The Impression/CFDA Issue
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2016 Annual Report
20 16 The Mission of the Council of Fashion Designers of America is to STRENGTHEN The Council of Fashion Designers of America family represents Letter the best talent in our country. When we come together as the from the CFDA community, there is little we can’t do: no change we can’t THE IMPACT OF accomplish. Two-thousand-and-sixteen was a banner year. We Chairwoman, welcomed 40 new members to our family, relaunched CFDA.com and the Fashion Calendar, and grew New York Fashion Week: Diane von Men’s, shining a spotlight on America’s impressive menswear talent. AMERICAN faSHION Furstenberg, It’s also a challenging time for many sectors, including fashion. Everybody is surfing the tsunami to make it through the storm. and the The CFDA’s core pillars are so important—now more than ever. President and Through our various programs, we nurture health, diversity, and sustainability in the industry; bolster domestic manufacturing; and in the global Chief Executive increase our philanthropic efforts. We also continue to encourage CFDA designers to take a path that works best for them as they Officer, plot their growth. Our study with the Boston Consulting Group on Steven Kolb the future of New York Fashion Week underscored that message. Looking to the future, we will place even more emphasis on economy. civic responsibility and how we, as one of the nation’s foremost creative communities, can contribute to causes that are important to us. Together, we can help create positive change. And what’s more in fashion than that? 1 2 Membership in the Council of Fashion Designers of America is open to Membership Americans who are designing in the United States or abroad, or international designers whose businesses are based in the United States. -
When Ron Meyer
SPELLBOUND the magic of gigi hadid Beyond Perfume Beyond 866.VUITTON louisvuitton.com HERMÈS BY NATURE 888-DYURMAN DA VIDYURMAN.COM 870 MADISON AVENUE NEW YORK October 2016 30 EDITOR’S LETTER 34 CONTRIBUTORS 36 ON THE COVER 38 COLUMNISTS on Mistakes 144 STILL LIFE Danielle Steel The best-selling author shares a few of her favorite things. Photography by Drew Kelly What’s News. 41 Art Dealer Elizabeth Dee Opens a Gallery in Harlem Plus: Other Cultural Happenings in the Neighborhood 44 A Fresh Take on Danish Design From Karakter Bulgari Celebrates Rome’s Spanish Steps in Style An Appealing Menu of Cookbooks Hits the Shelves 46 NYC Architecture as It Might Have Been RICHARD, FILMMAKER_SAALFELDEN Current/Elliott Partners With a North Carolina Mill 48 Stephen Shore’s Teenage Photos of Warhol’s Factory Handbags That Echo Another Era—With a Twist Vacheron Constantin Revamps Its Overseas Line 50 The Latest Concept in Beauty: DIY Products Krewe, a Young Eyewear Brand on the Rise 52 Christopher Guest’s Mascots Premieres on Netflix Chic Italian Furnishings From Marta Sala Éditions The Latest Books Making the Leap to the Big Screen 54 Chippendale, Sydney’s Thriving Arts District 56 The Dynamic Musical Sisters Behind Ibeyi MOD. AR7125 58 The Download: Bobbi Brown COM ON THE COVER Gigi Hadid, photographed by Inez & Vinoodh and styled by George Cortina. Brandon Maxwell top and pants, Rodarte belt, Marley Glassroth bandanna and Lisa Eisner bracelets. For details see Sources, page 139. THIS PAGE A seating area in Christian Louboutin’s compound in Melides, Portugal, photographed by 104 Salva López. -
CFDA) Is a Trade Association with a Membership of More Than 435 of America’S Foremost Womenswear, Menswear, Accessory and Jewelry Designers
Council of Fashion Designers of America ANNUAL REPORT 2020 Founded by Eleanor Lambert in 1962, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) is a trade association with a membership of more than 435 of America’s foremost womenswear, menswear, accessory and jewelry designers. The CFDA mission is to strengthen the impact of American fashion in the global economy. The organization services its membership and the fashion industry at large through programs dedicated to: EDUCATION/SCHOLARSHIPS SOCIAL IMPACT/DIVERSITY, EQUITY & INCLUSION SUSTAINABLE INITIATIVES BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT AWARDS NEW YORK FASHION WEEK/ FASHION CALENDAR & RUNWAY360 FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN PARTNERSHIPS PHILANTHROPY COMMUNICATIONS B LETTER FROM THE CEO, STEVEN KOLB In CFDA’s six decades, the year 2020 was like nothing we had ever experienced before. Covid-19 created significant challenges for our members and the entire fashion eco-system, threatening the survival of many. As an industry and organization, we faced an overdue reckoning with the inequities that exist and addressed racial injustices to create a more diverse, equitable and inclusive future. If there was one positive to come out of 2020, it was a reminder of just how strong and resilient the fashion community is. At the CFDA, we immediately refocused all 2020 plans and programs to provide support and resources to those impacted by the pandemic. The CFDA and Vogue raised $5 million for A Common Thread, and gave relief grants to designers, small retailers, and factories. We supported the production and distribution of PPE materials. Working with allies in Washington, we lobbied Congress for inclusion in the CARES Act, and CFDA.com became a valuable resource hub for real-time information and advice. -
