1 PSHAV- TRAVEL GUIDE

TBILISI 2015 The Pshav-Khevsureti Travel Guide is the result of a collaborative effort of the Agency of Pro- This guide describes the geography, histo- tected Areas of , Critical Ecosystem Partnership Fund (CEPF) and World Wide Fund ry and the ethnological and cultural her- for Nature (WWF) and has been prepared within the framework of the project “Enhancing FOREWORD itage of Pshav-Khevsureti. In addition to the Landscape and Ecological Integrity of the Corridor through Establish- a general survey of the region, the guide ment of Khevsureti National Park, Georgia” provides a wealth of suggestions and gen- Many points of interest await those who eral information for tourists, including WWF Caucasus wishes to thank Arabui Art House, Ecotourism Development Centre (ETDC), love the outdoors in Pshav-Khevsureti. information about travel routes, family Georgian Art and Culture Center (GACC) for assistance in the preparation of the Pshav-Khev- The region’s diverse ecosystem—subalpine sureti Travel Guide. hotels and guesthouses, as well as tourist forests, velvety meadows, rocky moun- organizations operating in the region. tains, river gorges, relict and endemic spe- EDITORS: cies—is but a part of the Pshav-Khevsureti Giorgi Tsintsadze, Project Coordinator region’s appeal. In order to conserve and We hope the guide will prove to be a re- Nugzar Zazanashvili, Conservation Director preserve the biodiversity and ancient liable companion during your travels to Tamaz Gamkrelidze, Communications Manager beauty of the area, the Pshav-Khevsureti Pshav-Khevsureti and will familiarize you (WWF) Caucasus Office Protected Area was established in 2013. with the region’s many offerings. Address: 11, M. Aleksidze St., 0193 Tel: +995 (32) 2237500 [email protected] panda.org/caucasus

Lela Khartishvili TTG Georgia Ltd. Address: 14, S. Chiaureli St., Tbilisi 0179 CONTENTS Tel: +995 599 992161 [email protected]

CONSULTANTS: Nino Arabuli, Shota Arabuli, Mamuka Arabuli LOCATION ------5 FOLK HOLIDAYS ------39 PROOF-READER: RELIEF ------6 CUISINE ------40 Jeffrey Marshal

DESIGN AND TYPESETTING: CLIMATE ------10 HOW TO GET TO THE REGION ------41 Gega Paksashvili HYDROGRAPHY ------11 MAPS: MONUMENTS OF CULTURE ------42 BIODIVERSITY ------13 David Svanadze PSHAVI TOURIST ROUTES ------44 PHOTOS: PSHAV-KHEVSURETI PROTECTED AREA ------18 Shota Arabuli, Nino Arabuli, Berdia Arabuli, Sanata Gigauri, Irakli Gvenetadze, KHEVSURETI ------46 Giorgi Edisherashvili, Paata Vardanashvili, Ani Imedashvili, Giorgi Tsintsadze, HISTORY OF PSHAV-KHEVSURETI ------22 POINTS OF INTEREST David Goguadze, Givi Tukhashvili, Levan Tsikarishvili, Keti Sidamonidze, Ana Kavtaradze, IN KHEVSURETI ------48 Arabuli Art House, Adventure Centre, Ensemble Gogochurebi, ETHNOLOGICAL HERITAGE Ecotourism Development Centre, Georgian Art and Culture Center. AND FARMING ------24 KHEVSURETI TOURIST ROUTES ------54 Biodiversity Conservation and Research Centre NACRES ETHNOGRAPHY AND CULTURAL USEFUL INFORMATION ------65 Old photos in the guide were obtained via the Internet. These photos may be HERITAGE ------26 stored in protected collections of different museums and archives. FAMILY HOTELS/GUESTHOUSES ------70 HOUSING ------28 Copyright © 2015 World Wide Fund Caucasus Office LOCAL CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS ------30 ISBN 978-9941-0-6742-6 Pshav-Khevsureti borders to the east; and (located LOCATION in the Russian Federation) to the north; and -Gudamakari to the west; and Mtiuleti to the south.

Pshav-Khevsureti is surrounded by moun- Pshav-Khevsureti is located in north- tain ranges to the east and the west. The eastern Georgia along the northern and Kidegani Range, Chaukhi Massif, Gudama- southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus kari and Alevi Ranges lie to the west. Mut- Range. Its area totals 1,600 sq. km, includ- so, the Atsunda Range, Mount Borbalo ing Pshavi – 560 sq. km, and Khevsureti – and the Range lie to the east. The 1050 sq. km. It is the only region located region is characterized by a medium and on both slopes of the Greater Caucasus. high mountain landscape, and it encom- Pirikita (Outer) Khevsureti, Arkhoti (the passes mountain forest, subalpine, alpine Asa River Valley), Guro- and - Ar sub-nival and nival zones. ghuni (the Arghuni River Valley) valleys are located along the northern slope. According to the administrative-territo- Piraketa (Inner) Khevsureti (the Aragvi rial division, Pshav-Khevsureti is within Valley of Khevsureti) is located along the Municipality in the Mtskhe- southern slope. Pshavi is located to the ta-Mtianeti region and includes the Bari- south of Piraketa Khevsureti, in the Pshavi sakho, Shatili, Magharoskari and Ukana- River Valley. pshavi Sakrebulos (municipal councils).

7 a building material in Khevsureti since ancient times. The so-called “wandering RELIEF blocks” from Chaukhi and Roshka (1950- 2000 m a.s.l.) are of glacial origin. They drifted away from the glaciers found in the Chaukhi Massif (3700-3800 m a.s.l.). Pshav-Khevsureti is characterized by its The traces of old glaciers can also be seen complex topography. A large part of the in an area adjoining Mount Borbalo. Small region’s territory is occupied by mountain amounts of marble (Karatis Tsveri), cop- and grassland landscapes, with the rest per, antimony, rock crystal (quartz), etc. being made up of mountain forest and can be found within Pshav-Khevsureti. glacial-nival type landscapes. Paleozoic plates and sandstones constitute many of The disconnected relief of river valleys the region’s high and inaccessible ranges. (Arghuni, Asa, Khevsuretis and Pshavis Pirikita Khevsureti has a higher location Aragvi and their tributaries) and the val- and is surrounded by glacial ranges. The ley-connecting ridges (2500-3000 m a.s.l) Liassic layers of slates and sands are also contribute to the landscape’s uniqueness. present in Khevsureti. This black slate of Of importance among the river valleys the Paleozoic Age is broken and cracked; is the main watershed (located in the it crumbles easily and has been used as Khevsureti Range), which is a part of the

8 Alps and passes: Kalotana Pass – 2,978 m; Arkhoti Pass – 3,172 m; Sabetsre – 2,798 m; Pkhitura Pass – 2,654 m; Mount Tanie – 3,499 m; Tsroli – 3,950 m; Ana- Pass – 2,768 m; Borbalo – 2,990 m; Karati – 2,912 m; Makhismaghali – 3,990; Datvisjvari Pass – 2,676 m; Chanchakhi Pass – 2,655 m; Mariatsminda – 3,140 m; Mount Archilo – 3,263 m; Andaki Pass – 2,887 m; Didi Borbalo – 3,294 m; Atsunti Pass – 3,431 m; Mount Tebulo – 4,493 m; Mutsostavi – 3,512 m; Mount Maisti – 4,081 m; Chaukhi Pass – 3,338 m; Juta Pass – 3,287m.

Hiking and horse trails run through the abovementioned passes, with the most popular trails being those of Arkhoti, De- Greater Caucasus watershed and includes ranges include: Gudamakari, Chimghis paratively even mountain crests and vel- visjvari, Andaki, Atsunta and Roshka. a bow-shaped section between Chaukhi Klde, Kavkasioni, , Chanchakhi, Khi- vety Alpine meadows — a distinguishing Massif and the peak of Mount Patara Bor- dotani, Archilos Klde and Atsunta. feature of the peculiarity and diversity of Soil in Pshav-Khevsureti varies accord- balo. It divides Khevsureti into two parts, the region’s tourist routes. The Chaukhi ing to altitude. Forest, peat and moun- with its crown belt being stretched north- The slopes of Khevsureti’s ridges are not- rock massif is a particularly interesting tain-meadow (which can be found be- ward. Here, in addition to Chaukhi Massif ed for their steepness, which is most pro- and impressive site to behold. tween 2,000-3,500 m a.s.l) primitive soils and the Patara Borbalo peak, the Alps rise nounced at lower heights. These steep are found here. They are mostly com- above 2800-3000 m a.s.l. Other important slopes that gradually transition into com- posed of clay slates and sandstones.

10 11 Bogoncharis Khevi, Tsatsa and Vareula. Psavis Aragvi flows into the Tetrakheva in Shuapkho.

Arkhotistskali Gorge (also known as Asa Gorge) is surrounded by high mountains and glaciers, the altitude of which reach 3,000-4,000 m a.s.l. Waters flowing down from these Alps run through the Arkho- ti Gorge. The Arkhori riverhead consists of the Tsirtslovani and Chimgha waters flowing down from the Caucasus; it flows northward from the village of Akhieli, and, in passing, feeds from the waters of Ka- lotana, Tania, Bisni, Tergha and Tateli. From Khieli (25 km from Amghi), it flows into the Ingushetia River (in the Russian Federa- tion); the Arkhoti and Ingushetia borders are also nearby.

Arghunis tskali springs from Mount Dat- visjvari. Its tributaries are Tsubrovanistskali and Gurostskali. The Arghunistkali flows

CLIMATE HYDROGRAPHY

The climate in Pshav-Khevsureti varies summer is cool (temperatures in July are RIVERS according to altitude zone. The air mass- around +10-14 0C), short and humid. The es’ direction is influenced by the system annual precipitation is ~ 1,000 mm, most Aragvi is the main river in Piraketa Khev- of the . According- of which is snow. sureti; its tributaries are: Okherkhevists- ly, different valleys often have different kali, Chakhmatistskali, Buchukurtistskali, climates. The northern part of the re- The climate in Pshavi and Piraketa Khev- Likokistskali, Datvisistskali and Akushos gion—Pirikita Khevsureti (Arkhoti-Shati- sureti is heavily influenced by the area’s Khevebi. The Pshavis Aragvi flows into the Khevsuretis Aragvi near the village of Mats- li-Ardoti)—is colder and icier than the mountain forest climatic zone (650-2,000 mo in a place called Ortskali. From Ortskali southern part (Piraketa Khevsureti and m), which is relatively cold. The average (1,154 m a.s.l), the Pshav-Khevsureti Aragvi Pshavi). The altitude above sea level rang- annual temperature in the lower zone flows towards the Zhinvali Reservoir; there, es between 1,800–4,500 meters and is is around +11 0C and +5 0C in the upper the Mtiuleti Aragvi joins it and then flows part of Alpine zone (the average annual zone. Summers are warm and autumn is into the Mtkvari River near Mtskheta. temperature is +5 0C). Winters are cold, sunny. The annual precipitation is around icy and snowy. The temperature in Janu- 1,200 mm on average. Pshavis Aragvi starts in the Borbalo ary ranges between -12 and -18 0C. Sum- (3,135m a.s.l) and Botana mountains. Its mers arrive late, and fall comes early. The tributaries are: Botanastskali, Asiskhevi,

