The Answer Man Amid a Fashion System in Disarray, Azzedine Alaïa Remains a Beacon of Independent Thinking
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Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fall’s Bold MAR And Beautiful 2016 The season takes No. 1 shape: Top notes from New York, London and Milan. Feature, p. 36 After Burn Post-Oscar parties and the red-carpet Report Card. Eye, p. 20 The Word From Mrs. B Joan Burstein riffs on fashion, retail and life after Browns. Agenda, p. 18 The Answer Man Amid a fashion system in disarray, Azzedine Alaïa remains a beacon of independent thinking. US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 PRO-CONTOUR BE YOUR OWN PRO AT INFALLIBLE INFALLIBLEPRO.COM PERFECTLY SCULPTED CONTOURS IN 30 SECONDS THE NEW PRO LOOK OF CONTOUR GO PRO WITH OUR 1ST SCULPTING PALETTE. THE SPECIALLY DESIGNED PRO-CONTOUR BRUSH MAKES IT EASY. THE BLENDABLE HIGHLIGHT AND CONTOUR DUO INSTANTLY CREATES LIGHT AND SHADOW FOR A BEAUTIFULLY DEFINED FACE ALL DAY. BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.™ NEW Barbara Palvin TRY ON THE INFALLIBLE LOOKS INSTANTLY. DOWNLOAD THE MAKEUP GENIUS APP. ©2016 L’Oréal USA, Inc. Contents Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF ADVERTISING Pete Born INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell Bridget Foley BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh EXECUTIVE EDITOR AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen James Fallon LUXURY DIRECTOR EDITOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Miles Socha EXECUTIVE EDITOR, EUROPE Shannon Fitzgerald CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Robb Rice Rachael DeSantis GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR Tina Schissel Nick Mrozowski REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES CREATIVE DIRECTOR WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 John B. Fairchild EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri 1927 — 2015 +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera +39-02-722-33603 MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright MANAGING EDITOR, OPERATIONS Diana Benbasset +33-1-44-51-07-611 DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood +33-240-31-6541 DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles TEXTILES & TRADE CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer SENIOR EDITOR, FINANCIAL Vicki M. Young DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani AUDIENCE MARKETING BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina VICE PRESIDENT Ellen Fairbanks Dealy ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR DIRECTOR FINANCE, PLANNING Sean McDermott SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton AND OPERATIONS BEAUTY EDITOR PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal Finding the Future: Alec Ross, former innovation ACCESSORIES MARKET DIRECTOR Roxanne Robinson INSTITUTIONAL SALES FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR Mayte Allende SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi EYE EDITOR Taylor Harris SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh guru for Hillary Clinton, discusses how to think MEN’S ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri PRODUCTION about what’s to come. FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao Agenda, page 10 MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes SUMMITS & EVENTS MARKET EDITORS VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher ACCESSORIES Misty White Sidell DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso BEAUTY, FINANCE Allison Collins SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle DEPARTMENTS BEAUTY, MASS MARKET Ellen Thomas DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING 6 Social Studies READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad The best and worst in social READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore media, whom to follow. SPORTSWEAR FASHION FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR Agenda EYE Leigh Nordstrom OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT CORRESPONDENTS FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer 8 The Essentialist DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson LONDON, GENERAL Lorelei Marfil A digest of the week’s ASSIGNMENT EDITOR Quaking Under top stories. ACCESSORIES AND GENERAL Natalie Theodosi ASSIGNMENT EDITOR The Consumer LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC 20 Eye MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra Shift 12 ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION • Parties Seeing Stars: NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Vendors are considering all Tara Bonet-Black, Jay Penske All corners of Los Angeles CHAIRMAN & CEO options on how to improve Kelsi Zimmerman were aglow with mega- NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Kayana Cordwell VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne their business model and movie stars this weekend. PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar meet new challenges. The PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS • Report Card What PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault They Wore: How all the PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT REPORTER, NEWS GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene nominees fared, plus PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB SVP HUMAN RESOURCES a few more red-carpet COORDINATOR Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant Features VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson GENERAL ASSIGNMENT EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault notables. VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell Apps Away 16 VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West DESIGN DEPARTMENT As mobile technology VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen 66 Think Tank DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron VICE PRESIDENT, TECHNICAL Christina Yeoh reigns, beauty apps are PHOTOGRAPHY OPERATIONS poised to drive sales. Experience and The Fashion Dean DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand entertainment SR. DIRECTOR OF Joni Antonacci SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene supersede stuff. By 32 Azzedine Alaïa famously PRODUCTION OPERATIONS BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Oona Wally CONTROLLER Young Ko Deborah Weinswig, PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown follows his own singular path. SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGER Derek Ramsey ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Jillian Sollazzo CPA, executive PHOTO STUDIO DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko His prescription for a fashion DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus director and head PHOTO STUDIO COORDINATOR Emily Taylor DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, of global retail and The Word From system in crisis? Creativity. PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson technology at Fung Thomas Iannaccone SENIOR IT ANALYST Carl Foner 18 COPYDESK Mrs. B Business Intelligence IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber Reflections and sage COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas Ryan Ramos Centre. All Aboard: Fall’s COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, advice from a pillar of Maxine Wally TO CONTACT WWD British fashion retailing, Report Card, page 30 Odyssey Continues PREPRESS PRODUCTION EDITORIAL +1-212-256-8130 Joan Burstein. DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman ADVERTISING +1-212-256-8102 36 The first three legs of the PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin CIRCULATION +1-515-237-3650 WWD.COM ON THE COVER: Photograph by ALEXANDRE GUIRKINGER fall collections season are DIGITAL DIRECTOR Danica Lo ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 211, NO. 9 Wednesday, March 1, 2016. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, except for the fifth week in complete, yielding an array of DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER August, the second week in September, and the third and fourth weeks in December, with one additional issue in February, April, June, August, October and December, by Fairchild Media LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave., New York, NY Ryan Richmond 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. 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