The Answer Man Amid a Fashion System in Disarray, Azzedine Alaïa Remains a Beacon of Independent Thinking

Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fall’s Bold

MAR And Beautiful 2016 The season takes No. 1 shape: Top notes from New York, London and Milan. Feature, p. 36 After Burn Post-Oscar parties and the red-carpet Report Card. Eye, p. 20 The Word From Mrs. B Joan Burstein riﬀs on fashion, retail and life after Browns. Agenda, p. 18

The Answer Man Amid a fashion system in disarray, Azzedine Alaïa remains a beacon of independent thinking.

US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 PRO-CONTOUR BE YOUR OWN PRO AT INFALLIBLE INFALLIBLEPRO.COM PERFECTLY SCULPTED CONTOURS IN 30 SECONDS THE NEW PRO LOOK OF CONTOUR GO PRO WITH OUR 1ST SCULPTING PALETTE. THE SPECIALLY DESIGNED PRO-CONTOUR BRUSH MAKES IT EASY. THE BLENDABLE HIGHLIGHT AND CONTOUR DUO INSTANTLY CREATES LIGHT AND SHADOW FOR A BEAUTIFULLY DEFINED FACE ALL DAY. BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.™

NEW

Barbara Palvin

TRY ON THE INFALLIBLE LOOKS INSTANTLY. DOWNLOAD THE MAKEUP GENIUS APP.

Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF ADVERTISING Pete Born INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell Bridget Foley BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh EXECUTIVE EDITOR AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen James Fallon LUXURY DIRECTOR EDITOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Miles Socha EXECUTIVE EDITOR, EUROPE Shannon Fitzgerald CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Robb Rice Rachael DeSantis GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR Tina Schissel Nick Mrozowski REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES CREATIVE DIRECTOR WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 John B. Fairchild EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri 1927 — 2015 +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera +39-02-722-33603 MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright MANAGING EDITOR, OPERATIONS Diana Benbasset +33-1-44-51-07-611 DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood +33-240-31-6541 DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles TEXTILES & TRADE CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer SENIOR EDITOR, FINANCIAL Vicki M. Young DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani AUDIENCE MARKETING BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina VICE PRESIDENT Ellen Fairbanks Dealy ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR DIRECTOR FINANCE, PLANNING Sean McDermott SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton AND OPERATIONS BEAUTY EDITOR PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal Finding the Future: Alec Ross, former innovation ACCESSORIES MARKET DIRECTOR Roxanne Robinson INSTITUTIONAL SALES FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR Mayte Allende SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi EYE EDITOR Taylor Harris SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh guru for Hillary Clinton, discusses how to think MEN’S ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri PRODUCTION about what’s to come. FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao Agenda, page 10 MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes SUMMITS & EVENTS MARKET EDITORS VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher ACCESSORIES Misty White Sidell DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso BEAUTY, FINANCE Allison Collins SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle DEPARTMENTS BEAUTY, MASS MARKET Ellen Thomas DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING 6 Social Studies READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad The best and worst in social READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore media, whom to follow. SPORTSWEAR FASHION FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR Agenda EYE Leigh Nordstrom OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT CORRESPONDENTS FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer 8 The Essentialist DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson LONDON, GENERAL Lorelei Marfil A digest of the week’s ASSIGNMENT EDITOR Quaking Under top stories. ACCESSORIES AND GENERAL Natalie Theodosi ASSIGNMENT EDITOR The Consumer LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC 20 Eye MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra Shift 12 ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION • Parties Seeing Stars: NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Vendors are considering all Tara Bonet-Black, Jay Penske All corners of Los Angeles CHAIRMAN & CEO options on how to improve Kelsi Zimmerman were aglow with mega- NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Kayana Cordwell VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne their business model and movie stars this weekend. PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar meet new challenges. The PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS • Report Card What PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault They Wore: How all the PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT REPORTER, NEWS GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene nominees fared, plus PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB SVP HUMAN RESOURCES a few more red-carpet COORDINATOR Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant Features VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson GENERAL ASSIGNMENT EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault notables. VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell Apps Away 16 VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West DESIGN DEPARTMENT As mobile technology VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen 66 Think Tank DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron VICE PRESIDENT, TECHNICAL Christina Yeoh reigns, beauty apps are PHOTOGRAPHY OPERATIONS poised to drive sales. Experience and The Fashion Dean DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand entertainment SR. DIRECTOR OF Joni Antonacci SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene supersede stuﬀ. By 32 Azzedine Alaïa famously PRODUCTION OPERATIONS BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Oona Wally CONTROLLER Young Ko Deborah Weinswig, PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown follows his own singular path. SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGER Derek Ramsey ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Jillian Sollazzo CPA, executive PHOTO STUDIO DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko His prescription for a fashion DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus director and head

PHOTO STUDIO COORDINATOR Emily Taylor DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, of global retail and The Word From system in crisis? Creativity. PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson technology at Fung Thomas Iannaccone SENIOR IT ANALYST Carl Foner 18 COPYDESK Mrs. B Business Intelligence IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber Reﬂections and sage COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas Ryan Ramos Centre. All Aboard: Fall’s COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, advice from a pillar of Maxine Wally TO CONTACT WWD British fashion retailing, Report Card, page 30 Odyssey Continues PREPRESS PRODUCTION EDITORIAL +1-212-256-8130 Joan Burstein. DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman ADVERTISING +1-212-256-8102 36 The ﬁrst three legs of the PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin CIRCULATION +1-515-237-3650 WWD.COM ON THE COVER: Photograph by ALEXANDRE GUIRKINGER fall collections season are DIGITAL DIRECTOR Danica Lo ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 211, NO. 9 Wednesday, March 1, 2016. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, except for the fifth week in complete, yielding an array of DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER August, the second week in September, and the third and fourth weeks in December, with one additional issue in February, April, June, August, October and December, by Fairchild Media LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave., New York, NY Ryan Richmond 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich - Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent trends and directional fashion. SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Leah Kircher label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Here are top looks from New INTERNATIONAL DIGITAL EDITOR Fabiana Repaci We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave, 2nd Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail A fall look from PUBLIC RELATIONS [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com or to subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION York, London and Milan. Tommy Hilfiger. P.R. COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

Photograph by GEORGE CHINSEE WWD.COM MARCH 2016, No. 1 5 Social Studies EDITED BY KRISTEN TAUER

THE WEEK IN SOCIAL MEDIA

Best #SQUADGOALS

“A lunch with the Italian excellence in occasion “Great seeing you last night @sherylsandberg of the opening ceremony of #MFW” Team Fendi brought out its mascots — ceo and #megynkelly — glad we didn’t talk about Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi was a Pietro Beccari, creative directors Silvia Joe Biden spoke out against sexual the election!” successful lure for designers before their Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld and assault before introducing Lady Gaga’s Well, the red carpet talk is over — back to the shows. the Fendirumi. Oscar performance. election chatter.

@albertaferretti @fendi @vp @toryburch Brand Brand U.S. vice president Designer

Worst

“Aye aye #takenbyPaul” “My short strings are getting a @harryjoshhair haircut!! Spoiled!” Performance art, minus the performance, leaves much There must be a better strategy for getting more eyes Some details are kept behind the scenes for a reason. to be desired. on a post. CONGRATULATIONS

@chrissyteigen @tods @paul_smith RAG & BONE AND Model and TV host Brand Designer TOPSHOP/ TOPMAN

@nordstrom RECIPIENTS OF OUR 2016 PARTNERS IN EXCELLENCE AWARD Charlize Theron eating a box of Let’s Follow Trending @girlscouts cookies in a @Dior MASTER OF SOUND MODEL SCENE STREET STYLE gown - that deserves an #Oscars. FACEBOOK REACTIONS We’re so proud to recognize rag & bone and Topshop/Topman for their integral role Facebook users can now “react” to posts @houseofholland through a suite of emojis: Like, Love, Haha, #Finally @LeoDiCaprio #Oscars in the experience we off er our customers. They’re valuable partners, delivering Wow, Sad and Angry. quality on-trend styles our customers love, while creating great relationships to @pharrell Congratulations to the master successfully grow our business. We’re incredibly excited to honor them with this award. @MEnnioMorricone! #Oscars

#OSCARS: @jenmeyerjewelry My favorite cookies!!!!! @henribendel #tagalongs girlscouts And now we all need a secret #Oscars @ Dolby Theatre pantsuit in our closet... ? thanks, @ladygaga #Oscars @ianmckellen I’d said no openly gay actor had @elizandjames received #Oscars-that doesn’t Dear Boss, I will be late tomorrow. detract from @samsmithworld The #Oscars ran over. Thank you achievement. Congratulations to in advance for your understanding. him & all others! @michelgaubert @lineisymontero @vetements_official

Sound designer Model Brand James Gourley/REX/Shutterstock by Montero Feugère; Stéphane Gaubert by Dominique Maître; by photograph Gvasalia

6 MARCH 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Follow Us @WWD TOP 10 STORIES OF THE WEEK Quote of the Week “Finally, I get lipstick for free.” The Essentialist — Caitlyn Jenner, on her deal with MAC Cosmetics