12 13 and oak-hornbeam forests prevail; in the sub-Alpine forest zone, there are Alpine northward, towards Chechnya; it is joined is situated at 2,812 m a.s.l; the water sur- BIODIVERSITY shrubs and subalpine high grasses. The by Shatili’s Khevistskali and Mitkhulistskali. face is 0.035 km²; it is fed by snow and Alpine zone is composed of alpine mead- rain waters and is an open lake, which ows. Petrophylic flora can be found in the The Ardotistskali River riverheadis creat- subnival zone. All four zones are present means that water flows in and out of the The region’s biodiversity is influenced by in the Asa and Arghuni gorges (Pirikita ed by the waters flowing down from the lake. The lake freezes in winter; it is partic- its location at the junction of the Cen- Khevsureti). The Pshav-Khevsureti forests Andaki and Archilo mountain peaks. Its ularly picturesque in the early spring and tral and Eastern Caucasus. The flora of are characterized by their alder forests tributaries are Angelozatskali and Chan- summer, and several fish dwell within the Pshav-Khevsureti includes several rare (Alnus barbata, A. incana) and willow chakistskali. The rivers of Arghuni and Ar- lake. varieties. Over 20 varieties of flora are in- species (Salix excelsa, S.alba). In sepa- doti converge near the village of Anatorti. cluded in the Red List of Georgia, which rate areas, the black poplar (Populus nig- Thereafter the river flows to Chechnya. Tanies Lake – a karst lake located in Pirik- is an endangered species list. There are ra) and the sessile oak (Quercus petraea ita Khevsureti on the northern slope of also some endemic flora varieties that can subsp.iberica) can be found. The optimal Mineral waters in Khevsureti are known the Caucasus Range is situated at 2,232 m only be found in the Caucasus. altitude of the range is 1000 m a.s.l. In as vedza. They include: Likokis Vedza, a.s.l; the water surface is 0.033 km². It is the oak-forest formation, oak-hornbeam, Gudanis Tskaro, Nadirkhevis Vedza, Kha- fed by snow, rain and ground waters. No PSHAV-KHEVSURETI FLORA khmatis Vedza and Ghulis Vedza. Among oak-azalea, oak-nut wood and oak-cornel fish live in the lake. forests, which also have oak-spear grass these acidic waters, alkaline salt springs The level of endemism (the proportional and oak-fescue, are present. Higher up, predominate. number of endemic species) is particular- ly high among plant species. Pshav-Khev- at 1500-1800 m a.s.l, the forests give way sureti flora comprise 212 Caucasian- en to the high-mountain oak (Quercus mac- LAKES demic species, which means that 8 out ranthera). The forests in Pshav-Khevsureti Abudelauri Lake(s) – a glacial (moraine) of 17 genera spread throughout the Cau- are rather thin and sparse, and are home lake composed of two wonderful, al- casus are found here; accordingly, 34.4 % to the yellow azalea (Rhododendron le- teum) and wild fruits—Caucasian pear, pine-zone lakes: the Lurji (blue) and Tetri of the plant species found in Pshav-Khev- hawthorn and medlar. On the northern (white) lakes. Abudelauri Lake is located sureti are Caucasian endemics. slope, the oriental beech (Fagus orien- at the riverhead of Abudelauri, which is In the middle belt of the region’s moun- talis) is interspersed with the common a tributary of the Roshkistskali. The lake tains (the Aragvi River basin gorge), beech hornbeam (Carpinus betulus, C. cauca-

14 15 sicus), the field maple (Acer campestre, particularly common in the Arghuni and tle (Galepsis nana). Caucasus endemics A. laetum), the European ash (Fraxinus Asa subalpine and Alpine zones. are widespread throughout the region. excelsior), the elm (Ulmus tremula), and In particular, there are several varieties in the aspen (Populus tremula). Higher still, The cow-parsnip (Heracleum sosnowksyi) the areas running along the Roshka–Ark- the silver birch (Betula pendula) and the- is a commonly found plant in the region. It hoti and Shatili–Mighmakhevi–Atsunta high-mountain oak (Quercus macrathera) is a rather dangerous plant—when put in tourist routes. grow. The common hazel (Corylus avella- contact with bare skin, it can cause rash- na), the guelder-rose (Viburnum opulus), es, scarring, and horrible blisters. Watch Medicinal and industrial plants dog-rose (Rosa canina), and other shrubs out! The practice of medicine in Pshav-Khev- also grow in the area. Alpine meadows (‘Alpine spots’) can be sureti has a long history. Because of its re- Mid-altitude mountain forests (1,500- found in Pirikita Khevsureti at elevations moteness from the lowland, highlanders Over 200 varieties of rare grasses are 1,700 m) are composed of beech and ranging from 2900–3300 m a.s.l. The Al- had to seek out local therapeutic agents. found in the subalpine grasslands that oak-forests, which slowly give way to pine spots have several varieties of plants As such, locals used several plants that have no analogs elsewhere in Georgia. subalpine forests. The locality is charac- (Taraxacum confusum, Carum caucasi- grew in the area for medicinal purposes. In the subalpine zones, the snow rose/ terized by birch wood (Betula litwinowii). cum, Poa alpine, Carex micropodioides, Plants with medicinal properties prevail alpine tea (Rhododendron caucasicum) The endemic species, the Briza marcowiczi, Luzula sudetica, Plata- in the Andaki River Valley. Plants rich in and the bilberry (Vaccinium myrtilus, vitis Caucasian birch (Betula raddeana), pre- go saxatilis, and Minuartia oreina). There different vitamins include the common idaea) species predominate. It is note- vails in Pirikita Khevsureti and is common- are Alpine meadows on Mt. Arkhoti, the hop (Humulus lupulus) and the common worthy that the rhododendron always ly mixed with the rowan (Sorbus aucu- Guro-Giorgitsminda gorges, Khone and sea-buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides). grows a the northern slope and never on paria, S. caucasigena), goat willow (Salix Atsunta. In the subalpine and Alpine zone, Alpine the southern one. In the subalpine zone, caprea), and others. In Pirikita Khevsureti, tea, dog-roses, raspberries, crowber- the rock currant and Alpine currant (Ribes Relict and endemic species – the oldest, of particular importance is the share of ries and bilberries are widely found. The biebersteini, R. alpinum), the wayfarer or indigenous and unique plant species grow Caucasian pine (Pinus sosnowskyi). The common ragwort (Senecio platypyllus), wayfaring tree (Viburnum lantana), the throughout Pshav-Khevsureti, including: birch wood zone in some places goes up from which a cordial is prepared, grows Caucasian honeysuckle (Lonicera cauca- the yew grove, the snow rose/Alpine tea to 2500 m a.s.l. Rhododendron, yellow on Roshka rocks. In Pirikita Khevsureti, gi- sica), the gooseberry (Grossularia recli- (Rhododendron caucasicum), the Litvin- azalea, willow, and other tree varieties ant hogweed/angelica (Angelica tatianae) nata) predominate. The rhododendron is ov’s and Radde’s birches (Betuna litwino- grow alongside the birch trees. grows, which is a plant used to treat gas- wi, B.raddeana) and blue couch grass/ trointestinal disorders. astragalus (Astracanta denudata, Astrag- alus denudatus). The Armenian rowan (Sorbus hajestana), which until recently was considered to be endemic to Arme- nia, can be found in the outskirts of Shati- li and Tsukio. Half of Pshav-Khevsureti’s flora consists of plants unique to Georgia and the Caucasus.

Local endemics include the Pshavi wood fennel (Peucedanum pschavicum), varie- gated buttercups (Ficaria varia), Shatilian anise (Pimpinella schatilensis), Khevsuri- an onion (Allium chevsuricum), Ochiauri onion (Allium ochiauries), and hemp net-

16 17 PSHAV-KHEVSURETI FAUNA They are mostly found in Pirikita Khev- Pshav-Khevsureti is rich in large-size bird sureti. A small population of the bezoar/ species. In addition to the black vulture, The voice of the Caucasian snow cock wild goat (Capra aegagrus) was re- the bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus) (Tetraogallus caucasicus) is frequent- cently sighted in Pshav-Khevsureti (see and the griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus), the ly heard in the region. It is encountered Pshav-Khevsureti Protected Area, p.18). common kestrel Falco tinnunculus), the on the highest passes and peaks of the The animals encountered in Pshav-Khev- northern goshawk (Accipiter gentilis), the Greater Caucasus, although it is rarely sureti include: chamois (Rupicapra rupi- Eurasian sparrow hawk (Accipiter nisus), seen by human eyes. The Caucasian snow capra), the population of which dwell in the golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos) and cock’s habitat is high up in the mountains. the environs of Mt. Borbalo among the other bird species can be found in the Like the East Caucasian tur, it also winters subalpine forest and slopes where rhodo- region. Also worth mentioning are the at the altitude of 3000 m.a.s.l. land comes dendron is widespread; the European roe mountain chiffchaff or eastern chiffchaff down only in April–May. deer (Capreolus capreolus), the wild boar (Phylloscopus lorenzii), the green warbler (Sus scrofa) and the red deer (Cervus ela- (Phylloscopus nitidus)and the red-fronted The region is characterized by its diversity phus) are also found here, although there a few reported leopard (Panthera pardus) serin (Serinus pusillus). of mammals, especially notable being a have only been a few sightings over the sightings as well. The following small Cau- community of ungulate animals. The East There are several reptiles in the region. past few decades. casian mammal endemics are notable: Caucasian tur (Capra cylindricornis), par- The Montpellier snake (Malpolon mon- the pine vole (Microtus (Terri- ticularly large-horned he-turs that graze Pshav-Khevsureti is also noted for its spessulanus), the Caucasian viper (Vipera cola) daghestanicus), the Caucasian snow in herds at the bottom of inaccessible predators. The brown bear (Ursus arctos), kaznakovi), the sand lizard (Lacerta agilis), vole (Chionomis gud), the Radde’s shrew mountain peaks, are the real beauties of the wolf (Canis lupus) and the lynx (Lynx the spiny-tailed lizard (Lacerta rudis), the (Sorex raddei) and the Caucasian pygmy the Greater Caucasus. lynx) live in the region. There have been grass snake (Natrix natrix), and other rep- shrew (Sorex volnuchini). tiles dwell here. According to available data, 83 species Pshav-Khevsureti is also home to several of birds dwell in the region. Out of the types of butterfly. The rare species, the Caucasus endemics, another notewor- Apollo butterfly (Parnassius apollo), the thy bird is the Caucasian grouse (Tetrao large copper (Lycaena dispar), the Large mlokosiewiczi). 5 bird species on the Geor- Blue (Maculinea arion), also the rare gian Red List can be found in Pshav-Khev- Caucasus endemic—the high-altitude sureti, one of which (the cinereous vul- butterfly (Parnassius nordmanni)—have ture, Aegypius monachus) is endangered been sighted and registered in the region. worldwide and is included in the IUCN’s There are 9 species of insect found in Red List. Pshav-Khevsureti on the Red List. Of interest for birdwatchers are the Great Rosefinch and the Guldenstadts Redstart, the beautiful wall creeper, the common cuckoo (Cuculus canorus), the horned lark (Eremophilia alpes- tris), the blackbird and swallow species, the water pipit (Anthus spinoletta), the grey wagtail (Motacilla cinerea), the chaffinch (Fringilta coelebs), and many others.

18 19 PSHAV- The protected area, like the Pshav-Khev- sureti region as a whole, is characterized KHEVSURETI by its complex topography. Here, the PROTECTED deep erosive riverbeds of the rivers Ar- ghuni, Asa, Khebsuretis Aragvi and their AREA numerous tributaries divide the moun- tain ranges and the peaks rising to their crowns. The main Greater Caucasus wa- tershed and a section of side ridges (be- Pshav-Khevsureti Protected Area was es- tween Chaukhi Massif and Mt. Patara Bor- tablished in 2014 (by the Law of Georgia valo) run along the protected area. on the Establishment and Management Pshav-Khevsureti Protected Area is one of of Pshav-Khevsureti Protected Areas, 16 the richest regions in terms of high ende- April 2014) and encompasses Pshav-Khev- mism of plant species. Pshav-Khevsureti sureti National Park, Roshka Natural Mon- flora includes 212 species endemic to ument and Asa Managed Nature Reserve. the Caucasus, 35.4 % of the plant species It is possible to access Tusheti and Kazbegi found in the region are the Caucasus en- Protected Areas (PAs) via footpaths. These demics. Out of 17 Caucasus endemic gen- treks are highly popular routes among eco era, 7 are found here. tourists and nature lovers in general.

