Introduction
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North Conway Rock Climbs by Jerry Handren © 2012 by Jerry Handren. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission in writing from the author. Warning! Read before using this book. Climbing is an extremely dangerous activity. Always use judgment rather than the opinions represented in this book. The author assumes no responsibility for injury or death resulting from the use of this book. The information in this book is based on opinions gathered from a variety of sources. Do not rely solely on the information, descriptions or difficulty ratings as these are entirely subjective. If you are unwilling to assume complete responsibility for your safety, do not use this book. The author and publisher expressly disclaim all representations and warranties regard- ing this guide, the accuracy of the information herein, and the results of your use hereof, including without limitation, implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. The user assumes all risk associated with the use of this guide. 5 miles TUMBLEDOWN DICK 2 2 Gilead Gorham Route 113 at WILD RIVER Evans Notch is CRAG not maintained for winter travel. HUNTINGTON LAUGHING LION Gates are closed RAVINE CLIFF until the road SQUARE clears of snow. LEDGE SHELL POND Pinkham Notch WHITE MOUNTAIN NATIONAL FOREST 5 16 302 STAIRS MOUNTAIN Jackson 113 Hurricane Mountain Road is not maintained for winter travel. The gates are closed until the road clears of snow. WHITE'S HART'S ATTITASH LEDGE LEDGE CRAG Glen HUMPHREY'S Bartlett LEDGE 113 OWL'S CATHEDRAL 5 CLIFF Bear Notch LEDGE Road is not WHITEHORSE North JOCKEY'S GREEN'S maintained Conway CAP 302 CLIFF for winter LEDGE travel. Fryeburg SUNDOWN LEDGE 302 112 5 SQUARE RAINBOW LEDGE SLABS Conway 16 BAND M SANDWICH LEDGE NOTCH Introduction............................................ 4 Upper Kancamagus Area......................10 Square Ledge....................................12 SHAGG CRAG Hedgehog Mountain...........................16 Green’s Cliff.......................................18 BUCK’S 26 LEDGE Owl’s Cliff...........................................24 Bartlett Haystack...............................39 Bethel Locke Lower Kancamagus Area......................40 Mills Found Ledge......................................42 Lost Ledge.........................................46 TWITCHEL POND CRAG Table Mountain Slab..........................48 219 Bear Mountain Slab...........................49 Crack in the Woods Cliff...................51 5 BALD BLUFF Rainbow Slabs...................................53 West Paris Painted Walls.....................................60 SQUAREDOCK Greenwood Sundown Ledges...............................62 LEDGE ROCK DUNDEE Woodchuck Ledge.............................95 Crag Y..............................................106 Mineral Site Cliff...............................113 26 Conway Area........................................115 Band M Ledge.................................115 Albany Slab.....................................124 Sandwich Notch Area......................126 Stoneham Whitehorse Ledge...............................132 118 Norway Cathedral Ledge..................................180 118 Humphrey’s Ledge Area.....................248 The Bluff..........................................250 Humphrey’s Ledge...........................251 The Pigpen.......................................265 117 Saco Crag........................................267 26 Cemetery Cliff..................................269 Jackson Area.......................................270 Stairs Mountain................................272 Eagle Ledge....................................276 Trollville............................................276 The Jackson Crag...........................277 Eagle Mountain Cliff........................278 Popple Mountain..............................278 Square Ledge..................................280 117 Huntington Ravine...........................282 Bartlett Area.........................................288 IME Crag.........................................289 Bridgton White’s Ledge..................................291 Pick O’ the Litter cliff......................295 Attitash Crag....................................296 Cave Mountain.................................299 Hart’s Ledge....................................300 302 Evans Notch.........................................302 Jockey’s Cap...................................304 Shell Pond Area..............................308 Laughing Lion Cliff..........................318 Wild River Crag...............................324 Bethel Area..........................................330 Tumbledown Dick............................332 Squaredock Ledge...........................342 