A CCESS • C ONSERVATION • A CTIVISM

VOL• 40 • 2001 “TUOLUMNE OF THE MIDWEST” PRESERVED ACCESS FUND FINALIZES BALDY POINT ACQUISITION

First it was Peshastin Pinnacles, then Rumney, Golden Cliffs, Society turn Crag—all saved by the Access Fund. The April acquisition of Baldy Point made the Access Fund’s effort to preserve one of America’s classic areas a reality. Long known for its outstanding friction climbing and high quality stone, Baldy Point is the “Fort Knox” of granite domes in the Wichita mountain range. Baldy’s south Marion Hutchison face offers possible the highest concentration of high-quali- ty granite routes between the Mississippi River and the Rockies. Routes like S-Wall (5.9) and Last of the Good Guys (5.10a) provide some of the best in the region. Climbing has been allowed place at Baldy Point for Baldy Point (pictured above) has been preserved for climbing after a series of negotiations spearheaded by the Access Fund, Wichita Climbers’ over 30 years thanks to the open-mindedness of the Ted Coalition, and local volunteers. Baldy Point is the ‘’Fort Knox” of granite and Margaret Johnson domes in the Wichita mountain range. family. Alerted to the possible sale of the area in November in Oklahoma, played a key role during the negotiations and 1999, the Access Fund began a serious effort to acquire was the driving force behind the Baldy Point and transfer it to the Oklahoma Tourism and acquisition. “Marion’s dedication to seeing this unique area Recreation Department to be managed as part of nearby preserved, coupled with his hard work and leadership over Quartz Mountain State Park. The Access Fund, State Park the past year really made this acquisition possible,” said officials, and the property owner completed all the neces- Shawn Tierney, Access Fund acquisitions director. “The sary agreements for the acquisition after months of negotia- climbing community owes him a huge debt of gratitude.” On tions. Local climbers and the Wichita Mountain Climbers behalf of the climbing community, the Access Fund thanks Coalition strongly supported the purchase by raising over the Johnson family for their commitment to preserving this $15,000. area for future generations. See www.wichitamountains.org Marion Hutchison, the Access Fund’s Regional Coordinator for more info.

vertical times may 2001 1 OPINIONS FROM THE CLIMBING WORLD

AN OBED PERSPECTIVE BY FRANK HARVEY Frank Harvey works as an assistant district attorney in Having climbed in the Obed for over 15 years, I recently Tennessee. He has been climbing for 16 years and prefers attended a focus group meeting along with other climbers, NPS trad routes and more recently. He helped personnel, and representatives of the Nature Conservancy, form the East Tennessee Climbers club, and has worked Tennessee Citizens for Wilderness Planning, and the National on access issues at Cherokee Bluffs, Black Mountain, Parks and Conservation Association. This meeting followed a and the Obed. scoping meeting and a time period for public comment. But these meetings were preceded by a long history that set The National Park Service is in the process of formulating a the tone for the management plan process. As early as 12 years Climbing Management Plan for the Obed Wild and Scenic River ago, climbers made formal contact with the Park Service, hop- (OWSR), site of world-class sport and trad climbing. In each ing to establish a dialog to deal with any climbing related case where climbing policy for public or private land is formal- problems before they escalated. When parking became an issue ized into rules and regulations. There exists a background of at the popular Clear Creek area, we raised the funds for a grav- climbing history that either begins on a positive basis or el parking lot on private property, courtesy of the landowner. reduces the process to little more than a fancy way of arriving The Park Service provided the heavy machinery for the work at an outright ban on climbing. and the local city of Wartburg donated a culvert for the • continued on page 12 © Harrison Shull/ www.shullphoto.com

Looking downstream from the north towards South Clear Creek Canyon, Tennessee, at the Obed Wild and Scenic River Area.

2 vertical times may 2001 GOVERNMENT POLICY PERTAINING TO CLIMBERS

D ENALI RESCUE- COST climbers should be required to provide To comment on the Denali rescue cost STUDY proof of medical insurance prior to being recovery study, write: A study now being complet- issued a climbing permit, and whether Denali National Park, Attn. Mike ed by the National Park the current climbing fees at Denali Gauthier, PO Box 588, Talkeetna, AK Service at Denali National should be raised. 99676, or e-mail: [email protected]. Park in has not The Access Fund objected to the pas- Also, check the Access Fund web site received much attention from sage of this law, authored by Senator (www.accessfund.org) or the Denali climbers – but it should. The study Frank Murkowski (R-AK). Murkowski has National Park Service site been trying to make climbers pay for the could result in new and higher climbing (www.nps.gov/dena/) for updates on fees and mandatory costs to individual costs of their rescues since 1992, when a this issue and advice on how to climbers for rescues. record thirteen climbers lost their lives contact Congress. The considered policy changes would on McKinley and the National Park climber rescues. have a dramatic and devastating effect Service spent $431,000 on rescues and It is official Park Service policy to on the climbing experience and access to body recoveries. undertake, if possible, rescues of visitors climbing areas at Denali. The Access In response to those costs and fatali- in distress. The Access Fund proposes Fund urges its members to respond to the ties, the Park Service made several that if the agency is going to rescue any Park Service and Congress to stop this changes in climbing policy at Denali: the visitors in distress, the NPS should find misguided effort to reduce the costs of park began to charge climbers $150 to alternatives to reduce rescue costs before visitor rescues in the national park sys- attempt Mounts McKinley and Foraker; singling out climber rescues. These meth- tem. climbers were required to register for a ods could include: Last fall Congress passed a law requir- permit at least 60 days prior to their -Reduction or elimination of adminis- ing the Department of the Interior to visit; and the park started an aggressive trative (government) services; study the “suitability and feasibility” of climber education program. -Allowing visitors to sign a “no res- recovering the costs of high altitude res- These changes appear to have made a cue” waiver instead of paying a fee; cues on Mount McKinley (Denali). A final difference. Between 1991 and 1995, the -Terminating the $250,000 annual report to Congress is due by August average number of climber rescues per contract for a special, high-altitude heli- 2001. The study will examine whether year at Denali was sixteen. Since 1995, the average dropped to about 11 major copter at Denali. search and rescue missions per year, with Climbing program costs at Denali an average of two climbing fatalities per (which includes climber rescue costs) year. In 2000, 13 major climber rescues should be compared to the costs of sup- cost the park $73,137. porting other types of recreational uses. In February 2001, the Park Service ini- The Access Fund will actively oppose the tiated the rescue cost recovery study. adoption of new fees, insurance require- The Access Fund responded that we ments, and rescue cost recovery efforts would oppose any policy requiring for climbers until other non-discrimina- climbers to pay for their rescue costs, tory strategies have been tested and unless it applied equally to all park proven ineffective. visitors. The Access Fund does not suggest that U SE F EES OPPOSITION GROWS the costs of rescuing climbers at Denali In recent months several developments and elsewhere are insignificant or should have boosted efforts to end the nation- be ignored. However, it is unfair to wide Fee Demo Program, which allows expect climbers to pay for rescues and federal lands agencies to impose and not expect the same from hikers, swim- raise fees for virtually any use of public Michael Kennedy mers, and boaters. Rescues of these types lands, including parking your car to A rescue like this one above on Denali could of visitors cost the Park Service much watch the sunset. have mandatory costs for climbers if the Denali Rescue-Cost study is approved. more than what the agency spends on • continued on next page

vertical times may 2001 3 Policy Update Continued...

