)

Germknödel € 4 A large, sweet dumpling Palatschinken € 4 Jam-filled crepes Sachertorte € 3 Viennese chocolate layer cake

Other Fine Desserts

Apfelstrudel Apple strudel Mohr im Hemd A rich chocolate pudding cake served with hot chocolate sauce. Topfenknödel Sweet cheese dumplings coated with strudel topping. Linzertorte Cake made of crushed nuts, filled with raspberry, apricot or red currant jam. Mohnstrudel Similar to apple strudel but made with crushed poppy seeds. Guglhupf Pound cake

Getränke (Beverages)

Beverages are listed at the end of the Speisekarte, but are normally ordered first, separately from the rest of the meal. Your server will ask, “Zum trinken, Bitte?” In Austria refills are charged again full price.

Wasser (Water) If you ask for water in a Viennese restaurant, your server will assume you mean bottled mineral water, either with carbonation (mit Kohlensäure) or without (Still or ohne Kohlensäure), both which come at a price comparable to soft drinks. However, you can politely request Leitungswasser (tap water), which is free, but do not expect it to be served with ice cubes.

Kaffee (Coffee) Coffee is one of the beverages for which Vienna is most famous. It is a specialty drink, not an endless cup or pot on the table. If you enjoy coffee, find a website about the many various ways it is prepared and the tradition that goes with it.

Tee (Tea) Hot tea is available at most restaurants and sometimes comes with a free hot water refill.

Bier (Beer) Austrian beer is strong and excellent in quality. It can be purchased on tap (Ein bier vom Fass) or in bottles (Eine Flasche Bier) and comes in two sizes (Ein kleines Bier: .3 liter, or Ein grosses Bier: .5 liter). Some famous Austrian beer brands include Sternbräu, Gösser, Ottakring, Schwechater, Kaiser, Schlägel and Goldfassel. Never try to order beer at a wine Heurigen, or you will be considered a hapless rube.

Wein (Wine) Grapes have been grown in the hills of Vienna since Roman times. The most common white wine in Vienna is Grüner Veltliner, a rather sour wine to most American tastes. Grüner Veltline is best when it is a new, un- bottled wine (Offene Weiswein) and is readily available in Heurigen and some restaurants. Other standard Austrian white wines are Riesling, Weisburgunder and Neuburger. Generally speaking, whites are better than reds, although you may wish to try a Blaufränkish or a Blauportugueser. Another recently developed and excellent red wine is called Zweigelt. Wine is served by the Achtel (1/8 liter), the Viertel (1/4 liter), or the liter (ein Liter) for larger groups. A Viertel costs approximately € 3, although prices for wine are rising rapidly.

Saft (Fruit Juice), Soft drinks and Soda water

Soft drinks like Coca Cola, Fanta, Almdudler (similar to ginger ale), Apfelsaft or Obi (apple juice) and Orangensaft (orange drinks) are generally served in .25 liter or .3 liter glasses and cost approximately € 2. Soda water may be added (about 50%) to fruit juice to give it fizz; ask for an Obi gespritzt.

Milk

Milk is not considered an acceptable drink for adults. You will not find it in restaurants, not even at McDonalds. If you are a serious milk drinker, you may wish to buy it in small cartons from the grocery store.

Exploring Vienna

As you can see from the daily calendar, you will have some free time at your disposal. We encourage you, whenever possible, to plan your free time with at least one other person. You must register any out-of–town plans with John or Virginia Strauss.

Museums You May Wish to Visit

Oberes Belvedere (The Upper Belvedere Palace): Prinz-Eugenstrasse 27 (D tram or 13A bus) Open daily, 9 am - 5 pm, closed Monday. [Nineteenth and Twentieth Century Austrian Paintings, including Klimt, Schiele and Kokoschka.]

Sigmund-Freund-Museum: Berggasse 19 (40A bus from Schottentur). Open daily, 9 am - 5 pm.

Haus des Meeres (Aquarium): Esterhazypark, a short walk from our hotel. Open daily 9 am - 6 pm.

Haus der Musik (House of Music): Seilerstätte 30. Open daily 10 am – 10 pm.

Historisches Museum der Stadt Wien (Historical Museum of the City of Vienna): Karlsplatz, next to the Karlskirche. Open daily, 9 am - 6 pm, except Monday

Kaiserappartements (The Emperor Franz Joseph’s Apartments): Entrance in the Neue Hofburg cupola, just off Michaelerplatz. Open daily 9 am – 4:30 pm.

Künstlerhaus (Artist’s House): Karlsplatz 5, next to the Musik Verein. Open daily 10 am - 6 pm, Thursday 10 am - 9 pm. [Floating exhibitions, usually historical in nature, done in the grand manner.]

Kunstforum (Art Forum): Freyung 8 (in the First District) Open daily10 am - 6 pm, Saturday 10 am – 9 pm. [Floating exhibitions of Twentieth Century paintings.]

Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts): Maria-Theresien-Platz across the Ring from the Neue Hofburg. (A fifteen-minute walk from the hotel.) Open daily 10 am - 6 pm, except Thursday 10 am - 9 pm, closed Monday. [A comprehensive art gallery through the Eighteenth Century. Famous Breugel and Rubens galleries.]

Leopold Museum in the Museumsquartier: Museumsplatz 1, one street behind the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Open daily, Wednesday – Monday 11 am – 7 pm, Friday 11 am- 9 pm. [Twentieth century paintings with an emphasis on Austrian artists like Klimt and Schiele.]

Beethoven Museum: Heiligenstädter-Testament-Haus (House of the Heiligenstadt Testament): Probusgasse 6. (U4 to Heiligenstadt, then 38A bus to Armbrustergasse and walk.) Open daily 9 am- 12:30 pm and 1 pm - 4:30 pm, closed Monday.

