Fashion. Beauty. Business. THE MET SET MAY 2016 The red carpet No. 1 and beyond at the Costume Institute Gala’s big night. Features, p. 42

MAKING A SPLASH Nineties-inspired men’s eyewear updates retro with a futuristic twist. Agenda, p. 34

UNDER THE INFLUENCE Assesssing trends at Coachella and their impact on web shopping searches. Data Points, p. 32

The

PSYCHOLOGY of NOW

The consumers’ psyche is being shattered by data overload and fiscal pressures.

US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 Karl Lagerfeld’s gown for Chanel with 2,500 white silk camellias Edward Nardoza hand-embroidered EDITOR IN CHIEF by Lemarié. Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Miles Socha EXECUTIVE EDITOR, EUROPE Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski CREATIVE DIRECTOR

John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015

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Photograph by ELI SCHMIDT WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 3 Contents

Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

ADVERTISING INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR BEAUTY DIRECTOR Louise Coolick ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Trish Robbins CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Rachael DeSantis Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-617-9283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti AUDIENCE MARKETING VICE PRESIDENT Ellen Fairbanks Dealy CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT The Regal Tuberose scent. SENIOR DIRECTOR FINANCE, PLANNING Sean McDermott AND OPERATIONS SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal INSTITUTIONAL SALES Bespoke fragrances from budding perfumer Eric SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch Buterbaugh Florals, which scored an investment PRODUCTION from Puig and has landed at Saks Fifth Avenue and PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley PRODUCTION MANAGER John Cross SUMMITS & EVENTS Bergdorf Goodman, among others. VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher Agenda, page 20. DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR The Psychology DEPARTMENTS OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson Of Now 10 6 Social Studies Preconceived notions that The best and worst in social brands and merchants media, what’s trending, whom

have used for decades to follow. WWD AND FAIRCHILD MEDIA to understand their ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION customers and coax them 9 The Essentialist Jay Penske CHAIRMAN & CEO to purchase are gone. The week’s top stories. Welcome to the Age of VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar Anxiety. 40 Eye STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault šArts and Culture Maria BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT 34 Kochetkova, a principal dancer GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene Nineties-inspired sunglasses with both the San Francisco SVP HUMAN RESOURCES VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson are updated with futurist Ballet and the American Ballet VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar flare . . . Dickies, famous Theatre, goes her own way on VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West for workwear, is getting VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen stage and in fashion. VICE PRESIDENT, Christina Yeoh aggressive about denim TECHNICAL OPERATIONS for fall. DEPUTY GENERAL COUNSEL Judith R. Margolin 64 Bridget Foley’s Diary DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion Agenda The Case of the Truncated SR. DIRECTOR OF Joni Antonacci PRODUCTION OPERATIONS Trunk: A discussion of that age- CONTROLLER Young Ko old thorn in fashion’s side, the SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGER Derek Ramsey PLUS: Trend: Utility Shoes; Briefs Fashion, beauty, accessories, retail, knockoff. DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko markets, men’s; FaceTime Johnny Schillereff; Data Points DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, Coachella’s influence; Model Call Darius Johnson & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson SENIOR IT ANALYST Carl Foner IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber ON THE COVER: Photograph by The Voorhes Ryan Ramos

TO CONTACT WWD WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 211, NO. 19 Wednesday, May 4, 2016. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, except for the fifth week in August, the second week in September, and the third and fourth weeks in December, with one EDITORIAL +1-212-256-8130 additional issue in February, April, June, August, October and December, by Fairchild Media LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich - Hill, ADVERTISING +1-212-256-8102 ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: CIRCULATION +1-515-237-3650 Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and produc- tion correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave, 2nd Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com or to subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSO- LICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

4 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Social Studies EDITED BY KRISTEN TAUER THE WEEK IN SOCIAL MEDIA Best Worst

Not the best display of Val Garland’s makeup artistry. The beauty process isn’t always pretty.

@thevalgarland @madonna Makeup artist Icon

J. Crew showed its stripes to raise skin-cancer awareness.

@jcrew Brand

“gangs all here” POTUS? Michelle Obama? Joe Biden? Huma Abedin? Bernie From the 1980 Met Gala: Raquel Welch, Andy It was rosy at the NYSE last week as Christy Sanders? Kendall Jenner missed selfie opps with the rest of the Warhol and Daniela Morera. Turlington stood up for mothers-to-be. “gang” at the White House Correspondents’ dinner.

@erdemlondon @cturlington @kendalljenner Brand Model Model

In the 24 hours following the Trending #Lemonade HBO special: Let’s Follow THE BEYONCÉ #LEMONADE EFFECT ON SET SHOE STYLE MODEL MOMENTS

The average number of lemon emojis per tweet was 3.

The average number of bee emojis per tweet was 2.

More than 2M tweets More than 1.8M tweets 1.8M tweets sent during included at least one included at least one bee the special. In the 48 hours lemon emoji on Twitter emoji on Twitter in April. following the special/album in April. drop, there were 4.1M tweets about Beyoncé and Lemonade.

@dakotajohnson @nikelab @fernandocabral07

Actress Brand concept Model Abrams/BFA/REX/Shutterstock Hunter by Cabral James Shaw/REX/Shutterstock; by Johnson photograph

6 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Follow Us @WWD “Employed women are more likely to create positive social impacts as they tend to spend their income on the health and education of children.” — Onno Rühl, World Bank, India THE ESSENTIALIST

TOP 10 STORIES OF THE WEEK 1 Welcome to the Machine Anna Wintour played host to New York’s own red-carpet Oscar rival — the Met Costume Institute Gala — while the exhibition itself, “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology,” tried to prove once and for all fashion’s dubious status as art form. 2 Eye on China The Chinese government continued to clamp down on all aspects of Western influence, but when it comes to brands, it still faces rampant counterfeiting — $697 million in value of goods seized last year — earning it another year on the U.S. Trade Representative’s priority watch list. 3 “Showing both women Get Out the Checkbook and men together is an organic move that follows In a transaction valued at $800 million, Hanesbrands Inc. is set to acquire Pacific Brands Ltd., the number-one underwear maker in Australia, including Bonds, the leading basics underwear brand, the evolution of my and Berlei premium bras. creative vision.” — TOMAS MAIER 4 All Together Now Bottega Veneta is the latest house to meld its men’s and women’s shows, and will present both spring 2017 collections together in September as it marks its 50th anniversary and the 15th year of Tomas Maier as creative director. “Go ahead, get your 5 six-pack out.” NACDS: Exclusivity Reigns in Mass Beauty — STELLA MCCARTNEY, TO ATHLETES MODELING HER The scramble to be first to market with unique merchandise is leading retailers to augment OLYMPIC TEAM APPAREL nationally supported beauty brands with exclusive lines, limited-time offers or one-of-a-kind stockkeeping units, dramatically changing the mass beauty landscape. 6 Rihanna Gooses Puma When celebrity works, it works: Puma’s sizzling Fenty by Rihanna collaboration, as well as new face Kylie Jenner hawking its Fierce trainer, is propelling the Kering-owned German maker, which reported sales and earnings each up about 4 percent in the first quarter. 7 Let the Games Begin As the Olympic torch began its journey from Athens to Rio de Janeiro, Ralph Lauren, Stella McCartney for Adidas and Lacoste revealed uniforms they have created for the American, British and French teams, respectively. 8 “It takes marketing and Wearable World advertising and makes Awear Solutions’ new technology allows a brand to track via embedded chip how its product it smart.” is worn — time of day, to what events or locations, for how long — and develop appropriate — LIRON SLONIMSKY, consumer communication plans. AWEAR SOLUTIONS 9 Musical Interlude Lady Gaga and Sir Elton John teamed up on a Love Bravery collection of apparel and accessories exclusively for Macy’s, with 25 percent of sales benefiting the pop stars’ foundations. “I love the idea of fusing 10 who you are on the inside — your passions and Ready, Set, IPO dreams — with what you After years of talk on the matter, Furla has finally set plans for an initial public offering in motion, wear on the outside.” with TIP Tamburi Investment Partners — whose investors include the Marzotto, Loro Piana and — SIR ELTON JOHN

Rühl photograph by Ritesh Sharma Ritesh by photograph Rühl Ferragamo families — to come to market in 2017 or 2018.

Illustration by KYLE HILTON WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 9 AGENDA

THE PSYCHOLOGY OF NOW

The frenzied inner life and economic squeeze that are making things harder for everyone in the Age of Anxiety. By EVAN CLARK

10 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Photographs by THE VOORHES WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 11 AGENDA “We’re going through a fundamental The consumer global economic transition, psyche has finally things just really aren’t the same and exploded. they’re not going to be ombarded by digital messages, stressed financially and the same.” overwrought emotionally, there’s almost nothing left of the traditional shopper who fits neatly into demographic norms. Edie Weiner, The Future Hunters The preconceived notions that brands and merchants have used Bfor decades to understand their customers and coax them to purchase are gone. Forever. People are anxious, seeking integrity, untrusting of the establishment, politically divided, worried about global terrorism, watching wealth become according to the Economic Policy Institute. ever more concentrated at the very top of the food chain and struggling to It’s a dichotomy that’s increasingly seeping into regain some modicum of control. the public consciousness not just in the U.S., but The 21st century is still young. And while its core characteristics are only worldwide, from the Occupy Wall Street move- ment to the presidential campaign to the economic starting to solidify and still impossible to pinpoint, this is an age that is being proselytizing of Pope Francis, who has warned defined in a significant way by the digital revolution and the widening wealth gap against the “idolatry of money.” that is leaving middle- and lower-income rungs with less — and feeling left out. People are demanding to be heard, to be noticed — which is fueling a U.S. presidential race that has There is no easy catchphrase to summarize the new Millennium — and been more divisive — and more bizarre — than perhaps one will only come clear in hindsight, as was the case for the Industrial any in recent memory. Discontent is boiling over Revolution or the Age of Enlightenment. Will this era simply be the Digital Age? outside the U.S. as well, from student demonstra- tions in the Place de la République in Paris over The Age of Terrorism? Or is there a new disruption around the corner that proposed changes in labor laws to the campaign will cause yet more tectonic shifts in for Britain to exit the European Union. peoples’ lives and attitudes? MONEY WOES Bernie Sanders, who has mounted a much U.S. household expenditures have bounced back stronger primary challenge to Hillary Clinton than That could be what’s fueling the from the Great Recession, but incomes have not — most thought possible, has done so by speaking worry — in a time when terrorists the bills are back, but not the paychecks. out forcefully about a system that is “rigged” — to can strike on any street corner, This is not a problem for the 1 percent, but a vise pick up a theme also used by Trump on the other for middle- and lower-income consumers. side of the aisle. once high-flying companies can go Most American household incomes fell between “The American people are sick and tired boom and bust within a few years, 2010 and 2013, with families of color and the less with establishment politics, with establishment binge watching is the latest thing in educated hit the hardest, according to a recent economics and establishment media,” Sanders examination of the household finances by The Pew said last year as he was gaining momentum and entertainment and formerly revered Charitable Trusts. Stock ownership also declined followers. “They fully understand…that corporate public figures — be they politicians during that period for the households that weren’t greed is destroying our economy and that almost or sports stars — can turn out to be at the top 10 percent of the income ladder, while all of the new income and wealth being created is almost a third of working-age adults had no retire- going to the top 1 percent.” crooks, cheaters or worse, it seems ment savings or pensions. He also laid out the difficulties facing anyone there is little solid ground beneath us. “Recent public opinion polling found American trying to change the dynamic. Everything is shifting faster than ever adults pessimistic and anxious about the economy “No matter who is elected to be president, that and their own economic stability,” Pew said. person will not be able to address the enormous and — at least for now — the phrase “They question whether the American Dream is problems facing the working families of our that defines these years best might be within reach, and many doubt that their children country,” Sanders said. “They will not be able to “The Age of Anxiety.” will fare better than they have.” succeed because the power of corporate America, That’s a heavy weight to carry and one that the power of Wall Street, the power of the cam- Here, a look at some of the issues — will only get heavier if the “slack” in household paign donors is so great that no president alone and at what might lie ahead. Buckle up. budgets continues to slip away. can stand up to them.” ► The typical U.S. household in the middle third of the income spectrum had $17,164 left over at the end of 2004. That slipped to $5,944 by 2014, according to Pew. And the typical household in the lower third saw its excess of $1,417 disappear over the 10-year period and in 2014 ended up $2,339 in the hole. Stock market volatility has hurt the top of the income spectrum, but Forbes’ latest tally of the world’s wealthiest still found 1,826 billionaires with an aggregate net worth of $6.48 trillion. In the U.S., the average chief executive officer makes more than 300 times the average worker,