The Access Fund has opposed the Meanwhile, a bill (HJM 15) has been Recreational Fee Demonstration Program introduced to the Oregon state legisla- SIGN UP FOR THE since Congress passed it in 1996. The ture urging Congress “to abolish the “test” program was given an initial life Northwest Forest Pass portion of the ACCESS FUND span of three years, but it has been Recreation Fee Demonstration Program extended twice since its inception, now and permit the citizens of Oregon to VIRTUAL through 2002. enjoy the national forests… without Out of 155 national forests, 100 now payment of a fee.” The bill appears to be charge some kind of use fee. widely supported. TIMES The Access Fund was a co-founder of At the national level, Congresswoman ELECTRONIC NEWSLETTER the Public Access Coalition. Along with Lois Capps (D-CA) has reintroduced a bill organizations such as the Sierra Club, in Congress that would terminate the Fee AND RECEIVE MONTHLY Wild Wilderness and American Demo program and pay for the lost rev- ACCESS NEWS VIA EMAIL Whitewater, we have worked actively to enue by ending government subsidies ! force a thorough and accurate examina- for logging. GOTO tion of the “success” of Fee Demo. Also, we support higher annual appropriations W E URGE CLIMBERS TO: WWW.ACCESSFUND.ORG to land management agencies so that use •Support the Capps bill and use the AND CLICK ON fees are unnecessary. US Forest Service’s on-line Fee Demo The Access Fund believes use fees are comment form: “JOIN LIST” discriminatory, and a form of “double www.fs.fed.us/recreation/feedemo/com- taxation” since Americans already pay to mentform.html; maintain public lands through their fed- •To oppose new and higher use fees. eral income taxes. A government rushing The Forest Service and other agencies are Adam Johnson “accesses” the Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge, Colorado. photo: John Heisel to cut taxes by $1.6 trillion can certainly saying that Americans support use fees, afford to pay for trail maintenance, while in reality 20% of visitors are refus- campground improvements, and visitor ing to pay them at all and 45% refuse to education in our national parks and pay them until they are issued a forests. warning; An editorial in the April 1 edition of •Tell your congressperson and sena- the Seattle Times effectively frames the tors that you want public lands paid for issue. The desperate financial straits of through your income taxes, not extra use our land agencies are a result of skewed fees (go to www.congress.gov for contact spending priorities. “A nation with information); enough loose change in its drawers to •Consider practicing your religion in crank out a $4 billion white-elephant aircraft carrier, the USS Ronald Reagan, the outdoors, since by law you do not can afford to repair [trail] switchbacks,” have to pay a fee for religious use of wrote Columnist Ron Judd. public lands; The human-powered outdoor recre- •Make an additional contribution to ation industry and advocacy groups have the Access Fund so we can take this also stepped up efforts to lobby Congress fight to the next level. for more revenue to manage lands. The Access Fund is working with organiza- PLEASE NOTE: The Virtual Times For more information on this issue, tions such as REI, the Outdoor Recreation does not replace the Vertical Coalition of America, and the American see the Access Fund website by clicking Times but complements it to Hiking Society to boost land agency on www.accessfund.org. keep you informed. budgets.

4 vertical times may 2001 L AS V EGAS L AND M ANAGER C ONFERENCE, NV B ISHOP, The Access Fund recently attended the The area around Bishop, California first-ever climbing management confer- attracts climbers from around the world. ence held March 6-8 in Las Vegas, The dramatically increasing number of Nevada. Hosted by the Bureau of Land climbers in recent years has raised con- Management, the conference was a cerns about impacts to the fragile desert NORTHEAST national gathering of climbing rangers ecosystem, particularly by people - H OW I MPORTANT IS S KYTOP, NY and land managers who oversee climbing ing on the Volcanic Tableland, home to TO YOU? resources. the Happy and Sad Boulders. In response, Skytop in New York’s Shawangunks is Over 50 representatives from the BLM, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) one of the most storied and beautiful National Park Service, National Forest created a free campground in November cliffs in the country and was a very pop- Service, various State Parks, the Mohonk of 1999. Last year, the campground saw ular destination for both local and visit- Preserve, and others attended the invita- over 6,000 visitors, and this number has ing climbers until a few years ago. It tion-only event. The Access Fund and the already doubled for the current season. hosts ground breaking classics such as American Mountain Guides Association The campground provides toilets, a com- “Foops,” “Supercrack,” “Open Cockpit,” were the two non-governmental partici- munity fire pit with picnic tables, estab- and “Vandals.” pants invited to the event. lished campsites, a dumpster, and recy- Unfortunately, due to a change in Issues addressed at the conference cling bins. In early March the BLM orga- insurance carriers, the Mohonk Mountain included discussion of fee demo pro- nized a successful volunteer campground House, proprietor of Skytop, banned rock cleanup day, where many campers helped climbing. The result has been the loss of remove trash and create new campsites. one of the country’s great crags. Despite The BLM is increasing its efforts to efforts of the Access Fund to regain work with climbers. In addition to main- access to Skytop, nothing has changed taining the campground, the BLM has since the late-1980s. The Mohonk posted educational information at the Mountain House is a business that caters campground and areas, per- to few rock climbers, and their overriding formed raptor studies, conducted photo concern has been liability. monitoring of vegetation loss near boul- Still, all may not be lost. Access Fund dering areas, and maintained several Regional Coordinator Russ Clune urges grams, enforcement of commercial guide trails. The BLM now employs a climbing climbers that now is time to inform the service regulations, bolting, resource ranger to help oversee these operations, hotel of Skytop’s importance. Please impacts from bouldering, and raptor yet its financial burdens have increased. write a letter to the hotel asking them to monitoring. When Jeff Jarvis, wilderness As a result, the BLM now asks for a $1 reconsider their ban on climbing. Be specialist for the BLM, asked participants per person/per day voluntary payment polite and tell the Mountain House of its if they thought there was a problem with for camping. This money goes directly historical value and how important the bolting, no one said yes. Instead atten- into maintaining the campground and crag is to you. The more letters the hotel dees seemed most concerned with boul- climbing facilities. Since November 2000, receives, the better the chances for fur- dering and its increased environmental $1,100 has been donated, which is below ther negotiations. For more info: impacts. the BLM’s expectations. With over 12,000 (www.gunks.com). Sam Davidson, Access Fund executive campers this season, this averages out to WEST director, made a presentation at the con- be less than $0.10 per person, per night. In the future, the BLM will begin enforc- Please address letters to: ference about the organization and its Mr. Albert Smiley advocacy, conservation, and education ing a 14-day camping limit on BLM land, Mohonk Hotel programs. and a long-term visitor pass may be Mohonk Lake Prior to the conference, Davidson and made available. New Paltz, NY 12561 Mike Alkaitis of the AMGA, took Jeff The BLM is working with local climbers If you send a letter to the Mountain Jarvis climbing at Red Rocks. It was and the Access Fund to preserve the House, please email a copy to the local integrity of the beautiful desert ecosys- climbing organization at Jarvis’s first time climbing, and he [email protected]. immensely enjoyed the experience. • continued on next page

vertical times may 2001 5 Area Reports Continued...