The total size of Pshav-Khevsureti Pro- PSHAV-KHEVSURETI NATIONAL tur habitats. In particular, it covers the tur terials, parts of plants, seeds and bulbs, tected Area is 80,012 ha (including the PARK AND ITS ZONES habitats of the Tergha, Tanie, Chimgha invertebrates and small-size verterbra- national park—75,936 ha, Roshka Natural and Bisna valleys. The SPA in Arkhoti cre- tes. The collection of biological data and Monument—133 ha, and the Asa Man- With the aim to promote the conserva- ates, together with the tur habitats in the specimens for scientific purposes is strictly aged Nature Reserve—3,943 ha). Moun- tion of the East Caucasian tur and wild Russian Federation, an important sanctu- controlled and requires the administra- tain landscapes and diverse and pristine goat populations that live in mostly undis- ary for the East Caucasian tur populations. tion’s consent. ecosystems contribute to the protected turbed habitats in the Pshav-Khevsureti area unique beauty. Protected Area, a strict nature protec- The SPA is also a sanctuary for a small In Pshav-Khevsureti National Park, taking tion zone/area has been established. The population of wild goats that reside in into account the social-economic inter- The “Support Zone” includes settlements Strictly Protected Area’s (SPA) purpose is the rocky forest sections facing Anatori ests of the local population, a Traditional within and adjoining the national park: to concurrently ensure the conservation and Arditi village. After the locals began Use Area has been established, where tra- Anatori, Mutso, Kistani, Lebaiskari, Ka- of other species inhabiting the area and a self-imposed restriction on hunting, the ditional economic activities are allowed, lotana, Amgha, Chimgha, Andaki, Kino, Bi- to protect the alpine and subnival flora number of the wild goats in Khevsure- for example: mowing, grazing, firewood ndaurta, Archilo, Chechketi, Shatili, Ardoti complexes distinguished by their high en- ti has steadily increased. In Georgia, the collection. Tilling and sowing are banned, (villages within the park), Ukana Pshavi demism. wild goat population has been preserved however. (Chalakhevi), Ukana Pshavi (Vakis-Sopeli), in Tusheti and Khevsureti. Orbeulta, Khorieli, Khoshara, Akneli, Mi- The “Atsunta section” (Atsunta Range and Research and educational activity, use of sakhi, Khitale, Botsaligo, Chkhuba, Ukana Mt. Tebulo vicinities) and a part of Mount The conduct of non-manipulative research eco-tourism infrastructure, walking and Pshavi (Elia-Gza), Ukankhadu, Kartsaulta, Borbalo are a continuation of the East for scientific and educational identifica- horse riding, also the use of motor vehi- Ache, Khakhmati, Biso, Atabe, Tsinkhadu Caucasian tur habitat of Tusheti Protect- tion purposes is allowed in the SPA of the cles, sport and amateur fishing in coordi- (Zeistecho), Tsnkhadu,Ustamalae, Keo, ed Area in Khevsureti. The SPA of the Na- Park. It is permissible to remove a small nation with the administration is possible Barisakho, Bochkvilo, and Chalisopeli. tional Park includes the Arkhoti Caucasian number of herbarium and collection ma- for Traditional Use Area visitors.

20 21 In the national park, a Visitor’s Area has been established for recreational, eco-touristic, and educational purposes. In the near future, the infrastructure for tourist protection, control and safety will be implemented within the Administra- tion Area.

Recreational activities including the use of all-terrain vehicles, horses, and educa- tional and research activities are allowed in the Visitor’s Area.

ROSHKA NATURAL MONUMENT

Roshka Natural Monument covers Ro- shkistskali River Valley, from the village of Roshka to the Greater Caucasus. The Greater Caucasus slopes and a great num- ber of erratic (‘wandering’) blocks create spectacular landscapes. Two huge dia- base (also known as dolerite) blocks are among the greatest erratic blocks in the world. There are comparatively smaller

but impressive blocks scattered in large Asa Managed Nature Reserve’s area en- numbers throughout the higher grounds compasses pristine pine forestlands and of the valley and near the village of Ro- marls, and is a permanent dwelling for shka. brown bears, East Caucasian turs, and lynxes—animal species which are includ- At Roshka Natural Monument, visitors ed in the Red List of Georgia. may engage in non-manipulative research and educational activities. In Asa Managed Nature Reserve, visitors may travel by foot or on horseback for educational and recreational purposes in ASA MANAGED NATURE RESERVE specially designated places; take photo- graphs and shoot films as well as visually Asa Managed Nature Reserve encompass- observe the biodiversity objects without es the left slope of the Asa River Gorge disturbing the environment; and stay and the river heads of the gorges of some overnight in specially designated places of its tributaries. and shelters.

22 23 to chronicles, Pkhovi was settled in the HISTORY 4th century; the pagan Pkhovis refused to OF PSHAV- adopt and part of them mi- grated to Tusheti and areas beyond the KHEVSURETI Greater Caucasus. The entire territory of Pshavi was part of Kvetari saeristavo (prin- cipality), then of Ertso- samouravo (province). In general, Georgian highland- According to archeological records, present er communities enjoyed a degree of au- Pshav-Khevsureti was previously inhabited tonomy (there was no serfdom); they sub- by man as early as the prehistoric age. mitted themselves only to the monarch. Khevsureti and Pshavi are mentioned in The highlander communities were admin- Georgian historical sources together as istered by Ksani and Aragvi eristavis (gov- “Phkhovi”, and the Khevsurs and Pshav ernors). They (the highlanders) defend- proper as “Phkhovelebi” (Pkhovis). To- ed the northern border of the kingdom day, this name is preserved in the village and detached forces because they were “Shuapkho” (Pshavi). regarded as exceptional warriors. Local communities were ruled by khevisberis The highland region of Aragvi Gorge in the 19th century. The residents of Shati- The Pkhovi people are first mentioned in (elders). According to community tradi- was ruled by khevisberis. The patri- li took up arms against the Shamil; they The Conversion of , a narrative work tions and when their freedom was endan- archal traditions and customs were fortified fortresses, defended against the chonicling the 's conver- gered by the royal government, they were practiced in the 20th century.- Khev troops of the Leks (Ingush) and were of- sion to Christianity in 326 AD. According ready for apostasy and rebellion. surs used to gather people for military ten victorious. meetings; their duties were to main- From a strategic and military standpoint, tain local traditions, follow tribal laws the region was a stronghold that safe- and administer justice, and assemble guarded the country from the north and troops in case of emergency. They sub- east, and defended the lowland from at- mitted to the monarch, although with- tacks of foraying troops. out disruption of the tribal unity. Starting in the 1950s, people began mi- In the last years of Queen Tamar’s rule grating from the highlands to the- low during the 12th century, the Pkhovis re- lands. In order to develop land and em- belled against the royal government, but ploy the highland population, a “planned after a three-year struggle, they resolved resettlement” was implemented by the their issues and swore allegiance to the Soviet government, which, unfortunately, th crown. In the 15 century when a united resulted in the deterioration, desertion, Georgia began to break apart into small- and disappearance of settlements, vil- er kingdoms and provinces, Pshav-Khev- lages, traditions and local economic cus- sureti and Tusheti gave up the Kingdom toms. The region is still recovering from th of Kakheti, but in the 16 century again the “planned resettlement”. Pshav-Khev- became the kingdom’s ally. sureti has yet to fully repopulate itself.

Pshav-Khevsurs played an active role in Today, the Pshav-Khevsureti Administra- fighting against the northern Caucasians tion operates within the Dusheti region.

24 25 Of particular interest is the Khevsurian ETHNOLOGICAL cow – small in body, hardy and easily HERITAGE AND fed in winter, it is noted for the high fat content of its milk and is well adapted FARMING to the difficult mountain conditions and climate.

Unlike cuttle relatively fewer sheep were raised in the region. The remote distance of winter pastures and dan- gerous transportation routes made sheep a less popular animal to raise. In general, the typical Khevsurian

Beekeeping is also prevalent in the region. possibility of growing enough wheat, bar- deck-roof house was designed so as to In lower mountain villages (Piraketa Khev- ley and rye to satisfy the daily needs of ensure comfortable housing for both surerti and Pshavi), the population was locals. Therefore, economic contact with humans and cattle. The ground floor usually grew vegetables and fished (trout the lowland is of vital importance for the (tvali) housed the family and cattle. in particular); however, such farming villages of Khevsureti. Bartering practic- The upper floor, the so-called “cher- could hardly provide for a whole family. es are still very common. Residents ex- kho”, was the men’s residence. The change their locally made dairy products third floor, a threshing floor, was used Cottage industry, which includes wool in exchange for grains, salt, wine and oth- to thresh and store grain. Cowsheds processing (knitting socks, making cover- er products. and cattle pens can still be found on lets, etc.); smithery; and silver working summer pastures. among other activities, were developed practices in Pshav-Khevsureti. Today, some families still engage in such activi- ties (fancy-work, knitting, stone dressing and woodworking); the hand-made goods For ages the Pshav-Khevsureti population of local craftsmen are noted for their ex- has bred cattle due to the vast the grass- cellence and originality. lands and pastures at their disposal. The main products are meat, cheese, refined In general, the region lacks sufficient nat- butter, and other dairy and meat prod- ural resources of commercial importance. ucts. Residents breed numerous types of The region also has poor croplands. The cows. region's mountain setting excludes the

26 27 stroyed and are only partially preserved. Ages: Guro Fortress; Lebaiskari Fortress; These ancient ruins give one an idea of the Kistani fortifications; Kachu Fortress; the history and the material and spiritual the Shatili, Mutso and Ardoti stone fortifi- culture of the region. cations; and the Khakhabo fortresses.

Of interest are the natural phenomena Anatori and Mutso vaults are particularly (rocks, trees, springs, etc.), which are interesting due to their location, architec- used as shrines and are regarded as sa- tural content and function. These build- cred places. These shrines have made it ings also date back to the . possible to preserve forests and unique ecosystems within a rather vast territory Visitors can see many of these cultural of highlands. Locals banned hunting insa - and historical monuments along several cred groves, felling trees and even mow- travel routes. ing grass was banned. The understanding and appreciation for nature has been passed on from generation to generation of the Khevsur people and is still a part of their identity to this day.

Objects of material culture were general- ly of military and defensive importance. Such buildings were erected along the northern border. Notable are the archi- tectural masterpieces of the late Middle

and customs are also interesting. The region is famous for its folk poetry and ETHNOGRAPHY traditions. It gave birth to the creation of AND CULTURAL the Lay of the of the Huntsman and the Tiger. The settlement of Mindia of Khogai HERITAGE (the hero of Khevsur folklore) is also in Pshav-Khevsureti. The Khevsur way of life was a source of inspiration for the well- known and beloved Georgian writer and poet Vazha-Pshavela.

The ethno-cultural heritage of There are over 200 items of material Pshav-Khevsureti is unique. Fortress-vil- and cultural heritage, including fortress lages in the region (Lebasikari, Shatili, towers, churches, and sanctuaries. As a Mutso, etc.) are impressive due to their matter of fact, the cross-sanctuaries and historical cross-icons and excellent myth- churches date back to the prehistoric age, ological specimens. The local way of life although most of them have been de-

28 29 maternity hut would be placed in the cor- ner of the cowshed.

More modern houses are built from stone. Cowsheds and haylofts are usually separate structures.

KHEVSUR HOUSE

Built on mountain heights in clustered Khevsur villages, a Khevsur home would host several families/households. In terms of their design and structure, Khev- sur fortresses differ in Pirikita Khevsureti (Shatil-Arkhoti) and Piraketa Khevsure- ti (Aragvi gorge). The towers of Pirikita Khevsureti have a stepwise-cylindrical roof and have a Tush tower style, while those of Piraketa Khevsureti have a Mti- uluri style.

Special compact houses for humans and cattle were built in three-story stone-built terraced structures. The ground floor’s roofing would serve as a yard for the upper floor, while the third floor would house a threshing floor and utility rooms. The ground floor, where the fireplace (kera) would usually be located, is called a shinasi, while the upper floor, where men used to sleep and hay and products in woven baskets were stored, is known as a cherkho.