12 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM AGENDA Global Consumer Confidence THE KNOWLEDGE INFLUX Shoppers also know what’s going on in the facto- Nielsen’s ranking of fourth- ries where their fashions are made, if brands are quarter shopper sentiment staying true to their message, if companies are on the “right” side of social issues — from who’s using in 61 countries. which bathroom in North Carolina to whether they use “on call” scheduling. Score Having all that knowledge is empowering, but India 131 it’s not making the retailer’s life any simpler or the Philipines 117 shoppers any happier. The torrent of information Indonesia 115 has washed away so much of the old-establishment Thailand 114 facade while the social media echo chamber has Denmark 110 ratcheted up the adrenaline. NAVIGATING THE NEW GRID Vietnam 108 “None of this would have been possible with- But financial strain and disparity are just a part Utd. Arab Emirates 108 out the Internet,” said Kit Yarrow, a consumer of what’s weighing on the modern mind. People China 107 psychologist at Golden Gate University. “Both today are always on, always searching and plugged Saudi Arabia 106 the insight and empowerment of the Internet, in to more information than they know how to use. Pakistan 103 but also the complete distrust and a feeling like Brands feel the same. United Kingdom 101 people have to be wary and guarded and take The result? care of themselves because they can’t really, A mishmash that has everyone looking for Indexes above 100 indicate optimism really trust that the politicians, health-care pro- something more. Consumers don’t want to part viders are going to take care of them. Deep down with their hard-earned money unless it’s funneled United States 100 inside, I think people really want to trust — it’s to brands that speak to them and their values, Hong Kong 99 less stressful, it’s less work, it’s more rewarding. companies that “get” who they are as people and Canada 99 But they can’t.” allow them into the design and manufacturing Ireland 99 That sentiment has bruised the titans of the process. For their part, brands want shoppers New Zealand 99 previous age. who are engaged, loyal, able to bring along their Germany 98 “People would look to designers like they were friends to spend and willing to stay in one place Netherlands 98 gods — and they still do, I’m not saying it’s like a for more than a nanosecond. Czech Republic 97 switch turned off, it’s a continuum,” Yarrow said. Very few — brands or consumers — are getting Australia 96 “But is the designer the god or is it the stylist who what they want. Those who are find that the Peru 96 puts it together or the blogger…these people seem market is always moving and requires that they Singapore 94 to have more and more power today.” always be changing, branching out in new, unex- Colombia 94 The step change across society has made people pected ways. more depressed, more anxious and more narcis- Switzerland 93 “What you’re seeing is off the grid,” said futur- sistic, Yarrow said. Need proof? Just look at the Israel 93 ist Edie Weiner, president and ceo of The Future success of Instagram selfies, bloggers, YouTube Turkey 89 Hunters. “The problem today is that because we’re video stars — hello, Justin Bieber — and the on-de- Mexico 89 going through a fundamental global economic mand, I-want-it-now-or-you’ve-lost-me generation. transition, things just really aren’t the same and Estonia 89 A Verizon Wireless study several years ago on they’re not going to be the same. And the expec- Argentina 88 Millennials noted that unless a Web site loaded tation that they’re going to be the same is just Austria 86 on a Millennial’s smartphone in three seconds leading us down the wrong path.” Sweden 86 or less, they would give up. That is literally one… Weiner said even the old shorthand of thinking Morocco 85 two…three. of the world in terms of opposites doesn’t work South Africa 82 “The thing that makes us feel safer is control,” Norway 82 Yarrow said. Lithuania 81 Younger brands that are willing to have a con- Men’s Fashion Weeks “Is the designer the god Malaysia 80 versation with consumers — look at Dollar Shave Japan 79 Club’s snarky give-and-take with consumers — have or is it the stylist who Romania 79 gained share by giving up some control of their puts it together?” Chile 79 image, online and elsewhere. But that’s a tough ask An Advertising Opportunity Belgium 78 for established brands that are used to speaking on Kit Yarrow, Golden Gate University Slovakia 78 high. And it leaves the seasoned executives who Poland 78 have clawed their way to the top by learning the old ways and applying them in a very tough spot. Egypt 77 “People who have been in retail long enough to Brazil 76 anymore. So retail, fashion or politics can’t be seen get to those really senior positions a lot of times Latvia 76 as brick-and-mortar versus online or expensive are the last people who should be running the versus cheap or left versus right, Donald Trump France 74 shop,” Yarrow said. “A lot of times it takes almost versus Bernie Sanders. Russia 74 a complete break from the previous reality to “We have all these terms to help us navigate Bulgaria 72 really understand consumers and what they want. what’s going on,” she said. “What’s going on is that Spain 72 If retailers just keep trying to do the same things the opposites are breaking up and they don’t hold Taiwan 69 better instead of doing better things, it’s just a as points of comparison anymore.” Croatia 67 question of time before they die.” Pitti Uomo Preview Milan Preview NYFW: Men’s Preview Weiner noted: “Is the consumer cautious or is Portugal 66 That’s a statement that could apply to politics, the consumer freely spending? Those are not the Slovenia 64 a world where many in the old guard find them- ISSUE: June 7 ISSUE: June 15 ISSUE: July 13 two anchors anymore. They don’t mean anything Hungary 63 selves facing a mob. ► CLOSE: May 24 CLOSE: June 1 CLOSE: June 29 because consumers are figuring it out completely Finland 61 differently. They’re both at the same time — very Italy 61 MATERIALS: May 27 MATERIALS: June 6 MATERIALS: July 4 cautious, but very free about what they’re doing, Venezuela 61 but on a different grid.” Serbia 61 Coordinates on this new multidimensional Greece 53 grid can help marketers identify, for example, Ukraine 48 that new-money social media addict who doesn’t South Korea 46 feel rich but drives a Mercedes-Benz, wears Toms shoes, shops at H&M and supports Sanders’ cam- Source: Nielsen Global Survey of Consumer Confidence & paign for president. Spending Intentions, Q4 2015 But is that enough? FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] 14 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Infographic by CARLOS MONTEIRO AGENDA

Top Concerns Around The World

Asia-Pacific Europe Latin America Middle East/Africa North America

PASSPORT Job 29% Economy 29% Terrorism 29% Economy 29% 29% Immigration security

Work/Life Job Economy 27% balance 27% 27% security 27% Economy 27% Terrorism

Job Parents Health Crime Economy 18% 18% security 18% 18% welfare 18%

12% Job 12% Health 12% Increasing 12% Work/Life 12% Political security utility bills balance stability

Parents Increasing Health Health Health 12% welfare 12% utility bills 12% 12% 12%

Source: Nielsen Global Survey of Consumer Confidence & Spending Intentions, Q4 2015. Percentages reflect consumers’ biggest and second-biggest concerns.

GETTING REAL with the customers who are attracted by their “Human beings are over-messaged and over-mar- “Human beings are brand message. Jones said it’s not uncommon for keted, it’s coming at us from every direction,” said over-messaged and brands to target one demographic, say, guys 18 to Marcie Merriman, a cultural anthropologist and 24, with an online media campaign, only to find executive director, business strategy and retail over-marketed, it’s out that it’s 24- to 26-year-old women clicking. innovation at Ernst & Young. “It’s similar to having coming at us from That makes the interplay between brand and a bunch of people yelling at you…the natural reac- consumer a constant churn. tion is to shut down and ignore it or start yelling every direction.” “It’s never like a set it and forget it,” Jones said. back. People are yelling back.” “You can’t take the target audience question as They are screaming for authenticity — from Marcie Merriman, Ernst & Young rote. You have to do the research every single every direction. year.” “People are more forgiving of those who say One solution is to flip the script. Instead of try- the wrong thing authentically than those who ing to find an audience, companies can seek to find use the right words in a way that feels staged,” Psychology. “It used to be that we just got excited themselves, define exactly what their brands stand Merriman said. about actors and politicians and now it’s specific for and hope audiences come to them, Jones said. Just look at Donald Trump’s rise as the presump- brands, whether it’s Nike or Under Armour or That will be appreciated by everyone and help tive Republican party nominee for president. Zara, they have their fans and advocates. brands find kindred souls among the Baby Boom- As for brands, Merriman said those that don’t “For many people who are not that religious, ers who are moving into retirement; Gen Xers who get the balance right are “saying they’re about brands do occupy some space that previously reli- are hitting their professional strides; Millennials one thing and promoting one brand promise and gion might occupy,” Kirmani said. “We’re deriving who are nesting and fretting over their student then providing the customer with a completely meaning from those brands. It’s a double-edged loans, and Gen Zers, who are just awakening to CELEBRATING different experience through the engagement. sword because on one hand, they have these really the world. The consumers aren’t getting that experience strong brand fans. On the other hand, if they go It’s Gen Z that could best exemplify where the and what ends up happening is that brand feels beyond what the consumer thinks is the right thing world may be headed. Born from the late Nineties fake. It frustrates them. They’re quick to call B.S., for the brand, the right positioning, the right new on, the cohort is 60 million to 80 million strong THE SCENT especially the younger people today.” product introduction, they’ll get beaten back and and seen as the most engaged generation to date. Stores are generally losing the shouting match. consumers will rise up and protest.” They’re looking to not just make their way in the “Retail in general is increasingly losing its lus- world but to shape it. They will enter the work- ter,” Merriman said. “People have so many other CONNECTIONS force from about 2018 on and will hit middle age things to do with their time and their money. With attention spans shortening and shoppers from 2037 on. And don’t forget the so-called Alpha OF SUCCESS Shopping isn’t the social or entertainment activity caught up in an information frenzy, brands are Generation — who are all under age five and will hit that it used to be.” reaching out and connecting to people much more the workforce in 2030 and later. Who knows what The hope for the old guard is that they can stick directly, looking to target very narrowly defined changes will have taken hold by then? to their knitting and stay authentic and bring the slices of the demographic, or even individuals. The one firm thread through this Age of Anxiety consumer into the process. There’s still a lot riding “You really just have to know who your con- is that people want to be their own power center. on big names and, in some cases, they’re more sumer is or who you want your consumer to be They want to be noticed as individuals — by pol- important than ever. and you have to define them pretty granularly,” iticians, brands, other people. They’re wanting “Brands have more meaning now than they’ve said Kimberly Jones, president of media planning to ensure that they’re getting what they’re being The 2016 Fragrance Foundation Awards ever had for consumers before,” said Amna Kir- company Butler/Till, which helps brands identify sold and told. mani, a professor at the University of Maryland audiences and buy advertising. They want to trust again — and to take control and editor in chief of the Journal of Consumer “We’re living in a world where you’ve got a 24-7 of their lives. ■ AN ADVERTISING OPPORTUNITY: Issue: June 8 / Ad Close: May 25 / Materials: May 30 media cycle and you’ve got so much being thrown at you all the time that a lot of brands have focused on curation and trying to throw valuable content at you at the right time,” Jones said. Companies also have to be willing to connect FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] 16 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Infographic by CARLOS MONTEIRO AGENDA AGENDA

Grunge grows up this season with a tough-luxe look in lug-soled, high-heeled Briefs: Fashion, Beauty & Accessories. Trend: shoes. Newly appointed Mulberry creative director Johnny Coca does a pair of what he calls track-stud slingback pumps (left) liberally adorned with the over- STOMP! size round metal details that filled his fall collection. Sleeker than Coca’s take, the shiny silver bootie (right) by Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière conveys a

Barden, 29, said, “Coming over a year now,” Hanson practical, cool and strong vibe with its chunky heel. On the rougher side of fan- from a luxury high-end busi- said. “When we met with ciful, fall’s footwear is heavy-duty gone haute. — ROXANNE ROBINSON ness, I see so much potential Holly, she was just the right for John Hardy to elevate fit, because there is a combi- designs — taking icons, but nation of her innate creative refining the rich legacy with responsibility coupled with my artistic vision based in her refined experience and luxury.” impeccable taste,” he added.