However, they must park at the Visitor’s Wilderness Management Plan. The “pre- Center and take the shuttle into the ferred alternative” of the plan recom- canyon as part of the policy. mends new standards or management The Zion to Mt. Carmel Highway is actions to protect wilderness values, still open to cars. Between November and which would affect a variety of back- March, cars can access the canyon with- country recreation opportunities. out permits. Climbing receives significant attention “It is now much more of a natural in the draft plan. Of note are proposals experience,” said Ray O’Neil, backcountry to prohibit new summit registers and Volunteers maintain the trail at the Volcanic ranger of ZNP who avoided the canyon in “top to bottom” bolted routes. The Tableland of Bishop, CA. the past on busy days due to traffic and Access Fund supports the bulk of the tem while maintaining access for the “urban experience.” proposed climbing policy, but recom- climbers. For any further information or Climbing permits are still required for mended that a distinction be made comments contact the BLM Bishop Field climbers attempting multi-day routes. between traditional bolted face climbs Office at 760 872-4881 or see: They may be obtained for $5 per permit (which should continue to be allowed in www.ca.blm.gov/bishop/blmfacts.html at the Backcountry Office. There is no wilderness) and sport climbs, which are limit to the number of climbing and Red inappropriate for most wilderness areas. Z ION N ATIONAL PARK, UT Permits that are granted. For more infor- To review the draft plan, go to S HUTTLE SYSTEM mation, contact the Zion National Park www.nps.gov/romo. Although the public Report from Ray O’Neil, ZNP ranger Service at 435-772-3256 or comment period ended March 30, we Due to the overwhelming increase of www.nps.gov/zion. encourage climbers to continue to pro- visitors into Zion National Park, authori- vide feedback. You can e-mail comments ties introduced a public transportation R ED R OCKS L ATE/EARLY E XIT to [email protected] or fax system in 2000 to minimize traffic and P OLICY, NV 970-586-1310. noise. Climbers can no longer drive into The Access Fund reported incorrectly the canyon unless they have a special the Late Exit/Overnight Parking informa- YOSEMITE, CA permit, and no vehicles are permitted tion in Vertical Times #39. The correct Yosemite National Park is looking for inside the park gates overnight. policy is as follows: volunteers to work on climbing projects Shuttles now transport the majority of Effective April 1, the entrance gates to this summer. Ranger Mark Fincher people into the canyon. They run from Red Rock Canyon National Conservation reports that the Yosemite Fund is paying the first week of April to the last week Area are being closed at 8 p.m. Late Exit for a seasonal climbing ranger who will in October. Permits, which allow climbers to be in coordinate climbing-related trail and Climbers can park at the Visitor Center the park until 11 p.m., and Overnight cleanup projects. Priority areas will be or Springdale and take the shuttle from Parking Permits may be issued seven days the base of big wall routes. Volunteers Sinawava in and out of the canyon in advance from the ranger’s office. The may receive free camping in the Valley. between 7 am - 10 p.m. during the office closes daily at 4:30 p.m. Late Exit Contact Mark Fincher at spring and fall seasons. During the sum- Permits are granted to climbers attempt- [email protected]. Meanwhile, the mer months after Memorial day, the ing longer routes (i.e. Levitation Wall, Access Fund will meet with Park Service shuttle hours are extended to 5:30 a.m. - Rainbow Wall, Bridge Mountain, and officials this summer to discuss alterna- 11 p.m. Buffalo Wall), but are not granted for tives to the proposed roadside parking There are two exceptions, which and single routes. area closures, which would make it diffi- enable climbers to obtain a Red Permit, The gates open to climbers at 6 am all cult to access many popular crags such as which allows driving into the canyon: year. For more info call the Red Rocks the Cookie Cliff. -Climbers doing long routes in a day Late Exit/Overnight Parking Line at 702- (i.e. Moonlight Buttress). 647-5042. M ISSION G ORGE, CA TRAIL DAY -Climbers planning multi-day climbs R OCKY M OUNTAIN N ATIONAL Reported from the San Diego Climbers’ who need to make several trips to trans- PARK, CO Coalition News port heavy gear. The permit allows them The Access Fund submitted detailed The March 3rd trail day at Mission to drop their gear prior to climbing and comments to the Park Service in response Gorge was a big success. Approximately pick it up afterwards with their car. to the draft RMNP Backcountry and 30 volunteers, organized by Mike Brown, • continued on page 14

6 vertical times may 2001 W ORKING FOR YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE FROM SURF TO SANDSTONE: SAM DAVIDSON TAKES THE LEAD AS AF ED The Access Fund has appointed Sam Davidson Davidson graduated from to the position of executive director. Davidson Princeton University in 1983. will lead the organization’s staff and national He has worked extensively in network of volunteers in their work to keep US the outdoor recreation field, climbing areas open while promoting responsible including serving as a field use and management of climbing resources. He instructor for the National assumed the leadership role from Interim Outdoor Leadership School. Executive Director Susy Levin in April. Davidson has climbed photos by John Heisel A passionate climber with more than 20 years throughout North America and of experience in every facet of the sport, Davidson has worked in Australia, New Zealand, and for the Access Fund since 1990. As senior policy analyst for Hong Kong. However, he says, the past six years, he has spearheaded land use policy issues, “My favorite place to climb challenged closures and negotiated with land managers, envi- remains Yosemite Valley. It’s Sam Davidson ronmental groups and Congress. Davidson recently represented where I learned to climb in the organization in meetings of the US Forest Service’s 1975, and there is no place more inspirational.” Davidson Negotiated Rulemaking Committee on Fixed Anchors in admits that his preference for areas like the Valley may be at Wilderness. There he was instrumental in improving awareness least partly due to his woeful sport climbing abilities, which of climbing history and ethics, forging agreements to protect he blames on his size (6’ 3”, 200 lbs.). He will immediately climbers’ interests, and addressing the concerns of wilderness relocate to Boulder from his home in Salinas, California. preservation groups. About his new job, Davidson says, “Climbing access and the “After an extensive search where we were privileged to con- protection of the climbing environment is a cause worth fight- sider several outstanding applicants, we couldn’t ignore the ing for, and the Access Fund will continue to lead this fight. fact that the best candidate was here within the organization,” Watch for us to increase our efforts to support grassroots advo- said Access Fund President Becky Hall. “The board of directors cacy, provide resource management solutions, improve climber and staff unanimously agreed that Sam was the most qualified education, and represent climbers effectively in the political person to represent our 11,000 members and help guide this arena.” Davidson adds, “It is an honor to represent our mem- organization to the next level. His unique blend of legal and bership, and I look forward to working with them, our corpo- policy experience, coupled with his energy and knowledge of rate partners, and others within the climbing community and the complex issues facing climbers today is unparalleled. I look outdoor industry to keep climbing alive for ours’ and future forward to continued growth in our membership and increased generations.” effectiveness in our advocacy efforts under his leadership.” • Meet the Access Fund continued on next page