PSHAV HOUSE HOUSING which sometimes is simply rectangular, Currently, houses in Pshavi are not of one however in some cases it has an angled architecturalstyle. Urban-style houses wooden beam dome called amoktseuli are most common, especially within the that is supported by a central wooden col- Magharoskari community sakrebulo. A umn called a dedabodzi. The dedabodzi is traditional Pshav house is two-story dry often adorned with wood-carved orna- stone structure. The first floor was a cow- ments and astral symbols that is an an- shed/stable, while the second was a dar- cient type of eastern Georgian dwelling. bazi – a “hall like” wide room. It has an Earlier, some houses also had a shed to opening for smoke - sakomi in the ceiling, store hay and grain. In some houses, a

30 31 RELIGION

Pagan beliefs are still strongly present in the rituals and traditions of highland- ers. Their shrine is called a khati (which is a literary icon). The highlanders asso- ciate it with God’s children, who once were corporeal creatures (humans). After their demise, they became angelic beings. As humans, they lived in mountains (e.g. such heroes as Kopala, Lakhsari, Pirkushi) and fought against human enemies—the mythical evil forces: Devs. Due to their deeds they were transformed into holy spirits. Deities were grouped according to a hierarchic ladder and their function. Each deity had its own sphere of influ- ence, for which only it was responsible. Every deity had a servant who fulfilled its master’s orders and will. Khevsurs fre- quently called upon deities to assist them very day. The location of a shrine and its in their everyday endeavors. structures represent a sacred and invio- lable place. Shrines are frequantly sur- Shrine locations (sabrdzanisi) are protect- rounded by oak or ash trees. The most sa- LOCAL CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS ed in the region and the local population cred space place where the shrine resides holds shrine festivals (khatoba) to this (nish-sabrdzanisi), which is a rectangular LOCAL VERNACULAR AND was practiced during festivals, weddings, structure built of dry slabs of stone. The FOLK POETRY while herding cattle, and when travelling. treasury of the shrine (kvrivi) also stands Therefore, it is said in the highlands: “The nearby, which only servants of the shrine The rich diverse folk poetry of Pshavi and Khevsur takes pride in his sharp blade, the are allowed to access. The sacred grove Khevsureti truly captures and presents Pshav of his equally sharp tongue”. The (shrine forest) is also inviolable. A belfry their simple and beautiful way of life. The Pshav vernacular tradition of poetry has (sazare) stands near the grove, which is Pshavs are good at expressing their sor- been eternalized by Vazha-Pshavela, in a four-pillar structure with several bells rows and spiritual emotions in verse. The whose works the local traditions and cen- hanging from it. Old sazares have slab- birth of a Khevsur was marked in verse tury-old folk wisdom are influential ele- stone pyramidal roofing, while relatively and these verses were used to commem- ments of the poet’s individualism: his rich newer ones often have a cross-shaped orate individuals after passed away. Pshav imagination, rhythmic thinking and ideals ending. poetry and Pshav kapia (versification) hold common to all mankind. a special place in local folk oral story-tell- Every shrine ensemble has its own area ing tradition. Kapia is a tradition popular Pshav and Khevsur songs are monotonic for beer brewing called a salude, which is in Pshavi, which is a form of impromp- and sad. The three-stringed mandolin-like a log earth-room containing large copper tu-conversational versification between instrument, the panduri¸ is a popular item pots to boil wort along with other rele- two rival individuals or groups. Kapia in every household. vant tools: presses, jars, plates, etc.

32 33 FUNERARY AND MOURNING RITES THE PSHAV TSATSLOBA AND KHEVSUR STSORPROBA For ages, funerary and mourning rites were given much importance in The Pshav tsatsloba and Khevsur st- Pshav-Khevsureti. One of the most pro- sorproba is a unique tradition that nounced signs of respect towards the was practiced until the 20th century. deceased was loud mourning. It was not It established premarital friendship only the expression of sorrow, but also a relationships between young women sign of praise to the deceased. The com- and men. If a young woman and man memorative days of deceased ancestors liked each other, the young man would were holidays. Special horse races and propose to become her sworn brother; horse rituals dedicated to the soul of the should the woman agree, the romantic deceased person were held in Khevsureti. relationship of stsorproba (tsatsloba The tradition of hospitality, a general in Pshavi) would commence between characteristic of Georgian culture, is espe- them. True, they could lie together, cially vivid in the traditions of highlanders. but sexual intercourse between them According to local tradition, the guest— was forbidden and they would content even a deadly enemy—is sent by God and themselves with petting only. A dagger Separate buildings like sabero—a place troness of women; Anatoris Jvari, the pro- serving the guest is the primary responsi- would be placed between them. It was where the local khevisberi stays and sa- tector of game (wild goats, deer, chamois bility of the host. The particular Khevsur a symbol of a boundary that was not jare—a spot where the community stayed and other animals); and many others. tradition of hospitality is the main subject to be overstepped. After marriage, the overnight during festivals is also an insep- One of the largest and most popular folk of Vazha-Pshavela’s famous poem Guest woman was not allowed to lie with her arable part of the shrine ensemble. festivals in Khevsureti is Atengenoba. It is and Host. sworn brother; as for the man, he could In addition to common Pshav shrines held during the second half of July, when continue the relationship of stsorproba The ritual of “eating silver” was a wide- (Lasharis Jvari, Sakvirao, Tamar-Ghele, not only locals but also those who mi- with an unmarried swornsister. Stsor- spread practice for marking a special Damasturi), every community has its own grated to the lowland come back to the proba and tsatsloba was practiced bond between friends. Friends would trim tribal village shrine (Adgilis Deda). There mountains to celebrate. between young men and women of silver into a beer mug and after receiving one community; it was also allowed are many sanctuaries: Lakhsiri, Shuapk- a blessing from the khevisberi, they would between relatives. At first, the relation- hoshi (Kist community), Kopala in Udzi- The legend about Lasharis Jvari says drink from the mug, after which they ship between the sworn brother and lauri (a Pshav community); Mtavarange- that in the 13th century, during the became sworn brothers and committed sister found its expression in visits and lozi (archangel) in Tsburta and Matura; last years of Queen Tamar’s reign, Pk- themselves to being side-by-side in both gift-giving. The sworn-sister would knit and Pirkushi in Akhadi. There are also hovs still followed their pagan religion joy and sorrow. and embroider for her sworn-brother a many others. and venerated the Angel of the Oak. According to the legend, this oak was short robe, breeches, a tobacco pouch, The most venerated of Khevsureti shrines standing on the top of a dry hill and etc., while the man would present his were called Gudanis Jvari. These partic- was the main shrine of the local com- sworn-sister with beads, buttons and ular shrines had God-granted power and munity. Queen Tamar ordered that pins, silver decorations, etc. The ori- a lakhti (belt) to exterminate devils and a church be built over the shrine and gin of stsorproba is veiled in obscurity; Devs. Other shrines called Pirimze func- donated a silver cross in the name of however this tradition can be regarded tioned to address issues related to the her son, Lasha Giorgi, to the church. as evidence of the morals of the locals heavens and clouds. There were shrines Since then the hill has been known as and the chivalrous attitude toward dedicated to Khakhmatis Jvari, the pa- Lasharis Jvari. women.

34 35 groom and bride needed to separate for According to local legend, the snake a week, after which the bride would- re would live on top of the house in which turn to her parents’ home and stay there the family members lived and dined. for a year. This process was also a means of helping the couple to get to know one In spring, when the cuckoos start to sing, another better, and to build honesty and people would try to avoid hearing the faithfulness. Afterwards, they would be cuckoo’s voice in the morning on an emp- able to truly begin their marital relation- ty stomach, lest they grow weak in the ship. summer. As such, in the morning, if a per- son saw the cuckoo on a tree, s/he would UPBRINGING OF CHILDREN take a bite and say, ‘Cuckoo, I beat you”.

Infants in Pshav-Khevsureti traditionally Mitslikona’s burial. There are fleecy slept in a cradle. The cradle resembles centipade caterpillar called mitslikona a wooden box that is low to the ground in Pshav-Khevsureti. To see one is an ill and covered with hay in the bottom. The omen. If anyone accidentally came across infant’s baptised name used to be cho- one’s she/he would need to bury it alive sen according to the vestry calendar. Al- and wail the following: “Mitslikona, mit- 10–12, they were allowed to freely use ternatively, a traditional name was used. slikona, to the earth you’ve been commit- their daggers. Fathers raised their sons The upbringing of children—particularly ted. Till you arise and get over nine hills, surrounded by adults, and trained them of boys—was more so a father’s duty. In let my family and parents’ house live and to converse and taught them customary Khevsureti, boys used to carry daggers thrive; mitslikona passed away, ililme and traditions. in their childhood. Between the ages of shililme”. KHEVSUR AKIMNI/MEDICINE

MATCHMAKING, WEDDING Especially renowned were the Khevsur AND WEDLOCK akimni, who were witch doctors that The cradle-wedding tradition has long could perform the most complicated op- been preserved in Pshav-Khevsureti. A erations, including trepanation of the akimni similar tradition was followed through- skull. The local kept their medical out the Caucasus and different regions of art confidential, handing it down to future Georgia. A family would choose another generations. Natural therapeutic agents family and establish a relationship with (honey, beeswax, plants and different them; the uncle of the child (boy) lying in parts on animal bodies, urine, stones, the cradle would take a “sign”, a symbolic etc.) were used in their treatments. As an present (usually a silver coin), and, togeth- anesthetic, the doctors would used a spe- tsintsarakali er with the parents of the future daugh- cial bitter vodka called . ter-in-law, hang the gift on the cradle. He LEGENDS AND STORIES would also bring araki (vodka), kada-puri (sweet bread) and the fate of the future Pshavi residents believed in the existence newly weds would be blessed. The ritual of apudzis gveli (a home guardian snake) would be repeated every new year until that was constantly around the house. the wedding. During the wedding, the The snake was often seen but never killed.

36 37 to whether the woman was married or ornamental patterns. Black, green, blue, was recently widowed. Samkhedroni, a dark red and yellow are the dominant col- male’s attire, had colorful embroidery ors. with crosses and astral symbols. The out- fit was traditionally accompanied by chain Woodworking and wood carving are also armor, and a sword, shield, and helmet. long-standing traditions in Pshav-Khev- An indispensable part of the outfit was sureti. Archeological discoveries of carved the knitted britches (pachichebi) and bast ottomans, chairs, and bedsteads, the shoes (tatebi) with leather soles. graphic ornamental pattern used in - res idential and religious buildings are- ev The traditional clothes of Pshavs -resem idence of the region’s expertise in the ble those of Mtiuls. A one-piece female aforementioned crafts. dress in Pshavi is called a juba. Later on, short, long-sleeve jacket called a sagule one-piece cloth dresses as well as wrin- under the juba. Woman also wore belts LOCAL HANDICRAFTS AND CLOTHES kled two-piece dresses were introduced. and a headdress called a tavchita to com- The dresses, which were short and tight plete the outfit. Handcraftsmanship is a long-lasting tradi- around the waise with an opening around tion in the remote mountainous villages In wintertime, women wore a coat made the armpits, had a mantel called a papa- of Pshav-Khevsureti. Mastering fancywork of sheep skin in addition to their other nagi, which was decorated with buttons was the duty of highlander women. Wom- attire. The coat tightens around the waist and coins. Woman wore shirts and a en were trained in wool processing and and short. Pshav and Khevsur women dying from their childhood. Highlander were fond of decorations and wore neck- women used to color fabrics using natural laces made of silver coins and crosses. It dyes, which they would sew into clothing was common for leather or silver to adorn and other household items. women’s dresses.