Prime Time Spin Cycle Swing Time Coming Soon Breaking Onto Where There’s Boss Seeks In Milano At Sears China’s stock market To Wall Street: The Carpet Smoke Boss 4 roller-coaster ride looks It wasn’t a high Does Edward S. set to continue, after a Karl Lagerfeld For a designer, getting Ever since Boss is on the hunt for 1 school reunion, but it 3 Lampert have a case? volatile week that saw continued 6 onto the Oscars red 7 10 a new chief executive almost felt like one. The Sears Holdings swings Tuesday. No, the famous German carpet is like getting Jeremy Scott officer, in what could be It’s not every day you see Corp. chairman and chief The Shanghai SSE tanked 5 designer is not plotting into Fort Knox — and it seems put his first Happy an extended search. Last week, Giorgio Armani and Donatella executive officer said in his 6.4 percent on Thursday as an initial public offering one needs just as much cash as One Up, after a grim profit warning for Versace posing for photos annual letter to shareholders investors took profits on earlier — but his clothes may soon be well. The 10 actresses nominated Meal on the run- 2016 and a subsequent double- with Valentino’s Maria Grazia that there’s still hope for the gains and awaited news out of spied on the trading floor. He’s for their supporting and lead One Down digit stock fall, Hugo Boss chief Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, Revolving company. He also took time to a Group 20 meeting. Just before zeroing in on a tailored clothing performances this year all way in February executive officer Claus-Dietrich What do J.C. Penney or Prada’s Patrizio Bertelli and remind everyone that he was the financial leaders kicked off license for the U.S. market, wore big-name labels including Lahrs stepped down, apparently At Revlon 2014, his crackling Co. and Gap Inc. have in Tod’s Diego Della Valle chummily first — in his annual 2013 letter their gathering, the People’s one of several new categories Louis Vuitton, Armani Privé, Dior 9 no longer the right fit for the common? chatting away. The occasion about 2012 results — to discuss Bank of China Governor Zhou expected as his American push Haute Couture, Ralph Lauren, Pop stylings and car- German fashion house. Little, except both retailers are was unprecedented in Milan, Dangling the the changing retail landscape in Xiaochuan reiterated his view gathers steam. Givenchy, Marchesa, Calvin Klein Barclays analyst Julian 2 toon-strip meta- in turnaround mode, resorting with every major industry figure which customers are living in a that major depreciation of the Adding fuel is an injection of Collection and Gucci. Easthope said he wasn’t title of ceo McQueen’s to cost-cutting measures and attending, as Matteo Renzi hyper-connected world. yuan is unnecessary for the cash from his North American The sole exception was Rachel phors lit a match at surprised by the changing of falling back on merchandise inaugurated Fashion Week could be enough to And the changing retail foreseeable future and sought to partner, G-III Apparel Group Ltd., McAdams, who wore newcomer the guard, commenting it was Re-Scentment the sleepy house — comfort zones that worked in — a first for an Italian Prime patterns Lampert spoke about dampen fears of a currency war. which took a 19 percent stake August Getty (yes, of that family). unlikely Lahrs’ successor would woo a division head the past. Minister. The event reflected a few years ago had him now But Brexit, the refugee crisis and in Karl Lagerfeld Group BV. This Another high-profile nominee, Alexander McQueen but would the sparky be named in the next six months, In Penney’s case, it’s a matter the city’s renewed energy and from L’Oréal, Uni- noting how they’ve “spread more Japan dominated much of the dovetails from a joint venture Lady Gaga, up for Best Original 8 has returned to the unless a candidate came from slapstick eventually of pumping up its already mature the government’s increased broadly to retailers that had rest of the proceedings. The lack forged last year to market Song, which she also performed fragrance game after inside. That’s a long shot, as lever or Coty into stable of private brands with attention to — and investment previously proven to be relatively of new information regarding women’s apparel and handbags, at the ceremony, wore Brandon eight years with the launch of a combust? ¶ For fall, what is needed is what is lacking: longstanding labels like Arizona in — the fashion industry. At Revlon’s top job — immune to such shifts.” China’s economic slowdown plus men’s outerwear — under Maxwell, her costume designer, high-end perfume made from someone with the tailor-made Scott, who rejects while advancing newness the luncheon, Renzi said that But this year, Lampert also and potential government the Karl Lagerfeld Paris brand. All who also recently launched a night-blooming flowers, and ability to turn around Boss’ which is not viewed such as Collection by Michael being the first was “strange,” railed against how newer responses generated concern are positioned in the burgeoning ready-to-wear line. But being a with plans to build a stand-alone the idea of deep- flagging business in the U.S. and Strahan, introduced last fall but that “the important thing is as particularly entic- firms like Amazon.com were for some in the market. In the “affordable luxury” category and worldwide pop star and a brand fragrance house with license China, bringing it closer to its thoughts fashion, with suit separates, sport coats, that I should not be the last, that able to grow without having to subsequent days, the Shanghai tailor-made for the market. in her own right gives Gaga an partners P&G Prestige Beauty. success in Europe. ing. Former Revlon dress shirts, neckwear, belts this can become a tradition.” collect sales tax. At the same SSE seesawed, rising 1.7 percent “We believe it is one of the advantage over film actresses. The scent, which launched offered a theme of “The new Claus — that will have and accessories, and with He trumpeted the existing ceo Lorenzo Del- time, he complained about on Tuesday. most iconic designer brands As such, she comes with her at Harrods on March 1, has the to be his skill set,” said Easthope. Bonfire of the Vani- activewear launching in advance “extraordinary potential” of how old-model behemoths like “There were a host of in the world,” enthused Morris own design team and calls the rare concentration of a perfume “The aim is to try to get those pani left for personal of Father’s Day. Penney’s the industry, leveraging Italy’s Sears have an additional set of headlines coming out [of the Goldfarb, chairman, president shots when it comes to her and is priced at 350 euros, or ties, the 1497 Italian two regions back to grips again. strategies, benefiting from new manufacturing prowess. reasons without burdens, such as high minimum- G-20], but nothing substantial and chief executive officer clothes, whether she chooses $385 at current exchange, for No matter what they’ve done, revolt against sin- systems and leadership, seem Musing on the day’s wage costs. at all. The market wanted of G-III, citing an encouraging to wear Atelier Versace — like a 50-ml. spray. A lower-priced they haven’t turned business much of a hint as to be kicking in with the company conviviality, Versace said,“This Lampert would like observers something more, some decisive reception to initial spring she did when she picked up her eau de parfum will be released ful self-indulgence. around [in those regions].” reporting earnings before is fashion — to speak to one to who might come to think that his turnaround of action, real change that will deliveries to Lord & Taylor, The Golden Globe — or a longtime separately this summer, and In the interim, Bernd Hake, Scott’s set of interest, taxes, depreciation and another.” the retailer into an integrated promote growth in the real Bay and Dillard’s. collaborator who’s also trying to together the juices are expected who was Boss’ senior vice on board when amortization and comparable- Added Armani, “There are “Shop Your Way” membership economy. Another reserve “We see this as having break into the fashion scene. to generate more than $50 withered president of Europe, Middle East, store sales gains for the fourth few opportunities to spend he resigned last program is the wave of the requirement ratio cut [the potential within five years of Either way, we’re glad Gaga million at retail in the first year. Africa and India, was named a Baroque fur- quarter and 2015. time together, our job requires future. But with the company’s amount of cash banks need to being a $300 million to $400 championed the new guy. It The launch marks the start of a member of the managing board week, saying only a In Gap’s case, the brand is on evolution and revision, but when ongoing losses — most recently hold] won’t do that, so the market million business at wholesale,” wasn’t too long ago she was on new journey for McQueen, which niture, ori- responsible for sales and retail; a mission to restore its “casual, we do see each other, I see in our new ceo would be a fourth-quarter diluted EPS loss is now trading accordingly. No he said. “That’s without opening the cover of WWD for headlining has had a patchy history with Lahrs’ other responsibilities ental rugs, American, optimistic aesthetic” eyes the same thoughts, that we of $5.44 versus a loss of $1.50 a reason to be bullish on China,” stores and without opening at Lollapalooza in her pre- fragrances: In 2003 it launched will be assumed temporarily by appointed “soon.” ¶ and “rightful share” of categories are happy to have walked this year ago — whether he can turn said one trader. online components of the Monster days. Kingdom, and in 2005 it broken-down other board members. added My Queen. Both it once owned, such as knits and path, but it’s one of sacrifices “It has to be some- around the ship is debatable. Fresh economic data business.” — MARCY MEDINA There’s one more bump for mirrors that denim. The Banana Republic and hard work.” While Lampert might be out of China is unlikely to The first complete collection is were developed with YSL Boss. German press reports body…who can run division is going back to its The luncheon opened a right about the changing retail change his mind, although it to be introduced for fall retailing. Beauté under the late Lee channeled claim the company has also “classic, appropriate, expected week of strong and influential a big machine, but landscape, it won’t mean much could raise hopes for more — MILES SOCHA Alexander McQueen, but attracted the attention of BaFin, decaying cha- aesthetics” after a stab at collections, with young designers if the models upon which Sears stimulus measures. China’s were gone from shelves the country’s Federal Financial also push it forward,” trendier fashion flopped last further establishing themselves and Kmart are based are ones manufacturing by 2008. teau decadence Supervisory Authority, which year. However, unlike Penney’s and storied brands such as said one observer. whose time has already come purchasing McQueen Parfum is the first is examining last week’s profit results, recent numbers Gucci and Prada re-energized. and gone. managers index scent under creative director felt semiserious, as warning and the lowered sales Revlon is also down released by Gap suggest “This is truly a new cycle for — VICKI M. YOUNG for February Sarah Burton, who said there is and earnings guidance for 2015 did the clothes. His continuing market share losses. the country” contended Brunello a chief financial offi- came in at 49, its nothing “wishy-washy” about it. released in October, both of At their core, both Penney’s Cucinelli. “It’s Italy’s renaissance.” weakest reading The rich white floral took three mash-ups of biker which had major impacts on cer. Delpani resigned and Gap are all-American — LUISA ZARGANI since January years to develop, and is made the price of Boss shares. The babes and debu- brands. But sometimes, the as Revlon posted 2009, China’s from an unconventional mix of authority aims to verify that all DNA gets lost when trying times National Bureau ingredients that flourish at night: tantes were wild by reporting requirements were improved quar- set in. of Statistics said sambac jasmine, tuberose and common standards, met in a timely fashion, but calls — DAVID MOIN terly and full-year Tuesday. ylang-ylang. It comes in a heavy the inquiry routine. black glass bottle adorned with but tame by Scott’s financial results and — AMANDA KAISER Hugo Boss releases full-year antiqued gold feathers, a house game and truer to 2015 figures March 10. Easthope roughly a month signature. said he doesn’t expect any Antoine Delgrange, global Franco Moschi- after majority owner Stat of the Week further surprises. Revolving Door H.R. Moves brand director at P&G Prestige no’s wit. ¶ Perhaps “I think they got all the bad MacAndrews & Beauty, said the vision is to news out there,” he said. “The Top-level changes this week: Iconix Brand Group named John N. Haugh, chief executive officer, a post he’ll as- challenge the traditional luxury Scott’s a bit burned Forbes, said it would question is what the response sume on April 1, when current interim ceo Peter Cuneo transitions to executive chairman of the board. A 30-year fragrances. “Like Chanel had out on being fash- will be.” new standards of quality and explore strategic retail and brand veteran, Haugh has led Luxottica Group, Build-A-Bear Workshop Inc. and Mars Inc.…Christopher — SUSAN STONE Peterson, president of global brands at Ralph Lauren Corp., will leave the company May 31. The company said he creativity, you will see that here, ion’s constant court alternatives. Delpani will work with Stefan Larsson, president and ceo, to transition his responsibilities. The position, created last April, too.” — SAMANTHA CONTI jester. Even if that’s 6,000 said his departure is being eliminated…Tom Nolan, founder, president and ceo of Prospect Brands, has resigned. Nolan founded Number of tweets on the company in 2012 in partnership with McCarthy Capital Fund V, an Omaha-based private equity firm. Prospect the case, he still per- Twitter per second. is unrelated to that Brands is the holding company for Duck Head, Gyde and Crittenden…Haute Hippie has named Robert Feinberg formed. — JESSICA IREDALE president. The Seventh Avenue veteran has led brands including Kay Unger New York, Gillian and AJ Bari. Source: Internetlivestats.com move. — ALLISON COLLINS S.R.L./REX/Shutterstock; AGF by photograph Minister Prime Boye Tyler Jenner by Walker; H. Andrew Gaga by