Sam takes a break from pulling down at a recent bouldering session at Red Rocks with the AF staff. Above from left: Kerry Cowan, Sam Davidson, Shawn Tierney, Kath Pyke, John Heisel, Heather Clark, and Susy Levin.

vertical times may 2001 7 Meet the Access Fund continued... KICKIN’ ACCESS WITH KURT SMITH Interview by John Heisel © Corey Rich www.coreyography.com

“It’s unfair to play God with climbing,” says Kurt Smith, who is travelling the country on his 2001 Kickin’ Access slide show tour to benefit the Access Fund. The tour will feature 12 shows around the country with music, climbing, prizes, beer, and more!

Heisel : What can you tell us about your “Kickin’ Access 2001” Smith: It’s a small price to pay in my opinion. For the price of slideshow tour? a good case of beer you can save a lot of climbin’ outdoors! Smith: It is the first of its kind climber’s party benefiting the Heisel: Why should climbers join the Access Fund? Access Fund. DJ Underground Chuck will spin some heavy beats Smith: They’re taking care of climbing in the whole country. and show a one-hour slideshow about my last 20 years of You might not have access problems now, but what if your local climbing. crag is closed down? People should join unless they are content Heisel: How many events are you having. to climb in gyms the rest of their lives. Smith: There are 12 events across the country. Rock and Ice Heisel: What can people do to help climbing access in their magazine is the main sponsor, and most shows are in the East area? and Midwest. Smith: They can call their local Access Fund regional coordi- Heisel: What will a typical show be like? nator, take care of their local areas, talk to their land man- Smith: They will be setup at a local climbing gym. There will agers, and get involved with politicians. be a gear demo for Scarpa/Black Diamond, and there will dyno Heisel: Are there any other reasons why you are stoked for and pull-up competitions going. The winners will get booty. “Kickin’ Access 2001?” Chuck will play music during the competition. Around 8-8:30, Smith: I’m a gypsy, I like to travel. This is a fun break in the there will be the slideshow with a gear raffle afterwards. People summer for me to leave Mexico, get on the road, and help out that join the Access Fund, get four tickets for the raffle. my sponsors and the Access Fund. Heisel: What are you guys doing to promote this event? Heisel: Is there anybody you want to thank for helping your Smith: We are pushing a big web presence this year and we will show? have info on a number of sites such as: Portrero Chico.com, Smith: Yes, I want to especially thank Elaina Arenz and Rock and Ice, RockList.com, Black Diamond, Ropegun.com, and Charles Fyberger (DJ Chuck) for all of their hard work. I’d also the Access Fund among others. like to thank my sponsors RockList.com, Ropegun, Rock and Heisel: What is your motivation to host this tour again this Ice, and Black Diamond for all their support. year? Heisel: Any last thoughts? Smith: I want to inject some energy into local areas and get Smith: Yeah, I think the future of climbing will be good if people psyched to join the Access Fund. It’s shocking to me people let it grow. I hate it when people keep their areas a that there’s about 800,000 climbers in the U.S. and only 11,000 secret, when people keep it [climbing] down, and have their are members of the Access Fund. trad. vs. sport debates. It’s unfair to play God with climbing. Heisel: Do you think it is too expensive for most people People should just have a good time with it! to join? (See page 13 for the Kickin’ Access Slide Show schedule.)

8 vertical times may 2001 ACCESS F UND AWARDS low impact practices and climber safety roots climber activism and is a primary and responsibility at the park. resource for keeping climbing areas F IVE G RANTS open. RC’s are the Access Fund’s principal The Access Fund Climbing •$3,000 to the North Carolina Wildlife liaisons to local areas and represent Preservation Grants Program Resources Commission and its climbers’ interests on both public and utilizes your membership dol- Endangered Wildlife Program. Funds private lands. Please contact your RC lars to fund projects that pre- will support monitoring of peregrine fal- when access issues arise in your area. serve or enhance climbing cons at seven cliff sites with both nest- We would like to extend a welcome opportunities and conserve ing raptor activity and . and thanks to these new RC’s for volun- the climbing environment in teering their time and energy to the . For the •$2,250 to the National Wildlife preserve access: first of its four funding cycles in 2001, Federation in Vermont to help promote •Lonny Whitcomb, Central Pennsylvania $18,000 was distributed to support five awareness of cliff-nesting raptors 717/642-6994 separate projects planned by public amongst climbers and to protect pere- [email protected] agencies, wildlife protection organiza- grine falcon breeding sites. •Aram Attarian, North Carolina tions and conservation groups. The fol- lowing are recent grant recipients: 919/515-3709 •$1,656 to the Northern California [email protected] Chapter of the Access Fund for publica- •$6,500 to the Rocky Mountain Field •Heather Hibbard, Vermont tion and distribution of its regional Institute for trails and impact mitigation 802/863-6788 newsletter - Northern California at Indian Creek and Castleton Tower in [email protected] Access News. Utah, and Shelf Road in Colorado. •Jason Keith, Western Colorado 970/945-2942 •$4,500 to Snow Canyon State Park, N EW R EGIONAL C OORDINATORS [email protected] Utah for developing of a kiosk and Our Regional Coordinator Network is •Frank Harvey, Obed, Tennessee brochure to promote resource protection, the cornerstone of our support for grass- 865/986-6618 [email protected] The Access Fund: your climbing future

Help the Access Fund preserve climbing. There are many ways you can help preserve our valued climbing resources. They include: * Stock * Charitable Gift Annuity Stock is an attractive option for many people because you not only You make a gift to the Access Fund in return for a fixed amount of get to deduct the appreciated value of the stock, but you are not annual income and a tax deduction. You may receive income required to pay capital gains tax on the asset. In cases where the immediately or defer it until retirement. initial investment was small, the resulting contribution and subse- quent deduction can be substantial. * Pooled Income Fund You make a gift of $5,000 or more to the pooled income fund, * Bequest which is similar to a mutual fund. You receive a variable amount of By putting the Access Fund in your will, you may lower your income each year, and the assets ultimately go to the Access Fund. estate taxes while helping to ensure climbing will be preserved for future generations. We can provide sample language to make this easy for you.