Clothes in Pshav-Khevsureti were made The male outfit consisted of a bright-col- from local wool. The cloth used is thick, ored shirt called a samkhre and the tra- heavy and crude but is durable and resis- ditional slim line Khevsur , which tant to wear and tear. had cross-like details on the shoulders. Indispensible attributes of the male dress A remarkable specimen of Georgian folk were the silver belt, dagger and knitted art is a traditional garment of Khevsurs britches, cow-hide footwear and felt cap. called a talavari. It is sewn from dark The modest character of the ornamental blue or black wool cloth. Women’s tra- pattern and color combination obtained ditional outfit, a dress called a sadiatso by natural dyes is a general element of and a mantel called a koklo. Sadiatso are Georgian art that one can see reflected in shorter dresses that are tight around the the traditional clothes in every region of waist and decorated with sophisticat- the country. ed geometric patchwork, embroidery, fine beads, coins and buttons—all of Carpet and rug production are among the which have sacred meaning. The tradi- leading products of local cottage crafts- tional Khevsur woman’s headdress was manship. It is characterized by the so- also remarkable and differed according phisticated combination of cross-shaped

38 39 tasting of local cuisine dishes and Khevsur beer is held in Khevsur stone houses and FOLK HOLIDAYS towers, some of which now serve as ho- tels. A feast and sporting event, a horse race, take place surrounded by a back- ground of singing, poetry, and rhymes.

Vazhaoba is an event dedicated to the great Georgian writer and poet Vazha-Pshavela. Every year (in summer OTHER LOCAL HOLIDAYS or autumn) a traditional exhibition and Religious holiday Kopaloba – date tasting of agricultural products and folk varies, Pshavi, Khevsureti handicrafts, a horse race and folk festival are held on the territory of the writer’s New Year’s holiday Vazha’s Days – house-museum in the village of Chargali June, Chargali (Pshavi). Writers, poets, actors come here from every regionin Georgia to read aloud New Year’s holiday Misha Khalashvili’s and recite the works of Vazha-Pshavela. Days – June, Ukana Pshavi WEAPONS AND ARMS Shatiloba annual festival is held in July. A New Year’s holidays Lasharoba and traditional fair of hand-crafted goods, the Tsabaurta – date varies, Pshav villages

Weapons and arms had high importance in Pshav-Khevsureti. Arms included rifles, pistols, swords, daggers, spears, whips, spiked rings, shields, coats of mail, ar- mored gloves, knee plates, and other items. Smithery in Pshav-Khevsureti was a traditional and developed branch of craftsmanship. The locals used to forge swords and rifle barrels, Assyrian-type coats of mail, and shields that were painted black in order not to glimmer in the moonlight. The Pshav-Khevsur peo- ple produced a variety of rifles: istamu- li (Turkish), khirimi (Crimean), mazhari (Hungarian), siata (French). They also pro- duced a variety of swords: Khevsur pran- gula, davitperuli, dedal-pranguli (German and Austrian), mamal-pranguli (Italian), dedal-misruli (damask), khorosnuli. In addition, they produced several daggers: shamkhali, targho, lekuri, kisturi, etc.

40 41 Footpaths and horse paths are available CUISINE HOW TO GET TO from Tusheti and Khevi. THE REGION Dairy products, meat and beer are char- The motor road leading to Magharoskari acteristic features of Pshav-Khevsureti AND PSHAV- and Barisakho operates year round, cuisine. Round-shaped bread is gener- KHEVSURETI whereas the Barisakho-Shatili section is ally baked from barley in stone ovens. It closed from the second half of autumn to is also a tradition to shape loaves bread PROTECTED AREA spring due to the large amount of snow by means of a wooden implement. Kada the section receives over the winter. Inner bread is baked both kveliani (with cheese) rural roads have been built and operate KHAVITSI - 4 kg melted butter everywhere (except Arkhoti), including in and khavitsiani guliani (with cottage 50 km along the road leading from Tbili- 50 g milk (or water) the Shatili-Mutso communities, although cheese). are made with meat, si northward to , near 1 tablespoon salt in Pirikita Khevsureti, vehicular transpor- cottage cheese and potato fillings. the village Chinta, there is a turn to the 1.5 kg brown flour tation is only possible for 5 months of the right, from which a dirt road runs along Milk is used to produce melted butter, year. Khavitsi is cooked in a copper pan. Melt the Zhinvali reservoir. The road passes cheese, dambali khacho, which is a spe- a tablespoon of salt in 50 g of milk, add the village of Shuapokho and the Chargali cial soaked cottage cheese. Dambali kha- 4 kg of melted butter and stir the mix- junction, and the village of Magharoskari cho is a Pshav dish that was recognized ture until it is fully combined. After it (the administrative center of Pshavi) to as part of Georgia’s intangible heritage in boils, add 1.5 kg of brown flour, put it take you to Barisakho. The Pshav-Khev- 2014. Beef and mutton are in a variety of on a low heat and stir occasionally with sureti Protected Area begins at the village local meat dishes. a flat wooden spoon for about 2 hours. of Ortskali, wherefrom to the right, along At first a thick mixture is produced which Melted butter is used to prepare a tradi- the Pshavis Aragvi, the road runs to Ukana should be stirred until it starts thinning – tional dish called khavitsi (cottage cheese Pshavi. To the north, it passes through the the flour mixture will sink to the bottom boiled in butter). The most popular dish- Khevsur villages – Barisakho, Korsha, Gu- and the butter will come to the surface. es to treat guests are kninkali (dump- dani, Biso, and others until the road goes When the mass changes its color, the lings generally with the filling of mutton up along a scenic area and goes through khavitsi is ready. but also of cottage cheese and pota- Datvisjvari Pass (2676 m a.s.l.), which toes spiced with onion and pepper) and Fruit and vegetables grow well in Pira- leads to Shatili. On the way, the Lebai- Public transport ketseula ( cooked in melted keta Khevsureti and Pshavi. To prepare skiri and Kistni towers are observable. At Datvisjavari Pass you might see tourists butter). (a vegetable pate made of spinach A minibus takes passengers to Shatili admiring the boundless landscapes of and other herbs), the following herbs three times a week (from the village of Khevsureti. can be used: amaranth, pigweed, fern, Gamarjveba to Shatili and from Didube nettle and watercress. Local fruits and bus station (Tbilisi) to Shatili). berries include pears, apples, strawber- • Tbilisi-Mtskheta–Chinti– ries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, Magharoskari–Shatili– 150 km; can A bus takes passengers to Shuapkho from bilberries, etc. be covered in 4-5 hrs; includes 70 the Didube bus station 3 days a week. km of dirt mountain road. For holiday feasts, locals make vodka A bus travels to Barisakho 4 times in and beer. Vodka is distilled from barley, • Tbilisi–Tianeti–Magharoskari– a week and travels on a daily basis to hop and barley-hop mix. Sometimes it Barisakho–Shatili – 170 km; 100 km Magharoskari and Chargali. is made from common elder and elder. footpath; includes 120 km of dirt Beer has a special place in Pshav-Khev- Minibuses to Barisakho depart from the mountain road. sur culture. Didube bus station.

42 43 Table 1. Dynamics of settlements and HISTORICAL AND population of Pshavi. Barisakho and GEOGRAPHICAL Ukanapshavi

UNITS YEAR 1886 1959 1970 2002

NUMBER OF 48 33 30 30 VILLAGES

PSHAVI POPULATION 5067 1411 1335 1002

The main river of Pshavi is Aragvi, which Pshavi is the southeastern part of histor- originates in Botana-Borolo (3,135 m). Cli- ic Pkhovi. It was named in the 16th cen- mate change is caused by the physical and tury. Today, together with Khevsureti, it geographical situation of Pshavi (1,000- belongs to . Pshavi 3,000 m a.s.l). In comparison with the is known in Georgia as the native land of lower areas of the Caucasus, the climate Vazha-Pshavela. The great poet was born is relatively mild. The annual average tem- and worked in the village of Chargali. perature is 11 0C, with cold winters that Pshavi is the smallest historic and ethno- are 6 0C on average. The annual precipita- graphic province of Georgia. It is bordered tion is between 1,000-1,200 mm, and rain by Khevsureti to the north, Gudamakari and mist is common in the summertime. to the west, and Tianeti to the southeast. Pshavi ranked second among Georgia’s re- The area of Pshavi is sparsely populated. gions in terms of sheep breeding, with the The district has historically had small vil- most popular sheep breeding area being lages within the Magharoskari and Ukana Tusheti. Because of the pastures - neces Pshavi (Shuapkho) sakrebulos. The popu- sary for the activity, Pshav sheep breeders lation’s migration, caused by hard living settled in , Gombori, Ertso-Tianeti and and economic conditions, started in the Shiraki; the cottage industry in the area 19th century. At the end of the 19th cen- works primarily with sheep-breeding re- tury, there were 48 villages in Pshavi, and lated activities. the population exceeded 5 thousand; to- storing the fortress-towers. Additionally, tress is difficult to access. A 70 cm thick foreign tribes rarely penetrated into the wall stands in the northern part. To the day’s statistics are as follows: up to 20 vil- MONUMENTS OF CULTURE region and defensive warfare could be south, the fortress meets a steep cliff, lages and 1,000 inhabitants. According to There are no towers preserved in Psah- carried out without fortresses. on the northwestern part of which some their respective populations, very sparse- vi—only ruins. There are several ru- gaps are observable. ly populated villages can be found in Uka- ins in Ukanapshavi, which is where the na Pshavi—7 of which have less than 10 PSHAV FORTRESS WALL Pshav communities originally settled. A similar 50 x 50 m fortress wall has been inhabitants. The population of Pshavi to- These tower-fortresses were generally At the converging point of Shuapkho and preserved in the village of Muko. Its wall th day is scattered along the Aragvi, Iori, Ilto destroyed in the 13 century when the Goglaurta, on a high hill, the dry stone is high and has some gaps. Two towers are and Alazani riverheads. They also live in Pshav’s rebelled against the king. After- wall of Pshav Tsikhe-Gora Fortress stands; built on it. Both Mtiuluri-style towers are Gombori, Ertso-Tianeti and Shiraki. wards, they were prohibited from re- its height and width is 14 x 25 m. The for- partially destroyed.

44 45 PSHAVI TOURIST ROUTES 1

1 BARISAKHO–ORTSKALI–TKHILIANA– SHUAPKHO–MUKO–UKANAPSHAVI Easily-driven motor road (dirt) Distance: 25 km Length: 7 hrs (on foot) Max. height: 1,630 m Min. height: 1,330 m

6 km from Barisakho, in the village of Ortskali, a dirt road turns to the right and runs along the right bank of the Aragvi River. 4-wheel drive SUVs can make it up to Ukanapshavi. Footpaths on the route run all the way up to the Great Caucasus, passing the villages of Shaupkho, Muko (1.1) and Ukanapshavi (1.2).

Trails leading to the Greater Caucasus ly brought in during the spring flood and 1.2 UKANAPSHAVI–SORBISGORI Range from Pshavi their location changes from year to year. RANGE 5km along the way, the road goes to the Distance: 7 km. Average difficulty small village of Matura, and there from runs along the eastern river bank up to Length: 4 hrs (on foot) 1.1 MUKO–MATURA–BOROLA the range and the local shrine (1700 m Max. height: 3,000 m RANGE ENVIRONS a.s.l). It then goes round the mountain Min. height: 1,620 m massif and runs up to a height of 2,200 Distance: 14 km. Above average difficulty m. Therefrom the route stops climbing From the village of Eliagza in Ukana Psha- Length: 6 hrs (on foot) and runs eastward along the range, par- vi, the trail goes northward to Mt. Saorbis- Max. height: 2,900 m allel to the Borilo river gorge. After sev- gora. After 7 kilometers, it joins the third Min. height: 1,330 m eral kilometers, it reaches the bottom of (Datvisjvari-Borola) footpath, wherefrom the Greater Caucasus Range, crosses the it is possible to go over both Andaki Pass The trail starts in the nearby surround- river and goes up along a steep 700-m (13 km eastward) and Datvisjvari Pass (7 ings of the village of Muko and goes to rise towards the range. After passing this km westward). From Andaki Pass west- the Maturkhevi River gorge. It is possi- distance, at a height of 2,900 m a.s.l, the ward, the route descends to the villages ble to cross the river by means of small route joins the third (Datvisjvari-Borola) of Andaki, Mutso and Shatili. Going east- wood rafts/logs. These logs are frequent- footpath. ward, it runs to Mt. Borola.