JEWELRY Founded in Bali in 1975, “She is an industry prodigy Hardy’s New Hire John Hardy is slated for but when she put pencils to “substantial growth poten- sketchpad, what we saw was OJohn Hardy has appointed tial,” said Robert Hanson, an immense respect for the BEAUTY space spans three floors a new creative director. Hollie chief executive officer of the John Hardy brand.” A Café Becomes with a roof terrace. The first Bonneville Barden, formerly brand, which is owned by the The first collection Beauty Salon floor houses a cowboy/ head designer of De Beers, private equity fund Catterton. produced under Barden’s Western-themed A Wanted has joined the jewelry firm “I have actually been stewardship will hit retailers OSpa Esprit Group has Man espresso canteen, with plans to “refresh” looking for the new creative for fall 2017. merged beauty treatments which serves an all-day the John Hardy label. director for John Hardy for — MISTY WHITE SIDELL with artisan coffees and breakfast menu alongside culinary dishes, creating dishes including oatmeal a multilifestyle concept in pork risotto, crispy waffled If the market Growth in London. croissant sandwich and expands in 2015 in North The concept, called the sweet ‘n’ salty sourdough line with those America predictions, it Beauty Block Chelsea, waffles. The upper levels will achieve 45 merges Browhaus brow bar house a Browhaus brow percent growth HANDBAGS in 10 years. and the London Ministry of bar and the London Ministry Rock the Bag Waxing salon with A Wanted of Waxing salon for beauty Prestige 4.5% Man canteen. These three treatments. OThe two Jimmys of rock fragrances businesses are under the Plans call for having a guitar fame — Jimi Hendrix Spa Esprit Group umbrella. speakeasy cafe within the and Jimmy Page — were Situated at 330 Kings beauty store in New York. known as much for their style Carlos Monteiro by ccone; Illustration Road, the 2,233-square-foot — LORELEI MARFIL as their music, especially when it came to guitar straps. Now accessories designers Color HANDBAGS cosmetics 12.9% such as Gucci, Rebecca Minkoff and Valentino have All In the Family been getting in on the action OFondness for fringe runs for their handbags. Swiss- deep in the Sasson family. Parisian designer Myriam GAINING GROUND For Maurice Sasson, it’s Schaefer introduced a style, a remnant of his heyday the Volpone, named after $98 Billion in the Seventies, when he her dog, that features a thick The U.S. beauty market could grow to $98 billion by 2020, launched the denim label strap inspired by Hendrix’s O bearing his surname. For Elle own guitar. The designer predicts Euromonitor International from $80 billion today. Ben-Artzi Sasson, it’s what researched them over the ¶ Globally, premium products are pushing gains, driven by distinguishes the new bag years trawling vintage guitar sales of color cosmetics, fragrances and skin care. In North line she’s introducing next shops in London, Paris and spring as part of her own Milan. She especially liked America, color cosmetics and prestige fragrances both contemporary brand. the ease of movement doubled growth — to 12.9 and 4.5 percent, respectively, Louis Vuitton “We have very similar the strap allowed when in 2015. — ALLISON COLLINS taste,” said Ben-Artzi Sasson, carrying the instrument. The 27, who has partnered with bags are available in russet designer’s new petite shape her father and also with her brown and black suede as is, in her mind, made just for ACTIVEWEAR husband, Roy Ben-Artzi, on well as denim that’s been the essentials — credit card, L’Etoile Sport design more stylish women’s — as well as sophisticated, the three-year-old fashion distressed via three washes. vitamins and cigarettes. How tennis apparel. “Back then, with perforated mesh line, Elle Sasson, which is They retaill from $395 to very rock ’n’ roll. Dives Deeper nobody was doing ath-leisure accents and a subdued carried by Saks Fifth Avenue, $595. She’s also working on a — ROXANNE ROBINSON Into Activewear or luxury tenniswear. People color palette. Launching Shopbop.com and Aquagirl in backpack and evening bag to For Fall were laughing at me, saying in August on Net-a-porter. Tokyo and Milk in Los Angeles. add to the lineup in time for no one was going to pay com, letoilesport.com and in Mulberry The hobo and shoulder the launch. — KHANH T.L. TRAN OWhen she began playing $165 for a tennis skirt,” Philip resorts and private country tennis several years ago, said. Shortly thereafter, Philip clubs, the collection Yesim Philip, a former pro- expanded into golfwear and will range in price L’Etoile Sport photograph by Conor Doherty; Luis by Benjamin Lozovsky/BFA/REX/Shutterstock; Myriam Schaefer bag by Thomas Ianna bag by Myriam Schaefer Benjamin Lozovsky/BFA/REX/Shutterstock; by Conor Doherty; Luis by Sport photograph L’Etoile QUOTED fessional basketball player for fall, her L’Etoile Sport from $115 to “[The next stage is about] in her native Turkey, felt label continues to grow with $365. frustrated by the traditional the addition of a full-fledged — KRISTI GARCED transforming the organization, tennis whites sold in stores, activewear collection. “The calling the offerings “too whole idea is ‘play all day.’ You moving from an accessory technical” and “unflattering.” can work out in it and then retail model to a global brand So the New York-based go to lunch,” Philip said. Her designer launched her own fabrics are technical — with retail model.” athletic brand, L’Etoile Sport, cooling effects, built-in SPF Victor Luis, Coach Inc. in 2012, with a simple goal: to and reflective properties

18 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Photograph by CLAIRE BENOIST WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 19 AGENDA

The biggest thing

ome roots take hold quickly. A year after its launch, Eric Bu- terbaugh Florals has scored a mi- nority investment from Puig and we’ve ever done is prime positions at Saks Fifth Ave- Snue and Bergdorf Goodman. The budding Los Angeles fragrance brand has cut through the often esoteric clutter of niche perfumery with a refreshingly simple concept: flower-centered fragrances dreamed up by its namesake celebrity florist. this little product. And not just any celebrity florist. Buterbaugh is a man whose cell phone contact list of designers, actresses, musicians and models — Tory Burch, Michael Kors, Demi Moore, Naomi Campbell, Gwen Stefani, Nicole Richie and Gwyneth Pal- trow count on his floral arrangements — would make TMZ founder Harvey Levin envious. “In an industry that has seen an explosion of niche fragrance propositions, we believe that only those that have a real ‘raison d’être’ will sur- vive. Eric’s credibility, knowledge and creativity around the flower world give the brand a tremen- dous opportunity to translate his know-how into the fragrance arena,” said Marc Puig, chairman and chief executive officer of Puig, the Barcelo- na-based perfume and fashion company that ac- quired Penhaligon’s and L’Artisan Parfumeur in 2015. “It’s an exciting new proposition.” Department stores are giddy about introduc- ing EB Florals, which has been sold at Buter- baugh’s L.A. fragrance and art studio, in time for Mother’s Day shopping. Bergdorf Goodman start- Introducing Beautycounter Lengthening Mascara. Our safer, better beauty innovation for fantastically long lashes. ed inviting shoppers into the world of the brand on Monday with a pop-up floral shop containing We’ve done a lot since bringing Beautycounter But nothing is bigger than our breakthrough bouquets curated by Buterbaugh. “It brings to to you. Selling almost 3 million products. Lengthening Mascara. 4 organic moisturizers. 3 years in life what he does. It’s not just about a new scent; Building a team of nearly 20,000 consultants. development. 2 U.S. laboratories. 1 custom-designed it’s also about the story behind it,” said Elizabeth von der Goltz, senior vice president and general Launching in 2 countries. precision wand. 0 questionable ingredients. merchandise manager of fine apparel, 5F con- Eric Buterbaugh (right) at his temporary, jewelry and beauty at the fashion studio in Los Angeles with store. “He has such a unique story, and it really Fabrice Croisé, his cofounder and does tie in. It seems like a very personal project business partner (left). for him and people love to have that story behind a fragrance, especially at this level.” At Saks, where EB Florals premiered last week online and at stores in Houston, Las Vegas and Beverly Hills, Kate Oldham, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of beauty, lingerie and swimwear, predicted it would be Business “hugely successful.” “We look at brands all the time, and it’s rare we have a uniform reaction, and such a positive and emotional reaction when we see something,” she said. “We just thought it was incredibly authentic.” Buterbaugh, whose floral operation has been In Bloom housed at the Four Seasons Hotel in Beverly Hills With an investment from Puig, Eric for 17 years, toyed with the idea of founding a fra- grance brand long before it came to fruition. “It’s Buterbaugh’s line of floral fragrances is crazy. I’ve always actually wanted to do it,” he said. “When I was a little kid growing up in Okla- growing from a one-man-show to a niche homa, I loved smelly stuff. I had every bubble Be Your Beautiful. bath, every cologne, every perfume. I never dif- label that’s a hit with retailers. ferentiated between male or female. If I thought By RACHEL BROWN it smelled good, I loved it. Secretly, I wanted to beautycounter.com do this brand for years and tried to figure out ►

20 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Photographs by GER GER ADVERTISEMENT AGENDA

could see things would come out in the world the THE LINEUP way they envisioned them.” Firmenich came back to Croisé and Buter- Flower Power RECOGNIZING EXCELLENCE baugh with 34 fragrances, a sum that was whit- tled down to 10, two of which EB Florals has kept under wraps for future releases. The noses Alber- IN LUXURY SERVICE to Morillas, Pierre Negrin, Ilias Ermenidis, Harry Fremont and Honorine Blanc were involved in L’ORÉAL LUXE is proud to partner with WWD producing perfumes in the initial lineup now en- 1 to recognize exceptional service in luxury beauty. tering retailers that features fragrances devoted to hyacinth, lily of the valley, tuberose, jasmine, lavender, violet and rose. At Buterbaugh’s studio, where fragrances are priced at $295 for a 100- ml. bottle and $495 for a 250-ml. bottle, Croisé revealed sales have been balanced between the scents, but the retailers are particularly fond of EB Florals’ two rose scents, Sultry and Thorns. Oldham described Sultry as “an unexpected take on rose.” More generally, she said, “All of the fragrances are based in florals, but they are not the overpowering florals you might think of. They are nuanced, subtle and interesting.” Buterbaugh commented that a gentle ap- proach to scent binds the EB Florals’ fragrances together. “You are not going to get on an elevator with someone wearing one of them and think, ‘Oh God, you overdid it,’” he emphasized. “Reveal your warmth and sincerity; Large fragrance companies circled EB Florals trust grows from that.” almost from the outset, and the brand’s early re- “All of the fragrances are sults demonstrated they weren’t circling without reason. In six to seven months at the L.A. loca- 2 based in florals, but they tion, Croisé divulged sales topped $300,000. “There are really good prospects for growth for are not the overpowering the brand. It is not [shown] only in terms of fig- florals you might think of. ures, but also in the feedback we are getting,” he said. Puig certainly believes Croisé and Bu- They are nuanced, subtle terbaugh understand how to run EB Florals lu- and interesting.” cratively. The brand will continue to be managed autonomously. Kate Oldham, senior vice president and It was important to Buterbaugh and Croisé merchandising manager of beauty, lingerie and swimwear that Puig take a non-controlling stake in EB Flo- at Saks Fifth Avenue rals. Mulling whether to move forward with the “We build connections by listening investment, Croisé said, “You ask yourself a lot closely in order to customize the of questions around control and influence, and Lancôme experience specifically for her.” how to make it happen. I tried to pull in people also around market reach and intelligence. It is in the [beauty] industry and it never felt right.” a very, very, very important decision because it In 2014, a venture capitalist familiar with Bu- only happens once in the history of a brand. It terbaugh’s fragrance aspirations connected him usually happens between the five- and 10-year to former Lancôme executive Fabrice Croisé, mark. It wasn’t like we hesitated for a long time, who was immediately won over by the notion of but there was a conversation between the two of 3 a fragrance brand with flowers at its heart. “We us, and I think we came to the right decision.” clicked. We spent five minutes in the office of this Buterbaugh said the partnership with Puig is [venture capitalist] guy and we were chatting on “like having a very smart big brother. If you have the street for two hours after,” he said. “I worked any questions about anything, you have someone in perfume all my life. So, for me, it was a dream to go to. It feels like we have a safe space to go to 1. Fragile Violet’s purple juice reflects of sorts [to establish a brand], but a dream I had and get advice.” Buterbaugh’s and Croisé’s attention to detail. never entertained. Then, Eric comes into my life, Puig has advised EB Florals to restrain its dis- and he is a walking fragrance story. He has such tribution. Prior to the company’s investment, 2. Sultry Rose is a favorite fragrance of retailers, who call it an unexpected twist on an exquisite knowledge of florals and, with flow- Croisé and Buterbaugh planned to roll the brand “Excellent service is giving your the storied flower. very best to each client.” ers being the first ingredient in fragrances, there out to 50 to 100 doors by the end of 2017. The 3. Perfumer Honorine Blanc’s travels to the is a connection in the minds of everyone. It is so plan today is to limit its retail network to 20 doors Amazonian jungle inspired the mix of notes in obvious.” worldwide by that date. EB Florals is heading to Regal Tuberose, which is centered upon A month after their meeting, Croisé and Buter- Saks’ Toronto store, its first outside the U.S., in tuberose absolute, patchouli and jasmine. baugh began developing EB Florals’ fragrances. May and, three months later, it will make its Eu- They agreed that Firmenich, which Croisé had ropean debut at Bon Marché in Paris. A yet-to-be- worked with previously and held in high regard, determined prestige London department store is MEET THE HONOREE would concoct them. “We told them, ‘You have likely to be the next major retail push. no cost restrictions on ingredients. You can “Building a brand like this requires that, wher- RETAIL SALES work with everything,’” Croisé said. Buterbaugh ever you choose to be present, you can do so chimed in: “We wanted to create the most beau- with a strong statement. This can be done only tiful collection of fragrances ever. We submitted when there is a partnership between retailer and FARIA ISLAM names of flowers that I loved, and that I was brand. We believe that you can only achieve that $300K LANCÔME BEAUTY ADVISOR working with, and also ones that I’m not as crazy strategy with a very exclusive distribution poli- about. Usually, if they are working for a huge fra- cy,” Puig said. Croisé added, “We can restrict our The retail volume sold at Buterbaugh’s L.A. SAKS FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK CITY grance house, that fragrance house does market distribution strategy for three to four years to studio over a six- to seven-month period. research for a year in every country in the world, something that’s very focused, and we can really and they make 200 or 300 changes to their orig- go in-depth where we choose to go. In four years inal recipe. We weren’t operating that way. They from now, we will see.” ■