If your gift is $10,000 or more, you may designate it for one of the following categories: Acquisitions, Advocacy & Activism, Membership,Trails, Education, Climbing Preservation Projects or Unrestricted. For more information on any of these options, contact Susy Levin in the Access Fund office at 303-545-6772, ext. 102.

vertical times may 2001 9 ACCESS FUND MEMBERS SPEAK OUT

spent. Unfortunately, what we see from analysis of the Fee Demo PAY TO P LAY? program so far is that the vast majority of revenues collected does- I am a relatively new member of The Access Fund looking for n’t go toward trail repair and campground improvements, but toward some info regarding the entrance fees to our National Parks. I paying the administrative costs of the program and other backlogged have been paying fees to enter Joshua Tree and other Parks for expenses which have higher priority. We need to let Congress know the last few years. Recently I read an article stating that these that the public does not want use fees, instead we want our public fees are not mandatory and are in an “experimental” stage. The lands funded through our income taxes. article goes on to suggest that not paying the fee and getting If you need help identifying your Congressperson and senators a “ticket” from the NPS would serve as a vote against the fee and how to reach them, please look for the link on our web site and nothing more. What should I do? I go to the parks to climb (www.accessfund.org) or go to a site such as and relax, not cause fights. I agree with the idea that these www.congress.nw.dc.us/rollcall. lands are ours already and are paid for (or should be paid for) As far as civil disobedience goes, the Access Fund does not recom- by our tax dollars. Why do the NPS employees support and mend that you refuse to pay Fee Demo fees. You should always reg- enforce these so called laws as if they were set in stone? I can’t ister your objection to such fees, however, whenever you pay them. seem to even have a decent conversation with the NPS about these fees. They don’t even return my email. I have no problem L ETTER TO THE ACCESS F UND paying to support the NPS if my money is truly being used cor- I would like to thank The Access Fund for your continuing rectly. Do I simply pay and trust that this is so, or do I become support of the North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission’s the vigilante climber and subject myself to being hassled, lec- peregrine falcon monitoring program. In addition to monitoring tured, and ticketed? the peregrine population in North Carolina we are committed Walter Lockwood to working with all agencies, landowners, and organizations to Via email manage peregrine falcon nest sites, while minimizing restric- tions upon other activities that share North Carolina’s cliffs. We T HE AF RESPONDS are committed, thanks to your contributions, to ensuring that The NPS is not required to impose new or higher fees as a result climbing restrictions at peregrine falcon nest sites be publi- of legislation first passed by Congress in 1996 and renewed again cized broadly and accurately for the benefits to both climbers last year through 2002. The law allows the Park Service and other and falcons. federal lands agencies to keep 80% of such fees, while the other We have initiated the monitoring efforts that the Access 20% of Fee Demo revenues goes into a “slush fund” to support the Fund grant, the 2001 Peregrine Falcon Productivity Monitoring fee program. So you can see there is substantial incentive for the Project in North Carolina, supported. We have confirmed terri- agencies to charge new fees or raise the established, therefore, the torial falcons at four sites thus far, and have observed falcons new entrance fee is $20 at Yosemite and $10 at Joshua Tree at two others. Within the next month we expect to confirm (increased from $5). peregrine territoriality at the remainder of the previously occu- The Access Fund opposes Fee Demo and use fees generally, for pied territories. In addition we have made some efforts to coor- reasons of fairness and accountability. Plus, we do not believe the dinate, compile, and disseminate information regarding climb- federal lands agencies should be encouraged to operate on a for- ing restrictions at North Carolina Cliffs. Those activities will profit business model — it confuses their means with their purpose, also continue as the breeding season progresses and we learn which is resource stewardship and visitor management. more about the specific peregrine nesting activities. Your most effective response is to write and call your congressper- son and two senators, urging them to terminate the Demonstration Christopher McGrath Fee Authority and boost the annual appropriations to the agencies Mountain Nongame Project Leader provided by Congress through the annual budget process. Urge your Nongame and Endangered Wildlife Program, NC congressional delegation to support the bill recently re-introduced by Congresswoman Lois Capps (D-CA, Santa Barbara) that would stop Editor’s Note: For more information on wildlife closures and restric- Fee Demo and make up that revenue by ending subsidies to logging tions click on www.accessfund.org/ClosuresRestrictions.html. The NC on national forest lands. Money provided through appropriations Wildlife Resources have made a special initiative in 2001 to provide comes from our collective income taxes, and the agencies that sup- regular updates on the status of raptor restrictions via the Access port Fee Demo revenue because Congress cannot control how it is Fund and other climbing organization websites. • continued on next page

10 vertical times may 2001 Letters continued...

R EMOVABLE B OLTS drilled hole, a permanent intrusion on the natural landscape. The It is frustrating to see the Access Fund treat Removable controversy over “fixed anchors” has never been about their visual Bolts like a non-issue or see them engage in circular argu- impacts — it’s about whether climbers should be able to alter the ments that have nothing to do with the difference between environment in a lasting way. Let us be clear: the problem with removable and fixed bolts. Some people may not like using RBs fixed bolts and removable bolts alike is that they require the instead of fixed bolts, but their reasoning either has nothing drilling of a hole in the rock. In the Forest Service’s Negotiated to do with the difference or nothing to do with what The Rulemaking on fixed anchors in wilderness, for example, the com- Access Fund says they support. Statements like “leave less mittee members agreed quickly that visual impacts could easily be trace” and “bolts are not a convenience” are inconsistent with mitigated, but we never agreed if climbers should be permitted to a lack of support for RBs. How can we advocate painting drill a hole for an . hangers, yet not advocate using RBs? It is time for the organi- The Access Fund’s decision not to endorse one kind of drilled zation to stand behind what it advocates or stop anchor over another does not mean that we oppose or recommend advocating it. against the use of removable bolts. We are simply neutral on this The Access Fund makes mistakes sometimes and they do not question. As Calderone points out, we have made mistakes from (and cannot) represent all climbers. Slandering the Access time to time. We believe we are open to constructive criticism and Fund would be self-defeating, since they have done so much to admitting when we’ve been wrong. However, we do not think that to benefit all climbers’ interests. But it is time for them to our neutral stance on what type of drilled anchor climbers should start accepting constructive criticism from their constituents. use is inconsistent with our long-time advocacy for Leave No Trace A good place to start is consistency in what they advocate. principles and minimizing climbers’ impacts on the environment. The best way for climbers to reduce our “trace” on the rock, and to Tony Calderone help resolve the public policy dispute over bolting, is to exercise Via email more self-control in the placement of ANY kind of drilled anchor, period. T HE AF RESPONDS The Access Fund appreciates Mr. Calderone’s commitment to min- imizing the “traces” left by climbers on the natural environment. MOVING? There is perhaps some confusion regarding the Access Fund’s posi- tion on drilled anchors: we urge climbers never to place ANY kind of LET US KNOW! drilled anchor unless there is no alternative (e.g. top-roping, using chocks or cams, choosing not to do the climb at all). When a deci- sion is made to place a drilled anchor (bolts, removable bolts, riv- ets, cold shuts), it the climber’s choice to choose a type of anchor. We are not “hiding” or “ignoring” the facts about drilled anchors. The Access Fund does not make recommendations between the dif- ferent types of drilled anchors, because there are too many factors requiring the exercise of personal judgment involved in the decision to place them. HEY, WE ALL KNOW MOVING CAN BE From what we have heard, removable bolts are safe and reliable anchors when used properly. Removable bolts do offer the benefit of HECTIC, BUT THE ACCESS FUND zero visual impact... unless they get “fixed” after a fall. We can SPENDS HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS EACH certainly envision that removable bolts could be employed on wall routes to reduce or eliminate rivets. Removable bolts also introduce YEAR MAILING TO OLD ADDRESSES. IF a new level of challenge (and potentially of risk) into the free YOU MOVE, CALL US TOLL-FREE AT climbing game, as it’s a lot harder to find a small drilled hole than a bolt hanger is. 1-888-863-6237 (x106) or But we should not fool ourselves that land managers and critics email: of climbing will think that removable bolts are any better, from a philosophical standpoint, than regular bolts. RBs still require a [email protected]