46 47 Before the 1950s, 81 inhabited villages The Barisakho and Shatili municipali- KHEVSURETI were in the basins of these gorges, in- ties comprise 10 principal communi- cluding 35 located within the heads of the ties: Aragvi River Basin. Today, 33 of Khevsure- ti’s villages are completely deserted; 48 Khevsureti encompasses the Aragvi (Bari- Piraketa Khevsureti villages (200 households, 700 persons) are sakho, Gudani–Piraketa Khevsureti), Ark- (Barisakho Communiity Sakrebulo) hoti, Shatili and Ardoti (Pirikita Khevsure- inhabited, although the majority of them ti) gorges. Khevsureti borders Tusheti to spend winter in lowland districts. Only 20 • Gveleti Community – villages: the east, the Russian Federation (Chechn- villages have permanent residents. Motsmao, Sakhile, Datvisi, Gveleti, ya) to the north, Khevi and Mtiulet-Guda- Achekha Table 2. Khevsureti Population Dynamics makarito the west, and Pshavi to the • Barisakho Community – villages: south. Khevsureti has several deep gorg- BARISAKHO SHATILI Kvemo Barisakho, Zemo Barisakho, Khevsureti es; its name sake implies that COMMUNITY COMMUNITY Korsha it is a place of deep gorges, as the term • Chirdili Community – villages: Chir- khevi means gorge in Georgian. YEAR 2010 2012 2010 2012 dili, Buchkurta, Uakanakho, Lipoda, NUMBER OF Ubani, Okherkhevi 204 163 67 56 HOUSEHOLDS • Tskalsikiti Community – villages: POPULATION 604 526 251 119 Ghelisvake, Kmosti, Roshka, Blo • Gorsheghmi Community – villag- es: Ukankhadu, Tsinkhadu, Atabe, Batsaligo, Chkhuba, Akbeli, Zeistech- no • Gudani Community – villages: Gu- dani, Ghuli, Chie, Biso, Khakhmati, Chormeshavi, Zenubani • Likoki Community – villages: Akusho, Chalisopeli, Kobulo, Keo, Kartsaulta, Bogcvilo

Pirikita Khevsureti (Shatili Community Sakrebulo)

• Arkhoti Community – villages: Amgha, Chimgha, Akhiela • Shatili Community – villages: Shatili, Giorgitsminda, Kistani, Lebaiskari, Guro • Mighmakhevi Community – villages: Mutso, Khanis Dziri, Ardoti, Khone, Khakhabo, Archilo, Andaki, Tsukie.

48 49 gel’s Cross; and the ensemble of a shrine POINTS OF including a hall, granary, “Droshat Sabza- INTEREST IN ni”, tower, belfry tower, and the wall.

KHEVSURETI Akhieli Batakat House-fortress is located in central Akhieli. Kharat Tower-fortress is located 200 m northeast in the upper Arkhotiis situated in the Asa River Gorge, part of the village. in northern Khevsureti, bordering In- Anatori Cross is situated in Pirikita Khev- gushetia to the west. It joins Piraketa sureti, 3 km from Shatili, at the conflu- Khevsureti via footpath. The principal ence of the Arghuni and Mutsostskali sanctuary of the Arkhoti community is the rivers within the ancient village of Ana- cross of St. Michael the Archangel. Only tori. According to historical sources, the three villages still remain in Arkhoti. village, where the family of Sisuaris lived, Amgha is situated near the Arkhoti com- died out in the 18th century. Long ago, the munity. The fragmentary remains of village was plagued by an infection, and crypt discovered wooden vessels, various buildings preserved on terraces of the for- since no one remained to bury and take knickknacks, arrowheads and coins. The mer village are built from dry slate stones. those who had passed away to the crypt, Anatori Cross was the common sanctuary The monuments preserved in the village the sick villagers had to go themselves to of the Shatili community. environs are: Gagati House-fortress; - Ta the crypt and patiently await their demise traulebi Tower; Orbelti Church, the site of there. In the crypt, along the wall, slate- Ardoti is a village built on the left bank of an ancient village; Kaviskatri Tower; the stone three-tier burial spaces were- ar the Andaki River in the Shatili community iron cross of church ruins; the Sveti An- ranged. Archaeological excavations in the (Pirikita Khevsureti), at a height of 1,820 m a.s.l.—15km from Shatili. A church from the 19th century, a so-called “free cross” type structure, the Ziviadauri Tow- er (which is located in the southern part Giorgitsminda Hill-Fortress (Tsikhetgori) of the village, on the slope), dates back Necropolis is an archaeological monu- to the Middle Ages. The Blessed Virgin’s ment 5 km from Shatili at the confluence Cross can be found in the village. The of the Arghuni and Giorgitsmindistskali sanctuary consists of a hall, belfry, the Rivers (v. Giorgitsminda, Pirikita Khev- lighting towers, boiler, public room (sa- sureti). It dates back to the end of the 3rd jare) and a granary. century BC. The village has no permanent residents today. Barisakho is the administrative center of Khevsureti. The village has a school, a Gudani Cross, a the 19th century relic is medical center and a police station. The situated in the village of Gudani (Piraketa Georgian National Museum keeps a ritual Khevsureti). It is considered to be the prin- water vessel with the depiction of a lion cipal deity of the three main tribal-com- sacrificed to the Barisakho Khmala Angel munal unions of Arabulis, Chincharaulis (12th-14th cc). and Gogochuris and is a religious center for all of Khevsureti.

50 51 Kistani Village-fortress—this medieval historic-architectural monument is situat- ed in the Arghuni river gorge at an eleva- tion of 1,800 m a.s.l. The village-fortress is built on a rock relief and is divided into two compact units. The main part of the village (now the site of an ancient settle- ment) consisted of up to 30 house-for- tresses, which served both domestic and defensive purposes. The ruins of these house-fortress have been preserved. Not far from the village, on a high rock, two well-preserved defensive structures stand.

Lebaiskiri Tower is located in the Arghuni river gorge, near the site of the ancient Guro, the former village of Shatili, is situ- settlement of Lebaiskiri, at a distance of ated 7.5 km southwest of Shatili’s current 300 m from the Barisakho-Shatili motor Mutso—a village-fortress situated in Pirik- Roshka is situated in Pirikita Khevsure- location. Currently, the village has no per- road. The tower dates back to the Mid- ti and is one of the oldest settlements, manent residents. In the town, there are dle Ages. The tower has five stories and ita Khevsureti, in the Ardoti river gorge, through which an important inner road the remains of a 17th-18th century pyra- is built of rubble. The entrance is in the at 1,800 m a.s.l., at a distance of 12 km passed. In the 19th century, the local mide-shaped tower that used to have five east on the second floor, 2.2 m above the from Shatili, on top of high rocks. Since population began migrating from Roshka stories in the village. ground. time immemorial, Mutso has been a sin- gle fortification, a defensive system and to Ertso-Tianeti. According to the 1924 the principal safeguarding point of the census, 137 people lived in the village; roads leading to Georgia from the north. their primary economic activity was cattle In the village, which was depopulated breeding. Currently, the village has only a more than a century ago, there are up few permanent residents. Didgori Cross— to forty medieval houses and household the principal sanctuary of Roshka-Kmos- ti—is not far from the village. It includes structures. They are located on vertical a hall, a space for castrating cattle, Mari- terraces on top of Mutso-Ardoti Gorge. amtsminda Tower and a belfry. Today, four tower-fortresses and the ruins of several dwellings have been preserved, Khakhabo Village-fortress is located in including the legendary Torghvi Fortress Pirikita Khevsureti, 25 km from Shatili. and a tower. Mutso is divided into two The ruins of over 30 house-fortresses parts: the upper, older, Shetekari district, have been preserved in the village. Prince and the second, relatively new, Diauri dis- Bedli Angel’s Cross is located on a high trict. The remote village is a popular site rock northeast of the village. The ensem- among tourists and mountain climbers. ble of the shrine consists of a granary, boiler and belfry.

52 53 Shatili Village-fortress is a monument of Georgian architectural art. It is located to the north of the Greater Caucasus Range, at 1,400 m a.s.l. The village-fortress is 170 km from Tbilisi. This late Middle Ages construction served as both a dwelling and fortification. A series of clustered house-fortresses create a single, defen- sive wall that protected the village. Only a narrow road running through the Ar- ghuni Gorge connects the village to the outer world. Shatili is terrace-built; the principal type of buildings are flat-roofed houses and tower dwellings. What makes Shatili unique is its system of connection through inner passes, which makes it possible to move within the whole village without leaving its defenses. Since 2007, Shatili has been included in the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites.

54 55 are included in the Red Book; vaucluses KHEVSURETI (karst water springs) and alpine “green TOURIST lakes” can also be observed here. ROUTES The most scenic view, encompassing the 2 southern part of Chaukhi Massif, the Ka- zbegi peak and the main North Caucasus Range, opens from Mt. Chaukhi (3,338 m a.s.l). One can also observe the Sadzele 2 BARISAKHO–ROSHKA–ABUDELAURI– and Arkhoti passes and Arkhoti, Kalotani CHAUKHI–JUTA–STEPANTSMINDA and Tanie ranges up to Datvisjvari Pass. The route can be traversed by foot, The route goes over to the main Greater horseback and partially by car (from Caucasus Range. The village of Juta (1,509 Barisakho to Roshka and from Juta to m a.s.l.) is 7 km the first settlement. From Stepantsminda). Juta, a motor road runs along the Sno gorge to the regional center, Stepants- Distance: 14 km (Roshka-Chaukhi), minda. total distance — 50 km (Barisakho-Stepantsminda) Above average difficulty 2.1 ROSHKA–SADZELE PASS–JUTA– Length: 6-7 hrs (on foot) STEPANTSMINDA Max. height: 3,338 m Traversing this route can be accomplished Min. height: 2,000 m via a footpath, which starts on the Bari- sakho-Dudani road. After traversing about 9 km from Barisakho, there is a left turn on 3 8 km and crossing a bridge, there is a 7 km the Barisakho-v.Gudani road. From there, route that ends in Roshka. The route can a dirt road runs along the right bank of the covered by foot or horseback. Aragvi River to the village of Roshka. The local landscape is defined by deciduous Distance: 7 km. Average difficulty trees from the middle mountain belt. Vis- Length: 607 hrs (on foot) itors can see a forest of protected species of alpine oak (Quercus macranthera) and Max. height: 3,056 m elm (Ulmus glabra). From Roshka (2,000 Min. height: 2,000 m m a.s.l), the route goes to the Mt. Chaukhi The route from Barisakho to Roshka fol- Massif (3,852 m a.s.l) and the Abudelauri lows a motor road. Northwest along Rosh- lakes (2, 600 m a.s.l). The distance from ka Gorge, the trail goes to Tapoba, which the village of. Roshka to Abudelauri (the is at the foot of Sadzele Pass (3,056 m southern slope of Mt. Chaukhi) is 4 km. a.s.l.). About 2,500 m along the path, the The site is noted for its intrusive forma- pass begins a steep incline. The trail 4.2 tion of the Jurassic Age, the so-called joins the site. Passing this section of the “swinging blocks”, which have been grant- Roshka-Juta route is easier than that of ed the status of a national monument and Chaukhi (Trail 2).

