©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 92

Karlsplatz & Around Naschmarkt

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 (p94) Rid- Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze at 4 Akademie der Bil- ing the lift (elevator) up to the 1897-designed exhibition denden Künste (p96) View- this mesmerising church’s centre of the Seces- ing Bosch’s impressive and elliptical copper dome for a sion movement artists. gruesome Triptych close-up view of the incred- 3 Naschmarkt (p96) of the Last Judgment ible frescoes by Johann Breathing in the heady aro- altarpiece. Michael Rottmayr. mas of spices, olives, oils and 5 Staatsoper (p95) 2 Secession (p97) Con- vinegars, cheeses, hams, sau- Reliving operatic highs with templating the sensuous sages and much more while a guided tour of this re- shapes, gold mosaics and snacking your way from stall splendent gold-and-crystal- mythological symbolism of to delectable stall. adorned opera house. 00000000 00 0000000000 00 0(R00B 0000000 r 000 00 00000i 0u0000000 t 000 00000 00000n 0r00000 S 000 00000 M 00000g00g 0000 000 0 1 km u s ri r 00000 000000t 00n 000 000 e e# 0 0.5 miles s 00M0a0ri0a-0r00g 000 0000 e a Burg- n u0000000s 0000 0000 t 00Th0er0es0ien0- 0s0000 0000 m n e garten Burggasse 0s00Pl0at0z 000) 0000 r ) 00p 000000 000 ä g e 000000 O s l K n N a p i s 000000 er r

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s s o i L n s n ü s e r s t s nne e s e e t e t e G e i u S r e N n r b r r e s e e W n a u f ss e G t e ö l a f g g r i g e h r a s n r t r h ie c a s a s n o h s a i S M f a L e - i d c S r g n e l e s a l e t as p R a eg a r er M d um h lve W G r e Be 5 t m s t b Mollard asse en p e g Wi u r a e g R s - a Z H as G R m e r rg a e S p n e e s i e t n in s n p a a e p e r g d R s e tr r n t a i r S e g o s ne c e r s W un S h r ff e r t t g e nb r s a r hö d s g Sc o s a r e s f s e e r For more detail of this area see Map p248 A 93 Lonely Planet’s Explore Karlsplatz & Around Top Tip Naschmarkt It’s a pleasure simply to wander the backstreets Spreading south of the Opernring is Vienna’s cultured of the Freihausviertel, just 4th district, Wieden. Here days can be spent gazing upon south of Naschmarkt. One the baroque frescoes that dance across the Karlskirche, of the neighbourhood’s Otto Wagner’s buildings and Klimt’s sen- most elegant streets is sual friezes. Nights lift the curtain on high-calibre opera Mühlgasse, lined with late- and classical music in some of the world’s finest concert 19th-century houses with halls. Wander west and within minutes you swing from Juliet balconies and ornate gilded opulence to the multilingual buzz, street-food siz- doors in the Jugendstil zle and market-stall banter of the Naschmarkt. Amble (Art Nouveau) style. Num- south of here to the easygoing Freihausviertel and Vi- bers 26 and 28 are fine enna suddenly shrinks to village scale, with arty cafes, examples. ateliers and food shops run by folk with genuine passion. North of Wieden is 6th-district Mariahilf. Give the high-street throngs on Mariahilfer Strasse the slip and Karlsplatz & A round N you soon find yourself in quintessentially Viennese back- 5 Best Places streets, home to speciality shops and old-school Beisln to Eat (bistro pubs). On the cutting edge of the city’s nightlife ¨¨Naschmarkt (p96) and design scene is Gumpendorfer Strasse. ¨¨Said the Butcher to the Wedged between Wieden and Mariahilf in the 5th Cow (p98) district is Margareten, with few heavyweight sights but ¨¨Eis Greissler (p98) strong local flavour, particularly around the increasing- ¨¨Vollpension (p98) ly fashionable Margaretenplatz. ¨¨El Burro (p98) For reviews, see p98.A Local Life aschmar ¨Shopping Life Follow the hungry Viennese to Best Places the Naschmarkt (p96) for a world of street food, 6 and scout out delis, design stores and one-of-a-kind to Drink ¨¨Café Sperl (p101) k boutiques in the artsy Freihausviertel and around t

 (Margaretenplatz. ¨¨Rafael’s Vinothek (p99 ¨Cafe Life Great cafes here range from boho Café ¨¨Café Rüdigerhof (p101) Jelinek (p101) to starkly contemporary Café Drechsler ¨¨Juice Deli (p101) (p102). For reviews, see p101.A ¨Nightlife Hang out with a young and up-for-it crowd on Gumpendorfer Strasse, crammed with bars, cafes and lounge-style restaurants, or find a more laid-back Best Places scene around Schleifmühlgasse. 7 to Shop ¨¨Beer Lovers (p105) Getting There & Away ¨¨Gegenbauer (p99) ¨¨Flohmarkt (p99) ¨U-Bahn Karlsplatz is well connected to all corners of ¨¨Käseland (p99) Vienna, served by the U-Bahn lines U1, U2 and U4. The ¨¨Blühendes Konfekt U4 line to Kettenbrückengasse is handy for Naschmarkt (p105) and the Freihausviertel, while the U3 line (Zieglergasse, Neubaugasse etc) is useful for reaching Mariahilfer For reviews, see p103.A Strasse. Pilgramgasse (U4) is the most central stop for Margareten, and Taubstummengasse (U1) for Wieden. ¨Tram Key tram routes include Nos 1 and 62, which stop at Karlsplatz and pass through Wieden.