Haydn Museum with Brahms Memorial Room: Haydngasse 19. (A short walk from the Haus der Begegnung.) Open daily 9 am – 12:15 pm, 1 – 4:30 pm, closed Monday.

Naturhistorisches Museum (Natural Science Museum): Maria-Theresien-Platz, across from the Fine Arts Museum. (A fifteen-minute walk from the hotel.) Open daily 9 am – 9 pm, Wednesday 9 am – 9 pm, closed

Tuesday.

Schönbrunn Palace (Summer palace of the Hapsburg’s): Schönbrunner Schlossstrasse. (U4 to Schönbrunn) Open daily 8:30 am – 4:30 pm. [Guided tours of the imperial apartments.]

Tiergarten (Zoo): On the grounds of the Schönbrunn Palace. (U4 to Hietzing) Open daily 9 am – 4:30 pm.

Technisches Museum (Museum of Technology): Mariahilferstrasse 212. (U3 to Westbahnhof, then 52 or 58 tram to Winckelmannstrasse) Open Monday-Wednesday, Friday, Saturday 9 am – 6 pm, Thursday 9 am – 8 pm, Sunday and public holidays 10 am – 6 pm.

First District Churches You Should Visit

Stephansdom (Stephansplatz) Michaelerkirche (Michaelerplatz) Karlskirche (Karlsplatz) Augustinerkirche (Josefsplatz) Franziskanerkirche (Franziskanerplatz) Jesuitenkirche (Dr. Ignaz Seipelplatz)

Other Things to Do

If you are interested in swimming in a modern, indoor/outdoor spa, we recommend Wien Oberlaa. (U1 to Reumannplatz, then the 67 tram to its end station.)

If you would like to walk in the famous Wienerwald (Vienna Woods), we recommend a trip to either the Cobenzl or Kahlenberg. Both are accessible from the 38A bus (pick up from the U4 Heiligenstadt Station). The 38A also takes you through Heiligenstadt and Grinzing, the most famous Heurigen districts of Vienna.

If you want to visit the graves of the famous composers buried in Vienna (among them Beethoven, Brahms, Schubert, Johann Strauss, and Arnold Schoenberg), the Zentralfriedhof (Central Cemetery) is located on the 71 tram line.

You may also like to walk through the Stadtpark on the Ring, to feed pigeons and to commune with the statues of famous artists and musicians like Johann Strauss.

Shopping Tips

Generally speaking, things are more expensive in the First District. There are, however, shopping opportunities that can be found nowhere else. For example, Doblinger on Dorotheergasse just off the Graben, is the leading publisher and seller of music (both new and used), recordings and music books in the city.

Two other shopping streets are Mariahilfestrasse and Favoritenstrasse (U1, Reumannplatz or Keplerplatz). Less tourist oriented, typical Viennese shopping streets are Josefstädterstrasse (#2 tram), Neubaugasse (the 13A bus) and Lerchenfelderstrasse (the 46 tram). These last three streets are also accessible on foot from the hotel.

Banking Tips

Whenever possible, use the ATM’s (Bankomat) which are found all over the city to withdraw Euros. There are several on Mariahilfestrasse close to our hotel. Most ATM’s accept both debit and credit cards. Do not plan to use travelers’ checks, because most banks charge a very high commission for processing them. Most banks are open 8:00 am to 12:30 pm and 1:30 to 3:00 pm. In an emergency hotel clerks are always willing to exchange currency, but the rate (no matter what they say) is never better than that at a bank or ATM.

MasterCard and Visa are generally accepted in Vienna, but be aware that many credit card companies charge a substantial fee for foreign transactions. Ask your U.S. credit card bank for its rates before you use it abroad. There are still some businesses in Vienna that accept cash only and do not take credit cards.

Telephone, Internet and E-mail

Making international long distance phone calls from European hotels is surprisingly expensive. Before you dial, inquire about the connection charge and the long distance rate. It is less expensive to phone from America to Europe than vice versa. Consider buying a pre-paid phone card.

If you want to use your cell phone (called a Handi in Austria), check with your local provider for instructions before you leave the USA.

Skype (via the internet) is probably the cheapest way to make phone contact internationally. Internet cafes are increasingly popular in Vienna; costs are reasonable. The Hotel Kummer advertises a wireless internet connection, but in 2007, it was only about 10% functional. We hope they’ve upgraded their service for 2011. In some rooms an Ethernet cable is useful. There is one public internet-connected computer in the hotel lobby.

Useful German Phrases

You will appreciate your experience in Austria more if you become comfortable using a few words in German. Minimum essentials (Memorize these!) for polite, informed international travelers are:

Yes Ja yah No Nein nine Please Bitte BIH-tuh Thanks (very much) Danke (sehr) DAHN-kuh (zair) You are welcome Bitte BIH-tuh

Hello Grűss Gott Grews Gott Good day Guten Tag GOOT-en Tahk Good morning Guten Morgen GOOT-en MOR-gen Good evening Guten Abend GOOT-en AH-bent Good-bye Auf Wiedersehen owf VEE-dair-zayn Excuse me Entschuldigen Sie Ehnt-SHOOL-dih-gun zee

There are many good websites with both written and aural lessons for useful German phrases for travelers. For starters try www.ielanguages.com/German1.html or www.europa-pages.com/lessons/ german-basics.html.

If you are adventurous, learn also how to count to 100, how to tell time, the days of the week, the months of the year, and your personal selection of social phrases. If you are more advanced, develop your verbs, and learn the specialized vocabulary for your instrument. If you are very advanced, try reading the local papers and listening to the local television stations.

Useful Websites

For comprehensive information about the city and its current events, try http://www.vienna.at/ . Check out the city webcams and the Wiener Konzerthaus schedule for January 2011.