vertical times may 2001 11 Spray Continued from page 2... entrance. Since then climbers have erected a signboard at the www.nps.gov/chal/nps7.pdf). The NPS, like most government trailhead as well as a secure donation box for the landowner. agencies, is grossly under funded! At this and other areas, climbers have worked hard to •In any meetings, come to the table with a positive attitude, change their access routes as needed to avoid or address prob- a willingness to compromise and a command of the facts and lems, including landowner complaints and changes, erosion and climbing history (good or bad) of your area. impact issues. Climbers came out in force to establish in virtu- •If your state has a landowner’s liability act be very familiar ally one weekend a major NPS trail to the Obed Clear junction, with its provisions! solving a longstanding access issue. •Join and become active in the Access Fund. Be ready to In 1998, it came to light that The Nature Conservancy, not spend time and money as needed to protect climbing and the the Park Service, owned the land containing the Clear Creek land in your area. If you chose to spend all your dollars on . A meeting was quickly set up between climbers gear, you may have to drive very far to use it! and representatives of the Conservancy and the NPS. While concerns were voiced about the unknown environmental and We still face challenges at the Obed; the management plan archeological impact of climbing on the area, due to the obvi- will clearly involve a moratorium on new routes pending the ous level of stewardship of climbers, climbing was left “as is” impact studies long hinted at in all the history of the area, but pending further study. due to the efforts of climbers over the years, climbing on exist- In October of 1999, a meeting was held between climbers ing, as well as ultimately new routes, will likely continue. The and representatives of Tennessee Citizens for Wilderness foundation we have all built over the years makes it hard for Planning, an organization whose birth was closely tied to the anyone to “walk away from the table,” saying that climbers establishment of the OWSR itself. The TCWP expressed serious don’t matter or don’t care. Looking back it has been more than concerns about the impact of climbing in the OWSR. Despite differences of opinion, the meeting led to a memorandum of understanding that committed climbers to education efforts. Also, it acknowledged the legitimacy of climbing, and fixed anchors in the Obed. This memorandum demonstrated at the 2000 Access Fund Adopt-a-Crag event, attended by climbers, boaters, Scouts, TCWP members, NPS personnel, and others. This kind of partnering with other user and interest groups has been invaluable in preserving climbing in the Obed. We can hang together or hang separately! What can be learned from our history? The following things come to mind:

•Know the players; your homework on landowners and offi- cials will pay off. •If you even think a problem is arising, get busy and address it. Don’t wait for others to come to you or worse, take action without your input. © •Practice “Leave no Trace” climbing as much as possible. Harrison Shull/ www.shullphoto.com Remember, “Gym trained” climbers may not have the same environmental ethic as those who learned climbing outdoors. •Partner all responsible user and interest groups that you can. There is true strength in numbers, and the broader spec- trum creates legitimacy for your efforts. •When access issues arise, the investment of time, effort and money will create a positive image and a sense that climbers

are willing to give and not just take from the environment. Kelly Brown soaks the of “Blue Sky, Green Water” at North •IF you climb on NPS land, sign an Agreement for Volunteer Clear Creek Canyon of the Obed, TN. Service (form 10-85 downloadable at The opinions in Spray are not necessarily those of the Access Fund