8 MARCH 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Illustrations by KYLE HILTON WWD.COM MARCH 2016, No. 1 9 ‘Technology is getting cheaper than human beings.… Once you buy a before. Land was the raw material of the agricultural age. Iron robot, you never have to was the raw material of the industrial age and data is the raw pay it a salary.’ material of the information age. If you’re in retail and fashion, AGENDA Alec Ross I think two things: You’re able to get much more granular information about consumers and consumers around the Finding world than you ever were before. If you are trying to sell lots of things to lots of people, big data gives you incredibly powerful tools to do that because you’re able to pick up on trends more quickly than ever before. You’re able to pick up on very minute preferences, place to place, demographically. But by the same token, in a The Future world that is increasingly data-driven, I think there will be a Alec Ross, former innovation guru for Hillary new importance placed on creativity. There is an ever-more special place for people who are Clinton, on how to think about what’s to come. doing work that is highly creative and original. For a lot of By EVAN CLARK us who during our workday might be working in finance or law, in whatever industry, surrounded by machines. A lot of what we want outside that technologically driven workday lec Ross is using his experience with are wonderfully original products, whether it’s the food that Hillary Clinton at the State Depart- we eat or the clothes that we put on. ment to shine a light into the future. You point out that big data can reinforce old biases. Ross is now a distinguished vis- How can all this information be used to spur new ideas iting fellow at Johns Hopkins Uni- and fresh thinking? versity, but started his career as a You can’t just let the machines run on their own. Big data sixth-grade teacher in inner-city is inherently regressive. It looks at what’s already happened A Baltimore. In 2000, he cofounded and it reflects existing behaviors and biases. So if you’re in the One Economy nonprofit orga- human resources and you want to hire someone who you nization, which now serves millions of low-income people think is a good employee and one of the things that you test on four continents. is how many existing social connections they have in the His recently released book, “The Industries of the Future” company, you’re going to have a bias. (Simon & Schuster), quickly became a bestseller by taking a Themes to Watch You can lose your human judgment. It’s like a mixing board close look at emerging themes without being overtly opti- Trends explored in with a DJ where they’re constantly mixing things together. You mistic or pessimistic. have to mix the human judgment with the big data. “I wrote this to try to talk about technical content to “The Industries of What is the one thing businesses around the world nontechnical audiences without dumbing it down,” he said. the Future.” get most wrong as they plan for the future? It’s a hunt for the next Internet. Big businesses tend to be too slow to change, which is why And just as those who appreciated the importance of the HERE COME THE ROBOTS there are so many examples of start-ups and fast-moving Web 20 years ago were able to take advantage of the shift, The coming decade will see soci- companies eating the lunch of big companies, big companies Ross said there’s an opportunity for people to jump ahead eties transform as humans learn that are too wedded to a way of doing business and a single to live alongside robots. by getting smart about today’s growing themes, including mind-set. the importance of robotics and genetics, the code-ification THE FUTURE Is it a long, slow, hard decline for the established of money and the weaponization of code. OF THE HUMAN MACHINE businesses now? The next trillion-dollar industry will In many cases, they’re getting blown up pretty quickly. How does one look into the crystal ball and think about be built on our own genetic code. Look at what Uber has done to taxis and Airbnb to hotels. the future? Sure, there will continue to be taxis and hotels, but in a small Spend a couple years with your mouth closed and your THE CODE-IFICATION OF number of years each of those industries got hammered by eyes and ears open. It was interesting to transition from a MONEY, MARKETS AND TRUST young start-ups from California. In a world where change New ways to exchange informa- presidential campaign life [working to get Barack Obama tion are forcing a rewrite of the happens so fast, there’s never been a time to be able to change into the White House] to a life of government service. Transi- compact between corporation, quickly, to adapt quickly. tioning from a life of talking to a life of listening. I traveled to citizen and government. Retailers have been increasingly opening innovation dozens of countries and tested assumptions and learned a lot. labs. Can you set up shop in Silicon Valley and expect What were you doing at the State Department? THE WEAPONIZATION that magic to filter into your business? I was Hillary Clinton’s senior adviser for innovation. It was OF CODE What happened in Silicon Valley over the past 20 years is my job to focus on national security issues that involve tech- The Cold War has given way to going to become more global. There won’t be Silicon Valleys the Code War. nology. It was my team that set up the anonymous encrypted all over the world, but I think we’ve learned enough about the text messaging program in Mexico [that serves as a tip line] and DATA: THE RAW MATERIAL Silicon Valley mind-set and way of doing business that I think helped take down the leadership of some of those drug cartels. OF THE INFORMATION AGE we’re going to see those practices more broadly incorporated. You write about companies building robots to be elder Just as iron was the raw Part of this is just a function of demographic change. People caregivers in Japan. Why would a society go after such material of the industrial age, who grew up with Google and Apple and Amazon being the a technological solution instead of opening up more to data is the raw material of the hero companies, as they go from being in their 20s and 30s immigration? information age. and being in their 40s and being in charge of their businesses, They could solve their problems, lower-cost and human, I think we’re going to be seeing more of a Silicon Valley mind- THE GEOGRAPHY but in this case that would involve them changing 500 years OF FUTURE MARKETS set outside of Silicon Valley. of practice. The 21st century is a terrible time In what way is that good and bad? It seems complicated to go after such a high-tech for world leaders to be control I think there’s an openness to new ideas and youth, for solution when a human one is available. freaks. example, that there oftentimes isn’t elsewhere. I think some Technology is getting cheaper than human beings. That people can be data-driven to a point of distraction, data- is why a lot of this is happening. Once you buy a robot, you driven to a degree that is unproductive. To the extent that never have to pay it a salary. With a human, maybe not that it’s bad, it’s that we shouldn’t only do what our algorithms much of an up-front cost, you get them a computer and maybe tell us to do. business cards, but you have to pay them every two weeks. What’s the most important attribute for the chief Most people who talk about these things take either a executive officer of the future? utopian or a dystopian view. I don’t. But I do believe that the Being able to work on a 196-country chess board. If you robots of the cartoons and movies of the Seventies will be the want growth, you have to be able to reach into new markets. reality of the 2020s. The story of the past 10 years has been the growth of China. What are the opportunities ahead for companies Growth is slowing in China. We want to identify those devel- trying to sell things to consumers? oping markets that are going to be tomorrow’s markets and

Ross Photograph by Stephen Voss Stephen by Photograph Ross We’re able to get more information than we ever had they’re not going to be as big as China. ■

Illustration by KYLE FEWELL WWD.COM MARCH 2016, No. 1 11 AGENDA

Vendors Quaking Under Consumer Shift it the reset button. ability to shop a site across an ocean from one’s own home, differences from one shopping channel to another for the channel, but they’ll take their “best-selling style and use a “We as an Vendors are That seems to be the general or buying a needed item in the office from a site that provides same item, consumers don’t know if they should buy now or different textile, change a stylistic feature or go to an alter- theme these days as the seismic same-day delivery at home later that night. wait until there’s a promotion two weeks later. He also said native place for production.” industry have considering all shifts in the industry resulting Moreover, the forces behind these shifts don’t appear to there’s a trend in wear-now apparel, but retailers haven’t On top of that, brands are increasingly taking their desti- options for how from a confluence of factors — from be going away anytime soon. changed their delivery dates. nies into their own hands by shifting their businesses more created this to improve their unseasonably warm weather and a VF Corp.’s chief executive officer Eric Wiseman said last “The retailers are still shipping June and July for fall, and to a retailer rather than a wholesale model. mess and business models preference for online shopping to month when the company posted fourth-quarter results that shipping now for spring,” Wassner said. “The brands aren’t Michael Kors Holdings Ltd., is pulling back on wholesale Han overall more frugal consumer there’s “really good visibility for the first half,” and only par- providing wear-now products either. Many have to change distribution — i.e., department stores — to better control pro- reluctance for and meet new and a shift to spending on expe- tial visibility for the second half. Given that the fourth quarter their business models. One huge change is fabric. Most of motions within its own stores. Company executives at Ralph the consumer challenges. riences over “things” — are forcing retailers and vendors to just ended was “inconsistently low versus the last three or what’s out there is not seasonal, and many brands have Lauren Corp. said price increases in key international markets transform themselves. four years,” Wiseman said planning for 2016’s fourth quarter to examine their fabric choices and consider year-round have helped to mitigate the negative margin impact from to buy.” By VICKI M. YOUNG Their strategies began to emerge last week as retailers is a “leap of faith,” noting that ultimately it might not be a options. It’s a reflection of how much more casual we’ve currency fluctuations. Ralph Lauren also has begun rolling started to report fourth-quarter and year-end numbers. For great quarter but that it should be better than the one ended become.” out interactive fitting rooms by Oak Labs in its Polo stores to Gary Wassner, Hilldun Corp. example, Macy’s Inc. is rethinking its real estate offerings; Sears because of weak year-ago comparisons. J. Michael Stanley, managing director and head of Rosen- strengthen the fashion company’s omnichannel capabilities. Holdings Corp. vowed to reposition its apparel business while Gary Wassner, ceo at factoring firm Hilldun Corp., said the thal & Rosenthal Inc.’s factoring division, said, “This sort of According to Rosenthal’s Stanley, “Things are moving also focusing on e-commerce; Wal-Mart Stores Inc., which retail malaise could “continue for the rest of this year. It could anemic environment that we’re currently in could go on for very rapidly, this changing paradigm as to how consumers posted weak quarterly results, is also chasing Amazon.com; go into next year. This involves a sea change in our attitude quite some time.” buy what they like and what they don’t like. In the past it Kohl’s Corp. said it planned to close 18 stores, and Nordstrom towards buying and selling. Andrew Jassin, managing director at Jassin Consulting took a long time for things to change and now as consumers Inc. was forced to drop prices, a rare move for the company, “I’m having discussions every day with multiple vendors Group, said many brands have been thinking about distri- become more technologically savvier faster, it can be harder which also added fuel to an already promotional environment. who are confused about what’s going on. Retailers are con- bution channels other than the department stores for some for companies to catch up.” There are other issues as well, which results in the apparel fused too….We as an industry have created this consumer time now. “Off-pricers such as TJX Cos. Inc. or Saks Off 5th As for operations, the factor said brands that have their and retail sectors being at a new crossroads. There has mess and reluctance for the consumer to buy. This isn’t an are doing well — and every brand owner wants to be able own retail stores and sell to department stores could be more been a democratization of the shopping world with more economic issue, it’s not that the consumer doesn’t have the to sell them goods — because whatever price is negotiated knowledgeable about the sales data in their own stores. “That options than ever before — from mass brands to fast fashion money to buy,” he said. is the final price. There are no chargebacks or markdown way when the retailer comes back for markdown money, they to high-end designers — and often a shopper who buys, or Wassner said there’s “no direction by either the brands money requests.” can argue with them and say, ‘Our store data shows product at least compares, across all three channels. The move has or the retailers on what to buy, where to buy it and when to He said brands are essentially selling product to off-prices A selling-through and not being marked down compared with been accelerated by the growth of online shopping, with the buy it.” He explained that with so many options, and price that’s similar to what they’re selling in the department store your sales data for product A.’ It’s one way for brands to be ►

12 MARCH 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Illustration by LEONARD PENG WWD.COM MARCH 2016, No. 1 13 “In the past it took a long consumers from his firm’s facility by the back half of this year. Vendors are looking at everything to figure out how to time for things to change and improve what they do. VF’s Wiseman said his company is analyzing consumer shopping behavior in the different oper- now as consumers become ating regions to gauge where the behavior is headed over the next five to ten years.