56 4 and Shatili, and Mutso goes over to Tusheti, pass both ing thesurroundings ofMt.Borbalo. to descends it wherefrom m), range,the along km eastward13 forruns (2,887 Pass Andaki reaches route third The 1.2). and (1.1 Pshavi to leading peak crosses(2,954 m)and the trails with Borola the m), (3,024 Chanchakhi Mt. of peak the to eastward goes it m, 3,000 of height a reaching Upon Range. Caucasus Greater main the up leads and eastward turns proper trail third The Gorge. Ardoti to over then and Khakhabo toof village the up Chanchakistskali the along goes it wherefrom Pass), rovana/Chanchakhi leads to Khakhabo (7.1 and – Datvisjavari-Tsub turns trail The m). (2,500 River kali 3 and passing the main Greater Caucasus Caucasus Greater main the passing and a.s.l. m 3,000 of height a reaching Upon southeast. leads road the Kistani, From Min. height: 1,700m Max. height: 3,287m Length: Distance: 38km.Difficult horseback. and foot by traversed be can route The road, then descends to the Chanchakists the to descends then road, (2,767 m), continues eastward on the main Pass Datvisjvarifrom commences trail The Mon. height: 2,000m Max. height: 3,024m Length: Distance: 19km.Above average difficulty 58 KISTANI–KALOTANA PASS (2 978m) DATVISJAVARI PASS CHANCHAKHI ANADAKI PASS AMGHA–AKHIELI–ARKHOTI–JUTA –KALOTANA ANDASA GORGES– 2-3days 8-9hrs (onfoot) – BOROLA – – - - - 4.1 road runsfrom Juta to SnoGorge. motor dirt A way. the on Juta of outside Rosh – (TrailRoshkatransferska-Sadzele).to2.2 that There station police a is km 4 trail main the join to m 2,700 of at a height River Veshatskali down little further the follows and m, 2,700 of height the a reaching gorge, the towards down goes route the m) (3,287 Pass Arkhoti At and turns westward towards Arkhoti Pass. trailthe km, follows mountainthe stream ka Gorge (Trail 4.2 – 9.5 km). After about 5 Rosh the through Arkhoti to leading trail the joins and southward turns gorge, the lage, a 7-km section of the trail runs along vil the FromRiver. Asa the form to join streams mountainseveral Akhieli, of lage vil the River,in south-westward,Asa the with parallel in confluence, Kalotana and Asa the from km 4 trail: northward The Trail li ornorthward5, overwhich to ArkhotiGorge. continues eastward to Shati joins route the here, River.From Asa the of confluence the to descends and gorge the along continues path the Thereafter m). (1,700 settlement Kalotana ancient an of site the to gorgeup followsthe and River Kalotana the of reaches upper the towards northward Pass Kalotana descends from 4 Trail main the of path The ward to Gudani (11.5km). 3, of height a Kalotana Pass along the Caucasus ranges at trailmain divided—one goes northward to is Pass, Kalotana reaching not while trail, The m). (2,768 Pass Anatorisgheli towards nekhistskali River, the road turns westward (which isthepath goingover to Roshka). Trail2 the with Trail4 connects path This ag, t ecns atad A te Ak the At eastward. descends it Range, 41 pse Aae n dsed south descends and Atabe passes (4.1) UKANDAKHU

000 m, while the other trail other the while m, 000 – ATABE – GUDANI ------

4 59 - 61 northwestward northwestward to the village of Tanie, the wherefrom road forks northward and southward. Both paths pass through the gorge. The southward route (5.1) goes m) (2,232 Lake Tanie to Gorge Tanie along and continues further southward, where, at a height of 3,000 m a.s.l., joins Trail 4 in heads Atabe, of village the passing and, of Gudani. the direction Trail 5 proper continuesfrom the Tanie Gorge northwestward up to the Asa Riv er 4Trail tributary; it (the thereafter joins goes which confluence), Kalatana and Asa from the Asa River up to the village of the gorge. to Akheli and then over - - - - – – m) Giorgitsmin — 486 m). The route continues continues route The m). 486 GIORGITSMINDA – 2 days, 10 hrs (on foot) 10 hrs 2 days, KALOTANA PASS (2,978 KALOTANA AND ASA GORGES ASA AND KALOTANA SHATILI The route can be traversed by foot, horse foot, by traversed be can route The da motor road, the trail runs along the Giorgitsminda river gorge up (3 Pass ghele to Isart 5 (Shatili-Giorgits car by partially and back, minda) difficulty average 29 km. Above Distance: Length: 3,486 m height: Max. 1,800 m Min. height: After passing the Shatili

5 6

6 SHATILI–ANATORI–MUTSO– m), passes forests and reaches a small KHONICHALA–KHIDOTANI– plateau. There from, at an elevation of ap- ATSUNTA PASS proximately 2,500 m, there is a turn to a second trail (6.1 – Khidotani Gorge-Anda- The route can be traversed by foot, ki River). The main route continues south horseback and partially by car (Shati- eastward towards Atsunta Pass (3 519 m). li-Mutso-Khonischala, 14 km). Creating a Several kilometers from the Kharostska- corridor between Tusheti and Khevsure- li River, at a height of about 3,000 m, a ti, it is one of the most popular trails in steep serpentine road goes along slopes Pshav-Khevsureti. of slate rocks and eventually arrives at Atsunta Pass. Distance: 25 km. Above average difficulty Length: 2 days, 8-9 hrs (on foot), 5 hrs (partially by car) 6.1 KHIDOTANI RIDGE– Max. height: 3,519 m ANDAKI RIVER Min. height: 1,800 m This trail connects two long routes, mak- The route follows a dirt road from Shati- ing it possible to go directly down from li northeastward. 2 km along the route, Khidotani Range westward to Andaki at the confluence of the Andaki and- Ar Gorge. It is a good choice for those want- ghuni rivers, Anatori burial grounds can ing to travel from Atsunda to the Pshavi be found. The motor road runs southward region or middle Khevsureti. along the Andaki River Gorge, 12 km from Distance: 4 km. Above average difficulty which is the village of Mutso. From Mut- Length: 2 hrs so, along the Khonistskali River, the path goes through the village of Khonischala Max. height: 2,400 m and ascends via a steep dirt road (1,900 Min. height: 1,800 m

62 7 SHATILI–MUTSO–ARDOTI– 7.1 ARDOTI VILLAGE ANDAKI–ARCHILO– SURROUNDINGS–KHAKHABO ANDAKI PASS–BORBALO VILLAGE–MOUNT CHANCHAKHI SURROUNDINGS The route can be travered by foot, horse- back and partially by car (Shatili-Mut- This trail connects two long routes (Route 7 so-Ardoti, 16 km). From Mutso to Andaki 3 and 7) and makes it possible to travel Pass, the trail will repeatedly cross the between Khevsureti to Pshavi. The trail Andaki River and its small tributaries. Giv- crosses the Chinchristskali River several en that in springtime water levels in the times during the first 6 km of the route. river tend to rise, traversing this trail can be difficult. Distance: 12 km. Difficult Length: 6 hrs on foot Distance: 25 km. Difficult Max. height: 3,134 m Length: 9 hrs (on foot), Min. height: 1,800 m 6 hrs (by car and on foot) Max. height: 3,134 m The route starts in the southern part of the village of Ardoti (at about 1 km along Min. height: 1,400 m the trail) and heads westward along the From Shatili, the route follows a dirt road Chinchristskali. After 6 km, the trail leads northeastward along the Arghuni River. to the village of Khakhabo (at 2050 m After 2 km, at the confluence of the Anda- a.s.l.), where some medieval fortifications ki and Arghuni rivers, some Anatori burial are located. The path goes southwest- can be found. The dirt motor road follows ward along the river gorge. After 6 km, it the Andaki River Gorge southward, where joins Trail 3 at 2,500 m a.s.l. after 12 km it passes through the village of Mutso. From Mutso, the road goes along Adaki Gorge to the village of Ardoti. The route then passes the turns for Trails KHAKHABO–LEBAISKIRI 1.1 and 6.1. From there, the trail goes 7.2 southward, passing the village of Andaki The main road connecting trail (west- and the site of an ancient Archilo settle- ward); it goes from the village of Khakha- ment (1,800 m). It covers 6 km along roll- bo to Lebaiskiri. The trail starts in Kha- ing plains, and there are plenty of good khabo at 2,050 m a.s.l. and goes toward places to set up camp. At aheight of about Datvisjvari Pass. At Lebaiskiri, it joins 2,100 m, at the confluence of two -riv the main road. The trail passes through some beautiful and scenic flower-covered ers, the trail goes southward, reaching a meadows. height of 2,700 m, crosses the Borola Riv- er, turns westward and goes southward to Distance: 8 km. Difficult the environs of Andaki Pass at a height of Length: 4-5 hrs 2,700 m. From there, after several km, the path joins Trail 3 (Datvisjvari Pass-Borba- Max. height: 2,500 m lo) and goes over to Patara Borbalo Pass. Min. height: 1,800 m

65 USEFUL TELEPHONE SERVICE Most family hotels/guesthouses provide 8 INFORMATION long-distance telephony through mo- bile network operators such as Magti- Official days off and holidays com, Geocell and Mobytel; however the New Year’s Day (January 1, 2) Pshav-Khevsureti area is not completely covered by these companies. It is best to Orthodox Christmas (January 7) purchase a SIM card prior to your trip to Orthodox Epiphany/Baptism (January 19) Pshav-Khevsureti in Tbilisi. Mother’s Day (March 3) Women’s Day (March 8) REGION’S POLICE National Unity Day (April 9) Dusheti town police service: 112 Orthodox Easter (varies, March-April-May) PETROL FILLING STATIONS Orthodox Easter Monday Dusheti Town – Wissol, Gulf Victory against Fascism Day (9 May) Tianeti township – Wissol St. Andrew’s the First-called Day (12 May) Misaktsieli village – Lukoil Independence Day (26 May) Mariamoba, Assumption of the Virgin WATER Mary (28 August) Tap water is safe in most places. Bottled 8 CHIRDILI MEADOW–CHIRDILI– Svetitskhovloba – celebration of the first carbonated and still mineral waters can be UKANAKHO–LIPODA– Christian church in Georgia, Svetitskhove- purchased in shops and/or guesthouses. UBANI–CHIRDILI MEADOW li Cathedral (14 October) GROCERY STORES (ROUND ROUTE) Giorgoba, ’s Day (23 Novem- ber) When travelling in Khevsureti, please Distance: 15 km. Above average difficulty bring food and snacks with you. Fresh, BANKS/ATMS ecologically safe products may be pur- Length: 6-7 hrs on foot Purchases and other business transac- chased at the local market in Dusheti, Max. height: 2,000 m tions in Pshav-Khevsureti are made in however. Small convenience stores can be Georgia’s national currency, the lari. The found in Magharoskari. Barisakho, Korsha The trail starts in the Chirdili village mead- region lacks currency exchange points and and Shatili. ow, passes the frontier post, wherefrom ATMs. The use of credit cards is not pos- after 400 meters, the road forks. The left sible. As such, please bring hard currency dirt road leads to the village of Chird- with you when travelling to the region. ilshiadi, and the right one runs along the Chirdili River, eventually reaching the vil- THE NEAREST BANK SERVICE lage of Buchukurta after a distance of 3.5 Liberty Bank, ATM; address: Town of Du- km. From there, the road goes along the sheti, 56 Rustaveli St.; Tianeti township, 1 AGENCY OF PROTECTED AREAS slope up to the village of Ukanakho (1,730 Rustaveli St. m a.s.l). From Ukanakho, a path leads to Bank of Georgia, ATM: Town of Dusheti, Tel.: +995 577907272; the village of Lipoda, which is located un- 46 Rustaveli St.; Tianeti township, 4 Rus- +995 322720388, *8888 der the southern slope of the Chiukhebi taveli St. Facebook: Agency of Protected Areas Mountains, at which point a steep trail Bank of Georgia, Express Service Center: Contact information: +995 577 64 04 80 descends to the village of Ubani. From Town of Dusheti, Central Department Ubani, the route leads back to Chirdili. Store. [email protected]

66 67 VAZHA-PSHAVELA HOUSE-MUSEUM 19th centuries: Khevsur female and male ARABULI ART HOUSE attire, household implements and arms, Address: village of Chargali, Pshavi furniture, copper ware, relevant docu- Address: Chirdili village, Contact person: (+995 55) 12 75 27; Lela mentary materials and paintings by Shota Khevsureti Razikashvili; [email protected] Arabuli. Contact person(s): Legal status: Legal Entity of Public Law Working hours: 11:00-16:00, every day. Berdia Arabuli (LEPL) since 2008 (Ministry of Culture and +995 59562 63 77 Protection of Monuments of Georgia) Nino Arabuli: +995 56898 01 04, +995 55526 33 68 The house-museum contains memori- al articles associated with the life and [email protected], work of the well-known Georgian writer www.facebook.com/ArabuliArtHouse Vazha-Pshavela (1861-1915). The ethno- Local Tourism Agency SHATILI TOUR of- graphic materials in the museum date The main functions of Arabuli Art House fers eco and cycling, trekking and cultural back to the 19th century and the early 20th as a cultural center and hotel are re- tours in Pshav-Khevsureti and in neigh- century. The museum also has a collection search, study, preservation and develop- boring areas. of the poet’s publications, photos, etc. ment of Khevsureti’s ethnological, intan- gible cultural heritage and to help visitors Telephone: and the general public familiarize them- +995 551 943446, +995 598 196569 selves with that heritage. The Arabuli Art [email protected] House also has workshops. www.shatilitour.ge

SOUVENIRS

The most popular souvenirs are hand- made goods (knitted socks, shawls, - car pets, paintings, and earthenware), which can be purchased from families and in lo- cal workshops.