22 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM To learn more about careers at Lancôme, go to WWW.LANCOME-USA.COM/CAREERS on braided human hair — chosen for its ability to capture odors— provided by David Mallett. “We wanted to have the codes of the 17th cen- tury among our project,” Cloutier said. “We had a lot of fun doing it.” Olivia Bee photographed the modern-day l’habit de parfumeur in the Atelier de Moulage, where major sculptures are restored and reproduced in Paris. “A lot of people say: ‘That’s crazy you left your job as a consultant in M&A and strategy and stuff.’ And I say all the time that I thought half of my brain was used. What we try to do at Nose, [and] for me, it’s as important that the left brain and right brain work together,” Cloutier added. Nose has ventured into the realm of fiction before. In early 2014, it created a fragrance, L’Air de Panache, for the character Ralph Fiennes played in “The Grand Budapest Hotel.” “He never left the hotel room without perfum- ing himself” with it, and journalists were sent the scent, according to Cloutier. “There was no commercialization in this collaboration. It was just to support the launch of the movie and bring reality back in fiction, and fiction back in reality.” At Nose, there’s a seamless melding of artisanal and high-tech elements. Founded almost four years ago as a hybrid online/brick-and-mortar concept, it specializes in personalized fragrance diagnostics generated from a database of more than 9,000 scents spanning from the 18th century to today. Once personalized questionnaires are filled in either online at home or via iPads in store, an olfactive portrait is produced along with recommendations for five scents. One can order samples, too. About 80 percent of Nose’s retail traffic goes online to check out the company’s site before entering the store. Once the diagnosis is done there, a summary of the experience is sent via THANK YOU. Selling Scents e-mail 90 minutes later. “The click-through rate of this is 50 percent, and people go back online after. So they close the We appreciate the partnership of the brands that believed in loop,” he said. Like It’s 1699 There are about 30,000 unique visitors through us from the time we were just a concept. the Nose site each month. On Facebook, almost 16,000 people have indicated they were at Nicolas Cloutier of Nose is dressed the store. The retailer’s strategy reaps financial to sell 21st-century fragrance the rewards, with Nose registering growth of more than 80 percent this year. old-fashioned way. By JENNIFER WEIL Cloutier would not discuss sales figures, but industry sources estimate Nose generates between 1.5 million euros and 2.5 million euros, or $1.7 million and $2.8 million at current exchange, in magine a perfume peddler from the 17th selling scents — raw materials and finished prod- sales annually, and that some 50 percent stems century thrust into today’s world. ucts — carried on an apron. Around that time such from online. Actually, you don’t have to. Just ask people were considered like itinerant shamans. “I think what makes a success in any business is Nicolas Cloutier to make a house call. “We wanted to reproduce this perfumer’s outfit, a recipe of many things,” he said, ticking off ingre- The president and cofounder of Par- but from the 21st century,” Cloutier noted. dients such as technology, creativity, animation Iis-based beauty retailer Nose commis- He commissioned illustrator Damien Florébert and brand selection — to date, there are 70-plus sioned a costume inspired by etchings Cuypers to reproduce the character with a mod- labels at Nose, including Creed, Kilian, Dyptique, from the period that he plans to wear for personal ern-day bent. Accessories designer and perfumer Cire Trudon and Memo. meetings to present the store’s scents, culled from Naomi Goodsir created the costume whose center- Since late last year, Nose has been bolstering travels around the globe. piece is the handmade apron with crocodile detail its cosmetics offering and expects to release its Elements of the getup — encapsulating the that can hold more than 300 vials of fragrance — cosmetics diagnosis by September. executive’s inimitable blend of the archaic and one up, one down, side-by-side in rows. There’s also been a focus on the fragrance diag- the futuristic — include an apron studded with Its colors are in harmony with the Nose store nosis. After starting with four iPads in store there hundreds of vials, perfumed gloves, braids of on Rue Bachaumont. The green of the bowler hat are now 12, but at peak times that’s not enough. human hair — plus an iPad. nods to the jasmine in the boutique’s windows, Staff on Saturdays was also increased from one “A lot of people were asking me to visit them for instance. full-timer (Cloutier) and two interns to six people. — either on a private consultation or at a fashion Cloutier’s character is to wear perfumed gloves But at the most trafficked periods, Nose is reaching fair or different places in the world,” Cloutier made by Maison Fabre and a coat in the shape of its limits. said. “I have always been inspired by dark stuff, a cape especially designed by Dora Zsigmond. “It made us think about new technology in like [‘Perfume,’ the book by] Patrick Süskind, Jack The apron folds and fits inside an alligator-skin order to handle quality and quantities,” he noted. www.BeautyKind.us the Ripper.” bag by Goodsir that also holds an iPad for fragrance “We’re working on a new technology, a new phys- His attention was drawn to 15 etchings by Nicolas diagnosis plus vials of raw perfume materials, ical item, in store.” de L’Armessin called “L’Habit de Parfumeur,” or such as musk infusion, amber gris infusion and That’s expected to be unveiled on June 15, “Perfumer’s Attire,” from 1697 that portray a man champaka red absolute, which can be smelled Nose’s fourth birthday. ■

24 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Photograph by EMMANUEL FRADIN AGENDA

Some of the top as over-the-top, unique pieces from Bond,” she women’s fragrance said. Oldham singled out launches by EB Florals Millennials just about fragrance. Rite Aid, launches of in the Houston, Beverly Hills, San Francisco and Target, CVS and Walgreens Boot the last year. Canadian stores; Ex Nihilo; Prada Olfactories; Diana Seize The Day Alliance are among those touting cosmetics as gifts this year. Vreeland and Serge Lutens. For fall, she pointed to As the younger generation Shadow palettes are hot from offerings from Jo Malone, Nest, Tom Ford, Diptyque enters motherhood, the L’Oréal, Revlon, Maybelline and and Hermès. holiday is being redefined. Cover Girl. The demand for brow Bergdorf Goodman, which has long been a kits is addressed by CVS with a By Faye Brookman fragrance specialist, has put together a bouquet spotlight on Maybelline’s Brow of brands that Pat Saxby, vice president and divi- Drama. The mascara for mom this sional merchandise manager of beauty, described year, said one buyer, is Physicians Add Mother’s Day as an event Formula’s new eye booster Instant “as a new fresh take on rose and florals.” now dominated by Millennials. Doll Lash Extension Kit. The brands include Eric Buterbaugh’s EB With many women born after 1980 According to a Target Florals, Fleur Narcotique by Ex Nihilo, Baccarat entering motherhood, specialty and spokeswoman, the chain sees a Rouge 540 from Francis Kurkdjian, Memo, Roja mass retailers are adapting their lift in premium skin care, fragrance, Dove, Fragrance Kitchen and Diana Vreeland’s assortments for the proclivities of bath and body during this season. Simply Divine. that generation. Millennial moms like The chain’s “beauty concierges” “Lord & Taylor is coming off of a very strong pampering, natural and lines that receive special training on key season for fragrances,” said Shelley Rozenwald, give back. “Luxury is being redefined giftable products and brands to help as environmentally sound as well as shoppers “of all ages” select gifts Hudson’s Bay and Lord & Taylor chief beauty gifts that give back to charity,” one for moms. In true Millennial fashion, fragrances. CVS is offering select adventurer. The top launches at L&T included buyer noted. Target and Cover Girl combine for an Elizabeth Taylor scents, among Bulgari Goldea, Marc Jacobs Decadence, YSL Black With a focus on younger mothers, endcap showing beauty products the best-selling in the mass Opium, Narciso EDT and Tory Burch. Gift sets are retailers hope to churn up a 6 that are “Popular on Pinterest,” to industry, at $19.99 until May 7. also selling strongly at the New York-based store. percent increase over last year’s help find the items to re-create Natalie Eau de Parfum, Meanwhile, “at Hudson’s Bay, we are seeing Mother’s Day. Many were quick to contemporary beauty styles. a scent created by Natalie healthy growth with gift-giving items and value add that even Boomer mothers are Beauty appliances are emerging Wood’s daughter Natasha influenced by the trends fueled by as gift ideas. CVS is featuring the Gregson Wagner to honor her noted. In addition, the dollar has softened a bit sets. We are focused on building assortments younger moms who, in many cases, Beauty 360 Sonic Perfect Pedi to late mom, will be available on against the euro, perhaps helping tourism. where Hudson’s Bay leads in Canada with cos- are their daughters. accomplish spa quality pedicures at NatalieFragrance.com. It is “We are in the game and on deck on several metics and fragrances. We have even intensified Ulta Beauty’s gift guide hits home. Another emerging tool is the an updated twist on Wood’s fronts,” asserted Choueiri. “I am going to get a our service levels in store,” she said. The best-per- upon many of the hot buttons with GloPro by Beauty Bioscience, a micro signature Jungle Gardenia scent. Mother’s Day: share of Mother’s Day.” forming launches include Narciso Poudree, Roz- a collection of products for the needle device designed to help skin Ulta Beauty is highlighting Two of his big hopes are Black Opium by Yves enwald said, adding “Valentino Donna gift sets “natural mom,” including Ahava and appear firmer and make lines and fragrances such as Lancôme Saint Laurent, which ranks number nine in the have been popular, as well as Paco Rabanne Honest Beauty. To pamper mom, wrinkles less noticeable for a more La Vie Est Belle, Gucci Bamboo market after a strong start, and Tender Romance Olympea.” Ulta Beauty is offering Luxe Spa luminous and refined appearance. and Kate Spade Walk On Air. Ulta in a Box. Millennial moms purchase Beauty will offer a free tote bag with by Ralph Lauren, which was launched to strong Gift sets in general have been performing well, A Hint of Fall Mother’s Day is no longer a mixture of classic and new any fragrance purchase of $40. sales a month ago. There also is confidence in the Rozenwald said, adding that the store’s top 10 Lancôme division, where president Suriya Park- selling women’s sets have outpaced last year. ■ Fragrance marketers and retailers head into suwan expects the momentum of Le Vie Est Belle — up 21 percent in sales this year — to roll into fall, Mother’s Day with an eye toward September. aided by an omnichannel advertising campaign By PETE BORN featuring Julia Roberts. Mother’s Day remains a harbinger of buying habits, perhaps because it is surrounded by a swirl of market forces. Naira Aslanian, project manager fter a listless first quarter, hopes Burch stockkeeping unit in Macy’s. on beauty at the Kline Group and project manager are rising that Mother’s Day Much has been made in the industry of the for the toiletries and cosmetics annual report, THE ONLY gift-buying will give the overall explosive growth of premium-priced and artisanal ticked off a plethora of trends. Starting with the U.S. fragrance market a jolt fragrances — those more than $120 a bottle — which luxury and specialty scents of Chanel and Dior, and enliven the business for chalked up an 85 percent gain in units for juice artisanal and personalized brands, and niche BEAUTY AWARDS Athe all-important fall selling sku’s in 2015, while the entire U.S. prestige market scents such as Juliette Has a Gun, then moving season. eked out a paltry 2 percent last year. into layering of different olfactive categories — VOTED ON BY 6,000+ INDUSTRY LEADERS. “If we have a strong Mother’s Day, it would “This has been one of our strongest fragrance sea- which Aslanian said was originated by Jo Malone be nice to have momentum going into the fall sons in years, with much success from gender-neu- — and ending with collections of fragrances, like season,” said Daniel M. Annese, global brand tral fragrances, or those that have a broader offering Mixologie, which are designed to be blended into Join us when the winners are revealed! president of Aramis and Designer Fragrances at of scents,” said Brooke Banwart, vice president and a custom, personalized scent. In addition to the the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. divisional merchandise manager of fragrance at blockbuster successes in the commercial market, The two weeks prior to the American holiday Sephora USA. Hits included multiple offerings from there have been successful flankers and kits of on Sunday usually account for 16 percent of the Tom Ford, Derek Lam and Clean Reserve. small and travel sizes that allow Millennials espe- spring fragrance business, but its significance can But the overall prestige fragrance market got off to cially to experiment. be highly symbolic. “It is an important bellwether a sluggish start, with the exception of the upper-tier Pointing to the stir high-quality fragrances have on how the season is going,” Annese said, adding and e-commerce categories. Estimates of the latest made in specialty retail, Donald Loftus, president that “we would like to see uplift.” growth figures range from 1.1 to 3 percent. of Parlux Ltd. and executive vice president of 2016 BEAUTY INSIDER Lauder has had a good spring so far and Annese Alexandre Choueiri, president of the International Parfumania Inc., suggested the broader market AWARDS LUNCHEON is looking for more, betting on a new dynamic cus- Designer Collections at L’Oréal USA, said despite a should follow suit. “Let’s not do 18 fragrances for tomer, the Millennial shopper, and a strong troika “relatively soft February and March,” the calendar launch, let’s do one and make it special,” he said. of Lauder franchises — Tory Burch, Michael Kors shift of Easter gave a boost to April and buoyed “Instead of pricing it at $48, it could be $60. It and Donna Karan’s family of Cashmere scents. Choueiri’s spirits. “April started very strongly,” he could be good for the industry.” FRIDAY, MAY 13, 2016 Annese described Millennials as much more Saks Fifth Avenue has filled the main floor of its 11AM – Cocktails + Networking involved in scents and much savvier in terms of Manhattan flagship with more than 300 animations 12PM – 2:30PM – Luncheon + Program “olfactive diversity.” He noted, “Where her mother and events, along with the use of 30 windows, to WALDORF ASTORIA, NEW YORK CITY might have worn a signature scent for the year, this power its Glam Gardens beauty promotion, which consumer is “seasonal savvy. She wants a fresher “If we have a strong will run through this month. Kate Oldham, senior fragrance for the spring season.” He pointed out Mother’s Day, it would be vice president and general merchandise manager @CEWinsider that in Tory Burch, one of the fastest-growing of beauty, fragrance, lingerie and swimwear, said #CEWAwards RESERVE YOUR TABLES & TICKETS AT CEW.ORG fragrances in the market — and at Lauder — “we nice to have momentum fragrances “continue to be a vital growth engine” came up with something called Absolu, which is for the beauty business. “For Mother’s Day, the a richer version of the signature scent.” The 100- going into the fall season.” home fragrance and set categories from brands ml. bottle — priced at $130 — is the top-selling Tory Daniel M. Annese, Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. such as Nest and Jo Malone are key drivers, as well