AGENDA technologically savvier faster, it “We are looking at where they are going to live and why can be harder for companies to they are living there, the importance of omnichannel and how important is [the expectation of same or] next-day delivery,” catch up.” the ceo said. Information learned from the analysis will help J. Michael Stanley, Rosenthal & Rosenthal VF formulate its five-year strategic plan. David Fishbein, a principal at Runyon Group, a real estate firm based in Los Angeles and New York, has seen a change very in tune with analyzing their own sales data so they can in how some firms are determining where their stores should debate the retailers who want markdown relief.” be. Runyon is a full-service firm helping clients find the right He said that brands can be more proactive in how they store sites, as well as owning and managing real estate proj- work with their consumer base. One example he noted is ects. Their first big development is Platform at the Hayden Rebecca Minkoff, which has been experimenting with tech- Tract in Culver City, set to open later this month. nology and testing other ideas. Platform, a development in the arty community that was Minkoff has used shoppable digital storefronts, as well as once home to automobile dealerships, will have as part of included oversize screens in her stores that allow consumers its tenant-mix lifestyle specialty apparel retailer Curve; to browse merchandise and request certain sizes for trying British home designer Tom Dixon opening his first U.S. on in fitting rooms. Last month at New York Fashion Week, lifestyle flagship; Soulcycle, and fashion brand Velvet by the designer reserved space at her spring runway show for Graham & Spencer. 150 of her top consumers. Some pieces shown are currently According to Fishbein, “What’s most interesting in the available in the stores, helping to spark the whole show-now- last three or four years is that the specialty merchants and buy-now-wear-now debate that has dominated the fashion designers have been going to high streets and unique areas discussion in New York, London, Milan and Paris. such as NoLIta in New York or Abbot Kinney in Venice, Calif. Stuart Goldblatt, president and chief operating officer of We’re starting to see brands now becoming more interested Bill Blass, spent 35 years as an executive at Macy’s, most in the idea of becoming part of a larger mixed-use vision, Women’s recently as executive vice president of merchandising, private seeing the value of one master curator bringing the pieces brands, before joining Blass to re-launch the brand. While together, signing a lease and then not having to see that vision department stores will play a key role for the brand, it’s also shift for the next few years.” He explained that when brands at online sites such as Orchard Mile, Spring and soon Lyst. lease spaces in an area comprising multiple landlords, there’s Collections Goldblatt said each one was chosen because of the mix of a greater risk that one or more landlords can easily upend “neighbors and friends” on the respective site. the retail matrix that was initially attractive by changing the Jack Gross, ceo of One Jeanswear, a sportswear resource tenancies. ■ and one of the licensees for the Jessica Simpson and Justin THE RUNWAYS · THE ROUNDUPS Timberlake brands, said, “Stores have been scaling back on inventory and we want to be able to chase opportunities. 1 · THE REVIEWS · We’ve been focusing internally on the online presence of Rebecca Minkoff includes a brand as it relates to the retail partner’s site. We’re also technology to enhance the Issue: April 13 / Close: March 30 / Materials: April 4 creating an aggressive speed-to-market team, which has consumer shopping become more important as retailers are holding back their experience in her stores. receives to turn faster. This will allow us to get back into the retailer in quick time rather than [us] holding large amounts 2 of inventory. It’s less expensive for me to chase opportunities An area once home to auto and air the merchandise in than to hold inventory and then dealerships, lifestyle center have to close out the excess.” Platform now attracts the Gross said he also will be to ship retail orders directly to creative community.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] 14 MARCH 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM But his vision isn’t apps replacing humans. “In followed by Perfect Corp. teaming with Elizabeth there products from brands and retailers are particular, we have seen beauty apps be most Arden to feature a comprehensive assortment of APP SNAPSHOT recommended that would complement the user’s effectively used by beauty advisers to educate Arden’s skincare-infused color cosmetics within skin tones. consumers on what is possible and to explore the its virtual makeover interface, with the option for What will it take to move the needle on beauty best product for each person during the purchas- direct purchase from Arden. app usage and find ways to monetize the technol- Apps Away ing process.” While in some cases—more likely “The app simplifies product discovery and pro- ogy? Among the features Kline sees as must-haves AGENDA in the mass market, apps are replacing beauty vides both an entirely new and existing customer for apps are barcodes to scan products in stores, As mobile technology reigns, beauty advisers. “But by far the impact of beauty apps base with unprecedented access to the Elizabeth 180% everything in one site from prices and coupons to has been to augment and empower advisers to Arden portfolio,” said JuE Wong, president, Eliza- The increase in brand ingredients and a shopping function. apps are poised to drive sales. give more personalized choices to consumers,” beth Arden Brand. “Additionally, it will provide the Indeed, consumers are turning to technology By FAYE BROOKMAN he said. brand with millions of real-time consumer insights awareness for shades as a cost-saving measure, with nearly three in Kline’s Alexandre agreed based on her compa- as we analyze product popularity and purchase five (58 percent) interested in mobile apps that ny’s research. “I think for the time being, in-store funnel to cater to and customize the personal featured in ModiFace provide beauty product offers to be redeemed beauty consultants are still necessary as consum- needs of our consumers.” apps, according to the in-store, said Mintel. Coupon redemption is pop- ers get accustomed to the idea of using technology Alice Chang, ceo of Perfect Corp., provided ular among beauty retail shoppers as nearly half as their own personal beauty consultant,” she numbers showing the YouCam Makeup app company. (47 percent) have turned in coupons using their hances are greater this year said. But as the nation’s demographics change achieved 100 million downloads just less than smartphone or tablet when purchasing products that when a woman is and a generation weaned on apps emerges, the 18 months after its launch. “Trends are pointing 250% The increase in social engagement. in-store or online. Further, 54 percent of beauty glued to her phone she role of in-store consultants could morph into toward spectacular growth in 2016, as we continue retail shoppers are interested in apps that allow might be on a beauty app. something new. “I think that beauty consultants to improve our apps’ features, content and user them to compare prices. Although there are a myr- will need to start incorporating more technology experience. Perfect Corp. is committed to remain Just good old plain fun needs to be injected into iad of brands on the mar- into their consultations if they want to keep up a pioneer and leader and help drive innovation in apps, too. Bridget Dolan, vice president of Sepho- ket, usage for the cosmet- with the competition of apps. Tools to scan the the beauty industry.” ra’s Innovation Lab sees a future in edutainment Cics category has lagged. face to recommend products will likely be the Augmented reality, said the experts at Kline, — a mash-up of education and entertainment. That’s about to change, future,” Alexandre said. allows consumers who used to have to go into 31% Sephora has been at the forefront of digital inno- begging the question: Could apps supplant beauty A new NYX store in Willowbrook Mall in Wayne, stores to try on cosmetics or seek the knowledge Sales increase with vation such as a contouring app where people can advisers? N.J., shows that theory in action. The store fuses of salespeople, the chance to simulate trial without apply products to an uploaded selfie. Next up: Beauty apps are poised to make a much bigger technology with touch. At the center of the store leaving home. But augmented reality, especially in-store virtual mirrors. Sephora will launch an interactive game—a tactic impact on the cosmetics business this year, accord- is an interactive makeup station with NYX tutori- as Wi-Fi is added to stores, has brick-and-mortar that has been a winner in the app world. ing to a recent Kline & Co. study, “Going Digital: als. Shoppers can scan product barcodes and get capabilities as well. Although the jury is out on how and when apps Who’s Who in the World of Beauty Apps.” That detailed product information including price and Plum Perfect is another app where Kline sees can turn profits, Karen Doskow, director for the explosion should buoy the bottom line. Experts how to achieve a look. Maria Fesler, NYX senior great potential for beauty manufacturers. It was 47% 54% Consumer Products practice of Kline, said the said that within beauty apps, the sales are small. vice president of operations, said customers in that launched in 2012 to reduce the frustration over of shoppers have of beauty retail real benefit is the power to build relationships. But the real payoff is the impact they have as far particular store seek out store assistance to assist the overwhelming color choices. The idea is to used a smartphone shoppers are “A brand’s key differentiator can be investment as assisting overall sales either by boosting brand with technology or find recommended products. offer a personalized approach without the help or tablet to turn in interested in price in beauty apps. They establish a dialogue with awareness, social engagement or direct assistance of an in-store expert. The app scans a user’s face coupons. comparison apps. consumers and build loyalty,” she said. “And it is at retail. That total is estimated to represent 40 to o where is the app action? and analyzes it to reveal a Color Signature. From certainly a path to purchase.” ■ 50 percent of a parent brand’s sales. To comprehend the types of There are numerous beauty apps from brands, apps available, Kline researched third parties and retailers. But Kline found a usage 65 apps that have beauty as the gap, suggesting there is huge untapped potential. primary focus. They divided them Kline saw that consumers spent 85 percent of Sinto forms: in addition to brand or NEWSMAKER FORUM their mobile time on apps, with the average user company and retailer options, four downloading more than eight per month. But the other general classifications are assessment apps, analysts noticed beauty was not where people beauty on demand, community/educational/inspi- were spending a great deal of time. rational and virtual makeovers. Kline scrutinized Make no mistake; apps are already an integral and cataloged 23 beauty apps that represent some part of any beauty campaign, especially for of the best. FEATURING fledgling brands without big advertising dollars. The company sees a great deal of opportunities “We saw that leveraging social media was one of in virtual makeovers, such as those developed by the most successful factors in the emergence of the rapidly growing ModiFace. Kees Kruythoff independent brands,” explained Kelly Alexandre, According to ModiFace’s Aarabi, more than 50 President, NA an analyst at Kline. beauty companies are embracing augmented real- Experts predict that 2016 could be the year of ity via mobile app or in stores. Most recently, Mod- the beauty app. Mintel found 45 percent of beauty iFace announced additional uses of augmented consumers prefer to search product information reality, such as an antiaging mirror, in partnership Tamara Rogers on mobile devices rather than ask for help from with Allergan as well as collaboration with L’Oréal Executive Vice President a sales associate. That prompts the question of Color Matrix. This app, called the Matrix Color of Personal Care, USA whether more dollars should be rerouted into Lounge, simulates an application to show users technology rather than in-store support. how 10 hair effects would look. “Smartphones and tablets are playing an “The technology has only scratched the service UNILEVER’S increasingly pivotal role in the beauty retail expe- and is expected to balloon in 2016,” promised Moderated by rience. Brands should assume that their audience Aarabi. “When done well, augmented reality is Jill Scalamandre, SVP, philosophy has a connected device at their fingertips at all very effective,” he said. With a larger client base and CMO, Coty Skincare, times and should look to leverage behavioral under its belt, ModiFace now has numbers to put research in order to better understand when behind claims. Brand awareness of shades fea- POWER PLAY Coty Inc., & CEW Chairwoman and how consumers are using these devices,” tured rose 180 percent. Social engagement soars said Mintel’s senior research analyst of retail and 250 percent because people like to share their apparel Diana Smith. “The beauty category is ripe images. In stores, virtual mirrors push sales up for an explosion of technology-driven innovation.” 31 percent. “In retail, a 1 percent gain is great, 31 TUESDAY, MARCH 29TH Perhaps the source with the best vantage point percent is game changing,” said Aarabi. THE UNION LEAGUE CLUB, NYC An inside perspective on Unilever’s plans for to answer the apps-versus-live-service question is Also offering virtual makeovers is Perfect Dr. Parham Aarabi, founder and chief executive Corp.’s YouCam, which Alexandre believes is future innovation and growth, and how they’re officer of ModiFace, a developer of augmented positioned to attract more users, especially balancing prestige skincare while premiumizing reality. “We have seen beauty apps change from young customers who want to “try before REGISTER NOW AT CEW.ORG their core mass brands. fads mostly used by teenagers to substantive and they buy.” YouCam just announced the useful tools used by consumers before, during, first virtual showroom in conjunction and after purchasing beauty products,” he said. with Ardell’s false eyelashes. That was