12 vertical times may 2001 E VENTS P INNACLE Kurt Smiths Kickin Access Slide show tour to T HESE EVENTS RAISED THE benefit the Access Fund is heading to a climbing MOST MONEY FOR THE CCESS UND THIS WINTER area near you. Kickin’ Access is a climber’s party A F ! benefiting the Access Fund, and it’s coming this •$1,234 Mike Libecki: Year of summer to a crag near you. the Dragon slide show This fundraising event is designed to bring your climbing community together. Join the party with DJ Underground Skinny Skis, Jackson, WY Chuck as he spins some heavy beats while Kurt Smith shares his 20 plus years of climbing experience in his one-hour slideshow. Come out and join the Access Fund, enter the gear raffle, test the latest and greatest gear on the market, •$1,010 Mike Libecki: Year of enter the pull-up and dyno contests, or bring your favorite slides of you and your buddies for the “locals slideshow.” the Dragon slide show Alta Sports, Alta, UT Check below to find venues and dates or log onto www.potrerochico.com for more updated information. •$1,000 The Reach Out Climb University Recreation at Calendar JMU, Harrisonburg, VA M AY •$880 60th Anniversary 6/16 Boone, NC - Kickin Access 2001 slide show with 5/5 Atlanta, GA - 6th Annual Rocktown Trail Days, Dinner: Topher Donahoe Kurt Smith, Footsloggers, www.seclimbers.org/kickinac- slide show-Chicago The Challenge Rock Climbing School, Kathryn and Jerry cess.html, 704-262-5111 Club, Dodgen 404-237-4021 Chicago, IL 6/26 Alexandria, VA - Kickin Access 2001 slide show 5/5 Lexington, KY - Red River Gorge Derby Festival, with Kurt Smith, SportRock Climbing Center, Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition, Julia Fain, 606-335- •$800 5th Annual www.seclimbers.org/kickinaccess.html, 703-212-7625 0067 Adirondack Mountaineering 6/3 New Paltz, NY - Kickin Access 2001 slide show 5/9 Roswell, GA - Kurt Smith slide show , Call of the Festival-The Mountaineer, with Kurt Smith, Rock and Snow, Inc, 914-255-1311 Keene Valley, NY Wild, 770 992-5400 5/12 Houston, TX - 6th annual Outdoor Summit, Sun J ULY •$667 American Bouldering & Ski Sports EXPO, 281-537-0928 Series- Championship comp - 7/12-15 Lander, WY - 8th Annual International 5/12 Terrebonne, OR - 9th Annual Smith Rock Spring Climb Time of Cincinnati, Climbers Festival, Leslie Van Orman, 307 332-2971 Thing, Smith Rock Group, Catherine Rhode, 541-330-5138 Cincinnati, OH 7/12 Lander, WY - Wild Iris Trail Project, 5/12 Fayetteville, WV - Kickin Access 2001 slide International Climbers Festival, Leslie Van Orman, 307 show with Kurt Smith, Blue Ridge Outdoors, •$560 Crankin in the New 332-4541 Year – Rocknasium, Davis, CA www.seclimbers.org/kickinaccess.html, 304-574-2425 7/14 Plymouth, NH - Kickin Access 2001 slide show 5/17 Bloomington, IL - Access Fund Boudering Blow •$410.50 Lost and Found with Kurt Smith, The Rock Barn- Rhinoceros Mountain Out, Upper Limits, Jennifer Hawbaker, 800-964-7814 Auction - Rock’n & Jam’n, Guides, Jim Shimberg, 603-536-2717 5/19 Tulsa, OK - 6th Annual Outdoor Summit, Sun & Thornton, CO 7/18 Pittsburgh, PA - Kickin Access 2001 slide show Ski Sports EXPO, 918-254-0673 with Kurt Smith, Mountain Dreams International, Inc, 5/26 Lexington, KY - Kickin Access 2001 slide show •$385 6th Annual Fridgid 412-621-4878 Flash Alaska Rock Gym, with Kurt Smith, Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition, 7/26 Dayton, OH - Kickin Access 2001 slide show Anchorage, AK Miquels 606-663-1975, with Kurt Smith, Urban Krag Climbing Center, 937-224- www.seclimbers.org/kickinaccess.html •$381 Mike Libecki: Year of 5724 the Dragon slide show - Black J UNE 7/28 Pontiac, MI - Kickin Access 2001 slide show Diamond Equipment, with Kurt Smith, Planet Rock Gym, 248-334-3904 6/2 Lookout Mountain, TN - Sunset Trail Day, Salt Lake City, UT Southeastern Climbers Coalition, Brad McLeod AUGUST •$350 Boulder Blast VII – [email protected], 404-329-1519 Rockreation, Salt Lake City, UT 6/2 Asheville, NC - Kickin Access 2001 slide show 8/2 Boulder, CO - Kickin Access Kurt Smith slide with Kurt Smith, CLIMBMAX, INC, show tour, Boulder Rock Club, Kurt Smith, 303-447-2804 •$340 Michigan Ice Climbing www.seclimbers.org/kickinaccess.html, 828-252-999 8/7 Colorado Springs, CO - Kickin Access 2001 slide Festival - Down Wind Sports, 6/2 Atlanta, GA - Peachtree Pump indoor comp; JCCA show with Kurt Smith, Sport Climbing Center, Marquette, MI regional final, Atlanta Rocks!, Chris Reed, 404-351-3009 719-260-1050

vertical times may 2001 13 Area Reports Continued from p. 5...

Gorge was a big success. 30 volunteers, organized by Mike Brown, assisted the work. They installed two kiosks. While the kiosk crew was busy, the trail crew did some habitat restoration work by eliminating an old unused section of trail. They also did some reengineering work on the main trail and the lower September 8, 2001 section of the Middle Earth trail. The San Diego Climbers’ Coalition extends its thanks to the Access Fund and Adventure 16 for their monetary dona- tions to the project. Also kudos to all of the volunteers, especially Mike Brown who coordinated the project. Mick Ryan

On September 8, 2001, nationwide, the Access Fund will lead trail SOUTHEAST restoration projects and clean-ups at S ERVICE AND T RAIL climbing areas in the most wide P ROJECTS, NC ranging volunteer effort ever by the The Carolina Climbers’ Coalition has been working with Brad McLeod, chair climbing community. Adopt-a-Crag of the Southeastern Climbers’ Day brings climbers together to Coalition, on a collaborative service preserve our climbing resources and project to benefit the climbing com- care for climbing areas. It inspires munity and the climbing environment. activism, advocacy, volunteerism, Also, the CCC and SECC will be hosting and stewardship across the country. a National Trails Day Project on Saturday June 2, 2001 at Whitesides For more info email: [email protected] Mountain, located near Highlands, NC. Phone: (303) 545-6772 The plan is to do some much needed trail work in the area. Nantahala Web: www.accessfund.org National Forest personnel will be pre- sent to provide guidance and tools. Work starts at 9 a.m. For more infor- mation, email Aram Attarian at [email protected] or Brad TITLE SPONSOR Mcleod [email protected].

14 vertical times may 2001 TO ALL WHO’ VE HELPED US ACHIEVE OUR MISSION

Climbing comps- American Bouldering Series- entire series so far President Becky Hall, CO–The Nature Conservancy $3,712.50! –Climb Time of Cincinnati, Club Sport, Aminas City Rock, Vertical eXcape, Nathan Holmes, Miami University, Julie Versteeg; Vertical Vice President Jeff Bowman, MA–Climber Activist Endeavors, Jason Noble, CU Outdoor Program, Trace Bundy, Rockreation, Nate Smith, Rocknasium, Squirrel and Mark , Alaska Rock Gym, Siri Moss, James Madison University, Guy de Brun Secretary -Mike Libecki slide show tour- Elephant’s Perch, Black Eric Hobday, UT–Wichita Mountain Hosting or giving a slide show Climbers Coalition Diamond, Barrel Mountaineering, Trailhead Sports, Mountain Chalet, Neptune Mountaineering, Cross Country Connection; Kurt Smith, Elaina Arenz, Alta Sports, Shawn Chartrand, Skinny Skis, Jeff Treasurer Rob Raker, CO–Filmmaker Crabtree, Armando Menocal, Marmot-Berkeley, Western Mountaineering- Santa Clara