26 MAY 2016, No.1 WWD.COM Photograph by THOMAS IANNACCONE AGENDA Briefs: Retail & Markets

GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY Cost Could Drive Chinese Apparel Jobs to India

May 22 – 25, 2016 I Las Vegas, NV Las Vegas Convention Center & Westgate Hotel O Rising production costs in China could be India’s gain. “Even a 10 percent NICE TO BE LIKED, BUT… We know you attend RECon to network with over 36,000 attendees, increase in Chinese apparel prices could A Chanel Heist create at least 1.2 million new jobs in the participate in education sessions to enhance your professional Indian apparel industry,” the World Bank OThieves in an SUV crashed through the doors of the Chanel boutique in Paris and made off more than 300,000 euro worth of handbags, according to some said in a report. ¶ That’s a big opportunity, development, and meet with over 1,000 exhibitors to make deals. but to capitalize on it, the famously slow- estimates. Perhaps Karl Lagerfeld’s appeal is broader than even he would like. to-move Indian bureaucracy would have We also know you’re wondering who this year’s keynote speakers are. to spring into action. The World Bank BUYING ONE COMPLETE THOUGHT suggested India cut import barriers to SUNDAY ease access for man-made fibers, help $800M “For the first time, develop a domestic man-made fiber retailers are calling OPENING SESSION KEYNOTE industry and promote foreign direct The value of Hanesbrands Inc.’s deal to acquire Earvin Parag Tony investment for apparel. Pacific Brands, Australia’s top underwear us asking to be our and intimate apparel company. distributors again. tterstock “Magic” Khanna Hsieh

ALL ABOUT THE BAGS Johnson Factotum, Zappos HIGH STREET FLAMEOUTS These are high-end its competitors and failed Hermès First-Quarter BHS, Austin Reed Magic Hybrid Reality Sales Trends to keep up with consumers’ department stores and Falter on High St. demands for speed, con- Johnson Leather goods venience and omnichannel there are many. This is +15.5% OA tsunami swept across offers. Enterprises the British high street last The damage looks to the first time, at least week, taking out two heritage be over — at least for the since I’ve been here, brands, British Home Stores moment. “BHS was a one-off MONDAY TUESDAY and Austin Reed, both of situation because of its that this has happened.” which had been retail fixtures debts,” said Paul Thomas, Ready-to-wear Bjørn Gulden, Puma Perfumes Watches for decades up and down senior consultant at the Gary Bobbi and fashion British consultancy Retail -3.5% -3.3% accessories the U.K. Silks and BHS, which retail tycoon Solutions. “Austin Reed Friedman Brown textiles -2.3% -9.5% Sir Philip Green sold for a didn’t move with the times, Restoration Bobbi Brown knockdown price last year, embrace e-commerce or the collapsed into administration, new, younger consumer. It Hardware Cosmetics MARK THE MEGAPHONE the British equivalent of was a victim of the current Facebook Soars Chapter 11, and is still strug- market trends. Marks & OFacebook’s first-quarter gling with a 571 million pound, Spencer has had the same revenues increased 51.9 per- or $822 million, pension fund problem, but John Lewis has cent to $5.4 billion as mobile deficit. Parliamentarians done it well,” he said, referring ad spending spiked. The now plan to grill Green — and to two other British retail Visit www.icscrecon.org for more information and to register. company logged 1.09 billion others — about the crushing stalwarts. “We’re not expect- daily active users in March, pension debt, and it remains ing any more failures at the an increase of 16 percent unclear whether he’ll have to moment — and hopefully that left only one question: pay the money back. there won’t be any. I think we What will be left of the media Austin Reed, the mid- can look at this past week in market when the social giant market British men’s wear isolation.” is done? retailer, simply fell behind — SAMANTHA CONTI Pace/REX/Shu Gregory Guilbault; Gulden by Laure Chanel by Eric Risberg/AP; by AP Images; Zuckerberg by photograph Fiber Factory #RECon16 28 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM AGENDA Facetime With... Johnny Schillereff Founder, chief executive officer and president of Element

O Johnny Schillereff is one of the skate industry’s deep thinkers. This is a guy who named the company’s Costa Mesa, Calif., campus The Branch — fitting for a brand whose logo is a nod to nature. He’s the East Coast kid who started a now-25-year-old business once run by a rowdy group of hooligans, but is now part of Billabong International Ltd. It’s been key to its parent’s revitalization as the broader action sports industry works through contraction and executive shuffling, adjusting to a youth culture screaming for authenticity. Marketing folks call this “being on-brand.” Schillereff sees it as “an analog movement that’s coming and those who get there first will kill it.” — KARI HAMANAKA

We’ve seen plenty of bank- ruptcies lately: PacSun; Sport Chalet’s parent, Quiksilver; American Apparel, and so on. Do they say something about the action sports industry and broader retail? That’s a big one. The consumer’s pretty smart. They have access to a lot of information and they’re able to suss out these brands. If the people driving these brands aren’t part of the culture, no matter what it is — music, art, skateboarding, surfing — this Red Carpet Coverage world no longer accepts that. The brands that are failing, are from the Year’s Premiere Events. trying. But it doesn’t matter how hard you try. If you don’t get it — if you don’t breathe it, live it, know it — you’re not going to be able to make product people want. Customer loyalty is critical when it comes to pricing for Prestige, Praise Is the action sports industry still in reset mode? a generation that’s grown up Some of these brands and with fast fashion. Where’s the businesses are still operating in consumer’s headspace at? this silo like it was 10 or 20 years I’m seeing a shift to loyalty ago. I’m not saying you should and quality and design. That’s another reason why we’re seeing & Privilege be all things to all people, but you should be aware of your a lot of these younger, more nim- surroundings. The retailers and ble brands start to rise because brands that are extremely aware the consumer sees “OK, this is of what’s happening around authentic. This is driven by real them and can be nimble and people who participate or are adapt are going to be successful. iconic in this particular space.” An Advertising Opportunity It’s the brands and organiza- The kids want to buy into authen- tions reluctant and resistant to ticity, technology, innovation change, that’s where the shift is and quality and we’re learning — taking place. relearning — they’re prepared to Cannes Film Festival The CFDA Awards pay for that. Issue: May 11 Issue: May 25 How important is a founder in Ad Close: April 27 Ad Close: May 11 “The kids want terms of authenticity? An unengaged founder is a very, Materials: May 2 Materials: May 16 to buy into very slippery slope for brands driven by heart and passion. I authenticity, think a founder is really critical, especially as you look at brands technology, that are publicly traded, owned innovation by larger organizations or private equity firms. To have a voice of and quality.” reason is critical.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] 30 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Photograph by DEREK WOOD AGENDA

Using live coverage of Coachella from Snapchat and Instagram, ShopStyle perused the fashion trends as well as items that were “most frequently spotted on Data Points festival-going celebs and influencers.” The e-commerce site then correlated the looks with what was trending in Coachella’s Influence searches on its Web site, and found “significant spikes in shopping searches” on key looks. Here, percentage By ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ increases in searches following Coachella. Data and RETAIL 2020 metrics provided by ShopStyle. THE NEW STORE EXPERIENCE Boho Dress Trend Denim Trend Ranked in order RANKED 4. LACE MIDI 5. TIE-DYE of most-searched DRESS DRESS JUNE 14, 2016 / NEW YORK CITY items on ShopStyle. 3. FLORAL 3. DENIM MAXIDRESS 6. WHITE +38% DRESS 2. JEAN CULOTTES JACKET 2. LONG- +69% SLEEVED +17% +16% 4. MOM MAXIDRESS +24% +154% JEANS +57% +71%

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Mykita × Maison Margiela Make a Splash ¬ The early Nineties continue to be a source of inspiration for the eyewear market. But this time, independent sunglass manufacturers are updating the retro styles with a futuristic twist of dramatic flat lenses and ultralight metal frames in a variety of mostly rounded shapes and mirrored effects. By ALEX BADIA

MODEL: BENJAMIN KNAPP AT VNY, GROOMING BY ELLEN GUHIN USING NARS COSMETICS, MARKET EDITOR: LUIS CAMPUZANO

Thom Browne Ray-Ban

Photographs by CLAIRE BENOIST WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 35 Spitfire “Compared to other faux workwear brands who come into the space when it’s hot, we’ve been there since 1922.” Workwear continues to represent 90 percent of the company’s sales and the crux of its focus. “With all the things we produce, the end use is the

AGENDA worker,” he said, “even if he chooses to wear it on a Saturday night to go skateboarding. We still build it to perform on the job.” Dickies now offers a full assortment of apparel Dickies’ Denim and accessories for men, women and children that it either manufactures itself or licenses out. There are 20 categories, ranging from underwear and socks to slippers, but all with performance and comfort attributes. Heritage A percentage of the business is targeted to the medical industry, law enforcement, painters and The Texas-based workwear brand other physically demanding jobs. Since the company got its start in denim, that will aggressively market business remains a priority. Penn said from the Twenties until World War II, the business was five-pocket jeans this fall. “rooted in denim.” But during the war, the U.S. By JEAN E. PALMIERI government “sequestered” the company to make twill uniforms for the troops, he said. Dickies produced nine million twill uniforms and became the “go-to product for twill” — and denim took a backseat. Even though Dickies may be better known today for its twill, the company still produces a “substantial collection of denim.” But while 80 ickies wants a piece of the percent of the overall denim market is five-pocket fashion denim business. models and 20 percent is carpenter or utility, “we “We’ve proven ourselves are flipped opposite,” Penn said. Dickies’ jeans as a workwear brand, but with tool pockets and hammer loops continue to we’re going to be making be “embraced by workers.” The brand’s slogan is: a major push into the five- “If it’s Dickies made, it’s made to work.” pocket part of the busi- With its fashion denim offering, Penn believes ness,” said Michael Penn, what will set Dickies apart from competitors such senior vice president of as Wrangler, Levi’s and Carhartt is that “people marketing and international licensing for the Fort trust the brand name and know we stand by our DWorth, Tex.-based brand. product. It’s a crowded market, but our brand has Its weapon will be what is now called X-Series a distinct advantage.” denim, a line that features boot-cut, skinny, slim While it remains a small part of the business, and tapered fits in lightweight ringspun fabrics and Dickies has also dabbled in collaborations with multiple washes with performance features such companies such as J. Crew, Converse, Spitfire and as reinforced stitching, leather patches and the Urban Outfitters — products that have helped raise brand’s signature X stitch on the left leg. its cool factor. “We’ve been selective partnering “We think these will appeal to a younger cus- with retailers and other brands,” Penn said. As tomer,” Penn said. long as the partners respect Dickies’ heritage Dickies will be making a “very concerted mar- and the products are “on brand,” the company keting push” for the collection for fall, he said, in is game. hopes of gaining a larger share of the five-pocket There’s also the niche 1922 product offering. market. The marketing will talk up the range of Named for the year of its founding, the capsule product offerings and the performance attributes. collection is made up of authentic replicas of Price points will be similar to the workwear garments produced in the early years of William- denim products and will retail in the mid-$20 son-Dickie Mfg. Co., which are manufactured in range. “We’ll always be a value-oriented brand small quantities in the U.S. They are sold in small and very competitive in the marketplace,” Penn “We’re not a flash-in-the-pan boutiques that embrace Made in the U.S. garments said. Distribution will be primarily independent with authentic workwear features. specialty stores as well as midtier and regional company. We’ve The line is made from premium selvage denim department store chains. been making denim the from Cone Denim Mills of North Carolina, and Dickies’ heritage will be one of the major talking includes chambray shirts, barn coats and car- points. whole time and penter jeans. Prices are significantly higher — the It was just after the start of the 20th century chambray shirt, for example, retails for $175. This when C.N. Williamson and E.E. “Colonel” Dickie we have a rightful place.” is the brainchild of Dickies’ archivist Ann Rich- created a “vehicle and harness” business in Bryan, Michael Penn, Dickies ardson, who has a passion for vintage cuts and Tex. That led a few years later to the creation of finishes and has created this project to bring some the U.S. Overall Co., a business that was renamed old styles back to life. Williamson-Dickie Manufacturing Co. in 1922. Its percentage of its sales — and an even larger per- While 1922 may garner press, Penn stressed that claim to fame was the denim bib overall. centage of buzz — comes from more modern collection and the collaborations are just icing Nearly a century later, the privately held com- offerings that have caught the attention of young, on the cake. “It’s not the cornerstone of how we pany is the largest workwear manufacturer in the trendy customers. market the brand.” world with a presence in all 50 states, as well as Whether it’s used in an automotive body shop Instead, the focus will remain on outfitting the South Africa, Australia, Russia, Chile, Japan, Ice- or to stroll the streets of Williamsburg in Brooklyn, worker and promoting the new X-Series, where it land, Canada, Europe and Mexico. N.Y., the Dickies ethos hasn’t changed. The com- hopes to gain a foothold. Dickies-branded khaki pants, bib overalls, jeans, pany remains committed to providing the wearer “We’re not a flash-in-the-pan company,” Penn fire-resistant uniforms and footwear remain a with a quality garment that will perform on the job. said. “We’ve been making denim the whole time mainstay for the blue-collar worker, but a growing “That is our DNA and our heritage,” Penn said. and we have a rightful place.” ■