16 MARCH 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Illustration by MATTHEW BILLINGTON WWD.COM MARCH 2016, No. 1 17 oan Burstein, who turned 90 last week, opened Browns, the luxury You gambled on young fashion students, putting their graduate collections in your multibrand retailer in 1970 with her late husband, Sidney, and their windows. What were some of the biggest risks son, Simon. A fashion retail pioneer, she made her name launching you took? The Word My God, every season was a risk and I remem- and nurturing designers and labels including John Galliano, Alex- ber lying awake at night before deliveries, before AGENDA ander McQueen, Giorgio Armani, Missoni, Prada and Donna Karan everything arrived, I would think, “Will it go? in the U.K. ¶ Last year, Farfetch.com purchased Browns with the Won’t it go? Will they like it? Won’t they like it?” J And this was continuous, even though I was the From Mrs. B aim of building the store’s online business, and using the physical one who’d bought everything. South Molton Street unit as a lab to experiment with online and off-line retail in I thought I was going to sell everything because I Reflections and sage advice from bought what I thought was right for my customer, an increasingly omnichannel world. Mrs. B, whose title is honorary chairman of right for the time. I loved it and I would be proud a pillar of British fashion retailing. Browns, talks to WWD about life, retail and the joys of retirement. to sell it. But as it was coming in, I got so nervous. So when you talk about risk, every season for me By SAMANTHA CONTI was a risk. Even up to quite recently. What was your philosophy when you started Browns? You had already had a long How do you feel about the industry’s latest career in retail, with various other fashion hot topic, the move toward showing in-season stores in London. How was Browns different? fashion? When I started, we were on our own, we really It dilutes the desire of the person who wants were. It was a wonderful time. The world was my to buy. After seeing something worn everywhere oyster, and I had the choice pickings. Nobody in early, the customer will say, “Why did I want that London had been buying from Paris, Milan, New in the first place? Everybody has got it.” There- York — no way! We were really the only multibrand fore, I think there will be a big separation among boutique at that time. A lot of people were still hav- the public, with some women always looking for ing their clothes made. I was still having my clothes something different. made. Everyone had their own little dressmaker. You spent much of your career on the Who were your first clients? Browns shop floor. Were your customers I knew what I wanted, and the customer I particularly eager for see-now, buy-now, wanted to cultivate. This was very important as wear-now fashion? far as my perception of brands was concerned. Only a small percentage of women want to get At Browns, originally, I had a very small clientele it before everybody else. But mostly, she’s not that made up of young people who were aware of what impatient, she’s waiting for me — or my buyers — to was happening with fashion on the Continent. I choose something that we know she wants to wear. wanted to latch on to that. And it was so exciting. Wonderful, really. John Now that you’re retired, how will you be Galliano with spending this fall show season? And the rest How did you approach your buy? Burstein and of the year? I could not sell to the world. I’ve always said at her 90th I have nothing to do. I’m floating. It’s nice. I’m birthday that. I could never do “ordinary” at Browns. It going to Paris for three days. I’m just going to see party. might seem stupid, but that’s what I’ve always felt — even up to the past few years. I can’t do ordinary. It always had to be quality, and I had to “I thought I was going to sell everything because I bought fall in love with it. what I thought was right for my customer, right for the You ran the store for 45 years, you also opened the first London outposts for design- time. I loved it and I would be proud to sell it.” ers such as Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. Joan Burstein

one show — Dries [Van Noten]. I do wear a lot of Dries. I love the diﬀerent fabrics, the simplicity. And yet they’re always diﬀerent. And then I’m going to see some other little designers and look at the shops, which I don’t usually do. When I was working, I didn’t have the time.

What else are you doing with your new- found freedom? Enjoying life. I have taken a house in Ibiza in July for all the family. I have two granddaughters living there. I thought, “Wouldn’t it be jolly if all of them could come!” In London, I can start going to the galleries. I’m determined to go to it all. And the theater, I love the theater. All of these pleasures, yes. I look forward to doing them. I’ll ﬁnd a spa somewhere, too. I love spas. I’ve got lots to look forward to, haven’t I, really? And reading, too. Give me a good book and you can’t talk to me.

Any advice for the still-working classes? The scene on Try and enjoy every day. Every minute has to South Molton street: be enjoyed, and instill that in your children, too, Burstein’s boutique because they wouldn’t understand it, truthfully. Joan Burstein in Brown’s in London, Brown’s boutique, 1972. Dec. 2, 1975. And if you’re going to develop habits — develop

Photograph by Marilyn Stafford by Photograph JABPromotions/WWD and Galliano by Jenkins; Burstein Tim by photograph Store good ones. ■

18 MARCH 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM MARCH 2016, No. 1 19 Alicia Vikander in Jessica Biel with Justin Louis Vuitton at the Adrien Brody at the Timberlake in Tom Ford at Governor’s Ball. Chanel party. the Vanity Fair party.

Pharrell Williams and The Oscars’ campaign season, Brett Ratner and Bret Easton Ellis Helen Lasichanh at the as it’s known, has stretched on for were in the house, as were Brie Vanity Fair party. the past several months with all Larson, Rooney Mara and Eddie iterations of Hollywood bigwigs Redmayne. “This is my annual pounding the pavement, tirelessly ritual,” Collins said. pushing their projects in anticipa- The Armani party, hosted by tion of Sunday night’s awards. Roberta Armani, is a ritual for Each year the frenzy reaches Cate Blanchett. Fellow Armani a fever pitch the night before loyalist Leonardo DiCaprio also the ceremony when everyone put it on his frenetic schedule. — designers as well as actors — The room was packed as he SAT., FEB 27 TO SUN., FEB 28 still has an equal shot and high snuck in through a back entrance hopes of winning best actor, and stood with his posse in a far Gwen Stefani in Yanina best dressed or best seller. On corner behind a giant column. An Couture with Blake Shelton Saturday night, a pair of fashion eagle-eyed Barbara Davis made at the Vanity Fair party. parties — Giorgio Armani’s Rodeo a beeline for the actor, who also Drive cocktail bash honoring fielded phone calls and posed “The Revenant” and Chanel and for a few key professional photos Charles Finch’s pre-Oscar dinner before slipping out the same back Seeing Stars All corners of Los Angeles were aglow at Madeo, drew nominees out for door as quietly as he arrived. one last media push. But the revelry continued with “This is a scrim and scrum sort Ray Liotta, Tobey Maguire, Chris- with mega-movie stars this weekend, which was of thing, it’s not formal. So I want toph Waltz, Antonio Banderas, to apologize in advance if food Lewis Hamilton, Eva Chow, Tim gets thrown at you,” said Finch, by Robbins, Naomi Campbell, Sissy bookended with events where best actor winner way of greeting Charlotte Ram- Spacek, Lauren Hutton, Maria and pling as she entered his party. He Bobby Shriver, plus a pregnant was half-joking, although things Anne Hathaway holding court Leonardo DiCaprio was at the center of the swirl. at the tiny basement-level Italian in the middle of the store. “Wow, restaurant often get quite rowdy. this party is like, major,” marveled Joan Collins, Julianne Moore, Chanel Iman — and she hadn’t yet Kristen Stewart, Diane Kruger, Lily gotten to the main event.

He started off the marathon with an Armani store Andreas on party by Collins, Julie Delpy, Anjelica Hus- Immediately following the ton, Eve Hewson, Emilia Clarke, awards ceremony on Sunday cocktail and ended it with — what else? — a late, late- Hannah Bagshawe Dakota Fanning, Oliver Stone, night, the Governor’s Ball was in Chanel with Eddie Pharrell Williams, André Balazs, about the feeding frenzy — the Redmayne at the Chanel night party packed with potential model paramours. party. Kristen Aaron Rodgers and Brie Larson in Stewart in Olivia Munn in Stella Gucci at the Cate Blanchett at Chanel at the McCartney at the Governor’s the Armani party. brand’s party. Governor’s Ball. Ball.

Lady Gaga in Dita Von Teese in Zac Brandon Maxwell Posen with the John AIDS Foundati Jones; Elton Katie Dinner by Chanel and Charles Finch pre-Oscar Boye; Tyler by party Fair photographs Vanity Armani Giorgio of party courtesy Armani cocktail Giorgio Chelsea Lauren/REX/Shutterstock; Ball by Governor’s Branch/WWD; Roberta Armani and with Taylor Kinney at designer at Elton Leonardo DiCaprio at the Vanity Fair party. John’s viewing party. the Armani Party. TYRH

Edited by TAYLOR HARRIS WWD.COM MARCH 2016, No. 1 21 ADVERTISEMENT

RECOGNIZING EXCELLENCE IN LUXURY SERVICE L’ORÉAL LUXE is proud to partner with WWD to recognize exceptional service in luxury beauty.

Laura Love and Nathalie Anne Hathaway Love in Chanel at the Chris Rock at the at the Vanity brand’s party. Governor’s Ball. Fair party.

Lewis Hamilton and Naomi Campbell at the Armani party.

“Great service starts with listening.”

“Creating Armani faces is my passion.”

Sofia Vergara at the Vanity Jimmy Napes and Sam Smith Fair party. at the Governor’s Ball.

literal kind. “I’ve been eat- Martha Hunt donned their finest ing some of the most boring and gave money to support. food for a month now, and I’m Caitlyn Jenner graciously posed gonna destroy some burgers and with fans in at least two dozen Emily Ratajkowski at chocolate cakes and some beer,” selfies, many of them taken next the Vanity Fair party. the recently slimmed-down Sam to her MAC-hosted table. “Finally,” Smith said. “You have no idea.” Jenner told some admirers, “I get Jacob Tremblay at Best supporting actress win- lipstick for free.” the Governor’s Ball. ner Alicia Vikander was thinking John gave a post-dinner per- Sheryl Crow more along the lines of alcohol. “To formance before he and Furnish and Steven celebrate I hope I can go outside scooted off to Vanity Fair’s event. Tyler at Elton to get a glass of wine,” she said. They were met by a bevy of heavy “Make a connection; get a happy client.” John’s viewing party. Not one to shy away from a dance hitters. It was people-watching floor, the ex-ballerina added, “I on steroids, from Taylor Swift and even have a short dress in front Charlize Theron and Lady Gaga to so I can bounce and dance in it, so the Jessicas (Biel and Alba) and that’s what I’m going to do.” the Lilys (Cole and Collins). Even Across town, Graydon Carter Harvey Weinstein left his own and Elton John held court at their post-party to join the fun. respective shindigs in West Hol- While the party was still in full lywood and Beverly Hills. swing at 1 a.m., some had even “We used to go around to later plans. “Hi! And bye. We’re every table, but my legs ain’t going to Madonna’s,” said Diane MEET THE HONOREE what they used to be,” said John Kruger. Jennifer Meyer and of the growing event he chairs husband Tobey Maguire uttered with husband David Furnish to something about having to “go to benefit his AIDS foundation. Ago [restaurant],” where presum- Mariah Carey, Sheryl Crow, Vince ably best actor winner DiCaprio IRAM QURESHI Vaughn, Sarah Hyland, Ashley was throwing his own model-filled Greene, Jeffrey Tambor, Nikki party. — MARCY MEDINA, KHANH T.L. GIORGIO ARMANI FACE DESIGNER Reed and Ian Somerhalder, and TRAN AND LINDZI SCHARF NORDSTROM CORAL GABLES, FL

22 MARCH 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM To learn more about careers at Giorgio Armani Beauty, go to WWW.GIORGIOARMANIBEAUTY-USA.COM/CAREERS Brie Larson Charlotte Rampling Cate Blanchett Saoirse Ronan Jennifer Lawrence

DThe hair — matted down DThe windswept hair has an DCate looks best in a DThis is a sophisticated DHer glam squad really they’re the only accessory. DProps to her colorist. This and lifeless — feels misguided ease and an effortlessness bob. This jawbone-length approach to froth that feels upped the ante. The layered pale gold is the best shade DSaoirse has always had we’ve seen on her. The in that it reminds us of how a that feels youthful, as does one frames her earrings commanding and powerful. waves convey an unfussy, an eye for fashion, but she makeup is also on point — this Midwest teen might wear her the minimal makeup. She’s nicely. The cascading The seafoam color and slight sex-kitten thing. She’s a usually favors something dress calls for a smoky eye. hair to Bible study. The droplet beaming. diamond sparklers give the floral appliqués give it woman and wants to be seen more covered up. She’s earrings also add to the a slight vintage vibe that a mermaid, slight fairytale as one. The smoky eye drilled D This is fashion-forward transitioning to a more DThis look — from the goody-two-shoes thing. and age appropriate. The we love. quality while the volume at the point home. tastefully sexy, which we smoldery makeup to the lack the shoulder adds a strong D This is very prom pretty. It uninterrupted graphic print DThe emerald baubles are like to see. She is 21 years of accessories to the vampy feels like she and her stylist is a strong statement, as are presence. We expect so a statement, old, after all. This is sinuous gown — says presenter, not chose to enlist Alessandro the sharp shoulders. She’s a much from Cate and she especially and gives off a whiff of Old nominee. It feels like she knew Michele to do her dress and muse to many a designer and didn’t disappoint. when Hollywood glam. The she had no chance of taking then her less-fashion-forward this is why. swirled sequins the trophy home so she dressed to party instead. Best actress nominees actress Best sensibilities didn’t jibe with are dreamy. DThe shoes aren’t The sheer lace bodice his very-fashion-forward great, but it could D with the trompe l’oeil corset sensibilities so they settled have been detailing is supersexy with somewhere in between. worse. It’s cookie cutter and an upscale lingerie not something that will feeling. The tiers go down as one of the are fluid and memorable dresses of cascading. Oscars history, which it could have. B+ B A Report Card Jim Smeal/BEI/Shutterstock B+ A- Larson, Blanchett and Lawrence photographs by David Fisher/REX/Shutterstock; Rampling by Broadimage/REX/Shutterstock; Ronan by by Ronan Broadimage/REX/Shutterstock; by Rampling David Fisher/REX/Shutterstock; by photographs and Lawrence Blanchett Larson,