Buck’s Ledge...................................346 Twitchel Pond...................................348 Bald Bluff.........................................349 Rock Dundee...................................351 Shagg Crag.....................................352 4 INTRODUCTION About this Guidebook This guidebook covers a broad geographical area loosely centered on the town of North Conway on the eastern side of the White Mountains in New Hampshire. This area is one of the oldest climbing grounds in North America and continues to be one of the most important on the East Coast. The area covered stretches from the crest of the Kancamagus Highway in the west, down through the Mount Washington Valley, and over to the crags of Evans Notch and the Bethel area in Western Maine. Many of the cliffs covered in this book have appeared in previous guidebooks to the area, notably Ed Webster’s Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, East Volume, published in 1995, and Stewart Green’s Rock Climbing New England, a select guidebook published in 2001. However, in the years since these books appeared, a huge amount of route development has taken place. Most of the estab- lished cliffs, such as Cathedral Ledge, have seen the addition of many new routes; but perhaps even more important is the development of many new or nearly-new cliffs which appear here in print for the first time. As a climbing venue, this huge area has a lot to offer. The superb granite outcrops, such as Ca- thedral and Whitehorse Ledges, are well known for housing an incredible collection of traditional routes across the grades. In recent years the tremendous potential of the schist cliffs of Western Maine has begun to be tapped, the result being a large and growing col- lection of sport climbs, including some of the best in New England. The unique appeal of backcountry climbing in the White Mountains has continued to be a draw for some climbers. In particular, the remote crags of the Upper Kancamagus area have seen a big surge of activity and the addition of many new routes. Add it all up, and you have about 2000 rock climbs of all grades and styles, probably representing one of the most diverse collections of routes to be found in any single area in the country. This guidebook includes detailed descriptions of almost all the routes in the area. This is not a compilation of descriptions from other sources, rather, the information included in this book relies, as much as possible, on firsthand experi- ence, with descriptions having been completely rewritten and rechecked. As well as the written descriptions, this guidebook makes extensive use of photodiagrams, custom-drawn maps, and GPS data to ease the process of finding the cliff, finding the climb, and finding the route. My goal has been to make this the most usable, accurate, and detailed guidebook to the Eastern White Mountains to date. Seth Calkins on Nancy Boy. Page 323. INTRODUCTION 5 The Land, Rules & Regulations The bulk of the crags in this guidebook are in the White Moun- important that these closures be respected. Thankfully, as of tain National Forest (WMNF). For information such as road and 2012, peregrines are no longer on the Endangered Species cliff closures, campsite information etc., contact: List and restrictions may well be lifted as the population contin- ues to recover. White Mountain National Forest: 603 528 8721 Saco Ranger District Office (WMNF): 603 447 5448 Many of the access roads in the area are not maintained for winter travel. Bear Notch Road, Passaconaway Road, Evans The Saco Ranger District office is located about 100 yards Notch Road (Route 113), Sawyer River Road and several west of Route 16 on the north side of The Kancamagus others are usually closed by the first major snowfall, sometime Highway. in November. The roads generally do not open again until they Generally, there are few restrictions on climbers. A few of are clear of snow in the spring, usually in early May. the cliffs, such as Square Ledge and Wild River Crag, are in The Mountain Rescue Service (MRS) handles all technical Wilderness Areas. Wilderness areas have special regulations rescues in the White Mountain Region. This is a volunteer intended to keep these areas wild and to reduce human im- organization, consisting mostly of local guides and climbers, pact. The following apply in all WMNF designated wilderness: and which depends on donations to operate. Contributions go A) No mechanized equipment or mechanical transport (includ- toward the purchase of equipment such a radios, sleds, GPS ing bicycles, carts, and wagons; wheelchairs are allowed). devices etc, as well as specialized training for the personnel. B) Hiking and camping group size is limited to 10 people. As well as its rescue operations,