36 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Illustration by KYLE FEWELL WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 37 AGENDA AGENDA Briefs: Men’s Model Call: Darius Johnson NEW RELEASE Pin O With just one year under his belt, fresh face Darius Johnson has already Party had his share of attention in the O To mark fashion industry, from walking in the the launch of fall Givenchy show to appearing in its first shop, the latest Gap ad campaign. Johnson which opens talks about his idols and reveals his this week dream travel destination. in Brooklyn, By LUIS CAMPUZANO Photograph by ADRIAN MESKO Pintrill has released If you weren’t a model, want to have that same what would you do? experience. When you’re four pins that RADAR things forward,” said John- I would like to think acting. a model, you travel so will be available Tailoring 2.0 son. He’s instead focused on But then again I studied often and it’s always so exclusively relaxed, well-priced pieces economics in college last-minute. My agent will A WOMAN’S TOUCH O Patrick Johnson isn’t the — his bespoke suits retail so I would probably be call me and let me know I what do you do for fun? in-store. archetypal tailor. Although around $1,500 — that are working at a bank. It would have to go to Miami or to I like going to the gym and I — ARIA HUGHES he spent seven years layered with functional inno- be boring in comparison. San Francisco, but that’s Kathryn Sargent I worked at a bank before all work. I want to go on my like lifting weights. You get training under English vation. And while the tailored I started modeling and own time, not someone Breaks Into a feel of empowerment and shirtmaker Robert Emmett clothing industry is in a state I hated it; it was a total else’s. strength that I like. It’s about before launching his own of flux, Johnson believes his desk job, looking at charts The Boys Club a year and a half since I Australia-based bespoke concept fills a need. “There’s all day. I was not into it at What are you currently started lifting, deadlifting and line, P. Johnson Tailors, in custom product at the low all. It’s a good thing I’m a obsessed with? O Kathryn Sargent broke a dream. Coming through the doing squats. You get a little 2008, he’s not gunning for a end and high end, but there’s model. The SoundCloud app. the British tailoring mold as ranks and training here on bit fixated about trying to lift spot on Savile Row and he’s very little in the middle. I see a I’m into these kids and What is the craziest teenagers who are the first female to set up the street it is a real sense heavier weights every time. not interested in re-creating huge opportunity for growth,” experience you’ve had making rap songs in their shop in London’s Savile Row. of accomplishment to come Anything else? the past. “I’m about pushing Johnson said. — A.H. so far while modeling? bedrooms. They are 17 and From royals and politicians back and open a shop here. I am quite a foodie. I love Every day something they are really disrupting to bold-face names such as Who are some of the discovering new restaurants. crazy happens, but what the rap game. I find it very David Beckham, Sargent has famous people you’ve I dine out once or twice a STAT did blow me away was the cool that there are people dressed a range of figures dressed? week. I like the Polo Bar at Givenchy after-party. It out there wanting to break in her career. No stranger to It’s a bit like going to the the Westbury hotel and the was so wild — the craziest barriers. Savile Row, the 41-year-old doctor; you can’t really talk restaurant at the Beaumont party I have ever been to. Who are your idols? master tailor was the first about individual people as hotel. My friends run a If you could travel to Raf Simons and Dries woman to become a head such. Part of the reason they restaurant in Ealing, near one place right now, Van Noten are my fashion cutter in 2009, working at are coming to you is for the where I live, called the Wal- where would it be? idols. Style icons I would Gieves & Hawkes for 15 years discretion so we don’t talk pole. It is such a great neigh- Buenos Aires. A friend say Steve Jobs, Bill Clinton before launching her own about our clients unless they borhood restaurant and I am 27M of mine went there when and his jogging wear from bespoke label in 2012. Here, are deceased. there quite a lot. There is this he was 18 and was there the Nineties. It’s a random she talks about her Savile Have you ever had an Japanese restaurant called for a month. He told me image, but I love it. it was life-changing. I Row career, lifting weights uncomfortable experience Roka in Charlotte Street in The number of likes on Instagram during What did you feel and her interest in carpentry. during a fitting, like a mar- Mayfair, I love Japanese food the fall shows of New York Fashion Week: Men’s in January. when you saw yourself — LORELEI MARFIL riage proposal? as well. in the Gap ad? * SOURCE: FASHION GPS AND CFDA STUDY No, never had a marriage If you weren’t a master They don’t tell you when How does it feel to be the proposal — wish I had! It tailor what would you do? it comes out, so I literally

first female to set up a depends on the individual I would be a carpenter INTERNATIONAL went to a Gap store and shop on Savile Row? — some people are very because I love marquetry. Lardini Rolls steel and aluminum, the I saw it there for the first I’m the first female trained interested in you and what If you go to some palaces headphones feature time and I was in awe. It was overwhelming, to be and qualified tailor to have you are doing and your or beautiful homes, you can Out Retail cowhide leather on the honest. her name above the door, career, and with others, it is see the design works all cut O High-end men’s wear label EXPANDING headband exterior and THE REACH so to set up a shop here really about the suit and the out like parquet flooring. I am Lardini has inked an agree- earcup, while lamb- feels pretty special. This has job at hand. obsessed by parquet flooring ment with Shinsegae Interna- Blue Steel skin has been used

always been an ambition and When you’re not working because it is about precision. tional to expand in Korea. The Style on the headband Age: company’s first boutique has interior and ear 23 opened in Seoul’s Gangnam pads. Height: 6’3” district and chairman Andrea The Parisian LUXURY Hair: Lardini said the plan is to add boutique will Black 11 stores in five years. exclusively stock the New Eyes: Designer Doings The 648-square-foot York-based audio company’s Brown Hometown: O The Milan men’s calendar continues to be in flux. The store is located within the limited-edition headphones Boston most recent dropout is Bottega Veneta, which will Shinsegae department store in the bold hue. They retail Agency: and has a “Seventies retro from 259 pounds, or $377, IMG hold its men’s and women’s shows together in September. Instagram: style,” said Lardini, with blue O Listen up, audiophiles. Mas- for the MH30 on-ear model, _dariusjohnson That comes on top of the departures of Andrea Pompilio and yellow glass panels, oak ter & Dynamic has teamed to 319 pounds, or $464, for from Canali, Stefano Pilati from Ermenegildo Zegna, wood floors and burnished with Colette to release the the over-ear ones. They will steel finishings. The brand’s MH40 over-ear and MH30 be available on May 16 for Brendan Mullane from Brioni and Massimiliano Giornetti first store in Milan will open on-ear headphones in cobalt purchase in-store and online.

from Salvatore Ferragamo. by Christmas. — LUISA ZARGANI blue. Designed in stainless — L.M. Glen Allsop by Johnson Tailors Thomas Iannaccone; P. Pintrill by Jonathan Hordle/REX/Shutterstock; by photograph Sargent