WORKSHOP KHVARAMZE www.khvaramze.ge Dusheti Town, Administrative Center of the Region

KORSHA MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND ETHNOGRAPHY (a division of PHARMACIES Vazha-Pshavela House-Museum) Since no large pharmacies and properly Address: v. Korsha, Barisakho operating medical centers are available in Telephone: +995 95 503 134 Shota Arabuli the region, please bring necessary medi- cines with you when travelling in the re- The museum maintains ethnographic ma- gion. Village hospitals operate in populat- terial reflecting the way of life of the th18 - ed administrative units.

68 69 ARAGVI ADVENTURE CENTER LTD.

If you want to go rafting or cycling, we highly recommend that you visit the Aragvi Adventure Center, located in the village of Tvavlivi, 70 km from Tbilisi. Aragvi Adven- ture Center rents bikes, tents and sleeping bags. It also offers guides and instructors and recommendations for campsites.

Address: Tvalivi village, Pshavi Contact person: Soso Mekvevrishvili

Telephone: BIOFARM MTIS PRODUKTEBI +995 555 29 82 97, +995 597 29 82 97 (Mountain Products)

[email protected], Vakisopeli, Ukana Pshavi (at the turn to Ortskali village – 19 km distance) [email protected] Contact person: www.adventure-center.ge, Nodar Tokhosashvili Address: Bazaleti Lake, Dusheti Municipality Facebook: Aragvi Adventure Center Telephone: +995 598 58 57 33 Contact person: David Luka Kapiashvili Telephone: +995 599 61 62 30 www.facebook.com/davidluka.kapiashvili

ETHNO-TOURISM COMPLEX OKROS AKVANI (Golden Cradle)

Before going to Khevsureti, we recom- mend paying a visit to the Ethno-Tourism Complex, Okros Akvani, of David Luka Ka- piashvili. The recreational area arranged in Khevsur-Scottish style with skyscraper towers and original architecture prom- ise a pleasant pastime. You will feel the highland soul, Pshav-Khevsur hospitality and traditions. If you are lucky, you might even be able to take part in local folk fes- tivals that are frequently celebrated in Pshav-Khevsureti.

70 71 KHEVSURETI concurrently. A scenic view opens up from the balconies. The host has extensive ex- KORSHA perience receiving guests. Address: v. Korsha, Barisakho, Khevsureti

Contact person(s): Mamuka Arabuli, Shota Arabuli

Telephone(s): +995 599 74 11 99, +995 595 50 31 34

In a yard near the main road, this fami- ly hotel offers 7 bedrooms, a living room and a camping area. There is another house nearby in which the host family GUESTHOUSE lives. The hotel is decorated with wood- Address: Kvemo Shatili, Khevsureti en ornamental patterns; visitors may see Contact person: Nana Gogochuri and buy locally-made souvenirs and other Telephone: +995 599 99 20 25 handcrafted goods. The house has a kitch- en, a living room, bathroom and toilet A cottage located 20 m from the main room. The hotel can host up to 18 visitors road, near the river, in a green yard, from where the Shatili towers on the opposite FAMILY HOTELS/GUESTHOUSES GUESTHOUSE river bank can be seen. The house offers Address: three rooms with basic services. The host PSHAVI v. Chargali, Pshavi can also arrange sightseeing tours for her guests. The house has an anteroom, a liv- HOTEL PSHAVI Contact person: ing room, two bedrooms and can host 12 Address: Melano Mchedluri visitors. A kitchen, bathroom and toilet v. Magharoskari, Pshavi Telephone: +995 599 15 22 41 are in a separate building located in the Contact person: The house offers three rooms with basic yard. Beso Tsotskolauri services. Telephone: +995 599 18 88 83, +995 55 78 52 75 GUESTHOUSE GUESTHOUSE This hotel offers excellent accommo- Address: Address: Kvemo Shatili, Khevsureti dations for both groups and individual v. Chargali, Pshavi Contact person: Irma Gigauri tourists. Visitors are offered comfortable rooms with hot water, cable TV, Internet Contact person: Telephone: +995 595 50 36 22 and three meals a day. The hotel has a Tamriko Zurabashvili veranda with a scenic view, a pool, a bil- Telephone: +995 598 37 47 31 The house offers three rooms with basic liard table and table tennis; the host can services. It is located in Shatili near the riv- also arrange trips to Shatili and Gudani, as The house offers three rooms with basic er bank. You can reach the guesthouse by well as rafting and horse riding excursions services. The host can also arrange sight- crossing a bridge. It has a small yard with from the hotel. seeing tours for her guests. beehives. It also has a small lobby. Visitors

72 73 may make use of three bedrooms, the host is a local doctor and stays in Shati- GUESTHOUSE windows of which face the open space of li year round. The house also has a large Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti an annex. The annex is also used as a din- backyard. Contact person: Mzia Tsiklauri ing room. In the back part of the building, Telephone: +995 599 80 73 80 there is a bathroom and toilet. In the small fenced yard of the house there is a corner where family handicraft GUESTHOUSE goods are exhibited. The house has two Address: Kvemo Shatili, Khevsureti stories with 5 bedrooms for 11 guests, a Contact person: Zhuzhuna Chincharauli sitting room and a dining room and kitch- en. It has two bathrooms. Telephone: +995 599 20 32 08 GUESTHOUSE A cottage located 30 m from the main Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti road, from which the Shatili towers on the Contact person: Sopho Chincharauli opposite river bank can be seen. The yard Telephone: +995 596 71 97 99 can be used for campfires and camping. GUESTHOUSE 12 visitors may make use of 4 rooms with A two-story house surrounded by a low Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti basic services, including a bathroom and fence and a small stone-paved yard. The Contact person: Vazha Chincharauli ground floor is partially underground. 10 toilet. The kitchen is in the backyard. Telephone: +995 595 50 36 57 visitors may make use of three bedrooms, a dining room and sittingroom. The balco- Visible from the roadside, this house has ny has a view of the river. a small fenced yard and small balconies GUESTHOUSE in the back. The building has two stories Address: Kvemo Shatili, Khevsureti with a mansard roof and two bedrooms Contact person: Lela Gogochuri that can accommodate 9 guests. The Telephone: +995 594 34 47 76 ground floor has a large dining room with FAMILY HOTEL a bar and a kitchen. The host extensive Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti This house is located near the intersection experience receiving guests. In the en- of Zeda Shatili and Kveda Shatili. Visitors virons of the so-called towers he has his Contact person: may use a mansard house and a cottage own kiosk, where he rents rooms for his Dato Chincharauli (Jalabauri) in the yard, which also has a washstand guesthouse. Telephone: +995 598 12 76 14 and cabins. In the back part of the house, there is a ladder and a small balcony, A family hotel offering traditional Khevsur through which the bedroom is accessed. hospitality. The anteroom has a recre- GUESTHOUSE The house has 4 rooms and can accom- ation corner. The same floor has a shower Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti modate up to 11 visitors. 8 visitors can be GUESTHOUSE room and toilet. There are bedrooms on accommodated in 2 separate rooms (al- Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Mzia Chincharauli the second and third floors. Each floor has though the cottage has 3 bedrooms). Contact person: Mikheil Chincharauli Telephone: +995 595 51 84 52 two bedrooms. The hotel is able to host up to 16 guests. The third floor has a bal- Telephone: +995 595 50 37 98 The house has a small yard seen from the cony facing the river. The hotel has tradi- This two story house has 4 rooms, a living roadside. It has 4 bedrooms that can ac- tional windows similar to those found in room and a dining room decorated with commodate up to 14 people. The host has a fortress. traditional ornaments and a fireplace. The extensive experience receiving guests.

74 75 a long balcony with a scenic view. It has 5 rooms that can host up to 14 guests. A corner with exhibits of traditional at- tire and decorations is arranged on the ground floor. The same floor has a toilet and bathroom. The host is experienced in receiving guests, has his own local prod- ucts and a has a diner in the upper side of Gudani.

GUESTHOUSE Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti JUTA HOTEL “JUTA” Contact person: Shorena Chincharauli Address: v. Juta, Stepantsminda CAMPING “ZETA” Telephone: +995 598 37 03 17 Contact person: Nanuli Arabuli Address: v. Juta, Stepantsminda This house is located in the environs of Phone: +995 595 45 55 58 Contact person: Anano Arabuli old towers and is a traditional Khevsur www.facebook.com/pages/JUTA-HOUSE Phone: +995 577 50 10 57 three-storied tower. All three floors have www.zeta.ge bedrooms, 2 on each floor and can host Hotel "Juta" offers 9 rooms total.It has 7 www.facebook.com/zetacamping up to 12 guests. The ground floor has two double rooms and 2 triple rooms. The ho- toilets and bathrooms. The third floor also Camping “Zeta” is located at 2,300 m a.s.l, tel can also provide additional beds. has balconies facing the river. A kitchen is at the foot of Chaukhi rocky massif. It is in the backyard. GUESTHOUSE located 200 km from Tbilis. Here visitors Address: v. Roshka, Khevsureti can rent a cottage for 15 persons, tents Contact person: Shota Tsiklauri for 25 persons and a GEO-SPHERE for 16 Telephone: +995 599 39 97 89 persons. The camping area is equipped with the necessary facilities. It also has This house is located at the highest part a café. “Zeta” offers trekking, mountain of the village of Roshka and is very close climbing, horseback riding and adventure to the tourist route. The house has two tours. The tourist season is June-October. storeis and a balcony, from which a sce- nic view of the village opens. A tradition- HOTEL “MEKHUTE SEZONI” (Fifth Season) al corner is arranged on the balcony. The GUESTHOUSE Address: v. Juta, Stepantsminda GUESTHOUSE ground floor has a large dining room and Address: v. Juta, Stepantsminda Contact person: Gela Arabuli Address: v. Gudani, Khevsureti kitchen. The second floor has 4 bedrooms Phone: +995 555 01 15 15 Contact person: Iago Arabuli Contact person: Dzila Chincharauli for 13 guests and a living room. A building www.facebook.com/fifth.season.juta Phone: +995 599 53 32 39 Telephone: +995 593 30 11 70 in the yard has a bathroom and a toilet with a washstand. This guesthouse / B&B. Can host up to 10 The hotel can accommodate 20 persons. The house is near the marked tourist people. It also has a cafe. route. It is traditionally decorated and has

76 77 BOOKING LEGEND

Family hotel/guesthouses can be booked directly by contacting the host or through these organizations:

Local tourist agency SHATILI TOUR www.shatilitour.ge /+995 551 943446; +995 598 196569

Biological Farming Association ELKANA +995322536487 / [email protected]

Ecological Tourism Development Center +995 599 275010 / [email protected]

PRICES

The overnight stay rate at a hotel/guest- house varies between GEL 25-65 per per- son, including breakfast. Every host family cooks lunch, makes sack lunches for pic- nics, and suppers upon request.

CATERING

Address: Kvemo Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Irma Gigauri Telephone: +995 595503622

The host of the house across a bridge has a shop and café in a small fenced yard.

Address: Kvemo Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Nana Gogochuri Telephone: +995 599992025

A cottage located near the river bed, op- posite the Shatili Towers. Food can be or- dered here.

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