WWD.COM MARCH 2016, No. 1 25 Best supporting actress nominees Alicia Vikander D D D D to playoff theappliqués. Belle, Ghesquière-style. to theclassicballgown. She’s modernist, uniqueapproach with hertiny frame. Thisisa corset works wonderfully against herskinandthe looking. Her glow issubtle andnatural- Oscars, not Coachella. and aplacefor it. Thisisthe a momentbutthere isatime She found theperfect shoe The paleyellow isbeautiful Bravo to herspray tanner. The half-up-bun ishaving B+ Rooney Mara D forward. Keep itcoming, style isstriking andfashion Rooney’s carved outavery specific fashion look(of the This isareal fashion girl. Gothic, somberromantic do). Herpowerful senseof Rooney. variety), whichshepairs a severely pulledback look(darklipwith beauty with anequallyspecific A

Vikander photograph by David Fisher/REX/Shutterstock; Mara and McAdams by Jim Smeal/BEI/Shutterstock; Winslet by Rob Latour/REX/Shutterstock; Jason Leigh by Stewart Cook/REX/Shutterstock C+ Kate Winslet D D her hue. some dimensionandpopto copper lowlights would add a touch more Ariel. Warm pretty butwe wishthey were fabric for afuller-figured Thisisanunfriendly Themermaidwaves are woman —thesheen adds unnecessary adds unnecessary dimension. Thisisjust frame, thiscouldread plain unflattering. That plus point. Onatinier said, thenovelty isa Catwoman bodysuit- meets-red carpet. B- Jennifer JasonLeigh D D here thatisbeautifulbutfeels more warmth, makeup-wise. and shecoulduseatouch would have worked better the-mill. Something tousled There’s apreciousness The hairfeels abitrun-of- disconnected from the actress wearing it. It’s hyperfeminine and the folds andfloral we wishshewent embellishments figure-flattering but are pretty and cooler thanthis. with something edgier. She’s B Rachel McAdams D D D when abigmovie star wears lines of thedress. earrings playnicelyoff theclean at thehairline. achieved therightlift looking too tightorsevere. She’s difference between and fluidity when shewalked. There’s a in andthedress seemedroomy The waist needsto benipped a young, relatively unknown designer, inthiscaseAugust but thetailoring isatouch off. Getty. Thisjadehueisspot-on Angelina legiseye-catching, (we couldn’t resist) andthe We love nothing more than The simpledrop diamond The hairissleekwithout just plainloose. Thatsaid, her shoulders look WWD.COM fantastic. MARCH 2016, No. 1

27 Leonardo DiCaprio Michael Fassbender Mark Rylance Sylvester Stallone

DThe Oscar winner DThis outfit is a DWhile his performance DWhile Stallone may have always plays it pretty safe. disappointment. After may have been one of the been snubbed for the Oscar, His committed fashion wearing some very flattering big winners of the night, this he definitely was winning relationship with Giorgio ensembles this award ill-fitting, dated tuxedo was sartorially. This midnight-blue Armani is a fruitful one, but season, he falls a a bomb. Saint Laurent tux was made this lacks excitement and bit flat here. especially for him by designer surprise. At the BAFTAs he Hedi Slimane and it shows. DThe strangely colored wore a sleek, midnight-blue DThe jacket looks too big teal tuxedo screams of crosshatched patterned suit and the pants are too long. a depressing Seventies DKeep up with the tanning that fit him much better. He either lost weight since wedding suit. The soft sessions and big hair, Sly. the first fitting or something It suits you. Best actor nominees actor Best shoulder and oversize went wrong along the way. DThe sleek hairstyle, slicked silhouette only make matters We’re used to seeing him in to the side with gel, is very worse, especially when paired DA bodybuilder’s physique more formfitting cuts — and old glamour, but a more with a black vest. is always a challenge, but this we miss it. contemporary cut would bring strong sloping shoulder helps us back to his hot “Titanic” minimize the bulk. The play DThe wide shawl lapel days. DThe Chopard watch is an doesn’t work with the width of dark navy with black is an elegant choice but it’s not of the tiny bow tie, creating a elegant choice and also helps enough to bring sexy back. DAlthough he has been contrasting clash of styles. An elevate the overall effort. Best supporting actor nnominees supporting actor Best losing weight recently, he oversize velvet bow tie would needs a fitted cut with strong have at least brought the retro construction to empower him. point home. And one tip: stay away from sodium. B C D A-

Matt Damon Bryan Cranston Eddie Redmayne Mark Ruffalo Tom Hardy Christian Bale

DDamon seems to be DCranston has been DThis British actor is the DHe cleans up well — much DThis fashion icon-in-the- DHis insistence on always doing a great dermatologic escalating the fashion star of the red carpet. His better than his scrappy making has a thing for a very wearing three-piece suits regimen, probably involving quotient, experimenting with chiseled looks and textured reporter look. After several well-executed three-piece might not be the best choice. lasers and effective facials. velvet and double-breasted hair only enhance his attempts to take over the red tuxedo and he can pull it off. He looks like he was stuffed His face is glowing and has styles. This silk Burberry sophisticated flair and carpet this season, he nailed The Gucci peak lapel suit has into this Dolce & Gabbana

great volume. dinner jacket is yet sartorial excellence. nberg/Invision/AP it with this Valentino navy been fit to his muscular build monochromatic outfit. hutterstock; Cranston by by Cranston hutterstock; another successful blue tuxedo. but doesn’t compromise the departure. sartorial sophistication of DSarah Burton DHis heavy mustache the house. DHe wore an of Alexander DThe narrow shawl lapel and beard make him identical Versace DThe simple McQueen clearly keeps the effort young look like a Seventies peak-lapel tuxedo construction of knows how and matches the skinny porn star. Shave. at the Golden the blazer with the to make a bow tie. The hidden DHe has achieved notch lapel helps perfectly placket of the shirt the perfect balance Globes, but this DIf he had worn time, the fit is balance the flashy tailored helps maintain the between a tough a white shirt, the much better factor of the shiny evening clean and angular lines guy and an elegant contrast in color around the fabric. The bow ensemble. of the jacket. English gentleman. The would create some shoulders tie is the perfect The angular military crew cut with separation and size to ground the and the shoulder DThe only criticism playful facial hair and much-needed shorter blazer effort. construction is that he could have aviator sunglasses depth. And the really helps to plays very well with tailored the sleeve contrast well with the sleeves are too long. slenderize him. DThe patent the sharp peak length to show an embellished waist lapel and pointy bow tie. chains and silver leather lace-up inch of the shirt cuff. chrono watch. DThe silk shoe plays well hand-tied bow tie with the blazer, DThe silver studs are small matches the contrasting lapel adding another enough to come across as and the hidden shirt placket evening touch. modern while still paying accentuates the simplicity of homage to tradition. The the look. velvet slippers are a little precious, but then again, so is he, so he can pull them off. Billy Farrell/BFA/REX/Shutterstock; Rock by A.M.P.A.S/REX/Shutterstock; Hardy by Broadimage/REX/Shutterstock; Damon by Dan Stei Damon by Broadimage/REX/Shutterstock; by Hardy A.M.P.A.S/REX/Shutterstock; by Rock Billy Farrell/BFA/REX/Shutterstock; B+ A- A David Fisher/REX/S DiCaprio by Jim Smeal/BEI/Shutterstock; by and Rylance photos Ruffalo Bale, Stallone, Redmayne, Fassbender, B+ A C+

WWD.COM MARCH 2016, No. 1 29 Chris Rock Kate Bosworth Olivia Munn Kerry Washington Charlize Theron Jared Leto

DThe Oscar host may have DThe fire-engine-red lip D What exactly is going on DKerry rarely suffers a DShe’s a drop-dead beauty, DWe are all for a runway look been making a statement in was a big mistake. The dress here? Please do not attribute misstep when it comes to and Oscar Sunday only on the red carpet, but a sense a white dinner jacket, but it already takes us to a cheesy, an entirely new face to her beauty look, and this is furthered that point. The of effortlessness is needed worked. His take on a James dated place; the red lip — plus “weight loss.” She clearly has no exception. The high pony pulled-back coif is elegant in order to make it work. This Bond classic was the blinged-out bag — only had some sort of jaw shaping and clean skin are easy and and very movie star — if you’re pajama-inspired tuxedo with well executed and add to the “Dallas” or chin implant. We just wish beautiful, and are a nice not going to go for it at the red piping is way too affected. updated with the damage. she’d owned the choice — antidote to the heavy smoky Oscars, then when? jacket’s her doc deserves credit. lids everywhere else on the Oscar notables squared- D We never thought night’s party circuit. DThe silhouette, DThe carnation as a bow off shawl Kate Bosworth could DThis dress requires D The applause stops on its own, is tie is one of the trademarks lapel. look like an aging some sort of there. This is reminiscent of stunning. of Gucci creative director Texas oil heiress or an manual. The center a Miami poolside look — a Same goes for Alessandro Michele; DThe Eighties bridesmaid but panel with the neon bathing suit with a the flame-red however, here it looks black-and-white here she is. The issue is bordering cutouts big bath towel wrapped shade and the more like a flower that a combination is clearly the neckline. The feels awkward and like around it. The brash dramatic diamond flamenco dancer would elegant and flattering to fluid, cloud blue column a plate of armor. And is yellow also seems out of pendant. All together, tuck behind her ear than a his slender frame. And the is beautiful but is the exposed under-cleavage place against the white; though? It’s too in-your- red-carpet accessory. color of the blazer allows overshadowed by this deliberate or a wardrobe a blush fabric would face sexy, like a caricature. for a very fitted silhouette explosion of feather malfunction? be better. The back Bottom line: This would have without making him look dusters. We can’t look stringiness only adds to worked if done in a more DThe velvet slipper with too skinny. In the past, the away, as much as we the bikini vibes — this is subdued color. an embroidered snake look could have veered want to. the Oscars, not South pattern adds another into Louis Armstrong Beach. misstep. territory, but on Chris the white tuxedo is cutting edge and modern — just like his comments on racism.