The Psychology of Now
Fashion. Beauty. Business. THE MET SET MAY 2016 The red carpet No. 1 and beyond at the Costume Institute Gala’s big night. Features, p. 42 MAKING A SPLASH Nineties-inspired men’s eyewear updates retro with a futuristic twist. Agenda, p. 34 UNDER THE INFLUENCE Assesssing trends at Coachella and their impact on web shopping searches. Data Points, p. 32 The PSYCHOLOGY of NOW The consumers’ psyche is being shattered by data overload and fiscal pressures. US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 Karl Lagerfeld’s gown for Chanel with 2,500 white silk camellias Edward Nardoza hand-embroidered EDITOR IN CHIEF by Lemarié. Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Miles Socha EXECUTIVE EDITOR, EUROPE Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski CREATIVE DIRECTOR John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS MANAGING EDITOR, OPERATIONS Diana Benbasset DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE SENIOR EDITOR, FINANCIAL Vicki M. Young BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine DEPUTY EDITOR, FASHION Troy Segal SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale ACCESSORIES MARKET DIRECTOR Roxanne Robinson FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITOR Taylor Harris ASSOCIATE EYE EDITOR Kristen Tauer MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. -
Lantern Lights up Tinsletown
Jobs, real estate & misc. Business Classified, 10-11D The Dallas Morning News Section D Sunday, June 2, 2019 Texas ponies up for corporate incentives once again n good times, you keep the BUSINESS INSIGHT allows local governments to It’s a near-lock that local for the Texas Enterprise Fund, al for 2020-21, and he got momentum going. offer their own tax breaks to and state incentives would be $50 million to entice filmmak- everything he asked for. I That’s the philosophy attract employers and in- part of those deals, and all ers to Texas and $40 million to “We cannot be complacent,” behind Texas’ approach to vestment. sides can rest assured: The recruit star researchers to state the governor’s budget said luring new business, and in These are timely devel- cookie jar is full again in Texas. universities. The Lege also about supporting economic practical terms, that means opments, in part because two At a time when New York, approved $110 million, courte- development and tourism. ponying up the big bucks for MITCHELL major prospects are kicking Florida and Washington, D.C., sy of hotel occupancy taxes, to Two years ago, Abbott faced corporate incentives. SCHNURMAN the tires in Dallas right now. are pulling back on so-called promote tourism and attract some pushback on incentives. In the legislative session [email protected] Ride-hailing giant Uber and corporate welfare, Texas law- more domestic and global A House budget proposal that just ended, lawmakers in retailer Lowe’s Cos. are mull- makers are staying the course. -
The Answer Man Amid a Fashion System in Disarray, Azzedine Alaïa Remains a Beacon of Independent Thinking
Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fall’s Bold MAR And Beautiful 2016 The season takes No. 1 shape: Top notes from New York, London and Milan. Feature, p. 36 After Burn Post-Oscar parties and the red-carpet Report Card. Eye, p. 20 The Word From Mrs. B Joan Burstein riffs on fashion, retail and life after Browns. Agenda, p. 18 The Answer Man Amid a fashion system in disarray, Azzedine Alaïa remains a beacon of independent thinking. US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 PRO-CONTOUR BE YOUR OWN PRO AT INFALLIBLE INFALLIBLEPRO.COM PERFECTLY SCULPTED CONTOURS IN 30 SECONDS THE NEW PRO LOOK OF CONTOUR GO PRO WITH OUR 1ST SCULPTING PALETTE. THE SPECIALLY DESIGNED PRO-CONTOUR BRUSH MAKES IT EASY. THE BLENDABLE HIGHLIGHT AND CONTOUR DUO INSTANTLY CREATES LIGHT AND SHADOW FOR A BEAUTIFULLY DEFINED FACE ALL DAY. BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.™ NEW Barbara Palvin TRY ON THE INFALLIBLE LOOKS INSTANTLY. DOWNLOAD THE MAKEUP GENIUS APP. ©2016 L’Oréal USA, Inc. Contents Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF ADVERTISING Pete Born INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell Bridget Foley BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh EXECUTIVE EDITOR AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen James Fallon LUXURY DIRECTOR EDITOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Miles Socha EXECUTIVE EDITOR, EUROPE Shannon Fitzgerald CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Robb Rice Rachael DeSantis GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR Tina Schissel Nick Mrozowski REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES CREATIVE DIRECTOR WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 John B.