Board of Directors Festivals, demos and membership promos- Down Wind Sports, the Michigan Ice Conrad Anker, CA– Festival & Bill Thompson, The Mountaineer, Mountainfest & Vinny McClelland, She-Climbs, Carolyn Chris Archer, CO–Attorney Mia Axon, CO–CO Outward Bound School McHale, Keri Conte, Chicago Mountaineering Club, Alex Andrews, Ben Kweton Leslie Brown, WA–Electric Lightwave For just being awesome- Boulder Rock Club, Matt O’Conner, Mike Moelter, Rock’n & Jam’n, Andy Carson, WY–Trad Climber Ken Cline, CO–Computer Consultant Deb Grass, Rockquest, OH, Armando Menocal Andy Fitz, WA–Asst. Attorney General 2001 CORPORATE PARTNERS Charlotte Fox, CO–High Altitude Climber The Access Fund sends great thanks to industry members and like-minded Larry Gustafson, TX–Attorney businesses for partnering with the Access Fund. Pat Jodice, OR–Oregon Cooperative Fish & Wildlife Unit PLEASE SUPPORT THEM Goose Kearse, NC–Misty Mt. Threadworks Michael Kennedy, CO–Former Owner and Diamond Partners $20,000 •Corplan • USA •Black Diamond, Bibler/Scarpa Editor of Climbing •Crazy Creek Products •Yates Gear •Climbing Mark Kroese, WA–Technology Consultant •Entre Prises USA •Galyan’s Contributing Partners $500+ Bob Margulis, WA–Climber Activist •Falcon Publishing •REI •All Terrain Reese Martin, CO–Sempra Energy •Gregory Mtn. Products •Rock & Ice •Alpine Ascents International •Kelty Chris McNamara, CA–SuperTopo, LLC •American Ref-fuel Platinum Plus Partners $15,000+ • Systems Dave Rosenstein, NY–Campmoor •Bearing Images •Hothouse Design & Advertising •Metolius Shannon Stuart Smith, KY–Attorney •Cloudveil Mountain Works •Omega Pacific Mountaineering •Maxim Ropes Jeff Widen, CO–CO Environmental Coalition •Excalibur DMM •New Belgium Brewing CO. •Free West Rock Guides Honorary Board Member & Founder Platinum Partners $10,000+ •Weathered Stone •Gravity Kills Company Armando Menocal, WY–Human Rights & •The North Face •Greischar Dungan Architects Major Partners 1,000+ •Jackson Hole Mountain Guides Environmental Advocate Gold Plus Partners $7,500+ •Altrec.com •Jagged Edge Mountain Gear •Eagle Creek •American Bouldering Series •Joshua Tree Rock Climbing School • •Arc’teryx •Mountain Madness Executive Director •Polartec/Malden Mills •Cascade Designs •Mountain Tools Sam Davidson . . . . . [email protected] •PrAna •Cordless •MountainWoman.com •W.L. Gore Development Director •Hi-Tec Sports •Nicros Susy Levin ...... [email protected] Gold Partners $5,000+ •Jansport •Philadelphia Rock Gym •Campmor •Marmot • Inc. Access & Acquisitions Director • • •Ropegun Shawn Tierney . . . [email protected] Five.Ten Misty Mountain Threadworks • •Mountain Gear •Seattle Manufacturing Corporation Conservation Director •Mammut •Mountain Hardwear •Sickle Climbing Kath Pyke ...... [email protected] •Nalgene •Outside •Soma Entertainment • •Stone Age Climbing Publications Director • America Outdoor Research John Heisel ...... [email protected] •Trango USA & •Phoenix Bouldering Comp •Ushba Mountain Workds Stonewear Designs •Phoenix Rock Gym •Verve Associate Development Director Silver Partners 2,500+ •PMI •XDOGS.COM Heather Clark. . . [email protected] •Advanced Base Camp •PowerBar •ZuluSports.com • •PuR- Membership Director BlueWater Media Partners • Kerry Cowan . . . . . [email protected] •Boreal Royal Robbins •Apex • •Boulder Rock Club Sport Chalet •Blue Office Assistants • •Clif Bar Sterling Rope •Elevation John E. Johnson, Aimee Baker • •Climb High Sun & Ski Sports •Freeskier

vertical times may 2001 15 The Access Fund, PO Box 17010 Non-Profit Org. Boulder, CO 80308 US Postage PAID Permit No. 904 HE IG TORY T B S : Address Service Requested Denver , CO “Tuolumne of the midwest” Preserved ...... p.1

SPRAY: “An Obed Perspective ...... pp. 2, 12

POLICY UPDATE Denali Rescue-Cost Study, Use Fees . .p. 3

AREA REPORTS: Regional access news across the nation ...... pp. 5-6,14

MEET THE ACCESS FUND: New AF ED Sam Davidson and interview with Kurt Smith ...... pp. 7-8

RESOURCE UPDATE: Grant recipients and Regional Coordinator Update...... p. 9 AMERICAN BOULDERING IN JEOPARDY! LETTERS Members speak out ...... p. 10-11 BY SAM DAVIDSON, ACCESS FUND EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Recently, I returned from a three-day conference on climbing management. The confer- HOT PROJECTS AND EVENTS: ence was hosted by the Bureau of Land Management and attracted over 50 land managers Sizzling Summer events near you . . .p.13 from around the country. The Access Fund and the American Mountain Guides Association ADOPT-A-CRAG DAY were the only two climbing organizations invited to the event...... p. 14 I gave the closing presentation at the conference. At the end, I asked all the land CORPORATE PARTNERS/ THANK YOUS managers, “What is the one thing you would most like the Access Fund to help you ...... p. 15 with?” The response was unanimous. The Access Fund is a national, nonprofit These resource professionals said their biggest management Heather Clark at Red Rocks. Photo: John Heisel dedicated to keeping climbing areas open & challenge right now is bouldering. They are worried about conserving the climbing environment. Since crash pads damaging plants. They are concerned about chalk its incorporation in 1990, the Access Fund marks near historic rock art and the “over-use” impacts we are has provided more than $1 million for climb- starting to see at popular bouldering sites. ing conservation and education across the Climbers have practiced bouldering for over 50 years, yet US. We’ve paid for land purchases, climbers’ only in the past decade has bouldering become an end in campgrounds, educational brochures, toilets, signs, and scientific research on climbers’ itself. With no ropes, hardware, or harnesses, bouldering is impact on birds of prey and cliff-dwelling perhaps the freest expression of climbing. In this respect, plants. For more information: bouldering is the most accessible form of climbing, and its popularity is increasing rapidly. Last year, the Access Fund PHONE: 888-863-6237 asked many of you what types of climbing you participated in and most of you responded WEB: www.accessfund.org that you boulder with some regularity. MAIL: P.O. Box 17010, With our growing interest in bouldering, the most popular areas are starting to show Boulder, CO 80308 some wear-and-tear. Many land managers do not know how to respond to these effects. As a result, they restrict access to these areas. Vertical Times is the membership newslet- The Access Fund has launched a new campaign to develop solutions to bouldering- ter of the Access Fund and is published six related problems, and to preserve access to bouldering areas. As part of this campaign we times a year in January, March, May, July, will initiate a nationwide outreach effort to land managers. It will help them understand September and November. Authorizing orga- bouldering and how they can manage this climbing experience without resorting to clo- nization: the Access Fund, 2475 Broadway, sures. At the same time, we will redouble our climber education efforts to promote mini- Boulder, CO 80304. This issue date: May 1, mum-impact practices and a solid stewardship ethic. 2001. Volume #40. Price: $30/yr. What can you do to protect the natural resources at your bouldering areas and preserve Executive Director: Sam Davidson; climbing access? For starters, you can start or join an Adopt-a-Crag Day project at your Editor: John Heisel. local bouldering area. Call the Access Fund at (303) 545-6772, or visit our web site at www.accessfund.org, for more ideas on how to get involved! Together we can make Exceeds 50 percent recycled content a difference!.

16 vertical times may 2001