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The Psychology of Now

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The Psychology of Now Fashion. Beauty. Business. THE MET SET MAY 2016 The red carpet No. 1 and beyond at the Costume Institute Gala’s big night. Features, p. 42 MAKING A SPLASH Nineties-inspired men’s eyewear updates retro with a futuristic twist. Agenda, p. 34 UNDER THE INFLUENCE Assesssing trends at Coachella and their impact on web shopping searches. Data Points, p. 32 The PSYCHOLOGY of NOW The consumers’ psyche is being shattered by data overload and fiscal pressures. US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 Karl Lagerfeld’s gown for Chanel with 2,500 white silk camellias Edward Nardoza hand-embroidered EDITOR IN CHIEF by Lemarié. Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Miles Socha EXECUTIVE EDITOR, EUROPE Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski CREATIVE DIRECTOR John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS MANAGING EDITOR, OPERATIONS Diana Benbasset DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE SENIOR EDITOR, FINANCIAL Vicki M. Young BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine DEPUTY EDITOR, FASHION Troy Segal SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale ACCESSORIES MARKET DIRECTOR Roxanne Robinson FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITOR Taylor Harris ASSOCIATE EYE EDITOR Kristen Tauer MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes MEN’S FASHION ASSISTANT Kayana Cordwell MARKET EDITORS FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt ACCESSORIES Misty White Sidell BEAUTY, FINANCE Allison Collins BEAUTY, MASS MARKET Ellen Thomas BEAUTY, WEST COAST Rachel Brown DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Leigh Nordstrom CORRESPONDENTS LONDON, GENERAL Lorelei Marfil ASSIGNMENT EDITOR ACCESSORIES AND GENERAL Natalie Theodosi ASSIGNMENT EDITOR LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, Kelsi Zimmerman NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Kayana Cordwell PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke REPORTER, NEWS PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB COORDINATOR Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant GENERAL ASSIGNMENT EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell DESIGN DEPARTMENT ART DIRECTOR Mallory Roynon DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Oona Wally PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Jillian Sollazzo PHOTO STUDIO PHOTO STUDIO COORDINATOR Emily Taylor PHOTOGRAPHERS Justice Apple, George Chinsee, Thomas Iannaccone COPYDESK COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, Maxine Wally The Met Set PREPRESS PRODUCTION DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman 42 The exhibition, the red PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin WWD.COM The DIGITAL DIRECTOR Danica Lo carpet and beyond, from the DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Ryan Richmond WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton Metropolitan Museum of Art SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Leah Kircher tk Caption Rate nisque et eserae INTERNATIONAL DIGITAL EDITOR Fabiana Repaci Costume Instituteplitatem quuntion Gala. pe voluptae PUBLIC RELATIONS Feature senimus doloribus a natem renimet P.R. COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni fugiati squam, ipsus si sum quia Photograph by ELI SCHMIDT WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 3 Contents Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ADVERTISING INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR BEAUTY DIRECTOR Louise Coolick ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Trish Robbins CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Rachael DeSantis Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-617-9283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti AUDIENCE MARKETING VICE PRESIDENT Ellen Fairbanks Dealy CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT The Regal Tuberose scent. SENIOR DIRECTOR FINANCE, PLANNING Sean McDermott AND OPERATIONS SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal INSTITUTIONAL SALES Bespoke fragrances from budding perfumer Eric SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch Buterbaugh Florals, which scored an investment PRODUCTION from Puig and has landed at Saks Fifth Avenue and PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley PRODUCTION MANAGER John Cross SUMMITS & EVENTS Bergdorf Goodman, among others. VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher Agenda, page 20. DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR The Psychology DEPARTMENTS OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson Of Now 10 6 Social Studies Preconceived notions that The best and worst in social brands and merchants media, what’s trending, whom have used for decades to follow. WWD AND FAIRCHILD MEDIA to understand their ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION customers and coax them 9 The Essentialist Jay Penske CHAIRMAN & CEO to purchase are gone. The week’s top stories. Welcome to the Age of VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar Anxiety. 40 Eye STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault Arts and Culture Maria BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT 34 Kochetkova, a principal dancer GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene Nineties-inspired sunglasses with both the San Francisco SVP HUMAN RESOURCES VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson are updated with futurist Ballet and the American Ballet VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar flare . Dickies, famous Theatre, goes her own way on VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West for workwear, is getting VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen stage and in fashion. VICE PRESIDENT, Christina Yeoh aggressive about denim TECHNICAL OPERATIONS for fall. DEPUTY GENERAL COUNSEL Judith R. Margolin 64 Bridget Foley’s Diary DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion Agenda The Case of the Truncated SR. DIRECTOR OF Joni Antonacci PRODUCTION OPERATIONS Trunk: A discussion of that age- CONTROLLER Young Ko old thorn in fashion’s side, the SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGER Derek Ramsey PLUS: Trend: Utility Shoes; Briefs Fashion, beauty, accessories, retail, knockoff. DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko markets, men’s; FaceTime Johnny Schillereff; Data Points DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, Coachella’s influence; Model Call Darius Johnson & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson SENIOR IT ANALYST Carl Foner IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber ON THE COVER: Photograph by The Voorhes Ryan Ramos TO CONTACT WWD WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 211, NO. 19 Wednesday, May 4, 2016. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, except for the fifth week in August, the second week in September, and the third and fourth weeks in December, with one EDITORIAL +1-212-256-8130 additional issue in February, April, June, August, October and December, by Fairchild Media LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich - Hill, ADVERTISING +1-212-256-8102 ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: CIRCULATION +1-515-237-3650 Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. 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