A- D C- C B+ FAIL

Zoe Kazan Kate Hudson Ben Affleck Taylor Swift Kevin Hart Emma Roberts

DWas her hairdresser on DThe hair is greasy but DThe new Batman seems DThe bob reads suburban DEveningwear is a DHer pale skin is envy- holiday? She should have in a good way (things we’d to be wrinkle-free — very mom, which normally works dangerous game and Hart inducing and the dusty rose put in some effort not only never thought we’d say suspicious — and he obviously with her sartorial style (e.g. lost the match with this lipstick and liquid liner are all with her beauty but the about the Oscars). The loves a blowdryer. His do is a prim, Fifties-inspired) but studded Dolce & Gabbana she needs makeup-wise. accessories as well. It looks low-maintenance energy little too coiffed; rough it up. here presents a strange attention-seeking tuxedo. like she just rolled out of of the beauty tones down The five o’clock shadow juxtaposition. Something At 5-feet 4-inches, it’s DThis is a very bed, threw on the dress the rest of the outfit and would be sexier if his hair Kirkland/Variety/REX/Shutterstock; Scott by Lawrence BEI/Shutterstock; more edgy would fit the better to opt for a ck intelligent choice. and walked out the door. A makes it less in-your-face didn’t make him look like a mood better. classic ensemble. It’s dreamy slicked back, wet-hair look sexy. poster for an Eighties hair and feminine; and a blingy statement salon. DWhat do you know? DThe structure of haunting and necklace would have D Kate is fond of the gold DThe midnight blue suit Another deep v and the jacket is well unique. Some might done the dress justice. Grecian thing. This version is one of the season’s slit-to-there! Swift worked executed and fits say the frayed polka is more successful than trends; the color is both Oscar night trends his frame properly. dots look spidery and to exhaustion, and when DThe belt with the her Golden Globes dress, very flattering for his A white shirt would therefore hit the spooky velvet rosette is but we feel like we’ve seen complexion. But let’s combined with the help elongate the note a little too on-the- beautiful. her wear this exact dress not forget he’s barrel- choker, this look is trying torso and make him nose but we think it’s before. Many times. chested — the vest of too hard to be of-the- look taller. kitschy and whimsical. Fit

the three-piece outfit moment. for a Scream Queen. accentuates that. The DThe foiled gold fabric is DA patent leather lace-up blue silk tie brings an is the right choice, and beautiful and interesting evening element that and the ballerina neckline although a Cuban heel complements the peak might not adhere to the suits her youthful ingénue lapel. status. There’s just a bit evening dress code rules, too much pouf in the DThe burnished brown it would add a couple of skirt, especially where it shoes are very cosmopolitan much-needed inches. hits the waist. and add a touch of distinction. Washington by REX/Shutterstoc; Hart by Richard Shotwell/Invision/AP; Affleck by Tyler Boye; Leto by David Fisher/REX/Shuttersto by Leto Boye; Tyler by Affleck Shotwell/Invision/AP; Richard Hart by REX/Shutterstoc; by Washington B- B+ B Matt Baron/ Swift by Hudson, Billy Farrell/BFA/REX/Shutterstock; by and Munn photographs Roberts, Theron, Kazan, Bosworth, Kate C+ D+ A-

WWD.COM MARCH 2016, No. 1 31 Azzedine Alaïa famously follows his own singular path. His prescription for a fashion system in crisis? Creativity. By MILES SOCHA FashionThe Dean

hen invited for lunch chez Azzedine Alaïa — in his vast open kitchen at a big glass table — you never know who W might show up. ¶ You can count on assorted coworkers — from the press office, ateliers and commercial department — and his gigantic St. Bernard named Didine, either snoozing on a bed in the corner snoring like a tractor, or poking his moist nose between the chairs in search of a handout. ¶ On this day arrives model Gail Elliott and her husband, Joe Coffey, whose wedding in 1997 at the height of the supermodel craze boasted brides- maids Cindy Crawford, Helena Christensen and Yasmin Le Bon — and a formfitting Alaïa gown made just for the bride. ►

00 MONTH 2015, NO.X WWD.COM Photographs by ALEXANDRE GUIRKINGER WWD.COM MARCH 2016, No. 1 33 34 MARCH 2016, No. 1 opening ofashop atBeijing’s ShinKong Placemall. down theroad inChina to follow 2014 upon his similarly grandAlaïaflagships, one plusafourth andNewYorkbuildings inLondon toestablish control in2007.)(It tookmajority Richemont’s confidenceinthebrand’s potential. the Rue deMarignan thatopenedin2013speakto mansion on flagship inan18th-century three-story shop configurations.Investments anda in staffing, about 250doors, that includesabout 80shops-in- going swimmingly. thedesignerhintsthat businessis Richemont, ofparent Financière Compagnie apolicy citing again.Whiledecliningtogiveshrugging figures, collections. the endofParis fallshowuled his forApril 3, nearly amonthafter small round year, This tables. thedesignersched- buyers, theirlaptopsopenfororder-placing at Sofia Coppola, for example —minglewithboutique Fashion Week. — Editors andtheoddcelebrity fashion flockhasfledfollowing ninedays ofParis aftermostofthe and only ahousephotographer withshowroom collection parades his models Alaïa installation. withastaggering Grand Palais Yeezyfor his fashion show andChanelfillupthe collections.” sostupid.It’sis There unsustainable. are too many overdrive. “Butanyway, therhythm ofcollections rails againstafashion system forever locked in purely industrialapproach,” says adesignerwho online andin-store. make immediately available allthecollections tions together ontherunway ayear —and twice show seasonlessmen’s andwomen’s wear collec- anavalanchestarted ofchange by to deciding Insta-everything. up lacklustersalesofready-to-wear inanage of toperk —anything collections trans-seasonal sumer-facing fashion shows, coedformatsand more today asbrandsexperiment withcon- allows himtowork withpassionandcompassion.” He’s chosensomethingthatworks forhimandthat of thesystem —he’s created asystem own. ofhis onthebody.rack andespecially “He’s notpart clothesasexceptionaling his inphotos,onthe him aunique designer,” says AlberElbaz,describ- admiration ofdesignersvariousgenerations. from which and it, hasearnedhimtherespect He’sdecades. finewithitandhe’s notbudging a.m. every day untilthewee hours. custom—fromnight before, his 9 toiling—asis says, confessinghehadslept hoursthe only two vegetables witha2013Pouilly-Fumé. guestscomplementtheirroastof his beefand she relates. online andwe justopenedastore inBaliaswell,” of slipdresses andotherbeach-y “We styles. sell of herfashion lineLittleJoe Woman, composed Linda Evangelista. him; anotherofherstruttingtherunway with showing Alaïaapictureofherselftowering over she roll flicksthrough onheriPhone, thecamera Alaïa discloses that he is now thatheis searchingAlaïa discloses for wholesaleWhile hehastrimmed accountsto “It works, why should Ichange?” Alaïasays, KanyeLet West rent Square Madison Garden “It’s notcreation anymore. becomes a This The designershrugs when toldhow Burberry Alaïa’s I-did-it- “He’s soauthentic intheway heworks, itmakes That’s rhythm formore beenhis thanthree “I have alotofwork rightnow,” thedesigner Alaïa smilesandsipsgreen teawhile therest Next she shows thediminutive designerimages from is alongtimeago,”“This Elliottcoosas

WWD.COM my-way my-way ethos stands outevenethos stands to anything. Theyareto anything. really good people. nothing, andatthe sametimetheynever say no boutique ina hôtelparticulier. It’s notgiven for quite afewpeople.There’s theRue deMarignan in your house? freedom. Iwork well withthem. They know it’s working, andtheygive mealotof business? because it’saction notright. and hediditagain.It’s notgood. You have totake Ido. We everything thing, suedhimawhile ago every- hehascopiedeverything, another Italian, house? refuse toshoot when it’s thingslike these. Althoughtypically, shoot it. nalists no, theyshould forthem,andnobody saysspecial Jour- anything. the bandage dresses. Now it’s becomeasummer Everybody hasforgotten, even Hervé with Léger Turner wore. People toldmenottosay anything. noticed adirect copy ofmy 1985 dress that Tina Cavalli, it’s nobody, incredible andjournalists, has Forright. example, seasonwithRoberto this don’tand journalists say atall,it’s anything not contrary? there are toomany atthemoment. copies people copying you? like I don’t this. mockwhat theothersdo. customers don’t buy inthestores. My rhythm is wouldn’t begrowing. Ifthere are nogood clothes, ple wouldn’t orders beplacing andourbusiness buyers andfor thepress. Itworks. Ifitdidn’t, peo- loss ofcreativity. why alotofdesignersbreak down. There ahuge is work, that’s all. It’s acouturierandstylist. between adifferent there adifference Because is would beastylist. development, fittings?ing, fabric I lookatthestores, what’s working, what’s not. to theend.Ievenbeginning control thedeliveries, from the ineverything butI’mimplicated lections, others. That’s thedifference. Idon’t doeightcol- and leave. Iwork Thetruthis, more thanallthe allthefittings.Idon’tcially justgive thedrawings nobody elseandIdoalotofthingsmyself, espe- in thestudio. Ihave there is only assistants, two that acreative orcommercial choice? Showing Fashion justafterParis Week —is copycats. yieldingtoomuchis vintage —andtoomany ofthefashion system, onthestate reflect which orders anespresso andsitsdown withWWDto olive green. odile bagsinquirky colorslike and aquamarine pavéd intiny studsandgleaming, minimalcroc- of accessories,which includezippered wallets dresses andtailoring, No, theygave usalotofpossibilities.We hired So nothingchanged sincetheinvestment No, withRichemontIhave alotofrespect. Does Richemontever interfere inyour Oh yes, it’s withthelawyers now. Andthere’s Have you saidsomethingtotheCavalli When designersappropriate ideasfrom others Are you flattered tobe copied, orthe No, that’s notthereason, notat all.Although Do you shows dosmallanddiscreet toavoid No, we don’t dobigshows. We doshows forthe Any planstochange your rhythm? Four. That’s already themaximum. Andthat’s How many doyou ayear? collections design Yes, Iwouldn’t otherwise beacouturier, I Do you like allthesesteps:sketching, drap- It’s aquestion oftime.There are very fewofus guestsfilteroutofthekitchen,Alaïa Once his While bestknown curve-enhancing for his he’s alsorampingupsales things were better “I thinkwe have to before andtoday live inourtimes. is second-rate.” You can’tsay Azzedine Alaïa

XxxxxxxxIllustration: Xxxxx Artist Name

XxxxxxxxIllustration: Xxxxx Artist Name change inlife.■ The future obscure is for me.Everything can the women, above all. until now. tofollow Itry thetimesandto follow Her silhouettehasstayedsuit. from thebeginning remainsit, steady. Chanel,for example, about a is ofahouse,when there’srials. Thestyle to astyle the ateliers. hours.Iwasbusypreparingslept two thingsfor to 7p.m. butIwork I night, until3, 4a.m.Last you start? outsoon,nextsecond perfumeis year. number-one atSaks.You ask Saks.Now can the tion, gives themaximum, jobwell. anddoeshis andeveryone well-organized, ownis hashis posi- have fired meifitdidn’t work well. Thecompany moment? Stillgrowing? own brands. notwiththeirownhouses. They’re their names, Allthegood designerswork inbig The proof? you have it’s enormousmeans.Otherwise difficult. what you recommend toyoung designers? likeI’m onhorseback, acowboy. one intheyear, that’s already good. Nobody hasnewideasevery day. Whenyou have don’t have good ideasevery day, it’s notpossible. much vintage —inallthehouses, it’s too much. We That’s why now there a lotofvintage. There’s is too months.It’s comeoutevery two can notpossible. It’s handleit. few can alifethat’s tooaccelerated. profession. Veryof oldmaidsandbachelorsinthis their children, theirhusbands. There willbealot know theytravel allthetime.They are never with live. Journalists, theytoohave You todefendthis. workload. thenpeopledon’t Because have timeto there’s handlethe notalotofdesignerswho can to replace them.Especially forbigcompanies, eral ofthemhave leftandthere aren’t hundreds season,allofasudden,sev- —andthis one ortwo cracked because ofthis. inhumane, theamountofwork today. way this andit’s became The industry almost designers. There’s nothingyou doaboutit: can overheating. Doyou agree? it willgive you ideas. ity. It’s onacomputerthat notbecause you type Butacomputerdoesn’tfantastic. speedupcreativ- andthespeedoffindinginformationme useit, is don’t know how tousethecomputer, othershelp better before andtoday have tolive inourtimes.You can’t say thingswere worse? changedhas allthis fashion forbetteror In thefuture? Ithinkday-by-day Listen, only. And how doyou seethebrandinfuture? We by researching start themate- thefabrics, Can you aboutyour talk designprocess? I’m ready at9. work Theassistants from 10a.m. work your day?What is typical Whendo You ask thepeopleofperfume.We’re can How doesyour newperfumework? Iwould notbehere.Otherwise Theywould How theAlaïacompany is doingatthe No, it’s over beingreally unless independent, key independentis Being foryou. Isthat It hasn’t comeyet, I’mrunningafterit![Laughs] yourAnd what is latestgood idea? Creativity. AndIdon’t thinkreally newideas What’s thesolution? Yes, that’s theproof. There’s alot—notjust You saidquite afew designershave already Yes, it’s asystem that’s aheavy loadforyoung Some peoplethinkthefashion system is Yes, ithaschanged andit’s alot, good. Ithinkwe live-streaming Instagram, Smartphones, — is second-rate.ThoughI is WWD.COM

MARCH 2016, No. 1

35 Be Sure to Wear ...... ﬂowers in your hair. In their homage to San Francisco, Rodarte’s Mulleavy sisters paired hair posies with a shaggy goat coat.