38 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 39 “I think she has an eccentric style; she looks at unusual fashion and is not afraid of color or print. I think she wants clothes to reflect her per- sonality,” says David. After meeting through social media, they collabo- rated on his spring 2015 collection video, in which Kochetkova pirou- ettes on a basketball court. “I know some people find it not nor- mal, but for me [wearing my clothes] is just like wearing jeans and T-shirts is for other people,” Kochetkova says of her unconventional taste. In marching to her own beat sar- torially, it would make sense that Kochetkova has charted a career that also diverges from the norm. Maria Kochetkova wears an Trained at the Bolshoi Ballet Acne coat, a shirt from her label Koche-Kova, Massive school, Kochetkova’s diminutive Gay shorts and Marni shoes. stature drew displeasure from more uniform instructors. Possessing an uncanny sense of self-conviction, she entered in the Prix de Lausanne youth competition without her school’s knowledge, preparing three routines that ultimately won her an apprenticeship with the Royal Twirling in ABT’s Ballet in London. She broke from Flatiron studios the Bolshoi tradition in decamping wearing a dress by from Russia at age 18 to move to the Henrik Vibskov. U.K. — even though she barely spoke English. Kochetkova was not hired back by herself big onstage, she has a very San Francisco for a single evening’s “You can find inspiration for what you do the Royal Ballet after her apprentice- generous way of moving and is in- performance of “Romeo & Juliet,” ship. “A lot of people give up because credibly flexible almost to a gymnas- returning to New York the following in art forms and people that surround they get fired from their first job. I just tic proportion and uses that in a very morning to resume her seven-hour-a- remember how I felt — I think it’s im- artistic way,” Christopher Wheeldon, day rehearsal schedule. you — it doesn’t need to always come portant [for young dancers] to know who has choreographed numerous She appears in ABT’s Flatiron from working in the studio all day. I like that it’s not the end of the world if you new works on Kochetkova, says of studio displaying a physical and don’t get rehired after your first year,” her dancing. “She is a very curious emotional exhaustion that leaves her meeting people that inspire me to look she says of the experience, which young lady, a very interesting danc- postured frame in an unlikely slump. for different things.” led to a stint at the English National er,” he adds. The Russian facet of her personality Ballet soon after. Known as “Masha” to her friends, presents itself as she trods down the After spending time with that com- Kochetkova’s versatility enables her hall — feet in turnout — with a gruff The dancer wears a shirt by Gosha Rubchinskiy pany, she was appointed principal to seamlessly and gracefully move reserve. with her rehearsal tutu and shoes by Acne. by the San Francisco Ballet in 2007 between classical and contem- Although Kochetkova is in many — the audition marked her first-ever porary works. She has been cast ways different than the typical bal- trip to the U.S. in a diverse range of roles for the lerina, having grown up in the craft, In 2013, Kochetkova carved out ABT’s spring full-length season at facets of her personality are aligned time to take a rare vacation to the the Metropolitan Opera, beginning with other dancers. Isolated? No. But Venice Biennale, where she received May 9 — Kochetkova’s first as an artistically tempered with a near-ri- a phone call from ABT’s artistic official principal. For this, she will gidity? Most definitely. She comman- director Kevin McKenzie asking her add three full-length narratives to deers the photo shoot in the vein of a to jump into the Odette/Odile role her repertoire: “Sylvia,” “Le Corsaire” seasoned creative director. of “Swan Lake” to replace an injured and Alexei Ratmansky’s “The Golden “She is very hard on herself but dancer. “I would do class in my room Cockerel.” also her surroundings, which some- every day and try to concentrate Kochetkova nonchalantly de- times creates a conflict, but it’s because I had to fly to New York Barre None Maria Kochetkova scribes her multigenre aptitude as always geared toward a final goal. straight from Venice,” she recalls. “necessary for being a 21st-century She is very opinionated in a good Her relationship with ABT evolved, dancer.” way, which makes her perform at her and last spring she was appointed “I find this one of the most inter- best,” says Simkin, who adds that he a full-time principal dancer — in esting aspects of my job. I feel very would describe Masha as “having a addition to her duties at SFB, she Finds Inspiration In the Arts lucky to live in this time and work in lot of substance.” would travel the U.S. performing with America — I don’t have anyone telling After changing her clothing, an elite contingent of dancers like me, ‘Oh you’re only good for this part,’ Kochetkova walks into a studio herself. By MISTY WHITE SIDELL She moves in like-minded, jet-set- “She wants to be inspired and While it would appear that a good which is [the mind-set] I grew up with wearing a lime green Acne over- “It’s been very important to me Maria Kochetkova — a principal ting fashion and art circles, which stimulated through other mediums, deal of her mind space is allotted to in Russia. [In the U.S.], I’ve only been coat, a pair of white gym shorts by because I realized I wasn’t dancing dancer with both the San Francisco include the likes of musician Dev and probably integrates it back thoughts of fashion, art and film, the pushed to do parts I didn’t think were Japanese label Massive Gay and to my full potential — I wasn’t aware Ballet and the American Ballet The- Hynes, Julien David and graffiti-art- into her own specialty in a way that core of Kochetkova’s life still very right for me.” a T-shirt from her own line, Koche- of it because I don’t think I was ever atre — breaks from the convention ist-turned-hotelier André Saraiva. nourishes and feeds her own creativ- much revolves around dance. She Her diverse interests and ac- Kova, tucked in. She launched the pushed. It was a really important of a cloistered ballerina. The Russian When in San Francisco, she’ll jaunt ity,” says Julien David, who counts is deeply emotional about her roles tivities are carefully documented line last year, hand-scrawling and experience for me. I keep discovering export is “obsessively” devoted to south to Los Angeles for a few hours Kochetkova as a friend and muse. and “very committed to her work to a on her social media accounts, all screenprinting shirts with quotes new things I didn’t know about my- ballet, according to her friends, but to attend dinner parties hosted by Kochetkova is particularly excited good obsessive degree,” according cheekily named @balletrusse in by her favorite authors — Sappho, self,” she says. in the after hours socially cross-pol- Purple magazine editor Olivier Zahm. about San Francisco’s reinvigorated to fellow ABT principal, friend and homage to the historical traveling Pushkin and Emily Dickinson among With 10 to 12 years potentially linates herself among myriad visual “You can find inspiration for what contemporary art scene, where this sometimes roommate Daniil Simkin. company. Instagram has proven an them. She had the well-entrenched left in her dance career, it seems art forms — while boosting that of you do in art forms and people that month’s opening of a new Gagosian Hours are devoted to contorting her especially powerful medium, where downtown photographer Magnus exciting that Kochetkova is nearing her own. surround you — it doesn’t need to Gallery and the unveiling last week body in rehearsal studio mirrors to she’s amassed more than 139,000 Unnar shoot promotional images. A the doorstep of her next chapter. An eccentric dresser who drapes always come from working in the of the renovated San Francisco refine and elongate its lines. followers. few styles have sold out. The obvious choice would be for her her elfin frame in bright patterns, studio all day. I like meeting people Museum of Modern Art signal the It’s that practice, coupled with an On the eve of meeting with WWD, The majority of Kochetkova’s days to meld her interests into a single clashing colors and unconventional that inspire me to look for different city’s surge of tech wealth. “I’m happy exceptional onstage strength and Kochetkova had Instagrammed a are spent in rehearsal attire and occupation. “I think being artistic silhouettes, Kochetkova styles her things,” Kochetkova says of her ar- that the money is turning into the bravura, that leaves many theater short video of “Star Wars’” R2D2 pointe shoes. But in her free time, director in a way combines so many hair into a doll-like side part and plas- tistic ethos. care and appreciation of art,” she patrons surprised to discover that tipping over onto its face — likening she trades her Sanshas for Acne different art forms together — there ters her dainty face with oversize Considering ballet’s near-incestu- says of the socioeconomic shift, she actually only measures a slight the robot’s physical faltering to her oxfords or Marni platforms; basket- is so much potential, it could be eyeglasses that recall those of Iris ous nature, it’s remarkable that she’s which will bring artists like Paul Klee, five feet tall. own exhaustion. That week — in ball shorts and Uniqlo leotards for something with fashion, filmmakers, Apfel (the supplier of which she is so determined to socialize outside of Joseph Beuys and Diane Arbus to a “For such a small dancer, she between learning the three narra- Jacquemus, Gosha Rubchinskiy and directors,” she says. “There are

desperate to uncover). dance’s ivory tower. Silicon Valley-moneyed audience. is incredibly powerful, she makes TYRH tives — Kochetkova had flown to Julien David. endless possibilities.” ■

40 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM Photographs by JILLIAN SOLLAZZO WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 41 THE MET GALA

The Big Met

MachineThe greatest mechanism on display Monday night was not encased in glass. By Taylor Harris

Lady Gaga in Photographs by LEXIE MORELAND, MICHAEL BUCKNER and AURORA ROSE Atelier Versace.

42 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM THE Zayn Malik in MET Versace and Gigi Hadid in Tommy GALA Hilfiger.

One could consider Monday night’s Met Ball a bait and switch of sorts. With the theme “Manus x Machina: Fashion In An Age of Technology,” the natural assumption of attendees was that the echo-ey galleries of the museum’s Costume Institute would be filled with gleaming gizmos, gadgets, LED lights and Siri-esqe robotics — the latest wonders of circuitry that would turn the museum into something rivaling Tomorrowland. The sponsor was Apple, after all, the coolest tech company in the world. Instead, the exhibition’s focus was technique and garment application — the quiet, hidden-between-the- seams wonders of laser-cutting, hand work and technical appliqués. The concept isn’t tech-y per se, but rather a compendium of how the two — man and machine — meld together to create

fashion artistry. ►

44 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 45 THE Naomi Campbell MET in Roberto Cavalli with Peter GALA Dundas outside the Standard hotel.

So perhaps it was forgivable that so many of those trooping the Met steps misfired in the sartorial ranks as they desperately strove to hit the ostensibly futuristic theme (and trend on Instagram). There were enough Kevlar-looking outfits to fill the International Space Station, along with astronaut-clunky boots, robot- mimicking trims and broad shoulders straight out of “Lost in Space.” Few seemed to catch the irony. That of the juxtaposition between the exhibition’s focus — on the artistry of fashion and its timeless craftsmanship — and the screaming paparazzi desperate to get shots of a Jenner or Kardashian and Dakota Fanning in Nina Ricci with Guillaume instantly trasmit them to the global Henry. masses. Fashion is on an atomic accelerator — evidence ranges from the buy-now-wear-now movement to the totally structureless fashion calendar to the prospect of ticketed shows, all suggesting free fall. And if the industry is overheating, the Met Ball is the molten hot nucleus, a celebration of our global warming, if you will. It was apparent in the last few minutes of the first Monday in May that the Balmain atelier, for one, had apparently been in a veritable microwave the week prior. “Ugh,” a rheumy-eyed public- relations rep for the house sighed by the bar of the Gilded Lily. “We dressed 12

people. We were up ’til 3 [a.m.] last night.” ►

MEASURING THE MET

Emily Ratajkowski in Prabal Gurung 2.1M The number of tweets hashtagged #MetGala between 6 and 10:30 p.m. Monday. with the designer. 46 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 THE MET GALA

Kylie Jenner in Beyoncé in Kim Kardashian Balmain. Givenchy. and Kris Jenner in Balmain at the brand’s after party.

The Boom Boom Room, typically the coda to his own talents more thoroughly than any the Met Ball evening, was a members-only other guest. Jaden Smith and his girlfriend affair (read: no press) this year. So Olivier Sarah Snyder made out in the opposite Rousteing, a lover of press, threw his own corner while a fleet of Balmain-uniformed bash around the corner. (read: sleek, high-ponytailed and tight, It was 11:50 p.m. and the unofficial superstructured micro-minidress-dressed) monarchs of the Balmain nation had arrived models bobbed around tables of ice buckets in all their sparkly sequined splendor. Kanye and Champagne. Beyoncé arrived 30 West, Kim Kardashian, Tyga and Kris Jenner, minutes later and curled up to Rousteing in a each encrusted in Rousteing sheen, held nearby booth. Snapchatters tried to capture court in a corner banquette of the thumping the tête–à–tête but Bey’s bodyguards ruined club. West snapped gum and nodded his the shots, showering the crowd of iPhones head emphatically as his latest album with beaming flashlights. Score one for the blared over the speakers, seeming to enjoy Luddites. ■

Madonna in Givenchy. 1.8x The Uber surge rate outside the Standard hotel at midnight. WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 49 THE Claire Danes in MET Zac Posen with the designer. GALA

Steven Klein with Cindy Crawford in Balmain at the brand’s after party.

Lupita Nyong’o in Calvin Klein Collection.

61,955 The number of “likes” Madonna’s Instagram pre-Met Ball “No f--ks to give” post accrued by press time. $25,000 The price of a single ticket to the Met Ball. $250,000 The price for a table of 10.

50 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 51 THE MET Rita Ora in Vera Wang with the GALA designer.

Calvin Klein and Donna Karan

Nicki Minaj in Moschino with Jeremy Scott.

Bette Midler in Marc Jacobs with the designer.

Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen

Donatella Versace in her design outside the Standard hotel. 40 How many minutes after the scheduled conclusion of the cocktail hour that Beyoncé arrived. WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 53 THE Idris Elba in Tom MET Ford outside the Standard hotel. GALA

Saoirse Ronan in Christopher Kane outside the Standard hotel. THE Poppy MET Delevingne in Marchesa. GALA

Jessica Dakota Johnson, Florence Chastain in Welch and Charlotte Prada. Keith Urban with Casiraghi in Gucci with Nicole Kidman in Alessandro Michele. Alexander McQueen. Emma Stone in Prada.

Rosie Huntington- Whiteley in Ralph Lauren Collection.

Taylor Swift in Louis Vuitton. 11 The number of Met guests Louis Vuitton dressed. WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 5ĝ THE Alicia Vikander MET in Louis Vuitton with Nicolas GALA Ghesquière.

Kendall Jenner in Atelier Versace.

Hailey Baldwin in Balmain outside the Standard hotel.

Blake Lively in Burberry with Christopher Bailey.

Kim Kardashian Karlie Kloss in and Kanye Brandon Maxwell West in and Irina Shayk in Balmain. Givenchy. Diplo and Kate Kylie Jenner in Hudson outside Balmain with the Standard Olivier Rousteing hotel. at the brand’s after party.

Jamie Bell and Kate Mara outside the Standard hotel.

4 The number of dresses Olivier Rousteing created for Kim Kardashian for the evening. 1 The number of dresses Kim Kardashian wore. 5Ğ MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 5ğ THE MET Report Card: Bippity Boppity Boo GALA Designers might not have had magic wands FAIL they could wave to get B+ Madonna their dates ball-ready A- A+ Claire DWho let her on Monday night, but Saoirse Nicole Danes on the carpet Ronan Kidman with crimped their creations came DWell, hello there hair? The braid- in all sorts of interpre- DThe slicked back DKidman does Cindy. Zac Posen’s ed-crown-head- hair allows the stun- ice queen well. Her 21st century fairy piece combo feels tations — some more ning featherwork to porcelain skin looks godfather job too young and shine, but we wish flawless and the was the talk of festival-leaning. magical than others. her makeup artist cream blush gives the evening — and used more restraint her definition and DMadge was Instagram. when it came to that warmth. letting it all hang winged eyeliner. DYes, this could be out. The boobs, the DTo some, the seen as a bit too on- thonged butt, the DIn a sea of metal- crown may feel a bit the-nose, but she’s nipple tape, the lic appliqués and sil- “GoT” but we dig it. the belle of the ball. thigh bondage. It all ver sequins, the soft Bow down plebs. Look at that waist. feels, well, a bit sad. feathers feel fresh Her dress, which Like she’s desper- and youthful. The DThis starry glowed with tiny ate to reclaim the abstract shoulder celestial approach woven-in lights and spotlight. She may shape and armor- was a different had its full effect in have had “no f--ks to like neckline add a interpretation of the dark, twinkled on give,” but we sort of subtle futurism. the night’s theme well past the stroke wish she’d given at and this beadwork of midnight. least one. DThe furry trim is spectacular. The at the hemline is cape adds a wel- strange — it looks come drama factor. like she has some Plus, her bod looks sort of critter hiding fantastic. under there.