NEW YORK NEUTRAL WONDERS

In a season of intense textures and decorative flourish, neutral shades went every way for fall — au savage, glam, artful, chic — every way but basic. By BRIDGET FOLEY and MAYTE ALLENDE Illustration: Artist Name Artist Illustration:

Photograph by LEXIE MORELAND Two Takes on Artful Michael Kors Hed Thom Browne spun a A little Jim Jarmusch cinematic riches-to-rags (“Only Lovers Left Alive”) tale; Francisco Costa inset and a lot of natural polished stones to abstract curiosity pulsed through prints at Calvin Klein Joseph Altuzarra’s Collection (opposite). multitextured collection. Photograph by Name Lastname

BENCHED Uma Thurman (fourth from left) and Rita Ora (sixth from left) anchor Ralph & Russo’s front row.

Photographs by KYLE ERICKSEN and STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE (opposite) Extra, Extra At Michael Kors Collection (opposite), interest came in tweeds and brocade and at newcomer Sies Marjan, via well-placed ﬂoral touches.

Photographs by KYLE ERICKSEN (opposite) and ANDREA HANKS Modernist Moves Proenza Schouler showed at the Whitney (opposite). Narciso Rodriguez didn’t. Both employed artful splicing techniques.

Photographs by KYLE ERICKSEN (opposite) and RODIN BANICA Un-Plain Geometry Ralph Lauren punctuated tony daywear with graphic blanket cashmere (opposite); for evening, Vera Wang went Deco-divine.

Photographs by KYLE ERICKSEN Body Language Two approaches highlighted the feminine shape — ornate with fairy-tale embellish- ment at McQueen (opposite), and the minimal graphics and pop colors à la Gary Hume for Paul Smith.

LONDON OPPOSITES ATTRACT

Old and young, conservative and rebellious, baroque and minimalist — the extremes played out beautifully on London’s fall runways. By LAURENT FOLCHER

Photographs by GIOVANNI GIANNONI and JIMMY BAE ERDEM AOmnitet ad utas accullo- rit asperitem dolorum iniscidit et ea volecaepudis eario. Dolestiis int. Endae perferum rem ente niminulpa volor reperio molessi dolorum velector

Flower Power Saying it with ﬂowers, Christopher Kane’s lost-and- found theme found its way with a wallpaper design of faded roses, while Simone Rocha embroidered graphic and childlike blooms on ethereal pink tulle (opposite).

Photographs by GIOVANNI GIANNONI Line Streaming Burberry translated British heritage with textured tartans and busy lamé motifs ﬁtted for a rocker girl, while J.W. Anderson used his stream- lined touch to reinterpret cocktail styles (opposite).

Photographs by GIOVANNI GIANNONI and JIMMY BAE (opposite) and KUBA DABROWSKI Day by Day In a richly nuanced Prada collection, Miuccia Prada addressed “diﬀerent characteristic moments” in the real lives of women. One such moment came pretty in pink — and artful, too, in a dress inset with artwork by Christophe Chemin.

MILAN MEMORABLE MOMENTS

Dadaists, a deranged daughter and a major de Medici strolled through Milan’s fall collections. So did a fashion-forward guy named Einstein, and the genre’s most essential muses — the real women who buy clothes. By BRIDGET FOLEY

Photograph by STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE The Genius Club Ghost Story Michael Kors Hed At Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld Catherine de Medici, street A little Jim Jarmusch invoked Einstein’s recently grit, cool Brooklyn-guy (“Only Lovers Left Alive”) proven gravitational wave graphics — and Alessandro and a lot of natural theory. That’s jazzed-up Michele’s Insta-legend at curiosity pulsed through stripes to you and me. Gucci continues to grow. Joseph Altuzarra’s Better than ﬁnding cash multitextured collection. under the ﬂoorboards. Photograph by Name Lastname

BENCHED Uma Thurman (fourth from left) and Rita Ora (sixth from left) anchor Ralph & Russo’s front row.

Photographs by DAVIDE MAESTRI and KUBA DABROWSKI (opposite) Get Real Crazy Chic Clothes shouldn’t require Marco de Vincenzo a fashion manual, oﬀered channeled his Giorgio Armani, who decorative inclinations sought an antidote to into an expertly rendered fashion’s current “euphoria lineup that worked the of color.” His answer: black chic side of playful. velvet, for day and night.

Photographs by DAVIDE MAESTRI (opposite) and KUBA DABROWSKI Precision at Play Ferragamo’s Massimiliano Giornetti drew from the Dadaist school, inspired by the contrast of its rigidity and joyful spirit.

Sportif Swagger Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier delivered unfussy, polished clothes that radiated highbrow authority.

Photographs by STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE (opposite) and KUBA DABROWSKI Not That Adele Hey, Nonny, Nonny Victor Hugo’s tragic, How ’bout those sleeves? deranged daughter Adele Marni’s Consuelo haunted Antonia Marras’ Castiglioni achieved the show to intriguing eﬀect. seemingly impossible. She made obvious allusions to Renaissance-wear in a collection.

Photographs by KUBA DABROWSKI and GIOVANNI GIANNONI (opposite) Everyday Woman Donatella Versace left high evening to haute couture to focus on smart, athletic- inspired clothes for the light of day.

England Swings Veronica Etro referenced her “Nineties” schoolgirl years in London, in a collection that married tony tailoring and street attitude.

Photographs by KUBA DABROWSKI Theory of Relativity Who knew Einstein would have his fashion moment? Moschino’s Jeremy Scott Introducing a new advertising opportunity toned down the sight gags.

Business Insights Align your brand with WWD’s New Series. Where the Industry Comes for the Inside Scoop.

Executive The Future Search of Payment Issue: 03.30 Issue: 04.06 Close: 03.16 Close: 03.23 Materials: 03.21 Materials: 03.28

Evolution Security, of the In-Store Fraud & Loss Experience Prevention Issue: 06.08 Issue: 08.10 Close: 05.25 Close: 07.27 Materials: 05.30 Materials: 08.01

THE POWER OF CONTENT

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] Photograph by GIOVANNI GIANNONI Think Tank Experience and Entertainment Supercede Stuff by Deborah Weinswig

If you spend enough time looking at data and studying As a result, the experience economy will grow significantly. And as traditional businesses — shopper behavior, the fashion apparel business along with including fashion apparel brands — incorporate an experiential element into their offerings and traditional retailing is undergoing a major transformation: into stores, the number of consumers who prefer spending on experiences rather than on goods will Consumers are consuming, but it is not the same as it was also continue to grow. And the trend will become more popular not just with Millennials, whose dis- before. ¶ Underpinning this transformation is a shift toward posable income will continue to grow as they age, but with all demographic groups as smartphone spending on experiences over buying “things,” and a push by technology (a key enabler of the new experiential business models) is adopted more readily across retailers and brands to make generations. Simultaneously, brick-and-mortar retailers will the shopping experience grow into entertainment destinations in a bid to stand out from the online shopping experience. more entertaining. To help drive in-store traffic and provide a more This year, expect traditional businesses, such meaningful customer experience, many brick- as apparel brands, to add “experiential” offerings and-mortar retailers are returning to prior tactics including dining, travel and live events, while and strategies, such as offering “retail-tainment” technology firms and start-ups will continue to in their stores. They are incorporating in-store offer innovations that will enhance the shopping events, more interesting and decorative store inte- experience. riors and interactive elements that fully involve Driving this shift are consumers who value customers in a way that is unique to the brand. acquiring experiences more than they value This allows brands to provide a personal, tangible acquiring goods. And Millennials in particular experience and engage with customers, and gives reflect this trend by their preference for attending customers a reason to come back to the physical live events, traveling and dining at hip venues store even when they can most likely make their instead of spending on stuff — and they enthusi- purchase online. astically record and curate these experiences with Driving this trend is ongoing declines in retail smartphone cameras and social media platforms. store foot traffic. Some approaches are often gas- Older consumers tend to spend more on travel Simultaneously, brick- tronomical: Urban Outfitters, Club Monaco and and tourism, as they lead healthy and active Kohl’s have all joined the trend of retailers opening lifestyles even as they age. Naturally, retailers and-mortar retailers will coffee shops in their stores. Urban Outfitters took benefiting most from the trend present consumers the concept one step further in 2015 by acquir- with experiential offerings, but many technology grow into entertainment ing the Vetri Family group of restaurants, and is and sharing-economy start-ups have also capital- reportedly working on opening restaurants in a ized on it by democratizing the travel and lodging destinations in a bid to number of stores. industries. stand out from the online Technology is also playing a role. For example, And the data behind these changes are fashion apparel retailers Rebecca Minkoff and eye-opening. shopping experience. Tommy Hilfiger have provided shoppers with A recent report from eMarketer shows that 64 virtual reality (VR) headsets that allow them to percent of Millennials earmark earnings for the experience the brands’ runway shows. piggy bank and to invest, which compares to 45 Don’t be surprised to see brands and retail- RETAIL 2020 percent of Gen-Xers and 46 percent of Baby Boom- ers experimenting with unconventional food ers. The report also noted that when Millennials and beverage offerings. More retailers will were asked what was more important, 61 percent use in-store technology such as VR to make THE NEW STORE EXPERIENCE said it was experiences over possessions. the shopping experience more entertaining. Meanwhile, multiple start-ups have entered And we anticipate a proliferation of mobile the scene with new business models that aim to apps that improve the in-store experience capitalize on these shifts in consumer behavior. by giving the shopper access to customiz- For example, Gigzolo is a curated network of musi- able shopping lists, location-relevant promo- JUNE 14, 2016 / NEW YORK CITY cians and DJs available for hire for events. Zap- tions and product and inventory information. travel is a digital travel agent that uses a semantic summits.wwd.com search engine to scroll through its database, while Deborah Weinswig, CPA, is executive director and If Only is an online marketplace for unique expe- head of global retail and technology at Fung Business ATTEND: KIM MANCUSO, [email protected], 646.356.4722 SPONSOR: ALEXIS COYLE, [email protected], 646.356.4719

riences that range in price from $50 to $5,000. Intelligence Centre. Giacomo Bagnara by Illustration

EVENT SPONSOR FAIRCHILD 66 MARCH 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM SUMMITS ANNUAL PARTNERS A waxed cotton jacket is a ﬁsherman’s best friend. In fact, it’s super-functional for almost any outdoor activity because dirt and water wipe right off. And it’s as stylish as it is functional. So whether it’s a ﬁsh or something else you’re after, you can make that big catch. AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2015 Service Marks/Trademarks COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. AMERICA’S