A D C- Alexander Will.i.am C Skarsgard Kanye West Sarah DThe novelty top Jessica DThis Balmain DSkarsgard got hat with visor might Parker meets “Night of the the memo that the be very useful to Living Dead” look way to succeed at protect against is the definition of the Met red carpet DWhoa — is she flashes or conceal fashion victim. is to stick to an auditioning for a any level of intoxica- elegant traditional tion, but it doesn’t stint on “Hamilton?” DWest is on trend dress code. elevate his fashion Her outfit clashed with the metallic pedigree. harder than Aaron silver jacket, but the DThe flawless Burr and Alexander slouchy silhouette is hair styling echoes The metallic neck Hamilton. When it D not flattering on his old Hollywood and piece is very “Star comes to Parker’s boxy frame. His tor- works with his angu- Trek” and pushes Met Ball ensembles, so is screaming for lar facial structure. the look into more it can go so many a structured tailored costumey. The ways, but one thing’s At 6 feet 4 inches, black jacket. D embroidery sleeves for sure: she goes all his “Tarzan”-ready are pretty, but in. This year, though, DThe ripped light muscular frame is together with the was a miss. This vin- blue jeans and not the easiest to other elements, it tage-inspired men’s suede boots come dress, but this peak becomes too much suiting look falls across as too casu- lapel one-button to handle. He might closer to “costume” al for the Met. And black tuxedo is the need a Chamomile than Costume the contact lenses, Rex/Shutterstock by Photographs perfect slenderizing tea to calm down. Institute. well, we just can’t. sartorial choice.

79,370 The number of Instagram posts under the hashtag #MetGala2016 by press time. 30 The number of microcurrent batteries that powered Claire Danes’ illuminated Zac Posen gown. 60 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 61 THE Issey Miyake’s Noa Raviv is a MET colorful “Flying fan of 3-D Saucer” dress software. Here, GALA Sarah Burton from the spring two of her hoped this 1994 collection. black-and-white, Alexander 3-D-printed McQueen spring polymer 2012 machine and creations by hand-sewn nude Stratasys silk lace bonded designs. with laser-cut black patent leather (far left) would look like a coral skeleton. Iris van Herpen’s spring 2015 machine-sewn, laser-cut, bonded navy patent leather dress. Manus x Machina The Costume Institute exhibition proves that when it comes to fashion, the man-made and the machine-made can — and will continue to — coexist.

By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Photographs by ELI SCHMIDT

Above: Proenza Schouler’s ensemble of machine-sewn, black silk chiffon, hand-embroidered with silver plastic paillettes; with a skirt hand-punched with silver and white metal grommets (left). Iris van Herpen Iris van Herpen’s is known to favor machine-sewn, 3-D printing, black twill dress laser-cutting and with hand-painted labor-intensive polyurethane resin techniques. Above, and iron filings two of her designs. hand-sculpted with magnets.

Saint Laurent’s bridal wreath, A closer look at a bracelet and 2012 Alexander anklet handmade McQueen gown by with pink and gold Sarah Burton silk flowers and made by both leaves by Lemarié hand and machine. from spring 1999.

$135,000 The price tag of the Tiffany & Co. fringe earrings worn by Emily Ratajkowski.

62 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM MAY 2016, No. 1 63 MARKETPLACE

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Truncated Trunk Be Fashion See What’s First Forward Recently, I passed the BCBG Max Azria store In Fashion Stay up-to-date on new analysis, trends, in Midtown and saw a window tableau of three Join More Than 100K + People mini trunks, very similar to Ghesquière’s in size, and vital information on the industry look and trim-and-hardware detailing. Though Who Follow Us On Instagram all in solids (blue, yellow, luggage brown) as Subscribe today at wwd.com/subscriptions opposed to a monogram, the reference was unmistakable. I was appalled. I later learned that Sam Edelman has a similar bag in its fall collection. But is the case of a shrunken trunk about flattery or theft, evolution or devolution? Isn’t everything about adaptation and interpreta- tion? Ghesquière was inspired by founder Louis’ steamer trunk. My grandmother had a (far less grand) packing crate with her on the boat to Ellis Island. Who can claim the trunk? Ghesquière? Louis Vuitton? My grandmother? I quite like the above italicized paragraph. I like it a lot. It’s very smart. It’s also stolen, the final graph of a story on knockoffs that Michael Gross wrote in The New York Times 30 years “Honey, I shrunk the steamer trunk!” ago. I didn’t copy exactly — how could I? Gross’ story centered on a famous cabbage rose sweater, “So did I!” the original of which was designed by Jean Paul Gaultier (or did Gaultier steal from Crolla?). My graph blends Gross’ own words with a quote he “Me, too!” used from the late, inimitable Bernie Ozer.* For a journalist, such theft carries risk. To run that graph sans attribution, I’d have to assume HE TRUNK in question is by Louis Vuitton. that no other long-ago reader would remember it, and Gross wouldn’t see it. Should said assump- The first shrinkage: Fabulous, conceptualized tions backfire, I’d be fired. Were I a student caught in a similar situation, I’d fail the assignment and and created by the one designer with the probably be suspended or expelled. In either case, journalist or student, fear of getting caught Upcoming 2016 Opportunities unquestionable legal and intellectual property shouldn’t be the deterrent. You’re on an honor T system; plagiarism is intellectually dishonest. Visit pmc.com/wwd for details. rights to do. That would be Vuitton’s Nicolas In fashion, that most creative of commercial disciplines, siphoning from another’s intellectual 2016 Edit Calendar Ghesquière, who for fall 2014 had the daring idea, brilliant property is too often A-OK. This is not to rage against creative use of inspiration; appropriation ISSUE ISSUE ISSUE ISSUE in its obvious-but-never-done construct, to super-shrink the has been part of fashion forever, and plays an essential role. So much so that I feel lazy in recy- May 18 May 25 June 7 [Tues] June 15 cling the old Coco Chanel line that those who insist RECon Vegas Jewelry Show Preview Fragrance Foundation Awards Domestic Tradeshow Calendar classic Vuitton trunk — make that the iconic (a word we at CFDA Awards Preview Evolution of the In-Store Men’s Milan Preview upon their own originality have bad memories. Men’s Outerwear LA Times Distribution Experience WWD do not drop casually) trunk, designed by the house Still, some “appropriation” feels wrong. CLOSE 06.01 / MATERIALS 06.06 CLOSE MATERIALS Particularly now, with fast fashion nipping so 05.04 / 05.09 CLOSE 05.11 / MATERIALS 05.16 CLOSE 05.24 / MATERIALS 05.27 founder in 1800-whatever. Ghesquière turned the grand relentlessly at the heels of the luxury sector. In my quest for more Petite Malle malefactors, a packing crate, crafted to withstand bumpy carriage rides Google search revealed Purse Valley and AAA ISSUE ISSUE ISSUE ISSUE Replicas, two Web sites dedicated to delivering June 22 July 13 July 20 August 3 line-for-line knockoffs. Pick your favorite: Vuit- and bumpier ocean crossings, into a 7.1-by-4.7-by-1.6-inch Men’s Milan Recap Miami Swimshow Men’s NYFW Recap Olympics Issue ton? Céline? Fendi? Prada? These sites exist to NYFW Men’s Preview ‘A’ in Focus bag, a hard box that fits little beyond the essentials — phone, fake people out — Canal Street online. At Purse Berlin FW Preview Berlin FW Recap Intimates Lollapalooza TAW Valley, the Web site brags, “Our replica hand- CLOSE 06.08 / MATERIALS 06.13 CLOSE 07.20 / MATERIALS 07.25 credit card, keys and perhaps a lipstick. He called it the Petite bags, fake watches and accessories collections CLOSE 06.29 / MATERIALS 07.04 CLOSE 07.06 / MATERIALS 07.11 are vast and discerning at the same time, both Malle (shown above). So chic. in matters of brands and designs. There is a ►

64 MAY 2016, No. 1 WWD.COM For advertising inquiries, please contact Shannon Fitzgerald | 323-617-9094 | [email protected] WWD.COM MAY No. 1, 2016 65 wide selection of high-end brands on our site and a diversity of replica models. We make sure to offer the best quality replicas on the market.” From AAA Replicas: “Unlike the cheap fake bags CEO SUMMIT that are available at other Web sites, we choose to manufacture to the specifications, details and quality our customers expect….This attention OCTOBER 25 – 26, 2016 X NEW YORK CITY to detail means that our Louis Vuitton bags are genuine leather, just like the real handbags. It also means our Christian Dior replicas have the same charms, making every one of our replica bags an exact copy of the original.” It’s so flagrant, I thought that perhaps the use of the word “replica” — the admission of copy- ing — makes the copying legal. Absolutely not, according to Robert Tucker, partner at Tucker & Latifi, a boutique law firm specializing in intellectual property issues. “It’s totally illegal,” Tucker said. After clicking through Purse Valley, he noted that the site ships goods from China and doesn’t use PayPal, lessening the possibility of freezing assets. “The counterfeiters are getting smarter. It’s difficult to track them down, and they’re getting paid through a traditional means [individual credit card numbers] that’s difficult to track.” He said conducting business online allows counterfeiters to send directly to the consumer rather than in bulk shipments that might raise red flags at border control. “They’re RE shipping the goods so they can’t be tracked, and that’s how they’re operating with impunity.” Tucker made me feel a little stupid. I’ve been doing this long enough to recall a 30-year-old Bernie Ozer quote that impressed me (though, thank God, not long enough to have forgotten Particularly so here because, like the Birkin, the it). Yet I had no clue about replica sites. Tucker Petite Malle achieves that rare fusion of fashion suggested Googling the single word, “replica.” currency and lofty historical resonance. FRAMING The fifth entrée is a watch site flaunting copies Without that connection (one Purse Valley of most major brands. fakes with some success, if the Web site photos FASHION & RETAIL Though shocked by the audacity, I get the are accurate), what’s the allure of a tiny trunk- point. These sites exist to deliver merch that shaped handbag? Will the BCBG Max Azria tricks the eye: Can’t afford a real four-figure version at $188 and the Sam Edelman (price Petite Malle? In seven to 10 days, according to unknown) resonate with the customer on the a woman I spoke with at Purse Valley customer strength of their unoriginal utilitarian design? service, you can have a ringer for $299, and let There was a time when knockoff kings wore the observer tell the difference. that distinction proudly. In the Times article, the While such bags may be fake, their purpose unapologetic Jack Mulqueen told Gross, “We stand isn’t. Nor is there anything cryptic about the Visually interesting though up and say we do it….We’re Robin Hoods.’’ ABS’ mission of the sites that sell them. More curious it is, as with most status Allen B. Schwartz still does. He found his look- is overt appropriation by reputable brands. (On at-a-price niche years ago and runs with it. Five Monday, the Supreme Court agreed to hear the bags, part of the appeal years ago, he boasted to WWD about how quickly suit between Star Athletica LLC and Varsity his version of Kate Middleton’s bridal gown would Brands Inc., producers of cheerleading uniforms, is in the label. Particularly get to market (albeit with polyester swapped in for that could have copyright ramifications for the so here because like the Sarah Burton’s silk). He readied the sample in a day fashion industry.) I get it — to a degree. Chanel’s for immediate order and delivery two months out. quilted leather crossed over years ago — or was Birkin, the Petite Malle There’s something to be said for bringing high- pulled over — into the public domain of handbag end design concepts to a broader market, and pushers. And all up and down the fashion food achieves that rare fusion more to be said for “owning it,” if that’s your chain, brands will hop on a hot-item bandwagon, of fashion currency and approach. Sam Edelman and Max and Lubov for example, that of Céline’s gusseted Tribute Azria declined comment. bag. As with adolescent wrongdoing, there’s at lofty historical resonance. least some dissipation of culpability in the go-to rationalization that everybody’s doing it. Sincerest flattery? Sam Edelman (above) and * “Is the Cabbage Rose case about flattery or But a shrunken steamer trunk? The original BCBG Max Azria (below) offer bags clearly inspired by Louis theft, evolution or devolution? To Bernard Ozer, is a great bag, an inventive concept. Ghesquière Vuitton’s Petite Malle. The site Purse Valley openly sells a a vice president of the Associated Merchandising replica of Vuitton’s bag (top). created a new minaudière not by working in an Corp., the point is, finally, moot. ‘Everything is au courant material like wood or mother-of- adaptation and interpretation,’ he says. ‘There pearl, but by subverting one of Vuitton’s most is nothing original under the sun. Gaultier was essential house codes into an object useful in inspired by a cabbage rose. Years ago, Kenzo did an entirely different, contemporary context. a cabbage rose. My grandmother wore a cabbage summits.wwd.com It’s the ultimate in daytime chic for schlepping rose babushka. Who made a rose? God? A seed? minimalists, and brings power to the evening Gertrude Stein? Or my grandmother?’” ATTEND: KIM MANCUSO, [email protected], 646.356.4722 SPONSOR: ALEXIS COYLE, [email protected], 646.356.4719 bag construct (fie on fussy; the historical Vuitton — The New York Times, Dec. 17, 1985

is about chic durability). EVENT SPONSORS Visually interesting though it is, as with most RIP Bernie. He spoke out of shameless self-in- status bags, part of the appeal is in the label. terest, but engagingly so. ■ ®

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